Kinkle-A Magazine By BUTEX Science Club

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A Magazine by BUTEX Science Club

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BUTex Science Club Estd: 2014

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Advisory Board Chief Advisor Prof. Dr. Shah Alimuzzaman, CText FTI Director (Student Welfare)

Advisors Prof. Dr. Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan, Head, Dept. of Apparel Engineering Prof. Dr. Hosne Ara Begum, Head, Dept. of Yarn Engineering Prof. Dr. Mohammad Ali, Head, Dept. of Industrial & Production Engineering Dr. Md. Forhad Hossain, Head, Dept. of Wet Process Engineering Md. Ahashan Habib, Head, Dept. of Textile Engineering Management Shilpi Akter, Head, Dept. of Fabric Engineering Rebeka Sultana, Head, Dept. of Textile Fashion Design Md. Asaduz-Zaman, Head, Dept. of Textile Machinery Design and Maintenance

Industrial Advisors Ehsanul Karim Kaiser

Executive Director Esquire Group (Textile Division)

Md. Shah Alam

Director (Operation) Cotton Group

Md. Shahidul Hasan

Director (Operation) Amber Denim Ltd Amber Denim mills Ltd Amber Group

Technical Advisors Dr. Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Wet Process Engineering Dewan Murshed Ahmed, Lecturer, Dept. of Fabric Engineering Md. Mazedul Islam, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Apparel Engineering Md. Arif Iqbal, Lecturer, Dept. of Textile Engineering Management

Technical Team Md. Reajul Islam, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Yarn Engineering A T M Faiz Ahmed, Lecturer, Dept. of Fabric Engineering Salima Sultana Shimo, Lecturer, Dept. of Industrial & Production Engineering

Editorial Board Editor-in-Chief

Dr. Ummul Khair Fatema

Associate Professor, Dept. of Wet Process Engineering

Editor

Md. Shah Miran Munshi

Dept. of Apparel Engineering

Executive Editor Afsana Mobin

Dept. of Fabric Engineering

Co-ordinator

Arafat Munna

Dept. of Yarn Engineering

Associate Editors Zahirul Islam

Dept. of Apparel Engineering

Rahat Alam Dept. of Wet Process Engineering

Assistant Editors

Ahamed Hossain Bappy Dept. of Fabric Engineering

Maherunnesa

Dept. of Fabric Engineering

Md. Sohanur Rahman Sobuj

Dept. of Apparel Engineering

Abdullah Al Shams Tamim Dept. of Apparel Engineering

Team Members

Md. Abdus Salam Rahat Jamil Md. Atiqul Islam Azmir Shabib Refun Tasnim Mahmud Abir

Cover design

Kibriya Munna

Design & Print

Ornate care 01924819578

Published By

BUTEX Science Club

Message Vice-Chancellor

It is a great pleasure to see “KINKLE”, the magazine by BUTEX Science Club finally being published.

The alacrity of the students who worked day and night to publish this magazine is admirable. They have been able to accomplish their intended task due to their strong will power and diligence.This is exactly the spirit that is required for the continuous progress of a university and I am proud to see this among our students. I hope this particular publication will leave many of the other students with an inspiring note.

In myriad number of ways, we try to motivate our students to be distinct in terms of character, nature, skills and knowledge. We aspire to educate them to develop not only academically but also morally as well as intellectually. Our goal is to help them acquire both knowledge and wisdom. And in order to achieve that, students’ involvement in co-curricular activities such as games and sports, social works, research based activities, publications etc. is necessary. BUTEX Science Club has taken a great step in this regard through this publication. I believe everyone will find something to learn from this magazine.

This magazine is certainly an important addition to the activities in the infancy of the club. I consider all of our students to be the leaders of the future textile world. A science club as well as the club activities can play a huge role in providing the future leaders with the scopes to learn, observe, discover and disseminate their findings all around. Moreover, involvement with a publication from an early age will surely enrich their books of experience.

I am very much optimistic that it will go a long way, stimulating the students and the Alumni members to contribute to further innovations and will also encourage them to chase their dreams.I would like to appreciate the organizing members from the core of my heart for their efforts in establishing this club and hence expanding various club activities. Receive my heartfelt congratulations on the publication of “KINKLE’’.

Professor Engr. Mashud Ahmed Vice-Chancellor Bangladesh University of Textiles

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Message Chief Advisor

I am very glad to know that BUTEX Science Club is going to publish their first ever magazine. Every club publishes a magazine to reveal their activities. From that perspective, I would like to congratulate the club members for their initiative.

Although it has not been long since the club started its journey, it has already started making its contributions to the science-based activities in the campus which is, indeed, commendable. Through this publication, our students and Alumni members are getting the scope to congregate all of their ideas and knowledge and share the same platform together. This culture was needed to be built up. And now when I see my students trying to establish and nurture such a culture, it gives me immense pleasure.

In the present context of our country, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Textileâ&#x20AC;? is an important sector through which we earn around 80% of our foreign exchange. Quite a huge number of people in our country are directly or indirectly dependent on this sector. Hence development of this sector is a must. The development of this sector largely depends on our young soldiers; the would-be Textile Engineers. Therefore, we do have certain liabilities towards helping them reach their intended goals.

Our present government has been emphasizing greatly on scientific works in order to build a Digital Bangladesh. To be technologically developed, there is no alternative to scientific research. To attain this development, our young generation needs to come forward. Club activities side by side the regular academic studies can help our youngsters grow both intellectually and morally. So, such activities should be encouraged in every educational institution.

Lastly, I would like to wish BUTEX Science Club and its members all the very best from the bottom of my heart with this publication and with their future activities as well.

Prof. Dr.Shah Alimuzzaman Belal Director (Student Welfare) Bangladesh University of Textiles.

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Message Moderator BUTEX Science Club

Science club is a platform for developing the knowledge,concerns and expertness in different scientific and technical arenas. It has the objectives of cultivation of an awareness of science, familiarization of the student with scientific research, encouragement of creative thinking and involvement of students in scientific research based activities under the supervision and the guidance of the teachers.

BUTEX Science Club was formed with a view to encouraging and cultivating the students’ interest in learning science, engineering and technology. “KINKLE” is the very first publication by BUTEX Science Club and I am, indeed, delighted to see my students taking this initiative.

I always try to support the science enthusiasts with knowledge and experience. So, when the students approached me with the idea of forming a “science club” I gladly welcomed them. In this little span of time, the club accomplished quite a number of projects. This magazine is another milestone in the series of its activities.

This magazine aims at covering the ideas, thoughts, new findings,research as well as review works of the students and the Alumni members of BUTEX, news and views of the pioneers, the present status and the problems related to our textile sector. I hope it will motivate the students to carry out research based activities, promote inquisitiveness and inculcate scientific temper among them. It is an outstanding initiative taken by the club members and I wish it to be auspicious and successful.

I am very much hopeful of the success of this magazine for I have seen how much effort my dear science-maniac students have put in this publication. I hope they keep up this spirit and I wish them all the very best from the core of my heart.

Md. Samiul Islam Chowdhury Assistant Professor Department of Chemistry Bangladesh University of Textiles

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Message Moderator BUTEX Science Club

I am glad to see â&#x20AC;&#x153;KINKLEâ&#x20AC;? being published by BUTEX Science Club. A science based magazine works as a mirror to bring forth the achievements of science in front of everyone and I believe this type of magazine will encourage the students to learn new things and make new discoveries.

Bangladesh is a developing country. At present, a major share of the foreign currency in our country is being earned by the textile sector.The socio-economic condition of our country is influenced by this sector as it solves various problems by creating employment and women empowerment, reducing child labor, eliminating gender discrimination and so on. RMG sector here has created employment for more than 4.2 million people. 16% of the GDP and 75% of the foreign currency have been being earned from this sector. Scientific application of machines and materials along with low labor cost make this sector beneficial to our country.

New ideas and thoughts generated by the students can give a proper guideline to develop this sector.

Scientific incorporation of different branches of engineering will accelerate reaching the final goal.

Hence students should be given the platform to express themselves in a creative manner. And a magazine can serve as such a platform.

Being one of the club moderators, I am very grateful to everyone who has given thought, time and influence towards the materialization of this science-based magazine. I would like to express my gratitude towards the authors who have contributed to this publication through their meaningful ideas as well as write-ups.

Their willingness to openly describe knowledge, share experiences and confront their concepts is appreciable.

I hope this magazine will inspire the young students to think more about science and to discover new things.

Md. Abu Sayeed Biswas Lecturer Department of Industrial & Production Engineering Bangladesh University of Textiles

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Editor-in-Chief BUTEX Science Club has been trying to circulate a motto of not only studying textiles but also making assimilations at the same time.

In simple words, the club has been working to create a platform for helping the knowledge-seekers express their earned knowledge in the form of various activities. I presume that “KINKLE” will be a greater addition in this respect. It is true that this is the very first publication by the club but as an Editor-in-Chief, I can say that the students have shown immense courage and versatility in taking this publication to another level. They, indeed, deserve to get a round of applause for their initiative and effort.

Dr. Ummul Khair Fatema

Actually, the main purpose here is to make an inception; an inception towards having the current students and the Alumni members share the same platform where they can express their views, opinions, works and talents. An up-to-date presentation of textile-based knowledge has been highly encouraged in this magazine.

I am very happy to be associated with “KINKLE”. In fact, I feel privileged for getting the opportunity to guide such enthusiastic youngsters throughout this publication.I hope this magazine reaches the peak of success and every reader gets benefited and enlightened by this.

On behalf of the Magazine Committee, I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to this publication this way or the other.

Especially, I would like to thank all of our advisors for enhancing the beauty of this magazine through their valuable suggestions. I would also like to convey my gratefulness to the Alumni members for cooperating with this publication. Last but not the least; I would like to congratulate all my students who have worked tirelessly forbringing this publication into accomplishment.

I hope that the readers love this magazine. Best wishes for every textile enthusiast out there. Happy reading!

Dr. Ummul Khair Fatema Associate Professor Department of Wet Process Engineering Bangladesh University of Textiles

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Editorial I am really glad to present to you “KINKLE”, the magazine by BUTEX Science Club. We had to work really hard to put this magazine together. The journey that we had undertaken was no less than an adventure.

BUTEX Science Club was formed in 2014 with a view to revealing and sharing our knowledge in science, engineering and technology.

Our goal was to create a milieu for the students where they can search for information and hence make new innovations. We do not know how much accomplished we should consider ourselves to be, but yes, we have been trying our level best to bring significant changes in the campus culture. This publication is yet another step towards making such a change.

Md. Shah Miran Munshi

I hope everyone will enjoy the variety of topics that we have selected among the streams of articles in order to make this magazine more versatile. The editorial team had worked relentlessly on reviewing the articles. The articles had been reviewed extensively to avoid any sort of mistake. However, even after that if you find any, we apologize in advance. The graphics & design team had also put in best of their efforts to make sure that we present a quality magazine.

So, I really hope everyone likes it.

We are looking forward to publishing this magazine every year. I hope this publication will bring the Alumni members and the students a little closer. There is no alternative to brotherhood, cooperation and coordination if we want to ensure a sound industry.

My deep-felt thanks to our Honorable Vice Chancellor, Prof. Engr.

Mashud Ahmed sir; honorable Registrar, Prof. Monirul Islam sir; our Chief Advisor, Prof. Dr. Shah Alimuzzaman sir; Prof. Dr. Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan sir; Prof. Dr. Hosne Ara Begum ma’am; Prof. Dr. Mohammad Ali sir; Dr. Md. Forhad Hossain sir; Rebeka Sultana ma’am; Shilpi Akter ma’am; Md. Ahashan Habib sir and Md. Asaduz-Zaman sir for encouraging this publication. And my gratitude towards our industrial advisors- Ehsanul Karim Kaiser sir, Md. Shah Alam sir and Md. Shahidul Hasan sir for staying with us.

Inspiration from their side encouraged us to keep going.

I would also like to thank our mentors Dr. Ummul Khair Fatema ma’am, Md. Reajul Islam sir, A T M Faiz Ahmed sir, Dr. Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir sir, Dewan Murshed Ahmed sir, Md. Mazedul Islam sir, Salima Sultana Shimo ma’am and Md. Arif Iqbal sir for being our constant support starting from the day one till the very end.

Finally, I would like to thank all the editorial members who had put their amicable efforts to make this publication successful. It was an honor working with them.

We hope that our readers love our work. Please do feel free to provide us with your valuable feedback if you have got any.

Thank you!

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BUTEX Science Club and Club Activities â&#x20AC;&#x153;BUTEX Science Clubâ&#x20AC;? was established in 2014 with a view to analyzing and discovering the various roles that science has got to play in the gradual advancement of Textile Engineering and Technology throughout the world and hence get our own country acquainted with those discoveries. This club organizes various seminars, events and workshops from time to time where the enthusiastic students present their ideas and works. Seminars and workshops of this sort are also essential for shedding some light on the aspects and prospects of textile engineering throughout the world. The club also arranges industrial tours for its members so that they can get access to practical knowledge and experience apart from their bookish knowledge. In short, the club aims at facilitating the students with an undeterred platform so that they can work and bring out their talents as well. This may result in groundbreaking innovations in our textile sector and may also earn BUTEX worldwide recognition.

Hybrid Pirn Winding Machine It was the first project of BUTEX Science Club. Though it was an unaccomplished project this was the very first project from which the members gained experience and enthusiasm. We almost devised our plan for this project but due to insufficient equipments and budget we had to abort it. It could be more speedier than the normal pirn winding machine. Anowar Hossen (39th batch) helped us with valuable insights in this project.

Programming Workshop In order to develop the knowledge in programming among the students, the club arranged this workshop. It was a three months long workshop.

It was held in our computer laboratory. Through this workshop, we earned practical knowledge on C programming and Python language. This workshop was led by Mahfuz Ahmed (39th Batch).

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Yarn Manufacturing Workshop After the programming workshop, we arranged a â&#x20AC;&#x153;Yarn Manufacturing Workshopâ&#x20AC;? to know about the yarn manufacturing machinery. We came to learn how new machines are developed. More than 24 members of science club attended the workshop. We have got plans to arrange such workshops in future as well.

Textile Dictionary App BUTEX Science Club had to go through two stages for developing this app. In the first stage, it had insufficient words and was not up to the mark. Afterwards, through dedication and hard work, the members succeeded to develop this Android App which contains more than ten thousand textile terms with their explanations.

It took us one and a half years to make this app.

Club members from the 41st and 42nd batches contributed to this project. This dictionary is supposed to be from updated time to time.

Seminar on Science Club Motto It was held in September, 2015. All the members and moderators got together in this seminar. The guests and the moderators put forward their views and opinions on how to enhance the club activities and also motivated the members to come up with more innovative ideas.

Fresherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Quiz 2015 A quiz competition was organized for the freshers.

This was the first ever quiz competition arranged by the club. The club still organizes such competitions and intends to organize some in future as well.

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Brain Challenge 2016 It was yet another quiz competition organized by the club. More than 530 students from 41st and 42nd batches participated in this competition. We brought out 10 students in focus in this competition. This competition came into accomplishment under the guidance of our beloved teachers, Dewan Murshed Ahmed sir and Md. Mazedul Islam sir. The students of the 40th batch hosted this competition. All of our faculty members, especially Md. Syduzzaman sir and our moderators Md. Samiul Islam Chowdhury sir and Md. Abu Sayeed Biswas sir encouraged us a lot in this.

Tanvir Ahmed Rana, Champion Department of Fabric Engineering, 42 Batch

Md. Tusher Hasan, 1st runner up Department of Fabric Engineering 41 Batch

Md. Jahid Hasan Rifat, 5th position

Husainul Akbar, 2nd runner up Department of Apparel Engineering 42 Batch

Md. Emdadul Haque Bhuiyan, 4th position Department of Apparel Engineering 41 Batch

Patrick Purification, 6th position

Md. Abdur Rakib Beg, 7th position

Department of Textile Engineering Management 41 Batch

Department of Wer Process Engineering 42 Batch

Sadman Saquib Pranto, 8th position

Shariful Islam Tusher, 9th position

Department of Fabric Engineering 42 Batch

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Department Of Apparel Engineering 42 Batch

Department of Fabric Engineering 41 Batch

Mohammad Ali Zinnah, 10th position

Department of Textile Engineering Management 41 Batch

All about KINKLE Afsana Mobin

ID: 2013-1-2-080 Department of Fabric Engineering Talking about the journey with KINKLE, as an editorial member, I would say, this journey, indeed, has been one of the most interesting experiences for all of us. As we all know, KINKLE is the first ever students’ magazine on “Textile Engineering and Technology” from BUTEX which aims at bringing the current students as well as our Alumni members within a cycloid. Frankly speaking, we were really very scared through and through. In fact, we are still scared for we don’t know what sort of response we are going to receive from our readers. But we would like to believe that, each one of the readers out there would be considerate enough to overlook the limitations of the very first issue of KINKLE and acknowledge our initiative as well.

Before starting off with painting a picture of the journey, I, on behalf of all the editorial members of KINKLE, would like to thank our Honorable Vice-Chancellor, Prof. Engr. Mashud Ahmed sir, honorable Registrar, Prof. Monirul Islam sir for supporting us. Especially, thanks to our respectable Director of Student Welfare as well as our Chief Advisor, Prof. Dr. Shah Alimuzzaman sir for helping us with his valuable advices. I would also like to thank Prof. Dr. Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan sir, Prof. Dr. Hosne Ara Begum ma’am, Prof.

Dr. Mohammad Ali sir, Dr. Md. Forhad Hossain sir, Rebeka Sultana ma’am, Shilpi Akter ma’am, Md. Asaduz-Zaman sir and Md. Ahashan Habib sir for giving their consents to be a part of this publication and hence making us feel honored.

How we started?

The very first person to come up with the suggestion of publishing a students’ magazine was a faculty member of ours, Md. Asaduz-Zaman sir. He encouraged us first to go for it. Hence our Editor, Md. Shah Miran Munshi, along with a batchmate of ours, Md. Zannatul Nayem, started planning on how to take the first step since they already knew that publishing a magazine was no way going to be a piece of cake. Afterwards, they included the rest of us in the magazine committee one by one. To be honest, except for Arafat

Munna, none of us had any previous experience of working with a publication. So, it was a leap of faith that we had taken. Why? It’s because this sort of change was needed among the students of BUTEX. We went to the moderators of our club, Md. Samiul Islam Chowdhury sir and Md. Abu Sayeed Biswas sir, with this proposal. Both of them gave us a thumps up for taking this initiative and gave us a few guidelines on how to proceed as well. They also suggested us to involve some of the teachers in this so that we could stay under constant guidance of our teachers. Therefore, we decided to go talk to eight of our faculty members and requested them to be our mentors and luckily all of them agreed to help us. So, this is how we started with KINKLE.

Our Editor-in-Chief

I went to Dr. Ummul Khair Fatema ma’am to seek her consent to become our Editor-in-Chief. She took less than 30 seconds to say a “yes” which actually made me say “Hurrah” to myself! It was a relief having her as our Editor-in-Chief. She had been so kind and patient with all of us; especially with me, I must say! Each time I got stuck anywhere with the editorial activities, I used to pick up the phone and make a call to her irrespective of time.

I even remember having a text conversation with her when she was reviewing an article for our magazine at around 1.30 a.m. Yes, you’ve heard me right; “1.30 a.m.”! Trust me, from that day on, I started putting double effort on this publication for ma’am working on our publication at 1.30 at night made me realize that the effort that I had been putting on it was nothing compared to hers.

Our Industrial Advisors

We feel extremely privileged to have Ehsanul Karim Kaiser sir, as our Md. Shah Alam sir and Md. Shahidul Hasan sir our industrial advisors.

They actually made this journey easier for us. We had the scope to have a really fun and informative session regarding this publication with Md.

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Shahidul Hasan sir at his Gulshan Amber’s office and Ehsanul Karim sir had always been there with us, giving us his valuable suggestions on how to enhance the quality of the magazine. The confidence that Ehsanul Karim sir showed in us made us feel yet more confident and motivated towards KINKLE. Last but not the least, we feel grateful towards Md. Shah Alam sir for encouraging us with his valuable presence.

Our Faculty Members

The most priceless gesture that a teacher can provide his students with is “faith”; faith in his students’ capabilities. The first faculty member that we approached with our proposal was Md. Reajul Islam sir. Immediately he agreed to be there for us whenever we needed him. I clearly remember the day when we went to A T M Faiz Ahmed sir, Dewan Murshed Ahmed sir and Md. Mazedul Islam sir; Salima Sultana Shimo ma’am was also there. Although our first conversation was quite enough to give them an idea that we had no clue on how to publish a magazine, all four of them agreed to guide us throughout the publication. Next we approached Dr. Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir sir and Md. Arif Iqbal sir. As always, Dr. Mamun sir gladly welcomed us with his smiling face. And I can still recollect what Arif Iqbal sir told us. He said, “Even if nobody is helping you out with this publication, I alone will be there with you people till the very end.” Okay, now tell me, do the kids need anything else to be said from their teacher to get encouraged about something? Unquestionably not!

Our Technical Advisors

This article of mine will no way come into accomplishment if I don’t say “at least” a few more words about our technical advisors who had been there available for us 24/7 (literally) all through this publication. Although the formation of the “magazine committee” says that they are our technical advisors only; but in real, they had been playing the roles of our advisors, magazine editorial members, coordinators, our mentors and the source of inspiration to all of us. I’m talking about our dear Murshed sir, Dr. Mamun sir, Mazed sir and Arif Iqbal sir. Honestly, if I had been in their place, I would have got tired of a bunch of kids coming to me with a new problem every other day! But our beloved teachers, not even for a second, made us feel that we were anyway bothering them. Each time we needed some suggestion or help, we had them standing

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right there with their helping hands stretched towards us. Each time we stumbled down, they were right there to help us stand back on our feet.

They always backed us up when we made some blunder, thus helping us keep up our morale as well. I wonder if we could have done it if they had never given their consents to guide us! “Thank You” is an expression which you can’t apply to all.

And I reckon, saying a mere “Thank You” is never going to be enough to convey the amount of gratefulness that we’ve got in our hearts towards them. They have actually won our hearts.

Response from our Alumni as well as the students

The response that we’ve got from both the Alumni members and the students was unimaginable! Not even in our dreams we thought of getting such a huge response; especially from the students.

Although we couldn’t publish 10% of the total number of articles that we’ve received from the students in this issue, we’ll make sure to make it up to them in the upcoming issue. Sooth to say, due to shortage of time and due to having our semester finals followed by Ramadan vacation, we couldn’t hold a workshop that we had planned to arrange for the students that were interested to write for the magazine. And that’s why we couldn’t select many of the articles for they needed much polishing to be done on them.

Hopefully KINKLE would arrange a workshop before the 2nd issue gets published so that more students can be educated on how to prepare an article for a publication.

Coming to our Alumni members, we would like to thank each one of the Alumni members from the core of our hearts for believing in us and for contributing to our magazine. They were so very cordial when we called them up and requested them to write something for us or to support our publication financially. They even tried to help us with necessary directions and suggestions regarding this publication. Although some of them couldn’t manage to contribute, they left us with a sense of positivity about our initiative. This gesture from our Alumni members really boosted up our confidence level.

Editorial Members

I have always had a wish to work with talents of my own age. And I got the opportunity to work with some through this publication. The publication

wouldn’t have been possible without the tireless efforts of Md. Shah Miran Munshi, Rahat Alam, Arafat Munna and Md. Sohanur Rahman Sobuj in the collection of advertisements and in the printing press, the keen observation power of Rahat Alam which helped us mend our mistakes from time to time and the sincere hard work of Maherunnesa and Ahamed Hossain Bappy.

Although Abdullah Al Shams Tamim joined us a bit late, he tried to contribute his level best to the magazine. And Md. Zahirul Islam; well this guy deserves to be mentioned separately for handling the editorials would have been more difficult if he hadn’t been there.

If I’m asked what the most difficult part of the journey was, I would say, keeping up the morale till the end of the publication. Actually, we wanted to publish KINKLE in April but due to our lack of experience in handling a publication, we had to postpone the date multiple times. Keeping our zeal fueled up throughout this span of time was, indeed, difficult. Despite all the difficulties, if we consider wisely, we’ll end up having the scale pan of acquisitions to be heavier. Each day we’ve learnt something new. Interviewing people, communicating with the Alumni members from home and abroad, preparing our own articles, doing a massive amount of study before reviewing the articles, learning about how to select, review and edit an article, dealing with corporate people, getting the opportunity of working with our teachers, reaching out to people to get them acquainted with KINKLE- all these have surely enriched our books of experience.

Why “KINKLE”?

Although most of the people seemed to be happy with the name of our magazine, some appeared to ask me why we’ve named it “KINKLE”. Well, it’s yet another long story but I’ll try to be precise. It took us more than 2 months to decide upon the name of our magazine. Multiple editorial meetings were held only with this “name” issue. All we wanted was to come up with a unique name. But going for the most vibrant terms didn’t provide us with the scope to stay unique. On the other hand, we wanted a name which related to the aim of our magazine. Since KINKLE aims at tying a knot of communication between the current students and the Alumni members, hence we thought of going for the knitting term “KINK” which refers to “a knot” or “novation”. But later we came to find that a magazine named “The Kink” already exists.

Hence we decided to go for “KINKLE” which refers to “a little kink”.

Moreover, as long as it doesn’t sound unpleasant to the ears, I don’t think that “name” has got anything significant to do with a thing; be it a magazine or a product. Focusing on the contents and the quality of the magazine seemed to be more important to us at that moment. Nevertheless, we shall gladly embrace criticisms if there are any.

What needs to be done?

As I’ve been stating from the very beginning, KINKLE is to introduce the students of BUTEX with a new trend of reading and writing. As we all know, we’ve got plenty of students having extra-ordinary talent in music, sports and other co-curricular activities. Many of them are trying to earn our campus recognition among the universities through their talents. Then what about the students who are probably not that much good or interested in such cultural activities but are extremely strong academically? Can’t we help them add feathers to their wings so that they can fly high and bring us yet more glory? Of course we can! And how can we do it? By promoting their activities. How can we promote their activities?

By providing them with a platform where they can express their talents. Talent in what? In reading, exploring and expressing them through their writings. We can’t deny the fact that pen is a very powerful weapon for expressing your words, your needs and your dreams. Therefore, students of all ages should be encouraged to keep up the habit of reading, exploring and writing. We really hope that our juniors will honor our initiative, carry this tradition forward and promote this extremely productive practice as well.

I think it’s time for me to wind-up.

As far I remember, we started with KINKLE in February. Now that I’m finally holding a copy of KINKLE right here in my hands, this particular moment can’t be expressed in words! I know that many of the people had high expectations from us. I don’t know how much we’ve been able to live up to their expectations. But yes, finally, we’ve brought out KINKLE as we promised. It was just a mere gesture from us in the form of KINKLE through which we wanted to make everyone realize the importance of this sort of activities among students. And have we succeeded in doing that? Well, I’m leaving it up to our readers out there.

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Understanding STEM Maeen Md. Khairul Akter

Lecturer; Textile Management National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER)

Background

The contribution and influence of Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics in the evolution and revolution of the modern world is irrefutable. Most of the discoveries, inventions and innovations that changed the world are outcomes of STEM. Hence, these four disciplines are grouped and named STEM where STEM stands for Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics easily depicted.

This is because the disciplines are so interrelated that an Science interdisciplinary education is more effective than individual education approaches as four different and separate disciplines[1].

STEM and its significance in the development of the world is undeniable for students. Especially for the academicians and the students who are planning to be academicians in future, clear knowledge on STEM bears more importance for them. STEM and management of STEM in the universities/institutes are the key to undertake breakthrough researches and innovations effectively. And the job market for STEM students is expanding rapidly in most of the countries of the world.

A study says, in United States alone the projected percentage increase in STEM jobs range from 16% to 62% from 2010 to 2020 against only 14% in non-STEM jobs.[3] In the United Kingdom, Mathematics Technology the Royal Academy of Wikipedia defines STEM Engineering reports that as an acronym that refers the Brits will have to to the academic disciplines graduate 100,000 STEM of science, technology, majors every year until engineering and 2020 just to meet demand. mathematics. The term is According to the report, Engineering typically used when Germany has a shortage addressing education of 210,000 graduates in policy and curriculum the mathematics, computer science, natural choices in schools to science and technology disciplines.[4] Another improve competitiveness in science and report says the annual salary of STEM jobs is technology development. It has implications at least 26% higher than non-STEM jobs and it for workforce development, national security averages at 77,800 USD in the US.[5] Though concerns and even in there is no such study in Bangladesh but it is immigration policies [2]. understandable that the scenario is not too much different.

The significance of STEM education is

STEM

growing rapidly with time as most of the businesses (and industries) are becoming more competitive. All sectors are trying to outplay their competitors through state of the art; state of the art in science, technology, engineering and mathematics and overall management of STEM. As a result a clear understanding of

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In our country in many cases it is evident that, students of science and engineering disciplines are unable to differentiate between the terms science, engineering and technology and their scopes. It becomes difficult for them to plan any solution or to design any roadmap for

solution in their working field as they are unable to identify whether the problem is scientific, engineering or technological or may be social.

This article is a small initiative to put light in the issue for the science and engineering students and academicians.

Science

Science is a systematic enterprise that builds and organizes knowledge in the form of testable explanations and predictions about the universe.[6] In simple word science is the study of the earth, including what is above and beneath to establish theories with acceptable explanations.

to design or develop structures, machines, apparatus or manufacturing processes or works utilizing them singly or in combination; or to construct or operate the same with full cognizance of their design; or to forecast their behavior under specific operating conditions; all as respects an intended function, economics of operation or safety to life and property.[8] To simplify engineering is the application of scientific knowledge to design and develop structures, machines and manufacturing processes.

Though there are lots of engineering disciplines today but all of them are applied-branches of mechanical, civil and electrical engineering.

Technology

So science provides all the primary and imaginative knowledge which is exploited and applied to fulfill human needs. Contemporary science is typically subdivided into the natural sciences, which study the material universe; the social sciences, which study people and societies; and the formal sciences, such as mathematics.[7] The formal sciences are often excluded as they do not depend on empirical observations. But as mathematics has a huge influence on calculation and analytics of different branches of science, it is considered as an individual discipline along with S, T and E.

Engineering

The American Engineers’ Council for Professional Development has defined “engineering” as: The creative application of scientific principles

Technology is something broader and a technology can be viewed as a combination of different engineering systems to solve a human problem. It is hard to define technology in one sentence but a lucid definition can be quoted from Tarek Khalil, a scholar in management of technology as: ‘Technology can be defined as all the knowledge, products, processes, tools, methods and systems employed in the creation of goods or in providing It is to be noted that the economy of the world runs on production and supply of goods and services and technology is the major factor of production. It is technology that ultimately implements the production and supply of goods and services with the application of different engineering systems.

Engineering systems are of course developed from different scientific knowledge.

To have a clear understanding of technology it is required to have a clear idea on the four components of technology: technoware, humanware, infoware and orgaware.

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Technoware: It is the hardware part of the technology or the machine/apparatus/tool used in the process. Like, in yarn manufacturing technology, the machines used in blowroom, carding, drawing and ring are the technoware part. These machines are outcomes of mechanical engineering.

Humanware: Humanware is the human resource part or the skill that is required to operate the technology. Like, in a spinning mill to operate the yarn manufacturing technology, an industry needs personnel with skills in textiles, mechanical etc.

Infoware: Infoware is the access to data and information that is required to maintain, operate, overhaul and update any technology.

Orgaware: It is the organizational set-up and industry and social framework requirement that is required to select, install, and operate

Textile Science Study on textile materials, fibers, polymers, nanoscience, testing principles, microbiological science, water and effluent treatment, technical and special textiles etc.

Conclusion

Science, Engineering and Technology as a whole

If we put together the three disciplines altogether than the understanding is as followed: Science- is a domain. Engineering- is a skillset of that domain. Technology- is the effective application of that skill-set.

And mathematics has a huge influence on analysis and control of any technology hence carries more importance than other formal science disciplines. Now, for better understanding of the objective and application of science, engineering and technology in textiles the following table can be depicted:

Textile Engineering

Textile Technology

Spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, finishing, water and effluent treatment plant, product design, product development, textile development etc.

Yarn manufacturing technology, fabric manufacturing technology,

The significance of textile professionals in the economy of our country is irrefutable. For the smooth development of the textile sector we need proficient textile scientists, engineers and technologists. Our current curriculum in most of the institutes does not reflect the appropriate modules and lectures of the mentioned three disciplines differently; rather we study a digest of all at the undergrad level. But as the scope and interest of the students and teachers towards higher study and research are on the high it is really important to concentrate in a specific field of study. Because, scientific researches, product development and process development are complete different paths and have different objectives. My aim of this article is to make

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successfully any technology.

So technology is the complete solution for industries and competitiveness highly depends on how one manages the four components of technology.

wet processing technology, merchandising, textile management, training and development, sales and marketing, purchase and supply chain etc.

aware the students and academicians in the field of textiles about STEM and importance of STEM in this field.

References 1. What is STEM education; www.livescience.com.

2. STEM; www.wikipedia.com.

3. http://www.ed.gov/stem.

4. www.livesciences.com.

5. http://www.stemedcoalition.org/.

6. http://global.britannica.com/topic/science.

7. Editorial Staff (March 7, 2008). â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Branches of Scienceâ&#x20AC;?.

South Carolina State University. Retrieved October 28, 2014.

8.http://www.worldcatlibraries.org/oclc/26393909&referer=brief_ results.

9. Khalil, T. M. (2009). Management of Technology; The key to competitiveness and wealth creation. New York: McGraw Hill.

MOOD BOARD by Department of fashion design

Naima Jannat Sonia ID: 2012-1-6-008

Tamim Mridha ID: 2012-1-6-034

Naila Sharmin Kanta ID: 2012-1-6-017

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Muslin: Gossamer of the East Srabonti Biswas

Id: 2013-1-4-072 Department of Apparel Engineering “The fineness of the cloths is difficult to describe, the skin of the moon removed by the executioner-star would not be so fine. One would compare it with a drop of water if that drop fell against nature, from the fount of the sun… it is so transparent and light that it looks as if one is in no dress at all but has only smeared the body with pure water.”

-Abul Hasan Yaminud Din Khusrow; Indian sufi poet and scholar describing Muslin.

Muslin was the attire of kings, the adornment of queens, and a fabled fabric which was the pinnacle of fashion. Rare, delicate and fine, described as “woven air”; Muslin was the most sought after material. Fact, fictions and myth merged into one, as the stories of this coveted textile traveled the earth, bringing prosperity to its traders. From Rome to Indonesia, the cloth that had started as courtly gift became a symbol of exclusivity, empowerment and taste that occupied a central position in European enterprise, with Bengal at its nucleus.

Muslin was the pride product of Bengal, specifically of the part known as Bangladesh today. The unusual environmental characteristics of a short stretch along the Meghna river provided the precise conditions for a particular variety of the cotton plant and the industry to flourish. At the same time, communities of skilled people took on the painful process of saving seeds and planting them, harvesting cotton, spinning yarn and weaving cloth. Manufacture of the best Muslin involved a well-choreographed sequence relying on each craftsperson performing his/ her role, drawing on inherited knowledge and innate ability. It transformed cotton into the legendary “Gossamer of the East”, which fires our imagination to this day. Dr. Taylor, a British textile expert states in a report, “Hindu women at the age varying from 18 to 30 years, were the weavers of superfine quality. But after 30 years, their sight became impaired. The superfine quality could be woven only in early morning

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or afternoon as otherwise the strong sunlight snapped the thread.” Despite numerous efforts, the plant grew nowhere else.

Jamdani, mainly of Bangladeshi origin, is the only one of the many variants of Muslin (called “mulmul”originally) which still survives. Sadly, today Muslin is all but a remnant of history.

Bangladesh’s museums are empty of its finest specimens, the spinners who created the almost invisible threads of cotton have been displaced and the weavers who created this coveted cloth have ceased to reach for such rarefied heights of “counts” (this denotes the numbers of threads per square inch, the higher the number, the finer the cloth) that went beyond the double figures one sees today up to 1000. At that time myths and stories used to swirl around it. A cloth so fine those 6 yards of cloths effortlessly passed through a ring, so sheer that it would blend with the morning dew, so fine that mermaids were thought to have made it on misty mornings.

Fig: Jamdani, the only survivor of the Muslin family “Muslin” was named by Marco Polo after the large cotton trade through the town of Mosul in Iraq, supplied from Masulipatnam; Muslin was previously addressed as “fine Gangetic cotton from Bengal”. Its unique lusture and extreme demand attracted nobility and merchants. The East India Company who in 1765 earned the sole trading rights to Bengal from a derelict Moghul

king, Shah Alam, exiled from Delhi. From a customer portfolio of over twenty markets, the English applied monopoly rights and extortionist laws which made its manufacture untenable for the defenceless craftspeople of the land.

Ravaged by famines, eroded by overseas imitation, hounded by debtors, its Coup De Grâce was the Western technology that rapidly converted Bengal from a bountiful producer of handmade fabric into the supine recipient of industrial textiles. It also brought unimaginable wealth to the East India Company, and rose to account for half of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world trade.

Fig: Introducing modern humidity control technology

Fig: Powdered conch shells coated on fingertips prevented the delicate thread from tearing It is a matter of hope that some creative organizations are trying to recover the essence of Muslin and under their guidance and patronage, a group of weavers have become successful in weaving saree that has a thread count of 300 per inch showing all the traits of Muslin. Not only that expertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s journey have been started on the banks of the river Meghna, from Kapasia (named after the cotton plant) until Mymensingh in search of the remnants of cotton plant. Modern methods of humidity control and static measurement are being introduced to assist the weavers in overcoming problems of yarn tear and breakage.

Fig: New age Muslin of 300 cotton All these efforts are going on to reveal the story of Muslin, the fabled fabric of Bengal and to inspire the revival of a new-age Muslin. It is expected that if Bangladesh can re-establish itself as the original source of this diaphanous material, it will be of tangible benefit to our handloom industry and also to our national identity. Our country, presently defined in textile within the narrow boundaries of a readymade garment industry with its accompanying controversies, can redefine its profile as also a provider of the finest textile, bringing pride and recognition to its true heroes- the craftspeople of Bangladesh.

Fig: Experts have been experimenting with alternative cotton seed to explore how close they can now get to the original fabric

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Knowledge Society & University Education Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan C.Text. FTI

Pro Vice Chancellor BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)

The term knowledge society is fast becoming the most popular catchword of global attention.

Many nations are moving increasingly to reshape their old universities and build new ones. Various countries and agencies and UNESCO in particular, have embraced the concept of knowledge societies. Whatever term one uses, it is clear that mankind has entered into a fundamentally new type of society and a new age called the â&#x20AC;&#x153;digital ageâ&#x20AC;?.

Knowledge society has posed four challenges for higher education: skills race, adapting to market, use of appropriate and new technology and global sustainability. The skills race has been fueled by a change in the role of university from teaching and scholarship to creation of knowledge in and for a new marketplace through a whole array of new technologies, with special focus on generation of knowledge for ensuring sustainable development and sustainability of the planet.

The knowledge factor is playing a major role in the growth of the economy. This has prompted an increasingly large number of countries to allocate a significantly large share of their budget for higher education, and redesign and create university within the dynamic context of globalization. Developed and developing countries are reshaping many important areas in higher education system. Some are spending between 4 to 6% of their GNP on education. In order to create a knowledge-based society the idea of establishing world-class university has emerged.

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Education has a major role to play in personal and social development and as a whole in the national development. Education is an indispensable asset in its attempt to attain the ideals of peace, freedom and social justice.

Universities are considered to be central to the highest level of education. Four key functions are vested on universities: 1. To prepare students for research and teaching.

2. To provide highly specialized training courses adapted to the needs of economic and social life.

3. To be open to all, so as to cater for the many aspects of life long education in the widest sense.

4. International co-operation.

In the present day world of IT, national boundaries have become increasingly irrelevant and the day is not vary far off when anyone with access to a networked computer anywhere in the world, will have at their fingertips the entire scope of human knowledge. In this concept, regional and international co-operation has become a decisive factor in the development of higher education. Universities must exert more effort in developing networking activities, exchanges and joint research with counterpart institution worldwide. Co-operation among national and international universities to exchange experiences, expertise and research must be encouraged and facilitated.

To meet the needs of the rapidly changing world

institutions of higher education, wherever they are based, need to operate effectively not only within their local constituencies, but also across national and regional boundaries.

Private universities have an opportunity to promote a new model of university education which can by emphasizing the development of analytic and communication skills, produce highly competitive graduates for the global economy.

Research and scholarly activities such as seminars, publications are not a luxury or a diversion for universities in the developing world, but rather an integral function of these institutions. While teaching and training are certainly important, it is research which sets institutions apart. The great universities of the world are known for their research contributions, which have changed the way the world thinks and acts. It is fair to say that, research has played a minor role in university culture in Bangladesh and faculty advancement is not tied to research productivity for the most part. A significant part of this is due to funding constraints, which are an unfortunate reality in the developing world. There is, however, in addition, a lack of vision among university administrators who tend to focus on high costs and low benefits

of research and scholarly activities in the short term. In a rapidly changing global economy, this lack of attention to these crucial areas is likely to marginalize us even more than we already are.

Private universities have a window of opportunity to establish a distinctive identity. By emphasizing research and scholarly activities, they can set a standard which will serve as a model for their peers in both the private and public sector.

These activities in turn will contribute in building knowledge society in the country.

Many countries in the south are moving fast towards building a knowledge-based society. In order to create knowledge society we need to reorganize our whole education system, especially, university education.

Budget Allocation in higher education should be increased gradually to 6 to 8% like other developing countries (India, Pakistan, Malaysia, Maldives etc). In this case, emphasis must be given on research and development activities on key important issues such as skill development, climate change, agriculture, textile, IT, etc. To become a mid income level country of the world there is no alternative but to take pragmatic steps in increasing knowledge of the young generation through quality education in university level.

bUTEX Spinnersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Club:

This is a club formed by the students of the department of yarn engineering. They arrange various brain storming events from time to time. From the very first year of establishing, they successfully arranged Fiber Competition, Jute Conference, Campus Cleaning and Gardening project.

Club de Wet Processing:

A club by the students and for the students of the department of Wet Processing Engineering. Interestingly, apart from their regular activities.

BUTEX CAREER Club:

It is an independent club based on career perspectives which established in 2016. They had already arranged a job fair in campus.

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Development of Technical Textiles in Bangladesh: What Needs to be Done?

Prof. Dr. Md. Mahbubul Haque Head, Department of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University, Dhaka

Technical textiles (TTs) are those textiles that are mainly used due to their performance properties not because of their aesthetic look and aspects. There are numerous examples of TTs around us, e.g. various types of school bags made of fabric, gauze and bandages used in medical purpose, various types of net and nonwoven bags used by the groceries and shops, jute bags, fishing nets etc. Related experts and scientists have divided TTs into 12 broad classes, e.g.

1. Agrotech or Agrotextiles:Includes agriculture, horticulture, forestry and fishing sector.

2. Buildtech or Construction Textiles: Includes building and construction products.

3. Clothtech or Clothing Textiles: Includes functional components of shoes and clothing products.

4. Geotech or Geotextiles: Includes geotextiles and civil engineering products.

5. Hometech or Home Textiles: Includes products used in the home; components of furniture and floor coverings.

6. Indutech or Industrial Textiles: Includes filtration and other products used in industry.

7. Medtech or Medical Textiles: Includes health, hygiene and medical products.

8. Mobiltech or Textiles in Transportation: Includes transportation construction, equipment and furnishing materials.

9. Oekotech or Environmental Textiles: Includes environmental protection materials.

10. Packtech or Packaging Textiles: Includes packaging and storage materials.

11. Protech or Protective Textiles: Includes personal and property protection materials.

12. Sporttech or Sport Textiles: Includes sports and leisure technical components materials.

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The above classification was done perhaps at the time introducing TTs; however it seems that the classes need to be revised as some TTs belongs to several classes while some TTs like solar textile probably does not belong to any of the above classes. Some TTs are very easy to manufacture hence cheap, e.g. jute bags, net and nonwoven shopping bags used to carry goods while some TTs are very expensive requiring various types of professionals to perfect and manufacture them, e.g. implantable medical textiles, air bags and some textiles used in cars, bullet proof vests etc. Various studies and market research suggest that TTs are one most rapidly advancing branch of Textile Engineering.

TTs are creating tremendous impact on the economy of many countries including India. It is strongly believed that some of the TTs may play very important role in the national infrastructural and economic growth of Bangladesh. Many of the developed and developing countries have undertaken various types of initiatives to develop and apply TTs in their country. Many countries are already getting substantial benefits from TTs sector. Out of the 12 broad classes, perhaps there is no country that has expertise in all the 12 classes. In fact in most cases it is seen that concerned countries conduct study and identify classes that are most viable or feasible for their national benefits and interest. India has already done base line survey and identified agrotech,

protech, geotech, buildtech and medtech as key areas for growth and development in India. At present, India is producing some TTs in large scale and applying them in India and elsewhere in the world.

In order to develop TTs in Bangladesh, we must at first conduct study and then we have to take step to implement them in Bangladesh. Up to now, so far we are concerned, no organization in Bangladesh has undertaken any such initiative. There is a multinational project on jute based geotextile involving India, Bangladesh and Nepal. However India is doing the main textile technical work while Department of Civil Engineering, BUET (BD) is doing application work and BJRI (BD) is associated with the project with very low profile. Apart from this, during conducting project works, we found that some civil engineering farms are also using geotextiles in their soil related projects but it was difficult to get further information probably because of business secrecy. We came to know that a civil (soil related) constructional farm is manufacturing nonwoven fabric in Gazipur or Valuka area. It was not possible to get much information about these TTs in Bangladesh within our limited attempt and effort. It seems that majority of concerned civil engineers are aware but not well aware about geotextiles. In the developed countries, the CE programs contain several courses on geotextiles, e.g. Monash University, Australia; but there are no topics of geotextiles in the syllabus of civil engineering in Bangladesh.

Based on our literature survey on development of technical textiles, it seems that at least geotech, agrotech, packtech, protech and some medtech may have very good prospects in Bangladesh. If study suggests then more classes may be added later. The above few classes are briefly discussed below. Hometech or home textiles and some of the clothtech products are being produced in Bangladesh but we are not suggesting them for development as these are well-established and probably do not need further care at this moment.

sludge, (iii) In preventing soil erosion and (iv) In making sustainable embankment. In Bangladesh every year government allocate huge budget to build or renew roads in rural areas. If geotextiles are used, then the life span of those roads will be many times more than that if the roads are built without geotextiles. Management of wet/ soft soil or slurry can be another important application in Bangladesh. So far the author is concerned, lots of ETPs are installed in Bangladesh but none of them can manage their sludge easily and effectively. The main problem is separation of solids from liquids. By using geo bags one can easily separate the solid waste from the slurry leading to an excellent, easier and safer environmental solution. These types of applications can also be used by the city corporation people during clearing mud clogged drains to separate solids from liquid. There are vast amount of low lying lands in the south of Noakhali and Lakshmipur where the lands are not suitable for cultivation or only useable for one season leaving it under water for the rest of the year. In these cases, using geo bags damns can be made from slurry to encircle the area like DND project in Dhaka; after that the lands can be used for cultivation for round the year.

The concept of making damn is also widely practiced by the civil engineers and Bangladesh government but the conventional concept of making damn is very expensive, unstable and unsafe and easily destroyed by cyclone or floods leading to loss of total investment. Using geotextile, very effective and long lasting (totally unaffected by flood and cyclone) damns can be produced leading to socio economic growth of the concerned population and the country as a whole.

Geotextiles are the technical textiles that are used in numerous geotechnical purposes which are important branch of civil engineering. The applications are huge and diverse. Some of the important applications can be as follows; (i) In reinforcement of newly built roads, (ii) In management of soft soil and various types of

Fig: Application of Geotech

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Erosion control can be another very important application of geotextiles. Every year lots of river bank dwellers suffer from erosion problem leading to absolute loss of their land property. To tackle the problem, every year the government allocate huge amount of budget.

Geotextiles offer very easy and cost effective solution to this humanitarian problem of mass destruction. Another important application could be managing soft soil after dredging. In recent time, river dredging is being thought seriously. During summer season we do not get sufficient supply of water flow from the upstream rivers in Indian part and our rivers get almost dry hampering irrigation very badly.

Therefore, if we can dredge our rivers, we will be able to preserve sufficient amount of water for dry season.

we are recommending developing geotextiles in Bangladesh as soon as possible.

Agrotech or agrotextiles are used in

numerous agricultural purposes. Agriculture, Horticulture, Forestry and Fishing segmentsall the four sectors combined together are popularly called as “Agrotech” or “Agrotextile” sector. Some of the benefits of applying agrotextiles are: they increase crop production, they avoid the soil from drying out leading to no or less irrigation, they decrease the requirement of fertilizers- using mulch fabric it is possible to control weeds by 100% leading to availability of the nutrients for only intended crop, pesticides and water, they make product quality better, they increase the early maturing of crops and non-seasonal plants.

Fig: Application of Agrotech Fig: Application of Geotech If we go for that in that case there will be huge amount of slurry due to dredging. Using geotextiles, we can manage and solidify that slurry and can be used in many application, e.g. to develop some low lying lands making them ready for crop production round the year. Using geo-tubes it will be possible to carry the slurry to even several miles away from the dredging location. Unlike dredging pipes made of iron, the discharging location of the geo-tubes can be changed very easily. These are just few applications; there are lots of interesting and economically profitable infrastructural projects that can be built by using geotextiles. Therefore

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Some of the important objectives of using agrotextiles are to avoid branches from breaking, to increase the cleanliness (hygiene) of the crop, to make harvesting easy, to provide protection against frost (for cold countries), wind, excessive sunlight, hail, to provide protection against weeds and pests, to accelerate plant growth and to provide optimal ventilation and temperature regulation. Some of the important areas of application of agrotextiles or agrotech products are sunscreen net, wind shield nets, bird nets, crop covers, harvesting nets, insect nets, mulch mat, anti-hailstone nets, packing sacks and wrappers, fishing nets. In the summary it can be said that using agrotextiles products the farmers can get 3-4 times more output from their lands. Therefore, we are recommending developing agrotextiles in Bangladesh.

Fig: Application of Agrotech

Fig: Application of Packtech

Packtech is those applications where textile materials are used in making various types of bags. All jute bags belong to packtech. All bags used by students of nursery, primary school, high school, college and university are packtech.

Apart from this, there are some special type brief cases, suitcases, luggage carriers etc. made of fabrics belonging to packtech.

Protech or protective textiles are also an important branch that can be developed in Bangladesh. Protech have limited market in Bangladesh but have vast export market. Some of the important applications of protective textiles are: High Temperature Protective Textiles, Flame Resistant Protective Textiles, Chemical Protective Textiles, Mechanical Protective Textiles, Ballistic Protective Textiles, Space Suits, Radiation Protective Textiles, High Visibility Textiles, Ultra Violet Protection Finish, Water Proof Breathable Fabrics, Electrical Protective Textiles, Protective Health Care Garments etc.

Therefore, we are recommending developing some protech products in Bangladesh.

Fig: Application of Packtech We have been already using large quantities of packtech products. There are lots of small industries for producing packtechs in Bangladesh while lots of packtechs are also being imported. The reason for raising the issue of developing packtech is that, up to now, so far we are concerned, there is no educational program on designing and manufacturing packtechs. If packtech is recognized as a separate sector and educational programs are designed then the business will boost up. Apart from this, we will be able to reduce import; rather we will be able to export. Therefore, we are recommending developing packtech in Bangladesh.

Fig: Application of Protech In order to take Bangladesh forward, we must start to develop our TTs infrastructure. We will not be able to achieve it automatically. We have to work hard to develop it. In this regard some recommendations are put forward below:

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1. Government should acknowledge and recognize TTs as a growth and economic sector and start an office/section run by textile engineers under the Ministry of Textiles.

Apart from government, BUTEX also has very important role to play. For geotextiles, both BUET and BUTEX have to work together. I have seen such collaboration between civil engineers and textile engineers in the early ninety’s in Bolton University, UK. As was mentioned, some of the civil engineering farms/industries are using TTs in a very limited and exclusive extent, but without government recognition, full scale and large scale activities will not take place.

It may be mentioned that Indian government made a law that jute based geotextiles must be used during constructing roads. India is also marketing agrotech through government offices. In this regard, it can be mentioned here that BCS Textile Cadre is very essential for Bangladesh. If there had been BCS Textile Cadre then it would have been possible to introduce TTs by now. Government support is a must for initial push up. Therefore, the government high officials of Textile Ministry must have at least basic knowledge about various types of TTs and their benefits for the nation. Therefore textile engineers must be empowered in the Ministry of Textiles.

2. A baseline survey should be undertaken to identify and prioritize the classes of TTs that are technically possible, economically viable and nationally admirable; BUTEX is the ideal place for undertaking such study. As was mentioned, it seems to us that geotextile, agrotech, packtech, protective textiles and part of medical textiles can be developed in Bangladesh for our own uses as well as for export purposes, but some other classes of TTs can be developed only for export purposes. Countries like USA, Canada, UK uses huge amount of TTs but they import them as manufacturing them is very expensive.

3. In some applications like erosion control jute based geotextiles are used successfully.

This is because in case of erosion control, we need geotextile for limited period of time, after that the risk of erosion does not exist due to change of flow of river. Jute products last up to 2 years; after that it is totally degraded and then it acts as fertilizer. Therefore we can

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use jute fabrics for controlling erosion in some selective applications. As we are one of the top producers of jute, therefore we will be able to use lot of our jute as geotextiles. However, in all other cases, synthetic fibers are mainly used to manufacture TTs. Therefore, we have to develop polyester, polypropylene and nylon etc. locally.

Apart from TTs, we need polyester and other synthetic fibers to maximize and versatile our RMG export. So far we know, a group known as “Deshbandhu” group is developing a polyester (chips) making plant in Bangladesh. This should be speeded up and they should be encouraged so that the company can start their production as soon as possible.

4. We need to develop our weaving, nonwoven and warp knitting capability. Most and majority of the TTs are woven, nonwoven and warp knitted; therefore we have to master these skills to manufacture these fabrics of varying specifications and properties. Though we are somewhat expert in weaving, we need to develop nonwoven and warp knitting capability.

We can achieve this by undertaking research projects in these areas.

5. Universities, particularly BUTEX, should undertake research projects on TTs. They have to do it not only for developing TTs sector but also to welcome this new and dominant textile technology that will create huge job opportunities for new and future textile engineers.

6. Civil Engineering is an important stakeholder of the geotextiles; therefore, universities having CE may work jointly with the universities having Textile Engineering. Apart from this, CE programs should include courses on geotextiles. This will expedite overall effort of developing geotextiles in Bangladesh.

7. Some programs of Agriculture Universities are important stakeholders of the agrotextiles; therefore, universities having agricultural programs may work jointly with the universities having Textile Engineering. Apart from this, agriculture programs should include courses on agrotech. This will expedite overall effort of developing agrotech in Bangladesh.

An Afternoon with the First Ever Female Textile Engineer in Bangladesh

The first ever female Textile Engineer in our country, Mrs. Aziza Rahman, started her journey with Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation (BTMC) in 1988 by joining in the Quality Control Department and is holding the post of the General Manager presently.

Interview conducted by Maherunnesa 20th March, 2016:

KINKLE: Dear ma’am! How are you? How are you doing with life?

Mrs. Aziza: I’m doing great!

KINKLE: Where is your hometown? Where did you spend most of your childhood?

Mrs. Aziza: I spent most of my childhood in Dhaka; although I was born in Bogra.

KINKLE: Which school and college are you from?

Mrs. Aziza: I had my schooling in Sher-E-Bangla Nagar Govt. Girls’ High School upto class 8 and then I shifted to Lalmatia Girls’ High School and passed my S.S.C. from there in 1979. My college was Holy Cross and I passed H.S.C. from there in 1981.

KINKLE: Did you ever think of doing Textile Engineering during your college days? If not, then what was your career goal back then? And what was your parents’ dream about you?

Mrs. Aziza: No, I never thought of becoming a Textile Engineer when I was in college. In fact, people barely had an idea about Textile Engineering back then. Actually I wanted to become an Architect. Unfortunately, I could not make it through to it. Hitherward, my parents always wanted me to become a Doctor. Although I made it through to Rangpur Medical College, I never wanted to leave my parents back in Dhaka and go study there. My parents also did not want me to go. So, I skipped it.

KINKLE: Then how exactly did you get yourself into Textile Engineering? Who informed you of this and encouraged you to go for it?

Mrs. Aziza: My father; late Aminur Rahman; he first got me acquainted with the concept of Textile Engineering. He asked me to give it a thought since I had always wanted to do Engineering.

Hence, I sat for the exam and got qualified as well. We were the first batch (81-82) of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering.

KINKLE: How many students were there in your batch? Were you the only female student or there were some more girls as well?

Mrs. Aziza: There were fifty students in total.

And no, I was not the only girl in the beginning.

I somehow convinced a friend of mine, who was also from Holy Cross College, to take the admission with me. So, yes, we were two girls in the pack of fifty. But later, she reappeared for the medical admission test, made it through to it and shifted away to Mymensingh Medical College.

That was from when I started my journey all alone, you can say.

KINKLE: How was the environment of the campus back then? Was it friendly and safe enough to accept a single girl studying among a bunch of boys?

Mrs. Aziza: Well, you know, it couldn’t have been so friendly and supportive if there had not been my teachers there to help and guide me through and through. They had been very supportive

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towards me that I still remember every bit of it. You know, during the lab classes, when all the boys used to gather round to see a machine getting demonstrated, I used to feel really uneasy to get into that crowd. Then the respective teachers always used to ask them to make room for me so that I could learn as well. So, the kind gestures of this sort from my teachers’ side kept me motivated throughout my graduation program. I still feel grateful to them for everything.

KINKLE: If we ask you to define your B.Sc. life experience in a word, what would that be?

KINKLE: Do you think the college was resourceful enough back then in terms of machines, equipments, library facilities and other facilities that are the basic requirements for providing education on Textile Engineering?

Mrs. Aziza: BTMC was quite prospectus back then. So, it was the only option that I had in my mind when I was thinking of applying for a job. I appeared for the written test in 1987 before my 4th year finals and made it through to it. After our results were published, I joined in here in 1988.

There started my journey with BTMC. If you ask me about my job life experience, I would say, it has been really interesting working in here. I have had loads of amazing people to work with around me. And I also enjoy my job here. Especially, I had a great time working in the Quality Control Department.

Mrs. Aziza: Well, no. I don’t think it was resourceful enough. You know, you people are really lucky for you are getting the access to a wide range of machineries, equipments, testing and sampling lab facilities, multimedia and library facilities as well. I really wish we had all these facilities during our time. We had a few machineries that too were in a poor condition. Our library barely had the books we needed. There was no sufficient scope for doing library work which was one of the biggest challenges that I had to face during my B.Sc. program. Despite all the lackings, I thoroughly enjoyed the lab classes; especially, the wet processing lab. I wonder how much you kids may be enjoying them now!

KINKLE: What were the challenges that you had to face during your graduation program? And how did you overcome them?

Mrs. Aziza: Being the only female student in the whole batch was a big challenge for me indeed.

I often used to feel the absence of a friend with whom I could sit and talk at the campus, share stuffs and study as well. Things could have been easier I guess if I had one. And as I’ve mentioned earlier, the lack of library work facilities was quite inconvenient for me. Being a girl, another problem that I had to face was the truck-stand beside our campus. I used to find passing across it quite unsafe and scary! We often had classes in the afternoon. My mother used to accompany me to the campus then. She used to sit and wait until I got done with my classes. I shall never forget the support and encouragement that I had got from my parents. They made my journey easier and better.

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Mrs. Aziza: In a word? “Adventurous”.

KINKLE: How did you start with BTMC? Was it your sole choice or you wanted to go for entrepreneurship or other private sector jobs?

Could you please share your job life experience with us?

KINKLE: What were the obstacles on your way towards building your career as a Textile Engineer after entering the job life?

Mrs. Aziza: Well, the amount of obstacles that I had to face during my entire job life is no close to the ones that I had battled with when I was doing my B.Sc. So, I really don’t remember any in particular.

KINKLE: Did you ever think of doing higher studies?

Mrs. Aziza: Yes! I badly wanted to go abroad for higher studies. In fact I flew to Belgium to do my M.Sc. in Ghent University. It was in 1997 as far I remember. My son was around 2 years old and my daughter was in class 2 back then most probably.

During my stay in Belgium, the number of letters and faxes that I had got from my husband stating the inconveniences that my kids were facing in my absence compelled me to leave my M.Sc. and come back here. Hence my dream of doing higher studies remained unaccomplished. But I don’t regret it even a tiny bit. It’s because it was my family and my career that I had to choose between. And family undoubtedly comes first.

KINKLE: Do you regret even a little bit doing Textile Engineering?

Mrs. Aziza: No way! I’ve thoroughly enjoyed both my student life and my job life. It was my very own choice to go for it and still now I love what I do. So, no, I don’t regret anything.

KINKLE: Is there anyone you would like to mention about whom you have idealized or who has been sort of an inspiration to you apart from your parents?

Mrs. Aziza: Well, you know, I believe, the greatest virtues that can reside in a person are his personality, ethics and values. Being a good human being is all that matters. There are many wise human beings but a good human being is rare to find. And I would say that I was lucky enough to meet a person who could indisputably be given the title of a “good human being”. He was Shah Alam sir. He was the DGM of the Quality Control Department when I joined in here.

He was also a part time teacher of ours. Sir was such an amazing human being! He has been a source of inspiration to me. Another person I would like to mention here is Aftab sir. He was also a very good human being. Actually we were quite lucky to get the guidance of some real good people during our time.

KINKLE: Now tell us something about your family.

Mrs. Aziza: Well, it has been 28 years of my married life. My husband, Mr. Sakeb Iqbal Khan Majlis, is a retired Air Commodore (Bangladesh Air Force). I have got two children. My daughter is doing her M.B.A. in U.S.A. and my son is doing his under-graduation there. You know what? I feel accomplished; my education, my family and my job- from every aspect I feel really accomplished.

But there’s this one thing which often gets me upset. And that is the absence of my kids.

Although, it was our very own decision to send them off for acquiring better education, but when I get back home, I don’t get to see the faces of my lovely kids. This really has created a void in our lives. We really miss our kids.

KINKLE: Now-a-days, more girls are signing up for Textile Engineering than ever before. How do you see this change? And do you have any suggestion for the new kids that wish to select the career of a Textile Engineer?

Mrs. Aziza: I think our job field is much securer than any other profession. So, kids should not remain in a dilemma about going for Textile Engineering.

And with the passage of time, we are becoming stronger and more stable. So, I see a very bright future in this sector. And when it comes to girls signing up for this profession, I would like to give them a thumps up. In my opinion, girls are really sincere and they take their tasks seriously. And our sector needs sincere people. So, there are huge prospects for girls now. Moreover, things have changed now. The mentality of the people has also changed. So, girls can go for it without giving it a second thought.

KINKLE: Is there any Government policy regarding the recruitment of the fresh graduates from BUTEX or the textile engineers from other universities? What is the role of BTMC in here?

Mrs. Aziza: Although there is no such policy, but I think it would be great if there exists one.

For instance, if we talk about BUTEX, then the BUTEX authority can take the initiative to request a certain number of employees to be recruited among their fresh graduates. This could serve in favor of both BTMC and the textile engineers that have got the desire to sign up for Government jobs.

KINKLE: Then how exactly this approach should be made if any university wants to make one?

Mrs. Aziza: The Chairman of BTMC should be approached with this proposal first. With his consent the proposal will be sent to the Ministry of Textiles and Jute for approval. Right after it is approved from there, we can establish this policy.

KINKLE: Ma’am, thank you so much for your valuable time. One last question here. How does it feel to be the first ever female Textile Engineer in Bangladesh?

Mrs. Aziza: GREAT, in a word!

It is not easy to take the risk of going against the stream and doing something different; that too all alone. But Mrs. Aziza Rahman was courageous and confident enough to take the risk and the outcome is right before our eyes. Her story leaves us with the lesson that- “Sometimes we should take risks; especially when they are worth taking”.

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Sustainable Industrialization: A Crying Need Dewan Murshed Ahmed

Lecturer, Department of Fabric Engineering, BUTEX

Farabi RahmatUllah

Examiner, Department of Textile, Physical Testing Wing, BSTI Economy is one of the biggest parameters to determine the health of a country. The healthier the economy of a country, the stronger is the potential of that country. The economy of a country largely depends on its industrialization process. The industrial growth of a country is like the growth of a human body. In order to develop and function properly, a human body needs a number of vital organs each having specific and distinct functionalities that are properly placed in specific positions with an organized network to fulfill some distinct goals of living.

If the organs are improperly placed and they somehow fail to perform their basic functions, then it is obvious that the human body will collapse. Likewise, in order to develop a healthy industrialization, a country needs to establish core industries having distinct industrial purposes.

These industries must be located strategically. Also they must have easy, fast and economical access to resources, manpower and raw materials, a proper management of wastage and unused resources, an effective system of protection against calamities and disasters and finally, a well-planned and goal oriented growth of industrialization which will benefit the economy of the country. If industrialization takes place in an unplanned manner and the industries fail to serve their intended purposes, the

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industrialization process and the economy of a country are sure to collapse.

The Existent State The present scenario of the economy of Bangladesh is such that it is undergoing rapid industrialization. The government of Bangladesh is also motivated to establish an economy based on industrial growth and they are developing an infrastructure accordingly to draw the attention of the foreign as well as the local investors. Hence there have been a number of EPZs established in different locations which are considered industrially feasible.

These EPZs are serving well with the allocation of a number of industrial plots. But they are confined to a certain land area.

This has resulted in a large number of small, medium and big factories to be established beyond a planned manner.

Thus unplanned growth of the factories has brought about a haphazard industrial population which seems to be a very difficult puzzle to solve. Crisis of energy, resources, skilled manpower etc. have become among the very common problems now-adays. The concerned authorities are trying to solve these problems without taking the location of these industries into consideration. Nevertheless, it is needed to be understood that as long as the root of a problem is overlooked, the tree of the

problem will keep on arising over and over again.

Location: a Key Factor Let’s imagine a person having a paralyzed leg. Hence the person is physically disabled since one of his vital organs does not function.

Let’s make it a bit weirder and imagine that the person has got his head placed in the place of his hands, legs on his chest and heart on his foot. A horrible scenario can be pictured from this! And we can very practically say that if such a human is born, he will either die or survive in a very miserable condition. This is because his organs are not placed as they were supposed to be. As stated earlier, the industrial growth can be visualized to be like the growth of a human body.

Just like the organs, each and every factory should have their own specific functionalities and they must be located wisely and strategically. Therefore “location” is a vital point to ensure industrial development.

Presently, most of our factories are completely unplanned. Here, the industrialists are establishing their factories wherever they get low cost lands or on the lands that they have already bought or inherited from their ancestors.

The factories are grown here and there without proper planning. As a result, both the entrepreneurs and the people of the respective localities are the ultimate sufferers. But there

are some facts which should be considered before selecting the location of a plant.

Supply of Raw Materials and Nearness to the Market: In case of industrial sector in Bangladesh, we do not produce most of the raw materials locally.

This means we import raw materials. And we have to reach those raw materials coming from the foreign markets via port. It is a very time consuming process. Since we are compelled to import the raw materials, nearness to the port could have ensured for us smooth supply of raw materials.

Transport facilities: We do not have efficient transport facilities in Bangladesh. Moreover, because of the long distance routes, huge transport costs are involved during import-export operations.

It is a matter to ponder upon that we import raw materials via the port and after manufacturing as well as processing the products we export them through same port. This results in travelling the same distance twice. Considering this issue, the government has already established three EPZs near the sea ports. Nevertheless, the factories within the boundaries of these three EPZs encounter many problems for they are not being provided with the necessary additional facilities.

Ensuring additional facilities for the existing EPZs adjacent to the sea ports and creating a suitable scope as well as an environment for a number of industrial zones to be grown around the sea ports in a planned manner may contribute to lessening the problems related to transportation.

Supply of Workforce: Supply of workforce is another problem because no region is capable of supplying the whole workforce all

alone. In many factories, officials and labors are seen to come to work from the farthest parts of the country. Some factories are established in such remote areas that the supply of workforce becomes a problem. Hence the availability, accommodation and transportation of the workforce should be taken into account before planning a factory.

Availability of Power: A factory can no way run without power.

Therefore, the location of a factory should be confirmed after confirming the availability of power supply in that particular location.

Supplies Availability: Due to the unplanned industrialization, the factories do not get access to the supplies instantly. They have to forecast and manage all they need. High buffer stocks are needed to be maintained.

EOQ (Economic Order Quantity) also gets larger. Consequently, overall investment requirements go higher. Sometimes despite having almost all of the supplies available, the production comes to a halt in want of single equipment. So, factories must be planned keeping supplies availability in mind.

Specialized Manpower: Every factory has got a maintenance department to do the maintenance of their machineries and equipments.

But sometimes specialized skilled personnel are needed to be called in from other factories or places to solve certain problems. In such cases, most of the time, the factories need to wait for long for those specialized personnel to arrive. Meanwhile the production is seriously hampered. By establishing a number of planned industrial zones, this particular problem could be overcome.

As we all know, our industries produce huge amount of pollutants. Allowing this sort of industry to grow among the localities can pose significant threat to the environment and the health and living of the inhabitants of those localities.

Thus factories which create pollutants should not be in a free zone. The location of a plant is highly important. Despite having so many well defined strategies, it is very difficult to find a place which facilitates with all of the necessary features of industrial requirements. So, such location is needed to be prepared.

Considering this, the government has established EPZs but they are not capable of providing sufficient support to the whole industry.

As a result, the entrepreneurs tend to establish their factories according to their own choices. But if the factories are established in such an unplanned and scattered way, then proper waste management and dealing with transportation as well as other necessary facilities may turn out to be a huge problem in near future. Therefore, it is high time the focus got shifted upon bringing the factories within the boundaries of a number of planned industrial zones away from the localities; provided that they are well-equipped with suitable transportation facilities for their workforce. There may be a number of specified industrial zones distributed all over the country and they must be interconnected by means of railways, highways and waterways.

A Hybrid Superhighway Can Change the Whole Concept of Industrial Transportation: At present, in our country, the whole industrial transportation is mostly based on roads and highways. Although railways and waterways also contribute to

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this, their contributions are not that significant as compared to the highways. Hitherward, our highways are insufficiently wide for the bigger exportable product cargos. Moreover, heavy traffic of a lot of heavy vehicles causes frequent road damages. Another problematic issue is that the cargos are driven right through the roads of the commercial and populated cities (like Chittagong) which play vital economic roles in local gathering and business.

Such traffic affects the lives of the inhabitants of the city adversely.

Again, since both the public and industrial cargo transportations are allowed to travel through the same highway, this increase in heavy industrial vehicles on the highways has got a highly negative impact on the public transportation and causes lifethreatening accidents often.

Sometimes these heavy vehicles become immobile in the middle of the roads because of malfunction, engine failure or accidents. This creates a massive traffic jam causing all the vehicles come to a standstill for an uncertain period of time. This sometimes results in shipment failure as well as in massive economic loss.

To resolve this existing system with a view to achieving a better and economically viable transportation system, all possible modes of transportation are needed to be considered. The two major modes of transportation: railways and waterways have not yet been focused as alternatives to the highways. But it is high time they got focused as well.

Mostly, railways can prove to be much more economical, less time consuming and safer mode of transportation. Also combined use of highways and railways could be an optimistic solution.

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Although our government has been taking steps for improving the highways in the last couple of years, the consideration of combining multiple modes of transportation which can turn out to be an efficient transportation system has not been considered yet.

Lately, the government has taken a mega project of BDT 700 billions to establish an elevated express highway from Dhaka to Chittagong which is a very optimistic project. But still it does not include railway to be combined with it. At this point, the concept of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hybrid Superhighwayâ&#x20AC;? may provide us with the ultimate solution to the problems regarding industrial and domestic transportation.

Concept of Hybrid Superhighway: The concept of Hybrid Superhighway includes the combination of multiple transportation modes and some additional features. Highways are the main industrial transportation mode in Bangladesh and it cannot be replaced by any other transportation mode any time soon. So, without any doubt, the highways are needed to be improved. But it is also needed to be considered that the traffic load on the highways will keep on increasing day by day with the gradual growth of industrialization. Hence an economically viable alternative to the highways is needed to be developed.

Railway has been acting as one of the most economic and safe transportation modes for a long time in many developed countries. In fact, it is the most economical way of transportation when it comes to roadways.

The geological features of

Bangladesh also support the possibility of a well-organized railway network. So, combining railway and highway together in the same route can result in the reduction of traffic load on the highways and provide with faster transportation.

Also the underground space of the highways can be utilized in another effective way. Tunnels can be made right underneath the highways which will serve multiple purposes. Through these tunnels, gas supplies and optical fiber wires can easily be transported and managed in an efficient manner. These tunnels can also carry industrial waste water to the central ETPs without contaminating river or ground water.

Hence the concept of Hybrid Superhighway can be summarized as the combination of highway, railway and underground tunnel.

If this concept can be brought into practice, it will indisputably contribute to the solution of our transportation problems to an unimaginable extent.

UETT (Unified Effluent Transportation Tunnel) and ETZ (Effluent Treatment Zone) in Pollution Control At the beginning of industrialization in Bangladesh, pollution was not considered important since the industrialists did not seem to be taking this issue into consideration. Moreover, the concept that the effluents will eventually wash away with the river and canal water encouraged the factories to be built in locations beside rivers and other nearby places without considering the need for effluent processing. But it was, indeed, a great mistake which can be realized from the present condition of river water pollution in our country.

H o w e v e r, l a t e r s t a g e s o f industrialization involved inclusion of ETPs in the factories.

According to recent studies, most of the ETPs are discharging their treated effluents to the environment. Theoretically, the water in the rivers is mostly containing clean effluents. But the real scenario is that the rivers are getting polluted to an extent beyond our imagination. Nobody knows where these untreated effluents are coming from despite the fact that the government is said to be monitoring the ETPs. This is because the effluent treatment responsibilities directly lie with the factories. It is quite obvious that the factories will try to avoid such responsibilities as much as possible and focus on more profit generation.

Hitherward, the utter negligence of some corrupted factories is resulting in the increased river water pollution. So, this particular responsibility should be handed over to another specialized monitoring body that will be responsible only for the treatment of the effluents.

Another reason for river water pollution is that the effluents are thrown directly into the rivers. These effluents may be either treated or untreated.

Untreated effluents pollute the rivers mostly. If these untreated effluents could be kept away from getting into contact with river water then it would be possible to keep the river water free from contamination by industrial effluents. Therefore, a separate tunnel network is needed to be built which will transport the untreated effluents towards a central ETP. The above scenario gives birth to two concepts: 1. UETT (Unified Effluent

Transportation Tunnel) 2. ETZ (Effluent Treatment Zone) UETT (Unified Effluent Transportation Tunnel): In order to transport the effluents, a tunnel network can be built in industrial areas and EPZs. This will be the common network into which the adjacent factories will dump their effluents which will eventually be processed by ETZs (Effluent Treatment Zones).

Hence the effluents will not get into the rivers untreated. Also the factories will not be solely responsible for the treatment of the effluents. Here even if any corrupted factory tries to hack the system, the effluents produced by it will not affect the river water directly.

This concept of combined effluent collection tunnel can be entitled as UETT (Unified Effluent Transportation Tunnel). This can be integrated with the concept of Hybrid Superhighway where the underground tunnel of the Hybrid Superhighway will serve as the UETT. Also it will be easier to monitor the total amount of effluents produced every day and which factories are producing effluents at what volume. An arrangement for measuring the amount of effluents coming from the individual factories can be made and a certain amount of money can be charged for the treatment of the effluents produced by the respective factories.

ETZ (Effluent Treatment Zone): The effluents coming from the UETT network are needed to be treated to an environment-friendly level. To do that, a lot of ETPs are needed. But the establishment of ETPs in an unplanned manner will result in improper and insufficient treatment of the effluents. So, bigger ETPs with larger area are

needed here. This requirement gives birth to the concept of ETZ (Effluent Treatment Zone).

Conceptually, ETZ is a largely established ETP where an entire zone like EPZ will accommodate a number of ETPs. The sole purpose of ETZ is to collect the effluents from UETT through a pipeline and treat them before discharging them into canals, rivers or sea. These ETZs will be established in suitable places adjacent to the UETT lines and hence connected to them.

The cost for the treatment can be taken from the factories connected to the UETT network.

The government can then practically monitor the effluent production and charge for the cost of treatment accordingly.

This concept will contribute to efficient effluent treatment as well as to direct ecological safety.

An unplanned industrialization, no matter how much profit generating it is, poses a huge threat to the generations to come. We cannot just leave behind an unplanned, unhealthy and vulnerable abode for our successors only for the sake of â&#x20AC;&#x153;making profitsâ&#x20AC;? for the time being. Focusing on a rapid industrial growth without the consideration of its sustainability and its impact on the environment as well as on the living beings is not going to serve us for long.

Therefore, it is high time we realized this undeniable fact and took significant initiatives with a view to ensuring a sustainable industrialization (having planned location, suitable transportation facility and proper waste management) and an economically as well as ecologically healthy, safe and sound environment.

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Graphene The Material that We knew All Along BUT...

Mohammad Abbas Uddin (Shiyak), PhD, CTex FTI Principal Engineering Consultant Reed Consulting Bangladesh Ltd

What is Graphene?

The world is always looking for a new revolutionary material that could change the way we see and use products. There is carbon era, then the silicon, and it always happens that at some point these materials come nearly to the end of their most potential uses. And now there is ‘Graphene’.

Graphene is one atom thick hexagonally arranged pure carbon, the thinnest material known so far. To get a comparison, a gram of graphene could cover a whole football pitch.

It is not possible to get further reduction of thickness since it cannot be sliced further, as it will lose its material properties and will become element.

Figure 1: Graphene, a one atom thick material

The History of Graphene

The history of pencil from its invention in 1656 England can be dubbed as history of graphene.

But it took almost 400 years to isolate graphene from the original source, pencil, which consist of millions of ultra-thin layers of graphene that stack together to form graphite. ‘Graphene’ was first mentioned in 1987 to describe the graphite layers; however, scientists did not know how to isolate them.

The first extraction of graphene with one atom thickness took place using ‘scotch tape’ (mechanical exfoliation) as a part of every Friday fun experiment in a laboratory of the University of Manchester. In 2004, for the first time, Professor Sir Andre Geim and Professor Sir Kostya Novoselov made a breakthrough and discovered and isolated a single atomic layer of carbon. The pair received the Nobel Prize in Physics in 2010 in recognition of this achievement. Subsequently, the £61m National Graphene Institute (NGI) is created in the University of Manchester as the national centre for graphene research in the UK. The ‘Scotch tape method’ is very simple and effective to isolate graphene layer in laboratory scale which led to exponential research on graphene around the world. However, there are considerable challenges to produce commercial scale graphene that may require sophisticated technique which is yet to be fully materialised.

Properties of Graphene

Most important property of Graphene is that it is a 2D material in 3D world. In scientific world it should not exist but it does. Graphene is strange in the sense that neither it is metal nor it is semiconductor (or insulator).

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Structurally, graphene is membrane like material and is similar to diamond with a molecule bond length of 0.142 nanometres. The carbon atoms strongly interacted through strong sigma bond through the overlap of the plane sp2 orbitals.

It has very high spring constant, K (~ 50 eV/ Å2), and its Young’s Modulus, Y (~ 1 TPa), is one of the largest in nature. Comparatively it is the lightest (0.77mg/m2) yet 100 to 300 times stronger than steel or Kevlar. Since sigma bonds are very strong therefore it does not accept foreign materials and therefore remain in extremely pure stage unless atoms absorbed in between the surfaces or structural deformation occurs.

Although strong graphene is soft and flexible, it can be deformed into any shape particularly in the direction normal to its surface. The material shows negative thermal expansion coefficient, i.e. it shrinks when it is warmed and stretches when it is cooled. The material is transparent and impermeable to gases.

Graphene is unique in electrical and thermal conductivity and optical properties. Electrical conductivity is thousand times better than copper and the thermal conductivity is comparable to that of diamond (~ 50 W/cm.K).

Natural graphene shows the highest electronic mobility among all the electronic materials (>100,000 cm2/Vs at 300 K), much larger than Si (~1,500 cm2/Vs), with approximately 1000 km per sec speed around 30 times faster than silicon. Graphene is able to absorb a rather large 2.3% of white light as compared to its thickness.

Potential Applications in Textile

The potential application of graphene can be endless: in transport, medicine, electronics, energy, defence, desalination to name a few.

The most obvious application of graphene can be used as a coating to improve current touch screens for phones, tablets and LED TVs. A report by IDTechEx (UK) showed that the graphene market has the potential to reach nearly $200 million by 2026.

The application of graphene is still a new area and mostly focuses on the uses of its electrical and electronic properties and in wearable electronic devices such as clothing materials containing chips, computers, phones etc.

Monolayer graphene can be used as electrode

and then can be embedded in yarn to finally produce fabric and garment. This yarn can be used in various applications such as textile GPS systems, to biomedical monitoring, personal security or communication tools in the final product. Korean scientists from the Electronics and Telecommunications Research Institute and Konkuk University in Seoul developed e-fabrics which can detect dangerous gases present in the air, such as nitrogen dioxide and alert the wearer by turning on an LED light.

Other potential applications of graphene could be as composite materials. Depending on the end use, graphene can be combined to other materials to impart functional properties, enhance performance and increase application possibilities. Colmar, an Italian sportswear brand, has launched a sportswear collection containing Graphene Plus to produce ski jackets, ski suits, technical underwear and polo shirt. This is the first application of graphene plus as nanotechnology in sportswear, in which the smart fabric acts as a filter between the body and the external environment, to ensure the ideal temperature for the wearer. The heat produced by the human body in warm climate is dispersed while in cold climates heat is preserved and distributed evenly.

There are other textile applications for graphene beyond smart textiles. The Hohenstein Institut für Textilinnovation, Germany, is exploring graphene modification of the surface of textiles to be used for personal protective equipment (PPE) with flame resistant properties along with prevention of penetration of heat and gases.

Graphene or graphene derivatives can be used as printing ink to provide conductivity, thermal dissipation, or antistatic properties.

Bibliography

A. K. Geim and K. S. Novoselov (2007), The rise of graphene, Nature Materials 6, 183 – 191.

A. I. S. Neves, T. H. Bointon, L. V. Melo, S. Russo, I. de Schrijver, M. F. Craciun & H. Alves (2015), Transparent conductive graphene textile fibers, Scientific Reports 5, Nature, http://www.nature.com/ articles/srep09866, Accessed on 10 July 2016.

The University of Manchester, http://www.graphene.manchester. ac.uk/, Accessed on 10 July2016.

National University of Singapore (2011), Graphene, http://graphene. nus.edu.sg/content/graphene, Accessed on 10 July2016.

The University of Exeter (2015), Graphene holds key to unlocking creation of wearable electronic devices, http://www.exeter.ac.uk/ news/research/title_450654_en.html, Accessed on 10 July 2016.

Advanced Textile Source (2015), Study anticipates growth for graphene,http://advancedtextilessource.com/tag/graphene/, Accessed on 10 July 2016.

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43

Critical Aspects of Polyester–Elastane Blend Dyeing Monjur Morshed Deputy Manager, Dystar Singapore Pvt Ltd (Liaison office in Bangladesh), Dhaka

Nayon Chandra Ghosh

Senior Lecturer, Primeasia University, Dhaka Abstract The elastane fibers’ elasticity and wet fastness levels can easily be impaired with conventional processing methods and dyes used for polyester and blends with elastane need special attention when it comes to the maximum dyeing temperature, the choice of the dyes and auxiliaries, and finishes applied. Its fastness levels and maintaining of elasticity depend highly on these factors. There is no range for the dyeing of PES/PUE or PES/CEL/PUE in the market that overcomes the problems with these articles: good wet fastness level, high reliability of the dyeing and at the same time keeps the mechanical (stretch) properties intact. Renowned dyestuffs suppliers recommend a range of suitable medium energy disperse dyestuffs with highest yield at low temperatures with excellent wet-fastness levels.

Introduction Today one can find elastane fibers in various blends and for a multiple of applications (e.g.

Sportswear and underwear). The majority of elastane fiber-blends contain polyester (Polyester combined with Elastane or Polyester combined with Cotton and Elastane). The main well known elastane brands such as Lycra®+, Spandex®+ or Dow XLA®+, bring elastic properties with stretch and comfort effects, enhancing the finished garments in terms of wearing and durability. As the elastane fibers’ elasticity and wet fastness levels can easily be impaired with conventional processing methods and dyes used for polyester, blends with elastane need special attention when it comes to the maximum dyeing temperature, the choice of the dyes and auxiliaries, and finishes applied. Its fastness levels and maintaining of elasticity depend highly on these factors. Different renowned dyes manufacturers recommend a complete range of suitable dyestuffs with highest yield at low temperatures with excellent wet-fastness levels.

What are Elastomeric Fibers?

Fiber composed of at least 85% by mass of segmented polyurethane (PUE) and which if stretched to three times its unstretched length, rapidly reverses substantially to the unstretched length when the tension is removed.

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Characteristics PUE fibers possess very high elasticity and consist of soft and hard segments, mostly amorphous. PUE fibers usually contain high amount of silicon oil to improve the elasticity.

Field of Use PUE fibers are used in fiber blends to improve the elasticity of the final article (e.g. Sportswear, fashion article and underwear).

The Growth of Elastane Yarns Elastane (spandex) yarns were the apparel fiber success story of the 90’s. The comfort and shape retention of garments containing elastane yarns led quickly to their widespread use in swimwear, foundation garments, hosiery, sports and leisure-wear. The use of elastane yarns has spread into a wide range of apparel, both formal and casual. Consumer preference for garments containing elastane yarns has been so strong that retailers consider that the fit and stretch recovery of these garments will set the standard for all garments for the future.

At present, this performance can most easily be provided by the use of elastane yarns.

Elastane Yarn Suppliers Elastane yarn production is expected to grow continuously over the next five years at a rate of

15-20% per year. The demand expectations for 2005 were 190,000 tonnes. It is estimated that some 35–40% of all apparel worldwide contains some elastane fiber. In case of man-made fibers, this percentage could be even higher.

Major Producers

Brands

Dupont (USA)

Lycra

Taekwang (South Korea)

Acepora

hyosung T&C Co. (South Korea)

Toplan

bayer Faser (germany)

Dorlastan

Tongkook (South Korea)

Texlon

Radicispandex (USA)

glospan, Cleerspan

Asahi (Japan)

Roica

Toyobo (Japan)

Espa

Processing Issues in Polyester/Elastane Fabrics Elastane fibers are generally defined as manmade fibers in which the fiber-forming substance is a synthetic polymer containing at least 85% by weight of segmented polyurethane. As shown in the diagram, elastane fibers contain crosslinked hard and soft segments. The stretch properties result from the uncoiling of the soft segments, which are mostly polyether chains and much less commonly polyester chains.

Hard segments are based on diisocyanate polyurethane chemistry.

Elastane, either as bare or covered yarn, is always used with other textile fibers in fabric construction. Bare yarns are generally clear or bright (semi-dull). Bare dull yarns, which give problems of “grin-through” in dark shades in some fabric constructions, are now uncommon.

Covered yarns have an elastane filament core, wrapped with another staple or filament yarn, and are widely used in woven fabrics.

Polyether-based elastane yarns are resistant to a wide range of chemicals, allowing elastanecontaining fabrics to be dyed by processes similar to those used for non-elastane containing fabrics of similar construction. Chlorine-releasing chemicals should be used only where their effect on the elastane yarn has been checked. The combination of high temperatures and tension, however, can cause a permanent stretching of elastane yarns, resulting in lower denier and loss of stretch recovery power. Overfeeding in the stenter cannot reverse this stretching.

Of all the fibers with which elastane yarns are combined, polyester is the most difficult for 2 main reasons1. Conventional exhaust dyeing processes for polyester at 130°C in jet-dyeing machines are potentially damaging to the stretch recovery power of elastane yarns. Elastane yarns from different manufacturers show some variation in sensitivity.

2. Disperse dyes have high affinity for both polyester and elastane, both of which are hydrophobic in character, but build-up properties are preferentially on the open-structured elastane fibers; wet fastness of disperse dyes on elastane is very poor. Production of high fastness dyeing on polyester/elastane fabrics is therefore difficult, especially when polyester microfiber is used.

Disperse dyes dyed on polyester/elastane blends will preferentially dyed fiber at 70°C to 130°C for 30 min and migrate slowly from elastane part to polyester part. Relatively little dye migrates from stained elastane to polyester after 30 minutes at 130 °C in blank dye bath.

Fig: Structure of elastane molecule

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Polyester part

Elastane part Fig: Dyed polyester/elastane blend with disperse dyes

Elastane

Polyester

Fig: Migration test result for 30 minutes at 130°C, pH 4.5 Reduction clearing of dyed polyester/elastane fabrics under alkaline conditions is essential to optimize the wet fastness, improve the storage fastness, optimize the shade stability to post heat-setting. Dye selection should aim to produce little or no disperse dye stain on elastane (ideal) after reduction clearing and disperse dye stain on the elastane on-tone with the polyester (second best).

General Comments on Dye Selection Selection of disperse dyes for polyester/elastane fabric is limited by two issues: • Potential damage to elastane fibers at high temperatures.

• Reduced wet fastness caused by residual disperse dye in the elastane fibers.

Selection of reliable dyes which will minimize the need for shading additions is essential in dyeing polyester/elastane blends, to avoid damage to the elastane yarns by prolonged dyeing times.

Key Factors in Successful Dye Selection Dyes used in combination should be compatible in rate of absorption and diffusion; this will minimize dyeing time by optimizing Right-FirstTime performance. Right-First-Time dyeing of polyester/elastane blends with good shade reproducibility and optimum wet fastness at 125-130°C can be achieved in: • Pale shades with low energy disperse dyes.

• Medium-heavy shades with selected medium energy disperse dyes.

• Heavy shades with selected high energy

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disperse dyes for highest wash fastness.

Other Key Factors in Successful Dye Selection • Dyes should be easily cleared from elastane yarns by reduction clearing after dyeing to optimize wet fastness of the dyed fabrics. This is very difficult to achieve over a full shade range.

• After reduction clearing, any residual disperse dye on elastane should be on-tone with the shade on polyester, to minimize both “grinning” of elastane yarns and to avoid the danger of offtone color transfer from elastane to polyester during post-setting and a possible change of shade of the fabric.

• To optimize shade reproducibility after both dyeing and post-setting, full color yield and full fiber penetration should be achieved after a maximum of 30 minutes at 130 °C. In spite of these difficulties, polyester/elastane blends have become very popular in the last few years in a wide range of fashion, sports and leisure fabrics. With care and experience, this blend can be dyed with good fastness and stretch recovery properties. Alternatives to disperse dyeing have been tried, but none are fully satisfactory. Combinations of cationicdyeable polyester with elastane can be dyed with basic dyes at 105-110 °C, but the relatively high cost of these modified polyester yarns has restricted their use to high-value segments such as polyester/wool/elastane. Furthermore, combination of dyed polyester yarns with

elastane produces fabrics which only need dry finishing, with less loss of stretch recovery.

Production costs are again higher compared with piece-dyed fabrics, and color fastness is not as high as might be expected because of color migration from polyester to elastane during finishing.

Problem Areas When Dyeing PES/PUE Blends • PUE fibers are sensitive to very high amount of carrier.

• HT processes can affect the stability and elasticity.

• Extreme PH variations within the processing sequence can impair the PUE fiber characteristics.

• PUE fibers can absorb very high amounts of disperse dyes without forming a colorfast chemical bond.

• The silicone oil in the PUE fiber blend can cause the disperse dye to “sweat out” during subsequent treatments and storage.

• All disperse dyes have a high tendency to desorption and thermo-migration out of the PUE fiber.

• Thermosetting and storage impair the wet fastness results.

produce the long tube, or banana-style jet dyeing machine which has proved very successful in dyeing synthetic fiber/elastane fabrics.

Fig: Jet dyeing machine (Hisaka Cut SRThies soft-TRD) Several producers of round machines had met the needs of elastane-containing fabrics for low tension by reducing the distance between dye liquor and lifter reel, e.g. the Then Airflow AFT and Gaston County Millennium machines, in which the reel has been dropped inside the dyeing chamber.

Choice of Processing Route The choice and sequence of processing steps depends on the construction of the polyester/ elastane fabric. Typical processing routes are:

Key Factors in Successful High-Temperature Dyeing of Polyester/Elastane Fabrics with Disperse Dyes • Use of lowest possible dyeing temperatures consistent with producing level, fully-penetrated dyeing.

• Use of low-tension jet-dyeing machines.

• Efficient pre-scouring to remove mineral and silicone oils.

• Careful selection of dyes and chemicals.

• Efficient reduction clearing of dyed fabrics.

• Use of lowest possible heat-setting temperatures in pre or post-heat setting consistent with production of dimensionally stable fabrics.

Fig: Process route for different types of fabrics

Choice of Dyeing Machinery Low fabric tension is important in minimizing loss of stretch recovery power at all stages of processing polyester/elastane fabrics, but nowhere more than in the high temperature dye bath. At the 1999 ITMA in Paris the success of elastane containing fabrics was reflected in the wide range of low-tension machines on offer.

Most leading machine manufacturers now

Some general recommendations 1. Relaxation of knitting and weaving tensions is very important to give the fibers the desired elasticity.

The following relaxation methods can be used:

Weft-knit fabrics containing more than 8% elastane yarn should, in principle, be slit, pre-set and re-sewn before dyeing. The high process costs make this an unusual choice. Pre-setting weft-knits may become more popular after the introduction of circular heat-setting machines by several machinery makers (Santex, Dornier, Sperotto-Rimar, Heliot).

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Relaxation on the steaming table: The compression ratio is mainly determined by the structure of the fabric, but can be set within a certain range by adjusting the amount of steam and the speed of the goods. The goods are fed into the unit without tension and with the necessary overfeed.

Relaxation by steaming on the stenter: Relaxation can be influenced by controlling the fabric width and overfeed. Widthwise shrinkage is lower than on the steaming table because the goods sag slightly on the stenter.

Relaxation during solvent scouring: Perchloroethylene is the most commonly used solvent. It removes all types of grease and oil, most other spinning lubricants and the spinfinish on elastane fibers. This is a continuous, open-width process on low-tension solvent scouring units.

Relaxation by treatment with hot water: Scouring and shrinkage can be performed simultaneously in a low-tension open-width washer at temperatures between 60 °C and 95 °C. 2. Setting of polyester/elastane fabrics can be carried out before or after dyeing, and the choice depends both on economic (post-setting is cheaper) and technical arguments. With pre-setting, fabrics are leaner, crease marking is reduced and color fastness is better. Postsetting gives better stretch recovery power and a fuller hand. The choice of setting is dependent on the fabric end-use requirements. The fabric construction and the type of elastane fiber dictate post-setting temperatures. To optimize color fastness, the lowest possible temperature should be chosen. Pre-setting is commonly carried out at 185–195 °C. Pre-scouring Process For lubrication of elastane yarns during fabric construction, all producers apply between 2 and 5% silicone oil, which forms a protective film on the surface of the fiber. This should be efficiently removed by pre-treatment to avoid later processing difficulties.

The preparation for dyeing of polyester/elastane fabrics is more difficult than that of 100% polyester. Pre-setting volatilizes some of the

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silicone oils, but wet scouring is needed for efficient removal. Efficient pre-treatment has the following benefits: • Reduces the spotting and staining during dyeing.

• Minimises disperse dye stain on elastane fibers.

• Reduces the risk of smoking during finishing.

• Reduces migration of disperse dye during storage and transport of dyed fabrics and garments, which can otherwise lead to reduced color fastness.

In many cases it is necessary to remove the combination of mineral oil, lubricant and silicone oil from polyester/elastane to prevent problems.

The most efficient method for pre-scouring such fabrics is under alkaline conditions. Serafil SBS (Dystar) gives excellent results in scouring polyester/elastane when applied as shown in the diagram. Cold water pre-rinsing removes a high proportion of the silicone oil. Any remaining silicone oil, mineral oil and lubricant are removed in a second bath at 80 °C, adding 1 g/l Sera Quest C-PX (Dystar) if soft water is not available.

Fig: Pre-scouring process curve

Dyeing Processes Before dyes and dyeing processes are selected for polyester/elastane fabrics, one important question must be answered: Can the fabric be dyed at 125–130 °C with a level of stretch recovery which is acceptable?

Elastane fiber producers are understandably reluctant to recommend these dye bath temperatures even though they know that dyers are successfully using these conditions on many fabrics with careful choice of machinery and dyes. However, the producers have no control over this choice.

Commission dyers are often reluctant to dye at temperatures higher than 115 °C, because they normally have little knowledge of the yarn

source and fabric construction. Elastane yarns from different manufacturers vary in the extent of damage at high temperature, and in the severity of staining by disperse dyes.

Reduction Clearing Process Efficient clearing of disperse dye stain on elastane yarns after dyeing is recommended for all depths of shade to:

The consequences of dyeing at 115 °C are: • Reduced color fastness.

• Reduced shade reproducibility and the likely need for more shading additions, causing further damage to the elastane yarns.

• Inferior coverage of yarn differences i.e. increased barré.

• Reduced color yield.

• Danger of shade change on post-setting due to incomplete dye penetration during dyeing.

• Reduced stretch recovery of elastane yarns due to the use of carrier, needed to improve dye yield on the polyester.

• Optimize the wet fastness of the dyed fabric.

• Improve the storage fastness of the dyed fabric.

• Optimize the shade stability to post heatsetting; reduction clearing of all depths of shade will improve the shade stability to post-setting.

Principle of Polyester Dyeing Transfer to monomolecular form starting at around 80°C when PES starts to open (Glass transition point of PES at 82°C)

Fig: Phases of exhaust dyeing of polyester

Reduction clearing with the following recipe will clear most disperse dyes efficiently: 4–8 ml/l Caustic soda 38 °Bé 3–4 g/l Hydro sulfite Conc. (BASF) 0.5 g/l Sera Wash M-VFN 20 min at 80–85 °C Conclusion It is quite challenging to achieve all the stringent requirements such as fastness, stretch recovery and depth of shade during processing of PESElastane fabrics. Hence it is imperative to have basic understanding of complexities involved with these fibers processing which can assist both retailers and dyeing processing mills to materialize and produce such type of critical materials with certain limitations. Eventually, it is a matter of careful selection of dyeing processes, dyes and chemicals and sophisticated dyeing machineries which determine the ultimate success of polyester-lycra processing.

Bibliography

Broadbent, A. D. (2001). Basic Principles of Textile Coloration, SDC, ISBN 0-901956-76-7, Bradford, UK. Aspland, J. R. (1992). A Series on Dyeing, Chapter 8: Disperse Dyes and Their Application to Polyester, Text.

Chem. Col., Vol. 24, No. 12, (December 1992), pp. 18–23, ISSN 0040-490X. Aspland, J. R. (1993). A Series on Dyeing, Chapter 9: The Structure and Properties of Disperse Dyes And Related Topics, Text. Chem. Col., Vol. 25, No. 1, (January 1993),pp.

21–25, ISSN 0040-490X. Aspland, J. R. (1997). Textile Dyeing and Coloration, AATCC, ISBN 0-9613350-1-7, NC, USA.

Fig: Dyeing process curve

Burkinshaw, S. M. (1995). Chemical Principles of Synthetic Fibre Dyeing, Blackie Academic & Professional, ISBN 0-7514-0043-2, Glasgow, UK.

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I’m Muslin I’m Muslin

Muslin

Muslin

Muslin lii

I’m Muslin I’m Muslin

Md. Sohanur Rahman Sobuj ID: 2013-1-4-062 Department of Apparel Engineering

Muslin: Hey, do you hear me?

Rifat: I’m sorry? Who are you?

Muslin: How come you don’t recognize me! About 400-500 years ago, you people were familiar to the whole world just because of me and now you have completely forgot about me!

Rifat: No, I mean you look somehow familiar to me. Are you the “Muslin”?

Muslin: Yes! I’m your long lost heritage “Dhakai Muslin”.

Rifat: We have heard about your glorious heritage from our grandparents.

Muslin: Really? What did you hear about me?

Rifat: We’ve heard that the honor of “Muslin” was really great to the Emperors and the Nawabs. It was so subtle that a piece of cloth of Muslin with a measurement about the length of 13 hands could be folded in a small match box. During the reign of Esa Khan, a saree made of Muslin fabric with finer quality yarn could easily be passed through a signet ring.

My grandma told me that there was a saying that, if the Muslin fabric was spread on a grass

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I’m Muslin l I’m Muslin l

I’m Muslin l I’ Muslin li

Muslin i

I’m Muslin

field, the cattle couldn’t identify its existence while eating grass from the field, consequently, they ate the grass along with the fabric.

Muslin: Didn’t your grandma tell you anything more about me?

Rifat: Yes. Muslin was manufactured in the city of Dhaka and in some surrounding stations such as Sonargaon, Dhamrai, Teetbady, Junglebary, and Bajitpur, by local skills with locally produced cotton. Dhaka Muslin was more famous in all over the word than all other Muslin or fabrics because of its delicacy and thinness. The 1,000 counts Dhaka Muslin was much more expensive.

Nawab Murshid Quli Khan (reign: 1717 to 1727) bought one khanda (2.5 metres) of the 1,000-count Muslin from a weaver for Rs 400. In the great 1851 Exhibition of London, Dhaka Muslin occupied a prominent place, attracted a large number of visitors and the British Press spoke very highly of the marvelous Muslin fabrics of Dhaka.

Muslin: Yes, you are right!

Rifat: Why did you, despite being a fabric of such distinctive

features, get abolished?

Muslin: After the industrial revolution of Europe, yarns and fabrics were produced in cheaper rate than ever before. And extra tax was implemented by the British government of that time on Muslin buyers, so the price went up really high. That is how I lost my demand and popularity among the people. Moreover, nobody from the Mughal Empire or the Nawabbusinessmen came forward to rescue me from heading towards extinction. You can’t even imagine how the craftsmen were oppressed by East India Company during that period. (Muslin started to weep).

Rifat: Hey, don’t cry, Muslin, I understand how much grievous your story is.

Muslin: (Deep sigh)!

Rifat: Now tell me, how could such a subtle and transparent fabric be produced back in those days? Now we can produce 100-120 counts of yarn in most of the cases. But during your time, a yarn of 900-1100 counts could be produced.

How was this possible!

Muslin: Among different types of cotton, only phuti karpas cotton was the best for producing Muslin. After removing foreign matter from karpas, the fibers were then combed using the tiny teeth of the Valuga fish jaw bone. Weavers then used a bamboo bow to twang and separate the fibers further, and arranged them in roves.

Women spun yarn for Dhaka Muslin starting from the dawn unto around 10 am until the sun dried up the morning dew, and the light did not have too much glare.

Rifat: What kinds of looms were used for your production?

Muslin: Mainly pit looms were used for my production.

Rifat: Pit looms? What is that?

Muslin: A large pit is dug in the ground and the soil is tamped down all around. A little built in seat is hollowed out on one side and a very rudimentary structure made of wood or bamboo makes up the rest of the loom. During the hot summer months, it’s actually very comfortable and cool to sit there and weave. But during the Monsoon rains, water seeps into the pits.

Although they bail the water out, weaving becomes nearly impossible.

Rifat: Oh I see! That’s how it is!

Muslin: Yes. By the way, Can’t you people reclaim me? I want to get back to you like the way I was before!

Rifat: But you were a famous fabric among the Nawabs and Emperors only at that time. And you are too expensive to afford by the general mass. How can we honor you as a part of our daily life?

Muslin: Please, this is my request to you. Do not consider me to be just a fabric you could use. Reclaim me as your honorable heritage from the past.

Rifat: That’s right, but…….

Muslin: You guys always eat coarse rice on a daily basis. That doesn’t make you not to love to have “Basmati rice” right? Please get me back amongst you as soon as possible.

Rifat: But we can’t find cotton seeds of that quality these days. And the climate has been facing a radical change which is way more different than that of your time.

Muslin: I am astonished! How can you even say that despite being a Textile Engineer of 21st century? People around the world have invented new advanced loom technologies and you are confused about how to help me have a comeback? Do you want to say that you are inferior to those illiterate craftsmen?

Rifat: Okay! Okay! Give us your suggestion.

How can we recover you?

Muslin: Do your research on getting cotton seeds with equivalent advantages, how to control the humidity to reproduce Muslin, how we can produce finer count yarn of around 1000 counts. I grew up in here and I want to come back again in this land.

Rifat: Okay dear Muslin! You can have my words that the honor you have given us previously during the Mughal reign, we’ll acknowledge that and get you back the honor that you actually deserved to have but somehow we failed to give that to you. We’ll reclaim you. We’ll try our level best to do that.

Muslin: (With tears of joy) Thanks a lot my dear. Hope you succeed in keeping your commitment.

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Sustainable Growth of the RMG Industries of Bangladesh: Realities and Challenges Md. Mazedul Islam Assistant Professor, Department of Apparel Engineering, BUTEX Sustainability is the major concern in the age of the modern dynamic globe. For textile and apparel sector, this has been a burning issue to many related concerned bodies. Sustainable development indicates the development that meets present needs without compromising future generations’ welfare [1]. From an industry perspective, sustainable development means that the economic bottom line is congruent with improving social conditions and environmentally responsible manufacturing. Sustainable growth of industry can be defined as the design of human and industrial systems to ensure that humankind’s use of natural resources and cycles do not lead to diminished quality of life due to either losses in future economic opportunities or adverse impacts on social conditions, human health and the environment [1]. The readymade garments industry is the backbone of our economy and acting as a catalyst for the country’s sustainable development. We take pride in the sector that has been fetching billions of dollars as export earnings and creating jobs for almost 4.3 millions of people.

Apparel sector accounts for almost 81.69 % of total export earnings of the country [2]. The tag “Made in Bangladesh” is the glorious issue for us, introducing it as a prestigious brand across the world. Bangladesh that was once called by cynics “a bottomless basket” has now become “a basket full of surprises”. The country with its limited resources has brought about remarkable economic, social and human development.

Bangladesh is expected to achieve the middleincome country status by the year 2021 where government targeted export revenue is USD 50 billion [3]. It is firmly expected that the dream will turn into reality within the stipulated time and RMG industry will definitely play crucial

52

role in reaching the zenith of dream for which sustainable growth of RMG industry is a must.

The jute industry, another export earner as started losing its glorious market, it is the RMG sector that replaced it and then to overtake it.

Despite many difficulties faced by the sector, it has carved a niche in world market and kept continuing to show robust performance.

However, the MFA-quota and post-MFA era is another story of success. Proving many predictions and criticisms wrong, apparel sector has conquered the post-MFA challenges. Now, apparel industry is Bangladesh’s biggest export earner with value of over USD 28.09 billion of exports in the FY 2015-2016 [4]. Export earnings from shipment of woven garments increased by nearly 13% to $14.74 billion in the last fiscal year from $13.06 billion while earnings from knitwear products rose by 7.47% to $13.35 billion from $12.43 billion [4].

Despite the rapid growth of our clothing industry with its bright prospects, challenges are still huge. Presently, the biggest challenge faced by our RMG industry is to ensure sound and safe working conditions for the workers [5]. Few major accidents like the Tazreen fire incident and the Rana Plaza collapse have brought the issues of environmental sustainability, workplace safety and led all stakeholders to act accordingly. Many members of BGMEA, BKMEA, professional experts are working all-out to carry out the corrective action plans suggested by the university academicians, researchers, accord, alliance and national plan of action after quality assessment. However, ensuring environmental sustainability and workplace safety in all garment factories is a gigantic task and will take time to get accomplished [5]. But we believe,

the Bangladesh government, BGMEA, BKMEA, BUTEX, other public, private university with the support of global brands and development partners, will be able to ensure that of the RMG industry and maintain the dynamisms of socioeconomic development in the country.

On the other hand, a more glittering future is waiting for the RMG industry of Bangladesh; at least research works, facts and figures have encouraged us to believe so. A recent study jointly by the United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA) and the University of Rhode Island (URI) has made us more optimistic about the potentialities of our RMG industry [6, 9]. The US-based fashion companies are expected to boost their sourcing from Bangladesh in the upcoming years as stated in their study [9].

McKinsey, a global management consulting firm, indicates Bangladesh as the next biggest hotspot in apparel sourcing. The firm forecasts export-value growth of 7-9% annually and our apparel export will nearly double by 2020 provided that we can fruitfully overcome few challenges i.e. infrastructural problems, environmental issues and skilled workforces [7, 9]. So, at any cost we have to protect the interest of this industry which has given our economy a strong footing, provided jobs for millions of people especially for women, enlightened them from the darkness of chronic poverty and provided them better dignified life [2].

Now, what we need to do is to deal with all the challenges facing our garment industry, paving the way for its further development.

So, the government should consider giving gas, transportation facilities and electricity connections to RMG and textile units as the top priority [8]. Also creating skilled manpower is another big task and overcoming all these above challenges will determine whether the country will be able to maintain a smooth flourish which is waiting. Although BGMEA, BKMEA, public and private universities along with the government and other organizations have taken the initiatives of developing skilled manpower, yet more initiatives are required to meet the demand and enhance the productivity of the industry. The budget allocation of the government for the sustainable growth of this sector also needs to be increased.

In that case, Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX) can play a vital role. Government, national and international organizations should offer various research and development projects to BUTEX for better sustainable growth of RMG industries. If adequate supports provided, Bangladesh University of Textiles could be the center of technological excellence from where the RMG industry can seek technological support, solutions to industry oriented problems and research collaborations. Currently, BUTEX is offering graduate and post-graduate degrees to students on textile engineering, textile fashion design, wet process engineering, fabric engineering, yarn engineering, industrial and production engineering, textile engineering management, apparel manufacturing, merchandising and retailing related subjects.

Besides, to meet the current shortfall of competent professionals in various levels of our garment factories, fashion design, textile and industrial merchandising related departments, short courses are needed to be started at our major public and private universities. Also, training and developing a capable pool of skilled human resource, especially from young generation, to support the RMG industry is mandatory.

As China and India are finding it challenging to make textile and footwear items at cheap price, due to rising labor costs, foreign investors are targeting Bangladesh to have advantages of the low labor cost. Local accessories are being made including zippers, buttons, labels, hooks, hangers, elastic bands, thread, backboards, butterfly pins, clips, collar stays, collarbones and cartons. But the accessory market is dominated by multinational companies operating in Bangladesh as garment buyers prefer accessories from them over the locally available items. However, we need to diversify the destinations of our products export and concentrate on high-end products like suits, lingerie, technical textiles etc. for the sustained growth of the industry. Infrastructures, bureaucratic complexity, corruptions, lack of research development activities, technological drawbacks, less skilled manpower, internal dispute, political instability, high production costs are still the major problematic issues for

53

Fig: General Scenario of Apparel Industry of Bangladesh sustainable growth of the industry [8].

Now Bangladesh is one of the new emerging countries in the world. The macroeconomic stability, satisfactory annual average GDP growth, robust performance of remittance and export, strong foreign currency reserve, remarkable social and human development etc. reflect our underlying strengths. Recently, the heinous terrorist attack at Gulshan’s Holey Artisan Bakery has left the country’s key RMG industry into turmoil, making the buyers rethink over their travel plans to our country, causing a decline in business security and hence, there might be potential economic fall-off for a sector dependent on foreign investment. It is expected that the government would take necessary References

measure so that such type of occurrence is never repeated in Bangladesh. However, we have to develop a technological innovation chain among the universities, other stakeholders and RMG industries of Bangladesh to stimulate continuous development practice and ensure progress towards an effective innovation ecosystem. Considering the dominance of the RMG industry in the overall economy of Bangladesh, working hand in hand is mandatory to protect this sector. Finally, wholehearted efforts from manufacturers, buyers, suppliers, government, university academicians, professional experts and other stockholders are expected for dynamic, potential and sustainable growth of RMG industries of Bangladesh. Can we deny this collective responsibility?

1. Allwood, J. M. (2006). Well dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the United Kingdom.

Cambridge, UK: University of Cambridge, Institute of Manufacturing.

2. World Economic Forum (2014). Bangladesh. Retrieved fromhttp://www3.weforum.org/docs/GCR2013-14/Bangladesh.pdf.

3. Leahey, P (2015). Bangladesh’s $50bn RMG export target by 2021. Dhaka Tribune, Retrieved from http://www.dhaka tribune.com/business/2016/April/09/bangladeshs-50bn-rmg-export-target-2021.

4. Bangladesh Business News. retrieved on 2016/July/14 from http://businessnews-bd.com/bangladeshs-export-grows-972-cross-34b-fy16/.

5. Challenges for Bangladesh RMG sector, Asian Development Review, Bangladesh Textile Journal (2011).

6. McKinsey & Company (2015). Bangladesh: The next hotspot in apparel sourcing. Retrieved fromhttp://www.mckinsey. com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/bangladesh-the-next-hot-spot-in-apparel-sourcing.

7. Vision 2021 for the RMG: Celebrating the 50th anniversary of Independence. Retrieved from http://www.hawker.com.bd/ news_details.php?news_id=387753.

8. IslamMd.Mazedul, A. M. (2013). Textile Industries in Bangladesh & Challenges of Growth.Research Journal of Engineering Sciences,Vol: 2 (2), 31-37.

9. McKinsey & Company (2013). The global sourcing map – balancing cost, compliance, and capacity.

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Collagen: Changing the Course of the Future Muh. Amdadul Hoque ID: 2013-1-2-051

Md. Iftekhar Mahmood ID: 2013-1-2-050 Department of Fabric Engineering A famous American architect and inventor R. Buckminster said, “You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.” It is in this spirit that the predictions are made. New science can produce products beyond our present perception. Collagen fiber is that name that made a dream into reality.

structure and its huge application field was in 1930’s. Since then many famous scientists and Nobel laureates made their contribution in its development. Research and development about its application in the advanced medical uses began in the 1980’s.

Collagen is one of the body’s important natural resources and a component of skin tissue and connective tissue. Its application as a wound dressing and surgical material is vastly promising.

Traditional wound dressing such as plasters, bandages, gauze, lint etc. are ineffective due to their excessive drainage and becomes adherent to the wound surface which makes it painful to remove. These dressings are also easily infected, creating discomfort and irritation, become hard, unease in application and unnatural. Over the last 30 years, there has been a shifting from traditional wound dressings towards those advanced dressing that aim to optimize the wound healing environment. Modern wound dressing have been developed to facilitate the function of the wound rather than just to cover it. These dressings are focused to keep the wound from dehydration and promote healing. Collagen fiber is making its mark in this field for its versatile characteristics which facilitates wound healing process.

Well, the uses of collagen did not start in the modern era. The first use of collagen was found to be more than 8000 years old. But then it was used as glue. Egyptians used collagen as adhesive materials in their paintings and wooden furniture. Real scientific discovery about its basic

Fig: Crystal structure of the collagen triple helix

Collagen is a common protein and a key component of the extracellular matrix (ECM) in the living (human or animal) body. As a structural protein, collagen is essential to create the body’s physical structure and as an extracellular matrix it acts as a supporting framework over which our cells are arranged. The collagen molecule is composed of three intertwined peptide chains and forms a triple-helical structure.

This triple-helical structure of collagen arises from an unusual abundance of three amino acids: glycine, proline and hydroxyproline each performing a precise function. Collagen is a rigid protein 300 nm in length, 1.5 nm in diameter, and approximately 300 kilodaltons (kDa) in molecular weight. The entire molecule consists of about 3,000 amino acids. The triple-helical collagen molecules pack together side by side and form fibrils with a diameter of 50-200nm. The collagen molecules in the fibrils displaced one another by about 65nm. Covalent aldol cross-links form between two adjacent collagen molecules. These

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cross-links stabilize the side-by-side packing of collagen molecules and generate a strong fibril.

growth.

• Keeps blood within a damaged blood vessel.

To date 29 types of collagen have been identified.

Over 90% of the collagen in the body is of type I-IV; with the most abundant being Type I. Type I and III are important for wound healing.

In a wound healing process a large number of things happen quickly in a series which includesgathering of platelet, inflammation, rapid increase in fibroblast, cell contraction, formation of new blood vessels and restoration of epithelium cells which ultimately lead to scar formation and wound remodeling. In case of normal wound healing in one of these healing stages, a chronic wound is stalled which usually occurs during the inflammatory phase and is related to higher level of matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) in the wound. MMPs are attracted to the wound and break down unhealthy extracellular matrix (ECM).

This leads to new tissue formation. However, if MMPs are present in higher level for a long time, it causes destruction of healthy ECM and increase wound size. Then an alternative method is needed for wound management, which suggests the role of collagen dressing.

Fig: Schematic of wound healing mechanism of collagen

Collagen fiber plays an important role in each of these phases of wound healing. It attracts cells such as fibroblasts and keratinocytes to the wound. This encourages the removal of damaged tissue, formation of new blood vessels and restoration of epithelium cells. Collagen dressings stimulate new tissue growth and encourage the deposition and organization of newly formed collagen fibers and granulation tissue in the wound bed. These dressings chemically bind to matrix metalloproteinase’s (MMPs) found in the extracellular fluid of wounds.

MMPs normally attack and break down collagen.

Wound dressing containing collagen gives MMPs an alternative collagen source, leaving the body’s natural collagen available for normal wound healing.

In summary, collagen performs these functions in wound healing• Guides fibroblasts which migrate along a connective tissue matrix.

• Attracts fibrogenic cells for healing.

• Creates formation of fibrillar structures.

• Guides new collagen deposition and capillary

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Collagen dressings are suitable in various wound treatment such as bed sores, minor burns, foot ulcers, chronic wounds, large open cuts etc. It is highly effective in• Partial and full thickness wounds.

• Wounds with minimal to heavy exudates.

• Skin grafts and skin donation sites.

• Second-degree burns.

• Granulating or necrotic wounds.

• Chronic non healing wounds.

Common source of collagen fiber is from bovine, porcine, equine, or avian sources. Most of the medical collagen is derived from young beef cattle, which is purified in order to make it nonantigenic. It may contain ingredients, such as alginates and cellulose derivatives that can enhance absorbency, flexibility, and comfort, and help maintain a moist wound environment.

Collagen fiber has excellent biocompatibility which makes it popular choice for using as suture.

They are as strong as silk and are biodegradable and can readily be accepted by body because of their low immunogenicity. Main features of collagen fiber are high tensile strength, excellent biocompatibility, non-antigenic.

Scaffolds with nano-fibrous architecture have been produced by the electro-spinning of chitosan followed by imbibing of collagen solution. This scaffold maintains similar structural and functional attributes of native extracellular matrix which makes it applicable in skin tissue engineering. Collagen fiber is used in cosmetic surgery for reconstruction of bone and

a wide variety of dental, orthopedic, and surgical purposes. It is widely used in bone grafting because of its certain structure and strength.

A fibrous connective tissue called Tendon, which connects muscle to bone. These are made of closely packed fibrous collagen. The tendons in the foot are highly complex and intricate.

Tendon injuries are common in athletes. As the collagen fiber technology has traditionally lacked the ability to create fibers that can be produced continually and controlled, Tendon injuries are notoriously difficult to heal. Currently a team led by Prof. Dr. Mohsen Miraftab at University of Bolton is working on a tendon healing method which can provide a more effective treatment to the damaged tendon. The team has discovered a unique technique to spin collagen fibers, which can be interwoven into the damaged tendon, offering a natural scaffolding support on which cells can grow successfully. The team is pioneering a highly specialized technique, which produces a continuous, single fine thread, developing a strong structure with controllable flexibility and on which cells can flourish.

Since collagen is a natural, widely available protein involved in the support and protection of vital structures, many researchers have tried to use extraneous collagen to protect the surface of the eye in a variety of disease states. The pioneer in this research is Dr. Svyatoslav Fyodorov of the Soviet Union who was able to extract collagen from porcine sclera and shape it in the form of a contact lens that can easily be placed on the surface of the eye. Early experience with his collagen â&#x20AC;&#x153;contact lensâ&#x20AC;? showed that it was able to protect the ocular surface and also that it was dissolvable. It seemed that naturally occurring enzymes in the tear film caused the collagen contact lens to dissolve over a period of time within 24 to 72 hours.

A number of laboratory and clinical studies are beginning to show that the drug concentrations released from the collagen shield are high enough to be effectively used in treating a variety of diseases including infections and inflammation of the ocular surface.

Along with all of its fascinating advantages, it comes with some problems. Particularly when collagen is obtained from bovine or porcine, it transmits severe foot and mouth diseases.

Fig: Collagen as contact lens Collagen derived from animal always contains the risk of zoonosis such as Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE) and there is always the concern of high production cost. So the scientists have been looking for an alternative source and they have turned to the ocean.

Collagen derived from Blue Tilapia fish is the most promising source of fish collagen. Fish collagen is considered to be a novel biomaterial for cell and tissue culture. A team of scientists from American Chemical Society has developed a wound dressing from Tilapia skin collagen sponge and electro spun nano-fibers. They used it to cover rats wound. The rats with the nano-fiber dressing healed faster than those without it. It is found that the collagen nanofibers stimulated the skin regeneration rapidly and effectively. Furthermore, fish collagen was not likely to cause any immune reaction. So it is a good candidate for clinical use. The nano/micro fibrous fish collagen scaffolds were fabricated through self-assembly owing to its amphipathic nature. This collagen scaffold is highly potential in cell and tissue engineering. Despite its huge potential, there is comparatively less on-going research in this field.

Bibliography https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collagen. http://www.woundsresearch.com/content/a-reviewcollagen-and-collagen-based-wound-dressings. http://pubs.acs.org/doi/pdf/10.1021/i360061a018. http://www.wounds-uk.com/made-easy/collagendressings-made-easy&print. https://www.researchgate.net/ publication/236093564_Recent_advances_on_the_ development_of_wound_dressings_for_diabetic_ foot_ulcer_treatment-A_review. http://online.liebertpub.com/doi/abs/10.1089/wound .2015.0660?journalCode=wound&.

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The Glory Of Hill Tracts: Tribal Textiles Md. Zahirul Islam ID: 2013-1-4-076

Md. Shah Miran Munshi ID: 2013-1-4-054 Department of Apparel Engineering

In the furthest part of Bangladesh, which is more famous for its scenic beauties, there lies a treasure trove of exclusive textiles. There are people of different tribes with their own different cultures and of course different taste of fashion and clothes. In a world where fashion is changing its course every day, they offer a wonderful source of inspiration. The textile products typically used by tribal community which signifies their culture, tradition, religion and their way of life is known as tribal textile.

Fig: Tribal women in traditional clothes

Origin of Tribal Textiles in Bangladesh

Fig: Tribal Fabric

The Bengali race came from the Mongoloid, Arakanese, Burmese and Assamese peoples with the aboriginal river, forest and agro-based peoples of old Vanga. The most recent entry of outsiders started in the 8th century A.D. (up to the 12th century) when Buddhist influence was at its height and the great monasteries at Paharpur and Mainamati testify to that influence. The Pala and Sena Dynasty overcame Buddhism and its followers found it safe in the hilly regions of Rangamati, Bandarban, Khagrachari etc.

They form some interesting Tribal population of the country.

Among the tribal communities, not all of them have a weaving tradition of their own but several tribes have this. Like the Chakmas produce a wide variety of handloom woven clothes. Handloom is generally run without any electric motor. It is run by a personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hands and feet combination. Handloom is used to produce these tribal textile products like khadi/hadi, phinon, salwar-kameez, gamchha, dhuti, shirts, bedcovers, floor mats, tops, skirt, sari, panjabi, lungi, frocks, shawls, fatua, table-mats and cushioncovers by their own.

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Tribal Loom “Baen” is the most well-known among the other looms. It has twelve main parts, nearly all made from bamboo and the chhaw betal nut tree. The parts are as follows: • Biyong • Bau Kati- heel section • Charka- spinning wheel • Chorki- for spinning jhoom threads • Leblebi- heel to set threads of taana • Rope- for belt • Shaugtiabach • Siyang- to keep threads uniform • Tagalog– beam • Tammobach– beam • ThurSama- shuttle of bamboo • Tarchi Cam- Waist belt • Tarchidori etc.

• BangalChabugi- small flower • Bago choke- tiger’s eye • Begum bichi- seed of eggplant • Bourgogaw- like Bangla alphabet letter • ChabaKangel- snake twist • Choriphool- design on clay water pot • Daushbeya- 10 sticks • Kanjal- snake curve • Kangara- crab • Majara- cane stool design • Padicabanggach- king of design • Satacrang- small wild marigold • Sathbeyakarangakapya- seven stick • Teen beya- three sticks used to hold threads • Thengbalasatarang- combined pattern • Tuptupi-aat-bo- lizard’s foot Stick counts refer to the number of small sticks inserted in the threads to form the motif. They go up from sixteen to thirty-eight lines in a single pattern. These form the complicated geometric designs of Chakma loom fabric.

Recent changes have occurred in the textural quality of Chakma handloom fabrics, with the entry of rayon, machine made threads and gold zari threads. Traditional jhoom handspun yarn has been replaced by Korean cotton yarn.

Now dyeing is done with chemical dyes, and the range has therefore increased. Previously red, black, dark green and white were the main colors.

Fig: Weaving on tribal loom

Tribal Designs

Every Chakma girl is taught weaving by her mother and elders. The skill is considered as a qualification of a good wife and mother which has spiritual value given by the art of weaving.

At the age of eight, a girl is encouraged to start learning a range of designs, which her mother shows her from their loom woven catalogue known as “the aalum”.

A good weaver must learn at least hundreds of patterns. Some of them are described below: • Anaj- pineapple • Aza thang- ducks feet

Fig: Tribal design

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Features of Tribal Textiles in Bangladesh

•Handspun cotton thread is used as raw materials.

• Weaving process involves greater creativity of the weaver in the basic pattern.

• Color, shape and their arrangements have different meanings.

• More often designs have geometrical structures.

• It carries tribal tradition, culture, religious values.

• It separates different tribal groups by their dresses.

Tribal textiles thus have a great international value because of their unique designs and patterns. And they uphold their identity being introduced differently as well.

In 1965, Bain Textile was established at the Tribal Officer Colony in Tabalchhari area of Rangamati

by Manjulika Chakma. She is considered as the pioneer in the handloom fabrics business in Rangamati. Manjulika Chakma also won a Bangladesh Business Awards in 2003 for her outstanding performance in popularizing homegrown Rangamati Handloom fabrics. The rising demand of Rangamati handloom fabric is very high among the tourists. Nowadays, 50 workers are working with Bain Textiles and they are earning approximately BDT 2000-3000 as per their work experience and quality.

Future of Tribal Textiles in Bangladesh

The demand of tribal textiles is growing in local and international fields. Day by day, it is also making customer value by their individualization. If it is possible to establish more tribal textile industry like Bain Textile which will create employment opportunities for the tribal population, it will contribute to the total economy of our country.

Bibliography

http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/3850/ rangamati-handloom-fabrics?page=1. http://www.cottonbangladesh.com/January2007/ TraditionalTextileOfBD1.htm. http://docslide.us/documents/dacca-muslin.html.

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Did You Know?

Md. Momtaz Islam Sobuj ID: 2013-1-2-061 Department of Fabric Engineering 1. Cotton seeds are so very durable that even if they are blown over an ocean, they can travel thousands of miles and still remain serviceable.

2. Our most eco-friendly fiber hemp is not only edible but also delicious and nutritious as well.

Which means you can eat them!

3. The highest quality cotton still comes from Egypt.

4. The earliest evidence of fabric was found in Turkey, Egypt and Israel.

5. Most zippers have the letters “YKK” imprinted on them. “YKK” stands for Yoshida Kogyo Kabushikikaisha” which is the Japanese for Yoshida Company Limited. This company was formed in 1934 by a Japanese zipper manufacturer, Tadao Yoshida, which still produces the majority of the world’s jeans zippers. Presently, YKK has got manufacturing facilities in 71 countries.

6. In 1936 Levi Strauss Company first attached a red flag with its brand name next to the back pocket of a pair of jeans. This is considered to be the first designer label ever attached to a massmanufactured garment.

7. According to astronaut Chris Hadfield, astronauts don’t bother doing laundry in space. Instead they just throw their dirty laundry out into the earth’s atmosphere, where it gets incinerated.

8. Lacoste’s little embroidered crocodile was the first-ever designer logo.

9. The first shopping mall to sell clothes was built in ancient Rome.

10. Knitting was initially a male-only occupation.

The first knitting union was founded in Paris in 1527 with all men and no women in the group.

THE REVOLUTION OF GENTLEMEN’S CLOTHING From 1900 to Present Scenario Abdullah Al Shams Tamim ID: 2013-1-4-018 Department of Apparel Engineering

We have seen from time to time when a man chooses his style of clothing he always gets inspired by history and traditions, from one time to another and no era has been gone unnoticed. Therefore, we would like to have an overview of men’s clothing back to last hundred-or-so years.

Probably it will develop a little insight in ourselves how the fashion of men’s wears transformation shifts, more importantly we can take refined decisions when it comes to buying clothing or to develop our individual style.

What is gentlemen’s formal clothing?

When a man appears, whatever his profession is, he preferably wears suit. A suit, sometimes regarded as “The prevalent uniform of capitalists”. Its simplicity spoke of a timeless elegance but with a sharp sense of style. “Suit” was chosen to humiliate hippies to be presenting a dull established man. Although this apparel has been extravagantly refused

by Silicon Valley titans like Apple’s Steve Jobs, Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg and Google’s Sergey Brin, the business suit has an exhilarating and mysterious appeal that should give wearer a tingle of pleasure every time whenever he puts one on. It is a garment born out of revolution, warfare and pestilence.

Now our history of men’s clothing begins.

1. Late 1880s: Last of the Victorian styles

Victorian style started from 1837 when Queen Victoria was crowned and in the late 1880s, it started to elude but still had men wearing top hats, frock coats and pocket watches while carrying walking sticks. This may seem like a sophisticated and confining way to dress, but it was a big step in the right direction regarding the Georgian period, that began this style, which had men wearing feathers, panty hose and high heel.

A proper Victorian gentleman was not seen outside of his home without the right style of his hat. The tap hat was compulsory for formal day and evening wear, but by the era of 1870s, a man could select varieties of Victorian styles of hats with his casual wear. Victorian style of clothing for men in 1867 comprehended an extended attire of garments and costumes, designed for specific leisure activities such as horseback riding, yachting, tennis, golf. These activities were favorable for the upper class during the Edwardian era.

Fig: Gentleman with Victorian style

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2.1900-1920s: Widening the limit of experiences

As we moved into the 1900s men’s style of clothing was primarily pragmatic, functional and uninspired from imagination. With the continuation of the long, lean and athletic silhouette of late 1890s, tall-stiff collars were introduced in this period. At the starting, men wore Sack suits. These were long, loose fitting, plain suit jackets one to three button closures having wide lapel. Modern suits are similar to these but usually more fitted and shorter in length. Sacks suits were usually 30-32 inches in length (down to mid-thigh). They were either single or double-breasted. The choice of colors were dark navy, grey, green and occasionally brown.

As the cultural changes after World War-I were significant, men's fashion in the 1920s went through as radical a transformation just as that of the women’s. The Jazz Age gave everyone an edgier freshness on life and it reflected in clothing. The war changed attitudes towards people’s lifestyle and did much to differentiate the classes, which also reflected in fashion.

Younger men adopted a style with baggy plus fours and wide-legged trousers. Suits were simpler, slimmer, unpadded over the trousers and fabrics colors were lustrous and brighter than anyone had seen in years, reflecting the inspiration of music, theatre and good times.

Fig: Styling of hollywood hotshot Leonardo Dicaprio and Toby Maguire in the movie “The Great Gatsby inspired from 1990s gentlemen’s style

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3. 1930-1940s: Inspiration from elegant style and starting of ready-to-wear

The beginning of this era has a depressed story as the normal working class men could not afford the enjoyment of wearing fashionable clothes, thus many often enjoyed by observing the choice of clothing styles of others who could afford, such as elegantly dressed star personalities like Fread Astaire, Clark Gabel, Cary Grant. It was the time men wore dress according to certain codes of conduct, could be mentioned as “the menswear rules” what we often use as references, were written in this time.

At the end of World War II, American men lost their styling according to the high standards and basic codes of menswear established in the 1930s. This happened because of the loss of formality in their workforce. As the demand of custom tailoring lowered, the price of its rose, this allowed for the mass production of menswear to take over as a usual thing in everybody’s life. This period introduced us to mass production of ready-to-wear clothing in America, which is the best mentionable feature in this era. Some of those brands, which introduced us to ready-made garments, are still selling us clothes today.

Fig: A Gentleman from 1940

4. 1950-1960s: Age of Resemblance to Rebellion

Young men returning from the military were concerned to fit well in their very own society.

Fitting in meant appearing in the Ivy League looking style, which was a superior style of menswear at that time. Particularity in style of clothing was an afterthought. The intention was to look stylish in a boxy sack suit, oxford shirt, rep tie and loafers. This era was another great stimulation for mass Ready-to-Wear manufacturers who gladly sold the same illfitting tweed jackets to many young men whose intention was to look smart as well as employable. This period also introduced to us manmade fibers (like nylon and rayon) based fabrics, but the great wearable advantages of natural fiber made clothing, this trend came to end quite soon.

Fig: A throwback to 1960s style of men’s clothing

5. 1970-1980s: Disco Fashion to Power Dress-up

Men's casual fashion began to loosen up at the end of 1960s, but when disco music was introduced in the 1970s, a new era in men's style was born. Both young and old men went to disco clubs to dance the nights away. Male dancers' flashy and colorful clothing emulated the way of women’s way of styling in clothing.

During 1980s, things got a little more condemnatory.

Bright colors with vivid designs established a new idea of individuality and business persons followed this style of power dressing with an insistence on costly clothing with ornamented accessories.

Fig: Gentlemen with Ivy League look The 1960s could be regarded as a period of unrest and rebellion way of styling, different from the established codes and conduct in men’s wear, which were practiced in the 1950s.

In this decade, the choice of clothing and styles expressed this new attitude, especially with the young generation who were more concerned with how to express themselves in individual manners rather than traditional dressing following the “rulebook”. The clothing industry capitalized this new drift and offered a wide range of styles. For the first time, grown gents started following their youth for their care-free style of clothing.

Fig: Gentlemen with disco fashion

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6. 1990-2000s: Baggy Business culture to European “slim-cut”

The 1990s brought great changes, with the loose and baggy delineation of the early '90s leading to a slimmer suit profile including oversized hoodies, distressed jeans. Business casuals generally used to enter the corporate offices in less formal wear. This ultimately caused the suit to get bigger and loosely fitting which presented people with an appearance uglier than ever before. This may be perhaps the worst dressed decade.

Menswear in the new millennium was influenced by hip-hop culture for the youth and tailoring style of European “slim fit”. As a result, the suit finally started to slim down, which is continuing, and because of the internet, it gets easier for us to learn about men’s styling and share our opinions with fellow style enthusiasts about particular styling concept. We saw the initiation of the first internet blogs on men’s wear clothing and styling in this decade.

and helping these brands in capitalizing with online resources of crowd funding like kickstarter. So now, we are able to see the upturn of the small brand, stimulated by the strength of the internet and the intention for consumers to have something exclusively limited. The best part is, middle men are being eliminated every day from the supply chain, which causes the shopping marker more customer-friendly.

Fig: European slim-cut formal wear in present time

Fig: Baggy business casual

7. 2010s to present: Evolution of online styling

Now, fashion is in the hands of people, initiating larger varieties in styling, reviews and opinions than ever before. This era is also mentioned as the universal acknowledgement of online shopping. Style enthusiasts now have access to more brands from their homes to longer distances through online shopping. By the vast use of social media, the internet is also allowing more start-up brands for marketing

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Being a fashion enthusiast does not mean that you have to purchase a new wardrobe every season, rather, you should add wellmanufactured and beautiful style of collections that properly represents the wearer. It starts with understanding about that “one style” that is best suited for our bodies, personalities and trying to represent ourselves with various trends that could make some enhancement in our personalities as well.

Bibliography

http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/clothingtypes-styles/history-mens-formal-wear. http://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/ g70/style-evolution-0908/?slide=1. http://articlesofstyle.com/56239/a-brief-historyof-mens-style/. http://www.fashion-era.com/fashion_eras. htm#1800-1837. http://fashionconceptsformen.blogspot.com/.

Potential of “CARBON FIBER”

for being the Future Material in the Domain of Technical Application Ishmam Zahin Chowdhury ID: 2013-1-2-029

Ahamed Hossain Bappy ID: 2013-1-2-035 Department of Fabric Engineering Carbon fiber, by far the most widely used technical fiber in high performance applications, is now paving its way to the previously metal dominated fields. This light weight material has incredible strength with a lot of desirable properties which make it most dominating material in the modern world. Having a specific structure makes it suitable for versatile use especially in the technical sector. Due to its versatility its popularity is increasing day by day.

“We didn’t leave the stone age because we ran out of new stones. We created new materials, and that’s what we are doing here. We are creating a future.”

-By Deborah Wince-Smith; President and CEO (Council on Competitiveness).

In order to create that future for technical textile, carbon fiber is introduced.

Carbon fiber is a fibrous material having micrographic crystal structure which is made by fibrillation of acrylic resin or from oil coal or pitch.

In the production process controlled pyrolysis, removing oxygen, nitrogen and hydrogen gives improved mechanical properties by developing crystallinity and orientation in inner structure.

Carbon fiber lacks any three dimensional order unlike graphite. In PAN based carbon fiber the inner chain structure is transformed to planer structure during stabilization and carbonization process [1].

Carbon fiber consists of thin fibers ranging from .005 to .010 mm in diameter which is even less than a human hair. The carbon atoms are bonded together in microscopic crystals that are more or less parallel to the long axis of fiber making it incredibly strong for its size. Thousands of carbon fiber are bonded together to form yarn when combined with resin.It can be modeled to high strength to weight ratio [2].

Carbon fiber has the potential to replace steel for being strong stiff and lightweight at the same time. Having one half of the weight of the aluminum with three times the strength make it versatile for application where stiffness and low weight is required simultaneously by allowing a designer virtually unlimited ability to build parts with stiffness and strength far exceeding aluminum, steel and even titanium. It raises its possibility to overthrow metal.

Carbon fiber has negative to very low (-1 to +8) coefficient of thermal expansion. This thermal stability gives carbon fiber increased manufacturing precision on other metal increase in size when heated [2].

Its high electric conductivity and good EMI shedding property brings CFRP to field of EMI shielding. It has good x-ray permeability in addition to lightness and rigidity. In the field of medical equipment parts in CFRP is highly welcomed. Depending upon the manufacturing process and the raw material carbon fiber can be made into protective clothing for firefighting.

Carbon fiber blanket is also used in welding protection [2].

Fig: Molecular Structure of carbon fiber

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Application Carbon fibers are now available in a wide range of useful form. The fibers are bundled woven shaped into thin sheets for construction purposes, supplied as cloth for molding or regular thread for filament winding.

Carbon fiber has made its mark as reinforcing materials for its use in concrete structures.

The world’s first bridge made from reinforced concrete was erected in 2005 in Oschatz.

Textile made from carbon fiber roving are particularly suitable for reinforcing concrete with a load bearing capacity of 3000 N/mm2 and approximately 1.8 g/cm3 makes it more efficient than connectional steel reinforced concrete.

Now-a-days, research has been made in Japan to build architectural structure by using CFRC for earthquake protection [3].

Next generation “carbon fiber” has capacity to reduce the passenger car weight by 50% and improve fuel efficiency by about 35% without compromising any aspect. This can save more than $500 in fuel over the life of the car at today’s gasoline prices. Due to their light weight and strength, carbon fiber is used to manufacture racing cars.

Fig: Carbon fiber in aerodynamic

Fig: Carbon fiber in automobile

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In aerospace field which demands materials of light weight and high rigidity, the aerospace antenna and satellites adopt CFRP parts.

Fig: Carbon fiber in satellite The light weight and tensile strength properties of carbon fiber make it ideal for making lightweight and durable sports products like golf shafts, skis, snowboard, hockey-stick, fishing rod and bicycles.

High dimensional stability, low coefficient of thermal expansion and low abrasion properties of carbon fiber are helpful to build missiles, aerospace antenna support structures, large telescopes, optical benches, weave guides for stable high frequency precision measurement frames. Good vibration damping helps to make audio equipment, loudspeaker, pickup and robot arm. Chemical inertness and high corrosion resistance helps in nuclear field and other process plants. Biological inertness and x-ray permeability helps in medical applications like surgery tendon and ligament repair. Carbon fiber also can be woven into a fabric suitable for using in defense application [2].

Carbon fiber is a great stuff when strength/ weight ratio is primary concern. However high tensile strength of carbon fiber is not always very convenient. It has low compression on shear strength. In almost all engineering application, it requires composite material which makes carbon fiber harder to work with. The production cost of carbon fiber is very high making it highly priced material for consumers. To get the same production using carbon fiber costs 20 times higher than using the same amount of steel.

The production process itself is not easy on the environment. Also recycling of carbon fiber is not eco-friendly and a lengthy process [4].

Research In view of high performance features, researchers worldwide are working on using carbon fiber as environment-friendly carbon fiber reinforcing materials. The project of making carbon fiber reinforced concrete is being supported by the German government to establish Germany as the world’s leading provider of carbon fiber reinforced concrete in the construction industry. The federal ministry of education and research is funding this project cost roughly EUR 45 million via funds made available within the framework of the Zwanzing, 20% partnership for innovation project. Karl Mayer is also participating in this project. The project is to focus on the production of biaxial textile structures governing reinforced concrete components. These biaxial have a grid like construction in which fiber material is arranged at an angle 0 in yarn and at an angle 90 in weft yarn. This structure is fired by the measurement of knitted stitches.

Researches from the University of Colorado Boulder have found an eco-friendly and cost effective way of recycling carbon fiber composites. According to Wei Zhang, Associate Professor of Chemistry of the Colorado Boulder, recycling the carbon fiber composites simply requires soaking the composites in an organic solution at room temperature which is really energy efficient and eco-friendly. This technology is now patent pending [5].

Oak Ridge National Laboratory (ORNL) is currently running its Department of Energy’s (DOE) initiative to develop disruptive technologies for producing low cost carbon fiber. The primary forces of ORNL’s carbon fiber research are disruptive cost reduction for industrial grade carbon fibers with modest performance penalty being acceptable. ORNL’s carbon fiber program does include a high performance element in which new performance levels are sought including cost as a secondary factor as part of ORNL’s DOE funded facility. The Carbon Fiber Technology Facility (CFTF) serves as a hub for public-private partnerships. The mission of these partnerships is to forge industry-government collaboration as to accelerate the development and deployment of lower cost carbon fiber materials [6].

Future and Commercialization The future of carbon fiber is very bright with vast potential is many different industries: fuel efficient automobiles, high performance automobiles, light weight concrete based construction and earth quake protected infrastructure, alternate energy storage and transportation, oil exploration are some of the promising sectors for carbon fiber [7].

Renowned car company BMW has begun volume production of CFRP components as early in 2003 and has been increasing its output ever since. In 2009, BMW and SGL group formed a joint venture called SGL automotive carbon fiber in order to combine their core competencies and industrialize the use of carbon fibers in the automotive sector.

MAI carbon fiber cluster management GMBH, a partner of BMW and Audi states that production costs for carbon fiber could soon be lowered by 90 percent. They have taken a $102 million research project backed by Germany’s federal government hoping to reduce carbon fiber production cost [8].

Case file Indy Car driver Martin Plowman was hit with a flying debris from a crash during the 2014 Grand Prix in Indianapolis. Luckily he was saved as his helmet was equipped with carbon fiber composite strip. He was wearing a visor shield which was made of high-tech carbon fiber composites, which protected his eyes.

He sent out his tweet with a photo of his helmet after the race.

Fig: Post on twitter by Martin Plowman

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In the present developing sector of technical textile, carbon fiber can define textile in a new way. To expand the empire of textile in the technical site is surely a great addition for world’s engineering civilization. Good engineering can work around to increase its viability and usability for making it a material of choice for the upcoming era. In the present “Earthquake issue” throughout the world, carbon fiber reinforced concrete can surely hold the candle.

References

1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_fibers.

2. Raghavendra R. Hegde, Atul Dahiya, M. G. Kamathreleasescarbon fiber onApril, 2004. http://www.engr.utk. edu/mse/Textiles/CARBON%20FIBERS.htm.

3. Japan Carbon fiber Manufacturing Association. http://www.carbonfiber.gr.jp/english/index.html& http://com positesmanufacturingmagazine.com/2016/01/carbon-fiber-composite-protects-japanese-buildingfrom-earth quakes/.

4.https://www.quora.com/What-are-the-advantages-and-disadvantages-of-using-carbon-fiber-in-place-of-fiberglass.

5. http://www.colorado.edu/news/releases/2016/02/15/cu-boulder-researchers-recycle-carbon-fiber-compositesnew-equally-strong.

6. http://blog.fibreglast.com/carbonfiber/oak-ridge/.

7. http://zoltek.com/carbonfiber/the-future-of-carbon-fiber/.

8. http://blog.caranddriver.com/weave-come-so-far-bmw-audi-and-german-consortium-developing-carbon-fiberthats-90-percent-cheaper/.

We sincerely acknowledge and highly appreciate the valuable contribution of

“Colour Point Ltd.”

to this year’s publication by BUTEX Science Club.

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Jute Composite:

Exploring a New Horizon with the Gold of Bengal Gold of Bengal is an association under the French 1901 law whose mission is the research, development and promotion of technical solutions that answer general interest issues while valuing the local expertise and environment. We had the wonderful opportunity to talk with Guillemette De Chammard and Sylvain Roussel from the team. The hour long discussion was proved to be enlightening with topics ranging from history to modern day composite formation. We are glad to share this conversation with our thoughtful readers.

The session was conducted by Rahat Alam.

When did you start working on jute?

We started on 2013.

Have you heard about Bangladesh University of Textiles before?

Just by name.

You have made sailboats from jute composite.

Can you tell us about them?

The first one is called Tara-Tari. It wasn’t 100% jute. We used 60% fiberglass and 40% jute. The second one is called Gold of Bengal and that’s fully made from jute.

How do you source jute?

We developed our own jute fabric which is called Pàt. Corentin de Chatelperron and some other engineers did some research on it and they developed a way to make it.

Then they did some technology transfer with Bangladeshi investors called CPHD composite fibers. Now CPHD composite fibers are the ones that are producing this specific jute fabric we call the Pàt.

How do you make your prototypes?

We use the Infusion molding process for prototyping. Our challenge is to develop a process to adapt with the local conditions as it’s hard to buy resins and other chemicals in Bangladesh.

Do you have a plan to commercialize your

(From left) Guillemette, Miran, Sylvain and Rahat products?

We are researchers and so we don’t sell products.

Our intention is not to be on the market or to be a huge company. We’re just carrying out the research and making it open source. So that people become interested in jute products.

Are people in France interested about jute?

Yeah, they are. For instance, you know the JEC composite is a big show that takes place every year in Paris, in France. We went there in March.

One month ago I was there in France and I was talking to all the companies; not only from France but also from all over Europe. We were trying to make them interested in buying jute.

Not from us because we’re just doing research.

We were telling them about what is possible and about the things being done in Bangladesh.

All in all, we’re trying to make them interested about jute.

So when we went to the companies what they asked us what fabric was there. We showed

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them some fabric. One that CPHD produces and another one from other jute mills and we said all this fabric is from Bangladesh and we think it could be useful in the composite industry.

Now we use only glass fiber, sometimes flax and carbon. But this is also a different fabric and we gave them some samples so they can try and then if they’re interested, they will tell us, come back to us and then we can get them acquainted with the jute mills. Not as directly because we’re not selling as I’ve said before.

Do you have any interest to share this idea with any industry from Bangladesh?

Yeah, we’re trying to. We welcome everyone who are interested about the process. We shall be happy to share the process of making the composites. It’s our objective actually, to share the idea. The more people are interested, the best is for us. We just do research, so we don’t have any proper commercial interest. So if you’re interested, you’re welcome. You can come in Atrochi to see the composite lab to see how it is done.

We published some tutorial on our website and Facebook about how to make some surf fins made of jute. So we made a video and are still doing the same to make a longboard. So it’s just like some nice thing. So it’s for the new generation, to appeal them to do it because one of our goals is to show that jute does have an innovative potential. It’s not the fabric that old grandma used or whatever (smiling). It has its place in the market.

It’s important that you understand that you should stop copying and research with your local natural resources. You can use your own product to make good things and you don’t need to import stuffs from other countries. Amazing stuff can be done with local resources.

What problems do you face here?

We do have a lack of equipment in Atrochi. We

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have another team in France working on another project called the Low-tech Lab. They’re hosted by a foundation and the foundation is helping us on all the tests as we need to test the fabric because we want to characterize it. We don’t have the equipment here and we always have to go back or send somebody or send the samples and ask somebody to test it.

What other applications do you think jute have?

We have an idea actually of using it as a substitute for the metal roof traditionally known as “Tin” in Bangladesh. Fiberglass is also being used in this aspect but jute is the better option because of the environmental impact.

Jute was one of the most important export items of Bangladesh at a time.

Do you think that it can regain its former glory with these new applications?

We hope so. We want to show the world that you do have amazing natural resources here in Bangladesh. Millions of people are earning their livings; thanks to jute. Bangladesh is still the second largest producer of it. You should be proud of it.

The farmers have centuries of experience of producing it. We usually think if it’s old, then it’s bad. Now-a-days sustainability is really important and we realize that using the old experience can actually be better, cheaper and more environment friendly. That’s the idea of our association.

Of all the fibers currently available why are you working with jute?

Because it’s cheaper.

What’s your future plan?

Keep working on new products, working with the university students here and promoting jute throughout the world.

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Trip to Turkey : A comprehending odyssey Mohammad Shahidul Kader PhD student, Auburn University, Alabama, USA Lecturer, Apparel Manufacturing (Study Leave) National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research (NITER)

The tremendous expansion of the textile sector of Bangladesh is still continuing even after the alarming period of post MFA era. Similar to the other textile developing countries, Bangladesh is also passing the life cycle phenomena of industrial development. Considering the development pattern of our textile sector, several issues resurfaced in my mind while visiting Turkey- the old school of textiles. The journey begins with the wish to know about Turkish textile industry; modern and sophisticated technology that make the production and marketing of highly value-added and quality products possible. It also covers the exploration of the Byzantine architecture, big markets, mosques, musuem and so on. Merely, this article ends with the substantial recommendation rather a saga of the journey.

Turkey can be illustrated as the name of a nation or civilization that holds a magnanimous distinction in the earth through its structure, sea and the mountain. From the palioethilic era Turkey act as the bridge between the biggest land area: Asia and Europe. Geographically, Turkey is situated in the eastern part of the Europe. Though, Ankara is the capital city, many finds the taste of Turkish history and sign of prosperity in Istanbul. Istanbul is the oldest and biggest city of Turkey representing the Byzantine architecture; big markets, mosques, musuem are the lucrative place to watch for the beauty lovers. The Republic of Tureky has more than 30 languages while most of the people are Muslims. Agriculture is the main streamline of the economy and 34% of people live on this.

Around seventy percent of total population are city dwellers. Textile industry is one of the source of income for world’s 17th largest economy.

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On July, 2015, I came to know from Dewan Murshed Ahmed sir (who is presently a lecturer in BUTEX) that UNIDO in cooperation with the Government of Turkey is currently organizing an International workshop on “Technical Textiles/Nonwoven Industry” to be held in Turkey during the period from 08-19 September, 2015. David Y. Lee, Industrial Development Officer, UNIDO sent me a mail about the workshop. After a few selection processes, I was selected for the workshop. TUBITAK BUTAL of Bursa in cooperation with Turkish Ministry of Science, Industry and Technology (MoSIT) and Turkish Cooperation and Coordination Agency (TIKA) is focusing on the upgradation of the knowledge and skills of the participants in the field of technical textiles/nonwoven industry.

Journey Begins It was 7 September, 2015 while I reached the Istanbul Atatürk Airport. On the first day of my residing in Istanbul, found people from several countries to attend the workshop. The workshop was attended by the citizens from twelve (12) counties: Bangladesh, Bosnia Herzegovina, Kazakhstan, Kenya, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova, Nigeria, Senegal, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Tunisia, Vietnam and Turkey also. The workshop had two phases; the first phase started in Istanbul on 08 September about 450 kilometers away from Ankara in Turkey and then the second phase started on 15 September in Bursa; the significant industrial city. The participants and training team arrived on 07 September, 2015 in Istanbul in order to meet for fine-tuning of the workshop. The workshop ended with closing ceremony on 19 September.

high-performance applications like advertising, agriculture, automobile, aviation, civil engineering, chemical, electrical, industries, leather, medical, environmental protection, transportation etc. for their performance or functional characteristics rather than for their aesthetics.

Fig: The Activities in Workshop Objectives of this Workshop • To get the latest scenario of technical textiles/ nonwoven industry through various program segments.

• To be familiar with the basic quality control and laboratory testing equipments and procedures besides the latest production technologies.

• To capture the opportunity gap in the nonwoven industry in own countries in order to inaugurate remarkable advancement of local nonwoven industries.

• To enrich the perception about latest research trends, market opportunities, quality requirements in value added textile industry by utilizing the scope to visit “Istanbul Textile Congress 2015” sessions at Istanbul Technical University.

• To enhance the cooperation among various participating countries for the development and upgradation of textile picture and also to support the relevant ongoing UNIDO projects in these countries wherever possible.

Introduction of Technical Textile Technical textile is knowledge based and continuous improvement technology-based sector. The role of technical textile is becoming eminent while the role of conventional textiles is decreasing. Now a country’s performance in textile sector is being determined by its innovation, production, applications and exports of technical textiles. Technical textiles are used by industries of non-textile character in high-tech and

Technical Textile Consumption 22% 78%

Technical Textiles Other Textiles

Source: Dr. Mevlüt TAŞCAN, Zirve University, Gaziantep, Turkey Latest Scenario of Turkey Turkish textile and apparel industry has grown rapidly and shifted from low value added commodities to high value added manufacturing goods. As a result of these developments, Turkey has a noteworthy share in world textile and apparel trade.

Today, many sophisticated, functional, high-tech and high performance textiles are produced in Turkey including waterproof, windproof, breathable, flame retardant, anti-bacterial fabrics and garments, tire cord fabrics, military and protective wear. The production capacity in Turkey for nonwovens is over 110,000 metric tons per year. Istanbul, Bursa, Gaziantep, Kocaeli and Tekirdağ are the major cities in the production of technical textiles and nonwovens.

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Technical Textiles; Bangladesh Landscape Bangladesh began its journey of textiles and clothing from early 80s of the last century; has flourished and maintained its maturity by securing substantial position globally with 4% market share. But insincerity in technology adoption, value addition, market diversification throw challenge to $50 billion target by 2021.

Globally, the growth rate of technical textiles is more than 4% which is much higher than conventional textiles. Bangladesh is showing satisfactory performance in conventional textile manufacturing and clothing export. In near future, the low-value-added product manufacturers will struggle in a truly competitive global market.

Though the export economy relies mostly on textile and clothing sector, this country lags behind in technical textile products. Many reasons can be identified which are directly contributing towards back thrust of technical textiles in Bangladesh. Neither the government nor the textile industry has made any successful efforts towards technical textiles. Our academia’s lack of interest to conduct research and innovation for technical textile, lack of consumer awareness and absence of technology are some of the facts that have kept us away from technical textiles’ production, uses and innovation.

Use of nonwoven fabric in Bangladesh was not so familiar in the earlier days of its invention.

But today, nonwoven fabric is widely used in Bangladesh in different sectors. Unfortunately, we have only few manufacturers of nonwoven fabric in our country. For the use of our big market maximum amount of nonwoven is imported from different countries. According to Bangladesh Bank and EPB (Export Promotion Bureau), the amount of imported nonwoven fabric was 0.6% of the total amount of import goods in the year 2012-13 as USD 188.98 million. In Bangladesh there is a large possibility to grow with nonwoven fabric industry as its usage is increasing day by day. Moreover, Bangladesh has large opportunity to capture this huge world market of nonwoven fabric.

Recommendations for Future Growth of Technical Textiles Though the traditional textile industry is considered as the important sector in Bangladesh, technical

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textile industry becomes one of the main test-beds regarding new business strategies. The following role playing entities may change the scenario: Government: The government of Bangladesh should give special care on technical textile while reviewing and amendment of textile and clothing policies. In order to do so, they need to establish research and development (R&D) centers. But at first the government should come forward to create awareness about the economic value of technical textiles with the help of academia.

Academia: The upgradation of syllabus (B.Sc. and M.Sc. in Textile Engineering) should be accompanied by the introduction of technical textile specific course in curriculum. Seminars and workshops on technical textile should be conducted on a regular basis where producers, researchers, consumers, designers and distributors of technical textiles can contribute significantly. Some renowned public universities are offering PhD in textile related areas. Universities should encourage the PhD students to take technical textiles as their subjects of interest with regard of local issues.

Industries: The industries with government’s support should synergize effort to find out opportunities of production, uses and application fields. It is true that Bangladesh naturally lags behind in raw materials for technical textiles. But available bast fiber, mainly jute fibers and some man-made fibers along with imported raw materials, the country could start to take a step ahead in technical textile production to initially serve the country’s need in technical textiles. This initiative will create huge job opportunities, generate export earning and improve technological expertise of our human resources.

BUTEX: BUTEX should try to identify and convert the scientific findings from the researches in BUTEX and other universities, departments, institutes and research centers, potential for the development of the technical textile sector. The participants will be appointed to design and develop BUTEX as a center of technological excellence from where the industry can seek technological support and research collaborations. This venture will also develop BUTEX as a hub of technical textile research and innovation and ensure proper dissemination and implementation of technological solutions in the textile industry.

BUTEX will surely put the achievements of the training

into practice immediately in solving the specific problems of enterprises and organizations in technical textile arena.

Specific Steps Towards Implementation • To develop a technological innovation chain among the academia and textile industries of Bangladesh, in order to stimulate continuous development and ensure progress towards an effective innovation ecosystem in technical textile industry.

• To promote diversified market concept of technical textile among the entire textile community of Bangladesh by arranging seminar, workshop, symposium etc.

• To influence to launch exclusive undergraduate and graduate thesis programs at real-time experience from the technical textile arena.

• To disseminate the knowledge gathered from this program by conducting ToT (Training of Trainers) program and develop a capable pool of

faculties to diverge the functions of training.

• To focus on the cost effective and often superior alternative solutions for an increasingly wide variety of applications on manufacturing arena like nonwoven.

Conclusion Technical textiles are used for their functional characteristics rather than for their aesthetics.

Turkish textile industry uses modern and sophisticated technology which makes the production and marketing of highly value added, quality products possible. As the world’s economy is growing along with consumers’ awareness, the demand for technical textiles is coming out as a big opportunity for the developing countries.

Hopefully, this venture will also develop technical textile research and innovation chain through proper dissemination and implementation of technological skills and knowledge gathered.

BUTEX Apparel Club:

Apparel Club is formed by the students of Department of Apparel Engineering.

They often arrange various motivational as well as career based seminars.

Badhan: A voluntary blood donating organization. Blood grouping,

blood donating is among their primary activities. Not only that, they are also spontaneously involved with various social and cultural activities as well.

Toru: Another voluntary organization involved with various social activities such as winter clothes distribution, aiding the needy people and so on.

Ekattor:

Ekattor is the leading cultural club in BUTEX. They aim at nourishing and flourishing the latent talents of the students by providing them with a platform to express them through various cultural as well as co-curricular activities.

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Tex Fiction

FINUX Arafat Munna ID: 2013-1-1-019 Department of Yarn Engineering

m

Caravan of around ten thousand people is running breathlessly to ascend the sloping valley.

Many of them have become exhausted of the impassable roads and of climbing bluffs. Some dying people had to be left on the way. Nature has compelled them to be cruel. They will have to reach Sterdam city very soon.

The large convoy is being guided by Mishima, a boy with curl-blonde hair. No one has ever imagined that this boy growing inside the four walls of the orphanage, one day will become the apple of everyone’s eyes. Sometimes people of this town inhales with peace only because of Mishima.

m The earth was being inundated with sound

pollution, noise pollution and electric effluent.

In that circumstance, scientists gave a sudden hint about the destructive extinction of the earth.

Deadly carbon-mono-oxide emission had been accelerating the decay of the earth in the past years. Even the implementation of the artificial ozone layer could not save the stratosphere.

Meanwhile, poisonous Finux storm started. Heat of the sun and odor of electric effluent spread the storm all over the earth. Existence of all of the green lives on the plant diminished due to Finux gas and emission of carbon. People were taken to artificial oxygen chamber. Only in 2 days around 10 million people of the third world countries died. Famine started touching the developed economy of European countries. Even setting up of poisonous gas suction chamber along with ultramodern verbal machine could not save them.

m

At this endangered moment of mankind, came forward Bangladeshi scientist Hossain who was staying in Sterdam. He set up genetic

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code changing module in his own laboratory; “ManTree” system invented by him that would lessen dependency on trees. It would make human self-dependent to produce green pigment inside human body by implanting chlorophyll system in them. By using sunlight and water, man would be able to nourish himself on his own.

Scientist Hossain and his volunteer team started working harder and faster for making ManTree.

People from all over the earth crowded in Sterdam, Purpose was to become ManTree. Sterdam was then free from poisonous Finux gas. Observing system of the air was very strong there. Not a single molecule of air from outside of the city could enter in it.

m

Mishima had read about famous scientist Hossain of Sterdam city many times in the newspaper. Sitting at the broken corner of the orphanage boundary, he had read a lot of books by scientist Hossain.

Life was beautiful there in Mehek, surrounded by mountains. All on a sudden it was cursed by Finux gas. As Mishima was a habitant of Mehek, his heart wailed seeing the gathering of dead bodies on the roads and in the hospitals. Rich people took possession of all the oxygen chambers available in the hospitals and the rest were dying.

Mishima wanted to settle in the neighboring city with his orphanage mates. Other people also joined them with bag and baggage. In spite of being a neighboring city, Sterdam was about 300 kilometers away from Mehek. The whole pathway was filled with mountains and jungles.

Many of them had heard about ManTree that it was helpful to save lives from Finux gas, and so their enthusiasm was more intense than the others. Mishima was taking care of everyone as much as he could do.

m Sterdam city had been crowded with five times

people than its normal population. Nobody was allowed to enter the city anymore. People coming from various cities had to keep themselves outside the city because of the no entry zone enforced by robotics law enforcing agencies.

Scientist Hossain was very anxiously researching in his laboratory. He noticed that Finux was being spread artificially rather than spreading in natural way. The matter of surprise was, only the powerful states had not been affected by it. His friend, scientist Herald, also gave him the same message. ManTree had given people release from some problems but if Finux gas could not be neutralized, even ManTree would not subsist for long. For the first time in life, scientist Hossain found himself to be completely helpless. Very tactfully Finux was being spread in the atmosphere injecting it through the earth surface. Soon Sterdam might get attacked by Finux if was not prevented immediately.

Scientist Hossain contacted with his Textile Engineer friend, Mahmud, through radar networking. Fluffy near circular face of Mahmud appeared on the holographic screen. Although Mahmud is a Harvard PhD holder, scientist Hossain had confusion about his merit. After all, they were college friends! But scientist Hossain considered Mahmud to be the perfect expertise in fiber properties form. Right the moment when he uttered the word Finux, radar connection went off! He noticed that the same thing had happened each time he tried to discuss about Finux with other scientists online. Now Scientist Hossain became anxious.

m Mishima and the other habitants of his town

did not get permission for entering the Sterdam city. Standing quietly with two stones in hand, Mishima was continuously thinking about the magical mightiness of the stones. “Whenever they are brought close to the nostril of any affected person, chances of his survival intensifies! If anything could be done with these stones!!” thought Mishima.

Mishima immediately decided that, by hook or by crook, he would meet scientist Hossain.

It was then dark midnight. Pin drop silence covered the entire place. The only light that flashed was from the laboratory of scientist Hossain. Mishima followed the flash and entered into the laboratory

hiding from the eyes of the guards.

“Who are you and why are you here at this time!” asked scientist Hossain.

“Sir, I’m Mishima, an inhabitant of the town Mehek. My townsmen are in danger, Sir! They did not get the permission to enter this city.”

Blubbered Mishima.

“Sterdam has already become exorbitant with people. If new people are allowed to enter, even this city will not last anymore.” murmured the scientist but Mishima stopped the scientist in the middle and said, “I’ve two strange stones which alleviate the effect of Finux!”

Scientist Hossain took the stones from Mishima’s hand with absolute surprise put one of them under the electro-spectrophotometer and the result he found made him speechless! The stone was emitting rays which were able to decompose Finux gas into simple molecule. After surveying more, he learnt that the stones contained an atom named Toofoon, which makes mineral fiber in the form of stone.

The stones were handed over to The Laboratory of Meditech. During research, mineral fibers were synthesized from the stones. After that, several thousands of stones were collected from the boggy lands of the mountainous valley and a bountiful number of vestures were weaved.

Finux started to invade the Sterdam city rapidly.

The verbal system went out of order. Vestures made of Toofoon were distributed to each and every corner of the whole city. Even the outsiders were provided with Tofoon vestures.

Despite being extremely poisonous and lethal in nature, swiftly the Finux became inert. Common people were flooded with gaiety and happiness.

Their heart became filled with gratitude for scientist Hossain and Mishima.

Toofoon vestures were then supplied to the rest of the neighboring cities which were affected by Finux. Gradually the catastrophic impact of Finux alleviated. In consequence to this, the earthwrecking conspiracy of the anonymous intriguers was ousted. One mineral fiber saved the planet earth.

Mishima lives in a tiny cottage at the top of the mountain. His days keep passing by thinking about the nights of full-moon. Mishima believes that this world one day will become much more beautiful.

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Demand of Time to Launch New Department (Dyes and Chemical Engineering) in BUTEX Dr. Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir Assistant Professor, Department of Wet Process Engineering, BUTEX We cannot imagine the world without color.

Mankind has been fascinated by color for several thousands of years. In ancient times, man used color to decorate both himself and his surroundings. Even today, thousands of years later, man still uses color for these purposes.

An Egyptian blue pigment was used from 1000 BC. Textile materials were colored exclusively with the use of natural dyes until the mid 19th century. Natural dyes have little affinity for textile materials; they were usually applied together with compound known as mordant, which are effectively fixing agents.

Sir William Henry Perkin did the most significant breakthrough. In 1856, his objective was to prepare synthetic quinine (Drug of Malaria) from the oxidation of ally toluidine; at the end of reaction

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it was unsuccessful however he extracted low yield of purple dye. The dye was launched on the market in 1857. During the time of Perkin’s discovery of Mauvine, chemists had very little understanding the principles of organic chemistry.

For many years, the structure of Mauvine was reported erroneously. Several years discovery of Mauvine chemistry intensified by France, Britain and Germany. Chemists concentrated on aniline as the starting material adopting a largely empirical approach to its conversion into colored compounds. In fact the term “aniline dye” was for many decades synonymous with “synthetic dyes”. The most significant discovery in color chemistry in the past Mauvine period was due to the work of Peter Griess, which provided the foundation for the development of the chemistry of azo dyes and pigments. Generally, people

The increasing importance of dye manufacturing in developing countries, such as China, move manufacturing plants to the East together with the building of new facilities in the East, must have an obvious impact on the western dyemaking industry. In the early 1990s, there were six major European dye manufacturers with four in Japan and one in the USA. Ten years later, there were four in Europe, two in Japan and none in the USA. There have been large geographical relocations to Asia. Between 1993 and 2000, joint ventures in China and South Korea established six major new dye production units. Some dyes manufacturing industry is also situated in India.

Huge amount of dye import costs we are bearing for dyeing industry. Bangladesh is also a good choice for setting up the dye manufacturing

industry. For improving the technological research and development, it is essential to launch a new department of dyes and chemical engineering.

Growing awareness of the impact that industrial pollution was having on the environment became crucial for the dyeing industry in the closing decades of the twentieth century, because the lack of knowledge of dyers. Dyers cannot select the proper dyestuff according to the chemical structure. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why the pollution load of effluent treatment plant increased and re-dyeing occurs in the regular interval.

Dyes and chemical engineering department is the demand of time, which can enhance the strategic research and development for manufacturing of dyes and pigments. In case of textile dyestuffs, we import almost 95% dyes and most of these are from China, India, Thailand, Taiwan, Korea, Sri lanka, USA, Germany, Italy, Spain, Singapore, Switzerland, and Turkey. The dye consumption rates are increasing every year.

1200 Dye Consumption Rate 1000

800

Kilo Tons

think dyestuff only used in coloration for textiles.

However, in recent decades dyestuff are also used for high functional applications. Electronic applications in which dyes and pigments play an important functional role include liquid crystal displays, micro color filters, lasers, solar energy conversion, electronic displays and optical data storage. The most significant recent medical development, which involves the use of dyes, is photodynamic therapy (PDT). PDT is a treatment for cancer that uses a combination of laser light, a photosensitizing compound (the dye) and molecular oxygen. In this treatment, the photosensitizer is given intravenously to the patient and some time is allowed so that it equilibrates within the body. During this time the photosensitizer penetrates into the tumor cells. Irradiation of the cells with laser light may then initiate their destruction thus providing a potential means for destroying the tumor. Dyes in the form of biological stains are of course used in hospitals every day. The rapid identification of bacterial species in pathology and medical microbiology units still relies on gram stain differentiation, while several non-toxic blue dyes are used routinely in surgery to trace the local extent of malignant disease. Dyestuff also uses everyday experience such as the coloration of pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticlas and foodstuffs.

Ink-jet printing is now used in a huge variety of print markets, imaging, fine art, wallpaper, ceramic, tiles, packaging, proofing and photo fading etc. For ink-jet printing it is essential to use dyes and pigments.

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Fig: Presentation of estimated consumption of dyestuffs Under the above circumstance of annual dye consumption, we can draw the inference that, if this massive amount of dyestuff which we consume every year can be produced locally, then this would surely prove to be beneficial for our economy.

The Vision 2021 plan for Bangladesh, textile industry plays a vital role for increasing the growth of economy; so dye-manufacturing industry set up is essential. For generation of new jobs and investment, we need expertise graduates for dye manufacturing industry. Obviously, it will be a great attempt to launch dyes and chemical engineering department in BUTEX.

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Biography of Dr. Tarannum Afrin: the Woman behind a Groundbreaking Discovery in Textile Sector Afsana Mobin ID: 2013-1-2-080 Department of Fabric Engineering We all have got dreams; but not all of us can maintain the passion to chase our dreams until we fulfill them. We all have got certain limitations; but not all of us can keep up the morale to battle those limitations and convert them into strength as well. People like Dr. Tarannum Afrin are a source of encouragement for the hundreds and thousands that dare dream and aspire to bring those dreams into accomplishment. Now the question is- Who is this Tarannum Afrin? Many of us already know the answer to it. She is the one who has spellbound Australia with her discovery in processing bamboo fiber from bamboo plant.

She has completed her B.Sc. from the College of Textile Technology (presently known as BUTEX) and has completed PhD in Materials Engineering from Deakin University, Melbourne, Australia; having achieved highly prestigious Alfred Deakin Medal for her outstanding PhD thesis in 2013.

KINKLE decided to give her a tribute for her tremendous discovery in the field of Textiles through publishing a biography on her.

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Birth and Childhood Tarannum Afrin, daughter of Muhammad Rafiqul Islam and Naghma-E-Sahara, was born in Barisal (Sadar Hospital). Her father was a banker in profession and her mother was a teacher.

However, her mother could not continue with her profession later for she had to take care of two kids; Tarannum herself and her younger sister, Tanzina Afreen and other matters of their joint family as well. As a child, Tarannum was born with certain complications. Consequently, she often used to remain severely sick. Most of her childhood, she had spent amidst immense love and care of her maternal grandparents. She was the apple of her grandparentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; eyes. They used to leave no stone unturned to ease the sufferings of their eldest granddaughter each time she fell sick. Her grandfather, Kazi Nurul Haque, was a former Naval Officer, a freedom fighter and a philanthropist. He was like a friend and a mentor to Tarannum through and through. From The Holy Quran to Mathematics, Tarannum had learnt a lot from her grandfather. Even sometimes, when

they used to sit together and stare at the stars, he used to talk Physics with her. He is the one who got her closer to the nature, to her country and to humanity. It was her grandfather who taught her to grow boundless love for her country and the countrymen. Tarannum has been idealizing her grandfather all her life.

Education and Extracurricular Activities Tarannum completed SSC from Tejgaon Government Girls’ High School and HSC from BAF Shaheen College with outstanding result.

After obtaining her B.Sc. degree from the College of Textile Technology, she went to United Kingdom to do her M.Sc. in Manchester Metropolitan University under highly competitive and prestigious commonwealth scholarship.

Tarannum has completed her PhD in 2003 from Deakin University under Australian Postgraduate Award (APA) scheme. The topic of her research was to explore eco-friendly method of processing bamboo fiber from bamboo plants. She had also investigated the route of antibacterial and UV-shielding properties of bamboo.

As a kid, Tarannum was friendly by nature, easy going and got a good sense of humor. During her student life, she was very helpful to other students. She used to share her own notes with them and used to help them in understanding certain topics as well. Therefore, she got immense popularity amidst her classmates. Tarannum was the class monitor all through her school-college life. She took part in the voluntary activities such as Girls’ Guide and Interact Club (sister concern of Rotary Club). She used to take part in cultural activities and got a number of national awards in singing, debate and recitation during that period such as, “Shishu Academy”, “Jatiyo Shikkha Soptaho”, “Bangla Academy” and so on. She was a regular participant of BTV’s children shows as a child performer. She was a hard working student and her academic results clearly reflected that.

Personality and Lifestyle Like Jerry of “A Mother in Mannville”, integrity is the word that represents Tarannum’s personality.

She loves to work hard and do things precisely.

She is a perfectionist and a perfect example of the sun sign “Virgo”. She loves to wear fashionable dresses which are mostly designed by herself but saree is her most favourite attire.

Channel’s “Chance” is her favorite perfume. She

believes in active lifestyle and loves spending a certain time of the day in gym at least 5 days a week. Tarannum is also a good cook. Her Biryani, pudding, kebab and “shutki” are very famous among her Melbournian friends. Tarannum believes in positivity. Even during very critical situations, she remains composed. Tarannum believes, life is a one way ticket so live every single second and color it your way. She is highly punctual and always loves to be on time.

Tarannum reads the Holy Quran regularly. She believes that reading “Sura Yaseen” every day is her secret to the success that Allah Sub’hanahu WaTa’ala has given her. She starts her office pretty early; i.e. at 7:30 am. At present, she is heading the technical team of an Australian prominent textile manufacturer, Charles Parsons.

This is a very demanding role which keeps her extremely busy. No matter how busy she is, Tarannum never forgets to crack jokes and smile.

Tarannum leaves in a serene suburb of Melbourne where she is lucky enough to have a park in front of her house. During weekends, she spends hours to see the natural beauties while having breakfast. This also gives her new tunes for the songs she sings. Tarannum started to compose music herself off late. She is the band leader of a Melbourne based music band named “Shikor”.

Most of the Saturdays, she spends time with the band members practicing recitation or music.

She takes part in voluntary activities of the charity foundations regularly. Tarannum has recently joined Australian Labor Party and would like to actively take part in positive politics to ensure a better place for all. In particular, she would like to do campaign for greater funding for research.

Woman with Versatility Tarannum is, indeed, a woman of versatile talents. She is a material scientist by profession and a musician by passion. She has been taught singing by her parents who were trained classical musicians. Semi-classical and mellow-rock are her comfortable genres in singing. She idealizes her sister, Dr. Tanzina Afreen, in music. Tarannum and Tanzina practiced music together and they released a music album in 2007. Tarannum is also a dexterous debater. Her mother always encouraged her to be as versatile as the seven colors of a rainbow since Tarannum’s nick name is “Barna”. And, as we can see, Tarannum succeeded in becoming one. From her life so

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far, we have seen the engineer Tarannum, the musician Tarannum, the debater Tarannum, the news-presenter or anchor Tarannum, the teacher Tarannum, the researcher Tarannum and the technologist Tarannum.

Conjugal Life Tarannum has been happily married to Mr. Kamrul Ahsan Chowdhury who is a Professional Accountant and a former cricketer. They both love to spend time watching cricket and listening to music. Tarannum got married to Kamrul just after her graduation. Kamrul had supported Tarannum immensely during her masters in UK and PhD in Australia.

Bamboo Clothing and Tarannum’s Discovery Bamboo is a multi-functional, novel green material. It is considered as one of the fastest growing plants in the world. It needs little water and no pesticide to grow. It was assumed that bamboo exhibits UV-blocking, anti-bacterial and instant moisture evaporation properties.

However, those were all the information coming from the commercial bamboo viscose clothing manufacturers with no scientific evidence.

Tarannum and her research team, however, found out that the traditional viscose production method of manufacturing bamboo fiber is not at all ecofriendly. The method involves the use of carbon disulphide which is highly toxic and very harmful for the workers’ physical and mental health. They also found out that the UV-blocking property and the anti-bacterial property of commercial bamboo viscose fabric is missing. Hence Tarannum discovered an alternative way of processing bamboo plant into fibers with the aid of bio enzymes and environmentally benign chemicals, less water and less energy. This resulted in a natural bamboo fiber which is 100% eco-friendly and retains all the unique properties of bamboo.

For example, in the UV-Vis spectroscopy, it was found that Tarannum’s processed bamboo fibers were upto 60% better UV-blocker than cotton.

Moreover, these fibers can completely kill the strong bacteria like S. Aureus and E. coli.

Australia is a country, where every year, more than 1,200 hundred people die of skin cancer and around 11,000 people are diagnosed with it. There is a considerable scarcity of water out there as well. Therefore, growing cotton is

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troublesome. Tarannum through her research had outlined that bamboo can be a good replacement of cotton and also can add values such as UV protection and anti-bacterial properties. Hence Australia has gladly embraced this discovery of Tarannum and has considered it to be a sign of breakthrough revolution.

She was interviewed by a number of Australian prominent newspapers and radio channels. Most importantly, her research was featured on ABC TV’s prime time science show “Catalyst” which is rarely seen in case of early career researchers. We, the Bangladeshis, are also proud of Tarannum for earning us recognition among the international communities through her discovery.

Tarannum, the Warrior Tarannum has been a warrior in a sense through and through. As a child, she often used to remain physically unwell. Tarannum got a rare disease called “photo phobia” and had an attack during her third year final exams. People cannot see under light when this attack happens. Although she had to give her exams in a dark room, she scored top result by the blessings of Almighty Allah.

Tarannum’s Dreams Tarannum always has put Bangladesh first wherever she was or is. She dreams to see that all the Bangladeshi children are getting the light of education.

She wants to see the Bangladesh where there would be no violence against children and women. She also has got a dream to set up a world class medical research centre in Bangladesh. As a Die Hard cricket fan, she dreams to see Bangladesh winning the world cup. She would like to present some soothing music to the audience and at present working on her next music and poetry albums. Moreover, she would like to engage herself more in the Australian politics and dreams to be a great leader one day.

“The future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their dreams”- Eleanor Roosevelt. Tarannum is a living example of the quote mentioned here. Despite having certain limitations, Tarannum did not sit back idle in despair. Instead, she believed in the beauty of her dreams, worked her sweat out to make those dreams come true and is still working hard to reach her desired goal. We hope that the life-story of Dr. Tarannum Afrin is going to encourage the people having dreams that seem to be too difficult to be fulfilled to them. So, all the best wishes to all the dreamers out there. Happy dreaming!

Frequently Asked Questions In day to day life, several questions keep hovering in the minds of the Textile Engineers. These questions usually emerge from their work-life experiences. Sometimes it happens that, many of the questions remain unanswered for they can’t manage a suitable source from where they can get convincing explanations to their questions. Hence, KINKLE decided to come up with this new segment. Here, we would be collecting questions from the Textile Engineers, get them answered by appropriate personnel and publish them in this yearly magazine. We would also be leaving some questions to our readers out there. Interested Textile Engineers can mail your answers to our science club’s mail address (scienceclub.butex@gmail.com) so that you can share your knowledge with the rest of us. You can also mail your questions to us and we promise to put in our best effort to get them answered.

As goes the saying, “All for one and one for all”, we, the students of BUTEX would love to keep this saying in practice. So, here we are with our very first attempt of publishing the answers to some of the questions that we’ve collected from our seniors working in the production sector. We cordially thank our respectable senior from 33rd batch, Engr. Md. Mahbubur Rahman; Scientific Officer, Fiber Chemistry (Department of Chemistry, BJRI) & Technical Consultant, Industrial Problems (Centre for Sustainable Solution) for being kind enough to cooperate with us. We mailed him the questions that we got to collect this year and he, somehow, managed time out of his busy schedule to explain their answers.

Question 1: In heavy GSM fabrics like Terry fleece, Rib, Interlock, why do we increase the reel speed?

Answer: With the same weight, the heavy GSM fabrics like Terry fleece, Rib, Interlock, the fabric’s chain length is less than the light GSM single jersey fabrics. So heavy GSM fabrics require less time to move one complete fabric chain; i.e. cycle time will be less. Therefore, reel speed will be increased.

Another reason is related with crease mark problem. Heavy GSM fabrics tend to form more crease mark than the ones with low GSM. Crease mark formation is related with frequent folding-unfolding, water pressure on fabric folds etc. Water pressure on fabric folds is experienced more in heavy GSM fabrics than that experienced by light GSM fabrics. Hence, folding-unfolding action needs to be more in heavy GSM fabrics. Therefore reel speed is enhanced.

Question 2: I used salt before dye dosing; but now I’m using after dye dosing in light shade (shade% 0.75%, 0.55%, 0.10%, 0.20%). What are the reasons? (Note that water hardness is too high).

Answer: For light shade dyeing, it is always preferable to add salt after dye addition. And as your water hardness is too high, and then it has become mandatory to add salt after dye addition. Salt addition reduces solubility of dyes and increases substantivity of dyes to materials. To produce light shade, the amount of dye required is very less. So, if the salt is added before dye addition, then this small amount of dye rushes towards fiber which will be difficult to control for even dyeing. Also, your higher water hardness will tend to precipitate the dyes and with addition of salt before dye dosing, this precipitation will be more which will lead to dye spot problem and uneven dyeing.

Question 3: If the fabric loading is not equal in each nozzle, what is the problem during running of the fabric and why?

Answer: Here, the fabric chain length will not be equal in each nozzle. So, cycle time and reel speed will not be the same. But the fabric chains in different nozzles are in a same dye bath. So, if they all are in the same dye bath but are running in different speed, then there will be possibility of chain to chain shade variation.

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Question 4: What is the reason of doing carbonization in PC fabric?

Answer: Carbonization of cellulose is a dehydration process of to remove water from cellulose and leave the carbon behind and thus destroy the cellulose in cotton. To match shade in PC fabric, it is necessary that the shade should be matched in both cotton and polyester part and ultimate shade is matched through effect of shades in both parts. At first, we dye polyester part and then cotton part.

After polyester part dyeing, cotton is removed by carbonization to check the shade of the polyester part against the supplied swatch’s polyester part’s shade.

Questions for the Readers 1. Why do I use dosing in alkali transfer during dyeing?

2. Why does fabric make bad smell in wet condition after long time?

3. What is the reason of softener spot?

4. What is the reason of the yellowish tone when white fabric is wetted for long time?

CROSSWORD PUZZLE CLUES 1. Parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages onto a warp beam.

2. A shedding mechanism used to produce figured pattern without the employment of any heald frame.

3. One of the most luxurious and expensive natural fibers obtained from goats living in Kashmir.

4. A type of indigo dyed fabric.

5. Antonym of “fine”.

6. Artificial wool fiber.

7. Generic name of Lycra.

8. The country which stands a possibility of overtaking China as the world’s biggest cotton importer in the current crop season.

9. Queen of fibers.

10. The gossamer of the East.

11. Process of applying color to fabric in definite pattern or design.

12. Principle knitting element of knitting machine.

13. Synonymous with “client”.

14. The most eco-friendly fiber.

15. 14,400 yards of yarn.

16. A pattern made of thin plate of metal serving as a measuring gauge or guide.

17. Impervious to water.

18. The heart of spinning.

19. Weight in grams of 9 kilometers length of yarn.

20. Accessory used between two layers of fabric in certain parts of a garment for reinforcement and shape retention of those parts.

21.Process of removal of natural and added impurities (oil, wax etc.) from the fabric.

22. The golden fiber of Bangladesh.

23. A type of grass used in clothing with UV-blocking, anti-bacterial and instant moisture evaporation properties.

24. Delivery of manufactured garments to the finished product godown from where it is delivered for shipment.

25. Replacement of an exhausted package with an empty package.

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26. A preliminary bill of sell sent to the buyer in advance of a shipment.

27. Treatment of cotton under tension with alkali to improve lusture and absorbency.

28. A package which supplies thread from the lower part of most of the sewing machines.

29. Most popular synthetic fiber.

30. Ability of a substance to burn or ignite causing fire or combustion.

31. A machine used for producing woven fabrics.

32. Process of removing natural color and improving whiteness of a fabric.

33. Characteristic waviness imparted to warp and weft yarn in woven fabric due to their interlacement.

34. Proportional increase or decrease of the pattern size during garments manufacturing.

35. A line along which two pieces of fabrics are sewn together in a garment.

36. Process of removal of protruding fibers from the surface of yarn or fabric by burning.

37. The most popular job trend among BUTEX students these days.

38. King of fibers.

39. Artificial silk.

40. A mineral fiber which is classified as a “known human carcinogen”.

41. A fabric surface fault characterized by little pills of entangled fibers clinging onto the cloth surface.

42. A natural fiber composed of the same protein that makes the outer protective layer of our skin.

43. Process of separation of cotton fibers from the seeds.

44. Comber waste.

45. One of the most desirable fiber properties without which they cannot be spun into yarn.

46. Process of applying a protective layer on the surface of warp yarn.

47. A 4 letter word starting with “Y” and ending with “N”.

CROSSWORD PUZZLE 2

1 5

7

6

3

4

8 9

10

11

12

13

14 15 16 19

18 21

17

20

22 23

25

24

26 27 29

28 30 31 32

33

34

35

36 37

38

39 40

41

42

43 44

45

46 47

Words to be formed from left to right: 2, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 15, 18, 19, 22, 24, 25, 29, 31, 32, 35, 37, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47.

Words to be formed in the downward direction: 1, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, 17, 20, 21, 23, 26, 27, 28, 30, 33, 34, 36, 38, 39.

N.B: Solve this puzzle and/or the riddles in the following page, take a picture of the solved puzzle/riddle also write your name on top of the page.Then send it via email within 5th february, 2017. First 5 solvers from each segment will be awarded with exiciting prizes.

Email : scienceclub.butex@gmail.com

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RIDDLES 1 - I’m a pretty popular twill fabric.

- Although I come in various colors, people love to see me in blue.

- You can bring a leathery appearance in me by rubbing me with wax; but this action of yours will adversely affect the comfort that I intend to provide you with.

- I’m quite user friendly for you don’t need to wash me frequently.

Now can you guess my name?

2 - I’m a winding machine.

- I prepare the weft packages used in conventional looms.

- The packages that I prepare are wound in a near parallel manner.

- I have almost no fault removing capacity.

Can you guess who am I? 3 - I’m a piece of document.

- You can’t do any sort of international business transaction without me.

- I serve as an evidence in a transaction taking place between the buyer’s and the seller’s bank.

- An invoice is needed to be prepared prior to opening me.

Guess who am I? 4 - I’m a water soluble dye and am anionic in nature.

- I make strong covalent bond with cellulosic fiber and become a part of it.

- Presence of electrolyte is a must for my exhaustion in fibers.

- I’m commonly used in the dyeing operation of most of the natural fibers.

Do you mind guessing my name?

5 - I’m a cotton fabric.

- My EPI is 100 and PPI is 60.

- I’m not highly twisted.

- My warp count is 40 Ne and my weft count is 30 Ne. Now find out my warp count in lbs/spyndle.

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6 - I’m a fabric structure design.

- I provide the fabrics with a compact structure.

- Skip draft is commonly used for producing my effect on fabrics.

- My repeat size is 2X2.

Can you guess my formula number?

7 - I’m a modern spinning system and I follow open end spinning principle.

- I don’t need roving to produce yarn and can produce yarn directly from sliver.

- I have a circular disk which is responsible for the twisting of fibers.

- But I can’t produce finer quality yarn.

Can you guess the rpm of my circular disk?

8 - I’m a printing style.

- I give the best printing results on 100% cotton fabric.

- I’m used in printing the graphics on the casino gaming tables.

- I bleach out a white or light pattern on darker colored ground by using a color-destroying agent.

Can you guess who am I? 9 - I’m a garment washing system.

- I’m applied on garments made from cotton grey fabric.

- I cause the garments to become brilliant bluish white.

- I also impart certain softness to the garments Do you mind guessing my name?

10 - I’m an insoluble dye.

- I’m applied at different pH conditions.

- I’m usually applied on fabric used for indicating the wound healing properties.

- I’m used as a pH indicator Would you like to guess my name?

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We are a brunch of science enthusiast trying to regulate and stimulate science based activities among the studentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of BUTEX. We humbly welcome any sort of contribution to raise the club fund.

Bank account information :

Sonali Bank ltd.

Tejgoan Branch Account Name: BUTEX Science Club Account No: 0124801012840 For more information: Arafat Munna 01918120228 Email Address: scienceclub.butex@gmail.com

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A Magazine by BUTEX Science Club First Issue Session 2016-2017