Life on Lantau Apr/May 2023

16 PERSONA

Meet Marc Morris, the new principal at Discovery Bay International School

22 DISPATCH

Gen up on Lantau’s piratical past – the island’s biggest industry to date

26 TRAIL WALKER

Hike from Nam Shan to Tung Chung through undisturbed Wong Lung Hang Valley

36 DESTINATION

Get ready for bun scrambling and floating kids at Cheung Chau Bun Festival

Happenings & Events

STUFF TO KNOW IN APRIL!

CONTACT US

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PHILIP JAY

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RACHEL AINSLEY Managing editor rachel@baymedia.com.hk

RAPHAEL BLET Assistant editor raphael@baymedia.com.hk

BEATRIX MALAN Digital manager beatrix@baymedia.com.hk

SARIN ALE Art director sarin@baymedia.com.hk

CONTRIBUTORS

RAY AU, IMOGEN CLYDE, ELIZABETH KERR, JASON PAGLIARI

PHOTOGRAPHY

DANIELLE BOOYSE PHOTOGRAPHY www.daniellebooysephotography.myportfolio.com

BEATRIX MALAN www.atscollective.com

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DISCLAIMER

The views expressed in Life on Lantau are not necessarily those of the publisher, editor or contributors. The publisher and editor cannot be held responsible for differences of opinion or statements published in good faith. The publisher, contributors, their employees and partners are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors or omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication and expressly disclaim all and any liability for any such action of any person. The mention of specific companies or products in articles or advertisements does not imply that they are endorsed or recommended by this magazine or its publisher in preference to others of a similar nature which are not mentioned or advertised. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without permission.

LOCKING UP PENNY’S BAY COMMUNITY ISOLATION FACILITY

Penny’s Bay Community Isolation Facility (PBCIF), formerly Penny’s Bay Quarantine Centre (PBQC), shut its doors on March 1, following Hong Kong’s policy switch from ‘zero COVID’ to ‘living with COVID’. During the closing ceremony, members of the Civil Aid Service (CAS), the facility’s primary manager, held placards reading ‘Mission Accomplished,’ as their band played Auld Lang Syne . When CAS personnel closed the main gate, Under Secretary for Security Michael Cheuk put a ‘lock’ on it, symbolising the completion of the PBCIF’s anti-epidemic mission and a return to normalcy.

The PBQC opened in July 2020 providing facilities for close contacts to undergo compulsory quarantine. It was converted into the PBCIF in February 2022 to receive low-risk patients as the epidemic began to recede. All told, the quarantine/ isolation facilities at Penny’s Bay were in operation for 31 months with the number of units increasing from 1,500 to nearly 10,000, and ultimately covering an area of 1 million square metres.

Some 270,000 people were detained at Penny’s Bay over those 31 months. These included close contacts, arrivals from high-risk countries and locally infected patients with mild symptoms, as well as travellers testing positive for COVID upon arrival in Hong Kong. In April 2021 alone, more than a thousand Tung Chung residents, living in the Caribbean Coast, were admitted after a mutated coronavirus variant was discovered in their housing block.

Reports of poor living conditions at Penny’s Bay have been rife in the media – questionable hygiene, unappetising food, CCTV surveillance, harsh fluorescent lighting, 24-hour confinement with no outdoor access, the list goes on. But, fittingly, the focus at the closing ceremony was on the people on the ground, all those who had worked so hard and made so many sacrifices to do their jobs and keep the facility up and running.

Looking to the future, what the Penny’s Bay site will be used for remains uncertain, the units may be dismantled or used for temporary housing. [PHOTO BY Geeta Ale.]

THE NEARLY 10,000 UNITS COVER AN AREA OF 1 MILLION SQUARE METRES

ALL THINGS ITALIAN IN PUI O

With Bella Ciao Lantau, the Italian restaurant, bar and grocery store, which soft-opened on February 21 in Lo Wai Village, Pui O, F&B veteran Matteo Cecchi has set out to provide an allnew food experience with seasonality at its core. The menu will update regularly, providing diners with a taste of fresh produce shipped from the four corners of Italy. All-time classics, such as pasta and pizza, are a speciality, with many dishes served in new and creative ways. As one might expect of an Italian restaurant, choices of drinks are plentiful – Prosecco-based Aperol Spritz and mini-barrel-aged Negroni are bestsellers. The grocery store, meanwhile, is stocked with a tempting range of regional delicacies, including fresh, creamy burrata.

Bella Ciao Lantau is open Tuesday to Friday from 2pm to 10pm, and for breakfast, lunch and dinner at the weekend. To find out more and make a booking, visit www.bellaciao-lantau.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Bella Ciao Lantau.]

THE ENCHANTED SOUTH LANTAU COLLECTION

Former Associated Press photojournalist turned digital artist Anat Givon is exhibiting her latest works at Pause Café in Mui Wo throughout April and May. From surrealist photographic collages depicting buffalos walking on tree branches to more naturalistic photos of Lantau villages and seascapes, the Enchanted South Lantau Collection is a true homage to the island, capturing both its quirkiness and beauty.

“The Hong Kong exhibitions that I have participated in were usually focused on the city’s urban identity. Living in South Lantau for four years, I wanted to pay tribute to this greener, rural part of Hong Kong where there is so much to capture. With its white walls, large windows and relaxed atmosphere, Pause Café is a great place to have this exhibition,” says Anat. Limited edition prints from the Enchanted South Lantau Collection are available for purchase. To find out more, email anat.givon@gmail.com or visit www.anatgivon.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Anat Givon.]

ON THE WATERFRONT IN TUNG CHUNG

Next time you find yourself on Tung Chung East Promenade make a beeline for Tung Chung Community Liaison Centre, where various themed exhibitions encourage visitors to know more about development projects and conservation works being undertaken by the Sustainable Lantau Office. Child-friendly, interactive exhibits focused on Lantau’s culture, history, flora and fauna are also on offer, plus a meeting room where islanders can hold community-driven activities and events free of charge. The offering has expanded recently with the addition of an adjacent extension providing more space for conservation- and sustainability-themed exhibitions and activities.

Lantauers are being encouraged to make good use of the surrounding area, thanks to the addition of some neat outdoor facilities, including a mini skatepark, a small gym, children’s play areas, plenty of seating and grass to walk on. The space is open from 8am to 8pm. Find out more at www.lantau.gov.hk. [PHOTO BY Sarin Ale.]

ENJOY CLASSIC ITALIAN DISHES PREPARED IN NEW WAYS

ANAT GIVON AT PAUSE CAFÉ

CHILDREN’S PLAY AREAS

Well-established, Hong Kong-wide meat, seafood and produce provider Steak King has businesses in Tung Chung and Mui Wo, meaning it can access remote parts of Lantau, including Ma Wan, with ease. Orders are delivered door-to-door at optimal temperatures in Steak King’s fleet of six refrigerated trucks. Working directly with overseas farms to source the freshest produce weekly from Australia, Canada and the US, Steak King connects islanders with quality produce at competitive prices. Ready-made-meals are also on offer, as is a catering service for events of all sizes and budgets.

This month Steak King is offering Life on Lantau readers HK$150 off any spend of HK$1,500 or above. Steak King delivers to South Lantau on Tuesdays and Fridays, and to Discovery Bay on Fridays; delivery is free for orders over HK$1,500. To claim your discount, turn to page 9. To order online, visit www.steak-king.com.

STEAK KING HOME DELIVERY LANTAU POTTERY STUDIO

Located in the heart of Mui Wo, Lantau Pottery Studio, formerly Little Egret Studio, is a unique space for potters to get together and enjoy the ceramicmaking process. Founder Fatima Morrissey showcases locally made ceramics and art, and hosts regular pottery lessons for adults and children. While the children’s pottery classes are project-based, all students have the chance to learn hand building and wheel throwing techniques. There is also the option to book the venue for special events and pottery parties.

Fatima is a mother of two and an artist. Her love for pottery started at a very young age and she believes playing with mud is just as much fun for children as it is for adults. Her functional and sculptural pieces draw on an eclectic mix of influences including European and Asian folk art. To find out more and book a class, visit www.lantaupotterystudio.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Lantau Pottery Studio.]

EASTER FUN IN DISCOVERY BAY

There are plenty of Easter-themed activities for families to enjoy across Discovery Bay on the weekend of April 7 to 8. In DB North, there’s an Easter FunLand offering an Easter-themed photo zone, face painting and an Easter bunny meet-and-greet, with popcorn, cotton candy and balloons provided free of charge. Meanwhile, DB Plaza is transforming into an Ohpama Kids Fiesta with exciting games and workshops on offer.

Kids who enrolled early will also be looking forward to the DB Easter Egg Hunt on the Beach, running April 7 to 8. Egg hunters are divided into different age groups (three to four years, five to six years and seven to 10 years) to participate in the respective game sessions at Tai Pak Wan. All entrants receive a Welcome Goodie Bag, including a shovel set, souvenirs and a Certificate of Participation. Kids can redeem the colourful and biodegradable Easter eggs they find to win prizes totalling HK$1 million! To find out more, visit www. dbeasteregghunt.com.

LET STEAK KING FILL YOUR FRIDGE

TAKE A CLASS WITH FATIMA MORRISSEY

ENJOY AN EASTER BUNNY MEET-AND-GREET

Out & About!

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN UP TO!

RUNNING FOR FREEDOM 5 IN 5

Mui Wo resident Jo Lodder completed his second Run for Freedom on March 5 running five trails in five days to support two local charities

1st Steps HK and TAILS Lantau. Jo’s epic ‘5 in 5’ (he is the first person to achieve it) saw him covering over 390km and nearly 20,000m in elevation on the Tinworth, Wilson, Hong Kong, MacLehose and Lantau Trails. Aiming to help disabled people and abused animals find freedom, Jo has already raised over HK$100,000. You can scan the QR code to make a donation. [PHOTOS COURTESY OF Jo Lodder.]

DEBORAH AND FRIENDS AT THE FRINGE

On March 17, Tung Chung-based singer/ songwriter and poet Deborah Mannas performed live at the Fringe Diary, alongside fellow musicians Bhoyet Samonte, Satur Tiamson, Vince Chan and Daphne Villanueva. Themed Deborah and Friends , the show delivered a heady mix of covers and originals.

RACING FOR LOVE IN PUI O

On February 12, The Trail Hub held the ninth edition of its annual Valentine’s Day Race at Treasure Island in Pui O, welcoming around 200 participants. There were two intensity levels – the Easy Love (9km) coastal path and trail route and the Tough Love (15km) route, with everyone competing in pairs. [PHOTOS COURTESY OF The Trail Hub.]

COMMUNITY SNAPS

FAMILIAR FACES FROM ACROSS LANTAU

PHOTOS COURTESY OF Danielle Booyse Photography www.daniellebooysephotography.myportfolio.com

ADRENALINE GTS 22

ALittleofBitTrivia!

EARTH DAY QUIZ

IN THE LEAD-UP TO EARTH DAY ON APRIL 22, WE TEST YOUR ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS STARTING WITH THE 5 RS

PHOTOS COURTESY OF Wikimedia & HKRI

You can check your score at www.arounddb.com>20questions>earth-day-quiz

Full Marcs! WELCOME MR MORRIS

HAVING SWAPPED THE DESERT CLIMATE OF DUBAI FOR THE HUMIDITY OF HONG KONG, DISCOVERY BAY INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL’S NEW PRINCIPAL, MARC MORRIS, IS HAPPY TO BE BACK IN THE SAR. SUSANNAH WOOD REPORTS

Ask Marc Morris, principal at Discovery Bay International School (DBIS, www.dbis.edu.hk), what drew him to education, and the answer is simple: “I wanted to do a better job than had been done to me. Teaching is my passion – it’s all I’ve ever wanted to do from a career perspective.”

Originally from the north west of England, Marc, whose father was a physics teacher, spent his early career teaching history at local authority schools across the UK. A natural leader, he quickly rose through the ranks gaining his first head-teachership at Westlands High School, Congleton in 1996. He continued to work at top-performing schools in the UK until 2011, when the opportunity to move to Hong Kong presented itself.

GLOBAL PERSPECTIVES

Marc’s international adventure began at Sha Tin College, where he spent six years as principal. From there he moved to Singapore to take up the position of Chief Education Officer for Dulwich College, where he was responsible for overseeing the work of nine heads of college in four jurisdictions: Singapore, China, South Korea and Myanmar. “It was interesting work,” he says, “but it wasn’t satisfying in the way that going into a school is. I missed the community, the regularity, the warmth, and I was keen to get back to that.” When the role of principal and CEO of Jumeirah College, Dubai, came up, Marc took the chance to return to a school community environment.

Now Marc is back in Hong Kong, leading what is arguably one of the most community-centric schools in the region. Was that one of the things that attracted him to DBIS and DB? “Absolutely!” he says. “I’d spent some time in Discovery Bay before, at conferences and visiting friends. That gave me a good sense of what it was like, and I felt a connection to the school. A good school is an asset to a community.”

DISCOVERING THE BAY

For Marc and his wife Tanya, a major part of DB’s appeal was its family-friendly environment – perfect for them and their one-year-old daughter Lana. “It’s a nice area for Lana to grow up in,” he says. “You see lots of happy children here. DB has an awful lot going for it – open space, access to greenery, minimal traffic, peace and quiet – and all within close proximity of the city.”

And what are Marc’s first impressions of DBIS? “From the outset, it’s been very obvious that the children at DBIS enjoy their schooling; they’re well cared for and the staff genuinely want to work with them – it’s authentic,” he says. “One of the most interesting and enjoyable parts of the recruitment process was meeting the students and hearing about their experiences. Students at DBIS feel confident to express their views, they’re enthusiastic about

their learning, and these are essential parts of creating a flourishing school.”

Marc’s easy rapport with students complements his hands-on approach to day-to-day school life. “I’d rather join the children in class and read to them than walk around with a clipboard,” he says. “You can learn a lot by listening to what children think about their learning; they’re disarmingly honest.”

EDUCATING THE WHOLE CHILD

One thing that’s abundantly clear from speaking to Marc is how strongly he believes in providing a holistic education in order to nurture well-rounded students who are ready to take on real-world challenges. While academics are important – and Marc’s track record from his previous schools speaks for itself – there’s more to life than grades on

I wanted to do a better job than had been done to me. Teaching is my passion

– Marc Morris

paper and today’s students need to be prepared for a future that is, as yet, unwritten.

“I always say to students: ‘So you're healthy, you're happy, you've got top grades, but how many thousands of other people in the world have got top grades? What else are you going to offer an undergraduate programme or an employer?’” he says. “The important thing is to find something that draws the children in, something they’re passionate about. If that means they’re involved in clubs a few nights a week, that’s fine; it just has to be something they want to do, and it needs to fit in with their learning.

“Children being happy, safe and healthy is the first tier to achieving academic potential. It’s about balance. There’s far too much to do and learn in any single lifetime, and it’s important to get that across to children. Education doesn't finish when you’re 18; it’s about keeping that inquiry mindset because who knows what you’ll want to do when you’re 30 or 40 – don’t ever let anyone tell you it’s too late to start something.”

When it comes down to it, Marc is more interested in adding value to his students than getting more A* grades. “It's about meeting the children where they are and adding value to their potential,” he explains. “My previous school, Jumeirah College, Dubai, is in the top 1% in the world in terms of the value it adds. That means you could have gone to any other school in the world and you statistically would not have done any better than you have done at that school.

“If you ask them, most schools won't tell you what their value added is because it doesn’t make for headline figures. My argument around the extracurricular, the breadth, the holistic is that it incentivises students’ academic work; it provides fulfilment, enjoyment, interest and friendship groups, meaning children are happy to go to school and are more likely to be able to battle through when academics become challenging.”

LEADING BY EXAMPLE

Marc doesn’t just talk the talk when it comes to holistic experiences though – he walks the walk too. A keen musician, he not only plays a number of instruments but also makes them. “One of the things I most cherish about my time in Hong Kong before was when someone left a leaflet on my desk – to this day I don’t know who it was – about ukulele making. I ended up doing a nine-week course then taking some private lessons, and before I knew it, I had a workshop.”

Ever the educator, Marc went on to use his new-found skills to run instrument-making workshops for students as part of ‘Week Without Walls’ experiences.

Marc’s hobbies and interests don’t just stop at music. A highly experienced mountaineer, he has worked as an outdoor centre instructor, a World Challenge expedition leader, a youth centre leader and a climbing coach. DBIS students can likely look forward to more expeditions up and over Tiger’s Head in the coming months!

Speaking of the future, Marc is full of confidence and quick to reassure that taking over the reins part way through the academic year has not presented him with any additional challenges. “I've moved at winter break before,” he says, “and actually, it's very helpful for a new head and the school because the year’s calendar is planned and the exam groups and teachers are all in place. The important thing is that I’ve not brought a template with me. Different schools require different approaches, and it’s important for me to listen to the parents, the students and the teachers and take time to learn about the school’s traditions and culture.

“I’m very happy to have joined DBIS,” Marc concludes with a broad smile. “It’s an exciting new venture for me, and I’m delighted to be here in DB, steering the school and playing my part in the wider community.”

MARC PRIORITISES REGULAR INTERACTION WITH STUDENTS

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

A PICTURESQUE EVENT SPACE PROVIDING SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT, WELLBEING FARM IS WELL WORTH A LOOK.

RAPHAEL BLET REPORTS FROM MUI WO

PHOTOS COURTESY OF Wellbeing Farm

Atwo-minute walk from Silvermine Bay beach, Wellbeing Farm was founded in 2020 by local boy Jacky Wan, who can trace his Mui Wo ancestry back 30 generations, and his Canadian-born wife Fatima Morrissey. A working farm, providing allotment rentals, the 15,000 square-foot property is first and foremost a social venue, designed to host up to 200 people at one time.

“This was like a jungle when we took over,” opens Jacky, looking out over the now immaculate event space. “One of my uncles gave us the opportunity to take care of the farm and we spent a year renovating. We realised Mui Wo needed an outdoor venue for kids and families to hang out.”

Two years on, Jacky and Fatima are able to facilitate all kinds of outdoor events – parties, family picnics and barbeques, school trips, corporate functions, team building exercises and community get-togethers – and they regularly have two or more gatherings going on at the same time.

While COVID was synonymous with struggle for many businesses, including Jacky’s real estate company Master Key, this wasn’t the case for Wellbeing Farm. “The pandemic was a real wake-up call for people to rediscover Hong Kong. They were visiting the outlying islands, hiking and getting out into nature because they couldn’t travel,” Fatima says. “They really liked the privacy and space they found here.

“Around 80% of the people who come to Wellbeing Farm are from the city,” adds Fatima, who also runs the Lantau Pottery Studio next door.

Visitors and islanders alike are drawn to the gardening opportunities on offer. For HK$500 per month, you can rent a 120 square-foot allotment and grow your own fruit, vegetables or flowers, with watering taken care of once a day by Jacky’s mother.

“In Hong Kong, the growing season is the whole year; you just have to know which crops to grow when,” Fatima says with a smile.

“My husband is the quintessential village boy,” she adds. “As a child, he was playing outdoors, fishing, catching frogs… he was really into nature. He always wanted to promote eco-tourism and now he is realising his dream.”

“I’m planning to organise more parent-child activities, team building activities and local heritage tours. Our aim is to become a base for people to gather and explore the surrounding area,” Jacky affirms.

Jacky and Fatima hope to pass on their love of nature to the next generation. “We plan to work with more schools,” says Jacky. “In March, we hosted a sports day for Lick Hang Kindergarten. There were 180 people. It was very successful; they brought their own picnic and had a fun time.”

With COVID restrictions now lifted, the couple are looking forward to hosting more parties and events. “People who book the venue will be able to add a sports and/ or crafts activity as an extra. My wife can hold pottery classes and I can do the sports,” says Jacky, a former PE teacher.

One of the biggest events the couple has hosted to date was a child’s birthday party with 150 guests. “There was face painting and a barbecue, and we have special fairy lights so the fun can continue after it gets dark,” says Fatima. “Our venue is great for parents because it’s a completely closed environment; they don’t need to worry about their kids.”

Partnering with nearby Pause Café, butcher Loi Chan and Village Bakery, Wellbeing Farm can help you take care of the F&B. But if you prefer to bring your own food, all the necessaries – including a barbecue – are provided.

Wellbeing Farm also organises events for the local community to get to know each other. “I’ve been doing a very niche local networking and socialising event called Lantau Ladies After Hours. It’s targeting local professional women and new people who have moved to Lantau. It gives them a chance to meet,” says Fatima.

“We’ve got the Easter programme coming up, and we’re always around – we don’t leave the island much. Come join us!” Jacky concludes with a grin.

For more on Wellbeing Farm, WhatsApp 9509 2203 or visit www.wellbeingfarm.com.hk.

ISLAND OF THIEVES

PIRACY HAS BEEN BIG ON LANTAU SINCE THE MING DYNASTY AND THE SWASHBUCKLING ONLY REALLY WOUND DOWN IN THE EARLY 1900S. RAY AU REPORTS

ILLUSTRATION BY Sarin Ale

Looking back at the history of piracy in Lantau, it’s clear that the industry – the island’s biggest to date – was driven both by location and economic necessity. The early Chinese pirates were fishermen, who started preying on the ships and seaside settlements of southern China as a sideline to help makes ends meet. They soon discovered that Lantau, with its hidden coves and well protected harbours, was the perfect pirates’ hideout.

As early as the 12th century, imperial troops were stationed on Lantau with the mission to stamp out piracy. But this story really begins in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), when

a series of ‘sea bans’ were introduced forbidding Chinese fishermen and merchants from trading with foreigners. This left coastal communities, like those in Lantau, with very little to live on. Islanders had two choices – to move with their families inland or take to the high seas to pillage, plunder and loot.

KOXINGA AND THE GREAT CLEARANCE

The sea ban resulted in a huge surge in piracy all along the southern Chinese coast. By the early 1600s, Fujian pirate Zheng Zhilong had amassed the most powerful fleet in the area, and he made Lantau one of his hideaways. In the last days of the Ming dynasty, Zheng Zhilong saw an opportunity (for wealth and power) and offered his services to the troubled emperor. With the coming of the Qing dynasty (1644-1912), however, he attempted to change sides and was unceremoniously executed.

Zheng Zhilong’s son Zheng Chen Ggong (better known as Koxinga) grew up a Ming loyalist, and continued in the family business. He gave the Qing Navy hell for some 16 years, and by 1659 he had built up sufficient power to sail over 100,000 troops up the Yangtze River to attack Nanjing. There, however, he suffered a disastrous defeat.

Forced back to home base, Koxinga found himself in dangerous waters. In 1661, when the emperor ordered a Great Clearance, which again forced coastal populations inland, his response was to retreat to Taiwan, taking it from the Dutch after a nine-month siege.

Koxinga died of malaria in 1662, and the sea ban was finally lifted in 1684. But local fishermen were back where they started in 1757, when the Qing introduced the Canton System, restricting all foreign trade to Guangzhou.

THE PIRATE CONFEDERATION

Piracy continued in a small way in subsequent years, only to come back with a bang in 1778 with the Tay Son Rebellion. Seeing the opportunity to strike back at the Qing rulers, the southern Chinese pirates joined forces with Vietnam’s ascendant Tay Son dynasty, fighting alongside them, as their privateers in what came to be known as the Great Pirate Upheaval. In exchange for their support, the pirates were given better-armed junks and legitimate military titles. Based in the then-Vietnamese port of Jiangping, they began to expand under new and ambitious leaders.

When the Tay Son dynasty fell in 1801, the southern Chinese pirates returned to their home ports determined to build on their success. In 1805, they formed a confederation headquartered at Tung Chung comprising the Red, Black, White, Green, Blue and Yellow Flag fleets.

The unspoken leader of the confederation was Cheng I, ruler of the mighty Red Flag Fleet, whose great-greatgrandfather, Cheng Chien, had served under Koxinga.

CHEUNG PO TSAI AND CHENG I SAO

Just two years later, when Cheng I died, his wife, Cheng I Sao, quickly took charge and almost as quickly married her stepson Cheung Po Tsai. While Cheng I Sao used her powers of negotiation to keep the confederation together, Cheung Po Tsai became captain of the Red Flag Fleet.

Like Koxinga, Cheung Po Tsai was a Ming loyalist, who dreamt of overthrowing the Qing rulers. He was also hugely charismatic – the model for the Chinese pirate Sao Feng played by Chow Yun-fat in Pirates of the Caribbean: At World’s End.

Led by Cheung Po Tsai and Cheng I Sao, the confederation grew from 800 junks in 1805 to nearly 2,000 by 1809. As the pirates grew more powerful, they began to prey not just on coastal vessels but on ocean-going Malaysian junks and Portuguese merchant ships. At this time, they also found a new way of making money, setting up a protection racket over the salt trade. When the authorities responded with a coastal embargo that meant salt had to be transported by land, Cheung Po Tsai hit back hard, fighting the local militia not only at sea but also on land.

By early 1809, Cheung Po Tsai had become so powerful he decided to attack Whampoa, and demand a ransom from the Governor General. Unfortunately for him, however, the Governor General begged help from the West, and the pirates were pushed back to Lantau by a Portuguese armed cruiser.

With the pirates besieged at Tung Chung, a joint Portuguese and Qing navy closed in. Cheng I Sao and Cheung Po Tsai, with the support of the confederacy, were able to lead a fleet of 17,318 pirates and 226 junks in the resulting nine-day Battle of Lantau. But the confederates were no match for the Portuguese. By late 1810 after a squall of such defeats, Cheung Po Tsai, alongside many others in the confederacy, decided to bite the bullet and surrender.

As luck would have it, things turned out well for Cheung Po Tsai, who was allowed to keep his ships on condition that he join the anti-piracy campaign. He and Cheng I Sao lived happily in Canton under the Governor General’s protection before moving to Fujian. On becoming a colonel, Cheung Po Tsai took charge of the Penghu Regiment and became responsible for defending the coastline he had once terrorised.

THE BATTLE OF TY-HO BAY

Piracy didn’t die with Cheung Po Tsai’s betrayal, however. Hong Kong’s colonial history is full of pirate attacks right up to the early 1900s. The big-name buccaneers of the period, headquartered to the west and east of Hong Kong, were Shap Ng Tsai and Chui A-poo, and again, much of the action centred on Lantau.

The Battle of Ty-ho Bay in 1855 saw a 36-strong pirate fleet come up against warships from the combined British and US navy, intent on retrieving captured merchant vessels. The action off Tai O resulted in a resounding defeat: some 500 southern Chinese pirates were killed in action with 1,000 more taken prisoner. Fourteen pirate ships sank in the battle.

By this time, the British were free to hunt pirates anywhere in Chinese waters, with Tung Chung Fort serving as home base. Numerous police depots were set up on the outlying islands, including Tai O Police Station, with officers garrisoned to track and combat pirates prevalent in the neighbouring waters.

Ultimately, however, it was technological advancement rather than dedicated colonial troops that put an end to piracy on the southern Chinese coast. Chinese lorchas were outclassed by the newly emerging, ironclad Western steamships, and our storybook anti-heroes, the dashing descendants of Cheung Po Tsai and Cheng I Sao, found they could no longer rule the waves.

ISLANDERS HAD TWO CHOICES – TO MOVE WITH THEIR FAMILIES INLAND OR TAKE TO THE HIGH SEAS TO PILLAGE, PLUNDER AND LOOT

Bay Media

Taichi Kho

The first Hong Kong player to win an Asian tour.

Join us in giving a round of applause to DB golfer Taichi Kho, winner of the World City Championship, March 2023 at the Hong Kong Golf Club

Photo credit: Richard Gordon Photography

LANTAU HIKE: FROM NAM SHAN TO TUNG CHUNG

Drawing you up the lower slopes of Sunset Peak and then down through remote Wong Lung Hang Valley, this walk culminates at Tung Chung Fort, a relic of yesteryear, nestling in the shadow of a modern-day tower block.

The cooler weather is the high point of Lantau’s hiking season, and there’s no better time to tackle this glorious walk. Though close to Tung Chung, Wong Lung Hang Valley is little walked, so bring along your mobile phone. And pack your swimming kit, as it may be warm enough for a dip in the rock pools near journey’s end.

Your starting point is Nam Shan picnic site, two miles outside of Mui Wo. It’s accessed from the South Lantau Road and marked by a big, wooden arch announcing the start of the Lantau Trail. There is a bus stop close by and all buses out of Mui Wo and Tung Chung stop here. Just ask the driver if you’re not sure of the alighting point.

At Nam Shan, you’ll see way markers pointing you towards Sunset Peak, follow these along a path that the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department (AFCD) has planted with indigenous trees. This is one of the AFCD’s showcase projects, and it’s well worth taking the time to read the display information and learn something about the enormous variety of flora lining your way.

PAK KUNG AU MOUNTAIN PASS

From here, follow the yellow way markers of the Lantau Trail signing the way to Pak Kung Au mountain pass. The trail starts to ascend, shrouded by thick jungle, as starbursts of sunlight twinkle through the canopy above. Listen out for the sound of bells, which will put you in

mind of the Mediterranean. You might be lucky enough to see a herd of goats (they happen to live here), crossing your path in search of tasty fresh grass on the slopes above.

After 30 minutes or so, you break through the jungle canopy and hit the open slopes. On a good day the views down to Pui O and along the South Lantau coast

REPORTING & PHOTOS BY Martin Lerigo

JUNGLE TRAIL AT PAK KUNG AU

which tumbles down towards the ever-expanding conurbation of Tung Chung.

WONG LUNG HANG VALLEY

Wong Lung Hang Valley sees few visitors. I’ve never passed another person walking this path, and that alone makes it a glorious discovery. The path descends steeply at first, entering groves of giant bamboo and acacia, then on through many twists and turns, crossing tumbling waterfalls that descend to the valley floor below.

You’ll almost certainly hear the shyest of all Hong Kong creatures, the barking deer that hide deep in the jungle undergrowth. Stand

MUI WO FROM PAK KUNG AU; VIEW OF LANTAU PEAK

still and quiet for five minutes and you have a good chance of seeing one, trotting down to the rockpools for some fresh mountain water.

Keep descending on the well-designated path. About halfway down, you are rewarded by a breath-taking view across the valley, towards Lin Fa Shan. Only on a clear day can you truly appreciate the scale and breadth of the valley, the clear air removing the particles that affect the depth of field in our vision.

Here the descent becomes steeper and eventually brings you to concrete steps, connecting with Wong Lung Hang Road. Turn left and walk along this road towards Tung Chung. There is no traffic, as this is a closed Water Supplies Department access road for a sealed reservoir higher up the valley.

After about 10 minutes keep an eye open to your right, and listen for the rush of running water. This spot marks the start of the mountain stream that runs off from the valley and eventually makes its way to the sea, two miles away. Local villagers, and people living in Yat Tung Estate nearby, like to come here, and collect water from the stream.

Beyond a layby, on the right, is a small path that cuts its way through to a large rockpool – an amazing place to have a swim near your journey’s end. Enjoy the fresh, chill waters that shimmer aquamarine and azure under the dappled sunlight.

TUNG CHUNG FORT

After this refreshing stop, re-join Wong Lung Hang Road and turn right towards Tung Chung. After five minutes or so, you join the main Tung Chung Road, adjacent to Yat Tung Estate. Turn left and walk for five minutes, looking out for Tung Chung Fort which lies just ahead on your left-hand side. You’ll see a signpost for the fort nestled in amongst other signs for local restaurants.

Through a path between local houses, you’ll see the entrance to Tung Chung Fort, a seldom visited and rather lonely relic of Hong Kong’s past. The fort dates from the 12th century Southern Song Dynasty. It has gone through many incarnations since then, the current structure dating to 1843, when the fort was resurrected as a defence against pirates. Once a school and more recently home to the Tung Chung Rural Committee, this unique piece of local history seems all but forgotten, tucked away out of sight and hidden from all but the most inquisitive.

Standing inside Tung Chung Fort’s central compound, the six remaining cast-iron cannons point directly at Yat Tung Estate, which towers in the distance, testament to the amazing change development has brought to Lantau.

WATERFALL IN WONG LUNG HANG VALLEY; BARKING DEER; ROCKPOOL NEAR YAT TUNG ESTATE; TUNG CHUNG FORT

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SPRING BREAK-FASTS

TRY THESE EASY-TO-MAKE, EGG-BASED BRUNCH DISHES, JUST PERFECT FOR THE LONG EASTER WEEKEND

EASY EGG MUFFINS

Serves 4

1tbsp oil

150g broccoli, finely chopped

1 red pepper, finely chopped

4 slices bacon, chopped

2 spring onions, sliced

6 large eggs

1tbsp milk

Pinch of smoked paprika

50g cheddar or gruyère, grated

Handful of chives, chopped

Heat the oven to 200˚C. Brush half the oil across an 8-hole muffin tin. Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan and add the broccoli, pepper, bacon and spring onions. Fry for 5 mins. Set aside to cool.

Whisk the eggs with the milk, smoked paprika and half the cheese in a bowl. Add the fried ingredients. Pour the egg mixture into the muffin holes and top each with the remaining cheese and a few chives. Bake for 15-17 mins or until golden brown.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF Adobe Stock

EGGS BENEDICT

Makes 4 halves

2 egg yolks

½tsp white-wine vinegar

125g butter, melted

Squeeze of lemon juice

Pinch of cayenne pepper

4 free-range eggs

2 toasting muffins

4 slices Parma ham

To make the hollandaise sauce, whisk the egg yolks, white-wine vinegar, a pinch of salt and a splash of ice-cold water in a glass bowl. Place the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and whisk continuously until pale and thick, about 3-5 mins. Remove from the heat and slowly whisk in the warm melted butter bit by bit until you have a creamy hollandaise. Season with lemon juice and cayenne pepper. Keep warm until needed.

Next, poach the eggs and toast the muffins. Then, spread some sauce on each muffin, scrunch a slice of Parma ham on top, then top with an egg. Spoon over the remaining hollandaise and serve at once.

LOCAL NUMBERS

DISCOVERY BAY

CHEUNG CHAU BUN FESTIVAL

Cheung Chau Bun Festival is one of Hong Kong’s whackiest and most authentic cultural celebrations. It dates back to the 18th century, when islanders celebrated the end of a plague in their village by parading an image of Pak Tai, the God of Water, through the streets; carrying their kids around on high poles and scrambling up bun towers. I did say whacky, right?

This year, from April 16 to May 27, we can expect a six-week carnival at Cheung Chau’s Pak Tai Temple Playground. Featuring market stalls, game booths, handicraft workshops, lion and dragon dances and bun-tower climbing, the festival culminates in the final round of the legendary Bun Scrambling Competition.

Whether or not you attend the carnival, make sure you’re in Cheung Chau on the afternoon of May 27 to witness Piu Sik, the famous Floating Colours Procession, which is led by a huge image of Pak Tai. As villagers beat gongs and drums to scare away evil spirits, local children, dressed as legendary and modern heroes, are suspended high above the crowd on towering poles and paraded through the streets –though secured within steel frames, they appear to glide through the air.

The fun continues at a quarter to midnight, when villagers burn a paper effigy of Zhong Kui, the King of the Ghosts; light enormous incense sticks and prepare for the main event.

The Bun Scrambling Competition is held at midnight in front of Pak Tai Temple. Historically, young men of the village would race up three, 60-foot bamboo bun towers and then strip the towers of their buns on their way down. This year, 12 trained athletes, selected from preliminary competitions, will compete, climbing a single, steel-framed bun tower.

The competition was banned by the government in 1978 after one of the bamboo bun towers collapsed, injuring more than 100 people. It was reinstated as a race, due to popular demand, in 2005. A lot of credit for the revival is given to Hong Kong-made animated feature My Life as McDull, which was a big hit on its release in December 2001. During the movie, McDull decides to train as an Olympic athlete but he’s a bit of a dummy, so the sport he chooses to specialise in is… bun scrambling.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF Adobe Stock

BUN SCRAMBLING AND FLOATING KIDS