Incompany by attire club issue 9 april 2018

Editorial: The Hidden Part of Style

W

e’ve often written on AttireClub.org how fashion is one’s expression of who they are; of their personality and world view. The clothes you wear have the power to put you in the mood to do something or can give you the confidence to be who you want to be. A simple accessory can change your entire attitude: adding something that you like to your look can improve your posture, your approach towards people and the things you do and even the way you speak.

But fashion goes a lot beyond that. This is why, a few years ago, we have introduced the concept of “metafashion”, which describes the things you do before and after getting dressed and the things you choose to surround yourself with. In other words, it’s the process of extending the things that express materially who you are in your soul to other aspects of life, to composing your life as a set for the character you want to be.

Aligning the clothes you wear with the idea you have or want to have of yourself is important because it keeps you working on your personal development; it gives you the opportunity to analyze yourself and to have a deep relation with yourself.

Of course, one should not base their entire life on their look, clothes and material things, these should be extensions of yourself, but they should not be neglectable.

See your home as your dressing room, your playlist as your soundtrack and the things you have as your props. Don’t think of them as what they are to others or to those who made them, but rather what they are to you and what role they play in your mental structure. Where do they come from, what do they symbolize?

All these things matter because in the end, as the amazing Diana Vreeland would say, “It’s not about the dress you wear, but the life you lead in the dress.”

The Attire Club Team

3

InCompanytAttirehClub Released by FRAQUOH AND FRANCHOMME Chief Executive Officer Dan Dimitriu Creative Director Iosif Trif Write letters to the editor iosif.trif@attireclub.org Visit our website attireclub.org Contact & Advertising office@attireclub.org Address Theresiengasse 50 Top 1 1180 Vienna Austria Telephone 0097 150 12 801 73 Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/attireclub

Twitter: twitter.com/attireclub

Pinterest: pinterest.com/attireclub

Instagram: instagram.com/attireclub

Tumblr: attireclub.tumblr.com

4

Image from “The Ladies’ Home Journal” (1948)

5

Contents

Spring 2018

Editorial

The Hidden Part of Style Being stylish beyong clothes. u3 In Their Own Words Blogger Jesús Sánchez Moreno Talking life, talking style. u 10 Style Guide Men’s Shoes: Smooth Leather, Suede & Patent Leather Let your shoes speak. u 14 Baselworld The World in a Watch Haute horologie at its finest. u 18 In Their Own Words Actor Miguel Ángel Bellido Acting as a way of understanding. u 32 Live Tonight Nikos Vertis The Greek singer discusses his songs, his fans and YouTube. u 40

6

A Report on the Party and the Guests There’s a Lot Riding on this Game The 2018 edition of the Snow Polo World Cup in Words and Pictures u 44 Style Guide The Guide to Choosing an Umbrella Making the best of a rainy morning. u 52 Current Obsessions Baselworld Edition Time for good watches. u 56 In Their Own Words Photographer Mario Schmolka Of style and sensuality. u 58 Travel & Culture I for Italy Fun facts about the country of Fendi, Prada and Armani. u 62 In Their Own Words Fashion Designer Elena Dimitrova Unconventional materials, unconventional ideas. u 66 Style Guide 9 Tips to Maintain Your Ties Keeping your neckwear in shape! u 70 Fashion History 4 Women’s Style Elements that were First Worn by Men Not so fast ladies, we were here first. u 72

7

Fashion and Technology When Fashion and Technology Merge: An InCompany by Attire Club Overview Everything you missed in our past issues. u 76 Fashion Ahead Ballet Calligraphy by Lesia Trubat Drawing with dance. u 80 The Attire Club Mood Diary Our Moodboard as a Visual Journal Racinet’s L’Ornament Polychrome u 82 AC World Nurit David: The Liev Arts Interview Painting as a construction. u 90 QR Code Glossary Discover the Brands Presented in this Issue Use your to go right to the brands and blogs you've seen in this issue of the diary. u 92

YListen to a song with the cotents!

8

InCompanytAttirehClub

The Smart Magazine Attire Club is offering a complete men’s style, fashion and lifestyle experience, centered around the AC website.

To discover our universe and over 1000 articles that will offer you the tools to develop your style, as well as fashion inspiration and cultural insights and to interact with us and be part of our community, visit us online.

attireclub.org +See our QR Code Glossary at the end of the magazine

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Blogger

Jesús Sánchez Moreno Jesús Sánchez Moreno is a Spanish blogger. On his blog, WolfStyle, he covers many aspects of fashi and style, but also dives into food and travel. He is also very popular on social media, with a following of over 15000 on IG alone. In this interview, we discuss fashion, his passions and his blog.

“I am always paying attention to trends, but I never forget my own style” What can you tell us about your background?

Jesús Sánchez Moreno: Since I was a child, my mother taught me how to dance. I have always liked music a lot.

I was part of a dance group typical of Spain. I grew up in a very small town in Córdoba. I have worked on many things, but I have always wanted to be a journalist, I love writing, reading and researching.

I studied audiovisual production and then came to live in Madrid, where I studied journalism. I was always a very happy young man with many aspirations in life.

10

How and why did you start your blog and what can you tell us about it?

JSM: I am a journalist and I like writing very much. I like to give my opinions on current news and to share with everyone my ideas, my inspirations and thoughts.

I believe that a good journalist must always have a medium to transmit his thoughts without having to keep objectivity.

My blog is the curriculum of my career, where I express myself freely. If I ever want to change jobs, this blog can give me a new opportunity to start something new. In my social networks activity, I share all the content with my follow-

ers, which I find very fun and entertaining. They give me feedback and that helps me to continue inspiring myself to write new things. Little by little I have expanded in many

11

12

areas: food, lifestyle, TV and I’ve also done some collaborations…

time.

In my wardrobe, you cannot miss shirts, they are something very basic and mandatory for every man, they make ay guy very elegant. When men wear good dress shirts, they will be elegant and stylish. Now, in the winter I like to wear jerseys of all colors; they are very comfortable and warm.

I am always paying attention to trends, but I never forget my own style. I am very faithful to my personal tastes.

Why is it called WolfStyle?

JSM: I love animals. Wolves are magical and I like their free nature. When writing, I feel like a wolf that runs without fear. My style is one of a kind and to show it to thousands of followers you have to never be afraid; that’s why I decided to call my blog WolfStyle. I think it’s striking, original and unique. the puzzle and discovers a story full of mysteries.

I really like horror movies, but one of my favorite movies is “Pan’s Labyrinth” written and directed by Guillermo del Toro. I like the mixture of the real world with fantasy, it transports me to a world of magical dreams. I also liked his newest one, “The Shape of the Water” very much.

JSM: One of my favorite books is “Tell Me Who I Am” by one of my favorite Spanish writers, Julia Navarro. The story tells the story of a journalist who has to investigate the unknown life of his great grandmother, and little by little he unites all the pieces of

In terms of fashion and clothes, what do you like to wear and why?

JSM: I like clothes very much!

My style is very defined, I would say it is rather classic.

Lately, I discovered I like sportswear more and more.

Sneakers drive me crazy and now I use wear them all the

JSM: With my hair and beard. They always have to be perfect. I like to be very well groomed, and the beard has to be always well taken care of.

I cannot go outside until my hair is not as I like it.

When I wash it, I always dry it with the dryer and with the help of a comb, I give the shape I want. Then, I use wax and lacquer so it does not look disheveled.

It can take 30 minutes.

Thank you!

Discover the WolfStyle blog at wolfstyle.blog

YRead this article with a song!

What are some of your favorites books, films and TV shows and why? What do you think they reveal about you?

I followed a lot of the Spanish version of the TV show “Triumph Operation”, a reality show where young musical talents have to sing different songs and face a jury. It was very fun and entertaining.

What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise?

13

STYLE GUIDE

Men’s Shoes:

Smooth Leather, Suede & Patent Leather Photos: Attire Club

When it comes to choosing shoes, there are many things you should consider: the occasion or context where you want to wear them, the outfit you’ll be wearing and how much mileage you can get out of them. While leather shoes can be classified in different ways, we want to take a new approach and look at shoes from the perspective of their level of shine or gloss. When you enter a shoe store, you’ll notice that almost all dress shoes or boots fall in one of three categories. Some have a medium shine, others don’t shine at all and some are extremely glossy. Each of these types has a different vibe and thus it can or should be considered for different settings and outfits. Discover our breakdown of the three types in this guide.

Smooth Leather

at work and at a dressy party.

Under the “smooth leather” category fall most types of leather you see. From pullup leather to calfskin, most types of leathers (both in terms of their provenance and processing) can be categorized as smooth leather.

The reason why we integrate all these types of leather in this category is because they are very versatile and can be worn in a variety of contexts. For example, a classic pair of shoes made from Shell Cordovan leather, which is a very fine type of leather that looks amazing when shined well, can be worn both

And that is the case with most quality leather shoes. A great pair of smooth oxfords for example, can be worn not only in a wide variety of settings, but also in with many types of outfits. They clearly go with a suit, but they also go with a jeans and sweater look, which

14

makes investing in a versatile pair of shoes such as wingtip shoes, which are considered to be the most versatile style, is really worth it.

Smooth leather shoes are generally cleaned though a classic process of using a brush and, when necessary cream or wax.

15

Suede Suede is a type of leather that features a soft, napped surface, on the flesh side or on the outer side after removal of a thin outer layer. Suede is great for more casual shoes. Suede shoes come in many colors and styles. You can find almost anything from suede brogues to suede monk strap shoes. Moccasins or loafers also look great when made from suede.

The advantages of suede are that it is very durable and does not scruff. When cared for correctly, a pair of quality suede shoes can last for years. To make sure your suede shoes always look well, you can invest in a special suede brush or gum. These are designed to help remove and embedded dirt and keep the nape fluffy.

An alternative to suede is nubuck leather, which is similar to suede but features a much finer texture. Nubuck is more delicate than suede. This is why, when cleaning it, a suede cleaning brush might damage it. A crepe brush should come in handy.

16

Patent Leather Glossy shoes are generally made from patent leather. This is a type of coated leather that has a very shiny finish. This type of finish, which appeared in the United States in 1818 and commercially in 1819, is reserved today for very special occasions. Patent leather shoes are worn usually when the black tie code is required (black tie being one of the most precise dress codes), but they are not really mandatory to be worn with a black tie ensemble. Glossy shoes usually come in black, but there are many brands that offer such shoes in various colors such as blue or even burgundy. Colorful patent leather shoes can be worn at more creative events and are best matched to colorful tuxedo jackets.

Sometimes, shiny shoes are made from synthetic materials. These may look the same as patent leather in the beginning, but are less likely to last for a long time.

There are many ways in which leather shoes can be categorized. Separating leather shoes in smooth leather, suede and patent leather will help you figure out more easily how to wear shoes and when to wear which type. This way, you will make more relevant shopping choices and will optimize your wardrobe.

17

YRead this article with a song!

Patent leather shoes can be cleaned with baby wipes, or with petroleum jelly and a soft cloth.

Always make sure you are gentle with them.

BASELWORLD: THE WORLD IN A WATCH 18

Baselworld is one of the world’s biggest watch and jewelry fairs the world. The event takes place each year in Switzerland’s third-largest city, Basel. During the six days of this year’s event, which took place between the 22nd and 27th of March 2018, some of the biggest brands of the world showcased the best of their products and launched new ones.

Each year, Baselworld attracts tens of thousands of people from all over the world and an impressive press audience as well. InCompany by Attire Club has also been invited to be an official press partner for the 2018 edition.

Photo: Attire Club

19

T

he event took place for the first time in April 1917, when it was called the first Schweizer Mustermesse Basel (MUBA), Mustermesse translating simply from German as “sample fair”. A total of 831 companies from different parts of the Swiss economy such as the banking, insurance and transport industries exhibited in the city’s casino. The 6000-square-meter/ 64583 square-foot exhibition space also included a special sector for watches and jewelry, as the fair was not dedicated just to watches. Brands such as Longines, Ulysse Nardin and Tissot were among the first brands to exhibit. Some brands have exhibited almost every year in Basel, becoming true household names. For example, Patek Philippe has been present at the Basel fair since 1932.

It was in 1931 when the fair became a show featuring many watches and jewelry, as this sector had grown immensely over the years. This segment was so big, that it was held in the pavilion that is today’s Hall 1.

As of 1967, the show saw the introduction of electronic watches, as brands such as Ca20

sio and Seiko mass-produced quartz wristwatches.

In 1972, the show was called “Europe’s Meeting Place” as companies from France, Italy, Germany, and the United Kingdom were invited to take part. It was only in 1973 that the first pan-European Watch and Jewelry Show (Europäische Uhren- und Schmuckmesse / EUSM) took place. And, speaking of 1972, this was the year Audemars Piguet launched the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, a model that is still en vogue.

In 1973, Ebauches Electronic SA presented an eight-digit LCD wristwatch that showcased the time and date.

In1983, the year the Swatch watch was introduced, was the first year Basel was held independently of the other sectors.

Three years later, in 1986, the fair opened up to exhibitors from the whole world, not just Europe, making it immediately one of the world’s most important fairs of the type.

The decade that followed, the 1990s, was a true boom for the event, which blossomed into prosperity. Thus, the Basel fair attracted more and more brands and exhibitors and was the place where many new models were unveiled. For example, in 1990, Junghans exhibited the first radio-controlled wristwatch in history, called the MEGA 1. As of the late 1980s, the watch industry saw a boom

in new mechanical models.

This shift is known in the industry as the “mechanical renaissance”. The beginning of the 1990s was time when the show had grown so much that the organizers considered moving to another city, but later decided to drop the idea.

The show was so big that, for example, in 1999, TAG Heuer unveiled its three-story Basel booth, which remained in use until 2012.

The 2000s welcomed a new era of watchmaking: one where classic brands coexisted with brands that had at their core the idea of trend and innovation.

In 2003, the show was renamed as BASELWORLD, The Watch and Jewellery Show. Now, brands were allocating more and more money to their stands and Baselworld expanded to new dimensions with an exhibition surface of 160000 square meters / 1722225 square feet.

The 2003 show attracted over 89000 visitors. Brands invested not only in their products, but also in the experiences they offered to their customers.

As the new millennium began, marketing remained one of the most important aspects of the show, with brands going full throttle on their presentations. Moreover, the first years of the 21st century saw a growth in side events.

In 2007, Baselworld broke its own record in terms of visitors, as it was the first time A polo-inspired piece by RCM Photo: Attire Club

21

the fair drew over 100000 people. The 101700 people who attended the show came to Basel from 101 countries.

The growth of the event was also reflected in the space occupied by the brands. In 2004, Rolex had showcased its products in 180 square meters / 1937 square feet across two stories, which was almost 40 times larger than the first booth they had, back in 1939.

million US dollars.

Today, Baselworld is thus a point of reference for watchmakers and watch lover from all over the world. Baselworld has always changed and developed and has thus always been a reflection of nothing else but time.

The end of the 2000s and the beginning of the 2010 decade were marked by a watch world where large conglomerates and corporations are just as important as small, independent artisans who create timepieces that are able to compete in the same space. In 2010, the organizers put together a temporary edifice next to the parking structure, called the Baselworld Palace, where artistic individuals showcased their creations.

After the year 2010, one could see more and more technology brought into Basel. For example, 2012 saw the launch of HYT’s H1, a hydromechanical watch which makes use of a mechanical movement to move liquid in order to display the time.

Between 2011 and 2013, Basel-based architects Herzog & de Meuron, the company responsible for Beijing’s Olympic “Bird’s Nest”, constructed an exhibitions surface of 140600 square meters / 1513405 square feet. This endeavor cost no less than 430 million Swiss francs or 458 22

Patek Philippe Répétition Minutes à Heure Universelle Référence 5531R

B

Photo: Attire Club

aselworld has been the go-to

place for the latest watches and jewelry for a long time; almost for as long as there have been watches around. Well-located in the town of Basel, Switzerland, close to both the German and French border, the event makes it easy for people to attend from wherever they may come. Many people from all over the world come to Basel each year, from Europe, China, from the Middle East,

the USA, Asia and even Africa and Latin America. The event is mostly a B2B event, where brands discuss with potential new clients and with existing ones and present their latest innovations to the press, but it is also an event for those who simply love watches and luxury.

Luxury is the keyword that describes Baselworld best.

While there are many established brands present, which are synonymous with luxury, such as Patek Philippe, Graff and Rolex, there are also many up-and-coming brands that exhibit during the event, which, while they might not be as known, have the same goals, namely to create amazing luxury experiences.

Walking through Baselworld is a one of a kind experience: the amount of beauty and richness found at every corner is astonishing. Besides the watches and jewelry section, there is also an entire pavilion dedicated to diamonds, precious stones and pearls, where one can see more glitz and glam that you could ever even imagine.

Besides the organized booths and events, there are many brands and watchmakers who are connecting with potential customers and clients on the halls of the fair or in the cafÊs and restaurants in or surrounding the Basel Messe, which is the venue where the event is held. And Baselworld truly is the place to launch your business, since it’s the place where all the powerful 23

investors and clients are and where the best of the media is present as well.

Discussions, movements and movements Baselworld, however, is not just about trade and commerce; it’s also about making the world of luxury better.

Ultimately, the concept of luxury is about quality and exquisiteness. In this sense, this year, Chopard held two events, one called “The Road to Sustainable Luxury” and a Business of Fashion panel discussion, focusing on the new directions in sustainability in the luxury sector. Chopard is one of the first brands to take strong action towards a more ethical approach to creating luxury items. The “Road to

Sustainable Luxury” conference featured Caroline and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-Presidents of Chopard, Colin and Livia Firth, Julianne Moore and more, who discussed how luxury can be more than expensive and quality items, it can also represent a whole background of ethically-made products. For Chopard, the new direction in luxury is not just about having good products, but doing good. Products should be pure both in carat and in heart. It’s definitely great to see that Chopard is taking real steps into making products traceable, even though this is still hard to do. Maybe they can use blockchain technology?

The BoF panel discussion, led

by Imran Amed discussed the global goals of the jewelry and

watches industry and placed a great emphasis on how business and governments should work together to do good.

The 101st edition of Baselworld was somewhat smaller compared to other editions.

In fact, it was a lot smaller.

While some people saw it as a bad symbol, the organizers explained that they wanted to focus more on quality than quantity and that having a show that is too large is also too costly. In the end, this can be seen as a great point: luxury is about powerful things in small doses, it’s about quality over quantity; but we also believe that having a shorter event overall could be a good thing in the long run. As today there’s a strong movement (pun intended) to go toward

1 OF GREAT MEN AND GREAT WATCHES: SPACE WATCHES BY LOUIS MOINET You might have heard of dive watches and of pilot watches, but it’s not very likely that you have heard of space watches. The latest creations by Louis Moinet are just that. Granted, they might not have been made to be worn in space in particular, but you could definitely wear one when you go to space. Until then, you can simply bring the space on Earth with watches like the Spacewalker watch, a stunning timepiece celebrating the first spacewalk and Alexey Leonov, the man who performed it.

The watch, a collaboration between Alexey Leonov and Louis Moinet, was launched at Baselworld by Louis Moinet Creative Director Jean-Marie Schaller in the presence of Lenov’s daughter. The launch raised space-high emotions as the emotional event was brought to the forefront of the presentation.

On the 18th of March 1965, cosmonaut Alexey Leonov stepped outside the thin metal shell of Voskhod-2 to float in the mysterious void of space. Thus, he was the first spacewalker. His 12 minutes and 9 seconds spacewalk opened the doors on an entire new branch of exploration.

24

The Spacewalker



1SPACEBOOK

In the trend forecast for 2018, published on 16 December 2017, we wrote that one of the biggest trends of 2018 will be space. Our report said: “Everything related to space will be a big trend in 2018, we believe. We’re expecting to see a lot of astronaut-inspired looks, galaxy prints and aliens. Moreover, planets, asteroids and other celestial elements will be some of the biggest hits in 2018.”

Many brands at Baselworld relased items that were space-themed or even ran with an overall space theme: TAG Heuer’s collaboration projects with the Chinese Lunar Exploration Program (Photos: Attire Club) A UFO design at the Schwarz Etienne booth



The 2018 edition of Baselworld took place right over the weekend when clocks changed and Europeans entered the summer time. This particular detail was of great importance to us, as it showed that, indeed, people have the power to give time shape, a true metaphor for quality, luxury watches.

 



medium-sized things: medium-sized cities, medium-sized homes, etc.; having a medium-sized event can be beneficial. Most of the business that is done at Baselworld is done over the first days, most launches and events are held over the weekend days and, after four days that are heavily charged, people tend to be tired and to run out of energy.

Of course, some can’t make it during the first days, which is why it is good that the event lasted for another two more, thus offering the opportunity to finish off any started deals or to complete any collaborations.

Eliros Ladies 35mm by Maurice Lacroix

The Real Moon Tides

by Christiaan van der Klaauw

The SkyLink by Louis Moinet

The Opus PM 70 by Erwin Sattler

The Harmony

by Bergstern

Detail by MB&F+L’Epée1839

25

See more examples at attireclub.org

1STRONG ROOTS: THE PICCHIOTTI FAMILY TREE

The Mille Miglia Racing Colours Collection

1CHOPARD: SHOWPIECES Picchiotti is a strong Italian family label, with a history of 50 years of creating exquisite jewelry. To celebrate Giusseppe Picchiotti’s work, the brand has created the Picchiotti Family Tree, a beautiful revolving sculpture designed to display gorgeous gems and jewelry. The label aslo added polaroid pictures to the tree, to honor their friends and family.

1TIMELESS ELEGANCE BY CHARRIOLL Charrioll is known in the luxury industry for its watches, jewelry and other accessories.

For those who love timeless pieces with a modern twist, the brand has several beautiful collections of watches to offer.

Distinctive and elegant, many Charriol pieces are highly versatile and can be easily worn with many types of outfits for various settings.

What’s truly great about Charriol is that they extend their collections for both men and women.

26

Chopard was definitely one of the brightest stars of the 2018 edition of Baselworld. Not only due to their conferences and strong positions on ethical jewelry creation, but also because of the stunning pieces they graced the event with.

From stunning limited-edtion diamond watches to dynamic L.U.C and sporty pieces, Chopard Quattro has proven itself once again to be a name synonymous with elegance, refinemet and luxury of the highest rank.

1CORONET, THE RECORD BRAKER On the 23rd of March 2018, Hong Kong diamond jeweler set an official Guiness World Record for “most diamonds on a handbag.” The piece, modeled here by the former Miss Switzerland, is a Coca-Cola bottle-shaped bag featuring 9,888 diamonds, 120 cts.

To complete the bag, 15 craftsman worked for 100 days.

1THE GIBERG TREASURE

This unique sculpture of the dragon Ahton, Keeper of Confidence, measures 25×30×24 cm / aprox. 9x12x9 in (length ×width×height) was designed and crafted with great care between 2007 and 2012 by the team of Giberg Swiss Noble Forge. It weighs 5.090 kg / 11.2 lbs and is studded with 7739 G-H coloured diamonds (clarity grade: VS1-SI1) weighing a total of 108.655 Ct. With such a strong piece to represent the brand, it is needless to say that all the Giberg watches seem to be a treasure that has can have the ability to give the wearer confidence and lots and lots of beauty. In the end, “Giberg” is Old High German for “treasure”.

Photo: Attire Club

1BIG, BOLD & DREAMY: DREAMBOULE

YRead this article with a song!

Dreamboule is a Milanese brand that offers rings like no other. Their creations are veritable domes in which true miniature scenes are created with extreme precision and detail. Despite the rather large size of the pieces, they are extremely comfortable. Designer Ben Crocco developed the brand after being inspired by the dreamy Christmas globes that tell stories and contain whole worlds in a small space. Thus, he is now offering a wide range of exquisite designs that allow you to carry that dreamlike state with you wherever you go.

27

1FOR THE GODDESSES IN YOUR LIFE: AMALYS

Photo: Attire Club

1THE COMPLETE EXPERIENCE WITH BRUNO MAGLI Bruno Magli is an Italian brand known for its beautfiul leather shoes for both men and women. The brand also offers a wide and beautiful collection of clothes and accessories such as belts, bags and wallets and at Baselworld, they focused on showcasing their exquisite collection of watches, which are designed to complement their clothes. To do this, they use similar shapes, colors and details, but also offer the same product in different colors, thus allowing the wearer to mix and match pieces according to their taste and personality.

Talk about a complete experience of great Italian style!

1A PLAY ON STYLE WITH YUNIK While the name of the Yunik brand is a play on words around the word “unique�, the watches they propose are a true play on style. Quirky, young and fresh, the Yunik watches are go-to pieces for those who want to wear colorful watches.

Hand-made from Murano glass and featuring a high-quality Swiss movement, each piece is unique in design, no two watches are the same. Bold and bright, the watches are eye-catching statement pieces for both men and women, since all their styles are designed to be unisex. In our opinion, they have a young European flair, which is much needed these days.

28

Amalys is a new Belgian brand, launched in November 2017

by Adrien Voisin. The name is inspired by a Greek name which describes a passionate and ambitious woman. Only a few months after their launch, their they are presenting their first collection, which is composed of soft square watches for women who wish to be daring and feminine at the same time.

Amalys watches will be soon available in over 500 stores worldwide.

Photo: Attire Club

1DOING IT WITH UNDONE For Undone, people’s individuality matters most. Michael Young, the founder of the brand sees luxury as originality, as personality and as being able to express your personality and style through the things you wear in a way that completely you. This is why he founded Undone back in 2014, offering affordable, high-quality custom watches to people from all over the world. Thus, Undone offers a complete personalization experience to its customers, where even the bracelets of the watches can be personalized in many ways.

1Hors événement. Many up and coming brands present their watches outside the frame of Baselworld. Here are our top 3 picks of these strong contenders: Undone, Lundis Bleus and Khamama.

1UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE

BY LUNDIS BLEUS Based in Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Lundis Bleus is an independednt watch brand, which has as its core values beauty, honesty and durability. Their designs are subtle and elegant and just the right thing for those who like that well-known understated Swiss elegance.

The Lundis Bleus watches come in a variety of prices, making their aesthetic accessible for a wide range of customers.

1A FRAGILE RISK: KHAMAMA Simple lines and architectural structures might be some of the core features of the Khamama watches, but their uniqueness lies in the fact that their designs are based on butterflies. Yes, real butterflies are the basis of these watches. Using organic materials makes them obviously unique, since no design can be replicated twice, but also gives them an organic look and shimmer.

Nathan Hornstein, one of the founders of the brand, presented his watch during Baselworld, as this is the place to showcase upcoming brands, which may in the near future be part of the event.

29 Photo: Attire Club

MASTER

Graff Floral Purple

Tissot Chrono XL Tour de France Special Edition

30

Schwarz Etienne Ode au Printemps

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Smalta Clara

WORKS

Breguet Marine 5547BB Y2 9ZU

Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic

de Grisogono New Retro Power Reserve

31

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Actor

Miguel Ángel Bellido Miguel Ángel Bellido is a Spanish actor who has worked both on stage and in films. As most actors, he’s a charismatic guy who is always interested in exploring new emotions and discovering the world.

In this interview, we find out how he bcame an actor, what acting means to him and how his clothes help him get in role.

“Every time I learn something, I realize that that the more I know, the less I know.”

What can you tell us about your background? How did you grow up?

Miguel Ángel Bellido: I was born in El Puerto de Santa María, a small town in the south of Spain in the province of Cádiz in a very large family. My mother has 7 brothers and my father has 4 brothers.

I have many uncles and cousins with whom I grew up in a very special and united way.

When I was 8, my brother Pablo was born. My parents did not continue with that tradition of having many children, so we are only two. Now he is 18 years old and he has always been one of my greatest pillars and one of my greatest 32

references for learning, even though I am the oldest.

I have always had artistic concerns. I’ve always loved dancing, singing and acting and every family reunion was a good excuse to get everyone’s attention to watch my show.

Also, between joke and joke I always used to get some money to then buy goodies... Haha What made you decide that you wanted to be an actor?

MAB: At 18, I started studying Advertising and Public Relations, but also I began to understand that everything I when I was little and did in the form of a game or hobby,

was still inside me and that now it was not a simple pastime. It started to be the only thing that made me happy and what I wanted to dedicate my life to, so I started taking theater and film classes for 3 years, to such an extent that I began to devote 90% of my time to acting and 10% to my studies in university. My passion grew and the feel of the obligation to study a classic career began to dissipate, so one day I decided to finally be what I had always wanted to be. One afternoon I decided to move to Madrid, the capital of Spain, where I currently live, and where the best theater schools were and where there would be infinite pos-

33

34

sibilities. My parents did not know that this feeling was so strong in me. The afternoon I decided to buy the plane ticket to go to Madrid was the day I communicated it to them.

I was aware that it was crazy, but if I meditated or kept waiting, I would havenever made the decision out of fear.

My parents believed that everything was a joke until a few hours later when I actually moved to what was called the city of opportunities for me.

Having been all that hasty, I did not think about the arrival time and got there right at dawn and had to sleep on the street. All very crazy, but I would never change it for anything. It was the best decision I made and I do not regret anything. Everything was perfect and I was able to enter the best school of interpretation in Madrid, the Juan Carlos Corazza Studio, where I continued my training for 3 years. Later, I started taking classes with Fernando Piernas with whom I am currently studying.

What is acting to you? How do you define it?

MAB: For me to act is to seek, play, understand and empathize. Performing makes you much more tolerant and empathetic with people because to interpret a character you have to know all their circumstances, their history and their line of thought in order to bring truth and value to everything that character says and does. When you have to play a murderer, you have to

empathize and understand that thought and why it leads you to do that in order to interpret it without fear, without modesty and without judgment. All this teaches you to discover new ways of thinking and new ways of acting that you previously did not know or even judged. I’m not saying that the behavior of a murderer is justified (Laughs).

But as an actor you have to look for it, understand it and defend it. I could also define it as the possibility of giving voice to everything that society represses or that is not given value or weight. In a theater, you are free to carry a story with a totally different thought than you can give in your daily life and that is really enriching and very fun. It is showing the world things that other people would be afraid to express or do but that need to be said.

In short, for me to act is to seek the truth in the depths of each character, embrace it, navigate inside it and get it afloat so that it has its place in the world.

Who are your favorite actors and why?

MAB: My favorite actors are Leonardo DiCaprio and Meryl Streep. It may sound very typical and even “wildcard response” but I really feel an excessive fixation of admiration towards these two great actors especially towards Leonardo.

They are extremely chameleonic and communicate a truth and naturalness almost impos-

sible to achieve. For me, they are great examples of what acting is. They love and respect this work and welcome each character with open arms until it is present in each part of them and defend them as if it were the life of oneself.

Do you prefer the stage or the screen? Why? MAB: Undoubtedly, I prefer the theater. The theater is magic from beginning to end.

The energy, the rhythm, the colors, the smells...

The creation of the character is also much more organic than in cinema since you are progressing in parallel with how the work is progressing.

In movies sometimes you shoot the end first and then the beginning. This is also very enriching because you have to have continuity in a discontinuous way of working.

Even the way of acting is very different. In theater, you have to take everything to the extreme, the characters have to live the conflict with more pathos than in the cinema, which has to be more like “real life”.

The sensation of being in a theater in front of an audience where actors, characters and the public are, the connection of all these is something inexplicable, that the cinema does not have.

Although it is true that it is almost impossible to live out 35

of theater. If you do not make movies or television you will not have a good income and you will have to have at least three jobs to live moderately well. It is really frustrating.

How do the clothes you wear in a role influence your acting permormance?

MAB: For me, clothes are extremely important. If you let yourself get caught in the game, each item you wear gives you an ingredient for the creation of the character. The simple fact of wearing a hat to not wearing it puts you in a very different place. Clothes change your gestures, the shape of your body and even your thoughts. For me, it is very important to know how to choose the clothes of each 36

character since I will nourish them to build a that character. There is definitely a connection between the way the character acts and feels and the way he looks. Sometimes, I even like to wear something as if it were the hidden, personal object of a character. It does not have to be on stage, not even seen, but I really feel that I just having something in your pocket, which the character just touches, can take take me to a new universe of creation and understanding. Just touching that object and I can enter the stage with the energy of that character.

What do you personally like to wear in everyday life?

MAB: The truth is that in my daily life I am pretty basic in dressing. I really like a total black look or some gray pants, black turtleneck and a black or camel coat and matching sneakers. I really like simplicity and minimalist dressing. I’m not

wearing prints or colors that are too flashy. I find it much more elegant. Less is more (Laughs).

What do you think the clothes you wear say about your personality? In other words, if you were a character, what type of character would you be?

MAB: I do not think the clothes I wear talk about me or my personality completely.

It is true that there is a part of me that expresses itself in clothing. I guess my clothes are connected to my love for architecture and minimalist decoration. Straight lines, neutral colors and very cold materials. I like the same things in art. I can spend hours looking at a white box

with a red line. I love this type of art. So, this is part of my personality. I am a also a party animal. I love being on the street, I can not spend several hours straight home because I feel overwhelmed. I love hanging out with my friends and spending all day laughing with them. I like to play dumb and I’m always kidding.

Now that you ask me, it is true that if I were a character, I would look like someone quite bored, sad, lonely, a bit like a bohemian writer and a little crazy (Laughs). So, of course my clothes do not say everything about me but that also seems interesting to me. If we expressed ourselves completely through clothes, we would not awaken curiosity in other people. It seems I like the contrasts!

Do you have any style inspiration?

MAB: The truth is that I do not have any referent of style

37

all the things that I put on the agenda. I don’t stand because I think I’m wasting my time so, I try to keep myself busy all the time.

What are you currently obssesed with?

or fashion. I like to check male fashion magazines and see new trends, but always following my most basic line.

I do not join everything that comes out in a magazine because I like to go in a more elegant way and I think that, sometimes, fashion is not synonymous with elegance.

What do you like to do in your free time?

MAB: In my free time I love being with my friends. I would like to spend time with my family too, but they are far away so I can only see them on vacation.

I love going to the theater, to the cinema, having a salad and going to a park to enjoy the sun and a good book on theater. I also like sports a lot.

I try to go to the gym every day and I go to air hoop lessons, although I’m still bit clumsy. I also like to go to dance classes: hip hop, funk...

I like to be busy and the truth is that sometimes I can not do 38

MAB: I am currently obsessed with traveling. I have a very strong wish to see and visit many different cities and countries. I want to enrich myself through meeting new people and discovering new ways of thinking, new cultures, new religions and being able to understand all the people who live very differently from me. After all, I think that this feeling is very close to acting. You need to know a lot to have a more open mentality to better know the characters. I could not play a boy who picks up rice in a field if I’ve never been there and I do not know what it is like to do that. How do you live that, how do you feel... I need to constantly nourish myself from all kinds of people, cultures and see many different places to feel fulfilled and full as a person, but this feeling is so strong that I always need more. Every time I learn something, I realize that that the more I know, the less I know.

Thank you!

Follow Miguel Ángel on IG at instagram.com/ miguelangel_bellido

LIVE TONIGHT The Greek music star discusses in an exclusive InCompany by Attire Club feature his songs, the way he connects to his audience and more.

NIKOS VERTIS N Photos: Attire Club

ikos Vertis is a Dutch-Greek singer who has reached international stardom through his catchy songs and heartwarming on-stage charisma.

He started singing and playing music when he was quite young, but officially launched his career in 2003. Since then, he as released 5 studio albums along with a CD single, and two special edition CD/DVD albums. His genre of music is 40

called “modern laika”, which is a combination of traditional Greek music and pop elements. Thus, the result is a type of music that appeals to millions of fans. One of his videos, “Thelo na me nioseis” has, as of April 2018, over 65 million views on YouTube alone.

We met with Nikos at the InterContinental hotel in Bucharest as he was preparing for his two concert nights in a

city where he’s been filling out one of the city’s main concert halls over the last years.

Nikos’ songs are rare and particular, as they transcended many cultural barriers; his songs reach audiences from all over the world, from Europe and China to Israel and even Latin America. The web and social media are also to be given a big credit for Nikos’ international reach. “The internet and YouTube have de-

41

↑The People’s House in Bucharest, the world’s 3rd largest man-made building. ←The Nikos Vertis Bucharest poster for his March 2018 concerts. ↓Screen capture of one of Nikos’ online videos.

stroyed the borders of music” Nikos says as he ponders on his success, continuing by saying that “without it, it would have been very difficult”. In regards to what it is that draws people to his music in terms of style, he believes that it is the difference that captivates people from such different backgrounds. He claims that his music is “something totally different from what they already have in their country”.

Coming back to social media, Nikos uses it not only to distribute his songs, information about his concert dates and pictures, but also to connect to his followers and get their feedback. “Some comments make you better” he says, “sometimes you find messages that allow you to find out something you would otherwise never know”.

H

is connection to his audience and other people’s experiences in general is a big part of what drives his music. His lyrics, which are 42

in general all about love and powerful emotions, are drawn from personal experiences, but not just from his personal experiences. He explains this, saying “if I say my songs are based on personal experiences, it doesn’t necessarily mean that I have live it; maybe it’s something that happened to someone I know – this is also a personal experience. If I have a friend or someone in your family who I see going through something, to me, that’s also a personal experience.”

O

ptimistic by nature, Nikos believes that everyone is empathetic and sees great value in empathy. “Empathy is something that G/d gives us; it’s something that makes us rich.”

The importance of what others feel is a major factor of why his shows are so good. Before walking on stage, Nikos works on putting himself in

a state where he can deliver a great show. “I always pray to have good energy, to give to the people good energy and to make them feel that this show is not just music. Music is energy, music is medicine and this is what we have to give to the fans. When somebody is at home or in the car and plays his favorite song or album, he travels somewhere.

This is a feeling that you have to out during concerts as well, but at a different level and in a different way” he says.

F

or Nikos, there is a real difference between recorded music and live music. Not that one is better than the other, or harder to do, he puts his energy to the same degree in his recorded songs as he does in his live concerts, listening to music on your PC or on a player is different than witnessing it live. And, in the case of Nikos Vertis, that is definitely true.

If, when listening to his recorded songs, one feels that he is softly playing next to you and for you only, his live performances are a shared experience where people meet not

only physically, but also emotionally and discovered their shared experience through the music they witness.

During a Nikos Vertis concert, people dance, wave and sing along. He even has superfans who know the lyrics of his every song, despite them being in Greek and women waving from the back row. Sometimes, knowing the lyrics to the songs is not as important as it may seem: the melodic line carries you through the feelings behind the song, allowing you to place your own experience in them.

For now, Nikos wants to keep concerting and is looking forward to singing in new venues and in halls he’s already familiar with. “The competition is tough� he says, thinking that people have so many options to spend their free time: from reading a book to watching a movie at home or in the cinema, but the fact that they keep coming to his concerts and keep listening to his music digitally shows that what he does works.

To discover when Nikos will come in your town, go to nikosvertis.com 43

A REPORT ON THE PARTY AND THE GUESTS

THERE’S A LOT RIDING ON THIS GAME 44

The resort town of St. Moritz in Switzerland hosted the 34th edition of the Snow Polo World Cup between 26-28 January 2018. Captivating games, glamorous parties and and all-around good mood are the marks of this 5-star event.

45

Photos: Attire Club

COME ALONG FOR THE RIDE The tournament is the only polo contest in the world to take place on a frozen lake. The ice on the lake, which is located at 1768 meters / 5800 feet above sea level, is between 50 cm and 70 cm / 19.6 in and 27.5 in thick and is able to host a 184.6 m x 90.0 m / 201 x 98 yards field. Last year, it took 40 men a total of 5,600 man hours (which is the equivalent of 3 man years) to erect 2,600 tons of tents, fences, grand stands and other infrastructure on the lake in under 3 weeks.

As a luxury alpine resort town, the St. Moritz is known worldwide for attracting the very rich and powerful who have a taste for luxury and great elegance. These things are to be seen everywhere in this small Swiss town: here, one can taste the best food and drinks, sleep in the most sophisticated hotels, enjoy an impressive array of stores of luxury brands, go skiing on some of the world’s most renowned slopes and, once a year, enjoy thrilling snow polo matches.

46

GAMES AND GEMS In fact, St. Moritz has been the host town for every edition of the snow polo tournament since 1985, when the event first took place. In many ways, the town and the tournament make a great pair.

St. Moritz is not just a holiday resort; it is one of the world’s most luxurious places and always ahead of the curve in terms of everything you can imagine. For example the first electric light went on as early as the Christmastime of 1878, the first golf tournament in the Alps took place here in 1889 and one of the first ski lifts in Switzerland began running in 1935. So, when Hanspeter Danuser, St. Moritz’s legendary tourism director came up with the idea of making a snow polo tournament, he made it happen with the help of the amazing Reto Gaudenzi, one of the most impressive polo visionaries of the past decades. And so, a new legendary event was born.

This year, the teams that competed for the cup were team Cartier, who also won last year (and who also won the very first tournament back in the 80s), team Maserati, team Badrutt’s Palace and team Azerbaijan – Land of Fire. During the three days of the tournament, the teams played a series of impressive matches that kept the audiences on their toes to see who would win. In the end, it was Rommy Gianni’s Cartier team who took home the prize again.

47

48

T H E P A R T I E S O F S T. M O R I T Z St. Moritz is not just an exquisite place to be, but it is also highly select and that is what the sport of snow polo is also like. And, as Reto Gaudenzi, “the Godfather of snow polo” said in a press conference during the event, they wish to keep it as such. And that is for a very good reason, since often, when something loses its select character, it changes completely and why would you want to change something that is so amazing?

After the games, the evenings of St. Moritz were also filled with glamour and style, as the visitors and participants of the Snow Polo World Cup partied away at Badrutt’s Palace, Steffani, the Kulm and other nifty places in St. Moritz. There was even a party in Maserati’s St. Moritz show room, where people could also see the latest cars of the Italian brand.

The organizers and sponsors went all out to offer their guests a five star experience. The Snow Polo World Cup was a great event: impressive surroundings, fabulous parties, captivating matches and, above all, fantastic people.

49

50

Read our articles online and see more photos at attireclub.org/2018/02/01/snow-polo-world-cup-2018/ attireclub.org/2018/02/03/the-people-of-the-2018-snow-polo-world-cup-in-st-moritz/ 51

STYLE GUIDE

The Guide to Choosing an Umbrella Photos: Attire Club

For many of us, the rainy season is a time when choosing your clothes and accessories becomes more difficult than the rest of the year. For some us, this happens in the fall, the spring or even all-year round.

The rainy days of the year are best spent inside, but if you need to go out there is one accessory you’ll definitely need, and that is an umbrella.

Choosing an umbrella should not be hard, there are just a few main things you need to consider when picking one.

Let’s take a look together at main things you should look out for when choosing an umbrella:

52

Portability and Context

W

hen you are choosing to buy or to carry an umbrella, you should always consider the way in which you will carry your umbrella and what you will do with it once you get there. Sometimes, you will find that an umbrella that can be collapsed might be more practical, but at other times an already-stretched one can be the solution.

You should take into consideration factors such as how and where you will carry it

and how you will dry it.

For example, in some places there is no room to let an open umbrella dry or there is no room to hang a small umbrella to dry, so you should take those things into consideration as well.

In theory, all umbrellas should be sturdy and strong, but usually traditional (non-compact) umbrellas are stronger in windy conditions, while compact models are more likely to revert when faced with strong wind conditions.

Also, you should remember that a bigger umbrella is not always a good idea. Umbrellas with smaller canopies can be more useful in case of light rain, for children or for walking in crowded spaces.

Style

T

he style of your umbrella, like your clothes, is most likely to be dictated by the setting in which you will use it. Dressier settings require a dressier umbrella, while in casual settings you can go for more options.

Speaking of dressy umbrellas,

these are usually non-compact umbrellas that have a handle covered in leather, faux leather or that’s made of wood and that have rather dark or muted colors.

It also needs to be said that compact umbrellas can have a sleeve that makes them ap-

pear less bulky and more fashion-forward. Compact umbrellas are usually the go-to “just-in-case” umbrellas and can be carried in a bag, backpack or briefcase, so that you don’t add another style element to your look.

53

Size and Shape

T

he size and shape of an umbrella is a very important part of choosing an umbrella. Sometimes, smaller, more discreet umbrellas might seem a better option, but will they protect your body from the rain? A good umbrella usually has a size and a curvature that is just right so that that rain that falls on it slips away around you and that creates a protective area all around you, not

54

just your head. Basically, the larger the canopy, the better it will protect you from precipitation, but the size is relative, as it is in proportion to your size. Generally, umbrellas that collapse have a smaller canopy, so you should always consider that. Finding a model that is both compact and has a large canopy is not easy, but it can be done.

Also, a good umbrella allows you to cover a lot of yourself

by tilting it in case cars are splashing on the street and you need a different type of protection.

Protection

L

ast but not least, the most obvious factor of choosing an umbrella is the protection, which in the case of rain is impermeability.

Don’t go for a decorative umbrella which will be most likely made from a fabric that lets water through – it won’t make any sense. Obviously.

However, should you plan to also use your umbrella as a parasol (meaning as an umbrella that protects you from

the sun), should not go for a transparent model.

The reason why it is important to have a good umbrella is because it will not only be useful, but it will also give you the confidence that you can take on tasks even in the worst of weather. Don’t forget to test an umbrella before you use it for the first time and see if it fits your needs in terms of size, style and shape.

Having a good umbrella will help you better navigate a rainy day and protect your clothes and body.

55

Current Obsessions Baselworld Edition (Obviously!)

Marbel by ALEX BENLO

Master Collection by NOBEL 56

Satellite Wave GPS F990 by CITIZEN

The Classic Durham by DANIEL WELLINGTON

The Kenley by CHARLES BOW TIE

The Dual Time by ADRIATICA 57

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Photographer

Mario Schmolka

Mario Schmolka is an Austrian photographer, who currently lives in Malibu, USA. He was an assistant at Superstudio 13 in Milan, where he participated in projects for clients such as Prada, Versace, Vogue and others. Since then, he has developed his career and worked with celebrities such as Tommy Hilfiger, Aerin Lauder, Karim Rashid, Manolo Blahnik, Bar Rafaeli and his works appeared in publications like Vogue, GQ and Vanity Fair. He was also invited to be a guest lecturer at the Art Institute of NYC and has even released a photobook.

Discover our interview with him!

“For me, a great photograph is one that is timeless, one that you remember and recognize out of thousands” What can you tell us about your background? How did you grow up and became interested in photography?

Mario Schmolka: I grew in the suburbs of Vienna, Austria. I have been drawn to colors and shapes from my early childhood on. I didn’t know that I was going to become a photographer one day, but I did know that I wanted to do something in the creative field. My grades in school were not amazing, but they were OK enough to graduate from high school and eventually go on studying pho58

tography at a college in Vienna. I made the decision to become a photographer at the age of 19 when I served in the military for about 9 months. I met a guy named Gerhard who had come from

that college. Eventually, we became friends and one day he showed me his work and I was stunned by what he was able to do with a camera and lights. His stuff was amazing and that kind of got me into

59

later on I moved to Milan and worked as a studio assistant...

What was your time like during your work as an assistant at Superstudio 13?

photography. As I was very interested in fashion too (wanted to become a designer before that), it was pretty clear what kind of photography I wanted to do. And so, I started to assist, first in Vienna for a really good photographer named Andreas Bitesnich and

MS: That was one of the best experiences in terms of my work. It was great, because as an assistant in such big studios you are involved in large productions all the time. And in many different ones. It has many advantages compared to being an assistant to only one photographer, which has also good sides of course. There is always a pro and a con to everything, I guess...

In your career you have worked with some of the biggest fashion brands, mag-

azines and with some of the most influential people in the industry. How did these experiences influence you personally and your work?

MS: I think every assignment and every project gives you the chance to grow, both artistically and personally. To collaborate with people, which is a necessity in our job, can be challenging at times, but also rewarding because you share your experience and the process of doing it. You create it together, that creates a bond, at least for the time being, sometimes even for a long time. I like long-lasting collaborations, but I also like to work with new people. Both is critical in order to move forward.

What are the ingredients of a great fashion photograph?

YRead this article with a song!

MS: For me, a great photograph is one that is timeless, one that you remember and recognize out of thousands and for your lifetime. There aren’t many out there and with the “contemporary� photography which is a reflection of our time,

60

What are you currently obsessed with, fashion- and otherwise?

increasingly photographs become irrelevant. Not because they are done in a bad way… who am I to judge that, but simply because it is a reflection of the evolution of our society and its consuming behavior.

for a lot of high-level brands, art is a way to show their relevance and legitimacy in the market.

MS: I currently work on different projects, but in general I have discovered the moving image as a form of expressing myself. Of course also that is a result of where the evolution of this business takes you. 10 years ago it was important to be a photographer who knew how to set lights and how to work with different kinds of cameras and techniques. Now this isn’t so critical anymore, people rely a lot on post production processes and the technology that leaves a lot of room for unskilled actions.

Which is fair enough; a lot of great pictures even back in the days were created by failure of some sort. And they are now the most memorable ones. Infact the only way to discover the “new” is by trial and error.

I personally love to work with chances, but I also believe that a good foundation still goes a long way.

Thank you!

What is your take on the commercial – artistic aspect of fashion photography?

MS: I like to think that theycomplement each other. Predominantly commercial photography can be art and vice versa. It all depends on the point of view. We live in times where no successful artist can live without the commercial aspect of selling his art. And, Discover more of Mario’s work at marioschmolka.com

61

TRAVEL & CULTURE

I for

ITALY

Italy is one of the most celebrated cultures in the world. In the end, this is the country from where artists like Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo come from. Italy is the setting for many dreamy films, made both by Italian directors and foreign ones and the land of pizza, pasta and more. Not to mention, it is the home of Prada, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana.

Photos: Attire Club (except for archive images)

62

63

Italian Society WITH 61 MILLION INHABITANTS, Italy is the 5th most populous country in Europe.

ITALY IS ALSO THE FIFTH most visited country in the world, welcoming around 46 million visitors annually.

ITALY HAS THE EIGHTH-LARGEST economy in the world.

ITALY IS THE BIGGEST producer of wine in the world.

TALKING WINE, in 2008, wine started flowing through taps in dozens of homes during a grape festival in Italy due to a technical error.

ly half of all Italian divorce proceedings.

MORE THAN A THIRD OF SINGLE ITALIAN MEN between the ages of 30 and 35 live with their parents.

FIRST NAMES in Italy usually end in -o (for men) and -a (for women).

WHATSAPP is cited in near-

AS OF 2018, Italy is the world’s third country in terms of having the most old people, after Japan and Germany.

ITALY has two independent states entirely contained within its boundaries – San Marino and the Vatican City.

IF YOU WANT TO POST ROMAN POSTCARDS from Vatican City, you can’t use Italian stamps. You’ll have to buy stamps in the Vatican to do so.

64

Italian Culture EUROPE’S OLDEST UNIVERSITY in continuous operation is the University of Bologna, in Italy, founded in 1088.

THERE ARE 50 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Italy, the most of any country.

ROME has 2,500 free-flowing drinking fountains.

BALLET originated in Italy during the 15th century and it was Catherine de Medici who introduced it to France later on.

OTHER MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS invented in Italy include the violin, the guitar, and the organ.

THE FIRST THERMOMETHER was also invented in Italy by Santorio Santorio in 1612.

THE FORK came to Italy before any other European country because of pasta.

SPEAKING OF FOOD, the original recipe for margherita pizza was for a tri-color version of the Italian flag basil (green), tomatoes (red) and mozzarella (white).

THE COLORS OF THE ITALIAN FLAG –green, white, and red–have special meaning. Green represents hope, white represents faith, and red signals charity.

THE USE OF PASTA has been traced in Italy back to the 4th century B.C. WHEN DUBBING AMERICAN FILMS, the same voice actor will follow an American actor throughout their filmography and career.

THERE ARE ONLY 21 LETTERS in the standard Italian alphabet.

The Italian alphabet doesn’t have the letters J, K, W, X or Y. 65

YRead this article with a song!

ITALY HAS MORE MASTERPIECES per square mile than any other country in the world.

BARTOLOMEO CRISTOFORI developed the very first piano in 1698 in Italy.

IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Fashion Designer

Elena Dimitrova

Elena Dimitrova is a Bulgarian fashion designer whose creations are often a combination between classic menswear and unconventional materials. We wanted to learn more about what makes her tick.

In the interview we did with her, we discovered her interest for identity and how she sees masculinity.

“I like to create a strong image and unconventional materials can be very powerful and an unexpected part of it” What can you tell us about your background? How did you grow up and how did your up-bringing influence your creative interests?

Elena Dimitrova: I grew up in Bulgaria, where I got a BA in Fashion Design. Currently I’m based in London where I’m doing my Masters in Fashion Design with a menswear pathway, which is the main thing for me right now.

Unlike the typical creative person, I like to plan my life and I’m disciplined and committed to what I’m doing.

During my BA I went from realizing that I wanted to do menswear to applying at the best fashion schools and then I got into one of them. The last four years were very intense. My style has changed since I moved to London in a good way. I had to fill in some gaps and now it’s more com66

plete and wearable; my voice is clearer.

Your clothes have not only a practical aspect, but also an artistic one. What can you tell us about your artistic approach to fashion?

ED: I believe the reason for that is because my interests don’t end with fashion and styling and this brings many layers to my designs. The music from the 60s, 70s and 80s is a massive influence to me. I’m very interested in art, subcultures and underground movements; at the same time I’m interested in botany. I do photography, in fact I shot some of my projects myself.

What I do kind of goes beyond the usual “fashion designer” role and when you clash everything together, is where my work stands.

67

Sometimes, I even compare my work to creative and art direction. I love strong images that leave you with questions but never without an opinion.

sometimes can be limiting and, as I said, I like to create a strong image and unconventional materials can be very powerful and an unexpected part of it.

dominance is no longer relevant and the man in my work is not afraid to express emotions, to feel and to be weak.

He’s free from his subconscious fears.

In your work, you explore very much masculinity.

What is your take on what masculinity is today in the world?

Do you think you have a different perspective since you are a woman?

ED: I believe that the field itself - menswear - consists of exploring masculinity. Every menswear designer has an opinion and an approach to it, sometimes it’s just not that visible.

Who are some of your favorite artists and which art movements influence you the most?

ED: At the moment I follow the work of Luke Edward Hall. I even bought some pieces already.

During my MA I was very influenced by dandyism and the work of Delacroix and Cecil Beaton. I like Yves Klein, Wolfgang Tillmans, Matt Lambert, Robert Mapplethorpe, Henry Scott Tuke, Stephen Tennant, Kris Knight to name a few.

Why and how do you use unconventional materials?

ED: I don’t go for unconventional materials every time, because in the end it’s menswear. I really need to have a reason to use them. Fabrics 68

ED: The only difference could be my approach. I often receive comments from my male counterparts that it’s rather romantic, exposing and sensitive in a way. The same goes to the fabric and color choices.

How do you think menswear and masculinity will evolve over the next years?

ED: The last few years were very dynamic and strong for men’s fashion. You can definitely see how some designers are questioning the current state of masculinity. I think this was just the first wave.

What do you think will be the main trends in fashion in the near future?

My work is focused on questioning the current state of it, which I call “toxic masculinity” and it goes beyond the way men dress, which hasn’t change that much for the last century. It’s about understanding it and exploring it on a very psychological level and at the same time I’m offering new perspectives and viewpoints on masculinity without disrespecting the man. The idea of power and

ED: Gender and diversity are the main themes in fashion at the moment and I think they will only grow and develop in the future. I can’t say that this will be a revolution, because things like that can’t change overnight but these two themes will be leading in fashion (and not only) for the next few years.

Thank you!

To discover more of Elena’s designs, go to elenadimitrova.men

Great fashion is the basis for great style 69

STYLE GUIDE

9 Tips to Maintain Your Ties Photo: Attire Club

A quality tie can be an investment , which is why you always want to make the best and most of the ties you like to wear. Knowing how to maintain a tie will help you keep your neckwear in better condition for a longer time.

Here are some tips to know to help you keep your ties in shape: { One thing that you need to watch out is stains. Some people even recomment that you don’t wear your best silk tie when you go to lunch, but wear a bow tie instead. Sometimes,you can tuck your tie in your shirt. { If you do get a stain on your tie, blot the stain with cold water. Club soda works well too! If you get grease or something similar on your tie, sprinkle the stain with a lot of talcum powder, as it will absorb the grease.

After a few hours, brush off what’s left. { Try not to wear the same tie two days in a row. Just like with shoes, letting them “breathe” for at least a day helps your ties keep their shape and crisp. { Carefully untie the knot when you need to. Don’t pull your tie in any weird direction, as it might stretch and go bad. Just do what you did when you tied it, but in reverse! { Ties should be stored upright, so it would be recommended to have a a tie rack in your closet. { Keeping your ties stored hanging down, due to gravity, they won’t have wrinkles and the darkness of your closet will keep the colors bright (yes, sunlight does wash away the colors of your clothes. { Don’t iron a tie! If you don’t know what to do, just hang it in the shower (don’t get it wet, just let the steam do the work). Keep it like that for about 15 minutes. { If you do need to iron a tie because it’s wrinkles are way too deep, iron it on the part that is not visible when you are wearing it. You’ll need a cotton cloth to lie over the tie, for example a napkin or pillowcase are ok. { Even though most ties are dry-clean only, you should do that as rare as you can, as the chemicals used in the process can damage your tie too.

70

SECRETS OF FASHION

4 Women’s Style Elements that were

First Worn by Men There are many fashion items that are considered in most parts of the world to be exclusively feminine.

Even in the light of the gender-bending movement that is going on especially in the Western world, certain fashion and styling items are associated in today’s culture with femininity.

But this has not always been the case. Some things that we today think of as exclusively feminine have their origins in men’s fashion and style.

Here are the backstories of 4 items.

Makeup Makeup has been a part of the world’s culture for many years. In fact, it dates back some 10000 years ago. When tribal men used to go out to hunt or fight in battle, they would paint themselves. It all started as a way of camouflaging oneself, but it soon turned into more. For example, in some tribes, people used to wear makeup for fight in order to intimidate their opponent.

In around 4000 BC, makeup was already an important part of high society. For example, in Egypt, kings like Tutankhamen wore heavy makeup which already had a symbolic value. Tutankhamen and the important men of the court used to wear a green shade, which was believed to evoke the God of Sky and Sun. In Chinese and Japanese cultures, men wore nail polish as early as 3000 BC to show their social status.

Roman men were some of the first to engage in using makeup for cosmetic purposes only: they painted the top of their heads to conceal baldness and used powder to lighten their faces.

Ramses III (around 1186–1155 BC) Egypt

72

Jewelry

18th century portrait of King Louis I of Hungary by Marcello Bacciarelli

The jewelry we associate today with women, such as necklaces, rings and bracelets was originally worn most by men.

High-status men that is. The peak of men wearing jewelry was during the Renaissance, when it was important for men to visually convey their wealth and implicit power. Men used to wear not just precious metals, but gemstones such as rubies, sapphires and others. While this may seem clear from paintings, one thing that is not very much known is that earrings were also a symbol of masculine power.

Heels Some people know that the French nobility used to wear heels and red soles, but what many people don’t know is that men wearing heels goes back to ancient Egypt. Murals from the time showcase men wearing heels. This set them way apart from the working classes: not only were the nobles and men of authority wearing shoes, which the lower class did not have, but they were physically above everyone else.

1701 portrait of Louis XIV of France by Hyacinthe Rigaud

Heels were worn during ceremonies and also came handy to some. For example, butchers had to walk between animal carcasses, and the heels helped them avoid getting stained. The practical aspect of heels was what made them fashionable in Europe centuries later, as they were originally worn to help men place their feet more easily on a stirrup while riding a horse.

73

Young Boy with Whip (1840) Anonymous American School painting

Pink Yes, pink being a men’s color is one of those things that is hard to believe. It seems that the associating with girliness and the color pink is so old that we don’t even know when it started. But that is not true. In fact, at the end of the 19th century, pink was a boy’s color (and little boys used to wear dresses until they became 5 or 6). In fact, even in the early 1900s, young guys would confidently sport pink dress shirts (the first of which was actually created by Brooks Brothers) as part of their Ivy League wardrobe. It all changed in the beginning of the 20th century, more specifically in 1927, when Time magazine released a chart that highlighted gender-appropriate colors, in accordance to the time’s leading US retailers such as Best & Co., Halle’s or Marshall Field. The chart suggested that parents dress their boys in pink and their girls in blue.

However, it wasn’t long before all this changed. And it seems that the reason was purely an economic one. If until the 1920s, when a couple had a second child, the child would simply wear his older sibling’s used clothes; but now, if the child was of a different sex, he or she would need a whole new set of clothes to fit in with social norms.

the standard that pink is a color for girls and blue for boys.

Maybe it also has something to do with the fact that society started more and more to see men as cold and distant, thus associating them with a cold color and girls as warm and approachable, thus associating them with pink. Despite this, scientific studies from that time indicate that, in fact, both genders preferred blue to pink.

The colors and gender trends swapped during the 1940s, for no apparent reason, but it wasn’t long until it became

Fashion and style are always evolving as they reflect the social and cultural landscape of a group or of the entire world.

74

It is very likely that many of the things we see today in a certain light will be seen in another tomorrow. Clothes and style in general are a reflection of the way in which we see ourselves and each other, they reflect the politics of a time and the ethics of a group in a given space and time as well, which is why the way we express ourselves visually is very important and relevant and has a high anthropological value.

FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY

When Fashion and Technology Merge: An InCompanyt AttirehClub Overview Images: Attire Club

Attire Club places a great accent on the development of new ways of approaching fashion. We focus not only on new design concepts, but we also concentrate on the latest innovations in terms of wearable technology, new fabrics and other innovative processes.

In each issue of the InCompany by Attire Club magazine, we feature the endeavors of people of creative to take the clothing world one step further. Each issue features at least a “Fashion Ahead” spread and an interview focusing on these topics.

Thus, we garner a good overview of how clothing can help us have a better living experience and how it can play more roles in our lives than before.

Wearable Technology

A

s we were discussing in the July 2016 issue with researchers and scientists Deepika Raj and Dr. Jung Ha-Brookshire from the University of Missouri, USA, in the future, WT (wearable tech) will become in a cultural way a part of nature.

76

A lot of focus today is placed on wearable technology.

heart and convey the wearer’s state or emotions.

In the July 2016 issue of InCompany by Attire Club, we also featured Sensoree, a brand that develops clothes which have the ability to scan one’s body and reflect through colors what they detect: they can scan the brain and the

Similarly, but with a more medical approach, Hexoskin, the company led by Pierre-Alexandre Fournier, who was featured in the January 2018 edition of the magazine, creates clothes that scan the wearer’s body and provide

him with valuable information on his tablet. The clothes

by Hexoskin can give precious insights into one’s sleep, heart rate and other parameters.

Sometimes, WT can help the wearer navigate easier or make decisions about where to go. In this sense, the Bright BMBR jacket by Rochambeau, featured in the December 2016 issue of the magazine, helps the wearer carry the internet with him and obtaining information through his jacket.

Fabrics As nanotechnologies develop, so do clothes. In this sense, scientists from all over the world have created fabrics from the most surprising materials with incredible and unexpected outcomes.

around creating materials from mushroom roots. If you get a hole in one of those pieces, you can just grow it back and, when the garment is not wearable anymore, it will simply decay, not harming the environment.

great exhibits. The wine dress for example, due to fermentation, changes its size. Talk about clothes that get to grow on you.

Sometimes though, science has some entertaining results.

Australian “creative scientist” Gary Cass discussed in the December 2015 issue about his dresses made from wine, beer and even champagne.

While these are not necessarily meant to be worn on an everyday basis, they make for

For example, in the July 2017 issue, we discussed with Pauline Guesne who is one of the people behind a fabric that does not stain. The long-awaited fabric on which you can spill anything from coffee to wine without leaving any stain is now a reality thanks to Le Lab. One of the most impressive is Anke Domaske of QMilk’s fabric made from milk protein. Her fabric is not treated chemically and is just what people with skin issues need.

Moreover, the fabric has healing properties.

In the October 2016 issue, we introduced our readers to the work of Aniela Hoitinik from Neffa. Aniela’s work revolves 77

Moreover, in the January 2018 issue of our publication, we featured the beautiful works of Anastasia Ruiz, who creates bags with 3D-printed appliques. These are very soft and without the 3D printing technique would not have been very accessible.

Custom experiences When it comes to fashion and style, a big part of it is represented by the shopping experience, which is complementary to the clothes.

In the October 2016 issue, we presented the Magic Mirror, invented by ThisPlay.

The Magic Mirror is a project that is quite amazing, but that has, in our opinion a lot of potential and can be taken to a whole new level in the future. The Magic Mirror works as follows: a person stands in front of it and sees him or herself in another set of clothes.

They can move and turn and the clothes follow. We believe that in the future, such a concept could be integrated in an online shopping platform.

Imagine this: when you are browsing through clothes online, you can try on clothes in the Mirror through the “Internet of Things” technology, see how you look and decide whether to order the item or not. It can be a game changer.

78

Also, in a world where we can enjoy so many advances, having custom clothes is very important. Especially in fields such as sports. Entrepreneur and innovator Frank Wautier of Kalypse has developed together with his team a brand that offers wetsuits created on the wearer’s body.

The process works easily: the wearer’s body is first scanned and a wetsuit with the precise measurements is made.

This helps the swimmer have an improved experience. In a competitive setting, such a detail can change a photo finish outcome.

3D Printing The new ways of making clothes and accessories has the potential to make the way we consume and look at clothes change in the near future. A big part of that is 3D printing. In the April 2017 edition of IC X AC, we presented the first ever 3D-printed at home collection, which was designed by Israeli student (at the time) Danit Peleg.

Other techniques such as laser drawing are also very important. Elvira t’Hart’s work, featured in the October 2017 issue, is based on this technology is still quite new, but it is embraced in more avant-garde and artistic circles.

The world of textiles, wearable technology and fashion is definitely cornerstone in society today. InCompany

by Attire Club has featured many types of captivating innovations: from bow ties with lichens to a leather-like fabric made from pineapples.

The novelties of today are the mainstream of tomorrow and having an overview of what is going on at the top of the fashion world is definitely a great window into what’s to come. The trend is definitely moving towards not just electrical technology, but also towards a new way of merging with nature. In this process, it is our responsibility to remain humble and not to get over our heads.

These technologies are already available, so they’re not so much about the future as they are about the present – making the best of today will help you make the best of tomorrow.

Fashion Ahead Ballet Calligraphy by

Lesia Trubat

E-Traces is an invention of Lesia Trubat Gonzalez. Using LilyPad Arduino, it is an electronic device that works as a wearable attachment to a ballet dancer’s shoes and feet. The goal is to trace the movements of the wearer in a visual form. This results in a digitally painted expression of the dance. From a practical point of view, it can be used to compare the movements of one dancer to those of another.

Moreover, this visual represenation of a dance is a remarkable endeavor in creativity, that bridges the world of the visual with that of the movement.

This invention is a great represenation of not only the ways in which arts can merge, but also tells a personal story; Lesia being highly interested in both product design, graphic design and dance.

It’s a fresh and bold idea that shows how technology can often be at the forefront of the arts.

80

For more, please visit cargocollective.com/lesiatrubat

81

THE ATTIRE CLUB MOOD DIARY 82

Our mood board as a visual journal

Racinet’s L’Ornement Polychrome Auguste Racinet was an 19th century French illustrator, painter and author who is considered a prominent observer of French costumes, He has created many books on costumes and ornaments, which have been reprinted many times.

“L’Ornement Polychrome” is a book initially issued in 10 parts, which features 100 boards in color, gold and silver, containing about 2000 motifs of all styles, from ancient and Asian art to the art of the Middle Ages, Renaissance, 17th and 18th century.

83

84

85

86

87

88

89

AC WORLD

Nurit David: The Liev Arts Interview Born in 1952 in Tel Aviv, Nurit David is one of Israel’s most prominent visual artists. Since 1982, she has worked with the Givon Gallery and exhibited in many places. Her paintings can also be found in the public collections of museums such as the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, the Tel Aviv Museum of Art and the Jewish Museum of New York.

Her works are mostly paintings, but she has also created installations. Nurit’s themes and style have morphed throughout her career, but one thing has remained constant: the creation of a sensitive and personal organic architectural visual path which defines a whole world in each painting is what describes her body of work best.

We were honored to be able to interview Nurit for our Liev Arts website and to get her insight into art, inspiration and her career.

In the feature, Nurit looks back at her interest in art and painting, recalling “my parents immigrated to Israel from Hungary in 1949 and I was born 3 years later. As a child and as an adolescent I wished to be a writer – either a poet or a playwright. It was a very vague idea though, being without any real talent or knowledge of what it entails. In my early adolescence I used to copy paintings from reproductions, mainly impressionists.” In regards to her influences, she explains that most of her inspiration comes from literature, which could also explain the narrative character of her paintings. “My main influences come from literature – Georg Buechner, Joyce and Eliot, Yosef Haim Brenner, Natsume Soseki and the list is endless. Cinema is also important – to mention only the three greatest directors in my opinion – Yasujiro Ozu, Eric Rohmer and Abbas Kiarostami” she says.

Discussing her vision of “building” a painting, Nurit explains that “art, and painting especially, being framed, was a means to create a sense of place – I almost see painting as a construction site.”

Pondering on today’s art and her role in it, Nurit states that “there is a demand now from art to be useful in a common sense way to society, which I reject. I feel that strong emphasis on form and shape can bring a fresh breeze into this suffocating politicly correct atmosphere.”

90 Read the full interview at lievarts.com/life-maps-an-interview-with-nurit-david

SUBSCRIPTION

Subscribe to InCompany by Attire Club to make sure you receive your beautiful print copy of each edition.

With a focus on quality and sophistication, InCompany by Attire Club magazine explores the fashion world in an original and creative manner. Featuring interviews with creative talents, style guides, stunning photography and carefully curated products and travel recommendations, the goal of the magazine is to present more than the typical fashion publication.

Capturing a compelling image of the fashion world, the issue covers both the independent and mainstream areas of fashion and from the very ethnic and old-school to the latest high-tech innovations.

Go to attireclub.tictail.com to buy the subscription for just $102 (about â‚Ź86) or just scan the QR code on the left.

QR Code Glossary

Discover the websites featured in this issue!

Amaze London u amaze-london.com Page 2

Namidori Shoes u namidori.com Page 71

WolfStyle u wolfstyle.blog Page 13

Picchiotti u picchiotti.it Page 75

Miguel Ă ngel Bellido u instagram.com/ miguelangel_bellido Page 38

Mont 5 u mont5.com Page 79

Mahi Leather u mahileather.com Page 39

Lesia Trubat u cargocollective.com/lesiatrubat Page 81

Nikos Vertis u nikosvertis.com Page 43

Liev Arts u lievarts.com Pages 90, 93

Mario Schmolka u marioschmolka.coma Page 61

Pieter Petros u pieterpetros.com/ Page 95

Elena Dimitrova u elenadimitrova.men Page 68 92

LievArts.com

Vibrating Art

See you online! attireclub.org facebook.com/attireclub twitter.com/attireclub pinterest.com/attireclub instagram.com/attireclub attireclub.tumblr.com vk.com/attireclub shop@ attireclub.tictail.com

Philip Malyavin – Portrait of Konstantin Andreyevich Somov 1895

IChAC