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WILD ABOUT WILD TONIC
Wild Tonic's Jun Kombucha is one of Arizona's most unique craft beverages.
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CHULA SEAFOOD Chula Seafood is bringing the and most sustainable fish to
freshest Arizona.
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A WEEKEND IN JEROME
One of Arizona's smallest yet most iconic cities is filled with stuff to do.
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STILL IS THE NIGHT: COCKTAIL RECIPE Join us as we chat with mixologist TJ Natole about a his new take on a classic.
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MARK TARBELL
Meet one of Arizona F&B's most well-regarded chefs and mentors.
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OLD ELLSWORTH BREWING CO. Old Ellsworth is one of our favorite Arizona brewpubs. Their food and beer are top notch.
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STEAKHOUSES THAT SIZZLE Find an exceptional, establishment to sink
local fine-dining your teeth into!
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SWEET PLACES IN THE VALLEY Milkshakes, boba, pies, and even smores! You better bring your sweet tooth for this one!
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CHI V.S. NY PIZZA IN PHX Learn about two totally different styles of pizza. Each delicious in there own crispy way.
CHECK US OUT ONLINE We've got videos, podcasts, and more on AZ's best F&B at www.ATasteofAZ.com
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PUBLISHER’ S NOTE WHY SUPPORT LOCAL? There are so many reasons to keep your dollars local. When you spend your money at independent, Arizona owned businesses the effects are drastic. First of all, supporting small businesses keeps more of your money in the local economy. That leads to more investment in our state and a more robust economy. Many local chefs also use the funds they generate to give back to an endless list of good causes. From preparing lunches for underpriveledged children, or helping people break into the industry, so many chefs and owners try to make Arizona a better place. You may not always be able to keep your money local, but the more you do the stronger Arizona will be. A very special thanks to each of our wonderful contributors. Without them we wouldn't come close to sharing all the stories that inspire us. We recommend you check out each of them on social media as they cover so many other fantastic people and places.
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A TASTE OF AZ TEAM Publishers
Luke Irvin Eric Walters
Writers
Christina Barrueta Alison Bailin Batz Steven Larson Marci Symington Luke Irvin Eric Walters
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Luke Irvin
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WILD ABOUT WILD TONIC Written by Christina Barrueta Photographed by Luke Irvin “Every day we can wake up and live an artful life,” says Holly Lyman, and she practices what she preaches. Her journey as fermenter and founder of Wild Tonic jun kombucha began in Alaska, in a log cabin her father built. “We lived in a communal-type living situation with a lot of artists and hippies,” she recounts. “My grandmother was an artist and fermenter, but I didn’t realize the impact on me until later>” She shares how her grandmother would make wine out of dandelions and blueberries that Lyman helped harvest. “My family lived in harmony with nature and showed a tremendous amount of respect for it,
and as I grew up that imprinted on me.” In the ensuing years, Holly would attend the prestigious Rhode Island School of Design and manage the studio of renowned glass artist William Morris. She also worked in encaustic, an ancient art of painting with pigmented beeswax. During this time, she discovered Sandor Katz’s book, The Art of Fermentation, and developed a hobby which became a passion and new creative outlet. “I experimented with making milk and water kef irs and fermenting beers, and became fascinated with the idea that there was a whole living world within 12
brewery in Cottonwood, Arizona. Lyman credits her hard-working team. “It’s a wonderful community of people who are so passionate about what they do every day. I couldn’t do it without them; they’re the soul behind the business.”
each ferment,” says Lyman. “It was a natural transition f rom my art made with beeswax to fermenting with honey, and I decided I had to bring this unique ferment to the world. It’s so energizing and so life-giving; I wanted to share it with a wider audience.”
Delicious flavors range f rom best-sellers such as Blueberry Basil and Raspberry Goji Rose, to seasonal specials of Chai Pear and Rosemary Lemon. “We source ingredients in a very mindful way,” says Lyman. “Our tea is f rom a farm in Bangladesh that supports a whole community of women, and our organic honey is f rom a family in Brazil who have been beekeeping for generations and treat their bees with respect.” Wild Tonic also has a line of hard (alcoholic)
Jun (“it rhymes with fun” says Lyman) is a fermented beverage that differs f rom traditional kombucha. It’s made with honey and green tea instead of sugar and black tea. “It doesn’t have the vinegar overtones of normal kombucha,” explains Lyman. “It’s considered the champagne of kombuchas and has a beautiful flavor prof ile.” What began as a 3,000 square foot space expanded quickly to the current 36,000 square feet 13
“
Every day we can wake up and live an artful life. -Wild Tonic Founder Holly Lyman
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kombucha at 5.6% and 7.6% ABV. “It’s a whole new focus on a better-for-you beverage. And I was curious and couldn’t stop experimenting,” laughs Lyman.
can now be ordered on-line and shipped directly to your door (including the hard versions if you live in Arizona). Look for the upcoming release of a new caffeinef ree energy drink made with rare botanicals. “It’s exciting,” says Lyman. “It’s made with adaptogenic herbs that are incredibly good for the body and you get an incredible buzz.”
In addition, Lyman grows flavoring components on a 40-acre organic farm on the banks of Oak Creek in nearby Sedona. Planted alongside grapevines, herbs, ginger, and turmeric plants are 2000 heirloom apple trees. “We use our tea leaves as mulch in our orchards,“ she adds. “Having a farm roots us to the earth, roots the drink to the earth, and gives us a truly local flavor in so many ways.”
“It’s a huge responsibility for businesses to help people understand the importance of sourcing their food,” notes Lyman. “I love being able to bring this wonderful ancient ferment to the world and helping people feel better through its health benef its.”
What does the future hold? Currently available in restaurants, shops, and grocers such as AJ's Fine Foods, Safeway, Albertson’s and Whole Foods, Wild Tonic
“In the beginning, it was a dream,” says Lyman, “and now that dream is living me.” 15
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Chula Seafood Writer: Marci Symington
Photographer: Luke Irvin his wife Mandy, a Washington native, in college at ASU. They both share a love of food and recognized the lack of decent quality fish in Arizona for the retail consumer. This idea was reinforced when Mandy worked at Common Ground Culinary for Chef Chris Collins, and Jon and Mandy started asking the question, “Why can high quality fish only be available to restaurants and hotels? Why can’t everyone see that same product?”
It may be hard to believe that you can find great seafood in a landlocked state like Arizona. Lucky for us, seafood enthusiasts Jon and Mandy Heflin and Hogan Jamison (pictured right to left), founders of Chula Seafood, made it their mission to bring the highest quality fish to the desert. Jon Heflin is an Arizona native who has been around deep sea fishing his whole life, having been raised in a family that is passionate for the sport. He met
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what we had and made it great. His ability to build flavor is second to none...he sees it from a scientific standpoint and understands why certain flavors go together.”
Jon’s father had caught swordfish out of San Diego for many years, and had established connections within the fishing community. Jon and Mandy bought a van and started transporting the fresh fish from the wharf in San Diego to Phoenix, sometimes completing the round trip in a day. They began supplying a few select restaurants and chefs in the Valley, such as Chris Collins, Atlas Bistro, FnB, and Sam Fox. By fostering these contacts, they were able to build a retail presence selling fish in Vincent’s Saturday market.
The Chula Scottsdale location, affectionately called Rosie, quickly became the place where chef’s went to eat seafood. Juan churned out tasting platters of sashimi and smoked fish, dishes that were not originally on the menu. The power of social media changed that, with customers flocking to Chula to try the dishes they saw on Instagram.
With the idea of providing quality fish to consumers on a larger scale, Jon and Mandy decided to open a brick and mortar on Scottsdale Road and Roosevelt, and named it Chula Seafood. Jon turned to a Hogan Jamison, a friend who grew up fishing with Jon and who had an established career at Fox Restaurant Concepts. Hogan was skeptical at first, telling Jon, “You’ll never sell swordfish in this town”. But Jon was dedicated, hiring Hogan to help build the menu at Chula, realizing quickly that Hogan, with his vast knowledge of the restaurant business, needed to be one of the owners.
Within five years, the demand for Chula seafood took off. Says Mandy, “ I think we started a seafood movement.” Chula Seafood soon developed the reputation, in both the retail market and the restaurant world, as the best seafood purveyor in Arizona. In 2019, a second Chula location opened in Uptown Plaza, followed by a wholesale operation in the Scottsdale Airpark, which is a processing facility open by appointment only. Jon and Mandy feel Chula has distinguished themselves from their competition with their “respect for the animal from ocean, to boat, to plate”, along with a strong company culture.
Their next hire came from Atlas Bistro, a chef by the name of Juan Zamora. Explains Hogan, “We wouldn’t be here today without Juan. He took
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is another thing to be able to put that out in the market in a way that hasn’t been done before.”
Included in their “fish fam” is the crew on their custom Hoquiam yacht out of San Diego headed by captain, Johnny Foster, who uses two methods to catch swordfish: hand harpoon and deep set buoy. These two methods target the swordfish directly, enabling the crew to harvest and dispatch the fish in an efficient, less stressful manner, resulting in a better tasting fish. In addition, unlike net fishing, which can collect a lot of bycatch, such as dolphin, turtles, and shark, Chula does not harvest any other wildlife than what it will take to market.
What’s next for Chula Seafood? They plan an expansion at Uptown with the addition of a bar and patio. They would also like to open more storefronts around town, such as in North Scottsdale and Gilbert. Chula plans to continue providing Arizona with the highest quality fish and to make it as easy as possible, having added home delivery service and the ability to order directly on website. Ever experimenting, Chula Uptown hosts Monday night dinners highlighting dishes such as Korean fried chicken, New Mexican enchiladas, and Birria tacos.
In addition to harvesting and selling swordfish, Chula has an extensive network of fishermen in San Diego and throughout the Baja peninsula that supply their operation. They pride themselves in showcasing what is available and fresh, from tuna, oysters, urchin, and rockfish to California halibut. Plus, they take cuttings and scraps to develop unique recipes. A popular example is the Swordfish Cubano at Uptown Market, available only on Mondays, or Chef Kyle Kent’s candied salmon (scraps of salmon smoked and processed almost like jerky). Chula also takes the collar of swordfish and smokes it to make chorizo swordfish. Hogan explains, “It is one thing to get your hands on some of the best swordfish, it
Chula Seafood, with their mission to provide the best quality product to the public, has fostered a movement in the valley where people are interested in knowing where their fish is caught and how it was harvested. Chula provides accountability and transparency, educating the consumer at the same time. Part of the company culture is a respect for the animal, alongside their network of employees. They have the ability to process the fish and use the product in ways consumers have never seen before. As a result, Chula has established itself as the iconic fish market in Arizona.
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A WEEKEND IN JEROME Written by Christina Barrueta
Photographed by Luke Irvin
While destinations such as the Grand Canyon and Sedona remain top tourist draws, Arizona’s smaller towns off the beaten path hold a special charm. Jerome, a former mining town located approximately two hours north of Phoenix, is one of those noteworthy destinations. Founded in 1876 and once crowned the "Wickedest Town in the West," it also became known as one of America’s largest ghost towns when its last copper mine closed in 1953. At 5,200 feet above sea level, “America’s Most Vertical City” offers scenic views from its lofty perch on Cleopatra Hill. Designated a National Historic Landmark in 1967, it’s now a unique tourist and arts destination for travelers who visit to enjoy its relaxed vibe and Arizona vistas.
Where to Stay
The Clinkscale Hotel, Bar + Grill is the newest addition to Jerome’s lodging options. Built in 1899 as a mercantile, its prime location on Main Street means the town’s galleries, restaurants and wineries are mere steps away. The lower level houses one of the town’s best restaurants, while above, six individually decorated rooms feature hardwood floors, well-appointed bathrooms, and plush bedding. Tip: The Memories of the Heart guestroom is a personal favorite and offers a view overlooking Main Street and the Verde Valley.
PG 25
Where to Wine With Jerome’s proximity to nearby vineyards, wine tasting rooms are abound. All are within walking distance of each other, including The Original Jerome Winery (owner John McLoughlin), Caduceus Cellars and Four Eight Wineworks (Maynard James Keenan), and Passion Cellars and Cabal Cellars (Jason Domanico). To explore a variety of winemakers at one spot, visit Vino Zona in the historic Kelly House. Here owner Ginger McKenzie curates a thoughtful list, seeking out smaller producers and hard-to-source wines. Tip: Look for bottles personally signed by the winemaker. PG 26
The Haunted Hamburger has been a long-time Jerome destination, so be prepared for a wait during busy season. Ask for a seat on the patio with its views of the Verde Valley and order the Haunted Hamburger piled high with bacon, cheese, mushrooms, green chiles, and guacamole. Grapes is another local favorite, known for its wine dinners, with a menu offering choices from soups and salads to pastas and pizza. Another must-visit is the Asylum Restaurant at the Jerome Grand Hotel. While a popular dinner destination, lunchtime takes advantage of striking views from its location at the top of the town. If you’re staying at the Clinkscale, you don’t have far to go for some of the best food in town. Settle in for brunch (beignets, French omelette, hot chicken and biscuits), lunch (fish tacos, steamed mussels, grilled cheese and tomato soup), or dinner (shrimp and grits, chicken Milanese, wood-grilled porterhouse). They’re also known for expertly crafted cocktails – try the Harvey Wallbanger (seen on the left) or the Southwest Sangria. Tip: Mimosas are a penny with any brunch item weekdays until noon.
Where to Dine
PG 27
Where to Go History buffs will want to stop in at the Jerome Historical Society Mine Museum with its displays and artifacts recounting Jerome’s mining heyday. Save an afternoon to roam Jerome State Historic Park and Douglas Mansion for an in-depth education on Jerome’s history via exhibits, films and historical vignettes. Peruse the art galleries, such as The Jerome Artists Cooperative Gallery and award-winning Pura Vida Gallery. Stroll among the unique shops such as The Miner’s Pick Rock Shop where you’ll find beautiful gemstones, crystals and carved wood pieces, Amore Pin-Up Boutique with its vintage fashions, and Nellie Bly Kaleidoscopes, which boasts the largest collection of handmade kaleidoscopes in the world. Tip: If you have a sweet tooth, make a beeline to Rickeldoris Candy & Popcorn Co. for candy, popcorn and chocolates or Copper Country Fudge (pictured above) for ice cream and homemade fudge. PG 28
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STILL IS THE NIGHT
Cocktail Recipe
Written by Christina Barrueta Photographed by Luke Irvin
May 22 is National Craft Distiller Day and the best way to celebrate is with a prized local spirit in your glass. Tempe-based Adventurous Stills, a grain-to-glass operation, draws its name from both the founders’ penchant for outdoor explorations, and for their adventurous choices of grains and production methods. Thus, you’ll find unique limited-editions such as quinoa whiskey or barrel-rested gin, along with awardwinning rum, vodka, agave spirits, and more traditional-style whiskeys. “Fossil Creek Whiskey is one of my favorites,” says TJ Natole, bar manager at Anhelo in downtown Phoenix. “It has a nice spicy note right in the beginning that you taste at the tip of your tongue. Then it mellows out and leans towards bourbon in the way it finishes with a touch of vanilla and sweetness. “ To create his cocktail, TJ was inspired by the Black Manhattan. A modern-day classic, it replaces the vermouth in the Manhattan triumvirate of vermouth, whiskey and bitters with Amaro Averna (a Sicilian bitter liqueur). “I wanted to change that to a split with both vermouth and Averna,” explains Natole. “Although the Cocchi Barolo is not really a vermouth – it’s more of a fortified wine – I love the velvety richness and Barolo wine characteristics. “ “You’ll find the Fossil Creek whiskey blends beautifully with the richness of the Cocchi Barolo,” he notes, “and the bitters help pull out the toffee sweetness and spices in the Averna. It’s just a gorgeous drink.”
COCKTAIL RECIPE
STILL IS THE NIGHT - 2 oz Adventurous Stills Fossil Creek whiskey - 0.5 oz Cocchi Barolo Chinato
- 0.5 oz Amaro Averna - 2 dashes of Angostura bitters
- Ice - Orange peel garnish
Pour whiskey, Cocchi Barolo, and Averna into a cocktail mixing glass and add bitters. Add ice. Stir quickly for about 15-20 seconds so that the drink is chilled, but not overly diluted. Strain into a cocktail coupe. Flame or twist the orange peel over the drink to express the oils, and add to the glass. Make this cocktail at home, or try it on the menu at Anhelo in downtown Phoenix.
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CHEFS GIVE US A FRY STAR REVIEW Find our frites
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Mark Tarbell
Six Degrees of Separation The six degrees of separation theory, made famous in pop culture with Six Degrees of Kevin Bacon, proposes that any two people are within six connections of each other. For esteemed Valley chef and restauranteur Mark Tarbell (pictured on the right), these associations are often found in far fewer steps. At Tarbell’s, his eponymous eatery that opened in 1994, and later the addition of Tarbell’s Tavern and Tarbell’s Wine Store, time spent in his restaurants has served as a springboard for some of the Valley’s shining F&B stars. As a two-time Arizona Culinary Hall of Fame inductee, a James Beard Best Chef: Southwest nominee, an Iron Chef America winner and the Emmy award-winning host of the PBS series Plate & Pour, Tarbell fosters further community links. And behind the scenes, he forms more relationships as he mentors young talent and devotes his time to charity fundraising efforts.
“I think he’s amazing,” says Jill Smith, the Arizona Program Director for Careers though Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP), a non-profit that prepares disadvantaged youths for careers in the hospitality industry. “He’s always been a large part of our fundraisers, but because of the pandemic, we couldn’t hold one this year. He personally raised the money for two C-CAP scholarships and now those two kids are going to get to go to culinary school because of him. Besides giving up his time to help us raise money, and donating his own, he’s hired many C-CAP students and mentored them. I think he just embodies the spirit of hospitality.”
Written by:
Christina Barrueta Photographed by:
Luke Irvin
Cory Oppold (whose dish is pictured above) is the chef-owner of Simmer Down and has taught at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts. He agrees, “One of the biggest things I took away is the hospitality and how insanely passionate Mark is about guest satisfaction and how much he cares about the guests themselves. He also taught me consistency in execution – how to handle 200 covers and still maintain great quality. He’s a perfect balance of chef and businessman; Tarbell’s is such a welloiled machine.” “Mark’s integrity in consistency of execution is impactful,” says Jim Gallen, former operating partner, and currently food and beverage director at Mountain Shadows luxury resort. “We always viewed Tarbell’s to be a three-pronged restaurant, where the food, the service, and the ambiance were equal partners in success and it was important to us to be consistent. Mark made some great friends in the Valley and those in the entertainment business were always confident that when they brought somebody to Tarbell’s, whether Mark was in the building or not, Tarbell’s would deliver.
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Stephen Jones, chef-owner of The Larder + the Delta and a James Beard award nominee for Best Chef: Southwest, recalls fortuitously catching Tarbell’s Iron Chef win on the Food Network. “Then the very next day I heard they were looking for a chef,” he recounts. “I applied and did an Iron Chef tasting for Mark and Jim Gallen, and the rest is history.” He remembers cooking for celebrities such as Muhammad Ali, Conan O’Brien, Alice Cooper, Sheila E. and NASCAR driver Jeff Gordon. “Mark is a rock star,” he says. “Keeping your eyes on the prize and on the details, and knowing flavor and how to get the flavor you’re looking for, are just some of the things that I took away.” Josh Hebert of acclaimed ramen shop Hot Noodles, Cold Sake (now closed but pictured above), spent two stints in Tarbell’s kitchen. He recalls high-profile guests such as Andrew Dice Clay, Dan Quayle and Jacques Pepin. “One night I was making a tarte tartin for Mark to use on TV the next day and Jacques offered to help me,” he recalls, “so that was super cool.” “Mark is extremely professional and instilled how important it was to treat people with respect,” he continues. “He’s the quintessential business owner. He leads by example, he gives constant feedback, good or bad, and his management style is very motivating.”
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Scott and Katie Stephens (pictured above), sommeliers and co-owners of Beckett’s Table and Southern Rail, met at Tarbell’s when it opened in 1994. “For three amazing and informative years, Mark instilled in us his relentless passion for hospitality and wine. I grew up in New Orleans, so wine and food have always been part of my life to some degree, but working with him really invigorated both of us. As a result, we decided we should dig a little deeper as a married couple in the service industry,” says Scott. “Working for Mark created a backbone of excellence and consistency that led us in our collective path as restauranteurs,” agrees his wife Katie, general manager at Beckett’s Table. “We would not be where we are today without him.” “I learned so much from him,” echoes Jennifer Russo, chef-owner of The Market + Restaurant by Jennifer and Jennifer’s Catering, a recipient of a 2018 Foodist Award. As Tarbell’s sous chef, she was prematurely sidelined by a knee injury. “I really wish I was there longer,” she muses. “I loved his style, I loved his energy, I dug the vibe. Working with him really led me to where I am today. Mark just nails seasonal cooking, and he nails wine, which are,” she laughs, “my two favorite things.” Our thriving Phoenix culinary scene is grateful for the many, many degrees of Mark Tarbell.
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OLD ELLSWORTH BREWING CO. Written by Alison Bailin Batz Photographed by Luke Irvin
Arizona has Alaska and a supportive mother-in-law to thank for Old Ellsworth Brewing Company, the award-winning 5,800-squre-foot brewery and restaurant in Queen Creek. It's known for its nearly 20 regular and rotating taps of beer and eclectic elevated menu of comfort classics.
the East and West coasts, which included a stop in Arizona, where I met my future wife, Christine.” McKean made Arizona his home soon after, until opportunity knocked from up north. “A family friend had a jewelry store in Skagway, Alaska and needed help during the touristheavy summer months, so we obliged, at first spending summers in Alaska and winters in Arizona, but soon also dividing our time in the winter in Mexico as well,” says McKean. “We did
“My side of the story begins as I neared the end of my service in the Navy around 1998,” says Old Ellsworth co-owner Brian McKean. “Though an Illinois native, the Navy took me across
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Old Ellsworth this about nine years, during which time an Alaskan friend introduced us to home brewing.” Impressed, McKean set out to home brew as well, initially in Alaska but soon back in Arizona, as they moved back full-time in 2009. McKean fell in love with the process – and several of his recipes – along the way. His brother-in-law, Ryan Bostrom, got similarly interested in home brewing. Before long, the two – along with Christine – were brewing both together and on their own with a high level of success.
Brewing Company “I then spent the better part of five years talking about starting a brewery, going so far as to study the business model intensively while finishing my college education at University of Phoenix,” says McKean. During Brian's studies, he found Queen Creek to be the highest beer drinking population per capita in Maricopa County, yet it had zero actual breweries of its own. Enter Sheryl, McKean’s mother-in-law and Bostrom’s mother. While reading a beer trade magazine, the family came across an ad about an opportunity to start a brewery in Queen Creek with the help of the Town of Queen Creek Economic Development Commission. Sheryl not only called the number listed on the
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ad, but she set up a meeting for her boys to connect with the development committee in person. The development team quickly recommended a space for the brewery, which happened to be run by a gentleman who used to grow grain in North Dakota for AnheuserBusch. Kismet! A friend also knew a culinary master named Robert Hudson seeking a new project. It took about five minutes of tasting chef Hudson’s food before they offered to have him develop their culinary program. The resulting menu was a showcase of his extraordinary talent and included gourmet burgers, Cajun pasta, Nashville Hot Chicken (pictured above) and even a twisted take on egg rolls using Philly cheesesteak. “By 2017, we opened the doors – and tapped the kegs – at Old Ellsworth Brewing Company,” says McKean.
“Since day one, our mission beyond just making damn good beer and crave-worthy food has been simple: to collaborate with the community in an authentic way.” Case in point: in 2020, they supported the local Girl Scouts–Arizona CactusPine Council by participating in the Girl Scout Cookie Dessert Challenge. They also feature exclusively Arizonabased spirits – including offerings from OHSO, Blue Clover, and Arizona Distilling Company – on their cocktail menu. Old Ellsworth recently partnered with the Arizona Farm Bureau to develop Cien, a beer currently available at Total Wine & Spirits that was made to honor the Bureau’s Centennial. Old Ellsworth also hosted the 2021 Saving Strong Beer Festival in its parking lot in February. The 18-brewer event marked the first such festival of its kind since the onset of the pandemic. Cheers to that!
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Arizona Steakhouses That Sizzle Written by: Alison Bailin Batz Photographed by: Luke Irvin Back in the 90s, my dad owned a local business that served as the supplier of high-end meat to Arizona restaurants and resorts. As a result, most dinners as a kid involved one or more fancy cuts of beef, and too often me complaining I wanted pizza instead. I know. I know. What a bratty kid. That bratty kit is 40 now, and dad is no longer with us. Thankfully, his almost nightly lessons on good steak – and the importance of sharing culinary adventures with those you love – remain. Without him here, my family is often on the hunt for the perfect steakhouse. To us, the best take pride in sourcing quality products and treat them with respect in the kitchen. They also – like my dad – delight in dreaming up ways to make guests’ evenings a little “extra,” special occasion or not. Here are some of our favorites.
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Modern Oysterbar and Steakouse Before even getting into the food, Modern is special because it is a family affair. It was opened in central Scottsdale in 2019 by the husband-and-wife team of Cat and Randy Frankel, who worked for years at Steak 44, Zinc Bistro and Mastro’s Ocean Club, among others. The beverage manager is their son, Dylan, and pastry chef is their daughter, Samantha, both of whom also worked at Zinc Bistro. Together, they created a warm and inviting space awash in charcoal grey and deep blue hues. The location features several dining areas, many that allow a great view of the open kitchen and raw bar. An impressive outside patio with a cozy fire pit and full bar rounds out the space. Leading the kitchen is executive chef Mike Bouwens, known for his work at Roaring Fork and most recently (you guessed it!), Zinc Bistro. There are full menus of both steak and seafood options that run the gamut from 32-ounce long bone ribeye to whole grilled lobster.
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Nic's Italian Steak & Crab House
It’s another family affair here! In the mid-90s, Michelle and Eric Jurisin took a day trip to northern Arizona, quickly falling in love with the town of Jerome. So much so in fact, that they bought an abandoned building and opened what is now the Haunted Hamburger (see pg 25). Over the course of the next 25 years, the Jurisins – with Michelle at the helm as executive chef – opened a series of eateries across Jerome and Cottonwood, which is located directly down the hill, including Crema, Clinkscale, The Tavern Grill, Grapes, Pizzeria Bocce and Nic’s. The steak and crab house is reminiscent of where Tony Soprano would take his for a celebration. Meaning it is like something out of New York or Chicago, from its plush green booths and its dark woods to the pops of gold and brass. Its Tuscan-style steaks are charbroiled perfectly before being brushed with olive oil and a blend of Italian seasonings and served with massive, rich sides.
Mariposa Losing my father unexpectedly when he was just 49 was hard, but it is nothing compared to Mariposa founder Lisa Dahl’s loss. The James Beard-featured chef was not a chef at all 25 years ago. She was in the fashion business. However, after her son Justin was murdered, she moved to Sedona seeking solace and healing. She and Justin loved to cook, so she made her way into the kitchen more and more, eventually dreaming up epicurean excellence at the highest level in his memory. Today, she is a leading female chef and restaurateur in the country, and Mariposa is one of her many lauded venues. While not a traditional steakhouse – it is inspired by the cuisines of Argentina, Chile and Uruguay – don’t sleep on it as among the top meaty destinations in the Southwest. Her bistecca (Spanish for "beef steak") is certified USDA Black Angus and wood-grilled with bright, balanced chimichurri. Insider tip: top your cut with Dahl’s mushroom gorgonzola chipotle sauce or compound roasted garlic truffle butter. Worth it!
Dominick's Okay, one more “all in the family” pick for posterity. Those who see this massive palace to all that is indulgent as one of the anchors at Scottsdale Quarter are likely assume it is a massive national chain. Au contraire! Dominick’s is the ultra-high end steak concept from the Mastro family. Patriarch Dennis Mastro helped launch true steakhouses in Arizona back in the 1980s before opening the Mastro brands years later with his sons. After selling that brand several years ago, the family put pen to paper on their dream restaurant. Enter Dominick’s, which is named for Dennis’ father and – like the Mastros themselves – bigger than life. The venue boasts one of the most opulent bars in Arizona as well as an open-air dining option on the roof, complete with a pool serving as the centerpiece of the space. All of the meat on the menu is responsibly sourced, wet-aged for 28 days and hand-cut by the family’s in-house master butcher. When paired with the creamed corn crème brûlée or Alaskan king crab and rock shrimp mac’n’cheese… there simply are no words that can describe it.
Ember The newest kid on the block, Ember opened in late 2020 at the new We-Ko-Pa Casino Resort and is owned and operated by the Fort McDowell Yavapai Nation. When seeking a chef for the fine dining concept, the team set their sights high, which paid off when they nabbed Richard Pelz. The gourmand god brought experience from a laundry list of the world’s top eateries including New York Times Four-Star La Grenouille; Louie XV in Monte Carlo, where he worked with Alain Ducasse; Martin Berasategui, a Michelin 3-star restaurant in San Sebastian; Citrine West Hollywood; and both Bottega and Redd in Napa. Pelz only uses the highest-quality USDA Prime and Angus Wagyu beef, and each protein is carefully prepared over a custom wood burning grill featuring Mesquite wood found from local trees in the area. Talk about “eating local.”
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The Americano About five years ago, Food Network star, award-winning chef and restaurateur Scott Conant moved to Arizona, eventually opening Mora Italian in Phoenix. Last year, Conant made his next culinary move, investing in The Americano in Scottsdale and jumping in as its executive chef. Today, the Italian steakhouse – in the vein of The Palm empire – serves as his creative outlet to really hone in on a more refined style of cooking, one that is a culmination of his travels. His menu is dripping with elegant steak, including prime and American Wagyu beef, and each is made to stand on its own or perfectly pair with house-made pasta, Italian antipasti, or Mediterranean seafood that will blow your mind. Inventive cocktails and a carefully curated selection of 200 distinct wines from iconic established and emerging Italian and American labels (including Conant’s private label, SC Wines) grace the drink list.
Black Bart's Steakhouse Enjoy the finest in oak-broiled steaks, seafood, prime rib, and more in a unique and unforgettable setting at Black Bart’s in Flagstaff, which hopes to re-emerge after closing amid COVID-19 any day. Its history is unlike any other dining establishment in Arizona in that it was born of the talents of local students! Back in 1979, Black Bart’s was actually an RV Park, but its owners had a vision of transforming it into a steakhouse filled with musically and theatrically inclined students from the nearby Northern Arizona University. The tradition continues today as Black Bart’s offers a full musical revue including entertainment running the gamut from Disney to 80s hits. Oh, and don’t miss the cocktail menu, which features drinks inspired by the Southwest.
J&G Steakhouse
In summer 2016, The Phoenician began a three-year transformation — the largest renovation since opening in 1988. While excited for the updates (sweeping, grand and breathtaking from top to bottom, by the way), the announcement made me nervous. I feared the resort’s signature eatery, J&G Steakhouse, would change too much, which would destroy me. That’s because the only thing more magical than the 270-degree views that burn into your soul, especially at sunset, is the food. Thankfully, the update only enhanced the seductive, sophisticated, all-around sensational steakhouse. The vibe is American with French influences thanks to chef Jacques Qualin, a native of the Franche-Comté region of France who was hand-picked by J&G founder and culinary titan Jean-Georges Vongerichten to lead the kitchen.
Chop, Block & Brew
In 2018, Harrah’s Ak-Chin Casino opened Chop, Block & Brew in the Maricopa region of the Valley. Rustic and relaxed yet an upscale adventure for one’s taste buds, three of the many highlights: the dry-aging of the meats, allowing them to rest in a carefully controlled state to develop a deeper layer of flavor; select steaks are sous vide, which produces a more consistent taste and size, and ensures a more even temperature based on guest preference; and there are a number of accompaniments ranging from lobster tail to maître de butter. The 3,454-square-foot restaurant features Native American-inspired artwork and design elements that highlight the culture and traditions of the Ak-Chin Indian Community. Working with the art and design committee that was appointed by Chairman Robert Miguel, the Community’s history and culture is depicted in the architecture, artwork and colors throughout the restaurant.
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Sweet Places In The Valley Written and Photographed by Luke Irvin
Soda Jerk Milkshake Bar A visit to Soda Jerk is nothing short of a magical experience. Named after people who used to serve soda in drugstores - think early 1900’s - this small dessert outpost serves “outrageous, handcrafted milkshakes & ice cream floats, gourmet hot chocolates, and craft sodas.” Their Killer Shakes (pictured on the left) are a spectacle to behold, sporting ingredients like fruity pebbles, PB & J sandwiches, and even Pop Tarts. The husband and wife founders have done a tremendous job creating eye-catching treats that are more than just a sugar bomb. The attention to detail makes this retro-inspired milkshake bar a must visit, with treats that taste even better than they look! There is even a secret to Soda Jerk that the staff might let you in on if you ask nicely...
Pie Snob Razzleberry, Key Lime, Coconut Custard, and our favorite the Caramel Apple Pie. Pie Snob fills their rotating menu with a wide variety of scrumptious pies that will have anyone going for an extra slice of heaven. Visitors can purchase treats by the slice, but we recommend just going for a full pie! They load the beautiful creations with copious amounts of delicious fruit, or whatever flavor you go with. Pie snob even has a variety of exotic cheesecakes that rival any we’ve seen. Don’t just take our word for it, people rant and rave about the sweet staff and even sweeter pies online. Pie Snob’s slogan is “Life's too short to eat bad pie,” and we couldn’t agree more!
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Shakes and Cones
Snoh Ice Shavery
Shakes and Cones is a sugary hole-in-the-wall (literally) right in the middle of Old Town Scottsdale. This walk up creamery serves a variety of tasty treats from milkshakes to affogato. Their creations are some of the most classic on this list, but that isn’t what sets Shakes and Cones apart from other dessert places. This local family-owned creamery actually serves organic, gluten-free, egg-free, non-gmo, small batch soft serve made entirely without preservatives. So while you enjoy a cone dipped in chocolate or sprinkles, you can rest easy knowing you’re being somewhat healthy. Since Shakes and Cones is among so many outstanding local shops, you can even walk the sugar off!
Snoh Ice Shavery is serving up some of Arizona’s most irresistible Asian treats. The menu sports their flagship shaved ice aka Snoh as well as milk teas and slushies. The frozen Snoh (traditionally referred to as BaoBing) is a light and fluffy ice cream type dessert that has a texture unlike any we have tried before. Both the shaved ice and the drinks come in an extensive list of flavors, including their sensational traditional taro flavor. Patrons can also choose from a list of addons including custard pudding, rainbow jelly, and honey boba! The Purple Rain Snoh combo (pictured on the right) is our recommendation, and you can’t go wrong with any milk tea and boba.
Toasted Mallow Imagine a bouquet of fluffy, gourmet marshmallows freshly toasted in a homemade graham cracker bowl, then coated with oreo crumble, peanuts, and anything else your heart desires. Next to your scratch made s’more is a frozen hot chocolate milkshake with luscious marshmallow fluff plumped on top. This dessert dream is a reality at Toasted Mallow in Gilbert, Arizona. At Toasted Mallow guests can choose from a variety of confections and drinks at the original marshmallow and s’mores bar. There is a massive selection of marshmallow flavors, ranging from pumpkin spice to coffee, and even mint. Toasted Mallow also has an on-premise and online retail store where fans can purchase their own fluffy treats and merchandise.
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hazy Ipa Double Dry Hopped with Zappa & Cashmere hops Brewed By Simple Machine Brewing Co. 8.2% ABV | 48 IBU | 16 FL OZ
CHI NY VS
PIZZA IN PHX WRIT TEN BY STEVEN L ARSON
PHOTOGRAPHED BY LUKE IRVIN
Chicago and New York, the Windy City and the Big Apple. They have plenty in common- big city, a passion for sports, and of course their love for pizza! However, when it comes to their styles of pizza, they couldn’t be more different. Chicago is most known for their towering deep dish pizzas and New York is known for it’s thin, foldable, on-the-go pizza. If you’ve lived in Arizona long enough you know we are a melting pot of sorts. People from all over the country, like Chicago and New York, move here seeking our sunshine and six lane freeways! With that they bring the cultures and traditions of their native food scene. When I think about each pizza style I see how it takes on the personality and lifestyle of the city it represents. As the old saying goes- “are they built for speed or are they built for comfort?” Here in Arizona you’ll catch several places that do a spectacular job replicating the NYC & CHI styles.
Chicago There is one Chicago pizzeria here in Arizona that’s been at the top of my list for years: Nello's Pizza in Mesa. A great friend, groomsmen and college roommate of mine “Lips” put Nello’s on the map for me and is a Nello’s legend! Family owned and operated for over 35 years, and a home away from home for many locals, Nellos lives by its slogan: “In Crust We Trust.” There is no doubting that, it’s phenomenal! Everything about it is great. What separates Nello's from the others and puts them into another stratosphere is the bacon (pictured on the left). My pro tip is that you ask for bacon. When you do, you’ll get a load of crunchy, crispy, delicious, full strips of bacon! Nello’s is easily the “Michael Jordan” of Chicago style pizza in AZ. Another fantastic Chicago style pizza spot is Salerno’s Restaurant and Pizzeria. The first Salerno family restaurant originated in Berwyn, IL in 1966. They since have opened a location in Gilbert and have been serving the East valley since 2004. The Salerno restaurant has crossed over 3 generations now and they pride themselves on making authentic Chicago style pizzas. Their specialty and what they do best is the thin crust Chicago style. Most people don’t associate thin crust pizza with Chicago, but this thin, crispy crust, is blanked in cheese, and square cut just like in the Chicago suburbs. You can’t go wrong with traditional pepperoni and sausage but if you’re wanting to branch out, try a pizza with Italian beef and hot giardiniera peppers, a true taste of Chicago.
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New York My favorite AZ New York spot is Reel Pizza Pie in Surprise. It is new, progressive, and modern. I came across Reel when several New York natives tipped me off to its location. Reel is backed by a young, passionate owner with laid back west coast roots, Kaleb Copenhaven. What you’ll get when you slide on over to Reel is a fantastic NY pizza offered by the slice for those on the go, or whole pies for those who want to stick around and enjoy the super chill vibes of the pizzeria. Reel offers traditional/Sicilian slices, hoagies, calzones and cannolis. Everything you would expect from a NY inspired pizzeria! My recommendation here is to keep it simple with a slice of cheese or a Sicilian corner. Sal’s Gilbert Pizza is another fantastic authentic New York style pizzeria, and the embodiment of the American dream. Sal was born in Sicily then moved to New York in 1984 to start work in his brother's pizzeria and he attended culinary school. Since 2006, he has ran Sal’s Gilbert Pizza. Sal’s offers all of the New York favorites from traditional thin slices, grandma style, Sicilian, even upside down Sicilian. However, perhaps Sal’s worst kept secret and favorite cult classic pizza is their baked ziti pizza! Definitely worth grabbing a slice.
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