NZH Travel - Go NZ Feature - 16th June 2020

travel

JUNE 16, 2020

AN APPETITE FOR

AOTEAROA How to eat and drink your way around the country

GO NZ!

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2 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

SPONSORED CONTENT

GOOD TASTE IN TARANAKI M

ost people know the Taranaki region is renowned for its majestic mountain, spectacular surf and friendly locals. However, it doesnʼt stop there - the region deserves to be just as famous for its food. Whether youʼre after flavoursome street tucker, a filling breakfast before embarking on a busy day, or an ethically farmed paddock-to-plate elegant dining, youʼll need to bring your appetite when you explore around this region.

Let us start from the beginning, and the beginning starts in the ground when it comes to food.

Taranaki’s rich volcanic soil is a grower’s delight and the producers gain. From award-winning gin and, white rum, to macadamias, hand crafted chocolate, honey, quinoa, hot sauce, and not forgetting the staples of meat and cheese, with a luxurious twist. Taranaki is home to many local producers, whose products and produce all reap the benefits of the region’s fertile soils, and wide-open spaces.

This handy leg up, as it were, opens the gates to unique ‘behind the scene’ producer experiences.

If you’re a foodie, you can’t go past one of the many local food tours available. From a beekeeper experience with Egmont Honey’s tour group Egmont Tours, to a distillery tour of internationally recognised Juno Gin, there is something for everyone. If you’re after your own curated experience, then Discover Taranaki can help you build something to suit your own pallet.

Breakfast:

As much as it’s fun to sleep in when you’re on holiday, you don’t want to waste too much time snoozing in when visiting Taranaki, and so why not kick things off with a hearty meal. Look for West End Precinct in the Victorian timber building, formally the infamous White Heart Hotel, opposite the reflective Govett-Brewster Art Gallery/Len Lye Centre in the cultural heart of New Plymouth.

Today this elegant edifice and the surrounding precinct is home to Ozone Coffee Roasters where you can down a long black before settling in at nearby Monica’s Eatery for some excellent egg creations. Or stop in at the Public Catering Company to buy baked goods to go, and then hit the road.

Ozone Coffee Roasters For bread connoisseurs, Billow Bakery is wowing epicureans with their exquisite sourdough and small, ever-changing, fresh and thoughtful menu. If you’re situated nearer Stratford, then the Shakee Pear Café at Pioneer Village is the place to be for all-day brunch– they even have vegan options for those who have a green tooth.

Lunch:

Is it time to eat again?

Don’t mind if I do.

But where to go?

How about Someday in Hawera?

This sweet cafe has locals and visitors raving about everything from the baking to bagel burgers. Alternatively, if you find yourself driving along the Forgotten World Highway, head for Whangamomona Hotel & Restaurant for family favourites like wedges, nachos and pea pie and pud. In fact, why not book a room and stay the night, then you can dine on lamb shanks, or mussels in a white wine curry sauce. Once you make it back to New Plymouth, taking in the breath-taking scenery and picture perfect mountain views along the way, it’s time to push the boat out and book a table at Arborio Restaurant, Café and Terrace Bar found adjoining Puke Ariki Museum – home to Meg the Megaladon shark and a variety of after lunch worthy exhibitions.

Dinner:

Taranaki days sure do fly by with the mountain or coastal air whetting the appetite, and if you’re staying at Ngāti Ruanui Stratford Mountain House then you will need to try the home-baked garlic rewena bread while you peruse the rest of the menu.

If China was on your itinerary for 2020, plans may have changed, but you can still get your fix of quality Chinese dining at Laughing

West End Precinct - courtyard Buddha where their authentic Peking Duck will go a long way to soothing your soul for travel opportunities lost.

Liardet Street Eats is another popular place where grounded jetsetters can soothe their itchy feet, because here you’ll find a selection of lively street food vendors in one handy spot, including Viet Nom Nom, Gamma Rays Burgers and Voodoo Vinny’s whose barbecue aromas fill the night air. Equally as delicious for dinner as lunch, with the added benefit of being able to pick and mix if you can’t decide!

Perhaps your relationship with food is more worshipful, in which case you need to visit Social Kitchen, an establishment that has made more than just a name for itself for heavenly food, they’ve also made their home in the former Salvation Army citadel. With the addition of a Mirbrasa charcoal oven, let’s not go too far with the biblical analogies, the focus here is on sharing and flavour. Within three years of opening, Social Kitchen was named one of Cuisine Magazine’s Top 100 Restaurants, so don’t miss the chance to experience it for yourself.

Perhaps lately, more than ever, you’ve fantasised of travelling not just geographically but in time, to an era when things were simpler and Covid-free – well, in New Plymouth you can live that dream at the 1950s inspired Deluxe Diner Café and Milk Bar featuring American diner classics with a rock ‘n’ roll Formica atmosphere. Take the family, your blue suede shoes, and some coins for the duke box.

Boasting sea views at every table, Salt On The Waterfront is another must dine – open from early till late you’ll find them on level one of the Millennium Hotel where you can spill out onto the balcony and catch the afternoon rays over a glass of your favourite

Social Kitchen

Arborio drop, and their famous sharing plate, or dine in for the full decadent dining experience.

On your merry way

Visitors who align themselves more with owls than larks, who believe a good night is a late night, will say cheers when they discover the several classy establishments where they can take their preferred tipple. Itch Wine Bar, Snug Lounge, Good Home Rooftop Bar & Gastro Pub, they are all top-notch and a must-try for a delicious night out.

The final feast

Taranaki plays host to an annual food festival, Feast Festival Taranaki. The festival celebrates the vibrant food and hospitality scene right across Taranaki, with restaurants, eateries and a variety of establishment taking part and creating bespoke offerings and dining experiences.

This year, the festival will be taking place in November, with dates being announced soon – keep an eye on their website for more details and sign up to their newsletter to be the first to feast.

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 3

CONTENTS

travel@nzherald.co.nz »

FROM THE

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TRAVEL EDITOR I would never normally tell you to put this magazine down when you’ve only just started reading, but I feel it’s my duty to give you a stern warning before you go any further. Reader, if you don’t have a very hearty snack next to you right now, you’re really going to regret it.

I’ve spent this week in a constant state of hunger. I’m craving crayfish from Kaikōura and clams from Cloudy Bay; feijoas from a backyard tree and stonefruit from the South Island. I want to spend an afternoon in a Waiheke winery, and experience an evening at Monique Fiso’s fine-dining restaurant Hiakai. I want flat whites and eggs benedict for breakfast, and fish and chips and L&P at the beach for dinner.

Basically, I’m feeling greedy, and it’s all because of the wonderful stories from our writers in this week’s magazine.

Food and drink has become a vital part of any holiday or short-break and in New Zealand, we’re truly spoilt for choice.

Whether you’re heading north, south, east or west for your next Kiwi getaway, there is something delicious waiting there for you, and you’re likely to find inspiration in these 36 pages.

Over lockdown, many of us discovered how comforting food could be — the incessant Instagram photos of sourdough starters and elaborate home-cooked dinners certainly proved that. But now we have the freedom to travel New Zealand, it is time to let someone else clear our plates and nourish our souls. We really do deserve it.

stephanie.holmes@nzherald.co.nz

CONTACTS

Travel Editor: Stephanie Holmes Designers: Courtney Whitaker, Rob Cox Features Production Editor: Isobel Marriner Sub-editors: Jill Stanford, Maureen Marriner, Sue Baxalle Cover Photo: Man O War Vineyard, Waiheke travel@nzherald.co.nz nzherald.co.nz/travel Facebook.com/nzhtravel Instagram.com/nzhtravel Listen to our podcast Trip Notes at iHeartRadio Advertising: Samantha Glasswell Samantha.Glasswell@nzme.co.nz All prices in editorial content are in NZ dollars, unless specified

Resene Buttercup

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A LIFE IN TRAVEL

THE TASTE OF AOTEAROA Staying local is no hardship for gourmet travellers GRAPE ESCAPES What to do in New Zealand’s great wine regions TIKI TOUR Top tips from chefs, food writers and producers AMAZING GRAZING Jesse Mulligan’s A to Z of Kiwi food and drink INSIDER ITINERARIES Expert recommendations for city break dining MOVEABLE FEAST Plan ahead for these delicious events GOLDEN DAZE Simon Wilson’s Aotearoa adventures

Taupō Bay, Northland.

Photo / Supplied

Jono Pryor What are your favourite memories from childhood family holidays in NZ? Travelling to Rangiora, North Canterbury to see my cousins on their farm. I have no place being on a farm. There is no part of me that is practical enough to be of any use to anyone on a farm.

Where is your favourite offthe-beaten-track spot to get away from it all?

We go to my in-laws at Whangamatā. I wouldn’t say it was “off the beaten track” but it’s an idyllic place to get my pasty white thighs out over the summer months.

Whenever we are there it feels like the NZ of old — you spend time swimming, rabbiting on to the neighbours about nothing, and everyone leaves their doors unlocked. Which is a great piece of intel for any burglars reading this magazine . . .

If you were heading on a family getaway now, where would you go and why?

Taupō Bay, Northland. We went to a friend’s wedding there, and it was the most majestic thing we have seen. And coming from

someone who has seen immediately after you have sat in traffic for Beyonce live in concert, hours on the Southern Motorway. that is really saying If you could choose one ultimate, Listen to Jono something. luxury, dream holiday in NZ, & Ben, weekdays What are your best tips for a where would you go? from successful family holiday?

James Cameron’s farm in the 6am-10am on Don’t forget to pack your bags.

Wairarapa. Which goes against The Hits Make sure you pack way too everything I said at the beginning much stuff, and when you get to of this. Also I’m not entirely sure your destination talk about how you if James is open to having low-rent packed way too much stuff. broadcasters at his property, but the What’s your dream NZ road trip? offer is there if you’re reading this James . . .

There is nothing like the feeling of driving For more New Zealand holiday ideas, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew to the Coromandel. In particular the part

Resene Cafe Royale

A FEAST FOR THE EYES Bring your favourite meals and tipple to life with Resene, inspired by our tasty cover.

Proudly NZ made and owned since 1946

Resene Wasabi

Resene Shiraz

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4 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Holidays at Home

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Hot Deals

DEVOURING LUXURY

WONDERFUL WAIHEKE

Spoil your inner gourmand at The George Christchurch. As well as having views of picturesque Hagley Park and River Avon, the hotel is home to an award-winning restaurant, and with the inclusive 50 Bistro Gourmet Indulgence package, guests can enjoy a night in a luxurious executive room, a three-course Chef’s Selection dinner, and a gourmet breakfast at 50 Bistro Restaurant. You’ll also receive complimentary Wi-Fi, free carparking and a late check-out (subject to availability). The 50 Bistro Gourmet Indulgence package is priced from $467.

Visit thegeorge.com/special-offers/50-bistro-gourmetindulgence or call 03 379 4560 to book.

Heletranz Helicopters is partnering with Mudbrick Vineyard & Restaurant for a chance to see Hauraki Gulf from the air, before settling in for a delicious meal and beautiful wines.

Enjoy a spectacular helicopter flight viewing the crater of Rangitoto Island and Motutapu Island before landing at Mudbrick. Enjoy a glass of Mudbrick Bubbles, a superb three-course a la carte lunch or dinner (entree, main and dessert with house-made bread, amuse-bouche and sorbet) and coffee or tea. Make your own way to Matiatia Wharf and cruise back to Auckland on a Fullers ferry. Alternatively, a complimentary vehicle transfer from Mudbrick Vineyard can take you to Reeves Airfield to meet the pilot for a helicopter flight back to Heletranz Heliport. Heli and ferry packages start from $395pp (for six people) and heli return flights start at $595pp.

Email info@heletranz.co.nz or call 09 405 3550 to book.

LIVE LIKE A KING Visiting a vineyard’s cellar door is all well and good, but what about staying next to one? Just 25 minutes from the centre of Queenstown, Kinross is a cellar door, bistro and boutique accommodation where you will be surrounded by nature and the magical world of wine. The team is offering a Gourmet Wine and Food Experience for two.

Spend two nights in a vineyard-view cottage room, tuck into a seasonal and locally crafted three-course dinner, and enjoy a cafe-style breakfast before learning all about the art of taking grape to glass on a complimentary hosted wine tasting with one of the vineyard’s experts.

The Gourmet Wine & Food Experience is priced at $530.

Book direct at kinross.nz or 0800 131 101.

A PICNIC WITH A VIEW

RAVENOUS IN ROTORUA Treat the foodie in your life with something special. Regent ent of Rotorua’s gourmet package makes it easy to eat, drink and be merry. Enjoy a night in a luxurious boutique suite; where a complimentary glass of Methode Champenoise and home-made cookies await you. Indulge your taste buds with a decadent five-course degustation dinner for two in the hotel’s Regent Room — with matching wines. Enjoy a complimentary breakfast in The Regent Room before heading back to reality. z/ The Gourmet package is priced from $490. regentrotorua.co.nz/ packages/the-gourmet or call 07 348 4079 to book.

If you’ve ever dreamed of dining atop a mountain, dream no more.

Indulge in the serenity of the Southern Alps with a private ski plane flight, including a glacier landing and a private picnic. Fly over the Main Divide to the West Coast and view the breathtaking landscape of the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers, with a Tasman Glacier landing. Once you’ve had your fill of beauty from the air, the aircraft will land on one of the many glaciers and the pilot will set up a private picnic on the snow. After you’ve enjoyed the breathtaking views and food, you’ll fly towards Aoraki/Mount Cook for a better view. Picnic amongst the peaks is a 90-minute experience including two glacier landings, nibbles, drinks and plenty of time for photography.

Choose between a ski plane (eight people) or helicopter (six people). The package is priced from $2490. For more information and to book, go to mtcookskiplanes.com/flights-and-tours/picnic-amongst-the-peaks

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 5

SPONSORED CONTENT

IT’S KAI TIME

Eat and drink your way around Aotearoa on these culinary adventures

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easonal local produce bursting with goodness, talented artisan makers, freshly caught kaimoana, world-class wine and beer -- New Zealand has it all when it comes to incredible foodie experiences.

From Northland to Southland, here are some of the must-eats to look out for when you’re tripping around Aotearoa on your next holiday.

NORTHLAND

It’s almost impossible to find lessthan-delicious fish ’n’ chips anywhere in New Zealand, but one of the most iconic places to sit back with an icy beverage and rip open that steaming hot parcel of succulent fish and crunchy chips is at the historic Northland fishing village of Mangonui. Local fishing boats deliver the day’s line-caught fish to its famous over-water Mangonui Fish Shop and your feast is cooked up while you’re admiring the area’s marine life from its deck — this can include stingrays, kingfish, bronze whaler sharks and sometimes even a pod of orca.

Mangonuifishshop.com Tasty mention: There are few better spots for a pub meal than at Russell’s waterfront Duke of Marlborough Hotel, one of New Zealand’s oldest establishments. Theduke.co.nz

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AUCKLAND

You could spend a week exploring Auckland’s neighbourhood dining precincts and never get bored; whether you’re enjoying the waterfront action at the Viaduct Harbour, or hanging out with the city’s most fabulous along Ponsonby and Karangahape Rd. During the day, you will want to hit the shops at Commercial Bay - Auckland’s latest retail, hospitality and commercial hotspot. For a cultural experience, exploring one of the ethnic quarters such as Sandringham for Indian, Dominion Rd for Chinese or the central city for Korean.

Heartofthecity.co.nz/dining Tasty mention: Set a day aside to explore the gastronomic delights of Waiheke Island, just half an hour by ferry from downtown Auckland. As well as beaches that are gorgeous at any time of year, a relaxed vibe and scenic coastal views from almost every twist and turn, Waiheke is home to fantastic wineries and some great restaurants and cafes too.

Tourismwaiheke.co.nz/taste

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THE COROMANDEL

You haven’t lived until you’ve taken on the Kuaotunu Killer icecream, available year-round at the Kuaotunu Store in this lovely part of the Coromandel. For $9 you’ll get seven or eight scoops of up to five flavours served in one, very sturdy cone. Our tip? Get a couple of friends or round

up your whole family to tackle this yummy beast.

16 Black Jack Rd, Kuaotunu

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Tasty mention: Locals and visitors alike love the wood-fired pizza and other goodies at Kuaotunu’s Luke’s Kitchen (Lukeskitchen.co.nz) and the Coromandel is also famous for its scallops.

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Tasty mention: There are some great farmers’ markets in the region, with the Hawke’s Bay Farmers’ Market the oldest of its kind in New Zealand.

Hawkesbaynz.com/eat-and-drink /eat/markets

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Tasty mention: Wellington is awash with great places to eat and drink so it’s hard to single any out, but for a quintessential Welly experience you can’t go past the Maranui Cafe overlooking often wild Lyall Bay near the airport, or one of its sister eateries, Seashore Cabaret, on the Petone foreshore. Maranuicafe.co.nz; Facebook.com/SeashoreCabaret

In te reo Māori, Kaikōura literally means “food/eat” and “crayfish”, and fans of this yummy crustacean would be remiss if they didn’t stop by the legendary blue and white Nin’s Bin caravan on the coastal road between Picton and Christchurch for some of the finest koura in the country.

Facebook.com/ninsbin

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MOERAKI

For a truly memorable dining experience, drive along the eastern coast between Christchurch and Dunedin to find Fleur’s Place, a waterfront restaurant, cafe and bar set on a former early whaling station site at Moeraki. Owner Fleur Sullivan is known for her creative menus that feature kaimoana direct from local fishermen, heritage vegetables, and titi (muttonbird), a delicacy from the Titi Islands near Stewart Island known for its strong, unusual taste.

Fleursplace.com Tasty mention: Another deep south delicacy you’ll find all over this part of the country is the humble cheese roll — think slices of bread covered with grated cheese and rolled into tubes, then toasted. Yum.

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WELLINGTON

The world’s coolest little capital is also New Zealand’s home of craft beer, with dozens of boutique breweries dotted throughout the greater Wellington region. One of the best known is Garage Project which began brewing in a rundown garage in 2011; these days its beer is exported around the world. Check out the brewery’s Taproom in Wellington’s Aro Valley where you can sample 18 revolving taps of brews (and try its wine too) alongside bar snacks made using the wares of local producers.

Garageproject.co.nz

KAIKŌURA

Tasty mention: Seafood abounds in this pretty part of the South Island — if you fancy something other than crayfish, you can swap it out for grouper, cod, mussels, paua, oysters, scallops or whitebait.

Kaikoura.co.nz

HAWKE’S BAY

One of New Zealand’s finest wine regions, Hawke’s Bay does a fine line in winery dining too, all of which have stunning locations to add to the ambience. One of the most famous is Mission Estate Winery’s Mission Restaurant, which is set in a restored historic seminary building in the Taradale Hills with wide-ranging views of Napier and its coastline. The restaurant uses seasonal local produce on its menu offering contemporary fine dining with a European influence, and is open seven days for lunch and dinner.

Hawkesbaynz.com/eat-and-drink/ eat/winery-dining Missionestate.co.nz

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BLUFF

There are some people in New Zealand that would drive its length without question to get their hands on a feed of Bluffies -- Bluff oysters -- the plump, full-of-flavour shellfish dredged up from the depths of Foveaux Strait between March and August each year. Of course, you can find them all over New Zealand during the oyster season — at a premium price of course — but there’s nothing like enjoying a freshly shucked Bluffie just after it has emerged from the ocean. The annual Bluff Oyster Festival was postponed this year because of Covid-19, but you can bet it’ll be back and better than ever for 2021.

Bluffoysterfest.co.nz Southlandnz.com/bluff/bluff-oysters Tasty mention: The Stewart Island battered blue cod on the menu at Oban’s South Sea Hotel ($26) is so good you might order it two days in a row. Or maybe even three.

Southseahotel.co.nz

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6 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

OPEN Y UR

EYES to WORLD D CLASS CLA dining at

Japan

China

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Discover our world of cuisine at fedst.co.nz

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 7

GO NZ: New Zealand Food

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THE TASTE OF AOTEAROA Staying local should be no hardship for gourmet travellers, writes Lucy Corry

W

hen people claim that “New Zealand doesn’t have a cuisine”, Angela Clifford sees red. The North Canterbury farmer, food educator and chief executive of Eat New Zealand says it’s time for Kiwis to explore what makes our kai unique.

“New Zealand food is incredibly diverse. I think it’s incredibly disrespectful when people say we have no cuisine. It’s like saying Italy doesn’t have a cuisine outside of pasta and pizza because you can’t distill a nation into two dishes.

“Our food tastes fresh because we’re so closely connected to the land and the ocean it comes from. New Zealand food tastes like its geography; we have really unique attributes in our UV light, our maritime climate and our young soils. There are so many truly local and regional flavours in our food.

“We need to sit with ourselves for a while and see what’s out there in our different regions. I think that will be a moment of astonishing discovery.”

What does Aotearoa taste like? Awardwinning chef Monique Fiso thinks for a moment and then her words tumble out like Jaffas on a cinema floor.

“It’s briny and salty, but it’s also earthy and fresh,” she says. “It’s about seafood but it’s also about the forest.”

Fiso’s Wellington restaurant, Hiakai, was named one of Forbes’ magazine’s 10 Coolest Places to Eat in 2020 and she’s renowned internationally for her innovative approach to traditional Māori ingredients. Her menus are inspired by Māori myths and legends; her larder is full of infusions from locally foraged manono bark and red matipo.

“I don’t think of sweet, sugary things when I

think about the taste of New Zealand, everything is a lot more earthy,” she says.

Fiso spent the start of lockdown cooking madly like everyone else. Then she turned her attention to devising the concept for Hiakai’s new menu, influenced by Matariki, when the restaurant opened in Level 2.

“One of the dishes is called Waipunarangi, after one of Matariki’s daughters. She represents water, the ocean and clouds, so the dish is very monochrome with white elements. There’s coastal fish, rimurapa (bull kelp), kohlrabi and tuatua clams — it contains all the flavours that I think of when I think of New Zealand.”

It’ll be a long time before Fiso gets a holiday, but if there was one on the cards she’d head to Northland (“there’s so much history there and I’d eat a bunch of seafood”) or drive along the South Island’s West Coast. “Every Kiwi should drive along the West Coast and stop for a bush walk. Most of the ingredients grown in this country are found down there. It’s damp, coastal, there’s a bit of sun and it’s so quiet. Plus you can find lots of quirky things to eat.”

While place — what overseas would be called terroir — plays a big part in our food, Clifford says the key ingredient is cultural.

“New Zealand food tastes like love. You can’t show hospitality without it. When we have a kai, it’s us together as people, a genuine connection that sits at a level other experiences don’t have.”

Clifford hopes that having more Kiwis taking the time to explore their own country might encourage emerging indigenous food-based experiences to flourish.

“We know about 0.1 per cent of our indigenous food story. Now is the time for us to seek out and listen to those stories.”

Angela Clifford, above, and Monique Fiso (top) in foraging mode. Photos / supplied

Authenticity is the secret sauce for any food business, says Rewi “The Hāngı̄ Master” Spraggon.

When he opened a hāngı̄ cafe in downtown Auckland last year, diners were amazed. They’d never tasted the real deal before.

“Wherever I go around the world, I want to eat the authentic version,” Spraggon says. “That’s what people want here too.”

Spraggon considers himself lucky to have grown up in a community where people cooked and ate together. His mum was the head cook on his home marae at Pipiwai in Northland and Spraggon says she taught him the importance of feeding people well: “If you do a bad meal on a marae, people remember it.”

Spraggon has cooked all over the world and his dedication to hāngı̄ is legendary. He doesn’t take shortcuts: under his watch a proper hāngı̄ is a hardcore seven-hour slog that involves no small amount of red tape.

“The art of hāngı̄ is dying and there are marae where they don’t have the knowledge to teach their youth how to do it properly,” he says. “It’s my goal to educate people about the old ways.

The new fishing net needs to ask the old fishing net where the fish are in the sea.”

Spraggon says Māori have always known about Aotearoa’s regional delicacies and tribes traded these special foods between them.

“It’s no different to the wines of Bordeaux, but our New Zealand story has been lost. We talk about being Kiwi this and Kiwi that, but how many of us are true to it? We need to appreciate what we have.”

For New Zealand travel ideas and inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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8 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Holiday Memories

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It was a

PLEASURE Our writers share their favourite memories of drinking and dining in New Zealand

We were on honeymoon and had hopped over Cook Strait with a car and tent in the back. The pancake rocks at Punakaiki were rammed with overseas tourists despite squalls of rain, but we found peace further down the coast at Fat Pipi Pizzas, near the mouth of the Hokitika river and beside the driftwood spelling out the town’s name. Recommended by a colleague who knows his food and drink, this was one of many bright spots on the itinerary: fresh pizza base topped with an obscene amount of whitebait, folded into egg and with garlic butter, mozzarella and capers.

We added the Mariner (fish, shrimps, mussels, salmon, red onion and more capers), and a couple of beers. Lunch was served in a sun-filled rear garden, looking towards the beach and Tasman.

Fat Pipi Pizzas, 89 Revell St, Hokitika — Nicholas Jones There really is no place like home when it comes to our fresh food and wine, and one of my most memorable holiday dining experiences was four years ago at Matakauri Lodge in Queenstown, in a private dining room space called the Library

around NZ at Colombo Martinborough to “wet the baby’s head”, I guess you could say. The sun-soaked day filled with chilled glasses of Colombo’s delicious wines, longawaited catch-ups with friends and baby cuddles was topped off with live music from Shaun Preston on his baby grand piano and a visit from Mr Whippy.

— Stacey Hunt

overlooking the sprawling panorama of Cecil Peak, Walter Peak and The Remarkables.

Yes so fancy (and definitely not an everyday occurrence), but sometimes such experiences can teeter between overcomplicated and perfection. This experience was the latter — the best wines from Otago matched with a five-course tasting menu including kingfish sashimi, comforting celeriac risotto, tender smoked back strap, and a delicious rosemary broth — total fine dining at its best — made even more special as the sun set behind the peaks.

— Dan Ahwa Any sunny day spent sipping rosé in the sun is a good day in my book, but one particular summer weekend, among the vines of my favourite Martinborough vineyard will always have a place close to my heart.

Celebrating the arrival of the newest and littlest addition to our group, we gathered from

Nins Bin, Kaikoura (top); Whitebait pizza from Hokitika's Fat Pipi Pizza (inset). Photos / Graeme Murray; Supplied

A PC* day on the Coronet Peak piste, a film at Arrowtown’s Dorothy Browns cinema, a schist-clad B&B walking distance away. Hang on, what’s the hum behind that worn blue door?

The portal creaked open and we slipped into an apres-ski Narnia of leather armchairs, soft-lit timber beams, and a roaring log fire.

“What tipple would you like?” the barman asked.

“A craft beer, a mulled wine or an alpine cocktail?”

Nestled down a lane off the main street, The Blue Door delivered the craic required to rest

THE

MARLBOROUGH LODGE

FRI I SAT I SUN LUNCH FRI I SAT DINNER

Harvest restaurant is a culinary haven not to be missed by food, wine and craft beer lovers. Nestled among the vineyards and gardens of the iconic Marlborough Lodge, it is a must do when visiting the gourmet province of Marlborough 776 Rapaura Road Blenheim (03) 570 5700 reservations@harvestrestaurant.co.nz www.themarlboroughlodge.co.nz

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 9

From left: Arrowtown’s Blue Door; Matakauri Lodge, Queenstown; Colombo Winery, Martinborough; Angela Casley on the Old Ghost Rd. Photos / isabellarubiephotography; Supplied; File

muscles after channelling our inner Alberto Tomba and Lindsey Vonn up the mountain. Skipping into the night we had learned a lesson: never judge a bar by its entrance. *Pre-Children — Andrew Alderson One of my most memorable meals was not at some swanky restaurant but during a stay at an old miner’s hut in Tiroiti, after a day of cycling the Otago Rail Trail.

Surrounded by beautiful gardens and framed by grapevines, our picture-perfect stone cottage was miles from anywhere, so our hosts prepared a home-cooked meal. After working up an appetite hiking the water races used for gold mining, and stumbling upon ancient moa bones, we returned to Vivien’s divine chicken casserole, green beans fresh from the garden and plum crumble with icecream. We ate in front of a roaring fire in silent appreciation.

It was the perfect meal for the last night of an epic cycle trip.

— Tracey Bond I cried all the way from Timaru to Kaikōura.

Three hundred-plus kilometres of snot and sobbing.

It was 1996 and I was heading north, moving away from my beloved South Island for the first time. Nothing against Wellington. I was desperate for a slice of big-city action, but leaving behind those vast South Canterbury skies and a happy life was a surprising wrench.

My life was packed into my trusty Honda Civic and I had a ferry to catch. But just past Kaikōura, the perfect way to farewell the south presented itself. Nins Bin. The crayfish was wrapped in newspaper. It was sweet, silky perfection.

The sun came out, the mighty Pacific glittered and the South Island had never been lovelier. It was goodbye, and hello.

— Miriyana Alexander One of the most scenic pub crawls possible is a coast-to-coast bus trip from Ōmāpere in the Hokianga to Paihia in the Bay of Islands. Get a bunch of mates, hire a bus and a sober driver, apologise to your liver and start your day with a pre-breakfast beer at the Copthorne Hotel. A whistle-blowing bride-to-be kept us in disorder:

that whistle meant finish your glass and race back to the bus. Last one on, of course, had to drink.

Along the way, call in at a collection of beautiful old Kiwi pubs in historic townships and see some of the best landscapes the country has to offer.

— Helen van Berkel It was the first weekend of level 3.

After a month of being stuck inside, Twitter was awash with talk of takeaways and KFC. But my heart was set on a different type of KFC — a Karaage Fried Chicken burger from Japanese restaurant Super, in Lyttelton.

There was just one problem — a body of water separated me in my lockdown abode in Diamond Harbour from the restaurant. So we texted them and they offered to deliver our meals via the 6.50pm ferry. We just needed to pick up from the wharf. The karaage chicken burgers came with fries, and we ordered gyoza with chilli oil and a decadent miso chocolate torte for dessert.

Takeaways have never tasted so luxurious.

— Juliette Sivertsen Rugged, challenging and as remote as you can get, cycling The Old Ghost Road on the South Island’s West Coast is the most epic ride I have done to date in New Zealand.

Travelling with minimal gear for a night in the wilderness, day one was a 24km climb to the Ghost Lake hut. We wound our way through trees and bush, up, up, up . . . Navigating the steepest of climbs, lugging our bikes over boulders, balancing along the single track, up, up, up . . .

And then suddenly, we burst on to the ridgetop that pierced the brilliant blue sky. The view, incredible. Lunch — a panini stuffed with ham, halloumi, gruyere cheese and loads of crunchy iceberg lettuce — the most delicious thing I’d ever tasted. With two hours still to cycle before we made the hut, the surprise homemade flapjacks were a scrumptious sweet energy boost. You don’t get much closer to heaven than this.

— Angela Casley

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10 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Wine Regions

»

Grape

ESCAPES

There are vineyards all over New Zealand and there’s never been a better time to visit, writes Anna King Shahab

N

ew Zealand’s several thousand vineyards are dotted about in pockets large and small, from the frosty south right up to the subtropical north. Where grapes grow, so does tourism, as many regions in New Zealand demonstrate so well: with wine comes good food, scenery, accommodation and myriad other activities.

Right now, without hordes of international visitors, is the perfect time to plan a trip to one of our lesser-known wine regions.

NORTH CANTERBURY A short drive north of Christchurch a warm embrace awaits between the rolling hills that graduate into the Southern Alps and an untamed coastline. The North Canterbury wine

region includes the wine-growing districts of Waipara Valley, Waikari and Cheviot and the microclimates at play make this area fantastic for tasting wines that distinctly express the place in which they were made. Generally speaking, hot, dry summers and cool, dry winters lend influence to the wines produced here, of which pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling dominate.

The region has a long, rich history in food production and today boasts an incredible lineup of small-scale, artisan and organic producers. Black truffles are farmed here, and although the annual truffle festival in July has this year been quashed by Covid-19, there’s still good news. “We are just about to start serving truffles in the restaurant, from our neighbours, Kings Truffles and Limestone Hills,” says

Penelope Naish, co-owner of award-winning winery and restaurant Black Estate.

With 90 or so vineyards, there are plenty of cellar doors to fill your time. Naish highlights the wine-tasting experiences at Pegasus Bay — the pioneering winemaker in North Canterbury — and Boneline. And for hungry tasters, Naish points out that “Greystone serves small plates, and Terrace Edge offers delicious toasties”.

Stay Black Estate’s B&B is a comfy studio space nestled in an architecturally designed building on the winery’s Home Estate vineyard — handy to the restaurant for a delicious lunch served with wine from vines you can see, and with views over the working vineyard to the foothills and alps beyond. blackestate.co.nz

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 11

Black Estate Wines in North Canterbury (main); Duke of Marlborough, Russell; Gisborne’s Matawhero Vineyard. Photos / Supplied

A stay in the PurePod perched on a tucked-away hillside on Greystone vineyard is one you’ll remember — this glass box is real-deal eco but superbly comfy: roll back the ceiling blind for incredible star-gazing as you lie in bed. purepods.com GISBORNE The country’s third-largest region in terms of wine production, Gisborne is a shoo-in for chardonnay fans. Sheltered by mountains on one side, the area gets the warm temperatures and high sunshine hours needed to grow good chardy, as well as other varieties, including viognier, arneis, gewurztraminer and albarino, as well as Bordeaux reds.

It’s said that breezes off the Pacific lend a maritime tang to wines here.

A drive up the evocatively named Pacific Coast Highway offers a roll-call of spectacular windswept golden beaches and corresponding townships to stop at for a pie and coffee (famous paua pies, even, at Tokomaru Bay’s Cafe 35).

Tolaga Bay-Ūawa affords the chance to walk the 660m-long wharf and the beautiful track to Cook’s Cove.. This is great country for keen cyclists, with trails, mountain bike parks, and the brilliant Gisborne Railbike Adventure — ride a tandem bike along disused rail tracks, no need to steer!

As it’s one of the country’s vital food bowls, one of the best things you can do when visiting Gisborne is get your hands on fresh produce to munch on or cook with. Fans of natural, organic and low-sulphur wines will love a tasting at the country’s trailblazing organic and biodynamic winery, Millton.

Stay The Blackhouse luxury lodge is set on a working farm and overlooks Wainui Beach, so you can

count yourself among the first to see the sun rise, if you so choose. blackhousewainui.co.nz NORTHLAND Stretching from Mangawhai in the south to Karikari Peninsula in the north, the Northland wine region is rather large. You might like to mosey along, spending nights in several different spots as you head further north to the remote and stunningly beautiful Karikari, or perhaps base yourself in the Bay of Islands, where there’s a concentration of accessible vineyards. This is where the country’s first grapevines were planted, by Samuel Marsden, and where Croatian gum diggers laid the foundations of a wine industry in the late 1800s.

Its warm climate makes for spicy shiraz, tropical chardonnay and lesser-known varieties such as chambourcin — and also makes for a great destination year-round, as even a midwinter getaway can offer T-shirt weather and the chance to get out on the water — a fishing adventure or a morning spent parasailing, followed by an afternoon visiting cellar doors near Kerikeri.

A visit to Kerikeri’s Old Packhouse Market on a Saturday morning is a great way to meet local producers, including winemakers, and taste their wares. A trip over to Russell is a must, along with a booking at The Duke of Marlborough for lunch or dinner — you can’t beat the local fish and shellfish on the menu there.

Stay On 1200ha with wetlands, beaches, a golf course, and vineyard, Carrington Estate on Karikari Peninsula is a luxurious way to immerse yourself in a magical corner of Northland. carrington.co.nz

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GO NZ: Wine Regions

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travel

Grape ESCAPES WAITAKI VALLEY A geologist’s dream, decked out with limestone outcrops, pinnacles and ancient marine fossils, the Waitaki Valley — just an inland hop from Ōamaru, three hours’ drive from Queenstown or two from Dunedin — is also building a name for its wine. Challenging weather, silts from the Waitaki River, and the latest harvests in the country lend a unique flavour to its pinot noir, aromatic whites and chardonnay.

As our newest wine district, the Waitaki isn’t yet peppered with cellar doors but there are several — Ostlers and River T’s are loved by locals. To get a handle on the stories of the area and taste a wide range of the wines made here, booking a Waitaki Wine Tour with guide Sue

Mansworth is an excellent idea. “For a long time we weren’t on any of the maps, or we were lumped in with Central Otago, but a couple of years ago we were given the status of a distinct wine district.” Not many of the boutique wineries here can keep a cellar door open (there are a few, read on), so Sue does tastings on behalf of some wineries as well as a couple of cellar door visits each tour. “I plan each tour separately,” says Sue. “I take people off-road, down back roads, and talk them through some history. We do a bit of scenic geology too — the scenery around here is spectacular.”

In Ōamaru, Scott’s Brewery is great for pizzas and craft beers (including gluten-free beer), and Cucina for an upmarket dining experience. Try the feasting menu at Bevan Smith’s Riverstone Kitchen — beautifully prepared hyperlocal, ethi-

cal fare — and make time for a wander through the gardens (look out for the castle). Fleur’s Place at Moeraki isn’t too far a drive for the country’s best seafood on the menu, but do make sure to book.

Stay Luxury lodge Pen-y-bryn is a stunner, and dining there is a great way to taste local; the restaurant belongs to the Slow Food Movement and much of the food on the menu is grown onsite. The other ingredients are sourced within 100km. penybryn.co.nz WAIRARAPA With more than 20 cellar doors and growing, and easily accessible from our capital city, the wine region of Wairarapa contributes just 1 per cent

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of the country’s production, yet boasts some of the country’s most-lauded boutique wines.

This winter is a wonderful time to plan a visit — Greytown is putting on a Festival of Christmas all through July to welcome visitors back to the region with special accommodation, dining and store promotions, community-driven events and the already-pretty Victorian village decked out in sparkly lights.

Peppers Parehua is running a tasting of Escarpment wines — four premium wines paired with canapes. Boutique gin-distilling duo Reid +Reid are set to open a new tasting room (cofounder Chris Reid says it’s scheduled for August) showcasing their range of gins made with native botanicals. Te Kairanga cellar door has reopened and has a calendar of events planned over the winter weekends as well as an

Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 13

exciting new build beginning this year — a multimillion-dollar hospitality destination for Foley Wines’ brands (Te Kairanga, Martinborough Vineyard and Lighthouse Gin), featuring a restaurant, tasting room, underground barrel hall, and gin distillery.

Martinborough is at the heart of the winegrowing district and with its neat grid of flat roads radiating from the town square, the most fun way to explore its cellar doors and scenery is by bike.

Green Jersey Explorer Tours offers bike hire (including e-bikes, tandems and kids’ bikes) and tours of what they like to call this “haven for no-Lycra cycling”.

Stay Peppers Parehua is a boutique hotel nestled among vineyards a short walk from the centre of Martinborough. The Pavillion restaurant serves the best of Wairarapa produce, or you can order picnic hampers to take away. peppers.co.nz/parehua NO INTRODUCTION NEEDED ...

Deserving of the international fame they enjoy, our leading wine regions are always a good time.

In Marlborough, virtually everyone you meet is either growing grapes, making wine with them, or running a business that thrives on the flourishing industry here. Don’t miss the beau-

Left: Flat-out loving Martinborough’s vineyards; top, River-T estate inland from Ōamaru; harmony ‘n’ vines in the Wairarapa.

Photos / Jet Productions; supplied

tiful food at Arbour, a history lesson in the worldleading business of sauvignon blanc at Brancott Estate’s cellar door, and a day soaking up the tranquil serenity of the Marlborough Sounds.

A hike up Te Mata peak, forest bathing among the tall trunks in The Great Redwood Forest, a behind-the-scenes tour with rescued penguins at The National Aquarium — there’s plenty to enjoy before and after leisurely wine-tastings and lunches in Hawke’s Bay. Hunkering down by a roaring fire with an exemplary pinot noir in the very place it was made — Central Otago — nails the juxtaposition of comforting luxuries and rugged landscape. With a drop in visitor numbers, now is a great time to plan for the Central Otago Rail Trail, with its many accommodation and dining options en route.

An island a short ferry ride away from the country’s biggest city, dotted all over with wineries, top-class restaurants and fringed with white-sand beaches. It’s no wonder Waiheke is a first port of call for many wine-loving international tourists but now, with only domestic tourism, it is the perfect time to find this island unusually quiet, in a good way.

For more New Zealand holiday ideas and inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

travel

14 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Wine Regions

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The

BEST in the WEST

West Auckland’s wines are produced close to the city but their origins are a world away, writes Maggie Wicks

D

almatian history is everywhere in West Auckland. You can see it as you drive. As central Auckland falls away, it gives way to suburbs, then motorways, then the low-lying industry of car yards and forklift hires. Finally, the paddocks and tractors and fruit trees of the countryside, only 25 minutes from town.

As the landscape changes, so does the language. Viksich. Vitasovich. Fistonich and Yukich. The history is written directly on to the street signs and the businesses.

And then there is wine. Award-winning, ex-

Barrels at Soljans Estate Winery. Photo / supplied

perimental, modern and traditional. It’s all here.

Kumeu is one of New Zealand’s most historic wine regions. Babich, one of the region’s bestknown wineries, has been producing wine for 100 years. Josip Babich was just 14 years old when he left his home in Dalmatia, and set sail for New Zealand. He was alone — he never saw his parents again. He was here to dig kauri gum with his four brothers but ended up establishing one of New Zealand’s most historic vineyards.

Down the road at Kumeu River, history is in the making. The Brajkovich family left Croatia for New Zealand in the 1930s and have gone on to be internationally recognised as setting a

benchmark for non-Burgundy chardonnays.

In 2014, a very special blind tasting took place.

London wine distributors Farr Vintners brought together a room of world-leading wine experts, critics and writers. Each of Kumeu River’s four chardonnays were tasted against white burgundies (chardonnay grown and produced in the French region of Burgundy) from the finest French producers. And the result?

Kumeu triumphed over the top white burgundies in every category except one — where it came first-equal.

Kumeu River was started by Mate and Melba Brajkovich, and the company is now run by their

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 15

four children. Between them there is a Master of Wine, a hospitality expert, a chemical engineer and a marketing professional — they really couldn’t have planned it better.

Rather than pitch into the juice with commercially cultivated yeast, they use a natural fermentation, leaving it to the ravages of the wild yeasts in the atmosphere. The result is nothing short of gorgeous. This August they’ll release the 2019 Hunting Hill chardonnay, which they say is their best ever — do not miss out.

This is beautiful country to drive through, but you may not recognise any of it past Swanson, which is the last passenger stop on the rail line. These days the lines further out carry only stock, no passengers, which is a crying shame. A train would be a handy and safe way to get home after a day of wine tasting.

In the Ararimu Valley, Westbrook is named after an old station, between Waikomiti and Glen Eden, which closed in the 80s. The winery was owned by the Ivisovich family for 85 years, until they sold to another local family just a few years ago. Here they offer not just a wine tasting, but an education in wine and food matching.

Order the cheese and wine platter, and you’ll find a surprise on there — an outstanding bad match, which the server will delight in watching you discover for yourself. It’s a great lesson, and they’ll make sure you end on something delicious.

As you drive through Kumeu, you’ll realise that they’re experimental out here. Whereas Marlborough specialises in sauvignon blanc, in Kumeu they’re always testing and adjusting, trying new grapes, old grapes, fashionable styles and unheard of ones.

Albarino is popular at the moment — it’s the chardonnay drinker’s sauv, and you’ll find it at many of the Kumeu cellar doors.

Top: A farm-to-table experience at the Hunting Lodge; above: Babich Wines founder, the late Josip Babich. Photos / supplied

At the Hunting Lodge you’ll find an orange wine, a love-it or loathe-it drop that is fermented with the skins on. They’ve most recently released the Chardy Jack — a bourbon-barrel-fermented chardonnay that could have happily come home with me.

Once a private country estate, the historic 19th-century lodge has been hosting Aucklanders’ boozy lunches for five decades. This is also the site of New Zealand’s first sauvignon blanc. Now, more than 70 per cent of New Zealand wine is sauv and the Hunting Lodge still bottles Homeblock sauvignon from 40-year-old vines.

At the lodge, guests can choose a pizza to nibble at the lawn bar, play petanque in the family area, visit the cellar door for a tasting (free if you buy a bottle), or take a table in the airy all-white conservatory, where the windows run from floor to ceiling.

The restaurant took chef Des Harris from Clooney and put him in charge of this beautiful dining area, where he works with a permaculturalist to create a sustainable farm-to-table experience.

We entered starving, we left stuffed.

There was homegrown roasted beetroot served with ricotta and huge wedges of focaccia, a painterly pumpkin soup splattered with oils and petals and seeds, followed by lamb shoulder with fricelli pasta.

After that, passionfruit and rosemary jellies with salted caramel fudge, and finally a glass of amaretto on ice appeared. M’sieur, it is only wafer thin…

Sated, satisfied, and a bit fuzzy around the edges, we walked out into the cold night, where a taxi was waiting.

It was a dreamy 35 minutes back to Auckland along the dark and empty roads. An easy end to an easy, and excellent, day out.

A wine tour of Kumeu Where to go BABICH WINES For a history lesson and great hospitality, plus the terrace is the perfect place on a sunny day. babichwines.com SOLJANS A popular spot for lunch. Visit the cellar door for a wine flight, from the sparkling moscato to the tawny port. soljans.co.nz KUMEU RIVER A cellar door only. Stop by for a tasting of those chardonnays, and to learn about the history of this family-run business. kumeuriver.co.nz COOPERS CREEK Cosy in winter; gigs and picnics on the lawn in summer. cooperscreek.co.nz WESTBROOK (pictured below) Beautiful dining area overlooking manicured lawns.

Explore the grounds and experience the wine and cheese pairing. westbrook.co.nz THE HUNTING LODGE The perfect place to finish, from pizza to fine dining, and some unique bottlings. thehuntinglodge.com How to do it It’s not far but if everyone wants to wine taste, arrange a driver. NZ Wine Pro (nzwinepro.co.nz) and Fine Wine Tours (finewinetours.co.nz) offer door-to-door service with an expert to introduce the history, the winemakers and the wines you taste, plus lunch is included.

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16 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Foodie Destinations

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Left: Feijoas are one of Lucy Corry’s favourite ingredients; Below: Sid Sahrawat; Peter Gordon; Lucy Corry, and Nic Watt.

Photos / Getty Images; Supplied; File

tour tiki

A selection of New Zealand’s top chefs, food writers and producers share their favourite eateries, ingredients and little-known gastronomic gems to be devoured on your next travels through Aotearoa Favourite Kiwi eateries Sid Sahrawat (Sidart, Cassia, Sid at the French Cafe): Amisfield Bistro in Queenstown. Chef Vaughan Mabee is really going all out showcasing New Zealand ingredients. The setting is incredible, and Vaughan’s cooking is complemented by some gorgeous Amisfield wines.

Amistead Bistro, 10 Lake Hayes Rd, Queenstown Peter Gordon (The Sugar Club, Bellota): The best thing I’ve eaten recently was in Whanganui, at Citadel Cafe in Castlecliff (my family suburb). Breakfast of a delicious Health Bowl including house-made kimchi, spiced nuts, roast kūmara, hummus. And a fantastic vegan dahl coconut curry with flatbread.

Citadel Cafe, 14 Rangiora St, Castlecliff, Whanganui Lucy Corry (Be Well food writer): I think it has to be Rita: the so-tiny yet so-wonderful Wellington restaurant owned by Kelda Haines and Paul Schrader. Everything about Rita, from the uber-seasonal set menu that always manages to nail exactly what I want to eat, to the thought-

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TOP reasons to visit

ful wine list and the magic cutlery drawers, is pitch-perfect.

Rita, 89 Aro St, Wellington Nic Watt (MASU, INCA, Akarana Eatery, Stonyridge Vineyard): The Kawau Boating Club is run

by Robin and Davo, who are absolute champions and have brilliant hospitality. It’s a small pilgrimage to get there but well worth the effort.

Kawau Boating Club, Kawau Island Mark Southon (O’Connell St Bistro): When I first arrived in New Zealand I worked in Queenstown for a couple of years. While we were there, my wife, Paula, and I discovered a small Italian restaurant called Bella Cucina in Brecon St. It’s very simple but with great food. Now when we return to Queenstown on holiday it’s still on the list of our “must eat” places, along with a few others: Public, Amisfield and the infamous burger bar — Fergburger.

Bella Cucina, Brecon St, Queenstown

Kathy Paterson (Be Well food writer): My first stop in Wellington is always Floriditas Cafe & Restaurant in the heart of Cuba St. Floriditas makes me feel at home and has cleverly mastered the combination of delicious food, a perfect wine list and friendly professional staff.

Along the street, Loretta is my favourite breakfast spot, serving fresh, simple and seasonal dishes.

Their preserves adorn the counters and last time I was there, hogging the limelight, was a stunning, enormous ceramic bowl filled to the brim with winter pears.

Floriditas and Loretta, Cuba St, Wellington Unexpected foodie delights Helen Dorresteyn, (Clevedon Buffalo Co. and Clevedon Village Farmers Market): On a roadie recently we stopped in Waihi at The German Bakery.

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P U K E K O H E T R AV E L

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The German Bakery, Waihi (left); Rita’s, Wellington; Amisfield Bistro (below).

Their bread and pastries are made from scratch and the cafe is relaxed and comfortable.

It’s like being welcomed into someone’s home for a delicious repast.

The German Bakery, 54a Seddon St, Waihi Kathy Paterson: The Kaipara Harbour: super fresh flounder at Pahi, keen gardeners at Paparoa selling homegrown vegetables from car boots and baking stalls at Maungaturoto.

Nic Watt: Nins Bin on the Kaikōura Coast is brilliant for fresh boiled crayfish.

Best I’ve eaten.

Nins Bin, Half Moon Bay 7371, Kaikōura Sid Sahrawat: We love the wines at Craggy Range in Hawke’s Bay, especially their Le Sol and Sophia. So we were blown away when we stayed there last year and dined at the restaurant.

Chef Casey McDonald really puts the focus on the region’s produce, even growing a lot of the produce onsite. A highlight for us was the Patangata Station grass-fed rib eye with basil chimichurri, pepper sauce and confit garlic potatoes that we shared. Nothing like a good steak matched with amazing red wine.

Craggy Range restaurant, 253 Waimarama Rd, Havelock North Mark Southon: It’s not unexpected but a lunch that’s blown me away is at Gatherings in Christ-

church. Alex Davies is an amazing chef and the crispy skin ceviche salad is out of this world.

Gatherings, 5/2 Papanui Rd, Merivale, Christchurch Lucy Corry: On a recent trip to Hamilton it was brilliant to rediscover the amazing Sichuan Style restaurant.

Their dumplings are worth the trip to Hamilton alone, and the spicy stir-fried chicken with chillies and Sichuan peppercorns is every bit as good as I remembered it being 10 years ago. Fabulous friendly service makes this unassuming little place a must-visit when you’re in The ‘Tron.

Sichuan Style, 24 Collingwood St, Hamilton The best Kiwi ingredients Mark Southon: It’s got to be any type of seafood, fish or Bluff oysters but my favourite are the Cloudy Bay Clams from Marlborough: sweet and tender and so versatile in recipes.

Helen Dorresteyn: Kawakawa leaf.

Blanched and shredded finely into a salad gives it some punch. I get it out of the garden but it’s prolific in the bush so I imagine it would be easy enough to grow in most New Zealand gardens.

Helen Dorresteyn (above); Mark Southon (left); Kathy Paterson (below)

Lucy Corry: If money was no object, I’d say Bluff oysters (not least because my generous neighbour just gave me some, which I’ve eaten with some thick-cut wholemeal bread and butter).

Otherwise, feijoas, picked from the tree in my backyard and eaten on the spot.

Sid Sahrawat: I’m in love with blackfoot pāua that comes from Bluff. It has great texture and flavour. I’m using it in different ways with various ingredients on the menu at Sid at the French Cafe. At the moment we slice it fine and poach it in butter, any small bits are dehydrated and made into crackling, so we don’t waste even a tiny bit.

Nic Watt: I’m not huge into foraging, however I am a lover of the ocean and very keen on diving and snorkelling. Kina, fresh from the sea, cracked open and eaten after a wash in fresh water … Kiwi as!

Kathy Paterson: New Zealand grass-fed lamb and New Zealand shellfish including pāua, tuatua, cockles (littleneck clams), Bluff oysters and green-shell mussels. Stuff a boned shoulder of lamb with sourdough breadcrumbs mixed with softened onion and garlic, chopped fresh herbs, lemon zest, sunflower seeds and nuts.

You can’t beat gathering your own shellfish.

Otherwise, take a trip to your local fish market or fish shop. Use shellfish raw or flashed over heat. I love a fritter, or littleneck clams or tuatua added at the last minute into a simple pasta dish.

The best stops along the way Sid Sahrawat: If we are heading down Coromandel way, Luke’s Kitchen for wood-fired pizza. The kids are always happy with a yummy pizza. It’s a great start to a Coromandel holiday. Luke’s Kitchen, 20 Black Jack Rd,

Kuaotunu Mark Southon: I love stopping in at Pōkeno Village on the way home. Love the icecreams but have not got past four scoops (they can do 12 or more on a single cone). And the bacon and sausages from the Pōkeno butchers are superb.

Pōkeno Ice Cream & Coffee Shop and Pōkeno Bacon, Great South Rd, Pokeno Kiwi road trip nostalgia Lucy Corry: When I was a child we had an annual caravan holiday at Ōhope Beach, where I have fond memories of eating pipi with vinegar, sun-warmed stonefruit and freshly picked sweetcorn. And, of course, the occasional Choc Bar icecream from the dairy — which was an exciting treat for a country kid.

Kathy Paterson: Our family road trips were mainly day affairs as for the best part of the year we couldn’t leave the farm for long amounts of time. We packed up picnic baskets and headed to places like Lake Ferry or Walls Whare. On the way home we stopped in Greytown for fresh berries and real fruit icecreams.

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Go NZ: A to Z of New Zealand food and drink

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 19

AMAZING GRAZING GRA

world-famous fish and chip shop may be just down the road but lately it’s been Apatu Aqua in Cooper’s Beach that’s been winning all the awards. There aren’t many things I’d drive four hours for but their natural smoked eel is on the list. Alessandro’s is the best pizza I’ve eaten in New Zealand (a three Michelin-star Italian chef I know agrees with me), but you have to head down a Havelock North alleyway to find it.

North Canterbury is a great foodie destination and the restaurant at Black Estate is just the right combination of comfort and cutting edge. Find a table with a view of the vines and enjoy chef Grant Soeburg’s BBQ Wash Creek lamb, sourced from an organic farm less than five minutes away.

Casey’s Diner at Craggy Range is a new familyfriendly eatery in one of Hawke’s Bay’s most stunning locations, named for its jagged mountain skyline. Casey’s signature Royale is the burger to end all arguments. A little further down the line, C’est Cheese in Featherston is staffed by cheesemongers who prefer to think of themselves as “matchmakers”.

Try to nab a doughnut next time you’re in Marlborough — Trinidadian-Canadian Marcia Chang-Hong is a local secret, but you can track down her sublime jam-and cream-filled creations via

From Alessandro’s pizza to Zany Zeus cheese, Jesse Mulligan takes you on an alphabetical journey through the very best of New Zealand

Facebook. And though the mind-bending flavours of Duck Island icecream are now in Ponsonby too, I’m convinced it tastes better from the original store in Hamilton East.

There’s something beautiful about the way they serve food at the capital’s Eleven Fifty Four Pastaria, a counter serviceonly pasta restaurant on a glassy corner of Cuba St. E is also for Emerson’s, the flagship taproom of local Dunedin brewer Richard Emerson. He’s a craft beer pioneer who also loves trains — listen for the whistle as you walk into the bathrooms.

The Coromandel drive can be a nightmare but you can break it up with a stop at The Falls, a casual and friendly outdoor eatery just off the main track in the Karangahake Gorge. You can’t really call Fleur’s Place in Moeraki a secret but, a piece of fish will still taste better there than anywhere else in the country.

Hamilton is rightly proud of Good George, a craft beer renowned for its freshness — for the freshest taste of all, drink it from the flagship taproom in a renovated church in Frankton. I can’t wait to get back to Gatherings in Christchurch, where an incredibly talented chef encourages you to build your own table feast from the stunning centrepiece and side dishes he provides.

There are other reasons for a foodie to stop in Hamilton, including plenty of good coffee — Hazel Hayes on the main drag is a great choice. Wellington has two great H’s — grab a customised cocktail at Hawthorn or go prime ministerspotting at Hillside, a truly great restaurant serving modern, seasonal dishes from a tiny building in

Black Estate Winery, Waipara Valley (main); From left: Alessandro’s pizza, Havelock North; Eleven Fifty Four Pasteria, Wellington; Marcia Chang-Hong’s doughnuts; Wellington’s Ramen Shop; Duck Island icecream; barbecue from Kerikeri’s Wingless Angel. Photos / Supplied; file

Thorndon. The set menu is the best plan if you have the time and the budget.

A glance at Inati’s menu will tell you straight away this place is different. The menu is organised under the headings Earth, Land and Sea and though that takes a moment to get your head around, once you’ve ordered you’ll find yourself enjoying just about the best restaurant meal you can find in Christchurch.

Dunedin has taken a little longer to catch up with the rest of the country’s restaurant scene but there is good food if you look hard enough. That includes several good Japanese eateries — Jitzu is the option to go for, now open in two locations just off the Octagon and at the south end of town.

Speaking of Japanese, Kinji in Christchurch is worth finding, if just for their incredible selection of sashimi and nigiri: fresh, cold fish expertly cut to melt in the mouth. Down the line, Dunedin finally has world-class vegan food (well, the students always had baked beans) at Kind Grocer, a plant-based deli on Vogel St. The food at Larder in Wellington’s Miramar has no right to taste as good as it does — chef Jacob Brown presides over a cafe lunch menu that would work in any evening bistro. If the lamb’s brains aren’t for you try one of his baked creations, like the raspberry tartlet with elderflower marshmallow and almond. And don’t leave Wellington or the letter L without picking up a salted caramel cookie from Leeds Street bakery.

Mahoe Cheese is an essential stop for us when heading north. You can peek into their working

cheese factory and taste some award winning Dutch-style favourites before continuing on your journey. Meat and Liquor might not win any awards for their name but they are a world-class steakery in New Plymouth — an essential destination for beef nerds whose questions about pasture, ageing and grain feed will all be answered with pleasure.

One of my favourite places to drink wine, Wellington’s Noble Rot is the dream creation of an obsessed sommelier. If you’re lucky you’ll be served by Maciej Zimny himself, a man devoted to sourcing the world’s best wines and choosing the right one to pour into your glass at the right moment. Plan a drink here before dinner.

Origin Earth Cheese is one of my most beloved producers in Hawke’s Bay, found either at the farmers’ market or at their “cellar door” next to Te Mata Winery. The cheeses are made from fresh, non-homogenised milk and you can taste the difference. Speaking of markets, the Otago Farmers Market at Dunedin Railway Station is a real experience: chew through a banh mi as you browse dozens of stalls heaped with seasonal produce.

Last I heard the Pyramid Valley winery cellar door was set to re-open, but it’s a bit off the trail so do call ahead to make sure someone is there to let you in. It’ll be worth the detour — in my opinion they make some of the finest pinot noir and chardonnay in New Zealand. Meanwhile, it can be hard to find an after-dinner drink in Havelock North but Piku’s alleyway bar is the perfect spot for a Negroni (and a Japanese snack if you’re still hungry).

Great restaurants inside hotels sometimes feel more like an overseas thing, but QT Wellington’s Hippopotamus and Hot Sauce break the mould. Post-Covid, Hippopotamus is operating as a takeaway wine cellar but will no doubt be back to full

strength soon, while Hot Sauce serves brilliant Asian fusion food and is always among the medals in the annual Welly on a Plate burger contest.

Two of my favourite R’s are in Wellington — the fantastically simple Ramen Shop in Newtown and Te Aro’s Rita, which is as good as restaurants get in New Zealand (and is right up there internationally, too). When in Queenstown give your body a break from restaurant eating for a day or two and get some provisions at the Remarkables Market, a charming and well-stocked farmers’ market running every Saturday from spring to autumn.

Tucked into an alleyway, Shepherd is the flagship restaurant of Shepherd Elliot, an essential Wellington personality whose progressive and sustainable approach to food is all the more enjoyable because it tastes so good as well.

In Arrowtown Slow Cuts is the home of beautiful meat cooked low and slow by the incredible team behind La Rumbla tapas bar.

Neither a cellar door nor a brewery, Hawke’s Bay’s Three Wise Birds Garden Bar is a great chance to taste the third type of ferment — cider — fresh from the tap, in the heart of pipfruit country. There is plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, plus great food to nosh on while you make your way through your tasting paddle.

A great totem for Christchurch’s hospo rebuild, the stylishly modern cafe Unknown Chapter provides slick service and top food along with great coffee in an unexpectedly foodie part of town (there’s a fantastic international food court just across the road).

Veggie Guy Bobbie isn’t the only reason to visit Christchurch’s new Riverside Market but he is the only reason beginning with the letter V. Grab some of the fresh local produce or linger at one of the many other great dining options nearby (they all buy their veges from him too).

This upmarket dining hall has been

expertly curated — you could buy every meal here for a week and not run into a single dud.

I preferred the traditional Post Office Square Farmers’ Market to Kerikeri’s more recent market in the Old Packhouse.

But the new one has one great thing going for it — some of the best Americanstyle barbecue I’ve tasted in New Zealand. Ask someone to point you toward Wingless Angel, order a mix of meats (but make sure they include brisket). If you’re on a night out in Hamilton, walk past the strip of student pubs and head to Wonderhorse, a cocktail bar that would stand toe to toe with anything on Ponsonby Rd. XCHC is a seriously cool collaborative space that does great coffee and simple, tasty food. Suburban and progressive with a load of x-factor, this is the face of post-quake Christchurch and a perfect caffeine stop for visitors on the way from the city to Sumner and beyond.

Slightly outside the brief but worth looking out for on restaurant menus across New Zealand is Yellow Brick Road, a new approach to seafood, operated by former Wellington celeb chef Martin Bosley. At 4.30pm each day he texts the day’s catch to chefs around the country, who text back their order which arrives in time for service the next day — always fresh, always sustainable, and often a fish species or variety of shellfish you won’t have come across before.

The OGs of Greek-style cheeses in New Zealand, Zany Zeus stock their traditional style feta and haloumi in every gourmet food store that matters, but also operate a store in Lower Hutt that every cheese lover should make a pilgrimage to at least once in their life. And if you’re on the Taupo-Napier road look out for Zeelandt craft brewery before you hit Esk Valley — it’s open business hours, with some flexibility.

18 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

Go NZ: A to Z of New Zealand food and drink

A

»

travel

Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 19

AMAZING GRAZING GRA

world-famous fish and chip shop may be just down the road but lately it’s been Apatu Aqua in Cooper’s Beach that’s been winning all the awards. There aren’t many things I’d drive four hours for but their natural smoked eel is on the list. Alessandro’s is the best pizza I’ve eaten in New Zealand (a three Michelin-star Italian chef I know agrees with me), but you have to head down a Havelock North alleyway to find it.

North Canterbury is a great foodie destination and the restaurant at Black Estate is just the right combination of comfort and cutting edge. Find a table with a view of the vines and enjoy chef Grant Soeburg’s BBQ Wash Creek lamb, sourced from an organic farm less than five minutes away.

Casey’s Diner at Craggy Range is a new familyfriendly eatery in one of Hawke’s Bay’s most stunning locations, named for its jagged mountain skyline. Casey’s signature Royale is the burger to end all arguments. A little further down the line, C’est Cheese in Featherston is staffed by cheesemongers who prefer to think of themselves as “matchmakers”.

Try to nab a doughnut next time you’re in Marlborough — Trinidadian-Canadian Marcia Chang-Hong is a local secret, but you can track down her sublime jam-and cream-filled creations via

From Alessandro’s pizza to Zany Zeus cheese, Jesse Mulligan takes you on an alphabetical journey through the very best of New Zealand

Facebook. And though the mind-bending flavours of Duck Island icecream are now in Ponsonby too, I’m convinced it tastes better from the original store in Hamilton East.

There’s something beautiful about the way they serve food at the capital’s Eleven Fifty Four Pastaria, a counter serviceonly pasta restaurant on a glassy corner of Cuba St. E is also for Emerson’s, the flagship taproom of local Dunedin brewer Richard Emerson. He’s a craft beer pioneer who also loves trains — listen for the whistle as you walk into the bathrooms.

The Coromandel drive can be a nightmare but you can break it up with a stop at The Falls, a casual and friendly outdoor eatery just off the main track in the Karangahake Gorge. You can’t really call Fleur’s Place in Moeraki a secret but, a piece of fish will still taste better there than anywhere else in the country.

Hamilton is rightly proud of Good George, a craft beer renowned for its freshness — for the freshest taste of all, drink it from the flagship taproom in a renovated church in Frankton. I can’t wait to get back to Gatherings in Christchurch, where an incredibly talented chef encourages you to build your own table feast from the stunning centrepiece and side dishes he provides.

There are other reasons for a foodie to stop in Hamilton, including plenty of good coffee — Hazel Hayes on the main drag is a great choice. Wellington has two great H’s — grab a customised cocktail at Hawthorn or go prime ministerspotting at Hillside, a truly great restaurant serving modern, seasonal dishes from a tiny building in

Black Estate Winery, Waipara Valley (main); From left: Alessandro’s pizza, Havelock North; Eleven Fifty Four Pasteria, Wellington; Marcia Chang-Hong’s doughnuts; Wellington’s Ramen Shop; Duck Island icecream; barbecue from Kerikeri’s Wingless Angel. Photos / Supplied; file

Thorndon. The set menu is the best plan if you have the time and the budget.

A glance at Inati’s menu will tell you straight away this place is different. The menu is organised under the headings Earth, Land and Sea and though that takes a moment to get your head around, once you’ve ordered you’ll find yourself enjoying just about the best restaurant meal you can find in Christchurch.

Dunedin has taken a little longer to catch up with the rest of the country’s restaurant scene but there is good food if you look hard enough. That includes several good Japanese eateries — Jitzu is the option to go for, now open in two locations just off the Octagon and at the south end of town.

Speaking of Japanese, Kinji in Christchurch is worth finding, if just for their incredible selection of sashimi and nigiri: fresh, cold fish expertly cut to melt in the mouth. Down the line, Dunedin finally has world-class vegan food (well, the students always had baked beans) at Kind Grocer, a plant-based deli on Vogel St. The food at Larder in Wellington’s Miramar has no right to taste as good as it does — chef Jacob Brown presides over a cafe lunch menu that would work in any evening bistro. If the lamb’s brains aren’t for you try one of his baked creations, like the raspberry tartlet with elderflower marshmallow and almond. And don’t leave Wellington or the letter L without picking up a salted caramel cookie from Leeds Street bakery.

Mahoe Cheese is an essential stop for us when heading north. You can peek into their working

cheese factory and taste some award winning Dutch-style favourites before continuing on your journey. Meat and Liquor might not win any awards for their name but they are a world-class steakery in New Plymouth — an essential destination for beef nerds whose questions about pasture, ageing and grain feed will all be answered with pleasure.

One of my favourite places to drink wine, Wellington’s Noble Rot is the dream creation of an obsessed sommelier. If you’re lucky you’ll be served by Maciej Zimny himself, a man devoted to sourcing the world’s best wines and choosing the right one to pour into your glass at the right moment. Plan a drink here before dinner.

Origin Earth Cheese is one of my most beloved producers in Hawke’s Bay, found either at the farmers’ market or at their “cellar door” next to Te Mata Winery. The cheeses are made from fresh, non-homogenised milk and you can taste the difference. Speaking of markets, the Otago Farmers Market at Dunedin Railway Station is a real experience: chew through a banh mi as you browse dozens of stalls heaped with seasonal produce.

Last I heard the Pyramid Valley winery cellar door was set to re-open, but it’s a bit off the trail so do call ahead to make sure someone is there to let you in. It’ll be worth the detour — in my opinion they make some of the finest pinot noir and chardonnay in New Zealand. Meanwhile, it can be hard to find an after-dinner drink in Havelock North but Piku’s alleyway bar is the perfect spot for a Negroni (and a Japanese snack if you’re still hungry).

Great restaurants inside hotels sometimes feel more like an overseas thing, but QT Wellington’s Hippopotamus and Hot Sauce break the mould. Post-Covid, Hippopotamus is operating as a takeaway wine cellar but will no doubt be back to full

strength soon, while Hot Sauce serves brilliant Asian fusion food and is always among the medals in the annual Welly on a Plate burger contest.

Two of my favourite R’s are in Wellington — the fantastically simple Ramen Shop in Newtown and Te Aro’s Rita, which is as good as restaurants get in New Zealand (and is right up there internationally, too). When in Queenstown give your body a break from restaurant eating for a day or two and get some provisions at the Remarkables Market, a charming and well-stocked farmers’ market running every Saturday from spring to autumn.

Tucked into an alleyway, Shepherd is the flagship restaurant of Shepherd Elliot, an essential Wellington personality whose progressive and sustainable approach to food is all the more enjoyable because it tastes so good as well.

In Arrowtown Slow Cuts is the home of beautiful meat cooked low and slow by the incredible team behind La Rumbla tapas bar.

Neither a cellar door nor a brewery, Hawke’s Bay’s Three Wise Birds Garden Bar is a great chance to taste the third type of ferment — cider — fresh from the tap, in the heart of pipfruit country. There is plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, plus great food to nosh on while you make your way through your tasting paddle.

A great totem for Christchurch’s hospo rebuild, the stylishly modern cafe Unknown Chapter provides slick service and top food along with great coffee in an unexpectedly foodie part of town (there’s a fantastic international food court just across the road).

Veggie Guy Bobbie isn’t the only reason to visit Christchurch’s new Riverside Market but he is the only reason beginning with the letter V. Grab some of the fresh local produce or linger at one of the many other great dining options nearby (they all buy their veges from him too).

This upmarket dining hall has been

expertly curated — you could buy every meal here for a week and not run into a single dud.

I preferred the traditional Post Office Square Farmers’ Market to Kerikeri’s more recent market in the Old Packhouse.

But the new one has one great thing going for it — some of the best Americanstyle barbecue I’ve tasted in New Zealand. Ask someone to point you toward Wingless Angel, order a mix of meats (but make sure they include brisket). If you’re on a night out in Hamilton, walk past the strip of student pubs and head to Wonderhorse, a cocktail bar that would stand toe to toe with anything on Ponsonby Rd. XCHC is a seriously cool collaborative space that does great coffee and simple, tasty food. Suburban and progressive with a load of x-factor, this is the face of post-quake Christchurch and a perfect caffeine stop for visitors on the way from the city to Sumner and beyond.

Slightly outside the brief but worth looking out for on restaurant menus across New Zealand is Yellow Brick Road, a new approach to seafood, operated by former Wellington celeb chef Martin Bosley. At 4.30pm each day he texts the day’s catch to chefs around the country, who text back their order which arrives in time for service the next day — always fresh, always sustainable, and often a fish species or variety of shellfish you won’t have come across before.

The OGs of Greek-style cheeses in New Zealand, Zany Zeus stock their traditional style feta and haloumi in every gourmet food store that matters, but also operate a store in Lower Hutt that every cheese lover should make a pilgrimage to at least once in their life. And if you’re on the Taupo-Napier road look out for Zeelandt craft brewery before you hit Esk Valley — it’s open business hours, with some flexibility.

20 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

travel

travel

Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 21

GO NZ: Pubs

»

& HISTORY HOPS

Whangamomona Hotel, Taranaki This Taranaki hotel on the Forgotten World Highway lauds itself as the most remote country hotel in New Zealand.

The hotel was actually used as a hospital during the 1918 Spanish influenza pandemic. The current hotel is the second built on the site, after the first burnt down in 1911. The kitchen coal range was the only thing that survived the fire, and the new hotel was built around it. whangamomonahotel.co.nz

Their tales are varied and long, and get longer with each telling, writes Juliette Sivertsen

I

f you ask which pub is the oldest in New Zealand, be prepared for a hotly contested debate on the matter. There are several that like to claim this title, depending on how you define “oldest pub”. Is it the date of the building? Or the date of its first liquor licence? Has it been a continuous pub throughout history or was there a break? Is it a pub, a tavern or a hotel?

We’re not here to judge what defines the oldest pub in New Zealand, but here are a few with some pretty good claims to fame.

Moutere Inn, Upper Moutere Set in the fertile Moutere Valley, the Moutere Inn is considered the heart of the village and proudly states it’s the oldest pub in New Zealand, dating back to 1850. These days, the establishment offers a variety of craft beers on tap and sources all its wines within 10km of the premises. moutereinn.co.nz The Duke, Russell The Duke of Marlborough Hotel in Russell began in 1827 as “Johnny Johnston’s Grog Shop”,

named after its ex-convict owner.

Originally frequented by whalers, traders and prostitutes, the establishment was renamed the Duke of Marlborough, and gained its first licence in 1840 after the Treaty of Waitangi was signed. That makes it the first legal pub in New Zealand.

Today, the menu showcases locally sourced seasonal produce and has more than 100 wines and 30 beers to choose from. theduke.co.nz Horeke Hotel, Hokianga The Horeke Hotel also claims to be the oldest surviving pub in New Zealand, with a history dating back to 1833, even though it wasn’t legally licensed back then.

Situated on the waterfront of Hokianga Harbour, it originally served the shipbuilders working in the area. It’s now a fully licensed restaurant and bar with accommodation, including a “house over the water”, which was built in 1923. horekehotel.nz

From top: The Whangamomona Hotel; The Duke of Marlborough; the Thistle Inn. Photos / Supplied; Peter de Graaf

The Thistle Inn, Wellington The Thistle Inn claims to have received the second liquor licence ever issued in New Zealand. Its original incarnation as a tavern dates back to 1840, however it was destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1866. It’s now a Category One historic building.

The Thistle Inn has had many a famous character stay during its history, including regular visits by Katherine Mansfield, and one of the meeting rooms is named after her. A poem by Mansfield now hangs on the wall. thistleinn.co.nz

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22 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Pubs

»

OFF

PISTE

T

here must be a roaring fire. A cosy wooden interior. Good beers on tap. A place to mingle and a place to dance.

And ski jackets must be acceptable attire.

Every skier and snowboarder needs a reliable watering hole in which to unwind after a day on the slopes. In the major ski resort towns overseas, villages buzz with the apres-ski nightlife and hip bars with fancy themed cocktails. But sometimes you just

need somewhere to chill with a beer while still rocking your oversized ski gears, rather than getting dressed up. And that’s the kind of apres-ski scene New Zealand does best.

I’ll always remember my first trip to The Powderkeg bar, an institution in Ohakune, because I was tremendously overdressed for the crowd.

I was new to skiing and new to the apresski concept. I’d only ever seen the glitzy pictures on Instagram of gorgeous European women dressed to the nines in their designer

Dining with a view. it’s in our natuRe.

PLAN YOUR TRIP AT BAYOFPLENTYNZ.COM Flat White Café, Waihī Beach

Photo / Getty Images

The good old faithful ski pub always holds the best apres-ski memories, writes Juliette Sivertsen

travel

snow outfits sipping on expensive bubbly, throwing their heads back with laughter, barely a hair out of place. How do they look so gorgeous after a day on the slopes? Did they not do any actual skiing?

I wore a jacket not suitable for the freezing temperatures outside but I thought it looked cute, and a full face of makeup, mostly to cover up the blotchy redness from a day spent exercising outside in the freezing temperatures.

But it was my shoes that gave the game away that I wasn’t from ‘round there — some little booties that would have been fine for a night out in Auckland, but offered zero warmth or protection in the cold. My poor little tootsies were like blocks of ice as I spent the night clinging to the stones around the fire in the middle of the bar.

Never again. From that day forward my standard apres-ski outfit has been my ski jacket, lace-up Sorel snow boots over thermal pants, with the exception of a slightly nicer top during a winter music festival. But that’s the beauty of the iconic ski pub. It’s a relaxed environment where you’re free to be you and wear whatever you want.

The Powderkeg has been around since 1989 and is part of many a skier or snowboarder’s Ruapehu memories. I’ve had birthday celebrations there, met old friends and new friends, late nights, early nights, pool nights, memorable nights, barely-remembered nights.

The inside is always toasty, the beer flows freely and food is nourishing and warming — especially the late-night chips or wedges before hometime.

It’s always the place I end up at after a day on the Tūroa slopes, and — unlike my experience at some bars — not once have I ever regretted a night there.

Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 23

The Powderhorn Chateau and, below, the Cardrona Hotel.

Five more iconic apres-ski institutions Chateau Tongariro If you’re skiing on the Whakapapa side of Mt Ruapehu, the Chateau Tongariro is a stately establishment steeped in history — and even has a few ghost stories to throw into the mix. Located in the heart of the Tongariro National Park, the best place to relax is in the hotel’s Ruapehu Lounge on their velvet lounge suites under dramatic chandeliers, next to the log fire.

Tūroa Lodge If you can’t be bothered contending with the influx of visitors to Ohakune, then Tūroa Lodge is where the locals hang out. There’s frequent live music and gigs, and always a questionable themed event like a wet T-shirt or jelly wrestling contest somewhere in the winter lineup.

Cardrona Hotel The Cardrona Hotel is about as iconic as Kiwi ski pubs can get.

Located on the Crown Road Range between Wānaka and Queenstown, the historic building from 1863 is one of the oldest hotels in New Zealand, and proudly rumoured to be the most

photographed building in the country, according to the hotel.

Gold-rush charm, legendary atmosphere.

Blue Pub, Methven You can’t miss the Blue Pub in Methven, because it’s a bright blue pub in the middle of the village.

It’s right opposite the Brown Pub (guess the colour). Think classic New Zealand country pub.

Wooden floors, wooden barstools, a welcoming bar as you walk in — all the key ingredients.

The Cow, Queenstown The Cow has been around for more than 40 years and has a history of hosting wild apres-ski parties and events through the decades. In a previous life, the stone barn once housed cows, which used to be brought down Cow Lane to be milked during the gold-rush era.

Now it’s is a cosy bar for locals and visitors. Little has changed since it opened its doors in the late 1970s — in fact the menu remains exactly the same as opening night.

For holiday ideas, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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24 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Craft Beer

»

HOP TO IT Winter festivals are postponed, so instead head to these mustvisit craft beer bars and breweries, writes Brett Atkinson

W

inter in New Zealand is traditionally the time for two of the country’s best craft beer festivals, but unfortunately Wellington’s Beervana has been moved to November, and the GABS festival in Auckland has this year been cancelled. Instead, get your fix of interesting and innovative brews by visiting the best pubs and taprooms in and around our biggest cities.

AUCKLAND Wood-fired pizza partners with McLeods’ awardwinning brews at the Pizza Barn in Waipū’s former post office. Ask about their latest 802 beer, an ongoing series of fresh hazy brews harnessing different hop varieties. Further south in Matakana, 8 Wired’s Barrelworks specialises in sour and barrel-aged beers, and food trucks drop by most weekends.

Food trucks — including Lucky Taco and Misora Ramen — regularly team with beers from Urbanaut and Yeastie Boys at Urbanaut’s Kingsland brewery, while other nearby venues along the Auckland Beer Mile include The Beer Spot, the Auckland taproom of Wellington’s Garage Project, and Galbraith’s Alehouse. Try their British-influenced ales and definitely book ahead for Galbraith’s popular Sunday roast.

At the city end of Dominion Rd, Churly’s Brew

Pub & Eatery is scheduled to open around midJuly, its housemade charcuterie partnering with big and bold beers from Behemoth Brewing.

Settle into an Auckland winter with Behemoth’s smooth Good Morning Vietnam imperial stout, made with Vietnamese coffee. Elsewhere in Auckland, Epic’s Onehunga taproom is open on Friday and Saturday afternoons; one of the country’s pioneering craft breweries also partnering with local food trucks. Across on Waiheke Island, Alibi Brewing Company combines seasonal brews and vineyard views at Tantalus Estate.

HAMILTON There are Good George brewpubs around the Waikato region now — and also harbourside at Mission Bay and Wynyard Quarter in Auckland — but their original Hamilton location in Frankton’s historic See nzaletrail.com Church of St George is still the best. for more information on More world-famous-in-theNZ’s regional brewing scenes, Waikato beers are poured at and contact brewbus.co.nz Brewaucracy’s taproom north of for hop-fuelled excursions the city in Te Rapa — try the where someone else does the Inappropriate Wit witbier — and driving. the best bar in town on Hood St’s after-dark strip is Craft. Open the unmarked door at nearby Wonder Horse for more crafty surprises.

Book Online use Code WINTER2020 to unlock discounts, STAY 3 PAY 2

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 25

WELLINGTON Rightly regarded as one of the world’s best beer cities, the nation’s capital combines some of NZ’s trailblazing craft breweries with more recently established neighbourhood brewpubs. Begin northeast of the city at Brewtown in Upper Hutt where Panhead, Boneface, Te Aro Brewing and Kereru all have adjacent taprooms. North of the city in Paraparaumu, Tuatara and Duncan’s Brewing both have cellar doors — while further north on the Kapiti Coast, the Salt & Wood Collective showcases local beers from North End Brewery.

Back in the city, there are always interesting brews on the 40 taps at Fork & Brewer, with maestro Kelly Ryan continually tinkering with new hops, yeasts and brewing styles. Even more innovative are the beers from Garage Project in Te Aro. Fans of brewing’s more experimental trends should seek out GP’s barrel-aged sour beers and wild-fermented Wild Workshop brews.

Reflecting trends in popular beer destinations such as Portland, Oregon, Wellington’s new band of neighbourhood-focused breweries include Heyday Beer Co, Fortune Favours and Choice Bros at Husk Bar & Eatery. A final essential Wellington beer destination is Parrotdog’s taproom south of the city at Lyall Bay. New Zealand has excellent, innovative craft beer options at pubs, tap rooms and breweries; Left: Clayton and Geoff Gwynne of McLeod's Brewery, Waipū. Photos / Evan Dvorkin; John Stone

CHRISTCHURCH There’s more craft beer and wood-fired pizza wizardry at Cassels & Sons Brewing amid the heritage vibe of The Tannery in Woolston — their warming,winter-friendly Milk Stout was judged the world’s best in 2019 — while Pomeroy’s Old

Brewery Inn is a contender for the city’s cosiest drinking spot. Keep an eye out for local brews from the Beer Baroness. The city’s pre-earthquake heritage echoes at The Laboratory in Lincoln, where beers with quirky scientific names are served among salvaged and repurposed building materials from the central city’s laneways.

QUEENSTOWN & WANAKA Adventure sports followed by beer is a triedand-true combination, and brewers such as Searchlight, Altitude, Cargo and Canyon are maintaining the tasty tradition around Queenstown. Try to visit from Friday to Sunday for the best opening hours.

Nearby in Arrowtown, Lake & Wood Brew Co’s beers are available to partner great burgers and grilled chicken at Slow Cuts.

Across the Crown Range in Wanaka, Rhyme & Reason, Ground Up and Wanaka Beerworks are all helping to make the Southern Lakes region one of New Zealand’s most surprising beer destinations.

Dunedin Brewing history abounds in Dunedin, and Emersons first beers were crafted back in 1992.

Humble beginnings have evolved to include their sprawling and modern taproom and cellar door, a good place to try seasonal and experimental brews not available throughout the country.

For the latest chapter in Dunedin’s brewing history, visit New New New for small-batch brews and Asian street food from the adjacent Yum Cat eatery.

It’s a foodie’s paradise in the Waikato, with microbreweries, boutique coffee roasters, artisan dairy producers, New Zealand’s only tea plantation, gourmet eatries and award-winning restaurants all calling the region home.

Visit waikatonz.com

travel

26 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Local Knowledge

»

INSIDER ITINERARIES Taking a weekend city break in one of New Zealand’s exciting urban centres? Our local experts have your eating and drinking needs covered . . .

24 hours in Wellington with Beth Brash, Programme Manager at Visa Wellington On a Plate Breakfast: Everyone can do scrambled eggs at home, but none to the perfection of Floriditas, which makes it worth the wait for a table at the weekend. She’s 14 years old and stewardship of this gem has recently changed from hospo royalty Julie and James to Hayden and Dom (ex Etta, Melbourne) who are staying true to Flo’s roots of perfect simplicity, but taking it to fresh and exciting new places.

Coffee: Swimsuit. It’s a bold move to open another coffee shop in Wellington, but why not when you can do For more on it better than the rest. Fantastic Wellington coffee, best decaf I’ve ever had, but on a Plate, the heart is all in the detail. They see p30-p31 remember your name, choose from not one but three cheese scones, and Taite, the owner, is a wonderful guy.

For me this sums up true hospitality.

Long lunch: Great India. Sunday long lunches are my favourite, so if you’re looking for a religious experience this one delivers. Take that pinot you’ve been saving up — curry is the perfect match — and take your time, the food is bountiful and flavourful. Rakesh and Mitesh grew up in this restaurant, so great hospitality is in their blood and the service is some of the best in town.

Rakesh should record a podcast talking through the menu, it’s basically a guided meditation.

Dinner: Mason is the new kid on the block. One of my first meals out of lockdown and it felt like a holiday, possibly because it was the furthest I’d travelled for a while to eat (across town) but it also channels the vibes of neighbourhood restaurants common in Sydney, London or New York. Dig in with your hands. Middle Easternish eats; lots of pita bread, falafels, hummus, pickles, and a well-curated natural wine list.

Drinks: Puffin. I’d walk miles for this place if I didn’t have the convenience of living right above it. Hidden down the back of (what is

currently) a construction site, it’s a diamond in the literal rubble. Plush velvet emerald booths are the perfect place to unwind, and knowledgeable staff will help work your way through the wine list with ease and not a sniff of pretentiousness. You’ll come away with a new favourite style and it will be the most fun learning experience you’ve had in a long time.

24 Hours in Dunedin with Steph Sykes, sales and marketing manager at OCHO chocolate Breakfast: The Nordic influenced ADJO is near the Botanic Gardens — it’s small but perfectly formed. Serving steaming bowls of porridge topped with homemade caramel, delicious Danish pastries and locally roasted KUKU coffee — it’s a great spot to start your day.

Coffee: Vanguard on Princes St really know coffee, whether it’s a flat white on the run or one of their single-origin brews sourced directly from farmers, it is the perfect spot to stop and recharge and it’s right in the middle of the street-art trail.

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 27

Long Lunch: It’s hard to go passed The Esplanade in St Clair for a long lunch. It’s a bustling little spot to relax in and watch the day go by, with views of the Pacific Ocean, and wood-fired pizza and homemade pasta.

Dinner: Moiety, located in the historic warehouse precinct, is a special spot for dinner. The delicious menu focuses on locally sourced produce and each visit leaves us wanting more.

Another favourite just around the corner is Good Good — sometimes you just can’t go past a burger and a beer.

Drinks: Dunedin does drinks pretty well, picking just one spot is tricky. So, if you’re a fan of craft beer, head out to Arc brewery at Blueskin Bay. For wine you can’t go past, URBN VINO — they make wine right here in the city and if cocktails are your thing pop, into the new bar Mr Fox, in the Octagon.

24 hours in Rotorua with David Blackmore, general manager of Waimangu Volcanic Valley Breakfast: Ōkere Falls Store does a super eggs bene — it’s worth throwing in the bacon or salmon for an extra tasty start to the day — and their range of smoothies is famous (plum being my current favourite). It’s well worth the short drive and a wander around to see the falls themselves.

Coffee: Revolver Espresso is a locals’ favourite and the only independent coffee roaster in Rotorua.

Long lunch: Waimangu Local Store and Cafe is just south of Rotorua. Waimangu is the home of the Pink and White Terraces with hiking and boat cruises in the world’s youngest geothermal valley to work up an appetite. They offer a newly relaunched store and cafe with freshly made pizzas (share a half-metre pizza as a group) and gourmet sandwiches, as well as tasty snacks and locally sourced foodie items to take away and enjoy later.

Dinner: You can’t go wrong with Terrace Kitchen (get the slow-roasted lamb shoulder if it’s available, although the entire menu is really good) or Atticus Finch for delicious sharing plates. Both are in or around the central Eat Streat dining precinct.

Drinks: Brew Bar is a good choice as it features local Croucher beer — I like the tasting-tray option as a nice way to sample a wider range. I’d also recommend Volcanic Hills Tasting Room (locally made wine with a stunning view over Lake Rotorua).

For cocktails, The Regent and upstairs at Terrace Kitchen are winners, and a G&T at Ponsonby Road Lounge Bar is always worthwhile.

24 Hours in New Plymouth with Terry Parkes, owner of The Nice Hotel Breakfast: Sit down with the locals at the very funky, 1950s themed Federal Store. Enjoy their signature coffee blend, The Fed, alongside a

Mason, Wellington (top), is regarded as a restaurant masquerading as a bar; New Plymouth’s Federal Store does a beaut breakfast.

Photos / Johnny Huynen, Supplied

breakfast of smashed avocado, huevos rancheros or a Federal benedict.

Coffee: The newly opened Bleached Coffee & Company is only a minute’s walk from the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery/Len Lye Centre and is ideal for grabbing your morning coffee.

Long Lunch: A meal is made all the better with sea views and I recommend Arborio Restaurant, Cafe & Terrace Bar. It is in the prime spot, at New Plymouth’s museum, Puke Ariki, opposite the Coastal Walkway and Len Lye Wind Wand.

Enjoy delicious meals from pizza and pasta to salads and burgers, the warm service and welcoming decor.

Dinner: Let me welcome you to the luxury of fine dining at Nice Hotel & Lobby bar. Nice Hotel is a 4-star hotel and the meals are reflective of this rating with the dining area elegant and intimate and an outdoor fire adding to the ambience.

Drinks: My favourite place to end the day is at The Hour Glass in the heart of the CBD. They specialise in craft beer, quality wine, classic cocktails and delicious tapas and, with its cosy atmosphere and outdoor dining option, is an ideal place to catch up and unwind.

24 hours in Taupō with Michelle Caldwell, GM sales and marketing for mtruapehu.com Breakfast: L’arte is an art lover’s oasis tucked away in Acacia Bay. The mosaic garden takes

you to a magical place and will definitely feature in your Instagram stories. Try the corn fritters or creamy mushrooms and make sure you walk up to the art studio for a look after you’ve had breakfast.

Coffee: Cafe Baku serves amazing Allpress coffee and you get a great view over the lake as a bonus. Plus they have the most incredible range of cakes and slices in their cabinet (also a good selection for GF, paleo, vegan etc) if you feel like something sweet to go with your coffee. And the cheese scones are famous in Taupō.

Long lunch: Vine Eatery & Bar is our regular go-to. It offers a sophisticated vibe, great service and a menu to suit everyone — you can choose to share from their tapas menu or enjoy your own meal from the a la carte menu. The cocktails are great, the wine list extensive and you can grab a craft beer or whiskey from their huge range.

Dinner: The Bistro is an awesome family-owned restaurant offering delicious meals at reasonable prices. Jude is an award-winning chef and is absolutely passionate about great service and good produce — and you can see that in his meals.

You must try the pork belly.

Drinks: For drinks with a view, you can’t go past the Two Mile Bay Sailing Centre. It has a very casual vibe as it’s right on the water, so you can literally walk from the lake into the bar for an ice-cold drink. If you’ve worked up an appetite, the wood-fired pizzas are pretty sensational too.

Continued on p28

travel

28 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Local Knowledge

»

INSIDER ITINERARIES Continued from p27 24 hours in Auckland with Stephanie Holmes, NZ Herald Travel Editor Breakfast: Al Brown’s Federal Delicatessen is as close as you can get to being in New York without leaving downtown Auckland. Go for the bottomless coffee, a Jewish diner-style menu, and friendly staff in retro uniforms. Then come back later for cocktails and desserts.

Coffee: Elk on Graham St not only serves perfectly made Atomic coffee, it’s also about 10 steps across the road from my work, so is really convenient. But it’s not just a stop for frazzled office workers, the staff are super friendly and the cabinet food is delicious. The cheese and Marmite scones have saved my life on deadline day, on a number of occasions.

Long lunch: A long lunch needs to come with an epic view, so I recommend Soul at the Viaduct.

It’s become an Auckland institution since open-

Arrowtown's Blue Door bar (top); Akarua Wines (inset).

Photos / isabellarubiephotography; Emma Jones

ing in 2001, but the menu is constantly evolving, and you’ll never tire of the views. Or, if you’ve got a bit more time on your hands, head across the water to Waiheke, where pretty much every single establishment has a view to covet.

Dinner: Culprit is a hidden gem on Wyndham St, up a flight of stairs which you could easily miss if you didn’t know what to look for. The food is imaginative, fun and always delicious.

Drinks: My current favourite is Ambler cafe and bistro, which is just up the road from home in Pt Chev. The cocktails are excellent, the wine list varied but not overwhelming and it’s the kind of place you’ll meet neighbourhood friends for a quiet late-afternoon wine, and end up staying for dinner.

24 hours in Queenstown with Hayley Scott, GM of food and beverage and marketing at Sherwood hotel Breakfast: Bespoke Kitchen offers lots of

plant-based options and really seasonal dishes.

Don’t miss the chia-based pudding or porridge if they are on the menu — a perfect start for chilly Queenstown mornings.

Coffee: The Boat Shed Cafe & Bistro is great.

Jimmy has just taken over and I know they got an absolute pounding during lockdown — personally, I was desperate for my coffee. It’s right on the lake, so it’s beautiful as well.

Long lunch: For a day out with girlfriends, it has to be Akarua Winery, between Queenstown and Arrowtown. Local couple Deb and John from Artisan Catering look after the food and do the most amazing platters and grazing plates, which are perfect to share over a glass or two.

Dinner: My last amazing dinner out was at Aosta in Arrowtown, which is Ben Bayly’s restaurant down here. It’s all about the handmade pasta. It’s the kind of place where you feel confident to try something a little different because you know it’s going to be really great.

Plus, the service is awesome.

Drinks: For a night out, it has to be Blue Door, tucked down the lane behind Aosta. If you are lucky to get in, they often have live music and DJs. And, of course, we are spoilt for choice

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 29

when it comes to cellar doors down here, but I have to give a special mention to Mt Edward and their organic wines.

24 hours in Mount Maunganui and Tauranga with Ian White, owner of Polar Dessert Bar Breakfast: If you’re looking for a breakfast with a view of the hustle and bustle of city life, then a seat at Tauranga’s Elizabeth Cafe and Larder should be just the ticket. Try the keto waffles or eggs bene.

Coffee: Head just down the road and the coffee (and the pastries) at Love Rosie are delicious.

Long lunch: Why not take a drive out to Papamoa Beach to Pearl Kitchen. It might not be not an obvious choice, but it’s definitely a hidden gem . . . and if you stick around long enough on a Friday and Saturday night, their pizza is also an absolute must.

Dinner: If it’s a special occasion, or you’re after fine dining, you won’t be disappointed by Clarence Bistro with its beautiful Art-Deco setting and stunning old building (post house) conversion. Or, you could finish the day in the vibrant Main St of Mount Maunganui with authentic Vietnamese at Rice Rice Baby or more tra-

ditional family dining at Zeytins Mediterranean, followed by absolutely the best desserts in town at Polar Bar, with our famous cold plate icecream and sweet waffles (but I would say that).

Drinks: Head to Our Place, an innovative urban space in the heart of the Tauranga CBD with a vibrant, energetic backdrop of street food, cafes and bars, which combines music, arts and fashion all under one roof in modern cool containers with large open public spaces, creating a real community hub. There are more than 40 craft and tap beers at High Tide if brews are your thing, then, just a stone’s throw away, is Wharf St, where you can find an enthusiastic welcome at The Hop House.

24 hours in Christchurch with Anton Matthews, owner of Fush and Joe’s Garage Wigram Breakfast: Everyday starts at Joe’s Wigram for me with a handful of long blacks and brekkie.

No bookings, it’s relaxed, it’s local and everyone knows your name.

Coffee: If Jess and I need to get away from work and have a coffee date alone, we normally head

FINALIST, NZ CELLAR DOOR OF THE YEAR 2019

Arc Brewing in Dunedin.

Photo / Supplied

down the road to Addington Coffee Co-op. It’s always buzzing and they make a long black just the way I like it, not too long.

Long lunch: I don’t know if it’s because I’m not cool enough or because I don’t have time for a long lunch, but I’ve certainly got a few go-to spots for just regular lunch. Depending on how I’m feeling, a dozen dumplings from Pot Sticker always hits the spot, a spicy miso ramen from Samurai Bowl near South City is a fave or an acai bowl from Park Ranger in Riccarton.

Dinner: I might be biased, but I can’t go past Fush for dinner. Real kiwi fish and chips, fried chicken, milkshakes, broccoli bowls and burgers is my kind of kai. It’s cool, it’s relaxed and the manaakitanga (hospitality) is always front and centre. I’m biased, of course, but I built it that way.

Drinks: To be honest, it’s rare that I go out for drinks these days. I’d rather grab a decent bottle of bubbles and a bag of salt and vinegar chips and head up the Port Hills for the view. But if I’m looking for a post-dinner treat, it has to be a couple of scoops from Rollickin Gelato on New Regent St. Every flavour is good and my kids love it too.

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travel

30 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Festivals

»

Access one of New Zealand’s most remote fiords and its bountiful kaimoana on a Fiordland Seafood Adventure.

Photo / Phillip Puckey

Moveable feasts Plan a weekend away with these exciting food, wine and beer events happening across New Zealand in 2020, writes Johanna Thornton Wallingford Truffle Weekends in Hawke’s Bay, June 19-21 and 26-28 Luxury retreat Wallingford Homestead in Central Hawke’s Bay offers memorable weekend stays and unique food experiences. One of New Zealand’s oldest

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Seriously Good Food Show in Mount Maunganui, Sep 5-6 The Seriously Good Food Show at Tauranga’s Trustpower Baypark Arena brings together artisanal food and beverage makers from all over New Zealand for a weekend celebration of food, craft beer, wine and liquor. Visitors can expect to see Food Show favourites Rik’s Belgium Truffles, Kapiti Artisan Bakehouse and Olives on the Hill, as well as new exhibitors The Remarkable Chocolate Co, Uncle Dunkle’s Chilli Sauces and The Red Kitchen. The Landing Food Truck Hub will be back, and a live cooking theatre line-up is in the works.

Managing director of Bay Events Dana McCurdy says she’s looking forward to bringing back the festival for its eighth year.

“We love bringing together regional and national food businesses and we encourage the people of Tauranga to support them after what has been a deeply challenging time.” seriouslygoodfoodshow.co.nz Wellington On a Plate, Oct 1-31 This long-running annual festival is a highlight of the food calendar that sets the city alight with events, collabs, special menus and custom cocktails, food-themed exhibitions and “everything in between”.

The festival will have about 150 still-to-be confirmed events and hundreds of specially created dishes that highlight the region’s ingredients, producers and suppliers. Like last year’s festival, the programme will centre around Dine Wellington (Oct 1-11), which sees restaurants create special festival menus to tempt diners and compete for the best main course of the festival — a high honour.

Burger Wellington runs from Oct 12-31, presented by Garage Project, which sees eateries compete to create the ultimate burger with inventive flavour combinations. The remaining festival events will be confirmed on August 24 when the festival programme launches online, with pre-sale tickets available from August 31.

Festival director Sarah Meikle says in the absence of international chefs, the focus will rightly be on community collaboration and celebrating Wellington’s culinary talent, of which there is plenty. woap.com First Light Wine & Food in Gisborne, October 25 Kicking off the summer festival season is Gisborne’s pre-eminent wine event, the First Light Wine & Food Festival. Held on the Sunday of Labour Weekend, the event opens the gates to local wineries TW Wines, Matawhero Wines and Bridge Estate, for a day of live music, great wines and delicious food.

While the beautiful Tairāwhiti region is known for chardonnay, the festival shines a light on Gisborne’s 14 other varietals, including rosé, merlot, albarino, chenin blanc, pinot gris, gewurztraminer, malbec and sauvignon blanc.

Local food outlets Smokehouse Cuisine, Flag-

ship Cafe and Reka Cuisine will be serving snacks at each vineyard. The event includes a bus service to shuttle festivalgoers between vineyards. firstlightwineandfood.co.nz; tickets on eventfinda.co.nz Christchurch Vegan Expo, November 8 Organisers call it “the Big Day Out of vegan food festivals”, with food, music and cooking demos for a fun and inspiring look at plant-based living. Whereas the Big Day Out music festival had its last hurrah in 2014, the Vegan Expo has gone from strength to strength since its launch in 2007, as the popularity of plantbased food continues to increase.

Visitors can expect to sample plant-based food, watch cooking demos, listen to talks, discover vegan living tips, and shop cruelty-free. The Expo will be held at the University of Canterbury, with a Kapiti equivalent planned for 2021. veganexpo.co.nz Toast Martinborough, November 15 Centred on the boutique wine village of Martinborough in South Wairarapa, Toast Martinborough brings together a collection of the country’s premiere vineyards including Te Ata Rangi, Palliser Estate and Escarpment (subject to change) for a day of wine, food and music.

Toast is a unique one-day, multi-site event, with eight to 10 participating vineyards (still to be confirmed) opening their cellar doors.

Ticket holders can select which vineyards they’d like to tour (or attempt to fit them all in), and take a shuttle or walk between venues. It’s advisable to book accommodation early and make a weekend of it, as the town fills up quickly. toastmartinborough.co.nz

From top left: A Wallingford Truffle Weekend in Hawke's Bay is a hot ticket; the First Light Wine & Food festival kicks off summer in Gisborne; Wellington On a Plate takes place throughout October; get a taste of 60 to 65 local breweries at Beervana.

Photos / Jenny Siaosi; Jeff McEwan, Capture Photography; Supplied

Beervana Wellington, November 20-21 Beer lovers rejoice — Beervana is back for 2020. One of New Zealand’s biggest and most anticipated annual celebrations of craft beer, Beervana is held over two days at Sky Stadium.

Last year there were 71 international and local breweries exhibiting, an exciting mix that saw the festival win Wellington Event of the Year in the annual SOBA awards. Things will be a little different this year with the absence of international breweries, but 60 to 65 local breweries are more than capable of doing the heavy lifting, showcasing hundreds of craft beers. Beervana has brews to excite all tastes, from beer aficionados to the beer-curious, as well as spectacular food and entertainment. beervana.co.nz Fiordland Seafood Adventure, December 7-10 This unique food experience offers access to one of New Zealand’s most remote fiords and its bountiful kaimoana. Explore Fiordland’s Dusky Sound aboard 27m expedition vessel Flightless over four days, gathering fresh seafood, and learning how to treat it, prepare it and cook it respectfully — and deliciously.

Organised by adventure charter boat company Pure Salt, the trip centres around an exploration of seafood, but there’s also time for kayaking, scuba diving, fishing, paddleboarding, free diving, shore excursions, and relaxing in the hot tub. All meals are provided and helicopter flights from Te Anau are included. Pure Salt is still finalising the details, but past excursions have seen chefs Fleur Sullivan and Michael Van de Elzen join the tour to guide and cook, as well as teachers and students from Otago Polytechnic.

Tickets on eventfinda.co.nz

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travel

32 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: World Food

»

KEEP ON TRUCKING

We can’t travel to other countries but world flavours are on Aucklanders’ doorsteps, writes Megan Wood

A

fter weeks of lockdown, and international travel still off the table, food is the obvious way to explore the world. And so, I recently began a bountiful, food-centric tour around the streets of Auckland and (just) beyond. Eating my way around the globe, I wanted to explore, to try incredible street food and to enjoy just a little bite of those incredible, delicious faraway places.

From Vietnam to Argentina, Italy to Sri Lanka, this is just a taste of what I found.

ISRAEL Carmel Israeli Street Food Carmel Davidovitch was missing the street food of Israel after moving back to New Zealand where she was born, especially the pita bread. A baker by trade, Carmel decided the solution was to make her own. Now, with husband Tom, she runs a food truck serving up soft, fluffy pita bread filled

LynnMall). Open 8am-6pm every day.

with falafel, fresh, seasonal salads and more. Of their food, Carmel says: “We want to create a culinary adventure for people, without them having to travel too far.”

Find it: On select Saturdays at 340 Point Chevalier Rd, from 4.30pm. For upcoming dates see facebook.com/carmelisraelistreetfood

CANADA The Poutine Machine After finishing a PhD in cognitive psychology, Canadian Nathan Ryckman decided to open a food truck. “I didn’t want to stay in academia,” he says, “and I have always wanted to do something with food.” After perfecting his gravy, based on that of the classic diners of Montreal, Nathan opened Poutine Machine in January this year, serving classic Canadian poutine — fries smothered in gravy and curds — with a rotating menu of special toppings. Vegan options are also available and the poutine is gluten-free.

Find it: all over Auckland. More at facebook. com/poutinenz

VIETNAM Banh Mi Delight Perched outside Lynn Mall, Banh Mi Delight is everything a banh mi truck should be: unpretentious, affordable and delicious. The lovely woman making our banh mi smeared a roll with traditional pate as she told me the truck had been open for just over a year, then she layered my choice of meat and added cucumber, pickled carrot and the obligatory chilli and coriander.

It had the just-right flavour of a banh mi, hard to pin down, but you know when it is missing.

Find it: 3058 Great North Rd, New Lynn (outside

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New Zealand Tours • Phone 0800 309 196 • www.nztours.nz • steve@nztours.nz

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 33

Clockwise, from top left: Amarant Pasta & Cucina; Sabores Empanadas; The Poutine Machine; Miam Miam French hotdogs; Banh Mi Delight. Facing page: Carmel Israeli Street Food. Photos / Supplied

truck thing while honeymooning in LA. “We then decided to move to Mexico for two months and really live the food,” Sarah says. They launched The Lucky Taco in 2013. These days, they’re known for their handmade tortillas and authentic fillings. “We even did lamb’s brains for a while,” recalls Sarah, “we don’t do that anymore but we still do a beef tongue taco, it is one of our most popular.” The Lucky Taco has since launched a retail arm selling hot sauces, chilli salts and taco kits.

Find it: at Urbanaut Brewery Co, 597 New North Rd, Kingsland, on June 21, June 27, and July 5, 12pm-4pm. facebook.com/theluckytaconz and theluckytaco.co.nz FRANCE Miam Miam Sebastian Paree, of Miam Miam, has his kids to thank for giving him the inspiration for his sausage business. “My kids were complaining that they couldn’t get the taste of real French sausages here in New Zealand and told me I should try to make some. So I did.” The sausages were a hit, his kids declaring them to be “miam miam” which translates to “yum yum”. It gave him an idea: what if he used his sausages to make French hot dogs? Paree teamed up with a French baker to make the perfect baguette and now Miam

Miam hot dogs and sausages are going strong.

Find it: at Coatesville Market on August 2. More at facebook.com/miammiamsausage ARGENTINA Sabores Empanadas In Argentina, Ana and Reinaldo had their own empanada shop. So when they moved to New Zealand, it seemed natural to start cooking again.

Hand-rolled pastry filled with traditional Argentinian beef, chorizo sausage, mushrooms and more, the Sabores (meaning flavour in Spanish) empanadas are a hand-held delight.

Lockdown was tough for the couple but as soon as level 4 ended they began to operate their truck from their own driveway in Manukau, to the delight of the entire neighbourhood. Sabores offers gluten-free and vegan options, as well as other delights such as patatas bravas and chimichurri beef rolls.

Find it: at Kumeu Market on June 21. More at facebook.com/saboresslc iTALY Amaranto Pasta & Cucina When he found out three-and-a-half years ago that his wife, Luisa, was gluten-intolerant, trained chef Tommaso Baldassarri started playing around with gluten-free flours, trying to

come up with an alternative. The result is a culmination of experimentation that spanned a year — and eight different flours — and is so close to the real thing you will be amazed. Luisa and Tomasso decided they wanted to take their gluten-free masterpiece on the road and found the perfect vintage caravan for the job. Based in Warkworth, they serve their pasta with a changing list of sauces derived from old family recipes.

Find it: at Ōrewa Pop-up Diner (inside Drifter Coffee), 3 George Lowe Place, Ōrewa on June 18, 5pm-8.30pm. For more details, see facebook.com/ amarantopastacucina SRI LANKA Indy’s Curry Pot Sri Lankan-born chef Indika Bombuwala wanted to venture out on his own. “I decided last year to buy a food truck and convert it to just what I needed. I have a small menu, which changes daily, based on what ingredients I source from local suppliers.” Offering everything from his mouth-watering goat curry to popular vegetarian curries and dahl, Indy has a loyal following on Waiheke Island and for everyone else, well it is only a quick ferry ride away and worth the effort.

Find it: at 20 Tahi Rd, Ostend, Waiheke, Monday to Friday, 4-7pm. More at facebook.com/ indyscurrypot

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34 | Tuesday, June 16, 2020

GO NZ: Our Aotearoa Adventures

»

Golden daze

T

Simon Wilson in praise of flounder (and other childhood memories)

he best food is that feed of mussels on the beach, roasted open on corrugated iron over a fire. The fish and chips with a cheap bottle of bubbly, sitting on the floor of your new house because you can’t afford furniture.

The best food is, by definition, the best because of the people you’re with and the way the sun goes down, which is to say, the occasion. And, coming in an honourable third, the food itself. And it probably has to include fish.

Good restaurants know about this. They give you an experience. If it’s Al Brown at Depot, the experience is designed to make you remember that fire on the beach, even if it’s not your own memory. It’s clever, what he does there.

When we were kids, Al and I used to go to the same beach for our summer holidays. Not that we knew it, because he’s younger than me so we weren’t there together. We holidayed maybe 50m apart, in space but not in time. His dad had a boat and they stayed in the motor camp and did a lot of fishing, and we had no boat and stayed in a rented Fibrolite bach right by the motor camp and never caught anything even when we did try fishing.

Castlepoint, on the Wairarapa Coast, the greatest place on earth.

There’s surf that turns you over and over, thrilling for any kid. Stingrays, sometimes. A shop with icecream and fish and chips, neither of them, sad to say, especially memorable. A lagoon with much wilder surf out beyond the cutting, great sweeping tides that roll in all the way from

Chile. Desolate men fishing off the rocks, risking all for a few kahawai, a lighthouse that never blinks, a million shellfish fossils in the rocks, the castle buttress so high and tough to climb, up through the karaka trees and on to the windblown grassy slopes, with a cliff on the seaward side so sheer that it was, when I was a child, the foundation fear of all my nightmares.

Castlepoint, where the adults were all so tough, hanging about the fishing boats with their sideburns and bottles of beer, the print frocks and stubbies, the ciggies. A place to ride your bike, run on the beach and into the hills, tumble down the giant dunes with sand in your ears and mouth and hair and halfbroken bones by the time you reach the bottom. And do it again. A wild place where the only thing was to be wild.

On evenings when the wind was offshore, the sky heavy and dark, someone would send out a Kontiki line. A little boat with a long line of hooks, named for the sailboat in which Thor Heyerdahl tried to undo generations of Polynesian nautical knowledge, complete with evidence the aliens had landed. He was a romantic figure, then.

The boat would head straight out on the flat expanse of the sea. Later, its sail collapsed, they wound it in and we’d all gawp at the few sad fish flapping on the sand. The magic was not in the catch. The magic was the tiny boat on the endless ocean.

In the evenings, the big kids went after the flounder, in pairs with a long net on poles held upright between them, like a tennis net drag-

Walking at sunset at Castlepoint, Wairarapa; (above) fish and chips on the beach.

Photos / Getty Images

ging the sand. Some tough bugger who never felt the cold at the deeper end, another in the shallows, both trudging along in the gloom.

There’s only one way to cook flounder: panfried with the head on, flour and butter, wedges of lemon. The secret is freshness. Actually the secret is the chips, which should be wedges and must be crunchy.

Drive north of Castlepoint for a couple of hours and they’ll do you a swanky version, crumbed, in the round baronial hall at Craggy Range, in Hawke’s Bay’s Tukituki Valley. They do an even better one at Pipi Restaurant in nearby Havelock North, around the corner and up the hill a bit on Joll St, where everything is pink, the tables are benches and the whole place, operated by a genius called Alex Tylee, makes a promise to you: of warm, fond, occasionally raucous and possibly a little too drunken happiness.

Alex doesn’t always have flounder. It’s that kind of fish.

But when she does, it spills over the edge of the plate and you squeeze out the lemon, eat the fillet off one side, sweet and juicy and firm, and lift the frame with your knife and fork, turn it over, breaking nothing, and repeat. Take pleasure in the skill of it. Divert to the chips at your leisure. And to the greens, perhaps watercress, fresh, for the tang of it, picked in the creek within the hour.

For more New Zealand travel inspiration, go to newzealand.com/dosomethingnew

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Tuesday, June 16, 2020 | 35

Departure Lounge

NEXT WEEK ...

New Zealand has long been regarded as a playground for rich and famous international visitors. Our country is bursting at the borders with spectacular experiences and luxurious lodgings. But why should overseas tourists be the only ones who get to enjoy them?

In next week’s issue, we’re taking you inside the luxury lodges, five-star hotels, award-winning golf courses, world- class spas and exclusive experiences our beautiful country has to offer.

Because if you’ve had to rethink your overseas holiday this year, why not splurge a little at home?

In partnership with 100% Pure New Zealand, you’ll find Travel’s luxury issue inside the New Zealand Herald, Bay of Plenty Times, Hawke’s Bay Today, Northern Advocate, Rotorua Daily Post, and Whanganui Chronicle, on Tuesday, June 23. Don’t miss your copy.

Minaret Station, a luxury lodge in the Southern Alps. Photo / Supplied

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All the hidden foodie secretswe’re and drool-worthy Continuing to gems, plan all the places going to visit delicious delights packing the pages of today’s when the world eventually finds its new normal.magazine.

We’ll never stop dreaming.

The innovative chefs, producers, growers, brewers, farmers Covid-19’s impact on lives around the world. Not only and hospo goodies to our tables. those who staff are bringing sick, but these all those in the travel and tourism industries who are facing devastating effects on their livelihoods. Please support where you can.

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