WITH Love FROM IRELAND
ONE EXTRAORDINARY WEEK IN IRELAND WAS THE PERFECT WAY TO CELEBRATE TWENTY YEARS OF MARRIAGE. WITH A LONG-HELD ‘GRÁ’ FOR VISITING THE EMERALD ISLE, LAURA AND GRIFF HAMLIN FINALLY TICKED IT OFF THEIR BUCKET LIST. WHAT THEY EXPERIENCED WAS ABOVE AND BEYOND THEIR WILDEST EXPECTATIONS.
The story began in Dublin, Ireland’s vibrant capital. Because the city would frame their trip at both the beginning and the end, The couple wanted something with character and heart rather than a generic place to stay. They chose The Castle Hotel, a familyrun gem tucked behind its famous red Georgian door. Dating back to the 18th century, it is the city’s oldest hotel, and its reputation for hospitality and old-world charm made it the perfect base within walking distance of so many highlights. At night, after busy days of exploring, the Castle Vaults bar was alive with music and dancing - right up Laura and Griff’s alley as seasoned performers who know a thing or two about putting on a show.
The couple wasted no time diving into Dublin’s treasures. They ducked into The Brazen Head, which proudly claims to be Ireland’s oldest pub, dating back to 1198. The low ceilings and dark beams were thick with history, and over a hearty meal they soaked up the atmosphere of centuries past. Afterward, they wandered through the lively streets, crossing the River Liffey to Jameson Distillery in Bow Street, where a whole menu of experiences
awaited. Visitors can choose from guided tours, premium tastings, and even blending sessions, but Laura and Griff opted for a cocktail-making class. Mixing whiskey sours and old fashioneds under expert guidance was an experience they knew they’d never forget, and for Laura, a dab hand at cocktail making, it was a thrill to sharpen her skills and pick up a few new tricks.
Westward Bound
The next morning began with a train bound for Galway. Few things feel more romantic than train travel in Ireland: the steady rhythm of the carriages, green fields unfurling outside the window, and the anticipation of arriving somewhere completely new - all while enjoying the ease of free WiFi on board.
Galway, known as “The City of the Tribes,” was everything they had hoped for and more. Bursting with energy, its streets dazzled with painted shopfronts, traditional pubs, and craft stores showcasing local design. Buskers played on every corner, their songs weaving into the chatter of outdoor cafés, while the salty air from
Galway Bay added a freshness and vitality that made every moment feel alive.
Strolling along Shop Street and Quay Street, with their colorful shopfronts and lively craft stores, Laura and Griff couldn’t resist picking up traditional Aran sweaters, how could you not when visiting the very region that made them famous? The chunky knits felt timeless, practical, and distinctly Irish, cozy reminders of a city that had already won their hearts. Sweaters in hand, they wandered on toward the Claddagh, the historic fishing village where the famous ring was first made.
No visit to Galway would be complete without a stop at the Claddagh, the old fishing village where the famous ring was first crafted in the 17th century. Symbolizing love, loyalty, and friendship, the Claddagh ring has long been a treasured keepsake. Worn with the heart
pointing outward, it signals that the wearer is free; turned inward, it shows the heart is taken. For Laura and Griff, celebrating over twenty years together, the rings were perfect to mark the occasion; simple and meaningful.
Take to the Islands
The following day, the journey deepened. From Galway Docks, they boarded an Aran Island Ferries boat to Inis Mór (Aran Mór), the largest of the Aran Islands. The ferry ride itself was part of the adventure, with the sea air whipping across the deck like a windswept kiss and anticipation building with every mile. It was a bit early in the day for Irish coffee, but that didn’t stop fellow passengers from indulging in the classic pick-me-up, adding a dash of warmth to the crossing.
As the ferry eased into Kilronan Harbor, the rhythm of island life immediately kicked in:
fishing boats bobbing in the water, stone walls stretching as far as the eye could see, and the salty tang of the ocean hanging in the breeze. Waiting to whisk them off on their next adventure was Padraig from Aran Offroad Experiences. A native islander full of wit and charm, Padraig knew every twist and turn in the road, from hidden ruins to windswept clifftops. The allterrain jeep brought them to places most visitors never see. Along the way, Padraig peppered the journey with stories that had them laughing, listening, and completely swept up in the moment.
Next up was an absolute must see, Dún Aonghasa, the island’s prehistoric stone fort perched dramatically on cliffs that drop sheer to the ocean. Thought to date back more than 3,000 years, it has been likened to the Cliffs of Moher - and some say the two were once connected. Standing
on the edge of these vast limestone walls, the sense of awe and the immensity was overwhelming, a collision of past and present that felt timeless.
From there, the tour built to a final highlight at the Wormhole (Poll na bPéist), a natural limestone pool carved with geometric precision by the ocean. Both eerie and magnificent, it was all the more extraordinary knowing it has hosted the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series several times. Standing on its edge, with waves surging into the pool below, the Hamlins felt dwarfed by the grandeur of nature. By the time they returned to the ferry, the Aran Islands had cast their spell: vivid, elemental, and unforgettable.
As the boat cut across the waves toward Galway, the horizon shifted and another marvel rose before their eyes: the Cliffs of
Moher, revealed in their staggering scale from the sea. Towering more than 700 feet above the water, the cliffs stretched endlessly along the horizon, their dark limestone faces streaked with green and gold where grasses clung to impossible ledges. The roar of waves mingled with the cries of thousands of seabirds wheeling and diving in a chaotic ballet. Puffins, razorbills, and guillemots darted across the sky as the couple gazed upward in awe. It was not just a view but an immersion, like witnessing the raw pulse of Ireland itself etched into stone and sea.
Back in Galway that night, they slept deeply, the day’s adventures still alive in their minds. And while it was hard to imagine Ireland offering more, the journey
was far from over. Ahead lay the Kingdom of Kerry, where the next chapter of their adventure promised landscapes every bit as stirring.
The Kingdom
To see Kerry is to see Ireland at its most majestic, a place long described as the kingdom of landscapes. From Galway, the family traveled south to Killarney, gateway to the famous Ring of Kerry. Most travelers do ‘The Ring’ by car or tour bus, but the Hamlins chose a more immersive approach. Rather than simply passing through, they experienced the Kerry ring as it was meant to be savored - by water, by horsepower, and on foot, in step with the land’s natural pace.
It was not just a view but an immersion, like witnessing the raw pulse of Ireland itself etched into stone and sea.
The tour started with a short bus ride from Killarney to Kate Kearney’s Cottage, a 150-year-old thatched inn that was once the home of a woman famed for her beauty and her poitín (a potent Irish spirit). Today, the cottage serves as a welcoming stop for travelers, its thatched roof and rustic charm evoking an older Ireland. Inside, the scent of turf fires mingles with the chatter of visitors, while snacks, tea, and coffee offer a chance to refuel before the journey ahead. It is here that guests climb aboard jaunting cars, traditional horse-drawn carriages unique to Killarney, where the drivers, with their easy banter and quick wit, set the tone for the journey. Clip-clopping slowly into the spectacular Gap of Dunloe, they passed craggy mountains, glassy lakes, and
valleys carved by glaciers. It rained, but the shifting light and ever-changing views only made the landscape more dramatic, and nothing could dampen their spirits.
At the head of the Gap, they transferred to open boats for a voyage across the Lakes of Killarney, gliding over still waters framed by oak woods and rugged hills, with the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks rising in the distance. Their boatmen, locals who know every bend in the river, laced the journey with cheerful banter until the towers of Ross Castle appeared on the shoreline. Built in the 15th century by the O’Donoghue chieftains, it was among the last strongholds in Munster to fall during Cromwell’s conquest. Once thought impregnable, it finally surrendered when enemy forces crossed the lake in boats, a chilling reminder of that ruthless campaign to break the Irish spirit. Today, Ross Castle stands restored at the water’s edge, a proud monument to resilience and a dramatic finale to a voyage across the Killarney lakes.
Feel the Force
From Ross Castle, the day was far from over. Back at the starting point, local guide Mary Quigley was waiting, picnic in hand. Warm and knowledgeable, Mary seemed to know every lane and landmark of the Kerry landscape. She whisked them off to Rossbeigh Beach, a vast seven-kilometer stretch of golden sand, where the shifting tides and ever-changing light make the landscape feel alive. In the quiet beauty of its splendid isolation, a lone picnic bench seemed almost out of place, yet it proved the perfect spot to enjoy fresh rolls, local cheeses, and home-baked scones. Rested and recharged, the next stop was the colorful village of Portmagee.
Portmagee is a postcard-perfect fishing village with plenty of character and the honor of being the jumping-off point for the Skellig Islands. Laura and Griff were joined on the trip by two of their three sons, and for the boys the name carried a special spark. The village itself is named after Captain Magee, a pirate who once roamed these waters. With Magee blood in their family line, the brothers loved the idea that a trace of that swashbuckling spirit might run through their veins.
That evening, the family settled in for dinner at The Moorings, an award-winning guesthouse with an excellent seafood restaurant and bar. During filming of The Force Awakens on nearby Skellig Michael, members of the Star Wars cast and crew stayed here, and Mark Hamill even poured pints in the Bridge Bar. Today the place still hums with that legacy. Visitors can sit where Jedi once gathered or pick up a “May the Force Be With You” T-shirt, a playful reminder that these quiet shores were, for a time, part of a galaxy far, far away.
Skellig Michael - A Galaxy Far, Far Away The next morning, the family boarded a boat bound for Skellig Michael. As the jagged rock rose from the Atlantic, it was easy to see why filmmakers chose it as Luke Skywalker’s remote refuge. The climb
of more than 600 steps is not for the fainthearted, but the effort is rewarded with the sight of an ancient monastic settlement, a place so dramatic it feels otherworldly.
For Star Wars fans, the reward carried yet another thrill. Standing at the windswept summit, the family found themselves in the very spot where Rey handed Luke Skywalker his lightsaber in The Force Awakens. To witness it with their own eyes, in the dramatic setting where the saga had been brought to life, was nothing short of breathtaking. It felt surreal, as if the screen itself had dissolved and they were suddenly part of the story.
The descent was quieter, each step carrying the weight of what they had just experienced at the summit. The cliffs were alive with sound and movement: seabirds wheeling overhead while countless puffins with vivid orange beaks stood out brightly against the mossy green slopes. Surrounded by such wild energy, the family were reluctant to leave. Yet, as they finally stepped onto the boat and watched Skellig Michael’s silhouette fade into the horizon, they knew they had touched something
Standing at the windswept summit where Rey handed Luke his lightsaber was nothing short of breathtaking, as if the screen had dissolved and they had stepped into the story.
extraordinary - a place where raw nature and cinematic legend come together in unforgettable fashion.
That night in Portmagee, the drama of the day gave way to a different kind of wonder. With no light pollution to dim the view, the stars shone in sharp, brilliant detail. This corner of Kerry forms part of a Dark Sky Reserve, and overhead the heavens stretched vast and unbroken, a reminder that in Kerry you don’t just feel the force of nature, you feel The Force itself.
The following morning their trusted tour guide Mary arrived to collect the family for
the journey back to Dublin, with time to savor a last taste of Kerry’s beauty along the way. Their route took them across the water by ferry, skimming past Valentia Island where some of the earliest fourlegged creatures (tetrapods) are preserved in stone. Dating back 385 million years, these tracks mark a pivotal step in the history of life on Earth, a humbling reminder that Ireland’s landscape carries the imprint of evolution itself.
Safely back in Killarney, where the train would carry them to Dublin (with Mary’s homemade muffins tucked away for the journey), the family settled into their seats,
still replaying the days behind them. They had come in search of Ireland seen more than they ever imagined - moments of beauty and awe woven into memories they knew would stay with them forever.
A Final Toast in Dublin
That evening the family returned to the welcoming embrace of The Castle Hotel, just as they had on their first night in Ireland. Fittingly, it was also the very day of Laura and Griff’s anniversary, and the hotel rolled out the red carpet to mark the occasion. The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, they set off to enjoy Dublin one
last time. They strolled up Grafton Street, Dublin’s bustling shopping avenue alive with buskers, before reaching leafy St. Stephen’s Green, where they boarded the Viking Splash Tour. Outfitted in horned helmets, they joined their fellow “Vikings” in roaring at amused passersby as the amphibious vehicle trundled through the streets before making its dramatic splash into the Grand Canal Basin.
Having roared through Dublin as Vikings they had worked up a thirst, so it was only fitting to close the journey at the home of Ireland’s most famous export. A short
15-minute walk brought them to the Guinness Storehouse, the country’s most visited attraction. There, they followed the story of “the black stuff,” from Arthur Guinness’s first brew in the 18th century to its rise as a global icon. The highlight was a pint-pouring class, learning the ritual of the perfect pour. Then came the crowning moment: creamy pints in the panoramic Gravity Bar, with Dublin spread out beneath them. Raising their glasses, Laura and Griff toasted twenty years of marriage, one extraordinary week, and the certainty that Ireland was a place they would return to time and again.
Clinking glasses high above the city, they toasted twenty years of marriage, one extraordinary week, and the certainty that Ireland was a place they would return to time and again.
