“Autumn leaves blaze their swan song of colors and wait for winter to wipe the slate clean.”
//TERRI GUILLEMETS
The Great Smoky Mountains, Tennessee
PHOTO BY JD ROSS
Ancient stones and sacred spaces offer tranquility and a place to reflect 10 nostalgia
A forgotten Thanksgiving, British evacuation, Civil War march, and soulful song 16
evergreen
Visit a nature center, historic castle, scenic lake, and fly fishing trail 12
Must-have essentials for your next backroad adventure 19
20 the wildflower that could save the sea
How one man’s wild British childhood and love of the ocean led to a regenerative alternative to fish oil
30 hunting partners
Carolina Marsh Tackies (page 30)
German Shorthaired Pointers (page 40)
44 the heart of community giving
Support local nonprofits this holiday season
50 there and back again
Journey through southeastern holiday traditions
Check out our fall giveaway!Page 82
conversation
Meet a traditional Appalachian broom-maker 58
creation
The lasting legacy of fruitcake 66
landscape
Sandstone formations, an emerald pool, a Cherokee legend, and a wildlife refuge 76
bulletin
Seasonal adventures for your calendar 86
portfolios
Coastal Blends 8-9
Mountain Hay 14-15
Sunrise Angler 28-29
Family Affair 42-43
Cloud Tide 48-49
Tunnel Vision 56-57
Autumn Burst 60-61
preservation
Discover a musician’s devotion to the Cradle of Forestry 62
philosophy
The origin of ‘Jingle Bells’ 72
inspiration
Small business treasures along the backroads 83
contributors
This issue’s featured writers, photographers, and artists 88
Tracking History 64-65
Cypress Glow 70-71
Grazing Glory 74-75
Plentiful Pumpkins 80-81
Mill Reflections 84-85
Christmas Town 90-91
On the cover PHOTO BY CHRISTY LANGSTON
Jeff Tucker of Vanguard Gun Dogs in Advance, North Carolina, with his dogs, Sundance Kohler Illumination (“Koko”) and Friedelsheim’s Knockout Rose (“Rose”) at an undisclosed location in rural America. *Hunters protect their spots to prevent overhunting and to ensure local residents aren’t crowded out.
Volume 8 • Fall 2025
Backroad Portfolio covers North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Southwest Virginia, and East Tennessee
Published by EPS Media LLC and Summer House Creative, Inc.
Email backroadportfolio@gmail.com for advertising, subscription, and submission info.
Nags Head, North Carolina
BRUCE D E BOER Jockey’s Ridge
Each issue of Backroad Portfolio includes planned features alongside stories that organically fall into our lineup, at just the right time and temperature for the season. For example, we peered into North Carolina’s fishing industry and discovered a clever solution one man came up with involving crops that replace fish oil sources for manufacturing Omega 3. It all starts with an unsuspecting wild meadow flower known as stone seed, or corn gromwell.
Then, a longtime reader offered to write about the loyal, athletic, and intelligent German shorthaired pointer—a skilled hunter with boundless energy and precise aim. His story blended perfectly into a planned feature about a hunting party strapped across the backs of Carolina Marsh Tacky horses riding through South Carolina longleaf pine on a quest for heritage boar and deer.
Many nonprofits face fundraising challenges due to rising costs, increased demand for services, and donor fatigue. We zoomed in on their impact and hope you’ll consider how you can help extend their reach this holiday season.
Our There and Back Again journey celebrates rural holiday traditions, cozy cabin settings, apple cider tastings, and seasonal wine pairings along the backroads from Dahlonega, Georgia, to Copperhill, Tennessee.
Discover inspiring gift ideas on our Provisions and Inspiration pages, plus a story about the time-honored holiday fruitcake. When lovingly soaked in bourbon, rum, or moonshine, this southern delicacy is worth savoring and gifting. (Yes, we share recipes!)
We also explore traditional Appalachian broommaking in Virginia, the Cradle of Forestry in North Carolina, and the unlikely origin of the song Jingle Bells in Georgia. Plus, discover memorable seasonal events across the Southeast and view our stunning fall Portfolio collection.
Turn the page and begin your backroad journey through what we feel is our best issue yet. We say it every time, because it’s true.
EDITOR + CO-CREATOR
ART DIRECTOR + CO-CREATOR
Raleigh, North Carolina
Abstract 11 blends deep blues and warm browns on canvas to create an abstract landscape. The textured surface and calming colors create a serene atmosphere inspired by the coast.
BRUCE D E BOER
Backroad secrets are etched upon ancient stones and lie within sacred spaces where visitors can experience tranquility and reflection.
QUOTE
Natural Bridge, Virginia
At Virginia’s Natural Bridge State Park, a hidden quote by J.R.R. Tolkien from Bilbo Baggins’ walking song in The Fellowship of the Ring is carved into a rock along Cedar Creek. This poetic inscription, professionally executed, celebrates adventure and complements the park’s scenic beauty. Its mysterious origins add intrigue. Park officials are unaware of who etched it, or why, making it a delightful discovery for Tolkien fans and hikers. Learn more about this hidden treasure and other reasons to visit Natural Bridge State park at dcr.virginia.gov/state-parks/blog/6-reasons-to-visit-natural-bridge-this-fall.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIACOMMONS
CHAPEL
Fort Mill, South Carolina
The Upper Room Chapel was built in 1982 as part of the Heritage USA complex and replicates Jerusalem’s Upper Room, the site of Jesus’ Last Supper. Rescued from demolition in 2010, it offers a serene space for prayer and worship. The chapel is open Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to noon; Saturdays, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.; and Sundays, 1 to 6:30 p.m. Its tranquil grounds and Walk of Faith path welcome all for reflection. Learn more at upperroomchapel.com.
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE UPPER ROOM CHAPEL’S FACEBOOK PAGE.
PETROGLYPHS
Sylva, North Carolina
Judaculla Rock is a significant Cherokee archaeological site, featuring 1,548 petroglyphs carved around 1,500 years ago linked to the legend of Judaculla, a slant-eyed giant. This soapstone boulder was quarried 3,000 years ago for the creation of bowls, and protected by the Parker family for nearly a century. It’s now preserved in a conservation easement, ensuring its cultural and historical value for future generations along the Blue Ridge Heritage Trail.
Learn more at blueridgeheritagetrail.com/explore-a-trail-ofheritage-treasures/judaculla-rock.
JUNKYARD
White, Georgia
Old Car City USA was founded in 1931 and is the world’s largest classic car junkyard, spanning 32 acres with over 4,000 vintage vehicles. Nestled in a forested landscape, the junkyard offers 6 miles of trails for car enthusiasts, nature lovers, and photographers. A unique blend of automotive history and natural beauty, Old Car City is ideal for photo shoots, music videos, and serene walks. It’s open Tuesday through Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Learn more at oldcarcityusa.com.
PHOTO COURTESY OF VISIT NC
PHOTO COURTESY OF OLD CAR CITY USA
No matter what time of year you venture out, picturesque Southeastern backroads will transport you to these evergreen destinations.
DUNWOODY NATURE CENTER
This 22-acre nonprofit oasis in Dunwoody, Georgia, inspires a love of nature through conservation and education. Free and open year-round, Dunwoody Nature Center offers lush forests and scenic trails, as well as a playground for younger visitors. Events hosted by the center include summer camps, adult programs, scout activities, beekeeping, field trips, birthday parties, and nature classes. Dedicated volunteers help maintain the park.
Dunwoody, Georgia
dunwoodynature.org
ATALAYA CASTLE
Atalaya Castle, a Moorish-inspired winter home in Murrells Inlet, South Carolina, was built in the 1930s by philanthropist Archer Huntington and his wife, sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington. Located in Huntington Beach State Park, this National Historic Landmark features 30 rooms, a central courtyard, and Anna’s ironwork. It hosts tours, weddings, and an annual arts and crafts festival blending history, art, and coastal beauty into one unforgettable experience.
Murrell’s Inlet, South Carolina atalayacastle.com
PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA COMMONS, BY COLLETTE ESHLEMAN, CIRCA 2018
PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA COMMONS, BY J. JONAH JACKALOPE
OTTER LAKE
Otter Lake at Milepost 63.1 on the Blue Ridge Parkway offers scenic views of its dam, waterfall, and surrounding forest. The 1-mile Otter Lake Loop Trail circles the lake and is buffered by dense vegetation. Hikers will experience a few steep climbs during the trek, which includes a small overlook, historic cabin ruins, and creek crossings. Access the lake by turning north on the Blue Ridge Parkway from Route 501 in Big Island, Virginia. It will be on your right just after crossing the James River. Parking is available near the dam or main lot.
Big Island, Virginia dwr.virginia.gov/waterbody/otter-lake
THE WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA FLY FISHING TRAIL
The Western North Carolina Fly Fishing Trail in Jackson County is the first of its kind in the country, showcasing fifteen prime trout fishing spots throughout the Great Smoky Mountains. Ideal for catching brook, brown, and rainbow trout, the trail encompasses open streams and small creeks. Popular areas along the trail include the Tuckasegee River, Scott Creek, and Panthertown Creek. Check out the Facebook page for updates on fly fishing reports, trail news, and more.
Jackson County, North Carolina flyfishingtrail.com and facebook.com/wncflyfishingtrail
PHOTO BY FRANCES — STOCK.ADOBE.COM
PHOTO COURTESY OF VISIT NC
BRUCE D E BOER
Cades Cove, Tennessee
Mountain
depicts a serene rural landscape at dawn, featuring hay bales and distant mountains. This artwork invites reflection and appreciation for nature’s simplicity and charm.
Hay at Dawn
Backroads transport us to the places and events that commemorate our country’s history. Here are some from Southeastern falls of the past.
THE BRITISH EVACUATION OF CHARLESTON DECEMBER 14, 1782
VIRGINIA’S FORGOTTEN THANKSGIVING DECEMBER 4, 1619
Unbeknownst to many, Berkeley Plantation in Charles City County, Virginia, hosted a thanksgiving in 1619, predating the pilgrims’ 1621 feast. English settlers gave thanks upon arriving at Harrison’s Landing.
Though earlier thanksgiving celebrations occurred in Texas, Florida, and Maine, the Berkeley’s Plantation event is considered by many historians to be the first official English thanksgiving. The pilgrims’ story overshadowed Virginia’s somber observance, but Berkeley Plantation continues to honor its history with an annual festival and a forthcoming documentary.
Berkeley Plantation, Charles City County, Virginia berkeleyplantation.com
CHARLES CITY, CHARLES CITY COUNTY, VIRGINIA; BY ALBERT S. BURNS, COURTESY OF THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
The British completed their evacuation of Charleston on December 14, 1782, ending over two years of occupation. A 400-man Continental rear guard consisting of 300 light infantry, 80 cavalry under “Light Horse” Lee, and 20 gunners, entered the city under Major General Anthony Wayne to ensure an orderly transition. Around 14,000 people departed aboard some 130 Royal Navy ships, including roughly 4,200 Loyalists and over 5,000 people of African descent—many enslaved, some freed.
One plantation that served an important role during the British occupation of Charleston is Fenwick Plantation. In 1780 during the American Revolutionary War, Fenwick Hall Plantation on Johns Island, Charleston, served as British General Sir Henry Clinton’s headquarters in 1780 during the Siege of Charleston. The plantation still exists but is privately owned and not open for public tours, but operates as a premier wedding and special events venue. Learn more at fenwickhall.com.
Charleston, South Carolina nps.gov/articles/000/british-evacuation-of-charleston.htm
1782 MAP OF CHARLES TOWN COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; ILLUSTRATED BY A. MATTHAE; LIBRARY OF CONGRESS COLLECTION
THE GREAT MARCH FROM CUMBERLAND GAP
OCTOBER 3, 1862
The Cumberland Gap covers almost 32 square miles in Tennessee, Kentucky, and Virginia. In September 1862 during the Civil War, Brig. Gen. George W. Morgan evacuated 7,000 Union troops from a besieged garrison there, marching 219 miles northwest through rugged Eastern Kentucky to the Ohio River. With rations exhausted and surrounded by Confederate forces—many of whom were from Tennessee and Kentucky—Morgan chose a mountain route, burning supplies and blocking roads to delay the opposition’s pursuit. Despite scarce water and food, and frequent skirmishes, the Union forces reached safety on October 3, having suffered only around 80 casualties.
ENGRAVING OF THE EVACUATION OF CUMBERLAND GAP COURTESY OF THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
GEORGIA ON MY MIND HITS NO. 1
NOVEMBER 14, 1960
Georgia On My Mind, written by Hoagy Carmichael and Stuart Gorrell in 1930, became a No. 1 hit for Ray Charles on November 14, 1960. Charles, who was born in Albany, Georgia, recorded the soulful track after his driver suggested it. The song, which earned two Grammys and was ranked No. 43 on Rolling Stone’s Greatest Songs list, became Georgia’s state song in 1979. Willie Nelson’s 1978 cover of the song hit No. 1 on the country chart, and he performed it at Charles’ funeral in 2004.
PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; BILLBOARD , NOVEMBER 4, 1967, ABC RECORDS
The new edition is available now!
tompol@earthlink.net
Tom Poland travels southern backroads seeking evidence of how those before us lived, worked, and survived. Each day their farms, barns, outbuildings, stores, churches, and once-essential structures succumb to time and the elements. He photographs and writes about a forgotten land so that others can know it was there. A writer, author, and photographer, his books cover the backroads, vanishing cultural ways, and natural areas at risk. He and co-author Robert Clark document what is, a land that may well become what was.
Take something you want, something you need, something to wear, and something to read on your next backroad journey.
SOMETHING YOU WANT
Ember travel Mug 2, $150-$200* ember.com
The Ember Travel Mug 2, a 12-ounce smart heated travel mug, maintains your drink at a precise temperature (between 120 and 145 degrees) for up to three hours. With Apple’s Find My app control and a leak-proof, dishwasher-safe lid, it’s perfect for on-the-go backroad travelers. *Prices range across vendors
SOMETHING YOU NEED
Gonex Compression Packing Cubes, starting at $28.49 gonexsport.com
Gonex compression packing cubes maximize luggage space with a doublezipper system, compressing clothes by expelling air. Made of durable, water-repellent nylon, these cubes come in various sets, sizes, and colors to decoratively and compactly organize your travel essentials.
SOMETHING TO WEAR
Tom Beckbe Men’s Logan Bomber Jacket, $295 tombeckbe.com
The men’s Logan Bomber Jacket blends vintage style with modern 4-ounce polytwill, waterproof coating, and 75 grams per square meter of high-performance wool insulation. This stylishly functional jacket also features a classic fit and ribbed cuffs.
SOMETHING TO READ
Road Trip USA
by Jamie Jensen, $29.99 roadtripusa.com/books/road-trip-usa
Tom Becke Women’s Camden Quilted
$299 tombeckbe.com
The Women’s Camden Quilted Jacket offers stylish warmth with a windproof, water-resistant polyester shell, 100 grams per square meter of Thermore polyfill, and a tailored fit. Slimming and functional, it also features an antique brass zipper and a corduroy-lined collar.
The tenth edition of Road Trip USA guides you through eleven iconic American routes, offering mile-by-mile highlights, over 125 maps, full-color photos, and expert tips for an unforgettable two-lane highway adventure across the country. The book also includes a fold-out map.
Jacket,
BY ANDREW HEBARD
the wildflower that could save the sea
How one man’s wild British childhood and love of the ocean led to a regenerative alternative to fish oil
On April 1, 2002, my wife, our two daughters, Grizwold—our barking mad German Shorthaired Pointer—and I ‘landed’ in North Carolina from the Southeast of England.
We chose North Carolina because of its diverse and unrivalled access to nature—from the Blue Ridge Mountains to the Outer Banks—and its rich, multicultural society embracing science, arts, history, and technology.
We weren’t on a magnificent wooden sailboat like the pilgrims before us, but on an aging US Airways Boeing 737. Yet it seemed a fitting place to put down roots and build a business that combines agriculture, health and wellness, and ocean abundance. It became the birthplace of Ahiflower®, and I’m honored to share part of the story.
Growing up in the UK
Feral could best describe much of my childhood growing up in the UK. Bunking off school to go fishing or hunting, or just playing on farms and building camps in the woods; my maverick ways were a source of great stress to my parents—mostly my mum. “Could do better” was pretty much all teachers said in my annual school report.
Luckily for me, I was born with a profound connectivity to, and real eye for, nature. To this day, the draw of the outdoors is as instinctual and imperative as ever. My grandmother was a florist and taught me about the beauty and diversity of the plant kingdom, and my seemingly ancient, chuntering, and bald neighbor Arthur Smith became my teacher of all things about British nature. From identifying bird songs and spotting the marbled brown trout on a gravel stream bed that nobody else could see, to crafting walking sticks and catapults from the most perfect of hazel bushes, or using ferrets to catch rabbits and growing the best vegetables for my family, childhood was as simple as it was exciting.
Today, I guess, that might be called “preparing to be a prepper,” but my childhood life wasn’t the consequence of conspiracy theories or prophesies of doom. It was just wholesome fun—it’s what we did. We didn’t have money, but we ate really, really well—fresh, homegrown vegetables, locally picked and canned fruit, wild-caught fish and meat, all prepared with time, simplicity and love. It was soul food.
PRESERVED FOODS FRESH FROM THE FARM
Seeds of discovery
My college calling was always going to be agriculture or marine biology, but because the seas around the UK are mostly cold and dark, and because I’m not a great swimmer, I went farming—milking cows, lambing sheep, and growing crops. School never really agreed with me, and I’m pretty confident the feeling was entirely mutual, but I thrived in a college setting where we learned by doing, not by rote. Where creative, critical thinking was encouraged, and where I stumbled across the invaluable importance of learning to ask good questions—a life skill that can take you anywhere and allow you to hold a conversation with anyone, from blue collar to royalty.
After graduating and shimmying up the corporate pole as quickly as possible, I was stunned and suffered from imposter syndrome when I was appointed managing director of a small UK flower and vegetable planting seed company that was first established in the UK in 1793. For perspective, that’s the year when President George Washington laid the cornerstone of the capitol building in D.C., and, during the French Revolution, when the French thought King Louis XVI’s head and body would be better separated.
Needless to say, I was bristling with excitement at all the possibilities that lay ahead.
Joining a new company and being given a relatively blank sheet, my team set about some strategic planning and creative thinking, and we focused on the medicinal or industrial applications that some of the flower seeds had, zoning in on those that produced oils, most crucial oils with essential or unusual fatty acids. Our line up included plants like evening primrose and borage that are now common in just about every dietary supplement store globally for their skin and hormonal health benefits; and meadowfoam, which produces a luxuriant moisturizing oil found in many high-end skin care products.
And, it is where I met my second teacher—this time for all things biochemical: Keith Coupland, who amongst other things, was the coinventor of Lorenzo’s Oil and was as keen on fishing as I was. (Although, in all fisherman’s honesty, nobody is really as keen a fisherman as me. I’ll stare at fish in puddles for the slightest chance of a bite.)
Gifted with a brain the size of a small planet, Keith has a creativity and intuition for combining science and nature, and it was his words to me nearly 30 years ago, “You better find a plant-based alternative to fish oil,” that really got me thinking. It also become a career-long quest (some might say folly), to leave a lasting legacy in what I believe can best be described as regeneration.
PHOTO, ABOVE: ANDREW HEBARD FISHING IN SOUTHPORT, NORTH CAROLINA
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ANDREW HEBARD
The omega 3 conundrum
Why a plant alternative to fish oil? Over the past four decades, fish oil, aka the omega-3 industry, has gone from virtually zero to over $5 billion annually, with large, industrial fishing fleets taking millions of tons of small oily fish (for example anchovies, sardines, menhaden, and, more recently, krill) from the oceans to keep pace with demand.
Balancing omega-3 demand with sustainability concerns and the required return on investment that these fishing fleets demand is a bit of a dance, and not the most elegant of dances. Unfortunately most of the dances resemble greenwashing. The simple reality is that humans have now replaced whales, dolphins, tuna, seabirds, and other animals to become the insatiable apex predator of these small creatures; and where we win, others must lose.
I had to be force-fed cod liver oil as a tot. Not because it had omega-3s, but because it was good for me. We have since learned that every cell in our bodies contains omega-3, which regulates, influences, or manages inflammation and, in turn, impacts our cardiovascular, gut, immune, joint, mental, hormonal, and skin health. We’ve also learned that for optimal health and vitality—to look well, feel well, and move well—we should consume similar amounts of omega-3s as their close relative, omega-6.
Both omega-3 and 6 are essential, and we must obtain them from our diets because our bodies can’t make them.
The problem is that our food chain is now inundated with industrial seed oils like soybean, corn, and canola that have an abundance of omega-6 and scant, if any, omega-3, such that most of us consume 20 to 40 times more omega-6s than 3s. Generally speaking, omega-6s are proinflammatory and 3s are anti-inflammatory, hence, why a balanced intake is recommended.
Keith’s words of wisdom prompt this question: Where and how can humans possibly get enough omega-3s to meet demand and incorporate them into our diets? Our oceans are tapped out and taking fish oil (or cod liver oil) isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. It seems like the perfect conundrum for the “MAHA” movement to tackle.
Stumbling across a wildflower
My team started looking for an alternative fish oil plant decades ago, and whilst there are a handful out there, an equally big challenge was finding one that can be cultivated profitably by farmers, has a very light environmental footprint, can be processed using traditional methods and, most importantly, doesn’t taste or smell like fish oil. In an absolutely perfect world, this alternative fish oil plant would add to farm biodiversity, provide a habitat for pollinators, improve topsoil, and be profitable for farmers.
Whether by luck, planetary alignment, or divine intervention, we literally stumbled across the solution: a wild meadow flower colloquially known as stone seed or corn gromwell, and botanically known as Buglossoides arvensis. This flower produces small seeds with more omega-3 than any other plant, fish, or algal source found in nature. The seeds can be pressed, just like olives, and the oil is suitable for culinary use, beverages, smoothies and, of course, supplements for humans, dogs, and horses—all supported by science for looking well, moving well, and feeling well. The oil also tastes pretty much like other healthy seed oils: nutty, natural, and rich. Not fishy.
Most of what I learned at agricultural college is either outdated or of little relevance today, other than one golden rule: It’s best to reap more than you sow. As part of our endeavors to bring this new alternative fish oil plant to commerce, we planted 20 pounds per acre and harvested 10 pounds—not a compelling business model. But through the efforts of some brilliant and adventurous farmers who persevered with agronomic studies and used regenerative agriculture, we are now yielding up to 2,000 pounds per acre annually, which produces as much omega rich oil as 500,000 menhaden and it is marketed globally under the tradename of Ahiflower®.
Regeneration in practice
Our vision is to use Ahiflower as a model of how we can use regenerative farming to produce ingredients that are regenerative to our health and that, in turn, regenerate our oceans. We just recently launched regenerative omegas to demonstrate this.
Each acre cultivated with Ahiflower uses fewer synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides than just about any alternative crop, produces a year’s supply of omega-3 oil for over 250 people, and reduces the need to harvest these small wild fish that are undoubtedly one of the most essential links in the global food web.
Living in North Carolina, you only have to visit the Atlantic coastal region to see firsthand how vital menhaden are to the area’s vibrancy and economic wellbeing, the diverse and amazing marine life that rely on them, and the recreational and commercial anglers whose livelihoods are dependent upon their abundance. Similar patterns exist around the world—the Peruvians are dependent on the anchoveta, the Mediterranean people on the sardinas, and the Brits on the herring and sandeels. It’s a cliché, but we are undeniably connected to the ocean’s health and vitality.
These small fish species share two things in common: They are part of just a handful of creatures that can consume phytoplankton and algae, and turn it into protein and omega-3 rich oil for Earth’s entire food chain; and they are hunted in every corner of every ocean as a seemingly cheap, endless and sustainable source of food and fertilizer. However, the truth remains, where humans take, other species must lose. Sir David Attenborough, who recently celebrated his 99th birthday, said “I now understand the most important place on earth is not on land, but at sea.” I have to agree.
North Carolina Coast
A surfcaster gets an early start as the sun rises.
TOM RAMSEY
“There’s nothing so good for the inside of a man as the outside of a horse.”
—RONALD REAGAN
A HORSE FOR ALL SEASONS
BY TOM POLAND
The steadfast Carolina Marsh Tacky holds a unique place in South Carolina’s heritage and in the hearts of the riders who value them as the perfect hunting partners.
DECEMBER IN THE LOWCOUNTRY
It’s a cold, blustery December morning. Three horsemen lean into a biting wind at renowned Oaklawn Plantation. With hollowed horns used to signal the other members of the hunting party strapped across their backs, they ride through widely-spaced stands of fire-blackened longleaf pine, the horses beneath them near invisible in the thick underbrush and tall grass that has sprung up since the last time these woods burned. Their quest? Heritage and deer. Trailing a pack of eager dogs, the trio periodically drops out of the view of the standers placed strategically along the edges of the block of woods, only to emerge further downrange. Quietly weaving in and out of the thick underbrush, their movements take on an almost dreamlike quality.
Then suddenly, a whitetail breaks from cover. Whoops, hollers, and cracking whips shatter the morning’s calm. A cinematic blur of movement swirls through the trees. The horsemen rally the dogs to drive the deer toward standers and soon a salvo of shots reaps a deer.
A second drive gains three more deer, but one wounded buck flees, running hard toward a flooded cornfield managed for waterfowl, with the dogs in close pursuit. Two blows on the horn light a fire under the horsemen. Brothers Ed and Rawlins Lowndes and David Grant ride after the hounds in pursuit.
Rawlins Lowndes, commanding the hounds, rides Grant’s Marsh Tacky, “Sage,” and Grant rides “DP.” Ed Lowndes rides his Tacky, “Laboka,” captured from a wild herd on Hilton Head Island. They have the right horse for the task at hand. For a solid week before the hunt, heavy rains have drenched the Lowcountry. The land surrounding the cornfield this morning is a muddy, obstacle-filled morass. Saplings, low-hanging limbs, tangled vines, armadillo holes, bushhog amputees—small-tree stubble—and thick, tall grass make the going rough for any horse. The Carolina Marsh Tacky, though, is not any horse.
OPPOSITE PAGE: A CAROLINA MARSH TACKY GRAZES AT OAKLAWN PLANTATION IN SOUTH CAROLINA’S LOWCOUNTRY.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT CLARK
The deer plunges into the flooded field with hounds in hot pursuit, and Rawlins Lowndes, carrying a shotgun borrowed from one of the standers, pounds around the edge of the dike surrounding the field, zig-zagging between small trees and dodging low-hanging limbs. He urges Sage up the embankment, and up he goes— ten, maybe fifteen feet straight up—through thick grass studded with perilous holes.
Lowndes and Sage reach the far bank just ahead of the deer. Is a clean shot possible? On top, the dike is a narrow sliver, and it’s a long way down to the bone-chilling water. Lowndes weighs his options as the deer turns back, narrowly flanking the dogs. By this time, David Grant and DP have caught up, and Rawlins hands off the shotgun to Grant, who gallops off, trying once again to cut off the deer’s escape route.
Back home in the Pee Dee, Grant loves “ripping”—using the horses to flush deer and shooting them from the saddle. But not just any horse will do. It takes a very special horse like DP, one not easily spooked and calm enough to let his rider fire with accuracy. As the deer catapults up the dike, Grant closes in. BAM!
DP doesn’t even flinch.
A HORSE FOR A KINGDOM
Lowcountry hunting on horseback resonates with tradition, and that agile breed, the Carolina Marsh Tacky, boasts an enduring legacy as well. “Tacky” comes from an English word meaning “common” or “cheap.” Hogwash. A small band of men (and women), among them David Grant and Ed and Rawlins Lowndes, knows the horse is worth a king’s ransom. They hunt deer and wild hogs as men before them did, from horseback, and they fully intend to keep hunting atop the Carolina Marsh Tacky, a South Carolina tradition.
The Lowndes family has hunted on horseback for five generations. Grant owns and operates Carolina Marsh Tacky Outfitters near Darlington and breeds tackies. He brought three of his horses to a December hunt at Oaklawn, meaning something like 147 Marsh Tackies were elsewhere that day. The Carolina Marsh Tacky Outdoors estimates that a little over 300 pure Marsh Tackies exist.
ABOVE: AS SURE-FOOTED AND NIMBLE AS THEY ARE DETERMINED, MARSH TACKIES TAKE THEIR RIDERS THROUGH VARYING TERRAIN, WET OR DRY.
OPPOSITE PAGE: TACKY RIDERS ADVANCE THROUGH THE GREAT PEE DEE RIVER. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT CLARK
Somewhere over the airwaves, an anthem plays for the Marsh Tacky: Procul Harum’s “Conquistador.” The song fits. As early as the 1500s, Spanish ships anchored along South Carolina’s coast. Their cargo included measles, small pox and chicken pox, but it also included fine-boned horses, a measure of absolution. The Spaniard’s colonies failed, and the would-be colonists left their horses to fend for themselves near Myrtle Beach and Port Royal. “Conquistador your stallion stands in need of company,” goes the song.
Company it found.
In the 1600s, stunned English explorers, mouths agape, beheld Cherokee and Chickasaw Indians riding small, rugged horses. Feral Marsh Tackies sought refuge in Lowcountry marshes, where they were captured and domesticated, first by native people, then by European settlers and African slaves. The even-tempered horse made a good ride for children. The Gullah tilled their fields and gardens using tacky power. During World War II, beach patrols seeking Nazi U-boats rode Marsh Tackies. Had spies slipped ashore, men upon Marsh Tackies would have been the first line of defense. No surprise there. The horse had already ridden into the history books courtesy of an earlier war.
It’s believed that the legendary Swamp Fox, Francis Marion, led his irregulars into guerrillalike forays on the sturdy-yet-nimble horses. Marsh Tackies would have easily outflanked the British Army’s larger European breeds in the woods and swamps of the South Carolina “backcountry.” Today the horses are used to pursue a quarry that’s a bit of a guerrilla fighter itself—wild Pee Dee hogs.
HUNTING IN THE PEE DEE
It’s a Saturday, and today’s band of equestrians and hunters includes the Lowndes brothers, Grant, Richard Perdue, Bryan Stanton, Moultrie Helms, and guide Troy Byrd. Other participants in the hunt include Tacky devotee Wylie Bell, assistant director of marketing communication at Richmond Community College, and equine photographer Dwain Snyder.
A day that began in heavy fog has turned hot enough to melt pig iron in Roblyn’s Neck, a 14,000-acre tract along the Great Pee Dee River. By now, wild hogs with any sense have retired to the most unpleasant pieces of real estate possible, deep in the shade of thick scrub and briar thickets. The sun rains down, and thundering down a lane scraped from the ancient sea bottom, the horses kick up contrails that hang in the air. Time suspends as well—it looks like a scene from the wild Wild West.
“No hog rippin’ today,” says Grant, “Ripping” was coined from the sound an old buck makes when you jump him out of the bed. “Rippin’ deer,” Grant adds, is a “Lowcountry art.“
“In the Lowcountry you can find tracts that haven’t been turned into one big cut-down and you can get close to the deer. In my area I still ride cut-downs. I have chaps I made for my horses to keep the briars from cutting too bad.”
According to Grant, marsh tackies are the best horses he’s found for rippin’. “They take the gunfire, briars, and blood better than most,” he says. “I will ride a cutdown with the wind coming to me and pick my way from spot to spot where I think a deer will be bedded. When he rips up, you better be quick and you better have a good horse.”
But today is about hogs, and as the day heats up, so does the action. The land echoes with yelps, yowls, and yaps of Pee Dee curs, a dog Grant describes as the “noble Pee Dee game dog.”
“When you hunt hogs,” says Grant, “you need dogs that can think—‘Plenty of signs, but no hogs. Where are they?’ You need a dog that can work an area and find a hog bedded down in a blowdown or more often in the middle of a hellhole cutdown. It’s tough!”
PHOTOGRAPHY
The music dog hunters love sounds—a howling bay that signals the dogs have cornered their quarry. That epic do-or-die last stand unfolds. Somewhere afar a banshee-like squeal makes the hair stand on the back of your neck. Riding point, Grant and company gallop off, puffs of smoke bursting from unshod hooves.
“Most of the time,” said Grant, “I ride point. I get the honor of being the first to bust up briars, jump a ditch, cross or swim a slough, or dodge snakes.” A good point horse, he adds, “will go to the bay on its own when it hears the dogs.”
Closer to the dogs, bedlam—pig squeals and chaotic dog vocals. Grant plunges through head-high brambles, briars, and undergrowth clawing his way to the action. There’s Bill, diminutive leader of the curs, nipping at a 200-pound sow.
Grant’s adamant about protecting his dogs. He hunts with a GPS tracking system that gets him to the bay quicker than the old days. “I often ride right into a fight if my dogs are getting cut-up from a bad hog.” Grant says he has a “pact” with his Pee Dee curs. “If they have the grit to hunt all day, fight everything a Pee Dee river bottom can throw at them, run a hog through Hell and back, and fight to the death if need be, I will do whatever it takes to get to them.” And for that task, there is no equal to the Marsh Tacky.
ROBERT CLARK
LITTLE BULLDOZERS
Wylie Bell first learned about the Marsh Tacky when she interviewed Grant about the Hilton Head Marsh Tacky Beach Run. She ended up riding one of Grant’s tackies at Hilton Head. “The first thing I noticed,” she said, “was how easily Tackies adapt to new situations. Here were these five-year-old horses thrown into a thousand people, racing horses next to a rolling ocean. And they handled it amazingly well. People were crowding around them all day, and no one got kicked or bitten or run over by a spooked horse.”
Later, Bell discovered the Marsh Tacky’s hardy character. “My first hog hunt opened my eyes to how tough a breed the Marsh Tacky is. I’m always careful to watch for fallen limbs, holes, uneven terrain, muddy spots—anything that could cause a horse to trip. On a hog hunt, you run full speed through mud and muck and cutdowns with stumps, holes, logs, and briars. The horses never miss a beat. They don’t panic when they get wrapped up in briars or when they’re mired in a bog up to their chest. Like little bulldozers, they push through whatever you ask them too.”
Grant tells his hunting partners, “Let’s hunt back to the truck.” It’s an inside joke. Too many times they’ve hunted all day with no luck. But sometimes when he says, “Let’s hunt back to the truck,” that’s when they catch hogs. But no such luck today. It’s hot and the curs pant heavily, winded. The hunt ends. It’s time to load up the tackies, those noble survivors.
Pursuing deer in December, wild hogs in August, tilling gardens come spring, racing at Hilton Head, defeating the British, patrolling for German submarines and proving to be an anchor for tradition, the marsh tacky does it all. What else can be said about this horse for all seasons as a horse pure and simple? Bell hits the nail on the head.
“The Marsh Tacky is simply better put together to handle riding in the woods and swamps. They’re smaller and more agile, their hide is thicker, and they have good, solid hooves. Marsh Tackies are not big horses, but they ride big. They have huge hearts and sharp minds, and for people who own them, they’ll be that horse of a lifetime.”
THE EYES OF LABOKA
Ed Lowndes on Lowcountry Deer Hunting
I ride into the woods along deer trails looking for a deer’s hiding places. My Tacky, Laboka, will usually see deer lying in hiding. When Laboka sees one, he stops and stares into its eyes. I focus my eyes into the thicket, fallen tree, or cane patch and spot the deer. If the deer is suitable to pursue, I “jump” it, and the chase unfolds.
The deer will run its course through old-growth hardwoods into Carolina Bays. The deer knows it can escape into the water and thick marsh grass where hounds can’t follow. The deer’s speed and wits usually let it escape through the standers. I ride Laboka to the perimeter to stop the hounds’ pursuit. While on my horse, I loudly crack my whip to simulate a gunshot and the hounds believe the deer has been harvested. I blow my cow horn to regroup the hounds behind Laboka who leads them into woods to look for another deer. This old style of hunting brings “fair chase” into our vocabulary.
My horse’s name, Laboka, means “the mouth” in Spanish. He’s very inquisitive and nuzzles objects he finds interesting.
OPPOSITE PAGE: YOU’LL FIND MARSH TACKIES INLAND, NOT JUST IN THE SOUTH CAROLINA SEA ISLANDS AND LOWCOUNTRY.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT CLARK
Pedigree to Prairie
How great dogs and great people make
the hunt
It feels like magic to watch a dog tear across a native grassland, nose in the air as it searches for scent, then focused and intent once it closes in on a wild bird. If you’re lucky, you might remember all the moments that have woven together to allow the dog to do the only thing it wants to do, and feel pride in the part you played to make it possible. Hunting wild birds with an exceptional dog is an unforgettable experience, and most hunters who have done it will not let that memory fade.
But what goes into those magical prairie moments? From my experience there are three factors, without which none of it would happen: genetics, training, and relationships. The dogs I work with are German shorthaired pointers, and while there are other breeds equally capable of producing in the field, I’ll let their advocates sing their praises elsewhere.
Simply put, without proven genetics you are unlikely to get a good hunting dog. An untested pedigree could mean that your dog is gun shy, isn’t all that interested in birds, or doesn’t have the stamina and conformation required to run literal marathons, day after day, without tiring. Those qualities might get you a great pet (albeit one with very high energy), but a decent hunting dog won’t be in the cards no matter how well it’s trained. Truly excellent German shorthairs (and bird dogs in general) need to have a good nose, a staunch point, the desire to work, and the ability to track game and perform a thorough field search—and all this in eager cooperation with their handler.
Make no mistake, though. Great genetics don’t automatically make your dog a powerhouse in the field. For that you’ll need not only blood, sweat, and probably some tears, but also lots of hours devoted to training. If your dog finds a bird by instinct but then flushes it before you can get close and you’re left watching both the bird and your dog disappear over the horizon, that’s not going to be a good hunt. Your dog needs to know that it must always point, be steady through wing, shot, and fall, and retrieve to hand. Excellent cooperation during this process is important and recall is also imperative—you never know when your dog might encounter a rattlesnake, porcupine, skunk, or some other dangerous situation, and you want to be certain that your dog will return to you quickly no matter the circumstance.
LINA VOM STILLWATER (“LINA”) BELONGS TO FRED RICE OF SUNDANCE GERMAN SHORTHAIRED POINTERS.
If that all sounds difficult to achieve, it is.
In my experience, the best way to learn how to train a bird dog is through your local chapter of the North American Versatile Hunting Dog Association (NAVHDA). NAVHDA has ninety-five chapters across the United States and Canada with sixteen in the Southeast, including four in North Carolina. The chapters I’ve worked with warmly welcome people of all skill levels to the bird dog community. Most NAVHDA chapters meet monthly, usually for training days when you can bring your dog to practice the critical skills they need to be successful in the field, and each chapter also hosts a NAVHDA-sanctioned hunt test twice a year, during which you can measure your dog’s progress through the organization’s Natural Ability (NA), Gun Dog (GDT), and Utility (UT) standards of testing.
Finally, I would be remiss not to highlight the importance of relationships in bird hunting. The connection you have with your dog is critical, certainly, but equally important are the friendships you form with other people who share your passion (some would say obsession) for training dogs and hunting wild birds.
When I attended my first few local NAVHDA events in North Carolina, I listened to, learned from, and ultimately became friends with people who later invited me out west. They trusted me to come with them, hunt their spots and experience the “magic” because they saw how hard I worked to be there with my dogs, and knew that I would respect the process and be grateful for it. I did, and I was. Now that I have been on twenty-five trips out west and countless hunts in North Carolina, I have some knowledge of my own and can extend the same generosity to people who have just gotten a new puppy or have an adult dog that hasn’t yet had the opportunity to head west. My daughter has even started coming with me on some hunts, and the feeling of fulfillment that brings is another kind of magic altogether.
The countless hours I’ve spent researching pedigrees, dreaming about perfect breedings, getting up before dawn to drive to a training day where I repeat drills with the dogs until I’m sure they’ve got it, only to do it one more time, are what bring me to the moment on a Montana prairie where I get to watch the dogs combine their instincts with their training to create something inexplicably greater than the sum of its parts. I’ll come back from the field at the end of that long day to rest the dogs, tell them what a good job they did, and swap hunting stories with the friends who helped me get there, and I’ll feel the unmatched pride and gratitude that I know will sustain me long past the hunt itself.
Photography by Christy Langston springriverkennel.com
Jeff Tucker Owner of Vanguard Gun Dogs vanguardgundogs.com
navhda.org
SUNDANCE KOHLER ILLUMINATION (“KOKO”) PREPARES FOR A HUNT.
CHRISTY LANGSTON
Undisclosed Location in rural America*
Jeff Tucker and his daughter, Sadie, of Vanguard Gun Dogs in Advance, North Carolina, head out to hunt with Sundance Kohler Illumination (“Koko”) and Friedelsheim’s Knockout Rose (“Rose”).
*Hunters protect their spots to prevent over-hunting and ensure local residents aren’t crowded out.
the heart of community giving Support local nonprofits this holiday season
BY ERICA DE FLAMAND
The holiday season is often a time of generosity and gratitude when many people choose to give back, not only to family and friends, but also to their communities. One of the most meaningful ways to do this is by supporting nonprofit organizations.
Nonprofits play an important role in society. They provide food to families in need, shelter for those without homes (including animals), educational programs for children, medical care for vulnerable populations, and countless other services that improve lives—the impact of which is often felt directly by people who may otherwise go without support.
This year, many nonprofits are facing significant challenges with fundraising. Rising costs, increased demand for services, and donor fatigue have made it harder for organizations to meet their goals. As a result, even programs that provide essential support to communities are at risk of being reduced or paused. Every bit of help—whether through time, resources, or donations—has a real impact and can make a critical difference for those they serve.
Giving to nonprofits at the end of the year is also practical and beneficial for donors, as it often provides tax benefits. As you plan for your own holiday giving, it is important to make sure your donation goes to an ethical and trustworthy organization. Here are a few things to look for:
• Transparency: An ethical nonprofit openly shares how donations are used. They publish annual impact reports and financial statements that explain where donor dollars go.
• Accountability: Look for organizations governed by a board of directors, guided by clear policies, and pursuing credentials in their field. This ensures decisions are made responsibly and with the safety of others in mind.
• Mission Focus: The nonprofit should have a clear mission statement and stay true to it, rather than spreading resources too thin or chasing trends.
• Reputation: Check independent sources such as Charity Navigator, GuideStar/ Candid, or community feedback to see how the organization is rated and perceived.
Supporting nonprofits during the holidays is more than just writing a check—it’s a way to strengthen communities and make a lasting difference in people’s lives. By giving thoughtfully and choosing ethical organizations, your generosity can help bring hope and joy to others at a time when it is needed most.
Ways to Support Nonprofits Beyond Money
If you don’t have extra funds to give this season, you can still make a meaningful difference. Nonprofits thrive not only on donations but also on the time, skills, and voices of their supporters. Here are some impactful ways you can help without opening your wallet:
• Volunteer your time: Many nonprofits rely on volunteers to help run events, organize donations, mentor participants, or assist with administrative work. Even a few hours can make a big impact.
• Donate goods or services: Instead of money, consider giving items nonprofits need. You can also donate professional skills like graphic design, marketing, or legal support. Ask for an organization’s wish list!
• Share their message: Use your social media or community connections to amplify a nonprofit’s mission. A simple share, tag, or conversation can reach someone who is able to give or get involved.
• Attend events: Showing up matters. By attending a fundraiser, educational program, or community event, you’re helping to build a sense of connection around the nonprofit’s mission.
• Join a board or committee: Nonprofits need thoughtful leadership. If you have expertise in areas like finance, strategy, or communications, consider serving in an advisory role to guide the organization forward.
• Offer space or resources: If you have access to meeting space, vehicles, equipment, or office supplies, offering them can save nonprofits money and help them serve more people directly.
• Ask what they need: The best way to help a nonprofit is to ask what their biggest need is from the list above.
“It’s not what you gather, but what you scatter that tells what kind of life you have lived.”
—HELEN WALTON
To help guide your end-of-year and holiday giving, here’s a short list of hardworking, registered 501c3 nonprofits in each southeastern state traveled by Backroad Portfolio.
aNorth Carolina
Designed ForJoy | designedforjoy.com
Provides women in crisis stability through immediate employment and support.
Equuvation | equuvation.org
Provides no-cost nature-based therapeutic services for those living with a disability and/or navigating trauma.
Cancer for College | cancerforcollege.org
Provides college scholarships, medical debt relief, and educational experiences for cancer survivors.
Triad Restorative Justice | triadrj.org
Empowers people through restorative practices, advocacy, and community building to minimize further harm.
aSouth Carolina
Bridged | bridgedsc.org
Supports parents navigating disability; and works to foster empathy, awareness, and inclusion among students.
Let There Be Mom | lettherebemom.org
Dedicated to serving local moms and dads who are battling a life-threatening illness.
Village Engage | villageengage.com
Works to build a more just and compassionate Greenville through connecting people and programs.
Triune Mercy Center | triunemercy.org
Triune Mercy Center’s Greenville Homeless Alliance ignites change to address homelessness in Greenville County.
aGeorgia
The Sheltering Arms | shelteringarmsforkids.com
Works to transform the lives of children and their families through high-quality, affordable, early childhood education.
LifeLine Animal Project | lifelineanimal.org
Helps over 45,000 pets each year through low-cost spay and neuter services, affordable vet care, and pet retention services.
Park Pride | parkpride.org
Helps communities enhance parks and greenspace through advocacy, volunteerism, and capital improvements.
Serves as a boots-on-the-ground organization for healthy kids, families, and communities.
aTennessee
charity: water | charitywater.org
Works to bring clean and safe drinking water to every person on the planet, with global headquarters in Tennessee.
Soles4Souls | soles4souls.org
Turns unwanted shoes/clothing into opportunity—providing relief and creating jobs to break the cycle of poverty.
Jordan Thomas Foundation | jordanthomasfoundation.org
Helps kids get the prostheses they need to lead healthy and active lives.
Sharebuilt Inc. | sharebuilt.org
Connects nonprofit design and construction needs with professionals who can help.
aVirginia
Blue Ridge Area Food Bank, Inc. | brafb.org
A community food bank that is the largest hunger relief organization in central and western Virginia.
Navy SEAL Foundation | navysealfoundation.org
Provides critical support for the warriors, veterans, and families of Naval Special Warfare (NSW)
HumanKind | humankind.org
Strengthens individuals, families, and communities through care, counseling, and education.
Hooves and Paws | hoovesandpaws.org
Provides a safe haven for unwanted, abused, and homeless animals, including adoption and sanctuary efforts.
aAlso...
It’s been a year since Hurricane Helene devastated our region, yet many communities are still struggling to rebuild. Families remain displaced, businesses recover slowly, and critical infrastructure needs repair. The best way to help is by supporting nonprofits working daily on the ground. In addition to the local groups above, the organizations listed below continue serving this region and responding to other disasters nationwide. Please consider supporting them this holiday season.
Appalachia Service Project, Inc. | asphome.org
BeLoved Asheville | belovedasheville.org
Carolina Emergency Response Team | carolinacert.com
Cajun Navy 2016 | cajunnavy2016.org
Mission Mules | missionmules.org
Operation Airdrop | operationairdrop.org
Rescue Ranch | rescueranch.com
Newfound Gap, Tennessee
Clouds roll in across the blue ridges of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
PHOTO
JAMIE & JUDY WILD /
Dahlonega, Georgia
PHOTO COURTESY OF FACEBOOK
CREATED BY THE BACKROAD PORTFOLIO STAFF
Backroads transport us to the places in between. This regularly occurring feature takes you to and from two southeastern destinations via winding rural roads lined with charming small towns, captivating landscapes, historic structures and, in this particular journey, holiday events across the mountains of North Georgia, Western North Carolina, and Eastern Tennessee.
Below is a condensed rural weekend journey from Dahlonega, Georgia, to Copperhill, Tennessee, that prioritizes scenic backroads, small towns, and festive experiences with Southern Appalachian charm. Pack warm layers, a thermos for hot cider, and a camera for the festive scenery.
•Day 1: Dahlonega to Ellijay, Georgia
•Day 2: Ellijay, Georgia to Copperhill, Tennessee
•Day 3: Copperhill, Tennessee to Dahlonega, Georgia
Be sure to check websites for updated information or schedule changes.
PHOTO: DOWNTOWN DAHLONEGA, GEORGIA, LIGHTS UP AT NIGHT DURING THE CHRISTMAS HOLIDAY. PHOTO COURTESY OF DAHLONEGA’S FACEBOOK PAGE.
Dahlonega to Ellijay
DAY 1 BACKROAD ROUTE:
52 minutes; 39 miles • 3 stops
Dahlonega g Ellijay
Dahlonega’s Old Fashioned Christmas dahlonegachristmas.com
Kick off the weekend with this annual seasonal event in downtown Dahlonega that runs from November 28 to December 31 and features the Lighting of the Square, a Christmas Parade, a Candy Cane Kids Day, and holiday shopping. Enjoy Santa visits, photo ops, and festive events in a charming, historic setting. Main Street, Dahlonega, Georgia
Bourbon Street Grille
thebourbonstreetgrille.com
After exploring downtown Dahlonega, head over to Bourbon Street Grille for a meal with New Orleans flair. Enjoy Cajun and Creole dishes like gumbo, jambalaya, and blackened red snapper; a weekend brunch; a full bar with craft beers and cocktails; and a vibrant atmosphere with patio and balcony dining.
90 Public Square N., Dahlonega, Georgia
Blue Sky Cabin Rentals
blueskycabinrentals.com
Book a Friday night stay in a cozy cabin at Blue Sky Cabin Rentals. Choose from rustic or luxury cabins with up to five bedrooms featuring mountain or water views, dog-friendly options, and proximity to hiking, vineyards, and local dining.
61 Maddox Circle, Ellijay, Georgia
Ellijay to Copperhill
DAY 2 BACKROAD ROUTE:
1 hour 6 minutes; 40 miles • 4 stops Ellijay g Blue Ridge g Copperhill
Mercier Orchards
mercier-orchards.com
Start your day at Mercier Orchards, a fourth-generation family and veteran-owned farm that hosts festive holiday events in November and December. Participate in the Winter Wine Run 5K on December 6 and enjoy a “Santa on the Farm” event on December 14. Participate in cookie decorating and wreath-making workshops, and savor fresh baked pies and hot apple cider tastings, all amidst a cozy, holiday-decorated market.
8660 Blue Ridge Drive, Blue Ridge, Georgia
Downtown Blue Ridge blueridgemountains.com/events/light-up-blue-ridge
While you’re in downtown Blue Ridge, take in the holiday lights, drop a letter in Santa’s Mailbox, and explore the gingerbread village at The Arts Center. (Don’t forget to vote for your favorite.) You can also shop for handmade holiday gifts at local shops. If you happen to be there the weekend after Thanksgiving, don’t miss the Light Up Blue Ridge event and Christmas parade, which is November 28-29 this year.
Blue Ridge, Georgia
The Black Sheep blacksheepblueridge.com
Enjoy a memorable dinner at the Black Sheep Restaurant, offering refined dining under a 200-year-old oak tree, as well as the largest outdoor bar and covered patio space in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Open for dinner Tuesday through Friday and brunch on the weekends, guests also enjoy craft cocktails, local ingredients, and New Orleans jazz.
480 W. Main Street, Blue Ridge, Georgia
Treehouse Mountain treehousestennessee.com
Stay the night in a treetop getaway. Choose from one of four unique cabins at Treehouse Mountain: the Rubicon, Dreamweaver, La Paz, and Stamish Castle. Each treehouse has a distinct style, blending rustic charm with modern comforts. Guests enjoy personalized service, local knowledge, and a best-price guarantee. They’re perfect for nature lovers seeking a memorable, elevated retreat.
871 Burgertown Road, Copperhill, Tennessee
BACK AGAIN
Brasstown to Dahlonega
DAY 3 BACKROAD ROUTE:
2 hours 47 minutes; 119 miles • 3 stops Brasstown g Gainsville g Dahlonega
John C. Campbell Folk School folkschool.org
The John C. Campbell Folk School celebrates its centennial anniversary this year with various events, starting with a fall festival October 4-5. A Forge After Dark blacksmithing event and auction are scheduled for November 7-8. Visitors can also attend a Fireside Sale on December 13 accompanied by live holiday music in a festive atmosphere. The school encourages visitors to explore its campus, craft shop, and history museum year-round.
One Folk School Road, Brasstown, North Carolina
Chattahoochee National Forest fs.usda.gov/r08/chattahoochee-oconee
The Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forests offer diverse outdoor activities including camping, reservable via recreation.gov. Activities include biking, hiking, horseback riding, hunting, fishing, off-road trails, scenic drives, boating, swimming, geocaching, and educational programs. For passes and information, visit the supervisor’s office (at the address above). Check the Forest’s website or contact ranger districts for specific parking and site details.
1755 Cleveland Highway, Gainsville, Georgia
Three Sisters Vineyards threesistersvineyards.com
End your holiday weekend journey with a glass of wine at Three Sisters Vineyards, which offers handcrafted, estate-grown wines in a scenic, dog-friendly setting. Enjoy live music, holiday wine tastings, and seasonal pairings. You can also shop at the winery’s Christmas markets, which feature local crafts.
439 Vineyard Way, Dahlonega, Georgia
CRAIG ZERBE
Great Smoky Mountains, Tennessee Autumn envelopes a Great Smoky Mountain National Park Stone Bridge.
PHOTO BY CRAIG ZERBE - STOCK.ADOBE.COM
Traditional Broom Making A conversation with Erin Simons
INTRODUCTION AND INTERVIEW
BY ELIZABETH POLAND SHUGG PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF ERIN SIMONS
Erin Simons is a traditional Appalachian broom and brush maker from Wytheville, Virginia, and owner of Laurel Ridge Studios. Her brooms are created to carry on the tradition and culture of Appalachia, using found objects, fallen limbs from the woods behind her home, shed antlers, broomcorn, and twine. You can view and purchase her brooms at laurelridgestudio.com. Here’s our conversation with her.
How long have you been making handcrafted Appalachian brooms, brushes, whisks, and other accessories?
I’ve been making traditional Appalachian brooms, brushes, and whisks for three years. I create brooms that connect me to the land and the heritage of this region. Each piece is a blend of function and beauty, honoring a tradition that has been passed down through generations. I learned this craft from my mentor, John Alexander.
Can you describe the process of making a broom or whisk? How long does it take, and do you let tradition or the creative process guide your work—or both?
I let both creativity and traditional techniques guide my work. The time it takes to make a broom, brush, or whisk varies greatly depending on the level of difficulty in the design. Each broom/ brush/whisk is hand constructed and no machines or electricity are used. Also, 90% of the process of making a broom is in the prepwork before ever sitting down to make the piece.
The materials needed to make a traditional Appalachian broom are simple: a sharp knife, scissors, twine, broom corn, a handle, and a strong spindle or stick to use as a foot brake for tying the broom. The broomcorn must be sorted by size and quality, then separated by weight or amount depending on the item being made. Then the spindle or strong stick is wrapped with twine. When making a sweeper, the broomcorn must be soaked for thirty minutes to one hour in hot water to make it pliable for weaving.
Once all materials are ready, you will sit in a sturdy chair with your back straight and the wrapped spindle at your feet. The twine will then be pulled up to the belly button and the construction begins. Each piece is attached to the handle with twine and wrapped/woven tightly using tension held by your feet on the spindle. Keeping tension with your feet is very important, as this is what holds the broom/brush/whisk together.
Once complete, the piece will then be tied off using something called a “jerk string” (twine tied in a loop), the twine cut, then the broom/brush/whisk trimmed using a sharp knife and/or scissors.
What led you to meet your mentor, John Alexander?
In 2019, then an arts educator, I was invited to attend a Legacy Workshop at the Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts in Gatlinburg, Tennessee. During this week, I was immersed in “woodturning” but was able to visit the other classes to see what they were doing. One was a class taught by broom maker Mark Hendry.
I fell in love with the craft immediately, and naively thought I could come home from the week and teach myself how to make traditional Appalachian brooms. I quickly found that at the time, there was only one book in publication and very few YouTube videos or information available.
After three years of searching and asking around, a friend of mine said she knew a broom maker and that he lived close. That’s when I was introduced to John Alexander. We spoke on the phone over the course of a year and then in June of 2022, I made my first broom with him. Ever since I have been the apprentice and he has been my mentor. We were both awarded Fellowships through Mid Atlantic Arts in 2023, and then an apprenticeship through the Virginia FolkLife Program in 2024. I’m also honored to be a 2023 Central Appalachia Living Traditions Tradition Bearer Fellow and part of the 2024 Virginia Humanities Apprenticeship Program.
What does it mean to be a Central Appalachia Living Traditions Tradition Bearer Fellow?
The Birthplace of Country Music fellowships and grants program jumpstarted my business as a broom maker and helped me network and make connections in order to do living history demonstrations, as well as provide funds to offer broom making workshops to others in the hope that this tradition continues.
After completing the fellowship, John and I were awarded an apprenticeship through the Virginia FolkLife Program. I was also a part of a cohort called Uplift Makers (Appalachian Creatives Collective) in collaboration with Etsy and a nonprofit called Nest.
How has broom making changed you, personally?
Most of my work is created in an 1850s log cabin my dad built from reclaimed logs, often with my children playing nearby. After Hurricane Helene, I moved my work indoors and discovered how much I enjoy crafting as a part of our daily family life.
Through my brooms, I hope to share the joy, ingenuity, and creativity of Appalachian culture and demonstrate how simple objects can be transformed into meaningful works of art.
Autumn in North Carolina showcases a stunning tree adorned in vibrant fall colors, set against dramatic clouds. This artwork captures the essence of the autumn season, inviting viewers to appreciate nature’s transformation.
Rockin’ the Cradle of Forestry
BY TOM POLAND
Chuckand Rose Lane Leavell live among pines and hardwoods they call Charlane Woodlands, “Char” from Charles and “lane” from Rose Lane. Charlane Woodlands sits squarely in the geographic heart of Georgia.
You’ve heard Chuck Leavell’s piano and keyboard magic on the works of Eric Clapton, The Rolling Stones, John Mayer, The Black Crowes, George Harrison, The Allman Brothers Band, The Indigo Girls, Blues Traveler, Train, Montgomery-Gentry, Lee Ann Womack and many, many more. Besides being a well-established pianist/artist in the music industry, Chuck’s a published author, tree farmer, and advocate of keeping our environment healthy.
Chuck’s conservation work began in the early 1980s during a rare lull in music. He sensed that opportunity grew from Georgia soil. Trees. He began to study forestry, even studying forestry by correspondence while riding a tour bus with the Fabulous Thunderbirds. It took time, but he and Rose Lane would turn their land into a textbook tree farm.
Years later, Charlane Woodlands—an awardwinning tree farm near Macon, Georgia—earned Chuck a reputation as one of the country’s foremost conservationists. Twice Chuck has been the Outstanding Tree Farmer for Georgia,
and in l999 he and Rose Lane were both named National Outstanding Tree Farmers. The National Arbor Day Foundation, Georgia Conservancy, and many other conservation organizations recognize Chuck’s accomplishments.
Chuck decided to share his forestry knowledge and experience in books. He wrote Forever Green: The History and Hope of the American Forest because he realized the general public misunderstood forestry. People would say ‘They’re just killing all the trees—they’re cutting them all down.’
“I wanted to write about that misunderstanding and cover not only the era when there was rape and pillage of the forest, but also the period of recovery. Gifford Pinchot, Carl Schenck, a German, and Bernhard Fernow, a Prussian, led the way, along with conservationists like John Muir and, of course, Teddy Roosevelt. I wanted folks to know about the Cradle of Forestry in America in Asheville with Pinchot working for the Vanderbilts.”
The Cradle of Forestry grew from several efforts. In the early 1890s, Pinchot used the Biltmore woodlands as his personal forest management laboratory. Carl Schenck opened the country’s first school of forestry on September 1, 1898, which traces its roots to 1895 when George Vanderbilt hired Schenck to manage the woodland properties on Biltmore.
ABOVE LEFT: THE RUSTIC CAMPUS OF THE BILTMORE FOREST SCHOOL REMAINS IN PISGAH NATIONAL FOREST.
In 1968, the federal government would establish the Cradle of Forestry on the site of Schenck’s school to commemorate the beginning of forestry education and conservation in the United States.
From the ashes of the worst forest fire in American history rose a novel concept: the conservation of public lands. On August 20, 1910, winds whipped through the drought-stricken national forests in Washington, Idaho, and Montana. Minor fires turned into a catastrophic conflagration. Forest rangers directed some ten thousand men from all walks of life to fight an unfightable fire. The fire prompted President Roosevelt and Pinchot, the first chief of the U.S. Forest Service, to view public lands as national treasures, possessions of every citizen.
Chuck wanted people to grasp the significance of this accomplishment. “The book is not so much about the wildfire itself,” he said, “as it is the struggles and triumphs of the conservationist movement.”
Because Chuck believes it’s vital to engage young people about forestry he wrote a children’s book. “The Tree Farmer is about a grandson who visits his grandfather’s tree farm for the first time. The grandfather shows him what he does as a steward of the forest.”
Chuck said his book, Growing a Better America, “arose from the concern that we have 340 million people in our country now, and that’s a lot of pressure on our natural resources. How do we deal with that and how do we go forward and continue to see the growth in the population and not do too much damage to the land? That’s the book’s theme.”
Chuck said, he “believes there’s a deep spiritual nourishment in living somewhere where every tree is taller than every building, rather than the other way around.” Chuck and Rose Lane embrace the woods that reach for the sky. The circa 1850 farmhouse they live in, The Home Place, consists of pine harvested, in part, from their land. Managing their woodlands as sustainable forestland and as a hunting preserve has been a labor of love for them both. When Chuck’s not touring with the Rolling Stones and performing with other artists, he finds balance in Charlane Woodlands.
“There’s a great quote that I like to use that came from Ralph Waldo Emerson: ‘In the woods, we return to reason and faith.’ When I’m walking through our forest, it’s like going to church. There’s a great feeling of spirituality and being close to nature. It’s soothing and refreshing and renewing. I know that’s true for me.”
It’s true for you, too. Wherever you live, make walking in woods part of your life. Give thanks for the all the good things the Cradle of Forestry has brought into your life.
ABOVE LEFT: HIKERS CAN TAKE A PAVED WALKING TRAIL THROUGH THIS TUNNEL IN THE CRADLE OF FORESTRY.
PHOTO COURTESY OF VISIT NC
ABOVE RIGHT: CHUCK LEAVELL HUNTS WITH HIS ENGLISH POINTER IN CHARLANE WOODLANDS..
PHOTO BY TOM POLAND
A
Cradle of Forestry
1914 train rests on display near the Forest Festival Trail in the Cradle of Forestry.
The Lasting Legacy of Fruitcake
BY PAT BRANNING
If you’ve ever attended a Southern gathering in December, you know that fruitcake will be present—whether it’s eagerly anticipated or politely endured. There it sits, resting proudly on a beautiful pedestal plate in the center of the table, right next to the deviled eggs and pecan pie, as though it were the guest of honor. Unmistakable, unchallenged—its place on the table is as secure as tradition itself.
Fruitcakes have a way of inspiring strong reactions. Guests may glance nervously at it, exchanging whispers and casting sidelong glances, as if unsure whether to approach it or simply admire it from a distance. “Well, bless its heart, it’s homemade,” Aunt Hilda would say, her tone filled with the kindness that only a Southern matriarch could muster, trying her best to put a polished spin on a cake that might double as a doorstop. But Southern hospitality knows no bounds. You don’t have to love it, but you will partake. So, you accept a tentative slice, chew slowly, nod thoughtfully, and with the politeness that only Southerners can perfect, you say, “Mmm, that’s real nice. Y’all make this yourselves?”
Most fruitcakes are lovingly soaked in bourbon, rum, or moonshine, transforming them into what we consider a true Southern delicacy. We like our fruitcakes like we like our friends—wild, unpredictable, and always a little strong.
Defending fruitcake is a Southern sport in itself. “It’s an acquired taste,” we insist, as if that somehow elevates the experience to one of refined sophistication. But in truth, it’s not so much about the flavor as it is about the tradition—the deep-rooted heritage that accompanies each slice. Fruitcake is part of the Southern Christmas charm: quirky, bold, and, in its way, timeless. The joy isn’t found in the cake itself, but in the stories it holds, the memories it evokes, and the love it represents.
Of course, those who don’t appreciate fruitcake often associate it with the mass-produced, commercially-made variety—laden with poor-quality glacéed fruits and devoid of character. But true fruitcake, lovingly crafted with care and tradition, is something entirely different. It’s the only food durable enough to become a family heirloom, passed down through generations, each recipe a link in a long chain of culinary history.
Perhaps you’ve never had a homemade fruitcake, made with the finest glacéed fruits, rich organic farm-raised eggs, and Irish butter, generously laced with rum, bourbon, or sherry. Such a fruitcake has the power to convert even the most hardened fruitcake skeptic. I was won over years ago after reading Chef Roland Mesnier’s book, A Sweet World of White House Desserts.
As the pastry chef for five U.S. Presidents, he created cakes so breathtakingly delicious that their legacy continues to inspire chefs worldwide.
“The sooner fruitcakes are made, the better they will taste,” Mesnier writes. “It is almost impossible to age a fruitcake too long. They’re even better the second year.” He goes on to explain that you don’t need special pans to bake a fruitcake. It can be prepared in everything from round cake tins and loaf pans to coffee cans or even frozen orange-juice containers. But the key to fruitcake’s success is in its storage.
“Fruitcakes should be stored in a cool place, but not the refrigerator,” Mesnier advises. “Cover them with cheesecloth soaked in spirits and keep them in tightly covered containers or well-wrapped in aluminum foil. Periodically, check the cakes and remoisten the cheesecloth if it has dried out. Store them in a tin or foil until a week before serving, then rewrap and sprinkle with more spirits.”
Fruitcake, with all its bold and boozy glory, will forever remain a Southern staple—much more than just a dessert. It’s a symbol of tradition, heritage, and hospitality that is unyielding and steadfast. For those who embrace it, fruitcake is a piece of history, a memory wrapped in rich flavors and spiced sweetness, destined to be enjoyed for many Christmases to come.
So, the next time you’re at a Southern table, take a moment to appreciate that humble slice of fruitcake. It may not win any beauty contests, but it will forever hold a place in the heart of Southern tradition, where boldness and love collide in the most unexpected ways.
Turn the page for a delightful, festive fruitcake recipe that’s as rich in tradition as it is in flavor.
White House Fruitcake
By Pastry Chef Roland Mesnier Yield: 2 Loaf Cakes
Ingredients for the Fruit Mixture
1 15-ounce package of raisins
2 cups of golden raisins
1 cup of currants
10 ounces of mixed candied fruits
6 ounces of glazed pears, peaches, apricots, figs, and dates, cut up
1 cup of candied pineapple
1 cup of chopped pecans
4 ounces of slivered almonds
½ cup bourbon or port
¼ cup of brandy
Ingredients for the Cake Batter
½ pound of butter, softened
¾ cup of firmly packed brown sugar
¼ cup of granulated sugar
2 tablespoons of honey
1½ cups of sifted all-purpose flour
Grated rind of 2 lemons
¼ teaspoon of almond extract
¼ teaspoon of vanilla extract
5 large eggs
1 cup of sifted cake flour
½ teaspoon of salt
¼ teaspoon of baking powder
¼ teaspoon of ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon of cinnamon
Ingredients for the Glaze and Frosting
12-ounce jar of apricot preserves
½ cup of rum
6-8 tablespoons of bourbon
1 pound of confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons of softened butter
Directions
Prepare the Fruit Mixture
In a large bowl, combine the raisins, currants, mixed candied fruits, glazed fruits, candied pineapple, chopped pecans, slivered almonds, bourbon, and brandy. Refrigerate the mixture for at least one to two days, allowing the flavors to meld.
Make the Cake Batter
In a separate large bowl, beat the softened butter, brown sugar, granulated sugar, honey, grated lemon rind, almond extract, and vanilla extract until the mixture is smooth and well combined. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. In another bowl, sift together the all-purpose flour, cake flour, salt, baking powder, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients, mixing until just combined. Fold in the fruit and nut mixture, making sure it’s evenly distributed throughout the batter.
Prepare the Pans
Grease three 8½ by 4½ by 2½-inch loaf pans. Line the bottoms and sides of the pans with aluminum foil, then grease the foil. Spoon the batter evenly into the prepared pans, smoothing the tops.
Bake the Cakes
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Bake the cakes for one hour or until the centers spring back when lightly pressed. If the tops begin to brown too quickly, cover them loosely with buttered foil.
Make the Apricot Glaze
While the cakes are baking, place the apricot preserves in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring the apricot preserves to a hard boil and simmer for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the preserves reduce and thicken slightly.
Finish the Cakes
When the cakes are done, remove them from the oven. While still hot, sprinkle each cake with rum, then brush the cakes generously with the hot apricot glaze.
Prepare the Frosting
In a bowl, mix the bourbon with the confectioners’ sugar and softened butter to make a thin frosting. Spread the frosting over the top of the warm cakes, allowing it to set.
Cool and Store
Let the cakes cool in their pans on a wire rack. Once they have cooled, remove them from the pans and peel off the foil. Wrap the cakes in plastic wrap and refrigerate. The fruitcake should be sliced and chilled for the best texture.
Fruitcake Cookies
By Pat Branning
Yield: Approximately 28 medium-sized cookies
Try this recipe for a unique twist on a holiday favorite—and make it the highlight of your next cookie exchange. These cookies also make wonderful gifts.
Dry Ingredients
2½ cups of all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon of baking soda
½ teaspoon of baking powder
½ teaspoon of fine sea salt
1½ teaspoons of ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon of ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon of ground cloves
Wet Ingredients
1 cup of unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
¾ cup of granulated sugar
½ cup of dark brown sugar, packed
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 teaspoon of pure vanilla extract
Mix-ins
2 cups of finely chopped dried fruit, such as raisins, golden raisins, cherries, figs, apricots, or dates
Directions
In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves until well combined. Set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter on medium speed until light and fluffy, approximately 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the granulated sugar and dark brown sugar, and continue mixing until fully incorporated.
Add the egg and vanilla extract to the butter-sugar mixture and mix until well blended.
Reduce the mixer speed to low. Gradually add the dry ingredient mixture to the wet ingredients, mixing only until just combined. Scrape down the bowl, then fold in the chopped dried fruit.
Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Using a medium cookie scoop (approximately 2 tablespoons), portion the dough onto the prepared sheets, spacing each cookie about 2 inches apart (about 12 cookies per sheet).
Chill the dough for at least 30 minutes, up to overnight, to ensure proper spread and texture during baking.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Bake the cookies for 12–15 minutes, or until the edges are lightly golden. If the cookies have not begun to spread halfway through baking, gently press them down with your fingers.
Storage and Freezing
The dough may be baked in batches or frozen for later use.
To freeze, scoop the dough into portions, place them on a baking sheet to freeze until solid, then transfer to an airtight container.
Dough may be frozen for up to a couple of months. If you bake from frozen, add 1 to 2 minutes to the baking time.
MICHAEL GRAYSTOCK.ADOBE.COM
DANITA DELIMONT
Rural Georgia
Glowing cypress trees steal the spotlight on an autumn day in Georgia.
Jingle Bells The Song That Started a Feud
BY TOM POLAND
It’sannually voted the most popular Christmas song. Perhaps it’s the most controversial. When Savannah resident James L. Pierpont composed the song, he sowed the seeds for a dispute. Pierpont wrote his Christmas classic in autumn of 1857. You know the song as Jingle Bells, but “One Horse Open Sleigh” was its original title. Pierpont wrote it as a Thanksgiving song.
the piano decades later. Rahn glances over at the sheet music and sees a familiar name, Composer: J. Pierpont. Rahn knew of two J. Pierponts. The name on the sheet music, was it a mere coincidence?
We can thank the late Charlie Smith of Wrightsville, Georgia, for this Christmas story. Charlie emailed me a link to a story and the following note: “Tom, this is a story from ten or so years ago and M.H. Rahn has since passed away. M.H. was married to my first cousin on the Smith side of the family. Not only was he interested in history, mainly Savannah’s, but he also was a self-made millionaire. Started with a fruit stand on the old Bay Street Road.”
Rahn did more than that. He riled up the folks in Medford, Massachusetts. Once upon a time “Jingle Bells” belonged exclusively to their city. Until 1969 Medford, just outside Boston, could claim the carol without challenge. And then M.H. Rahn linked the song’s composer to Savannah. His discovery set Medford and Savannah to feuding.
When the snow settled, here’s what we know.
James Pierpont served as the organist at Savannah’s Unitarian Church in 1857. Flash forward now.
Rahn had read letters that John Pierpont Jr., pastor at Savannah’s Unitarian Church, wrote from 1852 to 1858. His letters to Medford said brother James had come to Savannah as an organist and music teacher. Further research revealed James settled in Savannah.
As for making his discovery known, M.H. Rahn said, “I saw this as something to help us get publicity for the church.” Well it did a whole lot more. It started a controversy. Savannah claimed it had originated a Christmas classic.
The Birthplace Debate
The next time you’re in Savannah go to the historic district. Across from Troupe Square where Habersham and Macon Streets intersect you’ll find a marker:
James L. Pierpont (1822-1893), composer of “Jingle Bells,” served as music director of this church in the 1850s when it was a Unitarian Church located on Oglethorpe Square. Son of the noted Boston reformer, Rev. John Pierpont, he was the brother of Rev. John Pierpont, Jr., minister of this church, and uncle of financier John Pierpont Morgan. He married Eliza Jane Purse, daughter of Savannah mayor Thomas Purse, and served with a Confederate cavalry regiment. He is buried in Laurel Grove Cemetery. A prolific songwriter, his best-known “Jingle Bells” is world famous.
Hold on a minute. About 900 miles north in Medford, you’ll find a plaque at 19 High Street in Medford Square. This plaque marks the birthplace of Jingle Bells, and claims Pierpont wrote the song there in 1850 at the Simpson Tavern, a boarding house with the only piano in town. The Medford
JINGLE BELLS PLAQUE IN TROUPE SQUARE. PHOTO COURTESY OF TOM POLAND.
Historical Society claims that the town’s popular sleigh races inspired the song.
The problem is the song’s copyright date. That casts doubt on the possibility that Pierpont wrote the song in Medford. By 1850, Pierpont served as the organist and music director of the Unitarian Church in Savannah. In August that same year, James Pierpont married the mayor of Savannah’s daughter. The 1857 copyright date sits at the heart of the controversy.
A 2003 msn.com article about the controversy posed a question: “Did Pierpont write it in Savannah as a piece of homesick, holiday nostalgia? Or did he compose it years before in Medford, not seeing the tune as a moneymaker until he drifted south?”
The controversy grew legs in 1985. That’s when Savannah erected a Jingle Bells marker across from the church and then-Mayor John Rousakis declared the tune a Savannah song.
That didn’t sit well with the folks in Medford. Ill-tempered letters flew back and forth. “In the words of Shakespeare, it is our intention to keep our ‘honor from corruption,”’ Medford Mayor Michael McGlynn wrote in a 1989 letter to Rousakis. “We unequivocally state that ‘Jingle Bells’ was composed ... in the Town of Medford during the year 1850!”
Rousakis fired back. “James L. Pierpont is still here with us,” noting the composer’s Savannah burial. “I am sure (Pierpont) will join us in spirit when we finally and formally proclaim Savannah, Georgia, as the birthplace of ‘Jingle Bells.’”
Ace Collins, author of the Stories Behind the Best-Loved Songs of Christmas (2001), says he found more proof of Medford being the rightful birthplace while researching his chapter on Jingle Bells. He had found a New England newspaper from
the early 1840s that mentioned “One Horse Open Sleigh” debuting in Medford at a Thanksgiving church service. Pierpont gave a repeat performance of the popular song at Christmas.
When it comes to which city owns bragging rights, Collins stays neutral. Pierpont may have written his song in Medford, but Savannah made him realize its universal appeal. “Savannah was the key,” Collins said. “If it can play in Savannah, where snow was a novelty, it can play anywhere.”
The Mystery Lives On
No one knows the definitive answer to this Christmas carol mystery. The one person who can set us straight is no longer with us. Pierpont walked this green earth from 1822 to 1893. He ran away to sea at fourteen and later went to California during the Gold Rush. During the Civil War, he joined a Confederate cavalry regiment in Savannah in opposition to his family’s staunch abolitionist views.
Pierpont apparently was a self-made Southerner and for sure a nomad, but his best song would wander farther than he ever could. Jingle Bells, you may recall, was the first song broadcast from space by Gemini Six astronauts Tom Stafford and Wally Schirra.
On December 16, 1965, they sent this report to Mission Control: “We have an object, looks like a satellite going from north to south, probably in polar orbit. I see a command module and eight smaller modules in front. The pilot of the command module is wearing a red suit.” The astronauts then produced a smuggled harmonica and sleigh bells, and broadcast a rendition of Jingle Bells
So, is this song that’s out of this world actually a song of the South? Why not? Let’s lay claim to it and thank Rahn for his diligent research. As for Pierpont, he met a fate common to other songwriters. Among the many composers of songs walk those lonely souls known as one-hit wonders. Add James L. Pierpont’s name to the list.
Pierpont passed away long ago and his song has since passed into public domain. The controversy, however, remains alive as it dashes through the snow up north and dashes through sunshine, pines, oaks, and Spanish moss down south.
JINGLE BELLS PLAQUE IN MEDFORD SQUARE. PHOTO COURTESY OF TOM POLAND.
Boone, North Carolina
Cows graze in the rural fields of Appalachia.
CRAIG ZERBE
LANDSCAPE Explore sandstone formations that frame forest views.
TWIN ARCHES IN BIG SOUTH FORK RECREATION AREA
The Twin Arches Trail in Tennessee’s Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area leads to two of the largest natural sandstone arches in the eastern United States. Towering more than 100 feet, these formations frame sweeping forest views. The loop hike combines rugged beauty, rich geology, and unforgettable Appalachian wilderness scenery.
Oneida, Tennessee 4564 Leatherwood Road Coordinates: 35.08033° N, –84.47578° W nps.gov/biso/learn/nature/twinarches.htm
Photography by PhotoSpirit
Savor autumn in an emerald pool.
Tucked in the Jefferson National Forest, Devil’s Bathtub is a crystalclear, emerald pool carved into smooth rock by years of rushing water. Reached by a rugged but rewarding hike along streams and cascades, this natural wonder is a favorite spot for photographers and adventurers alike, offering a magical, otherworldly setting deep in Virginia’s mountains.
Fort Blackmore, Virginia
3726 Devil’s Fork Road
Coordinates: 36.819106° N, –82.628852° W gohikevirginia.com/devils-bathtub-hike/
by Timothy
DEVIL’S BATHTUB
Photography
LANDSCAPE Hike to a hidden gem steeped in Cherokee legend.
ISSAQUEENA FALLS
Issaqueena Falls, near Walhalla, South Carolina, is a picturesque 100-foot cascade tucked within Sumter National Forest. A short trail leads to a viewing platform overlooking the falls, while adventurous hikers can scramble down to the base. Steeped in Cherokee legend, this hidden gem offers a tranquil escape into the Upstate’s natural and cultural beauty.
Walhalla, South Carolina
Stumphouse Tunnel Park, Scenic Highway 28 (SC-28)
Coordinates: N 34.80740°, W –83.12158° sctrails.net/trails/trail/issaqueena-falls
Photography by Sean Pavone Photo
Wander through a primitive wildlife refuge.
Holly Shelter Game Land in Pender County spans over 63,000 acres of diverse habitats, including pine savannas, swamps, and wetlands. A haven for wildlife enthusiasts, it offers opportunities for hiking, birdwatching, and primitive camping. Accessible yearround, visitors can explore its natural beauty and observe native species in their undisturbed environment.
Rocky Point, North Carolina 7471 Shaw Hwy
Coordinates: 34.4596122° N, –77.6908097° W [central point] visitnc.com/listing/AFPe/holly-shelter-game-land
HOLLY SHELTER GAME LAND
Photography by Tom Ramsey
Raleigh, North Carolina
EJ KROUSE
Pumpkins await shoppers at the State Farmer’s Market in Raleigh.
Our Fall 2025 giveaway features the Dorothy, a $169 value. Perfectly sized for any occasion, this stylish handbag is available in five colors: black, caramel, cinnamon, red, and teal. The Dorothy Bag combines clean lines with a modern silhouette, featuring interior and exterior pockets, a secure magnetic closure, and a striking acrylic crossbody strap. Spacious enough for your daily essentials yet polished for an evening out, this versatile staple is designed to take you from work to weekend with ease.
Interior leather pocket
Exterior back pocket
Magnetic closure
D-rings for strap addition
Crossbody and scarf chain straps
Acrylic link crossbody strap included
Handcrafted in Raleigh, NC
USA Leather
MEASUREMENTS:
10.5”W x 7”H x 5”D
This purchase provides 10 living wage hours for a vulnerable woman.
From October 1 through December 12, fill out our form at backroadportfolio.com for a chance to win! Three winners will be chosen. All items are subject to availability but are in regular production rotation.
A seascape painting, cast iron accessories, handcrafted jewelry, and laser-cut ornaments provide inspiring ideas for holiday gifts.
SAIL AWAY
Not Far Down to Paradise by Dan Campbell Art, $1,850 | dancampbellart.com
Taking a line from Christopher Cross’ song, Sailing, North Carolina artist Daniel Campbell titled his latest seascape Not Far Down to Paradise. This acrylic piece is 30 by 48 inches on a 1.5 inch gallery-wrapped canvas frame. An abstract expressionist painter inspired by greats like Delaunay, De Kooning, Degas, Cézanne, and Monet, Campbell also offers collections featuring his floral and landscape, animals and wildlife, music, sports, and abstract paintings.
DECORATIVE DEFENSE
Pot Handle Covers by AlmaBoheme, $7.50 etsy.com/shop/almaboheme
These heat-insulated pot handle covers for cast iron skillets are made by Georgia artist Alma Pacheco of AlmaBoheme. They feature three layers of cotton and batting, and come in a variety of whimsical patterns, such as animals, florals, and fashion.
CATCH THE LIGHT
Crushed Opal Earrings by Maddalena Michetti, $52 weshopsc.com/item/18010/skeleton-leaf-earrings-3
These shimmering handcrafted earrings available through WeShop SC feature iridescent green opal shards in marquise bezels hanging from minimalist silver hoops. The stones catch the light and reflect gold, blue, and teal hues, blending modern style with natural beauty.
SACRED SPIRIT
Nativity Ornament Set by ByVirginiaHandmade, $24 etsy.com/shop/byvirginiahandmade
ByVirginiaHandmade’s 3D laser cut nativity set features Joseph (5.5 inches high by 1.75 inches wide), Mary (5 inches high by 1.5 inches wide), and Baby Jesus (2.25 inches high by 3.25 inches wide). Each comes with natural wooden beads and a hemp cord for hanging them on your tree.
Raleigh, North Carolina
Historic Yates Mill is decorated for the holiday season with a festive wreath.
Experience a southern food festivals and a pirate invastion.
FestiFall at Walnut Grove Plantation | October 4-5, 2025
Roebuck, South Carolina spartanburghistory.org
Experience a Revolutionary War reenactment featuring colonial crafts, musket demonstrations, and living history as you immerse yourself in South Carolina’s 18th-century past with engaging activities.
Blairsville Sorghum Festival | October 11-12 and 18-19, 2025
Celebrate sorghum syrup through demonstrations, crafts, food, and live music in the scenic Appalachian mountains, enjoying a taste of traditional culture over two weekends.
Grains & Grits Festival | November 1, 2025
Townsend, Tennessee grainsandgritsfest.com
Experience southern spirits and gourmet food, craft spirit tastings, live entertainment, and the “Ring of Fire” chef showcase which pairs roasted meats with regional distillery spirits. Shuttles are available from local accommodations.
North Carolina Pecan Music Festival | November 1, 2025
Whiteville, North Carolina ncpecanfestival.com
Celebrate the pecan harvest with delicious pecan-based dishes, local crafts, and community events. Enjoy family-friendly activities and the flavors of the Piedmont region.
Beaufort Pirate Invasion | November 14-15, 2025
Beaufort, North Carolina thebeaufortpirateinvasion.com/blank-1
This reenactment of the 1747 Spanish pirate attack on rural Beaufort features 200 performers, sword fights, and pirate trials. North Carolina’s colonial maritime history comes to life with parades and entertainment.
Kingsland Catfish Festival | November 21-22, 2025
Kingsland, Georgia kingslandcatfishfestival.org
This rural coastal festival and family-friendly event features southern fried catfish, crafts, and live entertainment in celebration of South Georgia’s culinary traditions via a street party and parade.
Experience festive trees, Charles Dickens traditions, and a gingerbread competition.
Gatlinburg’s Festival of Trees | November 26-30, 2025
This 52-year tradition kicks off with a Candy Canes & Cocktails Reception and features lavishly decorated Christmas trees, wreaths, and holiday décor for sale, benefiting local charities. Enjoy a children’s craft area and Santa photos. Free admission; donations appreciated.
Charles Dickens-Themed Holiday Weekends | Weekends during December 6-28, 2025
Middleburg, Virginia visitmiddleburgva.com/have-a-dickens-of-a-christmas-in-middleburg
Enjoy a Dickens-themed holiday festival featuring carriage rides, street performers, carolers, hot chocolate, and more. Events include a dog show, A Christmas Carol performances, and Victorian-era dances on S. Madison Street.
Salem Gingerbread Festival | December 6, 2025
Salem, Virginia
s-rcchamber.org/2024-gingerbread-festival
This festive holiday celebration at Longwood Park and Salem Museum offers free admission and features a gingerbread house competition, marshmallow roast, face painting, food trucks, and appearances by Santa Claus, Mrs. Claus, and local mascots.
Mercier Orchards Santa at the Farm
December 14, 2025
Blue Ridge, Georgia
mercier-orchards.com
Take photos with Santa amidst the orchard’s festive decor and visit the market, which is filled with Christmas cheer, jingle bells, and the aroma of freshly baked cookies. Warm up with a cup of hot apple cider and a fresh-baked doughnut, then take home a fried pie and some homemade jam.
PHOTO COURTESY OF
PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE
Meet the people behind the stories, photography, and art featured in this issue.
Elizabeth Poland Shugg
EDITOR AND CO-CREATOR
Chapel Hill, North Carolina
Born in Lincolnton, Georgia, Elizabeth grew up in nearby Athens on 200 acres of family land. At 13, she moved to rural Virginia, spending summers in South Carolina. Now in Chatham County, North Carolina, she lives on 3 acres and enjoys traveling backroads and exploring small towns. A professional writer and editor for 30 years, Elizabeth has worked as editor of seven magazines, four of which she helped launch. She, her husband, and their Brittany, Luna, love hiking and traveling with their three adult children.
Erica de Flamand Olin, North Carolina
ART DIRECTOR AND CO-CREATOR
Erica, a UCONN Fine Arts graduate, has worked over 20 years as a designer, photographer, and creative director in adventure travel, conservation, finance, national security, and event planning. Featured in over a dozen gallery installations, she’s earned numerous awards and taught as an adjunct professor for four semesters. Erica runs The Summer House studio and a nonprofit offering nature-based mental health services in North Carolina. Erica lives in the Blue Ridge foothills with her husband, two dogs, and horses.
Tom Poland
WRITER AND PHOTOGRAPHER
Columbia, South Carolina
Tom Poland writes about the South’s people, culture, and nature, with interests in music, writing, and photography. His weekly column, in over 65 newspapers and journals, reaches 100,000 readers. His books include Georgialina, Carolina Bays, and his latest with Robert Clark, South Carolina Reflections:
A Photographic Journey. A frequent speaker, Tom received South Carolina’s Order of the Palmetto in 2018. Learn more about him at tompoland.net and on Substack at tompolandwriter.substack.com.
Robert Clark
PHOTOGRAPHER
Columbia, South Carolina
A resident of Columbia, South Carolina, and native of Charlotte, North Carolina, Robert Clark’s photography has appeared in National Geographic, Newsweek , and Smithsonian. Specializing in architectural, editorial, advertising, and fine art photography, Robert has photographed seven South Carolina books, including Carolina Bays (2019) and his latest with Tom Poland, South Carolina Reflections:
A Photographic Journey. Robert is also a PPA member. View his work on Instagram at instagram.com/ robertclarkphotographer.
Andrew Hebard
WRITER AND TOPIC EXPERT
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
Andrew Hebard moved to North Carolina from the United Kingdom in 2002 with his wife and two daughters. Since graduating with a degree in agricultural science in the UK, Andrew has focused on working with farmers to grow biodiverse and therapeutic crops in different parts of the world, as well as building sustainable, traceable and risk managed supply chains. He is the founder and CEO of Natures Crops International, has chaired two charitable organizations, and founded Reap More Than You Sow, a charity to build and establish community gardens. He’s also a previous holder of the Royal Warrant and a keen outdoorsman, farmer, and conservationist.
Would you like your photography, art, or writing to be featured in an upcoming issue Backroad Portfolio? If so, contact us at backroadportfolio@gmail.com!
Bruce DeBoer
PHOTOGRAPHER AND PAINTER
Raleigh, North Carolina
Bruce DeBoer has over 40 years of experience creating visual stories through photography and filmmaking. He discovered photography at age 12 on Long Island, and earned a bachelors of science in advertising photography at Rochester Institute of Technology. Bruce has worked in Boston, Kansas City, and Chicago, and is now in Raleigh, and has held roles at Hallmark Cards and Erickson Productions. A founding partner at Stone Soup Productions, Bruce runs DeBoerWorks. Learn more at deboerfineart.com.
Jeff Tucker
WRITER AND TOPIC EXPERT
Advance, North Carolina
Jeff Tucker, a North Carolina native, has pursued his passion for hunting since childhood. He finds the greatest reward in hunting over and training his own dogs, which led him to join the North American Versatile Hunting Dog Association (NAVHDA) through which he tested multiple dogs who earned top scores. Jeff founded the Foothills NAVHDA Chapter in 2020. His involvement in hunting extends to support of conservation and sporting organizations such as Backcountry Hunters & Anglers, Three Rivers Land Trust, and the Sandhills Pointing Breeds Club. Jeff also founded Vanguard Gun Dogs, where he focuses on developing versatile, highperforming bird dogs.
Christy Langston Mount Vernon, Missouri
PHOTOGRAPHER
Originally from Central Missouri, Christy Langston studied agriculture business at Missouri State University. Alongside her husband, she owns and operates Spring River Ag Supply and Spring River Kennel. She is the vice president of the Springfield Plateau Chapter of Quail Forever, communications officer for the Missouri Uplands Chapter of North American Versatile Hunting Dog Association (NAVHDA), and vice president of the Missouri Women on the Wing Chapter. Learn more at springriverkennel.com.
Pat Branning
WRITER AND EDITOR
Atlanta, Georgia
Pat Branning, a Southern storyteller with a journalism degree from the University of Georgia, started as women’s editor at WSB Radio and worked with Ted Turner pre-CNN. After marrying and moving to Beaufort, South Carolina, she embraced Lowcountry life, collecting stories and recipes inspired by the region and lifestyle. As editor of Shrimp, Collards & Grits, she celebrated southern culture and now shares recipes, history, and humor on Substack at patbranning.com.
Jennifer Linney
PHOTOGRAPHER
Prince William County, Virginia
Jennifer Linney, from Prince William County, Virginia, loves photographing old barns and farmhouses. Once a mental note-taker of photo opportunities, she now roams backroads, capturing rusted roofs and hidden farmhouses. A writer and editor, she shares her blissful finds on Instagram at instagram.com/ alwaystakethebackroads.
Danita Delimont
PHOTOGRAPHER
Bellevue, Washington
Danita Delimont founded her photo agency in 1999, representing global nature, wildlife, and travel photographers. She received the 2009 Jane Kinne Picture Professional of the Year award and a 2007 NANPA Fellow. Learn more at danitadelimont.com.
DIGIDREAMGRAFIX
McAdenville, North Carolina
Known as “Christmas Town U.S.A.,” McAdenville lights up for visitors from December 1-26 each year.
Nestled in the foothills of the Blueridge Mountains in Stanley, Virginia, Shenandoah Woods is a private 200-acre estate spanning from one ridge line to the next and the valley between. We offer romantic log cabins perfect for couples, lodges for larger groups, and a wedding venue with fantastic views of Virginia’s iconic Shenandoah Valley.
Stanley, Virginia
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON CAVE
With over 50 years of experience, South Carolina travel photographer Robert Clark explores the Southeast in search of dynamic imagery. Robert’s fine-art collection is available for purchase as custom-printed artwork for your home or business. To see more of Robert’s artistry, follow him on Instagram or send an email if you’re interested in attending Robert’s photography workshops.
rcphoto@yahoo.com @robertclarkphotographer
“I will honour Christmas in my heart, and try to keep it all the year.”
