NZ Herald - Viva 13th September 2023

FROMTHEEDITOR

Ifyou’vealwaysconsideredSingaporejusta placetotransitthrough,Isuggestyouthink again.Afterworkingonthisweek’sissue,I certainlyhave.Wesent Viva writerEmma GleasonandphotographerBabicheMartens toSingaporewiththebrieftoseekoutthe partsofthisstylishcitythatpeopledon’t knowaboutandwhattheycamebackwithis incredible.

“There’ssomuchtosee,do,eatanddrink thatSingaporecanseemoverwhelmingat first,butwedoloveachallenge,”saysEmma.

“Inanitineraryofhighpoints,it’shardto pickafavourite,butChinMeeChinwasareal standout,withitstraditionalSingaporean breakfast,coolfit-out,andlovelystaff.”You canreadaboutthislocalstalwartandother sensationalrestaurantsandbars,allmelding theculturalfusionthatmakesthecity-state sounique,onpage6.Ofcourse,what’savisit toacitylikeSingaporewithoutshopping!

Onpage10EmmaandBabiche,withthe helpoflocals,sharesomeoftheone-ofa-kindboutiques,luxurystoresandmore thatwarrantsavingspaceinyourluggage.

Andformoreinsiderknowledge,weasked SingaporeanjournalistJamieNonistoreveal someofthehottestprivateclubsintownon page22.Youmightneedtopullafewstrings togetaccessintooneofthese,butprivate clubsarearealsceneinSingaporeandare oftenuber-glamorous.

Ifyou’renotplanningtoflysoon,however, recipeeditorAngelaCasleyhascreateda tastymenuyoucancookathome,inspiredby thedeliciousflavoursof Singapore.

AMANDALINNELL, MANAGINGEDITOR

CONTENTS

6SERVINGUPSINGAPORE

WheretostayinSingapore

Fromluxuryhotelsandtrustedinternationalchainstoboutiqueaccommodation,therearemyriadoptions.

FromstreetfoodtoMichelin-starredrestaurants, there’stemptationoneverycorner

10WHERETOSHOP

DiscoverwhySingaporeisashopper’sparadise

14OURCITY

ThreeNewZealanderswhocallSingaporehome

22JOINTHECLUB

Whyprivateclubsaretheplacetonetwork

26GARDENPARTY

Discovereightnewfragrancesforspring

28RETURNOFTHEPRINCE

JesseMulligancelebratesthereturnofnighttimediningatPonsonby’sOrphansKitchen

30SPICEISLAND

Fromaclassicrendangtosambalchicken,cook upAngelaCasley’stastymenu

ONTHECOVER:

AtraditionalSingaporeanbreakfastfromChin MeeChininKatong,featuringjust-boiledeggs, sugeecake,breadwithkayajamandstrong coffee.Seemoreonpage6. Photo/BabicheMartens

EDITOR AMANDALINNELL

CREATIVEDIRECTOR DANAHWA

DEPUTYEDITOR JOHANNATHORNTON

BEAUTYEDITOR ASHLEIGHCOMETTI

COMMERCIALEDITOR EMMAGLEASON

DESIGNER LAURAHUTCHINS

SENIORWRITER REBECCABARRYHILL

DIGITALEDITOR JULIAGESSLER

DININGOUTEDITOR JESSEMULLIGAN

RECIPEEDITOR ANGELACASLEY

MULTIMEDIAJOURNALIST MADELEINECRUTCHLEY

PRODUCTIONEDITOR ISOBELMARRINER

SUB-EDITORS COURTNEYWHITAKER, JILLSTANFORD,SUEBAXALLE,MAUREENMARRINER

EDITORIALINQUIRIES PH(09)3736400, VIVA@NZHERALD.CO.NZ

COMMERCIALINQUIRIES KELLYSPICE, KELLY.SPICE@NZME.CO.NZ

WarehouseHotel: Whentheyweren’tbusydashingaroundthecityreportingforthisspecialissue,the Viva teamwas basedattheverycoolWarehouseHotel,locatedbytheSingaporeRiver.FollowtheirleadandcrossPulauSaigonBridge foramorningconstitutionalinKimSengPark,fullofjoggersanddogseachmorningbeforetheheatgetsup,andanarray ofbuzzingcafesandeateriesinthecoolneighbourhoodofRobertsonQuay.Speakingofbuzz,thishandsomerepurposed buildinghashadmanyformerlives.Originallyaspicewarehouse—whichinformedthehotel’sname—inwhatwas thenabustlingtradeprecinct,italsoservedtimeasabootlegdistilleryand,duringthe1980s,adiscotheque.Nowwitha sophisticatedrefurbishment,asleekwhiteexteriorandanindustrial-inspiredfit-outinside,itoffersaboutiqueexperience forguests,withanintimaterestaurantandrooftoppool.Weadvisebookingaroomwithariverview.Maketimetolinger inthelobby;it’sjustlovely,withcomfortableleatherchairsandarelaxed,jazzyvibe.Andenjoytheconsideredofferingof cocktails,inspiredbythebuilding’s“enduringspiritofenigmaandrevelry”and“thegiddyheydayofdisco”accordingto themenu.Ifyou’relucky,you’llalsocatchthetall,friendlyAmerican,Joe,who’sbrimmingwithgoodrecommendations fornichebarsandrestaurants. Thewarehousehotel.com

MondrianSingaporeDuxton: Alocallyrecommendedhotspot,thishotelopenedafewmonthsagoandisalready thetalkofthetown.Thestriking,modernistarchitectureappealstodesignaficionados,andit’sintheheartofthetrendy DuxtonHilldistrict. Agoda.com

RafflesSingapore: Famous,classicanddeservingofitsiconicstatus.IfyouwanttheultimateSingaporeexperienceand don’tmindsplashingout,bookyourselfinhere. Raffles.com

TheFullertonBayHotel: Astately,neo-classicalbuilding(itusedtobetheGeneralPostOffice)isjustonedrawcardof thiselegantdestination,whichoozesold-worldcharmandaluxuryexperienceforguests,whoincludebusinesstravellers, touristsandstylishclientele. Fullertonhotels.com

PanPacificOrchard: AnotherrecentadditiontoSingapore’shoteloffering,thissolarpunkvisionisabreathtaking exampleofthegardencity’sidentity. Panpacific.com

SINGAPORE: HOWTOGETTHERE

There’snobetterwaytogettothesingularstreetsofSingapore thanwiththeLionCity’snationalcarrier(afterall,youhavetofly beforeyoucanwalk)anditsserviceistopofitsclassacrossall ticketingoptions.IngoodnewsforKiwislookingtotakeflight, SingaporeAirlines—whichhasoperatedintheNewZealand marketfornearly50years—isreintroducingitsflagshipAirbus A380servicestoAucklandfromNovember22.The“superjumbo” seatsanimpressive471,providingextracapacityforthepopular route.Italsofacilitatesthereturnoftheairline’spremium“Suites” service,withsixonoffer,inadditiontobusinessclass,premium economyandeconomy,presentingoptionsforalltravellers.And tocelebrateajauntabroad,Champagnealwaysgoesdownnicely; Suitesandfirst-classguestscannowenjoyanexpandedselection, including2016CuveeVolupte,BlancdeBlancsVintageby ChampagneGeoffroyinSeptember,and2018Multi-Vintage(MV) byChampagneHenriGiraudbyCharlesHeidsieckfromOctoberto November.Cheerstothat! Singaporeair.com

Photo/Supplied

CellYes!

You’veheardofskincare,butwhatabout skinscience?It’sthepremiseonwhichNew ZealandcellbiologistDrIonaWeirfounded hercompany,Atopis.Thebreakthroughskin healthsystemreliesonscience,nothype,to addressamultitudeofskinconcerns,and itsrecentreformulationhasseentwoofthe brand’sbest-sellingrangesreimaginedto betheirmostefficaciousyet.TheRadiant BalanceSystemisgearedtowardshormonal, rosacea-prone,normalandsensitiveskin typestoreduceflare-ups,skinsensitivity andrebalancetheskin’smicrobiome,while theIntensiveRestoreSystemhelpshealthe damagedepidermisandrestoremoisture toprematurelyageingordamagedskin. EachoneharnessesMyrecil,apatented biotechnologydevelopedbyDrWeirusing ahostofnaturalingredients,whichwas originallyformulatedtoaddressatopicskin conditionslikeeczemaandrosacea.The AtopisRadiantBalanceSystemincludes theRadiantBalanceCream,$69,and RadiantBalanceNightCream,$99,while theIntensiveRestoreSystemcomprisesthe IntensiveRestoreCream,$99,andIntensive RestoreNightCream,$119. Atopis.co.nz

LightOfMine

Cravingasenseofcalm?Oraseasideescape?LocalcandlemakerNevéhasunveiledtwonewmesmerisingscents tobeaddedtoitscurrentrepertoireofhand-poured,wood-wickedproducts:SeasideinSorrentoandChamomile Calm.InspiredbyherrecenttriptoSorrento,Italy,NevéfounderTessaLyesaimedtocapturethescentofsalt sprayandcitrusfillingtheair.Togroundthesensesandcalmabusymind,TessadevelopedChamomileCalm —withnotesofRomanchamomile,softsageandsandalwood,lacedwithsoothinglavenderandupliftingsweet orange.Eachscentisavailableinalargewhitecandle,$64,mediumwhitecandle,$48,ortraveltincandle,$30 (refillsofthelargestsizearepricedat$50),aroomspray,$36,orcardiffuser,$46(refillsare$20).

AvailablefromSeptember17fromselectedindependentretailersoronlineatNeve.co.nz

GETDOWNTOEARTH

Timedaroundthespringequinox,thesixthannual OrganicWineWeekisacelebrationoforganicwines fromAotearoa.OrganisedbyOrganicWinegrowersNZ (OWNZ),fromSeptember18-24,wineries,distributors, influencers,restaurants,andretailersareunitingto showcaseandraiseawarenessoftheimportanceand qualityoforganicwineinthecountry.

Mid-waythroughtheweekattheOWNZ-hosted DowntoEarthonThursday,September21,visitors cangetamongtheexcitingdevelopmentshappening inorganicwine.It’sanopportunitytotry60different bottles,pouredby20organicwineries,accompanied bythoughtfulfingerfoodattheEastStHallfrom 5.30pmuntil8pm.Theywillnotonlybesharingtheir wines,butmembersofthecountry’smaingrowerledorganicwinegrowingorganisationwillalsobe transmittingtheirpassionforthepositiveimpactthese canhaveonpeopleandtheplanet.

Organicwinesarethosemadewithoutsynthetic chemicalfertilisers,pesticidesorherbicides,with afocusonworkingwithnatureratherthanagainst ittofosterthebiodiversitythatsupportshealthy soilandvines.Theseencompassbiodynamicwines, whichalsoworkwithspecialplant,animalandmineral preparations,andtherhythmicinfluencesofthesun, moonandplanets.

Gainingtractioninrecentyears,organicwinesare beingmadebysomeofNewZealand’smostrevered producers,fromBellHilltoFeltonRoad.Morethan10 percentofNewZealandwineriesnowholdorganic certification.

● Fortickets,visit Organicwinenz.com/downtoearth, andheadto Viva.co.nz forfiveorganicwinestotrynow

RightNow

GLAZEDEFFECT

Ifyourworkspaceisindesperateneedofsome organisation,keepitchicwithaMismaAnaru organiser,anexcellentsolutionforstoringstationery andbeautyproducts;oryoucouldevengetcreative anduseitasavaseforthosefreshspringblooms.The handmadeglazedvesselmeasures11cmx17.5cmx 4.7cmandisinlimitedquantities,sobequick.Misma Anaruorganiser(Raumati),$220,fromPennySage. Pennysage.com

SandalSeason

Toputaspringquiteliterallyinyourstep,thenewseasonbringsfancy footweartowelcomeinlongerdaysandwarmertemperatures.There’sarange ofgreatsandalstoaddtoaspring/summerwardrobe,includingtheFarley sandal,$250,fromMerchant1948’snewcollection.Withitschunkysoled platformandcustomhardware,it’sthetypeofutilitarianstylesandalthat worksforvariousdresscodes;perfectwitharelaxedsuitfortheofficeand justtherightamountofattitudetopairwithafloatingpartydressforthose impendingsoirees. Merchant1948.co.nz

RUNWAYMEETSRETAIL

Themomentumofinspiringrunwayshowsandspring fashioncontinues,withCommercialBaysettohostits ownhappeningonthenightofSeptember23.Solstice byCommercialBaypromisesa“spectacularnightof fashionandmusic”witha26-metrerunway,withsome ofAotearoa’sbestmodelsshowcasinglooksfromthe precinct’shigh-calibrerosterofbrands–includinglocal designersWynnHamlyn,KateSylvester,Twenty-seven NamesandILoveUgly,aswellasinternationallabels likeTommyHilfiger,KateSpadeandR.M.Williams–a performancebyBroods,andinstallationsthroughoutthe centre.Ticketholdersalsogointhedrawtowinprizeson thenight,andforachancetoattendthishot-property event,headtoViva.co.nz/win.

HSERVING UP

Drawing on its rich cultural history and the zeal of a new generation, Singapore serves up everything from high-end restaurants and Michelin-starred street food, to (literally) historic cocktails Pack your appetite, writes Emma

istorically a trading hub, positioned in the centre of Southeast Asia, Singapore is still a busy port city with ships filling the harbour on any given day, Indonesia visible in the distance As an international hub for industries like finance, property, technology and manufacturing, its enduring mix of migrants and citizens from diasporic backgrounds remains an influential part of local life all combining to create a diverse mix of cuisines

Food culture is the beating heart of the city, pulsing through every street and building Everywhere you turn there’s somewhere to eat, and people inside doing just that Food, and access to it, are a core of the city’s value system; civic signs in the park promote the importance of family meals Individual diners are well catered to, too There are heritage neighbourhoods and longstanding eateries, world-class fine dining and list-topping bars, luxury fashion and local boutiques; all enjoyed by locals and visitors with equal zeal Strike up a conversation with any Singaporean and it likely, swiftly, turns to what to eat; impassioned recommendations for favourite spots quick stop at the nearest hawker centre for lunch or dinner, or a visit to one of the city’s many, many, many restaurants

and cafes debates about what truly is the national dish of this melting-pot of a city, and above all an appetite for sharing dishes with family and friends As a city of five and a half million people, the range is overwhelming, and to experience a more local kind of visit (beyond the city-state’s popular resorts and more touristic sights) it takes some insider insight to know where to start, and even then we ’ re only breaking the surface of a deep, rich food culture that

warrants more than just one trip; think of this as a tasting menu

The sheer number of eateries, and diners filling all the seats, didn’t cease to surprise us during the four days we were there With temperatures hovering at 32 degrees, starting your day well puts you in good stead to get a lot done, not to mention one of the pleasures of a trip abroad is enjoying a leisurely morning; wake up early and make the most of the relative quiet and cool before Singapore gets going

1START YOUR DAY WITH A STRONG COFFEE (AND A BITE TO EAT)

An easy walk from the city’s riverside hotels of Robertson Quay, is Tiong Bahru, a peaceful art deco neighbourhood with less bustle but plenty of charm; primarily residential it was a pioneering area for Singapore’s public housing model it’s decidedly chill, and home to some coffee spots There’s cool Privé Cafe, bohemian Merci Marcel, and the flagship location of Tiong Bahru Bakery, which turns out exceptionally good croissants at its outlets around the city and uses French flour and butter for its baking Singapore is currently seeing a surge in popularity for sourdough bread and other European fare, with

Gleason

locals queuing avidly to get their hands on these baked goods Visit Micro Bakery, located in the iconic Red House building, or Joo Chiat’s Petit Pain

One very hip destination worth a visit is Chye Seng Huat Hardware in Jalan Besar. The cafe operation of PPP Coffee, a roastery that started in the backyard of a shophouse, before seizing the opportunity presented by a “for lease” sign outside this protected heritage building on Tyrwhitt Rd, which now also serves as its headquarters, where it hosts workshops and tastings upstairs.

Much of the exterior remains unchanged, even the hardware store signage, and the forecourt provides a relaxing courtyard space for eating and drinking al fresco, perfect for Singapore’s balmy climate. The roastery backs onto the courtyard. You’ll want to order coffee, of course; the filter and iced brews are great, while the latte will prove worthy of any New Zealander abroad. The food makes this a destination too, with an a la carte menu serving breakfast until an impressive 4pm, plus all-day fare, while the pastry cabinet is great too.

The pandan kaya cake, a local specialty that gets its vibrant green flavour from the leaf of the same name, is a creamy and moist delight, and goes well with a strong black coffee

Chye Seng Huat Hardware

SINGAPORE

2GETATASTEOFSINGAPORE TRADITIONATSOMEOF THESECLASSICSPOTS

Foramoreold-schoolflavour, headtothecharacterful ChinMeeChin inKatongforatraditionalSingaporean breakfast,disheduponclassic,sturdy enamelware.Eggsarejust-boiledand silkysoft,mixthemtogetherwithsoyand blackpepperorslurpthemdownwhole, localstyle.Forsweeterfare,thereisbread spreadwithChinMeeChin’ssignature kayajam—acondimentmadefromegg yolk,coconutmilk,sugarandpandanleaf (cafesmaketheirown)inthePeranakan styleratherthanHainanese—anda squareofbutter;thesugeecake,made withsemolina,isamust,asaretherather

“Asacityoffive andahalfmillion people,therangeis overwhelming,and toexperienceamore localkindofvisitit takessomeinsider insighttoknow wheretostart,and eventhenwe’reonly breakingthesurface ofadeep,richfood culture.”

indulgentcream-filledtwists;whilethe 50-year-oldchocolatecupcakerecipeis anostalgicfavouriteofthecafe’solder clientele.Alsobelovedisthetraditional coffee,servedwithcoconutcream.

Nowpaintedacrispskyblue,the buildingwentupin1925andoriginally housedabreaddeliverybusiness—via bicycle—beforeevolvingintoadine-in operationandbakery.FoundedbyTan HuiDong,hewasjoinedbysonTanJoo Longanddaughter-in-lawLeongKwang Ling;granddaughterSharonTanjoined them,andthoughdecidingtoclosethe cafein2019,itreopenedin2021with thesupportoflong-timecustomer, neighbourandfamilyfriendLimKian Chun,whosecompanyEbb&FlowGroup

arenowpartners,introducingittoa newgeneration.Sharon’shusbandPeter explainsChinMeeChin’shistory,aswe sitintheshadedrinkingmorecoffee, talkingaboutfootball(specificallyJohann Cruyff)andfoodandfamily.ChinMee ChinisMandarinfor“genuinebeautiful treasure”hesays,andfittinglymuch ofthecharacterandhistoryhasbeen preserved;thespacehasanout-of-time quality,withdarkwoodfixturesandan oscillatingceilingfan,andthefooddoes too,makingitaspecial,only-in-Singapore experience.

Thecity’shistoriceateriesalso encompasslong-standingbusinesses thathavebecomeneighbourhood institutions. KampongGlamCafe occupiesaprominentcornerlocationin thedistrictofthesamename,andthe familybusinessdoesabusytradeofits affordable,flavoursomeMalaycuisine. Theburgundyawningoffersshadefor fresh-aireating,andchairsarecheerful, fuss-freeredplastic.

NeweropeningsdrawfromSingapore’s storiedfoodhistory; Sinpopo trades onagourmet-nostalgiavibe,offering asophisticatedspinontraditional Peranakandishes.Inthe10yearssince itopened,ithasbecomefamousforits pretty,tastynasilemak:riceiscoloured withbluepeaflower,nutsarecandied andcucumberispicked,andit’sserved withAngusbeefcheekrendang—its versionofthisPeranakaniconfeatures house-maderempah(spicepaste)— Assamsambalprawns,anotherhouse specialty,andcrispychickenwings marinatedinprawnpaste.Thesoft-

boiledegg,smotheredinsambalsand caremalisedonion,isworthgettingasan extraside.

Don’tleavewithoutorderingfrom thecakecabinetinthelounge.There’s theshreddedtapiocaofbingakubi,gula melaka(palmsugar)buttercake,assorted iterationswithdurian,andtheevocatively titled“drippingkayacake”.Andwiththe flagshipnowrelocatedfromJooChiat toanelegantspacewithinthefamous Tangsdepartmentstore,nottomention Sinpopo’ssignaturehighteaservice, it’spopularwithshopperstraversing Orchard’smanystores.

There’sacommemorativetableinthe windowof WeeNamKee —aspot famousforitsiterationofHainanese chickenrice,oneofSingapore’snational dishes—giftedbyfriendsofthefamilyrunbusiness,explainsWeeLiangLian overamealbeforetheeveningshiftstarts.

Hisfatherwasinadvertising,then openedaprintingpress,beforeeventually decidingtolaunchtherestaurant.He’d alwayswantedtodoaneatery,Hainanese likethefamily(theyhavetheirown formulationfortheirsignaturedish)and hewasjoinedbyhisson,theMrWeewe’re meeting,whenLiangLianwasinhis30s.

Family-styleeatingandthesharingof foodistheheartofthebusiness.“Ithink thejoycomesfromeatingwithpeople,” hesays.“Youletyourguarddown.”So belovedistherestauranttoitspatronsthat onecouple,whometatWeeNamKee, decidedtohavetheirweddingtheretoo.

Hainanesechickenriceisadelicate andcomfortingdish,andit’shisfavourite meal.“Ihaveiteveryday,”hesays.“I

ChinMeeChin

Sinpopo

WeeNamKee

Food & Drink

love food I love simple basic food ” And though the dish has made the restaurant a destination, they serve an array of dishes including another national dish, chilli crab, and other Nanyang (a meld of southern China and Southeast Asia) cuisine hits “You can’t just do one [thing] ”

3HEAD TO A HAWKER CENTRE FOR A TRULY UNIQUE EXPERIENCE

Another local tradition, hawker centres are unique to Singapore and definitive of its dining culture Established by the government in the 1970s, the concept aimed to centralise street vendors, and provide widespread access to affordable food as part of its social housing strategy and urban vision Today, there are over 100 of these open-plan, sheltered spaces across the city, servicing everything from family meals to workday lunches, and offering a wide range of cuisines from Singapore’s many diaspora cultures

At Amoy Street Hawker Centre, popular with workers and packed with 76 food options, you’ll find Hoo Kee Rice Dumpling It’s been there since 1983, when the precinct opened, and the family business is now in third-generation hands: Ryk Chew, who runs it alongside his wife Sherlyn They make and sell 300-400 sticky rice dumplings every day, and the whole process begins the night before with the soaking of the leaves and rice There are four to choose from chestnut and pork (the original and, I think, the best), iterations that include a salted egg or mushroom, and a deluxe “all-in” with everything Each is perfectly caramelised, sticky and rich, and goes very well with chilli sauce Queues start at 11 30am when office breaks begin, so go early

So dedicated are hawker centre proprietors to food, that some have even earned Michelin stars Hill Street

“Hawker centres are unique to Singapore and definitive of its dining culture.

Established by the government in the 1970s, the concept aimed to centralise street vendors and provide widespread access to affordable

food as part of its social housing strategy and urban vision.”

Tai Hwa Pork Noodle, located at Tai Hwa Eating House, is one of these A trip to Singapore isn’t complete without a visit You want to order the gan mian (dry noodles), a spicy dish with several incarnations of pork including crackling, which soaks up the sauce rather nicely or if you want something slightly more mellow, guo tiao tang (rice noodle soup) with a side of zha bian yu (salted fried fish) doesn’t go amiss Nor does a cup of kopi, traditional Singapore-style coffee that’s a must regardless of the hour These are served strong, made with condensed milk, in a handsome glass mug

4DIVE INTO THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF FUSION

Singapore’s multicultural heritage is the foundation of its historic eateries It is also shaping the dining zeitgeist and influx of talent, as new generations translate traditions for an audience hungry for new flavours

Chef Rishi Naleendra has two-Michelinstarred restaurant Cloudstreet to his name, and his latest Singapore opening, Kotuwa, is an homage to his Sri Lankan upbringing The vibe is relaxed and the music old school, but the food is serious notably, an unforgettably fragrant fish curry, made from jade perch, with turmeric leaf and pomelo The kitchen’s use of tamarind is something special, balancing a rich and crispy duck leg, absorbed by a fried eggplant pickle, and used for a house-made sauce served with a crab cutlet If tang is your thing, order the amba maluwa (green mango) curry too There’s also an array of cocktails with Sri Lankan flavours, and specialty spirits like aromatic Arrack

Fusion is big in Singapore, and for a city with so many different cultures, and many residents with mixed heritage, this style of food makes more sense here than it does

g p , p g g be precise, whose portmanteau name sums up its business proposition very succinctly Owner and chef Burhan Khalid opened for business in July, with a concise menu focused on this intriguing proposition As well as the beef which is delicious there’s a lamb-shank rendang on offer, made with New Zealand lamb, and with eight hours of cooking the meat is so tender that the bone can be pulled from its pastry casing, as Burhan performed with a flourish Given New Zealanders’ affinity with pies, this unique dish is worth making time for Also worth ordering is the pulut “sushi” rendang; beef encased in turmeric-infused glutenous rice, served with green sambal hijau and topped with serundeng, sautéed coconut and spices

On the fancier end of the fusion spectrum is Synthesis Hidden away, the retro, neon-lit entryway is a savvy visual entrée to what’s inside this lounge bar and eatery The interior is shiny and sexy with metallic surfaces, and a youthful energy permeates the whole place, embodied by founder Sebastian Ang, 34, whose vision and menu draw from traditional Chinese medicine, a practice he says is becoming lost with younger generations, and hopes to reclaim and revitalise with Synthesis

y g g straddle different cuisines An Assamcurry pani puri with cured salmon has surprising bite; the truffle carbonara is made with yams more tender than the softest gnocchi, topped with burdock root; a fragrant herbal broth poured over chicken tastes like the most nourishing meal you’ll ever eat overlooking a bar; while an oolong tea-infused tiramisu offers a twist on a classic Best of all, perhaps, is this prawn paste-marinated fried chicken Equally important is its drinks range, also inspired by traditional Chinese medicine, and Synthesis is a popular venue for parties and bars. On quieter nights (by Singapore standards) hip young locals, luxury handbags in tow, stop by to catch up over a drink or celebrate a special occasion; there were two birthdays taking place when we visited

5

SEE HOW SINGAPORE DOES FARM-TO-TABLE

The new generation of restaurateurs also aim to spotlight food provenance Scaled by Ah Hua Kelong, which also dabbles in fusion, is most notable for its farm-to-table approach to seafood, and it’s Singapore’s first fish-farmer-owned restaurant

Hill

Scaled by Ah Hua Kelong

The colourful neighbourhood of Katong

“The bar scene is so hot here like the climate that Singapore can lay claim to some of Asia’s finest.”

gion’s traditional rms) Its dedication w way of doing things make the menu a strong prospect

The intriguingly titled “KFC” (kelongfried collar) is a crunchy delight and a theatrical addition to the table, and for a fish-and-chip experience with Singaporean flare, order a side of potatoes, which are served with house-made XOXO sauce Prawns are a must too, and we had them two ways aglio e olio style, as well as roasted with seaweed butter and kelp The curry mussels, locally caught and immersed in a blend of Indian and Chinese flavours, are sensational; ask for spicy, and mop up with fried mantou (Chinese steamed bun).

With dishes like this and a youthful, approachable vibe, the eatery has made quite a splash with diners, who flock to the art-deco building for its two dinner sittings Located in the relative quiet of Jalan Besar, it’s a good spot if you want a cool meal away from crowded streets Not that the restaurant is quiet, far from it They open at 5pm, and when we arrive at ten past, the long thin space is nearly all full, so booking is essential

Open Farm Community, meanwhile, has an agricultural focus; it operates as a sustainable urban farm, Singapore’s first apparently, serving up produce grown

grungy space with a patina of cool that’s earned not bought; the building’s been refurbished just enough, while retaining its character and ambience The bar is low, the booths are plush and the lighting’s dim And the cocktails? Sublime

Other cool spots advised by one switched-on industry insider: Cat Bite Club, Stay Good Flamingo, Foxtail, No Sleep Club and Sago House With a soaring skyline, Singapore isn’t short on rooftop bars from which to enjoy the view and a drink, including Mr Stork

on-site to its stylish clientele The leafy destination’s popular with families looking for a dash of farm life in a metropolis that, while strikingly verdant, imports 90 per cent of its food due to land constraints

In nearby Dempsey Hill, a sophisticated terracotta-roofed neighbourhood of repurposed barracks on (now popular dining and shopping precinct, even the former chapel is now a bar) chocolaterie Mr Bucket aims to promote Southeast Asian chocolate as a worthy competitor to other global iterations, taking a farm-totable approach to its cacao beans which it sources directly from farmers and roasts in house There are single-origin bars, hand-painted bonbons and an indulgent menu. Named for Roald Dahl’s famous character Charlie Bucket, founder Jerome Penafort has created a suitably interactive open-plan space, with a youthful and enthusiastic team hosting everything from workshops and birthdays to make-yourown chocolate experiences There’s even cacao wine for the grown-ups

6

AND TASTE A TIPPLE AT ONE OF THE CITY’S MANY HOT BARS

Speaking of vinos, natural wine still so popular in New Zealand has caught on in Singapore too, with dedicated bars like Le Bon Funk and Juice serving

up skin contact specialties, and the city’s first natural wine store, Wine Mouth, can be found in the fittingly trendy (and gentrifying) area Joo Chiat

Mixologists are finding inspiration in this funky drop too, with Jigger And Pony serving a handful of “natural cocktails” inspired by the global wine fad, including the Cloudy Kangaroo, which incorporates strained soy milk curd, sake lees (a byproduct of the sake process) and sherry The vibe of the bar is funk-filled too, with a loungey feel and curvaceous fit-out blue suede booths and lighting that makes you feel like you ’ re at the bottom of a whiskey glass In an old-school ode to print media, drinks are listed in a “menu-zine” and each cocktail has its own entry and picture, proving a helpful resource indeed

A new generation of beer is also enjoying buoyed popularity, and New Zealanders with a taste for a crafty brew would do well to seek out local favourites like The 1925 Brewing Co’s Liang Teh Lager, a gentle and fragrant chrysanthemum beer And with nothing quite like a cold one on a hot day, head to some dedicated operations like The Kongsee, Druggists and SG Taps

For a very hip experience, head to 28 HongKong Street With an unobtrusive entrance, it’s easy to miss though you’ll want to ensure you don’t Inside is a sexy,

The bar scene is so hot here like the climate that Singapore can lay claim to some of Asia’s finest The monolithic Atlas Bar, anointed one of the best 50 bars in the world and Asia’s top five, intoxicates with its interior alone: a cavernous, 1920s-inspired space The drinks are of course top-notch too, and this old-world feel extends to the menu, with iterations of classic cocktails, worldfamous Champagnes, as well as some quite literally historic options: sample a “vintage martini” with your choice of gin from the 1910s onwards Their standards are high, and the dress code is enforced

For another taste of history, the iconic Raffles is home to the elegant, literary Writers Bar where you can order the Million Dollar Cocktail, invented by bartender Ngiam Tong Boon, who concocted the original Singapore Sling This joint is named for the many authors who’ve frequented the hotel since brothers Martin, Tigran, Aviet, and Arshak Sarkies opened it in 1887, and their names extend to the menu, and a writer-in-residence programme Madeleine Lee is its latest alumni, and there are several cocktails on offer, inspired by her book of poems, which is available to purchase a lasting memento of a satiating trip to Singapore ● Viva travelled to Singapore courtesy of the Singapore Tourism Board.

Synthesis

Above: Kampong Glam Cafe occupies a prominent spot in the district around Arab St and Haji Lane Photos / Babiche Martens

From luxury brands that we don’t have (yet) to only-inSingapore retailers and uniquely local labels, leave some space in your luggage for some retail therapy

Acity that’s heaving with luxury brands catering to its highincome residents and visitors in some neighbourhoods, it feels like there’s a Prada on every corner Singapore is a designer destination, covering every trend and taste.

From flagship luxury stores to glittering malls, it’s surreal compared to New Zealand’s small retail market, and travellers wanting to immerse themselves in an “international” experience can dive in here with an only-in-Singapore shopping list.

While New Zealand has some luxury players, many global brands can only be experienced with a trip to an international powerhouse like Singapore.

1A SLEEK AND SHINY LOCATION FOR LUXURY SHOPPERS

To hit as many stores as possible in one afternoon, a trip to Orchard Rd is a smart idea. Established in the 1970s as a tailoring precinct, recent years have seen it transformed into a high-end shopping district with soaring buildings stacked with household names such as Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton and Dior, as well as stores we wish we had in Auckland, such as Issey Miyake’s Pleats Please line.

The ION Orchard building houses a breathtaking luxury array, including Harry Winston, Loro Piana, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Saint Laurent, Longchamp and Tiffany, while the handsome Takashimaya Shopping Centre houses everything from Onitsuka to Chanel.

There are destination stores aplenty too. A far cry from its urban, London cousin, Singapore’s Dover Street Market outpost is located in the leafy surrounds of Dempsey Hill. In the architectural, modernist interior (which incorporates antique furniture to

Where to shop in

greateffect)you’llfindof-the-moment designerslikeSimoneRocha,Chopova Lowena,MartineRose,KikoKostadinov, MollyGoddard,Jacquemusand refreshinglyofflineParisbrandCasey Casey.

Localmulti-brandstore Club21 has madeanameforitself,housinganarray oftheworld’sbestbrands—including JWAnderson,CommedesGarcons, YohjiYamamoto,Marni,CecilieBahnsen, ThomBrowne,JilSander,Balmainand Alaia—cateringtoawell-heeledlocal market.Theretailerhasmultiplestores inSingapore,andtheFourSeasonsshop caterstoaslightlymorematurecustomer, withanassortmentthat’smoreornate andtailored—includinganimpressive rangefromDriesVanNoten.

WheredostylishKiwisliketoshop? “AvenueOn3 atParagonShopping Centreisamust-doluxuryshopping destination.Getsweptupinthehighly curatedluxuryfootwearandaccessories, beautyandhomewareedit,andbesure totakeamomenttoindulgeintheir residentcafeandChampagnebar,” advisesGemmaRoss,formerSingapore expatandco-founderofHustle&Bustle.

“

Bungalow55 hasagreatcollection offurniture,lightingandobjectsthat makeahouseahomewhetheryou’re inSingaporeforashortorlongtime, curatedbyexpatinteriordesignerNina Beale.”

2

INDEPENDENT BOUTIQUESWITHA UNIQUEPOINTOFVIEW

Alsouniquetothecityisits smallstableofindependentboutiques. Alongsidethebigflagshipbrands flourishingaroundOrchard,you’llalso findindependentboutique whichstocksbrandslikeLemaireand A.P.C.Itrelocatedtothestylish,HiltonadjacentretailprecinctMandarinGallery around2018,fromitspreviousspaceat CapitolPiazza—whereitusedtohost everythingfromravestoanin-store tattooartist,explainsgeneralmanager ElishaOng.Itsnewiteration(whichhas repurposedfixturesanddetailsfromthe oldspace)ismoresedate,thoughstill visionary,withitsimpressiveclaycounter —hand-madefromclayonsite,the mouldhasbeenrepurposedforwindow displays—andaimofcarvingoutaspace forauniquepointofview.

Vintagefashionisalsogainingawellheeledfootingwithafewindependent storesleadingthecharge.Thevibrant andverycool AVintageTale onJoo ChiatRdisamust-visit.Thecolourful assortmentspansthemid-centuryto 1990s,includingiconiclabelslikeGucci, Dior,ChanelandYvesSaintLaurent, complementedbyasavvyaccessories offeringofglamorous1980scostume jewellery,luxurybagsandelegant scarves,andthestoreisabrightoasisin theSingaporefashionlandscape—which isdominatedbycontemporarylabels, luxurybrandsandathleisure.

SariCoughlanopenedtheshop10years agoandithasbeenawarded“bestvintage store”twice.Togetherwithherbusiness partner,sheworkswithexpertcollectors inEuropetosourcetheirwaresandbring themtotheSingaporeanshopper.

Sheexplainstheywanttoencourage Singaporeanstoexploreamoreeclectic approachtofashion.“Weliketo encouragemixingandmatching,”she says,andtheyaimtosharethevalueof treasuredpre-lovedgarments.Other

“Fromflagshipluxury storestoglittering malls,it’sasurreal experienceand travellerswantingto immersethemselves inan“international” experienceofthe metropolitanilkcan diveinhere,foran only-in-Singapore experienceofhigh-

thingsaresharedtoo;there’shappy houronThursdaysandFridays(the storehasitsownbarattheback)and connectingtheirclienteleisimportantto thecommunitythey’vecreated.Theyalso aimtomakevintagedesignerclothing accessible,andtheshophostsaspecial by-the-kilosaleafewtimesayear.

Coughlanbringsaglobaloutlookto hervocation;beforebasingherselfin Singapore,CoughlanlivedinAmsterdam, NewYork,ChicagoandMelbourne, soakingupthevintageandfashionscenes there.She’salsospenttimeinAotearoa —herhusbandisfromNewZealand —andshethinksKiwishaveadistinct, admirablesenseofstyleandappreciation forfashion.

VintageTale

GoingPlaces

3BRIGHTANDBREEZY EXAMPLESOF SINGAPORESTYLE

Anothercolourfulretail destinationis BeyondtheVines Establishedeightyearsago,thebrand blewupin2020whenitsenticingly named“dumplingbag”wentviralwith stylishSingaporeans.It’seasytoseewhy: asquishycross-bodymadefromtechnical fabric,it’srenderedinanassortmentof colours—perfectforwalkingarounda bright,busycity.Thisblendofcheeriness andpracticalityextendstothewhole productoffering;heavyweightT-shirts, fast-dryinggorpcore-esquenylon trousers,jauntystripedshorts(thatlook appealinglikeboxers)andshort-sleeved shirtswouldalldoverynicelyforNew Zealand’scasualdresscodes.

And,ofcourse,uniquetoSingapore, areitsshophousestreetsandcharacterful neighbourhoods,whichretainacharm thatmakesexploringonfootworthwhile. TheArabStandHaijiLndistrictisa colourfulmust-see.Ifheritageisyour thing,makeabeelinefor JooChiat, intheKatongarea,whichhascolourful Pratanghomes,andstreetsofwellmaintainedshophouses(terrace-style anduniquetoSingapore)occupiedbya slowlyevolvingassortmentofbusinesses, witheverythingfromboutiquesandhip cafestofashionlabelsandhairdressers.

It’sherethatyou’llfindhomewarestore CraneLiving,withanenticingmixof modernshapesandnaturalmaterials, it’sworthavisit.Wellington-based SingaporeanPriscillaTanagrees.“Ilove CraneLiving,”shesays.“Theirshopin JooChiatissocharmingandunique. Itisaspecialshoppingdestinationand youcanfindlocalartistsandinteresting collaborationstheycarryintheirstore.”

Theinteriorstylisthasaneyefor aesthetics,whichextendsfromhersleek spacestoherpersonalfashion,and recommendsalsovisiting TheMissing Piece boutique,whoseinteriorshe designed.“Thisismyfavouritestore,” shereveals.“Thisshophasthebestprints andtheirsignaturecut-outpiecesareso flatteringforanybodyshape.Thebest partis,theyhavecasualtobeautiful cheongsamstoo.”

4FUTURE-FOCUSED CONCEPTSTORES

New-generationretailbrands arealsotappingintothe region’sheritage.Bespokestationery andleathergoodsbrand ByndArtisan waslaunchedin2014byJamesQuan andWinnieChan.Hergrandfatherran thelargestbookbinderinSingapore, andhisequipmentnowlivesintheir stores.Theircustomerscancreate everythingfrompersonalisednotebooks —selectingeverythingfromcovers, paperandclosures—tomonogrammed leatheritems.Theconceptofupcycling isacorepartofthebusiness;there’san upcycledcollection,andacollaboration withSingaporeAirlines,nowinitsthird edition,whichseesitrepurposingleather forthecompany’sbusiness-classseats andoffcutsfromproduction.Itsclientele canalsoattendworkshopsonbindingand learnskillsinhand-crafting.

Asenseofcommunityalsoextends toretailinitiativesfromtheSingapore

FashionCouncil,whichmanages themixed-purposeincubatorspace DesignOrchard,establishedin2019 topromotelocaldesigners,createa distinctivefashionidentityandpromote sustainability.Theexpansivegroundfloor housesanimpressiverangeoflabels, rotatingregularly(thestorechanges its“theme”everyfourtoeightweeks), includingSingapore-basedNewZealand designerLontessa.

Blendingculturalbackgroundsand localflavour,therearebreezycottonsand linensdesignedfortheheat,bolddesigns suitableforthecity’ssophisticated restaurantsandbars,andaneclectic rangeofprints.There’salsohomeware andbookstobehad.Everysixmonths isanopencallfordesigners,whopitch theirrangestofeatureonthefloor. DesignOrchardalsohostsactivitiesand workshops,whileupstairsisaco-working area,contentcreationspaceandresources foryoungdesignerslikealibrary,fabrics andpackagingfromsuppliers,anda workroomwithpatterningtablesand industrialsewingmachines.

5

SUITABLESPOTSFORTHE DAPPERSHOPPER

It’snotallaboutbreezytropical design,ofcourse.Asabusiness capital,dapperdressersarewellcatered tohere.Iftailoringisyourthing,arrange avisittosomeofSingapore’sfinest duringyourvisit.Therearethelegacy operations,andmanyarestillinfamily hands; Joe’sTailoring isnowrunby thefounder’sthreechildren,while Meiko Tailor isheadedbythedaughterofthe tailorwhoestablishedthebusiness.CYC dressesa“who’swhoofSingapore”,and there’sanewgenerationofsuitmakers thatincludesMarloBespoke,Common SuitsandSuitYourself.

DepartingtheLionCityalsooffersa chanceforonelastdoseofitsdistinctive retailtherapy.Jewelisthemonumental developmentadjoiningChangiairport, housingamulti-storeywaterfeature andcircularfloorsoffoodandshopping destinations;visitnot-yet-in-NewZealandstoreslikeFredPerry,Muji, Apple,HermesandLongchamp(andif you’reflyingSingaporeAirlines,youcan checkyourbagswhileyou’rethere).

●VivatravelledtoSingaporecourtesyof SingaporeTourismBoard.

“Blendingcultural backgrounds andlocalflavour, therearebreezy cottonsandlinens designedforthe heat,bolddesigns suitableforthe city’ssophisticated restaurantsand bars,andaneclectic rangeofprintsand patterns.”

BeyondtheVines

ByndArtisan ByndArtisan

CraneLiving

DesignOrchard

DesignOrchard

Damien

Palais des Papes from the

(2007), $70

Damien Hirst, The Hours Spin Skull – See the Light (2009), $8000 – $12

Moor head-shaped vase by Abhika (Sicily),

Murano vase by

Marzio Cecchi, Diapason Desk for Studio Most (1968), $20

Live Like A Local

OUR CITY

TESSA LONT

FASHION DESIGNER

With its long history of tailoring and design, thriving fashion scene, and multicultural denizens, Singapore is a savvy base for people in design vocations

It’s helped New Zealander Tessa Lont take her eponymous label to new heights she dresses some of the city’s movers and shakers most recently, returning home to show on the runway at New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria, a collection that was an ode to Māoritanga and her background, from family legacies to her studies in contemporary Māori art

“My grandparents had a large influence on me as I was their first moko,” says Tessa “I was often taken to the marae while they and my parents serviced the community ” Clothes are a family legacy too; her grandmother worked at the Swanndri factory and would make Tessa’s outfits for church

Now, as creative director of her own label, Lontessa, she works across the two pillars of the brand: a made-to-measure couture business, as well as a ready-to-wear

range of designs for everyday life (notably, Singapore’s famously tropical climate) with “small production runs of quality basic products in an attempt to maintain environmentally ethical and conscious values,” she says “We focus on creating meaningful garments for all cultures, personalities, shapes and sizes ”

From a Taranaki town of 7000 people to a city of 5 5 million, what brought her to Singapore? Romance “I met a man; he convinced me to slowly start spending more time here We married in 2019 and had our daughter Maia in 2021 ”

In what could easily be a love story from the silver screen, they now live in the historic and highly sought-after district of Emerald Hill, with rows of elegant, pastelhued shophouses and leafy trees creating an idyllic neighbourhood for their family; and it’s conveniently close to Tessa’s studio on fashion hub Orchard Rd

Where were you before Singapore?

I am from Waitara, Taranaki I spent 10 years in Wellington where I studied industrial design at Massey University I lived in Lisbon for two years, then I lived in Auckland for four years. My plan was to settle back into Waitara for a simple life making garments for my friends, which I started to do in Auckland I guess I wasn’t ready for that yet Life had other plans for me

Can you tell us about where you live now?

I live in a Peranakan shophouse on Emerald Hill Rd This street is one of the conservation areas of Singapore with an interesting history These houses look smaller from the front but once you step inside it’s very narrow and long

The street has a great community, we know a lot of our neighbours, and although the street branches off the busy Orchard Rd it is really quiet and relaxing We can walk our dogs and play with our children along the street

Have you always lived in this spot, or moved around the city?

When I first came to Singapore I stayed at Capella Hotel at Sentosa, which was a serviced duplex It was beautiful but I felt isolated out there as I didn’t know many people We moved to our first Emerald Hill shophouse after 18 months

I live in Singapore because I created a couture business, Lontessa I started with a few racks at my house and now have a showroom at Orchard Delfi I realised there were many big luxury brands, and fastfashion brands here in Singapore I wanted to provide something different and include a personal service where you can pop in and create what you want We also encourage clients to bring back the garments to repair, refit or restore for conscious shopping.

My favourite pastime in Singapore is

Apart from creating amazing garments for my friends, I love swimming and chilling near a pool with my family, the water is always warm

An activity that defines Singapore life is working, shopping and eating

When I want to catch up with friends I usually meet for dinner or invite them to the shop Lately, I have been popping over to Mexico Mamas for a drink afterwards at Orchard Towers

Emma Gleason meets three New Zealanders who call Singapore home

Tessa Lont in her neighbourhood Emerald Hill Photos / Babiche Martens

WhenIneedtochilloutandrelaxI… popoutoftownforacoupleofdays, perhapsbookavillainBaliortakeaferry toBatamforaspaday.

Myfavouriteareaofthecityis… Chinatown,Ilovethevarietyofrestaurants andbarsincloseproximity.

Thebestareaforshoppingis… OrchardRd.Ithasabout40shopping malls,soperhapsmakeaplanbeforeyou headout.

Fornewcomers,I’drecommend… CheckoutMBSandGardensbytheBay, it’simpressive;youfeellikeyouhave steppedintothefuture.Youshouldalso gotoahawkercentreandtryasmany dishesaspossible.

Asecretlocalsknowbutvisitorsdon’tis… Alwayscarryasmallpackoftissues;you needittochope(reserve)yourtablewhile queuingforyourfoodatthehawker.

ThethingIenjoyorlovemostaboutmy cityis… it’sincredibletoseesocialtolerance forrace,religionandculture.Singapore cultureisafusionofmulticulturalism.

Mytop10favouriteplaces

1. LontessaDelfi.Comevisitus!

2. 1880hasgreatfood,cocktailsandreally goodevents.

3. TanjongBeachClubforabeachdayin Sentosa.

4. ShoppingatMBS.It’sfuntocheckout allthebigbrands,havedinnerorlunchat oneoftheincrediblerestaurantsandbook amassageinthehoteltomakeyoufeelon topoftheworld.

5. TakingpeopletoFarEastPlazafora bargain—thereareafewhiddengemsfor custom-madeproducts.

6. TheOtherRoomisasecretcocktailbar belowtheMarriotHotel.

7. PeoplesParkChinatownforfabric supplies.

8. ArabStforfabricshopping.

9. RafflesHotelforthatnext-level luxurystay.

10. Naturelandforafootmassage.

BENROBERTS

TALENTCONSULTANT

Aftertwodecadesofglobetrottingaround someoftheworld’sbiggest,busiestcities (Paris,London,DubaiandSydney),itwas SingaporethatfinallyenticedBentosettle, andhe’scalledithomeforthepastnine years—mostrecentlyinthesoulful,vibrant areaofGeylang.

Inherentlyapeopleperson,Benis warmandgregariouswhenwemeeton ahotSundayafternoon.“I’vealwayshad apassionforpeopleandhelpingthemto realisetheirpotential,”heexplains.

“GrowingupIwasexposedtodifferent culturesandmovedcountriesfrequently, changingschoolsoftenforaperiod.Atthe timethiswastough,butgrowingup Irealiseditgavemeauniqueperspective onunderstandingculturesandbeing abletointegratewithpeopleofdifferent backgrounds.Havingthisfoundation helpedmeconnect,developandsupport others.Empathyisofhugeimportanceand akeyskilltoengagewithpeople.”

Thiseasewithpeoplemakeshimwell

suitedforhiscareerintalentandhuman relations;followingrolesatPublicisGroupe andWPP,heestablishedhisownboutique talentconsultancybusinessacoupleof yearsago,focusedoncreativeandmedia agencies,andwithSingaporeaglobalhub forbusinessandtalent,it’sagoodplaceto beforhiscareer,andforlifetoo.

Benmakesthemostofitslocationfor travellingaroundSoutheastAsia,and enjoyingallthecultureanddynamism Singaporehastooffer.

Canyoutellusaboutwhereyouliveand whatanormaldaylookslike?

IliveinafascinatingareaofSingapore calledGeylang,avibrantmulticulturalarea knownforitsgreatfoodandshophouse architecture.Historicallyitwastheredlightdistrict,butoverrecentyearsithas becomemoregentrified.Thereareamazing 24-hourhawkercentres,easyaccessibility totheCBDandafascinatingdiversemixof people.

Iusuallystartmydaywithasunrisewalk, Ienjoyseeingtheareawakeupwithplenty ofactivityhappeningaspeoplestarttheir days.

Fromthere,Iusuallytakesomecalls fromhomebeforeheadingintothecityfor face-to-facemeetings.Nodayisthesame, whichIlove.Beingabletoconstantlymeet andspeakwithfacesoldandnewisalways apleasure.

MostdaysIwilltrytofitaworkoutin beforewindinguparound6pmandtaking timetodecompresswhilewatchingthe latestshow.

Haveyoualwayslivedinthisspot,or movedaroundthecity?

Initially,Ilivedwest,closetothe BotanicGardens,abeautifulUnesco heritagesiteandtheonlytropical gardenintheworldthatisrecognised byUnesco.ClosetoOrchardRd,thisis agreatfamilyareawhereexpatssettle ineasily.ImovedtoGeylangduring CovidasSingaporewasverystrictin thisperiodandwithnotravel,itfelt invigoratingtoatleastlivesomewhere thatwasbustlingandfullofintrigue.

Atypicalworkdayformeis... speakingtopeople,connectingpeople, advisingpeople.Myjobisallaboutpeople andIloveit.Mydaysaregenerallyspent talkingonthephoneandmeetingfolks inperson.It’sfast-paced,excitingand rewardingwhenI’mabletoprovidepeople withtheopportunitiestheyalwayswanted.

Atypicalweekendformeinvolves… Iliketolivelifeslowonweekendsand taketimetothink,replenishthebodyand mind.Whetherthat’sthroughexploring foodculture,longwalks,orexercise,it’s anopportunityformetolookinternally asopposedtobeingextrovertedandin constantcontactwithpeopleallweek.

AnactivitythatdefinesSingapore… Therearetwoandtheyaregenerally interlinked.Queuingandeating.The passionforfoodishighandSingaporeans willthinknothingofqueuingforhoursfor thelatesttrendyfoodthat’sblownup onTikTok.

MyfavouritepastimeinSingaporeis… ridingbikesthroughthebeautifulEast CoastParkalongthewaterwithmy daughters,Stella,15,andChloe,12.

Thebestfoodcanbefound… everywhere! Singaporecandofinediningandcheap andcheerful;allendsofthespectrumare coveredandpricerangestoo.Checkout foodblogslikeSethlui.comforthelatesthot spots,fromhawkerstoMichelinstars.

Asecretlocalsknowbutvisitorsdon’t… isplacingapackoftissuesoranythingelse, willreserveyourtableatahawkercentre, youcanevenleaveyourlaptopanditwon’t getnicked.

ThethingIenjoyorlovemostaboutmy cityis... thevibrancyofthediverseculture. WhenLeeKuanYew,Singapore’sfirstand inspirationalleaderbecamePrimeMinister in1965aftertheysplitfromMalaysia,itwas importanttohimthatSingaporeanswere partofOneSingapore.Whetherpeople wereofChineseheritage,Indianheritage orMalay,itwasaboutembracingracial harmonyandthat’swhySingaporehasfour nationallanguages(MandarinChinese, Tamil,EnglishandMalay).Helaidthe foundationforacountrytobediverseand that’sempoweringandinspiring.

Mytop10inSingapore

1. NoSleepClubisconsistentlyratedin Asia’stop50bars,andfounderJunisa truecocktailartist.Havethetomyum cocktailforthatSoutheastAsiankick.

2. Col.Acasualyetelegantrestaurant withaneastLondonvibe.Helmedby execchefColinBuchan,who’sworked underMarcoPierreWhiteandGordon Ramsay,thefoodisstunningandthe atmosphereisfantasticwithSophie (Colin’swife)providingagreatfront-ofhouseexperience.

3. MandalaClub.BenJonesandteam havecreatedamembers’clubforan inspiringcommunitythat’sconnected andcreative.Fromamazingpop-upswith topglobalchefstoconversationswith

inspiringleadersandfantasticmusic events,nostoneisleftunturned.

4. ChyeSengHuatHardware.Acoffee shopthatpayshomagetoitsrootsofbeing aformermetalandhardwareshophouse. Eclecticdesignandfabulouscoffee.

5. StrengthClinicAcademyhasa fantasticgymsetupbyhusband-and-wife duoSamBrennanandJasmineDanker. Completewithtop-qualityphysiosand amazingpersonaltrainers,Samand Jasminewillensureyouhityourfitness goalswithasmile(eventually!).TheNew ZealandSevensteamrecentlytrained therewhiletheywereplayingonthe SingaporelegoftheSevenscircuit.

6. J.B.AhMengisaSingaporeinstitution servingsomeofthebestzichar.Everyday theplaceisbrimmingwithenergyand chaos.Themeehoonandwhitepepper crabarethestarsonthemenu.

7. EastCoastPark.Runningparallelto Singapore’scoastalshoreline,thisurban getawayoffersacyclepath,variousdining optionsandplentyofrecreationalspace forsports,evenawaterskilake.Perfectto unwindandrelaxin.

8. ClubStWineroom.OneofSingapore’s greatrestaurateurs,IrishmanAndrew Walshhascreatedtheperfectcosyspot withavariedlistofgreatwines,amazing foodandarelaxingambience.

9. Menbakaramen.OriginallyfromKyoto, thisistheworld’sfirstfireramenjoint. Yousitcounter-sideandwatchthechefs createyourramenwithhugeburstsof flames.Theyevenhaveaplacetohang yourphonetocapturethefireartistry.

10. NationalGallerySingapore.Located withstellarviewsofthecity,theNational Galleryishometosomeofthebestart inSoutheastAsia,aswellasAsia’stop restaurantOdetteandothergreatF&B spots.FormerlytheSupremeCourt,the buildingismagnificentinstature andhistory.

TalentconsultantBenRobertsatJ.B.AhMengRestaurantinGeylang.

Live Like A Local

HONOR HARGER

CURATOR & ARTIST

Originally from Dunedin, Honor’s curatorial career took her around the world London, Newcastle, Brighton, Amsterdam, Zagreb, Berlin, and Riga before she landed in Singapore in 2014 “ArtScience Museum was the catalyst for my move here,” she says It’s a fortuitous role, perfectly suited to her “I have a passion for cultural practice at the intersection of art, science and nature ”

She attributes her deep respect for the latter to growing up in Aotearoa and honed her interdisciplinary approach at ArtSpace in Auckland

“Throughout my career, I have always been passionate about working in a space where art, science, and technology come together, and Marina Bay Sands had built a museum that allows me to do exactly that It was therefore a great pleasure to be granted the opportunity to lead the museum ”

Joining as its executive director, she’s since been promoted to vice-president of ArtScience Museum and Attractions at Marina Bay Sands The institution is part of a new generation of museums that feel it is equally important to focus on the future

“In my role as a curator, a lot of the work I do involves creating programmes, exhibitions, and attractions that help our visitors imagine possible futures,” she explains “It is essential for us to make a change today ”

Her zeal and optimism for her field is palpable and it extends to her relationship with Singapore itself She loves the city “It is one of my favourite places in the world and it enriches me every day ”

Can you tell us about where you live?

I reside in Katong, which is located in

the eastern region of Singapore Both historically and culturally, it is an extremely interesting area of town as it is one of the heartlands of the Peranakan community in Singapore, which is famous for its extraordinary cuisine, unique architecture, and intricate craft forms

With this, I am fortunate to live in a neighbourhood that offers an abundance of fantastic cafes, divine restaurants, and beautiful buildings

I also live near the beach and spend a great deal of time by the seaside, swimming and exploring East Coast Park with my family

Have you always lived there?

It has been about two years since I moved to the East Coast Prior to that, I resided in a neighbourhood called Tanjong Pagar, which is also a fascinating area On top of having a rich history, Tanjong Pagar is perhaps most famous for its many architectural landmarks, such as The Pinnacle, which is one of the world’s tallest public housing estates and also my former residence

A typical work day for me is Balancing the needs of all four attractions that I oversee at Marina Bay Sands and planning exhibitions at ArtScience Museum, with my team of curators and producers

As we are currently developing three exhibitions, including two that are curated in-house, I would need to study gallery plans, the placement of artworks and artefacts, write and edit curatorial texts, collaborate with designers to develop the exhibition’s look and feel, as well as work closely with our marketing and communications teams in order to develop an audience engagement strategy for each exhibition

On any given day, I will also be working with my attractions team on planning programmes and initiatives that keep the experiences at our attractions fresh and enticing A good example of this is the two

new artworks we recently launched at Digital Light Canvas by teamLab Visitors to Graffiti Nature can explore nature by drawing flowers and animals which are then released into a dynamic ecosystem, while Sketch Factory allows them to transform their drawings into T-shirts or tote bags

Another example of this is the new Sampan Musical Voyage that we launched last month, which has our rowers singing a specially commissioned song that pays homage to the historical importance of traditional sampan boats in Singapore

In August, we will be hosting National Day in the Sky, a special celebration of Singapore’s National Day at the SkyPark Observation Deck

In this regard, my work days are always dynamic and diverse, encompassing everything from budgeting and curation to marketing strategies and visitor operations

A typical weekend for me involves going for a jalan jalan (or walk) in one of Singapore’s national parks My family loves walking in the forest or by the seaside

The weekend is also a time for me to visit museums and galleries Some of my favourite places to visit are Asian Civilisations Museum, Singapore Art Museum at Tanjong Pagar Distripark near the port, National Gallery Singapore as well as Science Centre Singapore.

An activity that defines Singapore life is… eating Food really is Singapore’s national obsession, and starting a conversation about food here is the best way to get the locals talking Singapore street food has been recognised by Unesco on their Intangible Cultural Heritage list, so that gives you an idea of how important it is to Singapore

The diverse culinary scene of Singapore also has an abundance of fine-dining restaurants which include Michelin-star establishments CUT and Waku Ghin at Marina Bay Sands or Odette at National Gallery, as well as celebrity chef-led restaurants such as Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen and Wolfgang Puck’s Spago Dining Room From fine dining to street food, eating is definitely one of the things that defines life here

My favourite pastime in Singapore is being immersed in nature Singapore has a diverse range of parks and I visit them as much as I can One of my favourite places in Singapore is Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve

Singapore’s first ASEAN Heritage Park

During my recent visit, I saw many giant monitor lizards, along with the wetland’s resident saltwater crocodile

Thomson Nature Park is also unique for its juxtaposition of nature and culture It sits on the site of a former Hainan village, so you encounter enigmatic ruins as you move through a forest that gives you the impression that a long-lost civilisation might have thrived there As the village was occupied until the 1980s, what may appear to be ancient ruins is actually relatively recent It is quite humbling to see how quickly nature takes over the areas we abandon, erasing everything but the faintest trace of us

A secret locals know but visitors don’t is that Singapore has some of the best libraries in the world

I’m on the board of the National Library Board, which runs Singapore’s extraordinary network of public libraries It has been humbling for me to see just how much the Singapore government cares about these institutions as places of

learning and community gathering There are new and improved libraries opening every year, including the recently opened Punggol Regional Library in the north of the island, which is quite frankly the best public library I have ever seen

The thing I enjoy or love most about my city is the local culture What helped me connect with Singapore was getting to know the local culture through artists and writers Through the work of artists like Lee Wen, Amanda Heng, Robert Zhao Renhui, Donna Ong, Zai Kuning and Tang Da Wu, and writers like Alvin Pang, Pooja Nansi, Jason Wee, Sharlene Teo and Aaron Maniam, I feel I have been able to understand Singapore more deeply than I would have been able to do otherwise

My top 10 favourite places

1. Gardens by the Bay For a unique futuristic experience, don’t miss Singapore’s modern marvel This garden complex, with its two extraordinary domes, is a must-visit location either day or night

2 Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve This nature reserve in the north is the main wild hangout of Singapore’s community of giant reptiles yes, wild crocodiles and monitor lizards, plus lots of migratory birds There is also a great boardwalk that takes visitors through the mangroves. This is a little gem of Singapore that most locals don’t go to, let alone tourists Take mosquito repellant and water

3 East Coast Lagoon Food Village This hawker centre is magical It is right by the sea, so if you arrive at about 6 30pm, you can order incredible fresh seafood, watch the sun go down over the sea, and admire the wall of ships moored as far as the eye can see

4 Singapore Art Museum Not only is this the best place to go to discover contemporary art by Singaporean and Southeast Asian artists, but as the museum is located at Tanjong Pagar Distripark at the port, you also have the unique experience of visiting one of the world’s largest container ports at the same time

5 Tippling Club This incredible fine-dining restaurant on Duxton Rd inspired my love of food The founder and chef, Ryan Clift, is an exceptional artist and an amazing conversationalist

6 MacRitchie Reservoir Beautiful for walking in the forest Don’t miss the Treetop Walk, a dramatic bridge suspended across the canopy Remember to bring water and a camera, as well as keep a lookout for monkeys

7 Tiong Bahru Market This art-deco market is one of the busiest food and flower markets in Singapore and has an excellent food court on the second floor You’ll find it full of locals any day of the week As with all food courts and hawker centres, look for the queues That’s where the best local delicacies are

8. Pulau Ubin A 10-minute boat ride from Changi Point near the airport takes you back in time to Singapore 40 years ago There’s a kampong (village), bikes for hire and nature galore Bring mosquito repellant

9 The Projector It’s not just a local cinema it is the heart of Singapore’s film community and a bastion of indie cool

10. ArtScience Museum Okay, I’m a little biased, but this really is the best place in Southeast Asia to experience immersive art that sits at the crossroads of art, science and nature, with a permanent collection of artworks by teamLab, a VR Gallery and a constantly changing programme of immersive exhibitions

Honor Harger in front of the ArtScience Museum at Marina Bay Sands. Photo / Babiche Martens

S TAY I N G P O W E R

More than just a stopover, Singapore is worth an extended trip, with this iconic island offering visitors everything from Michelinstarred eateries and museums to enlivening beach clubs and even cruises so stay a while!

Bliss out by the beach Famous for its skyscrapers and trees with its busy port industry youd be forgiven for assuming that Singapore didn t serve up beach holidays too On the contrary, this famous destination has an impressive array of seaside options

One of its most famous is Sentosa a picturesque area only 15 minutes from the heart of Singapore that s worth a few nights of your stayover Connected by a bridge to the city (as well as a monorail and cable car!) Sentosa is a small island off Singapore s south coast that s a popular destination for locals and visitors alike due to its familyfriendly fare like Universal Studios Singapore and S E A Aquarium, and one of its most appealing calling cards an elegant array of beach clubs

Located on one of Sentosa’s stretches of white sand and framed by palm trees is the popular Tanjong Beach Club Established 13 years ago as a contemporary haven of relaxation and activity with a modern riviera-style vibe it s been listed among the world s best beach bars Open every day of the week, it offers a fusion of restaurant, bar and nightclub for its patrons, and the coastal-inspired menu makes the most of seafood and holiday classics

Arrive early (and book ahead) for Sunday brunch and sunshine; have a swim then enjoy a healthy açai bowl with mango berries and toasted coconut alongside one of the impressive smoothie options For a social gettogether, you can t go past the sharing dishes like burrata or oysters, impressive larger plates like crab linguini, a classic lobster roll or the Instagram-worthy seafood platter matched with a tropical cocktail or Champagne And if revelry is your thing then regular DJ sets offer the chance to dance the night away

For a mindful sophisticated stay with a dash of history then consider the luxury accommodation of The Barracks Hotel Sentosa Located in a restored heritage building that dates back to 1904, it serves up an oldworld feeling to a contemporary traveller Book in for an elegant afternoon tea session with tiered treats and freeflowing champagne and make sure to savour the fare from the hotel restaurant Bedrock Origin which serves time-honoured delicacies like dry-aged steak renowned Jamon Iberico de Bellota from Spain caviar and aged barramundi

After all that eating, a walk is needed, so make time to

explore the grounds see the architecture and soak up the history If youd like to learn more then the hotel offers a walking tour for guests; curated by heritage specialist Jerome Lim it s led by local veterans Winston Wong and Khor Sing Hong and is a must-book for your stay You can also explore the past further afield with bookable tours of wider Singapore available to arrange from the hotel

Bintan is another famous coastal destination that can be easily included in a stayover or holiday This island is an hour s ferry trip from Singapore and is located on the Riau archipelago of Indonesia (you can see Indonesia from Singapore) and New Zealand passport holders receive a Visa on arrival for 500 000 Indonesia Rupiah (preferably in cash)

It features a variety of accommodation options, catering to every taste from colourful chalets to Club Med there s even a hotel made from an old passenger vessel Doulos Phos The Ship Hotel Is a luxurious beachside villa more your style? Then the idyllic Banyan Tree Bintan is just the thing with intimate thatch-roof bungalows each with an ocean view the South China Sea and verdant surrounds Nestled amongst the greenery villas are designed in a sophisticated Indonesian style with dark wooded details and neutral textiles creating an elegant interior to enjoy Particularly notable among its nine styles of villas is the Kelong design the first floating villa in Bintan

This romantic five-star boutique resort also has a private beach and award-winning spa For those that like a little exercise strap on a snorkel there are snorkelling tours off the coast of the island or explore the blue lake

or man-made desert oasis Gurun Pasir Busung tour the ecologically important mangroves of Sebung River day or night (to see the fireflies) or tee off on the golf course

In fact golf is a drawcard for many of Bintan visitors; the island’s award-winning courses are worth the trip alone if the sport is your passion Laguna Bintan Golf Course is set on 60 hectares of land that includes wetlands and historic geological formations; there s also Ria Bintan Golf Club which has an 18-hole ocean-side course, and a nine-hole course located in the forest, making for an unforgettable turn on the greens

If unwinding is more your cup of tea, then Bintan’s many tranquil spas offer the chance to relax and recharge and are a popular drawcard for travellers to this island paradise Banyan Tree Spa is renowned for its massages which draw from Indonesian expertise and local ingredients

For more cultural practices and history, explore the island during your visit Riaus capital, Tanjung Pinang Town, was a historic trading hub, with Dutch colonial architecture still around today as are the traditional local wet markets while the nearby village of Senggarang continues to practice old customs In Kijang on the island s south side Buddhist temple Vihara Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva is an impressive location of culture and faith featuring 500 life-sized statues and it s a captivating sight to behold on an island full of eyecatching sights

NEED TO KNOW

How: National carrier Singapore Airlines offers direct flights from Auckland and Christchurch to Singapore s famous Changi Airport

When: Though Singapore enjoys warm, tropical weather year-round, the most advisable months to visit are March through August

Who: House of Travel can help create your ultimate Singapore itinerary

For more inspiration go to www houseoftravel co nz/singapore or to book, contact your local House of Travel consultant on 0800 713 715

MUSTVISIT MUSEUMS

Ifimpressiveurbanformand innovationarewhyyoutravel, Singaporeistheplaceforallthat andmore.Inacityfamedforits distinctivebuildings,creating somethingeye-catchingisno meanfeat—ataskthatthe ArtScienceMuseumachieves inspades,withitsbreathtaking lotus-shapeddesignthat confoundsnotionsofgravity andarchitecture,projectingup intotheskyfromthesurrounds ofMarinaBaySandsreclaimed harboursideland.

Justasimpressiveiswhat’s inside.Asitsnamesuggests,its mandatemeldsartandculturewith scienceandtechnology—notunlike Singaporeitself—andthemuseumhasa regularlychangingprogramme.Theimmersive natureexhibition,SensoryOdyssey:IntotheHeart ofOurLivingWorld,isonuntilOctober29,takingyou aroundplanetEarthinamulti-sensoryexperience,andisthefirststopon itsglobaltour.AlsotransportiveisFutureWorld:WhereArtMeetsScience, aninteractivedigitalinstallationthat’soneofthemuseum’spermanent exhibitions.Otheryear-roundexperiencesincludetheimpressiveVRGallery, andapurpose-builtcinema.

Foracoolmuseumexperienceofadecidedlydifferentflavour,headto theMuseumofIceCream.ItsSingaporeoutpostistheonlyoneoutsideof theUSA,andthisticketeddestinationfeatures12differentmulti-sensory installations—billedasa“sprawlingplayscape”—thatsharethehistoryand sciencebehindthisbeloveddish,aswellasaveryInstagrammablevintageinspireddiner,whereyoucantemperthat(unlimited)icecreamwithastrong coffeeora“YummyGummyNegroni”.Thedessertbar,meanwhile,isopen tothepublic,andservesupflavoursbythescoop,sundaesandicecream sandwiches(naturally)aswellaspastriesandevenpizza.Peopleofallages willlovethismuseum,andtheconceptinvitesgueststoconnectwiththeir innerchild,experiencejoyandindulgetheirsweettoothunapologetically. Coolindeed!

GETTINGAROUND

• PickupanEZ-Linkcard fromanyTransitLinkTicketOffice.Thesecan beusedonSingapore’sbusesandtrains,makingitsimpleandefficient togetaroundthismarvellousmetropolis.

• DownloadtheGrabapp. Thisisthemainride-shareservice(similarto Uber)usedinSingapore.Easyandaffordable,youcanpaybycashorcard.

• Creditcardsareaccepted atmanyplaces,thoughit’sgoodtohave someSingaporeDollarsonyouifyou’revisitingsmallshopsormarkets, orpayingfortaxis.

• Don’tchewgum (mostareillegal)anddodrinkwater,lotsofit–the climateishot,andtapwaterissafetodrink.

• Register withSafetravel.govt.nzonceyouarrive.

Formoreinspirationgotohouseoftravel.co.nz/singaporeortobook, contactyourlocalHouseofTravelconsultanton0800713715

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MICHELIN-WORTHY MEALS

Avisit to Singapore isn t complete without tasting its wide-ranging, world-class food destinations

Not surprisingly for such a visionary city though no less impressive it boasts many Michelin-starred eateries encompassing everything from fine-dining restaurants to shiny malls and some of the citys famed hawker centres

One that s garnered acclaim and is worth a visit is Art di Daniele Sperindio Located above the impressive National Gallery, chef and owner Daniele Sperindios restaurant has earned a Michelin star for its neoItalian menu inspired by his home country His food is exacting and modern reinterpreting classical dishes with an innovative approach and considerable attention to detail This can be best enjoyed through the seven-course tasting menu an expansive feast that traverses Sperindios many influences and memories and appreciation of the finest produce

Another impressive restaurant, with a decidedly different approach is Zen with boasts not one but three Michelin stars and serves up a truly unique dining experience Bjorn Frantzens innovative Singapore establishment (an extension of his Stockholm restaurant) is located in a three-storey shophouse on Bukit Pasoh Guests traverse the different floors through their meal from snacks in the kitchen to desserts in the living room, and many meals in between with their tastebuds transported by the gastronomic journey of the restaurant s wide-ranging Nordic-Japanese menu

BRILLIANT BARS

With so many skyscrapers and impressive views rooftop bars have become something of a signature for Singapore Mr Stork has a lively laid-back vibe, and the best spots are tucked away in the greenery of the balcony For a colourful retro-feel evening head to Las Palmas LeVel 33 can boast the highest urban craft brewery in the whole world and is the perfect place to try some of Singapores local beer The balcony seating at Vue on Collyer Quay faces out clever and gives you a view of the famous monolithically modern Marina Bay Sands Hotel You can drink there too; it has

its own rooftop bars, Ce La Vi and Spago Bar & Lounge where you ll feel like you ’ re on top of the world

Another category of bar that’s been embraced by the city’s denizens and visitors is the speakeasy which has enjoyed a return to favour in recent years and in such a busy buzzy city as Singapore the secrecy and intimacy of hidden locations and hard-to-find entrances make these alluring prospects

Taylor Adam as its name suggests, is located behind a tailor shop in Raffles Place Perch at the bar or nestle into one of the intimate booths and enjoy the menu, suitably tailored to its clientele of globally inspired cocktails fitting of Singapores history of trade and international influence inspirations range from everything from Japans traditional yatai food stalls to South Korean strawberries Hong Kongs Sheung Wan district the Pornstar Martinis of Surrey England and more inventive concoctions

Speaking of inventive, over at Mama Diams you ll find a hip bar hidden behind a quirky shopfront inspired by those of the 1980s and 1990s

WHERE TO STAY:

Orchard Rendezvous Hotel

Chic and conveniently placed in the heart of the city this hotel is located at the beginning of Orchard Rd Rooms feature a classic elegance, and there are 11 room categories available, catering to everyone from families to loved-up couples looking for a romantic rendezvous

Hotel dining will appeal to every possible taste, and includes two Japanese eateries, the Mexican-inspired Café Iguana, craft-beerfocused Brewerks bistro Hong Kong-style Kam Boat Restaurant and more

Work up an appetite for all of the above with some retail therapy A stay at this luxurious hotel will place you in the heart of Singapore’s famous shopping district a neighbourhood home to luxury brands gleaming malls even more excellent eateries and nightlife hotspots

This all-day appeal extends to the hotel itself which offers 24-hour concierge and guest services facilities like a fully equipped gym and outdoor pool on-site parking and self-service laundry (good for independent guests and longer stays)

CONSIDERACRUISE

Singaporehaslongbeenaseafaring destination,andtodayitalsoenjoys aworthypositioninthecruise circuit.Thecityboaststwodedicated terminalsfortheimpressiveships thatcomeitsway,cateringforall sizesthatcometoport.Larger vesselsdockatMarinaBay,while smallerboatsheadtoSingapore CruiseCentre,locatedcloseto Sentosa.Andwiththecity-stateso closetoitsneighbouringcountries (someareliterallywithinsight)it’sa superbhubtoventureoutfromon thehighseas.

Theregal,award-winningship RoyalCaribbeanSpectrumofthe SeasisbasedinSingaporeuntil April2024,andoffersthechance toexploreAsiabyboat.Departing Singapore,itofferscruisesto Malaysia(threenights)andThailand (fournights).There’salsothefivenight“SpiceofSoutheastAsiaCruise” whichincludesbothcountries, stoppingbyPenangandPhuket respectively.

FancyasojourninBali,departing fromSingapore?Anthemofthe Seas,whichwillbeintownfrom November2024,haseight-night cruisestothispopulardestination, portinginCelukanBawang,Benoa andLombok.Forashorterstint, consideritsthree-nightPenang cruise—aneasyadd-ontoyour holidayitinerary,onethat’salready brimmingwithallthetreasures Singaporehastooffer.

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Going Places

Join the Club

Forexpatslookingto expandtheirnetwork in anewenvironment, private member clubs arethekeyto athriving and exclusive community,writes Jamie Nonis

With its endless array of dining and entertainment options, Singapore has no shortage of world-class establishments to keep the most discerning bon vivant busy

But it’s the desire to be a part of a thriving and exclusive community of professionals that has inspired an influx of new private members clubs in recent years

A designer aesthetic, first-rate amenities and astute programming are the hallmarks of these sophisticated spaces For many expats looking to expand their network in a new environment, it’s the sense of community that’s the real draw

“It’s the programming, followed by the community,” says Preeti Gupta, a director in the automotive industry who joined Mandala Club last year “Since joining, I’ve had a chance to experience a lot of interesting events, be it exploring unique culinary experiences, participating in health and wellness activities or simply networking ”

For 1880 member Pete Duckett, it was finding a space to entertain clients that also had co-working facilities The club provides a “social escape ” for the chief innovation officer in the tech sector “They have done well to expand their programming and have a more relaxed atmosphere on weekends with live music,” he says

MANDALA CLUB

Not the newest or most established, but by far the hippest Mandala Club has been making waves and all the right

moves since it opened in 2021 Located near Singapore’s bustling Chinatown, the 2072sq m club spans four storeys of a 1928 shophouse that has been conferred conservation status The vibe is heritage hip, with every floor profferring distinctive design concepts and beautifully furnished spaces with art deco influences

The ground floor is an open concept event space aptly named The Canvas that has hosted events with car brands such as Porsche On level two you’ll find Popi’s Dining Room, Bar & Garden, The Analogue Room and my personal favourite, The Library, which is a distinguished-looking space where you won’t be out of place with an old fashioned cocktail in hand

There are two more hidden spaces on the second level: The Tasting Room, an intimate 10-seater saloon ideal for wine and cocktail masterclasses, and the Private Terrace for outdoor gatherings

More stylish settings await on the third floor including The Straits Parlour, with its chic lounge vibe, as well as The Orchid Room and The Palm Room, both tucked away in private corners for when discretion is favoured

Then, there’s The Den, another favourite spot, oozing opulence with plush leather armchairs, a cosy fireplace and a bespoke cigar menu

The Cellar, meanwhile, houses more than 1000 rare and notable wines, champagnes and spirits for all palates, while 12-seat omakase restaurant Mori celebrates contemporary Hokkaido fusion cuisine

Finally, the gym in the attic on level

Mandala Club

four allows members to enter the club discreetly, work out then shower up and look fabulous before heading down for the many glamorous parties and events on the club’s calendar

Its eclectic design aesthetic has won Mandala Club many fans in the island city, as has its specially curated events line-up you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else

The Mandala Masters series features culinary collaborations with some of the world’s finest names in gastronomy such as three Michelin-starred Mirazur restaurant in France, and renowned Indian chef Gaggan Anand

Mandala’s second Singapore outpost, Mandala at M.O., opened in September in a 21st-floor penthouse at Mandarin Oriental hotel, and joins the growing brand of Mandala Clubs around the world, including Bali and next up in Niseko, Japan

1880

“It’s like you cheat on your perspectives for one night,” is how one member describes 1880 Founded in 2017 by Marc Nicholson, 1880 was borne of a desire to create a salon for discourse where thought-provoking talks, dialogues and conversations pulse in stunning spaces Where curiousness is a prerequisite and a passion for ideas and expression is the price of admission

The club has hosted esteemed speakers such as three-time Pulitzer Prize winner Thomas Friedman, Nobel Prize winner Sir Richard Roberts, Nobel Peace Laureate Kailash Satyarthi, philanthropist Peggy Dulany Rockefeller and more

Think soul food in soulful spaces designed with an upscale atmosphe accented with Asian influences by London-based Timothy Oulton Studio Housed within the InterContinental Singapore Robertson Quay hotel complex, the club offers myriad concept spaces for members to enjoy intimate get-togethers, five-minute powwows or last-minute liaisons at Arthur’s Bar, The Double and Leonie’s, helmed by executive chef Colin Buchan (a Gordon Ramsay, Marco Pierre White and Jason Atherton restaurant alum) Members also have access to reciprocal clubs around the world, including new 1880 clubs in Hong Kong and Bali

67 PALL MALL

“Grand” best describes the newest kid on the block, 67 Pall Mall Opened in March last year, this is the first Asian outpost of the prestigious London club for wine lovers, and its third club globally after Verbier, Switzerland

Two more clubs are slated to open in Bordeaux and Beaune in France in 2025

The 1394sq m club is spread over the 27th and 28th floors of Shaw Centre

“A designeraesthetic, first-rate amenities and astute programming are thehallmarks ofthese sophisticated spaces For manyexpatslookingto expandtheirnetworkin a newenvironment, it’sthe sense of communitythat’s the real draw.”

in the heart of Singapore’s famous Orchard Rd shopping belt, with the penthouse being the former private residence of the late movie magnate Tan Sri Runme Shaw, who made his fortune as a pioneer in the early film industry in Asia

Its S$14 million renovated interior therefore pays homage to the corridors of time and place, borrowing inspiration from Chinese and Malay films of the 1950s and 1960s, while floor-to-ceiling windows proffer marvellous 270-degree views over the city

The Singapore outpost stays true to the original club’s ethos of making fine and rare wines accessible to its members Here, you’ll find what’s said to be the largest and most diverse wine list in Southeast Asia curated by Master of Wine Richard Hemming, with his 15-strong sommelier team on hand to offer members expert guidance on the expansive selection of 5000 wines, including 1000 available by the glass

As a tribute to the London club’s namesake spirits den, two intimate spaces have been carved out for further savouring of fine spirits: The Naughty Corner, which sits in what was once the bedroom of the penthouse, and Whisky Bar on the upper level

Members enjoy access to masterclasses and themed tastings on the club’s busy calendar of topdrawer events, as well as the privilege of storing their own wines in the club’s humidity-controlled cellars

33CLUB

Opulence is the order of the day at 33Club, a distinguished lifestyle space

touted as Asia’s first private members club for luxury timepieces

Located in the Central Business District, the club opened its doors in November last year as an exclusive space for an esteemed clientele of CEOs, entrepreneurs, founders and savvy investors to come together, network and bond over a shared love for all things horology

Through the club’s bespoke watch sourcing service and other white glove services, members can gain access to rare timepieces that are often traded privately and rarely surface in the public market

Why “33”? Because it sounds like the word “rising” in Mandarin from which the club’s sundial concept and aesthetic is inspired

Designed by award-winning Syrenka Studio, the 390sq m club celebrates the art of watchmaking in luxurious surrounds spread over two floors

From the outside, you’d probably assume this is yet another high-end retail watch boutique (of which there are plenty in Singapore)

But venture within past the posh displays of limited-edition Rolexes, Patek Philippes and Richard Milles and you’ll find a restaurant and bar offering an exquisite dining experience along with a fetching selection of rare, collectible wine vintages and rare cask whiskies

On the second floor you’ll find a boutique spa where both members of 33Club and the public can relax and indulge in facials and massage treatments using premium skincare products from German beauty care brand Dr Baumann

67 Pall Mall Photo / Daniel Koh

1880

Mandala Club kitchen

SALUT, SKINCARE!

There were plenty of celebrations to be had at the Avène and Viva long lunch, in honour of the skincare maker’s newest launch

Skincare arbiters convened for lunch, learning and a toast to French expertise, hearing from industry experts about the science behind the range

The French are known for many things their prolific wineries edible delicacies, and not least, their groundbreaking skincare innovations

All three culminated at the exclusive Avène and Viva long lunch hosted at modern French restaurant Origine last month, where the Viva team were joined by 20 influential skincare arbiters to celebrate the launch of Avènes newest innovation Hyaluron Activ B3

In between courses which included gravlax de saumon and charcuterie, Viva beauty editor Ashleigh Cometti welcomed Janis McNicholas head of medical sales and training at Pierre Fabre Laboratories Australia and Dr Vania Sinovich qualified dermatologist and founder of The Skin Company to discuss the effects of ageing on the skin and how Avène s new Hyaluron Activ B3 range could help

The three-strong Hyaluron Activ B3 collection encompasses the Concentrated Plumping Serum Renewal Firming Cream and Intensive Night Cream and is geared towards those experiencing the second stages of ageing (or when wrinkles are deeper set) Clinical trials conducted by Avène found that 76 per cent of wrinkles and fine lines were less visible*, and after 15 days skin was revitalised** and appeared firmer***

Formulated with Thermal Spring Water Avènes hero ingredient used throughout its skincare line, Janis explained how the new Hyaluron Activ B3 range is by far the brands most innovative yet

It s my favourite range because of how it really targets the signs of ageing And for me, that s something quite close to my heart at the moment It s a beautiful range to start with those fine lines wrinkles and loss of radiance she explained

Backed by dermatologists Janis shared valuable insights into the research and development process of the range by Pierre Fabre Laboratories

As a pharmaceutical company we re always looking at innovative ways of creating new and exciting formulas that really are going to help the quality of life of patients and consumers And this particular range is no exception ” Janis said

Created in collaboration with leading global ageing cell specialist Professor Jean-Marc Lemaitre, Janis spoke of the science behind the skincare, which took six years to develop Professor Lemaitre, aka the Master of Time, worked in conjunction with Avènes in-house research and development professor to formulate a skincare range which helps reduce the visible signs of ageing at a cellular level His findings into the concept of cell senescence, or the process of deterioration with age, showed that as one cells activity decreases the impact is catching causing surrounding cells to become senescent too The result? Decreased cell renewal and speeding up the ageing process resulting in wrinkles lines and sagging

Our local expert on skin ageing Dr Vania took the

floor to explain why we experience volume loss or laxity in the skin as we age

There are two types of ageing intrinsic and extrinsic ageing Intrinsic ageing is largely unavoidable and refers to age-related changes which are usually genetically determined This only accounts for 10% of ageing Extrinsic ageing is more modifiable It is largely due to cumulative sun exposure and its premature aging of the skin Other factors include smoking and to a lesser extent air pollution and lifestyle factors such as diet alcohol stress and illness Dr Vania Says

Dr Vania stressed the importance of defending against ultraviolet light particularly UVA rays by selecting a good broad-spectrum protection sunscreen rated SPF50 or higher - not to mention skincare laced with efficacious ingredients

Avène’s Hyaluron Activ B3 range contains a proprietary blend of youth-boosting skincare ingredients including a concentration of niacinamide two forms of hyaluronic acid and collagen-booster retinal - from 90 per cent natural origin ingredients In broad terms, Dr Vania shared the myriad benefits of each ingredient, and how they can promote a more radiant, smoother complexion

“Retinal is the gold standard of cosmeceuticals It was first used in the 1970s in topical vitamin A prescription formulations to treat acne, but it was quickly recognised that this reduced wrinkles, age spots and sunspots, she said

It is the skin s regulator It promotes collagen production which puts the brakes on processes that break down collagen and is great for uneven skin tone and oily skin types It s also good at knocking out the free radicals that come with ultraviolet light exposure every day

Its use comes with a warning, as Dr Vania says most people need to build up a tolerance to vitamin A-based products to avoid any skin irritation or barrier damage You have to introduce it slowly, because if you go too quickly or apply too much it can cause irritation, she said

Dr Vania loves niacinamide for its multi-tasking properties its suitability for uneven skin tone or pigmentation and its ability to promote collagen and address redness

For someone whos got acne or eczema-prone skin it doesn t tend to irritate them as much as say a vitamin C or vitamin A-based product she said Hyaluronic acid is what Dr Vania calls the great hydrator

Basically it s a sugar molecule It s a water magnet and attracts 1000 times its body weight meaning it’s so wonderful at plumping up dehydrated ageing skin ” she said

With a few heads nodding in agreement in the crowd, Janis continued by explaining how the different molecular weights of the key ingredients contained within each product impacted their absorbency into the skin

“We have two different types of hyaluronic acid one molecule with a high molecular weight which will sit on top of the skins surface to provide moisture Then we ve got an intermediate molecular weight, which absorbs deeper into the layers of the skin, she said

Now for the fun part how best to incorporate Avènes three new products into your own skincare regime?

After conducting a patch test Janis recommended starting with twice daily cleansing using a cleanse that s suited to your skin type

Next a spritz of Avènes iconic Thermal Spring Water

which serves as an important skincare step and can be used to revive makeup throughout the day, too

Followed by the Avène Hyaluron Activ B3

Concentrated Plumping Serum, which boasts an aqua gel texture which smooths beautifully onto the skin

Janis recommended a layer of the Renewal Firming Cream for daytime (with your chosen sunscreen on top) or the Intensive Night Cream before you snooze

There are even greater innovations in the pipeline Janis teased adding that refillable options will soon be added to the range

With the formalities over guests were invited to swatch the products with many squeals of delight being heard around the table as mains of contre-filet or poisson du jour were served

As champagne flutes clinked and the jubilant mood continued guests were sent on their way not only with the products but a fresh understanding of the skin ageing process and a sound knowledge on how best the new range can care for their skin

The new Avène Hyaluron Activ B range is available online and in-store at pharmacies, including Chemist Warehouse, Life Pharmacy, Bargain Chemist and Unichem Pharmacies

*Consumer Use Test on 128 consumers applied daily for 28 days

**Consumer Use Test on 65 consumers applied daily for 28 days

***Consumer Use Test on 70 consumers applied nightly for 28 days

GardenParty

Nothingcapturestheromanticismand renewalofspringquitelikefragrance, writesAshleighCometti

1 2 3

inclusionofnaturalpearextractinits formula.Thisspring-readyscentconjures imagesofasunnyorchard,branches heavingwithjuicygreenpears,lacedwith softlyscentedsweetpeaflorals.

Fragrancefamily: Fruity/floral Whatitsmellslike: TopnotesofWilliams pear,aheartofsweetpea,andawhite muskbase.

3D.S.&DURGA

SteamedRainbow50mleaude parfum, $317

Whatitis: Everwonderedwhatarainbow smellslike?D.S.&Durgaco-founder DavidSethMoltztookituponhimselfto bottletheopticalphenomenondrawing onmaterialsofallsevencoloursofthe rainbow.Delicateinnature,Moltzused eachmaterialindifferentproportionsto reflectthehumidconditionsinwhicha rainbowappears.

There’safreshsenseofoptimism intheairnowthatit’s springtime.Usheredinbythe shiftinweatherandflowersin bloom,springisatimeofreinvention— symbolisingnewbeginningsandfresh starts.Andwhatsimplerwaytoembrace thevibrantnewseasonthanwithascent thatcapturestheperenniallyhopeful feelingthatSeptemberbrings.

Wheretogetit: AvailablefromtheJo MaloneLondonBritomartboutique andselecteddepartmentstores, includingSmith&Caughey’soronlineat Smithandcaugheys.co.nz.

sp sh bloom,sprin symbolising starts.And thevibrant thatcapture feelingthat

2

ELIZABETHARDEN

Fragrancefamily: Citrus

Whatitsmellslike: Topnotesofblood redmandarin,orangeandyellowelemi (afragrantresinwhichhighlightsspicy, balsamicnotes),aheartofgreencedar, bluealmondblossomandindigograss, andabaseofvioletandvetiver.

Wheretogetit: AvailablefromMeccaor onlineatMeccabeauty.co.nz.

Whilethe selectingrich woodynote springfragr instantlifti

Whilethedoldrumsofwinterhadus selectingrichcologneshighlightingcosy, woodynotes,thereareplentyofnew springfragrancesonofferthatpromisean instantliftinmood.

teet da or be

Fromgou teethinto,to daytime,sen airyaqua belowwesha best fragran

Fromgourmandnotestosinkyour teethinto,toclassicwhitefloralsfor daytime,sensualaromaticsfordatenight, orairyaquaticsforseasidesojourns, belowweshareeightofthe bestfragrancestotrythisseason.

WhiteTeaEauFraiche100ml eaudetoilette, $105 Whatitis: Afreshiterationonthe original,ElizabethArden’snewestchapter intheWhiteTeastorycelebratesacomingleofupliftingcitrusanddelicate whiteflorals.Developedusingthebrand’s proprietyVivaScentztechnology,the fragranceisdesignedtoimpartasense ofwellbeingtothewearer(somethingwe couldalldowithalittlemoreof).Unlike itspredecessors,WhiteTeaEauFraiche iscraftedusingnaturallyderivedalcohol andis100percentvegan.

4HERMÈS

TuttiTwillyD’Hermès85mleau deparfum, $255

1JOMALONELONDON

EnglishPear&SweetPea100ml cologne, $272 Whatitis: “Onepearineverybottle”is thetaglinelinkedtoJoMaloneLondon’s newestoffering—pertainingtoits

Fragrancefamily: Fruity/floral Whatitsmellslike: Topnotesofblood orange,bergamot,mandarinoiland Anjoupear,aheartoflilyofthevalley, waterlilyandmarineaccord,setamonga tonkabean,blondewoodandmuskbase. Wheretogetit: Availablefromselected departmentstoresandpharmacies includingLifepharmaciesoronlineat Lifepharmacy.co.nz.

Whatitis: DreamedupbySwissmaster perfumerChristineNagel,Hermès newestolfactionushersinaneweraof theHermèsgirl—amulti-faceted,freespiritedwoman.Thevesselissignificant, too,re-imaginedintoasquarebyParisian illustratorFlorenceManlik,anddressed upwithHermèshallmarksilkmétier,also calledtwilly.

Fragrancefamily: Fruity

Whatitsmellslike: Topnotesoflitchi,aheart ofgingerflowersetamongamuskbase.

Wheretogetit: Availableexclusively fromSmith&Caughey’soronlineat Smithandcaugheys.co.nz.

NEVERMISS ABEAT.

GO BOLDLY

Daretobedifferent?

Thesemoody, enigmaticscentsare gearedtowardspeople ofallwalksoflife

1

AESOP

Ouranon50mleaudeparfum, $265

Whatitis: Ouranonmarksthesixth andfinalfragranceintheOthertopias story,whichstartedadriftintheocean withMiraceti,movedashorewith Karst,unearthedaverdantwasteland withEremia,exploredtheouterand innerselfwithEidesisandGloam respectively,beforeendingthe journeywithOuranon.Thewoody, spicyscentevokestheenduring stateofmonolith—anotherworldly placeofquietcontemplationand persistence.

Fragrancefamily: Woody/aromatic

Whatitsmellslike: Topnotesof petitgrain,elemiandlavender,a heartofflowerhay,chamomileand frankincense,andabaseofmyrrh, tonkaandpatchouli.

Wheretogetit: AvailablefromAesop signaturestores,selecteddepartment storecountersandAesop.com.

3 4

2

YSLMYSLF100mleaude parfum, $245

Whatitis: Acomplex,woody-floral fragrancefrontedby Elvis actorAustin Butler,MYSLFexploresmasculinity anditsmanynuances.Housedina sleekglassvessel,everyformatofthe fragranceisrefillable,signifyingthe House’scommitmenttotheenvironment byreducingitspackagingwaste.

Fragrancefamily: Woody Whatitsmellslike: Topnotes ofCalabrianbergamotandvert debergamot,aheartofTunisian orangeblossom,setamongabaseof Indonesianpatchouliandambrofix (asyntheticfragrancenotelike ambergris).

Wheretogetit: Selecteddepartment storesincludingFarmers,oronlineat Farmers.co.nz.

3VERSACE ErosPourHomme100ml parfum, $214

Whatitis: Anhomagetothe Greekgodoflove,Versacedesigner DonatellaVersacesaysErosconveys “auniquefeelingofsensuality, confidenceandinnerstrength”.The bottleisanodtotheturquoisewaters oftheMediterranean,engraved withtheHouse’ssignaturecipher— evokingGreco-Romanartandculture.

Fragrancefamily: Aromatic Whatitsmellslike: Topnotesofmint, candyapple,lemonandmandarin orange,aheartofambroxan(with caramel-likequalities),geraniumand clarysage,andabaseofvanilla,cedar, sandalwood,bitterorange,patchouli andleather.

Wheretogetit: Availablefrom Farmersdepartmentstoresand Lifepharmacies,oronlineat Lifepharmacy.co.nz.

4JEANPAULGAULTIER

LeMaleElixir125ml, $230

Whatitis: HousedinJean PaulGaultier’ssignaturesailorbust, LeMaleElixirbuildsontheHouse’s iconicLeMalefragrancewithafresh interpretationontheoriginal—one whichstrikesabalancebetween strengthandtenderness.Intensely aromatic,thecologneisdescribedas themostpowerfulofallthreeLeMale scents,withalastingscenttrail.

Fragrancefamily: Amber Whatitsmellslike: Topnotesof lavenderandmint,aheartofvanilla andbenzoin(amusky,spicy,sweet note),andabaseofhoney,tonkabean andtobacco.

Wheretogetit: Availablefromselected departmentstoresandpharmacies, includingLifepharmaciesoronlineat Lifepharmacy.co.nz.

98.2FM

RETURNOF THEPRINCE

JesseMulligan

celebratestherevival ofnight-timedining atAucklandicon OrphansKitchen

Istruggletothinkofanyoneperson who’simprovedthiscity’sfoodscene asmuchasTomHishonhas.His launchofDailyBreadwasexactly whatweneeded,whenweneededit—not thatanyoneevercomplainedaboutbeing unabletobuyfermentedsourdoughat SuperetteNewmarket,buthowgoodisit nowthatyoucan?Therewasalreadythis sortofbreadavailableinAucklandbut mostofitwasn’tasgoodasDailyBread’s is,andcertainlywasn’tproducedatthat sortofscale.TheflagshipinPointChev hasbeenrammedsincethedayitopened in2018andincaseanybodythought thatwasjustatrend,thenewBritomart outlethasrecentlybeengetting“thesort ofqueuesI’veneverseeninNewZealand before”,accordingtoonechefIknowwho worksnearby.

(Thisisn’tachildcarecolumnbutI shouldalsomentionhowmuchbetter youfeelaboutkids’lunchesonceyou’ve switchedthemontoDaily,viathewhite sourdoughandthenontothePioneer; childrenliveonsandwiches,andit’san amazingbreakthroughtogetthemoffthe processedsupermarketstuffandontoa loafthat’sbeenproperlyfermented.)

Beyondthebakery,thereisTom’spart intheWithWildwapitivenisonproject, alreadywell-documentedinthese pages,andofcoursetherestaurants.

Kingihasbecomeanicon,aproperly flashBritomartdiningroomwithbig aspirationsandmoreroomstilltoget better.OrphansKitcheniswhereI recentlysentahugeinternationalguest foracoffeemeeting—knowingthat thoughitmightnothavethepredictable polishofabigcorporatejoint,itwould bethebestpossibleexampleofAuckland cafeculture.

OrphanswaswhereIheldmy40th birthdayparty,wheremywifehadher hen’sdinner.It’swhereweusedto stopforacheeserollandalongblack post-lockdownwhenwindowservice wasallowedandwejustwantedtosee strangers’facesagain.Andnowaftera fewyearsdarkit’sbackopenfordinner —presumablybecauseKingiisrunning wellunderitsownsteamandTomis readyagaintomakeuseofthisgreat Ponsonbyspaceafter4pm.

Hospitalitystaffprobablyhaveenough toworryaboutonthefirstnightofbusiness withoutarestaurantcriticshowingup,but I’msorryguys,Icouldn’tavoidit—Iwas headingtoJapanthatweekendandneeded tobankadinnerbeforeIwent.Luckily therewerenofirst-nightnerves,justafew emptychairs(it’ssohardtoget agaugehowbusythingsareoutthereright now—afriendgotturnedawayfromfour fullKarangahapeRdrestaurantsonerecent Thursdaynight,butI’veseenplentyofquiet roomstoo,andI’veneverhadsomany carparksonPonsonbyRdtochoosefromas onthisvisit).

Thewinelisthasbeencreatedby EverydayWine’sDanGillett,whohas playedquitethetrickonAuckland, turningusontowineswhichwouldhave

Above:Friedchicken.Below:Thegilda(pickled chilli,olive,anchovy),andtunawithwhite anchovies. Photos/BabicheMartens

gothimkickedoutofdinnerparties 10yearsago.Unfiltered,skin-tinged, naturallyfermented…Ithinkit’sfairto saywe’velearnedtolovethem,andfor thoseofusstillsceptical,heofferswines thataremorevisuallyapproachabletoo, eveniftheyhavetheirownsurprises (Iaskedtoseethebottleofchardonnay Iwasdrinkingbytheglass,butthewaiter couldn’tdoitbecause,itturnsout,he waspouringitfromatap).

ThenewOrphansKitchenisplaying downthefoodalittle—“winebarwith snacks”isthevibe—butIhavetotell youtheirtunaismyAucklanddishof theyear.Youmusttryit:sixblushing pinksheetsofthefinestcutofbluefin, marinatedinoliveoil,whichIdidn’t knowwasathingbutthatleanfishflesh definitelybenefitsfromsomefatinthe mouth.Eachsheetislaidaroundthe outsideoftheplatewithamorselof boquerones(marinatedwhiteanchovy) placedononecorner.You’reencouraged torollthesheetuparoundtheanchovy thendipitintoasauceofpickledegg mayo—thickandalittlesweet,abit likethemustardsauceyourmumused toservewithcornedbeef.Thefinal mouthfulisn’thugebutit’ssowonderful thatthreeeachistheperfectnumber— it’sanothergiftfromTomtoAuckland.

Howwastherestofthefood?Great, byanybodyelse’sstandards.Iperhaps orderedbadly,endingupwithtwo deep-frieddishesinthekahawai-nduja croquettesandaprettyplainfriedchicken. Eachcamewithdishesofmayothat weren’tidenticalbutfeltprettyclose,so forawhiletherethingswereabitsamey. Ilovedtheroasted(sorry,sous-videthen roasted)stripsofparsnipwithagrodolce syrupandarealfrom-scratch-tasting molé,butIwasstartingtofeelforour photographerBabiche,whodespitebeing theGOATcanonlydosomuchwithbeige.

Rd’spoorcousininrecentyears.AsIraved aboutthetunathewaiterpulledhisphone outandshowedmeaphotofromthatday, ofTomHishonstandinginsidethedining roomwiththatentirefishtuckedunderhis arm.Ilovehisrespectforrealfood,hisquiet, humbleunwillingnesstocutanycorners. WelcomebackOrphansKitchen;allhailthe princeofAucklandcuisine.

ORPHANSKITCHEN

ADDRESS: 118PonsonbyRd,Ponsonby

PHONE: (09)3787979

RESERVATIONS: Accepted

DRINKS: Fullylicensed

FROMTHEMENU: Gilda$5ea; kahawai-ndujacroquettes$18;parsnip withmolé$19;friedchicken$22;tuna withboquerones$25

RATING: 16/20

Angela Casleyevokes the flavours of Singapore this week,with a classic rendang and sambal chicken

stalks bruised

¼ cup tamarind

2 tsp cardamom

1 cup coconut cream

1 cup beef stock

1 Tbsp brown sugar

4 lime leaves

To serve

3 cups cooked rice

6 flatbreads

¼ cup coriander

¼ cup toasted coconut

1. Preheat the oven to 160C

2. Place the chillies (with the seeds), garlic, ginger, onion, oil, lemon and salt in a food processor, blitzing until it forms a paste

3 Heat a heavy-based ovenproof casserole dish to medium heat and add the spice mix, cooking for 3 or 4 minutes until the aromas are flowing Remove and set aside while you brown the meat

4 In the same pot brown the meat in batches until golden Add a little extra oil if needed

5. Return all the meat and spice to the pot along with the cinnamon stick, star anise, lemongrass, tamarind, cardamom, coconut cream, stock, sugar and lime leaves

6 Give it all a good stir, bringing it to a simmer. Cover and place in the oven for 2½ hours. Check once or twice to ensure there is enough liquid. Remove and season. Serve with hot rice and heated flatbread Garnish with chopped coriander and sprinkle with coconut

SAMBALCHICKEN,VEGETABLES ANDNOODLES

Serves4

Awokgetsthebestresultforastirfry,as itheatshotandevenly.Ifyoudon’thave one,alargefryingpanwillsuffice.

2Tbspflavourlessoil

400gchickenthighs,thinlysliced 1Tbsppeanutoil

1redonion,thinlysliced 1redpepper,thinlysliced 100ggreenbeans,endstrimmed 1Tbspcurrypowder

¼ cupsambal

2eggs,whisked 300gcookedeggnoodles 1springonion,sliced

1. Heatthe2tablespoonoilinalargefrying panorwok.Addthechicken,cooking inbatchesforafewminutestobrown. Removetoaplate.

2. Addthepeanutoil,redonion,pepper, andgreenbeans,cookingfor5-6minutes. Stirthroughthecurrypowderandsambal. Pushallthevegetablestothesideandpour intheeggs,lettingthemcooklikearustic omelette.Thenchopitinthepan.

3. Returnthechickenalongwiththe noodles,tossingitalltogetheruntilhotand steaming.

4. Servehotwithasprinkleofspringonion.

SEMOLINAANDALMONDSYRUPCAKE

Butteryandalittlesticky,thiscakeis perfecttoaccompanyamorningor afternoontea.Thesemolinaaddsaslight nuttytexture,whichisverypleasant.

250gbutter,roomtemperature 120gcastersugar,plus2Tbsp

tspalmondessence

120ggroundalmonds

1orange,thinlysliced

Preheattheovento170C.Linea22cm caketinwithbakingpaper.

2. Creamthebutterandsugarfor4 minutesuntillightandfluffy.Addtheegg yolks,vanilla,almondessenceandzest, beatingforafurther2minutes.Foldin thesemolinaandgroundalmonds.

3. Placetheeggwhitesinacleanbowl andbeatuntiljuststiff.Addthe2 tablespoonsofcastersugar,beating through.Gentlyfoldinthewhites,athird atatime.Spoonintothetinandflatten thetop.Bakefor50minutes.

4. Tomakethesyrup.Combinehoney andorangejuiceinasmallpot,simmer for4-5minutes.Removeandcool.

5. Heatafryingpantomediumheat. Frytheorangeslicesfor3or4minutes togiveabitofcolour.

6. Placethecakeonaplate.Drizzlewith thesyrupandtopwiththeoranges.Serve withyoghurt.

FORMORERECIPES,SEE VIVA.CO.NZ/RECIPES

Photos/BabicheMartens