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11/19/13 12:39 PM
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atx man winter | contents
Photo by JoJo Marion.
On the Cover: How Austin Became a Foodie Town
Feature: Whiskey atxman.com 5
In the Know
atx man winter | contents
14 The Buzz Roundup 16 Five Must-Haves for Winter 18 Inspiring Personalities: Jared Dunten 19 Austin Entrepreneur: Joel Shuler 20 Rides for the Holidays 21 Young Men to Watch
60 Grooming: Men’s Fragrances 6 1 Style: Fall Fashion 66 Style: The Dapper Hat Guide
the good life
22 Trailer Treats: Love, Food Truck Style 24 Barbecue Competition 29 Guilty Pleasure 34 Guys’ Getways 36 T he Sacred Pilgrimage to Kumbh Mela
in the know 68 Health: Low Testosterone 70 Fitness: Kettlebell Workout 72 Family Man: Parenting Multiples 74 Pretty Woman: Anne Hudson 76 Sports Report: College Basketball Preview
78 Single Guy: Men’s Guide to Better Sex
80 Last Word from Roy Spence
38 Good Deeds: Dell Children’s Gala on the cover: Photo by JoJo Marion Location: Franklin Barbecue, 900 E. 11th St., 512.653.1187, franklinbarbecue.com
6 ATX MAN winter 2013
VOLume 3, issue 3
Co-Founder and Publisher
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Christopher Garvey associate Publisher
Cynthia Guajardo Editor-in-chief
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Kelly Keelan, Alexis Arendas Contributors
Rudy Arocha, Courtney Bell, Adrienne Breaux, Brett Buchanan, Leo B. Carter, Jill Case, Lindsey Cavanaugh, Ryann Collier, Jay Conlon, Greg Davis, Jacqui Devaney, Andy East, Vanessa Escobedo, Anthony French, Ginny Grimsley, Steve Habel, Tiffany Harelik, Ashley Hargrove, Judy Horton, Brian Jones, Caroline Khoury, Eric Leech, Adam Linehan, Lauren Lumsden, Claire McCormack, Matt McGinnis, JoJo Marion, Ryan Nail, Katie Paschall, Hope Peterson, Annie Ray, Tim Reilly, Elizabeth Shear, Roy Spence, Steve Uhler, Marshall Wright Interns
Courtney Bell, Paige Brady, Leo B. Carter, Jacqui Devaney, Lindsay Medina, Katie Paschall, Hope Peterson, Megan Russell ATX Man is a free quarterly publication of AW Media Inc. and is available at more than 850 locations throughout Austin and in Lakeway, Cedar Park, Round Rock and Pflugerville. All rights reserved. For submission requirements, visit awmediainc.com/ contribute. No part of the magazine may be reprinted or duplicated without permission. Visit us online at atxman.com. 512.328.2421 â€˘ 3921 Steck Ave., Suite A111, Austin, TX 78759
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wenty two years ago when I moved to Austin, there was really no discussion of food being a major attraction; it was pretty much Tex/Mex, traditional Mexican, chicken-fried steak and barbeque from tried-and-true mainstays: Matt’s El Rancho, the Salt Lick, Guero’s and Shady Grove, with some special-occasion restaurants: Green Pastures, the Driskill Grill, the Four Seasons, and literary/politico hangouts like Las Manitas, Cisco’s and La Zona Rosa thrown in for good measure. My, oh my, how things have changed. Everywhere I go, people talk about Austin’s booming food scene and our rock-star chefs. They want to know about Tyson Cole, David Bull, Jack Gilmore, Bryce Gilmore and Paul Qui. They want to know about the food-trailer phenomenon. They want to know why Austin was chosen as the site for the prestigious foodie event, the Austin Food & Wine Festival, a three-day epicurean bacchanal. They want to know how Austin has so many hot chefs winning James Beard Awards and just about every food accolade you can mention, including two restaurants out of 20 on this year’s Bon Appetit’s 20 Most Important Restaurants in America list. And everyone—and I do mean everyone—I meet wants to know what it is about Aaron Franklin’s barbequed brisket that makes it worth the three-hour wait. So we knew that we had to do a story on how Austin became a foodie town and what makes this such an incubator for creative cuisine and young chefs. We also knew that we had to find out firsthand what makes Aaron Franklin the master of the grill, and I am happy to report that, yes indeed, the brisket is worth the trouble and the wait. Steve Uhler takes us on the ultimate culinary journey, which will leave your mouth watering with a long list of must-experience restaurants. Conversely, Austin has long been known as a drinking destination, with the infamous Sixth Street being heralded far and wide. As downtown revitalized and attracted more restaurants, the bars became more upscale and the offerings more sophisticated. In this issue, Matt McGinnis takes a look at whiskeys, drinks for every man, with the focus on the burgeoning Texas industry that is giving Kentucky a run for its money. And we give you two suggestions for celebrating safely and in style. Looking forward to the holiday season and festive gatherings? We’ve got all the right looks, from casual to formal, as well as that most hip accessory: a hat. If you are looking for events, look to the Buzz, and for inspiration, to Jared Dunten and Greg Davis. How many of us can’t wait each year to receive the Neiman Marcus catalog and dream of those fantasy gifts we might never afford? This year, we took a trip down fantasy lane and discovered ultimate luxury gifts for all of the men on your list. Personally, I have my eye on the luxe stereo console, although I wouldn’t turn down a McLaren. Other great gifts for the guys on your list might include a guys’ getaway, fresh fragrances or coffee custom roasted right here in Austin. For me, each day I wake up in Austin is a gift. This is the best city with the most creative, supportive and giving people. There are so many happy holiday traditions to enjoy: the Zilker tree, John Aielli’s carols on Congress Avenue, the Armadillo Bazaar and a new tradition I am going to begin this year on the advice of Roy Spence. It is a gift that is free and if you’re lucky, will be returned: The gift of a heartfelt hug. So the next time I see you, prepare to receive a big holiday hug. Wishing you and yours all the best during the holiday season.
MEET OUR SMILE MAKEOVER WINNER!
Steve Powell is getting his smile back! After weeks of deliberation, viewing over 350 letters of nomination, our judges have chosen the winner of our Free Smile Makeover giveaway. Steve is a local musician whose health concerns over the years have left his dental care on the back burner. While working in construction, a serious injury on the jobsite led Steve through many years of severe pain, surgeries, and hundreds of doctors appointments. Then, a car accident worsened his dental health. The damage to his teeth has affected his self confidence, even his ability to perform on stage. Steve and our doctors have agreed on a treatment plan and we are ready to help Steve every step of the way!
Check our website and FaceBook page for more details about Steveâ€™s story and his treatment.
contributors Steve Uhler has some free advice for would-be foodie bloggers: Never interview a chef on an empty stomach. “I gained seven pounds while working on this article,” Uhler says. “Every time I sat down with another chef or food critic, the question always came up: ‘Have you tried such and such?’ or, ‘You’ve gotta try the bacon-and-maple syrup donuts at Gourdoughs!’ A few bites later and you can’t fasten your pants.” While not pretending to be a gourmand, Uhler does admit to an appetizing Achilles’’ heel: “The onion rings at Hut’s Hamburgers. They’re the best I’ve ever had—thick and sweet on the inside, crispy and hot on the outside. If you’ve got to die of something, there are worse ways to go.” Since 2005, Annie Ray has focused on bringing out the “real stuff” in everything she shoots. You could be a cupcake from the up-and-coming local bakery or a celebrity moonwalking up Madison Avenue. Her relationship with every subject will make 1,000 words say so much more. The December issue of Austin Woman and the winter issue of ATX Man are some of her favorites. “It was such a pleasure to be able to work with new Art Director Niki Jones and the wonderful staff at Hotel Ella.” You can find her work on Page 61.
Matt McGinnis is a food and beverage columnist for ATX Man and Austin Woman magazines, and a blogger for What Are You Drinking? He is passionate about the spirits, wine and beer industries, and is constantly learning by attending seminars and visiting dozens of distilleries like the ones written about in this issue. He is a certified sommelier in the Court of Master Sommeliers, has served as guest host of Sommelier Cinema at the Alamo Drafthouse and is a culinary and beverage judge for events. You can find his work on Page 40.
JoJo Marion photographs for many publications and clients in the Texas area. Doubling as a designer, Marion has partnered with a design and development firm providing mobile, web and branding services to companies and startups. When he’s not working, Marion is learning how to code, working on his jump shot or honing his Spanish skills. You can see his work for this month’s issue on Page 49. Being a fan of Franklin Barbecue, Marion was glad to see that behind the scenes, the team is incredibly welcoming and put as much care in to the way they treat people as they do their food.
atxman.com find more exclusive content at atxman.com
Low Sex Drive? Can’t Lose Weight?
Healthy Cooking with Chef Shawn Cirkiel, owner of Parkside, The Backspace and Olive & June. Tips from the pro on how to make healthy, gourmet grilling easy, from the Prevention Magazine R3 Summit. We’ve got the recipes and tips from Chef Cirkiel’s demos: Austin’s Own Hot Dog Toppings and Healthy Grilling.
Historic Austin Restaurants: Delve in to Austin’s cuisine culture with Melanie Haupt’s Historic Austin Restaurants. Exclusive Chef Interviews: Tyson Cole of Uchi and Bryce Gilmore of Barley Swine share their views on food and the life of a chef.
ATX Man Recommends
Best Sports Bars. Multitudes of televisions, pool tables and greasy grub are key ingredients to the best sports bars in town. Find the top places to watch your favorite games this season. 1-1-2014. Where to be and what to do on New Year’s Eve. New Year New You. Yoga for men.
A man’s sexual function and weight loss needs are different from a woman’s. They are usually tied to low testosterone or other hormonal imbalances. Symptoms of low testosterone include: • Low energy and sex drive • Weight gain • Erectile dysfunction • Decreased muscle mass and strength • Depressed mood and forgetfulness
Ultimate Guide to Valentine’s Day. Man-friendly suggestions.
Home for the Holidays
Blue Genie Art Bazaar. Blue Genie showcases Austin-based art stars with its new guest artist talk series.
Call our office today for a complimentary consultation.
Five Free Things to Do During the Holidays. Gifts break your budget? We’ve got all of the fun for free. More Ultimate Gift Ideas. From a $20,000 Garrison Bespoke bullet-proof suit to Steve McQueen’s $7.4 million Pioneer Moon Ranch, we’ve got over-the-top suggestions for everyone on your list.
Ruthie Harper MD Nutritional Medicine Associates
3901 Medical Parkway, Ste. 100, Austin, TX 78756 512-343-9355 ruthieharper.com
Music George Strait
Jan. 10, Frank Erwin Center Country icon George Strait rides in to Austin on what might be a very nostalgic last full-length tour, aptly named The Cowboy Rides Away. After 59 No. 1 songs and a Top 10 hit every year of his 30-year career, Strait has become synonymous with country music. He’s sold more than 65 million albums worldwide and, although he has no future plans to tour at this magnitude, he’s still as prolific as ever. Come see this legendary cowboy in concert at the Frank Erwin Center Jan. 10 before he rides away. He’ll be joined by rising star Jason Aldean, whose latest album, My Kinda Party has already claimed five No. 1 hit spots.
Feb. 8, 7 p.m. and 9:30 p.m., Bass Concert Hall Get ready for the crass, uncensored bluntness of chain-smoking, scotchguzzling comedian Ron “Tater Salad” White. This small-town Texas native from humble beginnings erupted to stardom like one of the oil gushers of his origins. In 2000, White rose from relative obscurity to national fame as a part of Comedy Central’s Blue Collar Comedy Tour that traveled to more than 90 U.S. cities. For more than a decade, he’s been playing to soldout audiences from coast to coast with his unmistakably Southern wit and rough-around-the-edges humor. White has two Grammy nominations, three of the highest rated one-hour specials and a New York Times bestseller under his belt. His CDs and DVDs have racked up more than $10 million in sales. Don’t expect him to pull any of his punches. Tickets run from $50 to $60 and are available at texasperformingarts.org or by phone at 512.477.6060.
14 ATX MAN winter 2013
12/14: The Wood Brothers, The Parish 12/14: KUTX Live: Kelly Willis & Bruce Robison’s 15th annual Holiday Shindig, The Paramount Theatre 12/26: TransSiberian Orchestra, Frank Erwin Center 1/11: Elizabeth McQueen’s solo EP release party with Nakia, Lamberts 1/14: Gungor, Emo’s 1/14–1/19: Broadway in Austin presents Green Day’s American Idiot, Bass Concert Hall 1/18: Rovshan Mamedkuliev, Austin Classical Guitar at GT Austin 1/26: Ray Price, The Paramount Theatre 1/30–2/2: Puccini’s Tosca, The Long Center for the Performing Arts 2/11: Gordon Lightfoot, ACL Live at The Moody Theater 2/14: The Official Blues Brothers Revue, One World Theatre 2/21: Dr. Dog, Stubb’s 2/26: The Chieftains, Riverbend Centre
Food and Drink Winter Preview
Chef Shawn Cirkiel Joins Forces with The Radisson Chef Shawn Cirkiel, owner of Austin favorites Parkside, the Backspace and Olive & June, is partnering with Forestar Group to open his fourth eatery in downtown’s recently renovated Radisson Hotel and Suites on Cesar Chavez Street. Set to open in January 2014, the new restaurant, which is taking over the former TGI Fridays space, will feature contemporary Southwestern cuisine. Expect mouthwatering tamales, enchiladas with homemade tortillas and steak, all from local farms and ranches. The designer of the new space, local talent Michael Hsu, has used his signature contemporary style to create a modern, warm space that showcases the view of Lady Bird Lake. Austin waits in anticipation for what should be the hottest restaurant to open in the new year.
East Side King (The Restaurant), opening December, 2310 S. Lamar Blvd. A-OK Chinese, opening December, 1509 S. Lamar Blvd. La V Restaurant and Wine Bar, opening winter 2014, 1501 E. Seventh St. Pleasant Storage Room, 208 W. Fourth St.
Just Opened Odd Duck (The Restaurant), 1219 S. Lamar Blvd. Container Bar, 90 Rainey St. Goodall’s Kitchen & Bar (inside Hotel Ella), 1900 Rio Grande St. Abel’s North Grill and Tap House, 4001 W. Parmer Lane
Just Closed Lucy’s Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant Cherry Street Spin Modern Thai
Strait photo by Vanessa Gavalya.
12/6: John Mayer, Frank Erwin Center
Austin Marathon and Half Marathon Feb. 16 Conley Sports Productions produces several of the highest quality events in Texas, including its premier event, the Austin Marathon and Half Marathon. Registration is open until Feb. 9, or until sold out, so there is plenty of time to sign up and train. No excuses! Start your year right with fun and fitness at the forefront while you rediscover the beauty Austin has to offer. The Austin Marathon is a Boston Marathon qualifier, provided they have not reached their cap after the conclusion of the Austin race. In addition to the marathon and half marathon, the Paramount Break-a-Leg 5K will also take place in conjunction, so if you’re looking for a little less intensity, the Break-a-Leg is for you. Check out youraustinmarathon.com for more information, training groups and how you can give back with Austin Gives Miles.
NEWSMAKERS Record Flooding Halloween week was devastating for many Austin residents, with flooding that claimed five lives in addition to damaging close to 700 homes, with more than 15 completely destroyed and 1,300 tons of debris that have been removed from affected areas. And there’s still more work to be done. Volunteer, donate and give back this season to help Austin get back on its feet. Austin Disaster Relief Network needs volunteers to help with demolition and cleanup of affected areas. You can sign up to volunteer online through adrntx.org, handsoncentraltexas.org or by calling 512.331.2600. You can also donate non-perishable food items at the tent at the corner of William Cannon Drive and Pleasant Valley Road, or donate via PayPal or check at adrntx.org. Having served more than 1,000 meals, 2,500 snacks and hundreds of drinks to first responders and those affected by the disastrous flooding in Central Texas, The Salvation Army is providing service via a laundry truck with three washers and dryers to homeowners who are working to clean up their flood-damaged homes. Volunteers and donations are needed, and 100 percent of disaster donations support The Salvation Army’s local response to Central Texas flooding. For more information, to volunteer or donate, visit salvationarmyaustin.org. The Dove Springs Recreation Center at 5801 Ainez Drive will be open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. for flood victims in need of clothing, food, water, furniture, household items and toiletries. The Oak Meadows Baptist Church at 6905 S. I-35 is accepting nonperishable food items, H-E-B and Walmart gift cards, furniture, household items, water, toiletries, baby items and toys.
12/6: Lights of Love 5K 12/7: Run Like the Wind 12/8: ARC Decker Challenge 12/14: HITS Multi-Sport 1/1: Commitment Day 5K 1/19: 3M Half Marathon 1/25: Austin Gorilla Run 1/26: The Biggest Loser Run Walk 2/1: Run or Dye 5K
OTHER Newsmakers Out of This World Aliens, Men in Black, Steven Finkelstein. They all may have something in common, but University of Texas at Austin astronomer Finkelstein recently discovered and measured the most distant known galaxy, announced in late October by UT. The galaxy is seen just as it was at a time only 700 million years after the Big Bang, helping Finkelstein and his team of researchers study how galaxies change with time, which in turn helps to understand how our own Milky Way came to be. The galaxy, known as z8_GND_5296 (pronounced zi-eitgee-en-dee-faiv-tu-nain-siks), is producing stars at a rate 150 times as fast as the Milky Way galaxy, and is only the beginning of what’s to come from Finkelstein’s intergalactic studies.
Bragging Rights Journalistic excellence could be found everywhere at the 2013 Online Journalism Awards ceremony in Atlanta. Austin’s very own Texas Tribune took home a General Excellence award from the ceremony, the second time it’s won this accolade from the Online News Association in the past four years. The Texas Tribune is a free online news source providing vital information to Austin, Texas and beyond, showcasing why the publication is award-worthy on a daily basis.
Communication is Key UT continues to improve and grow, as the Moody Foundation recently announced a $50 million commitment to the communications school, renaming the college
the Moody College of Communication. The gift results in the largest endowment for the study of communication at any public university in the nation, and among the largest ever awarded by the Moody Foundation.
Access Granted The Blanton Museum of Art at UT has been awarded a $504,000 grant by the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation to establish a curatorial fellowship program for a six-year period. As part of the grant, the Blanton will pilot an innovative and rigorous program for art history doctoral students, facilitating opportunities for object-based study and comprehensive understanding of museum operations. Don’t Miss Out! Through Jan. 12, 2014, the Blanton is exhibiting the first comprehensive career survey of one of Brazil’s most important contemporary artists, Waltercio Caldas.
Game Changer A Longhorn for life, Steve Patterson takes over as the new men’s athletic director for UT. Coming from Arizona State University, Patterson is a UT alumnus replacing DeLoss Dodds, who is retiring after 32 years of serving one of the biggest money-generating athletic programs in the country. Patterson has big shoes to fill but boasts an extensive resume that will set him up for success, working as the president of the Portland Trail Blazers from 2003 to 2007 and the Houston Aeros from 1993 to 1997.
atxman.com 1 5
Five Must-Haves for the Winter Season By Katie Paschall
The Baller’s Bag
The Salt Lick Cookbook: A Story of Land, Family, and Love The Salt Lick Cookbook by Scott Roberts and Jessica Dupuy is filled with delicious recipes and preparation techniques for the Salt Lick’s legendary barbecue meats and sides, as well as an abundance of alternative, traditional and contemporary, legendary Texas dishes. This lusciously illustrated cookbook tells the heartwarming family story behind one of Texas’ most beloved barbecue restaurants, started more than 130 years ago at Roberts’ great-grandparents’ house. This is not a book simply about barbecue; it’s about how barbecue came to be, a story of respect for the land, its history and the family that planted its roots and cultivated a welldeserved reputation. Order your copy at saltlickbbq.com/ categories/cookbook/.
16 ATX MAN winter 2013
Transport technology, accessories and sports equipment all in one bag with The Baller’s Bag. With streamlined design, seemingly unlimited space and technology-friendly aspects, this bag is a musthave, especially for the winter b-ballers out there. The state-of-the-art bag comes from the designer of the No. 1 Swiss backpack and boasts a one-of-a-kind mini tote carrier to fit almost any sports ball on the go, as well as the ability to fit any shoe size and a 17-inch laptop or iPad. From office (or travel) by day, to the gym, field or court by night, this bag is convenient and practical for anyone. Available at krossprecision.com/ballersbag.
The Reynolds Number
The Reynolds Number recently released their self-titled debut album, The Reynolds Number, for a new Texas label, Big Bend Records, on Sept. 17, kicking off the Texas Music Live tour. The Reynolds Number holds true to their sound with an energetic blend of well-crafted melody lines, groove-based rhythms, polished harmonies and ambient textures, as exhibited by leadoff tracks Awake and Follow You. These songs carry a blend of thematic elements throughout the nine tracks on the album. The album is digital and starts at $8.99, but the band encourages you to “Name your price.” Visit thereynoldsnumber.com to download the album.
BikeConsole Power Plus Rechargeable Mount
Bike2Power, a team of die-hard cycling enthusiasts dedicated to connecting the benefits of smartphone technology with bicycle riding, announces its newest bike accessory, the BikeConsole Power Plus Rechargeable Mount for Galaxy S4, Galaxy S3 and iPhone 4/4S. The Power Plus Mount provides a weatherproof and shock-protected allin-one solution that recharges a user’s smartphone while riding. This tough, engineered plastic case is guaranteed to protect from falls and is meant to shield against rain, snow, dust and dirt. Whether you’re a cyclist dedicated to monitoring your ride or a road-biking adventurist, the BikeConsole Power Plus Mount will keep you connected at all times. Available at bike2power.com.
Jemstep is an online service dedicated to helping people take action to lock in more money for their retirement. Offering step-bystep programs ensuring customers a secure retirement, Jemstep, a privately owned, independent money-management firm headquartered in Los Altos, Calif., is led by a team of experts with experience in finance, management and technology innovation and development. Founded in 2008, Jemstep tracks more than $2 billion in assets for private clients. Jemstep’s goal is to help create a safe and easy retirement by granting access to investment guidance for everyone. January is the ideal time for anyone to monitor their financial well-being with Jemstep. Visit jemstep.com for more information.
the buzz INSPIRING PERSONALITIES
Jared Dunten Meet Jared Dunten, copywriter at GSD&M by day and painter by night. Dunten’s work has inspired many, and his most recent work illustrating GSD&M chairman, CEO and co-founder Roy Spence’s new book, The Ten Essential Hugs of Life, promises to continue spreading Dunten’s contagious joy for life. By Andy East
In April 2000, while camping in the Chisos Mountains in Southwestern Texas, Jared Dunten dove into the Rio Grande River and woke up in the hospital in Lubbock, Texas, paralyzed from the neck down. In the hospital, Dunten stove off pneumonia and a decubitus ulcer, and overcame prognostications that he may never breathe or talk on his own again.
When thinking about who would be the perfect creative painter and illustrator to bring to life each one of the 10 essential hugs of life, only one person came to mind: Jared Dunten. He brought to life the soul and beauty of each hug with such passion and expression.
- Roy Spence
The Ten Essential Hugs of Life Brace yourself for a literary bear hug from chairman, CEO and co-founder of GSD&M, Roy Spence, as he imparts stories and lessons from his life, following his father’s advice: “Anyone worth meeting is worth hugging.” Complemented by Dunten’s illustrations, The Ten Essential Hugs of Life is sure to leave you filled with love, hope and compassion. “A couple of years ago, Roy sent me the book. He was still kicking it around and he asked me to illustrate it. I was thrilled,” Dunten says. “It takes on a lot of these really big themes. It can help people put things in to perspective. I don’t think that there can be too much goodwill and happiness in the world.” Photo by Randal Ford.
“For the first couple of years, I was in a pretty dark place,” Dunten recounts. “But I continued to work and I was blessed with wonderful family, friends and a great support group at GSD&M. “One of the things I always liked as a kid was drawing. I loved art. But it was after the accident that my mom encouraged me to [paint]. I designed an easel and my dad built it. I can roll underneath it and rotate it in different angles.” Fast forward 11 years, and Dunten has learned to paint with his mouth by using a brush that is long enough to reach the palette on his lap, and has also dabbled with placing the palette on his feet. Although he’s still experimenting with different styles, his work already runs the gamut, from landscapes and flowers to animals, featuring a tantalizing array of colors and vibrant textures. “There’s always a way to do it. There’s always a way around it. Life’s short. Focus on the good things and the bad stuff usually falls to the wayside,” Dunten says. “The accident and what I experienced in the hospital serves as a reminder for me to just focus on the great things.” Thirteen years after the accident, Dunten’s career as a copywriter is still thriving, and he has two sons with his wife of six years, Kimberly. “I love life,” Dunten continues. “I feel very blessed to have a second chance to be able to paint.” Visit jdunten.com for more information on Dunten and his paintings.
18 ATX MAN winter 2013
the buzz AUSTIN ENTREPRENEUR
Joel Shuler of Casa Brasil Coffees Blending his love of Brazil and his coffee-roasting chops, Shuler injects sabor e progresso (flavor and progress) in to Austinites’ morning joe. By Andy East
“I grew up playing soccer in Iowa and my coach was Brazilian,” says Joel Shuler, owner of Casa Brasil Coffees. “My coach sent me to Brazil to play when I was 14. At 18, I dropped out of college to go pro in Brazil but hurt my knee.” Shuler played defensive midfielder for Brazilian professional club Grêmio in the Southern city of Porto Alegre. “I came back too early [from the injury] and ended up hurting the other knee,” he says. “After returning [to the U.S.], I bounced around, graduated from college in Georgia and moved to Austin to go to law school at UT.” Originally lured to Austin by the School of Law and Brazilian studies programs offered at the University of Texas at Austin, Shuler worked with immigration lawyers who had Portuguese-speaking clients, and prepared aspiring law students for the LSAT exam. Although Shuler never pursued a law degree, in 2005, he founded Casa Brasil as a Brazilian cultural center that provided music lessons and Portuguese classes, and sold Brazilian products. However, as a coffee enthusiast, one day Shuler embarked on a quest to find the coffee he had once enjoyed in Brazil. It ended up changing the direction of his professional and personal life. “I went to a local roaster and asked for the best Brazilian coffee and they told me there was no such thing as good Brazilian coffee,” Shuler says.
Stymied in his attempt to find quality Brazilian coffee, Shuler decided to take matters in to his own hands and import it himself.
“Over the course of three years from 2006 to 2009, I spent six months in Brazil doing internships with co-ops and cuppers who everyone said were the best,” Shuler says. During this time, Shuler established relationships with growers he wanted to › Casa Brasil Coffees partner with and became certified by the Coffee Quality Institute as a Q-grader Founded in 2005, Casa Brasil Coffees is an Austin-based and obtained the Port of Santos Cupping coffee importer and roaster that specializes in premium and Classification certification. coffee from Brazilian growers. Coffee is roasted to order, and In 2009, he brought in his first conShuler oversees the production process from start to finish, tainer of coffee. One container contains ensuring its quality. approximately 320 60-kilogram bags of “We do a light roast, which takes its flavor more from the farm coffee. Four years later, Casa Brasil Cofand less from the roast,” Shuler says. “A good roast is like a fees now imports three to four containers good referee. With a good ref, you notice the game and not a year. By working directly with coffee the ref. He controls the game but not the outcome.” growers in Brazil, Shuler has cut out the In addition to selling coffee, Shuler teams up with the South middleman. He is actively involved in Austin Brewing Company for monthly installments of the Up every production phase, from growing to and Down Tour to give Austinites an insider peek at the art roasting, and loves every minute of it. of coffee production by looking at processing techniques, “Coffee is chemically and culturally tasting defects and much more. fascinating,” Shuler reflects. “There are so many layers to coffee. It’s so complex. For more information, visit casabrasilcoffees.com. You’re always learning more.”
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the buzz Celebrating Safely
Rides for the Holidays Safe and stylish driving for the holidays with R&R Limousine and Sober Monkeys. By Hope Petersen, Photos by Rudy Arocha
The holidays are rapidly approaching. Parties with co-workers and friends, Hanukkah, Christmas and New Year’s Eve celebrations will arrive in rapid succession. While indulging in food and drink this celebrationfilled month, please don’t forget the most important rule of the season: drive sober. Accidents and DUIs happen most commonly during the holidays, which is why it is vital to take extra precaution. Fortunately, there are plenty of options in Austin available to those looking to ride legally, safely and stylishly.
For those who wish to splurge to experience a comfortable and classy night out, R&R Limousine & Bus is the way to go. Whether you’re partying with friends or just looking to impress a date, R&R Limo can provide the vehicle for any special occasion. Satisfied user Rosita McCoy states, R & R Limo “has impeccable service. Our driver was a gem of a gentleman. He was so courteous to everyone!” R&R Limo provides transportation services, including airport shuttling, corporate events, church retreats, school outings and other special occasions. In addition, they offer a wide array of vehicles, from four-door passenger cars to limousine buses. Customers fill out an online form and reserve their desired date and time, and choose the vehicle they would like to rent. There is also a quote form available for customers looking to compare prices. For more information, visit rrlimobus.com or call 512.947.7433.
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It’s the end of a long, fun-filled night and you have work at 9 a.m. tomorrow. You know you need to get home safely, but what about your car? You’ll have no time to retrieve it before work! No worries. Sober Monkeys has you covered. The winner of Austin Woman’s small business grant award, Sober Monkeys is a professional designated-driver business servicing the Austin area, created by founder Angela Brinkley. In addition to providing a safe ride home, Sober Monkeys also drives your car home with you. Customer Melanie McLeroy says, “I adore Sober Monkeys. They are so happy and upbeat, and it’s awesome to be able to go downtown or to a party in my own car and get home safely for less money than taxis both ways!” Fees range between $30 and $110, depending on the distance. Potential customers register online and reserve their date and time. Visit sobermonkeys.com or call 512.808.9232 during business hours. Sober Monkeys service areas include Austin, Round Rock, Steiner Ranch, Cedar Park, Pflugerville, Del Valle, Driftwood, Lakeway and Belterra, Monday through Thursday from 8 p.m. to midnight, and Friday and Saturday from 8 p.m. to 3 a.m.
the buzz young men to watch
Twice as Nice
Ellis and Austin Winstanley of Tradelogic are the tastemakers behind The Tavern, Cain and Abel’s, Hill’s Café and El Arroyo. By Andy East, Photo by Rudy Arocha
“Our grandfather had his own business and our father had his own business. We grew up in [an entrepreneurial environment],” says Ellis Winstanley, CEO of Tradelogic Corporation. “Our father built army bases in Vietnam and later had a software company. He even took us overseas on business trips.” “In fact, we were 5 or 6 years old when we traveled overseas to Europe for our first business trip,” recounts Austin Winstanley, president and CTO of Tradelogic Corporation. “We had our little jackets and Mickey Mouse belts.” “When we were about 10, our dad asked if have expanded their business portfolio in to we wanted a new bedroom. We said yes and he construction, software and much more. said, ‘Well, you’re building it yourself,’ ” contin“We like old brands,” says Ellis. “Our youngest ues Ellis. “After school and football practice, we brand is Abel’s and it’s 33 years old. Our oldest is would work. He paid us and we kept our own The Tavern, which turns 80 [this month]. We like timesheets.” building things that are there for the long haul.” By the time they were 17 years old, they had When asked about working with their twin finished the bedroom, but growing up in such a brother, Ellis and Austin say they wouldn’t have business-oriented environment would catapult the it any other way. duo in to many dynamic business ventures. “We grew up together. Being twins, you’ve got Just a few years later, in 2001, the Winstanley brothers, then sophomores at the University of Tex- someone you can always trust,” says Austin. “Ellis focuses more on business processes and I work on as at Austin, bought Star Seeds Café on North I-35, technology and software systems. We complement which, at each other.” the time, “We like building things. Some of the Winstanwas losing leys’ new business venWe’re pretty opportunistIC.” $5,000 per tures include expanding month. the Cain and Abel’s brand with Abel’s on the Within a few months, the café was profitable, and Lake and the recently opened 25,000-square-foot the Winstanleys were just getting started. The Abel’s North. Next month, the Winstanleys will following year, the Winstanleys bought Cain and relaunch Artz Rib House on South Lamar as Abel’s, and brought it out of the red. During the next several years, they salvaged several ailing busi- Abel’s Rib House. “It’s always a new challenge. It’s fun to grow nesses, including Hills Café last year, and
the business,” says Austin. “The problems get bigger and the challenges get harder.” “We like building things. We’re pretty opportunistic,” adds Ellis. “We are always looking for opportunities to work on good projects with good people.”
Upcoming: South by Southwest Interactive 2014 At South By Southwest Interactive in 2013, the Winstanleys previewed a demo of Asset Management Software, a program designed to facilitate the organizational and administrative aspects of the graphic-arts profession. The Winstanleys will be back at South By Southwest Interactive in 2014 to showcase the full product.
atxman.com 2 1
Love, Food Truck Style Forget Elvis and Vegas. Keep Austin weird when you get married or renew your vows at Way South Philly. By Tiffany Harelik, Photos by Elizabeth Shear
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❱❱ After an economic downturn, Willy Pearce was laid off in February 2011. “My brother and his wife and I opened the truck two months later,” Pearce shares. “It was spontaneous. During South By Southwest that year, I talked to a lot of the truck owners to learn how they did it. I came across a trailer we could rent, and that was our springboard.” Way South Philly opened in April 2011 with one truck in the East Sixth and Waller lot. “Being from Philadelphia and trying the cheesesteaks out here, I didn’t find anything that was authentic enough to represent home,” Pearce says. So using the business as an homage to his past and a key to his future, Pearce found that cheesesteaks have paved the way for his food-truck success.
“I’ve lived up and down the East Coast,” Pearce shares, “and I was trying to get back to Nashville. The company I was with had a manager spot open in Austin, and being a former musician, I decided to give it a shot. I fell in love and a year later, I bought a house here. I wanted to do the Rocky theme because it goes hand in hand with Philadelphia. I wanted the menu and atmosphere to be a fun, interactive experience. We play Rocky music when people order sandwiches. “We started offering marriages in February of 2012 after I was ordained online,” Pearce says. “As a goof on Valentine’s Day, we decided to offer free marriages and vow renewals on Valentine’s Day. Virginia Wood heard about it and put an article in the Austin Chronicle and we started getting phone calls from Austin, Houston and
Dallas to do weddings. I decided to get all my employees ordained so we can do walk-up weddings at any time.” To date, Way South Philly staff has married four couples and performed 20 vow renewals. The wedding special for two cheesesteaks, two tots, two drinks and one ceremony costs $59.99. In the spirit of entertainment, Way South Philly also offers the Italian Stallion Challenge, the equivalent of six sandwiches containing two pounds of meat on sourdough bread smothered with Cheez Whiz, onions, mushrooms, peppers and tater tots. “We have had 16 attempts and only two complete it,” Pearce says. A respected member of the food-truck community in Austin, Pearce brings a positive perspective to the table. “I turn a negative in to a positive,” he says. “Instead of feeling sorry for myself during the recession, I turned it around and now I have employees and I’m contributing to society. I’m kind of like a Rocky story; it is a Rocky story.” Now Pearce has two trucks. The second is located at the Barton Springs Neighborhood Food Court, and is also his catering truck for special events.
❱❱ For more food truck recommendations, check out trailerfooddiaries.com, or follow along on twitter @trailerfood.
Willy’s Way South Philly BBQ Cheesesteak Courtesy of Way South Philly, as featured in Trailer Food Diaries Cookbook: Austin volume 3. This cheesesteak is Way South Philly’s take on Austin barbecue. This recipe makes four sandwiches. Ingredients: 1 medium yellow onion, sliced very thinly (almost shaved) in long strips 16 ounces of sirloin steak, thinly sliced 4 Philly rolls or your favorite sub roll Kraft Cheese Whiz 12 Kosher dill pickle chips, sliced 12 ounces of Willy’s BBQ Sauce Salt and pepper to taste Directions: Way South Philly calls their onions “the magic.” In order to get the magic right, peel the outer skin of the onion and discard. Next, cut the onion in half and then cut very thin strips, almost shaved. No caramelization necessary for this recipe, as true Texas barbecue uses raw onions.
Saute the thinly sliced sirloin steak over medium-low heat, stirring often to brown for three to six minutes. Do not drain the fat! (Fat equals flavor.) Add salt and pepper to taste. Next, get some real Philly rolls (or your favorite sub roll). Slice them down the center long-ways and toast for a second or two. Spread Kraft Cheese Whiz all over the inside top (crown) of the roll and smear Willy’s BBQ Sauce on the bottom (inside the heel of the roll). Then pile the steak inside, layer with two ounces of raw yellow onions. Place three oval pickle chips on top of the onions and garnish with one ounce of Willy’s BBQ Sauce by cross-hatching a design on top of pickles. Willy’s Way South Philly BBQ Sauce This recipe yields a little more than 2 cups. Pearce suggests tripling the recipe because your friends will want to take some home. Ingredients: 1 cup yellow mustard 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 cup light brown sugar
3/4 cup apple cider vinegar 1/4 cup water 2 tablespoons chili powder 1 teaspoon black coarse pepper 1 teaspoon white pepper 1/4 teaspoon cayenne 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon Austin Made Honey 2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon liquid smoke Directions: In large pot over medium-low heat, mix all ingredients except the honey, soy sauce, butter and liquid smoke. Simmer for 30 minutes, stirring continuously. Add the honey and remaining ingredients over low heat and stir for an additional 15 minutes. Put some sauce in a squirt bottle. You will need this to garnish Willy’s BBQ Philly Cheesesteak. As you eat, squeeze the sandwich gently. Lean forward so the end of the sandwich points away from you. Have napkins ready; if prepared correctly, it’s going to get messy. And they mean Texas messy!
Austin Chefs Take First at National Barbecue Competition The Carillon’s Josh Watkins and team trounce the competition with their unique brand of barbeque. By Leo B. Carter
❱❱ At this year’s Smoke@ICC competition during the eighth annual International Chefs Congress hosted on the banks of the Hudson in New York City, there was more at stake than just bragging rights: a $12,000 Southern Pride Smoker, an all-expenses-paid trip to Korea and the prestige that would surely garner the winning chefs some nationwide attention. The competition, which centered on barbecue—with an Asian twist—showcased several teams from Texas. Present were San Antonio’s Jason Dady of Two Bros Barbecue Market, Ronnie Killen from Killen’s Barbecue in Houston and Austin’s Josh Watkins and team from The Carillon. Before coming to this competition, barbecue wasn’t a big focus for Chef Watkins. Only since deciding to compete in Smoke@ICC have the chefs of The Carillon been serving barbeque in the restaurant and at other events. At the time, The Carillon team was new behind the smoker, but that didn’t seem to be much of a handicap for them. They took top spots in all three rounds of the competition (Regional American, New World, Asian), including first in the Asian Barbecue category, and most importantly, first overall with the grand-prize honor. Watkins, an Austin native, attended the California Culinary Academy and worked as executive chef
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of the Driskill Hotel before opening The Carillon in 2008. His cuisine focuses predominantly on the quality and freshness of ingredients, eschewing over-complicated dishes. In round one, The Carillon team did not shy away from Texas flavor with their smoked quail, fired corn, yucca crisps, artichoke purée and tomatillo. Watkins’ partner, Chef Plinio Sandalio, led the team to victory in round three with his Pork Butt Bibimbap, an American barbecue favorite served up in a traditional Korean way. Use of pecan shells in the smoking process “definitely brings out the Texas flair,” Watkins said in an interview with sponsor Southern Pride shortly after the announcement of their victory. “Why would I come to New York and do what everybody else does?” Good point. Hailing from Central Texas means that the world’s best barbecue traditions are simply a part of who they are and they have a certain standard to uphold. The Carillon has been showered with awards since 2010. Last year alone, the restaurant took first place in the Tops in Texas Cook-off, Star Chefs Rising Star Award, and first place at Austin Food & Wine’s Live Fire and Wine and Swine competitions. In a recent interview with ATX Man, Watkins tells us about his restaurant, located at 1900 University Ave., and his recent victory at Smoke@ICC. continued on Page 27
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continued from Page 24
ATX Man: Tell us a little about your restaurant and what you do there. Josh Watkins: The Carillon restaurant is a New-American cuisine establishment, which enables us to cook within what is America’s melting pot and tweak old American classics. New-American cuisine keeps things true. We want to keep the indigenous cuisine to whichever region true. If we’re going to do Asian, we’re going to do Asian. If we’re going to do French, we’re going to do French. [We] keep it true to its origin to the best of our ability but with our own interpretation. AM: Was it a big challenge going in to the Smoke@ICC competition? JW: Absolutely. We were the only people who didn’t have a barbecue restaurant. I was scared. We were going up against these people who were tried-and-true barbecue champions, and for us to come out on top was a special thing. AM: Your team placed in the top five in all three categories at the competition. To what do you attribute this consistent success? JW: Without question, flavor profiling. At the end of the day, what you’re looking at is sweet, sour, salty and umami. What that means is flavor balance. That was our whole approach at the competition and generally speaking at our restaurant. AM: What is your favorite ingredient to work with? JW: My answer is two-fold: citrus and really, really great olive oil. Or even better, them put together. AM: What are the advantages and disadvantages of your new renown as celebrity chef ? JW: I don’t know about new renown or celebrity chef. I appreciate the comment, but for me, it’s just about cooking food for a living. When you practice a craft, all you can do is continue to push the envelope.
❱❱ Brisket Tacos with Queso and Pickled Slaw Serves 4 Brisket: 2 pounds brisket 1 cup celery, roughly chopped 1 cup carrots, peeled and roughly chopped 2 cups yellow onion, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons garlic, diced 1 tablespoon shallots, diced 1/2 cup mushrooms, chopped 1/2 cup Roma tomatoes, chopped 1/4 cup tomato paste 2 cups red wine 2 cups beef stock 4 sprigs fresh thyme 1 bay leaf 1 cup gojuchang paste Queso: 1 yellow onion, roughly chopped 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 2 jalapeños, roughly chopped 4 Roma tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 bunch cilantro 2 cups Half & Half 1 pound American cheese
Slaw: 1/2 cup white cabbage, shredded 1/2 cup purple cabbage, shredded 1/4 cup carrots, shredded 1/4 cup yellow onions, finely julienned 1/2 cup rice vinegar 1/2 cup water 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1/2 tablespoon salt Directions: For the Brisket: Place celery, onions and carrots in a smoker and let smoke/cook for one hour. Liberally season brisket on all sides with 1/2 cup gojuchang, salt and pepper. In a large saute pan, sear brisket on all sides. Remove from pan and set aside. In the same pan, add smoked celery, onion and carrots. Add 1 tablespoon garlic, mushroom and Roma tomatoes. Let cook three minutes. Add tomato paste and the remaining gojuchang, and deglaze with wine. Add stock and bring to a boil.
Place brisket in a deep, oven-safe roasting pan. Cover with hot vegetable/stock mix and add thyme and bay leaf. Cover and place in 200-degree oven. Cook 18 to 24 hours or until tender. When ready to serve, remove from liquid then shred and season with salt and gojuchang to taste. For the Queso: Place all the vegetables in a medium-sized pot over medium heat. Saute until tender then add Half & Half and cheese. Cook over low heat until cheese is melted then add cilantro. Purée then season with salt to taste. For the Pickled Slaw: Place water, vinegar, salt and sugar in a medium sauce pot and bring to a boil. Combine cabbage, carrots and onions and pour liquid on top. Cover with plastic and let cool in an ice bath. Method: Heat up your preferred tortillas and top with brisket, queso and slaw.
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The Ultimate Luxury Gift Guide Baby, it’s cold outside, but these gifts are hot. Written by Jacqui Devaney, Compiled by Niki Jones
We’ve curated a list of gifts that are worthy of (and can probably only be afforded by) James Bond himself. We sought out the most coveted and opulent toys and gadgets that are sure to fill any grown man with a giddy sense of excitement. From the Grado PS1000 headphones that are a hybrid of wood and metal that deliver neutral tonality and rich bass, to the Beretta DT11 Sporting 12GA that combines luxury and sportsmanship for the serious shotgunning competitor, this is the ultimate “sugar-plum fairy dancing in your head” wish list. Just in case late Uncle Jim leaves you a cool couple million in his will or you hit the mega million lottery jackpot, you know what holiday gifts to look for. Although most of us aren’t touting a household full of 007 gadgets, who’s to say that one day that McLaren won’t be beaming in the garage? After all, you only live twice.
McLaren 12C, $239,400, available at Park Place McLaren Dallas, 5300 Lemmon Ave, Dallas, 866.844.1118, mclarendallas.parkplacetexas.com.
Hasselblad Lunar camera kit, $6,995, available at Precision Camera, 2438 W. Anderson Lane, 512.467.7676 precision-camera.com.
Grado PS1000 headphones, $1,695, available at Audio Systems, 1102 W. Koenig Lane, 512.451.5736, audiosystems.com.
Symbol Audio Modern Record Console, $18,000, available at symbolaudio.com.
30 â€‚ ATX MAN winter 2013
Beretta DT11 Sporting 12GA, $8,999, available at McBrideâ€™s Guns, 2915 San Gabriel St., 512.472.3532, mcbridesguns.com.
ValGrine Dandy putter, $38,750, available at valgrine.com
Bremont Codebreaker watch, $18,500, available at bremont.com.
Orvis shearling coat, $2,895, available at orvis.com. Saddleback Leather Co. waterbag, $820, available at saddlebackleather.com.
William Henry “Monarch” pocketknife, $5,750, available at Outrageous Gallery, 11401 Century Oaks Terrace, 512.614.2470, williamhenry.com.
Parrot AR.Drone Quadricopter Power Edition, $369.99, available at brookstone.com
Mission RS electric motorcycle, $56,499, available at mission-motorcycles.com.
32 ATX MAN winter 2013
What a Guy Wants Two guys’ getaways perfect for putting a smile on your guy’s face this holiday season. By Steve Habel
If Christmas isn’t about gifts, then why do so many people spend so much time trying to figure out just the right present to put under the tree for the men in our circles? If you really want to make a guy happy this holiday season, forget the ties, the shirts, the electronic equipment or the gift certificate to that wings place around the corner. Give the dude something he would never give himself: a trip with some buddies on that most holy of men’s holidays, Super Bowl weekend, that shouts out “You da man!” and “Have fun!” along with “Merry Christmas” or “Happy Hanukkah.” Remember, too, that when your man’s happy, he wants to make everyone around him happy. Here are two suggestions, one close by and another away from the family, to make a fella’s holidays the best ever.
Golf With All the Trimmings at the Omni Barton Creek It’s amazing to believe how many golfers in the Austin area have not played courses at the Omni Barton Creek, our area’s No. 1 spot for the grand game. Barton Creek is considered the best golf resort in Texas by Golf Digest and is included in the top five golf resorts you can play in Texas by Golfweek magazine. The resort has four great golf tracks: the Fazio Foothills and Fazio Canyons as designed by, you guessed it, famous golf course architect Tom Fazio; the Crenshaw Creekside, fashioned by Austin’s own Ben Crenshaw; and the Palmer Lakeside, routed above Lake Travis in Spicewood by the king himself, Arnold Palmer. The two Fazio-designed
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courses are ranked among the best in Texas. The folks at Barton Creek know how to treat people right, and they’ll go all out for your man and his buddies for a Super Bowl bash. A weekend holed up in the plush resort or in one of the resort’s three-bedroom villas with an itinerary that includes unlimited golf, great grub and a soothing spa treatment on the days running up to the game can set the stage for the big event itself. The resort will provide some themed cocktails and appetizers and will show the Super Bowl in Barton’s Lounge, which is also a great spot to play a game of pool or cards. Other activities available at the resort include tennis and hiking on the nature trail. As most men have discovered by now, getting a massage at a resort is no longer just for women. Barton Creek’s Three Springs Spa has some great men’s-focused treatments, such as the sports-specific muscle and joint massage, which addresses the muscle groups associated with specific sports movements (as well as the wrapping of presents and putting together toys and bicycles), and the men’s performance facial, which utilizes precise formulations of natural, organic and biodynamic botanicals all customized for men’s skin. For a weekend golf getaway without really getting away, Barton Creek can’t be beat.
Perfect present package Barton Creek offers a Guys Golf Getaway. Starting at $175 per person per night, it includes luxurious resort accommodations; unlimited golf on any of the resort’s Barton Creek championship courses; a welcome bucket of beer, chips and salsa; unlimited use of practice facilities; daily breakfast and a satisfying three-course steak dinner in the AAA Four Diamond-rated Hill Country Dining Room; and a $25 retail voucher valid at any of the resort’s retail shops.
Villa is Not Vanilla If a villa is more your man’s taste, Barton Creek’s such accommodations are 2,600 square feet and fully furnished with three bedrooms and three and a half baths. The villas include a large, comfortable living area complete with a media center and fireplace, a fully furnished kitchen with island, two master suites (one king bed in each) with its own garden bath and dual vanities, a third bedroom (with two queen beds) with an attached bath, a dining room adjacent to the living area, a separate utility room with a washer and dryer, and a covered deck with outdoor seating and a barbecue grill.
Going Over the Top In—Where Else?—Vegas Football fans can pay top dollar and about freeze to death to watch the Super Bowl live at New Jersey’s Met Life Stadium, or they can experience the game in true Las Vegas style. Not only can fans see all the action from multiple state-of-the-art HD televisions, they also can enjoy whiskey and beer, energetic game-day parties, live sports-book betting and even a soothing shave, all at Sin City’s MGM Resorts. With the clearest high-definition televisions in the country, fans can get in the game like never
Each of the four luxury boxes offers a bird’s-eye view from the second level of MGM Grand’s legendary Race & Sports Book. Football fanatics can host the ultimate Super Bowl bash in a 2,500-square-foot Executive Parlor Suite at Bellagio. Not only can guests enjoy surround-sound audio systems and stateof-the-art technology in the media room with six HDTV screens, they also can get in on the action with a game of billiards or grab a drink at the fully stocked wet bar. Man, even football-man, cannot live by gridiron action alone, and eating in Vegas is the third- or fourth-best thing a man can do in Sin City. The Pub at Monte Carlo serves up classic favorites such as juicy burgers, fresh chicken quesadillas and more. Fans can quench their thirst with cocktails like the Kentucky Highball or Cosmopolitan, or order a traditional beer and shot combo for the same price. Take 35 TV screens, throw in a selection of more than 300 beers, and that equals a sports fan’s paradise. If your football fan wants to kick off Super Bowl Sunday bright and early, The Sporting House Bar & Grill at New York-New York is the place to start the day. Fans simply need to wake up and head to The Sporting House to enjoy the pregame shows with two 16-foot, high-definition screens and 130 high-definition TVs, all while enjoying Bellagio Executive breakfast items such as hearty steak and Parlor Suite eggs or a scrumptious breakfast burrito.
before at the recently renovated Race & Sports Book at The Mirage. The innovative “4K” projection system uses cutting-edge technology capable of displaying a picture at more than four times the resolution of any other high-definition TV screen, so even the smallest details are crystal clear. Another option is watching the game from the Skyboxes at MGM Grand. These exclusive boxes are equipped with 42-inch plasma TVs and surround-sound audio systems and come with their very own beverage server, complimentary food and the latest video-game systems.
Shaving Points Whiskey, grooming and football? They go hand in hand at The Barber Shop at The Mirage with its new Whiskey Bar and Keg. Guests can choose between an ice-cold beer on tap and four unique types of whiskey while getting a clean shave and watching the game at this one-of-a-kind barbershop.
Monte Carlo Brew Pub
Guys in need of a break from the nonstop sports action won’t want to miss the Royal Shave at Bellagio. Take a step back from the excitement and enjoy a traditional shave, complete with a steamed hot towel, warm shaving cream, alum block and a botanicalbased mask. And don’t worry; this barbershop is equipped with an HDTV so guests won’t be behind when they snap back to reality and rejoin the game-time fun.
The Sacred Pilgrimage to Kumbh Mela Photographer Greg Davis embarks on a spiritual journey to Kumbh Mela. In a row of converted warehouses tucked away in South Austin, ATX Man met with National Geographic photographer Greg Davis in his studio to learn about his unexpected shift in to the world of photography and his new exhibition at the Museum of the Southwest. “I grew up in the small town of Livingston in East Texas,” Davis begins. “In high school, I was the newspaper photographer. But there was no reason to think I would be here at this point based on that.” Davis passed on the family business and went to Baylor University’s business school at the request of his father. For a decade, Davis worked a desk job at a variety of tech companies. And then, his life was flipped upside down. “I went through the valley of darkness to get here,” Davis says. Within the first five months of 2000, he lost four very close people in his life, including his father and a cousin, to illness and tragic accidents. “Then round two came: drinking, flipping my car three times, a gang attack, a broken heart, that sort of stuff. I quit my job, quit drinking, sold everything I owned, packed up and took off with a $400 point-and-shoot.” Nine months in to his intercontinental soulsearching expedition, Davis found himself
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walking along a road in rural Vietnam, where he encountered a Black Hmong blanket weaver. “It was a fleeting moment,” Davis says of the shot that started his life as a photographer. “I had no idea what I’d captured. There’s something in that image that shifted everything. I like to say that my life is now weaved with this woman’s. It changed the course of my life, as well as the many other people who are drawn to this image. I do know that I have a purpose now. The purpose is to form a connection and to remind us all that we are a part of something greater than ourselves.” As the winner of Best in Show at the outdoor festival of the Museum of the Southwest in Midland, Davis was invited to have a solo exhibition with the museum’s 2013 contemporary artists series entitled Myths and Legends. He decided, without hesitation, to travel to and shoot the largest religious pilgrimage in
human history, the Kumbh Mela, at the confluence of three great rivers in Northeastern India. Davis and an assistant spent 18 days in a tent on the banks of the river, only two of the 100 million pilgrims who traveled to this sacred place during the five-week period that occurs once every 12 years. “Their belief is that they make it [to Kumbh Mela] to drink the water, the nectar of immortality, and they break the cycle of reincarnation and their souls go to heaven.” The duo dealt with flooding, fluctuating
Photos courtesy of Greg Davis.
By Leo B. Carter
temperatures and exhaustion during their journey. Davis did not go to capture the vastness of this event, however. His mission was to tell the story of the individuals who travel far and sacrifice so much to be there. His was a pilgrimage to connect a vastly different world with his own. “For me, the story of Kumbh Mela is about the individual pilgrim that comes,” he says. His photos are immediate and incredibly intimate, seemingly isolated from the surrounding ocean of people. For a split second, no one else exists but the subject and viewer, and though they may be from different worlds, there is an obvious spark of recognition in the eyes, as if to say, “We’ve always known one another.” Looking at the photos, one can’t help but feel caught up in a deeply personal moment with a complete stranger. A tacit
exchange takes place. In a quintessential image, an old bearded man drinks from the river, the nectar of the gods, or “Amrita.” “I’d like people to see themselves reflected in the darks of his eyes,” Davis hopes. The photographer catches the abstracted reflection of himself in the old man’s irises, easily mistakable by a viewer for his or her own image reflected back. The viewer and subject are mirrors of one another. The old man’s stare is transfixing and unshakable, and will follow you across the room. He is in the act of transcending the earthly realm and invites you to take part. “There’s an energy that’s transferred and a collaborative process between me and these subjects. As the viewer, you continue that
collaboration. There’s a we in these images,” Davis explains. “That’s why I do this, the viewers. I really get off to people’s responses to these images. “These subjects’ purpose is to connect with something greater than themselves,” Davis feels, and it is this purpose that forms the unbreakable bond connecting him with his subjects and subsequently, the viewers in the gallery. Davis and each of the pilgrims arrived at Kumbh Mela for different reasons. Some enter the waters without hesitation or doubt to complete themselves spiritually, some come to satisfy a curiosity, yet others do so to walk in the footsteps of their predecessors. They are all, however, reaching outward—across time, distance, even beyond the bounds of the static image—for the same goal: to forge a connection.
Dell Children’s Gala Every patient has a story to share. By Hope Petersen
Every patient has a story. At least that is a strong belief shared between Laura and Tommy Craddick, the chairpersons of this year’s Dell Children’s Gala. “This year’s theme is a tribute to the individual patient,” Laura Craddick explains. “Each patient has a story and we want to share those stories.” The Craddicks understand the value of Dell Children’s services. Several years ago, a family friend was involved in a boating accident. Their 4-year-old son suffered serious head injuries and spent several months hospitalized at Dell Children’s. “That’s when we knew we had to get involved,” Laura explains. “Our passion comes from our friends’ tragedies.” Dell Children’s Center of Austin is one of only 17 Level 1 Pediatric Trauma Centers in the U.S. Servicing a 46-county area with more than 142,000 patient visits per year, Dell Children’s provides expert patient-centered attention at an award-winning LEED Platinum Facility. “It takes a community to build a hospital,” Laura explains. “We want people to get out there and get involved.” There are dozens of avenues available to those who want to help. Most recently, Laura helped to establish the Kendra Scott for Kids Collection, a jewelry collection with 100 percent of proceeds going to the hospital. Participants can also join a raffle or purchase a Miracle Book. Launched at the gala, the book
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will feature more than 300 pages of friends and supporters of the Dell Children’s Hospital. People can also volunteer their time and energy toward helping children in need. In 2011, more than 670 people volunteered at Dell Children’s. In 1997, there were only six. “That’s what we want to emphasize: community involvement,” Laura says. “Without the outstanding support of the Austin community, this hospital would not exist.” The gala is all about the patients. Of course, it’s also about the work of the Dell Children’s Hospital. “When our friends’ son was hurt, we were amazed by the support shown by the doctors, the staff, everybody at Dell Children’s,” she says. “They really work hard to help patients and make sure they each receive the specialized attention they need.”
Dell Children’s Gala 2014 Jan. 25, Austin Convention Center Grand Ballroom, 500 E. Cesar Chavez St. Members of the Dell Children’s Council and the Children’s Medical Center Foundation of Central Texas will host the Dell Children’s Gala, which will be co-chaired by Laura and Tommy Craddick. Proceeds from the gala will provide $1 million toward the hospital’s greatest areas of need. Funds raised this year will go toward building a third bed tower for the facility, which will allow even more children to receive around-the-clock therapy. The event will be a night of dancing, dining and stories. Tickets and sponsorships for the gala can be purchased online. Individual tickets to the gala are $500, and sponsorships begin at $2,500. Visit childrensaustin.org/cmcf/gala-2013 to purchase tickets or find out about more ways to get involved.
2 Everything You Ever Needed to Know ABOUT
Photo by Jay Conlon. Hand-lettering by Chelsea Pattillo.
THE DRINK FOR EVERY MAN.
by Matt McG
40 â€‚ ATX MAN winter 2013
hiskey’s caramel-colored glory is just as at home in the coarsely calloused mitt of the rancher as it is in the well-manicured grip of a technology tycoon. Its appeal spans not only socio-economic status, but also nationality and age. It is the drink of
the everyman for every man. Whiskey is an elixir that stirs the soul. Under its spell, we speak more eloquently, love more ferociously and fight more passionately. Its allure is as deeply rooted in its traditions as it is in its magical
What’s the Difference Between Whiskey, Whisky and Bourbon? Not all whiskey is bourbon, but all bourbon is whiskey. Bourbon is not whisky. Got it? Whether its spelled “whiskey” or “whisky,” we are talking about many types of alcoholic spirits with the commonality that they are made from fermented mash of grain, distilled at less than 190 proof, aged in oak barrels. The spelling boils down to geographic preference. The Scots, Canadians and Japanese are adamant about spelling it “whisky,” while the Americans and Irish refer to it as “whiskey.” Whisk(e)y from Ireland and Scotland is made with grains that have been dried with smoke, giving it that characteristic peatiness and smokiness. Canadian and American whiskeys can be categorized as bourbon, Tennessee, rye, corn, wheat and blended varieties. Unlike Scottish or Irish whisk(e)y, American whiskey is made using grain, so it typically has a rounder taste. So what is bourbon? Bourbon is a variety of whiskey made to meet exact regulations stipulating that it is made from fermented mash of grain including at least 51 percent corn. The rest of the bill of grains can include wheat for a more mellow flavor, rye for spice and bite, and malted barley for chocolate and fermented sugars. Bourbon must be distilled to no more than 160 proof and bottled at no less than 80 proof. It is unthinkable and illegal to add any colors, flavors or anything other than water to bourbon before it is bottled. Bourbon must be aged in brand new, charred oak barrels. The selection of the oak barrel, how it is toasted or charred and where it is stored has a huge impact on flavor. Storage of whiskey barrels in a rick house (a warehouse where whiskey barrels are stored) exposes it to temperature swings, which draws whiskey in and out of the wood, gives the whiskey its caramel color and adds oak, vanilla and spice flavors. Another big regulation for bourbon is that it must be distilled in the U.S. In fact, in 1964, the U.S. Congress recognized bourbon as a distinct American product and passed an Act of Congress that declared bourbon “America’s native spirit.” While the majority of bourbon is made by 13 big distillers in Kentucky, it can be made anywhere in the U.S. Some say there are more bourbon barrels than people in Kentucky. Whether it’s whisky or whiskey, rye or bourbon, it has been a beloved elixir for hundreds of years because of its enchanting ability to paint a moment of clarity across our minds like a streak of sunset blazing across a glass skyscraper before the fog rolls in and blurs it all in to obscurity.
character-enhancing powers. Whiskey’s broad appeal, its adherence to tradition and its ability to transform moods and moments make it the perfect gift for the holiday season and the perfect drink at your holiday parties.
Can’t-Miss American Whiskeys
Whether it’s made in Kentucky, Tennessee, California, New York or even Texas, American whiskey is in high demand. According to a report released this year by the market research firm Technomic, consumption in the U.S. of bourbon, rye, corn whiskey and Tennessee whiskey grew by 5.2 percent in 2012, on top of a 3.5 percent growth in 2011. Chances are you stock a bottle or two in your cabinet. Here are ATX Man’s recommendations for socking away additional provisions for the holidays and the long, cold winter ahead.
1. Balcones Texas Single Malt Whiskey 2. Black Maple Hill 14-year-old 3. E.H. Taylor, Jr. Barrel Proof 4. Elijah Craig 20 Year 5. High West, Son of Bourye 6. St. George Single Malt Whiskey
7. W.L. Weller 12 Year
8. Whistle Pig 10-Year Rye 9. Widow Jane Bourbon Whiskey 10. Willett Family Estate Bottled Rye
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While Kentucky is the best-known state for making American whiskey, there are also a growing number of whiskey distilleries in Texas. Since the first batches of Texas whiskey started hitting the shelves in 2009, several new distilleries have opened. There are now more than a dozen distilleries being built or already producing whiskey in the state.
Chip Tate is a mad scientist. His feverish work in the distillery and his amazing beard helps to enhance that persona. The founder and head distiller of Balcones Distillery, based in Waco, constantly checks the quality of the white dog straight from the still. He also tastes dozens of barrel samples in his lab every day to ensure his whisky is just right. (He spells it without the “e” because he makes a Scottish style). Tate doesn’t just fixate on the whisky itself, but he also obsesses about every aspect of how it is made. He demands the absolute best quality in his barrels because of their essential role in building the flavor. “Barrels add wood profile during aging as the whisky evaporates and adds oxidative effects as the barrel breathes in and out,” Tate says. “We use barrels made with slow growth, yard-aged wood, with extra-fine grain and a custom toast profile charred to my specifications.” Barrels matter so much that 42 ATX MAN winter 2013 42 ATX MAN winter 2013
alcohol with caramel and pear flavors. Tate is even drying his own Live Oak staves to have custom barrels made Balcones Texas Single Malt with Texas wood. Whisky is hard to find, but worth the That kind of attention to detail has hunt and worth the $80. It is made produced award-winning whiskys. In with 100 percent malt, fermented for late 2012, the Balcones Texas Single seven days and is double distilled. Malt won the prestigious Best in After aging in various sized oak Glass competition held at the Scotch barrels, it has rich flavors of caramel, Malt Whisky Society in London. It is brown sugar, nutmeg and vanilla the first American whisky to win the with ripe pear, a hint of citrus and prize and beat out storied whiskys roasted chestnuts. like Balvenie, Glenmorangie and MaThis is a fantastic whisky to enjoy callan to take home first prize. Addwhile burrowed in to a cozy lounge ing to its awards collection, the fifth chair. After a couple glasses of this, anniversary Texas Straight Bourbon I imagine myself sounding like Tom won the Sweepstakes Best in Show Waits speaking intently to a burro at the 2013 New York World Wine that nonchalantly acknowledges my & Spirits presence. CompetiBalcones Texas Single Balcones was tion. up to make Malt won the prestigious set Balcones about 6,000 cases was the first Best in Glass competition a year, but is retTexas-made rofitting the diswhisky on the market in 2009, and tillery, which is housed in a cramped it now makes seven styles of whisky: 1880s welding shop, to keep up with Rumble, Rumble Cask Reserve, Baby demand. Installing new stills in the Blue Corn Whisky, True Blue, True existing distillery will triple the caBlue 100 Proof, Texas Single Malt pacity. Balcones has also purchased and Bimstone, a smoked whisky. It an enormous former manufacturing has also produced special edition botfacility that will house a new distilltling like the fifth anniversary Texas ery, which Tate hopes to have online Straight Bourbon. by the beginning of 2015. “We make an original style Texas Did I mention that Tate obsesses whisky made with Hopi blue corn,” about every aspect of his whisky Tate says. “Our whiskys have a lot production? The mad scientist handof similarities to Scottish malt, but a made his copper stills right onsite taste all their own.” at the distillery. In fact, everything The Baby Blue and True Blue are readily available in stores, restaurants in the distillery is custom built to fit exactly in the tight space. and bars. Tate calls Baby Blue the Balcones whiskys are sold in 20 “Reposado of whisky” because it is a youthful whisky that is lighter in states, the U.K., Australia, Swecolor. It’s slightly lower in alcohol at den, Norway and Japan. Balcones 46 percent and is made to be drunk whiskys are available in Austin at straight. True Blue is hearty, spicy, liquor stores and bars like The Four vigorous and assertive at 61 percent Seasons, The Tigress Pub and Fino.
Photos by Matt McGinnis.
Balcones Distillery Introduces the World to Texas Single Malt
Treaty Oak Distilling Co. Red Handed Bourbon Whiskey Texans are awfully proud people. We like to
rye, with more than 30 percent. Barnes likes and several antique bourbons, has been interested in making whiskey since the start of the it both as a sipping whiskey and also thinks distillery. He has been making whiskey behind it’s well suited for cocktails like the Old the scenes for seven years, trying out different Fashioned. The oaky whiskey has plenty of flavor profiles, but hasn’t released any yet. sweetness with vanilla, caramel and toasted In preparation for making his whiskey, pecan flavors, accentuated by black pepper Barnes worked at a few distilleries in Kentucky and ginger. This whiskey should be enjoyed to learn bourbon distilling. The relationships while listening to old Dinosaur Jr. albums on with distillers and his experience in Kentucky vinyl in a dimly lit room. led to the decision to Its early introduction has go the NPD route. The name is a wink and been well received. Red Handed “We wanted to a nod to acknowledge has already won a gold medal know how to blend at the 2013 Great American whiskey before we that they’ve “stolen” Distillers Festival. It sells for put ours on the martheir whiskey. $34 a bottle at local shops like ket,” Barnes says. Spec’s and Twin Liquors, and it’s featured in a “It’s an education to work with other distillers’ whiskey to make it our own. We are grateful to cocktail at the W Hotel. the guys in Kentucky who welcomed us with Treaty Oak has enough stock of Red open arms to learn, distill and sell to us. There Handed for three years of allocated small is great camaraderie among those distillers.” seasonal releases of about 300 to 500 cases. So if it’s just purchased liquid, what makes That will be enough to get them through until this a Treaty Oak product? Barnes says it’s they release their own in-house-created whisthe selection of the blend and re-barreling key. Barnes intends to introduce a four-grain and aging in Texas heat that makes it pop. whiskey with an equal mixture of wheat, rye, Treaty Oak specified the bill of grains for corn and barley in about one year. It will be each batch of whiskey and then assembled aged four years to get the desired complexity. the exact blend desired. In addition, Barnes Treaty Oak is opening a tasting room where hand-selected the new American oak barrels visitors can sample Red Handed and its other with a three-level char. Treaty Oak ages the spirits in its North Austin distillery. Barnes whiskey in a warehouse where the temperais in the process of building a new distillery ture doesn’t exceed 95 degrees. in Southwest Austin off Highway 290 near Red Handed is a bold, spicy bourbon made Argus Cidery and Jester King Brewery. with 60 percent corn and a heavy hand on the
Photos by Matt McGinnis.
buy products made in our state. Flying in the face of that, one Austin distiller, Treaty Oak Distilling, is brazenly buying bourbon distilled in Indiana, Kentucky and Tennessee and selling it under its own label with a picture of Texas right on it. The gall! Red Handed Bourbon was released in November and is the first whiskey from Treaty Oak. The name is a wink and a nod to acknowledge that they’ve “stolen” their whiskey. The distillery buys the bourbon and then blends it and re-barrels it to age for 12 to 15 months onsite in Austin. It’s actually a common practice and producers who do so, like Jefferson’s, Bulleit and Willet, are known as NDPs (nondistiller producers) in the industry. Think about it: There are dozens of brands of Kentucky bourbon on the shelf, but only a handful of distilleries. “This is bourbon worth stealing,” says Daniel R. Barnes, owner and distiller of Treaty Oak Distilling. “We got lucky with buying really good bourbon to use for Red Handed. It was a rare opportunity for a distillery of our size to acquire the quantity and variety that we did. The oldest batches are from 2006 and the newest bourbon in our blend is from 2010. It’s fun to play with other people’s whiskeys. It tastes so different after we’ve blended and aged it.” Treaty Oak started the distillery making rum, then gin to showcase craft spirits, before moving in to whiskey. Barnes, an avid whiskey collector with more than 300 bottles of bourbon
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Whiskey Distilleries in Texas
Garrison Brothers Distillery
P Balcones Distillery, Waco, Texas, “We have no plans to sell outside Texas,” Garrison says. “As long as the Texans keep of Johnson City, the Garrison Brothers Distillery drinking, we’re in good shape.” is making bourbon in Texas wine country. ForThe Texas corn, heat and water give Garrimer ad man Dan Garrison fired up his whiskey son Brothers bourbon sweet flavors of caramel, distillery in Hye, Texas, to make its first batch in molasses and maple syrup, along with spices 2008. It’s one of the first whiskeys legally made like black tea, vanilla and nutmeg. It has a little in the state after prohibition. The flagship Garrison Brothers Texas Straight kick at 94 proof, but is silky smooth on the way down. This is a sipping whiskey Bourbon is made with 64 enjoyed with a lump or two of ice percent Texas-grown corn, The distillery is best while sitting on the back porch with giving it a sweet profile. a great day-trip your favorite dog. The remainder of the allGarrison Brothers bottles its bourorganic grains in the mash destination. bon twice a year in fall and spring, and bill is winter wheat grown vintage dates each batch. Each bottle on the ranch in Hye and barley from the Pacific is hand-numbered and hand-sealed in black Northwest. wax. The distillery filled about 1,300 barrels The distillery’s location makes a difference. this year. The fall 2013 vintage will be available The water used is filtered through the limeafter it has been aged about three years. stone beneath its ranch, much like the water In addition to its flagship bourbon, the used in Kentucky bourbon is filtered through company released the special edition Garrison limestone. The Texas heat speeds up the aging Brothers Cowboy Bourbon Whiskey in May process by accelerating oxidation and evaporathis year. This barrel-proof bourbon was uncut, tion for the whiskey in the barrel. It’s made unfiltered and bottled straight from the barrel, in Texas for Texans. weighing in at 136 proof. You can still find it in some bars, but the small batch of 600 small 375-millileter-sized bottles of Cowboy sold out quickly, even at the steep price of $169. That’s a lot of cash for a small bottle. Why so expensive? “In Kentucky, they lose three to four percent of the whiskey to evaporation,” Garrison explains. “We lose 12 to 13 percent annually. That’s a lot of ‘angel’s share.’ Our Cowboy Bourbon is expensive because after five years of aging, the barrel is only half full. A lot of the water is gone, leaving the whiskey more concentrated.” If you didn’t get your share, never fear. Garrison has already selected the barrels he will use in the 2015 bottling. He plans to produce 5,000 of the larger 750-millileter bottles, and make it a little less expensive. The distillery is a great day-trip destination. Garrison Brothers provides informative tours of the facilities, which conclude in the tasting room. Garrison Brothers has done a good job of getting bars and restaurants to carry its whiskey, so it’s readily available throughout the state. It retails for about $75 a bottle and you can find it at major steakhouses like Vince Young Steak House, bars like TenOak, and the W Austin sells it by the bottle.
44 ATX MAN winter 2013 44 ATX MAN winter 2013
makes award-winning blue-corn whiskey, malt whiskey and bourbon.
P Barkman Spirits, College Station, Texas, is in the works and plans on making Rio Brazos Whistlestop Texas Whiskey and bourbon.
Bone Spirits, Smithville, Texas, makes Fitch’s Goat Corn Whiskey “farm-to-bottle” whiskey.
Dallas Distilleries Inc., Garland, Texas, makes Herman Marshall bourbon, rye and single malt.
Double Wide Distillery, Red Rock, Texas, is in the planning stages to make a corn whiskey.
Firestone & Robertson Distilling Co., Fort Worth, Texas, makes a blended whiskey called TX Whiskey and plans to make a Texas straight bourbon whiskey.
Five Points Distilling, Forney, Texas, plans to make Lone Elm Wheat Whiskey.
P Garrison Brothers Distillery,
Hye, Texas, makes Garrison Brothers Bourbon and its special edition Cowboy barrel-proof bourbon.
Quentin D. Witherspoon Distillery, Lewisville, Texas, plans to make Cross Timbers Texas Malt Whiskey and Texas 1845 blended bourbon.
Ranger Creek Brewing and Distilling, San Antonio, Texas. In 2011, it made Texas Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Ranger Creek .36, a smallbarrel version and a malt whiskey.
P Rebecca Creek Distillery,
San Antonio, Texas, makes a malt whiskey, Rebecca Creek Fine Texas Whiskey.
P Yellow Rose Distilling,
Pinehurst, Texas, makes Outlaw Bourbon, a double-barrel bourbon, rye and blended whiskey.
P Texas Silver Star Whiskey,
Lewisville, Texas, makes Texas Silver Star Spirit Whiskey.
Photo by Matt McGinnis.
Tucked in to the rolling hills about 10 miles west
Photo by Matt McGinnis.
t is a good sign that a bar might be a good whiskey bar when you walk in and see a wide selection of whiskey labels that are out of the mainstream. The second important element is a bar staff that knows their stuff. That’s what you get at Drink.Well. on North Loop. Not only does the bar have more than 75 kinds of American whiskey, but Co-owner Jessica Sanders knows her corn from her rye. Sanders not only has studied all things wine, beer and spirits as a board member of the Austin chapter of the United States Bartenders Guild and as a sommelier, but she also recently attended a week-long camp about bourbon in Kentucky. She uses that knowledge for good, teaching whiskey classes and by droppin’ science behind the bar at Drink.Well. “Drink.Well. specializes in American craft spirits,” Sanders says. “Bourbon and American whiskey are the ultimate American craft sprits. Bourbon is a national treasure. Having a big whiskey selection is critical to our concept. It has become a life-long mission to learn about all of them.” Tasting a whiskey properly can also improve the enjoyment. Smell it twice by inhaling with your mouth and nose simultaneously with the glass away from your face. Smell as slowly as you possibly can. That way, the alcohol level is turned down and you can smell the fruit and the balance of the spirit. Don’t bury your nose in the glass like wine or it will burn your nose hairs off. Next, sip twice. The first sip acclimates your palate to get past the first burn of alcohol. The second sip is what counts. Now, think about the various flavors and separate the notion of heat from spice. Whiskey can have great spice flavors of black pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg that are completely different from the burn of alcohol. Mind you, that alcohol heat can be there, particularly in the higher alcohol and barrel-strength styles, which can be up to 110 proof. A big swig of that without warming up your mouth will be like getting kissed by a fist. Whiskey can be intimidating to some with its rough-and-tumble fire-water reputation. Sanders recommends beginners start with bourbon like Maker’s Mark, which has an approachable flavor. Its
creaminess, vanilla and sweetness make contradictory styles to see which you like it a suitable gateway whiskey. As people better. It might be difficult to know if you progress and want to discover the types prefer the Eagle Rare versus the Elijah of whiskey that they enjoy most, SandCraig 12 if you drink them a week apart. ers recommends people branch out from Tasting in flights also helps find preferwhiskeys they already ences among different styles like. Ask the bartender of whiskey. Do you prefer the The second sip about whiskeys that are sweetness of bourbon that in the same family as your is what counts. corn brings? Do you gravitate favorite. to spice rye or softer wheat “Don’t jump from Makwhiskey? Or are you a big fan of the bold er’s Mark to Bulleit,” Sanders advises. “It’s peatiness of Scotch? a high-rye bourbon that is spicier. Make Sipping whiskey on its own is definitely the process a gradual one. Drink different an enjoyable pastime. Purists may thumb spirits until you find the ones you don’t like their noses at mixing whiskey with anyand the ones you like best.” thing but a cube of ice or a dash of water, A great way to explore different whisbut there are many delicious classic and keys is to order a flight, which allows you signature cocktails worth exploring. to compare both complementary and Jessica sanders of Drink.Well.
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Where to Drink Whiskey in Austin
Ten Oak This whiskey bar has 220 to 250 whiskeys from throughout the world, including 127 bourbons and as many as 30 American whiskeys. They love to pour Texas whiskey like the Ranger Creek Ranger Creek .36 Texas Bourbon Whiskey and Garrison Brothers Cowboy Bourbon. They have rare and special whiskeys like the Buffalo Trace Experimental made with rice and Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve 15 Year.
Bar Congress This intimate lounge carries 60 to 70 American, Canadian, Irish, Scottish, Japanese and other regional whiskeys available, including an allocated Black Maple Hill 16 year and a rare bottle of A.H. Hirsch 16 Year Reserve. Bar Congress is known both for making solid classic cocktails like the Old Fashioned, Vieux Carre and Black Manhattan, and for signature drinks like The Roundabout.
Drink.Well. This North Loop neighborhood bar has more than 75 types of American whiskey like E.H. Taylor Small Batch Bottled in Bond and St. George Single Malt Whiskey. Drink.Well. offers flights of four whiskeys to let you taste the difference between a Whistle Pig Straight Rye 11 year and a Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch.
46 ATX MAN winter 2013
Vince Young Steakhouse
Vince Young Steakhouse While it may not have the largest list of whiskeys with more than 65 on hand, it has some of the most exclusive labels in town. Vince Young Steakhouse carries full sets of whiskeys, like all five Macallans, from 12 year to 30 year, and four bottlings of Pappy Van Winkle.
Bar manager Jason Stevens: “I’m a huge fan of the Suntory Hibiki 12 year with an extended preparation. I will start a guest with the Hibiki neat, having them take a few sips to get used to the flavor then add ice, a few sips more and then finally and slowly elongate with Topo Chico soda. It’s incredible how the flavors change and how different elements fade and become pronounced throughout.”
Jack Allen’s Kitchen Known for periodically hosting whiskey dinners, Jack Allen’s Kitchen carries 25 different whiskeys, including Texas whiskeys, Kentucky bourbon, Irish, Canadian and Rye. The Texas lineup includes Firestone & Robertson Distillery, Rebecca Creek Spirit Whiskey, Garrison Brothers and True Blue from Balcones. They have a hand-selected barrel of Eagle Rare 10 Year Kentucky Straight Bourbon bottle especially for them.
Péché The absinthe selection might draw you in and then the whiskey will catch your eye with a selection of about 100 bottles. Péché carries special whiskeys like a hand-selected single barrel Buffalo Trace bottled just for it and a Talisker 40-year-old Scotch.
Vince Young Steakhouse photo by Ladd Photography. Ten Oak photo by Jay Conlon. Péché photo by Clay Grier. Glasses and recipe photos by Matt McGinnis.
There are two terms to look for to find high-quality whiskey.
Bottled-in-Bond: The Bottled in Bond act of 1897 may well have been the first food regulation in the U.S., and was established by Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. to create a set of regulations that dictate the highest standards for whiskey. Bonded whiskey must be produced by one distiller during one distillation “season.” These whiskeys are federally regulated to be 100 proof and aged four years. There are fewer than 20 labels, like E.H. Taylor and Evan Williams BIB, carrying this designation. Barrel Proof: Whiskey that is bottled at the same
level of alcohol-by-volume (abv) as it is during aging in the barrel is called “barrel proof” or “cask strength.” Many whiskeys are diluted with water before bottling to bring the alcohol level down to about 40 percent abv to take the edge off. Barrelproof whiskeys typically weigh in at about 60 percent abv. These straight-strength whiskeys often come from barrels stored in the center of the rick house, where they aren’t subject to quite as great fluctuations in temperatures. The result is the barrels in the sweet spot of the rick house don't lose as much water from evaporation. Less “angel’s share” is a good thing.
Battle of New Orleans
The Right Whiskey Glassware The Standard-bearer. The Glencairn whisky glass bills itself as “The Official Whisky Glass,” and many an aficionado agrees that its size and shape make it the only glass for properly smelling and tasting whisky. The Contemporary Style-hound. The hand-blown, lead-free crystal Sempli Cupa rocks glass created by designer Daniele “Danne” Semeraro spins when you set it down, aerating your whiskey while looking stylish as hell. The Practical. Use an ordinary white wine glass for a handy way to get the most out of tasting whiskey straight. The Traditionalist. The rocks glass, aka the Old Fashioned glass, aka the lowball glass, is as at home in a whiskey bar as it is in your hand cuddled with a cigar.
The Atlantic Avenue
A classic cocktail recipe that’s perfect for Sazerac drinkers who like a little variety. • 1.5 ounce bourbon • 3 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters • 1 dash orange bitters • 1/4 teaspoon Herbsaint • 1/4 teaspoon Meletti Anisette
This variation on the classic Manhattan is homage to the Brooklyn cocktail, using Swedish Punsch, which is a popular Scandinavian liqueur that’s based with Batavia Arrack.
Stir all ingredients and strain into a chilled glass. Garnish with an expressed lemon peel.
Combine all ingredients with ice and stir until properly diluted and chilled. Strain into a cold cocktail coupe and express a lemon peel over the drink.
• 2 ounces rye whiskey • 1/2 ounce Swedish Punsch • 1/2 ounce Bonal
• 2 bar spoons Amontillado Sherry • 1 dash baked apple bitters • 1 dash orange bitters
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One for the
One for the
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How Austin Became a
FOODIE tOWN ~ By Steve Uhler ~ Photos by JoJo Marion ~
Barbecue worth the wait: Franklin Barbecue was named one of the top 20 restaurants in America by Bon AppĂŠtit atxman.com 4 9
HOW AUSTIN BECAME A FOODIE TOWN
Everybody eats. One man’s meat might be another
Photo by Adrienne Breaux.
man’s tofu, but when it comes to satisfying our deepest primal urge (well, maybe our second deepest primal urge), we’re all foodies. And Austin is a foodie’s paradise. Whether savoring an impossibly perfect slice of brisket at Franklin Barbecue, salivating over a plate of artfully prepared sushi at Uchi or downing a cholesterol-spiking bacon-and-maple-syrup doughnut at Gordough’s, the gastronomical options are endless. In the last decade, Austin has transformed from a footnote in 4-star restaurant guides to one of the trendiest destinations on the culinary map for adventurous fans of gourmet dining. The Austin foodie scene has exploded in a flurry of images, smells, tastes and tweets: on glossy magazine covers, wafting from street-corner food trailers, broadcast on TV travelogues and food shows, going viral on every form of social media, from Twitter to foodie-focused blog sites like Eater and Foodspotting. Suddenly, we’re everywhere. It wasn’t always so. For decades, Austin’s reputation as an epicurean destination rested on a limited and decidedly laid-back
Southwestern-cuisine motif offered in local restaurants and cafés best described as “down-home.” Aesthetic amenities consisted largely of swivel stools and concrete floors strewn with sawdust, and their longevity relied more on their Austin-centric ambiance than the quality of their dining fare. “For a long time, our food scene was defined by Tex-Mex, chicken-fried steak and burgers,” says Matthew Odam, restaurant and food critic for the Austin American-Statesman. So when did it all begin to change? When did Austin first begin its evolution from sleepy barbecue-and-burger burg to bustling foodie hub? “It started exploding about five or six years ago when we started getting national attention,” says Marshall Jones, executive director of the Austin Wine & Food Association. “It was kind of a natural progression with the creative class that we have. This is a very creative community, and that’s what cooking is. Cooking is not a science so much as it’s an art.” In Austin, food is an art form that goes back a long way.
Paul Q ui’s Cote de Boeuf 50 ATX MAN winter 2013
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In The Beginning... The first restaurant in Austin has been, not surprisingly, lost in the mists of time. One of the earliest documented fine-dining experiences was Kruge’s Restaurant, built in the 1870s on Congress Avenue between what are now Sixth and Seventh streets. The two-story wood building featured a prominent sign boasting “Fresh Fish and Oysters.” (How Kruge managed fresh oysters is a mystery; the nearest fresh oyster source was the Gulf Coast, 300 miles away.) If you could afford a ki l l Dr i Th e
dinner at Kruge’s in those days, you may have topped off the evening with dessert at Fulton’s Ice Cream Parlor at 608 Lavaca St. Price: 5 cents for a sundae with the works. Fast forward to 1933, when a struggling actor named Harry Akin decided there was more money to be made selling burgers than hustling after bit parts in Hollywood. Inspired by the open-all-night cafés in California, he headed back to Texas, opening his first restaurant in Austin, dubbing it the Night Hawk. Akin’s experiment (built around his signature Frisco Burger)
was an instant hit with the public, especially University of Texas students. By the time he died in 1976, Akin had built seven Night Hawks scattered throughout the city. (The enterprising Akin also served as mayor from 1967 to 1969. The sole remnant of Akin’s Austin empire is The Frisco on Burnet Road.) For years, the crown jewel of Austin eateries was the comparatively ritzy Driskill Grill at the Driskill Hotel, though its reputation wavered. The cuisine quality at the Driskill fluctuated wildly during the years under an ever-revolving staff of chefs and management. In 1999, a young Culinary Institute of America grad and Dallas transplant took the reins, transforming both the kitchen and Austin’s culinary profile forever. “I remember my old chef in Dallas questioning my decision to move to Austin,” recalls Chef David Bull, 14 years later. “At that time, there were only a few real restaurant choices.” He needn’t have worried. Bull’s innovative technique and devotion to culinary consistency earned the Driskill Grill the Austin American Statesman’s Number One Restaurant Award for three consecutive years, and in 2003 Bull was honored with Food & Wine’s prestigious Best New Chef award. With the growing popularity of TV’s Food Network and its assorted spin-offs, along with the pop-culture explosion in social media, the stage was set for Austin’s unlikely emergence as a legitimate force in world-class cuisine, but with a distinctively Austin vibe. When Bull competed in 2006 on Iron Chef America, the Americanized spin-off of the hugely popular Japanese cook-off competition, his visibility skyrocketed.
“It just made David Bull that much more notable when he went on Iron Chef,” Jones says. “But David Bull was already notable because the food at the Driskill was incredible. It was one of the David Bull first real good restaurants we ever had in Austin.” In 2010, Bull opened Congress, subsequently celebrated as one of the Best New Restaurants 2011 by both Esquire and Bon Appetit. Bull’s culinary style and obsessive attention to small details set a new bar in Austin. “First and foremost, I’m mainly concerned with the quality of ingredients, and then try to anticipate every aspect of the dining experience,” he says. “From the basics of temperature, lighting and chairs, to the mood, emotions and specific expectations, I try to put myself in the guests’ position and exceed their expectations.” David Bull was by no means the only chef making a name for himself in Austin. Other innovative chefs like Z’ Tejas’ Jack Gilmore, Masashino’s Takehiko Fuse, Parkside’s Shawn Cirkiel, La Condesa’s Rene Ortiz and others were all adding their unique spices to the city’s culinary gumbo. Suddenly, the media—particularly television—had a bottomless appetite for the now-trendy food center.
FOUR QUESTIONS FOR PAUL QUI Proprietor and chef, Qui, winner, James Beard Foundation Award, Best Chef Southwest 2012 ATX Man: What attracted you to Austin? Paul Qui: I was living in Houston, and Austin seemed like a practical choice for me to go to culinary school. I came here and kind of fell in love with the town and decided to come live here. I found the adult portion of my life living in Austin, and I found it through cooking and working in a restaurant. ATX Man: What do you like most and least about Austin? PQ: The people. The people in Austin are very
brave and courageous. They support new ideas and they like to try new things. What do I like least? Not a whole lot. Maybe some more late-night options, places to eat at. A lot of my dining time is done after midnight. ATX Man: Some of the initial reviews of your new restaurant, Qui, were kind of snarky. Did you take that personally? PQ: Whatever. I opened Qui to expectations that it was going to be different. There’s definitely a niche for every kind of food that
you could look for in Austin. But for me, it’s an opportunity to be a little bit different. It may not be different for the sake of being different, but to be different for the sake of exploration. ATX Man: Any advice for aspiring chefs? PQ: Follow what you feel you’re good at. Don’t doubt yourself, and continue on that path. Know what you’re passionate about and just go for it.
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Paul Q ui
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Award for Best Chef Southwest, (Cole in 2011, Qui in 2012). Meanwhile, farm-to-table advocate Bryce Gilmore, son of Z’ Tejas and Jack Allen’s Kitchen Chef and Southwest cooking icon Jack Gilmore, was attracting local buzz with his innovative mobile gourmet eatery, Odd Duck Farm to Trailer. He would go on to open the popular Barley Swine in 2010. The emergence of foodie rock stars like Cole, Qui and Gilmore—the Crosby, Stills & Nash of the new Austin food culture—ushered in a new gastronomical Golden Age of experimentation and innovation. “The chef is the new rock star,” Jones says. “That never used to be the case. You never cared who the chef was. You didn’t go to your favorite restaurant and ask who the chef was.” “It’s a new thing here,” Odam observes. “But chefs in other cities have been treated with that kind of respect and admiration for a long time. Obviously, a lot of that has to do with Top Chef. It adds a certain kind of charismatic character that is endearing to people. They want to know their chefs a little bit and where their food’s coming from. The best food is one that reflects the chef’s personality. It makes sense that we tie the personality of the chefs to restaurants because the food’s coming from them.” The near adulation of Austin’s new breed of cutting-edge chefs was not without its PR consequences. The diva-esque tantrums on display on shows like Hell’s Kitchen and Kitchen Nightmares with mercurial Chef Gordon Ramsay do local chefs no favors. “I think people assume that all chefs are yelling and screaming maniacs,” Bull says, “and I think they’d be surprised by how quietly and calmly our kitchen operates. We focus a lot of energy on creating a family-oriented environment.” “Sometimes people talk too much about image and less time talking about food,” Odam says. “At the end of the day, people have to eat the food. If someone’s heralded as a rock-star chef and then you eat the food and it’s not all that great, the food’s going to suffer.”
Gilmore photo by Mel Ferro Cole. Cole photo ny Brett Buchanan. Bull photo by Marshall Wright. Qui photo by Adrienne Breaux.
As Bull was busy garnering kudos in the industry, a new generation of breakthrough chefs began creating massive media buzz on shows like Top Chef and Iron Chef America. The new enfant-terribles of Austin’s rapidly evolving food culture were all over social media, writing cookbooks, being spotlighted on trendy food blogs and in YouTube videos, garnering Facebook likes and Twitter feeds. Tyson Cole, a former UT art student obsessed with Japanese culture and sushi, began making waves with his tasteful and visually distinctive modern take on Asian fare while working at local Japanese restaurant Musashino. In 2003, he became owner and executive chef at Uchi, an instant success, and in 2005, Cole was honored as one of the Top Ten Chefs in America by Food & Wine. Cole’s appearance on Iron Chef in 2008 earned him a vast national audience of admirers, many of them female; his cultivated-stubble look alone would have helped land him a role on any primetime soap opera. “That was the most unreal thing that ever happened to me, other than the birth of my first daughter,” Cole recalls. “I was just a sous chef in a tiny orange house in Austin, Texas. I didn’t think being named one of the Top Ten Chefs in America was even possible. That was quite momentous; that was the turning point for Uchi. From that point forward, our sales increased every month. It just skyrocketed from there.” Another new talent to emerge on the radar was Manila-born modernist chef Paul Qui, then also a chef at Uchi. Qui won the coveted title on Bravo’s Top Chef in 2012, becoming the local culinary equivalent of a Bob Schneider or pre-scandal Lance Armstrong. “The biggest change that happened after Top Chef was it made me able to travel and explore different foods, different cultures,” Qui says. “It definitely gave me more exposure than I normally would have had working in a restaurant.” Qui launched his own venture, appropriately christened Qui, in 2013. Both chefs won the prestigious James Beard
HOW AUSTIN BECAME A FOODIE TOWN
GOURMET MEALS ON WHEELS & FARM-TO-TABLE The food trailer, or food-truck, phenomenon is an essential ingredient in Austin’s recipe as a foodie mecca. The days of bleach-white “roach coaches”—the coffee, chips and cellophanewrapped sandwich sellers that invariably serviced constructionsite laborers and corporate parking lots—have morphed in to colorful, cutting-edge specialty caravans that compensate in culinary innovation what they lack in décor and elegance. According to City of Austin Health and Human Services, the number of registered food trailers spiked to more than 1,400 in 2012, up from 955 in 2008. Many of Austin’s premier chefs got their start in the field, or, more accurately, the parking lot: Before refining his technique at Uchi, Qui worked his magic at East Side King, which is still going strong. Bryce Gilmore built and launched his Odd Duck Farm to Trailer, attracting enough success to finance his brick-andmortar Barley Swine. Gourdough’s got its start offering decadently overthe-top doughnuts from an old trailer on South Lamar Boulevard; now there’s a bustling business at Gourdough’s Public House. Aaron Franklin, the newly crowned king of barbecue, fired up his reputation while working out of a one-man food trailer in 2009. (See Aaron Franklin: Smokin’ on Page 55.) Perhaps the most notable local food-trailer success is Torchy’s Tacos. Beginning in 2006 as a single shiny, silver food trailer emblazoned with a mischievous red devil, the hugely successful local chain now has 11 brick-and-mortar locations throughout the Austin area selling “damn good tacos!” Austin didn’t invent the food-trailer phenomena, but it has definitely become a gastronomical petri dish for innovative foodie choices, including some of the most outré entrees in the country. Where else can you find such exotic street fare as a fresh Maine lobster sandwich (Garbo’s Lobster Truck), or such decadent comfort foods as smokedpork mac-and-cheese sandwiches (The Grilled Cheese Truck) or hybrid cuisines like Mexican-Japanese (Oyama)? Another vital ingredient in Austin’s rise as a foodie culture is the farm-to-table movement. The back-to-basics ethos of the Austin hippie culture of the early 1970s led to the founding of Wheatsville Coop in 1976. The food center continues to promote and offer locally grown organic produce, along with more generic grocery staples. The original Whole
Foods opened Sept. 20, 1980, going on to become a global force in creating awareness of quality organic food and free trade, and the nonprofit Austin Sustainable Food Center helps foster resources for growing local, healthy food. “Austin loves sustainable,” Jones says. “We have really rallied around sustainable and organic foods where we can, and our chefs have really taken the farm-to-table to heart, which a lot of people didn’t know about five or six years ago. Look at Jack Gilmore, who started at Z’ Tejas. For, like, 18 years, he’s always been all about local and sustainable. People didn’t know that. They’d go and think it was really great Southwestern with a margarita. They didn’t realize the reason it tasted so good was that Jack was using locally sourced ingredients whenever he could.” Gilmore’s son, Bryce, continues his father’s farm-to-table practices at his Barley Swine restaurant (and its new sister, Odd Duck). “In California, everyone’s been doing that forever,” he says. “It’s accessible. It’s easy for them to work with farmers because there’s so much going on out there. When I moved back here in 2009, I really was amazed with how the farmers markets were growing and how many people were in to it. They really respected the farmers and wanted to know where their food was coming from. People were seeing the importance of it. “For me, I embrace that, and it will always be my philosophy to work with farmers I’m comfortable with and do everything responsibly. They care about what they’re doing and do it right. Opening a trailer, I knew it was possible to create a new menu every day from the things I could get at the markets. I did it. It can be done. I still do it every day.” Today, more Austin eateries are embracing the farm-to-table ethos. The homey Eastside Café on Manor Road goes a step further, utilizing fresh herbs and vegetables harvested from its own onsite organic garden. It’s farm-to-table within a perimeter of 50 feet.
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What does the future hold for Austin as a foodie mecca? Austin doesn’t really have a restaurant row or gourmet district per se, but that’s changing. “We’re getting there,” Jones observes. “Downtown specifically has 12 steakhouses within one mile of each other. South Lamar is exploding: Barley Swine, Lick Ice Cream, Odd Duck, Olivia. Burnet Road is kind of becoming the everyman’s place to eat: Gusto Italian Kitchen, the new Pinthouse Brewery, Lucy’s Fried Chicken, Noble Sandwiches, Blue Star [Cafeteria]. And the great thing is, most are locally owned.” “In a good way, you’re going to see more neighborhood restaurants,” Odam predicts. “I think we’ll see more diverse cuisines—Asian, South American, Northern European—coming here. More chefs from out of town coming here, more breakthrough curb restaurants finding funding to open other restaurants.” But with the good comes the bad, and with the sweet comes the bitter. “Unfortunately, for the next five years, what I see is a lot more corporate restaurants coming in,” Jones says. “I see a lot of people
taking advantage of the growth of the food scene in Austin. “There are two Mexican food chains that just opened here from Dallas. Austin doesn’t really prefer the corporate restaurants, but sadly, we’re starting to accept it. And I find that to be a shame. I think that’s going to be the big battle: local versus non-local.” Odam concurs, “I fear downtown becoming some kind of homogenous representation of downtowns like San Diego or Phoenix or whatever. My biggest fear is that downtown will become a conventioneer tourist trap where people go to these generic places that aren’t special. “I was reading some food blogger comparing Austin to New York and Boston. Those places are a lot more advanced than we are. But we’re not trying to be those places. If you’d mentioned Austin in the same breath as any of those towns 10 years ago, people would have thought there was something wrong with you. Austin’s food scene is very special. The people that live here have always had a sense of Austin exceptional-ism when it comes to quality of life and priorities. I think in some ways, we’re probably a little more proud of ourselves than we should be at times. But, then again, we’re Texans.”
“Austin’s food scene is very special.”
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Photo by Claire McCormack.
HOW AUSTIN BECAME A FOODIE TOWN
SMOKIN' If you want to make an omelet, you’ve got to break some eggs. If you want your fix of Franklin Barbecue, you’ve got to get in line. And wait. And wait. Georgette Kaplan has been waiting since about 11 a.m., when the line was already beginning to snake around the patio. Luckily, she’s here on a Tuesday, usually one of the less chaotic days of the week for the joint that houses what has been hailed as the Best BBQ in the USA by Bon Appetit. She’s read the hype and, more importantly, heard raves from friends. “I live out near Marble Falls,” Kaplan says, “and several friends told me I had to come here. I actually took the day off work. My boss thinks I’m at the dentist.” By noon, the line has stretched out to the street, with seasoned regulars bringing their own portable lounge chairs and iPads to help pass the time. Eventually, Kaplan makes it inside—a decidedly unglamorous square room housing about a half-dozen tables of varying size, peppered by plebeian chairs and various bottled condiments. Neon signs for Lone Star Beer and Fireman’s #4 Ale adorn the plain beige walls, along with a few framed magazine articles (not updated in two years) and a makeshift display table stacked with souvenir T-shirts. A steady stream of barbecuefriendly music plays from the tiny sound system: Marty Robbins, Johnny Cash, Willie Nelson. From the doorway, Kaplan glimpses Aaron Franklin himself at the counter, slicing deftly into a sumptuous-looking but rapidly disappearing brisket. This is Kaplan’s lucky day; she makes it to the counter at 12:49, just before the cardboard sign with the words “Sorry – Sold Out,” written in black Sharpie, is taped to the wall. Franklin serves his final customer of the day with the same garrulous energy with which he greeted his first. As he doffs his apron and heads for the back room, the room suddenly erupts in to spontaneous applause, punctuated with several enthusiastic shouts of “Bravo!” Flustered, Franklin comes back out to acknowledge the applause, not quite knowing how to pull off this spontaneous curtain call. An awkward bow, an embarrassed wave and he’s gone.
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Adam Kihlman and Henrik Svensson: "We're here from Stockholm, Sweden , on a road trip to find the best barbecue in the U.S. We saw Franklin 's on Anthony B ourdain . We were turned away yesterday, so today we got here at 8 a . m . and we were first in line. It was definitely worth it."
The ubiquitous line Frankin Barbecue
The “Tipsy Texan” at Franklin Barbecue
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“That has never happened before,” he says a few minutes later, genuinely nonplussed. “It kind of freaked me out a little bit. That was weird.” No weirder than his improbable evolution from transient part-time rock musician and freelance handyman to worldwide celebrity and acknowledged Yoda of barbecue. Aaron Franklin’s ascendency to gastronomic grace is a Horatio Alger story of boy meets grill come to life. Imagine Rick Moranis in his prime, pumped “You can up on adrenaline and caffeine, and you’ve got some idea of Franklin’s unassuming, ingratiatingly nerdy charm. Still boyish and lean as a stripped rib at 36, Franklin was raised in College Station, Texas, where, for a brief time, his parents owned and operated a local barbecue joint. The experience left an indelible appetite in his mouth and his heart; he made a silent vow to open his own place one day. “I got here to Austin in 1996,” he says. “Got out of high school and pretty much moved here immediately. Not to go to school or anything. My best friend from high school, who’s now the general manager here, we both moved here. We were playing music. Hard rock. I played the drums. Got a job. Had a lot of jobs.” He pauses, mentally ticking off random vocations hastily begun, quickly abandoned. “A lot of jobs,” he says. In his spare time, Franklin found himself getting back in to barbecue as a backyard hobby. With his then-girlfriend Stacy (now his wife and partner), he started acquiring a regional reputation as an amateur grill master with a golden touch, boundless energy and a proclivity for experimentation. “I started driving around all over the place on Saturdays just doing barbecue. We’re going to Taylor! We’re going to Lockhart!” Franklin’s voice takes on
the giddy cadence of a kid in the backseat on his way to Six Flags. “I really just got kind of nerdy with barbecue.” One of the jobs he landed was working as a cashier and assistant cook for John Mueller, son of iconic barbecue master Bobby Mueller, and local barbecue legend in his own right. The relationship was mutually rewarding, but often contentious and strained, and the two eventually fell apart. Franklin left the business, floundering for the next
never calculate exactly what’s going to happen.” few months, doing occasional handy work. But barbecue was in his blood. In 2009, at a loss as to his next move, Franklin took a chance, laying out $300 for a broken-down trailer, and deciding to go in to business for himself. In one of the more deja-vu aspects of his uncanny success, he inherited one of the cookers previously owned by his old boss John Mueller. As soon as Franklin parked his one-man barbecue trailer off the I-35 frontage road and opened his door for business on a chilly December eve, rapturous barbecue bloggers and food critics began heaping hosannas on Aaron Franklin bordering on epicurean erotica in the social media. “It really started to get weird right after we opened,” Franklin recalls. “The first blog review came out in January, and that was the first time we started to get lines.” A serendipitous write up in Food & Wine Magazine cinched his destiny. Barbecue-o-philes worldwide resolved to make the pilgrimage to Austin, to endure the communal wait in line, to savor the first burst of brisket on the tongue, to revel in the ribs. The success of Franklin’s business led to bigger and better opportunities. In 2011, Franklin got a deal on an old abandoned barbecue joint on East 11th Street, refurbishing it to his magical
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“I get all five cookers fired up by 3:30. Around 3:45, the last batch of ribs go on, watch the fires, come in, trim the turkeys, rub the turkeys, get the turkeys on at 5:30. Turkeys come off, sausage goes on, pork cuts go on after that, ribs are starting to come off. Wrap them, go put the briskets up front.” and exacting specs. Arriving for work early on the morning of his first official day of business at the new location, Franklin was astonished to find a group of fans camping out overnight, a harbinger of crowds to come. “Up until about a year ago, it was like, ‘Oh, it’s going to slow down.’ But the lines weren’t going away. I thought they would, but they haven’t. I’m shocked; the lines are longer than ever,” he says. Even with the addition of a small staff, Franklin continues to maintain a pace that would defeat a lesser being; he’s probably the only man in Texas who loses weight through his barbecue; 20-hour workdays are not rare. He still juggles myriad duties. Ask him about a typical day, and be ready for a barrage of detailed but passionate minutia. “You want the edited version? Pick a day of the week,” Franklin suggests. OK. Saturday. He takes a deep breath. “If I’m cooking, the alarm goes off at 1 a.m., I have an espresso, get here [at] 1:15, have another couple of espressos, make the rubs, start the fire, get the beef ribs on, start another fire in the next cooker, start trimming and rubbing down the pork ribs, get those on at 3 o’clock on the dot, start putting out briskets,” he says. Franklin pauses to inhale. A listener remarks it sounds like a near military operation of shock, awe and basting. “It is,” he says. “But there are so many variables. You can never calculate exactly
watch the fires, come in, trim the turkeys, rub the turkeys, get the turkeys on at 5:30. Turkeys come off, sausage goes on, pork cuts go on after that, ribs are starting to come off. Wrap them, go put the briskets up front.” It’s a dizzying display. And he hasn’t even opened for business yet. Despite the unremitting demands and glaring media attention, Franklin seems nonchalant about his celebrity. “I don’t pay any attention to it,” he says with such guileless candor that you believe him. “I’m just some dude who makes fires and sometimes gets recognized in public places. I cook stuff. It’s not a big deal. I don’t read anything about us and I don’t watch any shows that we’re on. I just don’t care. I just keep working. My No. 1 goal is to make this place consistently good every day.” This is the West though, and Franklin understands the mythology: Someday there’s going to be a new kid in town, a faster draw on the gun, a new poster boy for Texas barbecue. “I think about it all the time,” he confesses. “It’s gonna happen; there’s no way around it. It’s the same as playing music: No band’s going to be awesome forever. You’re going to get older and become less awesome than you previously were. I’m going to get old. I’m going to get tired someday. I won’t be upset when it happens.” He shrugs nonchalantly. Sic transit fame. Franklin’s impossibly hectic schedule will be going through some Barbecue-o-philes changes: He and wife Stacy are expecting his first child, a girl, worldwide resolved to make in November. the pilgrimage to Austin. “I’m hoping to get out of here for a few days,” he says, “but what’s going to happen. Every day is difmy wife doesn’t think that’s going to ferent. The wind, the weather, the moishappen.” ture content of the wood, the moisture At this juncture, they haven’t finally content in the meat. The meat changes: decided on a name yet. How much fat is in the brisket? Is it thin? Is “But this much I can tell you,” he it thick? Is it big or little? says. “Her last name is going to be “I get all five cookers fired up by 3:30. Franklin.” Around 3:45, the last batch of ribs go on, Aaron Franklin’s not about to reveal
the secrets to his otherworldly barbecue, but he does disclose his recipe for a good life. “The gratification of knowing that you worked as hard as you possibly could and you did everything as good as you possibly could have done it,” he says. He reflects on his own words for a moment. It’s a long way from his days as a rock drummer. “When you go to your house and look around and think, ‘Man, I bought this house!’ It didn’t just randomly happen. It happened with a lot of hard work,” he says. “You had to pay for that house somehow. You get in your car and it actually starts. Whatever it is you have, you earned it. That makes me feel good.”
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FOUR QUESTIONS FOR DAVID BULL Executive chef, Congress Restaurant, winner, Best New Chef 2003, Food & Wine Magazine ATX Man: What major changes, good and bad, have you observed in the Austin food scene in the last few years? David Bull: The good changes I’ve seen are the obvious increase in food choices and quality of both restaurants and chefs in the city. I remember my old chef in Dallas questioning my decision to move to Austin in 1999, and at that time, there were only a few real restaurant choices. Now you can eat anything you want and get a great experience in several genres seven days a week. It brings a healthy competition to all restaurants and also brings a higher quality skill set of cooks to the city. These are all great things for the city and are the main reasons for all the national attention Austin’s received. Secondly, I love the small, individual, chef-driven concepts. Austin is so incredibly supportive of its local chefs, farmers and beverage programs. I think that has changed significantly in the last few years. If a chef has an idea, there is a sense that Austin will support it, and that allows very detail-focused food concepts to become successful. AM: What makes the Austin food culture unique?
DB: Austin is supportive and cares deeply for its community. It also feels like a small town, no matter how big it gets. The food culture is a result of the diversity of our population, from the ramen to the burgers to the food trucks to the farms; they all have a sense of responsibility to the city’s culture and it creates a passionate food community. AM: A Barbara Walters-type question: If you were a flavor, what flavor would you be? And could you describe the taste? DB: I’ll go with the flavor of onions, a necessary part to the whole that can be sweet under the right circumstances, but also very pungent if needed. AM: Plans for the future? Will you ever retire? DB: We’re currently working on new projects in Austin and hope to be able to announce the details soon. Retire? Hmm. Not real sure about that term! I am blessed to love my job. I don’t see myself working the hours I currently work forever, but it’s hard to imagine not being in the kitchen.
Photo by Ryann Collier.
Ossetra Caviar · Brown Butter · Cauliflower Cream · Lucky Sorrel · Buttered Croutons at Congress
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The Ultimate Austin Foodie Grub Crawl Selected by Marshall Jones, executive director, Wine & Food Foundation of Texas
24 Diner. Best breakfast sandwich I’ve ever had. It’s a three fried-egg sandwich on buttered brioche with mayonnaise and pieces of bacon. I told them, “If my heart doesn’t explode within 12 minutes, I’m declaring this the greatest sandwich I’ve ever had in my whole life!” And the frittatas stand about 2 feet high. I still have no idea how they do that.
24 Diner photo by Vanessa Escobedo. Bar Congress photo by Judy Horton. Bonneville photo by Lindsey Cavanaugh.
Bonneville. This place is seriously overlooked. The pastries are made in-house and are to die for. They have created a solid menu with purposefully limited dishes from each of the great brunch categories: eggs benedict, hash and salmon, all with their own local twist, and you have the perfect brunch menu. Add mimosa bottle service and let the weekend melt away.
Jack Allen’s Kitchen. Jack should be best known for his ability to twist brunch and dinner in to one meal that Texas farmers used to call supper, that meal you eat after a long day on the farm at 5:30 p.m. before settling in with a cigar and whiskey on the porch to watch the sunset. It’s no wonder that Jack is a champion of farm-to-table, and no one does it better. My choice: Start with the house-made pimento cheese and then ease in a special, such as the open-face enchilada with a fried egg on top, paired with the classic margarita or a glass of McPherson viogner.
Tamale House East. If my ever-growing belly would let me eat here every day of the week, I could and would. My wicked little pleasure is two bean-and-cheese chalupas with jalapenos and a Diet Coke to go. To step it up a notch, add the tinga chicken. Of course, the tamales are damn fine and if you’re a pro, order them as an enchilada plate.
The Carillon. I call Plinio, the pastry chef at The Carillon, Plinio the crack dealer. I’ve never done crack, or any illicit drug for that matter, but I can only imagine the addiction they feel mirrors my addiction to Plinio’s pastry. If you ever, ever get a chance to try the sweet-potatoand-coffee beignets with salt-butter ice cream, try it! At your own risk.
Bar Congress. We eat late and we almost always end up at Bar Congress. We start with a perfectly crafted cocktail (gin for me, please) and then start in on the small plates. I am an unabashed supporter of Chef Bull and the whole staff at Bar Congress, and you will be too after your first evening with the best staff in Austin. Fried pickles, Congress burger and anything with tartare, hamachi or sea beans in the title!
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Carol of the Smells Stuff your stockings with these select colognes. Photo by Rudy Arocha
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Clockwise from top left: Terre d’Hermès Eau de toilette gift set, $110; CREED Aventus vaporisateur, $300; Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa Oud Eau de Cologne, $180; Eight & Bob EDT Spray, $195; Tom Ford Noir EDP and after shave balm gift set, $110; Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Universalis Forte, $275, available at Neiman Marcus, 3400 Palm Way, 512.719.1200, neimanmarcus.com.
W I NT E R
Party Time! Take your holiday look from casual to formal with Laura and Tommy Craddick at the historic Hotel Ella. Photos by Annie Ray. Text by Molly McManus. Styling by Ashley Hargrove, dtkaustin.com. Hair by April Downs, avantsalon.com. Makeup by Lauren Lumsden, raecosmetics.com. Shot on location at Hotel Ella, 1900 Rio Grande St., hotelella.com.
T O MM Y C R A D D I C K An entrepreneur at heart, Tommy Craddick primarily works in the oil and gas industry as a manufacturer, buyer and seller as well as a consultant and strategist. “It’s very complicated,” he laughs as he explains his busy and multi-faceted line of work. To add to his hectic schedule, Craddick is chairing the 2014 Dell Children’s Gala, a cause very near and dear to the Craddicks. The couple got involved three years ago when their son’s 4-year-old friend was in a boating accident and sustained head trauma. The following year, their daughter’s 4-year-old friend was diagnosed with Berkus Lymphoma. Thanks to Dell Children’s Hospital, the two young friends have made complete recoveries. Thanks to the Dell Children’s annual gala, the hospital, which is not quite 6 years old, has been able to add a third bed tower, and continues to advance with the best doctors, equipment and resources. The Craddicks have been involved for the past three years and have every intention to continue their philanthropic work. “Dell Children’s is not that old; they still don’t have certain resources that other hospitals have. I think it’s very important as a community to help them,” explains Craddick.
Armani Collezioni Indian red velvet sportcoat, $1095; Etro bright plaid sport shirt, $425, available at Neiman Marcus, 3400 Palm Way, 512.719.1200, neimanmarcus.com. atxman.com 6 1
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Previous page: BOSS by Hugo Boss gray suit, $895; David Donahue purple dress shirt, $135; David Donahue purple silk tie, $115, available at Nordstrom, 2901 Capital of Texas Hwy. S., 512.691.3500, nordstrom.com. Miss Wu marled jacquard cocktail dress, $495; Nina Fosetta gold pump, $88.95, available at Nordstrom, 2901 Capital of Texas Hwy. S., 512.691.3500, nordstrom.com. Bracelets by Benolds, 2900 W. Anderson Lane, 512.452.6491, benolds.com. Earrings and ring by Kendra Scott, 1400 S. Congress Ave., 512.354.4737, kendrascott.com. This page: Aidan Mattox long sleeve print ball gown, $440; Christian Louboutin black leather slingbacks, $845; Alexander McQueen knuckle-duster snakeskin box clutch, $2,295; Nest black agate spike necklace, $395, available at Neiman Marcus, 3400 Palm Way, 512.719.1200, neimanmarcus.com. Tuxedo, model’s own Limousine provided by Cynthia’s Manhattan Limousine, cynthiaslimo.com.
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On Him: Zegna dark blue check dress shirt, $345; Prada royal blue crocodile stamped penny driver, $550; AG dark wash denim, $185; Bugatchi blue and pink polka dot socks, $19.75, available at Neiman Marcus, 3400 Palm Way, 512.719.1200, neimanmarcus.com. On Her: Bailey 44 Legacy faux-leather-paneled ponte top, $187; Vince black leather skinny pants, $1,150; Vince black leather and cotton sweater, $445; Christian Louboutin black leather slingbacks, $845; Oscar De La Renta rose earrings, $245, available at Neiman Marcus, 3400 Palm Way, 512.719.1200, neimanmarcus.com.
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On Him: Billy Reid John T check shirt, $185; Billy Reid diamond stitch v-neck sweater, $245, available at Nordstrom, 2901 Capital of Texas Hwy. S., 512.691.3500, nordstrom.com. On Her: Topshop embellished floral knit sweater, $92, available at Nordstrom, 2901 Capital of Texas Hwy S., 512.691.3500, nordstrom.com. Mossimo gray skinny jeans, $22.99, available at Target, target.com.
Hotel Ella In early October, the highly anticipated opening of Austin’s Hotel Ella arrived, following a multi-million dollar restoration of the historic city landmark known as the Goodall Wooten Mansion. Built in the early 1900s by Austinites Dr. Goodall and Ella Wooten, the couple’s contributions to Austin and original antique pieces can be found throughout the hotel. Dr. Wooten was a collector of sculptural and artistic pieces, as well as the founder of the University of Texas at Austin, while his wife, Ella, served as one of Austin’s most respected philanthropists. She was one of the first women to attend UT, and became the first woman to serve on the board of directors for the Chamber of Commerce. Completed by Michael Hsu Office of Architecture and designed by Donna Stockton-Hicks, the redesigned hotel features a cabana-lined lap pool with bar access, a wraparound veranda, more than 10 different event spaces, 48 uniquely elegant guestrooms and 10 extraordinary suites, embodying the spirit of modern, sophisticated design, never losing sight of well-preserved grand-mansion elements. Hotel Ella additionally opened Goodall’s Kitchen & Bar, serving seasonal, local, familiar Southern dishes with a gourmet twist from chef and James Beard Foundation member Scott Mechura. For more information, visit hotelella.com or call 512.496.1800. atxman.com 6 6 55 atxman.com
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The Dapper Hat Guide Avoid a brain freeze with these quintessential winter hats. Written and styled by Jacqui Devaney Photo by Rudy Arocha
It’s best to avoid falling in to the habit of overdoing sweatpants and dull, lifeless neutral colors in your winter wardrobe. And the easiest way to update a look is by using your head. The long-brimmed fedoras with interchangeable, flashy feathers can mesh with a pressed wool suit during the day and juxtapose a leather biker jacket and jeans at night. The colors, from Bordeaux to 50 shades of gray, add warmth to the icy evening. Bruno Mars gave a nod to the short-brimmed fedora (Rag & Bone, back right) and provides examples for how to integrate the headwear in to everyday wear by pairing it with patterned T-shirts, a slim tux or cozy flannel button-ups. Feeling retrospective? Toss on the jet-black bowler, or derby hat. Wearing it with a tuxedo might feel a little too costume-y for the faint at heart, but it pairs with button-ups and slim slacks. Even if you don’t work on Madison Avenue, you can still transmit that dashing-as-Don-Draper ambience at the drop of a hat.
Tino wool fedora by Bailey, $78, available at Hatbox: A Modern Haberdashery, 115 E. Sixth St., 512.476.1203, hatbox.com. Harker wool felt bowler by Bailey, $108, available at Hatbox: A Modern Haberdashery, 115 E. Sixth St., 512.476.1203, hatbox.com. Joey the Wolf wool fedora, $140, available at Goorin Bros. Hat Shop, 1323 S. Congress Ave., 512.326.4287, goorin.com.
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Inwood B fur felt fedora by Stetson, $258, available at Hatbox: A Modern Haberdashery, 115 E. Sixth St., 512.476.1203, hatbox.com.
Rag and Bone wool fedora, $175, available at By George, 524 N. Lamar Blvd., 512.472.5951, bygeorgeaustin.com.
Dean the Butcher wool fedora, $125, available at Goorin Bros., 1323 S. Congress Ave., 512.326.4287, goorin.com.
Dishes. Diapers. Pay the babysitter. Deposit check. Deposit checks from the rocking chair. Pay a friend from the couch. Have a chat with a banker in Westlake or Round Rock, or anywhere in Austin you happen to be. And, of course, get cash at your convenience at any one of our 114 Austin Area ATMs. On your phone, online, or on the go — it’s all about getting your banking done. Learn more at GetBankingDone.com or stop by your nearby Wells Fargo banking location.
GetBankingDone.com Printed materials expire on December 31, 2013. © 2013 Wells Fargo Bank, N.A. All rights reserved. Member FDIC. (1047247_09394)
In the Know
Is it Low T? Beyond the commercials. Understanding low testosterone. By Jill Case
❱❱ If you watch TV, you have probably seen one of the commercials for gels that treat low “T.” The commercials, which list symptoms and side effects, may have left you curious about this condition. ATX Man talked to Dr. Kerem Ozer, an Austinarea endocrinologist, to help us learn more about this condition and the treatment available for it. Endocrinologists like Ozer see patients with low T symptoms or problems and provide evaluation, treatment and monitoring of the condition. ATX MAN: Men are being exposed to so much advertising by the pharmaceutical companies about low testosterone. Due to this, have you seen an increase in the number of men asking about this problem? Dr. Kerem Ozer: Absolutely. I think there has definitely been a shift. In the past, treatment for low testosterone was only done with injections. Since the gels have come on the market, and they are a much more practical way of taking testosterone supplements, I think awareness has increased. Currently, about 5 million men in the U.S. have low testosterone, and many more may not be aware that they have it. AM: Maybe that is a good thing since those symptoms are fairly broad—the fatigue, the weakness— and it could indicate other problems. Do you think this new awareness is a good thing? KO: I definitely think so. A lot of the symptoms— fatigue, weakness, depression, erectile dysfunction—may be signs of other conditions, or they may be signs of low testosterone. In either case, I think it’s a good thing that people are much more aware of these symptoms and are coming in to have them checked out. AM: In the past, these symptoms have been attributed to other causes such as depression or high blood pressure, but now, research has shown that these symptoms could be caused by low testosterone levels. When a patient comes to you or
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another physician with these symptoms, do you do the blood test for low testosterone first, or do you rule out the other possible causes first? KO: Yes, we do check for other potential causes of low energy like thyroid function or adrenal gland function, but even if someone has low T, he needs to undergo a detailed workup to figure out why they have low T. Low T may be due to a pituitary gland tumor, diabetes and other potentially treatable causes. AM: I was surprised to learn that men can have hot flashes. Is that a symptom of low testosterone, or is it caused by a thyroid problem? KO: Hot flashes, like fatigue and weakness, are pretty non-specific symptoms. In both men and women, hot flashes tend to happen due to changes in the thermostat in the brain (the hypothalamus). The hypothalamus does get influenced by sex hormones in both men and women, so it may be a sign of low testosterone. Having said that, changes in the adrenal gland or changes in the thyroid may also cause male hot flashes. AM: If you do find that a patient has low testosterone levels, do you automatically test them for osteoporosis symptoms? KO: Almost always. One of the main risk factors for osteoporosis in men is low testosterone, so it’s always a good idea to at least get a baseline bonedensity test to see where people are, especially in people who might have additional risk factors. These risk factors include vitamin D deficiency, being sedentary or people with changes in their calcium levels. AM: Let’s talk about the types of treatment that are available to treat low T. KO: There are three types of treatment. There are the gels, which are applied topically. There are also injections, which go into a muscle in the shoulder or the hip area. The injections are usually given every other week. The pellets are pretty
new, and right now not many people offer them. They are inserted under the skin. It’s a minor procedure, and they usually stay under the skin for up to six months, delivering a slow release of testosterone that maintains healthy testosterone levels for the full six months. AM: What are the pros and cons of treatments for low T? KO: The short-term advantages include improvement in energy levels and improvement in muscle strength. Many people who experience depression as a result of low T levels will notice an improvement in mood as well. As far as sexual function goes, many men will see an improvement in their sex drive, as well as in their erections. Many men may also notice an improvement in muscle mass with treatment, especially if they begin to exercise. When men start taking the testosterone, their energy levels improve and they are more motivated to exercise, helping them to build muscle mass. In the long run, keeping testosterone levels in the normal range helps maintain and/or improve bone density as well. AM: What are the cons to low-testosterone treatments? KO: The main cons are the things we always keep a close eye on during testosterone treatment. The first one is testosterone’s effect on the prostate.
Even the natural testosterone the body makes may cause, over time, prostate enlargement, so with testosterone treatment, there is potentially a small increase in the risk of prostate enlargement, especially in people who have had prostate cancer or who have a family history of prostate cancer. It’s important to keep a close eye on the prostate. When we start testosterone treatment, we always recommend that people have their prostate exam done once a year and have their PSA (prostate specific antigen) checked once a year. The other potential issue with testosterone that we monitor, especially in smokers and in people who have sleep apnea, is the red blood cell count. There can be an increase in the number of red blood cells that carry oxygen in the blood and that can cause a thickening of the blood and increase the risk of clot formation. We always keep an eye on this treatable condition. If the condition occurs, the patient donates a unit of blood to bring the cell count back to the normal range. Other less common side effects are increased acne, mood swings and very rarely, it can cause inflammation in the liver, but those are all things we keep an eye on with regular blood tests.
AM: Does the low T treatment help men with erectile dysfunction, or could there be other issues causing the ED even after the patient takes the low T treatment? KO: In a lot of people, low T can be present with ED, and in a lot of people, once testosterone levels go back in to the normal, healthy range, ED may go away. ED has several different causes and some people, even after we bring the testosterone levels back in to a normal range, may still need to use additional medications like Cialis or Viagra to help with the erection. Sometimes, even those don’t help, and then we look at additional factors like blood circulation or other conditions that can lead to ED. AM: Are there any conditions that people have that prevent them from using low T medication? KO: For most conditions, since this is a natural hormone that the body already makes, it doesn’t really interfere with other medications, so people with diabetes or heart problems can definitely use testosterone, again, being careful to monitor all the side effects. One main concern is prostate cancer. For most people who have or have had prostate cancer, treatment is not recommended.
We look at the risk/ benefit ratio very carefully if we do think about treatment. AM: Younger men can also have low T, right? KO: Definitely. Both due to the fact that other conditions can lead to low testosterone and also just by virtue of the fact that low testosterone can happen at any age. People with low T symptoms should definitely consult a doctor, no matter what their age. AM: What advice do you have about who should be tested and when? KO: I think any man of any age who has symptoms like fatigue, weakness, depression, loss of libido or erectile dysfunction should be checked for low testosterone. For more information, visit the Hormone Health Network: hormone.org/diseases-and-conditions/ mens-health/hypogonadism. Dr. Kerem Ozer is board certified in internal medicine and endocrinology, and is certified by the ISCD in osteoporosis testing. He practices at Texas Diabetes and Endocrinology (texasdiabetes.com). Ozer did his training in Houston with nationally recognized testosterone experts.
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In the Know
Kettlebells Keeping fit with a storied piece of equipment. By Ryan Nail, Photos by Rudy Arocha
Kettlebells, one of the more popular pieces of fitness equipment, date back to the early 1900s. Did you know the use of kettlebells originated from canon balls? That is just one of the few amazing things I learned while researching the topic for this column. For the winter issue, I had the privilege of reviewing the latest fitness book and speaking with Steve Cotter, a veteran in the fitness industry and author of the new book Kettebell Training. As the founder of the International Kettlebell and Fitness Federation (IKFF), Cotter is credited for bringing kettlebells back in to the fitness circuit and making it fun and popular. I have been in the fitness industry for almost seven years now, and after reading Kettebell Training, I learned more about kettlebells than I ever knew existed. I highly recommend this book if you’ve ever wanted to learn how to incorporate kettlebells in your fitness regime, if you want to learn about the diversity of kettlebells or if you use kettlebells but want to perfect the craft and learn new exercises. Steve Cotter started out in martial arts and became disciplined in the training aspect. As he
won contact tournaments, he wanted to know the science behind training, so he got a degree in kinesiology and started teaching classes. As he started his search for the most efficient way to train, he ran in to an oldie but goodie: the kettlebell. Cotter started mixing traditional kettlebell exercises with his martialarts training. He then created kettlebell DVDs and the popularity for kettlebells began to grow. The kettlebell started to take popularity through the web and only grew from there. Cotter’s goal has been to educate the masses about fitness and kettlebells, so he developed the IKFF certifications. Cotter does seminars throughout the world teaching people how to use kettlebells while optimizing their fitness through gaining strength and power and integrating mind and body in to their fitness regimes. Cotter has worked with NFL teams and the U.S. Navy Seals. Through his efforts to reach the masses, he teamed up with Human Kinetics and created his latest book, Kettlebell Training. I asked him what some of his favorite functional kettlebell exercises are and he replied that he likes to keep it simple with the snatch and the clean-and-jerk, otherwise known as the long cycle. I also asked him what his favorite core exercises were using the kettlebell and he likes doing a heavy front squat using two kettlebells, the overhead squat and the windmill. As a fitness expert, I highly recommend read-
ing this book to take your fitness routine to a new level. If you would like to know more about what Steve Cotter is up to or about the IKFF, visit ikff.com or pick up the new book today!
RYAN NAIL is the owner of CoreFit Training. For more information, visit traincorefit.com.
The Windmill Keep toes angled or toes forward stance. Clean a kettlebell to the chest with your right arm and feet pointing forward, shoulder-width apart. Then pivot on your heels to the left, approximately 45 degrees. The left foot is now the front and the right foot is the rear foot. Raise your right arm overhead with the bicep touching your ear and turn your left palm forward so that the back of your left hand is against the inside of your left thigh. Shift your wieght maximally on the rear leg throughout the windmill movement. Do not shift to the forward leg at any portion of the movement. Now look up to the high hand and as you look up, rotate your upper torso toward the hand as such that you feel your chest lifting and facing toward the ceiling. Lower yourself by pressing your rear hip out to the side and lift up by pulling with the rear hip to return to start.
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Snatch The kettlebell is swung above the head and the arm is fully extended as the kettlebell reaches overhead.
Heavy Front Squat Clean two kettlebells to your shoulders. Clean the kettlebells to your shoulders by extending through the legs and hips as you pull the kettlebells toward your shoulders. Rotate your wrists as you do so. Looking straight ahead at all times, squat as low as you can and pause at the bottom. As you squat down, push your knees out. You should squat between your legs, keeping an upright torso, with your head and chest up. Then rise back up by driving through your heels and repeat.
Double Overhead Squat Set your stance like a heavy squat and then press your kettlebells in the air as you squat. Keep your chest lifted and shoulder blades pinched together in your back. Squat by sitting your hips back and down. Drive up by pressing your feet into the ground and return to the standing position.
Clean and Jerk A kettlebell lift that is performed in three phases: clean kettlebells to chest, jerk kettlebells overhead and drop kettlebells into backswing postition. These three movements are repeated continuously throughout the set. Also called long cycles.
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In the Know
Anything But Boring Balancing a challenging career and parenting multiples from a father of quadruplets. By Ginny Grimsley
Larry Katzen forged an ambitious career as a leader at one of the world’s most prestigious accounting firms. But he has been equally ambitious with his family life; he’s the father of quadruplets: three sons and a daughter and he felt it was important to serve his community, sitting on more than 10 boards of directors. “It was an incredible challenge and I don’t regret one minute of it!” says Katzen, author of And You Thought Accountants Were Boring – My Life Inside Arthur Andersen, a look at working in one of the world’s most historically important accounting firms while nurturing bonds with his wife and children. “The quadruplets were born April 22, 1974, before multiple births became fairly common, so we were front-page news and featured on all the national TV news shows,” Katzen says. “But that also tells you there weren’t many other parents who could give us advice, and certainly no Internet forums to turn to.” At the time, Katzen was also working his way up the ladder and taking on new challenges at Arthur Andersen, one of the “Big 8” accounting firms. How did he and his wife, Susan, manage? “It comes down to sticking to some basic principles: doing the right thing, for one, and listening to your heart,” Katzen says. He draws on his 35-year career and family life to offer these tips for working parents with multiple children:
r Cultivate support systems! One of the wonderful things about Arthur Andersen was the
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people who worked there, including his bosses, Katzen says. “They knew the physical and financial struggles Susan and I faced caring for four babies and, because I never gave less than my all at work, they did what they could to work around my situation,” he says. That included a heftierthan-usual annual pay raise that Katzen learned only years later was approved because the firm’s partners knew he would need the extra money. Susan reached out to moms of multiples to develop her own support system, and the couple hired a recent high-school graduate to help care for their rambunctious brood a couple days a week. “There’s no glory in not asking for support and help,” Katzen says.
r Combine business and family. Katzen traveled frequently for his job and, when his children were 9 years old, a business friend suggested he bring them along, one at a time, on his trips. “The first was my daughter, Laurie. We flew to New York on a Friday and spent the weekend shopping, dining, taking in a show. For the first time ever, we were alone together without any disruptions,” Katzen says. “Neither of us ever forgot that weekend.”
r Consider buying a small vacation home. Traveling with four young children was extremely difficult, especially nights in motels, where the family would split up in to two rooms, one parent and two children in each. “When we discovered Sun Valley, Idaho, the children were 6. On our first trip there, they quickly learned to ski, and they clearly loved the snow; we could hardly get
them to come inside,” Katzen says. The family so enjoyed the vacation, they looked in to the prices of condos. “We found a furnished condo at a very affordable price and for the next 13 years, we enjoyed summers and winters in Sun Valley,” Katzen says. “It may sound like a big investment, but when you consider the costs of motels and dining out for a family of six, it works out well, and it’s a lot more comfortable.” For more on parenting multiples, visit larrykatzen.com.
The 12th Annual More Than a Game Celebrity Golf Tournament and Party
Redefining your backyard dreams! Thanks to the many supporters of our recent More Than a Game Fundraising Event especially our hosts: Ray Benson Julie & Ben Crenshaw Lacey & Huston Street Diann & Jay Watson And our Title Sponsor:
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Since 1999 The First Tee has been impact the lives of young people by providing educational programs that build character, instill life-enhancing values, and promote healthy choices through the game of golf.
In the Know
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pretty woman speaks her mind
Anne Hudson The woman behind the voice on your radio. By Adam Linehan, Photo by Annie Ray
If you listen to the radio, you’re probably familiar with her voice, and if you follow Austin’s fashion scene, her beautiful face as well. Meet Anne Hudson, local radio DJ, television personality, philanthropist and one of Austin’s most gorgeous rising stars. Raised in The Woodlands, Hudson began her career in broadcasting in Bowling Green, Ky. After working there as a television reporter and radio host, she eventually began missing Texas (as people often do) and decided to take a broadcasting gig in Austin. Since returning to the Lone Star State, Hudson has been busy establishing herself as one of the city’s hottest media personalities, splitting her time between working as a host of two radio shows—one on KASE 101, the other on 103.1 iHeart Austin—as well as a lifestyle reporter for YNN, covering Austin’s burgeoning fashion scene. And if that doesn’t keep her busy enough, the mother of two lends her talents and her time to helping a number of local charity organizations, and even plans to launch one of her own in the coming months. Fortunately, she agreed to make room in her busy schedule to sit down with us and share a piece of her mind. On Giving Back I’ve teamed up with Ronald McDonald House and I came up with this really cool idea that we’re actually going to move forward with and hope to launch in January 2014. It’s basically an organization that encourages kids to give back to their communities and we’re going to do that through things
they can be creative with, like lemonade stands. Say your kid has a lemonade stand and all those proceeds are going to Ronald McDonald House. Then the child comes in and makes the donation and we show them around and give them a real good feel of what it’s like to give back to a really good cause. On Being A CharityBash Bachelorette I’ve heard a lot about CharityBash and Citizen Generation through the years. When I was approached by Citizen Generation to be a part of CharityBash, it was a no-brainer! I like to do as much as I can to give back, especially in Austin. It’s pretty amazing how giving and generous our community is when it comes to supporting a great cause. I’m overwhelmed with gratitude for the efforts my friends and business contacts have made in supporting me and Citizen Generation in raising money through CharityBash. On Where You Can Usually Find Her I’m loving Rainey Street right now. That’s been one of my favorite places to hang out. All of the bars are in walking distance of each other, but each has a different vibe and a different crowd of people to meet up with. On Good Local Date-Night Spots We always like to do live music, so Stubb’s is always a hotspot for us. We also like to go to a lot of different dinner spots, and we try to shake it up. There are so many awesome ones in town. We went to Winflo Osteria recently and it was really cool. I love the vibe there. On What Makes a Man Attractive I like confidence without cockiness, and that’s a very hard combination to come by. I like someone who’s really secure and down-to-earth and not necessarily witty, but they have to have a laid-back, cool style about them. Also, I like a guy who’s fit but not too fit because I don’t want to feel like they’re spending too much time on themselves in the gym. Someone who cares, but not like, psychotically cares. On How a Man Should Dress Casual-chic. Where it’s kind of casual but really chicly put together. Like, effortless but it all goes together well, with a little style twist to it. Maybe pieces of J. Crew with fancy pants and some roughed-up boots.
FLEMING’S PRIVATE DINING For Parties, Dinners, Receptions and Other Important Occasions Morning and afternoon functions Cocktails and hors d’oeuvres Engagement parties • Bridal showers Rehearsal dinners • After-wedding brunches • Wine pairing dinners All-day meetings • Birthdays • Anniversaries • Audio/Video services, including Wi-Fi and Cisco TelePresence video conferencing For more information, please contact our Private Dining Director at 512-835-9463.
11600 Century Oaks Terrace, Austin www.FlemingsSteakhouse.com/Austin
Prime Steak & 100 Wines by the Glass
Brian Jones' sports report
College Hoops Preview An exciting season in which the ultimate winner may be determined by talent of transfers, rookies and long shooters. By Tim Reilly The 108th campaign of University of Texas basketball is underway. After a season to forget in 2012-13, the Longhorns are looking to rebuild and rebound. Rick Barnes, who missed his first NCAA tournament in 15 years with Texas, will find himself in the hot seat if he cannot right the ship this winter. Turning the page will prove difficult this year, as the Longhorns are without their top four scorers from last season. Myck Kabongo left early to pursue his pro career, Sheldon McClellan and Julien Lewis both transferred out of the program and Ioannis Papapetrou accepted a lucrative offer to play ball in Greece. It will be difficult for Texas to find reliable scoring options, with more than half of last year’s scoring production out the door. The Longhorns will need to rely on sophomore point guard Javan Felix to facilitate the offense, a scary proposition considering he shot an abysmal 35 percent from the floor last season. Felix, at his best when he is setting up teammates, averaged 5.5 assists as a starter in 2012-13 during Kabongo’s 23-game suspension. Fellow sophomore Cameron Ridley, a former McDonald’s All-American center, also needs to step up after a disappointing freshman campaign. Junior forward Jonathan Holmes will provide much-needed stability to this young roster, having led the Longhorns in rebounding last season, despite only averaging 20 minutes per game. Since college basketball is inherently unpre-
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Notable Games: Dec. 18 @ North Carolina
Freshman point guard Taylor Isaiah
Dec. 21 vs. Michigan State Jan. 8 @ Oklahoma State Feb. 1 vs. Kansas Feb. 11 vs. Oklahoma State Feb. 22 @ Kansas dictable, it is unfair to assess a team’s prospects safely upon lack of experience. A future star (possibly freshman point guard Isaiah Taylor) can emerge from nowhere to lead the Longhorns to their next tourney appearance. As always, there is plenty of talent and exciting story lines throughout the rest of the nation. Here is a brief look at some of the teams and players to watch this season:
Louisville Cardinals Although Peyton Siva and Gorgui Dieng have departed for the pros, Rick Pitino’s squad still has plenty of firepower. Russ Smith and soon-to-be sophomore sensation Montrezl Harrell will provide a formidable tandem that no team will want to face come March. Michigan State Spartans Tom Izzo is poised to make another title run, returning six of his top seven scorers from last season. Gary Harris and Keith Appling comprise the best backcourt in the Big Ten, while Adreian Payne will clean up in the paint. Kentucky Wildcats Last season ended with a first-round exit from the NIT. Don’t expect that to happen again. John Calipari’s Kiddie Cats are loaded with even more talent. A new crop of freshman and returnees Alex Poythress and Willie Cauley-Stein will bring title hopes back to the Bluegrass State. Duke Blue Devils Coach K has mentored plenty of talent in his tenure at Duke, but incoming frosh Jabari Parker may be his best recruit in recent memory. Miss State transfer Rodney Hood
also will contribute immediately and give the Blue Devils another elite scoring option. Sleeper Pick: UCLA Bruins In his first year at the helm, Steve Alford will attempt to return the Bruins to national prominence. Sophomore guards Jordan Adams and Kyle Anderson are supremely talented players who will look to improve on their stellar freshman seasons.
Top photo courtesy of University of Texas at Austin Athletics. Jones photo by Cody Hamilton.
In the Know
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Naismith Watch List G Marcus Smart – Sophomore, Oklahoma State Smart was a lock to be a lottery pick last June, but passed up the opportunity for another season in Stillwater. A natural leader who does everything right on the court, Smart is the frontrunner for POY honors. F Doug McDermott – Senior, Creighton He may be the coach’s son, but McDermott unquestionably earns his playing time. Efficient in the paint and a sniper from long range, Dougie McBuckets will lead the nation in scoring this season. F Andrew Wiggins – Freshman, Kansas Wiggins is an elite talent with an explosive first step and a 44-inch vertical leap. NBA cellar-dwellers might be tempted to tank their seasons just for the chance of getting this freshman phenom on their roster. G Gary Harris – Sophomore, Michigan State The returning Big Ten Freshman of the Year has lofty goals for his sophomore season. A deadly shooter who also can finish at the rim, Harris is one of the best lock-down defenders in the country. Sleeper Pick: F Montrezl Harrell – Sophomore, Louisville Russ Smith may be an obvious pick, but Harrell is going to be the force in the AAC this year. Consigned to a bench role his freshman season, this monstrous forward will vault to superstardom once he is turned loose.
F Julius Randle – Kentucky Out of all the freshman talent in Lexington, Randle will surely be the standout. A walking double-double with a great work ethic, Randle will be the leader from day one for this young Wildcats squad. F Jabari Parker – Duke Before Andrew Wiggins was eligible to join the college ranks, Parker was the prize recruit of this year’s class. This Simeon High product can score on all three levels and will challenge Wiggins and Julius Randle as the nation’s best frosh.
O rd gi er fts ho to lid da a y! y
F Aaron Gordon – Arizona If you miss any of ’Zona’s games this season, you will still catch Gordon in the highlight reel. An electrifying athlete who can jump out of the gym, Gordon is essentially a lock for Pac-12 freshman of the year. C Joel Embiid – Kansas This seven-footer from Cameroon didn’t pick up a basketball until age 15, just like his idol Hakeem Olajuwon. Embiid is the nation’s top incoming center. His raw talent and rim-protecting abilities will have pro scouts lining up to see him play. Sleeper Pick: G E.C. Matthews – Rhode Island The Rams found a future star in Matthews, a gifted scoring guard who led Romulus High to its first state championship since 1986. Matthews has an uncanny ability to create his own offense and will emerge as one of the best young guards in the country.
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In the Know
Men’s Guide to Better Sex Five ways to improve your sex life. Studies suggest that a good sex life helps men live a long, happy life. Of course, that could also be misconstrued to suggest that those who are healthier and happier just have more sex. Either way, if you’re going to go, you might as well go with a bang (pun intended). Let’s look at five areas that can improve your sex life just by following a few simple tips.
While a man’s erectile problems can be improved by finding ways to relax his mind, some research
An online survey reported that 50 percent of men and women who’ve abandoned their church also discovered greater sexual satisfaction. Not everybody in these surveys became happier. However, there was enough of a difference to perk some researcher’s attention. Now, this is not just an excuse to sleep in on Sunday mornings. Some guys just grow up feeling shameful about their sexuality. You don’t have to leave your religion to enjoy better sex. All you have to do is leave those guilty feelings behind.
Monkey Read...Monkey Do
Men know that exercise is good for them. Just how good it can be, you may not have realized. One of the theories about performance problems in men is that daily anxiety caused by work, women and worry produces stress hormones in the body, making it difficult to get in the mood. When you exercise regularly, you release the chemical oxytocin, which can have a calming effect on the body. When the body is relaxed, it is ready for sex.
Busy men often bypass the experimental playfulness that used to lead to sex, settling for a quickie instead. Sexperts recommend getting in touch with those youthful memories by kissing and touching your partner with her clothes on. Trust me, she’ll be a whole different animal once they do come off!
Surveys suggest that 90 percent of men are quite satisfied with their sex lives (in other words, we’re having regular orgasms). However, only 50 percent of women have the same enthusiastic commentary. It’s not all us guys’ fault. These surveys also suggest that the women who know what feels good and vocalize that to their partners tend to be most satisfied. This means that a guy can encourage his partner to become more exploratory by practicing empathy (“How would this feel to her?”).
By Eric Leech
suggests physical exertion may be more effective for women. When a woman engages in a vigorous activity, her blood flow increases, endorphins are released and she is more likely to feel like getting randy. Your only problem is that you have to work fast, as the research suggests your window is somewhere within 15 minutes of completion of a workout.
Studies suggest that men and women can prime themselves for sex. While a nudie magazine may be all a guy needs to start his engine, for women, romance novels hold the most promise, according to surveys. How much difference can reading about sex make? Well, according to these surveys, you may find yourself making love with your partner about 75 percent more often than you do now. If your partner is not in to romance novels, there is evidence that frequent fantasizing can have the same effect.
The early years of sexual exploration bring fond memories for many guys. Even if your first experiences weren’t all that great, the exploration part probably made it better than it would have been.
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women who know what feels good and vocalize that to their partners tend to be most satisfied. Slippery When Wet
Better sex does come in a bottle, and I’m not talking about Viagra. One of the easiest ways to improve sex is to introduce some slippery stuff in to your intimate sessions. Surveys suggest the reason why many women find sex unpleasant is because their own lubrication is not enough to keep the motions smooth and pain-free. This is a fact of life that happens to women of all ages. The most recommended lube for all occasions is water-based.
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The Last Word
Hugs for the Holidays A universal gift with the best return policy ever. OK, you Austin men out there (women too, but mainly men): You say you’re not a hugger. Well, I say do what my dear friend Governor Ann Richards used to say to me every time I ran in to her, “Precious, get over it and get on with it.” I am encouraging all of you—again, especially you men—to give unconditional, authentic and heartfelt hugs to everyone this holiday season. I come from a family of huggers, especially my dad, Roy Spence Sr., or “Big R” as many people called him. He was born in the culturally rich yet economically poor border town of Eagle Pass, Texas, in 1913. As you may know by now, I had many great and frankly remarkable adventures during his extraordinary 95 years, but some of the fondest memories I have are from my childhood, walking hand in hand with him in Piedras Negras, a Mexican border town right across the Rio Grande from his hometown of Eagle Pass.
80 ATX MAN winter 2013
Now, Big R was a straight-up, 6-foot-5-inch, strikingly handsome man. But when he met somebody on the street, he would bend right over and hug them all—men, women, children. He would say in Spanish, “Meet my son, Royito,” and the hugging would start all over again with me. When I was a little boy, my dad taught me that, as a man, it is cool to hug everyone. As a dad, he never ever hesitated to give me a public hug. And while I may have been a tad embarrassed by it a few times in my life, that was just the way it was. As he always said, “Be kind to everyone you meet because everyone is fighting some kind of battle.” My new book, The 10 Essential Hugs of Life, is now out. Jared Dunten, my partner and illustrator, is the most amazingly talented and gifted and courageous man I know. Jared and I teamed up to spread the word that hugs have the hidden power to lift people up, especially yourself. When you go on a journey of hugs, you find richness in the
language of hugs. As so many people have said in so many different ways, hugs are handshakes from the heart; a hug is like a bandage to a hurting wound; you can’t give a hug without getting one; no matter how hard you hug your money, it never hugs back; a hug is the shortest distance between friends; hugs are the universal medicine. I believe that. The 10 Essential Hugs of Life is an interconnected circle of healing and happiness. Each one is important, and you can’t create a full life of joy without all of them. So during this holiday season, use the healing and loving power of hugs that you hold in your mind, heart and arms to lift spirits, including your own, to build bridges and offer genuine love and empathy. So people—yes, especially you men out there— give a lot of hugs for the holidays. They are free. They come from the heart. They are always the right size. And the only return policy that hugs ever come with is you will get a big hug in return.
Photo by Alexis Wilson, GSD&M. Book photo by Randal Ford.
By Roy Spence
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