Baladithya Madhusoodan

The Sari Series

Published by Kumaran PVT. LTD 313, Mahalakshmi Chambers 22,Bhahubali Desai Road Mumbai 400 026 2020 Baladithya Madhusoodan First Published 2020

Book Design : Baladithya Madhusoodan Photography : The Sari Series and Border And Fall.

Border&Fall’s project is a non-profit cultural documentation of an incredible textile and garment contribution from India, intended to address a perception shift of the sari, which is often seen as staid, traditional and increasingly worn only on formal occasions, particularly in urban India. Each of these films features a drape from a particular region in India, represented through fifteen states. Every drape stays true to its region, whereas the textiles and blouse pairings have been styled to represent a vision of the sari’s changing presence.

Sari A sari or saree is a women’s garment from the Indian subcontinent that consists of an unstitched drape varying from 4.5 to 9 metres in length and 600 to 1,200 millimetres in breadth that is typically wrapped around the waist, with one end draped over the shoulder, covering a larger portion of the midriff. In the modern Indian subcontinent, the sari is considered a cultural icon.

There are more than 80 recorded ways to wear a sari.

The most common style is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with the loose end of the drape to be worn over the shoulder, baring the midriff. However, the sari can be draped in several different styles, though some styles do require a sari of a particular length or form.

“I think, if you tell me that you do not know how to wear a saree, I would say shame on you. It’s a part of your culture, (you) need stand up for it” - Sabyasachi

Sari Draping Ways

Coogri drape Coorgi sari hails from the state of Karnataka and is popular across the globe for its unique draping style. Recognized from its front pallu tucked neatly over the shoulder and saree pleats pushed backwards, this one has is also called Kodagu Style Saree or Kodava Attire. Along with this Saree, the women of Coorg also wear a piece of cloth that looks similar to the saree on their head, called Vastra.

How-to Drape Instruction 1. Double knot sari at right waist with inner end in front 2. Bring outer end anticlockwise and measure at center back waist.

3. Make about 6 pleats and tuck in at center back waist. Gently pull to fan pleats.

4. Drape pallu across chest, bring back to front over right shoulder and knot edge of pallu with front drape.

This is a formal drape worn by upper class Coorgi women that shows off the pallu. This Mysore silk sari has a pure zari border and belonged to Rani Saheb of Kotda Sangani.

Madhava Kachhe drape Karnataka, one of the most beautiful south Indian states is known for its sarees This is one of the most comfortable sarees of all time.

In this style, the pleats are created in the rear, instead of the front. The loose end of the sari is draped back-to-front over the right shoulder, and is pinned to the rest of the sari.

How-to Drape Instruction 1. Double knot sari at right waist with inner end in front.

2. Bring outer end anticlockwise and drape pallu over left shoulder.

3. Bring center portion of outer end back to front between legs and tuck under knot at center front waist.

4. Make about 12 pleats with remaining outer end.

5. Roll pleats into a pouch using innermost drape.

Secure with back drape.

6. Bring center pleat between legs and tuck in at center back waist.

7. Drape pallu over left shoulder and bring back to front over right shoulder

This between-the-legs drape is worn by upper class Brahmin women in central and southern Karnataka.

Madisar drape The Madisar or Koshavam is a typical way in which the sari is worn by Tamil Brahmin women. The sari and the tying style dates back to ancient India, at least as far back as the period between 2nd century BC to 1st century AD when the antariya and uttariya garments were merged to make a single garment. This style of tying the saree is the “koshavam� style, Tamil Brahmin women are required to use this style after their marriage.

This drape is worn by the Iyengar Brahmin women of central Tamil Nadu. This sari is, in fact, two five-yard saris stitched together.

How-to Drape Instruction 1. Double knot sari at right waist with inner end in front.Fold inner end in half and tuck edge in at center front waist.

2. Make up to 3 small pleats with outer end and tuck in at center front waist. Make up to 3 small pleats with outer end and tuck in at left waist.

3. Make up to 3 small pleats with outer end and tuck in at back waist. Bring outer end anticlockwise and tuck in at left waist.

4. Bring remaining outer end between legs and tuck in at center back waist.

5. Make up to 3 small pleats with outer end and tuck in at right waist.

6. Make up to 3 small pleats with outer end and tuck in at center front waist.

7. Make up to 3 small pleats with outer end and tuck in at left waist.

8. Drape pallu front to back over left shoulder. Tuck pallu in at right waist. Bring pallu from back to front and folding lengthwise, tuck in at left waist.

Saries in Vintage India The Beauty of vintage India has a flavour of its own .The nex three pages depicts the beauty of vintage India .

Madvkancha drape

Kumbini drape

Mar Kacha drape

Seedha Palla drape

Parsi drape

Kuncha drape The Saktapar saree which has its origins in Odisha, . is “woven with an ikat weave” and are “traditionally woven in red and black yarn-resist cotton and have a have distinct three border checkerboard pattern”.

How-to Drape Instruction 1. Double knot sari at right waist with inner end in front.

2. Bring lower edge of inner end between legs and tuck in at center back waist.

3. Drape outer end once anticlockwise and tuck in at right waist.

4. Using an arm’s length measure, drape pallu front to back over left shoulder.

5. Bring left portion to back and tuck in at center back waist.

6. Bring pallu from back to front and drape over left arm

This is a tribal drape from central Orissa. It is shown here on a Saktapar sari woven in Sambalpur, Orissa.

Mar Kacha drape Traditionally, it is a single piece of unstitched fabric with variable densities in its parts - with heavier weights allowing for it to drape correctly. Today, its definition includes textiles woven by mill or by hand, often with one density.

The sari’s design is universal and limitless, referenced around the world for its drape, textile and history. It is versatile and adaptable to context, environment and culture, with its making directly tied to the livelihoods of millions of karigars (craftspeople).

How-to Drape Instruction 1. Drape outer end of sari anticlockwise, keeping inner end in front. Double knot at left waist.

2. Pleat remaining outer end and tuck in at center front waist.

3. Allow upper edge of inner end to fall over into a V over pleats.

4. Make around 3 pleats with odhni.

5. Holding in front of chest, drape remaining outer portion clockwise and double knot at right bust.

Allow pleats to fold over and fan.

This two-piece drape was worn by upper class women as it was more delicate and fragile, requiring expertise and limited movement.

Parsi drape Parsis or Parsees (which means ‘Persian’ in the Persian language) are an ethnoreligious group who migrated to the Indian subcontinent from Persia during the Muslim conquest of Persia of CE 636–651; one of two such groups (the other being Iranis). Zoroastrianism is the ethnic religion of the Parsi people. According to the Qissa-i Sanjan, Parsis migrated from the Sasanian Empire to Gujarat, where they were given refuge, between the 8th and 10th century CE to avoid persecution following the Muslim conquest of Persia.

How-to Drape Instruction 1. Double knot sari at right waist with inner end in front.

2. Bring pallu anticlockwise and drape back to front over right shoulder.

3. Adjust for drape and tuck in at left waist.

4. Make pleats with remaining portion. Tuck in at center front waist.

5. Bring edge of pallu anticlockwise and tuck in at right waist.

The Parsi drape is a slight variation of the Seedha Palla, except that the pallu is thrown much lower and closer to the lower border.

Saires in Ravivarma Paintings Raja Ravi Varma (29 April 1848 – 2 October 1906) was a celebrated Indian painter and artist. He is considered among the greatest painters in the history of Indian art for a number of aesthetic and broader social reasons. Firstly, his works are held to be among the best examples of the fusion of European techniques with a purely Indian sensibility. While continuing the tradition and aesthetics of Indian art, his paintings employed the latest European academic art techniques of the day. Secondly, he was notable for making affordable lithographs of his paintings available to the public, which greatly enhanced his reach and influence as a painter and public figure. Indeed, his lithographs increased the involvement of common people with fine arts and defined artistic tastes among common people for several decades. .

Pin Kossavam drape In the Pin Kossavam drape from Tamil Nadu, the sari is usually worn without a petticoat. ... The goal is to re-introduce other ways of draping that could help more Indian women wear the sari on a regular basis, drawing inspiration from regional styles.

How-to Drape Instruction 1. Make about 6 pleats with inner end and hold at center back waist.

2. Drape outer end anticlockwise under pleats and double knot at right waist.

3. Drape pallu over left shoulder. Tuck front portion in at center back waist.

4. Bring right edge of pallu back to front and tuck in at left waist.

This working style drape begins with the pleats exposed in the back. It is worn short and is likely hitched up further if necessary.

Seedha Palla drape The draping of saree in a Gujarati way is known as ‘Seedha pallu’. It is found commonly in UP, MP, Bihar, Rajasthan, and also Gujarat. This saree draping style also gives a slim look.

How-to Drape Instruction 1. Double knot sari at right waist with inner end in front.

2. Make about 12 pleats with outer end and tuck in at center front waist.

3. Bring pallu anticlockwise and pleat the end.

4. Drape back to front over right shoulder.

5. Bring edge of pallu once around body anticlockwise and tuck in right waist

Seedha Palla refers to the contemporary drape adopted by urban women since the late 19th century, except that the pallu is draped over the right shoulder back to front. This Banarasi sari features parrots, foxes, tigers, angels and a myriad of forest creatures.

Kumbini drape Look for the traditional occasions in Goa you will find the women now wearing this drape to uplift their culture.

However, in the earlier days women who worked hard in the paddy fields and near water areas used to try this drape. The saree if you watch was draped in a manner that it never spoiled the cloth. You will see in this format saree draped from the shoulder below with ends tied on top of the right shoulder. This way saree remained intact and did not cause any hindrance while working. You will find a number of ramp shows today walking the ground with Kunbi saree draping style

How-to Drape Instruction 1. Double knot sari at right waist with inner end in front.

2. Make about 12 pleats with outer end and tuck in at center front waist.

3. Bring outer end once around body anticlockwise and tuck in at center front waist.

4. Drape pallu around chest anticlockwise and bring over right shoulder. Knot with edge of front drape

The Hindu Kunbi drapes longer to ankle length. It is often folded up by farm labour while working in the fields..

This project was created by Border&Fall and its team includes Malika Verma Kashyap, Rta Kapur Chishti, Deep Kailey, Rashmi Varma, Sanjay Garg, Sunitha Kumar Emmart, Julia FG Smith, Suniti Rao, Rhea Subramanian, Pallavi Verma, Sharanya Aggarwal, Mehak Kapur Chishti, Carol Humtsoe and TJ Bhanu