AsiaLIFE HCMC March

AsiaLIFE volume 60

www.asialifemagazine.com

22 front

06 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

Vietnamese cuisine

16 Q&A with French chef

42 Cafe Alex

David Thai

British comfort food

18 Photo Essay: Going Retro

43 Geisha Cafe

Saigon through a 1951 camera

22 Baby Steps What does it take for an expat couple to start a family in Vietnam?

Late Nosh

41 Frangipani Hoa Su

13 Street Smart: To Hien Thanh

on the cover

40 Sterling's Saigon

A hip hangout

style & design

44 The Opera Nights of Old Saigon 46 Fashion: In Bloom

storyboard

28 Lights, Camera, Action Behind the scenes of a film shoot

30 From the Streets to

back

50 The List 74 Spotlight

Starbucks

76 Street Guide

32 Virgin Territory

84 Odd One Out

Sex before marriage?

Starbucks: hate it and embrace it

34 The Education Bubble

85 This Country Life Village vignettes

getaways

86 Pub Quiz

36 Keeping Up With the Times in Kep 38 A Vegan in Prague

43

46

Cover Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink Model Jordan Farran

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note from the editor

Group Director Sales & Marketing / Director Vietnam: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialife.asia Managing Editor: Chris Mueller chris@asialife.asia

Editorial Intern: Ruben Luong

Contributing Editor: Michael Tatarski michael@asialife.asia Editor-at-Large: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

There are plenty of things for expats to worry about in Vietnam: traffic accidents, scheming landlords, health insurance, and power outages, to name a few. But deciding whether to give birth to a child here has got to be at the top of that list. Whatever reason brought us to Vietnam, for the many who have decided to live here long term, pregnancy may seem like a good reason to return home.

But fear not, giving birth in Ho Chi Minh City is only becoming easier (well, as easy as pushing another human being out of your body can be). The hard part, however, seems to be what happens next, which, like everything in Vietnam, involves way too much paperwork. Getting birth certificates, sorting nationalities, and applying for passports are all things every expat who has children in Vietnam must go through. In our cover story we talk to some who have gone through the process and get their advice on ways to make it easier. We also speak with some doctors who highlight some of the things Vietnam is wellequipped to handle when it comes to giving birth, and where it is lacking. Parent support networks are starting to grow in Vietnam as well, and we ask organisers what parents can expect when getting ready to prepare for arguably the most important event in their lives.

Also this month we chime in on one of the most heated topics among expats of late (no, not Joel Brinkley), the arrival of Starbucks. Sarah Dallof talks to local coffee shop owners and their customers, as well as some of the many Vietnamese queuing up outside the shiny new Starbucks, to get their opinions on what the corporation means for Vietnamese coffee culture. And columnist Dana Filek-Gibson weighs in with reasons not to cringe at Starbucks’ entry into Vietnam.

Finally I’d like to say a quick thanks to photographer Alex McMillan, who has decided to move on from AsiaLIFE and pursue his own photography business. Over the past year, he has been an enthusiastic and hardworking member of our team, always willing to tackle whatever we threw at him, and it has been great to watch him grow as a photographer. We wish him the best of luck and hope to see his photos again in these pages.

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Photo Editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialife.asia Photographers: Alex McMillan and Linh Phanroy

Deputy Editor: Lien Hoang lien@asialife.asia

Chris Mueller

Regional Creative Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@asialife.asia

Production Manager: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298395 / +84 8 6680 6105 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com

AsiaLIFE Group Group Editor / Director Cambodia: Mark Bibby Jackson mark@asialife.asia Managing Editor Cambodia: Ellie Dyer Art Director Cambodia: Steve Tierney Sales Cambodia: Sorn Chantha Chantha@asialife.asia

Director Thailand: Nattamon Limthanachai (Oh) oh@asialife.asia Associate Editor Thailand: Yvonne Liang Photo Editor Thailand: Nick McGrath Sales Thailand: Piyalai Tandhnan (Ming) Ming@asialife.asia

Next time you're in Cambodia or Thailand check out the latest content from AsiaLIFE or download it at:

www.asialifemagazine.com Find AsiaLIFE articles on

THE BEST SUCKLING PIG AT YU CHU.

Considered as a quintessential traditional Vietnamese dish, especially in Saigon, the suckling pig is now at Yu Chu restaurant. Our chefs take pride in the tenderness of their roast pigs and are more than happy to serve you the best cuts.

Priced at 1.000.000 VND++ per whole suckling pig.

Available 6:00pm - 10:00pm daily from now until 30th April 2013.

The price is subject to 10% VAT and 5% service charge. For more information or to make a reservation, please call +84 8 3520 9099 or email dine@icasianasaigon.com

NEWS Learn How to Save a Life

International SOS is providing first aid training for individuals and companies with half and full-day courses. Extended training levels 2 and 3 are available upon request. They’ll teach CPR and ways to handle choking, go over the automated external defibrillator and recovery positions, and review basic anatomy, hygiene, and personal protective equipment. The company recommends keeping a first-aid kit in your car and in a central place at home, as well as regularly checking and resupplying the kit. To register for the 29 March class, call Ms. Binh at 08 38 23 65 20, ext. 361.

From One Charity to Another

On 23 March, H2H, a group cycling from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City for charity, will hold a fundraiser at KOTO Saigon, 151A

EVENTS Hai Ba Trung, D3. A set dinner will be served from 7-9pm, followed by live entertainment.

All proceeds will go towards tuition for two trainees at KOTO, a restaurant chain that trains underprivileged young people for the service industry. Reserve a space by emailing thuytrang.ta@ koto.com.au. The event also will serve as a going-away party for the 20 H2H riders, who depart from Hanoi on 3 April.

Cyclo Racing

Peace Talk

In 2010, Ngo Bao Chau, a University of Chicago mathematician, received his subject’s top honour, the Fields Medal, for proving the fundamental lemma for automorphic forms. Time magazine selected his proof as one of the top 10 scientific discoveries of 2009. But if you don’t understand any of that, hear from the man himself when he speaks at Open University, 97 Vo Van Tan, D3, at 2pm 15

The Saigon Cyclo Challenge, the only live cyclo race in the world, is back on 10 March at The Crescent in District 7. Special additions for 2013 include the first Charity Grand Bazaar with 40 stall holders and a Cyclo Décor Challenge Road Show. Besides the 10 teams racing, there are children’s activities and funds go to charity. For more visit Saigonchildren.com, or contact Van Nguyen, 09 76 537 657, hoangvan@saigonchildren.com, or Do Thi Xuan Phuc, 09 13 117 006, phuc@saigonchildren.com.

Unwind Sundowner Weekend Special at New World Saigon Hotel

From now until 30 September 2013, book a single or double room at New World Saigon Hotel and enjoy our Unwind Sundowner Weekend Special which includes an overnight stay in one of our comfortable guestrooms, a sumptuous breakfast buffet at Parkview and a sunset cocktail with tapas by the pool.

Prices start from VND2,480,000 per room and night.

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76 Le Lai Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City tel: +84 8 3824 3734 saigon@newwordhotels.com www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Terms and conditions apply.

March. Hosted by the International Peace Foundation, Chau’s lecture is titled “How we learn”.

Chau became Vietnam’s youngest professor at age 33 and has worked at the Institute for Advanced Study at Princeton.

More at Peace-foundation.net, 08 39 30 65 39 or anhdiemquan@yahoo.com.

English. In between, a lunch panel in English will feature experts working in law, fashion, accounting, and consulting.

Tickets for the events at the Caravelle start at VND 850,000 and can be booked at officemanager@bbgv.org or 08 38 29 84 30.

Women in Business

The Canadian Chamber of Commerce will hold its monthly Breakfast Club on 20 March.

It’s an hour of power when five guests give 5-minute presentations, which in the past have covered everything from marketing trends to travel tips to green renovations. Register

The British Business Group Vietnam is holding work seminars in time for International Women's Day on 8 March. A morning seminar in Vietnamese will address business etiquette, while the afternoon will be dedicated to dressing for success, in

Hour of Power

Work, Then Vespa Tour

The Caravelle’s new business package features full-day meeting room rental, deluxe accommodation with a choice of river or city views, international buffet breakfasts, a tailored lunch menu and two coffee breaks per day with snacks. Groups can take a two-hour vespa tour to take in the river and the city’s historic landmarks and settle in for drinks at sundown. The hotel also will provide one free room and one suite upgrade for every 20 rooms booked. There is a two-night, 30-person minimum for the package, which costs $159 per person and lasts through September.

For bookings: hung.tran@caravellehotel.com.

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for VND 220,000 (VND 270,000 for non-members) at hcmc@ canchamvietnam.org or 08 38 24 37 54. CanCham also will have a free networking event 21 March (VND 50,000 for nonmembers).

Health Expansion

Family Medical Practice is supplementing its District 1 with a location at 95 Thao Dien, D2. Open weekdays 8am-6pm and Saturdays 8am-2pm, the new clinic offers pediatric and maternity care, vaccines, psychotherapy, physical therapy, and other services. Vietnammedicalpractice.com.

Sensual Art

Craig Thomas Gallery is preparing the presentation of a solo exhibition of new works by Hanoi-based artist Nguyen The Hung titled Please, Handle With Care!. The opening of the exhi-

bition will be on 21 March 2013 from 6-8pm at CTG's District 1 gallery space.

Please, Handle With Care! features the artist's latest series of paintings done in acrylic on do paper and canvas. Sensual figures of modern-day women are juxtaposed with traditional Vietnamese and Buddhist patterns taken from temples and classical architecture, presented in vivid and colorful compositions.

Nguyen The Hung's latest collection emanates from the artist's musings on the differences between ancient and modern designs, and the contrasts between rural-traditional values and newly urbanized and internationalized attitudes.

Craig Thomas Gallery, 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Tan Dinh Ward, D.1, HCMC. For more info please contact cthomasgallery@gmail.com.

Going International

Budget carrier VietJetAir became the country’s first private airline to enter the international market last month with a flight connecting Ho Chi Minh City and Bangkok. Representatives from the Thai Embassy in Vietnam and Vietnam’s Southern Airport Corporation attended the ceremony at Tan Son Nhat airport on the first day of the Lunar Near Year. The flight crew donned both Vietnamese and Thai traditional costumes, and gave out li xi (lucky money) to all passengers, who also received Thai trinkets in Bangkok.

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BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY

AN PHU PRIMARY

TU XUONG PRIMARY

AN PHU SECONDARY

225 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Phone: (84 8) 3744 4551 Email: apprimary@bisvietnam.com

43-45 Tu Xuong, Ward 7, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Phone: (84 8) 3932 0210 Email: txprimary@bisvietnam.com

246 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, District 2, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Phone: (84 8) 3744 2335 Email: apsecondary@bisvietnam.com

Two Become One

Following their recent merger, the Australian International School and ACG International School Vietnam will host an open day, 'Experience an IB world school at its best', from 9-11am on 16 March. The school will keep the Australian name. Parents can visit the main campus in An Phu, D2, with a state-of-the-art science wing and computer lab, facilities for art, theatre, dance, and music, as well as swimming pools and tennis courts. Visitors can enjoy a barbecue and class activities with the teachers.

More at Aisvietnam.com or 08 37 42 40 40.

Return of an Anti-War Activist

Tom Hayden, one of the founders and leaders of the 1960s student movement and an anti-war activist, returned to Hanoi in December to burrow through a warren of subterranean rooms he’d last visited when bombs rained on the war-torn city. He dropped by the Metropole hotel, which now provides guests with tours of its recently discovered underground shelter. During visits in 1965, 1967, 1972 and 1973, when Hayden was married to actress Jane Fonda, US bombing runs drove Hayden and others into the air raid shelter. The activist said today’s memorial looks different from the shelter he remembers. “In 1965, 1967 and 1973, there was life and spirit there,” he said. “More dim lights. Benches. Chairs. Lots of people together. The hotel staff very friendly. A circle of humanity.”

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Cambodia & Thailand News Download AsiaLIFE Cambodia and AsiaLIFE Thailand online at: www.asialifemagazine.com.

Cambodia Kampong Chhnang Pottery Market

Potters from the Cambodia Traditional Pottery Project in Kampong Chhnang will have their wares on show at the B1 Gallery at the InterContinental on 2 and 3 March, from 10am until 5pm. The rich earth of Kampong Chhnang produces clays and glazes that have historically made the province and its potters famous. This group of female potters has been trained by Japanese ceramic experts to utilise traditional skills, tools and resources to create a new pottery brand. At the close of the market on Saturday there will be a presentation, followed by a charity auction for the victims of the 2011 Japanese earthquake.

PSE Launches New Initiative

Non-governmental organisation PSE is launching a new project to enroll 500 underprivileged students in full-time sponsored school placements. The sixmonth campaign, starting this month, is designed to inspire people to ‘Be A Hero’ and engage with those in the community who don’t have access to education. Conferences will be organised with testimonies from former PSE students and a website will be launched with details on how to participate, raise or donate funds, and raise awareness. A culinary festival will also be held by the NGO in Olympic Stadium on 29 and 30 March from 5pm. Entrance is $3. For more information, visit Site-pse.org or Sveva.pettorino@ site-pse.org.

Buddhist Bug Comes to Java

The Buddhist Bug art project returns home to Cambodia with an exhibition opening and premiere on 1 March at Java Gallery.

The exhibition will bring together performance, photography and video works of the project and a 30-metre-long installation until 7 April. The Buddhist Bug

is the concept of Anida Yoeu Ali and a project of Studio Revolt.

“The Buddhist Bug is a fantastic saffron-coloured creature that can span the length of a 30metre bridge or coil into a small orange ball,” says Ali. “Rooted in an autobiographical exploration of identity, the bug comes from the artist’s own spiritual turmoil between Islam and Buddhism.

Set amongst everyday people in ordinary moments, the bug provokes obvious questions of belonging and displacement.”

Festival of French Culture

The French Chamber of Commerce is organising a celebration of all things French from 1 to 12 March. Rubies is offering deals on French wine for the whole period and Sofitel is holding a French brunch on 10 March.

Comme a la Maison is hosting Burgundian week from 8 to 14 March. The French Institute plays host to the second Animated Movie Festival from 1 to 8 March with talks and screenings of animated shorts. Van’s restaurant will display an exhibition of silverware by Christofle on 7 March.

Koh Pich will be the site of a French Exhibition Hall on 8 and 9 March. The festival culminates in a celebration of the 60th anniversary of the Pasteur Institute in Phnom Penh on 11 March, and the opening of an exhibition celebrating the life and works of Louis Pasteur at Sofitel on 12 March.

Roll Up!

Phare, the Cambodian Circus, has set up a big top in Siem Reap. Phare is the little sister of Phare Ponleu Selpak, a non-profit organisation founded in 1994 by eight Khmer ex-refugee artists from Battambang. The outdoor venue currently has a 320-seat capacity and is performing two shows, PUTHO! and Eclipse.

PUTHO!, meaning "Oh my God!" in Khmer, is an allegory of relationships between boys and girls and all the drama that comes with them. Highlights include a gymnast who can draw a bow and arrow using only her feet and a juggling tightrope walker.

Eclipse is a tale of discrimination in which a man, shunned for his differences, prays for divine intervention and is transformed into a beautiful woman. “Circus is a part of Cambodia and a part of Cambodian tradition. I love the circus, I’ve been involved in it for eight years,” says Sothea, a performer in PUTHO! Serenaded by an orchestra combining traditional and modern instruments, it’s impossible not to be caught up in the enthusiasm of these shows, so prepare for gasps of amazement and intakes of breath. Shows take place daily at 7.30pm. For more information, visit Pharecambodiancircus.org.

Well Made in Cambodia

Every first Saturday of the month, starting on 2 March, there will be a special market in front of Shinta Mani hotel on Street 14 that aims to promote high-quality products made in Cambodia. Sombai beverages will join Eric Raisina Texture, Eric Stocker Laque and Textures, Theam’s House, Angkor Artwork, Grace Gecko and more, from 3pm to 9pm.

Organisers say it will be the first time that so many internationally recognised artisans and designers ‘made in Cambodia’ will join forces. For more information, visit Shintamani.com.

Thailand Parallel Painting Exhibition

From 30 March until 9 May, La Lanta Fine Art will featuring two of Thailand’s most recognised names in the artistic industry, Elizabeth Romhild and Sumet Jumsai na Ayudhya. The “Parallel” exhibition observes the self-expression of the two very different artists. One is an Asian male, academically trained architect whose take on art is structural and masculine. The other is a European self-taught female painter who uses emotional expression through visuals of femininity. By juxtaposing the artwork of the two genres, the exhibition explores the trait differences of its creators, yet

embracing the common features apparent in their work. The exhibition opening and artist reception will be presided over

by Khun Anand Panyarachun, Thailand’s former prime minister.

Email info@lalanta.com for details.

New Chefs for the Outrigger

Roberto Conrad has been appointed executive chef at the new Outrigger Laguna Phuket Beach Resort. The 255-key beachfront holiday resort is set to open on 15 March. As executive chef, Roberto will be responsible for all the property’s new restaurants, which specialise in locally-sourced ingredients with an emphasis on seasonality, sustainability and traceability through education and a close relationship with farmers, fishermen and suppliers. Conrad is at the height of an illustrious culinary career that has seen him work as executive chef at five-star properties in Beijing, Shanghai, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok. Visit Outrigger.com for details about the resort.

Next Big Author Signs Book at Neilson Hays Library

British author R J Heald will visit the Neilson Hays Library on 9 March to sign copies of her debut novel: 27: Six Friends, One Year. Heald wrote the novel while based in Bangkok. The author grew up in Amersham, on the outskirts of London, and graduated from Oxford University in 2004. She first came to Bangkok in 2010 with her partner, who works at the British Embassy. Since then she has been splitting her time between Bangkok and London. In 2011, she wrote the novel while living in Asoke and it was published in 2012 by Dancing Parrot Press, to rave reviews. Ruth was a winner of The Next Big Author Competition in 2011 and was shortlisted for the Brit Writers Awards in 2010. Copies of the novel will be available at the signing for B400. The signing will last from 11.30am to 1pm. asialife HCMC 11

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Adults Only The ‘Afternoon Afterglow’ package at the akyra Chura Samui hotel is a strictly adults-only play date that maximizes your time to cocoon, spoon and gaze at the moon against a background of whispering palms, white sand, and azure seas. On the quiet northern tip of Thailand’s Chaweng Beach, this hip lifestyle resort is the only adults-only property on the island. A DJ lends a chic, beach-lounge atmosphere three times a week, while dining options include Thai, Japanese and South American. Located five minutes from Samui International Airport, akyra is perfectly situated to dive into the heady nightlife of Chaweng. The three-night package is available until 31 Dec for $1,500 for two persons. Theakyra.com.

Singing in Singapore The Mosaic Music Festival is bringing nuevo tango, straight-up jazz, fusion-funk, alternative rock, ska, R&B, folk-rock, afro-pop, electronica and more to Singapore from 8-17 March. With the theme, A World of Music, the festival features more than 70 acts, including Joss Stone, Grizzly Bear, MUTEMATH, Esperanza Spalding, and Tennis. Venues range from an acoustic arena to an intimate club and studio, to an amphitheatre on the waterfront. Book at Mosaicmusicfestival. com or Mtvasia.com/mini/gigguide.

Photo: Esperanza Spalding by Carlos Pericas

Another Day in Paradise Until the end of April, the Alila Manggis resort in Bali is giving away a free night for every three consecutive nights booked.

Nestled between the sea and the majestic Mount Agung in East Bali, the Alila mixes modern European shapes with tropical design. The resort boasts 53 rooms with contemporary furniture and traditional Balinese designs that allows outdoors and indoors to meet throughout the boutique hotel. Days at the Alila can be spent regenerating in its spa and around the pal fringed pool while gazing at the ocean or on more adventurous pursuits by the sea. Visit Alilahotels.com for more information.

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Dana Filek-Gibson gets to know the local colour on this eccentric street in District 10. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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From the moment you successfully maneuver through the tangle of vehicles encircling Cong Truong Dan Chu — the roundabout where Cach Mang Thang Tam, Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang intersect — the entire neighbourhood is taken by a sudden sense of urgency.

But amid the chaos of District 10 you'll find a quirky, amicable cast of characters on To Hien Thanh. Though it's only minutes from downtown, To Hien Thanh is a world apart, where locals are still surprised by foreign visitors and a strong sense of community means that everyone is willing and eager to say hello.

To get to this street, follow CMT8 north from the Pham Ngu Lao area in District 1. Once you pass Cong Truong Dan Chu (“Democracy Roundabout”), keep straight on CMT8 for another kilometre and To Hien Thanh is on the left.

Home Renovation/ Furnishing Shops To Hien Thanh For anyone interested in redecorating, this street is the place to go. Lining the roadside from CMT8 to Ly Thuong Kiet are dozens of home furnishing shops, where everything from ceramic tiles to woodworking, bathroom appliances, paint, light fixtures and kitchen decor are available.

Because these businesses span the entire length of the twokilometre street, we thought it unfitting to pick just one, but the variety and selection available on To Hien Thanh make it well worth the trip if home renovation is on your to-do list.

Ba Tap Bakery 59 To Hien Thanh 14 asialife HCMC

The freshly-baked bread on display outside this modest bakery is enough to catch the eye of any passing stranger. Ba Tap Bakery, a narrow storefront not far from the market, makes its own Vietnamese banh mi-style loaves, large and small, as well as French baguettes. In addition to its bread, Ba Tap also sells a variety of meats and pickled vegetables. A plain loaf costs between VND 2,000 and VND 5,000 depending on the style, but you also can order a banh mi sandwich from the shop, which is stocked with fixings like roast pork, Vietnamese cha (lunchmeat), and char siew, or Chinese barbecued pork. These savoury sandwiches are made on the spot and run about VND 15,000 apiece.

Huynh Ngoc Street Tailor In front of 191 To Hien Thanh If your wardrobe is in need of affordable repairs, Huynh Ngoc's roadside business can stitch up your clothing for VND 20,000 to VND 30,000. There are a handful of street tailors along To Hien Thanh, but this one is certainly home to the most characters, from the friendly tailor herself, to the parade of random strangers who came by to greet us, to the two elderly men sitting on the sidewalk, insisting that we sample their rice wine at 10am on a weekday.

Quan Chay Vegetarian Food Cart In front of 68-69 To Hien Thanh Thanks to the nearby university, a handful of street food carts and shops appear daily on this stretch, offering a variety of local fare at low prices. When we approached this small food

cart, the young woman in charge was slightly apprehensive at the sight of two foreign customers. She stared at us from beneath her oversize hat, pointing at various dishes, unsure of what to do. But as soon as the camera came out, apprehension turned to all-out vanity. When we tried to snap a photo of her male colleague, she was quick to chime in with a “What about me?� The food, too, was delicious, an assort-

ment of vegetables and several different types of tofu, all for around VND 15,000 a plate.

Bun Cha Ca Le 2-4-8-10 Dong Nai Just off the corner of To Hien Thanh and Dong Nai streets you'll find a restaurant offering bun cha ca, a staple from the central region. For VND 30,000, you can enjoy this Quy Nhonstyle soup with fresh noodles, herbs, and cha ca, or fish patties.

The restaurant also offers smoothies and desserts as well as variations on its signature dish, including banh canh cha ca (thick rice noodles with processed fish) and pho cha ca.

Nguyen Viet Trieu Shop 334 To Hien Thanh For any expats interested in performing amateur science experiments, look no further than this shop. Located near the Thanh Thai intersection, the

display window of the Nguyen Viet Trieu shop is lined with beakers, microscopes, and all manner of scientific gadgets.

Though we didn't ask the price, the impressive collection of glassware in various shapes and sizes suggests that this shop would suit any and all of your science project Get directions needs.

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David Thai David Thai fled Vietnam at age 6 to live in France after being orphaned during the Vietnam War. Thai returned to Vietnam two decades later and now helms arguably three of the city’s best French culinary hangouts — Le Bouchon de Saigon, Le Steak de Saigon and La Brasserie de Saigon. He was resident chef on Iron Chef Vietnam last year, before becoming permanent judge on The Next Iron Chef Vietnam. By Ruben Luong. Photo by Fred Wissink.

How did you end up becoming a chef?

Me and my big brother grew up with our uncle in a restaurant for business, Vietnamese cuisine, in Paris, Chinatown. I moved around the restaurant business and the countryside of Paris. I grew up in this environment with the family working, helping in the market.

Even the weekends, Saturday, Sunday, we were helping the kitchen. So I grew up like that until my grandmom said, “Why you don’t go to school, learn French cooking?” because [for] Vietnamese chefs there is no job in France.

What made you return to Vietnam?

If I don’t move to Vietnam, I will not be like I am today. I love the country when I first come in ‘96.

This time I was thinking I will be back, I will try to enjoy my life as a chef. So Vietnam is a step for [me], an Asian face. People come to me and of course say he, you know, is not French, but if you talk to me, you will see my hand [movements] and know.

Were you worried your French restaurants wouldn’t stand out after arriving in Ho Chi Minh City?

When we decide to open Le Bouchon and Le Brasserie, of

course we was knowing that French cuisine was everywhere in Vietnam. [Le Bouchon] is a bistro, so you can eat very quick, very packed. You can just sit at the bar and you observe enough just to pass your time and relax your brain. This is what happens to me sometimes. As an expat here I’ve been eating many places alone, so sometimes I don’t know what to eat. I come to a place, I always bring newspaper with me or iPad. But because I’m lonely. But when I find a place like Le Bouchon you can come here, eat one thing and, like in Paris, read your newspaper. I think this kind of place works in Vietnam much more than fine dining.

Do you think chefs are important celebrities here?

There’s too many young people in Vietnam. I want to attract the young generation. We’re lucky that today chefs become celebrated. For Vietnamese people today, chef is what? It’s bad. “Mama, my boyfriend is a chef.” This is not the same status as a marketing minor. Cooking — everybody can cook. Why do you need to pay him for cooking? Vietnamese people like food, like cooking, but they don’t consider a chef himself as a job. There’s not a high social status for the chef.

What did you want to prove on Iron Chef Vietnam?

People, when they say, “You cannot prepare anything, you cannot prepare one hour.”

True, true. But Iron Chef is not something that you bring the plate ready in your restaurant to go out. It’s something you need to see the chef’s direction.

And this is what I showed to the Vietnamese people on the show.

Today I can show on the TV all my 10 years passion, all my 10 years hard time.

You’re also competing in Iron Chef Thailand soon. Ready?

When I was doing the dishes when they give me the two mystery elements, I was saying that we come from Vietnam, we are not coming from France. I have to bring the ingredients in Vietnamese [style], something that when we did the dish, they say, “Oh, it’s from Vietnam!”

So it’s a lot of preparation. It’s one more door for me, and even I say to the people here, life is always fight. The word comes from one Filipino friend that used to work with me in Jordan.

He told me, “David, life is fight, my friend.” Fight, fight… I start to discover what is fighting?

Fighting is not fighting physically, the fighting is to always going. You need to be a winner, courageous, positive example.

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Photography using old cameras is an entirely different experience. Since they have no automation, and therefore no "point and click" options, the cameras take much more time to set up to shoot.

In a throwback to an earlier time, AsiaLIFE photo editor Fred Wissink used a 1951 Minolta Semi P folding camera to capture life in Ho Chi Minh City.

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What does it take for foreigners to start a family in Vietnam? Having a baby anywhere is a major life event, but expats doing so in Ho Chi Minh City face challenges and opportunities that don't exist in their home countries. By Michael Tatarski.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

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Like many new expat parents, Ann Lennartsson, a Vietnamese-Canadian mother of two, was initially nervous about having her first child in a developing country. She was unsure of the facilities and considered returning to Canada to give birth. But her Swedish husband, Jakob, convinced her to stay in Vietnam.

“Vietnam makes more babies than most countries in the world,” Jakob says.

“It’s pretty safe to say it is something they do well. Plus there are many international hospitals available.”

They had their first child at FV Hospital in 2009. Since then, Ho Chi Minh City’s health facilities and parent support networks have improved considerably.

Pre-birth Before October 2009, there were few support networks for new expat parents.

Couples were away from their extended families, and there were no formal parent support organisations. That changed when Karen Spencer-Harty, the clinical coordinator at Family Medical Practice, created the

Lucy Graham, Family Medical’s marketing and communications manager, adds that SIMBA has been a great benefit for many parents.

“Some expecting couples are worried, and these groups give them a chance to talk to people who have done this before, so it makes them much more comfortable,” she says.

Belinda Smith, another mother of two, attended the SIMBA classes for both of her children, as did her husband, Jonathan.

Belinda says they were “essential, though not so much for moms, as we read up on everything and constantly visit forums so we know what is going on.”

Instead, “It’s best for the dads, as it allows them to be fully prepared for everything that is going to happen,” she says.

While SIMBA’s birth education classes do prepare parents for almost every possibility, there are still times when it may be necessary for a couple to seek more advanced medical facilities than are available in Vietnam. Dr Rafi Kot, the director of Family Medical, says having twins in Ho Chi

While birth education classes do prepare parents for almost every possibility, there are still times when it may be necessary for a couple to seek more advanced medical facilities than are available in Vietnam.

Saigon International Mother Baby Association, or SIMBA. Spencer-Harty has 24 years of experience as a midwife in Asia, and after moving here from Bangkok she realised parents needed help.

“I began just giving birth education classes at first, and then SIMBA was created to give parents a chance to meet and share experiences and problems,” she says.

The first classes were open to expecting parents and anyone with a child under 6 months old. Since then, SIMBA has established several play groups, which are largely parent-run, where children up to age five are welcome.

According to Spencer-Harty, the SIMBA groups have become very popular. “At one recent Saturday meeting we had 25 parents and 19 kids,” she says.

24 asialife HCMC

Minh City, for example, is not ideal.

“Twins have a higher rate of premature delivery, so if you are going to have twins you need to be sure that your hospital has a capable NICU, or neonatal intensive care unit,” he says.

Here, the most advanced NICU can care only for babies born at 30 weeks, while the best facilities in the west can handle babies born at 25 weeks.

“This five-week difference may not seem like much, but one week in the womb is equal to five or 10 years of development outside of it, so this is huge,” Kot says.

He adds that mothers with prior health issues or blood problems also should consider having their babies elsewhere, as complications can arise that facilities here may not be equipped to handle.

“If you have no such issues, then you can

“If you have no such issues, then you can do it [give birth] anywhere ... Remember, delivery is not a disease, it is a natural thing.”

– Rafi Kot, director of Family Medical Practice

Felix Khai Lennartsson Born 24 Jan 2011 at Hanh Phuc Hospital

asialife HCMC 25

Jordan Rex Keith Farran Born 29 Feb 2012 at Hanh Phuc Hospital

HypnoBirthing emphasises that the female body is designed to give nearly painless birth and involves visualisation and breathing techniques. do it [give birth] anywhere ... Remember, delivery is not a disease, it is a natural thing,” Kot says.

Delivery For Ann Lennartsson, the decision about where to have her first child was easy, as FV was the only western-grade facility with a full obstetrics department at the time. In her experience, “the hospital was comfortable and modern, but the communication was really lacking.” Her baby was delivered by caesarean section and immediately taken from the 26 asialife HCMC

room, and her husband wasn’t allowed in.

Ann was then taken to a recovery room, but she was not told how long she had to stay there. “Since it’s a general hospital, there was some guy on the bed next to me who had just had an operation, and he would only wake up to vomit on himself.

The nurse told me to try to sleep, but I was nervous,” she says.

Two hours later Ann was taken to a private room where she was able to relax with her child and husband.

The rest of her time at FV was comfort-

able, but the experience helped Ann and her husband to decide to have their second child at Hanh Phuc, a maternity hospital that advertises itself as the first Singapore-quality clinic in the city. Ann says her experience there was “fantastic”.

“Everything was spelled out to me beforehand, which made me much more comfortable,” she says.

Kot, however, is not in favour of maternity hospitals.

“The good thing about FV is that it is multidisciplinary, so it can handle complica-

tions better,” he says. “What happens if the mother has an amniotic embolism? Will a mother-child hospital be able to handle that?

No.” Belinda Smith had both of her children at FV. She and her husband had heard some horror stories about the hospital, but their experience was much better than that of the Lennartssons, who had been there more than a year prior. The Smiths found that communication with the staff during her first delivery was fine. Belinda explained that it is customary here for a newborn to be removed from the room, but she asked if her child could stay with her, and that was allowed.

During Belinda’s second pregnancy, she decided to try something completely different. Spencer-Harty, from Family Medical Practice, had recently undergone training in HypnoBirthing, a technique created by Marie Mongan, a prominent American hypnotherapist. Spencer-Harty had in turn trained the staff at FV, and was looking for a mother to try it on. She was excited to share the method, as it proved that a non-medicated delivery is possible. After the painful, noisy experience that was the delivery of her first child, Belinda was eager to go another route.

“I didn’t think Jonathan would be into it, but he was actually extremely interested,” she says. “[Jonathan] thought the HypnoBirthing sounded great, because it emphasises the positive aspect of giving birth, instead of people yelling ‘push’ the whole time.”

The couple began the necessary fiveweek training course with Spencer-Harty towards the end of Belinda’s pregnancy.

The first session began on a positive note, covering why HypnoBirthing works. Belinda explained that “emphasis is placed on the fact that the female body is designed to give birth, the pain comes when everything tenses up during a standard birth.”

As for the procedure itself, HypnoBirthing involves the application of visualisation and breathing techniques. There is also different terminology. For example, a contraction is called a ‘surge’, which sounds less painful. Belinda recalled that “there are certain phrases you’re supposed to use while training as well. Some sound pretty cheesy, such as ‘go inside your birthing body’.”

Now, Belinda laughs at the phrase, but while pregnant she found it extremely helpful, as it allowed her to picture her with the baby in a peaceful place. The mother’s

partner is also vital to HypnoBirthing, as it is his job to ensure that breathing patterns remain regular.

This training and strange lexicon paid off at the hospital.

“The delivery was an amazing experience,” Belinda says. “The labour was quick and there was very little pain.”

It was also a much quieter experience than her previous delivery. For the most part it was just her and her husband in the delivery room. “The doctor came in at the very end, and all she had to do was catch the baby,” she says.

Belinda and Jonathan were, as far as they know, the first couple to undergo the full HypnoBirthing training and delivery in Vietnam. Spencer-Harty says that a number of mothers have used the method since, and it has received rave reviews.

The Smiths had a similarly frustrating experience. “There’s a lot of red tape,” Belinda says. “You have to get together a whole packet of information proving that you had the baby, that you live in Vietnam, and so on. It’s a tedious process.”

Once a baby is issued a birth certificate, the parents can then apply for a passport from the appropriate consulate or embassy.

Belinda recommends getting started before a baby is born and making at least two copies of everything. “You never know when they are going to ask for duplicates of notarisation or things like that. I would allow at least two or three months between giving birth and making any travel plans, because it will take at least that long to get your baby a passport. “ Fortunately, once the ordeal is completed, life becomes easier for new parents. Ann be-

“There’s a lot of red tape. You have to get together a whole packet of information proving that you had the baby, that you live in Vietnam, and so on. It’s a tedious process.”

– Belinda Smith on getting birth certificates in Vietnam “It gets you thinking that this is going to be an amazing experience, that it will be a privilege, not an ordeal,” Belinda says. “I’d recommend it to anyone.”

Post-birth Of course, pregnancy is only part of the process of having a baby. One of the first things new parents have to worry about is getting birth certificates for their child, and this is a time-consuming process. Every baby born here has to get a Vietnamese birth certificate through the Justice Department, no matter what nationality the parents plan on claiming.

The Lennartssons began working on this process immediately, but it wasn’t easy.

“It’s very bureaucratic,” Ann says. “We considered getting a lawyer, but that’s expensive so we did it ourselves. It was extremely irritating, and for both babies it took three visits to the Justice Department to finally get things through.”

lieves this is a great country in which to have a child because Vietnamese love babies and are eager to help.

Belinda also finds expat life to be useful for raising a newborn.

“Many expats have help around the house, so you can focus on caring for the baby without worrying about washing or ironing and all of that.”

She also disagrees with the common assumption that there isn’t much here to keep children entertained. “There are a ton of places to go and play groups to visit. There’s always stuff on for children,” she says.

In addition to the SIMBA groups for young children, there is the Vietnam Parents Network, a Google Group full of information related to raising kids. Thanks to the presence of networks like these, as well as modern facilities like FV, Hanh Phuc and Family Medical Practice, having a baby in Ho Chi Minh City is easier and more comfortable than ever. asialife HCMC 27

Director Stephen Bradley on the set of Noble in Ho Chi Minh City.

A European film crew camps out in Ho Chi Minh City to recreate the life of an Irish woman helping Vietnam’s street children — because she used to be just like them. By Lien Hoang. Photos courtesy of Noble film.

A

t the helm of one of Vietnam’s biggest children’s charities is a woman who knows a thing or two about childhood poverty. Christina Noble spent her early years living in Dublin slums, in an orphanage, and even in a hole she dug in the ground at a public park.

She went on to dedicate her adult life to making sure other youth don’t endure the same 28 asialife HCMC

fate, a life now being captured for the silver screen.

In January, filmmakers whose CV’s include Saving Private Ryan, Hotel Rwanda and Star Wars touched down in Ho Chi Minh City to shoot a movie chronicling Noble’s story.

“She connected with the street children because she’d been a street child herself,” director Stephen Bradley said in between shoots behind a

market in District 5. Around him, the crew were lugging baskets of fake tangerines and eggplant, and passing one another ca phe sua da in plastic cups.

Noble’s eponymous foundation was, literally, a dream come true. In 1971, a year before Nick Ut’s photo of the naked Vietnamese girl covered in napalm, Noble had a dream about children fleeing a similar

bombing amid the height of the Vietnam War. “The ground under the children was cracked and coming apart and the children were reaching to me,” Noble is quoted as saying on her website.

She took it as an auspice of her future calling, providing education, medical care and job training to young Vietnamese.

The film, simply titled Noble, follows her struggling in Dublin

and Birmingham in the 1950s and ’60s and getting her foot in Vietnam in 1989. Rather than tell the story from beginning to end, Bradley shuttles between the different times and continents.

“I’ve used the device, to-ing and fro-ing, so you can see the parallels in her life,” he said, setting his headphones on a railing while, below, crew members set up a scene in which a Vietnamese man christens Noble’s new house in Ho Chi Minh City with incense.

The 14 years that separate the filming from the latest events in the film posed a challenge for the crew. They had to look for and remove or avoid anachronisms while shooting around the city, such as the skyscrapers downtown or the newer motorbike models. “It wasn't like this at all when Christina arrived,” Bradley blogged on the movie’s website.

Similarly, producer Melanie Gore-Grimes described the difficulty of working around the incessant honking and, in one location, the crowds of children just released from school.

“There’s an element of chaos but everything gets done,” said Gore-Grimes, wearing khaki pedal-pushers and a small backpack on set.

Perhaps most notably, some of the beneficiaries at the Christina Noble Children’s Foundation have small roles in the film.

“A lot of these children are extremely gifted and talented and it’s important to showcase that,” Nicolas Pistolas, Noble’s son and the foundation’s director, said in an interview at his office in District 3.

He added, “We’ve seen how confident Vietnamese children are, even on the street, the confi-

dence to approach strangers on the street and sell their wares.”

Filmmakers spent about half of their eight-week filming schedule in Ho Chi Minh City, more than most major western films except The Quiet American, according to press officer Rob Harris. The crew is now wrapping up production in Liverpool.

Bradley, a Dubliner with grey locks that fall over his big blue eyes, admitted to using some creative license with the biopic.

Music, for instance, takes on greater significance in Noble’s dramatised life than her autobiographies would suggest they did in reality.

But she did have a soft spot for singing, which Bradley said she did some nights after work to unwind. In a blog post, the director wrote that, after shooting one night at a piano bar in District 1, the owner approached the crew to tell them Noble really had sung there years ago.

“Shiver down the spine,” Bradley wrote of the coincidence.

The movie stars Bradley’s wife, Deirdre O’Kane, who has worked alongside actors from Bridesmaids, Downton Abbey and Game of Thrones. The couple have wanted to make the film since O’Kane emceed fundraisers for the charity in Noble’s birthplace The foundation, which has expanded to Mongolia, runs mostly on donations from overseas. They discussed it with each other for a few years, and then with Noble for a few years more, before finally going ahead with production.

Noble and her family gave input on historical and cultural accuracies, but they didn’t have veto power. As Bradley said, “She was generous enough to say, it’s in your hands.”

The film, simply titled Noble , follows her struggling in Dublin and Birmingham in the 1950s and ’60s and getting her foot in Vietnam in 1989.

Bradley and script supervisor Susanna Lenton on set.

Deirdre O'Kane as Christina Noble.

asialife HCMC 29

The arrival of coffee giant Starbucks has seen mixed reactions, from disgust to excitement, but will it really change Vietnam’s already-entrenched coffee culture? By Sarah Dallof. Illustration by Johnny Murphy.

Nguyen Phi is pouring refreshing cups of iced Vietnamese coffee in the heat of the afternoon.

His dozen or so customers sit in low-slung lawn chairs enjoying views of the chaotic traffic in the roundabout just west of the New World Hotel and of Phi’s newest neighbour and competitor, Starbucks. The two-story glass and wood coffee house sits in stark contrast to Nguyen’s 22-year-old business, which is located in what appears to be a vacant lot.

Starbucks opened its first store in Vietnam in February as part of an ongoing plan to branch into new markets and, 30 asialife HCMC

some joke, to take over the world. Opening day lines were long, like “a trendy nightclub”, according to one patron.

And outside, opinions on this newcomer were divided. Many wondered if the crush of excited customers would put small, family-run operations out of business. Will Goliath and his mermaid-adorned cup crush the Davids of the Vietnamese coffee world? Or will the faithful turn their noses down at the corporate giant? Neither, according to Phi, who believes they don’t operate on the same battlefield.

“We’re two different businesses,” he says. “My customers

are here, theirs are there. They don’t mix.”

Le Suan, one of Phi’s customers, agrees. While he now lives in the United States, he grew up in Vietnam and defaults to local coffee joints when he returns to his home country for a visit.

“People here drink their coffee very strong. Starbucks coffee is very light,” he explains.

Cliché as it may sound, coffee is not just coffee but more a way of life in Vietnam. While it’s consumed as a morning pickme-up in parts of the western world, it’s a social activity that takes place throughout the day here. Venue options, which

range from mobile coffee carts to locally-owned cafes to bigbut-still-local names like Trung Nguyen, are pretty much limitless. The rest of the world has caught on to the great flavour of the Vietnamese coffee bean and the country is now one of the top coffee exporters in the world.

Starbucks has some equally impressive statistics with 41 years of experience and 3,300 stores in 12 countries in the China and Asia-Pacific region.

They also have an ongoing relationship with Vietnamese coffee growers. According to the company, Starbucks already

purchases a “notable amount” of high-quality arabica coffee from Vietnam and are working to buy more.

“Starbucks is deeply respectful of Vietnam’s long and distinctive local coffee culture,” John Culver, president of Starbucks China and Asia Pacific, tells AsiaLIFE. “We know coffee is a national pride for many Vietnamese and as such, we look forward to contributing and growing Vietnam’s already vibrant coffee industry.”

The company also pledges to promote responsible business practices and production standards with coffee farming communities. While this is reassuring to some, others remain concerned, especially those who’ve come from areas where large coffee chains have pushed smaller mom-and-pop

operations out of business.

Expatriate message boards started lighting up as soon as the January announcement of a soon-to-open Starbucks was made.

“Starbucks is the new war face of America. Imperial conquest is addictive. And double roasted,” one commenter quipped.

“Everywhere we look there are cafes, and you can find whatever coffee you prefer.

Starbucks is the antithesis of that idea. I'll continue to get my coffee on the corner,” vowed another.

So who is Starbucks’ target customer in Vietnam? Which patrons are willing to wait in long lines for that tall, grande or venti cup at a price substantially more than what they can get on the street? Tourists

and guests of the New World Hotel are among them. Young Vietnamese, seeking to try this internationally-known brand and perhaps hoping to impress others with it, are likely there as well.

“I think many in Vietnam know of Starbucks and want to be fashionable,” says Nguyen Phuong.

She and her friend Nguyen Nga are already part of the Starbucks in-crowd thanks to jobs that often take them outside the country. On those trips, they are regular Starbucks customers who go not for a standard cup of coffee but for the specialty drinks.

“Starbucks has so many things we don’t have here,” Phuong says. “Cappuccino is my favourite.”

“I love the taste,” adds Nga.

“As for the price, I accept it.”

The key to all coffee vendors surviving in Ho Chi Minh City may come down to menu offerings. Joints like Starbucks and Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf succeed at higher-priced specialty drinks, while coffee carts focus on their classic offerings at extremely low prices. The face of the country’s coffee culture is changing but back at the busy roundabout, where Cach Mang Thang Tam, Nguyen Trai, and Ly Tu Trong streets meet, Nguyen Phi has no intention of changing his business plan.

He’ll keep doing what he does best and his customers, he figures, will keep coming as well.

“No problem. I don’t care,” he says with a dismissive wave of his hand towards Starbucks, as he pours a cup of coffee for the next patron. asialife HCMC 31

32 asialife HCMC

Vietnam is modernising, but traditional values that prohibit sex before marriage aren’t keeping pace. By Phuc Duy. Photo by Johnny Murphy.

Just about everything was set for Ngoc and Nam’s wedding, from the photo shoot to the reception hall. But, two months before the big day, Nam’s mother discovered a life-altering secret: Her son’s fiancee was not a virgin.

The mother, a senior university professor in her late 60s, had heard whispers from colleagues and students that Ngoc had had sex with an exboyfriend. She confronted her prospective daughter-in-law, who confirmed the rumours.

“His mother forced us to cancel our wedding,” Ngoc says tearfully. “She accused me of not being a virgin, calling me a slut.”

Ngoc and Nam, whose names have been changed, are both teachers in their 20s living in Ho Chi Minh City.

Premarital sex is increasingly common in Vietnam, especially in their age group. And yet, traditional values continue to dictate that couples must wait to consummate their marriage, according to Nguyen Hoang Khac Hieu, psychology professor at the local University of Pedagogy.

He said Vietnamese hold onto these old-fashioned beliefs for two reasons.

“First, banning sex before marriage would help prevent unwanted pregnancy and sexually transmitted disease, since the health care system was not well developed in the past,” Hieu says. “Second, for moral values, keeping a woman’s virginity would lead to true love and a healthy marriage.”

It’s not just a generation of parents who dwell on virginity. Even some of Nam’s male friends agreed with his mother and advised him not to marry Ngoc in light of her supposed indiscretion.

This is despite the fact that a 2011 survey by UNICEF found that 10 percent of married couples in Vietnam, age 15 to 24, said they’d had premarital sex.

A third approve of the practice.

In a separate poll released in December, the Ministry of Education and Training said half of minors admitted to having sex.

No wonder, then, that young people place less emphasis on virginity as a prerequisite for love now.

“It is unacceptable to judge a good woman by the thin hymen,” says college student Nguyen Thi Nga, 20. “You should respect your parents, but you do not live with them forever.”

She also worried that obsession with virginity — notably skewed towards just one gender

riage,” says Hieu, the psychology professor, “but they must have good knowledge of how to protect themselves from unwanted pregnancy and sexual transmitted diseases.”

He adds, “Virginity is not a guarantee for a life-long marriage.”

Some parents are taking that to heart, like Khanh, a 58-yearold mother of three adult sons.

“Even if the parents force their kids to follow the tradition, they will have sex before marriage,” she says. “As a mother, what I care most about my daughter in-law is her personality and that she really loves my son, not just about virginity.”

Unlike Khanh, other parents, as well as secondary schools, continue to teach their children

— motivates women to lie or undergo risky operations to “restore” their hymens. Indeed, San Hai, an investigative journalist at Vietnam Student Newspaper, reported that hymenoplasties costing $100-350 are on the rise.

The medical procedures pose real, physical consequences, compared with the mostly emotional and psychological impact of discovering a deflowered bride-to-be. The more pressing matter that couples should worry about, Hieu says, is safe sex. The December survey reported that one-third of young people having sex did not use protection.

“If a man and a woman really love each other, it is their right to have sex before or after mar-

that women must preserve their virginity until marriage. It is less common now, but mothers have been known to check bed sheets for blood after the wedding night.

Of course Nam and Ngoc didn’t make it that far. The onetime fiance says he loved Ngoc even though he was disappointed to find out she had had sex. The couple, who are former students of Nam’s mother, had been dating for a year. Ngoc tried to change the matriarch’s mind, unsuccessfully.

“My mother said if I kept a relationship with Ngoc, I would not be her son anymore,” Nam says.

He went ahead with her wishes, and agreed to call off the wedding. asialife HCMC 33

The

Education Bubble

Countless schools are opening across Vietnam touting an international curriculum, while Vietnamese spend more than $1 billion each year for overseas education. How do Vietnamese parents really view international education? By Chris Mueller.

American education is the best in the world, at least according to the Vietnamese parents surveyed about international education by market research company TNS Vietnam.

The recent poll also found that of the more than 1,000 randomly selected Vietnamese respondents, about one in four were willing to enroll their children in international schools in Vietnam.

But despite the demand for international education, few Vietnamese students have ac-

cess to it and the ones that do have to pay the price.

Vietnamese families collectively spend more than $1 billion a year for their children to study abroad. In the 2011-12 academic year, Vietnam had 106,104 students studying overseas, according to statistics from the Ministry of Finance, VietnamNet reported. Vietnamese with children studying abroad spend an average of $10,000 to $15,000 a year, which means a total of between $1-1.5 billion is spent each year.

Vietnamese parents were asked where they would like their child to go to university.

Since there are so few international universities in Vietnam, for those who can afford it, going overseas is the logical option.

Where they go, though, isn’t always up to the students, says Ralf Matthaes, the regional director of TNS Vietnam. The stereotypes parents have of foreign education, rather than where the best schools actually are, appear to be the deciding factor.

“The majority of Vietnamese are poorly educated. Educated,

UK 20% Australia 19%

Singapore 7%

Canada 3% France 3% Japan 2% Others 2%

Data from TNS VietCycle Education 2011.

34 asialife HCMC

US 44%

but poorly educated,” Matthaes says. “So the parents are living vicariously through their children. They select the US because it is what they perceive as higher education. People need to understand that perceptions aren’t necessarily the reality.”

A recent study by education firm Pearson illustrates how the assumption of a superior US education system is overblown.

The study, which combined international test results and data such as graduation rates between 2006 and 2010, ranked the United States 17th out of 20.

Finland and South Korea topped the list, with the United Kingdom ranked sixth. Australia, the second most popular destination for Vietnamese students, was ranked 13th.

To Chau, who recently returned to Vietnam after studying at Austin College in Texas, says the deciding factor for her was a US State Department scholarship, but admits her preconceptions also played a role.

“I thought about going to Australia, too,” the 21 year old says. “But I though the US would be better. Maybe because of the media, and because I usually check ‘best schools’ online and they are usually from the US.” Han Hanh, 29, also says a scholarship was the overriding influence leading her to pursue her master’s degree at Temple University in Philadelphia, although advice from friends

and colleagues was part of her decision.

“I though about going to Europe and Australia, but most universities there don’t give financial aid,” she says.

“And the application processes weren’t as professional as in the US. The US universities are very generous.”

Despite her full ride, Hanh says her parents still had to give her more than $10,000 a year for living expenses.

“There is only a small percentage of Vietnamese who can pay any price requested for either international schools in Vietnam or overseas,” Matthaes says.

What’s also telling from the results of the TNS survey is that Vietnamese, similar to many in the developed world, don’t encourage their children to attend vocational training programs. Only about 2 percent of the respondents approved of that path.

“That’s a problem, because that’s what’s needed,” Matthaes says.

Flawed perceptions are affecting not just higher education abroad, but also the schools in-country to which Vietnamese parents are sending their children.

The TNS survey caused a stir in January on popular expat Google group An Phu Neighbours when results were posted showing less-thanfavourable attitudes toward some of the city’s international

schools. But most of the expats misread the data, not realising it reflected Vietnamese parents’ opinions rather than an actual ranking.

When asked which schools they thought had the best reputations, arguably two of the top international schools in the city, International School Ho Chi Minh City and British International School, came in at fourth and sixth, respectively.

The Australian International School, American International School, and American School of Vietnam were in the top three, again showing a preference for American and Australian education systems.

A quick drive around town shows that most districts have schools claiming to be ‘international’, many with 'America' worked into the names. But most do not have an internationally-certified curriculum, and many have western, but unqualified, teachers. Still, their lower price tags make these the most popular choices for international schools, even if their diplomas are often useless after graduation.

“There are so many of these schools operating and they absolutely dupe their clientele with poor teachers and poor curriculum,” Matthaes says.

If parents really want to send their children to quality schools, they’ll have to do a little more homework and rely a little less on their perceptions alone.

Perceived reputation of Ho Chi Minh City international schools by Vietnamese parents.

01 Australian International School

02 American International School

03 American School of Vietnam

04 International School of HCMC

05 Saigon South International School

06 British International School 07 ACG International School Vietnam 08 ABC International School 09 Renaissance

asialife HCMC 35

Keeping Up With the Times in Kep

The sleepy town of Kep in southern Cambodia is at a crossroads.

Writer Claire Slattery discovers its glamorous past, and looks towards its future. Additional reporting by Oudom Tat.

In the 1969 film Crepuscule, a fictional Cambodian prince drives a Chevrolet Camaro sports car along a shady coastal road, next to the tranquil waters of the Gulf of Siam. The scene was shot in the seaside hamlet of Kep, with the character played by real prince and then Prime Minister Norodom Sihanouk.

While Kep only features briefly in the movie, Serge Remy of the Vimana Association, a conservation NGO, believes it provides a valuable glimpse of the town at a time that many remember as Cambodia’s ‘golden era’.

36 asialife HCMC

“It’s one of the few moving pictures we have of the city of Kep,” he says. “Most of the documents we have are fixed pictures. [But] when you look at the movie of the king it’s so amazing to see the beach, to look at the cars … and the people, they’re really fashionable.”

In the 1950s and 1960s, following independence from French colonial rule, Cambodia experienced a renaissance of creativity and development, particularly in architecture.

Sihanouk, who died in October, personally oversaw the construction of new buildings and

the development of urban plans across the country.

The former king had a vision to turn the sleepy fishing village of Kep into the French Riviera of Southeast Asia. The town had been a popular destination for the French since the early 20th century, before becoming the holiday resort of choice for the Phnom Penh elite, who constructed villas in the New Khmer modernist style.

“Kep was like a laboratory, for architecture, for urbanism, for cinema, for leisure — because it was also the beginning of [the concept of taking] holidays for Cambodians,” Remy says.

During the Khmer Rouge regime, Kep was abandoned.

Today all that’s left of that era are the eerie, decaying remains of 157 villas owned by members of the royal family and high-ranking officials. Many are now inhabited by jungle and monkeys.

The place drips with a bittersweet nostalgia, but it is also somewhere on the precipice of potential change, as tourists return and developers circle the prime coastal real estate. For Remy, now is a vital time to plan for the city’s future.

“Kep is developing in the same way as the rest of Cam-

The former King had a vision to turn the sleepy fishing village of Kep into the ‘French Riviera’ of Southeast Asia.

Kep Beach, 1964. Archival image supplied.

Left: The late King Sihannouk's house, Kep.

bodia — it’s booming,” he says.

“And the authorities want to increase tourism there, but they aren’t sure if they want to do it in the same way as Sihanoukville or Siem Reap.”

For the past 12 months the Vimana-Cambodia Association has been developing Kep Expo, a project that documents the town’s past and creates new visions for its future. More than 60 volunteers are involved in the scheme, which also has partnered with Phnom Penh’s Bophana Audiovisual Resource Centre and the Cambodia Film Commission.

Part of the aim is to provide

authorities with alternative proposals that support Kep’s sustainable development.

French and Khmer architecture students have analysed the abandoned villas and developed plans for their refurbishment or renovation, which they will propose to owners.

“In Asia when you talk about nostalgia and heritage and the past sometimes people look at you and say ‘Why are you foreigners, and especially westerners, always in the past and always talking about heritage?’”

Remy says. “But in order to look at the future it’s important to know what’s happened before.”

Perhaps Kep’s most significant remnant is Sihanouk’s own villa, which was built in the mid-1960s and designed

by French architects. Known as the State House, it is nestled on the headland, looking out to ocean views stretching from the Vietnamese border to Bokor Mountain.

The building is now inhabited by two families who are paid a small salary to act as caretakers. While it is not officially open to the public, according to caretaker Somurn, an average of one or two tourists come a day to snoop around.

Somurn considers it a

privilege to live at the most esteemed address in town, but she wants to see the property’s future guaranteed. “My wish is that it will be a good place, I want it to be restored and to make it a proper place to honour our king.”

Kep Expo will suggest the building be renovated to become a museum, but ultimately it is up to the royal family and the Ministry of the Royal Palace to decide its future. The ministry declined to comment, but Sihanouk’s close friend and former advisor, Prince Sisowath Tomico, said that while he is supportive of the idea, he’s unaware of any immediate plans for the building.

In a country where development is rampant, it’s easy to be cynical about the future of Kep. Already, on a block of land near the city port, an old villa has been demolished to make way for the development of a large modern hotel.

But, according to Prum Chomran, the deputy of Kep Provincial Hall, the council’s planning department closely monitors building proposals and regularly asks for modifications or rejects applications outright. The city’s 20-year master plan places an emphasis on tourism and preserving

the environment, she says, as well as planning zones to limit development, particularly along the beachfront.

“I expect Kep will change and develop a lot in the next few years, but we won’t be allowing skyscrapers to be built,” Chomran says. “We want to allow Kep to develop in response to tourist’s demands, but using what we have. We will allow some large buildings, but not many, and not concentrated.”

Given Sihanouk’s vision to construct buildings that epitomised modernity and sophistication in the 1960s, it could be seen as hypocritical to ask for the Kep of today not to develop.

But over the course of this year, Remy has seen a dramatic change in the mentality of the students involved in Kep Expo.

“I think that they fell in love in Kep,” he explains. “I think that’s because, step-by-step and day-by-day, they discovered a part of their history that they didn’t know existed, and they became truly interested. They realised that it’s necessary to know what’s happened before, in order to know what we can build for the future.”

This article was produced in partnership with the Cambodian Centre for Independent Media. asialife HCMC 37

Meat, cheese and potatoes make up a classic Czech meal, but here’s how one vegan steered her way around this with a mental map of alternatives in the capital city.

Text and photos by Virginia Head.

38 asialife HCMC

M

ost people who meander through the winding roads of Prague see food everywhere they go.

But as a vegan, I took to the streets with blinders on, the meat and dairy-heavy foods irrelevant to me. Although the Czech insistence on meat and cheese in every meal began as a deep burden, it soon became a challenge I enjoyed facing head on.

In my entire year in Prague, I met just one other vegan and only a handful of vegetarians among the diverse array of international friends I’d

animal-free fare that only those who want it get to experience.

I quickly learned to keep a mental food map of where I could eat around Prague. The HappyCow website turned out to be an invaluable resource to find excellent restaurants, so many that I couldn’t make it to all of them. My favourite restaurant was Lehka Hlava (Clear Head), where you can eat under the stars and where the chefs re-imagine traditional Czech meals with meat and dairy replacements. After forgoing the classic dishes of Prague for so long, it was a great joy finally to eat local food in a completely

Locals don’t seem to believe in vegetables, so I quickly adjusted to looks of confusion whenever I passed through the supermarket lines carrying nothing but produce. acquired. Many expected I would try converting them to veganism, and many more attempted to argue me back to what they considered sanity, which I kindly ignored. One friend spent the good portion of an evening at a nightclub citing all the nutritional benefits of milk and cheese.

Despite the culinary difficulties in Czech living, I also found hidden nests of vegan deliciousness waiting to be explored by a dairy-free girl such as myself. Many markets have excellent produce sections, and if you can look past the pork spits at Christmastime and the cheese sandwich stands sprinkled across the city, you can see a whole inner circle of

different way: vegan dumplings, roasted seitan, and classic cabbage, to name a few.

Aside from these Czech reinventions, most of the vegetarian offerings flow out of the constant stream of immigrants.

Foreigners occupy 30-40 percent of the city and come from all over the world to experience Prague, while also sharing their foods of origin along the way. No strangers to foreign invasion, the Czechs embrace the culinary globalisation that constantly changes the city. The largest group of immigrants in Prague are Vietnamese, who colour the city not only with the corner grocery stores (potraviny) that can be found on almost every street, but also a

large number of Asian-inspired restaurants. Second-generation immigrants have even taken to opening Asian-fusion restaurants, which I increasingly saw pop up around the city.

Thai chain Modrý Zub never failed me, while Indian chain Dhaba Beas has a great buffet for a spectacular price. Among entirely vegetarian and vegan restaurants, generally in the Old Town district, perhaps the best known is Loving Hut. The Asian, international network of vegan eateries has taken root throughout Europe, and everywhere from Sacramento to Saigon.

Being vegan in Prague was probably one of the most interesting challenges life has thrown at me. It required patience and stamina to defend my dietary choices continuously and sometimes unexpectedly in a country that’s much less accommodating than where I grew up.

Locals don’t seem to believe in vegetables, so I quickly adjusted to looks of confusion whenever I passed through the supermarket lines carrying nothing but produce.

Vegans get our share of negative reactions, but I faced more scrutiny here than ever before.

Still, I can’t complain about the money I saved or the weight I lost by cooking for myself so often, especially compared with Austria, an equally meaty culture where I often spent my pre-Czech days taking the lazy way out and settling for falafel sandwiches. In the Czech Republic I even did the unthinkable and made exceptions. On a hike outside Prague once, I had to accept a little dairy into my life, but I survived and got a bit closer to the reality of living in a different culture — which, after all, is the point of travelling.

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Late Nosh In the early 1990s Saigon at night was a setting in film noir. With extra noir. The city was almost in wartime blackout. Not a light shone after 10pm, not even street lights, for there were none. And the often cloudy tropic skies would obscure even the moon and stars, so the dawn would become the only counterpoint to darkness. Every business was locked up tighter than a drum. Not a single bar, restaurant or even street vendor was operating. With one exception: the original Apocalypse Now, first on Dong Du, then on Mac Thi Buoi. By 10pm the joint was a lovely, lonely woman in need of company. It was an island of light and mirth in a city bound in darkness and silence.

Of course at the time it was just a scruffy little hole-in-thewall. And the misspelled little yellow neon sign advertising the house whisky, the only neon in town, emphasised its loneliness. Just a shabby little dive in any other city. Yet here it was, a come-hither siren to the would-be mariners of the night. And it really did have that poster of the movie with Martin Sheen’s signature across the bottom. Within a few years it was joined by the place on Pham Ngu Lao now known as Hung Vy. Then it was known as the Rolling Stone bar, and featured a huge collection of Stones music. It was open from “can’t to can”, 6pm to 6am. And Kim Café sometimes stayed open till 40 asialife HCMC

midnight, though it was mainly for drinks, as the regular cook would be off by then. But while drink still flowed, none of these places was good for a nosh after the witching hour.

And that sad late-night nosh situation hasn’t changed much. The “Porklips Now” thunders the night away on Thi Sac Street. And De Tham Street in the Pham has become a corridor of late night music and dance, and, one would

Sausages, even the hot dogs, are made special by a Swiss charcutier. The hot dogs taste like the World Series and the Chorizo will send your mouth to Mexico. Nachos are made with tortillas provided by the only man in Vietnam who makes genuine Mexican masa cornmeal, all from locallygrown corn. And the salsa is house-made. The pannini sings of Italy, while a few Vietnamese staples remind you of where

“Getting decent feed after midnight has always been a tough row to hoe in Ho Chi Minh.” hope, glorious excess. But getting decent feed after midnight has always been a tough row to hoe in Ho Chi Minh.

But one little late-night island has recently emerged.

Cafe Zoom at the corner of Tran Hung Dao and De Tham in District 1 has been a fixture for some time. And it has been popular with daytime and early-evening crowds. But it’s under new management now, a management that is looking late into the night with a food lover’s eye. It’s true that in this neighbourhood you can get a post-midnight cockle or a mussle at a shop around the corner. Or you can settle for a white bread sandwich with canned ham or tuna at one of the music venues. But at Zoom you can tuck into true comfort food.

you are. All the buns, breads and anything else out of an oven come from the same specialised bakery that provides for top-flight places like Black Cat. The menu is necessarily short, but every item is lovingly prepared from quality ingredients.

A short drinks menu features high end spirits, beer and wine priced to make you want to return some late night.

We still don’t live in a 24hour city, and I doubt we ever will. But since that scruffy little dive opened back in the 90s, with its crazy neon sign and tattered but famous movie poster, we’ve had places to drink the night away. Now, finally, at the end of our revels, or just anytime the mood strikes, whether dine in, take out or deliver, sustenance sits on the corner.

See you there at 2am.

Frangipani Hoa Su Le Thuy Nga has been passionate about food from a young age. Her father taught her how to cook, using family recipes that were perfected before 1975, when Vietnamese food was as authentic as ever. So last December Nga, together with her husband, decided to branch away from the fashion business to share some of these homestyle recipes.

Down a hushed street in Thao Dien, Frangipani seems to be the only building open after the sun goes down. Its bright lights are a welcome sight in the otherwise quiet and deserted area. With a mainly open-air set-up and sections of clay-tile

With a variety of dishes from all over the country, this restaurant in District 2 takes a classy but unpretentious approach to Vietnamese dining. By Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink.

roof to keep the elements out, the restaurant maintains a Vietnamese vibe, but with fullsize tables and chairs for more comfortable dining.

On the evening when we dined, a large party of about 20 already was drinking heavily at the bar before taking seats at a long table next to us. Thankfully Frangipani’s open-air design and huge dining area means it can handle large, rowdy dinner parties while at the same time allowing smaller groups to eat in peace. The restaurant also has an open kitchen and a playground for kids, all so customers will feel at home.

While we waited for our first

dish, bo bop thau (VND 89,000), a beef salad in vinegar and herbs, we were given some potato-chip-like crispy taro chips with a chilli and oil sauce for dipping, a great snack to ease hunger pangs. The beef salad, while not exactly unique, is one of my favourite ways to start a Vietnamese meal, and this one was fresh and clearly MSG-free, as the restaurant promises.

Next we tried the oc chuoi nau dau (VND 145,000), a hearty stew-like dish with large snails, turmeric sauce and tofu.

A northern specialty, the dish was well-balanced with equal parts chewy snail and soft tofu.

The Hai Phong native eating with us said it was just like back home.

To finish off the meal, we ordered the ca bong lau kho to (VND 165,000), catfish in a clay pot with sweet and sour catfish soup. I consider catfish the most difficult fish to prepare.

Do it incorrectly and you might as well be eating mud, but done properly, like this one was, it is as good as any fish out there.

26 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 09 03 30 11 63 6.30am to 11.00pm, seven days Facebook.com/frangipanihoasuresto/bar asialife HCMC 41

Cafe Alex Appearances can be deceiving.

At first glance, Cafe Alex is nothing more than your typical Vietnamese cafĂŠ, a small, openair space adorned with hanging plants and plastic wicker chairs. But tucked away on a shady side street off Nguyen Thi Thap in the more Vietnamese area of District 7, this restaurant is quickly making a name for itself.

The owner, Chris, takes a no-frills approach to his menu, which features a variety of British comfort food, such as bangers and mash (VND 130,000), liver and bacon (VND 115,000), and even a Sunday 42 asialife HCMC

A quiet, laid-back cafe in District 7 serves some of the city's best British food. By Dana Filek-Gibson. Photos by Fred Wissink.

roast (VND 150,000, made to order). The English breakfast (VND 110,000) is also hugely popular.

You won't find the polished interior of a typical expat pub here. From the atmosphere to the furnishings to the single laminated page that constitutes a menu, Cafe Alex is a local place that just happens to serve western fare. The restaurant's advertising remains largely by word-of-mouth, with a small following among expats.

One of the restaurant's more popular dishes is the traditional English bangers and mash.

Besides a healthy serving of

rich, creamy mashed potatoes and fresh green peas, the two hearty sausages are the star of the plate, complemented nicely by thick British gravy and onions. Portions are westernsized as well, meaning one plate is plenty to indulge your craving for a home-cooked meal.

For an equally satisfying but slightly lighter option, fish and chips (VND 105,000) are another British dish done right. Cooked to perfection, the battered basa fish is crispy on the outside but savoury and tender on the inside. Just as important are the chips, which

are cut thick and made to order. Request some authentic British tartar sauce, one of the hard-to-find ingredients Cafe Alex offers.

Beyond a laid-back ambiance and incredible food, the cafe also boasts cold beer, Tetley tea, and European football, and Chris is currently trying to build a DVD and book exchange. There is also live music on Wednesday nights, when anyone can join house musician Jonney Gavin for a jam session.

36 Duong 40, D7 09 03 98 80 34 7am till late, seven days

Geisha Cafe Above a small clothing shop on Pasteur Street, Geisha Cafe is making the most of its space and central location, by offering a little something for everyone.

With only a few tables and sofas on the ground floor in front of racks of clothes (designed by the owner) for sale, Geisha doesn’t seem like much of a café at first. But upstairs, the shop disappears, giving way to a chilled-out atmosphere.

During the day the sun shining through a large window at the front of the building warms the whole room, which is further accentuated by deep red carpets and plush seating. But thanks to its board game room upstairs and weekly music nights, the café transforms from a relaxed

A cafe in central District 1 with a small but diverse menu, plus lively game and music nights. By Chris Mueller.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

hangout in the day to a lively venue at night with a growing base of loyal customers.

Its menu, too, has a little something for everyone.

Manager Joan Manalang, who studied cooking in Italy, took charge of the café three months ago and has chosen to forgo her fine dining cooking skills for a simpler menu of small mains, snacks and desserts.

The fried chicken and chips (VND 99,000) are definitely on the heartier side of the menu. Presented on a wooden cutting board with a side of mayonnaise and thick-cut chips wrapped in newspaper, this simple comfort food is not an easy find in the city and it doesn’t disappoint.

The chicken kebab and corn fried rice (VND 109,000) and the peppered pork and capsicum fried rice (VND 89,000) are two more filling, yet somewhat healthier, options. The kebabs are well-flavoured, covered in a mix of cumin, curry powder, paprika and cayenne. The spice mix has a light kick, but isn’t too hot or overpowering. For some lighter options, try the rolls with flavours like ham and omelette (VND 75,000) and spinach and cream cheese (VND 85,000) Before heading to the dessert we wash everything down with a mint and kiwi juice (VND 60,000), one of the many choices off the drink menu, which also has cocktails, beer, tea and Vergnano coffee.

To finish things off, we sample the matcha green tea and chocolate rolls (VND 75,000) with a side of extra matcha powder and strawberry panna cotta (VND 49,000). The soft rolls melt in the mouth and the homemade panna cotta is a light and creamy end to the meal.

The owners are still ironing out the kinks, but the already popular board game room upstairs, mixed with weekly live music, is quickly turning Geisha into one of the more interesting cafes in town.

85 Pasteur, D1 08 38 29 40 04 8am to 10pm Facebook.com/geishascafe asialife HCMC 43

The Opera Nights of Old Saigon Often taken for granted by travellers and expats alike, the Saigon Opera House has been a constant fixture in the city, surviving devastating wars and relentless modern development. John Gardner takes a look at the history of the 115-year-old theatre. Photo by Fred Wissink.

As cultural landmarks go, the Saigon Opera House falls easily into the ‘right under your nose’ category. The 115-year-old theatre reigns majestically over bustling Lam Son Square, the 44 asialife HCMC

historic and cinematic heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Traffic pours into the plaza at all hours, whirlpools around the Opera House, and shoots out at some other corner.

Captured on hundreds of DSLRs every day and lit up like an oversize music box in a sea of motorcycles, the nucleus of Vietnam’s most progressive city is impossible to miss. And

An evening at the opera is still a viable excuse — perhaps the only one left — to dress to the nines.

yet as long as I’ve worked at the Caravelle Hotel just opposite the theatre, I’ve had the sense that the vast majority of visitors do miss, or at least overlook, the building.

A venture up the steps, a stroll past on the sidewalk, a few obligatory wide-angle shots are not enough to appreciate the building’s centurylong story.

Built in 1897 under the direction of three French architects with a design specified by Monsieur Ferret Eugene, the

façade of the Opera de Saigon as it was then called was an echo of the Petit Palais, built the same year in France. Its revolving stage and three-tiered, 800-seat galleries soon became a stopping point for touring French troupes.

For a time, evenings at the Opera de Saigon provided cultural diversions and world-class shows to the city’s thriving middle class. But as the mood shifted between WWI and WWII and the expatriate community flocked

to dance halls and nightclubs for their after-hours entertainment, audiences at the theatre dwindled, and performances grew more sporadic.

In the early 1940s, together with the rest of the country, the building entered into a turbulent period that lasted more than three decades. In 1943, some of the ornaments and statues on the theatre façade were removed after being criticised as overly ornate. The following year, the building’s exterior was further disfigured in Allied air raids. Its halls sheltered French civilians fleeing North Vietnam before being occupied by the lower house assembly of the State of Vietnam in 1955.

After the Fall of Saigon in 1975, the building was renamed the Ho Chi Minh Municipal Theatre and took up its original function again.

The exterior was restored and the interior renewed in 1998 to mark the 300th anniversary of the founding of Saigon, yielding the Opera House that greets tourists today.

From the street or from the windows in the old wing of the Caravelle Hotel, you can glimpse a pair of luminous statues of the Goddess of Art

gazing out over the stone veranda, and the winged angels resting atop its central arch.

But the real aesthetic value of the building’s classical European style is best appreciated from inside the theatre.

An evening at the opera is still a viable excuse — perhaps the only one left — to dress to the nines. On performance nights, a stylish stream of guests ascend the stairs and are greeted on the marble-tiled first floor, before taking seat in the auditorium beneath a ceiling awash in Greco-Roman engravings. During intermission, guests spill from the halls onto small verandas to take in the ambiance of the streets.

The sensation of being on your own balcony overlooking the centre of Saigon is at once nostalgic, romantic and hard to pin down, but there is perhaps no better place to catch the afterglow of a city once adored as the “Paris of the East”.

John Gardner is the general manager of the Caravelle Hotel, which has just launched ‘Opera Nights’, a package that includes accommodation in the Opera Suite, a three-course dinner and two tickets to “Hon Viet: The Soul of Vietnam”. asialife HCMC 45

In Bloom

Model: Naomi Nilsson; Clothes: BoAime Above Model: Maddie Cox; Clothes: Tran Quynh Tran Opposite Model: Sunny Shine; Clothes: Cuc Boutique 19 Chan Cam, Hanoi

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48 asialife HCMC

Model: Sunny Shine; Clothes: Cuc Boutique, 19 Chan Cam, Hanoi Opposite Model: Maddie Cox; Clothes: Tran Quynh Tran Photographer: Thai Pham

asialife HCMC 49

www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

listings

hotel & travel

CON DAO

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

AIRLINES

Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 0360 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to E conomy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320

escape

DALAT

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

activities

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com

Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

activities

Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG

Banyan Tree Lang Co Tel: 84 54 3695 888 The resort is inspired by the artistic heritage of Vietnamese dynasties past, features 32 lagoon pool villas, 17 beach pool villas, an array of eclectic dining experiences from modern Thai cuisine to French specialties, 18-hole championship course designed by Sir Nick Faldo, delivers a golfing experience that can be enjoyed by skilled and novice players alike.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Famous Food

The Angsana Lang Co resort is teaming up with celebrity chef Bobby Chinn for a gala dinner 6 April. Known for his books, restaurants, and cross country adventures, Chinn will present a Vietnamese-Asian fusion menu. Angsana is a modern retreat nestled in an unspoiled landscape not far from the Cham sanctuaries of My Son, as well as Hue, Da Nang, and Hoi An. From now until 28 March, guests who book the Must Dine promotion at $553 for two people can join the dinner and get a second night's stay free. Book at reservations-langco@angsana. com or 05 43 69 58 00.

Get a Tour and a Massage

Anantara’s shoreline resort in Mui Ne comes with luxury rooms, suites and pool villas from which to launch tours of the area’s

50 asialife HCMC

“Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

white and red sand dunes, fishing village, Lotus Lake, and Fairy Stream. From now until 25 Dec, book two nights starting at $164 per night and get the half-day tour, plus a 60-minute spa treatment for two.

Choose from the aromatic foot massage, back massage, sea salt body scrub, or green tea body wrap. Details at Mui-ne. anantara.com.

Dining in Danang

Mercure Danang Hotel has a dim sum buffet 11am-2pm daily for VND 350,000, as well as whole Hong Kong duck for VND 380,000 until 31 March. It also is bringing back BBQ by the pool 6pm Fridays with unlimited beer for VND 400,000. On other days, look for the live band while dining alfresco. At the hotel's Karma Spa this month, women get a 30-minute sea salt

body scrub with any 80-minute treatment.

There's also a 170-minute, VND 1.5 million pamper package with a steam, hot tub, sesame seed body scrub, body massage, manicure and pedicure. Contact 05 11 37 97 77 7 or H7821@accor.com.

HUE

Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresorts.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG

Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET

Villa Aria Muine 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660 www.villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Muine is a boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan province. Set on a beautiful beachfront in the middle of the Mui Ne strip, the villa combines modern tropical style and French country luxury.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com

Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort

SAPA

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.

MGM Grand Ho Tram Beach Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 8 3528 5286 www.mgmgrandhotrambeach.com MGM Grand Ho Tram Beach is Vietnam’s first large-scale, fully-integrated luxury beach resort and entertainment destination. With beautifully appointed five-star rooms, numerous activities, world-class restaurants, and a luxurious spa, this resort offers guests a premium hospitality experience in a spectacular natural setting.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District

Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

VUNG TAU

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

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listings

indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.Relaxed environment with frequent live music.

Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from 9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around.

food & drink

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Red Lion Pub Saigon 9a Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 08 62 99 13 03 Located down Ngo Van Nam Street, this proper British pub — the first of its kind in Saigon — has four beers on tap, a wide range of bottled beers, spirits and cocktails, and a menu offering iconic British dishes.

BAR RESTAURANTS Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes.

Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Chilli Pub 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 73 01 13 77 An intimate pub on a popular bar street that serves pub grub and its famous bowls of chilli. It also has a pool table, dart boards and TVs for watching sports.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating

feast

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.  Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17

For the month of March, Square One brings the taste of the ocean with a menu that incorporates fresh seafood and produce from different regions of Vietnam. Expect subtle textures, flavours and nuances, as well as technically sound dishes from Nha Trang lobster baked thermidor or as curry for VND 250,00 per 100 grams, to the Mekong Delta live mud crabs tossed with tamarind for VND 790,000, to the Phan Thiet red garoupa for VND 2.3 million. For more visit Restaurants.parkhyattsaigon.com or call 08 38 24 12 34.

Otherwise known as the new food capital, Piedmont is Italy’s northwestern region and the most progressive culinary scene in the country. Opera pays homage this March to the birthplace of some of the

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The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza.  ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

CAFES

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

CHINESE

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Out to Sea

A Taste of Italy

Sheridan's Irish House 24 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

world's most revered food and wines.

Painting a picture on a plate and appeasing the palate, Chef Marco presents his take on Piedmont’s traditional dishes. The special of the month is Ossobuco Milanese, slow-braised Australian Mulwarra veal shank with saffron risotto for VND 590,000. See about the multi-course offerings with options like quail egg, oxtail or polenta. Contact details above.

Eggs-traordinary

From 16-22 March, the Caravelle’s Lobby Lounge is serving Chinese egg tarts, followed by high tea on 30 March. The tea comes with three tiers of such nibbles as tandoori chicken pastry or seared duck. At the nearby restaurant Nineteen, an Easter Sunday brunch on 31 March will include ratatouille, rabbit, and dark chocolate eggs with white mousse, as well as champagne and margaritas for

VND 1,144,000. Also at the restaurant is a dinner buffet in honour of Woman’s Day on 8 March for VND 1 million. Or head upstairs to Reflections restaurant 5-9 March for beef week, or to the rooftop Saigon Saigon Bar for a VND 880,000 seafood platter. 19 Lam Son Square, D1, 08 38 23 49 99, Caravellehotel.com.

street gourmet

and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

FRENCH

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer. 

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, panfried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Mi Quang Quang noodle soups are a specialty of Quang Nam province and Danang.

They generally have just enough pork and dried shrimp based broth to cover the noodles. What makes Quang noodle soups unique is the richness and complex flavours of the broth. A bowl of mi Quang is served

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688

with rice or egg noodles at the bottom and meat and seafood on top. Then vegetables and coarsely ground peanuts are added and it is served with pieces of crispy rice paper. Mi Quang can be found throughout Vietnam and should cost between VND 15,000 to VND 60,000.

Khoa Nguyen

Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere Chefs David Thai an Alexis Melgrani are well known industry figures and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants

INDIAN

Ashoka 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 37444177 / 37444144 33 Tong Huu Dinh (Street 53), D2 Tel: 744 4177 www.ashokaindianrestaurant.com Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular and enduring Indian restaurants with a reputation for good food with wide range of North Indian culinary traditions and service at a reasonable price. Large space for private parties and outdoor catering also available.

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu. 

Blanchy's Tash 93 - 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapaslike snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first

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foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexc Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks. 

Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event. 

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm. 

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.  Le Steak de Saigon 15 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 38 22 45 93 On one of the fancier streets in the centre of District 1, this small steakhouse has limited options, but its set meal, which includes a steak, salad and fries or mashed potatoes for only VND 200,000, is probably one of the better deals in town.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Scott & Binh’s 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat Street, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 094 890 14 65 Bizuhotel.com A friendly, laid back restaurant in Phu My Hung that serves “comfort food with a twist”. Run by American chef Scott Marquis, this small joint offers classic favourites that are consistently well prepared, making it a popular stop for expats and visitors.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine

with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end

imbibe

What is Wine?

By Darryl Bethea Wine is the product of fermented grape juice (sugar and yeast) that has turned into alcohol. The resulting liquid is aged for months or years and then stored in wood barrels or steel tanks until it is ready to be put into bottles. Wine actually can be made from other fruits, but grapes are preferred due to their naturally high sugar and water content. Of the more than 5,000 known species of grapes used for wine, there are only six whose products are considered noble, the royalty of the grape world.

The white grapes are: Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc Riesling The red grapes are: Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Pinot Noir There are other popular grapes such as Malbec, Syrah or Shiraz, Sangiovese, Pinot Grigio, and Chenin Blanc, but the aforementioned are considered the cornerstones of the finest wines in the world.

In the realm of wine you have the Old World and the New World. The Old World refers to the original winemaking countries and regions such as France, Italy, Germany and Spain. The New World refers to the rest of the globe, especially Australia, New Zealand, the United States, Chile and Argentina.

Old World wines are in general more an expression

of the terroir of the region (the environmental differences of the land) and the grape’s inherent flavours. Some people describe them as more elegant, complex and earthy.

New World wines are more fruit-driven, and sometimes more powerful, with higher alcohol levels. But these are broad characterisations; some wines combine the best of the Old and the New Worlds. You should use these generalisations as a guide or a good foundation to build on as you taste more wines of the world.

Learning a new language is challenging, but once you start and continue to learn, the rewards are hard to measure.

You may never master the language of wine since there is always something new, so stop reading and talking about wine and start to taste, drink and enjoy it with every evening meal. Taste New and Old World wines and learn the differences. You are free to start your own wine culture in your family.

Practice often, with family and friends. The rewards are delicious, and will give you more joy than you could imagine. Fluency in any language makes life more enjoyable, and wine is no different.

Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World and is a certified sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers. Contact Darryl at 09 3378 5005 or email Darryl@finewinesasia. com.

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local eats

street gourmet

Che

By Tristan Ngo A Downtown Chinese Noodle House Right in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City near the Elbow Room I happened to find this gem of a Chinese-style noodle house. This clean restaurant opened a few months ago and offers some tasty dishes.

I love this style of noodle house, with food ranging from hoanh thanh mi (wonton noodles), mi bo kho (beef stew) and my favorite sui cao (shrimp dumpling). The wontons and dumplings are wellmade and the taste is spot on.

What I find surprising is that the broth is well-flavoured and nuanced, a taste that usually takes years to get just right.

Make sure to order a large bowl of xi quach as a side dish to your noodles. Xi quach are chunks of beef or pork bones with some meat and cartilage attached. They normally use these to make the broth so that everything literally falls off the bones. Also order a fresh hot or cold soybean drink, or an herbal one, quite refreshing.

Vietnam, eating vegetarian a few times a month for health and spiritual enlightenment is a good thing. I have to admit that I am not a big fan of vegetarian cuisine and am very skeptical when it comes to meat-free eateries. They simply are not as tasty and most try to copy meat dishes for flavour and texture.

Skepticism aside, I found An Nhien Quan, a cosy but busy restaurant that is located on a quiet street in District 1 and that seats 35 to 40. Soybean, tofu, green beans and other vegetables dominate the menu here. I ordered an assorted dish of banh beo, fried rice, banana flower salad, mushroom spring rolls, hot pot, and iced tea. As advertised, they use actual vegetarian products such as straw mushrooms, corn and okra as the base for most of their dishes. The result is pleasant and flavourful.

Our bill for four came to VND 487,000. The owners were attentive and friendly, and would not accept tips of any kind.

Hung Ky 252 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 6am to 1pm, 4pm to 11pm VND 30-35,000/bowl

An Nhien Quan 94 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 9.30am to 10pm 08 39 10 11 29

Vegetarian Food For Skeptics Vegetarian restaurants have become popular and chic in recent years. With a large population of Buddhists in

Tristan Ngo is the chef and owner of The Elbow Room and Skewers, two popular restaurants in District 1. You can contact him at ngotristan@ yahoo.com.

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Often translated as ‘pudding’, che is more like a combination of a sweet stew and a drink.

Tapioca, corn, beans and sticky rice are simmered with coconut milk in huge pots, and flavoured with palm sugar and

traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  La Trattoria del Buon Vino 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: (0163) 4991625 Half Italian restaurant and half wine bar and jazz lounge, La Trattoria offers a remix of classical Italian cuisine with a contemporary, innovative touch in its restaurant and a chill, electronic atmosphere in the wine bar and jazz lounge on the third floor.

Lucca 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 08 39 15 36 92 A centrally located trattoria, café and bar that gets lively at lunchtime but has space enough for a mellow meal.

Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare.

Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

JAPANESE

Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com

pandanus leaves. Che is served either cold with crushed ice in a tall glass or warm in a bowl. Either way, che is pure comfort food. Expect to pay between VND 3,000 to VND 10,000.

Khoa Nguyen

Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN

25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant.

Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Baan Thai 55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453 If you have been missing the delights of Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant and bar should be for you. The Thai chefs whip up all the traditional dishes you know and love, while in the bar there are a host of drinks and activities to help while away an evening.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN

An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.”  Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light.

Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch, set dinner, International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Blue Crab 49D Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2008 This seafood restaurant has some of the most well-prepared and cheapest seafood in town. Its menu offers everything from prawns, scallops and lobster to pork ribs and crab, all for rock-bottom prices.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go around 80,000 -150,000.

Convivial atmosphere, contemporary Italian food styles and International chefs ...

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES

See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices.

Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/ beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

M52 Bar 52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726 Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably priced drinks noted for packing a punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile.

Tib Chay 11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460 Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese vegetarian appetisers, salads, soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences

Take away, corporate functions & special events catered for ...

WE WINE ...

WE DINE Relax in Casa’s casual dining upstairs or downstairs ...

Experience a taste of comfort and converse with our friendly staff ...

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master of mixology

of contemporary design and opium dens.

Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

BREWHOUSES

Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic. There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

NIGHTCLUBS

Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free.

St Patty’s in Saigon

By Matt Myers Ah, 17 March, the day all of us Irish Catholics are allowed (if not expected) to be drunk in public. We all cram into some stinky bar, eat corned beef with endless pints of Guinness and shots of Jameson or Red Breast Whisky. Every Irish pub becomes the most popular bar in the city for that day. It is the one day everyone can be “Irish”.

Before the bars start to overflow in the city, I recommend the serious St. Patty’s revelers come up with a plan.

Here is my advice for St Patrick’s Day in Ho Chi Minh City: • Figure out which bars have Guinness draught (or at least Guinness cans).

• Get to the bar early and get a good seat. Sit close to the bartender or near the service well. It may be noisy, but worth it, when you need a beer quickly. Tipping also helps.

• Wait patiently, because proper pouring is a slow work of art for Guinness. (Interesting fact: While drinking Guinness may make you feel full, it

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is actually quite low in calories and alcohol by volume.)

• Don’t sit near the band.

While I love good Irish music, sitting too close can be a jarring experience if the acoustics of the bar are not right. Plus, St Patrick is about spending time with friends and family, and yelling over the band can spoil the moment.

• Save the whisky for after the corned beef and cabbage.

The wrong mix of alcohol and fats in the stomach could be disastrous, especially if you have to work the next day.

• Look for a good Irish whisky that everyone else is drinking, but beware of cheap imposters. If there is a lot of dust on the bottle, this is a bad sign. Stick to Jameson or Red Breast. Fake or low-quality spirits are full of congeners — byproducts of the fermentation process — that will give you a headache fast and leave you with a mean hangover.

Matt Myers is the director of beverage for MGM Grand Ho Tram Beach.

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

at home BAKERIES

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING

Saigon Catering 41A Vo Truong Toan, D2

Tel: 3898 9286 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s. For a custommade quotation e-mail SaigonGG@ gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

DELIVERY

www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walkin fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

listings

culture CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber,

who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen.

Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897

LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions.

Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

free shuttle bus service available

+84 96 935 2824

www.aisvietnam.com

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listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKET

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/ football area and outdoor gym equipment.

Available for party hire, with BBQ included

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on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

fitness

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge work-out area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Suzanne & Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 suzanne@saigonyoga.com Suzanne is an ERYT- 200 (Experienced) Yoga Alliance Instructor. She boasts two decades of experience, offering various yoga styles in District 2 and yoga retreats in Vietnam.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends.

Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799

Risk Factors

By Phil Kelly Sometimes the expat lifestyle can get the best of us. Cheap food and alcohol, mixed with a tropical climate, can affect our waistlines and health in more ways than we realise. Here are some important things to keep in mind while acclimating to the region: Our bodies are 75 percent water, so hydration is essential for all bodily processes and functions. A mere 2 percent drop in our body's water supply can trigger dehydration, which is often mistaken for hunger, resulting in overeating.

The exact amount of water you should drink is dependent on factors like age, sex, size, composition and activity levels, so the best rule to follow is that of clarity: your urine should be clear or have a slight yellowish tinge.

Coconuts, which we are lucky to have in abundance here, are another great way to stave off dehydration. Coconut water is not the solution to all your problems, but it does convey some excellent therapeutic benefits. Research shows it supports hydration, helps fight the aging process, can lower cholesterol, improves insulin sensitivity, and lowers blood pressure. A coconut a day can really keep the doctor away, as well as help you stay lean and healthy.

Dietary toxins, which limit our ability to mobilise and burn fat, pose the other major risk for foreigners living in Southeast Asia. Two of the major toxins are:

1. Monosodium Glutamate (MSG), which is used widely to enhance flavours in Southeast Asian cuisine. MSG is known to cause brain damage, obesity and reproductive disorders, behavioural disorders, adverse reactions, and neurodegenerative disease. Avoid MSG wherever possible.

2. Alcohol: Expats in Asia tend to drink a lot. All this drinking can take its toll, causing weight gain in a number of ways. Since alcohol is the second highest energy-providing nutrient (7kcal per gram) behind fat (9kcal per gram ), drinking it increases energy consumption. It also causes dehydration, affects liver function (one of the main roles of the liver is to metabolise/burn fat), and weakens and poisons the immune system. Sleep deprivation usually goes hand in hand with heavy drinking and this, too, has a considerable impact on fat storage. Both alcohol and not enough sleep are big contributors to gaining fat around your belly.

If you can control and moderate these aspects of your lifestyle you will adjust more easily, maintain your weight and decrease the risk of falling prey to sickness or poor performance.

Phil Kelly is a health practioner and expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness, online or at your home. Contact him through Phil-kelly.com.

www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months.

Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

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LEISURE

Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

listings

local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

health & beauty

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

COSMETIC TREATMENT

Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign &

Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

HAIR & SALON

Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments and medicated acne treatments. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

MEDICAL

Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist

medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-theart medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong.

Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 2nd fl., Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1. Tel: 3911 1860 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

Human Medicine – International Clinic (HMIC) 601B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 6264 6957 http://humanmedicineclinic.com Providing a state of the art health-care solution to prevent, diagnose and treat a variety of medical conditions. HMIC is dedicated to give a family-centered care with talented team of healthcare professionals, technology and customerfriendly environment. The modern clinic hosts a range of highly trained and experienced medical specialists and managed by Western-trained doctors.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport

and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

NAILS

OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

SKINCARE

Avon 186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 4018 HCMC branch of the world’s largest direct seller of cosmetics occupies the ground floor of District 3 villa, selling brand names like Anew, Skin-So-Soft and Avon Natural.

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3926 0336 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

Dermalogica Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 www.dermalogica.com U.S. brand of cleansers popular among skin care professionals. The line of toners, exfoliants, moisturizers and masques are engineered by skin therapists to be free of common irritants, and the company is categorically opposed to animal testing.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano.

L’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and hand care products are especially well known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day.

IN THE HEART OF THE CITY, A

FOR THE

MEDICAL CENTER

HEARTS

For the health of your family, choose CMI! OF VIETNAM

To choose CMI is choosing high quality healthcare performed by a commited medical team.

Speech and language therapy Osteopathy

Traditional oriental medecine

Psychiatry Gynaecology

General and tropical pratice

Paediatrics

Psychomotor therapy Cardiology

Homecare

Psychology

Dietetics Childbirth education courses

To choose CMI is also choosing to support the Alain Carpentier Foundation and the Heart Institute of Ho Chi Minh City.

Since 1992, thanks to the Foundation and to the CMI, the Heart Institute has saved more than 4,000 Vietnamese children who suffered from heart disease.

All the revenues of CMI are decicated to those children.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL - ALAIN CARPENTIER FOUNDATION 1 Han Thuyen, D1, Ho Chi Minh City. info@cmi-vietnam.com. www.cmi-vietnam.com Tel : (84.8) 38.27.23.67 - (84.8) 38.24.58.74 - Fax : (84.8) 28.27.23.65

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kids corner

listings

family ACTIVITIES DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Potty Training

By Gemma Jones It is no exaggeration to say that most parents dread potty training. But even during the most testing of moments, a little mantra that I use really can help: “No more nappies, no more nappies.” Running around cleaning up after yet another accident is not fun, but this really is a time to think of the long game.

Most parents start potty training around their child’s second birthday, but all children are different and when to start depends on their development. Living in a tropical climate is a great help, as children can run around with fewer clothes on, meaning that potty training can start any time of year.

There are a few key signals that show a child is ready to banish nappies, such as showing an interest when others go to the loo, disliking a soiled nappy, making it clear a change is due, and having a dry nappy for a few hours a day.

If you decide to use a potty, bring your youngster with you to help choose and buy it, and explain what it is for. The key is to stay positive throughout the process and not to be too pushy. Ask your child if she would like to sit on the potty or toilet. If the answer is “no” don’t be forceful,

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but if it’s “yes” then leave the nappy off and sit her on the toilet throughout the day.

Give praise for sitting on it and then say: “Show me how you pee.” Maybe give out a book to keep them on the potty or toilet a little longer.

Another obvious, but often overlooked, idea is to put on loose clothes that are easy to pull up and down, and show the child how to undo or pull down her trousers.

Expect accidents. If this happens, never get angry as this will only scare the child and set the process back.

Get down to her level, make eye contact and cheerfully say: “Oh dear, we need to get you a change of clothes, remember to tell me if you need a poop or pee and you can use the potty or toilet, OK?” Potty training can take anything from one week to several months — stick with it and eventually your toddler will become dry. It will work out in the end as long as you stay positive.

Gemma Jones has been working in child care for more than 10 years. She holds an NNEB diploma in nursery nursing and is currently a creative writing teacher at Zaman International School in Phnom Penh.

Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Belli Blossom 4F-04 (4th Floor) Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 6615 www.belliblossom.com.vn contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others.

Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extracurricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Xi Early Childhood Centre 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Early Childhood & Primary School Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior School East-West Highway, An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP school. Senior students follow Cambridge A levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the

University of New South Wales (UNSW) Foundation Studies Year 12 curriculum.

Well-resourced classrooms, highly qualified and experienced teachers, excellent facilities that support academic, creative and sporting activities. Book a tour at enrolments@aisvietnam.com.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curriculabased education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities.

Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

ERC 86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore. Founded by a group of successful business leaders around Asia Pacific. Our primary objective is to groom and mentor a new generation of business leaders in Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze and solve real-world business challenges of today.

assurance they can enter or re-enter the German Education System at any time.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

KinderStar Kindergarten 08 Dang Dai Do, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5411 8118/9 Offering bilingual preschool program with capacity up to 900 students with the most updated international standard.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn German International School Montessori utilizes an internationally 730F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien recognized educational method which Tel: 7300 7257 focuses on fostering the child’s natural www.gis.vn desire to learn. The aim is to create an A bilingual English and German school, encouraging environment conducive to supported by the Federal Republic of learning by developing a sense of self and Germany, where children can learn individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ subjects in both languages. The curSoM AL March copy.pdf 1 2/26/13 2:45 PM extra-curricular activities are on offer riculum follows the National Curriculum including Bilingual programs. of Germany, which provides students the

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.

The American School Vietnam - TAS 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Te: 3519 2223 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn A complete American curriculum with challenging Advanced Placement (AP), dual enrollment with USA Misouri Sate University all directed by a certified Guidance Counselor. The California Standards of Learning are the framework for the program of studies of all grade levels. Enrollment from nursery to grade 12.

ENTERTAINMENT

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons.

Also provides helium balloons.

finance

listings

living

camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS BUSINESS GROUPS

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag.

AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org

iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans.

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com

British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org

Deferred Taxes

By Afonso Vieira The US fiscal cliff was postponed but the House of Representatives bill passed in January actually doesn’t raise the debt limit. Instead it simply eliminates the borrowing cap until 19 May. So until then, the US Treasury can borrow as much as it needs, without limit, to meet its current obligations as they come due. On 19 May, the statutory debt limit resets to whatever the outstanding federal debt balance is at that point. And unless this temporary measure is extended or a longer term increase in the debt ceiling is passed, the Treasury is back to square one. How did the United States get here?

The first debt ceiling was enacted in 1917, just after the United States entered World War I. It authorised the sale of bonds worth $7.5 billion, the equivalent of 12 percent of the gross national product (GNP) at the time. Since then the ceiling has been raised 107 times. Growth in the public debt accelerated following the 1971 default. The United States had, since 1934, borrowed dollars convertible into gold at a fixed price of $35 per ounce. When Nixon redefined the currency as an uncollateralised piece of paper instead of a convertible one (thereby defaulting on debts denominated in gold dollars) the debt ceiling stood at around $400 billion, roughly 35 percent

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of GNP. From that point on, equipped with the reservecurrency “privilege”, the United States has been able to pay its foreign debts in its own currency, of which it is the only manufacturer. When gold was the world’s money, there were no such “privileges”. One nation’s currency was as good as another’s.

Skipping ahead, George W Bush left the presidency in January 2009 with a debt limit of roughly 80 percent of GNP. With generation-low interest rates — never had it hurt so little to borrow so much — Obama’s administration increased the debt ceiling to more than 100 percent of GNP, or $16 trillion. Who will pay? As a matter of definition, the public debt is deferred taxes, pure and simple.

Even if the fiscal cliff is delayed and flattened somewhat, US government spending almost certainly will become an even stronger headwind to growth during this decade.

With low growth in the United States (and other wealthy countries), companies and private investors will look for emerging and frontier markets like Vietnam in which to place their money.

Afonso Vieira is the investment manager of Total Wealth Management. You can contact him at afonso.vieira@t-wm. com.

CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration, providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc

Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

DECOR

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Mekong-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

PERSONAL FINANCIAL PLANNING

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com

Mekong Creations 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

8

(84 8) 39104545 www.victoriavn.com

MARCH

Enjoy your life “Victoria Healthcare celebrates the International Women’s Day on March 8th with a privileged program to say thanks to mothers, sisters, daughters, friends and all amazing women.”

Promotion program

- 20% discount on doctor’s consultation fee from March 6th – 8th - 01 Free First Aid kit as using Health check-up packages in March VICTORIA HEALTHCARE MY MY INTERNATIONAL CLINICS Clinic 1: 79 Dien Bien Phu Str., District 1, HCMC Clinic 2: 135A Nguyen Van Troi Str., Phu Nhuan District, HCMC

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people matter

How Executive Search Saves You Money (Part 2)

By Gary Woollacott Last year, I wrote about how executive search saves money by cutting out time and mistakes from recruitment. I’m going to pick up that theme since so many people have been complaining they can’t find good employees and asking if we can help.

If you’re going to try to do it the low-cost way, you probably need read no further.

But if you’re interested in a bespoke service to locate and recruit the best talent, then we can help. The markets in which we operate seem to be very price-conscious, so offering a more expensive, yet competitive service is always a challenge. Let me give you a simple illustration of our business. We’ll use shopping for a suit as an example.

Imagine a customer goes to a street market and tells the vendors he is interested in buying a suit. He doesn’t want to pay a deposit, but he is happy to give his measurements and general requirements to all the stallholders who promise to contact him if they have a suit he might like.

Perhaps one of them has a great suit and sends it over for the customer to try on. But it doesn’t quite fit, so he sends it back. How many times do

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you think this will happen before the vendors give up trying to please the customer?

Probably not many. They will pay more attention to the next customer whose needs are easier to fill.

Now imagine using a tailor for the same service. You walk in and he takes your measurements. You pay a deposit and go back for a fitting a few days later. If necessary, the suit is adjusted to fit, perhaps even for a second fitting. Then, a few days after you have settled the bill, the suit is delivered, ready to be worn on that important occasion.

There's no need to guess which service we offer. There's an expression about buying cheap and paying twice: Even if it fits now, that cheap suit might fall apart after six months. Why waste time and money? Do it right the first time.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

FURNITURE

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available.

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

INSURANCE Blue Cross Vietnam 8th Flr. River View Tower, Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3821 9908 www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years' experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Our reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means we are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance please contact us for a free quote.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

REAL ESTATE

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time.

Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

HousingInteractive www.housinginteractive.com Offering an easy-to-use, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website empowers users

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700

www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism.

Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@ opusasia.net.

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RELOCATION AGENTS

Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords. com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/ cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

STATIONERY

Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women: notebooks for a classic vagabond look. Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made by local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Rimowa Level 2 OperaView Tower, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3832 6941 hotline@rimowavietnam.com The German luggage maker is popular with a who’s who of the celebrity world.

Their range of cases come in varying sizes and are made from high-tech materials to provide exceptional durability while remaining very light weight.

Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519

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femme fashion

www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

The Colour Black

By Christina Yu Black may be the antichrist of colour, but it is a fashion essential that is oblivious to trends, at least winter trends.

In scientific terms, it goes something like this: It absorbs all light, therefore emitting no colour, which just about says it all for me. How many times have I heard customers say, “So orange is the hot new colour, I love the orange but I will buy the black.” And they are partly right, black never goes out of fashion.

Wearing black is more about style and cut. If you are thinking black is not fashionforward, you are right. Let’s look at who wears black: 1. judges, 2. priests, 3. public school teachers (for my American friends, read: private schools, a la Robin Williams in Good Will Hunting), 4. bikers, who seem to have only one very smelly outfit for protection in case they fall off their bikes, 5. Greek widows, 6. Burkha wearers (too hot for me to touch), 7. Bobby Chinn, but only the Giordano T-shirts, and 8. some sheep.

The great thing about black is you can wear it with pale

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skin (goths and punks), or olive skin (Sophia Loren), and it is very useful on certain occasions. For example: flying and travelling, because it shows fewer creases; getting into nightclubs (ever tried getting into a night club wearing canary yellow?); and cocktail parties. Of course, black also is thinning, which is never a bad thing. A few other benefits: it can be worn while eating spaghetti; it makes you look older (beneficial for the first half of your life); and it goes well with almost any colour.

During the spring-summer 2013 fashion season, the swinging ’60s influences can be seen in almost every catwalk collection, and blackand-white seems to be one of the hottest colour combos.

So pair your black with white this summer for the ultra MOD look.

Christina Yu is the creative director and founder of Ipa-Nima, an award-winning accessories brand. Email your questions to Christina@ ipa-nima.com or visit Ipa-nima. com.

READY TO WEAR unisex

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period

Fashion shoot: In Bloom, page 46

By Thai Pham

building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women.

Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories. Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available.

Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing. D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1

Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual. The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women

Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-towork attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist. Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-a-porter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodiabased designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine,

styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to highrange prices are perfect for twenty- and thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1

One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with Englishspeaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

asialife HCMC 73

Lan Kwai Fong

La Fenetre Soleil

Photos by Calum Campbell and Joan Manalang.

74 asialife HCMC

Barcode

Music Nights at Geisha Cafe

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radar Bring Conversations to Life

Blankonblank.com If you ever want to listen to comedian Ricky Gervais profess his love for atheism, or tennis player Andre Agassi talk about his mullet, Blank on Blank’s archives can enlighten you. This multimedia non-profit offers a riveting library of forgotten and never-before-heard interviews with influential icons, from fashion guru Tim Gunn to music legend Iggy Pop. Raw interviews from old recordings and cassette tapes are contributed by journalists and edited into multi-platform audio clips for intelligent listening. The interviews, covering famous authors, celebrities and TV personalities, are addictive and easy to browse.

Follow Us on Twaggies

Twaggies.com Back in the day, the concept of a tweet on Twitter was amusing enough.

Twaggies, illustrated versions of humorous tweets, are just as entertaining, if not more so. The site’s zany moniker comes from the concept of a twag, or tag on Twitter. As a comic blog and cartoonists’ dream, Twaggies is a satisfying daily tickle. More than two dozen artists from the site turn pithy tweets into cleverly realised cartoons, which feed on puns and snark in the odd Twittersphere. Visitors also can take a peek at the graphic T-shirts featuring droll twag designs at the online store.

Better Than Jeopardy

Mentalfloss.com When your Facebook Timeline begins to bore you, try scrolling through Mental Floss’s Knowledge Feed. Packed with trivia, Mental Floss is a fresh diversion that will educate you on silly things like why school buses are yellow and which 25 words you wouldn’t guess are trademarked. The site’s Amazing Fact Generator, which randomises facts with every click, is also fulfilling. There are loads of questions, lists and quizzes available, so it never gets old. And unlike most trivia sites out there, Mental Floss does such a thorough job of illuminating facts that you’ll want to remember them.

78 asialife HCMC

soundfix album review

José James

No Beginning No End Hybridity is a privilege of contemporary music. In terms of record store classifications, it’s not so obvious how José James should be filed. Jazz, R&B or soul? Try all of the above. The artist — the product of an Irish-American mother and a saxophonist father from Panama — crosses genres, packaging varied influences together in a seductive blend.

Although released on Blue Note, a label known for its jazz greats, James’ fourth solo album can’t be defined so narrowly. No Beginning No End opens with a mellow tempo that recalls the neo-soul of D’Angelo’s Voodoo, whereas later tracks like ‘Do You Feel’ evoke classic soul.

Then there’s the jazzy horn and piano flourishes that pepper the album, as well as guest stars like Franco-Moroccan singer Hindi Zahra for further layers of eclecticism in a smooth experiment.

80 asialife HCMC

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Ballaké Sissoko Adam Green & Thao & The Get Down Stay Down At Peace Binki Shapiro We The Common

We The Common is Thao Nguyen’s third album with her band, The Get Down Stay Down. The record’s title has its roots in populist ideals, echoed in the folk-rock temper of the music. Nguyen, a VietnameseAmerican from Virginia, has been bouncing around the music scene for almost a decade, amidst several collaboration projects and relentless touring.

She’s honed a sound that is somewhere between folk crooner Laura Viers and the more spirited tUnEyArDs, who both happen to be her compadres. We The Common finds the singer and her band sounding more mature, with creatively crafted, earthy tunes and thoughtful lyrics. Over pitter-patter instrumentals, Nguyen’s voice ranges from warm and confessional to a rebellious staccato. The cherry on top is ‘Kindness Be Conceived’, which features indie free spirit Joanna Newsom for an acoustic Americana duet.

In the course of Mali’s current events, the title of Ballaké Sissoko’s new album comes across as both incongruous and hopeful. As the conflict between armed extremists and the French-supported forces continues, the Malian artist has released At Peace. The album is the second collaboration between Sissoko, a master of the 21-string harp known as a kora, and French cellist Vincent Segal.

Produced by Segal, the record places Sissoko’s performance at the forefront, joined occasionally by the cello, guitars and the balafon. ‘N’tomikorobougou’ is an improvised exchange between Sissoko and 12string guitarist Aboubacar Diabaté, recorded against the background of chirping cicadas in Mali’s capital, Bamako. With instrumental melodies that soothe and soar, Sissoko offers a more harmonious vision for his troubled country.

Adam Green & Binki Shapiro There’s a playfulness to boy-girl duets that can be very attractive.

Adam Green knows this well, as the singer-songwriter who made up one half of Moldy Peaches. On this eponymous debut, Adam Green and Binki Shapiro team up for a collection of 1960s-inspired ballads. Once Beck’s muse, Shapiro also sang in Brazilian-rock group Little Joy. The pairing seems a natural collaboration, as Green’s ribald baritone provides balance to Shapiro’s honeyed tones, with both vocals matched by dreamy inflections. ‘Just To Make Me Feel Good’, bred from the duo’s simultaneous break-ups, recalls the bittersweet kindness of exes. ‘Don’t Ask For More’ best highlights Shapiro’s smoky, sweet drawl when she sings ‘Put your claws away / I think I’ve had enough today’. But we’re left wanting more of the charming twosome.

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Clean Face Mask Sheet

By Ruben Luong Let’s face it — skincare in the city is tough. Even for skincare skeptics, the harms of air pollution, sun exposure and a potentially imbalanced diet can be grueling. THEFACESHOP’s Clean Face Sebum Control Soothing Mask Sheet is an effective, ready-to-use facial mask that not only clarifies skin temporarily, but fortifies it against future breakouts.

Infused with a dynamic potpourri of tea tree leaf, green tea, grapefruit and Arctium Majus root extract, the mask sheet is a potent cosmetic shield. Tea tree leaf, known for its antiseptic qualities, purifies unwanted skin blemishes while green tea’s calming herbal properties soothes inflamed or irritated spots. The nourishing essence of grapefruit cleanses, hydrates and lifts complexion, and the plant-derived Arctium Majus root extract protects pores by regulating the production of sebum, a notorious culprit of acne.

Gently apply the mask sheet and leave it to absorb for 15 to 20 minutes. I find it most effective before going to bed, after cleansing and applying a toner.

Although the mask looks unsightly, and is perhaps a little embarrassing, it is instantly reinvigorating. The sheet is light and resilient and the dewy complex of extracts is cooling

candy for the skin. Once fully absorbed, the mask easily peels off and leaves a subtle yet pacifying herbal aroma. A quick rinse always gives me noticeably softer, hydrated skin and a healthier, shine-free complexion that lasts awhile.

For continued and longlasting results, I recommend using at least two packets of the Clean Face mask sheet every month. One packet usually suffices for temporary concerns, and a second packet can be useful for especially long and tiring weeks. Each packet retails for VND 89,000, so two packets a month is enough to be consistent and economical without developing an overindulgent dependency on the product.

THEFACESHOP, a Koreabased haven for high-quality skincare products, offers a wide range of other highly advanced and specialised masks, such as peel-off, wash-off, or Power Treatment Gel masks that specifically treat anti-wrinkle, anti-oxidation, pore-tightening, or skin-firming concerns. But in that often superfluous array of options, and simply to avoid excessive vanity, the Clean Face soothing mask sheet is a stand-out remedy for anyone wishing to combat multiple skincare problems in one go.

asialife HCMC 81

boxoffice

Spiders

Zero Dark Thirty

Oz: The Great & Powerful

Silver Linings Playbook

Following the crash of a derelict Soviet space station into a Manhattan subway tunnel, a new species of spider is discovered in the wreckage. When the venomous spiders mutate to gigantic proportions, an MTA subway employee has to save his family and all of New York City from destruction. The film

by Hungarian director Tibor Takacs is available in 3D.

The highly anticipated film chronicles the decade-long hunt for al-Qaeda terrorist leader Osama bin Laden after the September 2001 attacks. It ends with his death at the hands of the Navy SEAL Team 6 in May 2011. The movie highlights the role of women, both through the dramatised role of a CIA officer and through the directing of Kathryn Bigelow, who became the first woman to win an Academy for Best Director for The Hurt Locker. Her latest war flick stirred controversy before it hit theatres by showcasing the use of waterboarding in the war on terror.

A stage magician with questionable ethics is hurled into a fantasy world, where he must use his wits to stay ahead of three enchantresses who have plans for him. This latest spin on the L Frank Baum novel takes place before the events depicted in the 1939 version that made Judy Garland a household name. Sam Raimi directs James Franco as Oz and Michelle Williams as Glinda the Good Witch, as well as Mila Kunis and Zach Braff.

After a stint in a mental institution, former teacher Pat Solitano moves back in with his parents and tries to reconcile with his ex-wife. Things get more challenging when Pat meets Tiffany, a mysterious girl with problems of her own. Bradley Cooper stars opposite Jennifer Lawrence, with Robert De Niro, Chris Tucker and Julia Stiles. It already was nominated for eight Academies and four Golden Globes, at both of which Lawrence won Best Actress on her way to becoming a Hollywood staple.

Opening Dates CINEMAS M: Megastar Cinema www.megastar.vn

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Spiders (1 March) Zero Dark Thirty (1 March) Oz: The Great & Powerful (8 March) Silver Linings Playbook (15 March)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf Vampires in the Lemon Grove Karen Russell Alfred A Knopf

Young girls transforming into silkworms, an elderly vampire afraid of losing his wife, and former US presidents reincarnated as horses populate Karen Russell’s fantastical tales.

Vampires in the Lemon Grove, Russell’s second collection of short stories, is no less kooky than her previous publications.

Yet in Russell’s hands, seemingly absurd subject matter remains grounded in masterful storytelling. Her matter-offact narrative makes it easier for readers to transcend reality and fall softly into the storylines. The characters in Russell’s richly-imagined stories may seem bizarre, but they still shed light on what are ultimately universal human issues.

Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion Elizabeth L Cline Portfolio/Penguin

Why have only one when you can have two for the same price? Somewhere along the line we seemed to have forgotten that it’s quality over quantity. When it comes to shopping for clothes, there are a plethora of low-cost stores such as Forever 21 and H&M that make trend-chasing easy.

After noticing that her wardrobe was bursting at the seams with unworn clothes, journalist Elizabeth L Cline became a self-described “reformed fast-fashion junkie”. In this book, Cline looks at the growth of budget fashion, its impact on the clothing industry and the environment, and how we can try to change our over-buying ways.

The Dinner Herman Koch Hogarth

As the title suggests, The Dinner takes place over one evening meal. Dutch author Herman Koch’s popular novel — recently translated into English — focuses on two brothers and their wives, and the mix of family responsibility and enmity that binds them together. At the request of Serge, a candidate for prime minister of the Netherlands, the foursome gathers at a ritzy restaurant to deal with a family scandal. Over several courses, the skeleton in the closet is revealed and the dinner continues to unravel. With his poison pen, Koch creates unsympathetic characters whose questionable approach to morality forms the story’s crux.

Kind of Kin Rilla Askew Ecco

With immigration control a hot topic in the United States, Rilla Askew uses a fictional story to explore the human impact of policy crackdowns. Kind of Kin takes place in Oklahoma, in the aftermath of a new law that makes a felony out of harbouring illegal immigrants. When a family patriarch is arrested for hiding a group of undocumented migrant workers, the Browns become embroiled in a struggle between legality and conscience. At the centre is Sweet, who tries to hold the family together while the town around her also tries to protect its own.

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This month, Dana Filek-Gibson promotes Frappucinos with a side of cultural exchange.

Life as an expat is an exercise in contradictions. On the one hand, I am excused every time I do something culturally out of place, like get a suntan or fold rice paper like it's a tortilla. On the other hand, I could live to be a hundred in this city and still someone would ask me whether I know how to use chopsticks. I get the hang of some things, and not others.

There are undoubtedly things we expats do (queue, cover our mouths when we cough, stop at traffic lights) that buck the trend of local culture. The upside to our status as outsiders is that we are able to pick and choose what suits us best (tiny chairs, food on the street, exposing one's belly after a meal) and which practices we'd rather avoid (public urination, duck fetus, compulsive nosepicking).

For many among us, Starbucks was one of the things we'd elected to forget when 84 asialife HCMC

moving to Vietnam. It follows, then, that quite a few expats were displeased to learn of its arrival in their new home. I took the announcement as an affront to the authenticity of this faraway Southeast Asian land. After all, how exotic can a place really be when there are Frappucinos available?

I was not the only one who selectively forgot that I once survived on KIND bars and chai tea lattes. “How dare they?” my friends complained.

“What will this do to the local coffee industry? They're ruining Vietnam. What's next: non-smoking sections in restaurants?” It is worth noting that this conversation probably occurred at a Highlands or a Gloria Jean's or a heavily air-conditioned Coffee Bean.

Even now, everyone seems to have an opinion on the matter. But if your reaction falls anywhere on the spectrum from mild irritation to utter

disgust, it is worth considering how much less concerned the average locals are about having a Starbucks in their country. While many expats — myself included — were busy expressing our disappointment, offense, and/or outrage, most Vietnamese were busy not caring. I broached the topic of Starbucks with my Vietnamese friends, and this is the most impassioned response I have received: “Who?” Of course, there are valid discussions to be had about Starbucks' place in Vietnam, but perhaps we've gone about this the wrong way. After all, would any among us be this up-in-arms if someone put a Pho 24 in our neighbourhood back home? I wouldn't. I would be lining up there every day.

Perhaps Starbucks is not the evil we originally perceived, but just another opportunity for cultural exchange. After all, we rave about banh mi and walk

around in backpacker pants like we invented them, why not invite locals to experience a seven-syllable drink order and four hours of acoustic John Mayer songs? No one is saying it's better or worse than a streetside cafe, but don't we all have the right to pick and choose?

So in the interest of peacebuilding and cultural exchange, I encourage you to both welcome and protest the arrival of Starbucks in Vietnam. Let us all join hands and celebrate the rich history of local coffee culture by enjoying a Vietnamese ca phe sua da on the front steps outside of our first local Starbucks. And, later, when sweat is clinging to our brows and the smell of cigarettes and motorbike exhaust has lightened our mood, we can all walk hand-in-hand into one of the most famous coffee shops on earth and buy ourselves a Frappucino and the right to sit in the air-conditioning.

This Country Life Walter Pearson peruses the rich variety of people inhabiting his countryside town.

It was a remarkable feat really, given that Chon Thanh is more than 30 kilometres away and he only had the use of one leg.

And one hand. And he was on a bicycle. But he had to get his wife to the hospital.

Velvet’s father was wounded while in the Army of the Republic of Vietnam. He had lost the use of one hand and one leg. He had five daughters and a son. In the mid-1980s, his wife fell quite ill, requiring an emergency dash to hospital. But in those days up in the bush, transport was hard to find. The only motorbikes were a few Honda Cubs and old Vespas. There were no minivans and cars for hire like today.

So he set off with his sick wife on his bicycle. He had no choice.

Sister Four is an unhappy woman. That’s not surprising.

She was badly shot up by an American helicopter. Her torso is laced with ugly scars, her right eye droops. She is in pain most of the time. She proudly shows off her Army discharge certificate and the house has plenty of photos of her in uniform. She never married

after the war and now lives in a house with her younger brother where she undermines his marriage with constant complaints about his wife. Fortunately, she is now spending a lot of time at his other farm at Loc Ninh, 35 kilometres away.

Brother Four grew up here in Binh Long when it was known as Loc Ninh. He was drafted into the Southern Army. At 22, he was defending the town during the 1972 Spring-Summer Offensive. That was when the Liberation Forces first used tanks down here in the south. The fighting was intense. US planes bombed the tanks and flattened the centre of the little town.

Only the schoolhouse remained standing. Brother Four escaped the battle and continued to fight as the southern troops withdrew and the Revolutionary Forces liberated the province, then known as Phuoc Long. He was at Long Khanh as the regime entered its last days. There he surrendered.

Most of Brother Four’s family now lives in California. I asked why he stayed here. He told me

life was too hard in the United States, he can make more money and live more comfortably here.

My sister-in-law Sister Eight had a son. In 2005, he was eight years old and was playing in the rubber plantation over the other side of the ridge. He and a friend found an old handgrenade. As they were tossing it to each other, it exploded, killing her son outright. Sister Eight went into a depression for a year.

Chicken Man — as we used to call him, because he supplied free-range chickens for us to kill and eat — is now known as okra man. We became friends because he wanted to practice English, after having worked with the Americans at the huge Long Binh Logistics Base outside Bien Hoa. After the war, he had four children. Then his wife died. Although many urged him to re-marry he refused, preferring to raise all four children by himself. When they all had left home, he finally did get remarried to a young woman.

My mother-in-law, Ba Ngoai, came to this area in 1957 when

all the villages around had X’Tieng names. She and her husband eventually moved to Loc Ninh. They had seven children. Her husband was in the Southern Army. Mother became pregnant and came here to Binh Long (then known as An Loc) to have her eighth child. But the 1972 Spring-Summer Offensive that would destroy the town and kill 3,000 people started while she was giving birth. She had the child and then walked the 35 kilometres through the fighting back to Loc Ninh to find her family. When she got there, she discovered her husband had disappeared in battle. Her children were scattered among a number of families, but she gathered the clan back together and returned to An Loc. The other evening, I was riding back from tennis and passed Velvet’s father with his wife going to church as they do every day. Now he rides a Honda Wave with her — much easier than the bicycle.

It truly is the people that make Vietnam so interesting a place. asialife HCMC 85

pub quiz Asia

Deep

1. The world’s largest landlocked country is in Central Asia.

Name it.

2. What is the least populous member of The South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation?

3. Which East Asian country is divided into 47 prefectures?

4. The Bosphorus separates Europe from Asia in which country?

5. Which is the only country to border both the Caspian Sea and the Persian Gulf?

21. Which band is best known for their 1995 hit single ‘Breakfast at Tiffany's’?

22. What is the deepest lake in the world?

23. Ian Gillan is best known as the lead singer and lyricist for which rock band?

24. The chess computer, Deep Thought, was named after a computer in which novel?

25. Former Federal Bureau of Investigation associate director Mark Felt is better remembered by what pseudonym?

Guess the Celebrity 26)

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27)

Underground 11. Which British band was ‘Going Underground’ in 1980?

12. What did the 19th-century US Underground Railroad move?

13. Much of Singapore’s public transport system is underground. By what three letter acronym is it known?

14. Which early eco-warriors lived partly underground on Wimbledon Common?

15. Who became the manager of the Velvet Underground in 1965?

Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Thuùy Lieãu Söûa baûn in: Löu Thuûy Trình baøy: Coâng ty CP TT QC ASIALIFE MEDIA Bìa: Coâng ty CP TT QC ASIALIFE MEDIA

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Heights

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30) 1) Kazakhstan 2) The Maldives 3) Japan 4) Turkey 5) Iran 6) Lizard 7) Kentucky 8) Eiffel 65 9) New South Wales 10) Norwegian 11) The Jam 12) Slaves 13) MRT 14) The Wombles 15) Andy Warhol 16) Venezuela 17) Syria 18) Alaska 19) Cuban 20) Dubai 21) Deep Blue Something 22) Lake Baikal 23) Deep Purple 24) The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy 25) Deep Throat 26) Steve Carell 27) Hugh Laurie 28) Taylor Swift 29) Natalie Portman 30) Gillian Anderson

16. Angel Falls, the world’s highest waterfall, is in which country?

17. The Golan Heights is an occupied part of which country?

18. Mount McKinley is the highest mountain in North America.

In what state or territory is it?

19. Javier Sotomayor has held the men’s high jump world record for 20 years. What nationality is he?

20. Burj Khalifa is currently the tallest man-made structure in the world. Where is it?

Pub Quiz Answers

Blue 6. What type of animal is the blue-tongued skink?

7. Which American state is known as the Bluegrass State?

8. Which Italian, but Frenchsounding, group had a worldwide hit with ‘Blue (Da Ba Dee)’?

9. In which state are Australia’s Blue Mountains?

10. What was the specific breed of Monty Python’s Blue Parrot?

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