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Manassas, Virginia
Manassas National Battlefield Park in Prince William County.
JENNIFER LINNEY
A chill in the air. The distant scent of chimney smoke. An unencumbered view of a barren forest. These are but a few of winter’s gifts. As you navigate our coldest season, southeastern adventures await.
Imagine observing a single location through all four seasons. Harold Branham did this when he painted Lake Wateree, located 30 miles northeast of Columbia, South Carolina. Known as one of the Palmetto State’s oldest manmade lakes, “The River” holds a special place in Branham’s heart. Read about his experiences in Tom Poland’s “A Year on the River” on page 22.
Antiquing offers the promise of rediscovering nostalgia. North Carolina writer Beth Peterson shares her experiences searching for treasured vestiges throughout the Southeast in “Peer Into the Past” on page 32.
We share the perspective of an animal communicator in “Speaking to Hearts Through Animals” on page 40. Kali Crosby speaks from not only her heart, but from the pets’ of her clients, offering their thoughts and musings. Some of their messages may surprise you.
Explore towns along a corridor of American history in our “There and Back Again” feature on page 52. Journey from Lenoir, North Carolina, to Pickens, South Carolina, and discover wineries, a tea house, a preserved mill, and historic accommodations along the way.
Our winter issue also features magical portfolio images from professional photographers who capture the Southeast’s winter beauty like you’ve never seen before.
Winter turns our focus to internal delights. In this issue, we aim to help you discover where they are. One thing is certain: Take the backroads and you’re guaranteed to rediscover your roots and reconnect with your past.
As we celebrate our first year of Backroad Portfolio issues and begin a new one, we can rediscover the art of wintering—a practice that jumpstarted this adventure for us both last January. We are grateful to all of you for joining us on this journey. Happy New Year!
Wilmington, North Carolina
flock of birds fly toward warmer skies during the winter months.
EIFEL KRUETZ
A
Southern backroads are filled with secret places, treasures, legends, and wonders. Here are some to ponder.
TREASURE
Pickens, South Carolina
PLACE
Charlottesville, Virginia
The private Burial Ground for Enslaved People at Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello estate in Charlottesville, Virginia, holds over 40 graves and honors more than 400 enslaved people who once lived and labored there. The site was dedicated in 2001 with a ceremony featuring remarks from NAACP President Julian Bond. Between 2018 and 2022, more accessible pathways and plantings were added, along with dedicated parking, additional seating, and new signage.
While the burial ground remains private, a Contemplative Site on the property offers Monticello’s visitors a quiet space to reflect upon the lives of at least 607 enslaved African Americans associated with the historic estate. A 60-foot-long steel wall listing their known names commands attention and reverence. Blank areas ensure space for additional names as they are discovered. Learn more at monticello.org.
PHOTOS BY ERICA DE FLAMAND
Hagood Mill in Pickens, South Carolina exists as a treasure on its own—which is why we included it as a stop on our There and Back Again journey on page 52. But walk along Hagood Creek near the mill and you’ll find something possibly even more remarkable.
On a rainy day in 2003, Dr. Tommy Charles, a retired archeologist from the University of South Carolina’s Institute of Archeology and Anthropology, discovered a series of prehistoric petroglyphs carved on sloping granite outcroppings near Hagood Creek. Charles and his colleagues used talcum powder to trace the lines of the carvings.
Eventually, a total of 32 were discovered—some abstract and some shaped like human stick figures. Most experts believe they’re at least 1,000 years old. You’ll find them along the Native Roots Trail, which is part of an old Native American path.
Learn more at visithagoodmill.com.
PHOTO BY JOHN FOXE COURTESY OF WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
LEGEND
Blairsville, Georgia
Some say Blood Mountain took its name from a bloody 1700s battle between the Cherokee and Creek tribes. Others believe it got its name from the reddish color of the lichen and catawba rhododendron that grow near its summit. But whichever legend you prefer, the mountain’s 4,458-foot-high summit in Chattahoochee National Forest—considered the highest peak of Georgia’s section of the Appalachian Trail—offers spectacular views of deep orange-red sunsets, especially in fall when surrounding leaves add to its splendor. The hike up to the top is six miles and considered somewhat difficult, but is worth the effort. Learn more at georgiaconservancy.org/bloodmountain.
MIGRATION
Southeast
Robins have an enormous winter range. Some fly as far south as Florida, while others stay as far north as they are able to find fruit-bearing trees and shrubs with crabapples, hawthorns, holly, and juniper. You can increase the chance of robins visiting during winter by serving dried or fresh fruit and providing a source of water.
Robins form nomadic flocks during winter, which can consist of hundreds to thousands of birds that make quite a presence. Maybe you’ve heard a robin swarm but didn’t realize robins could make so much noise. Sometimes the flocks break up during the day while foraging, then gather again at night to roost in trees.
When spring arrives, the flocks split up and robins return to feeding on worms in the ground, marking their return from migration and to a more territorial mindset, as they prepare for courting and raising chicks. Learn more at abcbirds.org/blog20/do-robins-migrate.
PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH POLAND SHUGG
PHOTO OF THE SUMMIT OF BLOOD MOUNTAIN IN GEORGIA BY TRACY — STOCK.ADOBE.COM
JENNIFER
LINNEY
Hamilton, Virginia
A vibrant barn contrasts against a snowy scene in Loudoun County, Virginia.
No matter what time of year you venture out, picturesque southeastern backroads will transport you to these evergreen destinations.
MINNEHAHA FALLS
This 60-foot-high waterfall is one of the most photographed in the region. Buried in a wide, steep-sided cove, the falls await hikers at the end of the .4-mile Minnehaha Trail. To get there, take U.S. 23/441 North from Tallulah Falls for three miles until you reach the Rabun Beach Recreation Area sign, then turn left on Old 441 and travel about two-and-a-half miles. Turn left on Lake Rabun Road, drive a mile, then turn left on Low Gap Road. Follow Bear Gap Road for one-and-a-half miles until you see the trail sign on the right side of the road.
Rabun County, Georgia
A five-minute walk from Bear Gap Road explorerabun.com/minnehaha-falls
LAKE MURRAY
Winter is the perfect time to hike or bike one of Lake Murray’s many trails, when boating recreation dies down and birding activity increases. Bald eagles are known to frequent the area during winter, and while great blue herons are year-round residents, they become more active during colder months. Lake Murray covers 50,000 acres of land and boasts 650 miles of shoreline. Trails are plentiful and offer a diverse range of lakeviews.
Columbia, South Carolina
Irmo parking: 2101 North Lake Drive Columbia Lexington parking: 1797 North Lake Drive Lexington lakemurraycountry.com
PHOTO OF MINNEHAHA FALLS IN RABUN COUNTY, GEORGIA BY GUY BRYANT — STOCK.ADOBE.COM
PHOTO OF LAKE MURRAY AT SUNSET BY CHRIS — STOCK.ADOBE.COM
JOHNNIE MERCER’S FISHING PIER
The first concrete fishing pier in North Carolina is named after the avid fisherman—not famous singer—who bought it in 1939. Stroll 1,200 feet into the Atlantic Ocean on this Wrightsville Beach pier for amazing views and sea breezes. It also offers a seasonal grill, gift shop, and fully stocked tackle shop for anglers to explore.
Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina 23 E. Salisbury Street johnniemercersfishingpier.com
Virginia’s longest river begins at the confluence of the Cowpasture and Jackson Rivers in Botetourt County and ends at the Chesapeake Bay in Hampton Roads. Once home to Virginia’s first colonial capital at Williamsburg, it also crosses through the Commonwealth’s modern capital of Richmond. Walk across Buchanan’s swinging bridge for an expansive view of the river in Southwest Virginia, or capture a vista of it from the T. Tyler Potterfield Memorial Bridge in Richmond’s James River Park. There are plenty of points in-between worth visiting as well.
Botetourt County > Chesapeake Bay thejamesriver.org jamesriverpark.org
PHOTO OF A SUNSET BY THE JAMES RIVER — “FIRE ON THE JAMES” BY DOUG — STOCK.ADOBE.COM
PHOTO OF JOHNNIE MERCER’S FISHING PIER AT SUNRISE IN WRIGHTSVILLE BEACH BY CHANSAK JOE A. — STOCK.ADOBE.COM
JAMES RIVER
PHOTO
BY NICK
PHOTO
Shenandoah Valley, Central Virginia
The Milky Way weaves through a star-studded winter sky over Shenandoah National Park.
NOSTALGIA
Backroads transport us to places and events that commemorate our country’s history. Here are some from southeastern winters of the past.
ORDINANCE OF SECESSION JANUARY 19, 1861
On this date, Georgia convention delegates passed the Ordinance of Secession, and the Republic of Georgia joined the Confederate States of America. A celebration followed at Milledgeville’s Statehouse Square.
Four years later, Union General William T. Sherman marched with 30,000 Union troops into Milledgeville and destroyed the state arsenal and powder magazine. He then burned the penitentiary, central depot, and Oconee Bridge. Sherman also left the surrounding countryside in shambles. Reconstruction commenced across the South in 1868, and the capital of Georgia was moved to Atlanta, the symbol of the New South. Milledgeville remained the symbol of the Old South.
BY CAROL HIGH SMITH, COURTESY OF THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
FEBRUARY 3, 1882
Roanoke, Virginia, may be known as the “Capital of the Blue Ridge,” but its history began in the 1740s after salt marshes in the Roanoke Valley, known as licks, served as gathering places for buffalo, elk, deer, and Indian tribes. A village formed around these marshes and became known as Big Lick. In 1852, the railroad arrived but missed Big Lick, so the towns’ residents moved everything to the tracks and began referring to the town’s original site as Old Lick.
Big Lick was officially chartered in 1874. Just over seven years later, on February 3, 1882, Big Lick was renamed “Roanoke,” a word derived from the Indian word “Rawrenock,” which was the tribal name for shell beads the Indians wore and used as trade goods. Other interpretations of Roanoke’s meaning refer to “white beads made from shells” and “shell money.”
Roanoke, Virginia visitroanokeva.com
PHOTO
THE FORMING OF ROANOKE
WHITEHALL CONSTRUCTION WINTER 1928
This Georgian Revival residence in Aiken, South Carolina, was constructed in 1927 on the old Whitehall estate ruins to serve as the winter home for Colonel Robert McCormick, a co-owner of the Chicago Tribune, beginning in 1928. The home was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1984. A stately dwelling designed by award-winning architect Willis Irving of Augusta, Georgia, Whitehall features a one-story, brick, U-shaped structure that encompasses three sections covered by a gabled roof. McCormick was a war hero, public servant, and proponent of First Amendment rights—which aptly suited his role as a publisher, editor, and media pioneer.
Aiken, South Carolina nationalregister.sc.gov/aiken/S10817702023/index.htm
BY CAROL HIGH SMITH, COURTESY OF THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
Southeastern U.S. ncei.noaa.gov/news/1993-snow-storm-of-the-century
STORM OF THE CENTURY MARCH 12-14, 1993
America’s second-costliest winter storm to date bore down on nearly half of the country March 12-14, 1993, and resulted in $5.5 billion in damages. Titled the “Storm of the Century,” a central pressure—typically found in category 3 hurricanes—spawned tornadoes, coastal flooding, and 50 inches of snow in parts of North Carolina— as well as winds up to 93 miles per hour. The storm swept across the deep South and up the East Coast, delivering bone-chilling temperatures with it.
OF SNOWFALL FROM THE SUPERSTORM OF 1993 IN WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA BY GARY STEPHENSON
PHOTO
PHOTO
Columbia, South Carolina
tompol@earthlink.net
tompoland.net
Tom Poland travels southern backroads seeking evidence of how those before us lived, worked, and survived. Each day their farms, barns, outbuildings, stores, churches, and onceessential structures succumb to time and the elements. He photographs and writes about a forgotten land so that others can know it was there. A writer, author, and photographer, his books cover the backroads, vanishing cultural ways, and natural areas at risk. He and co-author Robert Clark document what is, a land that may well become what was.
Take something you want, something you need, something to wear, and something to read on your next backroad journey.
For this issue, we’re focusing on products from western North Carolina as we strive to support entrepreneurs and businesses still recovering from Hurricane Helene. Shop for more products created by these businesses at brandsofwnc.com/products.
SOMETHING YOU WANT
The Village Bakery, prices vary villagebakerync.com
From baked goods and pastries to brick-oven breads and wood-fired pizzas, enjoy a memorable breakfast or lunch at Village Bakery in either Flat Rock or Fletcher, North Carolina, as you head out to your next adventure. Place an order online or dine-in at either location.
Village Bakery also recently opened a new cafe called Pisgah Bakehouse in Brevard (pisgahbakehouse.com).
Flat Rock and Fletcher, North Carolina
SOMETHING YOU NEED
Cooperative Coffee Roasters, $10.50 and up cooperativecoffeeroasters.com
Cooperative, a small-batch coffee roaster located in West Asheville since 2019, operates a roasting facility underneath its cafe where it roasts sweet, bright, and clean coffee. Choose from 11 flavors with names like Levity, Virtue, and Gravity. Purchase coffee by the bag or in “tasting boxes” containing signature blends or single-origin coffees. You can also donate a pound of coffee to Hurricane Helene relief efforts.
Asheville, North Carolina
SOMETHING TO WEAR
Together We Rise T-Shirt, $28
fuelgoods.com/products/together-we-rise-t-shirt-supporting-hurricane-helene-relief Designed by Ashlee Designs in collaboration with Pressio, this fully sustainable Together We Rise T-shirt captures the beauty and resilience of North Carolina’s mountains and people. All proceeds go directly to western North Carolina relief efforts to help survivors of Hurricane Helene.
Asheville, North Carolina
SOMETHING TO READ
Boardinghouse Women by Elizabeth Engelhardt, $27.95 uncpress.org/book/9781469676401/boardinghouse-women
In Boardinghouse Women, author Elizabeth Engelhardt makes a strong argument for modern American food, business, caretaking, politics, travel, writing, and restaurants being indebted to boarding house women of the South. From the 1700s well into the 1900s, entrepreneurial women owned and/or ran boarding houses across the South, which provided them with a source of financial independence. These lodgings also served as hubs of business innovation, with residents writing books, making music, and forming communities of support for each other.
Southern United States | Published in Chapel Hill, North Carolina
Places remain where the past hangs tough and old habits die difficult deaths. Can a river and lake be one and the same? Yes.
Entering South Carolina the Catawba becomes the Wateree and the Wateree becomes Lake Wateree for a while, but Harold Branham calls the lake “The River,” even though a dam straddled this big two-named river way back in 1919.
BY TOM POLAND
A YEAR ON THE RIVER
Lake Wateree Throughout the Seasons
Lake Wateree, aka “The River,” holds a special place in Harold’s heart. Over the last seven years, he painted Lake Wateree throughout the seasons. Brush strokes captured her moods until he had what he refers to as “A Year on The River.” Harold’s coverage includes a full moon over the lake, a lonely fisherman on a bridge, an egret foraging against a backdrop of boulders, a windy winter day on a white-capping lake, a snow-covered dock, burnt-orange cypress mirroring autumnal waters, and other seasonal portraits of one of South Carolina’s older manmade lakes.
The past hangs in there and old timers hang onto the past. “My first recollection of Wateree,” said Harold, “was it’s being known as ‘The River,’ and a lot of old timers still call it that to this very day.” Harold remembers when folks first got permission to use The River for recreational purposes. “They’d cut trails through heavily wooded areas off dirt roads to the waterfront and after a light rain or heavy dew they’d float down river.”
He itched to join them. Harold bought a small aluminum boat and a used tent sporting a few holes. So outfitted, he’d encamp at campgrounds or the state park and fish. “Like most fishermen, I had my secret spot where a fish or two were a guarantee.”
Harold’s “River” has seen a lot of changes over the years. “Million-dollar homes replaced tin shacks. Docks the size of shopping centers sprang up mooring boats big enough to take you to the Caribbean islands.” That’s the case on many manmade lakes in our bigger is better world, but you won’t see massive docks or big boats in Harold’s work, art fueled by a desire he describes as an obligation. “I felt compelled to share the beauty and bounty of Lake Wateree through a series of paintings I titled, ‘A Year on The River.’”
LAKE WATEREE
A few facts about this lake folks refer to as a river. It’s the site of fish tournaments, and it covers 21 square miles in Kershaw, Fairfield, and Lancaster counties. It’s a region of wilderness and Indian burial mounds.
Located 30 miles northeast of Columbia, at 13,025 acres, it’s the largest of the Catawba-Wateree lakes in South Carolina. Some 216 miles of shoreline, including islands, encompass Lake Wateree State Recreation Area, a bird refuge, and Shaw Air Force Base Recreation Center. Its full pond elevation is 225.5 feet. You’ll find 14 access points. Duke Energy and the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources maintain eight public boat access areas on the lake and one below the dam.
The arrival of the Wateree Hydroelectric Station created Lake Wateree in 1920. The Wateree Dam, 3,380 feet long, constrains the Wateree River before releasing it downstream. The lake provides a dependable water supply for Lugoff and Camden. Its name recalls the extinct Wateree Indians who lived in the area until European settlers ran them out.
Then as now, ospreys and eagles hunt the area. Harold loves watching the raptors. “It’s truly a blessing to watch them—one of many things I love about ‘The River.’”
That compulsion to share the beauty of the lake, how did it begin?
Once a month Harold would catch a ride with friends who own a boat and look for subjects to paint. He had an option as well. His Harley-Davidson.
“I’d ride the perimeter in search of places and things. Some folks with a sharp eye and camera let me sketch subjects for the series. After seven years of searching, sketching, and painting, I signed the final painting of twelve.”
Referring to his project, Harold told a reporter, “You can get an idea in about seven seconds, and it can take you seven years to complete it.”
THE EVOLUTION OF AN ARTIST
Harold’s not the first South Carolina artist to transition from sign painting to art. The late Jim Harrison worked as a painter of Coca Cola signs before turning his brush to railroad stations, churches, oneroom schoolhouses, country stores, covered bridges, and farm buildings. Artists like Branham and Harrison leave records of what was in a world rushing to embrace all things new.
Harold’s path to painting began early in life. A childhood box of crayons pointed him toward art. (He still recalls the smell of the box of crayons issued at school in the first grade.) In 1963, a teacher at Eau Claire High School placed the first brush in Harold’s hand. “I was in the tenth grade. She showed me how to mix colors and how to use the brush.”
In 1966 Mid-South Industries hired Harold as a sketch artist for illuminated signs. “There I worked closely with South Carolina artist John Madcharo and learned graphic and studio art. I picked up hand-lettering skills under the watchful eye of Jim Brownlee.”
In 1972 Carter-Miot Indiana acquired Harold’s company and the economy soon faltered. Around 1976 a reduction in force motivated Harold to start a solo career as a sign painter. “I learned a great deal about business as well as the true meaning of the term ‘starving artist.’”
In the early 1980s Harold began hiding paws in his work. “It was in the early 1980s that I got a verbal commitment from the University of South Carolina to do hand lettering for their motor pool. I redesigned the athletic buses, shuttle buses, campus police cars, and all the hand lettering they needed.”
Harold bleeds Clemson orange. He mowed tiger paws in the field across from his home, and he assumed a clandestine role as a Tiger fan while working with USC. “I was compelled to hide tiger paws on the athletic buses when I found a good spot. Thus, was the beginning of the hidden paws on a lot of my work today.”
Early 1980s still, change was afoot thanks to technology, and Harold faced a decision. “The computer took its toll. With the evolution of technology, hand lettering became extinct almost overnight. In the back of my mind, I always wanted to paint the things I saw, remembered, and loved.”
In 1981 Harold gave his sister a Christmas gift, a painting of the train depot in Prosperity, their mother’s hometown. “I didn’t have the money to buy her a suitable gift for her new house.” Harold borrowed money from his dad and made prints of the depot for sale to the public. “Those prints are now sold out and every person that has one also has my sincere gratitude.”
The path to the future lay before him clean and clear. Still, life as an artist proved challenging. “Sometimes on my own and with rare commissions I’d have another painting headed to the printing press. Along with the financial assistance of my late friend, Maxie Floyd, I’d have another print for public sale.”
The ghost of the starving artist refused to vanish. Harold had to do something in order to eat, make land payments, and pay “those greedy insurance people.” Enter John Deere. “I found that mowing grass was better than painting because in two weeks the grass would grow back and I could cut it again.”
Harold no longer hides tiger paws on his work but you just might find a palmetto tucked away somewhere. When he’s not illustrating a disappearing Southland, say a man plowing with a mule, he rides his Harley looking for Southern scenes. A true folk artist, Harold Branham preserves the past and joining his oeuvre is “The River.”
A YEAR ON THE RIVER
Harold brings a whimsical, homespun take to each month on The River.
Cold January brings us a full moon rising that casts silver light across the water. Wateree Moonshine—“A full moon is as sweet as honey on a biscuit. At least once a month, the folks on The River get a good taste of Wateree Moonshine.”
February takes us to the dam Duke erected. Wateree Electric—“James Buchanan, Duke’s visionary for electric power, made it a reality for South Carolina.”
March brings a moody sunset. The sun’s sinking and dark clouds fill the sky. Wateree Closed—“Except for the night fishing and party boats The River closes at sundown. Folks will retire to their lounge chairs and grills with the setting of the sun. As they ponder through memories of a day on The River, plans are already being made for another day at Wateree.”
April paints The River blue. Wateree Sky—“Along with big water comes a big sky. There are many places on The River that will provide these spectacular extravaganzas for one’s amazement. The clouds will provide delights for the imagination and the big open water will supply the adventurous spirit … You will find there is no sky like a Wateree Sky.”
May brings us a pair of palmettos overlooking a dock. Wateree State—“South Carolina designated the palmetto as the official state tree in 1939. The palmetto was used to construct a fort at Fort Moultrie on Sullivan’s Island in 1776. The palmetto logs were able to absorb the impact of the British cannon balls, contributing to the defeat of the British fleet. Although the palmetto is native to the coast, it is often used to adorn the yards and shoreline of Lake Wateree.”
June captures a lone fisherman standing on a bridge. Wateree Catch & Fry Club—“There’s a whole lot of fishin’ going on at The River. Not everyone has the fortune of owning or having access to a lot, or better yet a dock. Fairfield County is one of the last places you are allowed to fish off a bridge. The gentleman in this painting is doing the natural thing with a natural bait on a natural pole. And tonight he will do the natural thing with his fish, eat ’um, because he is a member of the ‘Catch and Fry Club.’”
July brings white sails on deep blue water. Wateree Breeze—“A sail without wind is like being up the creek without a paddle. To view The River is always a blessing, but there ain’t nothing like viewing it on a Wateree Breeze.”
August seats you in the stern overlooking a boat bumper. Wateree Ride—“Anyone fortunate enough to take a boat ride will always find there is a hypnotic trance attached to the churning of the water, along with the low-idle vibrations of the boat motor, while mesmerized looking at where you’ve been. Once you come down from this mental high, you realize you have been taken for a Wateree Ride.”
September showcases rocks resembling surfacing whales. Wateree Rocks—“The River is host to a whole lot of fishin’, swimmin’, boat ridin’, and partying. There are big boats with big speakers and all kinds that can be enjoyed for miles around. From all these sounds you can truly say that Wateree Rocks.”
October presents a wide vista with foothill-like ridges on the distant horizon. Mid-river a peninsula-like beach juts into blue water. Wateree Beach
“The shoreline of The River consists of just about anything you can imagine. It can range from a red clay bank with snarled roots that only a snake can move through, to large rocks and thick woods. Every now and then one will be able to find a nice, soft and sandy Wateree Beach.”
November brings a burst of autumn color. Wateree Fire—“Every season brings a fresh new look to The River. The fall is especially refreshing, with relief from the summer heat and the changing of the leaves with their exciting arrangement of colors. There are times when the reflection of the leaves almost appears as though the Wateree is on fire.”
December presents a rare snow-covered dock in a gray lake. Wateree Christmas—“The old timers would always refer to Lake Wateree as “The River.”
The River was home to many Native American villages for it provided a good food source for their existence. The shoreline today is adorned with many docks attached to fine homes for those blessed to live there. The old river does not have to celebrate alone anymore for there are thousands of Christmas lights to join in the joyous season.”
Harold Branham. He turns memories into art. What gave us this artist? A childhood box of crayons, painting signs for a sign company, and a deep yearning to paint what he loves—the past. Appreciate the vision, heart, and art of Harold Branham, a Blythewood original
Lake Wateree, South Carolina
HAROLD BRANHAM
The lakeshore rests under a blanket of snow.
BY BETH PETERSON
Peer Into the Past
GO ON A WINTER ANTIQUING EXCURSION
We southerners are fortunate in that, for much of our beloved region, winter is often little more than a long, dizzying flirtation with springtime. Notwithstanding a few typical markers of winter—the lengthening of shadows, the shortening of days, and the weaker sunlight peeking tiredly askance through leafless branches—winter in the South is not often associated with activity-altering weather. At its worst, one chilly, gray, overcast day will send us Southerners running to our closets for sweaters and wool socks. We relish the change in season and wardrobe.
But once the holiday festivities have subsided, even the fuzziest garments and steamiest cups of peppermint tea begin to lose their novelty. The days stack like stones, one on top of another. Morning and evening commutes become indistinguishable. We begin to feel ambivalent about the change of season and bewail the lack of distraction. It can make for a long, dull season, and a wintertime outing might be just the thing to break up the monotony.
Go ahead and throw on the fuzzy sweater. Brew the peppermint tea. But put it in a travel mug and get in your car. Drive to the outskirts of town. Better yet, leave town entirely. Where are you heading? To some of the South’s most charming and out-of-the-way antique shops.
OPPOSITE
RELICS OF THE PAST
Really, there’s no better time to go antiquing than in the middle of winter. There’s something about an overstuffed antique store that awakens the senses and the subconscious from the stupor of successive granite-gray days.
Peer through the storefront windows of any antique store worth its salt, and you will see a dust mote or two float by. This is your signal that something—some long-lost thing—awaits you inside. As you push open the door, the tinkle of bells serves as prelude to the sights and smells within. The mingling scents of leather and old books rouse a murmuration of memories. A single candy dish evokes entire epochs of childhood recollections. Lift a milk-glass hen gingerly off her “nest” and you’ll swear you just heard your mother’s nervous gasp. Lest you break your great-aunt’s beloved knick-knack, you replace the lid, unsure whether to laugh or cry, as perhaps one or both of these dear relatives now live only in your heart. A longer glance at a print that used to hang in your grandmother’s kitchen and a quick perusal of a stack of old children’s books are often all it takes to snap you back to a version of yourself that knew how to wonder. Where else can we find relics of our past interspersed with pieces of ourselves all in one location?
Though these shops are plentiful, by no means are they a dime a dozen. On Main Street in Laurinburg, South Carolina, for example, you’ll find a delightfully quirky store called Antiques, Arts and Oddities. From the sacred to the silly, you’ll find a veritable treasure trove of curios from your childhood (and that of your parents and grandparents). The comforting lilt of southern voices punctuate the air as you wander past heirloom wedding gowns, aluminum Christmas trees, and a healthy Pyrex collection. You could spend hours poring over every nook and cranny of the typesetters’ boxes hung flush to the wall to house everything from inexplicably small ceramic rabbits to dollhouse-sized pots and pans.
Hamilton House, in Florence, South Carolina, feels more like visiting your prim and proper grandmother whose impeccable taste in lamps, pottery, and Chinese artwork will leave you feeling like you’ve spent an afternoon at high tea. The house, an artifact in its own right, is full of beautiful antiquities begging to tell their stories. From the working grandfather clock to the four poster bed, this well-stocked store overflows with history while remaining bright, cheery, and welcoming.
THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE PAGE: ALL PHOTOS EXCEPT THE TOP AND BOTTOM LEFT PHOTOS SHOW RELICS OF THE PAST FROM RECLAMATIONS; PHOTOS BY ERICA DE FLAMAND.
OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP AND BOTTOM LEFT: TREASURES FROM ANTIQUES, ARTS AND ODDITIES IN LAURINBURG, SOUTH CAROLINA; PHOTOS BY BETH PETERSON
In Aiken, South Carolina, look for the Aiken Antique Mall on Laurens Street. A larger store, squarefootage-wise, it is neatly sectioned off to display the collections of individual antique curators. Walking from one collection to the next, you’ll quickly realize the personality of each vendor. Some tend to focus on the “horse and hound” culture Aiken is known for, displaying antique bridles, saddles, and other riding paraphernalia. Others tend to take a more personal approach to collecting, peddling boxes full of grandma’s lapel pins, including the brooch you used to play with when you sat next to her in church on Sunday mornings—you know the one—the lacquered metal daisy with the sunshine-yellow petals.
If you’re near Greensboro, Georgia, stop in at the Greensboro Antique Mall and Gallery on Main Street. It’s like walking into an old-fashioned general store. Original wood floors creak their greeting as you inspect a vast collection—upstairs and down—of antique guns, silver, vintage linens, and baseball cards. There’s a whole room dedicated to vinyl, and the upstairs has the feel of an attic, but without the gloom. The entire space is banked with windows, at once comforting and bright.
Granddaddy’s Antique Mall in Burlington, North Carolina, boasts “two acres of antiques under one roof!” Depending on where you are in the cavernous store, you might begin to wonder if you’re in an antique mall or neighborhood-wide estate sale. Old-timey gas pumps, mid-century office furniture, and boxes upon boxes of comic books entice the most reticent buyer. You’ll find things you never knew you always wanted, including that life-size electric lawn nativity scene exactly like the one you used to look for every December in front of the tiny Methodist Church in your hometown.
Luna’s Trading Post in Staley, North Carolina, offers a vintage feast for the eyes. To find it, head west on U.S. 64 from Raleigh past Siler City until you see a field of rusted gas pumps, antique cars, wagon wheels, and metal signs. There are no price tags—just ask owners Danny and Meghan how much they want for the items you’re interested in. You might walk out with an assortment of rusted signs for your shop, a bench made out of car parts for your garage, or a carton of dusty RC Cola bottles for your bar.
In Virginia, drive out to Verona to visit the Factory Antique Mall. At 150,000 square feet, this antique market hosts scores of vendors as well as The Bluebird Café and Bakery. Your day of foraging for tin signage, original art, books, and collectibles needn’t be interrupted foraging for food. You can grab a sandwich and pick up right where you left off.
Whether you’re in the Carolinas, Virginia, or Georgia, a day trip to an antique store brings a jolt of sunshine to the winter-weary soul. Take a friend. Take a sibling. Take that mug of tea. Reminisce. Find a piece of yourself out there in the world and bring it back home.
OPPOSITE PAGE, ALL PHOTOS EXCEPT CENTER ROW: LUNA’S TRADING POST IN STALEY, NORTH CAROLINA, OFFERS DECADES’ WORTH OF NOSTALGIA FOR SALE BY A PRICE THE OWNER DETERMINES. PHOTOS BY TOM POLAND AND ELIZABETH POLAND SHUGG
OPPOSITE PAGE, CENTER ROW: OLD DOORS AND WINDOWS FEATURES AWAIT THEIR BUYER. PHOTOS BY ERICA DE FLAMAND
ELIZABETH POLAND SHUGG
Staley, North Carolina
North Carolina.
Luna’s Trading Post beckons lovers of antiques and nostalgia along U.S. 64 in Randolph County,
BY KALI CROSBY
Speaking to Hearts Through Animals
In 2008 a friend of mine, Don, called from the barn saying he needed help. Every vet he’d called was over an hour away and his horse, Moose, was frantic and couldn’t wait. I told him I’d be there.
Don knew I had graduated from Colorado State University with a degree in Equine Sciences the year before and rather than attending veterinary school afterwards, as I’d planned, my interests had evolved, and I was then studying at the British Columbia College of Equine Therapy. This program was extensive, and one of the modalities I was becoming proficient in was applied kinesiology, also known as muscle testing.
ABOVE: PHOTO OF “ADDIE” BY ERICA DE FLAMAND
LEFT: PHOTO OF “EMMA” BY ERICA DE FLAMAND
Eager to share my newfound tool, I sought out anyone interested in learning, which included Don. We had been practicing muscle testing on the horses at the barn for weeks, using it to determine nutrition, saddle fit, hoof angles and more, but never under pressure.
When I arrived at the stall, Moose was panicked and shaking his head, seemingly desperate to remove something from it. Don and I examined him for any injuries or issues but we found nothing. Moose knew we were trying to help but he was beside himself.
We began muscle testing all possibilities, assuming it was internal as nothing was visible during examination. Despite testing for anything we could think of, nothing was confirmed and we kept guessing.
ABOVE: PHOTO OF “DEEBS” BY ERICA DE FLAMAND
RIGHT: PHOTO OF “SELENE” BY ERICA DE FLAMAND
Next, unlike anything before, I heard Moose say,
“I have a splinter in my ear.”
With wide eyes I looked at Don, “I think he has a splinter in his ear. I ... I heard him say he has a splinter in his ear.”
“What?”
“I ... ”
I reached up my hand to Moose’s swinging head and brushed my finger across the inside of his right ear. There. Was. A. Splinter.
A sliver of treated wood, just over an inch long, was embedded in the fleshy base of his ear. I imagine it lodged there while he was scratching his head on a beam of the barn. Half of the slivered wood was red with blood when I pulled it straight up and out.
Moose was instantly relieved. I was instantly shocked into tears.
Don stood there for a moment, speechless. He placed his arm around my shoulder while tears of disbelief rolled down my face. We were both bewildered and just tried to process what had occurred. Moose comfortably returned to eating his hay. Then I think we might have waited a minute for the strangeness to fade before Don called the vet and told him he no longer needed to come over.
Early the next morning after all the horses were fed and turned out, I went about my normal routine of cleaning stalls—casually dismissing the previous night’s events as a bizarre fluke. As I pushed a wheelbarrow across the aisle-way and walked into Moose’s stall, I felt something brush against my boot. I looked down and it was a rock. A pink rock, in the shape of a heart! I really love rocks and decided it was a thank you gift from Moose, and have it still.
With this, my ability to hear animals began. Since I had been religiously raised and scientifically educated I was simply not prepared for this strangeness. I wondered if I was going crazy and went to get an opinion.
After sharing my experiences with a doctor, she decided I was not going crazy at all and that I had instead discovered a wonderful gift. I asked her what to do with it and, in response, she went to a dry erase board on the wall and began drawing.
First she drew a smiley face. Then she made an arrow from above and down through the face to a heart she drew below it. She said, “God is always trying to speak to people’s hearts.” She next drew hands over the ears and said, “But people don’t listen.”
Finally she drew a dog with a wagging tail beside the smiling face. Then a second arrow, this time extending from above, through the dog to the heart. She explained, “God wants you to speak to people’s hearts through their animals.”
She told me to keep exploring this gift. I’ll always treasure her explanation and encouragement.
THE PINK ROCK PHOTO COURTESY OF KALI CROSBY
It was only a few weeks later, I was braiding at a hunter-jumper horse show, working on a small gray pony’s tail, when the trainer came by and said, “Dot redeemed herself yesterday!” So I asked, “Why does she need redeeming?” The trainer replied, “Oh, she’s always spooky on the first day!” and then went about her business.
Dot, the pony, looked back at me and said,
“I am always spooky on the first day!”
I told her, “It’s okay! They make the jumps look scary on purpose to test the bravery of all the ponies, to see who’s the bravest.” It was the first time I heard a horse laugh. Then she asked me, “Do the other ponies know about this?”
This was too sweet! I had to share it with her trainer, who then had me listen to all the ponies in her barn. Each one had something to say!
The following day, someone called me after receiving my number from this trainer and said, ‘I heard you can listen to horses, and I have a stallion with a problem.”
PHOTO OF “LOLA” BY ERICA DE FLAMAND
Out of my mouth, I heard the words, “The third nail on the outside of my right front hoof is killing me. Pull it. Pack it. Soak it. Please, anything.”
And so I listened to his horse over the phone, something I hadn’t known was possible. The young man called me back the next day to tell me he had taken his horse to the farrier and pulled the shoe. They had, in fact, found a huge bruise around the third nail of the right front hoof and he said he wanted to pay me.
My phone hasn’t quit ringing since. I continued taking calls and started visiting barns for the next two years on a donation basis, while also maintaining my riding lesson business. After this time I began working more formally as an animal communicator, and eight years later I gave up teaching riding to work full time in my new career.
Kali Crosby is an animal communicator and owner of Animal Listening With Kali. Learn more about her services at animallisteningwithkali.as.me. Her story continues in our Conversation interview on page 60.
LEFT: PHOTO OF “CALLIE” BY ERICA DE FLAMAND
RIGHT: PHOTO OF “DIEGO” BY ERICA DE FLAMAND
A SKEPTIC’S CALLS WITH KALI
BY ERICA DE FLAMAND
I learned about Kali Crosby one day when I was visiting a training barn. The owner of a young horse was telling her trainer that an animal communicator had said her horse’s third rib on the left side was “out” and that was the reason she acted uncomfortable. I remember eavesdropping on this conversation, and then asking the trainer later if she thought that could really be true. Could someone be that specific over the phone, not seeing or putting hands on this horse? The owner had a vet (who also happened to be an equine chiropractor) come out a few days later, and as it turns out, the horse’s third rib was out of alignment.
I’ve had horses in my life since I was a child, and now I manage the care for a herd of 16. They are beloved equines in our therapy program, and the relationships they build with humans who are living with a disability or navigating trauma are life-changing. I believe in the power of a connection between humans and animals, so it should seem obvious that we can talk to them on another plane, right?
Well you should know, I’m a skeptic. True to my Enneagram 6—which is quite literally called “The Skeptic” (look it up)—I come from a family who had careers in the sciences, and also the arts. I was not raised in a religious household. And so here I sit, straddling the line of not believing that someone can talk to my horse over the phone without scientific research, and yet so desperately wanting it to be possible.
A few years and countless hours on the phone later, I’m a believer.
I tend to go into every call with Kali hoping she will prove to me all over again that it’s real. And she does. I keep details to myself that I know to be true, so that my brain and my heart can be convinced once more when they come up. I have colleagues and friends listen in so I’m not the only one hearing the conversation. And every single time, I’m reminded that I should just let go of my skepticism. Here are a few notable anecdotes from some of our calls.
Margaux , a mule we rescued from a very traumatic situation, reverted to being feral and untrusting. In a desperate effort to understand her better, we called Kali. In that call, Margaux asked us to stop telling other people her story, as it was retraumatizing her each time. We made an effort to stop, and almost instantly, Margaux allowed us to work with her. This was not only a powerful thought as it relates to Margaux, but also as we work with clients in mental health sessions.
Willow, a fiesty red-headed miniature horse, was known for squealing and kicking up her hind feet in a big way at almost every human and animal she met—everytime. Except for Margaux.
MARGAUX
Through Kali, Willow told us: “I don’t need to yell at Margaux because she has big ears and she thinks all of my ideas are good ones.” Willow also told us that she had been handled roughly as a baby, and that is why she kicked out so much—it was the only way her “voice” was heard and her space was safe. We have since changed how we move around Willow, and it has been years since she has kicked up those little heels in our direction.
STRAWBERRY
Strawberry , an elderly pony with a long history of abuse and neglect, told me directly to take a tincture known as Red Chestnut. “You worry about things too much.” She wasn’t wrong.
Kona , a sensitive Quarterhorse who had connected deeply with one of our teen clients at the farm, told Kali that she loves “when we all sit around and draw pictures.” Kali would have had no way of knowing that this client’s sessions involved her drawing incredible animae-style illustrations in her sketchbook with Kona looking over her.
CLIENTMENTIONED,
Fleur , a stunning black Friesian mare who has no respect for one’s personal space, said her herdmates think “she talks a lot and has a funny voice.” Also, that she loves her “job” and takes it very seriously. If you met Fleur, you would believe nothing less. Through talking with Fleur via Kali, we also identified and learned about several old injuries that flare up from time to time, and how to help manage those. Our vet validated these findings.
While many of our calls are funny, light-hearted, and insightful, some of the most important ones have been around end-of-life care for our animals.
Honey , a beloved goat who unexpectedly passed away, told Kali that “it was an accident” and he can’t wait to “come back as another goat.” A necropsy discovered that his death was indeed an accident.
Scout , a unique horse with a big personality, had been dealing with health issues and a critical hoof injury due to running away from a low-flying airplane (not kidding). The vet would come out every six weeks or so and evaluate his comfort level and happiness. Scout would lay down a lot, but he would get up anytime a person would come by. Fearing that a compassionate release from life was coming soon, I called Kali for her to talk to him. He said, “I’m ready to go if I lie down when the vet comes.”
FLEUR
A few weeks later, Scout had been up, walking around freely on the barn lawn, and grazing a bit. The vet’s truck pulled in, and I watched that horse intentionally walk over and lay down right next to him. Our vet confirmed that it was time to let him go as his condition had progressed.
Lola , a giant gray mare (who was my personal horse), was approaching 26 years of age—old for a horse of her size, with a performance background. She was covered in melanomas, the plight of many gray horses. Assuming that there were also internal melanomas, I asked Kali if she had any insight as to how Lola was doing, and if I should start planning for her end end-of-life so she wouldn’t suffer. Lola said, “Don’t bury me until I’m ready. But I’ll let you know when that is.” Four years later, at 30 years old, that big girl ate her breakfast on a cold February morning, laid down, and passed away. She let me know when it was time, on her own terms. That evening, as I was spending time with her pasture mate, Selene, a small green orb appeared on the photos. No doubt, it was her.
At this point, I’ve lost track as to how many animals I’ve talked to with Kali. There are many, many more stories. I recommend her to everyone I know, and at least six people close to me also call Kali on a regular basis. Blind ponies. Deaf dogs. Rescued cats. Deceased goats. All beloved creatures that have someone in their life listening and understanding much closer than before.
It should be said that I don’t make critical care decisions for our animals based solely on my conversations with Kali. I still very much rely on veternarians and experience. But what I do know, is that learning what our animals are saying through her, allows me to look at complex situations with a different perspective. I pay better attention to the little things, I try approaches that I might not have done so otherwise, and I’m a better advocate for their wellbeing. And perhaps most importantly, my belief in the depth of relationships we can have with animals is validated.
The ability to talk to your pets ... it becomes addicting. Kali told me once that we can all learn how to be animal communicators like her. While I find that hard to believe—she has a true gift—I do recognize that my ability to notice what my animals are telling me has become finely tuned. And that alone is worth every penny and every minute of this skeptic’s time on the phone.
Erica
de Flamand is
the executive director at Equuvation Therapy + Education Center
ERICA DE FLAMAND
Waxhaw, North Carolina
Lola, a gray Hanoverian mare, is illuminated by the setting sun through the barn. Lola is mentioned in the story on the previous pages.
Backroad Portfolio’s exclusive guide to getting there the long way
CREATED BY THE BACKROAD
PORTFOLIO STAFF
Backroads transport us to the places in-between. This regularly occurring feature takes you to and from two southeastern destinations via winding rural roads lined with charming small towns, captivating landscapes, historic structures and, in this particular journey, homes and businesses recovering from a devastating hurricane. Our winter excursion takes you from Lenoir, North Carolina, down to Pickens, South Carolina—a corridor lined with American history and timeless beauty. Discover cozy cafés and tea shops, acclaimed wineries and breweries, an iconic overlook, artisan shopping, southern-style dining, and more.
The southbound drive from Lenoir to Pickens is 3 hours, 44 minutes, and 142 miles, compared to the journey back, which is 4 hours, 21 minutes, and 159 miles. We recommend booking a midpoint overnight stay so you can fully enjoy the journey. Be sure to check drivenc.gov for possible road closures and route delays.
NOTE: Upon publication of this issue, we’ll share the link to both Google Maps routes online.
PHOTO: A GOLDEN HOUR AERIAL VIEW OF A WINDING WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA MOUNTAIN ROAD IN THE SNOW. BY EIFEL KREUTZ - STOCK.ADOBE.COM.
Main Street Magic Cafe facebook.com/mainstreetmagiccafe
Kick off your adventure with a southern, home-cooked meal. Enjoy breakfast all day or lunch during the afternoon hours at this popular Lenoir establishment. Choose from pancakes, burgers, fried chicken, and other comfort foods in a casual environment.
113 N. Main Street, Lenoir, North Carolina
Perry’s Berry Winery perrysberrys.com
Beauty and blueberries come together for a unique winery experience in Morganton. Relax with friends and family inside or soak up the scenic surroundings outside in covered seating warmed by a nearby fire pit. Try the flagship Blueberry semi sweet wine or award-winning Blueberry Dry. You can also enjoy blackberry, mango, muscadine, peach, pear, scuppernong, and strawberry wines.
1136 Browning View Road, Morganton, North Carolina
Some of downtown Rutherfordton’s buildings still stand just as they did 200 years ago, and the town is home to one of the only remaining clusters of antebellum homes. It’s also the final resting place of many Civil War soldiers. One of the more notable attractions is the home of Christopher Bechtler, a jeweler, gunsmith, and minter of currency once-preferred over that of the U.S. Mint.
Main Street, Rutherfordton, North Carolina
A Southern Cup Fine Teas
asoutherncup.com
Enjoy a spot of tea at this boutique tea room offering highquality loose leaf teas and infusions served in traditional china. Afternoon teas are complete with assorted tea sandwiches, scones (served with sweet butter, lemon curd, and jam), assorted desserts, and your choice of tea. Reservations are required. After tea, explore downtown Hendersonville by following the Bearfootin’ Public Art Walk.
1529 Greenville Highway, Hendersonville, North Carolina
Hagood Historic Mill visithagoodmill.com
Not long after you cross over the South Carolina border, go back in time to 1845 to see the state’s oldest operational gristmill in action. This 20-foot wooden water-powered gristmill still grinds grain into flour just as it did nearly 180 years ago. See it for yourself the third Saturday of every month, when gristmill demos are accompanied by live music, cultural activities, workshops, and more.
138 Hagood Mill Road, Pickens, South Carolina
Burning Brick Tavern burningbricktavern.com
As day one of your journey comes to a close, enjoy a meal at the Burning Brick Tavern. Choose from American fare ranging from wings and fried shrimp, to quesadillas and burgers. The tavern posts daily specials on its website and offers a full-service bar.
301 E. Main Street, Pickens, South Carolina
COZY STAYS
If you start your trip in Lenoir and end up in Pickens, consider one of these establishments for your overnight stay.
Table Rock Inn Pecan Terrace Bed and Breakfast
4515 Scenic Highway 11, Pickens, South Carolina 207 West 2nd Avenue, Easley, South Carolina tablerockinn.com pecanterracebedandbreakfast.com
HAGOOD HISTORIC MILL, PHOTO COURTESY OF WIKICOMMONS
Family-owned since 1938, this general store offers a nostalgic dining and shopping experience, and is just a short drive from Table Rock State Park and the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Byway. Named for the plentiful pumpkins that once thrived in the area, Pumpkintown, was settled before 1791 but has never been incorporated.
3837 Pumpkintown Highway, Pickens, South Carolina
PUMPKINTOWN GENERAL STORE, CIRCA 1943; PHOTO COURTESY OF FACEBOOK
Jumping Off Rock discoversouthcarolina.com (search for “Lake Jocassee”)
No visit is complete without a visit to this scenic cliff. Jumping Off Rock overlooks Lake Jocassee and offers a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding mountains. You might even catch a glimpse of rare peregrine falcons flying above. To get there, you’ll need to drive nine miles on a gravel road, so take a truck or SUV if you can.
448 Horse Pasture Road #440, Sunset, South Carolina
Downtown Brevard explorebrevard.com
In addition to providing nearby access to 250 waterfalls and 100,000 acres of public lands, Brevard has been called one of the “coolest towns in America” by Budget Travel. It offers diverse restaurants, craft breweries, boutique shops, and a live music scene. Popular restaurants include The Square Root and The Falls Landing. Family-owned Brevard Brewing has been in operation since 2012 and is a popular spot to grab a cold one.
95 West Main Street, Brevard, North Carolina
RIVER ARTS DISTRICT; PHOTOS COURTESY OF VISITNC TWISTED VINE WINERY, DOWNTOWN LENOIR; PHOTO COURTESY OF VISITNC
River Arts District
riverartsdistrict.com
Asheville’s famed River Arts District suffered devastating losses when Hurricane Helene tore through the region, but the community began working toward recovery right away and was able to launch a soft opening November 9. The district continues to make progress. Stop by the galleries and consider making a donation to assist in its continuing recovery efforts.
191 Lyman Street, Asheville, North Carolina
Oak and Grist Distillery Company
oakandgrist.com
Drive over to Black Mountain for a pour of whiskey or gin at one of North Carolina’s few 100% grain-to-glass distilleries. Oak and Grist Distillery Company’s batch whiskey and gin creations are crafted with malted barley grown within 60 miles of the distillery. Its infusions celebrate Appalachian farmers, producers and artisans. Try the American Malt Whiskey or the Genever, known as “the whiskey drinker’s gin.”
1556 Grovestone Road, Black Mountain, North Carolina
Twisted Vine Winery
twistedvinewinerync.com
Since you’re already in the “spirit,” save time for a stop at Twisted Vine Winery for tasting flight of wines like the Twisted Blend, which combines Chardonnay, Viognier, and Riesling; and the Twisted Red, which combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, and Merlot. You’ll also find pairing snacks on the menu.
487 Legion Road, Lenoir, North Carolina
COZY STAYS
If you’re starting in Pickens and plan to stay overnight in the Morganton/Lenoir area, book a stay at this quaint bed and breakfast in downtown Lenoir.
The Highland Thistle Bed and Breakfast
1344 Harper Avenue, Lenoir, North Carolina thehighlandthistle.com
Roan Mountain, Tennessee Morning reveals an alpenglow view along the Appalachian Trail’s Round Bald in the Roan Highlands.
BY SKISERGE1 — STOCK.ADOBE.COM
PHOTO BY SKISERGE1
PHOTO
Listen … Your Animals are Talking to You A conversation with animal communicator Kali Crosby
INTRODUCTION AND INTERVIEW
BY ELIZABETH POLAND SHUGG PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF KALI CROSBY
If you read our “Talking to Hearts Through Animals” feature on page 40, you already know how Kali Crosby became an animal communicator. She takes us back to the moment she knew she could communicate with and for animals. Here, we continue the conversation. Crosby talks about what communication sessions are like and shares some of her experiences and memorable conversations with dogs, horses, cats, and other animals.
Walk us through a typical communication session. What information do you present to the client to help them understand how the process works, and what information do you require to “tune in” to the animal you’ve been asked to communicate with? Also, how do you mindfully and emotionally prepare for it?
At the start of calls with new clients I take a few minutes to explain what can be expected during the session. It would take far too long to explain “how it works” but I do like people to know I’m quickly summarizing “movies” and the physical sensations I receive. I even ride the horses in my mind and describe how it feels to me and to the horse.
It’s important for everyone to know that they can always interrupt me whenever they like because sometimes animals will fixate on a topic or carry on about food. It is also possible for animals to answer questions in people’s heads, but since I only hear the animal’s answer it can be awkward, so I make sure to mention this, too.
Then I have these questions to help me tune-in to each animal. I ask: (1) the animal’s name and age, (2) how long everyone has known each other, and (3) if they are together right now. During this I’m listening to hear if the animal is participating. I find many of them start sharing before we even finish these questions, but if they don’t start on their own then I will ask where they’d like to begin. It’s fun to see how many animals will answer a majority of the people’s mentally prepared questions before they even have a chance to ask them.
I love my work and it comes very easily, but I do try to stay grounded and prepared by spending most of my time outside and with my own animals. I’m an artist, an avid gardener, and an enthusiastic student of many things so, fortunately, I’ve never been bored. I also drink a tremendous amount of water. I think all of this contributes to me being a good communicator.
What purpose do clients typically hire you for regarding animal communications?
Most people reach out wanting to hear about their animal’s physical and emotional well-being, including food preferences, behavior and training issues, and even their animal’s histories. Some clients call seeking their horse’s work or equipment preferences. Many people reach out just for fun, eager to hear their animals’ thoughts and amusing anecdotes.
Share some examples of the kinds of communications you engage in with animals, and whether these communications tend to foray into additional subjects, beyond what the client asked you to focus on?
Each session really is unique and I don’t put many restrictions on how people choose to use my skills. Allowing everyone to inquire about anything and everything has really worked in my favor because their interests and curiosities have helped me to explore and learn so much about animals, people and even the universe (according to cats!)
What are some of the more unusual or memorable conversations you’ve had with animals— whether they were within the realm of what the client wanted you to focus on, or something completely different? What made these communications special?
There are so many! In fact, as I think about it, in each interaction something new and interesting or endearing is shared. But there are some that really stand out.
Once, a beautiful bay mare told her teenage girl, “You are the epitome of love and everything you do is love, and whenever you act outside of love, you’re not being yourself.”
Another time a retired gentleman called to listen to his two elderly dogs. One dog talked about their daily routine and then announced, “We don’t have to worry about being behind schedule—with all this construction, we don’t really have anything else to do!” The man quickly asked me, “You know we’re doing construction?” And the dog abruptly said, “This lady doesn’t know anything!” Which was entirely accurate.
“I encourage people to remember that behavior is communication. Be openminded in your observations. ... I think animals are actually asking us a lot of questions and appreciate our answers.”
Then once I was listening to a couple’s chickens and one hen said she loved riding in the car. I was surprised to hear this but the woman quickly replied, “Oh good! That was one of my questions, because we take our chickens with us every weekend to our lake cottage.”
One of my favorite experiences happened when a family called to listen to their two dogs. They had an old English sheep dog, a female, who had basically raised their three children. She spoke to each family member’s hopes and dreams. It was beautiful. At the end, they were all saying, “Wow!” and then the father asked, “What does our other dog think about us?” Their young lab mix rescue replied, after some consideration, “You all smell real good! Especially (the boy’s) socks!” It was adorable!
What differences in communication styles have you noticed among the various species you’ve communicated with and for?
Each animal’s personality really comes through. Some animals speak freely on every topic imaginable. Others may not tell you anything about what you already know, especially if you already know everything about it. Much like you wouldn’t tell your mom your wrist hurts if she drove you to the ER when you broke it. Animals do answer questions about these topics when asked, however.
Animals in general ask and share about smells far more than might be expected.
I do find each species has their own unique priorities. Dogs tend to be concerned with our comfort and joy in life as much as they are with protection, their jobs, and food. Horses literally and figuratively carry us to our goals, keeping us grounded and invigorated simultaneously. Of course, it’s impossible to generalize about cats as they are vastly different from all other species. Sometimes I joke that some cats may be aliens since I’ve had to learn the basics of quantum physics to understand some of them.
Can you offer the average person tips for how to pick up on what their pet may be trying to tell them, as well as how they can communicate back to their animal?
I encourage people to remember that behavior is communication. Be open-minded in your observations. Also, I think animals are actually asking us a lot of questions and appreciate our answers. I find the best way to communicate with animals is directly, honestly, and simply. Tell them what you know about what is going on. Such as, “I am going to pick up your foot and I’m already being careful.”
I often hear myself saying to clients, “If you think of something three times, you need to do something about it!” because animals are constantly communicating with us intuitively. Do you find yourself repeatedly considering the idea of taking your dog to the chiropractor, or wondering whether your horse’s saddle is causing distress, or suspecting issues with your cat’s diet? Trust your intuition and delve deeper. You might uncover potential truths.
Really, I feel most people who enjoy interacting with animals already have a good sense of what they’re trying to share. It seems like more than half my work is in validating what the client already knows.
If you don’t know what an animal is “talking” about, tell them so. Such as, “I don’t understand what you mean.” They usually try harder or you will think of the answer (due to the animal’s intuitive communication).
It’s fun to know that all dogs yawn when they agree with what we’ve said. Yawning basically means, “I know!” or “You’re right!” And horses typically snort, which sounds like sneezing, when they’re agreeing with us. It’s delightful!
What goals do you have as you continue to grow and develop your animal communication skills—as a pet owner and business owner?
I’m excited to currently be crafting my first book for equestrians and have also been enjoying raising some new, young horses, which keeps me busy and extremely entertained.
ERICA DE FLAMAND
Duck, North Carolina
Aida, an English Pointer, surveys North Carolina’s Outer Banks during a winter holiday.
Sleeping Beneath Seashells
Some of you share my interest in forgotten cemeteries. You write me and say so. You silent ones who don’t venture along the backroads would be surprised to see how many cemeteries hide in woods. When you see a clear-cut surrounding a stand of trees on a hill, chances are good a family plot lies there. I know because I’ve checked out many a copse and discovered secret family plots.
Yes, I visit old cemeteries whenever I can. Lest you think thoughts of death consume me, understand that I find cemeteries photogenic and a tonic to modern ills. Whenever I spend time in untended graveyards I discover sentiments and farewells mourners hoped someone would read. I read them and I come away a better man.
It’s easy for me to understand why a novelist might build a series of stories around cemeteries. That’s where we will all end up, be it beneath a granite stone, a slab, in an urn on a mantel—a one-man graveyard—or beneath some aspect of the natural world, a splendid cedar, for instance. When we’re finally there, when the roll is called up yonder, we’ll be, well, somewhere. I will be in a plot alongside family members just off Georgia Highway 220 in Lincoln County, Georgia.
A woman and I were talking about the urge to visit old graveyards. “You know,” she said, “there’s one unassailable truth in this transient life.”
STORY AND PHOTOS BY TOM POLAND
“What would that be?”
“If you want peace, go to a graveyard.”
She’s right. Yet again did I train my eyes on a place where people sleep the deep slumber of eternity. It was a Wilkes County cemetery whose location would be hard to find without a guide. My sister told me about this small cemetery deep in woods.
“You’ve got to see it,” she said.
We set out. Down a state highway into countryside we drove, then down an old road, and then a dirt road. There it was, the Ware Cemetery. Seashells covered two of its graves. Their grace and singularity struck me. I’ve seen solitary shells upon tombstones plenty of times. The last shell I saw atop a headstone was that of a famous Georgian’s. One white shell with a peach-bloom pink interior sat upon James Dickey’s grave in All Saints Episcopal Church Cemetery, Pawleys Island, South Carolina.
Another story. Some time back I reserved a room at the Marriott City Center down Macon way so I could visit Rose Hill Cemetery, the resting place of Greg and Duane Allman and Berry Oakley III. They sleep just west of the Ocmulgee River as it purls and winds its way seaward by way of a confluence with the Altamaha. I was curious to see where the men who gave fans “Melissa,” “Whipping Post,” “Dreams,” “Jessica,” and “Black Hearted Woman” slept, and I did.
Their resting place opened my eyes to the things people do as a way of paying respect to the departed. I’ve seen rocks and coins on gravesites, and once I saw a pile of devoured hickory nuts upon a tombstone, the accidental memorial of an epicurean gray squirrel. At Rose Hill I saw mushrooms and guitar picks on Duane and Greg Allmans’ gravesites.
Not one seashell, however.
That long Georgia dirt road we traveled? At its end I saw not one stone on a tombstone, not one guitar pick. I saw not one mushroom, but there were those two graves with dirt ridges, or mounds, encased in scallop shells. Cemented into place, the shells provided a protective cover, like a shingled roof, for a practical reason. Mounds of dirt distinguished some African-American graves. Problem was the mounds of fresh dirt washed away when deluges struck. A roof of shells, like house shingles, shunted away the water.
I looked into this custom and learned it was a practice in the South during Reconstruction. African Americans placed shells on graves and a few theories attempt to explain this tradition. One? Symbolism. The sea brought them to America and when they died the sea would return them to Africa. Shells symbolized the next great crossing as well, the one to the Promised Land, a more buoyant journey than the grimness of ferrying souls over the Styx to the underworld.
When it comes to sleeping beneath seashells, you’ll find seashell-covered graves in white cemeteries too. It’s believed poor whites took up the tradition. Layers of scallop shells offered a tasteful, affordable alternative, provided shells were somehow on hand. So, might another belief explain how shells arrived inland hundreds of miles from the sea? Surely families didn’t journey to the coast just to gather shells? Read on, for another story explains how shells ended up in cemeteries far from the coast.
During the hard, lean times of Reconstruction salt was hard to come by. A vast source of salt waited patiently for salt-making crews. A community’s saltseeking parties would make an annual trip to the coast. Down many a Salt Highway they journeyed, barrels jostling in their wagons. There among rolling breakers, there, perhaps, among estuaries, they boiled seawater till salt remained. They’d fish and pack their catch in salt, and they’d gather shells for graves. Protection from the elements, a symbol of crossing over as spirits go, and sustenance, a by-product of gathering salt, all came together to give us graves covered in seashells.
Those who sleep beneath shells? You won’t find them in a corporate memory garden, and you won’t
find them alongside an interstate. You’ll find them in a place called obscurity somewhere down a back road, in a patch of woods, and in small plots far from the hustle and bustle of contemporary life.
Shell-covered graves are out there. The old seashellblessed cemeteries are winsome and they don’t depend on solar lights, plastic flowers, or marble mausoleums for their charm. They’re here because white and black men made pilgrimages for brilliant white salt and white shells. Their shells have aged and turned gray but their magnificence and significance remain ageless and serene.
That woman was right. “If you want peace, go to a graveyard.”
I’ll continue to visit forgotten places where the departed sleep, seashells or not. And deep inside, shoving rational thinking aside, I believe those who sleep know I visit them. Moreover, they know I bring them to the attention of others one more time. And they appreciate my efforts. No one wants to be forgotten, especially the dead. To be completely forgotten is to never have existed at all.
Durham, North Carolina
Mystic Farm & Distillery’s award-winning bourbon is made from 100 percent local grain.
CREATE A BOURBON COLLECTION
Bourbon enthusiasts develop an appreciation for different distillers’ ingredients, processes—even bottle designs. They know hours went into every detail of how the bourbon and its bottle was crafted, and understand the importance of deliberately savoring each sip.
Perhaps that’s why so many of them become bourbon collectors.
“My father bought me a bottle during a visit to my home,” says Scott Reynolds of Chapel Hill, North Carolina. “I had little exposure to bourbon, or even whiskey, at that time, but I was curious. So, I purchased a couple other bottles over the next few weeks and it took off from there.”
That was in 2021. Nearly four years later, Reynolds has accumulated hundreds of bottles in his collection.
“When the bourbon collection was overtaking the pantry, it was time to build a bar, which has transformed a storage space into a home SpeakEasy,” Reynolds says. “Building furniture is my hobby, so a few boards and some iron elements, along with furnishings from around the house and from the attic, completed the look.”
There is no preordained template for how to collect or display bourbon, but The Barrell Tap, an online bourbon distributor, boils it down to three tips.
PHOTOS: SCOTT REYNOLDS, SHOWN ON PAGE 71 WITH HIS WIFE LYNN, STARTED COLLECTING BOURBON AFTER RECEIVING A BOTTLE FROM HIS DAD.
STORY AND PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH POLAND SHUGG
Decide if You Will Drink It or Display It
Some collectors like to sample the bottles in their collection, while others are more interested in displaying rare and exclusive bourbons. Or, you can do a little of both. If you’re primarily a sampler, purchase bottles with unique expressions or single-barrel curing. If you’re displaying it, look for bourbons produced in limited numbers, since the bottle’s prestige is more important than its flavor profile.
Try It Before You Buy It
Most distillers offer a tasting room or bar with bourbon cocktails in addition to straight-up samples, so you can try a small pour before you buy an entire bottle. Seek out bars that serve a variety of bourbons and visit distilleries when they offer a new release, recipe, or limited edition bourbon.
“Spend time developing your palate so you can understand what you like,” Reynolds suggests, adding that his favorites change as he discovers new distilleries. “Once you have a base of interest you can seek bourbons that meet those and expand from there.”
Focus on a Few—or New—Distilleries
You’ll likely spend a fortune if you try to hit every bourbon distillery you discover. Instead, focus on a few that have done well on the auction market or snagged prestigious awards. It might cost a little more, but your purchases will hold their value. Also, consider new or small-batch distilleries, which typically offer exclusive bottles at reasonable prices since they haven’t had time to establish their brand within the market. It may take longer for these investments to become valuable, but your startup costs will be lower.
What makes your bourbon collection unique may not be the bourbon at all.
“For me, it’s a unique space to showcase the collection, personalized (etched) tasting glasses, and related books and magazines,” Reynolds says, adding that the hunt for new bourbon is thrilling, but sharing it is the best part. “A bottle of bourbon that took years to develop,” he says, “deserves to be enjoyed with friends.”
SCOTT AND LYNN REYNOLDS
Bourbon Cranberry Smash
Recipe provided by Scott and Lynn Reynolds
Here’s a bourbon cocktail perfect for any occasion. Trick it up for holiday dinners with a sprig of rosemary, lemon slices, and cranberry garnishes.
Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Pour the bourbon, cranberry juice, fresh-squeezed lemon juice, and simple syrup into the cocktail shaker. Place the lid onto the cocktail shaker, and shake vigorously. Place square-shaped ice in an old fashioned glass. Pour the drink over the ice cube. Garnish with a sprig of rosemary, slice of lemon, and/or frozen cranberries.
“A bottle of bourbon that took years to develop deserves to be enjoyed with friends.”
// SCOTT REYNOLDS
Boneyard Beach at Bulls Island, South Carolina
A Country Club Like No Other
STORY AND PHOTOS BY TOM POLAND
Harold’s Country Club proclaims it is “in the middle of nowhere but close to everywhere.” That’s true. Where, exactly, might you find this legendary haunt? In Yemassee, South Carolina, off Highway 21 at 97 Highway, 17A. It’s close by the Colleton and Jasper County line as well. If you get the feeling this town is a crossroads, well, that is the case. Some, in fact, consider Yemassee the heart of the Lowcountry.
And the heart of the Lowcountry enjoys eminence. Yemassee claims the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Auldbrass, Old Sheldon Church ruins, Frampton Plantation, and a country club like no other. You won’t need clubs; you won’t need a caddy but you might pick up a cue stick. And for sure, a fork, for Harold’s Country Club—“in the middle of nowhere but close to everywhere”—resides in the heart of locals who love a fine meal at an American South original.
I went to see it. I pulled up in front of a sign that’s seen its share of Lowcountry sunlight, sayeth its faded, yellowed plastic. Nonetheless it’s colorful. A grill full of ribs, chicken, and a huge steak fill one side, a frosty mug of beer the other. In the middle is a graphic: a circle around a bespectacled Harold and the words, “Harold’s Country Club … Bar & Grille, Est. 1973.” The likeness of Harold Peeples makes the sign. Entering, I took stock of the place. At the right, front corner of the building stands an old Fire Chief gas pump. Gives the place character. I walked up to the front glass door with a sky blue paper note stuck to the glass: “Benton’s Fresh Boiled Peanuts.” Yep, you could smell salt in the air.
Over between the restrooms, a digital jukebox, TouchTunes, sat idle. Nearby, two dispensers of paper towels sat on a camouflage-covered table. I suspect come October’s cool blue evenings, fluorescent orange deer hunters love this eatery off the beaten path.
Rules caught my eye. “You are required to pay for every steak you order.” In the billiard area—excuse me, poolroom—a list served notice that improper behavior would not be tolerated. A few admonitions: “No Smoking.” “No Hitting Sticks on Tables.” “No Sitting on Pool Tables.” And then, in lowercase, “follow the rules or you will be barred from playing pool.”
On the wall at the bar’s end, some advice: “Win or lose, stick with booze.” At 3:30 p.m., a cast of characters sat around the bar. “Like a scene from Andy of Mayberry,” I mused. Harold’s has to be an oasis to locals. Yemassee is twenty-one miles from Beaufort as the crow flies, eighteen from Walterboro.
On the flatscreen at the end of the bar, a NASCAR race was underway. A black-and-white car flirted with the wall. No one paid it any mind. At the bar’s opposite end, several plastic parrots suspended from the ceiling watched the race. Well, they appeared to.
A boy wearing a red-and-black athletic shirt, no. 15, sat at the bar. I consider Harold’s a family-friendly place. That doesn’t preclude a movie poster in the pool room that features a scantily clad woman with a pair of fabulous legs. The gams promote Bordello of Blood, “Where customers come in, but they don’t come out.” Well, no worries, you’ll come out of Harold’s Country Club in good shape, but know that when you walk in you are stepping in high cotton. A touch of fame attends this venerable old way station. Celebrities and celebrity makers have been here. Harold left us in 2003, but in his day, he had a special friendship with movie mogul Joel Silver, who owns nearby Auldbrass Plantation of Frank Lloyd Wright fame. Joel often stopped by on Sundays to have coffee with Harold.
In 1994, Dennis Hopper transformed Harold’s into a biker’s bar for his movie Chasers. The print world loves the place, too. Coastal Living, Esquire, and Southern Living magazines have all covered Harold’s. Garden & Gun called it one of the best dive bars in the South. So, dive right in.
A BIT OF HISTORY
How did all this come about? Permit me a bit of history—back story, you could say. The family-run business was long a gathering place for the community. What would become Harold’s Country Cub began in the 1930s as a Chevrolet dealership. Harold Peeples bought what had become an oldfashioned garage and gas station in 1973. In the late 1970s, friends and neighbors began a beautiful custom: gathering for covered dish suppers on Thursday nights. Over time, the group began cooking and eating in the garage to avoid bad weather and the gnats and mosquitoes for which the Lowcountry is famed. As Thursday evening gatherings grew, Harold took over the cooking, charging a small amount to cover expenses.
The new car smell of Chevrolet Master’s with 206-cubic-inch engines faded long ago, replaced by delicious food.
Today, Potluck Thursday features a different meal. Fridays you can enjoy Wings and Things, seafood, chicken, steaks, and hamburger baskets, as well as extras such as jalapeño poppers, fries, fried mushrooms, hush puppies, onion rings, and more. Steak Saturday nights usher in steaks, 12- to 14-ounce choice cut ribeyes. Meals include a baked potato, sautéed onions, a salad, and roll. Served at 6:30 or 8 p.m., you must call 843-589-4360 to reserve your steak in advance. Specify: well done, medium well, medium, medium rare, or rare.
When the backroads lead you to Harold’s, your destination is a car place that became an eatery. It’s a tale worth telling, this evolutionary story of cars yielding to growling stomachs beset with hunger pangs. In earlier days, folks moved cars out of the garage to set up tables and chairs. In time, the cars
“Chevy engine smoke gave way to a no smoking atmosphere, a sign of the times.”
left for good. What was the garage’s lube rack is now a “stage” seating area commandeered at times for live music. (Harold built that stage over the “grease rack” in lieu of removing it. How cool it’d be to watch that rack rise with a country band on stage, giving them a platform like no other.)
As the garage evolved into a bar and restaurant, radiator hoses and fan belts stayed put. On May 9, 1999, a big fire changed that, destroying the entire bar area, hoses, belts, and all. Harold rebuilt. Friends donated various artifacts to help restore the unique décor. Fan belts were donated by, well, who else? Fans.
A room for extra seating and private parties morphed into the bar, and Harold’s was up and running within a week, although it would be two weeks before meals could be prepared. Missing the first Thursday potluck was too much. Several customers asked Harold if they could bring covered dishes so everyone could share a meal. The food was back, and the rest, as they say, is history.
But wait. Hold on. We have one more fish to fry. What about that name, Harold’s Country Club?
Well, a tale’s behind that too. Because all work and no play make Harold a dull boy, he devoted much of his time to baseball and softball. He played, coached, umpired, and supported the local softball team. When that team lost its field and needed a place to play, Harold and friends formed the Yemassee Athletic Association. They bought land and built a ballfield across the road beside what today is the Country Club, known then as Peeples Service Station.
After the games ended, announcer Charles Jackson had a custom of sorts, saying, “Now, let’s all go over to Harold’s Country Club for a cool one.” Soon people started calling the business Harold’s Country Club.
You would have liked Harold. Despite all his rules, the man had a heart. Rich or poor, he treated folks the same. He had a reputation for helping people—friends, strangers, stranded motorists, whoever needed a helping hand. He valued good times and wanted everyone to have just that. But then there were all those rules. He didn’t accommodate tomfoolery. In fact, he banned troublemakers from his old Chevy dealership “for life and a day.”
For life and a day. Folks, that sounds a lot like forever. Well, it just sounds like it because it wasn’t quite true. A sincere apology got them back through the door, resurrecting their membership. And you know and I know they had to be grateful. Grateful to be reinstated at Harold’s Country Club down yonder in the middle of nowhere, where breezes stream Spanish moss back like an older woman’s tresses and old oaks tremble when winds press against limbs heavy with resurrection ferns.
Down yonder in Spanish moss land, where a Saturday night carries the aroma of grilling steaks and locals talk about movie stars, old cars, and rules.
LAUREN PRICE
Shenandoah Valley, Virginia
The sun rises over a snow-covered Shenandoah Valley.
LANDSCAPE Canyon hikes, waterscape views, and mountain vistas await.
PROVIDENCE CANYON STATE PARK
Known as Georgia’s “Little Grand Canyon,” Providence Canyon State Park features gullies as deep as 150 feet caused by poor farming practices during the 1800s that, today, provide a beautiful backdrop for photos. You can hike the park’s sandy nature trails any time of year.
South Carolina’s third largest lake touches five counties: Berkeley, Calhoun, Clarendon, Orangeburg, and Sumter. It’s the upper most of two bodies of water that comprise Santee Cooper Reservoir with forested wetlands that form Sparkleberry Swamp. The lake is filled with thousands of stumps, dead tree trunks, and live cypress trees that create a unique waterscape.
Southeast South Carolina lakemarion.net
LAKE MARION
Photography by Nate Rosso
LANDSCAPE Cliffs with vertical markings present a dramatic backdrop.
WHITESIDE MOUNTAIN
This North Carolina landmark along the Eastern Continental Divide has an elevation of 4,930 feet and is estimated to be between 390 million and 460 million years old. Whiteside Mountain features cli s that look like sheets of ice. Hike a two-mile loop for expansive views of the east, south, and west.
Between Highlands and Cashiers, North Carolina Whiteside Mountain Road (S.R. 1600)
Frozen fields, hollows, and mountains capture winter’s beauty.
SHENANDOAH VALLEY
Much of the Shenandoah Valley falls within Shenandoah National Park, which stretches 105 miles from its northern entrance at Front Royal to its southern entrance near Waynesboro. It includes over 200,000 acres of protected lands filled with waterfalls, hollows, fields, and magnificent mountain vistas.
Central to Northeast Virginia nps.gov/shen/index.htm
Nestled in the foothills of the Blueridge Mountains in Stanley, Virginia, Shenandoah Woods is a private 200-acre estate spanning from one ridge line to the next and the valley between. We offer romantic log cabins perfect for couples, lodges for larger groups, and a wedding venue with fantastic views of Virginia’s iconic Shenandoah Valley.
Our winter Designed for Joy giveaway features the Daphne, a $179 value. The Daphne is available in four colors: black, caramel, teal, and cinnamon. Three winners will be chosen!
This sophisticated bag features a luxurious leather that is so soft and smells divine. Two beautiful round resin handles feel smooth in your hands. Or, attach a strap to the D rings on the sides to make it a crossbody.
The Daphne features a curved profile, drop-in zipper closure, and double leather interior pocket. A long zipper allows you to open the bag wide. Hidden magnetic closures in the upper corners keep your bag closed and looking sleek, with or without the zipper closed. The bag has a beautiful sueded interior and Designed For Joy logo imprinted on the center front. A purchase of the Daphne bag provides ten living wage hours for a vulnerable woman.
PRODUCT DETAILS
• Handcrafted in Raleigh, North Carolina
• Measurements: 11.5” width by 13.5” height by 6” diameter
• Available in black, cinnamon, caramel, and teal
• Scratch-resistant, full-grain leather with a soft, pebbled texture
• Made from USA cowhides finished in Mexico
Through March 1, ll out the online form at backroadportfolio.com for a chance to win.
Three winners will be chosen. All items are subject to availability but are in regular production rotation. designedforjoy.com
PHOTOS PROVIDED BY DESIGNED FOR JOY
From gifts for dog lovers to a unique destination for your favorite cocktail, these entrepreneurial creations will inspire you to shop for something different.
PUZZLED PETS
Scrolling Fantasy, $20-$30 scrollingfantasy.com
Looking for a unique artisan gift and conversationstarter? Consider a hand-cut puzzle shaped like the dog its puzzle pieces spell out. All work is cut on a scroll saw in Tazewell, Virginia, then stained. The artist makes other animal shapes as well as a range of fantasy-themed puzzles. Custom work is also available. We found this one at Dragon Con in Atlanta, but you can place an order through Scrolling Fantasy’s Square site any time of year at scrolling-fantasy.square.site/home.
These adorable felt ornaments crafted by Karyn Wolf of Apex, North Carolina, can be hung on door knobs, backpacks, Christmas trees, and gifts. Wolf lovingly sews creative cats, playful pups, vibrant owls, and sparkly flamingos. There are graceful ballet slippers for the dancer in your family, and “canned pickles” for the friend who loves to cook. She can also create custom ornaments. Visit her Etsy shop or email apexwolfs1170@gmail.com to place an order.
Apex, North Carolina
COCKTAIL TARGET
Muddy Footprints coasters, $40.65 per coaster etsy.com/shop/muddyfootprints
These unique rifle bullet casing and shotgun cartridge coasters are created across the pond in the United Kingdom, but available to you via Etsy. In addition to the coasters, Muddy Footprint also crafts trays, wedding glass favors, keyrings, side tables, and an assortment of other products. Suffolk, England
Another product influenced by our cousins across the pond is English primrose—a pale yellow or pink perennial that brightens up a cold day in the Southeast. English primrose blooms in late winter or early spring in zones 4-8, and requires partial shade. It grows up to 12 inches tall and 18 inches wide. Look for seed packets at your local home and garden retailer and plant them now so you can enjoy them later.
Southeastern United States
Columbia, South Carolina
rcphoto@yahoo.com @robertclarkphotography
With over 50 years of experience, South Carolina travel photographer Robert Clark explores the Southeast in search of dynamic imagery. Robert’s fine-art collection is available for purchase as custom-printed artwork for your home or business. To see more of Robert’s artistry, view his Instagram page at @robertclarkphotography. If you’re interested in attending Robert’s photography workshops, email him at rcphoto@yahoo.com for further information.
Enjoy hikes, off-road journeys, wine tastings, and comfort food across the Southeast this winter.
Tour America’s largest home and add on a Biltmore House Backstairs Tour. Explore tranquil nature trails, historic gardens, and the estate’s orchid-filled conservatory. Enjoy a complimentary wine tasting at Antler Hill Winery then take bottles of your favorites home. The “Chihuly at Biltmore” exhibit is included with select ticket options through February 2, and all Biltmore house tickets include free next-day grounds access.
Winter Wonderland at Windrock Park | January 16-20, 2025
Venture Unknown hosts its fourth annual Winter Wonderland in the country’s largest off-road park, which covers 73,000 acres and encompasses 300-plus miles of trails. Enjoy camping, raffles, workshops, trail rides, a chili cook-off, barbecue, and teamworkoriented activities.
Restaurant Week South Carolina | January 9-19, 2025
Various South Carolina cities
restaurantweeksouthcarolina.com
This annual event takes you on a tasting tour of South Carolina’s best cuisine. Explore menus at a wide range of participating restaurants across the Palmetto State—from casual to fine dining options offering fan favorites and multicourse meals.
Indulge in chocolate, enjoy a frosty brew, listen to favorite stories, and celebrate wildlife.
ChocolateFest | January 24-25, 2025
Knoxville, Tennessee
mychocolatefest.com
Experience a day of sweets and gifts from local chocolatiers, bakeries, restaurants, and other vendors. General admission is $15 and a kids pass is $5. Tasting tickets cost $30, or you can upgrade to the $50 After Dark Pass, which comes with an exclusive, adults-only evening Friday, January 24, 6-9 p.m.
Frosty Brew Thru | January 25, 2025
Fredericksburg, Virginia facebook.com/frostybrewthru
This exclusive craft beer, cider, wine, and spirits tasting event is held from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. at the Fredericksburg Fairgrounds. Enjoy brews from across the country, along with various food options.
Garrison Keillor at 80
February 1, 2025
Roanoke, Virginia jeffcenter.org/events/garrison-keillor Hear Garrison Keillor share stories of Lake Wobegon and more at the Jefferson Center. The show starts at 8 p.m. and also features Heather Massie and Richard Dworsky. In addition to Keillor’s favorite stories, the show features music, poems, jokes, and a cheerful presentation of stand-up comedy as he reflects on his generation’s varied experiences.
Southeastern Wildlife Exposition
February 14-16, 2025
Charleston, South Carolina sewe.com
The nation’s premier celebration of wildlife art and the great outdoors awaits at this annual event. Find a painting of your favorite hunting dog breed, shop for handcrafted goods, witness live demonstrations, and taste Lowcountry cuisine. Enjoy DockDogs competitions, attend conservation education activities, and participate in after-hours gatherings.
Check out our calendar at backroadportfolio.com for these events and more!
Watch a parade, savor barbecued ribs, and view antique military vehicles at these festivals.
Mardi Gras by the Sea Parade and Festival | February 22, 2025
Oak Island, North Carolina oakislandnc.gov/events
A themed parade on Keziah Street kicks off a day of mardi gras fun at 11 a.m. From noon to 4 p.m., enjoy food vendors, crafts, a kids zone, and live music by the Old Man Mafia Band at Middleton Park.
Rhythm & Ribs Festival | February 28-March 1, 2025
Tifton, Georgia
tiftonribsfest.com
This annual festival is held at Fulwood Park and features professional and backyard barbecue competitions, kids’ games and activities, arts and craft vendors, food vendors, and live entertainment. The event starts with a kickoff party from 6 to 10 p.m. on February 28, and is followed by a full day of fun on March from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Massanutten Snow Moon Festival | February 28-March 2, 2025
Massanutten, Virginia massresort.com/play/live-events/snow-moon-fest
The Snow Moon Festival features live music, beer and wine tastings, activities for the kids, a 4K on the Fairway, an Arctic Plunge, a torchlight slope parade, fireworks, and more. Event prices vary.
Wings & Things Festival & Fly-In
March 22, 2025
Douglas, Georgia
facebook.com/events/1631277061069732/?_rdr
Spend the day at Douglas Municipal Airport viewing warbirds, antique military vehicles, and a car show. Enjoy food trucks, vendors, a kids area, live entertainment, a hot wings cook-off, and more. The event runs from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Meet the people behind the stories, photography, and art featured in this issue.
Elizabeth Poland Shugg
EDITOR AND CO-CREATOR
Chapel Hill, North Carolina
Born in Lincolnton, Georgia, Elizabeth grew up in nearby Athens exploring 200 acres of woods and farmland originally purchased by her great-great-grandfather in 1910. At age 13, she moved to rural Botetourt County in Southwest Virginia after her mother remarried, but spent her summers in Columbia, South Carolina with her father. She now lives on three acres in rural Chatham County, North Carolina, and enjoys exploring the region’s backroads and small towns. Elizabeth has thirty years of experience as a professional writer and editor, and has served as editor of seven magazines, four of which she helped launch. She and her husband enjoy spending time with their three adult children; hiking with their Brittany, Luna; and traveling backroads to unique destinations.
Erica de Flamand Olin, North Carolina
ART DIRECTOR AND CO-CREATOR
Erica attended the School of Fine Arts at UCONN, and since graduating, has worked as a designer, photographer, and creative director for more than two decades in industries including adventure travel, conservation, finance, national security and defense, and signature event planning. She has been a featured artist in over a dozen gallery installations, received numerous industry awards, and spent four semesters as an adjunct college professor. In addition to cultivating her studio, The Summer House, she launched a nonprofit organization that provides nature-based mental health services and alternative therapies to an underserved area of North Carolina. Erica currently resides off a backroad in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains with her husband, two dogs, and a herd full of horses and donkeys.
Tom Poland
WRITER AND PHOTOGRAPHER
Columbia, South Carolina
Tom Poland writes about the South, its people, its culture, and its natural features. His interests include nature, music, writing, and photography. Tom’s weekly column appears in more than 65 newspapers and online journals, where he reaches 100,000 readers a week. His work also appears in magazines and literary journals. Among his traditionally published books are Georgialina, A Southland As We Knew It; South Carolina Country Roads; and Carolina Bays—Wild, Mysterious, and Majestic Landforms. Tom is an oftrequested speaker, and gives talks throughout Georgia and the Carolinas. In 2018, South Carolina Governor Henry McMaster conferred upon Tom South Carolina’s highest civilian order, the Order of the Palmetto, and stated: “His work is exceptional to the state.” Learn more at tompoland.net.
Robert Clark
PHOTOGRAPHER
Columbia, South Carolina
A resident of Columbia and native of Charlotte, Robert Clark’s photography has appeared in National Geographic books, Newsweek, Smithsonian, and photographic awards annuals such as Print and Communication Arts. He has specialties in architectural/interior photography, editorial, advertising, and fine art photography. He has photographed seven books on South Carolina—the latest of which is Carolina Bays, published by the University of South Carolina Press in 2019—and he is also a Professional Photographers of America (PPA) member. View Robert’s work on Instagram at @robertclarkphotography.
Jennifer Linney
PHOTOGRAPHER
Prince William County, Virginia
Jennifer Linney has always enjoyed taking the long way home. Before she started photographing old barns and farmhouses, she’d make mental notes while driving by would-be photo opportunities, intending to return. One afternoon, after passing an abandoned tavern, she mused her usual, “I need to photograph that one day.” Moments later, she declared, “I have to stop that ‘one day’ bit and take photos when I see them.” “Yup, you do,” her son agreed. The next weekend, Jennifer began roaming backroads, scouting rusted roofs, and peering up country roads. The rush she gets when a barn comes into view or winter reveals an abandoned farmhouse previously shrouded behind summer’s leaves, is pure bliss. Jennifer is a writer and editor in Prince William County, Virginia, who shares her photos on Instagram @alwaystakethebackroads.
Bruce DeBoer
PHOTOGRAPHER
Raleigh, North Carolina
Bruce has over 40 years of experience directing people, managing brands, and creating visual stories through photography and digital filmmaking. After discovering photography at age 12 on Long Island, New York, Bruce went on to earn a bachelors of science in advertising photography at Rochester Institute of Technology. He has worked in Boston, Kansas City, Chicago, and now Raleigh, and logged time at Hallmark Cards, Erickson Productions, Synthesis Creative, and Torque, Ltd. He’s a founding partner at Stone Soup Productions and, currently, his commercial studio, DeBoerWorks Photographic Productions. Additionally, Bruce creates fine art photography and abstract painting for DeBoerFineArt.com and galleries.
Eifel Kreutz
PHOTOGRAPHER
Charlotte, North Carolina
Eifel Kreutz is a landscape photographer and occasional real estate photographer based in Charlotte. A resident of North Carolina since 2018, he loves exploring the region’s natural beauty, especially in the mountains of western North Carolina. Eifel enjoys hiking and other outdoor activities, as well as traveling, reading, and watching soccer. He also loves maps, and his full-time job is in the field of geographic information systems (GIS). View Eifel’s photography work and prints at eifelkreutz.myportfolio.com.
Beth Peterson
WRITER
Cary, North Carolina
Beth Peterson teaches English Literature and Creative Writing in Cary, North Carolina. When she isn’t talking to her students about Ponyboy and poetry, she’s probably outside on a walk with her dog or out of state visiting her college-age kids. Her hobbies include searching for just the right word; searching for just the right shade of lipstick; stopping to talk to anyone who looks to be over the age of 80; fashion; reading dead poets; and studying theology. Not in that order.
Join us and share your story. Would you like your photography, art, or writing to be featured in an upcoming issue Backroad Portfolio? Do you have an amazing story about a historical structure, roadtrip, or small business you’d like us to cover? If so, contact us via email at hello@backroadportfolio.com and we’ll check it out!
“Remember
that the most valuable antiques are dear old friends.” // H.
