HAPPY SPORT COLLECTION Ba l H a rb our S hop s : 3 0 5 . 8 6 8 . 8 6 2 6
With its sublime setting, breathtaking ocean views, and world-class collection of contemporary art, you’ll know you’ve arrived at Oceana Bal Harbour. Welcome home. Bal Harbour’s most prestigious oceanfront condo. Interior design by Piero Lissoni Original sculptures by Jeff Koons Occupancy immediately Limited selection available
HOME IS WHERE THE ART IS
10201 Collins Avenue Bal Harbour, FL 33154 oceanabalharbour.com 786 414 2939
Pluto & Prosperina – Jeff Koons Nothing herein shall constitute an offer to sell real estate in jurisdictions where prior qualification is required unless we have met such qualifications. The sketches, renderings, graphic materials, specifications, terms, conditions and statements contained in this brochure are proposed only, and the Developer reserves the right to modify, revise or withdraw any or all of same in its sole discretion and without prior notice. The photographs contained in this brochure have been taken off-site and are merely intended as illustrations of the activities and concepts depicted therein. For New York Residents: All prices are estimates. This advertisement is not an offering. This advertisement is a solicitation of interest in the advertised property. No offering of the advertised units can be made and no deposits can be accepted, or reservations, binding or non-binding, can be made until an offering plan is filed with the New York State Department of Law. This advertisement is made pursuant to Cooperative Policy Statement No. 1, issued by the New York State Department of Law. (Oceana Bal Harbour Condominium CPS No. -140057, Sponsor: Consultatio Bal Harbour, LLC, Sponsor’s Address: 10201 Collins Avenue, Bal Harbour, Florida 33154). Copyright 2015 Consultatio Bar Harbour, LLC – All Rights Reserved. EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY
PHOTO BY RUVEN AFANADOR
Model Mary Crimmins wearing Salvatore Ferragamo and a Balenciaga earring.
MATTER OF STYLE What to see, where to go and what to buy this Fall.
THREE’S A CHARM Chanel launches three new unisex fragrances in homage to Coco’s favorite seaside getaways.
TO THE MAX At Bal Harbour Shops for just over a year, PINKO has already garnered a devoted fanbase.
HIGH MINDED Bulgari, Chopard, David Yurman and Van Cleef & Arpels bring haute joaillerie to new heights.
LARGER THAN LIFE This season, designers spun armor for the office and beyond with exaggerated silhouettes
for the woman who can shoulder anything. THE LONG VIEW With jackets, shirt dresses and separates hewn in timeless materials, designers from New York to Paris are
considering the magic of clothes that are easy to wear. FANTASY LAND Enter the fashionably cosmic world of illustrator Cara Deming Butler.
FROM THE CORNER OF LE ZOO The trendsetter Danié Gómez Ortigoza, known as @journeyofabraid, takes on fashion as the art
of being for her debut Bal Harbour column. 34 BAL HARBOUR
PHOTO BY KEVIN SINCLAIR
Model Valentine Bouquet wearing a Gucci dress and Tiffany & Co. earrings.
ACQUIRED TASTE As director of membership for the Cultivist, Laura de Gunzburg has an appetite for the finer things in life.
EYES WIDE OPEN Independent curator and creative director Roya Sachs has made a profession out of discovering extraordinary
objects. Her Fall to-do lists are equally arresting. DESIGNING WOMEN Four of Miami’s most in-demand personal stylists discuss the trends, accessories and wardrobe additions to
snap up for a stand-out Fall. PLAY IT BY EAR Fashion darlings are piling on the piercings and ultra-luxe jewelry for one-of-a-kind looks.
IT’S A MUST Bal Harbour has just the accessory you need to finish off your look in the season’s hottest trends.
BACK TO THE LAND Discovery Land’s Hudson Valley resort community is the new it-place for rustic relaxation.
THE SCIENCE OF SLEEP Siobhan Morrissey checks in at the sleep wellness program at Canyon Ranch.
MAKE IT RAIN Mark Benjamin dishes on his early inspirations, go-to brands and long-term love for the Lone Star State.
SHARING SNOBBERY Bag Snob’s Tina Craig is translating her digital presence into her next move: a global influencer agency.
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B A L H A R B OUR S HOP S 970 0 COL L IN S AV E 3 0 5 728 4 4 0 0
The Spanish island of Mallorca is a biker’s paradise.
THE COLLECTOR David Casavant is the fashion archivist and celebrity stylist dressing the next generation of tastemakers. A BAG FOR ALL SEASONS Danielle Corona’s Hunting Season is beloved by grandmothers and supermodels alike. THE BIG EASY From never-ending silk pajamas to oversized outerwear, this season’s largest trend offers endless options for layering in and out of the house. FLOWER POWER Romantic, classic, bohemian, and luxe—there are just as many ways to wear flowers this season as there are women to wear them. SUSTAINABLY CHIC On the 40th anniversary of Versace, Donatella explains how the brand’s new Bal Harbour boutique embodies her vision for the future of fashion. GIRL POWER An all-women bike trip through Mallorca redefines what a girls’ trip can be. GO FOR BAROQUE The Fall collections are rife with unabashed patterns, embroideries and paillettes. REWRITING HISTORY Fall’s most exciting titles reveal the untold stories of culture as we know it.
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122 124 148 162 176 180 186 198
Welcome Note FALL HAS ITS MORE ROMANTIC ASSOCIATIONS, but as I’ve gotten older, I’ve begun to equate it less with a refreshing turn of season and more with the stress and mayhem of getting three teenagers back to school. There is, however, one remaining unadulterated joy: the unveiling of Fall fashion. I love discussing and debating the strongest trends, which are ultimately settled on the street or people watching at Bal Harbour Shops. We are so excited for our covers. Famed photographer Ruven Afanador shot this season’s sumptuous, oversized layers that define the new feminist wardrobe—whether lounging at home or venturing into uncharted (professional) territory—in and around Philip Johnson’s iconic Glass House in New Canaan, Connecticut. And photographer Andrew Yee captured the botanical prints that set Fall’s most beautiful dresses and suits in a perennial spring. These looks are eminently wearable and also easy to pair with the season’s best boots. As always, we also look beyond fashion and round out the issue with stories that focus on well-being since feeling good is essential to wearing anything with confidence. Siobhan Morrissey shares one piece of the wellness puzzle after she was spirited away to Canyon Ranch, where she developed the tools for consistently sound sleep—and the life-changing magic of feeling and looking well rested. And writer Sari Anne Tuschman reconsiders the girls’ trip, trading poolside lounging for an empowering tour de Mallorca by bike—a journey filled with both physical challenges and far-flung luxuries. Closer to home, Miami is experiencing its own vibrant rejuvenation. With Balmain opening its first location at Bal Harbour Shops and Versace unveiling its new concept store this Fall, the level of talent has never been higher—which is why we’ve called on Miami fashion journalist Danié Gómez Ortigoza to chart the city’s style trajectory along with her own in her inaugural column for Bal Harbour. Because, no matter the trends, great style is always, above all, personal.
Model Mary Crimmins, photographed by Ruven Afanador exclusively for Bal Harbour Magazine. Styled by Romina Herrera Malatesta, Crimmins wears a Lanvin turtleneck, trousers and coat and Tom Ford pumps, available at Neiman Marcus.
Here with Aquazzura’s founder and creative director, Edgardo Osorio celebrating the brand’s second collaboration with de Gournay at Bal Harbour Shops.
M Y I N S TA I N S P I R AT I O N @RAPO4 @EYESWOON @SARAHHARRIS @PIERREYOVANOVITCH @JACQUEMUS
Publisher/Editor-in-Chief Sarah G. Harrelson Follow me on Instagram, @sarahgharrelson
Model Malaika Firth, photographed by Andrew Yee exclusively for Bal Harbour Magazine. Styled by Romina Herrera Malatesta, Firth wears a Chloé sheer dress with embroidery, silk button-up shirt, knit turtleneck, chain pendant necklace, leather bag and bracelets.
Bal Harbour Magazine Publisher/Creative Director Carlos A. Suarez Publisher/Editor-in-Chief Sarah G. Harrelson Executive Editor Sara Roffino Senior Editor Mackenzie Wagoner Associate Art Director Katie Brown Contributing Writers Jessica Michault, Siobhan Morrissey, Sari Anne Tuschman, Danié Gómez Ortigoza, Coco Romack, Cait Munro, Laura de Gunzburg, Roya Sachs Contributing Photographers Kevin Sinclair, Andrew Yee, Ruven Afanador, Jeiroh Yanga, Matthew Morrocco Digital Media Editor Jessica Idarraga Editorial and Marketing Assistant Simone Sutnick Intern Mayela Hernandez Copy Editor Robin Shear, Vered Engelhard, Anna Bonesteel, Bartolomeo Sala Pre-Press/Print Production Pete Jacaty Digital Imaging Specialist Matt Stevens Marketing & Sales Evian Kuznik Accountant Judith Cabrera Chief Executive Officer Mike Batt
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BAL HARBOUR MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY WHITEHAUS MEDIA GROUP WHITEHAUSMEDIAGROUP.COM 1680 MICHIGAN AVENUE, SUITE 1013 MIAMI BEACH, FLORIDA 33139 786.342.7656 TO SUBSCRIBE, BALHARBOURSHOPS.COM
Bal Harbour Shops 305.861 .1515
RUVEN AFANADOR has been behind the lens since he first held a camera at the age of 14. Since then, the Colombia-born photographer has shot nearly every major living artist, musician, dancer, actor, politician, and super model, bringing a contrast of masculinity and femininity into his innumerable portraits, fashion spreads, and three books of photography. For this issue, Afanador shot model Mary Crimmins wearing fall’s oversized outerwear at Philip Johnson’s Glass House.
MATTHEW MORROCCO is an artist with degrees from NYU and Columbia University. For this issue, he turned his camera on stylist and fashion collector David Casavant. “Working with David and his team was an amazing opportunity” Morrocco says of the shoot. “The setting, their attention to detail and interest in clothes and contemporary culture was thrilling to witness.” 42 BAL HARBOUR
ROMINA HERRERA MALATESTA is an Argentinianborn, New York City-based stylist with a global perspective. Her modern, minimalist aesthetic has been called on by clients including Neiman Marcus, Time and The Sunday Times among others, and can be seen in Un-Titled Project magazine, of which she is the global fashion director. Herrera Malatesta styled three fashion spreads in this issue of Bal Harbour. “In the end all these stories embodied a powerful celebration of the beauty and boldness of women today.”
PHOTO BY EDWARD BESS (AFANADOR), SELF PORTRAIT (MORROCCO), CHRISTOPHE KUTNER (HERRERA MALATESTA)
DANIÉ GÓMEZ ORTIGOZA, known to her tens of thousands of followers as @journeyofabraid, has been popularizing the inner workings of style in Miami and the world over on her Instagram while working as an activist for women’s and Latin American causes. For her first Bal Harbour column “From the Corner of Le Zoo,” Gómez Ortigoza muses on the universal experience of style evolution and the power of people watching.
New York–based writer KAREN QUARLES always enjoys digging into her subjects’ lives— and closets. For Bal Harbour, Quarles interviewed tastemakers Laura de Gunzburg and Roya Sachs about their current obsessions and fall-wardrobe must-haves. “They have such different styles, but they both have incredible taste,” says Quarles. “Roya is so fearless about color, and Laura has an amazing eye for the details—her jewelry and accessories are always spot on.” Quarles has recently written about fashion and jewelry for Artnet News and the 1stdibs blog, The Study. 44 BAL HARBOUR
DAVID YI is the founder of Very Good Light, a Gen Z men’s beauty publication. Prior to that, he launched the fashion and beauty verticals at Mashable where he was nominated for GLAAD and Webby Awards. He’s been published in WSJ, GQ and Vogue among others. Here, he writes about Tina Craig, a social media mogul who went from Instagram celebrity to launching her own global influencer agency.
PHOTO BY CELIA D. LUNA (GOMEZ), JOSEPH OXLEY (SINCLAIR), ELIZABETH BUDABIN (QUARLES), SARAH YUN (YI)
Former model KEVIN SINCLAIR came to love photography while studying graphic design at the School of Visual Arts in New York City. His innate talent for composition and eye for lighting have made him a regular collaborator for such international titles as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, Marie Claire, Glamour, L’Officiel, and Grazia among other outlets. Along with his commissioned work, Sinclair is the editor in chief of the online and print magazine Vestal, which seeks out new talent and nurtures them creatively. Sinclair splits time between New York, Milan, London and Paris. For this issue, he shot model Valentine Bouquet wearing the season’s most beautifully-embroidered clothes.
Bal Harbour Shops 305.868.2113
SARI ANNE TUSCHMAN is a writer who spends time between Santa Monica, California and Aspen, Colorado. Here, she shares a story about biking through Mallorca, Spain with a group of female friends and wrote about her “truly unforgettable” trip to Paris and Deauville with Chanel to celebrate the launch of the house’s unisex fragrances. “Getting there via the Orient Express was a once-in-a-lifetime experience,” she says of the journey. Tuschman is a frequent contributor to the Los Angeles Times, LALA and Aspen Magazine.
For COCO ROMACK’s first contribution to Bal Harbour, they scoured stylist David Casavant’s massive archive of Raf Simons and Helmut Lang garments and chatted with the stylist about his favorite pieces and his hopes for the future of fashion. To Romack’s surprise, one of Casavant’s rarest pieces is a pair of briefs. Romack lives in Brooklyn with their partner and two dachshunds, Pieta and Panko. Their writing has appeared in The New York Times, and i-D among others.
Originally from the Philippines and now living in New York City fashion photographer JEIROH YANGA shoots for publications, fashion agencies and for V Magazine, as well as Parisian fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier. For this issue, Yanga turned his lens on the rising expert of men’s fashion and RAIN magazine publisher Mark Benjamin in his home state. “He’s from Texas so the fun cowboy look was perfect for a portrait of him.”
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HEATHER CORCORAN has written about everything from São Paulo’s emerging fashion scene to a soaring skyscraper in Seoul, contributing to a wide range of titles including T: The New York Time Style Magazine, Dwell, House Beautiful, Metropolis, Architectural Record, and GQ.com. In this issue, she checks in with Donatella Versace on the company’s sustainably-designed Bal Harbour concept store and previews PINKO’s fall collection, which put her right into the back-to-school spirit—the best time of year, as every fashion follower knows.
PHOTO BY GEORGE KOELLE (ROMACK), GRANT MOWER (YANGA), ERIC GLASTHAL (CORCORAN)
BAL HARBOUR SHOPS
Bal Harbour Shops, 9700 Collins Avenue, Bal Harbour, FL 33154 / +1 (305) 894-9235 / email@example.com / www.goyard.com Model: The Alto hatbox bag, available in 4 colors.
PHOTO BY MATT IRWIN / TRUNK ARCHIVE
MATTER of STYLE
The second annual Bal Harbour Shops “ICE CREAM WE LOVE” on Saturday, January 12th and Sunday, January 13th will feature 20 of the country’s best ice cream makers, scooping their favorite flavors for the whole family to enjoy during this two-day fundraiser to benefit Holtz Children’s Hospital. Guests are invited to stroll the al fresco center, sampling the creative confections from ice cream vendors’ pop-up booths throughout the first and second level courtyards of Bal Harbour Shops and enjoy the children’s activities. For ticket information call Holtz Children’s Hospital 305-585-4483 or visit www.balharbourshops.com.
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© AUTUMN DE WILDE; © SARAH MOON
WEARABLE ART As fashion emerges with a new generation of boundary blurring artists-cum-designers who have spent more time behind ceramic wheels than sewing machines, the prolific Rodarte sisters, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, are finally getting their due from the art community. Starting November 10th, Washington D.C.’s National Museum of Women in the Arts (NMWA) is hosting its first-ever fashion exhibition with a fantastical look through the Rodarte archives, exploring the most exquisite pieces ever produced by the 13year-old label. The show also examines the expansive influences (think: California landscapes and Japanese horror films) that have made Rodarte what it is today.
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The fashion flock heading to Milan for the Spring ‘19 collections would do well to jaunt across town where photographer Sarah Moon will have not one but two concurrent exhibitions of her signature painterly photographs spanning the course of her 48-year-long fashion and fine art career. The first, “From One Season to Another” at Armani/Silos features more than 175 color and black-and-white prints in both large and small formats—including a never before seen dance series inspired by Oscar Schlemmer. The latter, “Sarah Moon, Time at Work” at Fondazioni Sozzani zeroes in on the artist’s trajectory from 1995–2008 with 90 photographs and a documentary and short film. Opening September 19.
BAL HARBOUR SHOPS FERRAGAMO.COM
Following a blockbuster showing at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the Denver Art Museum plays host to Dior’s first major retrospective in the United States. “Dior: From Paris to the World” celebrates 70 years of the couturier’s inimitable influence through more than 150 haute couture looks, along with accessories, sketches, videos and the national premiere of archival materials. Beginning with its avant-garde founding by Christian Dior, the exhibition takes a glittering, sinuous tour through each subsequent artistic director, including Yves-Saint Laurent, John Galliano, Raf Simons and today’s Maria Grazia Chiuri. Opening November 19.
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If the glittering bounty of Van Cleef & Arpels in the Bal Harbour Shops sets your heart aflutter like the company’s signature bejeweled butterfly, you may want to visit New York this fall. Starting October 25th, the jeweler’s Paris-based School for Jewelry Arts hosts a pop-up in New York with more than a dozen different classes and hands-on workshops in the art and history of jewelry taught by some of the world’s top gemologists, jewelers and scholars. Though sited in a posh mansion just off Fifth Avenue, each two-to-three-hour class is geared to the novice and priced for the populist, as are three unique jewelry exhibitions and a series of talks, which are free to the public. Through November 9. —Laura van Straaten
Paying homage to its serendipitous origins, this season Diptyque is releasing limited-edition oddities and reimagining its signature 34 fragrance (so named for its first brick and mortar address, 34 boulevard Saint Germain) as an eau de parfum. Here, the olfactory portrait of the original shop’s interior is given a swirl of tonka bean, a spiced pinch of sandalwood, and a brisk splash of pepperwood. Among the brand’s latest objects are fragranced paper and matches and a beautifully rippled glass candle holder further elevating its line of coveted scents.
© PAOLO ROVERS; COURTESY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS; COURTESY DIPTYQUE
THREE’S A CHARM
Chanel launches three new unisex fragrances in homage to Coco’s favorite seaside getaways.
CHANEL’S HEAD OF PERFUME, Olivier Polge, has quite a legacy to maintain. Not only are Chanel fragrances a massive part of the French house’s business, but Olivier’s father, Jacques Polge, held his job before him, the role a sort of family rite of passage. But Olivier is not one to shy away from challenges, as evidenced by the 2016 release of Chanel No. 5 L’Eau, his fresh and modern interpretation of the most iconic fragrance in history, Chanel No. 5. Recently, Olivier took on a new challenge, interpreting three of Coco’s most beloved seaside towns into scents: Deauville and Biarritz, France and Venice, Italy. The results of his work are three new, unisex fragrances, each named for the destination they are inspired by. “I like to say they are traveling scents,” says Olivier Polge. “I think that with smells, you can travel. These three cities are important in the history of Chanel. They are a part of our identity and were a source of inspiration for Coco Chanel.” According to Polge, the three new fragrances—Paris-Deauville, Paris-Venice and Paris-Biarritz—each bear a little bit of the City of Light within them, an homage to Coco Chanel’s permanent residence. “Deauville is very close to Paris,” he says of the resort town that was the site of the first Chanel boutique in 1913. “It is a city near the sea, but it’s also in the middle of Normandy. It’s often a
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destination for a weekend. For the Deauville vacation spots, they also help tell the story of perfume, I had in mind what the scent could Chanel as a brand. “What I like is that it’s not be for a weekend in the countryside.” The eau only about history—these places tell du toilette translates into a delightful fragrance something about us,” says Polge. “Little by that is both aromatic and woody, with notes of little, there is something of these three cities orange and touches of jasmine and patchouli. that comes back and forth in our identity.” The fact that the fragrances are unisex When it came to Biarritz—where Coco Chanel opened her first couture house in was not something Polge set out to create 1915—Polge was inspired by the surf town’s from the beginning, but rather it came as a intrinsic sporty vibe, bringing it to life via top natural progression. “Whereas flowers are notes of grapefruit and mandarin, more feminine, the notes chosen—herbs, complemented by traces of lily-of-the-valley. “I citrus, woods—are not gender oriented. think Biarritz is the freshest,” says Polge of the I like that as people, we choose,” says scent. “This is where we get our pictures of Polge. “How many masculine fragrances do women wear? How many clothes do Coco Chanel on the shore. There is men and women share? I don’t like something energetic in Biarritz.” this notion of rules.” And finally, there is Venice, a The new fragrances come in a powder-y scent that brings to bottle that is also new—a sleek, mind Coco’s beloved Italian town. elegant shape, reminiscent of a flask. “I was thinking about the Every detail was considered in its influence Venice had on Coco creation, down to the distinct “click” Chanel,” he says. “This is where sound the cap makes. The logos, she developed her taste for too, are special: The double C is Byzantine and Baroque art. The engraved on the top of the bottle, top note is fresh with orange and also found inside the cap, flower. Then it goes on to iris, Named for the harkening back to house’s dedication which has certain violet enchanting town where Coco Chanel to even the smallest of details. And undertones, and then it gets opened her first finally, the bottles are made of a warmer with amber and a bit of couture house in 1915, Paris-Biarritz thinner, lighter-than-usual glass, cedar wood.” delights with fresh making the scents easy to pack for The three fragrances don’t notes of citrus and lily-of-the valley. travels to far-off seaside destinations. just honor Coco’s beloved
COURTESY OF CHANEL
BY SARI ANNE TUSCHMAN
J AV I E R B A R D E M a n d D E V P AT E L , M A D R I D , 1 0 a m W AT C H T H E S E R I E S O N Z E G N A . C O M
TO THE MAX At Bal Harbour Shops for just over a year, PINKO has already garnered a devoted fanbase. BY HEATHER CORCORAN
WHO SAYS LESS IS MORE? Certainly not PINKO. The seasonal mood of the brand is anything but understated, with a maximal take on the Italian label’s roots, reinterpreted in rich layers of velvet, lace and silk. At the heart of the collection is a celebration of individual style, with luxe materiality setting the tone. Pops of velvet show up in relaxed menswear-inspired suiting, tuxedo trim with a twist and even embroidered kimonos meant to be casually draped over trousers. A Moulin Rouge-inspired selection combines glossy patent leather and wisps of lace, while a softer take on the trend can be found in PINKO’s signature Love bags, freshly updated with Western touches. Elsewhere, notes from the ’70s folk scene take the form of fringe, celestial prints and braided details. It’s all ready to be mixed and matched with the collection’s leather mini-skirts, slinky wrap tops and sequined dresses, the perfect pieces to be worn with a casually insouciant rock-n-roll vibe. (Need a little styling inspiration? Try channeling Rolling Stones’ muse Anita Pallenberg, dreamily lounging in exile at Villa Nellcôte.) The new season is a fitting turn for a brand that’s been offering contemporary looks for the modern shopper, an “independent, strong, and sexy woman, aware of her femininity,” since it was founded by Pietro Negra and his wife Cristina Rubini three decades ago. In keeping with the times, the brand is also introducing its first activewear collection, C-Clique. Embodying it all in PINKO’s Fall/Winter campaign is superstar strutter Stella Maxwell, one of a new wave of catwalkers who dons colorful suede boots and embellished hats in the visuals. When asked about the collection’s secret ingredient, the stunner puts it simply: “The right amount of cool.” PINKO’s Fall/Winter looks combine the Italian line’s maximalist roots and attention to exquisite detail.
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HIGH MINDED Boundless imagination defines this season’s haute joaillerie collections. Herein, we review the best from Bulgari, Van Cleef & Arpels, David Yurman and Chopard. THERE’S NO USE IN debating the eternal appeal of a classic diamond riviere or a rare gemstone solitaire. (Don’t bother. Case closed.) But among the rarefied company of high jewelry collectors there’s growing emphasis on design with a unique point of view over conventional design meant to flaunt the biggest stone on the block. Pieces from David Yurman’s Fall collection are particularly distinct, with the most remarkable ones combining the brand’s established elements with dramatic settings. Heaped high with custom-cut sapphires, rubies, emeralds and blindingly brilliant diamonds, the geometric links and twisted cable motifs from the label’s Stax collection are rock star glamorous. Achieving such an effect demands unwavering commitment from creatives, stone setters and everyone inbetween. “Creating high jewelry is really a craft of dedication,” says chief creative officer Evan Yurman. “There are no shortcuts and making each piece of jewelry requires intensive collaboration and loyalty.” Dior’s fidelity to the craft of haute couture informed the direction of their latest jewelry creations. Specifically, the importance of lace to the house’s legacy sent Dior jewelry artistic director Victoire de Castellane hunting for techniques that achieve the same delicacy with precious metal and gems. Her ethereal designs are a hybrid of tradition and modernity. Each piece is rendered with painstaking technique, and many of the contemporary silhouettes— two-finger rings, mismatched boho hoops in coordinating palettes of multicolored sapphires—just might introduce a new generation to the virtues of high jewelry. To Nicolas Bos, CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, “wonder and enchantment” are indispensable components of the brand’s allure. Taking four of Grimm’s fairy tales as creative fodder, a just-introduced Van Cleef & Arpels high jewelry collection includes a formation of dancing princesses rendered as a diamond collar, magical plumes adorned with invisibly set pastel sapphires and a spinel and ruby ring that evokes an enchanted chalice. “For me,” says Bos, “high jewelry is a piece of a dream in everyday life.” Chopard’s newly minted red-carpet collection conjures dreams of a different variety. Distant travels—real and imagined—were the
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COURTESY OF VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
BY TANYA DUKES
Inspired by Grimm’s fairy tales, the Serapi ring from Van Cleef & Arpels features blue and pink sapphires, diamonds and coral.
genesis of 71 one-of-a-kind jewels. A pair of gem-set earrings in the form of luxuriant orchid blossoms were derived from Aphrodite’s mythical garden, while an extravagant feathered necklace set with a cameo, red jasper and violet garnets recalls traditional Mongolian dress. In the case of Bulgari, it was time travel that inspired their latest high jewelry effort. The Wild Pop collection revives the over-the-top spirit of the 1980s with creative director Lucia Silvestri taking cues from the pop culture of the decade, along with the brand’s Roman roots and ties to Andy Warhol—who was fascinated by Bulgari jewelry. Necklaces decorated with diamond-studded flamingos and palm trees, an onyx brooch resembling a series of microphones and a pendant that subtly spells the brand’s name in carved coral and turquoise captures the whimsy and freedom of the age of “Miami Vice” and Michael Jackson. It’s anything but anonymous because being memorable requires a generous dose of audacity—a lesson Silvestri learned while working alongside vice chairmen Nicola and Paolo Bulgari. “You have to dare,” she says.
Larger Than Life For this season, designers across the globe spun armor for the office and beyond. The exaggerated silhouettes are for the woman who can shoulder anything. THIS FALL, BEING THE FIRST FASHION season since the Time’s Up movement, was understandably fixated on women in the workplace. There were trench coats, blazers, briefcases and an entire Alexander Wang collection of executive realness themed boss lady. And there was, even more understandably, a resurgence of the 1980s brash colorways and larger-than-life silhouettes from New York to Paris, recalling the decade women first took a swing at the glass ceiling. Which is to say, shoulder pads are back and bigger than ever. The urge to associate with an unsuccessful attempt at professional equality might seem misguided, but the Left, a Chanel coat. Right, sudden unapologetic yen to take up space with tweed embellished garments that render its wearer so large she cannot be shoulders came in at Versace invisible rang true for young designers and stalwarts yellow and glittering alike. In Manhattan everyone from Christian Siriano to florals at Marc Jacobs heeded the call, the latter sending Saint Laurent. supermodel Kaia Gerber down a spotlit runway swimming in so many roomy layers, she was only recognizable by her bare chin and poker-face lips. Across the pond, designers didn’t have to leave their comfort zones to extend their garment’s spatial reach. Donatella Versace’s vision of glamour was the result of digging through her archives, launching off the success of last season’s tribute to her brother, Gianni. This time she turned up the brazen and bold primary colors from seasons past in re-worked silhouettes of tulip-cut skirts and round, padded shoulders. Anthony Vaccarello and Karl Lagerfeld served feminism with a frisson of romance. Saint Laurent’s glittering floral dresses were elongated well past the collarbone before they tapered off into a sleeve. And Chanel delivered a collection of outerwear with Edwardian frills including a doublebreasted number with exaggeratedly-draped tweed on you know where. It’s an issue of visibility as much as it is of protection, as exemplified at Alexander McQueen, where Sarah Burton created a collection of what she thought of as “soft armor” for women, closing out the show with a crisp black blazer adorned with a bubblegum pink satin skirt, bow and gargantuan ruffled shoulders resembling butterfly wings. Consider it the metamorphosis of the power suit.
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COURTESY CHANEL, VERSACE, AND SAINT LAURENT
BY MACKENZIE WAGONER
Bal Harbour Shops Atlanta Boston Dallas Houston New York Palm Beach www.akris.ch 877 700 1922
THE LONG VIEW With jackets, shirt dresses and separates hewn in timeless materials, designers from New York to Paris were considering the life-changing magic of clothes that are easy to wear. Mackenzie Wagoner looks at Fall 2018’s heritage-worthy staples you’ll want to hold onto.
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COURTESY OF VALENTINO
THERE WERE NO SHORTAGE of look-at-me neons, sequins and balaclavas vying for attention on the Fall 2018 runways. But the most exciting statements of the season came from houses ditching flash-in-the-pan fame for wear-it-forever longevity. Shortly after Stella McCartney announced her deal with designer resale website The RealReal to promote the long-term value of past collections, the British designer continued to raise the flag of sustainability with lingerie-inspired dresses, luxe cable knit sweaters and impeccably tailored coats and blazers that hone in on what her house does best. The clothes may have been reminiscent of McCartney’s debut collections—and why shouldn’t they be? The British designer’s multigenerational front row served as visceral proof that her trademark practical chic has and will continue to earn a place in the closets of grandmothers and granddaughters alike. So, too, if Valentino’s crisp-lined dresses, pants and jackets were inventively layered for of-the-moment sensation, they can be just as easily broken down for separates with eternal relevance. The Row’s Mary-Kate and Valentino’s Fall ready-to-wear Ashley Olsen carried on turning out the kind of collection magically monastic trappings of a stylishly regret- emphasizes timeless pieces free life. Even Sarah Burton breathed an air of that can be practicality into her couture-worthy productions effortlessly layered for at Alexander McQueen via pitch-perfect tuxedos heightened that have become as much a necessity in a drama. woman’s wardrobe as they are in a man’s. Perhaps in homage to Phoebe Philo’s first absence from Céline, young designers in Paris are considering the life-changing magic of clothes that are easy to wear. Joseph Altuzarra’s 10-yearold brand reinforced its staying power (and recent investment deal with Kering) by sending beautifully cut wardrobe staples in wool pinstripes and silk florals down the runway—sure to outfit his powerhouse female friends for years to come. And for her sophomore collection for Chloé, Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s best looks reworked straightforward classics into thick-ply ribbed sweaters and seductively-cut shirt dresses that are as pragmatic as they are romantic. Not a moment too soon. Just weeks after the season’s runways came to a close, news broke that fast fashion magnate H&M had accumulated a shocking $4.3 billion in unsold, new apparel. Women with a social conscious have been designers’ raison d’etre for a few seasons, but as of the Fall 2018 season, the most stylish women will waste not and want not.
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Enter the fashionably cosmic world of illustrator Cara Deming Butler.
COURTESY OF CARA DEMING BUTLER
BY MIEKE TEN HAVE
Left: Cat Nap at Ten; Illustrator Cara Deming Butler has constructed the fictional neighborhood of Saint Delphine as a home for her eclectic and eccentric cast of characters.
“IF I COULD MOVE there tomorrow, I would,” says Cara Deming Butler, the American-born, England-based illustrator of the vivid and fanciful Saint Delphine neighborhood she has constructed and populated with her quixotic characters. The artist, who graduated from the University of Texas, Austin in 2016 and spent much of her childhood moving, longed for a sense of home in a place she couldn’t seem to find. “I didn’t know where to go when I graduated. Saint Delphine was a way for me to deal with that frustration and desire for a place to be that I thought was beautiful and that I was at home in.” In lieu of creating distinct but separate characters as most illustrators do, Deming Butler created Saint Delphine to catalogue and connect a fil rouge amongst the various personalities that sprout from her mind to her painterly hand, including her marquee star, Scheherazade Keith. “She is the character through whose eyes we see Saint Delphine,” and who can be found on her own Instagram handle, @scheherazade_keith. Equal parts
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socialite and journalist, the character (whose profile is vaguely reminiscent of Diana Vreeland with a teetering bouffant), mines the world of her neighbors, like “legendary interior designer” Cristóbal Renata who “eats blueberry Danish in the salon under his Diebenkorn” when he is sad, or Daphne Astor, a 24-year-old astronomical archaeologist whose defining moment is “climbing on top of Apollo at the Villa Borghese, screaming “I’m the real Daphne, I’m the laurel now.” Deming Butler is influenced in equal parts Slim Aarons and Maira Kalman—and her sensibility could be seen as a hybrid of the two. Entwined in all of these personalities are elements of science fiction and the space race, both of which are a fount of inspiration for the illustrator. Deming Butler’s grandfather worked for NASA for several decades, including the 1960s, a bit of history reflected in the sartorial flavor of her characters. It is her interiors, however, that are one of the most compelling elements of her work. Colorful and graphic, they channel a David Hicks-ian sense of pattern and contrast. Her story lines
chronicle the likes of upholstery dilemmas. “In homes, there are so many patterns and shapes and I always wanted to bring that into my work,” she says, noting that one of her favorite things to do is visit National Trust houses. “It’s wonderful to get lost in those. There’s something breathtaking about a beautiful interior, especially the Neoclassical period. It’s fun to imagine what happened in those rooms at that time, and who was talking about what.” Deming Butler lives in the countryside outside of London, fixing up a family home. She works on a number of projects for smaller, independent brands who have a yen for her winsome and lyrical sensibility, and recently wrapped up a collaboration with the Los Angeles-based Sugarhigh Lovestoned for their Fall line with a distinctly ’70s-groove feel. But Saint Delphine is the world she continues to mine. “I’d love to do a book on Saint Delphine and develop a larger story line. It’s the most important part of my work. When all my characters live together, I can keep revisiting them. There’s so much potential.”
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FROM THE CORNER OF LE ZOO
“When I was 13 I didn’t understand a thing about fashion. It takes a lifetime to develop personal style that communicates who you are on the inside. When you can achieve it, the narrative of your life shifts unexpectedly.” —Danié Gómez Ortigoza
THE FIRST TIME I EVER CAME to Bal Harbour Shops was the day Le Zoo opened. My favorite part of the evening? People-watching. When you are able to be where you are, and put your phone down, and simply observe what’s happening around you, magic happens. This is not your average micro-universe. Bal Harbour Shops is one of the only remaining family-owned malls in the nation. And the most glamorous. It’s been three years since that day, when I was still new to Miami, and yet, this particular place has never ceased to surprise me. If you want to make an entrance, or you are just having a good hair day, the valet is the way. Of course, the parking lot is huge, but the valet—perfectly located in between Carpaccio and Le Zoo— will shine a spotlight on you. As I write this, and sip my tea, a beautiful woman dressed fully in Gucci drops her keys at the valet. Confidence is a funny thing. It’s almost impossible to fake it. It’s not a matter of beauty, it’s not a matter of style. Those who have it shine in all their splendor as they stride through the halls of this place, those who don’t often look uncomfortable. Then there are those who simply don’t care. They walk from store to store totally unaware of the world unfolding around them. They live in their heads, and I love that. Those are the ones I like the most. Isn’t it interesting how bags can become shields? Twentysomethings hold their Chanels closely, while women my age rely on Goyard. Céline transcends generations. When did teenagers start to dress so well? Beautiful 13-yearolds in Fendi from head to toe, followed by toddlers wearing similar looks. When I was 13 I didn’t understand a thing about fashion. It takes a lifetime to develop personal style that communicates who you are on the inside. When you can achieve it, the narrative of your life shifts unexpectedly. And this is where my journey began.
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COURTESY OF WORLD RED EYE
Danié Gómez Ortigoza takes on fashion as the art of being. For her debut Bal Harbour column, the trendsetter known as @journeyofabraid reminisces about her first visit to Bal Harbour Shops and how the fashion mecca has cultivated her own personal style.
Danié Gómez Ortigoza earlier this year at Bal Harbour Shops.
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5 6. Which emerging artist are you all about right now? I recently saw Sam Moyer’s new works with glass at Art Basel. They are amazing! 7. What city are you most looking forward to visiting next? I’m planning to go to Tel Aviv this Fall on a trip we’re organizing for members of the Cultivist. I haven’t been to Israel since I was a little girl and can’t wait to go back.
1. What’s your Fall must-have? Aquazzura’s Mondaine Mules in leopard.
As the Director of Membership for the Cultivist, Laura de Gunzburg has an appetite for the finer things in life. Her favorite people, places and things for Fall are nothing short of splendid.
3. What jewelry item are you eyeing? Graff’s pear shaped diamond earrings. PHOTO BY OLIMPIA VALLI FASSI
2. What beauty product can always be found in your handbag? I use a product line called QMS, which makes the best Hydro Foam Mask. My skin is always dry, and it has helped so much.
8. Where do you always make time to go in Paris? I love to walk around the Marais. It is the best energy and a great excuse to stumble into Alaïa!
4. What gallery or museum show are you excited about this season? The Giacometti Foundation just 6 opened in Paris—it is a real gem. 5. What hotel do you love for its art and design? Château la Coste in Provence is the ultimate for art and design.
BY KAREN QUARLES LAURA DE GUNZBERG IS IN perpetual motion. Not only can the art-world mover and shaker be found gallery hopping in her Aquazzura flats and a wrist full of jingling bracelets, she frequently travels the globe as the director of membership for the Cultivist, a private arts club that affords its members VIP access to museums, fairs and art experiences around the world. At 28, with a résumé that includes Pace Gallery, the Dia Art Foundation (where she is founder and chair of the institution’s young patrons program) and the CFDA (where she is co-chair of the Fashion Trust), she’s already an industry veteran. De Gunzburg took a pause to tell us about the artists, destinations and sparkling accessories commanding her attention this Fall.
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4 9 9. What’s your ideal Fall getaway? I try and make the summer last as long as I possibly can—so in an ideal world, I would love to do a long weekend in Porto Ercole at Hotel Il Pellicano. It’s always so full in the summer, and I never book it in advance, but in the Fall you can still find good availability until October. 10. Whose Instagram are you currently obsessed with? I love tableware, so naturally I really like @talmaris.paris. 11. What’s your favorite French novel? If I have to pick just one, then “Le Tour du monde en 80 jours,” by Jules Verne.
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DESIGNING WOMEN Four of Miami’s most in-demand personal stylists discuss the trends, accessories and wardrobe additions to snap up for a stand-out Fall. BY SIMONE SUTNICK
A stalwart of Miami’s style scene, Held has dressed CEOs, supermodels, celebrities and socialites with her deeply personal and versatile approach to building a wardrobe. How would you describe your own personal style? I have always adhered to the belief that true style is mixing the old with the new, in a way that reveals one’s personality. Simply said, I like what I like. What is your go-to statement piece? I have collected vintage evening coats for decades. My faves are a ’50s opera coat made in Hong Kong from the Brooklyn Museum archives and a Valentino couture duster from the ‘60s I picked up on my last trip to Paris. What is your Fall must-have? @elysze I’m obsessed with the structure of Balmain jackets—they add a polished look to even the most casual basics. I cannot wait for their new space in Bal Harbour Shops this Fall! What looks are grabbing your attention this season? Minimal, edgy pieces from 3.1 Phillip Lim. Modern takes on tuxedo dressing from Valentina Shah. Cocktail dresses from Naeem Khan. I am also loving OffWhite—the designer Virgil Abloh has taken a street style sensibility and paired it with great craftsmanship. An Off-White crossbody bag and one of his leather biker jackets are on my hit list for this Fall, both at Saks!
This Rio de Janeiro-born stylist first pivoted into the fashion world from a career in private banking in New York City, where she began to amass her cadre of private shopping clients and build her name as a sought-after fashion writer. What accessory is on your list this season? I’m currently obsessed with the Peekaboo Fendi bag. This year they are celebrating its 10th anniversary! It is an elegant asset in any wardrobe and if you add a fluffy charm or a fun strap, this timeless piece becomes a cool, fashionable bag. What is your weekend uniform? I prioritize comfort. Since I have many events during the weekdays, on weekends I go for the sneaker and dress combo—easy plus a touch of fashion. Two places you can find dresses for all occasions are Intermix and The Webster; they really have a great selection. For sneakers I just love Prada, they have the coolest ones. Who are your style icons? @jopaesfashion Coco Chanel, Jane Birkin, Meghan Markle and Giovanna Battaglia Engelbert are women I admire. I believe style is much more than how someone looks and how they dress. Style has to do with attitude, how one treats others and themselves. In spite of beauty standards, what attracts other people is how confident one is! What is your go-to statement piece? Cat eye and tinted sunnies! They make such a strong look. I’m completely in love with the ones from the Dolce & Gabbana collection.
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PHOTO BY LIZ WOOD (PAES)
After graduating from the storied Polimoda Fashion School in Florence, Bassil sharpened her eye for striking silhouettes, palettes and textures as both a designer and stylist for some of the world’s biggest fashion houses, fashion shows and magazines from Paris to Miami—collecting international personal styling clients along the way. Who are your style icons? My one and only style icon would have to be Bianca Jagger. She always wore a deep plunging neckline and I think to show a woman’s décolleté is the sexiest of all. What’s the best way to take a look from day to night? The best way to take a look from day to night always starts at your feet. Flats or a stack heel for day and then changing into a sexy heel for night completes any look. Aquazzura is my go-to shoe brand. @serena_bassil Edgardo, the designer, is a good friend of mine from fashion school in Florence and he never disappoints. Comfort and sex appeal: always. What is your Fall must-have? Cowboy boots. I just recently wore a pair on a trip to Paris and both French women and men were stopping me left and right saying très chic. I paired them with a plaid blazer and matching shorts from 3.1 Phillip Lim’s 2018 Fall/Winter collection, which is another must have. The perfect matching set! What designer are you most excited about right now? Brock Collection is my absolute favorite new designer at the moment. They are a husband and wife duo and their brand is romantic, feminine and sexy— and it’s available at Neiman Marcus.
De Cespedes, Saks Fifth Avenue’s Club Style Consultant, has forged her reputation for personal shopping through her whimsical spin on dressing—building out closets that are both a step ahead and utterly timeless. What trends are you most interested in right now? I’m embracing unexpected print combinations. When done right it’s quite eye catching. Gucci is a brand that successfully accomplishes this effect. You can mix their striped pieces with prints, and even combine textures such as velvet and silk to create an eccentric yet cohesive look. How do you recommend transitioning a wardrobe from Summer to Fall? I’ll layer crisp Summer whites and flowing maxi dresses with pieces like silk trenches for a cool solution. I’m also a fan of a white shoe, which can take you from day to night through the seasonal transition. Currently, I’m loving my white Gucci Princetown slides. Do you have your eye on any local brands? Alexis! The Miami-based brand has distinguished itself with effortless style. They started as a niche purveyor of beachwear, but their evolution has been truly dramatic. What is your Fall must-have? I’m tracking a slight shift away from the skinny pant and towards a more modern, relaxed fit. Experiment with a leopard print over loose fitting cargo pants from a designer like Marques Almeida. This new @stylemuse_saks silhouette pairs well with a strappy sandal into Fall.
DANIELLE DE CESPEDES
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PHOTO BY TATO GOMEZ (BASSIL), LAURA MILLER (DE CESPEDES)
PLAY IT Fashion darlings are piling on the piercings and ultra-luxe jewelry for a one-of-a-kind look. BY JESSICA MEHALIC LUCAS
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Bella Thorne wears a constellation of diminutive studs and sparkling hoops on her ear. At right, a Frivole gold and diamond earring by Van Cleef & Arpels. Below, Aurelie Bidermann’s Diamond Trombone Sleeper earring.
Depending on the placement in the ear, a new piercing can take three to six months to heal. And in case you have any hangups about the actual piercing process, long gone are the days of getting pierced with a gun at the mall or a dirty tattoo parlor. Body Electric and other luxury body piercing boutiques have revolutionized the industry with clean, modern environments featuring experienced piercers, sterilized jewelry and single-use needles. Just be sure to do your research beforehand. “Go to the studio, meet them, ask for a quick tour,” suggests Thompson. “You don’t have to get something done. You can go in for a consultation.” If you’re not ready to take the piercing plunge, get inspired by the bold mismatched earrings and singular trophy styles paraded down the fall runways at Chanel, Valentino, Alexander McQueen and 3.1 Phillip Lim. You’ll also find the resurgence of the single statement earring from jewelry designers like Anissa Kermiche and Aurélie Bidermann (both available at The Webster). A little irreverence makes a major style statement.
COURTESY OF BRIAN KEITH THOMPSON
JENNIFER LAWRENCE GRACED this year’s Oscars with an array of delicate, artfully placed piercings on her left ear. Whether she’s chilling in Ibiza or hitting a fashion event, influencer Chiara Ferragni sports a series of carefully curated hoops all the way up both ears. No part of the ear seems to be off limits for Zoë Kravitz who dons an assortment of eye-catching hardware, as well as a septum ring. And they’re not the only ones piling on the piercings. Judging by the intricately decorated lobes of Beyoncé, Bella Hadid and Gwyneth Paltrow, showing off unique ear style is one of the coolest trends out there. “My philosophy about decorating the ears is: do it. Why not? You can always take it out or change the jewelry,” says L.A.’s most in-demand piercer Brian Keith Thompson, owner of the legendary Body Electric Tattoo. “With a tattoo, you’re kind of stuck with it. It’s more of a marriage. Piercing is more of a mistress.” Lawrence, Scarlett Johansson, Jessica Alba and Bella Thorne are among the A-listers who’ve sought the services of Thompson, known for his custom constellation piercings, or multitude of piercings, sporadically placed across a client’s ear. “People ask me to design their ear. It’s what I’m good at,” he explains. He’s so good at it that clients, who range from infants to grandmothers, come into his Hollywood studio requesting the random, scattered, but undeniably badass looks they see on his Instagram. It’s not just standard lobe piercings that are in the spotlight. Any part of the ear is fair game. Some of the most popular places to adorn include the upper lobe (where your fifth or sixth hole would be), rook (the protected cartilage in the top of the ear), inner and outer conch (the middle part of the ear that looks similar to a conch shell) and tragus (the hard section above the ear lobe on the edge of your face). When it comes to accessorizing these hot spots, dainty gold and diamond styles reign supreme—making total sense, since an earring should be left in a new piercing for several months before being changed. In other words: you’ve got to love it to live with it. So you’ve opted for Thompson’s signature trifecta, or three little piercings in the shape of a triangle, on your left lobe. Should the right one match? “I like doing asymmetry, but if you’re not into it, if you want to be symmetrical, then so be it,” says the former Marine, who has embarked on a series of pop-up piercing events at Neiman Marcus stores nationwide. “It just goes back to your taste and what you want to do.” He does advise sticking to three piercings per session and strictly adhering to the suggested aftercare of your piercer.
Saint Laurent Jamie sandal; 305.868.4424.
Saint Laurent silk mini dress; 305.868.4424.
Wolford tights; 305.868.4044.
Abbreviated hemlines leave plenty of room for standout accessories this Fall.
Alessandra Rich; Hourglass dress, available at Intermix; 305.993.1232.
Hublot Black Magic watch with diamonds; 305.865.1855. Roger Vivier; satin clutch; 305.868.4344.
Alexander McQueen bracelet; 305.866.2839.
Balmain boot; 305.397.8152.
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A look from Valentino’s Fall collection; 305.867.1215.
Graff yellow and white diamond earrings; 305.993.1212.
A look from Akris Fall collection; 305.866.2299.
Fall’s brightest looks and accessories are the new gold standard.
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Harry Winston cascading drop necklace; 786.206.6657. Valentino Garavani bag; 305.867.1215.
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Fendi crocodileembossed boots; 305.861.7114.
MUST-HAVES Alexander Wang Roxy mini bucket bag, available at Saks Fifth Avenue; 305.865.1100. Aquazzura; 305.330.6860. Balmain clutch; 305.397.8152. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona watch; 786.209.0611.
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Sequins in every shape and shade catch the light in three dimensions this Fall.
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Tom Ford embroidered patchwork bag, available at Neiman Marcus; 305.865.6161.
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Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince”. Ref. 5009: The little prince tells the pilot he will give him a friendly laugh from the countless stars in the night sky. The sight of this watch inspires similar sentiments, for every single detail is a joy to behold. The timepiece is not only an imposing 46 millimetres in diameter but also impresses with classic elegance that sets off the midnight blue dial to perfect advantage. Technical perfection, on
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Special back engraving (figure), Water-resistant 6 bar, Diameter 46 mm, Calfskin strap by Santoni
BACK TO THE LAND Discovery Land’s Hudson Valley resort community is the new it-place for rustic luxuriance. BY KATE BETTS When Discovery Land Company’s founder and CEO Mike Meldman invited me to check out Silo Ridge, his new private golf and equestrian club in New York’s historic Hudson Valley, I was excited to explore his unique vision for resort design—one that specifically 90 BAL HARBOUR
doesn’t call for collared shirts or shoes. Meldman’s Discovery vision appeals to families and usually includes Tom Faziodesigned golf courses where kids can play barefoot and fetch snacks between drives at comfort stations or listen to music while roaming the greens. Despite Meldman’s casual style, every design detail at Silo Ridge is carefully considered, right down to the shade of blue wash on the reclaimed wood walls of the clubhouse. As I toured 10 of the proposed 245 homes on the 800-acre property, I noticed the way expansive outdoor porches were designed with fireplaces and enough room to seat an entire family. Or how the design of each takes inspiration from the storied Hudson River Valley towns, with traditional sloped and dormer roofs, shingled exteriors, and foundations of natural stone. Meldman’s ethos revolves around family time and what he has dubbed “outdoor pursuits.” So along with tennis, paddle tennis, cross country skiing, fishing, hiking and swimming, there is a bowling alley, an activity barn and a theater. Ski resorts like Mohawk Mountain and Catamount are just a 30-minute drive. And across the street, the 100-acre Olympic-caliber Chestnut Ridge Equestrian Center offers a heated indoor riding ring,
show jumping fields, polo fields and miles of scenic wooded trails. Head designer Rebecca Buchan who directs all architecture and design for Discovery Land Properties says the club embraces what is special about the area. “We’re very good at letting the region inform our design decisions,” says Buchan. “Because the outdoor activities in this area include horseback riding, skiing and hiking, for example, all of the entryways are easy spaces where homeowners can come in and discard clothing.” Buchan calls Silo Ridge’s architectural style “modern barn” and points out that even the root cellar and the organic farm are designed, complete with bee boxes, a hydroponic greenhouse, chickens, goats, orchards, a berry patch and a tribe of friendly Flemish rabbits. The ultimate Hudson Valley club also allows guests to pick their own produce in the garden for dinners which will be designed by executive chef Jonathan Wright, known for his farm-to-fork cuisine. At the Silo Ridge clubhouse, five-course meals might include recipes like kale and artichoke salad or quinoa with roasted squash and morels all made with local produce from the property’s organic gardens—ensuring that each homeowner gets a true taste of the Hudson Valley.
COURTESY OF DISCOVERY LAND COMPANY
The Silo Ridge Field Club, a resort community in the Hudson Valley, takes inspiration from its historical and environmental surroundings. Residents have access to a golf course, equestrian club and dozens of outdoor activities.
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THE SCIENCE OF SLEEP
Canyon Ranchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleep wellness program helps visitors establish a beauty rest regime with benefits for both mind and body. BY SIOBHAN MORRISSEY 116 BAL HARBOUR
MADAME X SCANDALIZED PARISIAN society when John Singer Sargent painted her all but slipping out of her form-fitting gown. The 19th-century American beauty survived the infamy of the lascivious portrait, only to be laid low years later by the cruelest gossip an aging beauty can overhear: She had begun to look tired. Such slander may be avoidable today with myriad methods available to combat fatigue and ensure we get optimum sleep. The Canyon Ranch wellness resort, with locations in Arizona and the Berkshires, offers a variety of solutions for the sleep deprived. Its unique sleep study program has a medical department that enables guests to know within hours the scientific reasons why they feel tired all the time. In the real world, it often takes up to six months to book a test and get the results. Canyon Ranch began studying the links between sleep and well-being some two decades ago. In August, my editor asked me to check in for a sleep test at the spa in Lenox, Massachusetts. What I found is that sleep is a seductive science. Not only did the subject merit the Nobel Prize in Medicine last year, but a better night’s sleep can improve your sex life and may save your marriage. “Sleep is sexy,” says Canyon Ranch medical director Dr. Cindy Geyer, an expert in sleep deprivation. But, she adds, laughing, “The treatments for sleep are not sexy.” Dr. Geyer, who heads the medical department at the Lenox spa has a special fondness for the sleep test, having overcome her own sleep issues. Today she wards off snoring with a mandibular advancement device that slightly moves the lower jaw forward to better open the airways in the nose and throat. During my stay, Dr. Geyer oversaw my sleep study and gave a lecture titled “Secrets to Sleeping Soundly” in which she explained that sleep repairs injuries and restores energy. It’s also the time when the brain takes out the garbage, scrubbing waste from the central nervous system. Unfortunately more than a third of Americans sleep less than seven hours a night and roughly half snore. In the past 30 days, 38 percent of Americans unintentionally fell asleep at least once and five percent fell asleep at the wheel. Loss of sleep costs the U.S. economy as much as $411 billion annually in absenteeism and accidents. Equally unsettling are the hidden health costs of sleep deprivation, often brought on by sleep apnea, which happens when the body stops breathing, sometimes for minutes at a time. Potential side effects include: high blood pressure, heart attack/stroke, diabetes, anxiety and depression, attention deficit disorder, pain, cognitive decline and structural changes to the brain. Lack of sleep can also make you fat. “The sleepy brain is the hungry brain, ‘give me sugar; give me fat,’” says Dr. Param Dedhia, the director of sleep
medicine at Canyon Ranch’s Tucson spa, who is board certified in internal medicine, sleep medicine and obesity medicine. Stressing the connection between sleep deprivation and weight gain, Dr. Dedhia helped relaunch the Weight Loss Program at the spa, which provides more than the typical offerings of facials, mani-pedis and massages. There are a host of activities from astrology to zipline adventures. “It’s like a camp for big kids,” he says. At 9 PM, I checked into the medical facility located in the Bellefontaine Mansion, a gilded age stone “cottage” that resembles Petit Trianon at Versailles. Respiratory therapist Donald McDonough prepared me for the full bells-and-whistles Polysomnogram study, attaching 16 electrodes to my head and body. Then he strapped on two chest belts and a nose cannula. The various wires and tubes were in place to record my brain waves, oxygen levels in my blood, heart rate and breathing, and monitor whether I opened my eyes or suddenly jerked my legs while sleeping. I was asleep within 12 minutes, despite being tethered to the side of the bed by a machine that sent multiple electronic messages to McDonough, who monitored my sleep in the next room. McDonough woke me from a sound sleep at 1:34 AM to say I had experienced apnea while turning onto my back just as I started REM sleep, the deepest of the four sleep stages. In an effort to provide optimum airflow, McDonough hooked me up to a Continuous Positive Airway Pressure (CPAP) machine which forces air through a tube hooked up to a nose-shaped mask and requires patients to breathe through the nose. While far from providing the most restful night’s sleep, the test served as a clarion warning: Take preventative measures now to forestall future sleep issues. The first step, according to Dr. Geyer, is to meet with an ear nose and throat specialist, preferably one with a background in sleep medicine. While CPAP is considered the gold standard treatment, more immediate steps to take include wearing Breathe Right strips to open the nasal passages and a backpack or fanny pack to avoid sleeping on my back. (Commercial devices such as SlumberBUMP are also available.) A nasal rinse with saline or alkalol might also help, as would practicing yoga and breathing exercises. I can only wonder how Madame X would have coped had Canyon Ranch been around in her day. Born in New Orleans as Virginie Avegno and later married to a French banker, Madame X became a recluse after hearing the biting gossip about her tired appearance. She immediately cut short her vacation in Cannes and fled in a closed carriage to her hotel, boarded a darkened train compartment and retreated to Paris, where she hid away in mirrorless rooms, venturing out only for midnight walks.
Secrets of a Sound Sleep • Set a regime. Go to bed and rise at the same time every day. • Bright light and activity during the day; dim light and less activity at night. Put away lighted devices two hours before bedtime. • Use glasses that block blue light when using the computer or other devices. • Try f.lux software, which changes your computer display to match indoor lighting. • Wear an eye mask to block out ambient light at night. • Make your bedroom as dark as possible. • Finish eating three hours before bedtime. • Eat breakfast. • Limit liquids after dinner. • Avoid a high-fat diet, which induces daytime sleepiness and creates a greater risk of apnea. • Check with your doctor to make sure your medications do not interrupt sleep. • Lose weight, which can restrict airways. • Exercise during the day. • Meditate for relaxation. • Do yoga to improve your breathing and stretching of muscles. • Take a nap, 10–20 minutes improves alertness; 45–60 minutes provides a five-fold improvement in recall of newly-learned material; 90 minutes improves recall and performance on a new task.
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MAKE IT RAIN Steadily carving his role among the experts of men’s fashion, Mark Benjamin dishes on his early inspirations, go-to brands and long-term love for the Lone Star State.
WHEN MARK BENJAMIN was in preschool, his mom received a phone call from his teacher. “There’s something you should know about Mark,” the teacher said. “He does not like stripes. He will not wear anything with a striped pattern. He won’t touch anything with a stripe on it.” The call was an early indication of just how resolute Benjamin’s feelings about fashion were. (They’re also remarkably consistent: two decades later, he feels the same way about the pattern.) An expert in men’s fashion, Benjamin has been a driving force in the field, founding RAIN Magazine in 2016, when he was just 25 years old. Starting an independent magazine is “like being given a canvas with half-broken paint brushes and only three colors—and not the primary ones,” Benjamin says facetiously, “but maybe like burnt sienna, canary yellow and forest green. As you get better with each issue, and more and more people want to be part of that vision, then all of a sudden then you get all the colors.” Fast forward two years and the biannual publication seems to be working with a full palette. Now at work on RAIN’s fifth issue, which hits newsstands this Fall, Benjamin sat down with Bal Harbor to discuss the state of the men’s fashion and some of his favorite wardrobe picks for the season. Taylor Dafoe: How has menswear changed in the last five years? Mark Benjamin: The democratization of fashion and luxury has by far been the biggest change in the industry. This movement has solidified the demand-driven mechanism of fashion, taking the place of the top-down approach that dominated much of the last century. Normcore, streetwear and sportswear
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are all examples of this. People are demanding high quality “normal” clothing—jeans, t-shirts, everyday-wear as status symbols. You can make a million dollars sitting behind a computer in your underwear, so the way you dress is less important than what you dress in. TD: What are your go-to brands right now? MB: My favorite brand right now is Raf Simons—specifically the Raf Simons CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC line. It’s modern with an American, almost Texan influence that I can relate to, being a born-and-raised Texan myself. There’s also what John Galliano just did for Maison Margiela, the Artisanal men’s collection, which is an entirely bespoke sort of couture for men that was probably the biggest moment in recent memory for men’s fashion and the true collector/appreciator. Demna’s Balenciaga is also making a huge impact with logo mania and deconstructing fashion and how we value it. What’s wrong is right; a car floor mat becomes a skirt and it’s genius. Right now there are so many ways to wardrobe. You really have to shop around, and that’s what makes it fun. I like Valentino and Gucci for sportswear. The patterns Alessandro [Michele] and the team come up for Gucci knitwear are beautiful and pay homage to classic designs from the house. Alessandro has been there so long he knows the brand backwards and forwards so it’s always exciting to see how he reinterprets it. And, everyone looks good in a Tom Ford suit—it’s Hollywood. I love Fendi accessories for the perfect touch of whimsy and Brioni for laceups and loafers. TD: You’ve referenced Texas a couple of times now. You grew up in Houston. How has the state influenced your style? MB: There is something beautifully foreign and alien about Texas. And then there is the way of life. Individualism, an adventurous spirit,
the rugged lifestyle and—most of all—a no bullshit attitude. It’s all Texas. The Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo is one of my favorite things I’ve ever experienced. When you see a pair of polished alligator cowboy boots with stirrups that have never seen a speck of dirt, that’s when you really get the taste of Texas. TD: Who are the non-fashion artists who have been the most influential on your work? MB: Houston is the land of highways and strip malls. The Menil Collection and The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston (MFAH) have been hugely influential. The first real moment I had with art was at the MFAH, when I saw a giant silkscreened self-portrait of Andy Warhol. It was haunting and beautiful and honest. There’s also the photographer David Armstrong and director of Paris, Texas, Wim Wenders, both of whom can’t be cited enough. But probably the most influential person that I keep going back to is the musician and artist, SSION (shun). There is something about his style and approach—a seriously-not-serious vibe that eludes categorization. He is always challenging the listener and viewer to think and see things differently. TD: What’s your favorite photo series? MB: My favorite photoshoot of all time is probably American Cowboy photographed by Hedi Slimane for Hero Magazine, Summer/Fall 2013. It’s a mix of documentary and fashion, depicting real American cowboys and their idiosyncratic lifestyles. TD: What about photo shoots that you’ve been a part of—which is your favorite? MB: It’s the one that doesn’t end up in disaster, right? One of my favorites was an editorial special we did with the Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2017 collection at the home of good friends, interior designer
COURTESY AMAN RESORTS
BY TAYLOR DAFOE PORTRAIT BY JEIROH YANGA
“I like Valentino and Gucci for sportswear. The patterns Alessandro Michele and the team come up with for Gucci knitwear are beautiful and pay homage to classic designs from the house.” —Mark Benjamin
Mark Benjamin in a full look by Dsquared2 and his own cowboy hat.
Frank de Biasi and designer Gene Meyer in New York. The home is legendary! The model was this cool guy, Serge Rigvava, photographed by Alex Lee and styled by Koen T. Hendriks. It was a fun and relaxed story with personality—Rei Kawakubo’s clothes and Frank’s interior design are two very particular aesthetics that when paired together created a sublime and compelling moment. TD: Who are the up-and-coming menswear designers to keep an eye on? MB: There are so many incredible rising talents. Charles Jeffrey Loverboy in London, Ludovic de Saint Sernin in Paris, Feng Chen Wang in Shanghai, Eckhaus Latta in New York and Los Angeles, Palomo Spain in Posadas and Blindness from Seoul. Whatever young designer Diet Prada is bashing on Instagram is probably a good gauge of what’s hot. TD: Favorite sneaker? MB: Right now, it seems like there’s a competition over who can create the ugliest sneaker. I think Stella McCartney takes the cake. My favorite boot, however, is the CK205W39 Western Harness Boot in calf leather, with a metal plate at the tip of the toe box. They’re sexy and perfect for any occasion—you can ride a horse or rob a bank in them. TD: Favorite men’s watch? MB: I don’t wear watches but I appreciate them dearly. I love the craft. My best friend just bought a Rolex GMT-Master II Batman, and it is handsome as hell. TD: What are collection are you most looking forward to this Fall? MB: I’m excited to see Hedi Slimane’s new collection in Paris for Céline in late September. Wherever he goes, he moves the needle for menswear.
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Bag Snobâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tina Craig is translating her digital presence into her next move: a full-fledged global influencer agency. BY DAVID YI
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PHOTO BY TANE GENT
“I tell my influencers that not everything has to be a certain fee for you to get out of bed. Building relationships is the only way to make it.” —Tina Craig AS FAR AS SOCIAL MEDIA GOES, influence gets you everywhere. Just ask Tina Craig, better known by her social media handle, Bag Snob, who, thanks to her 400,000 Instagram followers, has jetsetted around the world, her (many) rare crocodile Birkin bags in tow. In her 13 years of blogging she’s been invited to see Valentino’s exclusive archives, collaborated with the likes of Oscar de la Renta to Chanel and had a handbag collaboration with DKNY. If there was a historical record, she would certainly be noted as a 21st-century digital pioneer, who was not only one of Instagram’s first fashion superstars, but also paved the way for the current state of influencer marketing as one of the first to venture into the previously untapped realm of digitally capitalizing on social currency. Now, she’s taking her years of experience and translating her expertise into a full global talent agency of her own, where others are actively following in her stylish footsteps. “People call me their fashion mother, auntie or fairy godmother all the time anyways because I’m always giving advice,” she says. “An agency was a natural step for me to give back to the next generation of social stars.” Called Estate Five—a reference to the groupings of digital thought-leaders including bloggers, journalists and other nonmainstream media voices—the firm is a partnership with Dallas-based publicist Suzanne Droese and former attorney Lynsey Eaton and now counts more than 20 influencers on their roster. Since launching in February, the agency has signed such outlets as Diet Prada, the notoriously snarky handle that was recently named Time’s “Most Influential,” as well as “micro-influencer” talents with fewer than 1 million followers. Whether or not they’re fashion, beauty or lifestyle accounts, each has a specific audience—the result of a methodical interview
process that the handpicked influencers must undergo. Craig demands that each has a longterm business goal in mind and is completely original. “Some may want to launch a brand, get on television or just keep doing what they’re doing. Whatever it is, we sit down with each of them and make sure they get there,” she says. “We want them to have their futures in mind. If someone says they want to be exactly like Chiara Ferragni, we won’t sign them.” While the influencers’ content and tone are diverse, “they all have a strong point of view and are authentic,” says Craig. Authenticity in the Age of Instagram may seem counterintuitive, but for Craig, it’s essential. She refers to Diet Prada’s unabashed snark when it comes to shaming brands who are caught copying. Now a household name within the fashion community, Diet Prada is as celebrated as it is feared. “I was obsessing over them all last summer when only people in the industry knew them,” she recalls. “I loved their tone. I was like, wow, this reminds me of myself 13 years ago when there were no holds barred.” As Diet Prada’s fame continues to rise, other ascents are becoming stratospheric. Some, like the beauty influencer Huda Kattan have grown from Instagram stars to moguls, charging up to $18,000 per post while launching their own cosmetics brands. Kylie Jenner, the youngest of the Kardashian and Jenner broods, recently fronted Forbes magazine, successfully parlaying her social media influence into a $900 million business with Kylie Cosmetics. So aspirational is this career field, the business of influencers is now taught at college campuses around the world. So what is the future of the industry? According to Jennifer Chiang, CEO of MuseFind, an influencer marketing platform that matches brands with influencers, it is rapidly evolving. “It’s like the dotcom bubble
and the path of natural growth,” she says. “It used to be that brands would look at follower count alone but now it’s about engagement.” That is, likes and comments, which Chiang says have become the new currency, with anywhere between 2 to 4 percent of engagement considered high. Chiang predicts that in 2019, the microinfluencer business will continue to become even more important, as brands start paying more attention to accounts who influence purchasing behavior, which, she says, will only propel more individuals to become full-time influencers. While business is important, what’s most essential to Craig is building relationships. And to her, that sometimes means taking on opportunities that are unpaid. “Being an influencer myself, I understand what that means,” she says. “My old managers wouldn’t understand why it was important, but I tell my influencers that not everything has to be a certain fee for you to get out of bed. Building relationships is the only way to make it.” It’s these sorts of tips from an insider that only someone with Craig’s experience can offer. It’s also what sets Estate Five apart from other influencer agencies. Craig herself is managed by the agency and is still “walking the walk,” so to speak, of what she preaches to her talents, which allows her to advise her influencers on practical matters, like assessing if a rate is fair or not, and provides them with a roadmap to follow. “It’s been inspiring to watch her start as a determined blogger when the space was so undefined, then grow into a total rockstar that is so beloved in the industry,” Droese says. “People ask me all the time, ‘you know Tina Craig?’ They’re in awe of her. We call her our ‘Fairy Blogmother.’ She can make your dreams come true.” BAL HARBOUR 121
PHOTO BY SLOAN LAURITS
THE COLLECTOR David Casavant is the fashion archivist and celebrity stylist dressing the next generation of tastemakers. BY COCO ROMACK
DAVID CASAVANT IS WIDELY KNOWN for his extensive archive of designs by Raf Simons and Helmut Lang—now exceeding 1,000 garments—that flood his two-bedroom apartment overlooking the Statue of Liberty. But the 28-year-old stylist and collector is more concerned with curating an overall vibe, a confluence of street and chic fervently sought after by designers and A-list celebrities alike (Kanye West and Rihanna are known fans). “I like a little bit of attitude,” he says while thumbing through a rack bearing some unexpected new additions—a slew of ’90s Gap knitwear. “I like it to feel a little snarky or a little angry, to look like it has a bit of emotion in it,” he says laughing. The behemoth he’s amassed is as much a reflection of himself as it is a paean to the genius of Simons and Lang.
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Growing up in rural Tennessee, a youthful internet gave Casavant access to the far-off halls of fashion, and online is where he began collecting at 14 years old, competing in eBay auctions for bygone seasons’ men’s ready-to-wear and purchasing Raf Simons and Helmut Lang pieces long before their demand peaked some years later. The collection he built then filled a niche when he later moved to New York to work as a stylist assistant under Carine Roitfeld, founder of CR Fashion Book. “I really wanted to build my own tool kit to use to make whatever I want,” he explains. What is now known singularly as the David Casavant Archive is rented to celebrities to wear, magazines for photoshoots, and to designers for referencing, but it is also used by
PORTRAIT BY MATTHEW MORROCCO (DAVID CASAVANT); MATAO CHAMORRO
“None of the fashion houses would loan to rappers when I started styling. Now I’m sure now every designer would kill to dress Kendrick Lamar.” —David Casavant
Casavant in his own styling work. “I couldn’t be a painter without paint and paintbrushes.” One of the archive’s rarest pieces, surprisingly, is a pair of Helmut Lang briefs. Its most valuable? A Raf Simons camo bomber speckled with patches, the monetary worth of which David estimates at around $40,000. “Raf appropriated streetwear into high fashion,” he notes. “You couldn’t just take a hoodie and put a patch on it and get the same look that easily. He got the details right.” Expressing disappointment in the fashion industry that he feels is only starting to recognize the influence of youth culture, Casavant began dressing celebrities, especially rappers largely ignored by
big-name houses. “It used to be that none of them would loan to rappers when I started styling,” he says. Recently, that included Pulitzer Prize-winning artist Kendrick Lamar, whom Casavant decked out in Craig Green and Raf Simons for his Grammy medley. “I’m sure now every designer would kill to dress him.” “It’s propelled beyond this image of the skinny white girl, and that you have to be rich and posh to be part of it,” he continues. To Casavant, who’s propagated the streetwear aesthetic and crafted the image of countless tastemakers, the zeitgeist is slowly catching up. “I hope that fashion is used less as a way to control people and more as a way to liberate them.” BAL HARBOUR 123
124 BAL HARBOUR PHOTO BY ANDRES OYUELA
PHOTO BY ANDRES OYUELA
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The Big Easy From never-ending silk pajamas to oversized outerwear, this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest trend offers endless options for layering in and out of the house. For cinematic appeal, bigger is better and more is more. RUVEN AFANADOR ROMINA HERRERA MALATESTA
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STYLING BY
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beaded mini dress, earring, 305.864.4932.
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suede and wool coat, silk pajama-style shirt and pants. blue and white leather shoes, available at , 305.868.6544. Balenciaga earring, 305.864.4932. bracelet, 305.864.1801.
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plaid coat and jumpsuit, 305.864.2218. Versace burgundy leather bag with gold accents, 305.864.0044. shoes, available at , 305.868.6544. earring, 305.864.4932.
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Romantic, classic, bohemian and luxe—there are just as many ways to wear flowers this season as there are women to wear them. Here, bold bouquets and diminutive blooms give Fall’s most beautiful clothes a perennial spring.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW YEE
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Prada print dress with tweed corsetry and matching scarf, 305.864.9111. Miu Miu crystal studded bag, 305.993.2300.
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Escada motif printed silk dress, 305.867.9283. Brunello Cucinelli scarf, 305.864.4833. Etro intertwined knot brass earrings, 305.868.5971. David Yurman Cable Collectibles ring, 305.867.1772.
Oscar de la Renta silk shirtdress and wool blend scarf, 305.868.7986. Etro intertwined knot brass earrings, 305.868.5971.
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Valentino silk-wool dress, 305.867.1215. Dior gold-tone metal and black lacquer earrings, available at Saks Fifth Avenue, 305.865.1100.
Balenciaga athletic top dress and boots, 305.864.4932. Miansai earrings, available at Intermix, 305.993.1232. David Yurman Cable Collectibles ring, 305.867.1772.
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Chanel hooded silk print dress, metal and resin chain necklace and hoop earrings with glass, 305.868.0550. Dr. Martens boots. 214 BAL HARBOUR
Simone Rocha for Moncler print dress, combat boots with fur detail, clutch, crossbody bag and Moncler Grenoble floral puffer jacket, 786.477.5343. Gucci Sylvie Web earrings, 305.868.6504. 172 BAL HARBOUR
Fendi embroidered shirtdress and crocodile-embossed leather boots, 305.861.7114. Etro brass earrings, 305.868.597. Escada leather shoulder bag, 305.867.9283. David Yurman ring, 305.867.1772.
Dior pleated dress, Jâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;adior hoop earrings, and Baker Boy cap, available at Saks Fifth Avenue, 305.865.1100. Versace Barocco belt, 305.864.0044.
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Gucci silk tunic and skirt with boudoir print, drop pendant earring and engraved bangles, 305.868.6504.
Andrew Yee/ Ray Brown Bryan Sargent Minjung Kim Bryan Solarski Stylist: Romina Herrera Malatesta/ See Management Elaine Ragland Bridgette Denise Victorialee Arger Julius Poole Malaika Firth/ Marilyn Agency Linda Shalabi/ See Management Deanna Melluso/ See Management Shirley Cheng/ See Management
On the 40th anniversary of Versace, Donatella explains how the brand’s new Bal Harbour boutique embodies her vision for the future of fashion.
SINCE VERSACE WAS FOUNDED IN 1978, the iconic Italian label has always set the trend. And now, Donatella Versace is back with a mission that goes far beyond fashion: sustainability. “There are no more excuses not to be aware or to act upon the issues affecting our society,” explains the designer, who stunned the industry this year by announcing the brand’s leading-edge commitment to eco-friendly fashion. The move comes after years of “undercover” research, Versace says, and along with a company-wide audit and commitment to sustainable materials, the brand has launched a new architecture initiative, to be unveiled at their Bal Harbour concept store this fall. Created by French designer Gwenael Nicolas of Tokyo-based firm Curiosity, it’s the label’s first store designed with LEED certification in mind, and a symbol of Versace’s new commitment to disrupting the environmental impact of luxury. “Fashion is a mirror of the society we live in and it cannot turn a blind eye to social issues, especially when they have such a huge impact on everything around us,” says Versace, who also debuted the concept at the brand’s new London flagship. “I think it is our duty to leave a better future for the next generations. We must preserve the environment and guarantee a balanced ecosystem—especially considering that today we have the technology and the creativity to do so.” A case study in responsible design, the energy-efficient space (energy use is one of the main impacts of retail, Nicolas explains) is crafted largely of natural and recycled materials including FSC-certified wood and eco-friendly glass mosaic tiles. The concept isn’t just about creating a light environmental footprint, though; it’s also key to a healthier environment for the people inside the store, thanks to benefits like improved air quality. That’s not to say the space sacrifices style. Nicolas’s imaginative interior is meant to surprise and inspire, with a web of bronze strings for display pieces like museum masterpieces—a nod to the label’s engagement with the arts—as light and shadow play under a floating brass ceiling. The new store comes as part of a blockbuster anniversary year that saw the designer lauded with the Fashion Icon Award from the British Fashion Council, the CFDA International Award, and the honor of co-chairing the Met Ball, fashion’s most important night of the year. But Versace isn’t one to rest on her laurels. In fact, she’s embarking on a new chapter. “My life has been a roller coaster of emotions, and I think I have recently experienced a change inside of me,” the designer says. “In a way, I feel I have become more confident and that I have finally found my own voice.” Using that voice to advocate for a better future, the redesigned Bal Harbour shop is a perfect fit for Miami, a city that, like the brand, celebrates diversity, inclusivity, and the beauty of nature. “It’s proof that if you start with sustainability in mind, you can do whatever you did before,” Versace says, “but better.” 176 BAL HARBOUR
COURTESY OF VERSACE
BY HEATHER CORCORAN
Donatella Versace leads the close of of the Spring/Summer 2018 Versace runway show in Milanâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a tribute to her late brother Gianni, replete with his iconic chainmail dresses. BAL HARBOUR 177
COURTESY OF VERSACE
“Fashion is a mirror of the society we live in and it cannot turn a blind eye to social issues, especially when they have such a huge impact on everything around us,” —Donatella Versace
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Versaceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fall/Winter 2018 collection reimagines archival traits with layered tartan plaids, fringed chromatic prints, and cinched, gold-accented belts.
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An all-women bike trip through Mallorca redefines what a girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; trip can be.
BY SARI ANNE TUSCHMAN
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WHEN A DEAR FRIEND CALLED and asked if I wanted to go on an all-female five-day bike tour through Mallorca, Spain, I said yes instantly. I had visions of fresh fish and blue water, delicious wine and endless laughs. Never mind that I’d never done any real road biking. I’d mountain biked for years when I lived in Colorado, but I’ve lived in Los Angeles for years now, which means my biking career has been relegated almost exclusively to beach cruisers. All of that seemed secondary. What was really important were the things we would see, the fun we would have and—best of all—the calories we would burn to counteract the inevitable pastries, pastas and cocktails that are musts of a European getaway. My friend chose DuVine Cycling + Adventure Co. for our trip, rated second on the Travel + Leisure list of Top 10 Tour Operators in 2017. She had traveled with them the summer before on a group trip and loved the experience. This time we would customize our trip: four nights, four days of biking and six friends. Each day would consist of between 20 and 40 miles with epic meals and gorgeous scenery as the reward for peddling our hearts out. Determined to be in great shape and to become familiar with the intricacies of the road bike, I contacted my local bike shop, and they
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recommended one of their employees as a good ride partner-slashteacher. A couple of training rides with my patient and knowledgeable teacher, countless spin classes, and several hundreds of dollars spent on spandex later, I was ready for my Spanish adventure on wheels. I flew from LA to Barcelona on a Friday to spend the weekend with a couple of the women from the trip, giving us a few days to acclimate and recover from jetlag. On Monday morning we flew to Palma, the capital of Mallorca, one of Spain’s Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean. Surprisingly large in size and population (it is home to almost 900,000 people), it is a vast and stunning destination that is quickly becoming a biker’s hotspot thanks to varied terrain and windy, mountain roads. We arrived to our hotel, the Son Julia, to meet the rest of our group and relax by the pool before having dinner and getting a good night’s sleep in anticipation of the miles yet to be covered. The next morning we met our guides, Gonzalo and Ernesto, who gave us an overview of what the next few days will entail. When Ernesto told us our first day of riding will be about 50 kilometers, I did a quick math equation in my head and realized that meant more than 30 miles. My longest training ride had been 18 miles. Panic began to set in. Ernesto briefed us on the routes we would take each day, the level
Sa Talaiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rooftop pool.
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“We pulled into a vineyard to find a lone table set up outside of an old, imposing stone building. The table was positioned to provide epic views of the vines and the sunset, which it did as we enjoyed dish after dish prepared by a private chef.”
A view of Port de Sóller’s bay and harbor.
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of difficulty of the rides, and the lunches and dinners we would have afterward (perhaps the most important part). This inaugural day entailed getting set up on our bikes and departing from the hotel for a long ride to a winery. One guide rode with us, while the other trailed in a relief van. Our bikes were equipped with a GPS system that ticked off our kilometer progress and ensured we were headed in the right direction in case we lost sight of the rider in front of us or of the guide. (Although the guides circled back to check on us frequently, so there was never any real fear of getting lost). The almost 50-kilometer ride was broken up by a few stops in which the guides set up snacks—fresh fruit, nuts, M&Ms—and offered beverages like coconut water, and replenished our water with ice. The route took us down small roads with very little traffic. A coffee pit stop at a charming town some 10 miles shy of our destination was our final break before completing the day’s ride at a Celler Tianna Negre, where we toured the grounds and enjoyed an al fresco lunch paired with the varietals made on-site. Day one and 30-some miles in the books, I was feeling triumphant, blissfully ignoring the fact there were three more days to go. A casual dinner in a quaint town square near our hotel was followed by everyone scurrying to bed, nervous about the discomfort and sore muscles the morning might bring. Waking up on day two didn’t bring the soreness I had feared, a happy discovery as I outfitted myself in spandex before meeting our guides for a rundown on the day’s agenda. Ernesto explained that day two would be similar mileage to the previous day, but the afternoon would bring a 2,000-foot-elevation-gain climb. Three miles, straight up. We were told that anyone who didn’t want to attempt it was welcome to ride in the van, but we could decide that later. For the moment, we took off from the hotel for a long windy ride until we broke for a shot of espresso at an adorable café along the route and did our final mental prep for the much-discussed extended uphill. The guides—perhaps wisely—did not do the afternoon climb justice. It was far longer and steeper than they prepped us for. It was an unrelenting, arduous crawl for three straight miles. In retrospect, we realized that was a wise tactic. While at different paces, we all conquered it. Elated at our personal victories, we completed the day’s ride at Port de Sóller, a picturesque seaside village on the west coast of Mallorca, thick with tourists, tiny shops and epic scenery. White wine and rosé flowed over a muchdeserved lunch. Exhausted, we piled into the van to be transported back to the hotel where power naps and dips in the pool were had before we packed back into the van for what our guides promised to be a very special dinner. They were right. We pulled into a vineyard to find a lone table set up outside of an old, imposing stone building. The table was positioned to provide epic views of the vines and the sunset, which
it did as we enjoyed dish after dish prepared by a private chef DuVine and our above-and-beyond guides commissioned to make a magical meal for us, leaving an opinionated group of alpha females speechless. The next day promised a similar elevation gain, but more gradual and slightly less mileage overall. Still feeling the high of our accomplishments of the day before, we were ready for whatever may come. And least we thought we were. The van transported us to our starting point and as it wound its way along a narrow mountain road, you could almost feel the trepidation growing within the van. The guides assured us there weren’t too many cars on the road and the vehicles that did traverse the mountain pass would be respectful of bikers, but we felt skeptical. Were we experienced enough bikers for this? The van went silent as we collectively worried about the challenge before us. Once again, our guides pleasantly surprised us. The long, gradual climb took us at a perfect incline over several miles of gorgeous scenery. Day three seemed to invigorate all of us: We stayed close together, summiting the mountain pass without any real issue. The guides were right—the cars were few and far between and they were respectful of bikers. We made the long descent to Port d’Andratx, a fishing village on the southwestern tip of Mallorca popular with the Italian elite. A sun-soaked lunch of Spanish specialties—pane con tomate, croquettes, fresh fish, salads and calamari—rewarded us for another successful day completed. Knowing our trip was almost over, the guides outdid themselves on night three. Pulling a few favors, they got us a reservation at the beyond-words-spectacular Cap Rocat, a former military fortress-turned-hotel located in Palma’s most secluded bay. It’s the second time on this trip that the entire group was rendered speechless. We ate grilled fish and meat dishes at The Sea Club restaurant, each outdoor table offering an epic view of the water. Luck had it that it was the summer solstice, and we were spending the longest day of the year here. Our adventure concluded with a 35-kilometer (a little more than 20 miles) fun ride to the hotel where we spent our final night in Mallorca. There were no real hills on day four, so it was all laughs and smiles as we made the journey from the hotel that had been our home for the last several days to check into a new one. As we completed the final few miles of the trip, I couldn’t believe I once thought 20 miles on a bike sounded like a lot. I realized I’d fallen in love with road biking and began to plot how I could continue to ride once back in LA. Our bags had been transferred to our new hotel where we were forced to bid our fearless guides goodbye, a sad task after having experienced so much together. Talk turned to doing it all again next year—same guides, new destination. Seeing Mallorca from the seat of a bike proved to be a truly unforgettable way to experience a beautiful place, and we all agreed we couldn’t wait to do it again. Duvine.com
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BAROQUE! PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN SINCLAIR STYLING BY ROMINA HERRERA MALATESTA 186 BAL HARBOUR
silk dress, embellished leather harness, over-the-knee boots and Iris pendant earrings, 305.866.2839. Cloud clutch, 305.864.3656.
3.1 Phillip Lim crepe and chainmail skirt and top, 305.720.2501. Balenciaga calfskin bag and Heroes Batman earring, 305.864.4932. 188 BAL HARBOUR
sweater with tassel trim detail, printed blouse, vinyl skinny jeans, tassel earrings and Pillow Talk print bag, 305.864.0044.
Niki Armature chain bag, 305.868.4424. dress with zipper detail, 305.864.2218. metallic tights, 305.868.4044.
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dress with bead detailing, 305.868.6504. boots, 305.866.2839. oversized sunglasses, 305.864.8221.
Valentino printed wide-leg jumpsuit and sneakers, 305.867.1215. Balenciaga earring, 305.864.4932.
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oversized zip-up sweater, fringe midi skirt, striped tie-neck top, tights, plaid booties, calfskin bag and earrings, 305.864.4932.
reversible coat, knit scarf, printed sweater and pants, 305.866.2299.
boots, 305.864.0044. cuff bracelet, 305.868.0550. 194 BAL HARBOUR
embellished sunglasses, 305.864.8221. metallic turtleneck dress, available at , 305.993.1232.
leather and shearling coat, sequin sweatshirt and leopard-print sequin pants, available at 305.865.6161. earring, 305.864.4932.
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puffer cape, knit sweater, plaid skirt, leather bag and plaid boots, 305.861.7114.
Kevin Sinclair Marco Giannavola Simon Schwarz and Rob Ceballos/ No-Name Productions Romina Herrera Malatesta/ See Management Wayne Jones
Valentine Bouquet/ Supreme Management Charles McNair/ See Management
Mark Edio/ See Management Xavier Marshall
101 ART DESTINATIONS In “101 Art Destinations in the U.S.,” author Owen Phillips zooms in on must-see destinations for art aficionados from Donald Judd’s monastic Chinati Foundation in Marfa to Andrew Wyeth’s charmingly painted home studios in Pennsylvania. Better yet, this wanderlust-inducing travel guide works double duty as a standalone photography monograph. (Rizzoli)
REWRITING HISTORY Whether taking a glamorous romp through the minds of the world’s greatest fashion designers or illuminating the real star behind Andy Warhol’s Factory, fall’s most exciting titles reveal the untold stories of culture as we know it.
ALAÏA Azzedine Alaïa never submitted to the rigid norms of the fashion world, instead pursuing a distinctive vision of intricate, form-fitting couture on his own schedule. Art publishing giant Rizzoli is reprinting “Alaïa,” the only major monograph of the designer’s work, and reintroducing fashion devotees to the world and work of one of the industry’s true iconoclasts. (Rizzoli)
BY JESSICA IDARRAGA
BALENCIAGA IN BLACK
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Perhaps no designer has explored the possibilities of the color black as fully as Cristóbal Balenciaga. “Balenciaga in Black” collects 50 quintessential pieces from the Galliera Collection and the Balenciaga archives to show the creativity and vision of one of the most mythical names in haute couture. (Rizzoli)
With a vision that Andy Warhol often confused for his own, artist and art director Richard Bernstein was instrumental in spreading the glamour of the Factory as it established its status as the high temple of celebrity worship. “Richard Bernstein Starmaker: Andy Warhol’s Cover Artist” is at once a celebration of the legendary figures that graced the cover of Interview magazine (think: Madonna, Grace Jones, Mick and Bianca Jagger) and a glimpse into the mind of the man who produced them. (Rizzoli)
NEVER FORGET Memory champion Nelson Dellis shares a few pro tips on cultivating an infallible memory.
WOMEN OF SINGULAR BEAUTY Fashion photographer Cathleen Naundorf gained a once-in-alifetime opportunity: to enter the iconic Chanel archives. “Women of Singular Beauty” is the product of her pilgrimage to the fashion mecca and features spellbinding images of the house’s finest couture set against a Parisian backdrop. (Rizzoli)
You say you were born with an average memory. How did you decide to become a national memory champion? My memory is something I trained on my own starting about 10 years ago, after my grandmother passed away from Alzheimer’s disease. Seeing her memory deteriorate was heartbreaking. I wanted to see what I could do now so that the same thing wouldn’t happen to me. What is the most helpful tip for someone interested in expanding their memory? Try to imagine the thing you want to memorize as a bizarre image in your head. If you’re trying to memorize a grocery list— milk, for example, picture a cow spraying milk all over the place through her utters. We remember pictures better than words. What memory comes down to is all the different strategies to help you store, organize and remember all the different kinds of information that come your way. That’s what my book “Remember It!” is all about—helping people build a vast tool set of strategies to memorize all the day-to-day practical things. You are an avid mountain climber and have even started Climb for Memory, a nonprofit that raises awareness and funds for Alzheimer’s disease research through mountain climbs all around the world. What is the reasoning behind linking these two aspects of your life? At first memory and climbing seem like two very disparate things, but they actually have a lot in common. Mountaineering involves a lot of focus and mental gymnastics so that you keep moving in situations where your body is screaming for air and exhausted. If I can train my mind to be focused under the most intimidating circumstances (at 26,000 feet on a mountain or in a high-stakes memory competition), then I feel like I am giving my mind the best workout it can get. Also, I just want people to pay attention to Alzheimer’s. What better way to get attention for something than taking it to the top of the world? Nelson Dellis will be at Books & Books Bal Harbour on October 4 at 6:30 PM to discuss techniques for improving memory.
All titles available at Books & Books Bal Harbour.
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BAL HARBOUR SHOPS APPOINTMENTS (305) 864 3978 WWW.REDMARKETMIAMI.COM 9700 COLLINS AVENUE BAL HARBOUR, FLORIDA 33154 3RD LEVEL OF BAL HARBOUR SHOPS