Wings issue 22

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

ISSUE 22 MARCH–MAY 2015

THE INFLIGHT MAGAZINE OF ARIK AIR

FASHION FORWARD The best of African style now

ALTERNATIVE ADVENTURES Pioneering tours in West Africa & beyond

Urban renewal and London’s new destination neighbourhoods

WELCOME

Message from the Arik Air Family © iStockphoto• © Jonathan Pergugia

A EDITOR IN CHIEF Emma Woodhouse ART DIRECTOR Phil Millard

PUBLISHER Inflight Publications Wings is published by Inflight Publications on behalf of Arik Air. Address editorial enquiries to editor@arikwings.com ADVERTISING SALES Nsikan Udo-Osoh ads@arikwings.com Call/Text +234 806 888 8686 Printed at Rotocayfo Impresia Ibérica, Barcelona All material is copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission of the copyright holder. While every effort is made to ensure all prices and data are correct at the time of publication Arik Air is not responsible for editorial errors.

Opinions expressed in Wings are not necessarily those of Arik Air and Arik Air does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any images or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.

s Winter begins to draw to a close and we enter the Spring months, it gives me great pleasure to welcome you all to another edition of Wings. Of particular significance, last year saw us once again expand our offering in the travel section, via the launch of a new ‘travel package’ product which seeks to incorporate airline seats with hotel rooms.

‘Arik Explorer’ (www.arikexplorer.com), which was launched in Lagos in December 2014, as a subsidiary of Arik Air, offers travel packages at two levels: ‘Premium’ and ‘Affordable’. The offering will be for both outbound and inbound travel from Lagos and other destinations serviced by Arik Air. This new venture will allow us to provide enjoyable quality excursions, as well as hotels and activities, thus establishing a market presence in an exciting new sector for us.

As West and Central Africa’s largest carrier, we take pride in maintaining high standards of excellence and November saw Arik suitably rewarded. The airline won four awards at the 11th Security Watch Africa Awards, Lecture and Exhibition held in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. One after the other, our management representatives took to the stage to receive the various categories of the awards. Of import, the airline won the Best Safety and Security Conscious Airline in West and Central Africa, the fourth consecutive year Arik Air has won this award.

In January 2015, we were delighted to resume flight services to Cotonou, Benin Republic and Douala, Cameroon – flight services between Lagos, Nigeria and Cotonou/Douala had been suspended last year in the wake of the outbreak of Ebola in some parts of West Africa. We pray for the souls of those lost to the ravages of the devastating Ebola epidemic. Moreover, we offer our support and stand in solidarity with our fellow West Africans who continue to battle with the effects of the virus.

Resumption of the aforementioned services was quickly followed by the decision to commence scheduled flight operations from Lagos, Nigeria to the Ivoirian city, Abidjan via Cotonou, Benin Republic. We are delighted to have once again expanded our reach to give customers more choice.

We always seek to further grow our network in to the West African region so please do keep checking our website Arikair.com for further details on new routes and special offers.

In this edition, Wings showcases exciting travel opportunities in the region. We venture along the mystical Gambian coast, Emma Forrest meets the tour guides that specialise in unique African trips beyond the usual game safaris and Larissa Clark tells us about the inspiring work of Unite 4 West Africa. Meanwhile, as the weather gets warmer in our international destinations, we travel to some of London’s most interesting neighbourhoods and try out New York’s food trends.

We hope that you will enjoy the 22nd edition of Wings Magazine. Thank you for travelling with us today. From everyone at Arik Air, we wish you an enjoyable flight and onward journey.

Fly Safe, Fly Well, Fly Arik Air

Dr. Michael Arumemi-Ikhide Group CEO, Arik Air 3

ISSUE 22 MARCH—MAY 2015

CONTENTS

24 41 60 86 SEAT 1A 11 LIFESTYLE The forefront of travel news and trends

18 GALLIVANTER

FEATURES

What’s on and when at Arik Air destinations

41 COOL QUARTERS

21 REVIEWS Books, blogs, film, art and music

24 FOOD & DRINK Restaurants, recipes and epicurean adventures

29 INFLIGHT RESPITE

COVER STORY Urban renewal and London’s destination neighbourhoods

68 SPIRIT OF THE SEASIDE A journey along The Gambia’s sacred coastline

Wandering and pondering

76 WEST AFRICA UNITED

30 HEALTH & BEAUTY

Unite 4 West Africa is on a mission to rebuild tourism in the region

92 AFRICA’S FUTURE CITIES From tech parks to self-contained cities, Nigeria, Ghana and DRC introduce ambitious plans

PEOPLE 60 ALTERNATIVE ADVENTURES The tour guides exploring unusual sides of Africa

82 TOTS ON TOUR

Wellbeing, inside and out

Invaluable tips on travelling with little ones

34 FASHION

86 SWEET SOUL SISTER

Style news and tips from fashion’s new frontier

Meet Temi Dollface, the Nigerian artist forging a unique musical path

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74 68

97 ARIK ZONE News, onboard information and useful contacts

107 WINGTIPS Embark on the trip of a lifetime with Wings’ destination guides

CONTENTS

Contributors

Meet some of the talented people behind this issue…

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Lakin Ogunbanwo

Helen Jennings

Tatiana Michala

Lakin Ogunbanwo is a Nigerian photographer based in Lagos.

Celebrated for his bold fashion and portrait imagery, In 2013 CNN profiled him as one of ‘Africa’s most exciting new photographers.’

Though you wouldn’t know it from his photos, he says, “I’m very shy and sensitive.”

The musician Asa and author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie are among his most memorable subjects, “I’ve always been a huge fan and having them in my space was really special.”

His provocative photographic style combined with a sensitive perspective make for getting the best out of Nigeria’s most impressive women. Lakin photographs Temi Dollface in Lagos (page 86).

Helen Jennings is an awardwinning editor, journalist, author and stylist based in London. She is author of New African Fashion, the first coffee table book to delve into the contemporary African fashion industry, published by Prestel.

Her work has appeared on the BBC, CNN, MTV, Grazia, and The Guardian, among others.

Helen always has her finger on the pulse of what’s happening in fashion and popular culture in Africa’s coolest cities. She gives us the lowdown on the names and places to know in fashion (page 34) and interviews Temi Dollface in Lagos (page 86).

Tatiana Michala is a Greek writer and translator based in Tel Aviv. Fluent in five languages, her work as a translator has led her to explore the notion of cultural bridges and she is always interested in spotting all those elements that constitute universal common ground.

Tatiana has co-edited and translated literary works, academic books and articles and is a contributor to National Geographic, the Huffington Post and various other magazines and newspapers.

“Despite being a city dweller with no survival skills whatsoever, I once spent three months saving baby turtles on a remote beach,” she says. Her obvious adaptability puts her in good stead to offer tips for travelling with children (page 82).

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IF NUMBER 3 IS LUCKY,

MUST BE PROOF For a bank that has been around for over 120 years, this consistent recognition is proof that our commitment to creating a brand that adds value to our customers, partners and shareholders is working.

FirstBank climbed 46 places in the last year moving up in the global ranking and maintaining its lead as the Most Valuable Bank Brand in Nigeria for the 4th time.

Thank you to our valued customers and all our very hardworking employees who helped make this award possible 4 years in a row.

There is no limit to how much we can do together to shape the future. *Awarded by The Banker Magazine of the Financial Times Group.

*

Your passport to the latest travel, lifestyle & entertainment news 12

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LIFESTYLE

GALLIVANTER

REVIEWS

FOOD & DRINK

INFLIGHT RESPITE

HEALTH & BEAUTY

FASHION

Scooter luggage and selfie drones – It’s time to have more fun

Your guide to the festivals, cultural highlights, parties and general fun and frolics at Arik destinations

Epic entertainment from March to May, and beyond

Kale to cronuts – New York City food fads and where to enjoy them

Adam Jacot investigates London’s weird rules and pregrogatives

Wacky workouts in Dubai, Johannesburg, London and New York

New designers, boutiques and labels – Wings’ hot list of African fashion

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FASHION FORWARD

© Simon Denier/SDR

Maxhosa and the Afrcian designers hitting it big

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SEAT 1A

LIFESTYLE The forefront of travel news & trends

Holiday Hijinks

Wings checks out some products, gadgets, places and experiences to make your travels more fun, for a range of budgets WORDS OWEN BAILEY

ON THE BEACH SANDLESS SUMMER

Sand-Free Rug

Legendary US comedian Bill Hicks never understood people’s fascination with the beach, insisting: “It’s where dirt meets water, alright?” If you disagree, try one of these — a Sand-Free Rug from CGear, an Australian company specialising in patented sand-free technology.

The rug’s unique weave incorporates the principle of ‘one-way sift’, so particles that fall on it will pass through unassisted and won’t come back up. The result is a sand-free, hose-down reusable rug for the

suitcase or back of the car. $44.99, cgear-sandfree.com BEST FOR: Grit-free picnics, sand-free suitcases FOOT NOTES

Personalized Sand Imprint Flip-Flops

The simple ideas are always the best. Head to the FlipSidez site, select the size and colour of your flip-flops, and then choose from a range of pre-ordered designs – including ‘HAKUNA MATATA’, ‘CARPE DIEM’ and the most popular design, ‘FOLLOW ME, BRING BEER’ – or think up your own imaginative, romantic or just plain idiotic two-footed message to the world and have it customised for the next time you take a wander along the shore. $24.95, flipsidez.com BEST FOR: Retracing your steps after a night at the beach bar

ON THE MOVE HEAD PONCHO

Ostrich Pillow

Studio Banana Things specialises in ingenious everyday objects that put the fun into the 12

Against the Grain Avoid getting sandy with a CGear sand-free rug

Lifestyle | SEAT 1A

functional, and the Ostrich Pillow is designed to eliminate sights and sounds so you can nap with ease. It fits cosily over your head, with two arm-holes, and creates a micro environment perfect for an economy-class flight or a bumpy overnight bus ride. Don’t worry that it makes you look like a comfort-conscious Cyberman from Doctor Who, either, because soon everyone will be wearing them – plus, it’ll fold up into your carry-on luggage. $99, ostrichpillow.com BEST FOR: Conveying ‘Do Not Disturb’ while looking a bit disturbing PEBBLE POWER

Pebble Watch

How do you escape the tyranny of technology on your travels?

Well, this high-tech gadget might just help you do that. The Pebble Watch is a digital Smart Watch with thousands of downloadable ‘watchface’ apps, which can offer you on-wrist message notifications, GoPro camera control, fitness tracking, flight-checking, weather and so on, all in a stylish, water-resistant

design with up to seven days’ battery life. Why spend your entire holiday checking your phone, when you can check your watch, instead? Much better. £99, getpebble.com/pebble BEST FOR: Helping you leave your phone alone SCOOTS YOU, SIR

Micro 3-In-1 Luggage Scooter

US electro-house superstar DJ Steve Aoki helped design this funky reimagining of the humble

carry-on case, adorned with Aoki’s Dim Mak label graphics. An all-in-one kickboard, case and trolley, it meets the approval criteria for carry-on luggage when folded, and it also has integrated Sound2Go speakers which enable you to play your music via your smartphone as you whiz through the departure lounge.

Ostentatious it may be, but hand luggage everywhere is clearly jealous of the fun it’s having. £249.95, micro-scooters.co.uk BEST FOR: Leaving on a jet plane – in style

ON THE WEB ARMCHAIR ADVENTURES

Sidetracked Online Journal

Every journey starts at a homepage, and if you’re looking for inspiration for your next adventure, this beautifully designed site is the perfect online destination. It covers adventure travels, extreme

challenges and cultural expeditions with the emphasis on contributors’ personal journeys, and through a series of interviews with well-known explorers and survivalists such as polar trekker Ben Saunders and survivalist Ray Mears, there’s something here for every ambitious traveller itching for a challenge. sidetracked.com BEST FOR: Whetting your appetite for adventure SKY LARK

Aerobatic Flight Experience

If you’re visiting London and fancy injecting a dash of

Clockwise from above Fun Factor Pebble Watch digital smart watch; Micro Scooter luggage scooter; Online journal ,Sidetracked.com, The ostrich pillow

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SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

ON THE HORIZON SKY MOVIES

Selfie Drones

Top Thrills Co-pilot a plane an hour from London; Set off on a global scavenger hunt; Take a selfie with an Air Dog drone

It may not be with us quite yet, but at über-geeky tech show CES 2015, the most-hyped product by far was the Selfie Drone. Like it or not, these automated flying camera drones will soon become a fixture of our skies, and with products such as the AirDog and Hexo+ promising intelligent auto-follow features as well as mobile-phone control, surfers, mountain bikers, skiers and extreme sports lovers of all stripes are going to find them impossible to resist. $1,295 ex.

VAT, airdog.com BEST FOR: Over-dramatising your trip to the ice-cream van on the beach SLEEPING WITH THE FISHES

Undersea Resorts

adrenaline-inducing aerial adventure into your trip, what better way than to take to the skies for an aerobatic flight experience? Travel to Surrey, an hour away from the capital, and after a comprehensive briefing where you choose how brave (or foolhardy) you want to be, you’ll board your Cessna 152 with your pilot and hold on tight for a breathtaking 30-minute sequence of manoeuvres including rolls, stall-turns, Cuban eights and the like. Then you can take the controls from the instructor, and have a fly yourself. £155, redletterdays.co.uk BEST FOR: Thrillseekers, frequent flyers, crazy people

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WIN A HOLIDAY

Global Scavenger Hunt

Competitive travel is apparently a ‘trend’ for 2015... And we’re not talking about how many cocktails you can sink by the hotel pool. The Global Scavenger Hunt 2015 is definitely more Indiana Jones than Bridget Jones, as teams from around the world compete to solve clues and earn points for a $25,000 prize by visiting at least 10 different countries on a three-week ‘blind date with the

world’ – relying on street smarts and travel savvy rather than guidebooks and smartphones.

And it’s all in aid of raising funds for the organisation’s charitable foundation, GreatEscape. $25,000 per team, globalscavengerhunt.com BEST FOR: Meeting strangers in strange lands

With space tourism still tantalisingly out of reach, for now, maybe it’s time to explore holiday potential beneath the waves. You can already dine beneath the waves at Conrad Maldives’ Ithaa undersea restaurant, and now the Poseidon Undersea Resort in Fiji is gearing up to offer rooms and fine dining below the sea, personal Triton submarines, luxury seabed submersible tours, and unrivalled island tranquility. It may be for the super-rich at the moment, but we expect that more attainable versions will spring up in countries all around the world before long. $15,000 per person per week, poseidonresorts.com BEST FOR: The ultimate immersive holiday experience

Under the Sea Poseidon specialise in undersea resorts and restaurants

SEAT 1A | Lifestyle

Hello Dolly When Taofick Okoya failed to find a black doll for his niece he created Queens of Africa and Naija Princesses, dolls that are dedicated, through the use of the books, music and animation, to help instil confidence in children of African descent and their counterparts.

Budge over, Barbie. queensofafricadolls.com

Techy Terminal Airports Company South Africa has launched a free app that provides easy navigation for its 9 airports including Johannesburg. It comes with maps, tools to expedite reservations, arrivals and departures, and city travel information. Search your app store for Airports Company South Africa.

Geeks on Tour There’s no need to pretend that you enjoy queuing to see the Empire State Building. Take one of hundreds of tours around the world given by prominent professors, archeologists, historians, and urban planners. Just plug in your dates and book a tour. contexttravel.com Trends taking off Fads ready for landing

Auto-Tune Drivel Bad music was driving us to despair so we found Brooklyn-based Hype Machine. The company keeps track of new tunes from 846 music blogs across genres. Press play for better music.

Hypem.com

Holding it in Regularly sashaying around with a full bladder can cause long-term health problems.

Luckily, a new app called Air PnP (badoom kish!) helps you find a toilet wherever you are in New York City, at a price. Find one or list your own. App.AirPnp.co

Everyday Cafés We’ve seen cat cafes, cereal cafés – It’s not enough to serve drinks these days. For one week, beginning the 19th March, drink cocktails surrounded by live owls and a falconer to keep them in check. locappy.com/ annietheowl

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Akwaaba! Discover new spots with the Accra visitor’s map

Access Accra

The Emerging Business Lab is putting Ghana’s LARISSA CLARK capital firmly on the map WORDS

V

isitors to Accra, new and old, will be happy to hear that the inaugural edition of the GLO Accra Visitors Map has been published and is in circulation.

A custom-designed illustration covering the important districts of Ghana’s capital, the map features a detailed collection of nearly 100 of the city’s finest hotels, restaurants, bars, nightclubs, shops, banks and popular brands on five maps, which also include government agencies, landmarks, hospitals, embassies, places of worship, schools, and other essential places of interest.

The maps include all the popular areas of the Ghanaian metropolis, such as James Town Ridge, Osu, Cantonments, Labone, Labadi, Airport Residential, Roman Ridge, Dzorwulu, East Legon, and Spintex Road; and also features the locations of Glo Mobile Ghana’s GloWorld Shops so you can get connected as soon as you arrive, as well as the full-service branches and ATMs of Stanbic bank.

Given it’s the only map of its kind for tourists, business visitors, local residents, expatriates, and relocating professionals, you might expect this handy pocket-sized guide to come with a hefty price tag. The best news? It’s free.

Anyone can download a PDF version of the map before a visit to Accra where they can pick up a free printed copy. Be sure to use it to plan your stay by discovering the best that the city has to offer. Although hold on tight as all the taxi drivers will want to borrow your copy. You’ll be venturing far from your hotel without fear of never finding it again as you discover the older parts of Accra, around the ministries, and the even older parts of Osu: where Labadi Road narrows. Here you can still have a sense of Old Christiansborg High Street.

“Adabraka is a really cool area” says Matthew Jones, one of the map’s creators “so much of Accra has this incredible character, I've really come to see these districts as diamonds in

the rough that could be redeveloped into the heart of the city. I've also discovered gems like the George Padmore Research Centre and the Accra Central Library that I would have never found if we hadn’t developed this map”.

He reflected on why his organisation, Emerging Business Lab, chose to draw Accra as their second city in West Africa after five years of producing Liberia’s Monrovia Visitors Map; “Accra was actually the first African city that I ever visited, many years ago. Although it is a major gateway for all of West Africa, there are only a handful of guides for visitors, and no detailed maps that really showcased the city. It seemed a natural next step to introduce the Accra Visitors Map.” Proudly printed in Ghana, free printed copies of the GLO Accra Visitors Map can be found at local hotels, restaurants and shops and is available to download from accravisitorsmap.com. Share your experience and tips on the map’s Facebook page: facebook. com/accravisitorsmap

SEAT 1A

GALLIVANTER What‘s on & when at Arik Air destinations

Gidi Culture Festival When April 4 Where Lagos Launched just last year, this one-day beach festival is already making waves (pun intended).

GCFest starts in the afternoon with beach soccer, live bands and more. If you’re peckish, the Melting Pot food court serves dishes from all over Nigeria, and will surely provide stamina for an evening of open-air dancing. An amazing line up includes M.I., SDC, Waje, Yemi Alade, Falz, Ghana’s EL, Kenya’s Victoria Kimani, and the Congo’s Awilo who will entertain festivalgoers on the main stage. Temi Dollface, Ebisan and Kenya’s Sauti Sol will be lighting up the live stage. DJ Neptune, DJ Lambo and South Africa’s DJ Gino Brown will bring the beats while hosts N6 and Taymi B are joined by UK Comedian Eddie Kadi. Last year saw 4,500 partygoers arrive at Elegushi Beach and this year even more are set to take to Eko Atlantic.

Presented by Eclipse Live, the festival celebrates African music, food, fashion, art and sport. Speaking about the event, Chin Okeke, one of the founders says, “The Gidi Culture Festival is built around three core pillars - youth, live entertainment and Africa…The festival is homegrown in, Las Gidi, the heart of modern day Nigeria. There will be something for all."

GCFest works to break down socioeconomic barriers with entertainment that appeals to youth-minded individuals, aiming to export the superbly curated African festival to foreign markets by 2018. Check online for further information, giveaways, and goodies.

© Marcio Cabral, Brazil, Shortlist, Panoramic, Open • © Byron Dilkes, UK, Shortlist, Travel, Open, 2015 Sony World Photography Awards

gidiculturefestival.com

Sony World Photography Awards When April 24—10 May Where London The world’s largest photography exhibition returns to Somerset House this Spring to showcase the winning and shortlisted images of the 2015 Sony World

Photography Awards.

The panel received a whopping 173, 444 entries from 171 countries, sent by professional and amateur photographers. Diverse categories span portraiture, current affairs, landscape, sport and still life, and never fail to conjure the breadth of emotions in viewers.

Two guest exhibitions will be on display alongside the show: Images by legendary Magnum photographer Elliott Erwitt and #FutureofCities, a nine month social documentary initiative examining how cities around the world are coping with the large-scale migrations of people to urban environments.

Expertly curated and presented, the show is a highlight of the season and now, for the first time, visitors will be able to purchase prints of the photographs on display courtesy of the hub. Tickets are £6.50 on weekdays and £8.50 on the weekend with cheaper concessions available. worldphoto.org/2015exhibition

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Gallivanter | SEAT 1A

Staying Power: Photographs of Black British Experience 1950s-1990s

© Normski / Victoria and Albert, London

When Until May 24 Where London London’s iconic V&A museum will present a free display of over fifty recently acquired photographs that explore the experiences of black communities in Britain in the latter half of the 20th century.

Over the last seven years the V&A has been working with Black Cultural Archives to acquire an incredibly insightful collection of photographs which document the lives of black people in Britain, a previously underrepresented area in the V&A’s photography collection. The museum has been able to

collect 118 works by 17 artists ranging from Yinka Shonibare’s large-scale series Diary of a Victorian Dandy (1998), to studies of elaborate headties worn by Nigerian women, by J.D. Okhai Ojeikere, to black and white street photography of 1970s London

by Al Vandenberg.

Music, style and fashion are documented in Raphael Albert’s depictions of the black beauty pageants he organised from the 1960s to the 1980s to help celebrate the growing black community in Britain and Norman ‘Normski’ Anderson’s colourful depictions of vibrant youth culture of the 1980s and ’90s.

The display also features more conceptual explorations of race and identity. Yinka Shonibare’s series, Diary of a Victorian Dandy, depicts the artist playing the role of a dandy.

The work demonstrates Shonibare’s identification with the dandy as an outsider or foreigner who uses his flamboyance, wit and style to penetrate the highest levels of society, which would otherwise be closed to him.

To complement the photographs, Black Cultural Archives have collected oral histories from a range of subjects including the photographers themselves, their relatives, and the people depicted in the images. Black Cultural Archives will also present an exhibition drawn from the V&A’s Staying Power collection (15 January—30 June 2015) at their heritage centre in Brixton.

Tribeca Film Festival When April 15-26 Where New York Famously founded in 2002 by the most ‘New York’ of New York actors, Robert de Niro, and two of his friends, the Tribeca Film Festival has an international feel to it, with a multitude of independent documentaries, narrative features, and shorts from over 80 countries shown.

Its mission is to enable people to experience the power of film, but goes beyond that, enabling a meeting of creative minds with panel discussions from the worlds of film and music, a music lounge, and the Artists Awards program in which emerging artists produce original works of art that are given to the filmmaker winners.

Venues are in theatres throughout Tribeca and the rest of New York City. Tickets range from $10-$18, and passes for the whole festival are available. tribecafilm.com/festival

The Rand Show When April 3—12 Where Johannesburg The Rand Show has been going for a truly impressive 120 years so far, and it’s easy to see why; It’s packed with events for absolutely everyone, from camouflage-clad military enthusiasts trying out their own skills on missile simulators to animal lovers cooing over bird shows. There’s musical entertainment, explosive science shows, and the Miss Rand competition on the showtime stage, a huge number of exhibits, plus fun fair rides and a kid’s zone for the little ones. Some of the best entertainment, however, is found at the other competitions happening at the Rand Show — a heart-stopping display of car and bike stunts, where you’ll see the natural successors to Evel Knievel speed and spin on one wheel while barely hanging on, and the sight of South Africa’s strongest men lifting up cars in the Strongest Man qualifiers.

Open from 9am–7pm, tickets range from R20 for children under 12 to R100 for adults, with concessions available for teenagers and those over the age of 65. Children under six go free. randshow.co.za

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SEAT 1A | Reviews

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Reviews | SEAT 1A

SEAT 1A

REVIEWS

Animated Folklore Princess Zahara from new series Spider Stories

Books, blogs, film, art & music

Culture List

African animation, a memorial bus for Ken Saro-Wiwa, and new music by Nneka and Samba Touré – cultural happenings from March to May and beyond.

WORDS

NANA OCRAN

Animation Series SPIDER STORIES For 45 days in 2013, self-trained animators Charles and John Agbaje ran a Kickstarter campaign. Their mission? To get the ball rolling on Spider Stories, a fantasy action adventure based on mythical African folktales and mythology. $300,000 and 700 backers later, the Los Angelesbased siblings are now in a robust position to create a fully-fledged animation series that’s accessible on digital streaming platforms. Geared towards a discerning young audience, the plot revolves around princess Zahara who loses her kingdom but must fight to reclaim her throne.

Accompanied by spirit allies and a caravan of travelling merchants, “it’s a universal story with a unique cultural perspective that’s never been seen before” explains Charles Agbaje. “Stylistically we want to create deep fantastic worlds for epic storytelling in a cinematic style like those found in Star Wars or Lord of the Rings.

Master works in 2D animation like the Lion King and Avatar: The Last Airbender, as well as action found in anime like Dragon Ball Z and Samurai Champloo have

also influenced our sensibilities.”

With a team composed of musicians and artists, the project is well underway, and since developing a partnership with a production studio, the brother’s creative vision to produce a unique animation world is rapidly being realised. centralcitytower.com

Art BATTLE BUS Almost a decade ago, the art and campaigning collective Platform London, held an international open competition to create a living legend to Ken Saro-Wiwa,

the late Nigerian writer and environmental activist. With a judging panel that included artist Yinka Shonibare MBE, and Ken Wiwa Jr, it was sculptor Sokari Douglas Camp’s proposal that won out. Launched in 2006, her Battle Bus has been travelling around the UK ever since. Now, the art piece is heading over to Nigeria. Working closely with the Ogoni people in the Delta region (Saro-Wiwa’s homeland), as well as with other arts partners.

Platform London’s plan is to permanently move the bus to Ogoniland via Lagos and Port Harcourt as a lifelong memorial.

Of Douglas Camp’s

internationally renowned sculptures, the Battle Bus is the largest, and arguably the most politically potent. As a last port of call, its West African ‘resting place’ as a site for international attention seems more than appropriate. platformlondon.org, sokari.co.uk

Music MY FAIRY TALES BY NNEKA “Sooner or later,” says Mark Edwards of the UK’s Sunday Times, “we will all be bowled over by Nneka’s music.” We already are.

One of Nigeria’s most famous

Living Legend Platform London’s Battle Bus moves from the UK to Nigeria

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© Philippe San Miguel

SEAT 1A | Reviews

Toure de Force Gandadiko by Samba Toure is a hopeful new album

© Hugues Lawson

Fairytale Princess Nigerian musical legend Nneka releases new album ‘My Fairy Tales’

exports is best known for her 2008 hit Heartbreak (also sampled on Rita Ora’s RIP). The outspoken singer won Best African Act at the MOBOs in 2009 and has since made her way to playlists the world over with her combination of powerful, personal and political lyrics and multi-faceted voice.

Nneka’s new album My Fairy Tales focuses on the artist’s roots with a firm afrobeat footing.

Tackling the politics of her birthplace in the Niger Delta and her personal voyage of discovery, songs include Babylon that tells of a regional plight in West Africa and Local Champion about her current hometown of Warri.

Nneka has toured with Nas and Damian Marley (a distant relative) and has collaborated with a host of household names that include Lenny Kravitz and Tricky but she firmly holds her own. Already legendary, Nneka is here for a long time coming.

Nneka will play at The Village Underground in East London on the 7th April 2015.

and singer Samba Touré. The title of the 10-track recording translates as ‘burning land’ or ‘land of the drought’ in the artist’s Songhai language. Though packed with danceable tracks – Wo Yende Alakar (Don’t Play with Fire), Farikoyo (Farmers) and Su Wililé (The Living Deads) being some of them – their messages encourage listeners to live a more hopeful life. It’s obviously significant that this album comes two years after Tourés last fairly mournful one – Albala – which was produced during Mali’s well documented 2012 crisis. Gandadiko offers a sublime balance of vocals and bluesy rhythm guitar that’s well worth a listen. samba-toure.com, glitterbeat.com

Blogs & Websites The online platforms for showcasing and celebrating African art and creativity have gone from strength to strength over the last few years. Here's a tiny tip of the continent’s arts focused networks…

nnekaworld.com

GANDADIKO BY SAMBA TOURÉ Glitterbeat Records has just released its latest album, Gandadiko by the Malian guitarist 22

LAGOS ART BEAT Design, art, architecture and fashion from Africa’s most hyped up city; This is a portal for interviews, reviews as well as one-off, ongoing or permanent

exhibitions and events.

Launched by independent curator and arts writer Joseph Gergel in November 2014, the site is essentially a response to the overwhelming number of creative projects happening in the city. With plans to expand Lagos Art Beat into a documentary TV series, it’s definitely a space to watch. lagosartbeat.com

AFRICA KNOWS Sheila Ochugboju and Joshua Wanyama are the dynamic founders of this online photo agency that stocks a huge library of royalty-free images. The site’s statement title indicates what AfricaKnows does best – highlighting the continent’s

visual stories. The strongest focus is on Kenya, but plenty of other countries come under the spotlight, with 21st century Africa and its revolutions in technology, politics and expression all up for image buyers and sellers to tap into. africaknows.com

AFRIKADAA Afrikadaa Interactive and contemporary African art is reviewed by a collection of artists on this English and French language site. Covering art, design and architecture from a mainly African standpoint the site features a wide selection of contributions from artists from Africa, its diaspora and beyond. afrikadaa.com

Reviews | SEAT 1A

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SEAT 1A

FOOD & DRINK Restaurants, recipes & epicurean adventures.

Table Trends New York is full of fabulous food spots where stand alone gastronomic hits can become superstars with sensational followings WORDS

S

ROCKY CASALE

ome New Yorkers might argue that their city’s sensational food trends began with a cute and fluffy cupcake and from there spun out of control. But now that information can go viral online in seconds, the most humble of ingredients can rise to fame faster than centuries old belaboured recipes. New York is the stage for such humble ingredients to not only shine, but to cause delightful panic, long waiting lines, and an avalanche of articles in the news. With so much fuss, they must be good.

Frosting Delivery The TV show Sex and the City launched a cupcake craze

Toast of the Town Toast NYC “where all good things are toasted”

Over the last several decades, everything from hearty green vegetables to pastry hybrids have been able to steal the culinary spotlight here, as well as make waves overseas. Entire businesses are born out a single piece of toast, or millions are made by finding different ways to render kale. It may all sound silly, but something about these waves of popular foods coming and going does add something to the city; like another layer of culinary intrigue to discover in your travels. Whatever the trend may be, it is safe to say that they

New York is the stage for humble ingredients to not only shine, but to cause delightful panic, long waiting lines, and an avalanche of articles in the news eventually cool down, which is always a good thing for those without patience for the fervour.

Cute As

CUPCAKES The cupcake craze that swept through New York and eventually the rest of the world, arguably began at the Magnolia Bakery.

This West Village landmark bakery and its goods are yummy, but there was a time in the city when the wait for one of these tasty desserts was up to an hour. When the bakery had cameos in HBO’s Sex and the City, the wait for a cupcake became almost intolerable. Now the craze has quieted, but the cupcakes are still just as good.

401 Bleeker Street; 212.462.2572, magnoliabakery.com

Taking the Heat

SRIRACHA One of the hottest food trends in recent years is actually a condiment. Sriracha, which is a spicy chill sauce made with chilli 24

peppers, vinegar, garlic, sugar and salt, is now a mainstream condiment found in almost every casual restaurant in the city. You find Sriracha drizzled on poached eggs, added to burritos, spread on hot-dogs and splattered on pizza slices. You can buy it in any supermarket, and you can’t miss it while you’re in New York City.

Slice of the Action

TOAST Where to begin with toast? This food craze hit New York long before it became highlighted on menus across the United States.

It is rare for a new trendy food to be both entirely accepted and derided in equal measure, but here it is. And it is simply a slice of bread crisped in the oven and topped with something delicious: small batch butter, nutella and caramelised almonds, and the list goes on.

The flak it takes is that bruschetta and crostini have been on the culinary scene for quite a while,

Food & Drink | SEAT 1A

but perhaps their fame burned out earlier than toast because of the lack of variety in their toppings.

2737 Broadway; 212.663.7010, toastnyc.com

Perfect Pastry

THE CRONUT The next runner up for the title of New York’s most famous baked goods goes to the cronut. Like the cupcake, it managed to grip the public’s gastronomic attention and cause those with a love for buttery sweets to line up around the block of the Dominique Ansel Bakery, where the dessert was created. The cronut is essentially a hybrid of the croissant and the donut. Laminated dough, fried in grapeseed oil and sprinkled with sugar before it’s filled with custard is what the latest dessert craze is all about.

189 Spring Street; 212.219.2773, dominiqueansel.com

CITY CUISINE

Taste these 2015 food trends at Arik destination cities

LONDON One Dish Wonders Hot on the heels of La Polenteria in Soho that only makes polenta dishes and Cereal Killer cafe in Shoreditch, serving cereals from all over the world comes the pop-up Porridge Cafe opening on Paul Street in Shoreditch until the end of March 2015. The 25 porridge dishes are unexpectedly appetising and include savoury risottos, quinoa, buckwheat and sweet versions like papaya, apple and chia seed with almond milk. porridgecafe.com

JOHANNESBURG Food Trucks Meals on wheels are a firm favourite in Jozi with food trucks pitching up to sell everything from chocolate chilli chai lattes to South African beers and venison burgers. For a tasty array you

Food Fads Clockwise: Dubai’s Karak House, Neighbourgoods in Johannesburg, London’s porridge cafe

can’t beat Neighbourgoods held every Saturday on Juta Street in Braamfontein. neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/ johannesburg

DUBAI Contemporary Emirati Tradtional Emirati dishes are given a modern makeover at an increasing number of restaurants including Karak House on Mohammad Bin Rashid Boulevard in Downtown Dubai. Dishes include red velvet luqaimat with date and cream cheese and sumac baby chicken with pistachio labneh.

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SEAT 1A | Food & Drink

All Hail Kale New York’s love of this green vegetable continues Rage for Ramen Endless takes on ramen including the ramen burger are on offer

One of New York’s healthier food crazes, kale can now be found on almost every new menu Bowled Over

BIG APPLE BITES

ENDLESS VARIETALS OF RAMEN There have always been great ramen restaurants in town but lately this comforting bowl of food has been doctored up with more than just scallions and tea soaked, soft boiled eggs.

Restaurants like Totto Ramen, a chain in the city, are adapting their menu for vegans, adding avocado to a dish where it never lived before. Other ramen spots are instead amping up the meat factor, adding generous portions of skewered deep fried pork belly that have New Yorkers coming back for more.

Follow these sites for the first nibbles of New York’s foodie news

FOODREPUBLIC Food Republic is one of the leading websites for reading about what is trending in culinary culture today. Its articles and interviews are excellent sources for tapping into the local food scene. foodrepublic.com

EATERNY

464 W 51st Street; 646.596.9056, tottoramen.com

Like Food Republic, EaterNY has a high following of people looking for news, interviews and long features about all things food related. eater.com

Eat Your Greens

CURLY KALE One of New York’s healthier food crazes, kale can now be found on almost every new menu. Steamed and drizzled with olive oil or chopped into a slaw, deep fried and drizzled with sriracha, even dehydrated and baked with parmesan as an alternative to greasy crisps, this is one food trend that isn’t leaving town any time soon.

342 Lexiton Avenue;

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212.867.5252, kalenyc.com

Use Your Noodle

THE RAMEN BURGER Hamburger disciples have never sampled anything quite like a ramen burger, made famous by New York’s Chef Keizo Shimamoto. It was named 'one of the most influential burgers of

all time’ by Time Magazine for its buns made from freshly cut ramen noodles that are girdled into a bun shape and treated with lashings of shoyu glaze. The best one in the city is reputed to be from where it was born.

191 Pearl Street; T. 646.490.8456; ramen.com

GRUB STREET Another popular resource is New York Magazine’s, Grub Street, which has a large focus on the city’s restaurant openings and closings. grubstreet.com

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Inflight Respite | SEAT 1A

SEAT 1A

INFLIGHT RESPITE Wandering & pondering

My Prerogative WORDS

ADAM JACOT DE BOINOD

B

ritain, and London in particular, is riddled with some of the most peculiar rules and privileges. These are manifested in the many royal prerogatives or parliamentary and legal statutes. To the unwitting tourist they must seem both extreme and endearing in their quirky British-ness.

Ravens in the Tower

If you take in the Tower of London, you are bound to be unaware of a decree of Charles 2nd stipulating that six ravens must be kept there at all times.

According to legend, if the ravens leave, both the Tower and the Kingdom will fall and so, as insurance, the Raven Master makes a point of keeping chicks on site.

Rum and Guns

© iStockphoto

Peculiar London customs and the historical stories behind them

Beside the Tower, alongside its pier, for every Royal Navy ship that moors there, she must deliver a barrel of rum to the Tower’s Constable. This has

been in effect since the 14th Century. Every ship that came upstream to the City had to unload a portion of its cargo to enjoy the protection of the Tower of London guns. In the past such bounty would have included oysters, mussels, cockles, rushes and wine. The current stipulation for a barrel of rum acts nowadays as a symbol of the former rights.

Bridge of Understanding

Also on the river Thames, for reasons more understandable in this day and age, is the regulation that prevents you from heating or melting “pitch, fat, rosin, grease, tallow, oil or other combustible matter” on board ships between Blackwall and Westminster Bridge.

On London Bridge however, life’s a joy if you’re a Freeman of London. Not only are you permitted to drive a flock of sheep across the Bridge, you can also herd a gaggle of geese down Cheapside. This is according to

Every ship that came upstream to the City had to unload a portion of its cargo to enjoy the protection of the Tower of London guns

an old book of traditional ceremonies and privileges first presented in 1237 and it is still a title taken up by 1,800 people every year. Even better, you can get as drunk and disorderly as you like without being arrested.

Sounds of Piccadilly There’s no room for disorder for shoppers, however, over in the West End on Piccadilly. They may be amazed to hear of a rule that is still enforced rather too vigorously for some. On the Burlington Arcade, Regency decorum is kept with a rule banning singing, humming, whistling, hurrying and “behaving boisterously”.

Swanning Around

July brings the Swan-Upping week on the Thames and the “Doggett’s Coat and Badge Race”. Many swans make their nests in the upper Thames and are the property of the Crown and the Vintners’ and Dyers’ Companies. Each summer watermen round up the cygnets and cut distinguishing marks on their bills. The Royal Swanherd come from Southwark to Henley identifying and marking the swans, that have been royal birds since 1186 and are the only kind of bird that can be “estray” –

that is, if they are found on common land or open water, they belong to the crown as a prerogative right.

Kaspar the Cat

If you are in a festive mood, book a party of thirteen at the Savoy Hotel’s famous Grill. You’ll find that your table is set for an extra guest called Kaspar the black cat. He is a three-foot high sculpture and has joined guests ever since the 1920s. What happened was that in 1898 a guest called Woolf Joel, gave a dinner party to which only thirteen were able to come.

There was an old superstition that tragedy would hit the first of the thirteen guests to get up from the table. Woolf took no notice and was fatally shot following his return to Johannesburg. The hotel took steps to prevent any chance of a repetition and Kaspar was created specially for the job. The handsome cat was at one time even under the protection of Winston Churchill, who insisted on its safe return following a prank by members of the RAF. It's interesting that for someone who secured liberty for the world still held to such superstitious tendencies.

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SEAT 1A

HEALTH & BEAUTY Well-being, inside and out

Alternative Energy From belly-firming bhangra dancing to life-affirming circus training ­– look beyond the hotel gym. You’ll find all kinds of wacky workouts at Arik’s international destinations WORDS

Ab Fab Bollywood dancing at New York’s The Bollywood Co. and Ailey Extension (above)

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EMMA FORREST

E

veryone knows they should exercise more, but for many, the idea of sweating on a treadmill represents more work than workout. You’re more likely to get off your sofa to join a class that’s fun or teaches you a new skill – like throwing sexy shapes on the dancefloor or juggling oranges to impress your kids –

as you get fit and turbo boost your energy reserves.

Shimmy like a Bollywood star NEW YORK

Cooler than line-dancing and easier than ballroom, dancing Bollywood-style is exhilarating, and you don’t need to be an expert on India’s Bollywood movies

Health & Beauty | SEAT 1A

Into the Sling Julie Swart of Aerial Yoga, Johannesburg

or their epic dance routines to thumping Bhangra music – remember Slumdog Millionaire’s mega-hit theme, Jai Ho? – to enjoy it.

“People fall in love with the beat of Bhangra,” says Sarina Jain, who created the Masala Bhangra classes at Ailey Extension, New York. “The music combined with its sensuous, vigorous movements, recreates the excitement that an occasion is being celebrated. People have so much fun, they don’t realise they are getting an awesome cardiovascular and musclestrengthening workout.”

WHAT WORKOUT? Bollywood dance can burn up to 500 calories an hour, says Nileeka Gunawardene, who founded London’s Bollywood Co dance

studio. She classifies it as a total body workout, toning, arms, legs and abdominals, and building fitness and stamina after just three sessions.

TRY IT: The Bollywood Co, thebollywoodco.com; Ailey Extension, alvinailey.org

Dangle into a downward dog JOHANNESBURG & NEW YORK

Aerial yoga offers a gentler way of hanging upside-down, as you do backbends and tree-poses while dangling in a fabric hammock. The sling reduces weight on the spine and allows

students to hold their poses for longer, stretching deeper and further.

“Some poses become more challenging, while others, like handstand, become easier,” says Cassandra Joy, studio manager at OM Factory New York.

“Students have the chance to find balance, grace, and a sense of play is encouraged.

Everyone who enjoyed swinging on the monkey bars as a kid should try out this fun fusion of yoga and aerial arts.”

WHAT WORKOUT? Founder of Aerial Yoga Johannesburg, Julie Swart recommends the classes for building core muscle and upper-body strength, balance awareness and flexibility.

TRY IT: OM Factory, omfactorynyc.com; Aerial Yoga, aerialyoga.co.za

Become a poleholding human flag JOHANNESBURG, LONDON & NEW YORK

Strip away the image of

sashaying showgirls in platform shoes: to slide effortlessly up and down a metal pole, you need to be as strong as a firefighter.

Classes combine sexy dance routines, groundwork, twerking and hip and head rolls often called ‘flow’, with pole fitness, where specific moves are linked as students climb the pole.

“You don’t really notice or mind how incredibly hard what you’re doing is because you’re too busy having fun,” says Deb Roach, disabled international pole dance champion and teacher at the London Dance Academy. “Pole dancing promotes girl power in a big way. Body confidence soars as regular participants explore both their femininity and their strength.”

WHAT WORKOUT? You’ll develop upper body strength and core strength from lifting and climbing, solid abdominals from inverting and floor work, and toned bottom and legs from high kicks and drop splits.

TRY IT: London Academy Of Poledancing, laphq.co.uk; Vertical Vixen, verticalvixen.co. za; New York Poledancing, nypoledancing.com

“You don’t really notice or mind how incredibly hard what you’re doing is because you’re too busy having fun,” Deb Roach, London Dance Academy

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SEAT 1A | Health & Beauty

Clown around JOHANNESBURG & LONDON

If you’d like to swing but find yoga too slow, then hit the flying trapeze at a circus class.

“Circus training, whether it be trapeze, tightrope, juggling or acrobatics, benefits both the body and the mind. It’s a great choice of exercise as it explores physical capabilities that are very natural to people, whether it be hand-eye co-ordination, hanging body weight or limb-to-limb mobility,” says Glen Stewart, director of training at the National Circus School in London.

WHAT WORK OUT? Trapeze helps muscular development for the arms and back, and tightrope helps core stability and develops precision and balance, says Glen.

Acrobatics develops the whole body and juggling works core strength, enhancing postural control.

TRY IT: National Circus School, nationalcircus.org.uk; Circus Warehouse, circuswarehouse.com; Sky Dance Studio, skydancestudio. co.za

Vault through city streets DUBAI , LONDON & NEW YORK

Street furniture, including walls,

Easy Trapeze A circus class at London’s National Circus School.

benches, fences and steps, becomes your gym equipment when you practise the urban sport of parkour.

"Parkour is a holistic training practise, which uses the whole body to run, jump, climb, spin, roll, vault and perform numerous other movements to

move through your environment,” says James Adams, coach at Parkour Generations London.

“It encourages exploration of the environment around you and to find your own personal challenges to overcome within that environment.”

WHAT WORKOUT? Parkour

builds confidence and provides a great workout for every muscle group as you scale walls, bound over gaps and flow through intricate routes, says James.

TRY IT: Parkour Generations, parkourgenerations.com; UAE Parkour, uaeparkour.com; New York Parkour, nyparkour.com

and you will be better at remembering facts, faces and names. Though you may feel groggy after waking, this length includes slow-wave deep sleep.

NAPPING BY NUMBERS

Optimise your exercise and general health with prime-timed shut-eye

Urban Adrenaline Parkour Generations, London.

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20 The number of minutes of nap time it takes to boost alertness. Non Rapid Eye Movement (NREM) sleep makes it easier to awake without feeling groggy.

60 Sleep for this many minutes

90 The full cycle: This number of minutes includes lighter, deeper and REM sleep.

Improved emotional and procedural memory and increased creativity occur, minus the groggy feeling.

4–7–8 Can’t get to sleep?

Breathe in through your nose for four seconds, hold your breath for seven seconds, and exhale through your mouth for eight seconds, repeatedly until you begin to feel relaxed. This studied combination of numbers effects the brain and slows the heart rate.

Health & Beauty | SEAT 1A

Get a hit from boxing JOHANNESBURG

Remember how hard Rocky had to train before a match? By boxing you increase your overall fitness, reduce stress and learn self-defence. Matt Garcia set up a special ‘Get Fit Not Hit’ boxing class at his London gym, Total Boxer, for those who want to boost their fitness, without the potential for a black eye.

“Through shadow-boxing, pad work with our excellent boxing coaches, various punch

bags, circuit training and plenty of encouragement, we help our students build stamina and learn a fantastic, fun and challenging sport,” says Matt.

WHAT WORKOUT? Boxing develops your overall fitness through a combination of muscle toning, all-over body strength and excellent cardiovascular workout.

TRY IT: Total Boxer, totalboxer. com; Randburg Boxing Club, www.randburgboxingclub.co.za; Church Street Boxing Gym, csboxinggym.com

If The Hit Fits A class at London’s Total Boxer

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SEAT 1A

FASHION Style news & tips from fashion’s new frontier

Fashion Forward Creative collaborations, new boutiques, and emerging style stars – 2015 is shaping up to be the most innovative year to date for African fashion industries.

WORDS

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HELEN JENNINGS

Spring Chic Feminine minimalism

by Senegal’s Sophie Zinga

Fashion | SEAT 1A

S

tyle from and inspired by the continent continues to garner interest worldwide.

Here’s the low-down on ten of the most buzz-worthy names, trends, initiatives and openings forging Africa’s sartorial landscape right now.

Woollen Wonder

Sweetest Taboo iamISIGO’s androgynous Taboo Collection (Below left) Stitch Up Nicholas Coutts is South Africa’s rising star

Nicholas Coutts, Designer Nicholas Coutts has been making his own loom-spun textiles since he was a young boy growing up in Cape Town.

A recent graduate of the city’s Design Academy and the 2013 Elle Magazine Rising Star award winner, he’s had a successful capsule collection at Mr. Price and shown at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Africa. Take note because his soft, woollen arts-and-crafts womenswear is destined for imminent greatness.

Boy Meets Girl

Photography © Lakin Ogunbanwo • Simon Denier/SDR Photo

iamISIGO – Taboo, Collection S/S 15 sees a growing trend for culturally engaged, androgynous silhouettes. The likes of Kenneth Ize, Gozel Green and iamISIGO create daring statement pieces that reject pretty or preppy in favour of gender bending, globe-trotting style. Bubu Ogisi of

iamISIGO presents Taboo, her homage to the Wodaabe Fulani tribe whose attire and ceremonies are renowned for their celebration of beauty and sexuality. Hybrid garments including ponchos, skorts and bomber jackets layer to form a nomadic wardrobe in earthy shades of indigo, navy, khaki and black. “The brand is about experiencing both African and Western worlds through a unique sense of style,” Ogisi says. iamisigoonline.com

Senegalese Siren Sophie Zinga, Designer Sophie Zinga was born in Senegal and studied at Parsons The New School for Design in New York. She debuted her eponymous line in 2012 and has presented collections in New York, Lagos and Dakar, where she has her flagship store. “My aesthetic is feminine minimalism,” Zinga explains. “I love African textiles such as pagne tisse and Malian tie-dye and my surroundings influence

much of my work too – in Dakar I’m surrounded by beautiful, fashion conscious African women. I am proud to say that my brand is 100% made in Senegal.” sophiezinga.com

Leading Lagos ALARA, Boutique This year sees the highly anticipated opening of ALARA Lagos. The brainchild of lawyer and entrepreneur Reni Folawiyo, the concept store has been 35

SEAT 1A | Fashion

Photography © Loza Maleombho • Simon Denier/SDR Photo

(Clockwise) Africa Ahead Loza Maléombho of Scouting For Africa; BLKKANGAROO; Osei-Duro (inset); Alara opens in Lagos

Limited have announced their Scouting For Africa shortlist. The initiative selects 11 designers from the continent to showcase their work in Milan in September and in Lagos in December. The lucky ones are AAKS and Monaa from Ghana, Laurenceairline and Loza Maléombho from Ivory Coast, O’Milua and Orange Culture from Nigeria, ART/C from Morocco, Mafrika from Malawi and Maxhosa by Laduma, Pichulik and Simon & Mary from South Africa. Stars of the future one and all.

designed by award-winning architect David Adjaye and will stock the best African and international fashion collections by the likes of Duro Olowu and Maki Oh alongside design objects, a gallery space and restaurant. alaralagos.com

Ethical Chic Osei-Duro, Label In Twi, Osei-Duro translates as 36

'noble medicine.' It’s an apt name for a label that is dedicated to promoting ethical fashion and handcrafted textiles. Maryanne Mathias and Molly Keogh divide their time between their HQ in Los Angeles and production hub in Accra, where they employ female artisans to create rich fabrics using weaving, batik, tie-dye and dip-dying techniques. This season’s colourful collection includes silk

crepe de chine T-shirts, loose cotton suits, linen tank tops and crochet tunics plus totes, clutches and brass jewellery.

First launched in 2009, OseiDuro is now stocked worldwide. oseiduro.com

Africa In Vogue Vogue Talents, Designers To Watch Vogue Italia and the International Business Consortium Nigeria

Privy To A Party BLKKANGAROO, Label BLKKANGAROO was born out of partying, as co-owner Seye Ogunlesi isn’t afraid to admit. “It was the summer of 2012, we went to the Afropunk festival in New York and hustled our ‘If lost return to the Motherland’ slogan T-shirts from our backpacks,” he recalls. “We danced, drank and sold a bunch of tees!”

Fast-forward to S/S 15 and alongside Emmanuel Obayemi

Fashion | SEAT 1A

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Fashion | SEAT 1A

Africa’s biggest fashion weeks, has recently launched a e-commerce website bringing together some of the best designers across the continent.

AFI Privé offers a curated selection of pieces by the likes of Accra’s Christie Brown, Johannesburg’s David Tlale, Lagos’ Ituen Basi, Mozambique’s Taibo Bacar and Nairobi’s Kiko Romeo for sale online and also hosts exclusive pop up events. afiprive.com

Young And Dope

Photography © Simon Denier/SDR Photo

(Clockwise) Rising Stars AFI Prive stocks clothes by designer David Tlale; Vogue Talents brand AAKS bags, Young Designer Of The Year Rich Mnisi

and Nick Bahizi, BLKKANGAROO offers up its first unisex collection of crop tops, baggy T-shirts, kaftans, drawstring pants, leather pouches and rope sandals. The emphasis is on hyper-reality prints and sporty shapes inspired by the trio’s travels.

“We have imagined the BLKKANGAROO Express, a yellow danfo bus that starts off in Lagos and makes stops in Brixton, Brooklyn, Kingston and Bahia. We’re fascinated by cultural exchange, style and diversity.” All aboard! blkkangaroo.com

Look, Love, Buy AFI Privé, Shopping Africa Fashion International, the organisation behind South

Oath, Label A new name in Johannesburg, LISOF graduate Rich Mnisi won the AFI Young Designer Of The Year 2014 award and now heads up Oath alongside art director Shane Childs. The duo are becoming the go-to for “very young and dope” pop cultureinspired men’s and womenswear and aren’t afraid of bold prints or risky references. Think Rick Owens meets Muhammad Ali. The label was also recently invited to show at the inaugural SA Menswear Week in February. oathrm.com

Downtown Duo William Okpo, Label Lizzie and Darlene Okpo look set to go global this year, having been named among Forbes’ 30 Under 30 List for 2015. The sisters dedicated their NY-based womenswear brand after their father, who moved to the US from Nigeria in the 1970s, and take inspiration for their off-kilter, downtown designs from his snazzy dress sense. They also collaborate with Solange Knowles on the singer’s Puma collections, coming up with super-bright trainers together.

Better run fast to keep up with these two. williamokpo.com

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COVER STORY

WORDS ROCKY CASALE PHOTOGRAPHY

JONATHAN PERUGIA

London is one of the world’s most dynamic cities, renowned for its ability to adapt and evolve to changing tastes, where today’s run-down neighbourhood is tomorrow’s centre of cool. Wings takes a closer look at three areas in the capital where the transformation is already well underway

G

entrification comes with the territory in global mega cities like London, Europe’s largest Metropolitan area and one of the richest cities in the world by GDP. As one neighbourhood reaches its zenith of cool and costliness, another starts trending – a phenomenon made conspicuous by cute coffee shops and cheaper rent. And predictably enough, housing remains a chronic problem; city councils estimate that the capital needs to build a further 526,000 new homes to keep up with population growth, which is expected to exceed nine million by 2021.

But for some, cool trumps necessity. In London’s recent history, places like Islington, Hoxton, and Shoreditch were the darlings of young professionals who moved in and attracted hipster-chic business. The cutting edge doesn’t stay sharp for long, however, and now that these places are seen as being out of touch with the grit and edge that made them desirable in the first place (and they became pricier than many can afford), areas such as Brixton, Peckham and Kings Cross are on the rise instead. It’s in places like these that you can watch urban renewal happening before your eyes.

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COVER STORY

KINGS CROSS

Urban regeneration, extraordinary architecture and public spaces

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Cool Quarters | COVER STORY

Left Talkin’ Bout My Regeneration The Kings Cross area is undergoing major urban transformation Moveable Feast The sophisticated St. Pancras Renaissance London Hotel opened in 2011

T

he award for the biggest display of public works goes to Kings Cross, a major London transit hub. The neighbourhood has always been one of London’s most fascinating places, famous for being the crossroads of shipping, transit, canals, and the complex of 19th-century brick buildings that supported the movement of goods and people. But for decades, many of the area’s buildings and its acreage of disused tracks sat in decay and ruin. The decision to move the Eurostar train to St. Pancras lent some momentum to the cleaning up of the neighbourhood, but only in the last three years has Kings Cross truly become a Goliath in the arena of major urban renewal projects. It’s a huge public undertaking, encompassing 67 acres, which will be developed into 50 new buildings, ten new public squares,

20 new streets and 26 acres of open space; and the restoration of 20 historic buildings and structures is planned or underway.

Some projects here are already complete and open – like the Granary complex, where the University Of The Arts moved to in 2011, bringing with it hoards of creative art and fashion students. A popular coffee roaster and restaurant, Caravan, also became a tenant. At the other end of the Kings Cross site, next to the Eurostar complex, is the St. Pancras Renaissance London Hotel inside the iconic Midland Grand Hotel designed by George Gilbert Scott, which also opened in 2011 (Euston Road, marriot.co.uk/ st.pancras). This urban landmark hotel is home to eateries such as Chef Marcus Wareing’s British brasserie and bar, The Gilbert Scott; and there’s also trendy trainspotting haunt The Platform Cafe, where you can enjoy a cocktail on the 43

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Facing page Grain Training The University Of The Arts occupies an old granary building Left Northern Soul The boutique Great Northern Hotel houses chic eateries, such as Mark Sargeant‘s Plum + Spilt Milk Below left Word Spreads Specialist businesses are springing up in response to the area‘s gentrification

In the last three years, Kings Cross has truly become a Goliath in the arena of major urban renewal projects terrace and watch the trains come and go on the tracks below. After £14 million in renovations, the neighbouring Great Northern Hotel (Kings Cross St. Pancras Station, gnhlondon.com/London) also reopened with modern interiors to contrast the building’s curved Italianate exterior. The building’s renovations attracted new bars and restaurants, too, like the hotel’s Snug bar which occupies a little space of real estate next to the hotel offering views over St. Pancras International Station’s glass roof; and Plum + Split Milk, led by Chef Mark Sargeant, which celebrates British ingredients, and offers an elegant and innovative spin on classic regional recipes.

Peter Bishop, the former director of Design For London, who played a major role in negotiations on the Kings Cross project, says that the new area has “to feel like a piece of London” to achieve “a social mix”, and to create influence that surpasses its boundaries and “to be a public bit of London”.

Planners are working to satisfy this hope, and perhaps one of the most unique and green public initiatives is the Kings Cross Pond Club project. This 40-metre natural bathing pond located between building sites in the heart of the Kings Cross redevelopment project will offer a unique urban swimming experience. Ooze architects Eva Pfannes and Sylvain Hartenberg and the artist Marjetica Potrč are behind this bold installation, which aims to create a conversation about how nature and the urban environment live side by side. The pond will accommodate over 100 bathers, who can walk among submerged water plants, and be surrounded by tall grasses and

SEE THE SITES KINGS CROSS AREA GUIDE This comprehensive website offers a fitting welcome to the neighbourhood and is an excellent resource for those who know little or nothing about the area’s past, present or future. kingscross.co.uk

LOCAL LISTINGS Another comprehensive guide to all things Kings Cross is Time Out’s guide on where to eat, drink, shop, party and spend your time leisurely. The guide’s events section is particularly informative. timeout.com/london/things-to-do/ kings-cross-area-guide

METRO METAMORPHOSIS Updated regularly and weekly, this blog documents all that’s trending and in the news about urban redevelopment and planning in the neighbourhood. kingscrossenvironment.com

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PECKHAM

Artists, galleries and multicultural sophistication

Peckish In Peckham?

When you’re tired from traipsing the galleries. try one of a range of great restaurants Right Portraits Of Peckham The South London Gallery, part of a thriving arts scene

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oving south of the Thames, Peckham is also experiencing great changes. Could renewal in this south London enclave have been sparked by the opening of Frank’s Campari Bar, on a neighbourhood multi-storey car park? Whatever prompted this shift in focus to Peckham, recent years have witnessed a migration of businesses, people, and especially art galleries, that could no longer tolerate the skyrocketing prices of east London.

And the recent addition of a new station square on Queens Road, which includes improved infrastructure in terms of its entrances and elevators, will certainly only add to the area’s accessibility.

Councillor Mark Williams, cabinet member for regeneration, Southwark Council, suggests that the ongoing improvements in Peckham will ultimately lift up the whole of the neighbourhood. “The station improvements, new café and new plaza all add to the regeneration of the local area,” he says. Speaking at the unveiling of the station

improvements, he pledged: “New shops, homes and offices are opening up as well. As a council, we are committed to securing investment right across our borough – today’s event is a symbol of our ongoing commitment to that goal."

Historically, Peckham was many things: a Roman settlement, a place where King James hunted, and a commercial centre for merchants who wished to avoid the expensive rents in central London. For a time, it was even a stopping point for cattle and herders on their way into the city for sale at Smithfields. Today, it is very much a part of the megalopolis that is London, and home to a wealth of different cultures, including but not limited to Bangladeshi, Caribbean, Chinese and Indian populations. Visit the area and you’ll see a tremendous melting pot of people in the African fruit and vegetable stalls on Choumert Road: vendors scream out what’s for sale on their stalls, and people rove up and down Moncrieff Street browsing bedding and clothes; or you could try Elm Grove, where leather goods and jewellery shops are plentiful. And increasingly among this lively picture, you can see the newest immigrants – university kids and hipsters who have

Recent years have witnessed a migration of businesses, people, and especially art galleries, that could no longer tolerate the skyrocketing prices of east London

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Peckham’s transformation is not so much about recasting grand urban designs, as with the projects at Kings Cross. It’s about taking what was already in place and giving it a scrub and polish, and a second chance to shine relocated here from all over gentrified central and east London.

Peckham’s transformation is not so much about recasting grand urban designs, as with the projects at Kings Cross. It’s about taking what was already in place and giving it a scrub and polish, and a second chance to shine. More than anything, Peckham seems to be attracting a clutch of galleries and cultural spaces to the neighbourhood. The Hannah Barry Gallery (4 Holly Grove; hannahbarry.com) is a contemporary art gallery exhibiting artists like the 2012 British Library artist in residence, Christopher Green. The gallery works closely with Bold Tendencies (Floors 7-10, 95A Rye Lane; boldtendencies.com), a non-profit art summer project in a multi-storey car park, currently into its eighth year. The Bosse & Baum on Copeland Road (133 Copeland Road; bosseandbaum.com) shows contemporary works in its large white gallery housed in a pitched-roof attic space; The Sunday Painter Gallery (12-16 Blenheim Grove; thesundaypainter.co.uk), smaller in scale than Bosse & Baum, shows a good roster of emerging and established contemporary artists; and The South London Gallery (65-67 Peckham Road, southlondongallery.org), founded in 1891, has an international reputation for its contemporary art exhibits and live events.

Beyond the gallery scene, Peckham is drawing in fantastic restaurants, cafés, and shopping. For Thai street food, there is The Begging Bowl (168 Bellenden Road; thebeggingbowl.co.uk), which dares to move beyond green chicken curry and offer dishes like stir-fried pork belly with sweet long beans. For exemplary coffee, fresh baked goods, and free WiFi, try Anderson & Co (139 Bellenden Road; andersonandcompany.wordpress.com), on Bellenden Road.

These days Peckham residents are falling in love with Pedler (58

Peckham Rye, pedlerpeckhamrye.com). Set up by Peckham-loving locals, the restaurant serves breakfast, brunch, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner and the dishes are always interesting, with a whimsical twist. There’s tempura broccoli with cheese fondue and chicory and frizzle chicken with avocado, sweet loaf, parmesan, and 'attitude' sauce.

For a bit of shopping, look for Threads (186 Bellenden Road), a modish vintage shop owned by mother and daughter team, Jane and Tara Postma. Want a traditional Sunday roast, good beer and clean English lodgings? Head to the The Victoria Inn (77-79 Choumert Road; victoriainnpeckham.com), which delivers on all counts.

SEE THE SITES PECKHAM FEELING PECULIAR Established in 2014, this Tumblr chronicles all the major local news for Peckham and neighbouring Nunhead. The Peckham Peculiar also produces print editions every other month. peckhampeculiar.tumblr.com

@peckhamvision A consortium of businesses, artists, residents and locals chat on this Twitter feed, where they discuss and post information about the area's past and present. The feed is photograph-heavy, but packed with local event notices.

PICK OF PECKHAM For a comprehensive guide to things to check out in Peckham, turn to Time Out’s guide.

There is also a handy link about Peckham’s farmer’s market that also serves Dulwich and Camberwell residents. timeout.com/london/things-to-do/ peckham-area-guide

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The Art Of Survival The South London Gallery dates back to 1891

Cool Quarters | COVER STORY

Above Local Produce Pedler, Peckham‘s stylish diner, was set up by a team of local residents Left Multi-mart Rye Lane is a truly mutlicultural area, with proprietors hailing from 20 or more different countries Setting the Bar Residents flock to CLF Art Cafe aka The Bussey Building for live music, banh mi and cocktails

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COVER STORY

BRIXTON

Market magic, street food and Electric Avenue

Brixton Brunch Brixton market is an established foodie Mecca Right Meet Market Brixton‘s Cornercopia market diner

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et for London locals who love the city’s dynamic food scene, Peckham is a mere flash in the pan when compared to Brixton. This south London district is gentrifying dramatically, on account of its access to London’s Victoria Line train connecting it with central London, and for its fabulous and flamboyant markets, though some independent businesses are under threat. Before it became the stomping ground of young professionals and culinary aficionados, Brixton was, and to some extent still is, a thriving multi-ethnic community with large African and Caribbean populations. Historically, back in the 1920s, the neighbourhood had a booming middle-class London community, and was home to markets, pubs, department stores, and cinemas. Over time, the neighbourhood fell into deep decline, and was a locus of public unrest throughout the 1980s and 1990s.

Today, Brixton is what some would call a ‘success story’.

Young restauranteurs are attaching themselves to the revival of Brixton’s markets to establish themselves and take advantage of the bounties and energy of the neighbourhood’s robust food trade. Like Peckham, Brixton is also reviving its existing infrastructure. The neighbourhood market, which began on Atlantic Road and expanded to Brixton Road, was built way back in 1870. The market expanded again to Electric Avenue in the 1880s. Its fortunes later changed, and it was sold

Like Peckham, Brixton is also reviving its existing infrastructure

in 2008 to a private developer, who planned to tear it down and build a 10-storey, privately owned residential block. A public outcry resulted, and the markets were eventually declared “historically significant” by the Department Of Culture, and were granted the protection of Grade II listed buildings status.

According to Oliver Russell, head of property acquisition at Charles Russell, LLP,“People moving to Brixton include younger professionals moving out of the ‘prime’ areas in pursuit of more space and a better lifestyle. There are also those who see it as investment potential. Smaller flats in Brixton and similar areas are becoming increasingly attractive to first-time buyers, who are looking for a valuable entry onto the property ladder in a place that is relatively central.”

Since their reprieve, the markets have become one great stew of creative culinary energy, as well as spaces for designers and artists to peddle their wares. Some of those restauranteurs include Cornercopia (65, Brixton Village Market; brixtoncornercopia.co.uk), which serves tasty and traditional British-inspired fare and even a gluten-free Sunday brunch. Bukowski Charcoal Grill (Unit 10, Market Row; bukowski-grill.co.uk), is the place for some of the best chargrilled BBQ in south London; or check out Honest 51

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SEE THE SITES BRIXTON TO MARKET This online resource is a complete guide to all the shopping outlets, vendors, restaurants, bars and coffee houses scattered around Brixton’s markets, with detailed information about special Sunday markets. brixtonmarket.net

@IheartBrixton For the latest on what’s going on in this culinary Mecca, travellers should follow @iheartBrixton. It’s an especially good Twitter resource for finding posts about new bar and restaurant openings.

WHAT'S ON Time Out’s handy guide also covers the Brixton area. The guide includes a special section covering nearby Brockwell Park. timeout.com/london/things-to-do/ brixton-area-guide

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Whether you’re fascinated by ambitious urban planning, or galleries and a tasty burger are all you need, seeing London from the perspective of its emerging neighbourhoods is an excellent way to gauge where the city is going

Burger (Unit 12, Brixton Village; honestburger.co.uk), which traces its beginnings to the market, selling great burgers and sweet potato fries; it now has locations across London. If it’s pizza you’re after, try a pie from Franco Manca (Unit 4, Market Row; francomanca.co.uk). The lines for a table here can be long, but they move quickly. Wash it all down with a dark and rich coffee from the well respected Federation Coffee (Brixton Village, Coldharbour Lane; federationcoffee.com).

Whether you’re fascinated by ambitious urban planning, or galleries and a tasty burger are all you need, seeing London from the perspective of its emerging neighbourhoods is an excellent way to gauge where the city is going. But no matter where you go in London, things are changing faster than they can be recorded. Today’s up-and-coming district is tomorrow’s gentrified, homogenous urban reality. As creative types push further toward the fringes of the capital in search of cheaper and inspiring real estate, we may one day be visiting Chelmsford for a cronut. But while these intriguing spots are young and flush with the spirit of urban revival, let’s enjoy them with all the zeal that our hearts and purses can afford.

Cool Quarters | COVER STORY

Left Pies ‘N‘ Fries Even Brixton‘s take on fast food is stylish On The Move Catch these areas while you can. ­Change happens fast in London

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COVER STORY | Cool Quarters

FACT FILE LONDON How to navigate Europe’s coolest capital GETTING THERE

Arik Air fly daily between Lagos and London Heathrow. arikair.com

GETTING AROUND

The fastest route into Central London is via the Heathrow Express. The journey to Paddington Station takes just 17 minutes. heathrowexpress.com

JOURNEY PLANNING

The Transport for London (TFL) journey planner is an invaluable tool. Input your location and destination and the site will provide journey options, including by foot, bus and tube, plus estimated travel time. journeyplanner.tfl.gov.uk

CITYMAPPER

A multiple prize winner for app of the year, Citymapper is

INDISPENSABLE APPS YPlan From exhibitions to supperclubs and stand-up comedy, find out what’s on tonight and over the next few days and book it directly.

Open Table With this free app, type in your time and party size, and the app will find a restaurant booking nearby from hundreds of London’s best restaurants. A filter allows you to pick cuisine, price range, and browse user reviews.

Street Art London Fire this up while walking around to track down individual pieces of street art. Filter by artist or date. Each location also comes with photos and info about the art and artist.

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an app and website that combines precise journey options, up-to-the-minute rail disruptions and even calories burned to provide the best easy-to-follow routes from point A to B. citymapper.com/London

BY BICYCLE

One of the best ways to get up close and personal with the city is by Barclays bike.

Available 24 hours a day via docking stations dotted throughout the city, bikes are released by paying a £1 per 24hour access fee at the docking stations or online. web.barclayscyclehire.tfl.gov.uk

BY CAB

London’s iconic black cabs are spacious enough for suitcases and prams and come with the added bonus of drivers who know the city like the back of

their hand. Alternatively, Addison Lee is a reliable minicab firm serving most London zones (0844 800 6677, www.Addisonlee.com). There are many licensed minicab firms throughout the city.

Alternatively, download the Uber app to be picked up at any location, any time of day. uber.com/cities/london

BY TUBE

If you’re staying for longer than a day, buy an Oyster card at any tube station or corner shop. Single journeys

by Oyster card are cheaper than buying single journey tickets, and you can use them on buses.

As of 2015 the tube is running a 24 hour service on weekends, on selected train lines. Finally!

WHERE TO STAY Late Bookings The early bird doesn’t always catch the worm. Find lastminute deals on accommodation online. laterooms.com

Home from Home For a truly authentic London experience, stay in someone’s home. airBnB.com

Check Online Unbiased customer reviews are the best route to finding the right hotel for you.

Tripadvisor has extensive reviews for large and boutique hotels in Central London, Peckham, Brixton and Kings Cross. tripadvisor.com

Cool Quarters | COVER STORY

BURGEONING BOROUGHS

While you’re in town, amble around these creative neighbourhoods in other parts of the city

WESTBOURNE GROVE The West London setting of the Notting Hill Carnival and Portobello Market, this neighbourhood has been home to Caribbean, North African and British bohemian communities for decades.

SHOP There’s no better area for vintage designer clothes and accessories. Shop lower cost labels under the Westway at Portobello Market on a Friday (portobelloroad.co.uk/the-market) as well as Kate Moss' favourite Rellik at the end of nearby Golborne Road (relliklondon.co.uk).

For nearly new designer finds, Retro Woman and Retro Men on Pembridge Road always come up trumps (mgeshops.com); and for new designer labels you can’t beat Matches during Christmas and Summer Sale periods (matchesfashion.com).

EAT: You’re spoiled for choice, whether you're after Michelin starred fine dining at The Ledbury (theledbury.com) or jerk chicken and plantain burgers at Boom Burger (boomburger. co.uk). A historically multicultural area, there are so many authentic eateries worth travelling for. Eat exemplary sushi at Notting Hill Gate’s Eat Tokyo (eat-tokyo.co.uk), Italian at Osteria Basilico (www.osteriabasilico.co.uk) or locally sourced British cuisine at Bumpkin (bumpkinuk.com).

DRINK If you’re into great music, visit the Notting Hill Arts Club (nottinghillartsclub.com). For swish cocktails there’s Beach Blanket Babylon (beachblanket.co.uk) and for late night Caribbean fun and frolics, the most atmospheric tiny basement in West London at The Globe (theglobeclub.com).

TUBE STOPS Notting Hill Gate, Westbourne Park

SOHO Although central London’s entertainment district is fast becoming corporate and sterile with each closing of an independent establishment, you will still find plenty of places with old school flavour, and some of the best bars and restaurants in the world.

SHOP Clothes boutiques cater to media types who love their limited edition trainers and urban chic. Soho’s great for menswear. Visit Steve McQueen inspired shop Albam (albamclothing.com) on Beak Street. Machine A on Brewer Street stocks fashion-forward mens and womenswear labels like Raf Simons and Ashish (machine-a.com). The great thing about Soho is you’re just a stone’s throw from Oxford Circus outlets including Liberty and Topshop.

EAT It’s difficult to narrow down recommendations in a neighbourhood with an award-winning restaurant on every corner. We love tapas bar Barrafina on Frith Street where you sit at the bar and watch food cooked in front of you (barrafina. co.uk). Spend Sunday eating dim sum in China Town and rainy days slurping ramen at Bone Daddies (bonedaddiesramen.com).

DRINK It’s a similar conundrum recommending good bars.

There are historical pubs like French House (frenchhousesoho. com) and the Coach and Horses (thecoachandhorsessoho. co.uk) that has a fantastic piano sing-along. For classy cocktails peek behind the unassuming doors of Milk Honey (mlkhny. com) where access to non-members is by reservation only before 11pm.

TUBE STOPS Oxford Circus, Piccadilly Circus

DALSTON This East London neighbourhood is beloved of privileged 20-something creatives but has enough long-standing local presence to not be an insufferable enclave.

SHOP “It’s simple. We only sell what we love,” says Ochuko Ojiri, co-owner of Pelicans & Parrots (pelicansandparrots.com); makes sense to us. Clothes here reference current fashion trends and there’s a rum bar and interiors selection. For high-end fashion labels, there’s LN-CC (ln-cc.com) that has one of the best shop interiors in the East End and a great online shop.

If you prefer true East End market flavour head to Ridley Road Market, off Kingsland High Street and for the full lowdown bookmark The Dalstonist (Dalstonist.co.uk).

EAT Find a great mix of quality Turkish kebab houses and contemporary cafés and brasseries in the area. The twenty year-old Mangal Ocakbasi on Arcola Street serves succulent meaty mains with fresh hot and cold mezze (mangal1.com).

Comfort food lovers can hunker down over poutine, cocktails and burgers at The Advisory (advisoryhackney.com) on Mare Street, named after the Asian Women’s Advisory Centre that was previously on the site.

DRINK Warm weather brings out the party atmosphere. Sit in deck chairs in the open air Dalston Roof Park (bootstrapcompany.co.uk) before slinking off down Kingsland High Street to Dalston Superstore (dalstonsuperstore.com) and Birthdays (birthdaysdalston.com) on Stoke Newington Road.

TUBE STOP Dalston Kingsland Overground.

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ADVERTISING FEATURE

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A valuable lesson for me.

How to sell satisfaction In the early 80s while developing Herald Center, the first vertical mall in Manhattan, I worked closely with one of the world’s best-known retailers, the visionary Stanley Marcus.

Many of you know PRI (Private Resources For Industry) for the work it has been doing in West Africa since 2004 and the business features we have contributed to WINGS over the years.

Since 1995 PRI Project Development has obtained financing for complex projects across industries on five continents as principals and as advisors to select clients.

In 2014, we reached agreement to merge the experience and intellectual property (IP) of the PRI Team with the complementary talent and experience of the Project Capital + Team (PC+). Now PC + is powered by PRI’s core team, with 20 years of know-how behind them.

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Every successful PRI project is an interesting story, full of challenges that had to be overcome. Most of the projects were in countries where we didn’t speak the language and had to rely on trusted intermediaries to communicate with our Client.

I always remember Stanley saying: “No matter what you sell, you’ve got to sell satisfaction”. Impeccably prepared projects provide satisfaction to all stakeholders.

Between 1985–1995, while developing pioneer low and middle-income housing and retail projects in urban neighborhoods, like Harlem and the South Bronx, I learned that it is possible to attract investment to projects in difficult neighborhoods, as long as we can prove there is a market for what we propose.

Two decades of firsts 1995: When I founded PRI my vision was to develop projects on behalf of select Clients in the Former Soviet Union and attract Investment, in spite of negative perceptions and economic crises in the region, provided there was an obvious market for the Client’s products or services.

We can claim many firsts. Among them: Mazeikiu Nafta Refinery in Lithuania, the first unsecured Eurobond Issue for a State-owned company in the Former Soviet Union, the conversion of Central Telegraph in Moscow to a telecoms company; Banka Agricola in

Romania- growing a credit card division resulted in sale to a European bank; the restructuring of Skoda Steel in Czech Republic and the financing of Baskan Gida in Turkey, the first hazelnut processing company to go to capital markets. We also completed a complex shipping transaction for Projector in London and arranged to sell fr8 to a European buyer. In Nigeria, among other projects, we developed and negotiated financing for GZI, the first beverage can factory, which is now onto its third plant in Africa.

The future Project Capital + will develop projects that people need and replace imports. In the process, we will develop local talent and create examples for others to follow.

There is a lot of economic development waiting to happen in West Africa. As Jim Rouse said: “What ought to be, can be” Thank you for reading Victor Politis Chairman PC+ victor@projectcapital.nl

Our experience is global Our focus is West Africa

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FEATURE | Alternative Adventures

Alternative adventures WORDS EMMA FORREST

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Game safaris and Marrakech markets...

Africa-savvy explorers have been there and done that. Travellers want to explore more ‘real’ sides of Africa, and these alternative tour companies are taking them there.

Alternative Adventures | FEATURE

© Victor Politis

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frica is so much more diverse than most travellers ever discover. All too often, both international and African visitors fly in to a safari park to take photos of the Big Five on a staged game-tracking tour, wine and dine Western-style at a luxury lodge, or languish on a beach at a secluded resort without really getting to grips with their destination.

Now, however, things are beginning to change.

The World Travel And Tourism Council (WTTC) announced in 2012 that Africa’s international tourism arrivals grew from 37 million in 2003 to 63.6 million with a strong increase in arrivals to destinations including Cameroon and Sierra Leone.

Similarly, the Adventure Travel Trade Association (ATTA) reports in its Adventure Tourism Market Study that the global adventure tourism

market is worth $263 billion annually, which is a massive increase since 2009, when it was worth US$89 billion. Not only is this market growing, the association argues, but attracting the adventure traveller is also key to qualitative regional tourism growth – these individuals stay in destinations longer, and more of their spending remains in the local community.

So let’s take a look at this emerging ‘new breed’ of tour operator – offering alternative trips that allow a more meaningful engagement with the host country, often thanks to the guides’ personal relationships with locals. These thoughtfully conceived experiences give travellers access to untapped parts of more of some of Africa’s most amazing countries.

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FEATURE | Alternative Adventures

The Tastemakers

T

he world’s only Africa-focused, digital travel destination for the modern jetsetter, TastemakersAfrica is an app that offers insider-curated trips for an ‘Afropolitan’ experience.

Travellers can use the app to book VIP experiences at the continent’s coolest restaurants, nightclubs and hotels. They can also join a small group trip hosted by the founding team, or have the Tastemakers Concierge service create a bespoke itinerary of exclusive experiences.

WHO? Multi-award-winning entrepreneur Cherae Robinson is the founder and CEO of Rare Customs, the travel company that launched the app. Through

Top, and inset Cherae On Top Cherae Rae, founder and CEO of Rare Customs; at the lighthouse in Jamestown Taste Of Africa Tastemakers Africa will help you find vibrant adventures off the clichéd track

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her network of creatives, entrepreneurs and well-connected fixers, she’s able to “embed” travellers in the destinations.

“Whether it’s VIP Access to a concert, or a luxury beach house with a private chef, these small personal touches make a world of difference.

When we leave the cities to explore natural wonders, we help our travellers to focus on their connection to the earth, sustainability, and on the unique heritage of the people.”

WHY? “By carefully selecting a broad range of cities, we think we can transform global perceptions of Africa through travel. The second is empowering the local hospitality and tourism industry. There are a number of local city blogs, traditional tour operators, and individuals doing amazing things in the travel space; but unfortunately, the global travel industry still has Africa in the ‘safari box.’”

TOP TRIP April’s adrenalin-fuelled #Namibianspring trip starts in Cape Town and takes in a sand-skiing excursion from Swakoplund, a journey on the Desert Express train across the Namib desert, a balloon ride over red dunes at Sossusvlei and also includes a tour of Windhoek’s hottest nightspots. tastemakersafrica.com

Alternative Adventures | FEATURE

“More people are looking to step outside of the bubble of the luxury lodges for at least a portion of their trip to seek these genuine once-in-a-lifetime experiences”

Once In A Lifetime Escape + Explore offer to take you on out-of-the-ordinary, three-to-five-day African holiday experiences

Active African Explorers

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Get Up, Stand Up Hit the beach with Escape + Explore‘s Stand Up Paddle tours

scape + Explore offers “mind-blowing” three-to-five-day adventures to bolt onto more traditional African holiday experiences, including an ice-cream-van road trip and a triathlon on South Africa’s Robben Island (including a night’s stay in a cell) and, this year, the first-ever Stand Up Paddle safaris.

WHO? Ingram Casey has been cherry-picking owner-run luxury accommodation for clients since he moved to South Africa 12 years ago. He launched Escape + Explore last year after increasing demand from clients for trips that go beyond the conventional safari. “There is still so much to discover and pioneer,” he tells us. “More people are looking to step outside of the bubble of the luxury lodges for at least a portion of their trip to seek these genuine once-in-alifetime experiences.”

WHY? “The media portrayal of Africa is often negative. Much of the travel to Africa does not help this stereotype, either, as people travel between luxury hubs and wildlife concessions in 4x4s and private planes. If more travellers step outside of the luxury lodges, then they can go home with a completely different opinion of Africa, a far more progressive and accessible destination than they ever imagined.”

TOP TRIP A Private Cape tour in a customised AUV (Adventure Utility Vehicle), with a dedicated driver, guide and even a gastronomic ‘pantry’, so you can travel at your own pace. Surfboards, paddle-boards, mountain bikes, new wetsuits and kids’ toybox are included. escapeexplore.com

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FEATURE | Alternative Adventures

Overland Adventurers “If you really want to see Africa you have to experience the Africa of the open road, as it really is, not how we romanticise it or wish it to be”

Top Culture Club From Here 2 Timbuktu encourages proper engagement with cultures

© iStockphoto.com

Right Cameroon Connection Explore sites such as Douala Cathedral on your overland tour Below Sun, Sea And Senegal A unique three-week encounter with a different side of Africa

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verland travel company From Here 2 Timbuktu offers off-the-beaten-track journeys hosted by local communities, taking travellers to places that tourists can’t access without a specialist guide. Their experienced and resourceful guides take guests on explorations of countries including Cameroon, Mali, Mauritania, Morocco and Senegal.

WHO? Guy Lankester set up From Here 2 Timbuktu in 2008, after travelling independently through West Africa and falling in love with its vibrancy and colour. “African travel tends to concentrate on animals, wildlife and landscapes and often the most interesting and colourful side of Africa – the people and cultures – is missed

out,” he says. “You can only really understand Africa if you spend time with the people. If you really want to see Africa, you have to experience the Africa of the open road, as it really is, not how we romanticise it or wish it to be.”

WHY? “Overland trips help you to really get beneath the skin. You have to rely on the African community at all times to get you through. You are really travelling, and a traveller does not survive by forcing his own culture on the world s/he is travelling through. You survive by giving yourself over to the hospitality of the world you are in, and trusting it."

"We tend to drop into places by plane these days, which makes us feel that we are going to another planet, or a place not connected so much to our home country. When you go overland you see the differences between peoples are small, they change slightly as you go, but essentially, we are all, to coin a Cameroonian phrase, “same same but different”.

TOP TRIP The three-week Sahara Overland starts in the UK, and takes a small group by 4x4 through France and Spain, then over to Africa where the landscape changes as they drive, camp and meet different communities across Morocco, Western Sahara, Mauritania and Mali. fromhere2timbuktu.com

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Alternative Adventures | FEATURE

Cultural Encounters

N

ative Eye offers intense, involved, sensitively-organised cultural encounters with indigenous groups who often rarely have contact with outsiders, in countries including Angola, Liberia, Nigeria and Benin. It recently led the first trip by a British company to the Tibesti Mountains in northern Chad.

WHO? Jim O’Brien set up the company in 2013 to offer trips to amazing destinations that don’t figure on most adventure travel schedules. “We don’t really offer safaris, but focus more on the cultural aspects of the regions that we travel through. West and Central Africa are particularly well suited to this, and are home to an incredible diversity of ethnic groups.”

WHY? “I hope that our trips go some way towards showing that Africa is an incredibly vibrant continent and has a lot more to offer than just the game parks of East Africa. So much attention is placed on conserving wildlife – and rightly so – but less focus is given to the traditions, customs and the people that are threatened. The homogenisation and westernisation of the world makes it a poorer place.”

TOP TRIP The 13-day Tribal Lands Of Cameroon trip, exploring the city of Douala, travelling through lush forests to the tribal highland kingdoms where life hasn’t changed in centuries, and hiking in the remote Alantika Mountains to meet the isolated Koma community.

Top Rare Colour Benin is one of Native Eye‘s unorthodox destinations Right Catch Of The Day You'll eat well on your stay in Ivory Coast Below Liberia Up Close Traditions, customs and art all feature on Native Eye‘s tours

Eye On The Road Jim O‘Brien, founder of Native Eye.

nativeeyetravel.com

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FEATURE | Alternative Adventures

“We enjoy helping people find West African experiences in particular, and travellers get a chance to experience people and places that others seldom get to”

Below left Building Bridges A group‘s trek through Guinea Below Immersive Experiences Local tour guides will seek out the remote fun to be had on Another World‘s trips

F

rom horse trekking to an immersive 56-day drive across Africa, Another World Adventures offers an adventure for everyone by teaming up with knowledgeable local tour operators who are passionate about presenting new places and people to travellers. Their trips in countries including Senegal, Ghana, Benin and The Congo are designed to offer unusual, inspiring, unforgettable expeditions.

WHO? Larissa Clark and Tori Howse conceived Another World Adventures after meeting on a transatlantic tall boat trip and realising most people

would not know their extraordinary journey is a real alternative to taking a flight. Clark once drove from her home in Monrovia, Liberia up through Sierra Leone, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Gambia and Senegal and back again.

WHY? “We enjoy helping people find West African experiences in particular, as it's a region of the continent that is largely under-visited and travellers get a chance to experience people and places that others seldom get to,” says Clark. “We have tours through places like Guinea-Bissau which is an eye-opening place of beautiful people, culture and natural beauty, a real gem. The same goes for Sierra Leone and Liberia.”

TOP TRIP The epic six-week West Africa Overland trip is an exploration of a rarely-travelled route from Ghana, through Burkina Faso, Ivory Coast, Guinea, Sierra Leone and Liberia. anotherworldadventures.com

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© Overlanding West Africa / John Oshacoff

Curated Expeditions

Top All Aboard Another World runs 56-day overland tours

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FEATURE | The Gambia

SPIRIT SEASIDE of the

A journey along The Gambia’s coastline reveals sacred forests bursting with baobob trees, and sacred spots that hold ancient mystical meaning to local communities.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY

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JASON FLORIO & HELEN JONES-FLORIO

The Gambia | FEATURE

O

ur pirogue glides through the reflection of a small white mosque that ripples on the surface of the Niji tributary. We are flanked by lanky royal palms before grinding to a halt on the sandy shore of Jinack Island in northern Gambia.

The Niji tributary (called ‘bolong’ in the native Mandinka language) that separates Jinack Island from The Gambia’s mainland is crossable in only a few minutes by canoe. At low tide, the narrow causeway can even be effortlessly negotiated, yet many Gambians believe crossing this divide could result in the demise of their chosen professions.

As my wife, Helen, and I set off on a six-day, 80-kilometre ramble along the sun-soaked coast of The Gambia’s relatively short coastline, it’s not merely the splendour of the coast and heat of the sun we are after but also its mystical heritage.

Because despite The Gambia’s modernity, sacred forests and pools wrapped in mystic tales continue to hold deep meaning and gravitas with many of the local communities.

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FEATURE | The Gambia

“As my wife, Helen, and I set off on an 80km six-day ramble along the sun-soaked coast of The Gambia’s relatively short coastline, it’s not merely the splendour of the coast and heat of the sun we are after but also its mystical heritage”

As we step onto the enveloping calmness of the tropical paradise Jinack Island, Sonko, a Jinack local, meets us. Perched on a large baobab root, he tells us how a beautiful girl from the island was snatched by a king from the mainland. When the imprisoned girl appears in spirit form in the heat of the battle to rescue her, the king runs in fear and hides in the empty core of a giant baobab tree on the island. The tree closes around him and seals his fate. From then on, no one of power – especially uniformed officers – dare set foot on the island for fear of demotion, or worse.

The next morning, we take a motorised pirogue from Jinack Lodge across the mouth of the River Gambia, over soft Atlantic waves, to The Gambia’s capital, Banjul, to start the southern leg of our walk.

After 12km over white sand, we cut into the ancient seaside settlement of Bakau, now a teeming maze of lanes. Amid the low-rise concrete jungle, we face a dozen or so crocodiles, their mouths ajar.

Their home is Katchikally pool, set in a sacred forest where supplicants have come for centuries to pray and ask for blessings. This pocket of greenbelt would have been laid waste years ago in Bakau’s cement expansion, but, thanks to the spiritual reverence placed upon it, the ancient cotton trees and tangled foliage continues to be seen as a place for spiritual transmission and a bastion of nature.

A night at Ngala Lodge, Fajara – a clifftop boutique hotel a few kilometres south of the crocodile pool – cools our heels. Rather than 70

Banjul In The Crown Arrival at Banjul from Jinack island by pirogue

The Gambia | FEATURE

(left, facing page) Follow That Boat Pirogues crossing the River Gambia. (left) Don’t Worry, Be Happy Smile Gambia Beach Bar at Ghana Town fishing village More Smiles Modou Sonko of Jinack Island

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FEATURE | The Gambia

schlepping heavy backpacks down the beach each day, we have arranged for ‘Buba the Taxi’ to drop and collect them at our nightly lodge stops along the route – six lodges in all. As we scramble down the sandstone cliff steps back to the ocean, we encounter a pied crow facing off vultures for a fish snack. We move quickly in the morning light past Sene-Gambia’s main hotel strip with the many beach palapas, small blue huts that shade juice vendors. The exuberant smiling purveyors of liquefied fruits dash to offer us locally sourced baobab and wonjo (hibiscus). We walk and graze, buying cups of peanuts and corn-on-the-cob roasted by ladies, resplendent in their voluminous head-wraps. The ten kilometres to our next stop, Leo’s Hotel in Brufut Heights, is an easy stroll with a break to submerge in Kotu Creek, a one-metre deep channel that crosses the beach and drains into the Atlantic. 19th-century Sheikh Umar Taal – a “holyman” – also coursed this coastline, making stops for extended prayer and meditation. Sites he

“Amidst the low-rise concrete jungle we face a dozen or so crocodiles, their mouths ajar.

Their home is Katchikally pool, set in a sacred forest where supplicants have come for centuries to pray and ask for blessings”

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The Gambia | FEATURE

“The exuberant smiling purveyors of liquefied fruits dash to offer us locally sourced baobab and wonjo (hibiscus)”

(facing page) Crocs, Monsieur Crocodiles contemplate the locals at Katchikally pool in Bakau. (left) Smoothie Operator ML‘s fresh juice bar at Cape Point Beach.

Dive Right In Leo’s Hotel and restaurant.

communed in, some already deemed sacred by animist practitioners, have since become places of pilgrimage for people from all around west Africa.

At Sannehmentering, Helen points down the beach to a stand of palm and baobab trees. The thick copse of cliffside trees catches the eastern sun and drapes weighty shadows onto the beach, where a group of young boys play football. For many Gambians, football excites its own religious fervour, but for Sheik Umar Taal and his subsequent followers, this copse of trees is a place of godly connection: a natural seat, from where to gaze out across the ocean, and contemplate the infinity. For the next two days we walk an average of 15km a day to Batokunko’s White Horse Residence and then to Gunjur’s Footsteps Eco Lodge. The beaches in this section are wild and raw – but you don’t have to walk far without stopping for chats with fishermen, and ladies collecting clams in the shallows, to not feel alone. On our last day, we meander to our final stop at Kartong, passing 73

FEATURE | The Gambia

Clear Coast Beach between Batokunko and Sangyang point. (below) Frond Memories Ngala Lodge, Fajara

“The beaches in this section are wild and raw – but you don’t have to walk far without stopping for chats with fishermen, and ladies collecting clams in the shallows”

Gunjur fishing beach, where Sheik Umar Taal also spent time. The once humble one-room KenyeKenye Jamango – or ‘sand mosque’ – built there by his followers, has now been supplanted by a recently constructed, giant fairytale-like multidomed prayer hall close to the water’s edge. His followers still come to pay homage, and bathe in the rock pools. Like Katchikally, Kartong’s Folonko pool is primarily a fertility shrine, where people have sought help for their problems for generations. On Friday and Monday mornings, female elders pray for those wishing to have children, reverse bad fortune, and for local wrestlers going to battle. Helen and I hand our offering of kola nuts, salt, and candles to Madam Touray – who leads the pool ladies. Prayers are made for our safe onward travel to Sandele Eco Retreat 3km away, under whose brick-domed lodge we’ll rest and meditate in a horizontal position for the rest of the weekend.

Book flights to Banjul at Arikair.com

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The Gambia | FEATURE

(clockwise, from top left) Shine On Sunshine beach bar owner, Sambuyang Special Offering Madam Touray, who presides over the Folonko sacred pool at Kartong.

Seaside Snacks Cockle collectors near Gunjur Shore Thing Seedy, manager of the Nemasu Eco-Lodge, Gunjur

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FEATURE | Unite 4 West Africa

Coast is Clear Traditional pirogues on the Senegalese coast

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Unite 4 West Africa | FEATURE

WEST AFRICA UNITED F Larissa Clark, a co-founder of Unite 4 West Africa, is working with partners across the region to dispel myths and travel fears for visitors to West Africa while supporting some inspiring grassroots efforts

© Liz Johnson

WORDS LARISSA CLARK

or anyone that has had an opportunity to visit West Africa, or is perhaps even on an Arik Air flight there right now, I’ll start by saying: “Lucky you!” We all know the countries of West Africa for being friendly, beautiful, exciting and colourful places where hospitality rules and where adventure and cultural experiences lay around every corner. Those of us lucky enough to have lived or travelled in the region will have made great friends, had amazing experiences and shared incredible stories, inspiring others to visit the countries that we hold so close to our hearts.

However, visitors to the region don’t just create their own great memories, but also build up a country’s tourism industry, helping to fuel a powerful engine of development, driving employment, supporting economic growth and helping to alleviate poverty. Visitor numbers to West African countries had been increasing year on year in recent times. Liberia and Sierra Leone are great examples of this, where over a decade of

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FEATURE | Unite 4 West Africa

Easy Living A camp by the Senegal River visited

by Overlanding West Africa

“Through Unite4WestAfrica we hope to shine a bright light on the amazing things to do and see in West Africa, with the objective of showing the positive side of the region to counter negative, misinformed perspectives created by generalised media coverage” Thomas Armitt of West Africa Discovery

peace had started to put the palm-lined beaches and their unique cultural histories back on the maps of visitors around the globe. As an example, Ambrose N Wiagbe, director of tourism at Liberia’s Ministry Of Information, Culture And Tourism, told us only last year that the number of visitors entering with a tourist visa was up by 70 per cent.

“Many of them have read about the history of Liberia and are intrigued by president Ellen Johnson Sirleaf. Some have read about our wildlife and rainforest that are distinctive to Liberia. These tourists want to see it for themselves and experience the truth.” It is this same truth that West Africans hope visitors will seek out once again as the battle is won in the fight against the Ebola virus.

© Overlanding West Africa

Alarming figures

Travel to the whole African continent has been hit hard by Ebola despite the fact that the virus has hit only a handful of areas in West Africa. Alarm in the travel market caused by frenetic media reporting, misunderstanding about how the virus spreads and geographical ignorance about where the affected countries are has caused havoc for the many people that depend on visitors for their livelihoods, both directly and indirectly, no matter where on the continent their home country is. At the time of writing, the outbreak had virtually halted all but essential visits to the affected nations of Liberia, Guinea and Sierra Leone while drastically slowing the number of visitors to their unaffected regional neighbours and even countries many thousands 78

of miles away, on the other side of the continent.

Around half of the 500-plus safari operators surveyed

by Safaribookings.com in late September 2014 reported staggering declines in bookings of 20 to 70 per cent, while Reuters reported that the hotel industry as far away as Tanzania had experienced a 30 per cent drop in business, with 2015 bookings down 50 per cent.

Unless things change, the long-term impact for the region is deeply concerning. This was highlighted by the South African ambassador to the United States, Ebrahim Rasool, who told USA Today that jobs affected by cancelled holidays reach far beyond the safari workers: every tourist who visits South Africa generates income for eight jobs, in industries such as transportation, hospitality, restaurants and agriculture.

It was at the time of the media frenzy around the crisis in late 2014 that the campaign Unite4WestAfrica was born. As the fight to rid Liberia, Sierra Leone and Guinea of the dreadful virus pushed on, a group of individuals and businesses from the travel industry came together to unite against the misconceptions of travel in wider West Africa. The aim of the group was to minimise the long-term negative economic, social and environmental impacts of decreased business and leisure visitors to the West African region, and indeed to the wider African continent.

Stay calm and keep travelling

The Unite4WestAfrica campaign was established by four travel organisations: West Africa Discovery, Overlanding West Africa, Barefoot Liberia, and my own organisation, Another World Adventures. It was launched at the World Travel Market in London in November. The organisers joined Honorable Ministers and representatives from Ministries in Nigeria, Ghana and the Gambia to launch it at a press conference titled: How Big Is The Problem Of Ebola In Africa For Tourism?

The event focused on updating editors and journalists about the

Unite 4 West Africa | FEATURE

Left Royal Visit Easytrack Ghana take visitors to the Akwasidae festival Ghana Gliding Fly above the trees with Ghanaparagliding.com

situation, setting a clear picture about countries that have successfully overcome the virus and stressing the ‘it’s business as usual’ message from the countries that have had no known Ebola cases. A primary aim was to try to dispel any myths that are having an immediate impact on visitors, and that might lead to lasting stigma against the region that could damage national economies for years to come.

Over 30 travel and tourism organisations have so far joined the effort, including the Africa Travel Association and a mix of African and international tour operators. They’ve taken to social media with the #unite4westafrica hashtag, and tried to educate their clients and customers, often pointing them towards Eboladeeply.org, an independent digital media project with reliable reporting, for up-to-date news.

“Through Unite4WestAfrica we hope to shine a bright light on the amazing things to do and see in West Africa, with the objective of showing the positive side of the region to counter negative, misinformed perspectives created by generalised media coverage,” says Thomas Armitt of West Africa Discovery. “We want to set a foundation for a positive global outlook towards the West African region and at the same time, raise funds for some exceptional efforts tackling the virus and its impacts on the ground in Liberia, Guinea and Sierra Leone, which have been most affected.”

Alongside the campaign’s awareness raising has been a fundraising effort to support small, high-impact local grassroots initiatives tackling the impacts of the disease in Liberia, Sierra Leone and Guinea.

Donations to the Unite4WestAfrica campaign (which has no operational costs and is run by volunteers) support a selection of these grassroots, non-profit organisations. Each group has been identified as a leader in community awareness, child and orphan support services, education and health services in the most affected countries.

Doing it for the kids

In Liberia, for example, Project Kids Engagement is a perfect example of the Unite4WestAfrica sentiment of uniting to achieve something together. It was kickstarted by human resources professional and 79

© Easytrackghana.com • © Chuck Smith

Bottom right Bright Future A Liberian market bursting with colour

FEATURE | Unite 4 West Africa

Pressing On Members of Unite 4 West Africa take part in a press conference

BEST WESTERN

Top 10 West African Trips For 2015 Leisure travellers looking for an exciting holiday in 2015 will be spoilt for choice. From Nigeria to Senegal, and everywhere inbetween, there are countless festivals and events taking place this year, including a number of boundary-pushing tours for the adventurous at heart. Whether you have one week or six to visit, here’s our Top 10 to inspire you...

© Natalie Morawietz • © Clare Glade Wright

1 mother of two Brenda Moore, and her desire to keep Liberian children academically engaged while schools are closed due to the outbreak. Schools throughout Liberia, Sierra Leone and Guinea were closed indefinitely when the epidemic struck, meaning children faced being thrown backwards academically behind their regional counterparts. Run entirely by local volunteers in Liberia, the project produces and delivers educational packs to the homes of children in preschool and up to the 3rd Grade, along with reading materials to help build their vocabulary and reading skills. Project Kids Engagement has faced many challenges, but impressively, over 3,000 children have received the education packs Brenda and her volunteers put together from materials they buy in local stores and by producing work sheets that they distribute themselves. It’s a simple initiative that’s supported by those who see the need to keep education alive until the region’s schools are reopened.

“I was homeschooling my two kids” Brenda says, “I decided to reach out to other kids in my community. After I started, a few friends joined in, so many stepped up to help.”

Street Child, another of the beneficiaries for Unite4WestAfrica, agree with the need to support education during this crisis, reporting on their website that “the break in the education of over five million children is among the most pernicious impacts of the Ebola crisis and it is vital that, as soon as possible, normality resumes and children are able to return to their classrooms”. Alongside providing essential services to Ebola orphans in Sierra Leone, Street Child has given business support to 903 families in recent weeks, to help them combat the dire poverty levels facing affected communities.

Back in Liberia, inspired efforts to tackle the virus have come from many different places, including the local student-run independent cinema, Kriterion Monrovia, which usually screens art-house movies and organises cultural events. Since the outbreak the group of volunteer students has given its full attention to the activity of spreading public health education and awareness messages to communities, in all Liberian languages and local dialects. They’ve relentlessly taken their awareness campaigns to universities, marketplaces, towns, and villages in 15 counties in Liberia, producing many positive impacts. Pandora Hodge, founder of the Kriterion Monrovia cinema, says: “The truth is, we are all tired, but we will continue to work, to fight, so that we can live, touch and embrace each other as human relations are meant to be.”

That time cannot come soon enough, and when it does, all that those involved in the Unite4WestAfrica campaign hope is that the visitors will also start to return, to experience the magic of West Africa and, in doing so, support the long-term recovery of the most affected nations. “Avoiding the stigmatising of West Africa is essential for the future of travel in this region – we want to share stories of courage, spectacular landscapes and captivating cultures and remind people of all the very many great reasons to pack your bags and plan a visit,” reflects David Oades of Overlanding West Africa. So if you’re well informed and on your way to a part of West Africa now, enjoy your visit – and thanks for playing your part.

Find out more about Unite 4 West Africa online at unite4westafrica.org

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EXPLORE SIERRA LEONE, LIBERIA, GUINEA, IVORY COAST AND GHANA Hop aboard a fully-kitted-out adventure truck and immerse yourself in amazing West African culture, wildlife, beaches, vine bridges, traditional ceremonies, and off-the-beaten track travel.

From £1,150 + kitty, 35 Days, 9 November 2015 overlandingwestafrica.com

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TAKE TO THE SKIES IN GHANA Check out the 10th Easter Paragliding Festival in Ghana’s Kwahu range – easily one of the most unique paragliding events on the planet – as you take a respite from the heat at Cloud Base which is about 2,000ft over launch. Easter weekend 2015: Custom tour packages for this and other fantastic festivals available with easytrackghana.com

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VISIT THE TRIBAL LANDS OF CAMEROON Travel to the heart of a land alive with the traditions and customs of over 250 different ethnic groups, a cultural mix that feels both magical and enchanting. Visit places that are seldom visited by outsiders with an atmospheric train journey, camp with semi-nomadic tribes, hike the Alantika Mountains and discover chimpanzees and gorillas. 13 days from £1,799 26 October 2015 nativeeyetravel.com

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HIT THE ROAD FROM ACCRA TO OUAGADOUGOU Take an action-packed overland trip starting in Ghana and visiting Togo, Benin and Burkina Faso with a group of likeminded, intrepid explorers. You’ll experience fascinating cultures and incredible nature – from voodoo ceremonies, walking safaris visiting hippos and elephants, mountain trekking and learning the rich cultural history of this unique region.

28 days, from £1,150 14 December 2015 anotherworldadventures.com

5

BE INTREPID IN IVORY COAST Ivory Coast is very much back on the map for intrepid travellers after an unsettled period, and this is an exciting trip taking in an eclectic range of cultural highlights in the west of the country, starting and finishing in the lively capital, Abidjan. 12 days from £1,999 14 November 2015 nativeeyetravel.com

Monrovia Runners The Liberia marathon will take place in August 2015

Unite 4 West Africa | FEATURE

Beachy Keen Fishermen on a Ghanaian beach

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HAVE AN ECO EXPERIENCE GAMBIA Over a quarter of Gambia is made up of rainforest, but it also features pristine beaches and the magnificent Gambia River.

Bird-lovers will easily be seduced by this compact country. On a tour upriver, the cries of over 300 species will follow you as your pirogue (traditional canoe) charts a leisurely course through mangrove-lined wetlands and the island of Georgetown.

Footsteps Eco-Lodge starts at £420 per week for accommodation (excluding food, drink and activities). From 1 November to 1 April, book online for two weeks for the price of one. westafricadiscovery.co.uk

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BUILD A COMMUNITY IN SIERRA LEONE Join a small eco-tourism community living on six acres of beach and lagoon-front land adjacent to the John Obey fishing village on the Freetown peninsula, Sierra Leone. Your mission is to help to build a model sustainable community, experience an unforgettable West African beach holiday and help change the perception of Sierra Leone into one that reflects the reality – a beautiful, safe and captivating country. From $320 per week tribewanted.com

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RUN THE LIBERIA MARATHON The 2014 Liberia Marathon was cancelled due to the crisis, but organisers are gearing up for an August 2015 event in honour of those lost to the virus, who served on the frontlines to fight it and those who survived it. Be part of Liberia’s new beginning in this very special marathon event. August 2015 (date tbc), liberiamarathon.com

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RIDE A BARREL IN SENEGAL Experience epic breaks with local surf guide Mbour Mbengue, who’ll take you to his favourite 19 spots on Senegal’s coast. Located on the most Western point of Africa, the nearby mainland peninsula attracts swells from the north, west and south, arguably offering Africa’s largest and most consistent swell window. From €500 for two weeks (The Beginner Surf Lesson Package includes basic dorm accommodation, surf lessons, breakfast, dinner and transfer from airport). westafricadiscovery.co.uk

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DISCOVER NIGERIA Be part of a unique small group tour that encompasses some of the highlights of Nigeria, from Badagry, one of the major slave ports in the Gulf Of Guinea, to ancient emirates that were powerful before Europeans had even set eyes on the continent. This is a trip for those prepared to accept the complexities of life in Africa’s most populous nation, and excited for an introduction to Nigeria's charms. Join a 12-day tour in December 2015, £2,729 undiscovered-destinations.com

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PFL study options include International Boarding Schools, Pathways, Foundations, Undergraduate, Postgraduate

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FEATURE | Travelling With Kids

TOTS

on tour Families with young children need all the rest and recuperation they can get. Wings presents a selection of priceless tips and tricks to help families on the go make the most of their precious holiday time – including the most important tip you’ll ever hear on the subject.

WORDS TATIANA MICHALA

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© iStockphoto.com

Travelling With Kids | FEATURE

Are We There Yet? Children will enjoy a trip if they can visualise the destination beforehand

L

ucas, our bundle of joy, has just turned a precocious year and a half. The fatigue of raising him, working full time and keeping up with a tiresome routine leaves us yearning for our much needed holiday. I catch myself daydreaming: I’m lying on the beach, my hair loose, dipping my feet into the sand and dozing off to the sound of the waves as the scenic sunset fills the horizon. “Wait a minute,” a harsh inner voice interrupts my thoughts. “You’re not that kind of person anymore. You’re the person that people stare at on a plane. You are the person that catches glimpses of rolling eyes because your little brat cannot stay still for more than five seconds.”

For a moment, I feel blue. However, my fellow parents-in-crime, I am determined not to let that happen. In the past year and a half of intense travelling with my child, I have come to realise two things: there is no way my tan line will be even while I’m raising my child, and that travelling with a child can be lots of fun – if you plan ahead.

So here is a short guide based on personal experience and tips from a sample of parents who have travelled with their young families with the minimum of stress. Strap yourself in...

Preflight checks

PACK, BUT DON’T BREAK YOUR BACK While preparing, the golden rule is to minimise your needs. I understand you want to pack that shawl that matches your lovely dress that matches the shoes that match the earrings, but learn to let go. Select a few clothes for every occasion, and do not over-pack unless you want to end up with a broken back. As for the little one(s), here’s your chance to exercise the art of packing smart. If you are travelling with a baby or a toddler, make a list of all the things that form part of your daily routine, starting with bottles, nappies and pumps, all the way to toys and fun accessories.

KEEP CALM AND USE YOUR CARRY ON Remember to use your carry-on bag as a ‘first response’ kit, and fill it

with all the things that you might need while on the go. In her book, The Travel Mamas’ Guide, Colleen Lanin makes another suggestion: “Separate baby’s things among all of your luggage. This way, if a bag gets lost, it’s not the one with all the baby stuff.”

DO NOT BRING THE NOISE “I flew from Prague to the States for the first time when Ayal was eight months old,” says US-born mum Danya Chazan. “Having learned from my mistakes, I can safely say: Do not pack noisy toys, because you will get nasty looks from other passengers – and for a good reason,” she laughs. “Also, rush ahead to book that bulkhead seat to ensure as much space as possible, and carry a small pillow.

Your baby may find it comforting.”

BRING THE TOYS Linda Leder and her one-and-a-half-year-old son travelled from Switzerland to Argentina recently and, although they are used to travelling, this proved to be a challenging long haul. “I would advise parents to book their flights through a travel agent. This got me a comfortable and spacious seat at no additional cost,” she recounts.

“A few days before the flight, I hid some of Raphael’s favourite books and took them out once we were on board. I also bought him a few surprise toys from a dollar store, which he meticulously explored during the flight.”

LET JUNIOR FLY THE PLANE Or at least get them involved. If you are traveling with a small child, let your little traveller prepare his/her carry-on bag. This will give you some time to concentrate on packing, and will encourage your child to become more independent by selecting which toys or books to take on the trip. “Our recent vacation in London with our four-yearold son taught us that family trips are a family affair. Do not forget to let the children in on what is happening,” advise Elena and Andreas Skyrla. “Describe the airport, the flight and the place you are going to visit days in advance. Make your children feel they are an integral part 83

FEATURE | Travelling With Kids

Toss out all your ideas about what a perfect vacation looks like. So what if you don’t get to have dinner by the moonlight in that cute little restaurant you saw online? Adjust! of this amazing adventure that is about to begin.”

FEED THEIR HEADS Ashley Steel and Bill Richards, authors of Family On The Loose agree: “Even more important than preparing the travel logistics, is preparing your children. They will enjoy the trip more if they can visualise the places they will be visiting. You can’t expect them to be excited about seeing a mosque, when they don’t know what it is. And, let’s face it, art without previous exposure can be no fun at all. If you’ve read about the Mona Lisa it is interesting to go and see her. If you stand in line to squint through glass at a painting of a lady that your parents tell you is really famous, it’s going to be miserable (for all of you).”

All aboard

PLAYGROUND IN THE SKY You arrive at the airport hours before your flight. Despite your wishful thinking, you didn’t get much sleep at night. You now find yourself standing in front of the airport’s automatic doors, wondering how you’re going to get through this. Take a deep breath and plunge into the adventure. “Big airports have playgrounds. Seek them out and spend the pre-boarding time there,” advises Linda Leder. “It will help get some steam out of your child, and give you some peace of mind.

Although airlines advise families with children to board first, I found that boarding last was better for me. Raphael was going to spend 13

hours in a plane anyway. Why would I make that longer?”

CARRY A CARRIER “Accept all the help people are willing to offer, both on the ground and during the flight,” says Danya Chazan. “And when you feel the going gets tough, put on a charming smile and ask for a helping hand.” Danya goes on to explain that bringing a carrier on board was a great help. “It gave me a chance to move around while helping baby Ayal fall asleep during the long flight.”

STICK TOGETHER The challenges of travelling with a baby are mostly logistic. When it comes to toddlers and young children, however, parents need to figure out how to keep them busy and calm during the flight. Luckily, there’s one thing that kids of all ages love more than anything on a

TECH FOR TRIPS

Technology to the rescue: Popular apps and videos to help you get through the journey APPS PETTING ZOO BY FOX AND SHEEP (IOS / ANDROID) The cutest and wackiest petting zoo on the market! This lovely app has become extremely successful for a good reason.

ASTROPOLO BY 3ELLES (IOS) This handmade creation will be useful to aspiring little astronauts wanting to conquer space.

VERY HUNGRY CATERPILLAR

BY STORY TOYS (IOS) Watch Eric Carle’s famous caterpillar come to life! Various levels of difficulty make it Ideal for different ages.

© iStockphoto.com

MIXIMALS BY YATATOY (IOS) Create funny animals by mixing their bodies, legs and heads! A handcrafted delight that gets kids to giggle at their creations!

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SERIES & VIDEOS BABY EINSTEIN These famous baby-friendly videos are unique and interesting as they present the world through a baby’s eyes.

PEPPA PIG Peppa is one of TV’s most beloved heroes. Offering short and beautiful everyday stories, Peppa pig may prove to be the ultimate travel companion.

OLIVIA The world’s second most famous piglet, Olivia, is a 6 1/2 year-old dynamo, who believes she can be or do anything

Travelling With Kids | FEATURE

HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS

Kid friendly activities at Arik Air destinations ACCRA Salon Silliness Originally a salon and beauty shop for children under 12 on Noi Fetreke Street, Kidz Cottage has a large safety-conscious playground outside, a cafe, reading room, video games, and activities like arts and crafts days. kidzcottagegh.com

DUBAI Wacky Waterpark In true Dubai style, Aquaventure UAE is over the top which equals unforgettable fun for kids. There are elaborate river rides, a beach, children’s water play area, a shark safari, stingray feeding and slides that whizz through a shark tank. Adults will love it too. atlantisthepalm.com/marine-water-park

© Aquaventure UAE

DAKAR Bouncing Baobobs Accroboabab, a two-hour drive south from Dakar and close to the Bandia wildlife reserve, is a great day trip with kids ages two and upwards. The only park in the world built solely on baobabs, activities include tree climbing, adventure tracks and a zipline. accro-baobab.com

flight. “Without fail, stickers are the most effective travelling companion for toddlers and young children. Don’t forget to take a few blank sheets of paper with you, though rest assured that these stickers will find their way to various remote areas of the plane, including the steward’s shoes,” admits Elena.

what if you don’t get to have dinner by the moonlight in that cute little restaurant you saw online? Adjust! Pretend it’s night time, and enjoy an early dinner with your child there instead. Another thing to keep in mind is that vacation is all about bending the rules and savouring the moment. Implement that philosophy when it comes to your child, too.

DIGITAL BABYSITTING “Never underestimate the power of technology,” adds Andreas. “I am grateful that in today’s world there’s a variety of educational and interactive games, as well as a number of great cartoons, that can help keep our children calm when all else fails.”

SWEET DREAMS “Your children may surprise you with their adaptability and affability when the hold of regular routines loosens,” advises Maureen Wheeler, the author of Lonely Planet’s Travel With Children. So if your child is overexcited and doesn’t want to sleep, don’t fight it! A few extra sweets or a late night won’t do any harm. After all, extra sweets and late nights are exactly the things you expect from your own holiday, so let your little travel companion indulge with you.

Coming in to land

GO WITH THE FLOW After hours of carrying luggage, unfolding intricately designed strollers and listening to an annoying shriek every time your child completes a new game level, you make it to your destination safely (if a bit haggard). Now what? All the parents that helped write this article seem to agree: “Be flexible!”

BREAK THE RULES Toss out all your ideas about what a perfect vacation looks like. So

A LIFE LESS ORDINARY Family trips are a unique childhood memory. Remembering myself as a kid in the back seat of a car or in an aeroplane always brings a nostalgic smile to my face. Travelling offers us a chance to bond with our children and is a priceless opportunity to rediscover the world through their eyes. So smile at the hardships! After all, it’s the journey that counts, not the destination.

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INTERVIEW | Temi Dollface

GQ DUBBED HER THE ‘AFRICAN JANELLE MONÁE’ BUT TEMI DOLLFACE IS FORGING HER OWN UNIQUE PATH AMONG A GROWING NUMBER OF FEARLESSLY INDEPENDENT FEMALE ARTISTS IN NIGERIA. HELEN JENNINGS LAKIN OGUNBANWO DEBOLA FALANA WORDS

M

y dream is to shatter stereotypes and prove that pop music can be both intelligent and experimental. I'm not looking to be a name that's reckoned with only on the alternative music scene, but as an artist who can represent Nigerian music in general, like Fela Kuti did and still does.” These bold words trip off the tongue of Temitope Phil-Ebosie, better known by her deceptively cute stage name Temi Dollface. A rising star in Lagos and beyond, this young singer/songwriter shines bright in the maledominated naijapop scene as much for her retro dress sense as for 86

PHOTOGRAPHY

MAKE UP

“Lagos is a dynamic state full of brilliant and creative minds embracing its untapped potential”

Temi Dollface | INTERVIEW

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INTERVIEW | Temi Dollface

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Temi Dollface | INTERVIEW

“I thought it was about time to do a song that empowers us women; something that highlights how multi-faceted we are.” her defiantly original sound that fuses afrobeat, jazz, hip hop and pop. “I call it drama soul,” she explains. “It is forward-thinking music that bridges continents, cultures and eras. It’s informed by all the music I’m influenced by as well as my love of fantasy and the theatrical.” Citing influences as fa- reaching as Ella Fitzgerald, Pharrell Williams and Earth, Wind & Fire, Temi is part of a strong breed of Nigerian female artists such as Asa, Nneka and The Venus Bushfires who each have their own left-of-centre, socially engaged styles.

Born and raised in Lagos, Temi started writing songs at the age of seven after her church pastor gave her a keyboard. For her, music was a form of personal release. “I was a shy only child. Up against my more eloquent and outgoing peers, I felt that I could say everything I wanted to say about myself through music and what I wore. I spent a lot of time entertaining myself by playing dress-up and creating music. Not a lot has changed.”

She attended boarding school in England and then studied Food Science And Nutrition at the University of Surrey. Meanwhile, she faced her fear of singing in public by taking to the stage at local open-mic nights and intimate gigs. After graduation, Temi went to performance school in London, and was soon signed to a major label. But she was driven to end the contract due to lack of creative control, and decided to head back home.

“Breaking into the scene here wasn’t without its challenges, especially as I’m a woman with a different image and perspective, doing music that defies what’s considered the norm. But I had to dare to start out with people not getting it,” she says. Temi came out strong with 2013’s insanely addictive dance track Pata Pata, the video for which sees her portray a 1960s housewife on a mission to dump her man. “I wanted to parody the idea that consumer products can change one’s life and thought about how household goods used to be marketed to women as a means of allowing them to free up more time to preen themselves for their husbands. I decided to turn this

idea on its head and create products that help cut the man out of your life instead.”

She followed this up with the sweet Mandela tribute ditty Keeper Of The Sun with IBK Spaceshipboi, and along the way, has collaborated with the likes of Keziah Jones, Bez, Ikon and SDC. More recently, she released Just Like That (Story) featuring up-and-coming producer Jopee and Ariaria-style vocalist Maurel. Kicking off with a cheeky nod to Destiny’s Child, the fast-paced beats and brass soon show no mercy. “The song is a commentary on how the love of money can often cause truth to fall silent using the story of two recognisible characters: the spoilt rich kid who thinks daddy’s money makes him invincible, and the gold digger,” she explains.

Temi’s next release will be Beep Beep, a sonic celebration of sisterhood. “I thought it was about time do a song that empowers us women; something that highlights how multi-faceted we are.” This move is a natural one for someone who has always supported her fellow songstresses. “Right now, Yemi Alade is making an impression with her half Igbo/half Yoruba music,” she says. “It’s sad that Asa had to be championed outside before being fully embraced in Nigeria.

However, there is now a gradual shift toward alternative sounds, as the market gets more saturated with mass-produced pop.”

The Temi Dollface live experience is out of the norm, too. A far cry from the tried and trusted sexy diva routine, her gigs take you on a magical journey into the singer’s imagination. “I try to create a colourful, energetic joy ride packed with fanciful, maximalist arrangements and clothes that often do a performance of their own.

I like to deliver another world for my audience to escape into. I am not afraid to go where the music dictates.”

A firm supporter of the local fashion scene, Temi often incorporates Nigerian designers such as Maki Oh and Caven Etomi into her whimsical vintage looks and is currently working on some hush-hush fashion projects of her own. “It's nice to see genuine 89

INTERVIEW | Temi Dollface

Nigerian-rooted fashion making its mark,” she says. “The fashion world is starting to take note of African fashion. We once saw visions of Africana through the eyes of western brands, but now our own fashion is becoming international.”

She’s currently setting up her own music label Awe-Dacious Records and finishing off her much-anticipated debut album, due out this year. When she’s not working hard in the studio, you’ll find her at industry events, boutique hotel bars or pop-up events at The White Space agency. “Lagos is a dynamic state full of brilliant and creative minds embracing its untapped potential,” she muses of her peers – and herself. “It’s a place that has afforded me the inspiration and opportunity to do what I love and connect with the richness of Nigerian music, utilising the traditional to create something new, exciting and original, thereby building on the inroads made by pioneers before me. And now I am blessed that more and more people are showing love for my individualist approach.”

“The song 'Just Like That Story' is a commentary on how the love of money can often cause truth to fall silent” SOUL BROTHERS

Three Nigerian male artists who leave the auto-tune switched off to chime with Temi and the girls

BEZ Bezhiwa Idakula draws on soul, jazz and old fashioned R&B to mesmerise audiences worldwide with his big-band sound. His 2011 debut album, Super Sun, featured the global hit That Stupid Song. Now check out his latest track, There’s A Fire.

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SIJI Based between New York and Lagos, Siji Awoyinka‘s influences range from Roy Ayers to Fatai Rolling Dollar. With songs such as Children Of The Sun and his film Elder’s Corner, which documents Nigeria’s musical legends, Siji goes deep.

SEUN KUTI Fela’s slinky-hipped youngest son is keeping his father’s Egypt 80 band in shape – both stylistically and politically. His third album, A Long Way To The Beginning, fuses afrobeat, hip hop and punk, and doesn’t hold back on the incendiary lyrics.

Coming Soon to Nigeria!

Temi Dollface | INTERVIEW

Nadia Denton’s book is essential reading for anyone who wants to understand Nigerian Cinema … it’s vibrant present state and major potential for future development and enduring global relevance. Joanna Lipper – Director (The Supreme Price) and Lecturer, Harvard University The Nigerian Filmmaker’s Guide to Success covers finance, marketing, exhibition and distribution, in a global context … from [which] emerges not just a new map of African cinema, but a picture of a globallyinterconnected independent cinema with Nigeria as a prominent point of embarkation.

Archie Tait – Head of Workshops, London Film School … an essential reference book for anyone hoping to get even the most marginal insight into the workings of the Nigerian film industry. The second part of the title really emphasises the first part – Nollywood is only one small section of filmmaking by Nigerians both inside the country and in the wider diaspora. Kubara Zamani – Editor, Nubiart Diary Denton has interviewed an astonishing array of professionals working in the Nigerian (and beyond) film industry. The generosity in the wealth of information that these practioners have shared in this book is a rare treat, giving in-depth personal accounts of their trials and tribulations in the tough world of film. Suzy Gillett, First Eleven Films

www.beyondnollywood.com Image Credit: OC Ukeje in Confusion Na Wa Dir. Kenneth Gyang, Nigeria/2013

Encyclopaedic, riveting and accessible, this book is 400+ full colour pages of captivating insights into Nollywood…it is a priceless resource for filmmakers and all round good read. Jon Hughes – Editor, Nigerian Watch

Nadia Denton has been working in the film industry for over 10 years. She has curated programmes at the British Film Institute and Institute of Contemporary Arts and acted as a consultant for film festivals, funding bodies and film schools. She has been featured on CNN and the BBC World Service. Her other publications include The Black British Filmmaker’s Guide to Success: Finance Market and Distribute Your Film. Nadia has a BA in Modern History from St. Hilda’s College, Oxford and is a member of BAFTA.

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AFRICA’S FUTURE CITIES

With the rise of million-dollar tech parks and hub spaces of all sizes throughout the continent, countries including Ghana, Nigeria and DRC are rethinking the landscapes of Africa. ‘Mixed use’, predominantly urban-located centres, with residential, commercial and high-tech groundwork underpin the use of ambitiously designed city spaces.

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© Paolo Brescia OBR, Italy

FEATURE | Africa’s Future Cities

Africa’s Future Cities | FEATURE

WORDS NANA OCRAN

enya’s new ‘technopolis’ or ‘Silicon Savannah’ are tags that are consistently applied to Konza City, a huge government-marketed project that sits in Makueni County, about 40 miles beyond Kenya’s capital, Nairobi. A 5,000-acre science and commercial project, it’s being developed to the tune of $14.5 billion, with a far-flung launch date of 2030. That’s a decade and a half of waiting to see how it might compare with the atmosphere and ethos of Silicon Valley, the San Francisco Bay area of the US, where many of the world’s largest high-tech corporations and tech startups are based.

Set to feature innovation labs, tech offices, financial districts, artificial rivers, mosques and churches, Konza City was initially a miniature-sized model that sat on the desk of Bitange Ndemo, the former permanent secretary in Kenya’s Ministry Of Information And Communications. The task was, and still is, for numerous projects to be developed in the Makueni region.

It’s an interesting prospect, to essentially build a city of the future while living in an evolving digital age. In terms of activity on the continent, Kenya has an infrastructure that’s robust enough to attract multinational tech companies – Google, Nokia, Samsung and the like – but now, other African countries, even those with far less of a footing in the world of technology and investment, are also in the midst of highly ambitious and aesthetically futuristic plans for the design and business networks of their own metropolises.

Where there’s hope

Ghana comes under the spotlight with Appolonia: City Of Light, an urban development in Greater Accra. Named to reflect the vision for the project, Appolonia, City Of Light will be home to people with different income levels, occupying a mix of residential, commercial and industrial buildings. “The idea is for residents to live a complete life in Appolonia, without the need to travel to the city centre,” says Josephine Mallet, who’s responsible for marketing and communications. Launched in

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FEATURE | Africa’s Future Cities

A Light on Accra Appolonia: City of Light will combine residential, commercial and industrial spaces

active player in the global economy, and attracting young talent back to Africa.”

Ten billion dollars is the estimated cost of the project, and although the ground was broken

by Ghana’s President, John Mahama in 2013, with various news outlets citing a completion date of around 2016, as an organically unfolding city, the long process involves various phases, sites and designers. “And that will never stop,” says Brescia. “Our intention is to expand the design process to other architects and urban designers. We’re not interested in creating buildings as objects in the landscape, but to reflect the culture, the vision and the aspirations of the people; a city for the people.”

This is very much the language of community; something that is deeply embedded into the context and the ethos of Hope City. With different functions being linked together, the design aim is to harness the essence of a public space. With this being a Silicon Valley-style city, that status might evolve organically if youthful tech-start ups are attracted to the location. But Brescia is clear that the area is not a campus. “It’s a new urban polarity, where people can meet and enjoy their interconnected lives, which includes the aspirations of young talents, not only from high-tech, but also from the creative industries.

It's a place to exchange ideas and experiences.”

“What traditionally happens in most African countries is that the south is always developed and the north is sectioned off. It’s a shame, because they’re the ones that actually need most of the technology and innovations.” Josiah Kwesi Eyison, iSpace Foundation 2012, one of the ambitions for the city is for it to be a holistic geographical enterprise: so naturally green areas – public open spaces and walkways — as well as a dedicated retail space within a Central Business District are all firmly on the cards.

It’s a broadly similar story, but with a different slant, in Prampram, also part of Ghana’s Greater Accra Region. A town that’s set to be an international hub, there are plans for an airport and seaport, although much excitement revolves around Hope City, a technology park that will be located there. The name derives from Home, Office, People and Environment, but the slicker, four-letter title epitomises a sense of urban optimism for a project that currently exists in rendered form only. Hope City’s design aesthetic shows a dynamic, modern-day take on the traditional, round-house structures usually seen in northern Ghana. Six circular towers will each have link bridges on different floors to allow movement between each building. The largest tower, at 270 metres, will contain 75 floors, making it the tallest building in Africa – beating out the yet-to-be-completed residential Millennium Tower And Cultural Centre project that’s long been earmarked for Abuja, Nigeria.

The Hope City story began in 2012, when architect Paulo Brescia of Italian firm, Open Building Research (OBR) met Roland Agambire, founder of Rlg, the billion-dollar Ghanaian ICT company. “Roland asked us to design an ICT centre for Rlg, but suddenly it was clear that his vision embraced the idea of a city,” says Brescia. “I became fascinated by this, not because of the huge dimensions, but because it gives a great meaning to the city of Accra, turning Ghana into an 94

iSpace is the place

The impact of technology and young entrepreneurial mindsets on Africa’s urban landscape is still worth considering. It’s also worth remembering that the continent has the largest youth population across the globe, so ideas and aspirations need to be met both physically, and in fact, spiritually. Talking with Josiah Kwesi Eyison, co-founder of Ghana’s iSpace Foundation, which sits in the heart of Osu in central Accra, it’s clear he represents the type of businessperson who might be attracted to locations like Appolonia or

Africa’s Future Cities | FEATURE

Paolo Brescia OBR, Italy

Brain Gain Hope City aims to attract young talent to Africa (Right) Hope Floats A design for Hope City technology park in Accra, Ghana

futuristic in the Kinshasa environment.”

Despite Kinshasa being one of the fastest growing cities in Africa, the idea of reclaiming the river by building an urban complex on the swamplands surrounding it was hard to sell. “Everyone laughed at me for two years,” Choudury says. “We had to show the world that it was possible to invest and make money in the DRC outside of mining and timber.” With his team, he essentially had to show people the future that “Building houses and roads is the easiest part. Getting people to adapt their behaviour was more difficult. The way they live, park their cars, hang their laundry… everything.”

Thanks to this communal rethinking, it’s now forbidden to build a house in the area without an access road. From the project’s paperwork in 2008 to approval a year later, four completed apartments built in 2011 and to date, a delivery of 400 units, there’s naturally been interest from African investors from other parts of the continent. This is just one housing project amongst others in Africa, but added to much of the nuanced activity that’s taking place across the continent, the future of Africa’s various vistas looks extremely intriguing.

CITY SITES APPOLONIA CITY OF LIGHT www.appolonia.com.gh

Hope City. His foundation is home to over 30 startups that fuse collaborative, technological and social ideas. However, Eyison is far more taken with the idea of hub communities spread out across Ghana. Of Hope City, he says: “The idea is great, but rather than have one dedicated area, why not build tech neighbourhoods? They could be scattered across the country, with a fund of say, $5K, that’s put in place for new startups.”

This is an idea that’s very much in line with the iSpace ethos. An oasis on the fifth floor of a five-story building overlooking Accra’s bustling town and seafront, it houses a startup working area, an events section, a co-working space and a meeting room. Eyison’s mission for iSpace is for the organisation to develop and support a thriving entrepreneurial and innovative ecosystem in Ghana. He believes that while this is clearly attainable, it remains a particular challenge when compared with the pace of business and innovation that happens in other parts of the continent. “We literally have to start from scratch,” he says. “For a lot of people in Ghana, their idea of doing tech is learning how to use PowerPoint, Word and Excel.”

Because of this, iSpace runs dynamic training programmes to combat any limited tech thinking. Young entrepreneurs can sign up for ‘hackathons’ and sessions in coding, but beyond the Accra-based building, the team have forged external partnerships and also produce mobile events – particularly in cities in the north. “That’s where most of the need is,” says Eyison. “Places like Tamale. Because what traditionally happens in most African countries is that the south is always developed and the north is sectioned off. It’s a shame, because they’re the ones that actually need most of the technology and innovations.”

This taps into a sense of creating another type of future landscape – particularly for Ghana – where the whole of a country is pulled into new ways of networking and new mindsets that focus on social solutions through technology. Although new urban spaces such as Appolonia, City Of Light and Hope City might provide physical room for this, these projects aren’t just concerned with accommodating tech startups. There are other ecosystems that are also being developed in the West, and other regions, of Africa.

ISPACE FOUNDATION ispacegh.com

KONZA TECHNO CITY www.konzacity.go.ke

LA CITÉ DU FLEUVE

www.lacitedufleuve.com

OBR

www.openbuildingresearch.com

This is not Manhattan

Over in the Democratic Republic of Congo, the Kinshasa-based Cité Du Fleuve (River City) is essentially a land-speculation project and independent commune. Less Silicon Valley and much more a new central African bay for prime, river-based housing, it has been tagged ‘the new Manhattan’, a name the project’s CEO, Robert Choudury, baulks at. “That’s a journalist invention,” he says. “We just want to build normal houses on normal roads. Naturally, it looks quite 95

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INSIDE ARIK CALLING ALL EXPLORERS

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Smooth Travels Choose from hundreds of hotel rooms at Arik destinations

FOUR TOP PRIZES ARIK RECEIVES MULTIPLE PRIZES AT THE SECURITY WATCH AWARDS Already listed as one of the top 100 companies in Nigeria, Arik Air, with its 120 daily flights from its hubs in Lagos and Abuja, is now the recipient of four brand new endowments. The 11th Security Watch Africa Award, Lecture and Exhibition took

Winning Team Arik Air’s award recipients

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place in Dubai at the end of 2014 with airline staff snagging prestigious prizes, which included Best Safety and Security Conscious Airline in West and Central Africa. Personal awards went to the Executive Vice President of Arik Air, Mr Chris Ndulue and the prize for Best Aviation Security Manager for West Africa was awarded to Chief Security Officer, Francis Okafor.

The final award for the Most Innovative Aviation Communicator in West Africa was given to Arik’s PR and Communications Manager, Adebanji Ola. In all, the multiple prizes reaffirm the airline’s persistent commitment to service and safety in West and Central Africa in line with international safety standards.

015 sees the launch of a new subsidiary, Arik Explorer. The booking programme enhances passenger experience by providing the option to incorporate airline seats with hotel bookings and add-ons including car hire and travel insurance. The offer for these high quality, customdesigned travel packages is available to inbound and outbound flights to all Arik Air destinations.

Arik Air’s hotel partners can upload rooms and other additional booking options onto the airline’s website in real time. Customers will have access to Arik’s mobile application software and can make bookings via smartphone, tablet and online. This exciting new development fulfills Arik Air’s goal to provide high quality excursions, trips and experiences and promote greater growth within the tourism industry. You can access this new feature by clicking on ‘book a hotel’ on the Arik website or by visiting arikexplorer.com For further information contact info@arikexplorer.com

BIENVENUE EN CÔTE D’IVOIRE ARIK AIR ADDS ABIDJAN TO ITS DESTINATIONS Africa’s fastest growing airline added Abidjan to its stable of African destinations on the 16th of February, 2015. Arik Air already has 20 African destinations across Nigeria as well as the cities of Accra, Banjul, Dakar, Freetown, Luanda, Monrovia, Cotonou and Douala.

The addition of Ivory Coast’s economic capital makes this Arik’s first new route in 2015.

The service operates four times a week with flights from Lagos via Cotonou, Benin Republic. The service, which will be run using Arik Air’s state-ofthe-art Bombardier CRJ900 aircraft, carries 10 Business

Class and 64 Economy Class passengers on each trip.

Executive Vice President Mr Chris Ndulue says of the new service, ‘Abidjan is a preferred destination for Nigerian businessmen and women. Arik Air’s foray into this commercial city will make life a lot easier for our guests who have been yearning for a flight connection between Nigeria and Cote d’Ivoire. This service will further underline Arik Air’s position as West Africa’s premier airline.’ A cultural hub of West Africa with a high level of urbanisation and industrialisation, Abidjan becomes Arik Air’s 7th country destination within the continent.

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MARY-ROSE GAFFNEY, SECURITY TERMINAL MANAGER ‘I have worked at Arik for four years and seven months now, based in Lagos. My main tasks are maintaining a high level of security and safety at all times, and ensuring that all passengers, visas and documents are in order to travel.

I’ve worked in aviation for 27 years, working in security and airfield operations. I spent two years in Iraq. My new challenge was the commercial part of aviation. I now have the experience from all sides, which helps.

Every day is a challenge, ensuring that standards are

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maintained to the highest level while keeping customers safe, secure and happy.

It’s rewarding to achieve all the standards and to meet so many different people everyday.

I also enjoy working alongside motivated staff.

I went to Ireland and New York recently. I’d love to go to Vietnam.

I’ve read and seen so much about it and the history alone makes me want to visit, so hopefully I’ll do some flying this year.

NEW YORK, NEW YORK CELEBRATING FIVE YEARS OF FLYING TO NYC

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Important changes to your Dubai service Introducing new timings and connections

From Sunday 15th February 2015, Arik Air will be moving from Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 at Dubai International Airport (DXB). For more information visit www.dubaiairports.ae

NEW ROUTE TIMINGS

Premier Passenger Diana Campbell, CEO of 100 Hearts Children’s Charity with Arik staff

Arik Air’s non-stop route from New York’s JFK to Lagos’s Murtala Mohammed International Airport saw its fifth anniversary in December. To mark the occasion, five lucky economy class passengers were upgraded to premier class cabins where they experienced all the inflight perks of flat-lying seats, six-foot leg room and 17-inch TV screens. Since Arik’s scheduled New York flights began in 2009, over 100,000 passengers have booked in for the service. Vice

President Americas, Arik Air, Robert Brunner was pleased to see Arik celebrating this milestone and stated that, ‘As US interest in the African economy continues to increase, we look forward to the opportunities this will present Arik Air.’

Outbound Departure Murtala Muhammed International Airport, Lagos (LOS) 16.15 local time, every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday; Via Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport, leaving Abuja (ABV) at 18.30, onwards to Dubai International Airport (DXB), arriving 04.30am the next day.

Join us online at… facebook.com/FlyArikAir Linkedin.com/company/arik-air-ltd

Inbound Departure Dubai International Airport (DXB) 06.00 local time, every Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday; Via Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport, leaving Abuja (ABV) at 11.15 local time, onwards to Murtala Muhammed International Airport, Lagos (LOS), arriving 12.30.

The new timings will offer connections to domestic Nigerian destinations - in both directions – and also to Accra, Ghana.

The destinations now connecting are Gombe, Kano, Port Harcourt, Ilorin, Benin City, Warri, Owerri and Enugu.

google.com/+arikair youtube.com/user/FlyArikAir instagram.com/flyarikair

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ONBOARD TIPS

HEALTH & COMFORT DRESS FOR COMFORT

EQUALISE EAR PRESSURE

Loosen shoe laces, belts, tight socks and ties for maximum comfort.

During ascent and descent, changes in the cabin pressure can cause a feeling of discomfort in your ears.

Chewing gum or sucking and swallowing will help equalise the pressure in your ears. Babies or young passengers may suffer more acutely. Consider providing them with a dummy to suck on.

ENTERTAIN YOURSELF Enjoy a film, read your copy of Wings or explore your personalised in-flight entertainment system.

Arik Air offers a great choice of Hollywood and Nollywood movies, radio channels and a map display.

HYDRATE Try and drink eight ounces of water every hour. Avoid drinking too much tea, coffee and alcohol, which are diuretics.

ADJUST YOUR SEAT Use the seat recline as well as the lumbar support to find a comfortable position. All Arik Air seats are fitted with a footrest that, while aiding your comfort, will also help relieve pressure on your calf muscles.

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MOISTURISE To combat dry cabin air, pamper yourself with a good-quality skin moisturiser, provided as standard to premier class passengers.

GIVE YOUR EYES A BREAK Contact lenses may cause eye irritation due to the dry cabin air.

We recommend that you wear your glasses in flight. Your eyes will feel fresher and less tired when you arrive.

CIRCULATION SAFETY Try doing seated leg exercises every couple of hours throughout the flight to help prevent stiffness and swelling.

Lift your knees while at the same time clenching your thigh muscles and pointing your toes up and down and around in a circular motion. Repeat this between 10 and 20 times with each leg.

Doing these exercises whilst flying will help you feel better when you arrive. When resting, try to make sure your body is in a comfortable position and turn frequently so your body is not constricted or stretched for long periods of time. Try to avoid sleeping for long periods without changing position.

n Pay close attention to the safety briefings at the beginning and end of the flight and know the location of all exits including how many rows away you are from an exit. n Be aware of which electronic devices are and are not allowed to be used during the flight. If you are unsure of our policies, consult a crew member. Mobile phones are not permitted for use at any time whilst on board. n Follow the instructions of the crew at all times and be respectful of them and the other passengers. n Inform the crew of any disruptive behaviour, follow their instructions, and be courteous. n Be aware of safety procedures, relax and enjoy your flight!

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FLEET AIRBUS A340–500 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 237nn Length 69mnn Wingspan 63.45mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

AIRBUS A330–200 n Number of aircraft in fleet 2nn Number of seats 217nn Length 58.82mnn Wingspan 60.3mnn Cruising speed 871km/h

BOEING 737–800 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 148nn Length 39.5mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOEING 737–700 n Number of aircraft in fleet 9nn Number of seats 124-149nn Length 33.6mnn Wingspan 35.7mnn Cruising speed 828km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ1000 n Number of aircraft in fleet 1nn Number of seats 92nn Length 39mnn Wingspan 26mnn Cruising speed 870km/h

BOMBARDIER CRJ900 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 74nn Length 36.40mnn Wingspan 24.85mnn Cruising speed 881km/h

BOMBARDIER DASH8 Q400 n Number of aircraft in fleet 4nn Number of seats 72nn Length 32.8mnn Wingspan 28.4mnn Cruising speed 660km/h www.arikair.com

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SAFETY & SERVICES TICKET PURCHASE Bookings and e-ticket purchases can be made by calling our reservation desks or call centres or online at www.arikair.com.

They can also be made by visiting our airport or regional offices or via select travel agents.

Please see the Contact Us page or our website for further details.

You can access all up-to-date fares by going to the booking engine on our homepage. A booking cannot be cancelled online once it has been

confirmed. However, you can call our reservations office or visit your local Arik Air office for cancellations or to reschedule a booking. Note that an administration charge may be charged for cancellations or rescheduling of flights.

If you choose to pay for your fare by cash, you may collect your ticket from our city office, or local airport office.

Passports should be valid for more than six months from the date of travel. We advise you to contact the embassy or consulate of your transit and final destination for visa requirements.

Special Fares Promotional and special fares are posted on our website on a regular basis. Please go online and check www.arikair.com for updates.

CHECK IN n Arik Air check-in counters open in Nigeria two hours before departure for domestic flights, three hours before regional flights, and four hours before international flights.

Arik App With the Arik Air App, you’re in charge of your flying experience.

The app is free to download on Blackberry, iOS, or Android devices For more information visit arikair.com/arik-airmobile-app

www.arikair.com

For international flights, checked in baggage allowance is:

PREMIER BUSINESS CLASS 3 pieces at 30kg max per piece.

ECONOMY CLASS 2 pieces at 30kg max per piece. n The total number of bags allowed for any guest is eight pieces. n Do not overfill suitcases and bags beyond their weight or volume capacity. This can lead to breakage of handles, zips, wheels or other damage caused to your baggage. The airline is not liable for these types of damages. n It is advisable to label all baggage with your name, destination and contact details.

n Keep any baggage labels or receipts in a safe place. You may be required to present them upon leaving the airport. n It is advisable to clearly label or tie a coloured ribbon to your luggage in order to identify your bags easily. n Guests are permitted to carry one piece of hand luggage at 12kg maximum. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage.

n At check-in, please present your passport and ticket together with anything else you were asked at the time of booking to bring with you, such as your company ID card. n Knives, nail scissors, tweezers, lighters and other sharp or explosive objects are not allowed in hand luggage. Please see the notices at the airport. n Guests who fail to complete check-in procedures on time will not be permitted to travel. n Premier Business Class guests are entitled to use business class lounges at Johannesburg International, London Heathrow, New York JFK and Lagos Murtala Muhammed International airports. n All guests must complete check-in for their Arik Air flight prior to check-in closure which is 30 minutes for domestic flights, 60 minutes for regional flights and 90 minutes for International flights. Strict

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closure of check-in at all airports is to ensure our flights depart on time. Once we have accepted guests at the check-in desks, we close the flight at the stated latest check in time to permit the necessary calculations and preparations for an ‘on-time’ departure.

Re-opening our guest list after check-in closure puts the flight at risk of delay, i.e. the flight could miss its allocated take-off slot.

ONLINE CHECK-IN Online check-in allows you to avoid long check-in queues at the airport and confirm your seat in advance. It opens 24 hours before the scheduled departure time of your flight and closes five hours before international flights and three hours before domestic and regional flights.

Log on to www.arikair.com and follow the prompts to the online check-in service, and follow the instructions.

ARIK ZONE

UNACCOMPANIED MINORS Unaccompanied minors are well looked after on all Arik Air flights. Our crew will assist with all of the complicated airport details and forms and will help unaccompanied minors call home at our cost to let parents know they are okay.

Onboard, we make sure the youngsters have a great time with lots of goodies and attention. In fact, they probably won’t even notice that mum and dad aren’t around!

We will carry unaccompanied minors only upon completion and signature of the necessary forms by a parent or guardian. n Domestic Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years.

SAFETY STANDARDS

MEALS

Arik Air is committed to ensuring that a safe, hazard-free environment prevails throughout its areas of operation, for both employees and guests, by meeting or exceeding all flight, occupational, and environmental health and safety standards. The management considers safety as the number one priority for the airline, and is committed to minimising the possibility of accidents by implementing a safety program provided by the Corporate Safety and Security Department.

A choice of international and Nigerian cuisine is available to all guests on Arik Air flights.

Vegetarian and children’s meals are available to guests on designated routes. Requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase online or via our call centre or reservation desks a minimum of 48 hours before the flight.

On international flights, soft drinks, wine, cocktails and snacks are available to Premier Class guests at the Kira Bar.

WHEELCHAIR SERVICE Elderly guests and guests with walking difficulties are entitled to wheelchair service. However requests must be made at the time of ticket purchase or reservation.

CHILDCARE We provide a variety of amenities to ensure a stress-free flight for parents of babies and small children. Please ask a flight attendant for assistance. Diaper changing boards are located in selected toilets.

AIRBUS A340 & A330 CABIN FEATURES

n International Flights Arik Air does not carry unaccompanied minors under five years of age and also if there is a transfer prior to the final destination.

CARRIAGE OF INFANTS If you are travelling with an Infant under 24 months you can include them on your seat booking by making an Infant reservation. Newly born Infants under seven days old will not be accepted. For safety requirements Infants must be accompanied by a guest aged 21 years or above and booked in the ratio of one infant per adult.

Infants under 24 months on the day of travel may fly for a significantly reduced infant fare per one-way flight, provided they sit on an adult’s lap. If the Infant reaches the age of two years prior to the return journey they must contact Arik’s reservations directly to book a seat, as safety regulations require that a seat is allocated.

Proof of age may be required so please have the Infant’s valid photo-ID available for inspection.

Premier Business Class guests on international flights enjoy fully flat seats with a 10-motor vibro massage system, full control by touchscreen suite, electric leg, head and armrest extension and rotation, mirrored privacy dividers and on-board social bar area.

Our economy seats provide extra leg space, and all seats are equipped with individual entertainment systems.

www.arikair.com

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ROUTE MAP

NEW YORK CITY

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

SOKOTO

KANO

KADUNA

GOMBE JOS

ABUJA

YOLA

ILORIN IBADAN ENUGU

LAGOS

ASABA BENIN CITY WARRI PORT HARCOURT

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OWERRI UYO CALABAR

ARIK AIR DOMESTIC ROUTES

ARIK ZONE

UK LONDON

DUBAI

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

SENEGAL REPUBLIC OF BENIN

DAKAR BANJUL GAMBIA

GHANA

SIERRA LEONE FREETOWN MONROVIA LIBERIA

CÔTE D’IVOIRE COTONOU ABIDJAN

ACCRA

NIGERIA ABUJA LAGOS

CAMEROON DOUALA

ANGOLA LUANDA

JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA

ARIK AIR INTERNATIONAL ROUTES www.arikair.com

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CONTACT Reservations Nigeria +234 (0)1 2799999 +234 (0)1 906 7000 Angola +244 222 391150 Cameroon +237 33428248 +23733432285 The Gambia +220 4399966/77 Ghana +233 (0) 233 044 800/1/6/7 Liberia +231 (0) 22 00 76 54 Republic Of Benin (229) 2131 84 10 (229) 21 30 34 81 Republic Of Côte D’Ivoire (225) 21 21 97 32 (225) 20 22 28 08 Senegal +221 33 821 7497 Sierra Leone +232 25203949 South Africa +27(0)11 666 7470 UAE +971 4 3885510 United Kingdom +44 (0)844 482 2324

CUSTOMER RELATIONS

To provide feedback on your travel experience with us: T +234 1 906 7000 +234 1 279 9999 E talktous@arikair.com

TRAVEL TRADE SALES

If you are a travel agent and have a question or request: T +234 (0) 8077791664 E travelagencydesk@arikair.com

CORPORATE SALES

If your company has a question concerning business travel: T 08077791154 08077911466 E corporatesales@arikair.com

GROUP SALES

To make a booking for nine (9) or more guests travelling together: T +234 (0) 8077791667 E gdm@arikair.com

CHARTER SALES

For enquiries into our Charter services: T +234 (0) 8077791652 E chartersales@arikair.com

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

If your query does not fall into any of the above categories: E info@arikair.com

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ARIK AIR TRAVEL SHOPS & AIRPORT TICKET OFFICES

NIGERIA ABUJA Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Abuja Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport Terminal Abuja Domestic Airport Terminal LAGOS Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Arik Air Travel Shop Lagos Murtala Muhammed International Airport, MMIA Lagos Murtala Muhammed Domestic Airport (GAT) PORT HARCOURT Arik Air Travel Shop Port Harcourt International Airport Port Harcourt Garden City Terminal REGIONAL & INTERNATIONAL ANGOLA Arik Air General Sales Agent

Melita Plaza, Near Efab Plaza, Ahmadu Bello Way, Area 11 Transcorp Hilton, 1 Aguiyi Ironsi Street, Maitama 417 Tigris Crescent, Off Aguiyi Ironsi, Maitama

45 Awolowo Road, Ikoyi 44 Toyin Street, Ikeja Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 30 Mobolaji Bank Anthony Way, Ikeja

47 Aba Road, Eastern Garden House

Aeroporto Internacional 4 de Fevereiro Luanda

Valeria Tours, Rua Dr Alves da Cunha Nº 4 1º A (descendo o Largo Mutu Ya Kevela) Luanda

CAMEROON Arik Air General Sales Agent

Inalex Voyages 1595 Blvd de la Liberte, Akwa, Bp 15080

Douala International Airport

Douala

THE GAMBIA Arik Air Travel Shop Yundun International Airport

FIB Building 2, Kairaba Avenue, Serekunda Banjul

GHANA Arik Air Travel Shop

Ground Floor, Phillipa, 89 Ringway Estate, Osu, P.M.B 95 KIA, Accra

Kotoka International Airport LIBERIA Arik Air Travel Shop Monrovia Roberts International Airport REPUBLIC OF BENIN City ticketing office Airport ticketing office REPUBLIC OF CÔTE D'IVOIRE City ticketing office Airport ticketing office

Accra Rose Garden Plaza, Crown Hill, Monrovia Monrovia Olizair Bénin, angle Avenue Steinmetz / Rue Chagas, Immeuble Kougblenou, 01 P.O. Box 3530 Cotonou Olizair Bénin, Aéroport international Cardinal Bernandin Gantin, Cotonou Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Rue du commerce, Immeuble l’Amiral, 17 P.O. Box 199 Abidjan 17 Olizair Côte d'Ivoire, Aéroport international Félix Houphouët Boigny, Abidjan

SENEGAL Arik Travel Travel Shop Immeuble Amsa Assurance, Amadou Assane N’doye, Dakar Dakar-Yoff-Leopold Sedar Senghor International Dakar Airport SIERRA LEONE Arik Air Travel Shop 13 Howe Street, Freetown Arik Air Sales Desk Lungi International Airport SOUTH AFRICA Arik Air International Sales Agent O.R. Tambo International Airport, International Terminal UNITED ARAB EMIRATES Arik Air General Sales Agent UNITED KINGDOM Arik Air General Sales Agent London Heathrow Airport, Terminal 4 USA Arik Air General Sales Agent John F Kennedy Airport, Terminal 4

Zenith Bank, 18-20 Rawdon Street, Freetown Freetown Suite 14, 1st Floor Daisy Street Office Park 135 Daisy Street, Sandown, Sandton, Johannesburg Johannesburg

S5, Ground Floor, Gulf Towers, Oud Metha Road, PB. 120002, Dubai, UAE Aviareps PLC., 52 Grosvenor Gardens, London, SW1W 0AU London Aviareps INC New York City

WINGTIPS Your definitive guide to Arik Air destinations 108 Abidjan Abuja Accra 109 Asaba Banjul Benin 110 Cotonou Calabar Dakar 111 Douala Dubai Enugu 112 Freetown Gombe

Ibadan 113 Ilorin Johannesburg Jos 114 Kaduna Kano Lagos 115 London Luanda Monrovia 116 New York City Owerri

Port Harcourt 117 Sokoto Uyo Warri 118 Yola

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ABIDJAN

CÔTE D’IVOIRE An industrial and modern city, Abidjan has a number of cultural offerings for business travellers as well as tourists en route to one of The Ivory Coast’s bountiful beaches. Notable spots include the Galerie d’Arts Pluriel, (Rue des Jardins) which is run by a local arts historian, and the Musée National (32 Boulevard Carde), which houses traditional artworks. The Cathedrale St Paul (Boulevard Lagunaire) is also well worth a visit.

BUY The Marché de Cocody (Boulevard de France) has a top floor geared for souvenir-hunters, with intricate woodcarvings, masks, textiles, jewels, and timeless examples of Ivorian art. If you’d like a more local feel, though, head to Marché de Treichville on Avenue Victor Blaka. It’s in a Chinese-built building, but inside you’ll find a truly Ivorian market experience, packed to the rafters with everything from unusual foods to exquisite antiques.

BON APPETIT Don’t miss eating

at one of the many maquis dotted along the streets of Abidjan.

Unique to the country, they’re a type of open-air restaurant serving simple but delicious braised chicken and fish dishes, cassava, and the ubiquitous Ivorian stew, kedjenou. On the opposite end of the scale is Aboussouan (Boulevard Giscard-D’Estaing), which takes these very same maquis dishes and perfects them into haute cuisine, pairing them with a selection of wine. Englishlanguage website abidjanito. com, provides comprehesive coverage of dining and nightlife.

BED TIME Most good accommodation is found in the streets between the Musée National and the bottom tip of the Abidjan Plateau, where you’ll find the Novotel Abidjan (+225 20 31 80 00), which boasts an excellent view and all the business-traveller trappings. A more humble but no lesser stay is found at the Villa Anakao (Cocody Il Plateaux, +225 49 74 21 13), a boutique hotel with a handful of personalized rooms, with artwork handpicked by owner Caroline and her family.

HIP TIP Take a break from the shopping and nightlife of Abidjan and explore Banco National Park and its stunning wildlife; its previously difficult trails have now been upgraded.

Don’t forget your camera!

ACCRA GHANA

Ghana’s exceedingly welcoming capital marries a vibrant music and nightlife scene with a distinctive traditional culture.

Add easy links to ecotourism hotspots, and you have yourself a spot-on holiday destination.

A lot of attractions are contained between the Waterfront High Street and Makola Market. Other historically-relevant pockets include James Town, and Cape Coast Castle, the seat of British colonial administration from 1664—1877. www. touringghana.com posts up-to-theminute information.

BUY Hone your bargaining skills at Makola Market on Kojo Thompson Road and The Centre for National Culture on 28th February Road. Both stock stunning

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ABUJA NIGERIA

Nigeria’s neatly planned capital boasts quite a few intriguing landmarks. Among them are the National Mosque, Zuma Rock, the Ecumenical Cathedral and the Arts and Culture area of Garki. Take in the view from Kpaduma Hills and find events listings at Gladng.org.

BUY Bring on the bling at Wuse Market in Zone 5 which sells gold and bespoke jewellery along with stunning Nigerian fabrics. Pick up contemporary and traditional art at Life Strokes gallery (Life Strokes, , Dunes Center, 44 Aguiyi Ironsi Way, Maitama, 0803 304 3822) and Signature Gallery (Aminu Kano Crescent, Wuse II, 09 5233849).

BON APPETIT Abuja has some of the best restaurants in the country. Find a comprehensive list of cuisine from around the world at www.gladng.org. There are a few family restaurants at Ceddi Plaza. If you’re only in town for a drop-in visit, try a taste of Nigeria at Jevinik (494 Bengui Road, off Adetokumbo Ademola Crescent, Wuse II). For upmarket dining, you can’t beat the choice of restaurants at the Transcorp Hilton.

BED TIME The international

hotel chains are concentrated in Central Abuja. The Transcorp Hilton in the Maitama District houses 4 restaurants, a large shopping area and a casino.

(Transcorp Hilton, www.hilton. co.uk/abuj, 234 (0) 9413 181 184).

Bolingo Hotel & Towers on Independence Avenue is also excellent.

Mid-priced hotels include Valencia Hotels (Valencia Hotels, Plot 799, Blantyre Street, Off Adetokunbo Ademola Crescent, Wuse II, 234 (0) 9 524 0669 70, 524 0644) and Savannah Suites Hotel & Resort (Savannah Suites Plot 1091, Faskari Street, Garki-Abuja, 234 (0) 9290 6119, 234. Mob: 234 (0) 804 211 6322).

HIP TIP Come for the annual Abuja Carnival towards the end of November. Spend the daytime along the parade route and the night partying alongside the country’s celebrities at Tucano bar (23,Usuma Street, Maitama, Formally Congress Lounge Bar).

handicrafts and kente fabric.

BON APPETIT Accra is home to varied cuisine. Discover the much-loved Buka, a casual, partly open-air rooftop, chop house (Buka, Osu R.E, adjacent to the American Embassy Visa Section. Tel 233 21 782 953).

The nearby Osu Foodcourt on Cantonments Road and cafes on Labadi Beach are good for fuss-free family dining.

BED TIME Budget hotels are concentrated between Adabraka, through Asylum Down and up to Kokomlemle Road. The Cavalry Methodist Guest House comes recommended (Cavalry Methodist Guest House, Barnes Road, opposite the National Museum, 021 234507). In the upper bracket, The Golden Tulip is good value with a free airport shuttle service (Golden Tulip, Liberation Road, 021 213161). Luxe it up beachside at La Palm Royal Beach

Hotel, 5km from the city centre and one of Accra’s most upmarket hotels. (La Palm Royal Beach, Pleasure Beach, 021 771700).

HIP TIP Head out to one of Ghana’s national parks or craft villages. Kumasi is famous for its kente cloth loom-workers.

Visit Ntonso for Adinkra cloth, Asuofia for bead-making, or Anpobame Krofron for brass.

WINGTIPS

ASABA NIGERIA

With vibrant neighbourhoods and a swath of the River Niger running through it, Asaba has a vibrant urban culture that is great for business and leisure. The city is ethnically diverse and mostly composed of Igbo speakers with Itsekiri, Urhobo, Isoko,

Ijaw, Hausa and Yoruba communities.

Asaba is replete with cultural sites, the most popular of which are Asaba Beach, River Ethiope source, Kwale Game Reserve, Jamieson River, Chief Nana’s Palace Living History Museum, The Royal Palace Of The Obi (traditional ruler), Mungo Park House, and Escarvo Beach.

Enjoy recreational fare at the Bombardi Beach Party Resort, Olona Ranch & Holiday Resort and Leisure Palace Amusement Park in Effurun.

BUY Ogbeogonogo Market is the biggest street market in Asaba, located in the heart of the town within Oshimili south local government area. The market has over one thousand traders and attracts large crowds of daily customers.

BON APETIT In addition to a variety of local cuisine on offer at street corners, eat

BANJUL

THE GAMBIA Often bypassed in favour of The Gambia’s seaside resorts less than an hour away, Banjul is an unlikely gem. Originally named ‘Bathurst’ after British colonial Henry Bathurst, Banjul was once a port used to hamper the slave trade after the Abolition Act of 1807. Today, the crumbling city on an island is a destination with a compelling national museum, an atmospheric old town and views across the Gambia River. Its manageable size is an added bonus. Discover the pleasure of Banjul with a leisurely stroll coupled with a flexible itinerary.

BUY Barter and banter at Albert Market where aisles of shabby stalls burst with a treasure trove of quality souvenirs.

BON APPETIT In contrast to the Atlantic coast which has a more varied selection, simple chop shops abound. Michel’s on 29 July 22 Drive, is one of the few

restaurants open from early morning until late at night.

Afterwards, head to Queens Nightclub on Renee Blain Street. The slightly seedy late-night scene is made up for with sublime Gambian music.

BED TIME A lot of the better hotels are on the coast though Carlton Hotel is a satisfactory city centre guesthouse (Tel 228670; fax 4227214, 25 July 22 Drive). On the top-end, try Atlantic Hotel (Tel +220 4228601/6, corinthiahotels. com; Muammar al Gadhafi Ave).

The sprawling resort has all the amenities you would expect including a private beach, pool, gym and nightclub. Gambia. co.uk is one of the best sites for detailed holiday and accommodation information.

HIP TIP Birdwatch from a pirogue along the mangroves of Oyster Creek. Most hotels organise pirogue trips, though you can also book independently at Denton Bridge, 3 km west of the city centre.

out at one of many city hotels and restaurants, including Larryville Hotel & Restaurant on Brigid’s road, and Dema Kitchen on Ezenel Avenue.

BED TIME Place a reservation for a stay at the Grand Hotel (grandhotelnigeria. com/+234 8037584941) or enjoy the sedate atmosphere of the Amena Hotels & Resort (+234 056342646) in Oghara. Other accommodation spots are the Nelrose (+234 046300688) on Government House road and Wellington (+234 080550244) in Effurun, a little over a 10-minute car ride from the city centre.

HIP TIP Festival season is between March and December. The more popular festivals that you might want to mark in your calendar are: Ulo (held in July), Aja (in August) and Iwaji (celebrated in September to mark the end of harvest).

BENIN NIGERIA

The Kingdom of Benin is still immersed in age-old traditions making it one of Nigeria’s most fascinating destinations.

According to local lore the Bini people founded the empire in 1880 AD. Today’s reigning Oba is the spiritual leader of the people of Benin. Sights include The Oba’s Palace at King’s Square, and The Benin National Museum, which houses a large collection of bronze, brass and ivory treasures spanning five centuries and the ramparts of the Old City Wall, once the world’s second largest man-made structure after China’s Great Wall.

BUY Purchase brass statues and witness the making of Benin brass heads at the shops along Igun Street or go for the full market experience at the Oba’s market.

BON APPETIT New Benin Market, northeast of the city centre is home to great street

food and suya along with bars and shops that stay open late.

Saidi Centre has one of the best restaurants with a Chinese, Lebanese and European menu.

BED TIME Numerous hotels of varying standards are dotted around the ring road. Among these, the Constantial Hotel sets a high standard coupling wellappointed suites with internet access, a gym and pool (24–26 Airport/Ogba Road, opposite Benin Airport exit gate; +234 52-257-122, constantialhotel. com). Samsy Hotel on Adesuwa Road in GRA also comes recommended.

HIP TIP Make a trip to Okumu Eco Resort, 35 km from the city centre. On tailored nature walks visitors can look out for over 200 species of birdlife, monkeys, civets and butterflies (okomuecoresort.com, Tel +234 808 468). Also, on the last Sunday of every month a Motocross race is held in the town and is often attended by Edo State’s governor. www.arikair.com

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CALABAR NIGERIA

COTONOU

REPUBLIC OF BENIN BEHOLD Many visitors use Cotonou as a starting point en route to Ouidah or Porto Novo however the city offers a number of points of interest such as the Italian neo-renaissance cathedral in the city centre. For cultural performances contact the Centre Culturel Francais located near the French Embassy on route de l’Aeroport (21 30 08 56) or the American Cultural Centre on Boulevard de la Marina (21 30 03 12).

BUY The incredible Dantokpa market near the Boulevard Saint Michel spreads all the way to the lagoon. Inside, discover an enthralling fetish market selling dried, whole animals and voodoo apparatus. If you prefer handicrafts to whole dried goat, check out the Centre de Promotion de l’Artisanat on Boulevard St Michel.

BON APPETIT Local cuisine consists of Beninois street food and a small but growing selection of international

restaurants. Chez Maman Benin near Cine Benin and Chez Clarisse are favourites. Le Petit Four on Boulevard Steinmetz is a charming art-deco coffee shop with Wi-Fi, pastries, pasta and oven-baked pizzas. After dinner head to So What! Off Boulevard Steinmetz for infectious live music (21 31 06 66).

BED TIME Most accommodation is found in the Ancienne Pont area or Akpakpa rather than in the centre, including Benin Marina on Boulevard de Marina (21 30 01 00, www.benin-marina.com).

Business travellers flock to Novotel Orisha on Boulevard de la Marina which has a large pool and high-end French restaurant (novotel.com, 21 30 41 77).

HIP TIP VooDoo followers from around the world travel to the beautiful coastal town of Ouidah for the annual VooDoo festival in early January to receive blessings and participate in ceremonies. 60% of Benin’s population practice the religion.

BEHOLD Since the colonial era and crowning of King Archibong III by Queen Victoria in 1878, this 16th-century port city has been a popular holiday destination. Explore colonial architecture around Henshaw and Duke Town including the governor’s residence, Mary Slessor Residence and the Calabar Museum.

Nature enthusiasts: spare the time to travel to Agbokim Waterfalls surrounded by lush green valleys and near to the Afi Wildlife Sanctuary, Refome Lake and Kwa Rapids. For wildlife, visit the Afi Mountain Drill Ranch (pandrillus.org) and Cercopan Primate Rehabilitation Centre (cercopan.org).

SENEGAL

Senegal’s capital is a frenetic study of contrasts, brimming with creativity. Take in the views with the Chi Chi Dakarois,

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HIP TIP Every December 26th, Calabar comes alive for a weeklong carnival featuring parties, parades and a load of fringe activities (calabarcarnival.org).

BUY Pick up textiles and handicrafts at Watt Market or delve in to a local experience at Marian Wet Market.

BON APPETIT Food from Calabar is renowned. Sublime suya is served up at Bogobiri Corner. More formal diners can head to Freddy’s for Lebanese (Freddy’s, 90 Aketong Drive, 087/232 821). If you’re a fan of bars with kitsch names, have a post-prandial boogie around Nelson Mandela Street at La Luna, Paradise City and Tuxedo Junction.

from the roof of the Hotel Independence on Place de l’Independence. Stroll through the IFAN Museum on Place Soweto. Go for a beach dip at N’Gor or on private beaches such as at the Hotel Lagon 2 or Plage de la Voile d’Or. Better yet, catch a 20 minute ferry ride to the tranquil Île de Gorée. After sunning, pop a long dress over your bikini for a tour of Dakar Grand Mosque, styled after Casablanca’s Mohammed V Mosque.

DAKAR

BED TIME Recommended hotels include The Mirage (themiragecalabar.com, Plot 230, Mcc road Calabar, +234 80372 26046) and Transcorp Hotel at Murtala Mohammed Highway (+234 (0) 807 773 1111, transcorphotels.com). 25 km from the airport, Tinapa Business Resort offers a host of facilities and activities +234 87 232300, Tinapa.com.ng).

BUY Fill up on fruit and veg at Marche Sandaga, the city’s centreville market where you will also find unique souvenirs like briefcases made of recycled beer cans.

500m downhill from Sandaga, you’ll discover a former Mauritanian silversmiths’ yard, the Cour des Orfevres.

BON APPETIT Dakar teems with world-class restaurants, bistros and cafes, though many are closed

on Sundays. Scrumptions Senegalese meals can be had at Keur N’Deye (821 4973; 68 Rue Vincens). Excellent, free listings magazines are available at hotel lobbies.

BED TIME Hotel Lagon 2 is modelled on the interior of a ship and has views over the rocky cliffs as well as access to a private beach (www.lagon.sn, 338 89 25 25) The luxury Sofitel Teranga remains popular with business travellers (889 2200, Place de l’Indépendance) but for a boutique experience try Hotel Sokhamon (hotelsokhamon.com, 338 89 71 00).

HIP TIP Discover unrivalled nightlife like Thiosanne, owned by Youssou N’Dour (Sicap rue 10, 338 24 60 46) or head to Just 4 U, a live music institution, serving authentic local fare (824 3250, just 4u@ sentoo.sn, Ave Cheikh Anta Diop).

WINGTIPS

DOUALA

CAMEROON Cameroon’s economic centre is a bustling port city known for business rather than tourism. In contrast to the capital Yaounde, visitor-worthy spots can mostly be covered within a few hours. Your best bet is to visit the cultural centres. Highly recommended is Doul’art (Place du Gouvernement, Bonanjo, + 237 33 433 259, doualart.org), a non-profit cultural centre and gallery opened in 1991. Artists work on the cultural and urban identity of Douala.

BUY Find art, crafts and antiques at Marche des Fleurs (Street R1.221, DoualaBonapriso). Conveniently located on the main road from downtown towards the airport, it’s famous for Cameroonian wood products. There’s also a good souvenir market on Ahmadou Ahidjo Avenue.

DUBAI

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES BEHOLD Dubai is known as the glittering city; it’s surrounded by desert, studded with skyscrapers and dripping with opulence. Plus there’s loads of adventure and culture right alongside the gleaming glass towers.

BUY As one of the most luxurious destinations in the world, Dubai’s malls are packed to the rafters with diamonds and designer goods, and you can find the biggest selection at Mall of the Emirates (malloftheemirates.com). An authentic shopping experience is to be found at one of Dubai’s many souks where you can pick up goods such as carpets, gold, textiles, and perfume for attractive prices. Some of the best souks are in Deira, on Baniyas Road, where you’ll find both the Spice Souk and the Gold Souk. Remember to bargain!

BON APPETIT You have your pick of swishy restaurants

BON APPETIT There’s an open-air drinking and dining culture in Douala so places to eat are not hard to come by. The city is also home to quality international cuisine.

French restaurant, La Fourchette (Quartier AKWA, Rue entrée SHO plus et AXA, +237 99 92 64 66), is favoured by business visitors.

Try local dishes, seafood and steak at La Cigale, in the Bonanjo neighbourhood, where you can also enjoy live music and a glass of South African wine.

BED TIME Unlike in some West African cities, Douala’s hotels are mostly reasonably priced. Business hotels equipped with swimming pools and work facilities include the Akwa Palace (920, Boulevard de la Liberte, hotel-akwa-palace.com), as well as international chains such as Le Meridien (35 Avenue des Cocotiers, +237 3 343 5000, starwoodhotels.com) and the Ibis (Rue Pierre Loti, Bonanjo, (+237 334 25760, Ibis.com)

HIP TIP Tourists are advised to venture out.

Nearby beaches include Limbe, 90kms from the city and Kribi, a popular beach two-hours drive from Douala. Further afield, wildlife lovers flock to Waza National Park and trekking in the Mandara Mountains.

encompassing every cuisine in Dubai, but for authentic Emirati food you should head to the Al-Mallah restaurant in Satwa, where you can get the tastiest shawarma in the city. If you’re looking for high-end food without the fuss, head to Marta’s Workshop (martasworkshop. com), which serves modern international fare with a focus on fresh ingredients and a menu that changes daily.

200 air-conditioned rooms, a restaurant, bar, pool and tennis courts (Nike Lake, 042 557 000, proteahotels.com). The nearby, and smaller Zodiac Hotel also has a good restaurant, a pool and satellite TV (042 457 900, 5 Rangers Ave, Independence Layout). Lucha Guesthouse caters to the budget traveller (042 253 795, Nweko Lane, off Ogidi Street).

BED TIME The pinnacle of luxury Dubai hotels is known to be the Dar Al Masyaf and Malakiya Villas (jumeirah.com), where butlers will attend to every need. Thankfully the quality of the service and amenities is so high in Dubai that even the budget and business hotels are enjoyable places to stay. Among the most popular is the Savoy Suites (savoydubai.com), which offers comfort beyond what you’d expect for the price.

ENUGU

HIP TIP Get out of the city and plunge yourself into some sand – some sandboarding, that is.

Similar to snowboarding, but understandably hotter, this is one of the best ways to have fun in the desert – second to camel riding, that is. Check out tour operators like Desert Safari (desertsafaridubai.com) or Wonder Sand (wondersandtourism. com) for more information.

BUY For an authentic experience, head to the city’s main market, Ogbete Market.

Hanidcrafts, souvenirs and household goods are also available at the Artisan Market and New Market.

NIGERIA

The Igbo capital of Enugu has regained its vitality from its heydey when coal was discovered in the area. Enugu which means ‘top of the hill’ became the capital of the Eastern Region in the 1930s.

The National Museum (58 Abakiliki Road) is open from 8am-4pm daily and features Igbo artefacts, textiles and weapons.

BON APPETIT Station Road has a large selection of chop houses.

BED TIME Nike Lake Resort has

HIP TIP Visit the Holy Ghost Cathedral near Ogbete Market or catch a Sunday service and gain a sense of Enugu’s religious scene.

THE APHROLOUNGE

Enugu’s coolest lounge/hangout.

Visit Aphrolounge Kitchen with Chef Stan for exquisite breakfast, Continental and African dishes.

Bring your own bottle every Thursday night. Aphro-Jazz night on Sundays. Space for events rental: Weddings, Parties, Luncheons and more.

5/14 Cathedral Drive, Independence Layout, Enugu info@aphrolounge.com Phone 080 5418 6612, 070 6647 3825, 07054509700 Open 9am-Midnight weekdays Club nights Wednesday, Friday & Saturday www.aphrolounge.com

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Balmaya Arts & Cafe (32B Main Motor Rd, Congo Cross).

BON APPETIT Aberdeen is home to many good restaurants. Dine on exemplary seafood and international cuisine at Alex’s Restaurant with a clear view over Man of War Bay (64 Cape Road, 23222 272957). There's a nightclub next door for night caps.

FREETOWN SIERRA LEONE

Despite recently emerging from a decade-long civil war, Freetown is blossoming rapidly.

Enjoy the nightlife and beaches before the tourists rush in, in their droves. Take in the 500-year-old cotton tree, a symbol of freedom since former slaves settled the town in the 1800s. Thousands of bats fly out en masse at dusk. From here, hop to the Sierra Leone National Museum. Take in views of the city from Tower Hill, ocean views from Lumley Beach and Krio architecture around Pademba Road.

BUY The Big Market on Wallace Johnson Street brims with bric-a-brac and traditional household goods. For a more streamlined selection check out

BED TIME Football fanatics should book the ‘Beckham Room’ at Hotel Barmoi named after their most famous hotel guest. The football star may have skipped town, however, the excellent amenities, pool and sea view remain (hotelbarmoi. com, 75C Cape Road, Aberdeen 232-22-234933). Budget travellers: check out Family Kingdom Resort on Lumley Beach Road which boasts – strangely but charmingly – extensive playgrounds and the wandering deer.

HIP TIP Sample Freetown’s ‘anything goes’ nightlife. Try Paddy’s Bar (Sir Samuel Lewis Road, 232 22 272 962). The club, which once entertained diamond dealers, UN troops and an exotic range of and sordid characters has a new lease of life, post-conflict. It now boasts a large dance floor, cheap drinks, seafront outside area, and great hip hop, West African and dance music to get you moving.

IBADAN NIGERIA

Ibadan is the largest city in Africa in terms of geographical mass; it was the former capital of Southwest Nigeria excluding Lagos, and currently the capital of Oyo State. Its historic significance in the affairs of the declining Oyo Empire have endowed it with a lot of places to see and its location at the edge of the Yoruba heartland makes it an ideal location for an exploration of the major Yoruba cities.

There is charm in the old colonial city seen in the sprawling rusty rooftops of its downtown houses, tropical weather and varied geography. Your itinerary should include visits to one or more of the city’s iconic landmarks: Mapo Hill, Irefin Palace, IITA Forest, The University of Ibadan and its Zoological & Botanical Gardens, Cocoa House, the Bower Memorial Tower, and

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GOMBE

Bauchi offers a more extensive range of eateries.

A confluence of economic activity, Gombe is positioned with Borno and Yobe to the north and east, Taraba and Adamawa to the south, and Bauchi to the west. Lying in the savannah lands of the Gongola River basin, Gombe has been a major agricultural centre since the railroad was built in 1963.

The State boasts captivating hilly scenery, best seen by driving along the Filiya – Kushi-Burak-Bangunji road to places like Tula, a historical town with an old prison and mud hut housing.

Gombe is predominantly Hausa-speaking with the Fulani in the centre and north and Tangale in the south. There are also numerous minority tribes each with their own language. The state has a population of over 2,300,000 and 11 separate administrative areas.

BED TIME The Gombe Holiday Inn on New Market Road is a good bet (Tel +234 72 20295) or try the A.Y Guest House on Dukka Road for budget accommodation.

NIGERIA

HIP TIP Yankari National Park, a short trip from Gombe, is a stunning hidden gem for wildlife watchers and is probably Nigeria’s best national park. Late December to May are good months to watch birds, buffalo, baboons and elephants. The park has a safari truck that takes tours at 7.30am and 3.30pm daily or you can drive your own vehicle. Kip at the nearby Wikki Warm Springs Hotel (077 542174).

BUY The traditional crafts of weaving and dyeing are common practise while modern textile manufacture began in the early ’70s. A tour of the markets and roadside stalls offer up endless colourful souvenirs.

BON APPETIT There are chop houses as well as hotel dining options however a trip to

Old Oyo National Park.

BUY Do your grocery shopping at the Agbowo Shopping Complex, opposite the University of Ibadan, in the city centre or the Big Treat Supermarket (+234 8 074 386 831) on Oluyole industrial estate. Local farmers and flea markets at Dugbe, Bodija and Mokola are also standout shopping spaces.

BON APETIT The most noteworthy spots in the city are the Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant (Premier Hotel, Mokola/+234 8 051 222 640), Kokodome Restaurant (Cocoa House, Dugbe/+234 0 275 10918) and the popular Mama Ope (Mokola/+234 8 0 6969 6141) for good, home cooked traditional Nigerian meals.

BED TIME Premier Hotel (+234 2 201 2345) is located on top of a hill in Mokola where visitors can see the city below. It offers a

range of services and recreation facilities including a swimming pool, restaurant, bar, car park, and internet access. Other choice hotels are Kakanfo Inn (+2342 2 311 471) and D Rovans (+234 275 08128) .

HIP TIP Be brave and jump on a bike for an urban adventure.

A journey from one end of the city to the other costs around N100. Okadas (motorcycle taxis) are cheap and are available everywhere.

WINGTIPS

ILORIN

Nigeria, and surrounded by lush rainforest.

NIGERIA

A sojourn to Alfa Alimi’s mosque would not go amiss if you are looking for some of the true local culture. Built in 1831, it is relatively undeveloped as a tourist destination but a beautiful example of the importance of Islam in the city and surrounding region. Further afield are the Owu Falls, the highest natural waterfall in

BUY Ilorin allegedly has the biggest traditional pottery workshop in Nigeria, so head to Okelele to find some great gifts for family and friends back home. Aso Oke textiles are also great traditional gifts from this area. You can find souvenirs at the Kwara State Council For Arts And Culture gallery.

BON APPETIT If you’re looking for Nigerian food, try the eba and okoro soup at the Royal Restaurant Ilorin (Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 31 741 666), whose bakery also sells pastries. During the day, enjoy a light meal at competitive prices at the Brunch Café Ilorin (9B Ahmadu Bello Avenue GRA; +234 805 569 4022). The meat pie comes recommended.

BEDTIME The Kwara Hotel (9A Ahmadu

Bello Avenue PMB 1476; 031740836;), 3 km from the airport, is ideal for the business traveller and others who are used to comfort. Leave time between meetings for a stint in the squash court and a dip in the pool before heading out after the day is done to the in-hotel nightclub. Closer to town is the Kingstone Grand Suites (7 Ahman Pategi Road; 07031184505; 08076553519), where you can drink at the in-house bar before heading to the restaurant for African or Chinese (or both, if you’re an adventurous eater). All rooms have air conditioning and satellite TV. HIP TIP Go to Shao for the colourful Awonga Festival. This fun-packed event is held every year in celebration of the River Awon, which is said to house a goddess who oversees the marriages of maidens during the festival.

JOS

NIGERIA

JOHANNESBURG SOUTH AFRICA

South Africa’s beating heart is a dramatic metropolis and stage for the ups and downs of a fascinating country. A trip on a City Slicker bus, which you can hop on and off at your leisure, will take you to major tourist attractions. Good places to hop off are Constitution Hill (constitutionhill.co.za) and Gold Reef City. In Ormonde you’ll find the illuminating Apartheid Museum (011 309 4700; www. apartheidmuseum.org), which is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 17:00.

BUY The City Slicker buses go past major shopping centres like Eastgate Mall on Bradford Road in Bedfordview (eastgateshops. com). Wire-work and other township-produced crafts make great gifts. Held every Sunday in Rosebank Mall’s multilevel car park, the Rosebank Rooftop Market has a great range. Head to

Sandton for upmarket shopping.

BON APPETIT Jo'burg caters for all tastes. Recommendations can be found at food24.com, a website that has an easily searchable database by cuisine and city, with customer reviews.

BED TIME No matter what your price range is, you have your pick of hotels in Johannesburg, but try to stay in the northern suburbs as the city centre can be dangerous at night. Good listings can be found at johannesburg-venues.co.za, which you can search by suburb, type of hotel, and star rating and which has a clickable area map. Tripadvisor.com is also a highlyreputable source for unbiased recommendations.

HIP TIP Want a good night out but trying to avoid the same old tourist traps? joeblog.co.za is a comprehensive daily look at what’s going on in Jo’burg.

The lush countryside surrounding Jos, especially the area around the plateau, is well worth a visit. In Jos itself, you’ll find an interesting exhibition on the pottery and artefacts of the central Nigerian people at the Jos National Museum, open daily from 8am to 5:30pm. A more unusual museum is the Museum of Traditional Nigerian Architecture, which houses impressive full-scale reproductions of the country’s monuments.

BUY Most consumer goods can be found at Terminus Market on Bauchi Road or between Bauchi Road and Ahmadu Bello Way. Leather and basket-work crafts are sold in the shops on Museum St, the south end of Beach Road, and on Noad Avenue.

BON APPETIT There isn't as large a selection of restaurants in Jos as in other cities. Bight of Benin (Zoo Garden Road) has a

selection of well-cooked authentic dishes and there are a smattering of Lebanese and Chinese restaurants.

BED TIME Rooms at the Hill Station Hotel (Tudun Wada Road; 073 455 300) have air conditioning, satellite TV, and tranquil surroundings. There are several guesthouses, most of which are comfortable and equipped with wifi and other amenities. These include Les Rosiers (1 Resthouse Road; 0803 357 5233; lesrosiers.sampasite. com) and Elim Suites (elimtopsuites.com).

Rooms are at a range of prices, but most are generally inexpensive.

HIP TIP Interested in ethical shopping?

You’ll be pleased to note there is a fairtrade craft shop run by the Alternative Trade Network of Nigeria (1 Museum Street; open from 8am to 5pm on Mondays to Fridays and on Saturdays from 10am to 5pm). Have a look at the goods on offer before you travel by going to fairtradenigeria.org. www.arikair.com

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KANO NIGERIA

KADUNA

knock back a few beers, a rarity in Kaduna.

The Kaduna National Museum (Alli Akilu Road) is open from 9am to 5pm every day. Of particular note is its Gallery Of Nigerian Prehistory, from Neolithic times, as well as the recreation of a Hausa village behind the museum.

BED TIME If you’re used to your creature comforts, go to Mohammed Buhari Way, where the best hotels are located.

The Command Guest House (Mohammed Buhari Way; 062 242 918; commandguesthouse@ yahoo.com), offers air conditioning, TV, and hot water.

You can also take advantage of its snooker room, and tennis and squash courts. A good option for the budget traveller is The Duncan (6 Katsina Road; 062 240 947) which has a good restaurant. Some of the 20 rooms have air conditioning and TV.

NIGERIA

BUY Although most of Kaduna’s market (off Ahmadu Bello Way) is given over to consumer goods, you can also find gifts for friends and family. Good things to buy are textiles, leather goods and Kaduna pottery.

BON APPETIT Sample traditional Northern Nigerian food at Food Palace (1 Alkali Road). For relaxing al fresco dining, head to Sou’s Place (2 Waziri Ibrahim Crescent; 0803 588 6404), where you can also

Built in the 15th century and declared a national heritage site, the Gidan Makama Museum holds ethnographic and historic exhibits on the Kanawa Civilization and Hausa Land.

The majestic Emir’s palace opposite the museum is also architecturally striking, but its interior is by invitation only.

Also go to the Kofar Mata Communal Dye Pits, which are a relic of Kano’s skin dyeing trade and the oldest in Africa (1498!).

BUY Go to Abubakar Rimi (Sabon Gari) Market for household items, jewellery and clothing. If you’re looking for gifts, Kurumi Market, founded in the 15th century, has brass, silver, stone and wood carvings, sculptures, and leather products. Textiles and fabric can be found at Kwari Market.

NIGERIA

Succumb to the all-consuming rhythm of Africa’s largest metropolis and discover one of the world’s most multi-faceted cities brimming with cultural curiosities, and some of the best music, art and literature to be found anywhere. Exciting developments are effecting the megacity from droves of diaspora Nigerians

returning home to a population bursting at the seams. Most of the best bars, restaurants, galleries, hotels and boutiques are on Victoria Island.

BUY For souvenirs, visit Lekki Market or try Quintessence (Suite C6, Falomo Shopping Center, Awolowo Road, Ikoyi, quintessenceltd.com). Head to Palms Shopping Mall for restaurants, a supermarket and international brands (BIS Way, Lekki – Lagos, 234 1 27144913, thepalmsshopping.com).

BON APPETIT Lagos is home to an ever increasing number of good restaurants.

Pick up a copy of Time Out Nigeria available at Quintessence gallery (see above) or check out www.lostinlagos.com for the latest listings and openings. If it’s authentic street food you’re looking for try

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BED TIME Business travellers enjoy Tahir Guest Palace Hotel, which has in-room WiFi, conference facilities, and a travel agent (4 Ibrahim Nastsugune Road; 234 64 315281; tahirguestpalace.com). Set in a quieter part of the city, is the Prince Hotel, with a pool and a well-rated restaurant (1 Tamandu Road; 234 64 200601; princehotelng.com) HIP TIP The annual Durbar Festival is a dazzling display of cultural and equestrian might held at the Emir’s palace to commemorate the Eid-el-Fitri and Eid-el-Kabir festivals.

HIP TIP Artisans in the back of Kaduna National Museum produce beautiful handloomed cloth, metalwork and other crafts.

These make for excellent gifts.

LAGOS

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BON APPETIT Relaxing drinks can be had at the French Cafe (Race Course Road). Good places to go for Nigerian dishes and meals from the rest of the continent are Ten-O-Five (Post Office Road) and Pounded Yam & Co (Lodge Road).

the suya at Ikoyi Hotel Ikoyi Hotel, Kingsway Rd, Ikoyi).

BED TIME Eko Hotel & Suites is a selfcontained expat hub (www.ekohotels.com, +234 1 262 4600 19). The Sofitel Lagos, in Ikoyi, is equally high-end (Bankole Oki Road, Ikoyi, +2341 4615 40922) as is The Federal Palace Hotel (26 Ahmadu Bello Way, Victoria Island, 1-262-3116). Of the boutique hotels Bogobiri Guesthouse is a favourite (9 Matatma Sule, Southwest Ikoyi, bogobirilagos.com , 270 7437). Another is Manuela’s Residence, a simple retreat with great Italian food (Taslim Elias Close V.l, manuelaresidence.com).

HIP TIP Pay homage to Afrobeat at The New African Shrine (1 Nerbc Street, Agidingbi, Ikeja). Sleep off Sunday at Bar Beach.

WINGTIPS

LONDON

UNITED KINGDOM London is one of the world’s most multicultural and creative cities, home to 7.5 million people, with 300 languages spoken and set against stunning historical

architecture.

Arm yourself with an A-to-Z map book available at most corner shops and an Oyster Card which allows you to travel easily on public transport. Take in the city from a double-decker bus and trawl free museums like the National Portrait Gallery, the British Museum, and Natural History Museum. Go for a night stroll along the South Bank or a whiz around the London Eye. Time Out London Online posts the day’s events in theatre, film, art, comedy, music and dining.

BUY Swing by Oxford Street for Topshop, Selfridges, and Liberty. Vintage lovers love Portobello Market in Notting Hill (Fridays) and East London’s Brick Lane.

BON APPETIT London is arguably the food capital of the world. It's impossible to

choose our favourites. Search for unbiased reviews at www.london-eating.co.uk.

Foodies adore Borough Market by London Bridge tube.

BED TIME Visit www.laterooms.com and www.lastminute.com for bargains.

Business travellers often choose the Hilton Paddington for its proximity to Central London and the Heathrow Express.

HIP TIP London’s a big city. Simplify airport transfers to and from wherever you are staying (+44 207 701 4321, Simplyairports.co.uk) leaving you free to enjoy the best of each season. Welcome Spring at Regent’s Park and late Summer at the Notting Hill Carnival. In Autumn, climb Primrose Hill for bonfire night.

Come Winter, ice skate at Somerset House.

MONROVIA LIBERIA

LUANDA ANGOLA

Perched on the Atlantic coast overlooking a narrow sandbar known colloquially as the Ilha, the hot oceanside setting of Angola’s capital city is a study in contrasts.

After decades of conflict, Luanda has seen a massive boom in construction where stability has attracted foreign investment in the city. The government is also investing heavily in and around Luanda, including in the construction of several six-lane highways leading out of the city; the reconstruction of railroad lines and a large new airport.

BUY Get local crafts at reasonably low prices at Benfica Handicrafts Market just south of Luanda. Other shopping sites include Maianga Luanda (+244 924 091680) and Belas Shopping, Angola’s first shopping mall. It features nearly 100 different

There is an understandable lack of tourist traps in Monrovia – but all the better to see the local flavour. The National Museum (Broad Street, open every week except Sunday and Monday) is worth a visit. About threequarters of its collection of 6,000 artefacts were looted during the war, so it is both an example of and a chronicler of Liberia’s recent history. shops, a cinema, restaurants, and a central square for live entertainment.

BON APPETIT If you’re in the mood for Portuguese cuisine, visit Portugalia (222 309677) located on the coastal Ilha de Luanda or the more international Restaurante Bordao (Avenue Murtala Mohamed Luanda, Ilha/222 309028) where the hip flock in the evenings.

BED TIME Four star guesthouse Rouxinol (+244 923 745 078/ +244 923 581 308, Beco de Moçambique no. 16, Bairro Cruzeiro), located near the embassies in Miramar is popular with foreign visitors.

Rooms start at $180 per night.

HIP TIP Wildlife park Kissama (also spelt Quiçama), situated 70km south of Luanda comprises a swathe of coastal savannah where elephants, water buffalo and sea turtles are easily accessible.

BUY Waterside Market (Mechlin Street) is definitely the place to go for souvenirs, especially beautiful textiles and intricatelymade handicrafts. The market is big and bustling, so it’s also a great place to people-watch. Be your own oasis with a cool drink as the frenetic atmosphere surges around you.

BON APPÉTIT There is an extensive array of good food in Monrovia, both on the street and in restaurants, especially around Sinkor. Liberian chop shops are as close as you can get to home cooking here, and fortunately they are located on almost every street. The long-standing Golden Beach restaurant (Tubman Boulevard) serves fine food and, as its name suggests, is a great place to grab a cocktail and watch the sunset.

BED TIME Business travellers will find comfort at The Cape

Hotel (Mamba Point; +231 77 006633; www.thecapehotel.com. lr), which offers internet and all other modern conveniences with a smile.

The restaurant here comes particularly recommended.

For comfy and affordable accommodation, the Mokos Bed and Breakfast (19th Street Payne Avenue; +231 11 23165 15897) is clean, homely, and very good value for money with TV, A/C, and internet included. By far the best thing about Mokos, though, is the good security and very friendly staff.

HIP TIP Head to Robertsport (Robert’s Port), a small fishing village near the Sierra Leone border, for some great surfing.

It is also the home of the Robertsport Community Works, which alongside its community outreach programs also offers eco-tourism, sea turtle rescue programmes and free yoga lessons. www.arikair.com

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BON APPETIT You can rely on hotel restaurants and chain fast food like Crunchies on ITC Junction and Mr.Biggs on Okigwe Road. There is also a good choice of Nigerian eateries on Ekwena Crescent off Wetheral Road including Best Lady, Renny’s Place and DE Simeons.

Williamsburg. Looking for something to take back home?

T-shirts and mugs emblazoned with the iconic ‘I Love NY’ logo make great souvenirs.

NEW YORK

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Places to sight-see are a dozento-the-dime in NYC . Don’t miss views of the Statue of Liberty from the free Staten Island Ferry (1 718 727 2508; www.siferry.com) and the Empire State Building (1 212 736 3100; www.esbnyc.com) or get lost in artistic reveries at the Museum of Modern Art (1 212 708 9400; moma.org) For those who want to get off the well-worn track try the numerous walking tours available. Official tourist information can be found at nycgo.com.

BUY New York is famous as a shopper’s paradise, and many flock to the big department stores like Macy’s (151 W 34th Street; macys.com), Barneys (660 Madison Avenue; barneys. com) and Bloomingdale’s (1000 Third Avenue; bloomingdales. com) for everything from designer duds to kitchenware.

Children will never want to leave the giant toy paradise FAO Schwarz (767 Fifth Avenue; fao. com). For hip boutiques, go to the Lower East Side and

BON APPETIT Order the pastrami on rye and recreate the “I’ll have what she’s having” scene from When Harry Met Sally at Katz’s Deli (1 212 254 2246; katzdeli.com). You’ll be hard pressed to go a block without finding an amazing restaurant selling everything from bialys and bagels to Michelin-starred cuisine.

Remember to tip well. Waiters earn much less than the minimum wage; 15 to 20 per cent of the bill is expected.

BEDTIME You are spoiled for choice with New York’s luxury hotels, one of the most famous of which is The Plaza (1 -212 759 3000; 1 800 759 3000; Fairmont. com/theplaza). Rooms start at $595 a night, though, so for cheaper options try newyorkhotels.com. A notable one is the Pod Hotel (1 212 355 0300; thepodhotel.com), where for $89 dollars a night you can have clean rooms with iPod stations, free WiFi and LCD TV. HIP TIP Things move fast in NYC. Find up-to-date information at Newyork. timeout.com. For deals on tickets visit lastminute.com.

OWERRI NIGERIA

The heart of Nigeria’s tropical Igboland and formerly the capital of the Republic of Biafra, the lush landscape of Owerri has a lot of natural and cultural attractions to lure visitors including outdoor activities around the Oguta Lake, hot springs, craft markets and ancient shrines. Reliable listings and updates can be found at www.imostate.gov.ng BUY Igbo arts and crafts are aplenty at Owerri’s Mbari Cultural Center, Eke Nguru in Aboh Mbaise and lgwekala Shrine in Umunoha.

BED TIME The city centre is home to an extensive range of accommodation, most located on or off Port Harcourt Road.

Two of the better mid-range options are the East Gate Hotel (eastgatehotelowerri.com, Plot C, Ugwu-Orju Layout, + 234 083 233560, 305387) and the recently opened Rockview Hotel which also has branches in Abuja and Lagos (Rockviewhotels.com) If you’re into 80s maximalist decor and Russian roulette, the sprawling Imo Concorde Hotel and Casino, 30 minutes from the airport off Port Harcourt Road has 203 rooms, each with a balcony, a business centre, bustling nightclub, conference rooms, sports facilities and of course, a casino.

HIP TIP Imo State plays host to vibrant festivals, dance performances and masquerades.

To find one that coincides with your visit, see the following website: imostate.gov.ng/ festivals.

has some of the best Chinese in town.

Sopranos Bar (7 Abacha Rd, 0803 312 3878) is a local favourite for night caps.

PORT HARCOURT NIGERIA

If time and flexibility is limited, head to Port Harcourt’s State Museum at the bottom of Azikwe Rd for outstanding examples of objects from the area’s ethnic groups, including colourful masks and utensils. There are also a few small parks throughout town. Port Harcourt is known

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throughout Nigeria as ‘the garden city.’

BUY There are supermarkets on Azikwe Rd and two markets in the Old Township including the bustling Creek Rd Market.

BON APPETIT For upmarket dining, eat at Ororo at Le Meridien Hotel. Hotel Presidential, on Aba Expressway houses Why Not Lebanese Restaurant, and 4,5,6

BED TIME Hotel Presidential is the city’s oldest and very popular with foreign visitors (GRA Phase II, Aba Road, +234 (0)84-461 500, hotel-presidential.com). Le Meridien Ogeyi Place is possibly Nigeria’s most luxurious hotel. Each room has a jacuzzi and there is a pool, spa and meeting rooms (45 Tombia Street, GRA Phase II, Port Harcourt, +234 84 461 770).

The Protea Hotel Garden City is another good business hotel (Km16 PH/Aba Expressway Port Harcourt, +234 84 465 700 proteahotels.com).

HIP TIP The Old Township by the waterfront is a bustling hive of activity and the most atmospheric and interesting part of town although going with a guide or local resident is recommended.

WINGTIPS

SOKOTO

terminal serves good Nigerian food. There is also a supermarket and Middle Eastern restaurant called Double 7 on Abdulahi Fodio Road. Don’t expect to find alcohol.

Northern Nigeria is an Islamic region with strict restrictions on nightlife and alcohol consumption.

NIGERIA

Located in the extreme northwest of Nigeria, Sokoto is the seat of the Sokoto Caliphate, and home of the Sultan of Sokoto, regarded as a spiritual leader to many Nigerian Muslims.

The proud and orderly town has a rich and colourful history. The Fulani are thought to have migrated there from Mali in the 13th century. In 1807, Usman Dan Fodio’s jihad led to the creation of the caliphate.

Historical sites of interest include the Sultan’s Palace, Shehu Mosque and Bello Mosque on Sultan Bello Road. The Waziri Junaidu History & Culture Museum on Alli Akilu Road is also worth a visit. The colonial era room contains fascinating – and amusing – artefacts including a throne given to the Sultan by Queen Elizabeth with a carving of a naked boy on it. The culturally insensitive chair had to be

BED TIME There are four or five hotels on and around Kano Rd. However service and amenities are not of a high standard. These include Giginya Hotel (060 231 262, Bypass Rd) and Shukura Hotel (060 230 006, 10 Kano Rd).

redesigned before the Sultan could sit on it.

BUY Shopping is limited although roadside stalls sell a range of textiles and food. One would be better off ambling through Sokoto Central Market, an adventure in itself.

BON APPETIT The Young Shall Grow bus

HIP TIP Time your journey to coincide with the legendary Argungu Fishing Festival, easily the world’s most visually explosive fishing event. Thousands of participants compete to catch fish in the Matan Fada River, diving in to wrestle the fish with their bare hands – some weighing upwards of 50 kilos. Fringe events include wrestling and a parade.

find in the Akpan Andam Market or the Entrepreneurial Village.

BON APPETIT Try the delicious afang soup, featuring smoked fish and shredded afang, and ekpang nkukwo, made from two types of yam and yam leaves. You can get these and other dishes at the amusingly named Oliver Tweest (Dominic Utuk Avenue), which is also good for breakfast. Please, sir, can I have some more?

UYO

NIGERIA Satisfy your inner historian at the Uyo Museum (Wellington Bassey Way). Beach lovers can head to the Ibeno Beach, farther afield but worth the journey. Ask your concierge for directions on how to get there.

BUY Akwa Ibom state is famous for its raffia creations, with everything from baskets to ties made out of the fibre – it’s evidently more versatile than most people think. Good souvenirs also include textiles from Uyo’s textile mill, and handicrafts, all of which you can

BEDTIME Lovers of luxury will revel at the brand new Le Meridien Ibom (234 0 708 0660; Nwaniba Road PMB 1200). The resort offers everything you’d expect from the Starwood Group, along with a golf club and riverside marina. Those who want clean, comfortable surroundings but don’t want to empty their pockets too quickly should try the Tevo Hotel (+234 852 00694; 41 Udoh Street), which is cheap and cheerful.

HIP TIP If you’re lucky, you can catch a show by the Ekemini Dance Group, which builds on Akwa Ibom State’s tradition of dance and drama. The group’s performers come from all ages and walks of life. Most performances are arranged around major events in the traditional calendar.

WARRI

Uvwie Modern Market is also worth a visit.

Warri is a predominantly Christian oil city in Delta State with a population that has increased rapidly since the oil boom in the 1960s. The city developed as a port during the late 1800s, when it became a centre for the palm oil trade and other major items such as rubber, cocoa, groundnuts, hides, and skins. Warri has a vibrant culture and kind people.

A good way to spend a weekend is a visit to Abraka Beach, 30 minutes away from Warri by car. The beach is famous for its natural flowing spring water, and recreational facilities including canoeing, golf, fishing, and swimming.

BON APPETIT Most hotels have decent restaurants and there are a handfull of fast-food joints and Nigerian eateries on Effurun Rd.

NIGERIA

BUY Warri’s main market is an incredible site to behold. Weave your way through colourful vendors touting fruit, vegetables, ankara textiles and more.

BED TIME Thanks to the number of oil companies operating in the area, there are a lot of hotels in the Effurun neighbourhood. Of the larger hotels, Hotel Excel (Refinery Rd, Effurun, www.hotel-excel.com) is quite professional. A step down but equally comfortable is the Godatin Hotel Number 2, Ayoro Lane, Off Enerhen Rd, www.godatinhotelslimited.com).

HIP TIP Wetin you dey talk? Try learning a few phrases in Pidgin, the common language of Warri.

Warri pidgin is famous throughout Nigeria for being expressive and authentic. Its superstrate is English with influences from dialects like Hausa, Yoruba and Igbo. www.arikair.com

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WINGTIPS

YOLA NIGERIA

The capital of Adamawa State is a spacious town on the banks of the Benue. Formerly the capital of the Fulani State until the British arrived in 1901, the town is divided in to two parts, the old town and administrative centre, Jimeta. Yola is also home to the American University Of Nigeria.

BUY Yola is an easily navigable town where most of what’s available is visible on the roadside including textiles, fruit and vegetables.

BON APPETIT Choice is limited. The Pool Bar Restaurant on Garkida Road on the north side of Jimeta has a choices of dishes, a garden and cold drinks. Dreams on 13 Atiku Abubakar Road next to the police roundabout serves burgers, chicken and other fast food standards.

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adventurers will be rewarded with an experience to remember.

HIP TIP 6700 square kilometres of mountainous forest and savannah land border Cameroon. The area is now Gashaka-Gumpti National Park, site of a major World Wildlife Fund project and home to chimps, lions, elephants, leopards and hartebeests. There is simple accomodation in Serti, a village on the Yola – Gembu road where rangers and vehicles are available to hire. The trip is not for those who like creature comforts, but

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BED TIME Located across the road from AUN and the new Federal Law School, AUN Hotel opened in 2012. It's wellmaintained, tastefully decorated and comprises a conference center and spa, (AUN Hotel, 228 Modibbo Adama Way, 0805 870 5555, www.aunhotel.com).

While most hotels are located in Jimeta, 5km north of the city centre. Jokems Airport View Hotel, (075 627127, jokemsairportviewhotel.com, 9 Gumti Rd, Kofare Industrial Area) is near the airport.

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