Audley Traveler Autumn 2018

AUTUMN 2018

REDISCOVER CAMBODIA

New ways to enjoy the culturally rich corners of Cambodia

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CONTENTS 4 First Sight

22Cambodia

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Spectacular images from our specialists’ latest trips: this edition, Japan and Egypt.

Escape Routes

Travel news, from brand new stays to the latest flight routes. Go glamping in Mexico, enjoy Hogmanay in Scotland and meet our Concierge team.

14

Flying Solo

In today’s world of constant connection sometimes the best way to escape is by traveling on your own. We show you where to go.

Specialist Mark revisits Cambodia to find a country looking to the future, while making the most of its past.

38Just Back From...

Updates from our specialists’ travels: Japan, Namibia, India, and England.

Head to Head: Patagonia Chile vs Argentina

Hours In...

Hwange National Park 4048

From Kenya to America

44Travelers’ Tales

Latin America’s southern tip offers dramatic landscapes and great walks – but which side of the border should you visit?

30

Audley clients Damon and Carole host their Kenya guide at their home in Minnesota.

Experience elephant, lion and the abundant birdlife of Zimbabwe’s safari heartlands.

Your stories and images: fishing in New Zealand and Zambia’s wildlife.

48Interview

Planet Earth II producer Chadden Hunter on his favorite projects.

6 Indian City Experiences 20Top 32Wine Regions of Europe 49Q&A: China See India’s cities in a new light – our specialists share their recommendations.

Europe is known for remarkable regional wine. We suggest some of our favorite areas and vintages.

Specialist Cheryl lets you know what to expect on your first trip.

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WELCOME

Dear Traveler

Contributors

Welcome to your latest issue of Audley Traveler.

This summer left us fantasizing about escaping the crowds – and so on p14 we invite you to get lost with us.

Our specialists share with us their four favorite countries to travel on their own. From the enigmatic streets of Cartagena, Colombia, to the starry skies of the Kimberley in northwest Australia.

Or, perhaps the blue skies of summer turned your mind to sun-drenched vineyards. On p32 we take a leisurely trip through the wine regions of Europe. Our specialists explore medieval villages in Italy, enjoy wine in the Rioja region of Spain, cruise along the Douro River in Portugal and learn why horse-drawn plows are making a comeback at some vineyards in France.

Also in the issue, one of our most experienced Cambodia specialists reflects on the changes he’s witnessed in the country over the past 15 years after a recent research trip.

He discovers new ways to take in the temples of Angkor, and explains why Phnom Penh is now deserving of several days’ exploration.

Happy reading,

Jacqui Lewis President & Managing Director, North America

77 N Washington St, 6th Floor, Boston, MA 02114 Telephone: 1-855-838-8300 Website: www.audleytravel.com The vacations featured in this magazine are suggestions only and will be customized to fit your travel dates and preferences. All prices quoted are exclusive of international flights and subject to change.

Designed by Wanderlust Travel Media.

CST#2117258-40 | Fla. Seller of Travel Ref. No. ST39468.

Mary Cropper Thailand specialist Mary lived in Thailand for two years, taking advantage of the chance to meet incredible people and travel extensively throughout the country.

What’s your tip for traveling responsibly?

Take laundry to local vendors rather than hotels to support communities.

Emma Fritz Chile specialist Whenever possible Emma visits new countries and cultures, but her true passion is Latin America, where she spent four years as an English teacher in Chile.

What’s your tip for traveling responsibly?

Slow down and travel like a local as often as possible.

Mark Robinson Cambodia specialist Since joining Audley in 2007, Mark has returned to Southeast Asia many times – and especially the changing country of Cambodia. Read about his most recent experiences there on page 22.

What’s your tip for traveling responsibly?

Refill, not landfill: use refillable water bottles.

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THINGS we’ve learned in this issue

p27

1

Calcutta is the only place in India where tea is still drunk from handmade clay cups.

Once empty, they soften back into clay to be recycled (p21).

2

Port wine was originally created during the 18th century by adding brandy to wine in order to preserve it (p37).

3

Some of the world’s finest pepper is grown around Kampot, a riverside city in southern Cambodia (p27).

4

Patagonia has some of the most changeable weather on the planet. Within an hour, you could experience rain, snow, gusts of wind, and blazing sunshine. It’s given rise to a local saying: ‘if you don’t like the weather, wait ten minutes’ (p28).

Images supplied by Audley travelers, staff and suppliers, Superstock, Robert Harding, Alamy, iStock and AWL AUT UM N 2018

Water scene in Cambodia Rediscover Cambodia then and now on page 22. For more information, call our Cambodia specialists on 1-855-838-2160 or request a copy of our brochure at www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures

REDISCOVER CAMBODIA

New ways to enjoy the culturally rich corners of Cambodia

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR DAILY TRAVEL INSPIRATION Tag @AudleyTravel and #TheAudleyWay to share your travel photos with us.

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On the cover

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OKINAWA, JAPAN

By Amanda MacKenzie, Audley Japan specialist “I’ve always thought of Okinawa as a collection of sandy beaches and coral reefs, so when I jumped in my rental car to explore Ishigaki Island, I never expected to find scenery like this. From the base of Uganzaki Lighthouse, I basked in the beauty of the rocky cliffs and the bay below, trying to find the perfect angle for a photo.

It was a rare moment of silence after a long day navigating the crowds at Kabira Bay, and getting to enjoy such a beautiful view, without another soul around, was the perfect end to the day.”

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FIRST SIGHT

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TEMPLE OF NEFERTARI, ABU SIMBEL, EGYPT

By Nick Slater, Egypt specialist “Relocated in 1968 due to the creation of Lake Nasser, the Abu Simbel temples were constructed over 3,000 years ago and feature some of the largest remaining statues built in ancient Egypt.

The scale of this site is hard to comprehend and it boasts impressive views over Lake Nasser. I took this photo of the Temple of Nefertari in the morning, before the crowds arrived.

I recommend taking the short flight from Aswan to spend time exploring both temples inside and out.�

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FIRST SIGHT

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ESCAPE ROUTES

TRAVEL NEWS | FLIGHT DECK | CHARITY UPDATE | CHECK IN

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WHAT’S NEW

Gorilla spotting: brand new trek In recent years, a family of mountain gorillas has settled in Uganda’s Mgahinga National Park. Mgahinga sits high in the clouds within the Virunga range, a chain of volcanoes that extends into Rwanda and the DRC. Here you can trek to see the Nyakagezi family, consisting of four silverbacks, three adult females, two juveniles and two infants.

Not only will you visit this endangered species among the beauty of the Virungas, but it is one of the best-value gorilla trekking opportunities available. For more information, please contact our Uganda safari specialists on 1-855-838-0575.

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ESCAPE ROUTES

Colombia in numbers

2nd

FLIGHT DECK

Most biodiverse country in the world

Aer Lingus has announced that next year it will begin direct flights going between Dublin to both Saint Paul, Minneapolis, and Montreal. Flights from Minneapolis will launch on August 8 while flights from Montreal will launch on July 8.

The height of Colombia’s highest peak, located next to the Caribbean Sea

18,946 ft

The latest flight news

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Cathay Pacific will launch flights from Dulles Airport in Washington DC to Hong Kong. The route began on September 18, providing an essential stopover for passengers continuing on to Southeast Asia.

The Falkland Islands’ government has selected LATAM Airlines as the preferred operator for a second commercial flight between the Falkland Islands and South America.

LATAM has proposed a weekly flight from São Paulo, with a monthly stopover in Argentina. This will be the carrier’s second commercial flight to the Falklands; they currently operate a weekly service from Punta Arenas in Chile, with a monthly stopover in Rio Gallegos in Argentine Patagonia.

Amerindian languages are spoken

14.5 million Celebrating our award-winning guides This year, we ventured to Singapore for the 2018 Audley Guide Awards to celebrate the most outstanding guides in Asia, based on your feedback. More than 50 guides came from across Asia, from India to the Philippines, to be recognized. Most had never been to Singapore, and for some this was their first trip abroad.

As well as celebrating success and exploring the city, our guides spent a day workshopping techniques and ideas. We are proud to honor some of the key people who create memories and experiences on your trips.

Watch our video from the event and hear from some of our award-winning guides at www.audleytravel.com/us/videos

bags of coffee exported annually

1988

First carnival in Baranquilla, the world’s second largest party

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Beaches to enjoy

Go glamping in Mexico Snorkel with sea lions and kayak through mangroves while magnificent frigatebirds circle overhead, as you enjoy an alternative way to stay in Mexico. Camp Cecil is a new glamping experience on Isla Espíritu Santo, a wildlife-rich island declared a Biosphere Reserve

by UNESCO in 1995.

While the facilities are simple, there are plenty of high-end touches: spacious tents, fine linens and some of the best food in Baja California. For more information, please contact our Mexico specialists on 1-855-838-8670.

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CHECK IN

The most exciting new stays Santorini Mozambique, near Vilanculos, Mozambique Santorini Mozambique (pictured) overlooks Kingfisher Bay’s white sands. Activities include diving, kayaking, horse riding and dhow cruises. Better yet, the nearby town of Vilanculos can be accessed via direct flights from the Kruger.

Shinta Mani Wild, Southern Cardamon National Park, Cambodia Located in Cambodia’s last great wilderness, Shinta Mani Wild is due to open in November 2018.

Perched along a remote riverside and surrounded by three national parks, each of the 15 tents infuses luxury with a touch of adventure. You can even arrive at the property by zip-line or help support ongoing community work.

The Celestine, Kyoto, Japan This modern hotel with traditional quirks recently opened its doors in the historic district of Gion.

The property offers a unique blend of local culture with a contemporary style while maintaining Japanese hospitality.

Pestana Porto – A Brasileira, Porto, Portugal A local institution Café A Brasileira is believed to have served Porto’s first cup of coffee in the early 1900s. After a recent large-scale renovation, the historic building above the cafe has been converted into a hotel featuring high-end amenities and a chic interior.

Celebrate Hogmanay in Scotland New Year’s Eve – or Hogmanay as it’s called in Scottish – is celebrated in style all across Scotland, Edinburgh in particular. The city is no stranger to creative celebration, with the Edinburgh International Festival and the Edinburgh Festival Fringe taking over the capital each August.

For Hogmanay, Edinburgh hosts street parties, a concert beneath the castle (and a candlelit one on the Royal Mile), a ceilidh in the castle grounds and several child-friendly events. Now is the perfect time to book for Hogmanay 2019, before the city’s hotels fill up. For more information, please contact our UK specialists on 1-855-593-2006.

Fighting back against plastic

Meet the Concierge team

As part of our responsible travel ethos, we have been focusing on initiatives across Japan and Southeast Asia. In Thailand and Cambodia, we provide reusable water bottles to cut down plastic use, and hotels are joining the effort by providing refill stations.

We have also partnered with Second Harvest Japan, a charity that has been working to end hunger there since 2002. You’ll be provided with a pre-paid envelope to return your PASMO transport card (similar to an Oyster card) at the end of your journey — the leftover balance is donated to Second Harvest and the card recycled. For more information, please contact our Japan and Southeast Asia specialists on 1-855-838-0100.

Not sure where to travel to next? With so many options, we understand it’s not always easy deciding. Here’s where our Concierge team can help. Having traveled extensively, our team of experts will be able to advise you, whatever your travel interests: wildlife, local culture, landscapes or historical sites.

Based on the time of year you’re looking to travel, they can make suggestions and narrow down your options. They’ll then put you in touch with a relevant country specialist to set your plans in motion. For more information, please contact our Concierge team on 1-855-838-5925.

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ESCAPE ROUTES

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CHARITY UPDATE

Over $25,000 raised for ShelterBox This summer, we’ve been busy raising money for our charity of the year, ShelterBox. A cycling tour, summer party, World Cup sweepstake and a camp-out at our headquarters in England have all helped us to raise over

$25,000. With more events planned, we are confident we will hit our target of $70,000 by the end of the year.

Our fundraising team has also been learning more about the charity’s work.

In July, they visited ShelterBox HQ in

Cornwall, England. As well as seeing the interactive visitors’ center, they spoke to members of the ShelterBox team to learn more about the logistics of sending aid abroad, and to see the impact their work has had.

What to READ

What to WATCH

What to SEE

What to DOWNLOAD

From tracking lion on foot to being taught how to fish by the President of Moldova, Simon Reeve has had an exciting and varied career.

In his autobiography Step

by Step, he tells his life story through the many journeys he has taken. Out now.

The much anticipated fifth season of Chef’s Table will highlight four more astounding chefs. Each episode explores the culinary artistry of a different chef as well as the destination and experiences that have inspired them. Available now on Netflix.

French artist Eugène Delacroix’s (1798–1863) collection will be on display this fall at The Met. Over 150 paintings, drawings, prints and manuscripts are displayed in conjunction with Musée du Louvre in Paris.

Showing now through January 6th.

Make sure you never get lost in a new city again with Maps.me.

The app allows you to download offline maps showing destinations all over the world, and works with your GPS tracking so you can see where you are, even without WiFi. Available on iOS and Android.

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ESCAPE ROUTES

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RECIPE

On my last trip to Peru I visited Mil, a straw-roof restaurant and former vicuña breeding hub that seats only 20. I indulged in an eight-course meal which included pairings with spirits, many created from

By Jenna Banks, Peru specialist local plants. The menu focuses on produce grown in the immediate environment, mirroring the experimental testing TOP TIP ituated next to the grounds of the Inca site of Moray.

“Outside of Peru, terraced ruins of Each dish incorporates rocoto peppers Moray, in Peru’s ingredients found at different may also be called Sacred Valley, is altitudes. I loved the ‘Forest Bound’ manzano peppers.”

Virgilio Martínez’s newest course, which featured pork belly restaurant, Mil. Martínez is with lupini beans, rocoto peppers, the head chef of Central in Lima, avocado and cornbread (pictured). named by Forbes as this year’s I experimented with creating a dish with sixth-best restaurant in the world, and is similar flavors when I returned home, and known as a master of avant-garde dishes came up with this recipe. I hope it’ll bring a inspired by his mother country. bit of the Peruvian Andes to your own kitchen.

Andean pork belly

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Ingredients ½lb pork belly 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper ¾ cup lupini beans 1 small rocoto pepper 1 avocado

Preparation 1. Rub the pork belly with the salt and pepper; cover and refrigerate overnight.

2. Remove the pork and roast for 30 minutes at 400F, reduce heat to 250F and cook for an additional hour.

3. While the pork is cooking, boil the lupini beans until tender. Slice the rocoto pepper and avocado.

4. Top the tender pork with the pepper and avocado and serve alongside the beans.

Have you recreated a recipe we’ve featured in Audley Traveler? Or have you sampled a delicious local cuisine on your travels? We’d love to see your images of your favorite food and drink experiences. Tag your Instagram and Twitter posts with #TheAudleyWay and @AudleyTravel.

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ERT @BRIAN_COOV

@SARAHWILLICLARKAMS

@HANNAH_BALL82

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NEW EXPERIENCES IN

COSTA RICA A wildlife-spotter’s paradise, we are always seeking out new areas to discover unusual species in Costa Rica. Specialists Alison and Rosalind share some of their latest finds from their recent research trip…

ROSALIND BARNES’ HIGHLIGHTS:

ALISON WALLINGER’S HIGHLIGHTS:

Experiencing the Wetlands at Rancho Humo, Nicoya

Navigating the waterways of Palo Verde National Park

"Accessed via a dirt road through lush, green fields, Rancho Humo is situated at the top of the Gulf of Nicoya. Set in four square miles of land, the remote location in the wetlands allows for fantastic birdwatching opportunities, as well as clear skies free from light pollution and ideal for stargazing – don’t forget your binoculars."

"For an authentic way to experience the rainforest, a boat trip down the Tempisque River is a great way to arrive at Palo Verde. Before I boarded the boat, I spotted a group of howler monkeys resting in the treetops above me. My expert naturalist guide then navigated us down the river in search of more wildlife, including crocodiles, herons, kingfishers and basilisk lizards. "

Birdspotting at Maquenque Ecolodge, San Carlos River

Exploring after dark at Isla Chiquita, Isla Jesuita

"Set on a lagoon, this ecolodge is one of my favorite places in Costa Rica to spot wildlife – on a short guided tour, I saw 38 different species of bird, including the green macaw that came to feast on bananas. As the sun goes down, frogs come alive in chorus and basilisk lizards sprint across the water."

"For an alternative beach stay, I’d recommend glamping at Isla Chiquita – the property features just 15 safari-style tents nestled in the hillside, each including a private deck with views across the Gulf of Nicoya.

Venture out by boat after sunset to see bioluminescent plankton glowing in the dark water below."

Start planning your trip with one of our Costa Rica specialists. Call us on 1-855-838-8665.

www.audleytravel.com

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SAFARIS

GOING

SOLO Traveling on your own is nothing to be afraid of, but some places are better suited to going it alone. Our experts pick their favorites…

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SAFARIS

Out for a paddle Traveling alone gives ample time to indulge in the activities you enjoy, for as much or as little time as you desire.

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SOLO TRAVEL

A land down under (clockwise from this) The Great Barrier Reef is the largest coral reef system in the world; stone-stacking on the shores of Queensland; El Questro Homestead

AUSTRALIA

By Eric Nelson Australia is famous for the warmth of its people, making it an ideal location for solo travelers looking to explore its manifold natural highlights.

The Great Barrier Reef, situated off the coast of Queensland, is one of nature’s greatest ‘construction projects’. Base yourself in Port Douglas, where you’ll find various options for cruising the reef and reaching its top snorkeling and diving spots. Or you may wish to embark on a multi-day cruise of the Great Barrier Reef, which not only allows you to have an extended time exploring this ecosystem, but

also our cruise company of choice does not charge any single supplement on its cabins.

The Regal Port Douglas is convenient for solo travelers, since it’s just off Macrossan Street, the town’s main drag. Here, you’ll have access to the shops, restaurants, and bars, along with the marina. You’re also close to the golden sands of Four Mile Beach.

Port Douglas borders Daintree Rainforest, an ancient ecosystem. It’s been home to the indigenous Kuku Yulanji people for millennia,

and I suggest taking a small group tour here, which is also a great way to make friends.

Aiming to get off the beaten track? Head to the Kimberley in northwest Australia, a region where Outback meets the coastline.

You’ll fly into the station town of Kununurra, and I recommend staying at El Questro Wilderness Park, which has hiking and 4x4 trips. Make sure to spend a day exploring the Bungle Bungles in Purnululu National Park, as these rock formations are truly beguiling.

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SOUTH AFRICA

By Hailey Landers The diversity and modernity of Cape Town make it a fantastic experience for any solo traveler. As well as being home to landmarks such as Table Mountain and Robben Island, it’s fast becoming one of the world’s trendiest cities.

Markets run by young entrepreneurs are on the rise, and the culinary scene is bursting with new talent. A private walking tour with a local guide gives you a chance to meet local vendors while they prepare customary dishes such as vetkoek (fried dough bread filled with Cape Malay curry) for you to enjoy.

I also recommend a visit to the Modern Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA) in Cape Town’s newly developed Silo District. You can browse its collection of contemporary African art at your leisure, and it features the work of some of the continent’s best artists.

After a few days in Cape Town, I suggest spending some time in the bush. A safari offers the opportunity to meet other guests over shared meal times and game drives, but you can also enjoy some time to yourself during the day.

Sabi Sands Game Reserve, a private game reserve located within the Kruger National Park, is home to all of the Big Five. It also features some of the best safari lodges and guides in Africa. I like Nottens Bush Camp, an owner-run property that offers an authentic and rustic African bush experience, alongside excellent hospitality.

During your stay, you’ll head out on twice-daily game drives. But, you can also see wildlife from camp: the waterhole close to the property’s deck is known for attracting large herds of elephant.

Dinners are another highlight – you join other guests around a communal table, sharing tales from your game drives and comparing wildlife sightings while enjoying local dishes and wines.

Rainbow buildings (clockwise from this) Bo Kaap in Cape Town; Dulini River Lodge deck; giraffe are just some of the wildlife found in Sabi Sands

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Colorful Colombia (clockwise from this) Cartegena’s streets; explore jungle-fringed beaches; pool-side at Cayena Beach Villas

COLOMBIA

By Rachel Robar Colombia is back on many travelers’ radars. It’s now safe to visit once more, and the Colombians themselves are as hospitable as ever. This means that, in this part of South America, a solo traveler will never truly be alone – unless they purposely seek out their own quiet moments.

I recommend the Caribbean coast, where you can divide your time between vibrant fiestas and quieter nights spent under the stars. Head first to Tayrona National Park, where the snow-blanched Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain range slopes towards

a carpet of jungle abutting the sea. On jungle walks here, you might see tiny monkeys, and you can wander trails leading to small villages, or to the sea. Just outside of Tayrona National Park are the Cayena Beach Villas, staying here allows for easy access to the park and rugged coastline, plus a pool, yoga studio, and shaded hammocks.

After a few days of rejuvenation, I suggest heading to Cartagena. This Spanish colonial

walled city is a bewilderment of cobbled streets – sporadically overtaken by a spontaneous salsa party – and buildings with façades painted in acid-bright colors.

Make like the locals and sit with a cold Aguila beer in hand, perched on the old city walls overlooking the sea. Snorkeling trips leave daily from the city, or take a Caribbean cooking class at one of the best restaurants in the city.

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SOLO TRAVEL THAILAND

By Mary Cropper Thailand’s appeal not only derives from the beauty of its beaches and the richness in culture, but also its uncanny ability to appeal to a wide variety of people.

Chiang Mai, Thailand’s second-largest city, is one of my favorite areas to visit. The city center has a 16th-century old quarter, marked by a chunky city wall. I joined the locals and spent time strolling around the steaming street food stalls and handicraft bazars. Right outside of the city center, lies Banthai Village hotel, an oasis for any solo traveler looking for a prime location, great value and welcoming staff.

Depending on the time of year, I suggest catching a flight onwards to Koh Samui.

From rum distilleries to the Big Buddha Temple, there’s a lot to do on this beachfringed island. You can also take a smallgroup boat trip to nearby Koh Tao to dive among barracuda and turtle.

The Anantara BoPhut is located on BoPhut Beach and has a relaxed ambiance suited to solo travelers. You’re also a short walk from Fisherman’s Village, which comes to life each Friday evening with a popular market that sells everything from street-food snacks to one-of-a-kind handicrafts.

Green Thailand (clockwise from this) The Anantara BoPhut Resort; beach huts in Ko Samui; Chiang Mai night bazaar; a local shrine

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TOP 6 INDIAN CITY EXPERIENCES

INDIA

Our specialists reveal their favorite unique experiences that allow you to see India’s cities in a new light... to bed’ ceremony, Madurai 1Guided morning walk, Calcutta 2’Going

3Feeding holy fish, Jaisalmer

the local villages and Himalaya, lakes, Udaipur Rishikesh 4Cycling 5Spiritual

network tour, Mumbai 6Transport

Recommended by Niall Causer For me, no visit to Calcutta is complete without a guided walking tour of the city.

Starting outside Howrah Station, watch the throngs of commuters streaming across the Howrah Bridge into Calcutta. As you reach the other side, look down to the flower market where millions of brightly colored flowers are delivered and sold each day. You’ll also visit Kumartulli, the potter’s district, where artists craft clay idols for Hindu festivals as well as tiny clay teacups. Calcutta is the only place in India where masala tea is still drunk from clay cups, which are then discarded, and the clay recycled back into the river.

Recommended by Leigh Herzik Udaipur is fondly known as the ‘City of Lakes’, but many only see Lake Pichola during their stay, missing out on much of what makes the city special. To get a more in-depth look, I got up early to begin a 12-mile cycle that took in some of the other beautiful lakes. Cycling through local villages within the foothills of the Araveli range was hard work at times, but stopping for breakfast by the side of Tiger Lake was a magical way to start the day. If the distance is a bit of a challenge, you can also cycle within the old city, visiting local markets and temples as the city wakes up.

Recommended by Zac Pardee Arriving at the brightly painted Meenakshi Temple one evening, I was met with the smell of incense. I didn’t know what to expect as I waited in the temple, with hundreds of people praying around me.

A large gong sounded, reverberating around the temple galleries, and immediately several priests started chanting and stomping to music. They carried the image of the Hindu god Shiva towards the chamber of a statue of Parvati, his consort, where he spends each night. The ceremony happens around 9:30pm each evening.

Recommended by Hannah Phalen Year after year I’m drawn back to India by its spiritual side. I’ll always remember the gentle climb I took through pine trees in the lower foothills of the Himalaya, which opened out to the Kunjapuri Temple and views of the snow-capped peaks in the distance. Arriving in time to witness the sunrise, my guide and I rang the temple bells to let the gods know we were there. We were greeted by the scent of incense as a priest guided us through a blessing. I left with a colorful offering of flowers and candles in hand, which I later floated down the Ganges as part of the evening Aarti ceremony in Rishikesh.

For more information, please contact our India specialists on 1-855-838-6300.

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Recommended by Jason Toms India holds many animals sacred, cows in particular, but the last thing I expected to find in Jaisalmer was a pool of holy catfish. Gadisar Lake is on the outskirts of the city, surrounded by temples and shrines. Each morning, locals congregate at the lakeside to feed the catfish and, for a few rupees, you’re welcome to join in. There are so many fish that the water becomes a writhing mass of whiskered grey bodies fighting for crusts. Catfish are thought to be an incarnation of the Hindu god Vishnu and locals believe that feeding them brings good luck.

Recommended by Niall Causer The setting for Jamal and Latika’s closing dance in Slumdog Millionaire, Victoria Terminus is almost a serene experience once rush hour is over. Joining my guide, we explored the station’s mix of modern and colonial architecture. A traditional bus and a black-and-yellow cab then took us to Chor Bazaar. It’s the place to come for a bewildering array of cannibalised car parts, dusty shop mannequins, ancient gramophones and pre-loved shoes. Our own dhaba wallah (lunchbox distributor) delivered lunch in the park, each served in a personal tiffin box.

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Diary of a trip to CAMBODIA Southeast Asia specialist Mark Robinson returns from his latest trip to Cambodia having found a country with a renewed sense of itself and its past

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Faces of Cambodia The Bayon temple in Angkor Thom, Siem Reap

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CAMBODIA ince my first trip to Cambodia 15 years ago, I’ve been back many times and seen it change. Back then, little infrastructure was in place, street lights in Siem Reap were minimal and the roads were pot-holed. Now the city roads are safer and there’s a vibrancy in the evenings where brightly lit restaurants and markets invite you in to sample something new.

SIEM REAP REVISITED

Having been to Siem Reap five times now, I was looking forward to seeking out new hotels and eateries, perhaps seeing a favored temple from a different angle.

On my recent trip I noticed a surge of visitors, including a new wave of regional travelers. To get the best out of your time here away from the masses, you need access to someone in the know.

Enter my guide, Sinath.

Sinath grew up in a small village just outside of Siem Reap and talks with joy about a childhood exploring the jungle around the temples, hunting tarantulas to sell at the market and rambling among the thousand-year-old ruins. When Englishspeaking travelers first arrived, Sinath worked as a tuk-tuk driver to sharpen up his English before beginning to guide.

Fast-forward several years and there we were, discussing a shared passion for his homeland’s history, heritage and architecture. We decided to explore Angkor Thom, the region’s largest temple site. The plan was to turn what’s usually a 15-minute drive to the temple site into a morning bicycle ride, allowing us to explore the countryside and see fishermen, lotus ponds and street-food sellers along the way, before finishing with Angkor Thom itself.

We stopped to admire the pyramidshaped Baksei Chamkrong temple. I’ve never seen it before, even though it’s tucked just behind a main road. We then cycled over the moat and through the well-known South Gate of Angkor Thom. Rather than following the line of cars, we turned right and cycled up onto the 20-foot-high ramparts, and within minutes the sound of diesel engines was silenced by leaves waving in the morning breeze, bird song and a boatman slapping his oar in the water. You wouldn’t know you were cycling atop an ancient city wall – it’s a solid 16-foot-wide pathway with sky-high trees on the left and the freshwater moat on

Hidden treasure Ta Prohm temple is being reclaimed by the jungle; (below right) Prom, a nun at Ta Prohm, smiles for the camera

the right, with some scrub to stop you going too close to the edge.

On each of the four corners of the city walls is a small temple, overgrown and unused in the soft morning light. They were once used as a place of worship, and in later years were lookout posts. We stopped at one and sat on an 800-year-old rectangular stone, looking out over the moat and lotus fields as a lone crane pecked its way through the reeds.

ARRIVING AT ANGKOR

We continued along the ramparts as the Gate of the Dead came into view. The sun hadn’t quite reached it yet, and the cooler

air and walk down to the entrance made for an eerie arrival. Most visitors enter Angkor Thom at the South or East Gate so this one is rarely used.

We cycled to the drum beat of a local celebration and eventually arrived at Angkor Thom, which was once home to one of the biggest populations of its time.

Like most of this region, it’s now covered with banyan trees stretching for sunlight.

The standout feature of Angkor Thom, for me, is Bayon, a temple built as an ode to Jayavarman VII, where 216 smiling faces adorn the tops of towers with a striking resemblance to Jayavarman himself. The story of his reign can be found on two bas

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reliefs on the outer perimeter, much like a stone Bayeux Tapestry.

Just outside Angkor Thom is Ta Prohm, a temple that’s being suffocated by the jungle. Tall trees use temple towers as their support and, as the years have drifted by, the vines and roots constrict walls, roofs and lintels, in some instances causing irreparable damage. It’s easy to see why it’s one of the most photographed temples at Angkor.

Often overlooked are the people who keep the temples in order and continue to keep these sites photogenic. Nestled inside a stupa, avoiding the sun, I met Prom (pictured), a Buddhist nun who

lives in a neighboring monastery. She comes here every day to sell bracelets to visitors who use her stupa as a walkway from one side of tree-wrapped Ta Prohm to the other. The money she makes goes back into the monastery, helping to maintain the building and buy food. As I bought bracelets from her, she wrapped them around my arm and gave me a blessing.

I’ve been to Angkor Thom numerous times and, for me, this was the most interesting way to experience it. A lessbeaten path changes the way you see a temple. You don’t have to necessarily wander far, you just need to have the right people guiding you.

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KHMER CUISINE

Historically, the cuisine in Thailand and Vietnam has rightly received accolades.

However, it was only on this trip that I sat up and really noticed the creativity of modern Khmer cuisine.

Over the years there have been quality restaurants associated with high-end hotels or French-Cambodian joint ventures in Siem Reap, particularly the seven-dish gastronomic menu at Embassy Restaurant or the Cuisine Wat Damnak’s tasting menu.

These restaurants, among others, have allowed local aspiring chefs to aim for a new level of creativity.

Mie Café is an unassuming wooden Khmer house set back from a side-street, away from the bright lights of downtown.

Chef Pola, who’s worked in Switzerland under a two-Michelin-starred chef, mixes his homeland’s ingredients with European flair and presentation, resulting in a unique take on classic Cambodian cuisine.

Young chefs like this are scattered through Siem Reap. Pou’s Restaurant and Bar is a relaxed local bar that serves exceptional food.

Chef Mork Mongly, still in his 20s, created Pou’s, delivering creative dishes with aplomb – his tasting plate was mouthwatering.

Fine food (clockwise from this) Riverside huts near Kampot; local pepper; La Plantation farm; Kep crab with green Kampot pepper

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CAMBODIA

PHNOM PENH

Leaving Siem Reap, I opted to take the 40-minute flight to the capital, rather than several hours in a car, and seeing the shiny new Vattanac Tower (home to the five-star Rosewood Hotel) from the air sums up Cambodia at the moment.

Though the country has sometime focused on its long – and often troubled – history, it’s clear that Cambodians are now looking to the future.

There seems to be a real sense of pride that the country can be seen to compete with the likes of Thailand and Vietnam again – even the local remork (Cambodian tuk-tuk) drivers are proud of the skyscraper.

And for me, there’s a sense of irony that next door to the newest five-star hotel you have another landmark building – Raffles Le Royal: the old and the new side-by-side.

KAMPOT PEPPER

For the final stop of my trip, I headed towards the coast, to the riverside town of Kampot. It now has a few more guesthouses and restaurants, but it’s still a sleepy backwater. You can trek in Bokor National Park and kayak in the mangrove forests, and I arrived for a

combination of the two, with the addition of exploring the Pepper Trail.

Much has been said in the culinary world of the qualities of Kampot pepper and how different varieties range from lemon notes to a long-lasting firepower.

My palate isn’t adept to the subtleties, but I do always buy a packet to bring home, and I find it adds more depth to a Bolognese. The industry boomed under French rule in the 19th and early 20th centuries and French chefs still swear by its qualities. Today, it’s the Champagne of pepper and, like Champagne, it also has protected status.

I visited one of the pepper farms that’s open to the public, where you can head out to see the vines and the growing process, before wandering back to an open-air kitchen to indulge in a spot of cooking using Kampot pepper.

Of course, you get to eat the fruits of your labor – they’ve restored a traditional teak Khmer house where you can enjoy a pepper tasting. Dishes range from black pepper beef to green pepper Kep crab. If you want to see some of Cambodia’s countryside and indulge in the finest pepper, then I cannot recommend this part of the country highly enough.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time from Los Angeles to Siem Reap, via Hong Kong, is around 19 hours.

When to go: October through to March is the best time to travel, with warm, dry weather.

Get me there: A 15-day tailor-made trip taking in Siem Reap, Battambang, Phnom Penh, Kampot and Koh Rong starts from $4,275pp. For more information, please call one of our Cambodia specialists on 1-855-838-2160.

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HEAD TO HEAD

PATAGONIA: CHILE

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Straddling both Chile and Argentina, Patagonia is one of the world’s most

atagonia is vast, untamed and beautiful. Covering roughly 400,000 square miles at the end of the Earth, the region spans both Chile and Argentina and is filled with towering mountains, bluetinged glaciers, emerald-green lakes, raging rivers, subpolar forests and ice-carved fjords.

Within this epic wilderness there are outposts that make taking it all in feasible: the range of accommodation within Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park and, on the other side of the border, the small town of El Chaltén, Argentina. But which to choose?

TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK, CHILE

By Emma Fritz While there are many different regions and landscapes within Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park is probably the most well known. The park has been heavily developed for visitors in the last 15 years.

This means that hiking trails are wellmarked and safe, and there’s a variety of accommodation, from luxury lodges to Mongolian yurts and simple B&Bs, as well as traditional camping at designated campsites.

You can visit Torres virtually all year round. The busiest season is from

December to February; however, you can access most hiking trails from October to April. May to September is winter in Patagonia, but even then, visiting isn’t impossible; although daylight is limited, only a handful of hotels are open and the weather overall will be colder, but the park’s habitual wind dies down. Plus, there’s something immensely special about seeing so few fellow visitors.

Getting there is relatively easy, too: the port towns of Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas are your entry points, and both have direct flights from Santiago multiple times per day. But make no mistake, Torres remains a wilderness. The park is home to saw-toothed mountains, glaciers, valleys, meltwater lakes, rivers, streams, pampas, old-growth forest and some of the most indecisive weather on Earth.

There’s a Patagonian saying: ‘If you don’t like the weather, wait ten minutes.’ Rain is to be expected at any time of year, but if you dress in layers, a waterproof jacket and sturdy hiking boots, you can cope with whatever Torres throws at you.

The hiking is truly rewarding here. The demanding four-night W trek is one of the park’s calling cards, and it culminates in a sharp ascent to see the three granite peaks of the Paine Massif. The French Valley trek, meanwhile, takes you over a boulderstrewn moraine and offers the tantalizing chance to see glaciers calving (and possibly an avalanche or two). Then there are shorter walks to suit all abilities.

If you’re not a hiker, don’t be deterred.

There are many ways to experience the park’s landscapes: on horseback, by kayak and on board a boat. It’s also a good place to spot mountain wildlife. The very lucky few might spot a puma, but it’s very common to see guanacos (pictured), South Andean deer, condors and up to 115 species of bird.

Get me there: A 12-day tailor-made trip, including the Atacama Desert, Chiloe Island, the Chilean Lake District and Torres del Paine, starts from $7,100pp. For more information, call Emma or our Chile specialists on 1-855-838-8640.

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epic wildernesses – but which side of the border to experience it from?

EL CHALTÉN, ARGENTINA

By Aliza Gordon Edged with peaks that have entered into modern mountaineering folklore, El Chaltén is Argentina’s youngest town, founded just 33 years ago when the country sought to stake its claim on the hinterland of Patagonia. The word ‘chaltén’ is borrowed from the language of the area’s indigenous Tehuelche people and means ‘smoking mountain’ – a reference to the moody, cloud-covered summit of Mount Fitz Roy that dominates the area.

El Chaltén maintains the feel of a frontier-like outpost while being a very convenient base for hiking in the surrounding Los Glaciares National Park – less well-known than Torres del Paine National Park on the other side of the border, and therefore usually less busy.

Being based in a town rather than a remote lodge or hotel has other benefits, too; there are restaurants and bars a short walk away, plus trailheads often start near the town center and are very well-marked, making them accessible and easy to explore independently. I also find that, because the town is still considered an up-andcoming destination, trips here often offer good value for money.

Getting to El Chaltén is now easier than ever, with a new paved road that connects the town to the much bigger settlement of El Calafate – a comparatively brief two-and-a-half hour drive away (either by bus, hire car or private transfer).

Although El Chaltén is, admittedly, rather sleepy during May to October, the town fills up during the spring and summer months, particularly from December to February, when the weather is at its finest and the trails around

Los Glaciares National Park are at their most accessible. Booking ahead is certainly recommended but, even in the summertime, you’re still unlikely to encounter large crowds.

Hiking-wise, there are many options to choose from. The most popular trail to explore is Laguna de los Tres, a challenging full-day hike that offers iconic views of Mount Fitz Roy and the witch’s hat of Cerro Torre. It ends with a lookout point over a surreal blue lagoon – and if you carry on ten minutes more, you will come to another lagoon, Laguna Sucia, and an impressive perspective over the massif and its hanging glaciers.

Then there’s the trail around Lago de Desierto, which is about 40 minutes outside the town. This hike terminates with fantastic views of a melting glacier and its meltwater lake. I also like the easy-to-moderate trail to the Condores viewpoint, which offers panoramas over the surrounding mountainscapes.

Get me there: A 13-day tailor-made trip, including Buenos Aires, Iguazú Falls, the Argentine Lake District and El Chaltén, starts from $5,800pp. For more information, contact Aliza or one of our Argentina specialists on 1-855-838-8630.

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“I’VE BEEN A TOUR GUIDE FOR A LONG TIME, BUT THIS WAS SOMETHING SPECIAL” When Damon and Carole took a trip to Namibia, little did they know they’d meet a new friend in their tour guide, Benjamin – let alone invite him home to share a glimpse of their lives in Minnesota

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n April 26th, Audley clients Damon and Carole Sierk wrote to the immigration office in Nairobi, Kenya. They were determined to help their guide and new friend, Benjamin, obtain a visa to visit them in the United States.

In this letter, they wrote: ‘In February of 2018 we were on a threeweek safari in Kenya and Tanzania. One of our stops was at a camp on the Masai Mara, operated by the Asilia Co. We were met at the airstrip by Benjamin and he was to be our driver and guide for the next three days.

When we shook hands at the airstrip, an instant bond formed between us. His intellect and knowledge of the area made our stay on the Masai Mara a wonderful memory.

Through our many conversations, Benjamin informed us that he had never been on an airplane or out of Kenya. This information planted an idea in my mind, and now to reciprocate all that Benjamin gave us, we would like to invite him to come to the United States, and spend time with us in Northern Minnesota by a lake surrounded by tall trees.’

Receiving a visa for travel from Kenya to the United States is no easy feat, but the Sierks were determined to share their home with

Benjamin, just as Benjamin had shared his with them. They would be joined for two days by Audley Country Specialist Katie, who planned the Sierks’ initial trip to Kenya.

BATTLING THE RED TAPE

Three months after the initial application was submitted, and accompanied by an additional letter sent by Senator Chuck Grassley of Sioux County, Iowa, Benjamin was presented with a five-year travel visa to the United States.

Approval meant the continuation of a friendship that would extend beyond Africa, all the way to the Lake District of Minnesota.

Friendship is hard to explain but for Damon it was simple: “I instinctively knew that we got along. He has a wonderful sense of humor, and from the moment we met at the airport and he joked that our forty-minute transfer to camp would last four hours, I knew he was someone I wanted to know better.”

Benjamin’s journey to Bemidji, Minnesota, began five days before he arrived at the home

“DAMON AND CAROLE WERE WILLING TO KNOW MY HEART AND I WAS READY TO SHARE WITH THEM AS MUCH AS I COULD” Benjamin Kisemei

of Carole and Damon. As Benjamin said, “You start a journey with one step forward,” and so he began his travels to America, walking six miles from the lodge to his village.

Once there, he waited for a motorbike, which took him two hours to the nearest paved road and then onward another few hours to the closest city. He waited in the city for two days where he picked up travel money that the Sierks had sent, and bought supplies for the

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TRAVELERS’ TALES FRIENDS REUNITED

Chocks away (clockwise from this) Benjamin prepares for a flight; Damon, Carole and Benjamin in Minnesota; Benjamin dons traditionl dress to meet the locals

trip, careful to pack a carry-on bag that only contained one change of clothes in order to take every precaution possible to not raise any alarm at immigration. It was then a three-hour journey in a mini bus to Nairobi, where Benjamin’s flight departed from.

BOARDING THE PLANE

Benjamin arrived at the airport 12 hours early to ensure that he didn’t miss his first flight to Amsterdam. The flight was the first of his life but instead of feeling frightened he simply looked around and noticed that nobody else looked alarmed as the plane flew higher above Kenya and so he relaxed as well.

For eight hours Benjamin watched the navigation screen on the seat back in front of him; he was fascinated by the distance and speed at which he was soaring over the world.

As he watched, he could not help but marvel at the distance that his clients regularly travel to see the bush in Kenya.

Once in Minneapolis, a mere hour-long flight away from Bemidji, he was stopped by immigration. He was questioned and asked to present the home address of the Sierks.

Without the address on hand, he missed his connecting flight due to further questioning and had to spend an additional twelve hours in an airport hotel. Still, he didn’t sleep.

“If I had to describe Benjamin in one word, it would be dignified” said Carole. This composure was crucial in Benjamin’s successful journey to the Sierks’ home.

Just as Damon and Carole opened their home to Benjamin, it was this initial openness about Benjamin that they were equally drawn to. While in Kenya, Damon and Carole stayed at Asilia Africa’s Naboisho Camp for three nights, the property where Benjamin has worked for the past eight years of his 14-year career.

During their time together, Benjamin opened up beyond the confines of his job; he spoke about his childhood, describing the meals of boiled tree bark, cow’s milk, and blood that were only available every third day, with matter-of-fact honesty. He described a life where acquiring food meant stalking a lion until it made a catch, and then, in a group, spreading out their robes as wide as possible in order to steal the catch.

The stark contrast of their backgrounds was not a topic that they skirted around.

The two talked openly about growing up with different types of abundance, resources, and different financial realities.

Just as the Sierks were fascinated by the lions on the Masai Mara, so was Benjamin taken by the array of fresh and potable water in Bemidji.

The more one gets to know both Damon and his wife, Carole, it becomes quickly evident that, despite the seemingly grand gesture of hosting Benjamin in their home, the emphasis of their time together was on friends seeing each other again.

In order to celebrate the reunion, Carole and Damon planned a party in order to introduce Benjamin to their friends and neighbors from the lake association. It was a no-frills event where cookies and lemonade were served, a simple backdrop for good conversation, connection, and the chance for Benjamin to talk about his life in Kenya. The party was not organized to wow people, it was simply an opportunity to bring them together, making for a truly inspiring moment.

Benjamin stayed with Damon and Carole for ten days in Minnesota where they took an aerial tour over the lakes in a small plane, enjoyed time out on their boats, and tried both fishing and swimming. Both agree that the trip was simply another milestone in their friendship as they plan to stay in contact via email. And with a five year visa in Benjamin’s pocket, all are hoping that they can meet again in Minnesota on the beautiful lake surrounded by tall trees.

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WINE REGIONS OF

EUROPE

Europe is the home of great wine, but it pays to learn about it first. Tastings and tours of the vineyards of Spain, France, Italy and Portugal reward with memorable flavors and stories‌

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Wine country Gazing across the cityscape view of Saint Emilion village in the famous wine region of Bordeaux, France

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EUROPE

“Rioja is a region of stark contrasts. Vines have been cultivated here since Roman times, and if you go up into towns like Laguardia, you can still see rocks riddled with aging cellars.”

ITALY Take it easy in Piedmont Situated in northern Italy, close to the France and Swiss borders, Piedmont is less renowned than Tuscany but produces some of Italy’s best wines. Against a backdrop of the Alps, the region offers seemingly endless vineyards interspersed with small medieval villages. That’s why, when I visit, I prefer to explore with a private driver and expert wine guide.

The Langhe and Roero regions are protected by UNESCO both for their outstanding landscapes and for the fine wines produced by the area’s small vineyards. Many of those wineries are family-run, and you can tour the vineyard with a member of the family before sampling some of their wines.

When I’m in Piedmont, I always make a point to seek out the region’s two most popular wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, which are often referred to as the king and queen of wines.

While there, I suggest heading to the town of Barolo to spend time in the WIMU, an interactive wine museum that explores the history and culture of wine. Just a short drive from here, you’ll also find the medieval town of Pollenzo. I come here for the Wine Bank. Located within the same complex as a Slow Food hotel and the University of Gastronomic Sciences, the Wine Bank is like a museum that holds a wide selection of Italian wines. It has a shop where you can buy bottles at reasonable prices as well as literature dedicated to wine and food.

Many of the area’s hotels also have their own extensive wine cellars or produce their own wine. The luxury Relais San Maurizio has its own spa treatment room dedicated to vinotherapy (wine therapies).

Relax in a wine whirlpool or take a sauna in a giant restored barrel from the late 1800s. Then, after a day’s exploration, finish with dinner in one of the many Michelinstarred restaurants in the area.

SPAIN Wine and architecture in the Rioja Arguably one of Spain’s most recognizable wines, Rioja is known the world over for its dominant cherry flavors, achieved through the expert blend of tempranillo (Spain’s most prominent indigenous grape variety) and garnacha, along with the occasional addition of mazuelo and graciano. The wine is produced from vineyards in the area surrounding the Oja River.

This area is one of stark contrasts.

Vines have been cultivated here since Roman times, and if you go up into towns like Laguardia, you can still see rocks that are riddled with aging cellars. The Moors never reached this far north, so the historic towns have a much more northern European medieval style than those in the southern areas, with wooden timber-frame houses and gothic churches.

Excitingly though, the Rioja wine region is one that is not stuck in the past and many wineries here are embracing Spain’s passion for

pushing architectural boundaries and styling themselves not only as wine producters but as modern works of art. Perhaps most arresting is Hotel Marques de Riscal, an ostentatious confection of titanium ribbons, designed for the eponymous wine label on the grounds of the eponymous 150-year-old wine estate. Designed

by Frank Gehry, who also masterminded the Guggenheim Museum, the purple, silver and gold curves are said to represent different parts of a wine bottle.

Alternatively, you can visit the Rafael López de Heredia Tondonia Winery, where you’ll find a striking pavilion designed by the flamboyant architect Zaha Hadid. An angular, bright, ultra-modern space, its outline is intended to resemble an old-fashioned decanter. Sleek and swooping, it serves as a luminous counterpoint to the nearby wine gallery, which dates from 1890 and has a far more traditional style.

A short drive to the east, one of our favorite places to stay is the architect-owned and designed Hotel Viura. Composed of a series of precarious-looking superimposed cubes, the property is filled with bold design features from polished concrete floors to angled walls, driftwood sculptures and original artwork. Each of the 33 rooms has been individually designed with edgy, contemporary decor featuring and gives the feeling of staying in an art gallery while at the same time having the beautiful Rioja wine region right on the doorstep.

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a. Harvesting a red wine grape in Piedmont b. Cellar tours are a great way to discover new wines c. Wandering the glorious vineyards of Langhe d. Sampling wine from a dolcetto grape e. Looking over the vineyards of Piedmont beneath a mountainous backdrop f. A vineyard at sunset g. The village and fields of Briones h. A Spanish cellar filled with wine barrels i. The Frank Gehrydesigned Hotel Marques de Riscal

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EUROPE WINE BOX Barolo: Due to its tannic properties, Barolo is best enjoyed with red meat such as veal, rabbit, wild boar and beef. It also complements strong cheeses such as Parmigiano and pecorino.

Moscato d’Asti: The light, sweet taste of moscato d’Asti goes well with any light deserts, such as fruit tarts or sponge cakes, as well as biscuits and fruits.

Rioja: This wine’s robust flavor makes it a great addition to pair with lamb and pork dishes or those with red pepper or saffron seasonings.

Champagne: The light and refined palate along with its uniquely small bubbles is

perfectly paired with fresh oysters and a splash of lemon juice or finely chopped shallots in white wine vinegar.

Cava: An ideal accompaniment to many of Spain’s traditional tapas, as well as appetizers such as nuts, cheese and jamón.

We suggest trying it with a Spanish tortilla (omelet) or with roasted artichokes.

Port: Normally served as an after-dinner drink, port goes very well with dark chocolate. The sweet berry notes help to offset the bitter, acidic and fruity element of the chocolate.

Vihno verde: With its distinctive, razor-sharp acidity, this wine pairs well with seafood. It’s ideal for a hot summer’s day.

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a. Relaxing poolside at Quinta do Vallado, Regua, Portugal b. Cruising the waters of the Douro Valley c. Getting ready to cycle through the French vineyards d. Red wine grapes in the late autumn e. Spa at the Six Senses Douro Valley, Lemego f. The centuries-old terraces of the Douro g. Cycling through the Saint-Emilion vineyards h. A sleepy village in the Saint-Émilion region i. Horses enjoying the Saint-Emilion vineyards

Cruise the port vineyards of the Douro Valley The Douro Valley is one of Portugal’s most important wine-producing areas, most notable for its historic production of port. Located in the north on the country, the Douro River winds its way via the steeply sided valley on its way to Porto.

Port owes much of its growth to the animosity between France and Britain during the 18th century.

Unable to import wine from France, British merchants looked to Portugal for a new source of tipple. A lucrative trade emerged as wine was shipped down the Douro River to the port houses in Porto’s riverfront Vila Nova de Gaia district where it was aged in preparation for its export overseas. As part of this preparation and to help preserve the wine on the journey to Britain, it was spiked with brandy, creating the rich sweet wine that we know today.

Most of the great port houses are still located in Vila Nova de Gaia, directly across the river from downtown Porto. Here you can tour the various wine cellars that line the river, such as Cálem or Graham’s.

If you have more time, you can also travel into the Douro Valley itself and explore picturesque vineyards.

The Douro lazily snakes its way through the steep-sided Schist hills of northern Portugal. The walls of the valley are striped with undulating rows of terraces, carved by hand over thousands of years. It is one of the oldest protected wine regions in

Europe, established by the Marquis de Pombal in 1756 to protect the area’s port wine production. Today, it has earned UNESCO World Heritage Site status as a ‘cultural landscape of outstanding beauty.’

The banks of the valley are dotted with whitewashed quintas (historic wine estates), many of which have begun to diversify and now produce a selection of high quality red and white wines as well as port. You can visit the estates as part of a private tasting tour or simply admire the sun-drenched scenery on a private lunch cruise along the river.

FRANCE Cycling and winery tours in Saint-Émilion The vineyards around the medieval town of Saint-Émilion primarily grow merlot and cabernet franc grapes, taking advantage of the hilly landscape to give the vines more

exposure to the sun. Irrigating these vines is illegal in order to protect the delicate ecosystem that supports their growth. The limestone rocks and clay soil help to regulate the sun’s heat, while trees and flowers provide shade, protection from the elements and natural pesticides.

Mikael, my guide, explained all of this to me as we cycled around the vineyards and through little sleepy villages. We eventually arrived at a small family-owned chateau, which Mikael’s been visiting for years. He explained that this chateau and its vines have been owned for 14 generations – three of which still live here and work the land today.

For a wine to be considered Grand Cru Classe or a Premier Grand Cru Classe, the rules in France are very strict and you can’t use certain machines. In order to comply, many chateaux have returned to using horse-drawn plows in between the vines – they don’t damage the soil as much as large tractors do.

I got a glimpse of this old-is-new tradition following a visit to the vinification room and limestone cellars. We turned a corner on our bikes and Mikael jumped off and waved for me to follow, then just as I reached him, four enormous horses appeared through the narrow vines, clopping along easily, barely tired from their efforts or the bright sun beating down on their backs.

For more information on planning a trip to any of these key wine regions, contact our Europe team on 1-855-787-6329.

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Updates from our experts’ recent travels in Namibia, India, Japan and the UK‌

KYUSHU, JAPAN

By Miles McAlpin One of the highlights of my trip to Japan was my visit to Takachiho Gorge on the southern island of Kyushu. The base of the gorge can be reached by car, but we opted to hike down from the Takachiho Shrine. The walk is under a mile, down hundreds of steps that descend through silent cedar forest. As the trees part, you are left to stare at the sun-lit falls above and the deep aquamarine water below.

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GET INSPIRED

LIVERPOOL, UK

By Max Bitter “One of my highlights of Liverpool was Ian’s day tour. Driving in a cab painted to look like Lennon’s rainbow Rolls-Royce, this Beatles devotee took us to sites like Strawberry Fields and each Beatle’s childhood home. He even showed us where McCartney and James Corden autographed the Penny Lane sign while filming ‘Carpool Karaoke’ just a few weeks prior – during one of Ian’s tours!”

MADURAI, INDIA

By Zac Pardee Wandering through the bustling corridors of Madurai’s flower market, I was taken aback by the city’s vibrant energy as the scent of rose petals, cardamom and lemongrass lingered across the stalls. Then, as we made our way to Meenakshi, Tamil Nadu’s famous pilgrimage site, a sea of people slowly parted to reveal the temple. Magical.

ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK, NAMIBIA

By Anna Springer “After a thrilling safari through Etosha National Park, our guide found the ideal place to stop and watch the sunset with a gin and tonic. He told stories about his time in the bush, and as the sky changed from hues of purple to a deep red, I could hear the sound of the bush all around me. It was then that I felt the power of Africa running through my veins.”

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Elephant encounters Hwange National Park is home to one of the largest elephant populations in Africa

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48 Hours in...

HWANGE NATIONAL PARK

Experience the elephant, lion and birdlife of Zimbabwe while enjoying the relaxing charms of Bomani Tented Lodge WORDS BY LUKE ROGERS

DAY 1 5:30am

Nature’s canvas Bomani Tented Lodge is set among remarkable scenery

A gentle voice will call ‘knock knock’ outside your tent before a campfire-cooked breakfast.

On your way through camp, be sure to check for footprints from overnight visitors; often elephant, lion and hyena spoor can be seen.

6am Head out on an early morning game drive in an open 4x4 vehicle. It’s likely to be chilly first thing, so it’s best to wear an extra layer.

Bomani Tented Lodge is situated just outside Hwange’s boundary, so you’ll pass through the gate before exploring Ngamo Plains – a vast open plain inhabited by wildebeest, elephant, zebra, impala, giraffe and a range of birdlife. Your game drive will meander past waterholes, and you’ll stop beneath the shade of an acacia tree for morning coffee and cake.

10am Return to camp for a hearty, healthy brunch then the middle of the day is yours. A small plunge pool is surrounded by loungers looking out over the nearby waterhole, so there’s plenty of opportunities for spotting wildlife.

2pm The private concession around Bomani is also home to a local community, and you can

visit the village, school and clinic. By staying at this camp, you’re directly contributing towards some fantastic projects that have already benefitted the community.

4pm Enjoy an early evening game drive in the park, stopping for a drink by a waterhole. As darkness falls, your guide will use a spotlight to see if they can spot any nocturnal wildlife.

Regular sightings include civet cats, porcupines, hyena, genets and nightjars.

SPECIALISTS’ TOP TIPS The winter months in Hwange (June to August) can get cold in the evenings and early mornings, so take layers. Fortunately, hot water bottles will be placed in your bed while you’re having dinner. Danielle Fraser

7pm

For close-up photos from the ‘look-up’ hide, you’ll need a zoom lens and something soft to lean your camera on. Tony Macrae

Dinner is generally served alfresco and could be a braai (barbecue) of local meats accompanied by vegetables, salads and traditional Zimbabwean dishes. After dinner, you can sit around the campfire and identify spectacular constellations.

Transfer to and from Bomani using the Elephant Express – an open-sided, single-carriage train that stops for animal sightings; recent encounters have included wild dog and lion on the tracks. Roseanna Cole AUDLEY TRAVELER | 41

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Wildlife wonders A stay in Hwange National Park can bring visitors face to face with giraffe, lion, zebra and cheetah

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HWANGE NATIONAL PARK

DAY 2 6am Once the sun is up, I recommend joining your guide on a short walking safari. As you walk through open areas of the private concession, your guide will tell you about the smaller details of the bush that are often overlooked in a vehicle. You might learn how to identify animal tracks and droppings, hear about the cultural and medicinal significance of various plants, and listen to stories of the history of Hwange.

10am 2pm After a short break back at camp, head back into the park with a picnic lunch and enjoy a couple of hours in the underground ‘look-up’ hide. This is a sunken container complete with comfortable benches, a flush toilet and close-up views of a waterhole.

During the heat of the day, it’s a popular spot with elephant in particular. With a zoom lens, you can take close-up photographs of their delicate trunks splashing, as well as young elephant playing in the mud.

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Flight information: Flight time is approximately 15 hours to Johannesburg from New York, followed by a two-hour flight to Victoria Falls.

When to go: Hwange is open for visitors year round, though experiences differ between the wet and dry seasons. For the best game viewing, visit between June and November.

Get me there: A ten-day tailor-made trip to Zimbabwe, including time in Hwange National Park, starts from $5,600pp. We recommend spending time at Victoria Falls before your safari and finishing on the banks of the Zambezi River.

For more information, please call Luke or our Zimbabwe safari specialists on 1-855-838-0590.

A more unusual experience in this region is a horse-riding safari. Based on the community land, where the scenery is open grassland, rides are available to all abilities and led by experienced guides and trackers.

Once you’ve been paired up with a horse, you’ll wander past farmland and homesteads, among small trees and around waterholes filled with lily pads.

While it’s unlikely that you’ll see larger animals, birdlife is plentiful and plains

game, such as antelope and zebra, don’t mind being in close proximity to horses.

You can stop for a drink by a waterhole, providing another opportunity to see wildlife coming to drink.

5pm Back in camp, enjoy a sundowner cocktail overlooking the waterhole (pictured above) before dinner under the stars. A final game drive leaves camp after dinner in search of big cats hunting under the cover of darkness.

Under canvas Tented accommodation at Bomani Tented Lodge; (top) its pool overlooks the nearby waterhole

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TRAVELERS’TALES SHARE YOUR STORIES AT WWW.AUDLEYTRAVEL.COM/US/SHARE

Happy fisherman Ian lands his prize in the rivers of New Zealand

NEW ZEALAND

Ian and Dianne Wynn traveled to New Zealand with Audley

M

y wife is very understanding. We often do many things together while other activities, namely my fly fishing, is a solo activity. (“You want me to stand about in cold water and then wave a rod about? I will stick to my sewing, thank you.”). Therefore, a trip to New Zealand was the perfect compromise, a place where I could fish for wild brown trout, and while doing so Dianne could spend her time walking and taking photos.

The trip would, of course, focus on the sights and experiences of this wonderful country. Specific areas were shortlisted, such

as visiting Napier and Hastings on the North Island, both famed for their Art Deco architecture – a particular love of Dianne’s.

We planned to walk the Tongariro Crossing for the sheer excitement and challenge; plus we’d take a heli-hike, so we could walk on the Franz Josef Glacier and see the ice caves.

Oh, and did I mention the fishing? Some was planned on both the North Island and then a guided day on the South Island.

NORTH ISLAND

We started our trip with the Tongariro trek, only setting out the next day for sightseeing

and fishing. After a good breakfast we headed into Turangi, a small, sleepy and friendly town in the south west corner of the lake.

So we headed up the Tongariro River and explored the various pools. I started on the far bank as there was good space to work a 100-foot-long bend in the river, which provided a variety of opportunities for drifting a heavy fly through the current.

While I was attempting to hook into anything that would look at the variety of flies I had attached to my line, my wife had been exploring the local area and taking photographs. So at the end of the day, we

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TRAVELERS’ TALES

had both enjoyed ourselves, Dianne’s results seem to have been more productive than mine but I had learned a lot about the section of the river and tomorrow was another day – I would be back.

The next day dawned with clear blue skies and warm sunshine, paradise found as we looked out from our accommodation across Lake Taupo. Back out we went, crossing back across to the slower side of the bend; I fancied that there would be a fish or two in this water.

Same fly, same technique. Soon enough, another lovely rainbow fish obliged and rose to take the cicada. This time, not only had Dianne returned from her wanderings but she had managed to video the catch – proof that I had achieved my goal.

SOUTH ISLAND

Next was the South Island. Wine tasting and visits to national parks were all on the agenda, but my real treat was about to begin.

I was to fish; Dianne would come along and enjoy the scenery, read a book while sitting on the bank, and – when and if I got into a fish – take a picture or two.

Our guide John’s instructions were simple: “Stay behind me as I will scout the river and then call you up when I find the fish.” After wading through deep water and fighting through river reeds John found some fish holding up in a side stream to the main flow. I quickly caught

six, but could I make seven – one for each day of the week?

John was on top of the bank and told me he’d seen the one that I had come to connect w ith. Every bit the fish of a lifetime, he estimated it to be around the 10lb mark.

Time seemed to slow to a snail’s pace as my fly dead-drifted down the edge of the river close to the bank towards the fish. A huge head appeared and gulped down the fly – ‘fish on’ and was this some fish.

Off the fish went into the fast and deep water, the line’s resistance simply making him more annoyed. A schoolboy error then took place: running downstream was not an option with me having already chanced my luck by wading close to the fast moving main flow of water just a couple of feet away.

Instead of increasing the drag I used my hand as a brake on the rim of the reel, the pain this would cause would have been worth it to get this fish to the net. But my hand then caught the winding arm and – ping. ‘Fish off’.

Deflated and angry at making such an error, I climbed the bank and we made our way back to the road reflecting upon what was a fantastic day. Yes, I had failed at the final hurdle but, in real terms, the success and elation of sight fishing for wild brownies in gin-clear water in New Zealand had become a reality. A story to be told was safely in the memory banks… and on the memory card in the camera, too.

The water’s edge Dianne and Ian on the beach in New Zealand

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Walk this way A tour of Zambia’s National Parks on foot brought Jan and Mike (right) close to birdlife, lion, flora and elephant

ZAMBIA

Jan Pester and Mike Widdis traveled to Zambia with Audley

“I

t could be impala,” I ventured, “or perhaps kudu.”

“Well, it’s not elephant or hippo,” said my husband, not very helpfully. The two of us, together with Joseph, our guide, and Goodfellow, our ranger, were standing looking at a pile of dung. Joseph gurgled with laughter.

“Elephant poo is massive – and hippo!

Do you know about hippo?” We shook our heads. I hadn’t expected to be engaging in an early-morning conversation about dung.

We’d gone to Zambia for a safari in three of its national parks, staying in three different safari camps. Our second camp, Luwi, was very simple – it had just five thatch-and-reed huts, which were rebuilt by hand every year after the rains. We ate

outside under the trees by a small thatched bar and an even smaller ‘kitchen’, which nevertheless managed to provide great meals.

An ‘animal highway’ ran across the plain right in front of camp, and we watched families of elephant wander past during the day on their way to the nearby lagoon.

A HIPPO’S TALE

Activities here focused on walking safaris, and it had been with a degree of trepidation that we’d set off on our first walk. After a 5:15am wake-up call and a breakfast of coffee, toast and eggs by an open fire beside the river, we left camp at 6am. Joseph led us in single file, while Goodfellow brought up the rear – no loud talking, which would disturb the animals and birds. We stopped whenever we came

across something interesting, so Joseph could tell us more about it, or whenever we wanted to ask a question. It was far from the fierce variety of trekking that I’d been fearing.

“Let me tell you about the hippo,” continued Joseph. “You need to understand that God was tired when he created him. It was his last day, and he didn’t have much material left. So he put together what he had and made it into a clumpy shape with a big ugly head and dumpy legs – and told the hippo he had to live in Africa.”

“But it’s so hot there,” said the hippo.

“Can we at least sit in the water?” God considered this but decided not.

“Look, I’ve made the rivers and put the fish in and we don’t want them eaten by you. So, no, you can’t sit in the water.”

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TRAVELERS’ TALES

“But what if we go down to the water at dawn and then sit there until dusk. When we leave, we’ll open our mouths wide, so you can see there’s no fish in there. Then, when we go back on land and relieve ourselves, we’ll scatter the dung far and wide so you can see again that no fish have been eaten.”

“OK,” said God. “It’s a deal.”

“And to this day,” said Joseph, “hippo leave the water at dusk, yawn widely and clomp inland along their hippo highways.”

WALKING THE HIGHWAY

Our early start meant that the temperature, which could rise over 85F around midday, was cool when we started, and pleasantly hot when we finished: it was the other way around in the afternoons.

Apart from becoming dung aficionados, we experienced so much that we’d never have seen sitting in a 4x4. We walked on a hippo highway, investigated termite mounds and examined the bark of trees used by traditional healers to whom rural villagers still turn.

We even watched two carmine bee-eaters (pictured) – surely the most beautiful birds in the world – as they rested on a thorn tree before flying back to their nests in the steep, sandy riverbank. And, our guide had more time to talk with us about rural life in Zambia.

During our walks, we felt so much more a part of Zambia: we were as close to nature as we could possibly get, and could take time to watch and listen, and to start to understand.

In contrast, our game drives in 4x4s were an altogether different experience.

They were at a far quicker pace, and although we saw many animals, we were unable to approach them on foot. On one drive, we saw a lion and his cubs sprawled out in the shade of a tree.

At night, lit by our 4x4’s headlights and torches, we encountered a leopard, enjoying his meal amid the safety of the branches as a hungry hyena sat expectantly below. In a canoe, we glided quietly past a herd of elephant enjoying a cooling dip in the river. And, from our boat on the Zambezi, we at last caught sight of an elusive Cape buffalo on the riverbank.

But, unexpectedly, it was our walking safaris that made our Zambian trip so special and so memorable. And, in the end, we’ll never forget the story of the hippo.

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INTERVIEW

Fully focused Biologist and filmmaker Chadden; (inset) filming emperor penguins for Frozen Planet

In conversation with...

CHADDEN HUNTER Wildlife biologist and filmmaker Chadden Hunter has worked on documentaries such as Planet Earth II and Frozen Planet – he talks to us about his passion for wildlife and travel Where did your interest in travel begin?

I was born into a rather nomadic family in a remote corner of the Australian desert. My father was an exploration geologist, so I lived in places as diverse as Iran and Arizona.

How did you get into filmmaking?

Growing up, all I wanted to do was share my love of nature with others, so I pursued a career in academia. While completing my PhD on gelada baboons in Ethiopia, I realized my research was doing little to change public perception. Farmers considered them pests and petitioned the government to cull them, so I snuck onto an Ethiopian chat show. The response was great and prevented the cull. The next

year, Sir David Attenborough and his crew filmed my monkeys for the Life of Mammals. My drift into wildlife filmmaking began.

penguins ascending from the depths. They had never seen humans before and came closer to check me out.

What has been the most Can you tell us about your memorable moment of upcoming projects? your career?

I’m working on the next One of the most magical Attenborough series for the adventures was scuba BBC Natural History diving under Unit. I just got back TRAVEL Antarctic sea ice for from the Amazon HIGHLIGHT Frozen Planet. We and Alaska. We’ve “Southeast Asia has fascinating cultures side- been filming in drilled a manhole by-side with colorful through six feet of some amazing wildlife and delicious ice and descended locati ons and it will food.” into a world that felt be ready to show in like another planet. late 2019.

With visibility 650 feet in gin-clear water, I felt like we Where else would you like were floating in space. I started to visit? seeing what I thought were I’m fascinated by Tibet and the particles in the water. As they got vibrancy of its Buddhism, set bigger I saw they were emperor against a Himalaya backdrop.

What’s something that you can never travel without?

I’m a bit of a coffee addict, so I never travel without a thermos. I can’t count how many places I’ve been, from the top of a mountain to Angkor Wat, when I’ve pulled out a steaming hot drink and made the travelers around me jealous.

Do you have any advice on how to travel responsibly?

If you see travel companies doing good things – like reducing plastic or supporting a local women’s cooperative – get on social media and support them. Corporations are the big players, so encourage those making ethical business decisions by writing them a letter or tagging them on Twitter.

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Q&A

ASK THE EXPERT...

CHINA

Our experienced specialist, Cheryl, debunks the myths about traveling to China and lets you know what to expect on your first trip

Q A

CHINA SPECIALIST

What’s the public transport like?

China prides itself on efficient, clean and increasingly high-tech public transport. The high-speed intercity trains, for example, are a dream to travel on, while the subway systems in Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong are convenient and user-friendly.

On both the subway and intercity trains, you’re obliged to put your belongings through an airport-style scanner before descending to the tracks.

Q A

Are there Westernstyle bathrooms in China?

Like many places in Asia, squat toilets are common in China, but you’ll find Western-style toilets almost everywhere, including the high-speed trains. The type of toilet is sometimes depicted on the cubicle door, and it’s a good idea to bring your own toilet paper. Unless you’re very comfortable with sharing your personal space, I’d recommend avoiding the public bathrooms in Beijing’s hutongs (narrow streets of traditional courtyard housing).

Q A

What can I expect from China’s cities in terms of cleanliness?

Streets are swept and there’s not a culture of littering. In fact, China’s cities are dotted with manicured

Cheryl Saunders

if you’re interested in trying new foods but not too much of any one thing, that it’s customary in China to order several dishes and share them.

Q A

parks and green spaces. You may see people wearing face masks to avoid spreading germs and to combat the effects of pollution.

Q A

Is the cuisine like Chinese food in Europe and the US? No – but in a good way.

It’s much better.

Ingredients are fresh, tastes are more subtle and complex, and the diversity is staggering.

Most of the Chinese food you find in the West is derived from the Cantonese school of cooking. In China, you’re exposed to a gamut of regional cuisines, from fragrantly spiced Sichuan dishes, to Shanghainese xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) containing a rich, meaty broth.

China does have dishes which, to Western eyes, can

seem overwhelming. Offal, for example, is widely eaten. But there are also lots of everyday dishes that are delicious and ubiquitous. You’ll find a choice of dumplings, noodles, soups, hotpots, braised and barbecued meats, fish stews, tofu and bean curd, and plates of steamed or stir-fried vegetables.

Take recommendations from your guide on where’s good to eat. Don’t discount humble-looking hole-in-thewall restaurants, food courts (which are more advanced than Western ones) or streetfood vendors.

One of the best ways to experiment is on a food tour with a bilingual guide. These tours are wonderful, as they allow you to sample a range of new dishes without having to commit to a plateful in a restaurant. Bear in mind, too,

Are there any customs or rules of etiquette that I should be aware of?

Chinese society isn’t governed by strict etiquette. The people are laid-back and you’re unlikely to offend anyone.

If you’re dining at someone’s home (which we can arrange), the usual good manners apply and a little Mandarin goes a long way. You won’t be expected to eat everything that’s put in front of you; it’s customary for hosts to show their generosity by serving you much more than you could ever eat.

In more rural provinces, you may attract attention as a Westerner: expect stares, and to have your photograph taken. This works both ways, though. Many Chinese people are at best delighted and flattered, at worst indifferent to having their photograph taken (though we always recommend asking first).

The Chinese are friendly, generous and welcoming.

Don’t be surprised if you’re invited into people’s homes or to take part in communal dances in a local park – and no one minds if you don’t know the steps.

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#TheAudleyWay We love receiving your updates on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, and even if you’re not currently traveling you can share images from your recent trips based on each edition’s theme.

WILDLIFE

@chris.addison.5209 Leopard in Yala National Park, Sri Lanka

@afoghornleghorn Tarsier in Bohol, Philippines

@pgrbrown65 Lilac-breasted roller in Botswana

@RossMcEwan10 Andean rabbit in Chile

@wooflaika Chameleon in Selous Game Reserve, Tanzania

Dave Martin Capybara in the Pantanal, Brazil

christianebirr Komodo dragons in Indonesia

Peter Tustain Bee-eater in Udawalawe National Park, Sri Lanka

BillCole_ Lion cubs, Sabi Sands in Kruger, South Africa

5

The winter 2019 Audley Traveler theme will be… landscapes Whether it’s the snowy mountain peaks of Nepal or the powder-soft beaches of the Seychelles, we want to see your best landscape photographs. To take part, write #TheAudleyWay and @AudleyTravel on your Instagram or Twitter posts. Alternatively, you can post directly to our Facebook wall or upload your image to www.audleytravel.com/us/social

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FIND OUT MORE...

To request a brochure please visit: www.audleytravel.com/us/brochures or call 1-855-838-8300

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Come and visit us for specialist advice Many clients find it an invaluable and enjoyable experience planning their trip in person with our specialists, and we welcome visitors to our office in the historic North End of Boston, MA. Feel free to contact us to schedule an appointment with a specialist for your chosen destination.

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Antarctica & Asia

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