September 2011

The Buzz

September 2011

B-21 Fine Wine & S p irit s Guid e t o Win e s f ro m Aro und the Wo rld

Est. 1948

Jorge Ordoñez

in the Tarima

vineyard.

SEÑOR ESPAÑA Discovering Spain with Jorge Ordoñez

CLASS OF '07

Napa Cabs

SAfrican Values Beer that's smokin'

CIGAR CITY

THAI FOOD JUNKIE?

7

Rieslings to match your addiction

True confessions

MY FIRST WINE BUYERS' BEST WINE DEALS

25

ON THE RUTA DEL JORGE Attention. Attention. Spain has a JORGE ORDOÑEZ situation. And aren't wine lovers lucky.

During a weeklong tour of Spain's wineries and vineyards with Spanish wine impresario Jorge Ordoñez, I am called to attention dozens of times to “Tempranillo situations,” “major shrimp situations,” “Garnacha situations” and so on.

In the last thirty years Ordoñez has called global attention to Spanish wines, from Rioja's old glories to the newer and neglected treasures from Monastrell to Albariño in forgotten wine regions. Savvy wine buyers know Ordoñez as the pioneer salesman and importer and look for Jorge Ordoñez Selections on the label. But Ordoñez selects more than wines he imports. He may well select the region, the vineyard, the grapes, the blend and the price (only rarely above $15 and well worth it when it is). He will also pick the people to whom he may be partner, consultant or proprietor as well as importer.

Here on the wine roads crossing from the Atlantic coast to the Basque country it is “Atención!” or sometimes a drill sergeant "a-ten-SHUN" in a more military sense. In the wine industry an expedition like this is known wryly as a Jorge "death march". Yet it takes military precision and pace to cover the domain of Ordoñez influence in seven days, 9 a.m. to 2 a.m. Two vans, a corps of drivers, ready supplies of Dramamine and stain remover, and Napoleon in a Panama hat.

Jorge Bonaparte has a precise itinerary and extensive reservations at hotels and restaurants (for which Ordoñez has a nose as skilled as his wine palate). Logistics are flawless: To accommodate our allergies, every menu has omitted red peppers and strawberries; when we check into the grand Hotel Wellington in Madrid, a desk clerk in full formal kit, reminds us “Mr. Ordoñez says to be ready at 8:30.”

Following orders is easier than comprehending the breadth of Ordoñez' impact and wines. The exploration starts easily enough. After an overnight we land in Madrid at an airport so modern and colorful it seems more like the Pompidou Center in Paris, high speed rail south delivers us to Malaga. This is Ordoñez birthplace and headquarters when he is not at his home in Boston.

We are in time for lunch and in this large port city that means an al fresco seafood feast.

Jorge's sister Victoria hosts us at a table on the Mediterranean where old fishing boats have been beached and used to roast the fresh catch. Each platter is loaded with a different species, shrimp in three sizes, then thumbnail clams, then two kinds of lobster. They pair happily with endless rounds of BOTANI (91WA), a new dry style of Moscato the Ordoñez have developed.

Fresh fish grilling in a wrecked boat in Pedregalejo, a fishermen's quarter in Malaga.

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by Chris Sherman

At Botani Jorge is an owner, with his sister Victoria, of a winery built to restore the good name of Malaga Moscato (and make handsome fortified wines). So we wind high into the mountains, 1,000 meters or more where roads are narrow, the sea view endless, and the grapevines ancient and fringed with wild fennel and dill. This is the root of real wine, not the bulk syrup we know as Malaga.

Back down the mountain at midnight we struggle to find the right seafood restaurant on the malecon; more than fifty are open... and lively.

Fortified with espresso and the finest churros of my life, we take the coast road through rocky hills and high mountain curves toward Alicante; palm trees and white stucco villas always below. When we turn inland the land is drier and the sun higher, more like the old West. Dusty and remote, yet so modern it has Spain's largest farms of solar panels. This is Jumilla, the home of Monastrell (Mourvedre) and the essence of the juicy JUAN GIL (2008, 90ST, $14.99) and Wrong Dongo reds Ordoñez introduced to the U.S. Now the source of a new Ordoñez label, Tarima, made with local growers.

2010 Botani $1399

We open a few nice bottles at a temple of paella on a side street in the tiny town of Pinoso. The paella at Paco Giandia relies on rabbit and snails, no shrimp or chorizo in sight -- and no complaints either. It was also authentically shallow, barely an inch

Shellfish and finfish piled on ice at El Caleno in Malaga.

thick, with a crunchy rice crust on the bottom worth fighting over.

Our table ate two.

idyllic valley. It is the northernmost site of Garnacha in Spain, including 70-year old-vines high on the chapparal. The valley includes what one winemaker at Concha Vecino calls a rural family's supermarket. It still grows apples, pears, apricots, olives, and figs, and golden patches of wheat too. The olive oil is bright with pepper.

the Baja - and a new winery.

On to Rioja most proper, Alta and Alavesa, across the Ebro and up against the Sierra Cantabria mountains that block off the worst Continental weather. Churches crown hilltop villages as if we were in Tuscany but the roads are straight and smooth. I can see two millennia here easily from Roman stone work over the Ebro to the pure white blades of windmill farms on the heights.

We make eastward to Zaragoza by midnight and head out the next morning to Campo de Borja on the stony plains southwest of Rioja (but far from it in price). And a D.O. the world would not At midnight we sat on the rooftop know so well without Ordoñez. of Bodegas Nekeas at the top of the At the old winery named for the Here at Bodegas Borsao is the village of Alorbe, talking wine and Cantabrias we meet the Egurens whose scene of more Ordoñez triumphs, politics over grilled beef. Proprietor production has boomed in recent decades, the BORSAO (87WA) Paco San Martin knows both; from the affordable Protocolo ($5.99) to 99 2009 Viña Borgia $5 and Borgia lines, and the elder statesman was booted earthy reservas and signature Paganos cuvees 99 2009 Borsao $6 their top TRES PICOS from his post as a top agriculture reeking of calcareous soils. And, we will see 99 2008 Tres Picos $11 (91WA, 91ST) and ALTO minister because of his socialist later, a brave new venture in Toro.

2008 Alto Moncayo $3999 MONCAYO (91WS). On politics and then found this 99 We position ourselves in Laguardia our way to the vineyards, '07 Alto Moncayo Aquilon $99 valley. When Spanish wine where we can see the storm clouds we stop in a small village to rouse the prices collapsed three decades ago, he brought struggle to get over the sierras. In winemaker's aged father who kindly provides in Merlot and the international grapes and still Haro, the Rioja capital, we meet a key to the winery's origin, small caves of mid has some but he's most proud of Garnacha our friend Juan Muga bricks and wooden doors pressed into the low (sometimes with Syrah). Likewise, Vecino, and inspect the family's hillsides. one of the country’s top female winemakers, remarkable cooperage before happily insists her Chardonnay may not be There is Tempranillo here, but the joy is heading to dinner in a 14th traditional but it is Spain's best. the Garnacha from the red clay and red slate; century convent revamped After a night in Pamplona with Ernest its finest expression in the luxuriant Moncayo, with Lycra. Tasting Hemingway's ghost (Papa stayed in our hotel crafted with the help of Australian Chris the MUGA line is, as and would chuckle that one of the Basque Ringland. expected, exceptional. factions has its headquarters across the street) The highlight is the '05 We taste through several vintages (2010 we head to Rioja at last.

ARO (96ST, 95WA), a is even richer than 2009 for Tres Picos) in First stop is Rioja Baja, the low-lying, beautiful first growth, the bodegas’ great hall and again at a late least prestigious sector yet we find some of and the surprise, a afternoon lunch in Borja of endless seafood, the most exciting wines of the trip at Ilurce spritely Rioja cava. jamón Ibérico and Manchego cheese. winery run by the smartly innovative Escudero From there we are off for a twilight visit to family. Using the Rioja’s best Graciano and 2005 Muga Aro $14999 the makers of VEGA SICILIA (1999, 97WA, 100- year old Garnacha vines plus traditional 2005 Allende $2199 $349.99), Bodegas Nekeas, in an isolated Tempranillo they are rebuilding the status of 2005 Allende 1.5L $4999

Victoria and Jorge Ordonez at their winery high in the sierras above Malaga.

An earthy paella with rabbit and snails at Paco Gandia in Pinoso.

The Muga winery cracks and separates thousands of eggs every week to clarify red wines.

The next day takes us to two more first names of Rioja, favorites of Ordoñez and ours. The first session with Miguel Angel de Gregorio from FINCA ALLENDE (2005, 92WA) in Briones ends with lunch deep in centuries-old caves. He pulls out two 25-year-old Tempranillos that prove his marvelous current vintages are no fluke and will last decades.

Early evening finds us at REMIREZ DE GANUZA with its ancient tower and the Alavesa's most visionary rethinker, Fernando Remirez de Ganuza. As charming as he was on his visit to Tampa, his handiwork here is more impressive. He tweaks or redesigns every part of the process. In the vineyard, he alternates trellises row by row; he reshapes fermenting tanks into upside down beakers (or space capsules). At dinner in a favorite steakhouse he takes up a long-running debate with the proprietor on the proper temperature and cut of the meat.

Braiding local garlic, the pride of La Mancha farms.

MORO, a sleek new winery, smart restaurant and lounge, and a catering venue for the very hip. Yet the surrounding terroir is thick with chalk, clay, and ancient river stones.

In Pesquera, we meet Jose Moro at the old family winery in Pesquera. We make our way through the wines of both labels, from the grand MALLEOLUS down to Cepa 21's bright young Hito and my favorite value FINCA RESALSO. Most intriguing taste however is from a new Moro project combining his Tinto Fino with Touriga grapes of Portuguese neighbors downstream where the Duero becomes the Douro.

Then through Toro, a hot new D.O. where Ordoñez has a winery under construction and the Egurens of Rioja have just completed one and then into Madrid. The modern capital has all its 18th and 19th century elegance, like Paris with extra icing on top, and a throbbing 3 a.m. nightlife.

Yet, we cannot leave without a visit to the plains of La Mancha where Don Quijote's windmills have been replaced by the modern kind but the dusty flats and old whitewashed farm buildings are little changed.

While Rioja was once the mountaintop 2008 Volver (88ST) $1299 of Spanish wine, we carry on. Into the dry broad flats of RIBERA del DUERO of endless 2009 Emilio Moro Resalso (91IWC) $1199 vineyards, small hills and a mysterious cube 2006 Emilio Moro (92WA, 91WS) $1999 of black glass and white stone marble. Left 2006 Cepa 21 by Emilio Moro (92ST) $2199 by another culture? Or one to come? It is very 2006 Emilo Moro Malleous (93WA) $5999 much now; CEPA 21 (or 21st century grape) 2005 Remirez de Ganuza Reserva (96WA) $7999 is the modern embodiment of EMILIO

Jose Moro, president of Emilio Moro, grandson of the founder.

We pull off the road and bounce a klick or two into the rough. Why are we here? This is garlic country, the world's source of purple garlic, and cheap grapes.

But at last I understand Ordoñez genius.

There is talk that the surrounding pine forest signals sand, and that led to surmises of calcareous soil under the old vines. There was indeed fine Tempranillo here, the quality of which had been ignored and neglected for decades. Jorge had spotted it and with his partner Rafael Canizares put it into a BODEGAS VOLVER, one of the loveliest reds I've tasted from La Mancha. On the label is a stylized bull, the partners’ initials, O and C, form its eyes and wink.

We celebrate with more surprise in nearby Las Pedroñeras. A few yards from a garlic depot on a nondescript street is the very smart bistro Rejas that claims a Michelin star and the most modern cuisine we've had in Spain.

Back in Madrid for our last dinner we pour more Volver at a sushi bar so fresh that sashimi is served on a still breathing flounder. And also big, blooming, white Godello from Avanthia in Galicia, one corner of Spain we did not reach.

No matter. Ordoñez has brought it to our attention, as he has the rest of the Spanish wine map.

MOVIMIENTO

JAMON IBÉRICO

Journalists spend too much time talking about the next big thing, but change and innovation are everywhere in a country once know for dusty, stubborn tradition. What’s coming?

Spain’s Other Vintage Luxury

MORE WHITES: Godello, Verdelho, and Viura are following Albariño’s path to more respect and polish.

NEW ROSADOS: Rosés are popular in summer across Europe. Spain will export more juicy rosés of Tempranillo and Garnacha.

CROSS FERTILIZATION: Great wineries in Rioja and Ribera del Duero are exploring the country and bringing their quality and innovation to new ventures.

RE-ENERGIZED D.O.s: Old terroir like Bierzo and Valdeorras, Yecla, Rueda, Valdepeñas and Somontano, even lowly Rioja Baja, have more excitement and quality.

CHANGING VINTAGE: Look for ‘08 and ’09 to be the best since 2004 and 2005. And 2010 appears excellent as well in reds and whites. Expect more younger wines from D.O.s and wineries not interested in long-aged reserva classifications.

THE SPANISH TABLE Lunch is long, dinner is longer and dining hours stretch past midnight.

If you dine at noon or 7 p.m. you may be lonely – and hungry again later.

Briones, Rioja

LOS CALAOS - Hearty Riojana roasts in deep wine cave

El Pinos, Alicante

PACO GANDIA - Perfect paella fresh from the fire with rabbit and snails

Haro, Rioja

LAS DUELAS, HOTEL LOS AGOSTINOS - Contemporary cooking in soaring medieval convent.

Madrid

EL PESCADOR - Mounds of fresh seafood, sweet barnacles KABUKI, HOTEL WELLINGTON - Extreme sushi, vitally fresh ingredients

Malaga, Costa del Sol

EL CALENO – Informal chiringuito in the fisherman’s quarter of Pedregalejo LOS MARINOS JOSE – Sparkling seafood with a view of the beach, the city’s best.

Pamplona, Navarra

CAFE IRUNA - Pre-Hemingway glory elegant even for espresso ALAMEDA – Lush aged beef carved at the table.

Las Pedroneras, La Mancha

LAS REJAS – Modern food art by Michelin-starred Manolo de la Osa

PAMPLONA - In a very fine steakhouse in the land of bulls, pride of place in the dining room is given to a long haunch of drycured ham, with bone in ... attached to a hairy black hoof.

The display is primal, commercial and a form of consumer protection. It assures diners that the rich luxurious meat to be thinly sliced from it is indeed jamón Ibérico, specifically "pata negra" or black foot.

In Spain such hams are treasured, graded and priced with as much respect as fine wine. They begin every meal in great restaurants, whether their titular specialty is beef or seafood. The slices are thin, the meat dark red and the fat snow white. It glistens on the plate and on the palate.

Black-footed jamón Ibérico is delicacy extremely rare in the U.S. and not comparable to common jamón serrano or Italian prosciutto. When in Spain you must have this Kobe of hams, as often as you can (nearly every meal for me).

The Ibérico differs from other hams by breed.

The pig must be at least

75 percent black foot, like a varietal, and strict registries are kept. Terroir counts; the best come from the D.O.s of Guijela and Jabujon. Further the jamón Ibérico is labeled by diet: de cebo pigs have been raised on grain, de recebo have been fed acorns as well, and the grandest de belloto have free-ranged and fed on acorns and wild foods. They seem to have as much nutty vegetable fats as animal.

And vintage matters.

After curing, jamóns can be aged up to four years before sale and some are reported to be ten. All of which costs money, $100 a pound in the U.S. And thousands of dollars for a fine whole ham from Joselito, the grand cru jamón cellar in Salamanca.

Not to be deprived, Spanish beef-lovers now have their own luxury, "vieja vaca". The beef is from dairy cows put out to graze in the mountains of Galicia after 15 years or more of milking. Slaughtered after a year or so in the pasture, the beef is remarkably rich and dark crimson, and is the specialty of our steakhouse.

B-21.com | 5

BIG

by Shannon Sprentall

WORLD SMALL BUDGET

2010 Jam Jar Sweet Shiraz $799

"Got a sweet tooth? This fresh, fruity, semi-sweet Shiraz aims to fill that void. Most of the grapes are grown in Paarl, a region with a Rhône-like climate that is ideal for Shiraz cultivation, and production is overseen by critically acclaimed winemaker Bruwer Raats. The brand's packaging has a nostalgic, “retro” feel inspired by classic red and white checkered jam jar lids." 90SS

2010 MAN Chardonnay $799

"This unoaked Chardonnay is fruit forward, fresh, clean yet complex. Aromas of minerals, citrus and peach and flavors of white fruit, citrus and crisp apple. Great choice for seafood and poultry dishes."

88SS (88ST)

2008 MAN Shiraz $7

2009 MAN Pinotage $799

South Africa is producing some of my favorite Best Buy wines. Whether you’re looking for a single bottle to pair with a weekday dinner or a case for entertaining, South Africa has plenty varietals to choose from. The silly animal /critter like labels will catch your eye but these wines are serious values that have continued to impress me for the past few vintages. Here is my Safrican guide to savings.

"Full body, bold red berry flavors, sweet oak with touches of tobacco, cinnamon and nutmeg. Great balance of soft n' hearty. This Pinotage goes well with a wide range of foods from grilled meats to spicy curries. It's the only wine I have ever heard of that perfectly complements eel to a steaming bowl of 'roo stew." 89SS (87ST)

2009 MAN Cabernet Sauvignon $799 "Bright ruby-red. Crushed blackberry, blueberry, licorice and smoky oak on the nose, with a whiff of flowers. Supple, broad and easy to drink, with an enticing dark berry sweetness nicely buffered by lively herb and flint notes. Finishes with rather soft tannins and lingering notes of redcurrant and plum." 88ST

99

"An excellent value! Ripe fruit, bold, expressive and a touch of exotic spices." 88SS (87RAS) "Fat, sweet and lush, but with harmonious acidity giving shape to the cassis, blueberry and mocha flavors. Finishes broad, with a fine dusting of tannins. A distinctly creamy shiraz with immediate appeal." 88ST

2010 MAN Chenin Blanc $799

"Bright yellow. Cool aromas of melon, kiwi, lime zest, dusty herbs and licorice. Juicy and densely packed, with a bit of sweetness balanced by brisk acidity. A crisp, clean midweight with a dusty texture and a ripe nectarine flavor on the lively finish. Terrific value." 88ST

2009 Porcupine Ridge Syrah $999 "A solid red from the Franschhoek Valley made by new-wave winemaker Marc Kent. It's a truly handcrafted Syrah, fermented in small open-top tanks, and then aged in wooden barrels. Aromas of raspberry, black pepper, smoked sausage and cloves. The silky texture and full flavor make it a great wine on its own or enjoy with most red meat dishes." 90SS

2009 The Wolftrap $999

"Very bright red-ruby. Black cherry, pepper, tree bark and candied violet on the almost liqueur-like nose. Then juicy and vinous in the mouth, with lovely red berry sweetness complicated by pepper and a touch of wood smoke. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins and nice length for a wine in its price range. User-friendly and downright gulpable." 88ST

SS = SHANNON SPRENTALL, RAS = ROBERT SPRENTALL, ST = STEPHEN TANZER'S IWC WS = WINE SPECTATOR, WA = ROBERT PARKER'S WINE ADVOCATE

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P O P Q U I Z : My first wine?

The most sophisticated palates were once young and might have drunk White Zin before they touched Gevrey-Chambertin. We asked our staff and friend, Brad Dixon from Bern's Steakhouse, to fess up!

BRAD DIXON

Sommelier at Bern's Steak House (Tampa) "The first wine I remember drinking was actually a German Riesling. I had an uncle who thought we should try a little wine at dinner and that’s what he let us have. As far as better wine, I remember being into California Pinot Noir (in the early 1990’s) and then trying one of Gary Farrell’s single vineyard Pinot’s that just blew me away! As for a wine recommendation for newbie’s, lately I have been suggesting Washington State Riesling. I think newbies like crisp off-dry wines with a label that they can understand."

An Email You Missed!

Chris Sherman: It was Mateus in the dark on the campus lawn with a cheap corkscrew. I moved up in grad school to a flowery California Malvasia Bianca from San Martin. Today I'd steer a new drinker to Loosen Riesling; they get the nose right away and like it. Lots of flavors in the mouth including a splash of mineral.

Summer Martin: I can't remember my first wine although I imagine it was Riunite Lambrusco, as I remember sneaking some sips at a holiday gathering once when I was younger (scandalous I know!) But the first red wine I really enjoyed was my first staff pick here at the B nearly a decade ago: 2000 Chateau Gigault Cuvee Viva. My starting line was "What can be sexier than berries and chocolate." I still love that wine.

We've got it in 2003 (49.99) and as 2009 futures in every size!

Shannon Sprentall: I wish I could say my first wine was embarrassing but sipping on Billecart-Salmon at Les Maritonnes in Romanèche-Thorins before my first tour de Beaujolais / Burgundy isn’t too shabby for a ten year old. Thanks to my dear ol’ Dad, Champagne had me at hello and now. My favorite bubbles as an adult (-ish) is Agrapart Brut Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru Les 7 Crus. Best value in Champagne only $34.99!

Rhett Beiletti: My first wine? On the bench seat of the slate green standard issue 70s American car my parents trusted me with, a Chevrolet of some sort, in an Odessa cow pasture away from the throngs of a “kegger”, that glowing giant glass bottle sat in the melt and deterioration of the paper bag “redneck” cooler. The sour sweet swallows triggered thoughts of approaching adulthood as I drank that Almaden Rhine. I wish I could tell you I hit it straight from the bottle but the 3L was too heavy for that.

First wine I enjoyed? 1986, first job in wine industry, summer school, summer wine. Brown bottled Bornheimer Adelberg, Rheinhessen, learning regions of Germany and differences of the “Qualitat Mit Pradikatt” designations K, S, and A and “sampling”. No producer, no more than “mental” notes: Buttered apples, green grape goodness. Wanted more. Stop.

Each month B-21 Proprietor, Bob Sprentall offers the best deals he finds to our best customers via email. These offers contain insight on great wines and pricing not available anywhere else. They are often small lots that sell out within hours never to be seen again. Below is a sample of emails we offered last month (at current sale price). To make sure you don’t miss the future deals visit b-21.com to sign-up and tell us the wines you love. We’ll give you first crack at our finds.

A Rioja We Missed. But You Shouldn't: Organic 94-pt Remelluri We've been so deep in Rioja's this summer I feel like I've been treading water in the Ebro. I almost forgot to alert you to one of the great wines – and buys – of 2007. The tinto from Remelluri is one of the consistent great wines of the region in modern times. Remelluri farms smartly and carefully and Telmo Rodriguez makes it skillfully. This is a deep, dark red, with a dramatic and exotic nose, very lush texture and very long finish. My kind of Rioja. Also the Wine Advocate's apparently. And, now that I've dropped the price, yours too. You're gonna want that.

Bob Sprentall Proprietor

2007 Remelluri Tinto (Rioja) Sale: $34.99

"Deep purple in color, it reveals an already complex bouquet of exotic spices, leather, violets, mineral, and assorted black fruits. In the glass it is succulent with plush fruit, terrific grip and volume, and a lengthy, rich, supple finish. It can be approached now but is likely to continue filling out for several more years."

94 Points!

Robert Parkers Wine Advocate

BUYERS' REPORT CHRIS SHERMAN, WEST COAST, ITALY 2010 FERRARI-CARANO FUME BLANC, SONOMA: Be first on your block to put this 2010 Sauv Blanc out for a summer cooler. Taste the tropics, a little grass (but no cats). Good body rounded with oak and straightened with acidity. Great with grilled shrimp and scallops. BEST VALUE 90CG $1399 Entertaining with Ferra ri at the Palm Harbor Ferrari Showroom fo 2008 MACROSTIE r a great cause: the local YMCA. CHARDONNAY: This is the kind of elegant glass we should go to the Sonoma Coast for. Intense fruit 2009 BENTON LANE PINOT with tangy spice, full body with NOIR, WILLAMETTE: Quality minerality behind sunny flavors.

Oregon Pinot Noir for darn near Pour it for Big & Rich. 92WS cheap and half the top of the line. $2199 Still you get an exotic nose of forests, flowers and faraway spices 2009 ELK COVE PINOT GRIS, as well as the berries and cherries WILLAMETTE: This juicy white you want. Racy, savory, and closer bottles Oregon breezes and proves to Burgundy than I expected. equal to the finer grade of Italian CELLAR STOCKER $2199 Pinot Grigio. Besides this wildly mixed orchard of apples, peaches, 2008 TAMARACK CELLARS FIREHOUSE RED, COLUMBIA: pears and citrus runs a small refreshing creek. 90WS, Top 100 My kind of Meritage, not 5 grapes but 8, beautifully blended from the #79 $1599 Rhone, Tuscany and Bordeaux. do on Lusciously plummy with berry jam rra Cu ca Lu r ke ma ne Wi Vietti's s year. flavors dusted with cinnamon and our trip to Italy earlier thi ready to rescue you from summer doldrums and remind you to monitor that flaming grill. 90WS, Top 100 #49 $1999 2009 VIETTI ROERO ARNEIS: Anyone who's not already in love with Arneis will be after tasting the best. Vietti saved this wonderful varietal white grape and paved the way for its DOCG status. No oak, just crisp elegance with a full orchard of aromas plus a bit of ripe melon and almonds. 91SM 90RAS, 89WA $1999

2007 INAMA CARMENÈRE PIU, VENETO: The best red in the Veneto is a Carmenere as good as any in Chile. Maybe it's the added merlot.

Always a staff favorite at B-21; great red fruit set off by bright minerality and acids. 92SR, 90WA BEST VALUE $1799 2006 VITICCIO CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA, CHIANTI: A great year for Chianti at its best. All those dark cherries plus roses, leather and chocolate. And what a creamy finish. My risotto should be this good. 93WS, Top 100 #50, 90WA CELLAR STUFFER $2499 2008 VILLA MARIA RIESLING, PRIVATE BIN, MARLBOROUGH: Riesling is not just for Germany (or Australia). The sharp folks at Villa Maria turn out a very fetching riesling for summer. Lots of aroma and citrus fruits with a flowery finish. 91WS $1299 2008 VITIANO ROSSO, UMBRIA: This is a poor man's super-Umbrian: cab, sangiovese and long on silky merlot. It makes for a luscious drink, brimming with cherries and sweet with oak and spice. This will go with any meat cooked alfresco or lusty pasta in the A.C. 89WA $999

SUMMER MARTIN, SPAIN 2008 ESTE: Whole lotta wine for the price. The nose and palate knocked me out with tons of dark fruits, ripe, full and delicious!

89SM $899

Summer snapped a quick pic of La Rioja Alta on her ruta de vino in April 2011 2001 LA RIOJA ALTA ARDANZA: This is dead sexy! Another Tempranillo, but not as much powerful as it is velvety and full of character. It caresses the palate like traditionally aged Tempranillo should. We tasted this wine alongside a beautiful filet at Mise en Place restaurant in Tampa and it paired perfectly. 93SM (94WA) $2799 2008 BLACK SLATE PORRERA (PRIORAT): When Rhett returned from his trip to Charlotte to visit Eric Solomon he said, “Summer you gotta try the ‘08 Priorats... especially the Black Slate!” Boy, were they right! The 2008 Priorats are on fire! This one made with 60% Garnacha and 40% Cariñena has the flavor and punch of a Grenache and the silky texture of a Pinot. PS – We still have a few bottles of '07 left. Both great vintages but each different; do a comparison tasting! 91SM (92RB, 92RAS, 90WA) $1799

2006 ATAUTA (RIBERA DEL DUERO): Call this the Reignac of Spain. This Tempranillo has made a name for itself soon after it began in 1999 when it was included in a widely publicized blind tasting against 2000 Chateau Latour and 1994 Vega Sicilia and won! Last year Wine Spectator included it in its Top 100 Wines of the year. Made from Old Vines and pure Tinto Fino (or Tempranillo), this is a full-bodied red with all the black fruits you could want. 93SM (95WE, 92WS Top 100 #73) $2599 2005 HACIENDA MONASTERIO RESERVA: Heads up we are getting more of this in-stock. It is made by Peter Sisseck, the winemaker for Pingus, one of Spain’s best and most expensive reds. Made from the vineyards right next to Pesquera this is 80% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet and 100% delicious. Powerful and complex, it drinks beautifully now and will for years to come! 96SM (95WA, 96RAS) $6999

RHETT BEILETTI, FRANCE 2010 BECASSONNE BLANC (COTES DU RHONE): Rounded, clean, very clear, no oak markings, almost fat but fanning out with floral and (stay with me here) if you could imagine the perfume that you like translating into something that tastes good then you would have it. Let me know that I am not crazy. $1299 2005 CHATEAU CASSAGNE HAUTCANON (CANONFRONSAC): This past January in my sanctuary I tasted this and knew it would be one that would make B-21 friends. Supple, gentle and, well... genteel. An Aristocrat. $2499 2008 DOMAINE DE LA GARRIGUE ‘CUVEE ROMAINE’: Psst, hey, you: This is Vacqueyras that says CdR on the label and sells for $1199. Ok, cognoscenti...

2009 RAPET BOURGOGNE ‘EN BULLY’: Supple upfront, vibrant, fruity and lively as it unrolls, the best under $20 Pinot Noir I have tasted in the last year. $1999

Rhett in Burgundy (2011) visiting with Vincent Rapet and Jeanne Marie de Champs

2010 Becassonne Blanc from Andre Brunel is a best seller and was our August centerfold!

2008 LAPORTE SANCERRE DOMAINE DU ROCHOY: Sublime Sauvignon Blanc: no exaggeration, some gooseberry, green fruit cool, earthy spice and mouthwatering, exciting and elegant. $2999

SHANNON SPRENTALL, ROSÉ 2010 MAS DES BRESSADES ROSÉ: Bright and bold. Ripe cherry and cranberry flavors. Fleshy and very refreshing. Great buy! 88SS $999 2009 COMMANDERIE DE PEYRASSOL ROSÉ: Pale orange. Strawberry, orange, honeysuckle and white pepper aromas. Good depth and firm acidity. Finish is mineral driven with floral notes. 91SS $1699 2010 CHATEAU GUIOT ROSÉ: Rich and bold. Ripe cherry and red licorice flavors backed by a dash of toasty spice on the finish.

A great Rosé for entertaining especially for red wine drinkers.

88SS $899

2010 MAS DE GOURGONNIER ROSÉ: Bright orange. Dry and racy. Aromas of fresh red berries and citrus. Tangy strawberry flavors and a hint of white pepper.

De-lish! 90SS $1499 2009 DOMAINE PRADEAUX ROSÉ: Orangey-pink color. Aromas of orange blossom, red berries and pepper.

Sweet citrus and redcurrant flavors.

Finishes with structure and notes of spice, flowers and minerals.

It should age well.

92SS $2999

25 WINES YOU MUST TRY!

2006 Silvio Grasso Barolo

"For sure the 2006 Normalie is the Barolo buy of the yea as good as cru vineyards like Bricco Luciano or Ciabot M $25. I'd put Grasso's wines in a league with Brovia or G and I'm smiling about that lush '06 vintage.� - Robert S

The towers of Castiglione Falletto, east of La Morra, are a Barolo landmark.

rico and Alessio Fede

.

his son Silvio

Alessio in the vineyards.

$24

BORN: 2006

99

HOMETOWN: La Morra

750ml

ar. I rate it at 92, Manzoni, and only Giuseppe Rinaldi, Sprentall, B-21

EDUCATION: Chalky clay soils; large French oak.

GPA: 92.5 (92RAS, 93SR) SIBLINGS: Big brothers Bricco Luciano, Giachini, Ciabot Manzoni FAVORITE THINGS: White truffles, hill climbing, wearing red pants, visiting the Barolo corkscrew museum.

VALUES: Anything but “normal,” natural agriculture, big families, great views from the Belvedere.

The fam

ily wine

ry in La

Morra.

MONTEVIEJO Bordeaux in Argentina “Of all the lofty accolades and ringing endorsements for Argentinean wine, perhaps none trumps that of Michel Rolland.

The famed Bordeaux enologist has not only embraced Argentina’s wine industry but also become an integral part of it.

He owns a piece of the rock.”

-James Laube, Wine Spectator When Bordeaux’s most influential oenologist, Michel Rolland, set foot on Argentine soil it was love at first sight. He knew that land could and would make extraordinary wines.

That’s why he sought out six Bordeaux investors to join him in his venture “Clos de Siete,” meaning “Enclosure of Seven”.

Within Clos de Siete are seven different wineries that each have their own vineyards as well as give wine to make the CdS blend. One of these seven is Bodegas Monteviejo.

2008 Festivo Malbec (90SS, 89SM, 87WA)..................... $1299 2008 Clos de los Siete (89WS, 89ST).............................. $1599 2007 Monteviejo Petite Fleur (88WS)........................... $1999 2008 Monteviejo Lindaflor Chardonnay (87WS).......... $2799 2006 Monteviejo Proprietary Red (91WA, 90WS)......... $2999 2004 Monteviejo Lindaflor Malbec (93WE, 90ST)........ $2999 2006 Monteviejo Lindaflor Malbec (93+WA, 92WS)...... $2999

Owned and operated by Chateau Le Gay, of Pomerol, Bodega Monteviejo wines are made by Michel Rolland. The vineyards are located around 120 miles south of Mendoza along the foothills of the Andes Mountains. Their goal is to create wines that can compete with some of the best in the world, and they do.

by Summer Martin

The great thing is you don’t have to pay a world-class price for this elite quality. Their 2008 Festivo is only $12.99 and is full-bodied and rich, deep dark red in color and laden with touches of cocoa and spice.

That’s a whole lot of wine for pennies.

My favorite is the Lindaflor Malbec, which Wine Enthusiast calls “A fruit lover’s wine” saturated deep berry flavors and that signature chocolatey finish.

A big, voluptuous gobsmacker that we have in both the 2004 (93WE) and the 2006 (93+WA) vintages for only $29.99 each.

And just for those of you crazies out there who say “I don’t like red wine,” then you must try their Lindaflor Chardonnay, a lush, buttery crowd-pleasing white wine.

We’ve tasted them all multiple times and highly recommend each and every one.

Monteviejo is doing great things in Argentina and its evidenced in the bottle. And as for the Clos de Siete blend, it is an incredible blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot well worth its $16 price tag. And there’s a little taste of Monteviejo in each sip.

Taste Monteviejo’s wines at our Spain and Latin American Wine Festival on Sunday, October 9th! Details on the back page!

12 | B-21.com

CLASS OF '07: NAPA'S BEST CABS EVER?

by Chris Sherman

"More great Cabernets were made in Napa in 2007 that at any other time or place in California history. Breathtaking is the word that best describes the quality of this near-perfect vintage." – James Laube, Wine Spectator Or not? In some quarters the debate continues. How great was 2007 in Napa and why? From the weather, it was a great vintage, near-perfect for growers. Top vineyardist Andy Beckstoffer was heard to say he had fun that year.

Dry winter, a warm dry spring, a summer of cool nights and few big heat spikes and finally a slow-paced harvest. Picking started early and ran to early November allowing time to bring in each variety in its own time. Overall it was coolish, if not truly cool, and allowed more elegance. The ’07 was not the overheated, overripe vintages that horrify some critics. Actually the main carping from bloggers and critics was that Napa 2007 didn’t merit the 99-points that Laube gave. If not, what about Robert Parker’s 96 point rating , which he’s given only once before to the 2001 which are not as ready to drink? Still sounds and tastes exceptional to me. The only challenge and confusion may be that 2007 is in the middle of an eight-year roll of 90-something vintages in Napa. And yes, some winemakers say their 2008s will be better. I don’t see how we can lose. Nor should we make fast judgments on wines that if truly great will last another 20 years at least.

We’ve got dozens of Napa’s best ’07 Cabs. You decide.

Here’s my top choices arranged by price.

E N JO Y 2007 Franciscan Cabernet Sauvignon, $1799 "A deeply flavored, brooding young wine, filled with exciting blackberry, cassis and mineral flavors. Big in tannins, yet with a very refined, classy mouthfeel, it should begin to hit its stride after 2014." 94WE

2007 Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, $1999 "A stunning perfume of black currants, loamy soil, blackberries and smoke. The wine cuts a full-bodied swath across the palate and possesses silky tannins, layers of fruit and a beautiful, opulent, round mouthfeel. It should drink nicely for 10-15 years." 91WA

2007 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, $1799 "Sleeper of the vintage exhibits an opaque ruby/purple color as well as loads of cassis, blackberry, graphite, and cedar notes. Fullbodied, rich, and concentrated with silky tannins and a lush, generous constitution, this beauty is capable of lasting 10-15 years." 90WA, 90ST

I N D U LG E 2007 B.V. Tapestry, $3999 "Excellent structure, intensity, depth and concentration, with a mix of spice, dried currant, blackberry, mocha, cedar and licorice. Full-bodied, at points rustic and chewy, yet also elegant and refined, ending with earthy graphite-tinged tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. 2011-2020."

93WS

2007 Trinchero Cabernet Sauvignon Haystack, $4499 "...A serious aromatic expression filled with espresso roast, black chocolate, crème de cassis, and rose petals. Full-bodied, with beautiful texture, sweet tannin, and stunning concentration, this is a dense, opulent, blockbuster style... (will) last for 20-25 years."

93WA, 93WE

2007 Larkmead Cabernet Sauvignon, $5999 "A world-class Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. It exhibits a dense purple color, notes of charcoal, crème de cassis, graphite, and forest floor, and a ripe, opulently fruity, rich, full-bodied style. Its endearing silkiness, multi-dimensions, and mature, sweet tannins suggest it has two decades of life ahead of it." 94+WA

IN V EST 2007 Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon, $6999 "Stunning purity, subtle notes of smoke, black currants, blackberries, spring flowers and toast, good acidity and ripe tannin. This full-bodied yet graceful, deep, silky Cabernet is already irresistible, but it will provide provocative and complex drinking for 15-20 years." 92WA

2007 Conn Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, $7499 "Reveals an opaque purple color along with deep, sweet, cedary, black currant aromas intermixed with hints of tobacco leaf, licorice and graphite. Full-bodied, powerful and rich, this impressive 2007 needs 4-5 years of cellaring and should keep for 25+ years." 94WA

2007 J. Phelps Insignia, $17999 "One of the greatest wines yet produced at this historic winery. Beautiful aromas of crème de cassis and flowers jump from the glass of this dense purple-colored effort... extravagant wealth of fruit and full-bodied power... it should evolve for three decades or more... a staggering, complex expression of Napa viticulture." 98WA, 97CG, 96WS B-21.com | 13

GRENACHE: THE "G" WORD

by Rhett Beiletti

Grenache, Garnacha, Cannonau, Alicante, and, oh, about 50 other names... A grape by any other name than those, though, is not Grenache. This durable and widespread varietal, red fleshed and high in alcohol naturally, due to its late ripening, is the grape giving the sappy character to Chateauneuf-du-Pape and also the intensity and pluck to the wines of the high altitude vineyards of Priorat and Calatayud. Beyond those borders it is also argued on the island of Sardegna that the grape was first called Cannonau there. The French do not dispute cultivating the grape after others, but they might assert that the wines of Chateauneuf-du-Pape have brought the grape to its place of recognition. Let's not forget also the Cotes du Rhone and all its iterations, and of course the insane values from Spain, and dry Rose and Dessert wines too, G's high sugar levels lending themselves nicely to fortification as in the case of Banyuls, Rivesaltes and Australian Tawny Wow, that is some tapestry this variety has made itself to be woven into. Did I ever mention the versatility of Grenache?

FRANCE 2009 Dom. d'Andezon La Granacha Signargues Vieilles Vignes $1399 100% Old Vine Grenache “The most powerful La Granacha yet made, tipping the scales at nearly 16% natural alcohol. The belief that such a powerful wine can not also be elegant is disproved by the precise, fresh, lively kirsch liqueur notes intermixed with tobacco leaf, loamy soil, and forest floor characteristics.” 90WA

2009 Cercius Cotes du Rhone Villages Visan $1399 85% Grenache, 15% Syrah “…represents a naked expression of Cotes du Rhone as it is aged completely in concrete prior to bottling. This medium to full-bodied wine possesses a deep ruby/purple color in addition to copious black currant and black cherry fruit interwoven with graphite, crushed rocks, and spice, excellent fruit intensity...” 91WA

2009 Domaine La Garrigue ‘Cuvee Romaine’ Cotes du Rhone $1399 75% Grenache, 25% Syrah

2009 Chateau Pesquie ‘Les Terrasses’ (Ventoux) $1399 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah

“…boasts a dense purple color along with a big, sweet bouquet of kirsch liqueur, licorice, and lavender. Full-bodied with stunning depth and richness as well as a long finish, this remarkable wine demonstrates what great winemaking and Southern Rhone varietals can achieve in a top vintage. Moreover, the price is ridiculously low for such high quality.” 92WA

2007 Sang Cailloux ‘Cuvee Lopy’ (Vacqueyras) $4999 ($44.99 btc) 75% Grenache, 25% Syrah "...notes of smoked herbs, meat juices, creme de cassis, and kirsch notes offered in this exceptionally powerful and rich as well as beautifully balanced wine. A cascade of black fruits and herbs rolls over the palate with a silkiness and profoundness that are almost unreal for a Vacqueyras." 94WA

"Tasting more like a Chateauneuf du Pape than an inexpensive Cotes du Ventoux, this dense ruby/purple-colored wine offers up scents of licorice, black cherries, raspberries, pepper, and meat juices." 90WA

2007 Chateau Saint-Roch ‘Chimeres’ (Cotes du Roussillon Villages) $1599 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 20% Carignan, 10% Mourvedre For all of its saturating sweet ripeness and fresh berry brightness on a silken-textured palate, this also harbors low-toned roast meatiness, while piquant notes of toasted pistachio and almond, black pepper, cherry pit, and herbs keep its long finish far from any danger of succumbing to superficial sweetness.

The view from Pesquie Terrasses (Cotes du Ventoux)

2009 JOSEPH DROUHIN 1950 Domaine Pietri Geraud (Banyuls) $9999 "Very dark, deep, foxy red. Very spicy and complex.

Like molten fruit cake. Essence of figs. Great richness at first but it finishes dry. Really opulent and interesting. This was a sample taken straight from a massive foudre of this ancient wine." 18/20

Jancis Robinson, Master of Wine

1959 Domaine Rose Vila (Rivesaltes) $7999

Joseph Drouhin settled in Beaune and began his wine company in 1880 as a young man of 22. A native of Chablis, where the firm coincidentally owns now a great deal of property, Mr Drouhin began as a traditional negociant, by bottling the wines of vineyard owners.

It was in 1957, as Robert Drouhin took over the company, that Maison Joseph Drouhin began to put the shine on its star as a top producer of Estate wines and as a negociant of renown for its nurturing of solid offerings from vineyards throughout the Cotes de Beaune, Cotes de Nuits and Chablis. Beginning to buy vineyards to control quality was the first step and Maison Joseph Drouhin now owns around 73ha of vineyards throughout Burgundy, much of it grand or premier cru holdings. You will find that the wines of Joseph Drouhin usually typify the appellation and show great reliance on the varietal and tread very lightly on oak.

— BEAUNE — CORTON BRESSANDES GRAND CRU

SPAIN 2007 Roquers de Porrera (Priorat) $3999 80% Garnacha, balance Carinena and Merlot

2008 Planetes de Nin (Priorat) $4299 70% Garnacha, 30% Carinena "High-pitched, exotic aromas of raspberry preserves, dried violet, incense and licorice combine with a serious undertone of smoky minerality and Asian spices. Sweet and precise, with lively red and dark berry flavors and notes of star anise cinnamon and a silky texture..." 92ST

2007 Las Rocas (Calatayud) $999 100% Garnacha "...from Calatayud vineyards ranging in age from 70 to 100 years. It delivers alluring aromas of spice box, mineral, cherry, and black raspberry. Layered on the palate, it has superb depth, succulent flavors, and a pure, lengthy finish.” 90WA

I T A LY 2006 Sella & Mosca Riserva (Sardegna) 1299 Cannonau!

“Fabulous wine for the money. This isn't the most complex Cannonau readers will come across, but it nevertheless impresses for its persistence, purity of fruit and wonderful balance. Dried cherries, crushed flowers and spices linger on the ethereal finish. “ 89WA

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN $39.99

"This is notably ripe with blue and red berry liqueur aromas that are liberally laced with an intense floral component. There is fine volume to the delicious, vibrant and relatively powerful medium-bodied flavors that also enjoy an abundance of dry extract that coats the palate on the long and balanced finish.

Again, an excellent quality level for a villages level wine." 90BH

Grenache: Fortified sweet wine, the sticky of the south of France

“…Aromas of wet stone, licorice, underbrush, black cherry and plum lead to a silky-textured, elegant yet powerful expression of Priorat.” 93WA

— COTES DE NUITS —

$13999

"This is also very ripe with aromas of plum, cassis, earth and wet stone that continue onto the rich, velvety and palate enveloping big-bodied flavors that are utterly delicious yet entirely serious, all wrapped in a very firm and lengthy finish.

This has so much dry extract that it will actually be approachable young but should age magnificently well if desired." 92AM

Beaune Greves 1er 92WA......................$5499 Chassagne-Montrachet (rouge)............$2999 Pommard..............................................$3999 Santenay 1er Beaurepaire.......................$2999 Volnay...................................................$3999 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche..........$59999

BEAUNE 1ER CLOS DES MOUCHES (ROUGE) PRE-ORDER: $74.99

"Shows gorgeous inner perfume and a weightless, gracious personality. The inner sweetness of the fruit flows nicely to the sensual, radiant fruit.

A lovely vein of minerality underpins the subtle finish. 93WA

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1er (PRE-ORDER) $79.99

"Not surprisingly, here the nose is completely different from that of the Procès as it's ripe yet fresher and more elegant with lovely purity to the blue berry and red currant mineral-infused aromas. The precise, intense and refined flavors possess a silky texture on the long, mouth coating and palate staining finish." 92AM

Vosne-Romanee................................. $5999 Chambolle-Musigny.......................... $5499 Morey Saint-Denis 1er Clos de Sorbe $5999 Echezeaux Grand Cru....................... $19999

CLOS VOUGEOT GRAND CRU $199.99

"...quite floral with a ripe and somber nose of earthy liqueur-like aromas that give way to exceptionally rich, intense and full-bodied flavors that possess fine complexity and excellent length.” 93AM

GRIOTTE-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU $299.99 "Beautiful, elegant and totally weightless. This shows gorgeous subtlety and inner juiciness through to the nuanced finish.

Griottes, spices and flowers linger on the close. My sense is this is holding a lot back in reserve at the moment. The GriotteChambertin is made from estate fruit. 94WA

THE MOSCOW MULE IS BACK…

by Shannon Sprentall

Thanks to Oprah’s big Yosemite camping adventure last year the Moscow Mule has made quite the comeback. Though cheer-sing a copper mug feels like a proper rustic ritual for camping and is the perfect for camping cocktail for my girl “O”, this was the drink of choice for the elite in the 40’s. It was 1941, vodka had just arrived in America when three friends gathered in New York’s Chatham Hotel bar. One friend was Jack A. Morgan, president of Cock 'n' Bull Products and owner of the Hollywood Cock 'n' Bull Restaurant; the second was John G. Martin, president of G.F. Heublein Brothers Inc., and the third was Rudolph Kunett, president of the Pierre Smirnoff, Heublein's vodka division. As Jack Morgan tells it, "We three were quaffing a slug, nibbling an hors d'oeuvre and shoving toward inventive genius". Martin and Kunett had their minds on their vodka and wondered what would happen if a two-ounce shot joined with Morgan's ginger beer and the squeeze of a lime. Ice was ordered, limes procured, mugs ushered in and the concoction put together. Mugs were raised, Boyd & the men counted five and down went the first taste. It was good. It lifted the spirit to adventure. Four or five Blair Potato later the mixture was christened the Moscow Mule. Cheers to adventure and Oprah!

Vodka 3499

INGREDIENTS • • • • • •

DIRECTIONS

1 ounce Boyd & Blair vodka 1 tsp. sugar syrup Fresh lime juice 1/2 cup Fever Tree ginger beer 1 sprig fresh mint 1 slice of lime

In a copper mug, pour vodka over ice.

Add sugar syrup and lime juice. Top with ginger beer and stir. Garnish with mint sprig and lime slice.

W H AT ' S B R E W I N G I N TA M PA ?

by Chris Sherman

caramel. The Jai Alai IPA hops as fast any of the Basque speedsters at the old fronton and with equally complex moves, while delivering a 7.5% ABV smash.

Joey Redner Jr. is an honest guy, a wonderful thing in a brewer. He admits that the craft beer world thinks Tampa's a "beer wasteland" and that his own homebrewing style of flavor over formula needed professional help.

Yet through sheer passion Redner and head brewer Wayne Wambles (the pro) have made Cigar City Brewing one of the country's best local craft brewers and the most local of craft brewers.

After fine hops and a wide range of malts from barley to oat and rye, the key ingredient is tropical, industrial Tampa itself. Tampa's Ybor City heritage of cigarrolling, Cuban sandwiches and black beans, gaming, gambling, tough-guy gangsters and strong espresso is featured on labels and sometimes in the brew.

It's hard to drink a Cigar City beer without thinking of Tampa's past, the Maduro Oatmeal is as dark as the blackest stogie and has a touch of smoke on the

The seasonal and one off brews are crazy with Tampa flavor: Redner's Humidor series is aged in cigar box cedar, the Guava Grove gets a secondary fermentation on the real fruit.

Redner knows and loves this history for he grew up in the heart of it. His father has owned a string of strip clubs in Tampa since the 1960s and had been a colorful character in constant controversy. Joe Redner Sr. has been in court and on TV, the web and the campaign trail defending his businesses as an expression of freedom.

However that Tampa accent is only a grace note on the finish of extremely high quality beer and quality extremes based on Northern European traditional beer.

CCB gets As from Beer Advocate and high marks on Rate Beer. In little over two years, Wambles and Redner have won GABF trophies and placement in hipster New York beer bars as well as a cult following that worships at the brewery every weekend.

Taste what's brewing at Cigar City.

Joey Redner, Jr.

Talk craft beer and Tampa at B-21's Friday Night Beer Tastings of CCB's current releases

Friday, September 9th and 23rd 5:00 pm-7:00 pm Jai Alai IPA 25.4oz................................. $799 Tocobaga 25.4oz..................................... $799 Guava Grove 25.4oz................................ $899 Improvisacion 25.4oz.............................. $899 Big Sound 25.4oz................................... $999 Bolita 25.4oz........................................... $999 Cubano Espresso 4pk............................. $799 Jose Marti Amer. Porter 4pk.................... $799 White Oak Ipa 4pk................................... $899 Oatmeal Raisin Cookie 4pk..................... $799 Maduro Brown Ale 6pk........................... $799 Jai Alai Ipa 6pk....................................... $999

THE STINGER: RUM AND THE CARIBBEAN El Dorado 21yr Demerara

“The first time I played the Masters, I was so nervous I drank a bottle of rum before I teed off. I shot the happiest 83 of my life.” - Chi Chi Rodriguez "The chief fuddling they make in the island is Rumbullion, alias Kill-Divil, and this is made of sugar canes distilled, a hot, hellish, and terrible liquor."

- Anonymous (Barbados c. 1651) Rum is likely a derivation of rumbullion or rumbustion - old slang for uproar - and anyone who has seen me after a few glasses clearly understands the connection. Rum, in one form or another, has oiled the gears of conversation for well over a thousand years.

Sugar-based fermented drinks originated as Chinese traders spread sugar from present-day Indonesia. Around 300 B.C., Alexander the Great observed sugar cane in India, regarding it as "the grass that gives honey without bees."

And 14th century explorer Marco Polo wrote of a "very good wine of sugar" he sampled on his passage through current day Iran.

Late in the 15th century, Christopher Columbus transplanted sugar cane from the Canary Islands to Hispaniola, the large, Caribbean island that now hosts Haiti and the Dominican Republic. Shortly thereafter, the Protestant Reformation in Europe forced the dissolution of bee-cultivating monasteries, causing honey shortages and an increase in the demand for sugar. To accommodate the void, a number of European countries took cues from Columbus's success in Hispaniola and converted their Caribbean interests to sugar production. By the 17th century, sugar had replaced the chief island exports of cotton, ginger, indigo, and tobacco. If there is any illusion as to the significance of sugar at the time, look no further than the British assertion that Barbados was then "the most important jewel in his Majesty's crown."

Over the next century Europe's appetite for sugar grew. In response, Caribbean plantations ramped up production, fueling the exploding industry with African slaves who discovered that they could distill molasses - a byproduct of sugar cane refinement - into rum, a practice that soon found its way north to the United States. This innovation spawned a commerce triangle in which globetrotting skippers transplanted people from Africa to the Caribbean in exchange for molasses, shipped the molasses to New England distilleries where

they traded it for finished rum, and then sailed the rum to Africa as currency for the procurement of additional labor.

Rum varies in its execution depending on the island from which it originates. French speaking countries, like Haiti and Martinique, are known for rums created exclusively from sugar cane juice. Known in French as rhum, these spirits exhibit the original essence of sugar cane. Those from Spanish-speaking countries, such as the Dominican Republic, are typically light and taste fairly clean. "Ron," by the way - think Ron Bacardi - is not some guy's name; it's rum en español. Englishspeaking colonies - Barbados and Guyana, for example - produce fuller, darker spirits with velvety molasses undertones.

On the north coast of South America rests the tropical paradise of Guyana, one of Britain's overseas interests. Taino for "land of the fast flowing water," Guyana is the birthplace of El Dorado's 21-Year-Old Demerara, a dark rum made with sugar, named for the country's quick-flowing river that surges north before discharging its cargo of silt into the Atlantic Ocean. Within six degrees of the equator, Guyana's high humidity and generous sunlight speed the maturation process nearly twofold, creating a rum that tastes as if it has aged for over four decades.

"I’ve been nursing my bottle of El Dorado 21 year old for the past 6 months, treasuring every sip and even grown a little stingy when company hithers. The quality of this aged gem is simply stunning. In the glass is a rich, golden hue with sweet aromas of caramel, honeysuckle, maple, brown sugar and butterscotch. The same honeyed characters are translated on the palate joined by spice and dried fruit. Hints of orange zest and vanilla accompany an incredibly polished finish.

I suggest drinking neat or drop in a single ice cube. This is one insanely delicious rum!"

98 pts, Shannon Sprentall, B-21

98/100: Beverage Tasting Institute of Chicago '03 Gold Award: (Super Premium Category) International Rum Festival, Canada

"Copper color. Rich mocha, toffee, pipe tobacco, and brown spice aromas. A rich, satiny and vibrant entry leads to a smooth, dry-yet-fruity full body of toffee, coffee, and brown spice flavors. Finishes with a seemingly endless, sweet nutty fade with evolving layers of tobacco, chocolate, and spice. A monumental aged rum that is one of the world's greatest rum drinking experiences." 98 pts and Platinum Medal, International Review of Spirits

99

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GERMAN RIESLING & THAI FOOD JUNKIE

by Shannon Sprentall

German Rieslings are super food friendly because they offer various levels of sweet and dry balanced with underlying minerality. I find Riesling in my glass while dining over most ethnic meals like Chinese, Tex Mex and my absolute favorite Thai. I prefer my drier-styled Rieslings (QbA, Charta and Kabinett) with lighter dishes such as Nam Sod (salad) and mixed veggies. With richer coconut based curries and/or super spicy I go a tad sweeter with Spatlese (SHPATE-LAYZUH). The sweetness harmonizes perfectly with chili peppers. Oh, how I wish I could have gotten my hands on some Riesling while living in Thailand to enhance the unforgettable flavors of the fresh, exotic produce and spice. Thankfully, I have found the next best thing! Bua Siam in Palm Harbor currently feeds my Thai addiction at least twice a week. Order take out and give these Rieslings a whirl. De-lish!

2009 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler Noble House Riesling QBA $999

"This displays a rich, supple texture and mouthwatering flavors of peach cobbler, cream, apricot and spice. The lush finish is long and focused, with touches of honey.

Drink now through 2015." 90WS

2009 F. Weins-Prum Riesling Estate $1399 "A harmonious balance gives this a taut and dry character. The silky flavors of pear and guava are pronounced, defined by a rigid acidity that gives length to the flavors on the finish." 90W&S

2009 Johannishof Riesling Charta $1599

"An elegant, racy style, with vibrant acidity underlining the passion fruit, pineapple and grapefruit flavors. Spice and mineral notes add depth, and this glides to a long finish. Drink now through 2020." 91WS

2009 Johannishof Riesling Kabinett V $1899

"Alluring aromas of peach and mineral mark this vibrant, pure Riesling, which is firm yet harmonious, with a lingering aftertaste of spice and mineral.

Shows excellent length. Drink now through 2020."

92WS

2009 Von Schubert Maximin Grunhauser Riesling Kabinett Abtsberg $2999

"Racy and powerful, with a minerally, spicy aroma that leads to ripe flavors of glazed citrus, fennel, smoke and honeydew melon.

There's plenty of dried mango as well, with a long, creamy finish that features peppery notes." 93WS

2009 S.A. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese $3499

An aromatic version, showing lilac, freesia and violet notes, followed by baked apple, black currant and slate flavors. Elegant and tightly wound, with a racy structure well-fused to the rich texture. The appealing aftertaste features notes of candied berries and mineral. Drink now through 2032. 94WS

2007 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Spatlese $3999

"At this stage, this feels much more open and generous than its Sonnenuhr counterpart, showing bright, floral flavors of tangerine and white peach. Its bold, rounded depth of fruit reveals more nuance and complexity the longer this sits in the glass, and it should feel even more focused and complete in a few years, after shedding its initial puppy fat." 93W&S

W H AT ' S H A P P E N I N ’ AT B - 2 1 ?

SEPTEMBER 2011 SUN

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SAVE THE DATE! October 5: Chateau La Nerthe Wine Dinner October 9: Spain & Latin America Wine Festival November 20: Grand Holiday Tasting

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*B-21 Express to Pinellas, Pasco, Tampa counties

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*B-21 Express to Pinellas, Pasco, Tampa counties

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12-3pm: Mt Gay Ext. Old, Gold & Black 1-4pm: Grey Goose 1-5pm: Freeze n Shake Cocktails

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*B-21 Express to **B-21 Express to Pinellas County Jacksonville Sarasota & Bradenton

Complimentary Tastings Wine Tasting *$195 minimum order required Spirits Tasting **$500 minimum order required

Est. 1948

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*B-21 Express to Orlando

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*B-21 Express to Tampa & Polk and East Hillsborough

10 1-3pm: Argentina's Best: Malbec and Torrontes

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to **B-21 Express to 1! *B-21 Express County Vero & West Palm 12 on 2 Pinellas Sarasota & Bradenton

1-3pm: Small Vintners from Italy 12-3pm: Ron Abuelo Rum 1-4pm: Pearl Vodka 1-5pm: Cutty Sark Scotch

24 1-3pm: Taste from our Big World Small Budget picks!

12-3pm: Brugal Rum 1-4pm: Death's Door (Vodka, Gin and White 12-3pm: Appleton Rum Whiskey) 1-4pm: Camarena Tequila 1-5pm: Cazadores 1-5pm: Eristoff Vodka Tequila

*B-21 Express to Tampa, Citrus, Hernando and West Pasco

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12-3pm: Russian Standard Vodka 1-4pm: Camarena Tequila 1-5pm: Caipirinha Cocktails with Pira 51 Cachaca

12-3pm: E & J Brandy VSOP and XO 1-4pm: Alize Liquor 1-5pm: Moscow Mule Cocktails with Russian Standard Vodka

*B-21 Express to **B-21 Express to Pinellas County Naples & Ft. Myers Sarasota & Bradenton

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1-3pm: A Season of Succulence: 2009 Southern Rhones

12-3pm: Mt Gay Ext. Old, Gold & Black 1-4pm: Cupcake Vodka 1-5pm: Bacardi Artic Grape Rum (New)

12-3pm: Mt Gay Ext. Old, Gold & Black 1-4pm: Bombay Sapphire Gin 1-5pm: Freeze n Shake Cocktails

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12-3pm: E & J Brandy VSOP and XO 1-4pm: Fireball Cordials 1-5pm: Rain Organic Vodka

43380 U.S. 19 N P.O. Box 849 Tarpon Springs, FL 34688-0849 888-B21-WINE (221-9463) 727-937-5049

facebook.com/b21wine twitter.com/b21wine b21wineblog.com

Est. 1948

B-21 Wine Company • www.B-21.com • CS@B-21.com • Monday-Saturday 9am-9pm • Sunday 11am-9pm

2011

Spain & Latin America

WINE FESTIVAL AND SALE Sunday, October 9th, 2pm - 5pm

Get ready to experience our own Ruta de Vino here in Tarpon Springs on Sunday, October 9th. Discover new wines from our recent travels and some of your old favorites too. Here to guide you will be special guests from wineries from Rioja, Spain to Mendoza, Argentina. Over 100 wines to explore!

For the serious Spanish connoisseurs, be sure to sign up for a wine seminar to learn first-hand about the winemaking at an estate and taste a specially selected wine not available at the Grand Tasting!

SIGN-UP AT B-21.COM TODAY!

WITH SPECIAL GUESTS: Maria Alvear (Bodegas Alvear) SEMINAR SCHEDULE *Limit 1 seminar per person.

Luis Martinez (Remirez de Ganuza) Jack Guinan (Jorge Ordoñez Estates) • Seminar 1 (1-1:45pm): Jack Guinan of Jorge Ordoñez's Fine Estates of Spain Sara Agós Olano (Bodegas Riojanas) presents the wines of Alto Moncayo Dhane Chesson (Vibrant Rioja) • Seminar 2 (2-2:45pm): Baron Lafite John Kimball (Eric Solomon Selections) Rothschild in Latin America and around the Emilie Rougefort (Bodegas Monteviejo) world presented by Steve Kelley and Eve Bordarier of Pasternak Imports.

Eve Bordarier (Amancaya, Barons Lafite) • Seminar 3 (3-3:45pm): Maria Alvear of and many more coming!!!

Bodegas Alvear will present her incredible sherries including a special PX 1830!

per person

by Friday, October 7th

The city of Logroño, in Rioja, Spain

Includes choice of one (1) seminar per person (limited seating).