®
MAGAZINE
SPRING/SUMMER 2020
9700 Collins Avenue, Shop 250, Bal Harbour Shops, P. 305-397-8231
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. Ref. 5033: Virtually no other form of sport bonds us so closely with nature and technology as sailing. Gliding over the waves on a sailboat, you experience the elements full on. You need to read the wind correctly to make the right manoeuvres. For Portuguese seafarers like Ferdinand Magellan and Vasco da Gama, sailing ships were the key to the discovery of hitherto unknown sea routes and whole new worlds. For the explorers and discoverers of our era, sailing is simply the most stylish way to travel on water. The fact that individualists like these are equally uncompromising when it comes to their choice of wristwatch goes without saying. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar in 18-carat 5N gold case has a stunning, iconic design that combines elegance with a high level of functionality. R E G I S T E R TO E X T E N D YO U R I N T E R N AT I O N A L L I M IT E D WA R R A N T Y F R O M 2 TO 8 Y E A R S R E G I S T E R O N I WC .CO M/M Y I WC
And because this watch captures the ethos of the Portuguese mariners of old, it succeeds in creating something extraordinary: namely, a connection between the explorers and discoverers of today with kindred spirits of a bygone age. IWC . ENGINEERING DRE AMS . SINCE 1868 .
BA L H A R B O U R S H O P S IWC .CO M
For more information please call +1 305 909 6935 or contact info@iwc.com
IWC PORTUGIESER. ENGINEERED FOR NAVIGATORS.
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contents PHOTO BY PABLO COSTANZO; HAIR BY CESAR FERRETTE; MAKEUP BY NANDA QUERO.
SPRING/SUMMER 2020
Model wears an Oscar de la Renta gown and Graff emerald and diamond Abstract earrings.
SOCIAL CALENDAR The Season of Style.
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KNITSPIRATION Angela Missoni continues to weave new chapters of her family’s iconic fashion legacy.
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#MOONGATESBHS Bal Harbour Shops continues its mission to surprise and delight visitors via a moving commission.
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STYLISH STAYS Whether relaxing in St. Barths or sipping a nightcap in Miami Beach, two recently renovated luxury hotels make
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MATTER OF STYLE What to see, where to go and what to buy this Spring.
FRESH CUTS Step into Spring—whether you’re ready to walk on the wild side or craving subtle luxuries.
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WELLNESS EXPRESS In need of reprieve from everyday stressors? Here’s where to jet off to next to recharge your mind, body and spirit. 79 for perfect fashion pairings.
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PHOTO BY ALEX MERRELL
contents
Ponte Ciolo in Gagliano del Capo. Read more about Puglia, Italy on page 172.
BOOKSMART Ilona Oppenheim is approaching the art of bookmaking with an unconventional and wholly collaborative spirit.
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GO WITH THE FLOW Slow down: How the MELT Method and other healing modalities are offering a gentle approach to movement.
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DESIGNER IN BLOOM Designer Tanya Taylor gets to the truth of her inspiration.
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NEVERENDING STORIES Children’s books are flying off the shelves at Books & Books Bal Harbour. Mitchell Kaplan investigates this trend. 96 SUBSTANCE WITH STYLE Jason Rembert gets personal about the women who have inspired him and his favorite Miami hotspots.
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MOVER & SHAKER David Martin, the developer behind Renzo Piano’s first residential tower in the Western Hemisphere, fills us in.
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MAN ABOUT TOWN Designer Matthew Chevallard’s capsule collection just landed at The Webster in Bal Harbour Shops.
SIGN OF THE TIMES The zodiac is once again part of the zeitgeist, with a new era of astrologers becoming stars in their own right.
TWO FOR THE SHOW How Oscar de la Renta’s designers are embracing the past, reinventing the present and nurturing a whole
new generation of swans along the way.
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bal harbour shops
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PHOTO BY GESI SCHILLING PHOTO BY PABLO COSTANZO; HAIR BY CESAR FERRETTE; MAKEUP BY NANDA QUERO.
contents
Model wears a Prada top and Givenchy double-breasted cape-back blazer vest.
THE CHEF BEHIND THE PERFECT PLATE With Chef Antonio Mermolia at the helm, Le Sirenuse Miami dishes up elevated
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Italian classics as only this famed Positano import can. MEET THE EYE Inside the mind and aesthetic wonderland of tastemaker Athena Calderone, whose latest book examines the
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creative process behind the personal spaces of fellow arbiters of style. STANDING TALL Miami’s current crop of women of influence possess an impressive mix of style and substance.
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A PLACE IN THE SUN Take an elegant escape in Spring’s most unexpected assortment of daytime ensembles—from languid
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LUCK OF THE DRAW The story of rising star illustrator Jenny Kroik is as enjoyable as her evocative works.
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draped looks to short and sweet hemlines; leisurely tailoring to look-at-me sleeves. THE INSIDER’S GUIDE TO PUGLIA Get the downlow on la dolce vita in the enchanting southern region favored by locals and
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jet-setters alike. ART & SOUL A curation of Spring’s most expressive pieces, brought to life against the backdrop of Miami’s monumental new Rubell Museum.
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There is so much happening at Bal Harbour Shops! Who could miss the star-studded Super Bowl party? Or Moongates, landscape designer Lily Kwong’s site-specific installation in the center courtyard? With so much to see, do and shop, we hope you have time to visit the expanded third floor of superb stores, including Books & Books, Le Labo, and later this year, Makoto. And if the beginning of the year is any indication, Spring 2020 is about exploration and new beginnings—on our home turf and around the globe. Our Spring issue’s fashion shoots took us on location to two of our favorite, but dramatically different Miami destinations, showing the breadth and excitement of our growing city. On a windy day late in December, the young and talented photographer Pablo Costanzo captured some of the best looks this Spring at Four Seasons at The Surf Club. The sprawling and manicured property inspired all of us, and of course its glorious stretch of beach is where we captured our cover model Alina Kozyrka in a playful Chanel number. For our second shoot, we headed to the monumental Rubell Museum, which my dear friends Mera and Don Rubell, recently opened in Allapattah. (Do yourself a favor and sign up for a membership!) Read more about their new space and world-class collection in our Fashionable Universe section. Beyond Miami, we also caught up with my talented friend Athena Calderone on the occasion of the release of her second book, “Live Beautiful.” The Brooklyn-based culinary and design whiz (who I plan to convince to come to Bal Harbour for a book signing) talks to writer Julia Baumgardner about the inspiration behind @eyeswoon. Meanwhile, Mosha Lundström Halbert, our executive editor for this issue, takes us to Puglia, while writer Nick Remsen rounds up the best new wellness retreats across the world—in case we need a breather and a fresh start after the last decade. In an exclusive interview, Remsen also profiles Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, the designers behind Oscar de la Renta, who pay homage to the legendary brand’s history while pushing it into the future with innovative frisson. Indeed, it’s an exciting moment to take a look at the illustrious label, who celebrated 15 years at Bal Harbour Shops this year. Speaking of important dates, be sure to follow @balharbourshops for behind-the-scenes looks at all of our fashion shoots and to stay in the loop on our curated events schedule, from author chats to designer panels. Spring 2020 looks to be a clean slate full of positivity and possibility—and we are as full of gratitude as ever. See you at the Shops!
Publisher/Editor-in-Chief Sarah G. Harrelson Follow me on Instagram, @sarahgharrelson 44 BAL HARBOUR
At Bal Harbour Shops and Oscar de la Renta’s inaugural Hot Pink luncheon for the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. From left: Christy Martin, Kristin Lazenby, Jayne Malfitano, Nicole Sayfie Porcelli, Kinga Lampert and Sarah Harrelson. ®
MAGAZINE
SPRING/SUMMER 2020
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MAGAZINE
SPRING/SUMMER 2020
From left: Model Alina Kozyrka, photographed by Pablo Costanzo and styled by Mariela Ortega, exclusively for Bal Harbour magazine. Kozyrka wears a Chanel multicolor tweed jacket, skirt, shoes and jewelry and a Balmain top. Hair by Cesar Ferrette. Makeup by Nanda Quero. Exclusive cover illustration by Jenny Kroik titled Anja at Bal Harbour, with Ghost Orchid.
BAL HARBOUR MAGAZINE Publisher/Editor-in-Chief Sarah G. Harrelson Publisher/Creative Director Carlos A. Suarez Executive Editor Mosha Lundström Halbert Managing Editor Jessica Idarraga Associate Art Director Katie Brown Design Director Adam Turnbull, Time Studio Marketing and Events Chiara DiGiallorenzo Editorial Assistant Keyla Exclusa Contributing Writers Cait Munro, Julie Baumgardner Emily Ramshaw, Nick Remsen, Elaina Patton, Monica Uszerowicz Accountant Judith Cabrera Copy Editor Monica Uszerowicz Pre-Press/Print Production Pete Jacaty Digital Imaging Specialist Matt Stevens Chief Executive Officer Mike Batt 1680 MICHIGAN AVENUE, SUITE 1013 MIAMI BEACH, FLORIDA 33139 786.342.7656
PHOTO BY SETH BROWARNIK/ WORLDREDEYE.COM
WELCOME TO OUR FIRST ISSUE OF THE DECADE
Bal Harbour Shops 305.861 .1515
is a New York City-based illustrator. With her work, she attempts to capture a fleeting moment and highlight the beauty in each person. Kroik has contributed illustrations for a wide variety of clients, including covers for The New Yorker. “When asked to make a painting inspired by the beautiful Bal Harbour Shops, I thought of the book I am currently reading, ‘The Orchid Thief’ by Susan Orlean,” she says. “In the book, she describes the magical world of Floridian plants. I cast my friend and artist Anja Riebensahm, who I often use as a model in my paintings, as a sophisticated shopper in a Chanel couture outfit, going on a shopping spree with her pet alligator, who needed a Chanel bag too, of course!”
Pablo Costanzo is a Venezuelan fashion, editorial and commercial photographer living in Miami. After just three years in the United States, in 2017, he was named one of the most influential Latin American photographers by E! Entertainment. “The editorials I shot were particularly exciting for me because they were marked by a number of firsts,” says Costanzo. “My first time collaborating with Whitehaus Media Group, first time shooting for Bal Harbour magazine, first time shooting at The Surf Club and first time experiencing the fantastic Rubell Museum, my personal favorite.”
Elaina Patton is a New York-based writer and editor currently on staff at The New Yorker, where she is also a contributor. Her pieces in this issue of Bal Harbour delve into the recent successes of two very different storytelling traditions—children’s books (page 96) and contemporary astrology (page 108). “Both forms, in their own ways, have really captured the popular imagination. And both are attracting completely new generations of audiences,” she says. “You might think that the rise of social media and digital culture would be a hindrance for people working in established—or, in the case of astrology, storied—mediums. But what we’re seeing is the development of surprisingly modern offerings, promoting self-expression, acceptance and positivity.”
ILLUSTRATION BY JENNY KROIK; SELF-PORTRAIT (CONSTANZO); PHOTO BY NICOLE THOMPSON (PATTON)
Contributors 46 BAL HARBOUR
Jenny Kroik
is a writer and editor living in Brooklyn. She is currently serving as Refinery29’s senior lifestyle editor and has previously covered fashion, art and culture for publications including Artnet News, Dazed, New York, Bullett and Cultured. “As a seven-year veteran of New York City, I enjoyed interviewing illustrator Jenny Kroik, whose portraits of stylish women in iconic NYC landmarks (The Strand! The Met! The subway!) remind me why I love living here,” she says.
Mariela Ortega is a London-trained, Miami-based stylist who was born and raised in Venezuela. Inspiration from each of those dynamic locations always finds its way into every look that she puts together. “For this issue, I had the pleasure of styling two fashion editorials,” says Ortega of her work on “A Place in the Sun” and “Art & Soul,” both shot by Pablo Costanzo. “Best of all, we got to shoot at the newly-opened Rubell Museum, checking off my biggest goal of 2020 at the very beginning of the year.”
Julie Baumgardner is a freelance arts and culture journalist who can often be found in far-off locals. As a native of Manhattan, she spent 10 years trawling her city’s streets, as well as the museums, interiors and creative spaces of over 40 countries. Baumgardner’s work has been published in Bloomberg, Cultured, Fodors, New York, The New York Times, and Wall Street Journal. For this issue, the writer profiled fellow local Athena Calderone, the lifestyle guru behind the decor and culinary pursuits on her popular @eyeswoon account. “Athena is great,” says Baumgardner. “What a kind, lovely woman. She’s like a human hug.”
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PHOTO BY NICKI HOUGHTON (MUNRO); PABLO COSTANZO (ORTEGA)
Contributors
Cait Munro
is a freelance writer, editor and marketing consultant based in Toronto, Ontario. Previously, she’s worked for Flare Magazine and the digital platforms Coveteur and Bumble, among other brands. For this issue, she put together “Fashionable Universe,” “Social Calendar,” and “Standing Tall,” among others. “It was a treat to transport myself to Miami through my writing about the city’s sun-drenched events, while in the depths of a Canadian winter,” says Ramshaw. “There’s nothing like reporting on resortwear to get you to book a ticket south.”
Jen Karetnick is a Miami-based food, wine and travel writer, as well as a poet. The author of twenty books, she contributes to national publications such as NPR’s The Salt, VinePair.com, The Nosher and Heated. For this issue, she interviewed Antonio Mermolia, the Chef de Cuisine for the Michelin-starred restaurant Le Sirenuse Miami. “Hanging out in the kitchen with Chef was a blast,” she says. “I love to watch a master and his team in action.”
Scott McIntyre is a Miami Beach-based photographer who is a regular contributor to many national and international publications, including the The New York Times. His wide-ranging work includes human interest stories, presidential campaigns, international sports events, celebrities and natural disasters. While he believes variety is the spice of life, his main focus and drive has been finding the people, places and ideas that make Florida such a unique place. “It was a pleasure photographing Chef Antonio Mermolia,” says McIntyre. “When I was admiring the styling of his dishes, it was refreshing to hear him praise his fellow chefs and cooking staff that work together to make the complex cuisine Le Sirenuse is known for.”
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PHOTO BY RENÉE RODENKIRCHEN (RAMSHAW); JEREMY LOCK (MCINTYRE)
Contributors
Emily Ramshaw
BAL HARBOUR SHOPS FERRAGAMO.COM
THE SEASON OF STYLE
NEW ROMANCE From March 20 until April 26, the gentleman from La Mancha and his loyal
steed sweep into town with Miami City Ballet’s performance of Don Quixote. This is the bright and energetic evening of dance that will carry you into spring. The dramatic costumes alone are worth the price of admission.
Miami City Ballet dancers in Don Quixote
FOUND OBJECT Lara Favaretto’s solo exhibition, “Blind Spot,”
continues at The Bass Museum of Art until April 19, including commissioned work that can only be seen at the museum. The Italian artist addresses themes like decay and consumption in her pieces and appropriately often uses found or recycled objects, including, for her work Momentary Monument, 2000 books picked up right here in Miami that would otherwise have ended up in the trash.
An installation view of Lara Favaretto’s “Blind Spot”
TUNE YOUR DISCOVER PAGE TO MILAN as Salone del Mobile gets underway from April 21-26. The annual furniture fair, now in its 59th year, hosts the industry’s very best designers and producers. This is the place where people like Philippe Starck and firms such as Yabu Pushelberg source inspiration and launch their own products. The pieces and trends you see here are sure to be the fodder of interior design mood boards long after the week is over.
FLOWER POWER
Enjoy a breath of fresh air at the Annual Japanese Spring Festival hosted by the Miami Beach Botanical Garden on March 29. Be sure to check out Ikebana floral design workshops, where experts will guide you through this ancient art of arrangement that has only recently lit the internet on fire.
SNEAKERHEAD Starting on May 6, London’s Design Museum studies the culturechallenging effect sneakers have had on the world of fashion with the new exhibition, “Sneakers Unboxed: Studio to Street.” The show promises to explore how iconic footwear, from Air Force 1s to Yeezys, have inspired subcultures and haute couture alike.
ART STAR Throughout the
spring, South Florida cultural mainstay Pérez Art Museum Miami opens a series of four landmark exhibitions bringing to life the art and experience of the African diaspora. The shows will include work by Terry Adkins, Faith Ringgold and Tschabalala Self, seen here.
LE BLANC
For Spring 2020, the displays at Valentino Bal Harbour Shops will be transformed in honor of the latest collection’s clean slate, entitled Le Blanc. The series of all-white creations, which designer Pierpaolo Piccioli has said were an ode to the timeless élan of white shirting, takes center stage this season. As we all know, this chic shade and Miami go hand in hand. Tschabalala Self’s Chopped Cheese, 2017 52 BAL HARBOUR
PHOTO © DANIEL AZOULAY; COURTESY OF THE MIAMI BEACH BOTANICAL GARDEN; COLLECTION PÉREZ ART MUSEUM MIAMI, MUSEUM PURCHASE WITH FUNDS PROVIDED BY JORGE M. PÉREZ, THE JOHN S. AND JAMES L. KNIGHT FOUNDATION, AND PAMM AMBASSADORS FOR AFRICAN AMERICAN ART; COURTESY THE BASS, PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZACHARY BALBER; COURTESY OF SALONE DEL MOBILE; PHOTO BY MICHAELA EFFORD, COURTESY OF DESIGN MUSEUM; COURTESY OF VALENTINO
Social Calendar
Bal Harbour Shops, 9700 Collins Avenue, Bal Harbour, FL 33154 / +1 (305) 894-9235 / miami@goyard.com / www.goyard.com Model: The Petit Flot bag, available in 11 colors.
MATTER
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BA HARB L N EWOU R BEYO S & ND
COURTESY OF BALMAIN
STYLE
ALL THE BBUZZ
For his latest handbag creation, Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing combined a roll call of runway signatures his #BalmainArmy of fashion recruits have come to rely on: sharp tailored shapes, monogram touches and emboldened embellishment. To wit, look closely at the Bbuzz crossbody style and you will notice cues taken from the house’s unmistakable blazers, complete with golden buttons embossed with Balmain’s own coat of arms.
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RUBELL MUSEUM
From left: Rubell Museum director Juan RoselioneValadez with Jason, Mera and Don Rubell.
©GESI SCHILLING; COURTESY DE BEERS AND ORLEBAR BROWN
Following a celebrated opening just in time for Art Basel Miami Beach in December, the new Rubell Museum has officially opened its doors in a city already bursting with cultural clout. The inaugural exhibit boasts the best of the Rubell family’s truly astounding contemporary collection, which, considering it includes everything from a selection of Cindy Sherman’s iconic film stills to works by Jeff Koons and George Condo, is worth revisiting again and again. Return trips will prove a necessity if only to cover the whopping 40-gallery building designed by Selldorf Architects from a blank canvas of six former industrial buildings. But the crown jewel is the museum’s first artist-in-residence Amoako Boafo. His breathtaking approach to black identity is a heady reminder that the collection celebrates art’s future as much as its storied past.
SHINE BRIGHT
BROWN, ORLEBAR BROWN The London-based men’s swimwear label celebrates its third James Bond collaboration.
Presented last July in Paris during Haute Couture week, De Beers’s Portraits of Nature high jewelry collection is finally arriving this spring to Bal Harbour Shops as part of its world tour. This is your chance to get a peek at the renowned house’s artistry at its most flamboyant. “It’s inspired by the way the colors of nature’s most fascinating creatures interact with light and create incredible chromatic effects,” says CEO François Delage. 56 BAL HARBOUR
This March, Orlebar Brown releases its third capsule collection dedicated to the James Bond franchise (their prior releases were so successful that the company has decided to extend the partnership). This time around, they’ve honed in on Dr. No (1962), starring Sean Connery and Ursula Andress; the film ostensibly launched the Bond universe. The main attraction is the movie’s original artwork, which has been reinterpreted and photo-printed on Orlebar Brown’s popular swim shorts. Yet there are other pieces in the mix, too; a linen summer suit is one particular standout. See the collection for yourself at Orlebar Brown’s Bal Harbour location.
BAL HARBOUR SHOPS
#EMBRACEAMBITION #EMBRACEAMBITION #EMBRACEAMBITION
WALK THE WALK
GLAM DOES GOOD
A WOMAN OF HER OWN DESIGN Meet Amina Muaddi, one of the most sizzling shoe designers in the game right now.
When an Amina Muaddi stiletto extends from a black car, on Kendall Jenner or Gigi Hadid, it is unmistakable: The heel’s pyramid base has become iconic, a remarkable feat for a designer just two years into her namesake collection. Her collection is currently available at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus at Bal Harbour Shops. You studied shoemaking with master artisans in Italy. What do you value most about the craft? “I loved learning everything about the process. Shoes are all about details and small proportions. If you don’t get them right, you can easily alter the look of a design, not to mention the comfort of a structure.” In your acceptance speech at the Footwear News Achievement Awards for Designer of the Year in 2019, you thanked your mother for “the gift of freedom.” How did she inspire you? “Actually, my mother physically took me out of an environment where it would have been hard, if not impossible, for me to develop into the woman I am today. She is so brave. In Jordan, the family I come from is pretty conservative and had we not left, I probably would have not been able to even have the freedom to have these dreams.” What inspired the palette of your Spring 2020 collection? “Last year, I went to Jamaica, the Bahamas, and Colombia, wonderful places with so much color, life and culture. I got influenced by all of this beauty. I like my shoes to look like candy.” Every city has its own style; how would you define the Miami sensibility? “I love Miami; I go often. It combines the exoticism of a tropical destination with the vibrance of city life. I enjoy the mix of cultures, the Latin influences and the colorful design. From the Wynwood Walls to the Bal Harbour Shops, and all the vintage furniture shops, there is a lot to get inspired by.” —Alisa Carroll
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COURTESY GUCCI
For its landmark inaugural Changemakers Impact Fund, Gucci awarded 16 community organizations with grants up to $50,000, two of which operate right here in Miami. Educate Tomorrow (which helps youth who have dealt with homelessness and foster care secure admission and graduate from college), and The Alliance for GLBTQ Youth (which advocates for gay, lesbian, bisexual, transgender and questioning young people), are both bodies that put into action the social equity and justice that Gucci aims to back. The Fund is part of Gucci’s larger goal to increase inclusion and diversity across the fashion industry and the country—and proves that the mega-company is paying way more than lip service to the cause.
www.gianvitorossi.com Bal Harbour Shops – 9700 Collins Avenue #111
What’s in a Bag
In this town more than others, handbags are a form of self-expression, social currency and collector’s item. Thus, it’s tempting to make a pilgrimage to London’s Victoria & Albert this season for “Bags: Inside Out,” sponsored by Mulberry, their timely purview of all things purse-related. With more than 300 pieces on display, the new exhibit examines their status symbolism, craft and history—from humble carryalls to red carpet mini audieres, rare designer creations and royal satchels. Consider it an education before your next Spring splurge. April 25, 2020 to January 31, 2021. The Victoria & Albert Museum in London.
EFFORTLESS ELEGANCE
THE GOLD RUSH Tiffany & Co.’s T collection has become a signature of the world’s most enviably bejeweled women, so it stands to reason that chief artistic officer Reed Krakoff’s new edition, Tiffany T1, launching this April, will become an icon too. Rendered in 18K rose gold, with yellow and white gold landing in June—and some set with diamonds—Krakoff’s hope is that these modern dazzlers will become his latest contribution to the vocabulary of classic luxury. We don’t doubt it.
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Known for resort wear that’s relaxed enough for the beach and sophisticated enough for dinner— and therefore perfect for this town—Colombian-born, Miamibased designer Silvia Tcherassi opened her pop-up at Bal Harbour Shops in February. Stop by to shop a selection of special, of-themoment collaborations, including those with jewelry line Rosantica and buzzy footwear brand Gia Couture Firenze. This is casual luxury with a hint of Latin flare as only Tcherassi can.
PHOTO BY ANTHONY LYCETT; COURTESY SILVIA TCHERASSI AND TIFFANY & CO.
Bethan Laura Wood with her collaboration with Valextra.
Bal Harbour Shops | Atlanta | Boston | Dallas | Houston | New York | Palm Beach | www.akris.com
Knitspiration
Angela Missoni continues to weave new chapters of her family’s iconic fashion legacy. Monica Uszerowicz sits down with the creative visionary at the new store. and my mother,” says Angela. “I have a deep respect [for them], but I always look forward.” Even as her designs and projects feel distinctly Missoni—consider the signature patterned bikinis from her Missoni Mare swimwear line—it’s because “I feel it in my roots, not because I look back.” It’s her parents’ support, says Angela, that gave her the confidence to go on. It also helps that she’s virtually memorized the Missoni archives and, as such, never directly references them for new seasons – only a combination of her memories and her constantly evolving inspirations. For Missoni Mare, displayed at the Bal Harbour store like delicate ornaments, Angela looked to a knit suit her mother made for her as a child. “I remember it was the summer of 2001, and I did the swimsuit and the famous campaign with Gisele [Bündchen],” she recalls dreamily. “I loved it so much, even though I think we [initially] sold 12 pieces. But I thought that bathing suit was so strong and so right.” She was correct after all: after reviving the pieces, the line became iconic. COURTESY OF MISSONI
THE NEW MISSONI STORE AT Bal Harbour Shops looks like a coastline at sunset: yellow and mauve, rose and sand, inflected with beach-house white. “There is this hint of yellow,” Angela Missoni, the brand’s creative director, explains. “In another shop, I use blues and other tones. But for Florida, it had to be light and very fresh.” I ask about the pink, which warms the room. “That’s a must,” she says. “It’s an evolution of the Missoni label color.” Evolution, for Angela, is key. When Rosita and Ottavio Missoni founded their iconic fashion house in 1953, they may not have known they were building a multigenerational legacy, a vocabulary of icons: covetable fine-gauge knits, the colorful chevron zigzag, and a soft-tothe-touch whimsy. Angela and her siblings grew up in the original workshop in Gallarate, Italy, today located in the equally pastoral city of Varese. When she became creative director in 1997, there was never any fear of her altering the formula: Indeed, the brand has an inherent sense of momentum embedded in its foundation. “I am channeling my father
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Bal Harbour Shops 305-865-8652
A look from Missoni’s Summer 2020 collection.
Today’s Missoni continues to stay relevant with frequent artistic collaborations, a hallmark Angela brought to the table when she began working with friends and figures like Juergen Teller, Pedro Almodóvar, and Jennifer Lopez (with whom she partnered in 2017 to support the Women’s Cancer Research Fund). Angela also developed Surface Conversions, a series of installations at Missoni’s New York City flagship, where Jonas Mekas showed his work shortly before his passing. She describes herself as always curious, and credits her small team with helping her ideas flourish. “My parents invented a style, which is like a language, and I allow myself to update it. When you learn something, you’re always working and learning.” She’s also mindful of the changing pace of the fashion industry, and how her own nature has helped her keep up with it. “It’s something I have in my character. I always have the strength to push myself into the next gear. If I’m still able to say something, I have to try and say it.”
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COURTESY OF MISSONI
“It’s something I have in my character. I always have the strength to push myself into the next gear. If I’m still able to say something, I have to try and say it.” -Angela Missoni
© 2020 Chloé SAS, all rights reserved.
9700 COLLINS AVE, #116 BAL HARBOUR, FL 33154
FRESH
CUTS
Step into Spring—whether you’re ready to walk on the wild side or craving subtle luxuries.
This season, a richly pigmented palette and assured approach to dressing prevails. As trends evolve and move at an increasingly clip rate, it can seem challenging to keep up or know where to begin. But rest assured: in this anything-goes era, it’s less about adhering to strict rules and more about following your own instincts. Thus, here are just some of the directions informing fashion’s course right now. Let them inspire your journey into Spring style, whatever path you choose.
Dolce & Gabbana embellished wedge sandal; 305.866.0503
BAL HARBOUR 67
MUST-HAVES Balmain choker logo necklace; 305.397.8152
Alexander McQueen The Story bag; 305.866.2839
Bottega Veneta leather clutch; 305.864.6247
BLUE PERIOD 2.0
Chanel chevron quilted flap bag; 305.868.0550
Jimmy Choo Lovella suede wraparound platform sandal; 305.864.3656
Giuseppe Zanotti Wanda bag; 305.868.0133
Pantone just named A look from Balenciaga’s Classic Blue its Fall 2019 runway; Color of the Year 305.864.4932 for 2020. Luckily, top designers were already on the same wavelength.
Balenciaga Blue Hourglass iPhone on Strap; 305.864.4932
Christian Dior DiorSociety2F sunglasses; 305.865.1100
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MUST-HAVES
Bottega Veneta BV Snap; 305.864.6247
Valentino Rope monkeyembroidered tote; 305.867.1215
Roger Vivier yellow feather mule; 305.868.4344
A look from Versace’s Spring 2020 runway; 305.864.0044 Oscar de la Renta Cluster earrings; 305.868.7986
HOT TROPIC
Go wild in a carnival of leafy prints, animal accoutrements and feathers galore. Gucci insect brooch; 305.868.6504
Dolce & Gabbana printed silk scarf; 305.866.0503
Zimmermann ankle-strap wedge pump; 305.397.8231
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MUST-HAVES Stella McCartney round woven raffia shoulder bag; 305.864.2218
Zimmermann chain-link bracelet; 305.397.8231
Valentino ostrich feather ankle-wrap stiletto sandal; 305.867.1215
SWEET TOOTH A look from Alexander McQueen’s Spring 2020 runway; 305.866.2839
Salvatore Ferragamo Boxyz woven leather satchel; 305.866.8166
Rush for the sugar in creamy gourmand shades of vanilla, crème de menthe and strawberry.
Oscar de la Renta raffia hoop earrings; 305.868.7986
Aquazzura Serpentine Sling; 305.330.6860
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Roger Vivier green leather handbag; 305.868.4344
MUST-HAVES Chanel bracelet; 305.868.0550
Balmain scarf; 305.397.8152
UP IN SMOKE Moody suiting and tuxedo dressing (what the French refer to as Les Smoking) is the season’s most soigné statement. Mix it up with rocker-worthy finishing touches, from combat boots to bold bangles.
Dolce & Gabbana leather bag; 305.866.0503
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A look from Prada’s Spring 2020 runway; 305.864.9111
Jimmy Choo metallic gold kappa leather and black suede platform sandal ; 305.864.3656
Gianvito Rossi denim flair heel platform bootie; 305.865.8330 A look from Alexander McQueen’s Spring 2020 runway; 305.866.2839
Stella McCartney black alter nappa knotted tote bag; 305.864.2218
Bal Harbour Shops continues its mission to surprise and delight visitors via a moving commission. Expect the ephemeral. Indeed, from the fashion to the flora, one never knows what might await them during a visit to Bal Harbour Shops. Of late, virtuosic landscape artist Lily Kwong created a work of natural wonders titled Moongates, which debuted during Art Basel Miami Beach 2019 and through the holiday season. Thousands of multicolored orchids enveloped a series of eight mesmerizing arches. It is hard to say what was more bountiful: the blooms or the countless photo-ops this enthralling instillation made positively irresistible to guests. As for what’s next? Why, you’ll have to wait and see.
Model Alina Kozyrka wears an Oscar de la Renta taffeta strapless gown, 305.868.7986, and a Graff Inspired by Twombly diamond necklace and spiral earrings, 305.993.1212.
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P H O T O
B Y
P A B L O
C O S T A N Z O
HAIR BY CESAR FERRETTE; MAKEUP BY NANDA QUERO
#MOONGATESBHS
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9700 Collins Avenue, Suite 216, Bal Harbour, Fl 33154 - 310.858.8058
PHOTO BY FREDRIKA STJARNE, COURTESY SHOU SUGI BAN HOUSE
WELLNESS E X PR E S S
Shou Sugi Ban House
IN NEED OF REPRIEVE FROM EVERYDAY STRESSORS? HERE’S A LIST OF WHERE TO JET OFF TO NEXT TO RECHARGE YOUR MIND, BODY AND SPIRIT. BY NICK REMSEN
THESE DAYS, HOSPITALITY ENTITIES are offering fire circle, organic herb and vegetable gardens, meditation stations and,
wellness tips across the board. Flip open an in-flight magazine from your last-minute, last-row economy seat, and there’s likely a page or two dedicated to breathing exercises and leg stretches. Hotels—at all levels— are improving their gyms with tech-integrated treadmills so that you can sync your Netflix app to help the time pass. The world is an increasingly nerve-wracking place, so the uptick in health promotion makes sense. Here, we’ve picked five upscale locations—all within easy reach of South Florida—that are oases of calm upon entering, with plenty of wellness options on hand once you’re settled in. With that in mind, we mean it when we say: sit back, relax and enjoy the ride.
of course, a state-of-the-art fitness center. Even Shou Sugi Ban House’s construction promotes a sense of care and responsibility: structured water filtration, solar energy and geothermal heating and cooling are all integrated in its design. We recommend at least a full day in the spa itself, where guests can indulge in Ashiatsu massages, chromotherapy showers (which use light sequences to reduce stress) and a chakra-balancing reiki treatment with bespoke aromatherapy. Another plus? It’s open year-round, and the Hamptons are, no doubt, far more peaceful without their summertime crowds (though, given the serenity of this place, we’re sure you’ll be able to find respite whenever you chose to go). shousugibanhouse.com
Shou Sugi Ban House. Water Mill, New York Opened in 2019, Shou Sugi Ban House, located in the Hamptons, is a three-acre slice of ultra-tranquil escapism. Founded by Amy Cherry-Abitbol, this new outpost is designed entirely with wellness and the healing arts in mind. There are: hydrotherapy pools, a movement pavilion, a ceremonial
Golden Rock Inn. Nevis, St. Kitts and Nevis This tiny, rainforest-shrouded nook, built around a centuries-old sugar mill, has long been a secret hideaway for the fashionable and the fabulous (including the photographer duo of Inez and Vinoodh Matadin). Owned by the artists Helen and Brice Marden, Golden Rock completed its headBAL HARBOUR 79
THE WORLD IS AN INCREASINGLY NERVEWRACKING PLACE, SO THE UPTICK IN HEALTH PROMOTION MAKES SENSE.
UXUA Casa Hotel & Spa. Trancoso, Brazil Brazil’s historic beach town Trancoso is a trip through barefoot-andbohemian time; some of UXUA Casa Hotel & Spa’s houses, alone, date back 500 years. They were restored by the Dutch fashion designer Wilbert Das and, this year, the property is opening a brand-new spa (from late February). Coinciding with the spa’s ribbon-cutting is a program dubbed UXUA Vida, which is led by Dr. Jullian Hamamoto. Patrons may reserve custom medical packages, or pre-book consultations to address concerns ranging from diet to energy to anxiety. Specialties include: a unique approach to sunburn maintenance and recovery (necessary when you’re in Trancoso), nutritional guidance (including foraging for native plants with healing capabilities) and, even, balanced cooking classes. Even if you elect not to participate in UXUA Vida, the hotel’s setting—a town older than the United States, and the big, boundless Atlantic Ocean to its east—is highly calming in and of itself. uxua.com
At Golden Rock Inn, take a tour of the garden with Keith, who’s worked at the site for nearly 30 years.
COURTESY OF Golden Rock Inn; UXUA Casa Hotel & Spa; EQUINOX HOTEL HUDSON YARDS
to-toe renovation in 2018, much of which included ultra-lush, borderline wild landscaping. The effort paid off, and their jungle is now in full bloom. Take a tour of the grounds with Keith—Golden Rock’s head gardener, who has worked at the site for nearly 30 years. He’ll show you fragrant cinnamon leaves, gigantic gray-green aloe vera shoots, poisonous albeit beautiful oleanders, ghost cacti, jasmine, “old man” palms and so, so much more, all while hummingbirds flit in and out of the scene and a Vervet monkey or two peers from its perch. There are no gimmicks here— and not even air conditioning. But the immersion in nature is both highly restorative and informative. It is genuinely invigorating. goldenrocknevis.com
UXUA Casa Hotel & Spa offers UXUA Vida, a program of custom medical packages.
Equinox Hotel. New York City, New York Equinox—you know, the famous, high-end, provocatively-advertised gym—opened its first hotel in New York City’s Hudson Yards in 2019. That may not sound like the most ideal place to unwind, but, entering one of its massive rooms, you find yourself in an ostensible bubble of tranquility far removed from Manhattan’s maelstrom below. (Not to mention: this hotel’s rooms are enormous by New York’s standards.) Its spa has some particularly innovative and enticing offerings, ranging from infrared saunas to cryotherapy. However, there’s one must-try: a “Wave Table.” It’s a bed, but it’s not your typical place to sleep. The Wave Table provides a “harmonic resonance therapy session,” meaning you will receive the benefit of three hours’ worth of slumber in only 30 minutes, due to low-frequency alpha waves. It may sound far-fetched, but spa-goers swear by it. equinox-hotels.com/nyc/ 80 BAL HARBOUR
The pool at the Equinox Hotel.
FLAG/MIA - Bal Harbour, Level 1
STYLISH STAYS
Calling all dapper gents: these two recently renovated luxury properties are the epitome of stylish sojourn, from a Miami Beach staycation to a St. Barths gem. BY N IC K R E M SE N
IN DECEMBER 2019, the acclaimed Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France hotel reopened on the tony destination’s Baie des Flamands. Its big return came with a restaurant named La Case, from chef Jean Imbert (who also oversees Swan in Miami), along with a slew of new rooms and suites conceived by the heralded designer Jacques Grange. (To note: Grange had previously worked with the property; these additions are an extension of his textured, quirky, inimitably tasteful approach.) It’s a complementary setting for almost anything from Loro Piana’s Spring collection; the Milan-based label, known for its ultra-high-end fabrications, blends neutral-toned discretion with a quiet sense of confidence. Clients describe the brand as “addictive.” (Something we could easily envision one saying about St. Barths, as well.)
Clockwise from top: A room with a view at Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France; a look from Loro Piana’s Spring 2020 menswear collection; a look from Saint Laurent’s Spring 2020 menswear collection; the bar at the Ritz-Carlton South Beach.
OVER JANUARY 2020, another top-tier property resumed operation after an extensive renovation: The Ritz-Carlton South Beach. The multi-year update was looked after by the designers HBA Miami and Meg Sharpe. Its classic cocktail lounge, Lapidus Bar, is worth a visit in and of itself; Art Deco-era metalwork 82 BAL HARBOUR
mixes with gilded bromeliad leaf lamps, adding a neonoir spin to the low-lit exoticism. Anthony Vaccarello’s Spring collection for Saint Laurent is a fitting fashion counterpart; shown on a beach in Malibu, the pieces are both surfer- and rockstar-inspired, and fall on just the right side of wild. Ideal, then, for Miami night owls.
Spring/Summer 2020 Bal Harbour Shops
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Booksmart Publishing innovator Ilona Oppenheim is approaching the art of bookmaking with an unconventional and wholly collaborative spirit. BY SIMONE SUTNICK PORTRAIT BY NICK GARCIA
IN THE AGE OF DIGITAL media, connecting in the physical world can be a challenge, especially for the print industry. In the face of competing with limitless, instant information online, to survive in this current climate requires progressive methods of tactile engagement. Ilona Oppenheim, a Miami-based graphic designer and founder of Tra Publishing, has built her company on the sensory experience of a beautifully made book. Oppenheim set out to inspire readers one arresting tome at a time, from poetry and architecture to compilations of Cuban art and literature. Tra Publishing was founded in 2016 with the goal of “[inspiring] social and environmental awareness through the arts,” says Oppenheim. Beyond that, she approaches her work as an art form in and of itself— each book is the product of creative exploration, not just in the content or subject, but in the binding, the feeling of the pages, the font and layout. Tra’s team of skilled graphic designers coupled with Oppenheim’s own background in branding and design fuels the company’s mission to highlight an author’s work in a compelling way. Tra has hit upon this synergy with artists such as Michele Oka Doner—her book “Intuitive Alphabet,” a series of photographs documenting various objects the artist has collected on the beaches of Miami, was the first title Tra published—and Doug Meyer, whose “Heroes: A Tribute” is a collection of portraits celebrating the creative minds who were early victims of the AIDS crisis. Oppenheim describes the process for these types of projects as a careful one, aligning with the author on how to best bring the vision to life.
This brings to mind the question of how a designdriven entity can maintain its own identity without impacting the work of the author or artist. The answer? Creating space for unorthodox collaboration. Oppenheim identifies this as one of the pillars of Tra: “We have amazing, award-winning graphic designers on our team, but we encourage our authors to be involved in the bookmaking process if they choose to do so. The books are a reflection of their art, and we welcome their input,” she says. “To be able to stay true to this goal, it is important that we carefully select our artists and authors and that we are aligned with their vision.” Tra brings more than just design expertise to the table—Oppenheim takes great pride in the quality of the books themselves: “The tactile element is present in each book and is expressed through the paper, special printing techniques, the feel of the cover and more,” she says. “Our books include elements of surprise expressed either through bold graphics, papers, color or other aspects of the design.” Special collector’s editions allow for more extensive creativity with the final product, using unexpected materials like handmade paper, or even including a one-of-akind drawing in each collector’s edition. When asked how she navigates a print-based business through the increasing focus on the screen sphere, Oppenheim emphasizes the human desire to connect: “The physicality of our books is what I feel draws people to connect with them. I am hoping people slow down when they hold [them] and appreciate the experience,” she explains. “Beyond the subject matter, the object itself elaborates on the story, and it’s something that cannot be experienced digitally.”
Top to bottom: “Locust Projects: The 20th Anniversary Retrospective,” “Heroes: A Tribute” by Doug Meyer and “Spirit of Place” by Oppenheim Architecture, all published by Tra Publishing. 90 BAL HARBOUR
GO WITH THE FLOW
Slow down: How the MELT Method and other healing modalities are offering a radically gentle approach to movement. BY NIAMH MAHER
“WE CAN RESTORE THE HEALTH AND EFFICIENCY OF OUR BR AIN AND BODY IF WE KNOW HOW.” BAL HARBOUR 93
BAL HARBOUR SHOPS 9700 COLLINS AVENUE SUITE 106 T: 305 864 2218 STELLAMcCARTNEY.COM
Self-Care 2.0 Other mindful movement evangelists to flow with:
MELISSA WOOD HEALTH Melissa Wood Tepperberg is a New York City-based health and wellness advocate that has created an online subscription platform designed to give you long lean lines and a clear, focused approach to all areas of your life. These low-impact pilates-style workouts can be done with little space or equipment, making them the perfect travel companion. melissawoodhealth.com
YINYASA WITH GABI TORRES Homegrown yogi and self-proclaimed ‘healing artist’ Gabriella Torres leads you through her ‘Yinyasa’ class at The Sacred Space in Miami every Monday & Tuesday. In this well-rounded class, Torres guides you to flow through vinyasa, power, yin and restorative styles of yoga, giving you an opportunity to release stagnant energy and tension. sacredspacemiami.com
GST BODY Encounter a “skin to soul experience” at this Los Angeles-based holistic studio where fascia is in full focus. With an extensive online library of videos to choose from, GST Body exercises offer a simple way to holistically care for your body, no matter how time-strapped (or where) you are. gstbody.com/do-gst/
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OUR MODERN LIFESTYLES can make moving with intention and avoiding injury a farreaching goal, but according to wellness entrepreneur and educator Sue Hitzmann, her hands-off bodywork technique known as the MELT Method is a self-care ritual that anyone can practice. Whether you’re into rapid-fire high-intensity interval training or yin yoga (a style of where postures are held for longer periods of time), emerging evidence suggests that the best thing you can do for your body and mind is slow down, simplify things and make a genuine effort to understand the intricacies of our greatest asset—our health. Indeed, a healthy body is one where all systems effortlessly connect, support and maintain balance. Enter the MELT Method. Hitzmann is a New York Times best-selling author (her latest book is “MELT Performance”), an international educator and the founder of the therapeutic technique MELT Method, an acronym for Myofascial Energetic Length Technique. “My mandate is to help us live a more active, healthy and painfree life,” says the New York City-based practitioner, noting that over 200,000 people have tried her unique approach to bodywork. Hitzmann is also a founding member of the Fascia Research Society, working hard to reinforce her MELT Method techniques through advanced scientific studies. “MELT applies neurofascial science and research, which continues to validate that our brain and body is plastic, malleable and that we can restore the health and efficiency of our brain and body if we know how,” she says. So what is MELT, exactly? While chiropractic care treats your skeletal system, and massage therapy focuses on your muscles, have you ever wondered what holds it all together? At the heart of the MELT Method and inside each and every one of us is a universal body-wide system of 3D structures that run from head to toe and everywhere in between. These thin web-like structures are called fascia. It is fascia that separates but connects everything at the same time, keeping the body stable, supported and protected. For example, healthy fascia is what helps your skin glow, gives your muscles continuity and provides your joints with shock absorption. “When properly stimulated, this hydration powerhouse stabilizes every cell, nerve and blood vessel in your entire body,” says Hitzmann. “When understimulated, we become tired, achy and irritable, a sure sign of stuck stress within your body.” Sound familiar? The spotlight on fascia has recently been brought to the forefront of the wellness conversation by Gwyneth Paltrow’s modern lifestyle brand Goop, where
fascial massage techniques are credited for giving you toned, longer and leaner legs. With immediate results and a burst of feel-good endorphins, it comes as no surprise that the MELT Method has a loyal following and a technique that anyone can benefit from. Indeed, Hitzmann’s training program is wide-reaching and has been translated into eight languages thus far. MELT techniques are similar to what you might find in a physiotherapist’s office, but if you learn how to move your body in ways that avoid injury and optimize your energy, you’ll steer clear of ending up in costly physio sessions altogether. “These techniques will save you time, money and most importantly, they put you in control of your health and wellness,” says Hitzmann. The method’s goal is to teach students how to move with intention to avoid injury and live a longer, happier life. Through the use of simple props like a soft roller and small resistance ball, these movements work to break up, compress, and release the fascia, lubricating the tissue and restoring a full range of pain-free movement. With over 2500 MELT instructors worldwide, finding a class or event close to home is easy, but if you’re like many of Hitzmann’s devotees, nothing beats the accessibility of an online platform that you can access from anywhere. MELT On Demand is exactly that: a subscription-based program where Hitzmann herself guides you through techniques that she claims are proven to garner lifelong benefits. For the self-care advocate who loves to indulge, lymphatic drainage massage is the goto treatment of the moment that focuses on moving fluid (and energy) beneath the skin throughout the body. Research shows that fluid from the fascia actually drains directly into the lymph, making the MELT Method the logical place to start in order to optimize your results. Hitzmann recommends you “MELT daily” and follow her five-minute facelift routine to keep your fascia soft and supple. Hitzmann says it’s these easy to follow techniques that will lead to sculpted jawlines, lifted brows and pain-free lubricated joints. While workout crazes come and go, Hitzmann stresses that “MELT is not exercise. It’s a method to restore balance, connection, interception, proprioception, and inner awareness, which are essential elements of living well as we age. If you work out, MELT is a great compliment to reduce the negative effects of exercise like joint ache, muscle stiffness and soreness, as well as imbalances that are often caused by repetitive routines.” No matter one’s age or fitness level, Hitzmann’s sound approach to movement makes a compelling and practical case for everyday well-being.
“IF YOU WORK OUT, MELT IS A GREAT COMPLIMENT TO REDUCE THE NEGATIVE EFFECTS OF EXERCISE LIKE JOINT ACHE, MUSCLE STIFFNESS, SORENESS, AS WELL AS IMBALANCES THAT ARE OFTEN CAUSED BY REPETITIVE ROUTINES.” -SUE HITZMANN
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Neverending Stories
Children’s books are flying off the shelves at Books & Books Bal Harbour. Founder Mitchell Kaplan invites us to investigate this trend. BY ELAINA PATTON
FOR THE PAST FEW YEARS, the world of children’s literature has been enlivened by the growing popularity of graphic novels, as well as a new era of socially conscious illustrated fiction and nonfiction. With hit debuts from celebrity authors and new titles of wildly popular series, children’s books have defied market slumps and helped define the book-publishing landscape. “Year after year, we’ve seen increases, especially where kids’ books are concerned,” Cristina Russell, the head buyer of children’s books for the locally-owned indie chain Books & Books, says. “Books are something 96 BAL HARBOUR
that we as a society seem to value, especially that feeling of reading to your kids at night. There are a lot of parents who still place a lot of value in that.” According to Russell, kids are gravitating toward visually-driven literature—a point that parents and teachers are increasingly taking notice of. “For a very long time there was a sense, even within schools, among educators, that graphic novels were not real books. We’re seeing that change,” Russell says. As parents become more willing to purchase these books, popular children’s series have soared to the top of bestsellers lists.
COURTESY OF SIMON & SCHUSTER CHILDREN’S PUBLISHING
An illustration by Vashti Harrison from Lupita Nyong’o’s bestseller “Sulwe”
Actor-turned-author Matthew Gray Gubler celebrates “Rumple Buttercup” at Barnes & Noble - The Grove in Los Angeles.
“In our increasingly digital world, nothing takes the place of the low-tech, soulful experience of reading to a child or watching them spend hours entranced by the pages of a book.” —Mitchell Kaplan, Books & Books
And this surge in popularity has long-term implications for children’s literacy. “We’re noticing that when kids fall in love with a series like ‘Dog Man,’ and when they are encouraged to read what they really like, even if it seems below their level momentarily, it can work as a gateway to them becoming big readers,” Russell says. “Dog Man” is a graphic-novel series by Dav Pilkey, who is also known for the illustrated hit series “Captain Underpants,” about a crime-fighting superhero who is half-cop (body) and half-police dog (head), stitched together after a villainous plot results in a fortuitous accident. The first “Dog Man” book appeared in 2016, four years after the character was written into the final installment of “Captain Underpants.” Last year, Scholastic published the seventh and eighth titles, “For Whom the Ball Rolls” and “Fetch-22.” The newest, “Grime and Punishment,” is set for September. Raina Telgemeier, another pioneer in the graphic-novels space, appeals to an often ignored market: comic books’ female readership. Telgemeier’s rise to the ranks of Y.A. royalty began in 2010 with her debut novel, “Smile,” about years of dental horrors and the insecurities she faced as a middle-schooler. Last year, she published her third graphic-novel memoir, “Guts,” in which she opens up about anxiety and the toll it took on her insides, beginning in fourth grade. In the intimate account, Telgemeier works to destigmatize mental illness and therapy for young readers. A new generation of celebrities are putting their stamp on the thriving illustrated children’s book category. Though there’s never a lack of offerings by film, music and television stars on the store shelves, like other celebrity ventures—memoirs, podcasts and Netflix
specials—the key to a successful celebrity-penned children’s book is authenticity, Russell says. In “Rumple Buttercup: A Story of Bananas, Belonging, and Being Yourself,” written and illustrated by Matthew Gray Gubler, a selfconscious green-skinned monster hides below ground, only emerging at night, disguised by a banana-peel hat. The lovingly crafted, handlettered picture book is the debut from the actor, better known for his role as Dr. Spencer Reid on the TV series Criminal Minds. It is about learning to cast off fear, embrace the “weird,” and find fulfillment through relationships with others and yourself. Following its success, Gubler has announced that a sequel is already in the works. Another celebrity making a mark with a message of selfacceptance is the Academy Award-winning actress Lupita Nyong’o. Her much praised debut, “Sulwe,” illustrated by Vashti Harrison, is a deeply personal account of a little girl who dislikes her dark skin, envying the bright complexions she sees around her, in her family and at school. It’s a heartwarming story that deals with difficult subjects like colorism, self-esteem and the insecurity that results from narrow beauty standards. Ultimately, Russell says, mindfulness and kindness have been popular themes for children’s books in the past few years. These works will continue to draw young readers with their ageless messages. “I think people really underestimate the sophistication of what’s being published in the children’s-book world. It is a very open, diverse place, and especially compared to the adult market,” she said. “With a book like ‘Sulwe,’ what she’s saying about race and colorism isn’t said in that way to adults, even.” BAL HARBOUR 97
TANYA TAYLOR FASHION DESIGNER
The signature bright colors and hand-painted prints of Tanya Taylor—the size-inclusive designer who’s dressed a range of inspiring women, from Michelle Obama to Gillian Jacobs—are the kind of springtime investment that should be made every year, and even more so this collection (available at Saks Fifth Avenue Bal Harbour), as it was inspired by Miami’s most captivating resident: Biba designer and artist Barbara Hulanicki. It’s no surprise then that Taylor makes the trip from her atelier in New York City to South Florida often. Herein, she gets to the truth of her inspiration, whether that’s jumping on a sofa with her son at Four Seasons Surfside, or getting dressed up every day, no matter what’s on her agenda. BY EMILY RAMSHAW
What are you listening to right now? “I am really into the Happy Not Perfect app for mental health. I use it as a creative outlet and a journal. My favorite podcasts are ‘How I Built This,’ ‘One Quick Thing’ and ‘Bad On Paper’—I get so many great book recommendations from hosts Grace and Becca. While I’m at work, I love listening to Monocle Radio, reggae pop and Maggie Rogers.”
When you have a long day of creating in your studio, what do you usually wear? “I always dress up—it makes me feel my best. Nowadays, I am in a colorful, cozy knit sweater, either pegged vegan leather pants or a jacquard printed midi skirt and square-toed, color-blocked ankle boots with a chunky heel. I like mixing sporty with feminine, so I will layer a Letterman jacket and have a graphic handbag that makes things punchy. I wear little palm tree earrings or big hoops.”
When it comes to accessories, what do you have your eye on for Spring? “I am loving Bottega Veneta’s new shoe silhouettes, Wandler’s color-blocked heels and Georgian brand Zarqua’s earrings and bags.”
You’re known for your artistic prints. What are you painting right now? “I am painting really detailed florals and then cutting them apart and collaging them. This creates a three-dimensional layered print that feels like a mosaic and brings our designs to life in a new way.” 98 BAL HARBOUR
COURTESY THE BASS MUSEUM OF ART; TANYA TAYLOR; BOTTEGA VENETA
What’s on your Miami hit list? “I love having a shopping day with my mom at Neiman Marcus and then people-watching at Carpaccio at Bal Harbour Shops. If I’m in need of a party dress or want a fun fashion moment, you can’t beat The Webster. I love visiting the Pérez and The Bass museums and some of the private art collections around town. I always have a drink at Le Sirenuse and dinner at the Four Seasons at the Surf Club—it’s my favorite hotel in the city, and you immediately feel like you are in a golden age with Hemingway by your side. In the mornings, I love to wake up with my son, have breakfast on the balcony, jump on the sofa (because he is obsessed with jumping!) and then head to the beach to make a sandcastle.”
Spring 2020 marks the second collection of Aliétte. What was the inspiration behind the line? “The Spring collection embodies an in-depth reflection on what it takes to be a woman and her ability to be whoever she wants to be—not confined by so-called societal norms. Growing up in Queens, New York, with a single parent who took on many roles within the household, I have been influenced by the power of strong, beautiful and graceful women. I discovered that the true essence of a woman lies in the attributes of who she is as a person, what she has to offer herself and to the people around her. My collection aspires to manifest that knowledge into physical compositions for all women.”
COURTESY OF REMBERT’S INSTAGRAM (JORDAN)
When it comes to your styling work, what is the relationship between you and your clients like? “Each relationship is special and unique. I never try to force looks on any client because their comfort and personal style is what comes first. It is truly a collaboration.”
JASON REMBERT STYLIST
What do Issa Rae, Ben Platt, Michael B. Jordan, Marsai Martin, Bebe Rexha and Rita Ora have in common? One could argue that it’s their shared ability to make a meaningful statement on the often superficial red carpet. Those statements are unexpected, get us talking and are courtesy of Jason Rembert, the stylist pulling strings to get his clients in custom Balmain and Prabal Gurung. Aside from his styling work, Rembert has taken the successful step toward designing his own women’s ready-to-wear label of shapely tailoring and louche evening wear, entitled Aliétte. Here, he gets personal about the women who have inspired him, his favorite Miami hotspots and his weakness for all things Raf Simons.
BY EMILY RAMSHAW PORTRAIT BY ALEX KUGLER 100 BAL HARBOUR
What are you listening to on repeat right now? “Snoh Aalegra, Daniel Caesar and Brent Faiyaz.” What’s the first thing you like to do when you come to Miami? “The first thing I do when I get to town is hit up Makoto at the Bal Harbour Shops. I stay at the Miami Beach Edition because of the hot sauce in the restaurant! I also like the employees, pool and beach, the scent and the convenience.”
What are you currently reading? “‘Brainwashed: Challenging the Myth of Black Inferiority’ by Tom Burrell.”
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BOUTIQUE BAL HARBOUR Bal Harbour Shops • 9700 Collins Avenue Tel: 305 865 1855
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COURTESY MAKOTO
Tell us about what you have planned this spring at your gallery space, The Office? Aside from my consulting work and the two brands I launched, the gallery is very special to me. I started collecting art when I was younger and always viewed it as a natural evolution of being a sneakerhead and an avid collector. I knew there must be “graduated sneakerheads” like me, hence why I wanted to bridge this void and help people approach art-collecting. I work with a variety of emerging artists both locally and internationally, and curate them for my friends, family and greater community. Next up: a group show showcasing artists like Thrush Holmes, Jason Seife, Hayley Barker and Matt McCormick, among others.
MATTHEW CHEVALLARD
What would be your dream afternoon spent at Bal Harbour Shops? Dining at Makoto or The Grill before perusing the shops, from Saks Fifth Avenue to Brunello Cucinelli to Goyard—all must-stops.
SHOE DESIGNER
For the past decade, Matthew Chevallard has come to be one of Miami’s most noted fashion and design impresarios, even as he jumps between the west coast and his native Italy. He burst onto the scene with his much beloved Del Toro footwear and lifestyle brand in 2006, but after recently selling the business and filling his dance card with streetwear consulting gigs, he’s back in the shoe game with two new label launches. For women, it’s Limone, a line of slippers that recall a seaside escape to Amalfi, Chevallard’s preferred destination. And for men, there is Blu Scarpa, his capsule collection of revisited classics that just landed at The Webster in Bal Harbour Shops. Read on to hear what else the entrepreneur has up his bespoke sleeve.
BY MOSHA LUNDSTRÖM HALBERT PORTRAIT BY SCOTT MCINTYRE How has Miami style evolved as of late? What do you wish we saw more (or less) of here? I think less is always more, especially in a peacocklike environment like Miami. Style around basics and classics and you can’t go wrong. For Spring, what’s on your wish list? Vintage tees and watches. But I’m also always looking for decor for the house. I’ve been gardening and upgrading my lighting with new fixtures as well. What are you currently reading, streaming, looking at, or listening to? I’m always reading magazines, from GQ and Architectural Digest 102 BAL HARBOUR
to Footwear News and Fast Company, among others. I look at as much art as possible at museums and galleries during my travels. And I listen to classic rock and hip-hop for the most part. What is your greatest extravagance? Oh, that’s a slippery slope. I’m a lush and can’t say what isn’t—from food to art to design, all things beautiful catch my eye. I’m Italian, so it’s in my blood. What are some of your key style signifiers these days when it comes to your personal wardrobe? Shoes! Always starts with the shoes. But all accessories in general.
You are known for your ability to transform spaces into unique environs. What are some of your current decor obsessions and interior design inspirations? I think it’s all about creating an experience, whatever context it’s in. Currently it’s blue as a theme and vibe, as well as Art Deco and Italian design. Memphis Milano and midcentury design are probably the foundations of my interests right now, decor-wise. Spring 2020 marks the launches of your latest ventures. How did these projects come about? Blu Scarpa is the second chapter of my career, which is a 2.0 approach to running a footwear brand. It is a uniform concept, handmade in Italy based on blue hues. Focusing on a twopair assortment, the loafer and the sneaker harmoniously pair together to satisfy everyday needs. They’re very curated and dedicated offerings for the discerning customer. Limone is an encapsulation of an Italian summer; the loafer is made out of a raffia weave and finished in Italian leather. For both men and women, this loafer helps you celebrate life.
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MOVER & Just down the street from Bal Harbour Shops, world-renowned architect Renzo Piano erects his first residential tower in the Western Hemisphere. Here, we catch up with David Martin, the developer behind the building. BY DAVID SOKOL PHOTO BY DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN
IF YOU WERE GIVEN THE OPPORTUNITY to spend an hour with developer David Martin, one inclination might be to get the details on his work with architecture hero Renzo Piano, who most recently completed Eighty Seven Park for his company Terra. Another might be to press for investment tips, given that Terra gravitates toward overlooked stretches of Miami coastline like North Beach, where Eighty Seven Park stands. We recommend resisting those impulses. Martin is no mere starchitecture groupie, nor is he a real-estate bargain hunter. The 42-yearold possesses a unique vision where business and design work together in service of communities. Here’s what we learned during our hour. How is Eighty Seven Park distinguished from Terra’s previous projects? First, we try to understand our psychographic, then we drive all our decisions to speak to this hypothetical target market. With Eighty Seven Park, the building is perpendicular to the ocean, to avoid creating a wall on the beach that divides the public from the water or the sun; as Renzo says, it’s democratic. At Terra, we’re also always trying to revitalize neighborhoods by improving parks. [The company supported Eighty Seven Park landscape architect West 8 to revitalize the adjacent North Shore Open Space Park.] And inside the building, the amount of lineal feet of transparency as it relates to unit size produces a unique connection to nature. That’s a nuanced approach to market differentiation. How does your outlook relate to Miami’s history of spectacular architecture? Our goal is to see if there’s a void we can fill, which would catalyze development of all the elements of a sustainable neighborhood— thriving schools, parks, small businesses—which then produces cash flow for the city to improve services. Architecturally significant buildings bring to bear some identity for these neighborhoods, which helps to formulate their evolution. 104 BAL HARBOUR
Was there a mentor or experience that made you a believer in good, holistic design? The first 10 years of my career, I understood the fundamentals of real estate, but I was in this business of maximizing risk transfer. I believe my enlightenment happened post [financial] crisis, when I wanted to be much more selective about neighborhoods and to make something appropriate for a particular area based on its infrastructure. What attracted you to Renzo? A friend of mine wanted me to meet him. We were flying from Dubai to Istanbul and then to Genoa; we lost our luggage and my wife was distraught. The way Renzo welcomed my wife, the way he had lunch prepared, the research he had done about the site prior to our talking: it was a connection. And what happens after you make a connection? I think that successful projects are ones where clients and architects develop a level of trust. We look for collaborators who push us in a responsible and trustworthy way. I learn a lot from that and it informs my next job. How have these collaborations shaped your personal definition of a good life? I think freedom is an important word. To have the freedom to connect or disconnect when you want. To have the freedom to access products, to access nature. Having like-minded individuals around you is important, too, but not without connections to different demographics and income levels, because that grounds you to what’s important in life. Are there nascent trends shaping your perspective? As we continue to see technology disruption, residential buildings are becoming more like ecosystems. People are shopping at home, storing their goods at home and working from home. That’s why you want to build in great natural environments—because that compels people to get out of their homes and engage with their communities.
SHAKER
Renzo Piano Building Workshop designed 87 Park’s lobby interiors, in collaboration with RDAI. BAL HARBOUR 105
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Sign of the Times The zodiac is once again part of the zeitgeist, with a new era of astrologers becoming stars in their own right. BY ELAINA PATTON
ILLUSTRATION BY RUBEN TOLEDO MODERN ASTROLOGY—THINK magazine column rather than Babylonian temple—has possessed varying degrees of cultural cachet since its advent in the early 20th century. But today, riding a surge of nonreligious spirituality and mobile-tech convenience, it’s more popular than it has been since the ‘60s, when New Age was all the rage. On Instagram and other social media platforms, astrology-themed videos and memes have become reliable forms of self-indulgent entertainment—what better way to laugh at oneself than a celebrity-inspired parody of your star sign?— but there are more sincere offerings, too, from pop culture phenomenons who offer bite-sized predictions to more traditional practitioners who devise complex birth charts for their remote clientele. Alex Dimitrov and Dorothea Lasky, who launched the Astro Poets Twitter account in 2016, feature a mix of low and high—celebrity content and memes, along with quotes from admired poets. But the duo is best known for crafting lyrical tweets in which zodiac signs become poetic figures. The delivery can be, at times, obscure: a recent horoscope for Leos read, “What has begun is what you asked for although you called it something else. What shells! Yes it really was you who was waiting.” But the duo’s over 500,000 followers seem to bask in the combination of artistry and astrology, and the popular pair have recently launched a podcast and a book. Using the web in a more traditional way, Chani Nicholas is part of a wave of socially conscious practitioners who approach birth charts as tools to help the star-crossed find fulfillment and self-love. Through her site and 108 BAL HARBOUR
newsletter, which reaches more than 200,000 people, she provides zodiacinformed political commentary and queer advocacy. She also boasts a seal of approval from the reigning queen of recommendations, as the resident astrologer for OprahMag.com. In January, Nicholas published her first book, “You Were Born for This: Astrology for Radical Self-Acceptance,” a self-help workbook with sections on determining your life’s purpose, your emotional and physical needs, and your motivation and drive—all packaged in a retro-inspired disco-glitter design. Some in the astrology world have fully embraced digi-ubiquity. Banu Guler’s extremely popular Co-Star app delivers the instant gratification of constant updates—you’ll never have to be caught off guard by Mercury in retrograde again—in matter-of-fact language that is nearly impossible to misinterpret. The daily horoscopes are generated by an algorithm that corresponds phrases—written by the in-house team of two poets, an editor and an astrologer—to astronomical phenomena. And even more traditional astrologists are also using mobile technology to further their reach. The beloved industry staple Susan Miller, a matriarch of modern astrology and an early adopter of digital platforms, now runs a massive network of offerings that retain her signature maternal style, including her own app. Astrology enthusiasts are quick to note that the practice is really intended to provide context and wisdom, not straightforward predictions about the future—a point that hasn’t discouraged new initiates. Indeed, in an age of social precarity and political upheaval, a little insight goes a long way.
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TWO FOR THE SHOW
How Oscar de la Renta’s designers, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, are embracing the past, reinventing the present and nurturing a whole new generation of swans along the way. BY NICK REMSEN PORTRAIT BY TIM WALKER
IN THE VAULTED main chamber of New York City’s 1920s-era Cunard Building last September, Oscar de la Renta’s chief design duo of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia sent out a Spring/Summer 2020 collection that thrummed with warm color and a subtle, freeing rhythm (think billowing and beaded caftans and bias-cut mini-dresses). Raffia 128 BAL HARBOUR
trims audibly swished as models glided down the long hall. A spritz of sharp citrus fragrance filtered through the still air. Kim and Garcia—hired as heads-of-house not long after de la Renta’s passing in 2014, and a brief lead installment of the designer Peter Copping (an arrangement that lasted just shy of two years)—were paying
A look from Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020
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homage to their label’s namesake’s homeland of the Dominican Republic and its capital city of Santo Domingo. The idea clicked; a nearly centuryold building in Manhattan’s clinically uninteresting Financial District felt, for about fifteen minutes, tropical and lush. The room was rife with the sort of fanciful and pretty Oscar-isms that well-heeled women have long counted on and adored. There were uptown day dresses, luxurious fabrications and eveningwear options aplenty, all rendered, this time, with a versatile and lightly Caribbean charisma. And with that, the lineup seemed destined to be popular in Miami, a location whose style Garcia describes as “easy, [packed with] bright colors and feminine.” While Canadian Kim and Dominican-born Garcia’s rise at Oscar de la Renta was logical to those inside the house, it still came as a bit of a surprise to industry-watchers. The two had, for many years, worked under the late designer (Garcia started as an intern). Kim was de la Renta’s head designer at the time of his death. In 2015, the pair founded their own label, named Monse, which garnered quick commercial and celebrity acclaim (Nicki Minaj even drops the moniker on her verse in A$AP Ferg’s hit song, “Plain Jane”). Monse is still around—these designers are busy—though it retains a decidedly more directional, if not experimental, approach. After Copping’s much-discussed appointment (and then his muchdiscussed exit), Kim and Garcia were brought back into the de la Renta fold, and have been both honoring the existing formal-meets-fabulous codes of the house while, simultaneously, modernizing them. Last year, they supervised the opening of the first Oscar de la Renta boutique in Paris. Miami is a key market, as well; it is established—the Oscar de la Renta boutique opened in Bal Harbour Shops just over fifteen years ago, with the man himself in attendance—yet there is room to grow. Indeed, “Miami is such an important city for this brand. Oscar always loved light, color and luminosity, and we feel that these adjectives perfectly describe the city,” says Garcia. Combined, their clothing designs have become more youthglancing (see those aforementioned minis). And their roster is widening Oscar de la Renta charm bracelet and drop earrings, above.
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to include more separates, more product categories and more accessories. As for the lattermost for Spring, a black woven-straw floral clasp bag and beaded tassel earrings in shell blue have an enthusiastic, invigorated appeal; they’re perfect entrees into the Oscar universe. “It really varies day-to-day,” says Kim, when asked about the balance between tradition and evolution. “We’re constantly adjusting and moving the collections forward, but we find it important to look at past Oscar shows from time to time. At the end of the day, we want to stay true to the brand’s DNA. But the designs also must be fresh and relevant.” “Our clientele is growing and changing,” adds Garcia. “We always stay true to her needs,” (needs that are predominantly fulfilled by event, red carpet and evening gowns), “but we want to introduce a sense of versatility, like evening separates, suiting, even denim. This makes the brand feel more approachable for today’s woman.” To wit, recent red carpet outings on a diverse group of women have included Glenn Close, Zoe Kravitz, Emily Ratajkowski, Beanie Feldstein and Daisy Ridley. The pair are well-equipped for such broadening. Monse’s immediate popularity was due, in part, to their shared ability in working with tailoring and shirting and making it feel renewed and energized. Case in point: they can do sophistication, but the stodginess that sometimes comes intertwined with the term is knifed out. Plus, having worked closely with de la Renta for as many years as they did, their combined skill set is unique; it is just one of the habits ingrained by their great mentor, and one of many instinctive reactions to those practices. Some things need to change—and some things never will. That’s the beauty of working at a legacy brand like Oscar. “Oscar would sit in the room with the entire design team, and we would collaborate as a group,” says Kim. “It was the most efficient way of working. No emails, no charts. Just brainstorming and sketching and discussing how we all wanted the collection to take shape,” adds Garcia. “And that is something we channel, day-to-day. But it’s also important for us to take risks,” concludes Kim. “We have had some collections that have not been as successful as others, but without taking risks, we would not be able to move it forward.”
All imagery courtesy Oscar de la Renta.
Looks from Oscar de la Renta Spring 2020
“Miami is such an important city for this brand. Oscar always loved light, color and luminosity, and we feel that these adjectives perfectly describe the city.� -Fernando Garcia BAL HARBOUR 131
E B HIN F E D H C T
P T PLA T E FEC ER
E H
With Chef Antonio Mermolia at the helm, Le Sirenuse Miami dishes up elevated Italian classics as only this famed Positano import can.
TH E
BY JEN K A R ET N ICK PHOTOGR A PH Y BY SCOT T MCI N T Y R E 132 BAL HARBOUR
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IN THE KITCHEN AT Le Sirenuse Miami, while the prep cooks set up the mise en place for the dinner rush, Antonio Mermolia is making me spaghettone pomodoro e basilico. As he moves fluidly around the stove burner, stirring this with tongs and ladling that, he displays the spaghetti he will use: the finest dried Pasta di Gragnano, a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) product that’s generated from high-protein wheat near Puglia. He demonstrates its coarse exterior, the bend from where it hangs on rods to slowly dry in both mountain and coastal breezes at 122 degrees Fahrenheit. This is important, he says, because when you’re eating dried pasta, you need to first taste the pasta. You can’t hide behind a filling, as you can with fresh ravioli, or pretend it’s simply a vehicle for sauce. Next, he discusses that sauce. The three different kinds of tomatoes that go into it, all with different levels of sweetness and acidity—vine-ripe, cherry and San Marzano. The verdant basil that is popped in and pulled out like needlepoint. The additions of olive oil and starchy pasta water to temper any tartness. In Italy, pomodoro sauce, he tells me, is the equivalent of mole in Mexico. “Everybody has one. Everyone’s mama, everyone’s grandma. It is challenging to present it because it truly represents southern Italy. But no one in high gastronomy cooks it,” he smiles. Which is precisely why he presents it à la minute (made to order) as one of his signature dishes, spooled like thread around a spindle in the middle of a plate. It is simple, and it is simply wonderful, the spaghetti a delightful rough chew between the teeth, glistening with richly distilled tomato sauce that has a creamy texture, although there is no cream in it. Southern Italy is proud to know Antonio Mermolia. Of course, it knew him already. The chef de cuisine has a storied background and an impressive resume: He was originally tapped to play in Italy’s national basketball league. Eventually, he chose instead to work in 134 BAL HARBOUR
hospitality and gastronomy. Rising from server to chef at his family’s business, the historic Hotel Villa Calliope, he left to apprentice with the renowned Pietro D’Agostino at La Capinera in Sicily. His culinary journey took him to Manhattan in 2012, where he caught critics’ eyes at IL Punto. In 2014, he moved to Mulino a Vino and then, a year later, the opportunity to open a southern Italian restaurant, Capatosta, presented itself. But fate, in the form of his father’s illness, would bring him back to southern Italy for real, and he didn’t know if he would ever return to the States. “As much as we make plans,” he says, “somebody is already making plans for us.” Leaving himself open to possibility turned out to be Mermolia’s best decision. While he was tending to his family business, he received a call. Antonio Sersale, owner of Le Sirenuse hotel and the Michelin-starred La Sponda restaurant, had heard about him, and wanted to meet. Mermolia took a boat from Salerno to Positano, and wound up in Miami the next year to debut Le Sirenuse in The Surf Club. Though he now only plays basketball for leisure and exercise, there’s no question that his athletic past informs his epicurean present. The same way that a basketball player makes a foul shot sink as if he were tossing a paper cup into a garbage can, Mermolia cooks with all kinds of structure and technique. Still, he says, “You don’t need to see my effort. You don’t need to see the pain.” In other words, the fare at Le Sirenuse Miami—whether it’s Mermolia’s la caprese calda, which he elevates by warming it, or as distinct as the green salad that he serves in a molded bowl of ice with lemon sorbet dressing—is going to appear effortlessly put together. Mermolia, who is not shy but humble, would rather have the attention be on the food than on himself. He says that the plates represent him, connect him to his guests and speak for him. Clearly, we are listening. Indeed, we keep coming back for more of this unpretentious, masterful conversation.
For Chef Antonio Mermolia, food is a way of connecting and communicating with his guests.
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Meet the Eye
Inside the mind and aesthetic wonderland of tastemaker Athena Calderone, whose latest book examines the creative process behind the personal spaces of fellow arbiters of style. BY JULIE BAUMGARDNER PORTRAIT BY SARAH ELLIOTT
IT WOULD BE EASY, upon first glance, to write off Athena Calderone as yet another leggy influencer peddling perfection. But that would be too superficial. And Calderone, through her EyeSwoon (@eyeswoon) platform, has shown the world that lifestyle has meaning and depth. Through her love of food, design, fashion and all things aesthetic, including her own homes in Brooklyn and Amagansett, NY, Calderone has documented the journey for all to see—and actually learn a thing or two. “I’m a mega-sharer,” says Calderone. “I’m not a hoarder of information.” And it is the knowledge of living well that Calderone is sharing with the world. Come March, Calderone releases her second tome, “Live Beautiful,” the obvious-for-her pairing to her successful “Cook Beautiful,” which won a James Beard Award in 2018 for its sumptuous photography and clever focus on the art of food styling. Calderone, in fact, sold a two-book deal with interiors being her next target. But basic coffee table book this is not. Okay, sure, “Live Beautiful” features the fabulous homes of Calderone’s friends: television personalities Nate Berkus and Jeremiah Brent, fashion executive Jenna Lyons, creative director Giancarlo Valle, the design duo Roman and 136 BAL HARBOUR
Williams and decorator Pamela Shamshiri, among others. “It was a really organic process, actually. Some people are really close to me; others have then become really close to me,” says Calderone, whose last name might ring a bell—her husband is noted techno DJ Victor Calderone. “A few have been in my orbit for years and I really admire them; but then others, I just went out on a limb and reached out to say, ‘Hey, I’m writing this book.’” Although, it’s not hard to believe that Calderone collects people as she moves through the world. With her warm demeanor, she is instantly likable. Her tastes are at once sophisticated and unconventional, though neither quirky nor cookie-cutter—take fearlessly stripping and bleaching her Jacques Adnet cabinet to the horror of a few purists, which of course became whispers of envy. “Live Beautiful” is an invitation to join Calderone in her gorgeous, nuanced world—but central to the premise is how to pull it all off. “I love teaching and sharing tidbits,” explains Calderone. “The thing that excites me about what I do is offering extractable, digestible tips.” In every home featured in the book, Calderone has coursed through each vignette, analyzing the practical magic that makes the room work.
Athena Calderone’s upcoming book, “Live Beautiful,” offers a glimpse into the personal spaces of creatives and explores the process of transforming a house into a home.
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Nate Berkus and Jeremiah Brent’s home in LA, as pictured in “Live Beautiful.” Opposite: Athena’s home in Brooklyn.
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“In my twenties, when my friends were out developing themselves in the career space and figuring out who they were, I was figuring out who I was in the home.”
“The book’s not just something to look at,” she says. “My whole concept was to dissect how these creative journeys and choices, and the alchemy of design, come together.” Indeed, it’s how the author herself learned about interiors and the art of the home. “I really felt like my own homes were a foil for me to express that initial vision of how design comes together,” she explains of her own journey designing eight of her homes as a self-taught designer. (Calderone eventually enrolled in courses at Parsons School of Design.) Calderone explains how “in my twenties, when my friends were out developing themselves in the career space and figuring out who they were, I was figuring out who I was in the home,” hosting dinner parties for friends, many of whom were the who’s who of art, fashion, media and design. “I’m a super curious person, so I’m always
asking them about the creative process,” she says. “I always just want to understand the hows and whys of a creative journey: ‘How did you get there?’ ‘What were the building blocks?’ ‘What was the original inspiration?’” In the “Live” series, she’s passing on these secrets of the pros, which in her mind is ultimately “to be content and comfortable in your environment.” “Each of my homes gave me an opportunity to educate my eye,” she goes on. Calderone has created the home as her dominion and made it a nurturing place to always want to be. “It brings me so much joy to be in my home. I love that you can look at your home and trace pieces back to a certain trip you went on or an image you saw somewhere. I’m such a believer that what you surround yourself with tells your story.” BAL HARBOUR 139
Standing
From left: Kathryn Mikesell, Tamar Tzubeli, Carla Nunez, Juliana Velez, Karen Huggins, Leilani Lynch, Vanessa Rose Tilley and Esther Park.
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Miami’s current crop of women of influence possess an impressive mix of style and substance. Here, they gather at 87 Park, the city’s newest architectural gem. BY EMILY RAMSHAW PHOTOGRAPHY BY GESI SCHILLING PRODUCED BY SARAH HARRELSON
Tall
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KATHRYN MIKESELL
FOUNDER, THE FOUNTAINHEAD RESIDENCY @KATHRYNMIKESELL @FOUNTAINHEADRESIDENCY
Shopping craving: Stella McCartney. I love her use of sustainable materials. Latest closet addition: Local designer items, including a bracelet by Soledad Lowe, a dress by Krel, a rope necklace by Lisu Vega and a bag by Pangea Kali Virga. Currently reading: “12 Rules for Life: An Antidote to Chaos” by Jordan Peterson and “All the Light We Cannot See” by Anthony Doerr. Perfect day: “Meeting in the middle” with my girlfriends from Fort Lauderdale for a lunch of rosé and sushi, sitting outside at Makoto, Bal Harbour. Dream job: I’m lucky that I live my dream every day, working with many talented artists locally and from around the world. Proudest accomplishment: The Fountainhead Residency and Studios and Artists Open, Miami’s only countywide open studio day where over 300 artists open their studios and invite the public inside.
CARLA NUNEZ CONTENT CREATOR @CARLANUNEZ_
Shopping craving: Zimmermann! Right now I’m in love— it’s one of my favorite brands. Latest closet addition: A new pair of Louboutins. Daily uniform: I’m always wearing different white tops. They’re essential pieces in my wardrobe. Currently reading: “Build an Empire: How to Have it All” by Elena Cardone. Best style advice: I look up to Carolina Herrera, who says that a white shirt never goes out of style. And that’s true… it never fails. 142 BAL HARBOUR
JULIANA VELEZ
COMMUNITY RELATIONS MANAGER, WSP @JULIANA.VELEZG
Shopping craving: A Casasola sustainable shorts suit from The Webster. Watching and reading: I love the show Explained, and I’m re-reading Ocean Ramsey’s “What You Should Know About Sharks.” Desert island beauty product: Elta MD sunscreen and cruelty-free sugar lip scrub from Beauty For Real. Surprising job detail: The intricacies I deal with. Job titles are misleading and I wear many hats. Learned skill: I have learned to follow rules. In order to create the changes I want to see, I’ve had to learn many ways to get it done. I am very persistent and optimistic.
KAREN HUGGINS FASHION BLOGGER
@KARENHUGGINS_BLOG
Shopping craving: Colorful Dior handbags and romantic Chloé dresses. Daily uniform: Blazer and jeans. It makes it easy to go from the office to dinner. Currently reading: ”Female Innovators at Work: Women on Top of Tech” by Danielle Newnham. Double hustle: I have two jobs; I have been working in telecommunications for more than 10 years along with my work as a fashion and travel blogger. Platform perk: Having a voice through social media means I get to talk about social topics that are important to me, such as sustainable fashion and women’s rights. BAL HARBOUR 143
LEILANI LYNCH CURATOR, THE BASS @LEILANILYNCH_
Shopping craving: I’m loving the vibe of Miu Miu’s Spring 2020 line. It’s ‘80s and feminine. Daily uniform: My style is a mixture of comfort, quirk and sentimentality. Day-to-day you can find me wearing Uniqlo with something vintage I’ve owned since college, comfortable shoes and my mother’s Peace Corps ring. Focusing on: The upcoming election. Auditory obsessions: I’m a podcast and audiobook junkie! Some of my favorite podcasts are “Feeling Asian,” “Still Processing,” “Teenager Therapy,” “Forever 35,” and “Who? Weekly.” I’m currently listening to “The Sympathizer” by Viet Thanh Nguyen with my husband. Work perks: Producing projects that not only enable new explorations within the artist’s practice, but also make space for dialogue about topics that are important to the current global conversation. Miami art world bests: It’s everchanging and evolving. The artists, creators, galleries and art organizations are the lifeblood of the city and their energy is palpable.
TAMAR TZUBELI FASHION BLOGGER @FASHIONBYTAMAR
Latest closet addition: My beyond gorgeous Rene Caovilla crystal wedding shoes from Neiman Marcus Bal Harbour. Currently streaming: The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel. Perfect day: Stopping at Neiman Marcus and checking out the new collections, going to the Dior concession at Saks Fifth Avenue to see their new beauty products and, of course, heading upstairs to Bianco Gelato for their delicious ice cream. I love the vegan coconut—it’s so refreshing. Then I head to all my favorite shops: Dolce & Gabbana, Zimmermann, Chanel and many more... Social media secret: I’m actually a modest influencer and promote modest fashion. My favorite thing is to create trendy, fashion-forward looks that are modest as well. Dream project: As far as brands I love, my dream would be to work with Dolce & Gabbana.
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VANESSA ROSE TILLEY FASHION BLOGGER @VANESSAROSETILLEY
Latest closet addition: I just got my first Chanel bag last Christmas—blush pink with tiny pearls. It may be a small step for mankind, but one giant leap for me. Springtime inspiration: Traveling to Paris Fashion Week, a dream that just became reality. Currently reading: “The Ride of a Lifetime” by Robert Iger. It’s a candid book, full of business lessons. The narratives of Disney’s recent acquisitions are fascinating. Work perks: Being able to meet so many amazing and talented people around the world, making my own schedule and having something new to work on every day. Perfect day: It definitely starts with grabbing some macarons at Ladurée, browsing Books & Books and meeting friends over at Miu Miu to decide on the new wardrobe additions.
ESTHER PARK
VICE PRESIDENT OF PROGRAMMING, OOLITE ARTS MIAMI @PARKESTA
Shopping craving: I am the worst shopper, but I do love a great book, so anything from Books & Books is a go-to. Favorite restaurants: Boia De in Little Haiti, Dumpling King in North Miami Beach and Mr. C in Coconut Grove. Springtime inspiration: Harvesting mangoes. Rewarding work: Identifying and supporting artists and giving them a platform to share their gifts with the world. Job myth: That programming is just booking a DJ to play at an opening. Genuine public programming is knowing your audience, identifying the core ethos of the set program and recognizing key metrics of success. From programming the first block party in Wynwood for MOCA back in 2005, to putting on the first big hip-hop concert at the Adrienne Arsht Center, my programs leave indents in people’s timelines and in the city’s narrative.
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Luck of the Draw The story of rising star illustrator Jenny Kroik is as enjoyable as her evocative works. BY CAIT MUNRO
FOR MOST ILLUSTRATORS, scoring a New Yorker cover is the pinnacle of career success. For Jenny Kroik, a 35-year-old artist who began pursuing professional illustration when she moved to New York in 2016, it happened both quickly and organically. “I didn’t really have a contact, I just found various email addresses and I decided I would just do one a week, different ideas, and send them. I thought, ‘Nobody’s looking at these probably-disconnected emails I found,’” she recalls. “And then, I got a reply a few months later.” She has since done the magazine’s cover three times. It’s hard to believe, looking at her work, that Kroik has only lived in New York for three years. Born in St. Petersburg, Russia and raised in Israel, she earned a BFA from the Art Institute of Boston in 2006 and an MFA from the University of Oregon in 2010, where she later taught. “I’m definitely a city girl,” she says, confessing that before New York, “I lived in various places where I always felt a bit uncomfortable, like I’m not quite in the right place.” 146 BAL HARBOUR
In Kroik’s illustrations, landmarks like the subway, the Strand, the Met, the New Museum, Eataly, and Bryant Park serve as backdrops for stylishly-dressed women—her subjects are almost always female, and even when they’re not, she says, viewers think they are—to live out quietly aspirational urban fantasies. Hers is a picturesque version of the city, with less garbage and traffic jams and more friendly fauna and sidewalk hand-holding than the real deal. Which is, of course, what makes them so enjoyable. For a recent New Yorker series, currently available online, Kroik visited the homes of local collectors to depict what living with art is really like (spoiler: it’s pretty wonderful). This also meant rendering paintings by the likes of Kara Walker and LaToya Ruby Frazier, as well as some sharply-observed features of the homes, like a handbag that looks like a dog or a rainbow-shaped cat toy strewn across the floor. While she majored in illustration as an undergrad, she was reticent to pigeonhole herself into one medium too early in her career and also
Illustrator Jenny Kroik in her studio. Opposite page: one of the artist’s works, Selfie Hall.
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“Something that I’m thinking about for this year is having even more of a range of people, ages and body types.” experimented with installation, printmaking and large-scale painting. “Then I kind of circled back to what I started with and came at it from a different perspective,” she says. In addition to her work for The New Yorker, as well as The Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, Cultured, and Penguin Random House, Kroik takes private commissions and works with the platform Society6, which allows artists to easily sell prints online. And thanks to Instagram, where she currently has over 21,000 followers, Kroik says she’s managed to connect with niche fandoms for many of the recurring themes in her works: plants, bookstores, fine art and food. “Something that I’m thinking about for this year is having even more of a range of people, ages, and body types,” Kroik says. “I think 148 BAL HARBOUR
it’s important to see someone that’s like you represented. It’s about communication—if you want to talk to a lot of people, you have to address them.” Like many young creative freelancers, Kroik says feeling like she’s “making it” means something different every day. “You’re always kind of paddling,” she explains. “It’s kind of like, I could take this job and make money, but then I’ll produce work that will get me more work I don’t want to do. So how do you get to do the work you want to do?” It’s an age-old question that’s rankled plenty of artists. But with her detailed and stylish world-building, recurring depictions of flora, fashion and the beautiful sides of New York, Kroik has ensured she’ll have an ever-growing fan base following along as she figures it out.
Jenny Kroik’s exclusive illustration for Bal Harbour magazine, Anja at Bal Harbour, with Ghost Orchid. Opposite page, clockwise from top: Dorina and the Mannequins, Looking at Lee Bontecou at the MoMa and Gold at the Met.
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Inaugural Exhibition & Amoako Boafo:
1100 NW 29 ST, Miami, FL 33127 Wed – Sun, 10:30 am – 5:30 pm www.rubellmuseum.org 305.573.6090
Amoako Boafo, detail of Missy May, 2019
Artist-in-Residence
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A PLACE IN THE SUN Photography by Pablo Costanzo
Styling by Mariela Ortega
Rule of thumb: the more formal the quarters, the more fun to be had with fashion. Take an elegant escape at Four Seasons at The Surf Club and dress the part in a playful approach to daytime glamour – from leisurely tailoring to look-at-me sleeves.
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Balenciaga waisted blazer and silk chiffon blouse, 305.864.4932.
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Johanna Ortiz oversized puff sleeve top, available at Neiman Marcus, 305.865.6161. Valentino black low neck dress, 305.867.1215. Chanel black bracelet with pearls, 305.868.0550. Stella McCartney woven sandals, 305.864.2218.
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Miu Miu white gauze dress with floral embroidery and wood clogs, 305.993.2300.
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Dolce & Gabbana tulle bustier dress, 305.866.0503. Eric Javits hat, available at Neiman Marcus, 305.865.6161.
Gucci silk chiffon ruffle blouse, green knit jacket and cropped pant, 305.868.6504. Stella McCartney sunglasses, 305.864.2218. 208 BAL HARBOUR 166
Chanel multicolor tweed jacket and skirt, shoes, jewelry, 305.868.0550. Balmain blue tweed top underneath jacket, 305.397.8152.
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Gucci check tweed jacket with silk trim and skirt, 305.868.6504.
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Balenciaga velvet turtleneck dress and earrings, 305.864.4932. Linda Farrow oversized sunglasses, 305.864.8221.
Rosetta Getty pink sleeveless cross-front gown, available at Neiman Marcus,305.865.6161. Gucci serpent bracelet, 305.868.6504.
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Balenciaga black and white pleated printed blouse and round monogram bag, 305.864.4932.
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Prada printed knit top and skirt, flat sandals, 305.864.9111. Givenchy double-breasted capeback blazer vest, available at Saks Fifth Avenue, 305.865.1100. Photographer: Pablo Costanzo Stylist: Mariela Ortega Fashion Assistants: Michaela Roque, Ana Sofia Perazzo Model: Alina Kozyrka Hair: Cesar Ferrette Makeup: Nanda Quero Digital Technicians: Daryl Santos, Edward Perdomo/ Oszo Lab
Special thanks to the Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club
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The Insider’s Guide to Puglia
The Adriatic Coast beckons. Get the downlow on la dolce vita in the enchanting southern region favored by locals and jet-setters alike. BY MOSHA LUNDSTRÖM HALBERT
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PUGLIA SEEMED TO BE following me. It kept popping up on my Instagram feed, via the likes of Athena Calderone (page 138), Tanya Taylor (page 98) and blurry paparazzi snaps of ultimate holiday muse, Kate Moss. Even my decor mood boards were pinned with the Puglia holiday haven of interior design duo Ludovica and Roberto Palomba. And my most trusted friends kept tempting me with talks of chalky villas out of a Merchant Ivory film and citrusy olive oil on tap—remarkably, Puglia is responsible for over half of Italy’s total production. And so, after a previous summer sojourn spent in the gloriously excessive Dolce & Gabbana advertisement that is Capri, the stripped-back, rustic ease of Puglia beckoned. After a quick cursory search, I haphazardly threw a proverbial Google dart and booked the Masseria Torre Coccaro, a family-run estate located in the province of Brindisi, on a whim. Upon pulling up to the dusty path of the property, ensconced in a working olive orchard and golf course, we were warmly welcomed as if we were visiting relatives. This is exactly what we had come to the Adriatic Coast for— the kind of unstudied, informal hospitality that immediately puts one at ease. Our White Cave suite, with its own private gardens and pool, was at once grand and yet wabi sabi. For the nightly feast, we dined family-style at the estate’s palazzo. Sitting on long benches or perched on canvas-wrapped bales of hay, we enjoyed handmade orecchiette pasta, salt-baked branzino and fresh burrata galore. After a day spent swimming and sunning at the owner’s accompanying beach club, the buzzy Le Palme, utter bliss had certainly set in. Added bonus: the hotel and beach club both have outposts of TulsiShop, a destination boutique of the chicest order. Proprietress Deborah Nolan, a vagabond Englishwoman and former Hollywood stylist, carries an assortment of airy Italian cotton holiday dresses and printed caftans that are good enough for Ms. Moss herself, a recent client. For our last night, we aperitivo-hopped through the ancient walled city of Ostuni. With its ethereal candlelit glow and eight Michelin star restaurants—a most impressive ratio to its population of just over 30,000—it wooed us, Puglian style. How do you say “paradise found” in Italian again? Paradiso trovato, indeed.
PHOTO BY AIDAN BUTLER
Writer Mosha Lundstrรถm Halbert at Masseria Torre Coccaro in Puglia.
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Alex Merrell in Puglia.
Puglia By The Pros
From top: Ponte Ciolo in Gagliano del Capo; spaghetti alle vongole at Bagno Marino Archi; Bagno Marino Archi Beach Club.
What drew you to Puglia? “As a die-hard Italophile, I’m always on the lookout for new regions to explore. I received a last-minute invitation from my dear friend Ali O’Neill, designer of luxury womenswear label Markarian, so I zipped from Tuscany over to the southernmost tip of Italy’s heel.” What were your favorite discoveries? “We chose to stay further south than most because of Palazzo Daniele, a stunning property from hotelier Gabriele Salini, owner of G-Rough in Rome, and Francesco Petrucci, whose family has owned the Pugliese mansion for five generations. When we could pull ourselves away from our beautiful hotel, we had dinner al fresco at Locanda del Levante, Negronis at Helen Mirren’s cocktail bar Farmacia Balboa, and danced the night away at BluBay, a sprawling open-air discoteca.” Why do you think this region is currently experiencing a moment? “It has become increasingly challenging to escape the negative effects of tourism, which I realize deserves an eye roll coming from a tourist, but southern Puglia has yet to be overcome by screechy tour groups. It was a delight to bumble through restaurant orders with my thirty words of Italian and not hear a word of English.” What makes Puglia a unique destination? “The terrain is breathtaking, the seafood is 174 BAL HARBOUR
delicious and the beach clubs are as Italian as it gets. Each day, we found ourselves weaving along coastal roads through olive groves and cacti to pull up in a new charming town for spaghetti ai ricci (with sea urchin) and a swim.” What’s your Puglian packing strategy? “Despite being fanatical about carry-on only travel, I am by no means a minimalist. I leave anything restrictive or fussy at home and opt for lightweight pieces that can be worn day to night, dressed up with a big pair of earrings and a bold lip. Puglia is on the more casual side, but it’s still Italy for goodness’ sake, so low-heeled sandals and slip dresses in bold prints are the way to go.” Where at Bal Harbour Shops would you pop in prior to a Puglian getaway? “Aquazzura for sandals, with a stop at Bianco Gelato because I’m already on an Italian diet.” Any insider tips you picked up? “You’ll need a car for day trips, but learn from our mistake and rent the smallest one on the lot. It will save you from crawling out of the sunroof to direct your friend through the narrowest streets you’ve seen. Speaking of day trips, don’t miss lunching and sunning at the charming Lo Scalo, watching cliff jumpers below the bridge at Il Ciolo and swimming at hidden gem Bagno Marino Archi, an off-the-beaten-path beach club that couldn’t feel more authentic.”
PHOTO BY ALEXANDRA O’NEILL; ALEX MERRELL
Alex Merrell, a globe-trotting DJ and the founder of travel platform TREC (trec.life), on southern Puglia.
Italian Love Affair
PHOTO BY ANDREA WYNER
Frances Mayes, the bestselling author of “Under The Tuscan Sun,” has just released a new book, “Always Italy,” which dedicates a chapter to all things Puglia.
Frances Mayes and co-author Ondine Cohane
Masseria Torre Coccaro
What was your first encounter with the region? “When I first drove through Puglia, I was astounded at the beauty of the northernmost coastline called the Gargano—those perched villages and the stony fields dropping down to azure water. I kept saying, ‘Why does everyone go to the crowded Amalfi coast? This is so beautiful.’ I was enchanted by the bright, clear light that looks transparent. I saw quickly that there’s an overwhelming amount to discover—castles and Romanesque architecture, the ancient trulli structures, isolated villages with interesting places to stay, the masserie, old fortified farmhouses now converted into sybaritic inns.” What makes Puglia such a desirable spot in Italy right now? “The great bonus is the cuisine and wine—what a pleasure. I could go there for the bread alone. The loaves are enormous, with a cake-like texture and vibrant taste of good, pure wheat. Great wine is amazingly inexpensive. Cooks put big emphasis on vegetables, especially bitter greens and, of course, on seafood. I like visiting vineyards and also producers of water buffalo mozzarella. Visitors usually go to Puglia for the stupendous beaches but, like me, many fall in love with the food and the inland villages.” As an Italy expert, what makes Puglia unique? “Look at the map—what a long, spiny stretch south, and along both the Adriatic and the Ionian Seas. Water, water, everywhere. Because it was Greek (some villages still have language remnants), and was raided and colonized by many marauders—Byzantine, Norman, Arab, etc.— the cultural influences are rich and varied. Often on one church, you can trace four different styles converging. And a great many prehistoric structures remain—stone dolmens and menhirs, domes and pyramidal structures, just standing out in fields. I especially love the ancient, huge olive trees, groves of them like old spirits twisting. They are lovely in spring when the ground is covered in a tapestry of wildflowers.” BAL HARBOUR 175
Masseria Torre Coccaro’s on-site olive vineyard.
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COURTESY MASSERIA TORRE COCCARO
From top: Horseback riding along the seaside farmlands, “Always Italy” by Frances Mayes and Ondine Cohane and sunset at Masseria Torre Coccaro.
From space, the many white villages of Puglia must look like someone spilled a basket of pearls. They run the length of the region, making up the spur and heel of the boot, and dot the inland, gleaming from afar like apparitions. Is this Italy? Looks like Greece. Or Tunisia? Or cubist paintings? Inside the villages, the mystery deepens: Stone lanes twist, dead-end, and climb to ramparts where often the sea view is a thin aquamarine ribbon. Some invader was always threatening, and small windows and strong doors are remnants of protection. Whitewash was thought to prevent plague. The Greeks were here first, and it shows: Traces of their language linger in dialects and in the bone-white houses. Towns feel as secretive as medinas, even with balconies of spilling surfinia and geraniums. Ostuni may be the prime example, but rivals include Trani, Monopoli, Martina Franca, Peschici, Vieste, and Locorotondo. The gleaming villages characterize settled Puglia, but the landscape is defined by older structures: the mysterious stone dolmens, menhirs, and trulli, scattered in the fields. Despite centuries of looting, development, and weather, a surprising number endure. Sometimes you catch a glimpse of one as you speed down a highway lined with ugly industry; often, one just appears, old as time, in an olive grove. Clusters survive around the coastal cities of Taranto and Otranto, in the Bari province, and far south into the Salento at the tip of Puglia. No one knows the function of these ancient stone structures. Dolmens—simply a flat stone on top of two vertical ones, like a table—might have been tombs or places of sacrifice, while the monolithic stone menhirs from 4000 to 1200 b.c. are thought to have been places of worship connected to fertility or sun cults, with possible astrological purposes. If both seem primitive, even foreboding, the trulli are fanciful conical dwellings skillfully made from stacked, upwardly spiraling stones, ending in a pointy top often adorned with an ornament. Though they have older roots as shelter in agricultural fields, trulli became easy housing in the 16th century, when overlords allowed their peasants to build such structures. Or, as some believe, the canny peasants built them for a specific purpose: When the owners came every few years to visit, they could pull out the keystone and the whole thing collapsed, saving them from paying tax. Owner leaves; house rebuilt. Today these strangely endearing trulli are coveted and cared for, and often they are still inhabited. They’re thrilling to spot in a field of wheat or wildflowers, but when concentrated— the town of Alberobello has more than 1,500— there’s a unique atmosphere, as though you’ve
crossed over into the land of elves and gnomes. More than that of any other region, the cuisine emphasizes vegetable and fish recipes that hark back to the roots of ancient life, when the rural folk were abjectly poor. Resourceful by necessity, they even gathered wheat grains that remained when the fields were burned after harvest; the charred grains were called arso. Make do with what you have! As it turned out, incorporating arso into the dough gave the bread a toasty aroma. The practice continues, but now by roasting, not by stoop-labor gathering. Foraging for cicoria (chicory), dandelion, hyacinth bulbs, as well as growing turnips, chickpeas, fave, and every legume possible led to the vegetablebased cuisine that now seems so contemporary. Chefs have a high awareness of biologico, organic products—more than I’ve seen in any other part of Italy. What a joy to graze through Puglia. There’s not a more stimulating region to visit in Italy. Everyone comes here for the secret beaches and limpid water, but there’s much to do in Puglia other than bask in the sun. In addition to the characteristic white towns, some favorite stops along the way, zigzagging north to south: The “spur” at the top of the heel—the forested and hilly Gargano promontory—rivals the Amalfi Coast for scenery, especially around Vieste and Mattinata. Dine at a rickety trabocco, an old fishing structure built in the water. At the ancient town of Manfredonia, the facade of 12th-century Basilica di Siponto has been treated to an imaginative intervention by the innovative young architect Edoardo Tresoldi. The ruined church in the rear has been completely reconstructed—but in wire. The ghost of the former inhabitant! Romanesque churches in the particular Puglian style are balm to the eyes of architecture buffs. Especially moving are the ones located in Trani, Ostuni, Ruvo, Otranto, and Bitonto. Trani’s has the most dramatic setting, on a windswept piazza facing the sea. Across looms what looks like a sand castle but was built in 1233 by Frederick II. Slightly inland in Troia, I found my favorite church, Santa Maria Assunta. I’m mesmerized by its magnificent stone rose window. Begun in 1093 but not finished until 1127, it anchors the town in an intimate way and reveals successive influences of Byzantine, Saracen, Norman, and Pisan Romanesque architecture. Staring up at the window while having a coffee is a double pleasure, since the bread and pastry aromas of two bakeries waft into the piazza. Excerpted from Frances Mayes’s “Always Italy” by Frances Mayes with Ondine Cohane. Published by National Geographic Books. Available March 31, 2020 wherever books are sold. BAL HARBOUR 177
Art & PHOTOGRAPHY BY PABLO COSTANZO STYLING BY MARIELA ORTEGA
A curation of Spring’s most expressive pieces, brought to life against the backdrop of Miami’s monumental new Rubell Museum.
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On Janica: Fendi suede coat, knitted top, corduroy paper bag trousers and monogrammed sandals, 305.864.3507. On Eftagine: Fendi pleated chiffon dress, leather fanny pack and monogrammed wedges, 305.864.3507. Artwork by John Miller (foreground) and Richard Prince.
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Dolce & Gabbana tulle bustier dress, 305.866.0503. Eric Javits hat, available at Neiman Marcus, 305.865.6161.
On Eftagine: ChloĂŠ pleated chiffon dress and silk blouse on top, 305.861.1909. On Janica: Cult Gaia pleated military green dress, available at Saks Fifth Avenue, 305.865.1100. Saint Laurent flat black leather sandals, 305.868.4424. Artwork by Oscar Murillo.
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Balenciaga khaki oversized coat, red Eiffel Tower-print dress and leggings, open toe mules and monogrammed jewelry, 305.864.4932. Artwork by Carl Andre (foreground) and Rashid Johnson.
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“TODAY PEOPLE BUY A PIECE OF ART AND SUDDENLY CALL THEMSELVES COLLECTORS. IT WAS YEARS BEFORE WE LOOKED IN THE MIRROR AND SAID, ‘OH MY GOD, WE ARE COLLECTORS.’” —MERA RUBELL
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On Janica: Alexander McQueen leather and lace dress and leather boots with buckle, 305.866.2839. On Eftagine: Chanel white tweed coat, black and white tweed skirt, pumps and hair accessories, 305.868.0550. Artwork by Thomas Houseago (foreground) and George Condo.
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On Janica: Sacai double lapel camel blazer, available at Saks Fifth Avenue, 305.865.1100. On Eftagine: Proenza Schouler baby blue dress, available at The Webster, 305.868.6544. Artwork by Jonathan Lyndon Chase.
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Heron Preston white shortsleeve button-up, available at The Webster, 305.868.6544. Monse silk pleated pattern skirt, available at Saks Fifth Avenue, 305.865.1100. Prada black leather loafers with gold detail, 305.864.9111.
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Alexander McQueen dress, boots with buckle and oversized waist belt, 305.866.2839. Lana silver hoops, available at Saks Fifth Avenue, 305.865.1100. Artwork by Thomas Houseago (foreground) and George Condo.
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On Janica: Miu Miu black and white oversized houndstooth vest, solitaire earrings, 305.993.2300. On Eftagine: Issey Miyake pleated mulitcolor dress, available at Saks Fifth Avenue, 305.865.1100. Miu Miu solitaire necklace and earrings, 305.993.2300.
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On Janica: Prada double breasted coat and gold blouse underneath, 305.864.9111. On Eftagine: Prada black chiffon turtleneck, printed chiffon shirt and matching skirt and sandals, 305.864.9111. Oscar de la Renta earrings and brooch, 305.868.7986. Artwork by Takashi Murakami (foreground) and Yoshitomo Nara. Photographer: Pablo Costanzo Stylist: Mariela Ortega Fashion Assistant: Maria Rion Models: Janica Compte and Eftagine Fevilien Hair: Marco PeĂąa Makeup: Nanda Quero Digital Technicians: Daryl Santos, Edward Perdomo/ Oszo Lab
Special thanks to the Rubell Museum
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This exhibition is part of the Knight Art Commissions Program funded by:
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Supported in part by Swarovski. This exhibition is curated by Silvia Karman Cubiùå. The Bass is funded by the City of Miami Beach, Cultural Affairs Program and Cultural Arts Council, the Miami-Dade County Department of Cultural Affairs and the Cultural Affairs Council, the Miami-Dade County Mayor and Board of County Commissioners, and The Bass membership.
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