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FASHION MAP AYSE KAHRAMAN | N0506544


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Contents Page Introduction..................................................................................1 Methodolodgy...............................................................................2 Trends.............................................................................................4 What influences trends.................................................................8 Impacts of trends..........................................................................12 Globalization.................................................................................16 Trend Forecasting.........................................................................18 Trend Mapping..............................................................................26 Denim.............................................................................................30 Highline..........................................................................................32 Stripes..............................................................................................34 Trend Tracking...............................................................................36 History of Stripes...........................................................................40 Cultural influences.........................................................................42 Social influencess...........................................................................44 Social media....................................................................................46 Stripes on the catwalk....................................................................48 Nottingham shop safari.................................................................50 Nottingham trend tracking...........................................................52 Stripes styling shoot.......................................................................54 Editorial...........................................................................................68 Conclusion.......................................................................................72 References........................................................................................74 Bibliography.....................................................................................76 Appendix..........................................................................................78 Illustrations......................................................................................82


Introduction Fashion map involved working in small groups, analysing the current fashion trends available on the high street this season, using a variety of sources and through primary research such as trend, store and street safari’s. Four key trends were identified, in which one trend had to be chosen that was felt to be the most prominent in Nottingham currently and for the upcoming season. The final trend had to be developed further through research, investigating and exploring document of relevant historical, social and cultural references, that explain the context of the trend and how this trend has being evolving overtime, shown through to how the trend has been interpreted by consumers today. A styling shoot was carried out with five key products currently sold on the high street that showcased the trend in its best evolved form today. This report will include all the above as well as considering the importance of trend forecasting and it’s place in fashion marketing, also, considering the social and environmental influences fashion trends have on todays society.


Methodolodgy Secondary Research involved websites, books and magazines, databases e.g. WGSN, articles and blogs. Primary Research was conducted to gain an insight into todays current fashion trends, as well as, how consumers have adopted these trends shown through the way they are incorporating them into their daily wardrobe. The following were conducted:

1.

2.

3.

Shop Safari : Involved searching Nottingham high street retailers for Spring/ summer 2015 trends that were identified from the catwalk, as well as the final chosen trend.

Trend Tracking : In Nottingham looking at the public street style of the chosen trend.

Interviews : The public who were wearing the chosen trend were asked questions in relation to the trend and purchase of the garment.

4. Location selection : Visiting locations around Nottingham that was in keeping with the chosen trend.

5. Model selection : Choosing appropriate models to suit the chosen trend.

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Fig 2.


“ Trends are in essence very complex mechanisms that mirror changes in the economic and political landscapes (1).�

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Trends “Trends are of course not limited to fashion – they affect all sectors of business and society (2) .” Trends are not exclusively associated with the world of fashion, they can be emotional, intellectual and spiritual but trends refer to a general direction or movement. Trends are all around us and have become an essential part of the consumer world. They are not just relating to the latest fashions but also relate to bigger influences in the way society is moving and what is happening. “Mega trends are global, sustained and macro economic forces of development that impact business, economy, society, cultures and personal lives thereby defining our future world and its increasing pace of change (3).”


Mega trends are the foundation for the development of fashion trends that can be either macro or micro. Macro-trends are specific variations of mega-trends and tend to be long term, these are how fashion trends arise/ unfold, some examples of macro trends in society today are female empowerment, ageing population, globalization, health and wellbeing and smart technology. These trends are just many of a few that relate to what is happening in society today and they will influence the fashion trends of the future, for example, there is a high influence on women’s fashion today to be body confident and expressive, this is not just through designing but through marketing and branding e.g. this girl can campaign, shown in figure 3.

Fig 3. This girl can. Fig 4. Smart technology.

Fig 5. Ageing population.

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what influences trends? “The trend’ is not what it used to be. Many savvy women now follow their own fashion rules, inspired by what they see on the fashion-animated streets, the internet and in the live-streamed fashion shows that are becoming a staple for fashion lovers (4).” Cultural influences on trends include music, art, celebrities, mass media and subcultures. The media has always played a big part in informing consumers, as well as influencing fashion as it develops public interest and excitement on the latest styles and trends through the wide-ranging publications of glamorous photographs, celebrity endorsements and informative articles. The influence of trends by the media has changed, traditional forms of media such as magazines, newspapers and television have become secondary compared to the internet, which arguably the most powerful media around the world for spotting and influencing trends, not just by celebrities but the average person. Fashion journalism has been around since the turn of the 20th century; social media has expanded its range of influence by giving the public an up-close, personal view of the fashion world. Social media has allowed prestigious events such as New York Fashion Week to be available to the worldwide audience, making fashion more accessible as it transcends across all strata’s and is no longer the only associated with the wealthy.


Marie Claire Magazine featuring Spring/ Summer 2014 trends from the catwalk.

Fig 6.

Marie Claire Magazine spread, showing an example of a trend in 2014 issue.

Fig 7.

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Fig 8.

Fig 9.


"Bloggers and tweeters are becoming even more important as they provide consumers with an inside look into the latest trends and styles (5).� As social media has made fashion and style more accessible than ever, with Facebook recorded 1.39 billion users at the end of 2014, and Instagram growing to over 300 million users, with over 70 million photos and videos being shared every day, it is driving how consumers shop and what consumers are wearing. Fashion bloggers especially have become a key part of informing consumers of the new trends as well as promoting brands, for example, figure 8 and 9 are examples of popular bloggers on many social media channels. A social media survey conducted by TKMaxx showed that 37% of Brits said that seeing what others wear on social media inspires them to try something new. Due to this it is changing the way people shop, consumers have higher awareness levels of a wide variety of fashion trends, allowing consumers to be more up to date, experimental and be inspired all the time through social media. It is also influencing the amount people particularly women shop and purchase.

“The average British woman purchases an astonishing 68 new garments and seven new pairs of shoes every year (6) .�

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impacts of trends Since 1990’s retailers have focused on expanding their product ranges, to ensure that they have updated products with fast responsiveness to the newest fashion trends and that also provide refreshing products. However, today fast fashion is at the forefront of the fashion industry. The increase of technology and easy access to trends present and future combined together are allowing fashion brands to produce fast fashion creating consumers that are impulsive shopping and blinded by the thrill of possessing something new as often as they can, without asking too many questions about the origin of the clothes they are purchasing and how much they are purchasing. This has number effects on fashion retailers, economy as well as the environment.

“Consumers are becoming more demanding and fashion savvy which is forcing fashion retailers to provide the right product at the right time in the market – in other words, provide quick (fast) fashion (7).” Fast fashion is a manufacturing process that describes the change in the last decade in garment production and retailing from two to four seasons, to no seasons at all, meaning retailers produce clothing that is continuously rotated in and out of stores throughout the year. Due to the continuous downfall of the UK economy, which is gradually improving today, consumers had less disposable income; fast fashion allows retailers, such as, H&M and Zara, to provide quick and low cost prices competitively, whilst being on trend, enticing consumers to continuously spend, even when they may not have enough disposable income or the need, which sustains the fashion industry profits and growth.


“Consumer behavior may never significantly change. People will always want to be stylish, and the profits of major fashion chains don’t go down along with the buildings their clothes are made in (8) .� However fast fashion puts pressure on retailers especially manufactures. Retailers will want manufactures that can produce high levels of turnover but at low costs and due to this they go to developing countries in which they can exploit workers, paying cheap labour costs and ignore dangerous working conditions, in order to maintain their profit margins. An example is the building collapse in Bangladesh, in which more than 800 workers died and many more injured whilst sewing garments for these fast fashion retailers due to an unstable manufacturing factory shown in figure 10. Fig 10.

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Fig 11.


“Back in 2007, forum for the futures report fashioning sustainability, highlighted the fact that the fashion industry is locked into a cycle of unsustainability using more and more of the earths resources and in some cases exploiting t cheap labour supplies in return for ever-decreasing profit margins (9) .� Fast fashion also means that people are purchasing more than ever before, garments are being thrown away more than often due to the ever-changing trends and this is causing high levels of waste, which is polluting and damaging the environment. Fashion influences unstable consumption both in resources and by people.

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“It is estimated that more than 1 million tonnes of textiles are thrown away every year (10) .” The secret world of clothes documentary on the BBC, shows the realization of the impacts of trends, fashion and consumer behavior/ spending. Second hand clothing that cannot be sold is shipped abroad, in particular, Ghana in Africa. 30,000 tons of used clothes arrive in Ghana each year, which has created a whole new economy in Africa worth over £50 million a year.

“The culture of Ghana, had faded, and become more westernized, individuality is lacking, and second hand clothing is killing the culture (11) .” The second hand clothing industry provides a wide variety of western branded products, which has taken over the Ghana markets and the traditional dress, due to being more affordable and there being lots of it, this has lead to the replacement of the traditional Ghanaian garments and is effecting the culture and the textile industry in Ghana.

“Akosombo Textiles, one of Ghana’s largest manufacturers, was producing nearly 2 million metres a month in 2009, but this has fallen by 75 per cent (12) .” Its not just the Ghana culture at risk due to western fashion but the Ghana textile industry is also at risk, many textile factories have closed and this has lead to high losses of jobs, which will then have an effect on the Ghana economy, this will not just stop at Ghana and it is a worldwide issue for the future.


Fig 12..

Fig 13.

Fig 14.

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Fig 15.

“Globalisation has lead to cultures being flooded with new and different ideas and beliefs, which can drastically alter peoples’ lives (13).”


globalisation Globalization has influenced trade and commerce as it has brought countries together, technological innovations in the world such as the internet is one of the ways in which globalization has brought countries closer together, the movement of people, goods and capital has become easier. Globalisation has become a big part in all areas of the fashion industry as it allows designers and brands to have a bigger influence over today’s consumer. Fashion has grown tremendously within the last decade, with the growing ease and accessibility of the latest fashion trends becoming more readily available to consumers all over the world. Trend turnover is quicker than it used to be due to globalization, however, fashion trends today have become more similar worldwide due to consumers all being influenced and consuming similar aspects, which is a positive for retailers but negative as it takes away individuality of cultures and people. The future holds many challenges for all areas of the global fashion industry, for example, resource shortages, climate change, demographic change, new technologies, and shifts in the global economy will affect businesses, customers and the world in ways that are hard to anticipate and prepare for, which can both effect trends and trend forecasters.

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Fig 16.

“Trend forecasters are lifestyle detectives: men and women who spend their time detecting patterns or shifts in attitudes, mind-sets or lifestyle options, that run against current thinking or how people normally behave, live, communicate and trade (14).�


“Trend forecasting is all about predicting the future trends in all aspects of life and design based upon in depth research (15).�

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trend forecasting Trend forecasting now underpins all aspects of society where it is important to understand the short, medium and long-term impacts of new and emerging changes that currently take place in the culture around us. These changes can be large scale impacting on many areas of the world from science, to technology and the arts. Trend forecasters research current world situations and the directions that social and economic circumstances are taking, in order to predict trends both macro and micro. These trends, over time, convert into consumer trends and transfer into the mass market, or develop into a new way of living, in which designers have to be aware of and design to adapt to this new cultural and social changes. Many trends would run though a lifespan process, from the start of the trend (the trend forecast) to the trend being adapted into the mass market and eventually diffused out. This is known as the Diffusion of Innovation by Everett Rogers and then updated by Ryan and Gross. The Diffusion Theory system indicates the popularity and following of a trend.


Fig 17. The Diffusion theory

“It does so in the form of an S-shape curve, the lower part of the S being occupied by our Innovators and Early Adopters, the upper parts by our Early Majority, Late Majority and Laggards (16) .� The Diffusion Theory is used to see where trends are heading and determine the strength and duration of a trend as indicated by the curve and the consumer demand remaining.

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Fig 18. Trend life cycle graph.

Although the diffusion curve is a basic reference for determine the forecast even more precise, there are unanswered questions, such as, whether the trend will be a flop, fad, fashion or ford shown, which Nuutinen (2004), and Sproles & burns, (1994) call the trend life cycle.


Henrik Vejlgaard’s Diamond Shaped Trend Model is a recording system that allows trend forecasters to map rough calculations of how long a trend will last based upon the influences, such as, the availability and levels of technology, the area in which people live, to name a few. From the model you can also see how the trend is moving and diffusing from one group of people to another, such as trendsetters to conservatives. By using these trend theories, trend forecasters can identify the life span of the predicted trends.

Fig 19. Dimond Shaped Trend Model.

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“In an era of social media and hyper-connectivity, trend forecasting is becoming more and more important for business. And it is therefore also becoming a big and highly competitive business (17) .” Amongst the every growing globalisation of consumer markets, trend forecasting enables fashion businesses to prepare for and meet consumer demands with products that will be accepted and purchased, as well as ensuring what they are selling will bring in high levels of profit, making their company more competitive within the fashion industry. The current UK economy is still in difficult times, and by retailers and designers using trend forecasting it enables them to be more competitive, especially due to the ever-growing competition from online retailers.

“Fashion & trend forecasting is the prediction of mood, behavior and buying habits of the consumer at particular time of season (18) .” Specific technology advancements have changed the industry of trend forecasting, especially changing fashion forecasting, for example, Runway shows have been made available to consumers 24 hours after the show and recently now they can be viewed instantly by live streaming. Fast fashion is remaining to be more popular, there is a continuous need to make pieces that will sell tomorrow and further into the future, and trend forecasting plays a vital role as it provides these solutions. Forecasting is also very important in marketing as it helps to give clear indications of what future demand for goods and services are likely to be. As marketing involves anticipating customer needs and requirement, forecasting then make it possible to respond to these changes.

“Fashion is an interconnected world enterprise (19) .” All trends are interconnected within the fashion industry, trend forecaster, designers, buyers, merchandisers, marketers and retailers, all work together and play a key role in the direction of upcoming trends, for example, If buyers and merchandisers are not convinced on a trend which the trend forecasters have identified, then this trend may not be chosen to feature within retail.


Fig 20.

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Fig 21.


“How relevant is the catwalk to the clothes most people actually wear?” the answer is that without designer level fashion, high street fashion would have no impetus to move forward (20) .”

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trend mapping Trends are evolving all the time throughout the year; this can be seen through retailers, street style and the media. It has become important today to keep up with trends and to find out what is going to be the key trends for the upcoming seasons, which is where the catwalk plays a vital role.

“The High Street is very much influenced by what they see at London Fashion Week (21) .” The runway shows play into and transforms existing trends, which the high street retailers take influence from, however the transition from catwalk to high street does not always happen within the same season as some trends do take a while to filter through. The current main key trends that can be seen on the spring/summer catwalk 2015 are floral, 70’s Boho, stripes, high line, denim, khaki and many more. The three key trends that have been identified further from the catwalk and which can be seen amongst the Nottingham high street are stripes, high line and denim. These trends were influenced by secondary and primary research, which involved conducting a shop safari.


Fig 22.

Fig 23.

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Fig 24

Fig 25.

Fig 27.

Fig 26.

Fig 28.

28 Fig 27.


Denim Denim has seized the menswear catwalk of spring/ summer 2015, with designers such as; Fendi, Prada and Burberry showcasing their take on denim today. Taking denim ever so slightly further back to its roots, the 1970s to be precise and incorporating rock and roll in denim, was Saint Laurent. From light to dark washes, trim to oversized fits; denim isn’t just for jeans this season. The high-street sees denim dominate in looks from smart to casual and with a hint of the past through extreme washes, such as, acid, bleach and distressing shown by retailers such as, Urban Outfitters, Topman and Mango. The denim shirt and jacket is well and truly back for spring summer 2015, shown through all these retailers in the mood board, however, it is looking smarter this season, with being repositioned as a sophisticated piece for the male wardrobe, due to the boxy shaped with contrast top stitching.


Fig 29.

Fig 30.

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Fig 31.

Fig 32.


Highline Highline is an elegant trend combining artistic sheer florals with Professional structured pieces. Highline is all about the city chic, taking main inspiration from the big apple and its infamous highline park. Topshop is a key high-street retailer in which the highline trend can be clearly seen. The trend has key tailored pieces such as cigarette trousers and macs.. The colour palette is soft with many black, white, cream and pastel pieces. The trend can be seen spotted down the catwalk from designers such as Christian Dior, Balenciaga and DKNY.

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Stripes Stripes are a constant trend that keeps making its way onto the catwalk and the high street. Stripes this season have ruled the catwalks in a fun and eclectic way as shown in the mood board. Designers such as Louis Vuitton showcased bicolor and multidirectional stripes; Balmain offered bold multicolor garments, including irregular dimensions of stripes, while Dries Van Noten garments were composed of similar shades of color but completely different stripes. Stripes have been constant seen throughout high-street retailers outlets e.g. Topshop, Zara, H&M, however are showcasing a new twist to the trend with dramatic and mix matching stripes, as well as adding a nautical-inspired twist.


Fig 33.

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Fig 34.


Trend Tracking These trends are prominent amongst the catwalk and in high-street retailers, but are these trends popular and being worn by the consumer, which will determine whether the trend will be successful as well as having a short or long trend life cycle, this was the question faced when choosing a trend to develop further. So due to this, it was necessary to look amongst the Nottingham public. In Nottingham it was clear to see that due to it being a student-orientated city, there was high levels of young adults following trends compared to the older public. Some of the rends that were clear to see on the Nottingham streets were sports, floral, stripes and khaki. However, some of these trends were not as visibly trendy, this was due to some of the non student public wearing the trends in more of a casual, under styled way, not maximising its potential. Also the weather and the location could be a potential reason why these trends were worn this way, for example, Nottingham has a relaxed, casual atmosphere and is not as fashion forward as other locations, such as, Nottingham and Manchester etc. After conducting the trend tracking in Nottingham, it was clear to see that stripes was a prominent trend, not only with the public but also in Nottingham high street retailers, and is a key trend showcased on the catwalk for spring summer 2015. However, it was clear to see that stripe trend has evolved this season, with a quirkier, trendy and modernised take on the trend.

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Fig 35.


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History of Stripes Fig 36.

Medieval Times

The striped pattern is one that can be dated all the way back to the medieval times where it was seen as a shameful pattern to wear, this is due to being mainly worn by prostitutes, prisoners, clowns and hangmen.

Fig 37.

1846

Fig 38.

19th Century (1858)

After this period the stripe pattern did not make much of a statement in the fashion world until 1846 when queen victoria dressed price Albert in a blue and white striped sailing suit, whilst boarding the royal yacht, bringing it to the public eye.

In 1858 the French naval uniform was also changed to a blue and white shirt, this consisted of 21 stripes, each symbolising one of Napoleons victories.


Fig 40.

Fig 39.

1920 Swim Style

Stripes moved into Europe in which it was incorporated swimwear pieces for both men and women and became widely popular.

Fig 41.

1930’s Coco Chanel

Chanel inspired the minimalistic look of the stripe by incorporating the pattern into her own designs in the 1930s . Coco channel influenced designers of the present day to incorporate the stripe patterns into their designs, such as, paul smith, john paul gauiter and so on.

Present day

Today stripes remain popular amongst all ages and genders and have become a staple item in our wardrobes.

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Culture of Stripes Preppy describes a subculture of upper class youths. The ivy style reflects traditional upper class New England leisure activities and is influenced by traditional collegiate trends. Stripes was seen a staple pattern incorporated in many of these trends. This preppy subculture had high influence and paved the way for the ivy style which was a fashion trend of the 1950s, since then designers such as marc Jacobs, tommy Hilfiger are j crew are just a few who have added a modernized approach to the Ivy League Style to accommodate continuing preppy trend.

preppy subculture

Fig 42.


Mod is a subculture that began in swinging 1960s Britain and spread in varying degrees, to other countries. They were a fashion-obsessed and hedonistic cult of the hyper-cool young adults. French fashion remained a great influence for the mods, the stripe t-shirt is a French iconic product which is a signature part of the mod casual look. The mods gave the stripe t-shirt a new lease of life associating it with being young and exciting. They Made stripes trendy and popular from the 1960s onwards by wearing a stripe top, which became a signature part of the mod style back then and still today.

MODS

Fig 42.

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Social influences of stripes Celebrities are highly influential today and in the past as they are role models for consumers and are drivers of trends. Stripes are a trend that can be seen popular amongst all kinds of celebrities from musicians to models and artists. These are highly influential celebrities from the past that can be seen wearing stripe outfits and are well known for stripes to be incorporated into their style today.

Twiggy was a trendsetter, a daring dresser, and an icon in her own right. The bold striped monochrome shift dress, which she is wearing gave stripes a new lease of life associating stripes with being youthful and daring. Brian Jones a legendary musician this striped Mod tailored suit is outfit of a many which you can see Brian sporting the stripe look, which he made them stand out and look trendy.

past CELEBRITY influence Fig 43.


Present day celebrities have become more influencial than ever with “48 per cent of women say celebrities impact strongest on personal style (22) .� Rihanna and Kendal Jenner are showcasing matching two-piece outfits, which is a new modern twist on stripes today but still keeping the classic look that is appealing to the trend conscious consumer. Whereas, Rita ora is in keeping the nautical stripe vibe however she has combined the sports trend with stripes to create a trendy, youthful outfit.

pRESENT CELEBRITY influence

Fig 44.

Fig 45.

Fig 46.

Fig 47.

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Social media As social media is a big part of society today, it is a new way in which trends have kept significant amongst society. Social media is allowing consumers to express their fashion style, which is something that may not be regularly seen on today’s streets. Social media allows people to see the trends in particular stripes being worn in unique, exciting and modern ways, which has high influence over the stripe trend by making it more appealing to not only the trend conscious consumer but the everyday consumer. Through looking at present social media sights, it is clear to see that stripes have remained popular amongst the public today and have an enduring appeal. The stripe style has evolved and modernised compared to the past, this can be seen through bolder and brighter stripes, mix matching and colour clashing. Vertical stripes have become as classic as the Breton stripe . Today stripes have become a stylist statement amongst the fashion conscious consumer.


Fig 49.

Fig 48. Fig 50.

Fig 51.

Fig 52.


STRIPES ON THE Catwalk Stripes stormed the spring summer 2015 catwalk with designers incorporating a modern twist on the print. The catwalk witnessed fresh and rebellious stripes from Marni and DKNY. Dynamic stripes were bold and present from valentino. The nautical theme continued with Tanya Taylor, Sailor stripes are a Resort staple, but this season they were bolder, brighter takes on the classic marinière motif that made it feel fresh. Elie saab has mixed bold floral prints with dramatic black vertical stripes throughout his collection. The varying thicknesses, directions and use of refreshing bold colours allowing stripes to be the main emphasis of dries van noten ss15 collection. As stripes have been a prominent trend on the catwalks, this inspiration for designers would of partly been influenced by trend forecasters. These catwalk designers have high influence over high street fashion, and due to this, it will mean stripes have the possibility of becoming a key trend within high-street fashion. Stripes has always been a trend but due to this season, designers have took the stripe in a unique, modern direction , this could be the possible new revolution of stripes and could change the way we see it now.


marni

Dries Van Noten

dkny

Fig 53.

Fig 54.

Fig 55.

Fig 56.

Fig 57.

Fig 58.

Chloe

Tanya Taylor

Valentino

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Nottingham shop safari In Nottingham primary research was carried out amongst retail stores to find out if the stripe trend is prominent on the high street. The majority of the stores on the high-street had at least one stripe item. High street stores such as American Apparel, Joules, River Island and Radley all had window displays that showcased stripped clothing and accessories, showing that the stripes is a current trend for this spring summer. Stripes in certain retailers ,such as Zara, a fashion forward brand, were more dramatic, mix matching and had a nautical-inspired stripe twist to their garments. New look compared to Zara used the classic Breton stripe but with an emphasis on sport. The deck chair style stripes were prominent throughout the high street on tailored dresses and jackets shown by marks & spencer’s and river island, giving a very English seaside vibe. As the spring/summer 15 catwalks showcased high levels of stripes with a modern twist, the high street has taken influence from this, however, there may be much more to come from high street retailers in regards to the new interpretation of the stripe trend as today many retailers still continue to place high emphasis on the classic stripe.


JOULES Fig 59.

Fig 62.

AMERICAN APPAREL

TOPSHOP

river island Fig 61.

Fig 60.

Fig 63.

WAREHOUSE

Fig 64.

ZARA

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Trend Tracking Primary research was carried out in the streets of Nottingham, tracking the stripe trend amongst the Nottingham public and asking consumers and high street staff their thoughts on the stripe trend which can be seen more detailed in appendix 2. It was clear to see on the Nottingham streets that stripes is a prominent trend, however, many of the consumers where wearing the classic Breton stripe in a casual, under styled way. As it has been said before the Nottingham atmosphere is relaxed in regards to fashion, the classic Breton stripe is more of a basic and less fashion forwards piece, so this is one of the reasons why this classic stripe has been prominent within Nottingham, and is also one of the reasons there is not a wide variety of consumers shown in this report. However, the images below are taken of the Nottingham public wearing the classic Breton stripe with a stylish touch. When Emily was asked what was appealing about the stripe trend, she said, that the stripe trend is flattering to the figure and a classic look. In figure 68 you can see the Breton stripe with a twist, which is a garment that was brought 3 months ago, this shows how the inspiration from the catwalks has had an influence on the retailers but is taking its time to modernise to its new interpretation on the high-street.

classic, breton stripe

Fig 65.

Fig 66.

Fig 67.

Fig 68.


“Stripes are everywhere in Topshop for spring/summer 2015 and are becoming one of the hottest trends in store (23).” On the streets of Nottingham there was a few examples of consumers wearing a quirkier version of the stripe as seen in the images below. The consumers wearing stripes that have a modern twist where mostly university students, who are fashion followers and trend conscious. The garments were either from Topshop, H&M and Newlook, which are high-street retailers that produce fast fashion and take high influence from catwalk designers. “This season at Newlook we have seen more stripe products than ever before, some of which are bolder and brighter than the classic stripe pattern, that we usually see (24) .” Stripes are being combined with other key trends for this spring summer season, such as, 70s, which has upscale the trend recreating stripes as a more stylish and up to date than it has been portrayed before. In figure 70 the stripe dress from H&M looks like a deck chair with bold, bright and colour clashing stripes. Figure 69, 72 and 73 are all products from Topshop, which is a fashion forward high street retailer, which is clear to see they have taken inspiration from the catwalk, as they have made vertical stripes a new key trend for this season. The new, modern, revolutionary take on stripes is something that may not be as prominent in Nottingham as it could be in London as consumers are more reserved, less fashion forward as well as the limited range of fashion forward stores.

quirky stripe

Fig 69

Fig 70.

Fig 71.

Fig 72.

Fig 73.

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Fig 74.


STRIPES Styling Shoot

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Styling Shoot As stripes has an historical background associating the trend with nautical and beach image, this will always be a key significant presentation of the trend, which was an important factor when deciding on themes for the shoot. However, as the stripe trend is evolving and modernizing but is continuing to take the beach as inspiration but in more of a colourful and bold way, this has been seen above with catwalk and high-street designing deck chair styled garments and bold bright colours that look like an array of ice cream colours you would see at the beach. A few themes were explored in regards to portraying the stripe trend in the correct way as shown in figures 75 to 76. The urban theme was not as ideal for the stripe trend due to being too plain and would not show the trend in its best possible light, which would be an issue when trying to market stripes for spring summer 15, as consumers may not be able to connect with the trend in a way they may have done before in past seasons. The two themes that were chosen are the beach and zebra crossing theme shown in Appendix 4. The zebra crossing theme is a modern twist on the stripes trend, which is highly effective as it contrasts well with the pattern. The key inspiration for the shoot are the historical background of stripes as stripes today are coming away from the norm, so stripping it back to it origin was key in order to effectively market the trend and create that emotional connection and gain consumer loyalty to the trend. The five key items chosen for the shoot can be seen in Appendix 3 they include, two shirt dresses, jumpsuit, jumper and culottes. These items have all been chosen from the high street stores in Nottingham and are pieces that portray the new evolved style of the stripes today for the current spring/summer 15 and the future of the stripes trend. The location for the beach shoot situated in Nottingham at The rum house bar, it was chosen as the interior inside the building was quirky, full of character and colour as well had a nautical theme running throughout. The second location was also situated in Nottingham, outside Bonninghton. When selecting a model it was key she looked on trend, has a modern feel and easy to relate to in order to effectively market the trend.


Fig 75.

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The images taken from the styling shoot and the five products that have chosen is targeted to a female market, who is fashionable and trend conscious, this is the reason why it is going to be featured in grazia magazine. The grazia readers are highly inspired by catwalk designers and are more adventurous than other magazine readers such as, look magazine. Due to this, as the stripe trend this season has evolved from the norm of its classic look, this could be more appealing and effective to this type of reader.

Fig 87.


EDITORIAL

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On the left hand page: Candy stripe Topshop dress. On the top right hand page: H&M deckchair stripe dress. On the bottom right hand page: Zara vertical stripe culottes.


Stripes

is forever a fashion trend, normally it is portrayed in its classic nautical/Breton form, until this season that is, stripes are back to give your wardrobe a fresh new feel, as this trend is staying with serious power. Stripes has been up-scaled with a stylish up to date feel, that can be combined with other key trends on the high-street, keeping you on trend this season.

STRIPES STRIPE UP YOUR LIFE The

high street is making way for bold, adventurous stripes in an array of directions that are endlessly flattering and feminine. From wide leg culottes to clean cut shirtdresses, experiment with dimension and take your stripes to new heights. It’s time to take your stripes down to the beach, as these clashing colours are not for the faint hatred. Dress up or down stripes, for a day to night look, which there is no denying the enduring appeal and comfort.


CONCLUSION Overall, the evidence from above shows that trends are everywhere around us in society, especially today, as we have trend forecasters that are constantly undertaking research and analyzing society in a whole, in order to cater the ever growing fashion retailers and designers, so society can keep on moving forward, updating and reproducing new and fresh ideas. There are many factors that impact and influence trends, from globalization to fast fashion, the environment, technology and the media. Fashion trends cause issues from poor working conditions to waste and using up resources, that have high influences on the future of fashion. The chosen trend to be taken further was stripes; this was selected due to high levels of sufficient secondary and primary research data to support the trend being key for spring/summer 15, as well as considering the potential of the trend in the future. Stripes is a trend that has continuously been repetitive, it has always been around and stayed in fashion, in which its trend lifecycle has been long lasting and still continues to be a significant trend as shown throughout the report, this shows better signs for the environment as fashion trends, tend to cause high levels of waste, but as this trend has always been around, many of the products may have had a longer last life cycle than in comparisons to other trends, such as, sheer. The catwalk is highly influential on high-street retailing and it clear to see that stripes have continued to be a key trend popping up on the catwalk. The shop safari that was carried out on Nottingham high street showcased high levels of the stripe trend. The high street retailers that portrayed stripes in its new evolved style were fashion forward, such as, H&M, Topshop, Zara and River island, these are all fast fashion retailers.


Fast fashion is allowing consumers to purchase more than ever before, due to the ever-changing trends, this could have repercussions for the stripe trend in the future. The stripe trend has evolved from its classic Breton stripe and has taken a bolder, quirkier direction, the reason why the classic stripe has had a long trend lifecycle may be due to being a casual, simple piece, due this, the new take on stripes may just result in a high sales for retailers now but the following seasons may lead to high levels of waste for the environment. However, the stripe trend has been highly successful in the past and continues today especially through social media. As shown above stripes have had high levels of coverage with fashion bloggers, online articles, online retailers e.g. Topshop and social media sights for example, Instagram. Social media is making all types of consumers aware of the stripe trend, even if they are not looking for it, which is beneficial for the stripe trend in order to popularize it and increase its trend life cycle and significance. Celebrities are highly influential and are ÂŹone of the driving forces of the stripe trend. The styling shoot for stripes was successful as the five products portrayed the new, modernized, bold, stripes trend its evolved form. The location and models were perfect fits for representing and marketing the trend. However, there was a few issues with the zebra crossing location as we found, that infrastructure background was not as appealing and clean cut as the rum bar location of the nautical inspired interior. Stripes are classic, staple trend that is here to stay and the future prediction is bright. The stripes trend has been clearly seen in Nottingham; however, in other locations the trend may be more prominent due to being a more fashion forward city. In the next coming months the stripe trend will start to become more noticeable as many high street retailers have been selling these garments and during the summer, consumers dress more bright and fun and will be wearing these garments on their summer holidays.

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appendix appendix 1


appendix 2

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appendix appendix 3


appendix 4

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illustrations Fig 1- Fashion trend collage, Elle, Available at URL: http://payload297.cargocollective.com/1/13/446471/8242538/GuillaumeBriere_TrendReport_FW14_Elle_06.jpg (Accessed 26.05.15)

Fig 17- The Diffusion theory , sphweb, Available at URL: http://sphweb.bumc.bu.edu/otlt/MPH-Modules/SB/SB721-Models/ Distribution.png (Accessed 27.05.15)

Fig 2- Fashion trends, Elle, Available at URL: http://payload276.cargocollective.com/1/5/188617/7837897/0090_EC_ Aug13_1200.jpg (Accessed 26.05.15)

Fig 18- trend lifecycle graph, blog, Available at URL: http://blog.datalicious.com/assets/sites/2/dffc0trendlifecycle.gif (Accessed 27.05.15)

Fig 3- This girl can campaign, fast company, Available at URL: http://b.fastcompany.net/multisite_files/fastcompany/imagecache/ inline-large/inline/2015/01/3040869-inline-i-1-the-girl-can-campaigngets-british-women-moving.jpg (Accessed 26.05.15) Fig 4 – Smart Technology, Google, Available at URL: http://o13wn2wowhh45hkqimatw019.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/ wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Smart-technolog-cover.png (Accessed 26.05.15) Fig 5 – Ageing population, news track, Available at URL: http://www.news-track.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/ImageVaultHandler.aspx_.jpg (Accessed 26.05.15) Fig 6 – Marie Claire cover, Marie Claire, Available at URL: http:// marieclaire.media.ipcdigital.co.uk/11116/00007b984/2828_ orh100000w440/marie-claire-runway.jpg Fig 7- trend spread, word press, Available at URL: https://ornamentalelements.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/red-black3. png (Accessed 26.05.15) Fig 8- Screenshot of fashion bloggers website, she wears fashion, Available at URL: http://www.shewearsfashion.com (Accessed 26.05.15) Fig 9- Screenshot of lily Melrose blog , instagram, Available at URL: https://instagram.com/llymlrs/ (Accessed 26.05.15) Fig 10 – Bangladesh building collapse, Wikimedia, Available at URL: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0c/Dhaka_Savar_ Building_Collapse.jpg (Accessed 26.05.15) Fig 11 – Fashion revolution, pinterest , Available at URL: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/415808978068013547/ (Accessed 27.05.15) Fig 12- Secret lives of clothes, Telegraph, Available at URL: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10961849/The-secret-life-of-your-charity-shop-cast-offs.html (Accessed 27.05.15) Fig 13- second hand clothes in Ghana, Ghana celebrities, Available at URL: http://ghanacelebritiescom.c.presscdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Second-hand-clothing-Ghana.jpg (Accessed 27.05.15) Fig 14- Ghana market,compassion, Available at URL: http://www.compassion.com/multimedia/Haiti-women-at-clothesmarket.jpg (Accessed 27.05.15) Fig 15- Mix of cultures, pinterest, Available at URL: https://www. pinterest.com/pin/559501953679107670/ (Accessed 27.05.15)

Fig 16 – people wallpaper, pinterest, Available at URL: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/502784745874957966/ (Accessed 27.05.15)

Fig 19- diamond shape model, Google, Available at URL: http://image.slidesharecdn.com/fashionforecasting-111009151330-phpapp01/95/fashion-forecasting-6-728.jpg?cb=1318173768 (Accessed 27.05.15) Fig 20- Burberry livestream show, fashioncave passion, Available at URL: http://www.fashionavecpassion.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/ Burberry-Prorsum-Mens-livestream-Fashion-avec-Passion-Janina-Nectara-1.jpg (Accessed 27.05.15) Fig 21- Channel ss15 runway, CDN , Available at URL: http://cdn.pursuitist.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/chanel_SpringSummer-2015-Haute-Couture.jpg (Accessed 27.05.15) Fig 22- 70s trend, pinterest, Available at URL: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/565061084472180902/ (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 23- Gucci ss15 collection, pinterest, Available at url: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/76561262391497141/ (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 24- Henry holland ss15, Pinterest, Available at URL: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/537265430520626528/ (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 25- chloe ss15, Pinterest, Available at URL: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/561331541030515901/ (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 26- Marc Jacobs ss15 collection, pinterest, Available at URL: https:// www.pinterest.com/pin/431430839281087380/ (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 27- Topshop ss15, Pinterest, available at URL: https://www.pinterest. com/pin/140667188337754647/ (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 28- Chloe ss15, Pinterest, Available at URL; https://www.pinterest.com/pin/467600373786629751/ (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 29-. denim catwalk ss15, screenshot, (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 30. denim highstreet, ss15, screenshot (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 31. Highline catwalk ss15, screenshot (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 32. Highline high street ss15, Screenshot (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 33. Stripes high street and catwalk, Screenshot (Accessed 28.05.15) Fig 34 – Marni ss 15, pinterest, Available at URL: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/341921796686028652/ (Accessed 29.05.15)


Fig 35- stripes spring/summer 15 trend, blonde salad, Available at URL:Fig 51- Stripe Jumper, pinterest, Available at URL: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/88242473925204733/ (Accessed 30.05.15) http://www.theblondesalad.com/2015/04/spring-summer-2015trends-stripes-everywhere.html Fig 52- Stripe street outfit, pinterest, Available at URL: (Accessed 29.05.15) https://www.pinterest.com/pin/88242473924123859/ (Accessed 30.05.15) Fig 36- Medieval times, crafty costume, Available at URL: http://www.craftycostume.com/images/41.jpg (Accessed 29.05.15) Fig 53-Marni ss15 collection, pinterst, Available at URL: Fig 37 -Prince Albert Image, Available at URL; https://www.pinterest. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/450430400206113195/ (Accessed 30.05.15) com/pin/92675704806583673/ (Accessed 29.05.15) Fig 38- 19th Century French navy uniform, Available at URL; http:// Fig 54- Dries Van noten ss15 collection, pinterest, Available at URL: www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2014/06/stripes-and-sea-history-of-bre- https://www.pinterest.com/pin/88242473925065501/ (Accessed 30.05.15) ton-top.html (Accessed 29.05.15) Fig 55- DKNY SS15 collection, pinterest, Available at URL: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/88242473925065483/ (Accessed 30.05.15) Fig 39- Swim Style stripes, Available at URL; http://stylebubble. co.uk/style_bubble/2009/12/heal-suits.html (Accessed 29.05.15) Fig 56- Chloe SS15 Collection, pinterest, Available at URL: http://www.journelles.de/resort-2015-chloe/ (Accessed 30.05.15) Fig 40- Coco Chanel wearing stripes, Available at URL; https:// iamthewindowshopper.wordpress.com/tag/breton-stripes/ (Accessed Fig 57- Tanya taylor stripe dress, pinterest, Available at URL: 29.05.15) https://www.pinterest.com/pin/88242473924107781/ (Accessed 30.05.15) Fig 41- Stripe street style, Self taken, (Accessed 03.05.15) Fig 58- Valentino stripe dress, Pinterest, Available at URL: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/88242473924123863/ (Accessed 30.05.15) Fig 42- preppy subculture and mods screenshot from presentation, (Accessed 29.05.15) Fig 59- Joules Nottingham store window, self taken( Accessed 03.05.2015) Fig 60- Topshop stripe trousers in Nottingham store, Self taken (Accessed Fig 43- past celebrity influences , screenshot from presentation 03.05.15) (Accessed 29.05.15) Fig 61 – Stripe river island blazer in Nottingham store, Self taken (Accessed 03.05.15) Fig 62- American Apparel window display, Nottingham, Self taken (Accessed 03.05.15) Fig 63- stripe cardigan, warehouse Nottingham store, Self taken (Accessed 03.05.15) Fig 45- Kendal jenner wearing stripes, dailymail,, Available at URL: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3077535/Kendall-Jen- Fig 64- Zara window display of stripes, Nottingham store, Self taken (Acner-wears-stripes-Khloe-Kardashian-squeezes-tight-LBD-furniture- cessed 03.05.15) Fig 65- Stripe top, Self taken (Accessed 17.04.15) shopping-mom-Kris-film-KUWTK.html (Accessed 29.05.15) Fig 66- Stripe top, Self taken (Accessed 17.04.15) Fig 67- Street style stripe dress, self taken (Accessed 20.04.15) Fig 46- Rita ora wearing stripes, pinterest, Available at URL: Fig 68- stripe jumper, self taken (Accessed 23.04.15) https://www.pinterest.com/pin/88242473925204722/ (Accessed Fig 69- Topshop dress, self taken (Accessed 25.04.15) 29.05.15) Fig 70- Stripe dress, self taken (Accessed 16.04.15) Fig 47- Kristen stweart wearing stripes, harpers bizarre, Available at Fig 71- Stripe baseball top, self taken (Accessed 23.04.15) Fig 72- Stripe dress, self taken (Accessed 25.04.15) URL: Fig 73- Stripe trousers, Self taken (Accessed 25.04.15) http://assets-prod.harpersbazaar.co.uk/people-and-parties/Best_ Dressed/2015/January/kristenstewart.jpg (Accessed 29.05.15) Fig 74 – Fashion image, pinterest, Available at URL: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/195836283772070864/ (Accessed Fig 48- Stripe street style, pinterest,, available at URL: 02.06.15) https://www.pinterest.com/pin/88242473925065494/ (Accessed Fig 75- Beach theme board, screenshot, ( Accessed 30.05.15) 30.05.15) Fig 76- Graffit/ urban them board, screenshot,(Accessed 30.05.15) Fig 77- Zebra crossing them board, screenshot, (Accessed 30.05.15) Fig 49- Stripe street style, pinterest, available at URL: Fig 78- Stripe styling shoot, self taken ( Accessed 11.05.15) https://www.pinterest.com/pin/88242473925197292/ (Accessed Fig 79- stripe styling shoot, self taken (Accessed 11.05.15) 30.05.15) Fig 80- Stripe styling shoot, self taken (Accessed 11.05.15) Fig 81- Stripe styling shoot, self taken (Accessed 11.05.15) FIg 50- stripe trousers, pinterest, available at URL: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/88242473925065498/ (Accessed Fig 82- Stripe styling shoot, self takem (Accessed 11.05.15) Fig 83- Stripe styling shoot, self taken (Accessed 11.05.15) 30.05.15) Fig 84- Stripe styling shoot, self takem (Accessed 11.05.15) Fig 85- Stripe styling shoot, self taken (Accessed 11.05.15) Fig 86- Stripe styling shoot, self takem (Accessed 11.05.15) Fig 44- Rihanna wearing stripes, got celeb, Available at URL: http://www.gotceleb.com/rihanna-roc-nation-2014-pre-grammybrunch-2014-01-26.html/rihanna-pictures-2014-pre-grammy-brunchroc-nation-2, (Accessed 29.05.15)

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