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4 | Tuesday,August19,2025

Luxurycruisingforless Sailinall-inclusiveluxurywithRegentSevenSeas Cruisesandenjoy30%savingsonselect2026 combinationvoyages.Exploredestinationssuch asthePacificNorthwest,Iceland,Australia, IndonesiaandtheMediterranean,withitineraries includingupto80shoreexcursions.Relaxina DeluxeVerandaSuite,savourgourmetdining,

andenjoyunlimitedbeverages,Wi-Fiand gratuitiesonboard.Combinationpackagesstart from$21,896pp,share-twin,forselectsailings. OfferendsAugust31,andissubjecttoavailability. BookatRSSC.com,call0800625692(NZ) or1300455200(AU),oryourtravel adviser.

Samoabeachfrontbliss

Nestledinashelteredbayjustanhour’sdrive fromFaleoloInternationalAirportonthe southeastcoastofUpolu,SaletogaSandsResort

&Spaoffersatranquilescapewithawhitesandy beach,lushgreenery,andexotictropicalflowers. HouseofTravelhasafive-nightpackagefrom $1439pp,share-twin.Thedealincludesreturn Economy(TheWorks)airfareswithAirNZfrom AucklandtoApia,fivenights’accommodation,

JeweloftheIndianOcean DiscoverthejeweloftheIndianOceanona12-day escortedtourofSriLankafromMarch12to24, 2026.ExploreColombo’svibrantstreets,marvel atUnesco-listedSigiriyaRock,andjourney throughDambulla,KandyandGalle.Rideinatrain pastteaplantationsandwaterfalls,andventure intoYalaNationalParktospotelephantsand leopards.Thisall-inclusiveadventureincludes internationalflights,guidedtouring, accommodationandculturalandwildlife experiences.Pricesstartfrom$7779ppforselect departures. Bookviapukekohetravel.co.nz/srilankaor call0800785386.

tropicalEnglishbreakfastdaily,two30-minute massagesperroom,twolavalava(sarongs)per room,andFiafianightliveentertainmenton Wednesdays(Fiafiadinnerexcluded).Validfor saleuntilAugust31,unlesssoldoutpriorfortravel fromJanuary16toMarch7,2026. Bookathouseoftravel.co.nz/samoasaletogasands,call0800713715,orsee yourtravelagent.

StylishHawaiianescape FlytoHawaiiandenjoytwonightsinWaikiki beforesettingsailonaseven-nightcruiseaboard PrideofAmericawithNorwegianCruiseLine. ExploretheislandsofMaui,HawaiiandKauai, thenenjoyonemorenightinWaikikipost-cruise. PackageincludesreturnEconomyflightsfrom AucklandtoHonoluluwithAirNZ,threenights’ hotelaccommodationatOutriggerWaikiki BeachcomberHotelinastandardroom(two nightspre-cruiseandonenightpost-cruise).The

cruiseincludesselectedspecialitydininganda beveragepackage.From$6299pp,twin-share stateroom,thisdealisonsaleuntilAugust25. PriceisbasedonanInsideStateroom.Airport transfersareadditional.DepartureisJanuary24, 2026,subjecttoavailability. ContactFlightCentreon0800427555or visitflightcentre.co.nz/product/ 21470362.

SailtheMediterraneancoast HopaboardtheEnchantedPrincessandsetsail

fortheMediterraneanonaseven-daycruise. DepartingfromCivitavecchiaonMay26,2026, exploretheAmalfiCoast,Santorini,Kusadasi,and Katakolon.Pricedfrom$1962pp,share-twinfor aPrincessStandardfare,whichincludesstandard dining,accommodation,andentertainment. Flightsareadditional.Pricesaresubjectto change.

Visitprincess.com/cruise-search/details/? voyageCode=N615&fareType=BESTFARE orcall0800780717.

YOURTOURINCLUDES:

•Enjoyﬁrst-classhotelstayswithdailybreakfastandselectmeals

•SeeWashingtonD.C.’siconiclandmarks

•FollowthelegendaryAppalachianTrailforspectacularscenery

•CruisebeneaththemistofthunderingNiagaraFalls

•DiscoverToronto,OttawaandMontréalwithexpertLocalGuides

•GetatasteofFrancewithaspecialdinnerinQuébec

•WalkBoston’sFreedomTrailandsampleItaliancannoli

3&4-staraccommodation,

Smallgrouptour,max20guests fullyescortedbytourleader

Airporttransfers&

Ourtripwasanamazingadventure, whichwaswellorganisedandmade easierbythegroupteamleader.Thesights wereamazingandwecameawaywith wonderfullifelongmemories.

YvonneM,January2025

4-staraccommodation,

Smallgrouptour,max12guests

3to5-staraccommodation,

Smallgrouptour,max16guests

Youasked,wedelivered.InspiringVacations proudlypresentsSoloJourneys—small grouptourscraftedexclusivelyforsolo travellers.Enjoyyourownroomatnoextra cost,returninternationalairfares&transfers, andunforgettablesharedexperiences.It’s comfortandconnectionmadeeasy.Your dreamdestinationawaits—solo,notalone. NEWSOLOJOURNEYSWITHINSPIRINGVACATIONS

ScarlettCvitanovich checks inandchecksoutAyana VillasinBali

LocatedwithinAyanaBali’s90ha grounds,AyanaVillasBaliisthemost luxurioustierofaccommodationatthis five-starresort.Boastingfourdistinct hotels,AyanaBaliisaone-of-a-kind holidayexperienceregardlessofwhich accommodationyouchoose.

However,thefreshlyrefurbishedvillasoffera 24-hourbutlerserviceandprivate27sqmplunge pools,where,ifyou’reanythinglikeme,you’llstruggle totearyourselfawayfrom.

Location: Theresortperchesoncliffsoverlooking JimbaranBay.Just20minutessouth(ingoodtraffic) ofBali’sairport.

Perfectfor: Honeymooners,coupleslookingtotreat themselves,oranywaterbabieswhofancyaprivate poolinpicture-perfectsurroundings.

Firstimpressions: Assoonasyou’rewhisked throughthegatesofAyanaBaliyouknowyou’ve arrivedsomewherespecial.

ThestaffattheAyanaVillaslobbyareyourfirst tasteoftheexceptionalserviceyou’llreceive throughoutyourstay.Theopen-airreceptionlooks overmirror-likepools,andyou’releftitchingto explorethemanicuredtropicalgroundsasyousip yourtastywelcomedrink.

Oneoftheexclusiveperksforvillaguestsispriority buggyserviceanywherewithintheresort(remember itis90ha),soyouarriveatyourintricatelydecorated frontdoorinstyle.

Theroom: Wheretostartwiththisroom.Inever wantedtoleave.Theone-bedroomOceanViewVilla is500sqmandhasbeennewlyrefurbishedtobring togethermoderndesignandluxuriesalongside traditionalBalineseelegance.Marbleandwoodare usedextensivelythroughoutthesuite,whichfeatures aspacious,separatelivingarea.

Eachvillafeaturesaninvitinggazebobythepool, whileslidingglassdoorsopenfromthebedroom.So, naturally,Istartedeachdaywithamorningswimjust stepsawayfrommybed.

Theking-sizebedisincrediblycomfortable,and there’sapillowmenuwith14differentoptions.

Bathroom: Thespa-inspiredmarblebathroomis almostbiggerthanmyAucklandapartment.A standalonemarblebathisinprideofplace,andI’m welcomedbyaflowerbathonmyfirstnight.Isoak inthepetalsandadmireaglowingsunset.

Betweenthebathroomandbedroomisafull-size dressingroomandvanityarea,withallthebathroom amenitiesyoumighthaveforgottentopack.Tokeep thespathemeflowing,thevillasuseluxuriousEspa products,withpurenaturalingredients.

Facilities: Ifyoucandragyourselfawayfromyour sliceoftranquilparadise,thereissomuchtoexplore attheresort.

There’sthe53-roomaward-winningAyanaSpa (featuringoneoftheworld’slargesthydrotherapy seawaterpools);asecludedprivatebeach(accessed viaitsownfunicular);an18-holegolfputtingcourse; twotenniscourts;threewell-equippedfitnesscentres

ROOMCHECK

Fromtop,eachvillahasits own27sqmpooland gazebo;stayinfive-star luxuryatAyanaVillasBali; expectflowerbathsand Espatoiletries;villaguests havepriorityseatingatthe RockBar. Photos/helicambali.com,supplied

easilybookatthespaorrestaurants,orliaisedirectly withyourbutlerforapickup.

Foodanddrink: Withmorethan30restaurantsand barsonsite,you’respoiledwiththevarietyofcuisines onoffer.

Thebarsincludeabeachclub,multiplerooftops, andamusicloungefornightowls.

Asavillaguest,yougetpriorityaccesstothe resort’sRockBar,setonthecliffside,wherevisitors lineupforaprimesunsetseat.

Intheneighbourhood: ThefourhotelsatAyana Balialreadyfeellikeseparatedestinations;however, ifyoudoventurefurtherafield,JimbaranVillageis nearbyandyoucanjointripstoreveredspotslike UluwatuTemple.

Sustainability: Since2023,theresorthaseliminated single-useplasticamenitiesfromallguestrooms, reducinganestimated52tonnesofplasticwaste annually.

andtwokids’playgroundsthatIwishedIwassmall enoughtoclamberon.

Therearealso14swimmingpools,withthetwolevelRiverPool,designedtomimicanaturalriver, availableexclusivelytovillaguestsfrom10am.Any earlierandyou’llfindotherresortgueststakingpart inaphotoshoot—it’sthestuffofaninfluencer’s dreams.

AyanaHospitalityhasitsownappallowingyouto

Furtherplasticreductionsincludeusingglass bottlesfordrinkingwater,transitioningto biodegradablewoodenkeycards,andserving takeawaymealsincompostablepaper-based containers.

Theresortalsohasitsownfarm,whichusesorganic methodsandtraditionaleco-friendlypractices.There areplentyofactivitiesforguestsaswell,including farm-to-tablediningexperiencesandeducational activitiesaboutsustainablefarming.

Accessibility: TheAyanateamiswell-informedabout theaccessibleroomsandamenitiesonoffer.Most oftherestaurantsarewheelchairaccessible;however, thereareafewthat,becauseoftheirlocation,would bechallengingtoaccessforthosewithlimited mobility.

Price: The1BROceanViewVillastartsat$1585per night.

Contact: ayana.com/bali/ayana-villas/ NewZealandHeraldstayedcourtesyofAyanaResort &Spa.

Silversearedefinessailingandexplorationwithintimateshipsthataccesshard-to-reachports,takingyouinto theheartoficoniccitiesandtoremotedestinationsacrossallsevencontinents.Fortwoweeksonly, enjoyextra savingsofupto$9,600persuite onmorethan180worldwidevoyages. Reserveyoursuiteby1September, 2025 tosecurethisofferwithjusta15%deposit.

TERMS&CONDITIONS:“ExtraSavings”offervalidonnew,individualbookingsmadebetweenAugust14,2025andSeptember1,2025onselectvoyages.GuestsbookingthisofferreceivesavingsofAUD800perguest–plus–“Limited-TimeOffer” savingsofAUD4,000perguest.Thesesavingsareapplicabletothefirsttwoguestsbookedonly.OffernotvalidonWorldCruisesandGrandVoyages.OffervalidonDoor-to-DoorandPort-to-PortAll-Inclusivefares.OffernotvalidonEssentialfares.Offer validonselectSpecialCombinationCruises.Forafulllistofvoyagesandcurrentfaresavailablewithinthisoffer,visitSilversea.com.Offervalidonallsuitecategories.Offersubjecttosuiteavailability.OffernotcombinablewithPromotionalGroups.Offer combinablewithVenetianSocietySavings,EventCertificates,NationalAccountSailings,ReferralSavings,OnboardSavings,CombinationSavings(back-to-backvoyages)andKidsSavings.Exclusionsapply.Thepromotioniscapacitycontrolledandcan beremovedatanytimewithoutpriornotice.Singlesupplementsapplyandvarybyvoyage.PricingforDoor-to-Door&Port-to-PortbookingsaresecuredunderSilversea’sFareGuarantee.Cancelandre-booksdonotqualify.Otherrestrictionsmayapply. VisitSilversea.com,call0800701427orseeyourTravelProfessional.

FrenchPolynesia: Raiatea »

Accordingtotraditionalhistories,twoMa¯orimigration canoes,theTainuiandArawa,leftRaiateaforNew Zealandinthelate13thcenturyorearly14thcentury. JenniMortimer headstoRaiateatolearnmoreaboutthis sacredplaceanditsdeepconnectionwithAotearoa.

AJOURNEYTO ANCESTRAL

Fromleft,partofMarae Taputapuatea,aUnesco WorldHeritageSite;oneof thebeautifullagoonsof RaiateainFrenchPolynesia; theislandisfullofamazing naturalfeatures,tall coconutpalmsandan ancientextinctvolcano.

Photo/GettyImages, CampPhoto

Raiateaislesswell-knownthanotherFrenchPolynesia spotssuchasBoraBoraorMoorea;right,fresh mangosteenfruitpickedinthemountainsofRaiatea. Photos/123rf,Unsplash

TLAND

heislandofRaiateaisconsidered thebirthplaceofPolynesian cultureandthemostsacredisland inFrenchPolynesia. Itsnamemeans“distantsky”in Tahitian,andbelowthatsky’s vastsunrisesandsunsetsisthelandformerly knownasHavai’iorHavaiki.

RoughlytwicethesizeofWaihekeIsland, Raiateaisbelievedtobetheancestralhomeland ofMa¯oriandthestartingpointformigratory journeysthatfollowedthetrackofMatariki— thePleiades(SevenSisters)constellation—and ledtothesettlementofotherPolynesianislands, includingNewZealand.

Hometothemostsignificantmaraeinthe PolynesianTriangle,theMaraeTaputapuatea(a UnescoWorldHeritagesitesince2017)it’sa must-visitforKiwiswantingtolearnmoreabout theirancestralroots.

Tomakethemostoftheexperience,through ArohaExperienceswemetwithaTahitian guide,whotookusthroughMaraeTaputapuatea andRaiatea’ssurroundingnaturaltreasures.

Ourguide,NaikiLutz,explainedabitmore aboutthemarae,Taputapuatea—“tapu” meaningsacredand“atea”meaningfaraway. She’sguidedmanyNewZealandersthroughthis samejourney,manyofwhomshesaysare impacteddeeplybyasenseofconnectionfeltto theirancestralroots.

Themaraewasonceacentreofpowerwhere highpriestsandchiefsgathered,andtodaystill hasanincrediblepresence,commanding respect.

Butvisitingherehasn’talwaysbeena guarantee,asLutzsaidmanygenerationsbefore herwerescaredofvisitingthesite,whichwas consideredtabooandano-gozoneduetoamass waveofChristianityandlarge-scaleattemptsto culltheancestralstoriesthathadcomebefore it.

Christianmissionarieshadasignificant influenceonRaiatea,startingintheearly19th century,leadingtoconflictsandeventhe destructionofthetraditionalMarae Taputapuateain1828.WhilethepeopleofRaiatea initiallyresisted,Christianmissionaries successfullyconvertedmanyandmanagedto gainpoliticalinfluence.

Now,Lutzandmanyothersontheislandare onamissiontopreservetheTahitianculture, retellthestories,regeneratethelandandbring backpartsofwhatwaslost.

Whilesomeofthestoriesandtraditionsmay neverberecovered,Raiateaisinitselfahistory bookinlandscapeform.

Itishometomanyamazingnaturalfeatures, suchasMountTemehanianditstiaraapetahi flower,whichgrowsnowhereelseintheworld andbloomsatdawn.Theislandalsoboasts magnificentlagoons,riversbathedinrituals, andlushvegetation.

Lutztookusinhertruckthroughthecentre ofthemountains,stoppingtopickafresh mangosteenandvisitariver,usedbylocalsfor

Checklist

RAIATEA,FRENCHPOLYNESIA

GETTINGTHERE FlyfromAucklandtoPapeete,TahitiwithAirTahitiNui. TahititoRaiateaisashort45-minuteflightwithAirTahiti orAirMoana.

DETAILS tahititourisme.nz NewZealandHeraldTravelvisitedcourtesyofTahiti Tourism.

centuriestobatheandfish.

Thereshepreparedacoconutscrubforus usingfreshcoconuthuskandcoconutmeat,and webathedinthesamerivermanygenerations ofTahitianshave.Wetooktimetoappreciateall thatthelandhastoofferaswegavebacktothe eelsandshrimparoundusastheyfeastedon discardedcoconut.

Foraquicksnackbreak,wedetouredtoalocal marketandtriedmapechaudeforthefirsttime, afruitthat’sgruellingtoharvestandcookand lookslikeanorgan,butisadelicacyamong locals.Thetasteissomewherebetweenaku¯mara andabanana.

WewereluckyenoughtostayatOpoaBeach HotelduringourtimeinRaiatea;aboutiquespot withastunningbeachfrontlocation,charming bungalowsandrelaxedatmospherethatadded totheisland’scharm.

TimefeltsloweronRaiatea;nobodywas rushing,andtherewasaknowledgeeverywhere wewentthatthisplacewasspecial.Connecting toitforamomentintimewasanhonournot tobetakenforgranted.

AlthoughlessfamousthanitsneighboursBora BoraandMoorea,Raiateacaptivateduswithits mana,spectacularlandscapesandstories.

Attheendofourstay,wewoveharakekewith ourguideanddroppeditintotheoceanasagift toTa’aroa(theTahitiansupremecreatorgod), thankinghimforourtimeatsuchaspecialplace.

AttheAdinaApartmentHotel SydneyTownHall, Danielle Zollickhofer findstheperfect blendofmoderncomfortand autonomyclosetothehustle andbustleofthecity

Location: SetintheheartofSydneyCBD,at511Kent St,thehotelisa12kmdrivefromSydneyInternational Airportoreasilyaccessibleviaa30-minutetrainride.

Perfectfor: AnyonewhowantstoexploreSydney whilehavingthecomfortofa(fancy)homeawayfrom home,whetheryou’retravellingforbusinessor leisure,soloorwithfamily.

Firstimpressions: Assoonasyouenterthe receptionarea,yougetafeelfortheclassyand minimalistvibeofthehotel—likeapageof Home magazinecomealive.Thefriendlyandchattystaff makesurecheck-inishassle-freeandarehappyto sharelocalmust-dosandmust-eatswhenasked.

Room: AdinaTownHallhas144roomsincluding elegantapartmentsandstudioswithuptothree bedrooms.IstayedinthePremier1Bedroom ApartmentView,whichhasaseparatebedroomwith acomfortablequeen-sizebedaswellasafullyequippedkitchenandgenerously-sizedlight-filled loungeallowingforarelaxedeveninginafterabusy dayofexploring.

Thediningareawithapanoramawindowand stunningviewsoftheskylinewasatruehighlight, sameasthebalcony,whichmakestheperfectlocation foracheekynightcapandinvitesgueststobepart ofthehustleandbustleofthecityfromabove.The bathroomfeaturesaspaciousrainshowerwithvegan andcruelty-freetoiletries(byAustralian-ownedbrand Appelles)provided.

Facilities: Thehotelhasa24-hourreceptionandall apartmentshaveafully-equippedkitchen,diningsetup,loungeroomandlaundry.Allstudiosincludea kitchenetteandworkarea.ThereisaTVwith Chromecast,minibarandteaandcoffee-making facilitiesinallrooms.

Thehotelalsohasagymandasemi-indoorheated poolwithamazingcityviews,whichwillbea refreshinghighlightinsummer.Wi-Fiis complimentaryforallguests.Foranadditionalcost, youcanalsohavein-roommassagesanddrycleaning, on-siteparkingandadoctoroncall(atacost).There arealsofourconferenceroomswithcapacityfor between30and90people.

Foodanddrink: Thehotelhasacafeandbar,with theoptiontoorderroomservice.Becausethehotel isintheCBD,it’seasytopopoutforabiteinnearby restaurants.Ifoundthekitchentobeagreatfeature tohavebreakfast“athome”beforeadayoutinthe city,orforpeoplewhodon’tfeellikegoingoutfor dinnerandwouldrathercookamealthemselves.For addedconvenience,thehoteloffersgrocerydelivery. Intheneighbourhood: Thehotelisinthecentre oftheactionwithsightsincludingDarlingHarbour, CapitolTheatre,PittStreetMall,theQueenVictoria Building,SydneyTownHallandhistoricclocktower, SydneyConvention&ExhibitionCentreandHydePark super-closeby.

TheSeaLifeSydneyAquariumandSydneyTower Eyearebotha15-minutewalkaway,butthehotel isalsoveryclosetoTownHallStation(lightrail)and GadigalMetrostation,whichallowforeasyaccess toothertouristhotspotsincludingBondiBeach (45minjourneyviapublictransport)andSydney OperaHouse(20min).

ROOMCHECK

TheAdinaSydneyTown Hallisperfectlysetupfora comfortablestaywhile exploringthecityand beyond.

Sustainability: TheAdinaTownHallispartof Australian-basedhotelgroupTFEHotels,whichhas createdaGlobalESGCharter,outliningthe organisation’senvironment,sustainability,socialand governancestrategies,includingacommitmenttoa

Photos/TFEHotels,Danielle Zollickhofer

lowcarbonfootprintandwastereduction.

TheAdinaTownHallrecentlyunderwenta multimillion-dollarrefurbishment,undertakenby sustainabledesignfirmBatesSmart.Beforethe refurbishment,furnitureandfixturesfromthehotel’s apartmentsweredonatedtotheSydneyfurniture rescuecharityReLove.

Accessibility: The27-storeyhotelhasdecent-sized elevatorsandeasy-accesspublicareas.Easy-access roomsareavailableonrequest.

Price: CostsstartfromaroundA$350pernightfor astudioroomwithonekingortwinbeds.Apremier one-bedroomapartmentwithaviewofthecityand aqueenbedisavailablefromA$450pernight.

Contact: Visitadinahotels.com,call(+612)92740000 oremailtownhall@adinahotels.com.au.

NewZealandHeraldstayedcourtesyofAdina ApartmentHotelSydneyTownHallandtravelled courtesyofJetstar.

YOURCRUISEHOLIDAYINCLUDES:

•CruiseincludesTuamotu,Rangiroa,SocietyIslands&more

•WelcomeChampagne,complimentarycaviar&in-suitebar

•Complimentarypremiumspirits&ﬁnewines

•Alldiningvenuesarecomplimentary

•ComplimentaryWi-FiwithunlimitedminutespoweredbySpaceX’sStarlink

DepartsNZ: 8March2026

YOURCRUISEINCLUDES:

•14-nightscruisingDubrovniktoIstanbulonboard SeabournQuest®

•CruiseincludesCrete,Mykonos,Istanbul,Rhodes&more

•WelcomeChampagne,complimentarycaviar&in-suitebar

•Complimentarypremiumspirits&ﬁnewines

•Alldiningvenuesarecomplimentary

•ComplimentaryWi-FiwithunlimitedminutespoweredbySpaceX’sStarlink

YOURCRUISEINCLUDES: •12-nightscruisingOsakatoTokyoonboard SeabournEncore® •CruiseincludesKochi,Sokcho,Kanazawa,Akita,Miyako&more •WelcomeChampagne,complimentarycaviar&in-suitebar •Complimentarypremiumspirits&ﬁnewines •Alldiningvenuesarecomplimentary •ComplimentaryWi-FiwithunlimitedminutespoweredbySpaceX’sStarlink

*Terms&Conditionsapply:Validforsalesto31Aug25(unlesssoldoutprior).Pricescorrectasat12Aug25whentherewasreasonableavailabilityontheadvertisedprice.PriceisperpersoninNZDincompletetwin suiteasspecified,basedonleadcategories,inclusiveofdiscounts.Somestateroomsmayhaveobstructedviews.Reflectsallpromotionalsavings.Upto$2,000ShipboardCreditlistedispersuite,inUSD,andapplied tothefirst2guestsinthesuiteonly.Third/fourth-berthguestsarenoteligible.Guestswithsingleoccupancywillreceivetheperstateroomcreditamount.ShipboardCreditapplicabletoselectsailingsonlyandvaries bycategorybooked.Creditexpiresattheconclusionofyourcruise,isnottransferable,notredeemableforcashandcannotbeusedinthecasinoormedicalcentreandmaynotbecombinablewithotherpromotional

STAR

ofthesouth

Travellingsomewherecoldfora holidayinwinterisn’toftenatop pickforNZfamilies,butTekapo mayjustbetheperfectdestination forKiwis,writes EvadeJong

Inthedistance,thesnow-coveredpeaks loomoverthebrightmirrorofthelake, undisturbedbyourgroupofmuffled-up touristsscatteredonthepebblyshore. It’ssoquietIcanhearmyownbreath spirallingoutbeforemeincurlsofwhite. ThisviewofAorakiMtCookismagnetic,even fromfaraway,themountainseemstodrawme incloser.Noonespeaks.

Thetownisadifferentstoryinsummer,I’m told.Thenthelaketurnsavibrantblueand internationalvisitorsflocktosnappicturesof itsbanksdecoratedwithlavender-coloured lupins.There’slakeswimmingand,ifit’swarm enough,evenachancetosleepoutunderthe stars.

Inwinter,Tekapooffersadifferentkindof charm.Thelandscapeemptiesofitscrowdsbut thesightsarenolessgloriousandthesmallski fieldssurroundingTekapoofferalesspacked optiontoQueenstown’shighlypopularCardrona AlpineResort.

SkiingSouthIslandwithoutthecrowds TheslopesofRoundhillSkiAreawereperfect forpractisingmyrustypizzaskills.Imayhave beenaninfuriatingobstaclefortheeliteslalom skiersperfectingtheirslicingrunsthrough nearbypoles,butifanyonewaspeeved,they didn’tshowit.Afterswervingandalmost crashingoutintoasignpost,Idecideditwas timeforadrink,andluckilyIdidn’thavetotravel farforit.

NestledontheouterslopeofRoundhillSki Areaisatinycabin—theVonBrownHut,which hasfur-coveredtablesandaperfectviewof peoplezippingdownthemountain.

Inthemorning,it’stheperfectspotforquiet contemplationortoplanyourroutebackdown themountain.Laterintheday,it’sprobablyone ofthemostscenicplacesyou’lleverenjoyabeer.

ThesesmallerskifieldsacrosstheMackenzie Countryofferawaytobeatthehassleoflarger mountains.It’sacleveroption,especiallyif you’reshortontime,nottooadvancedofaskier andwanttogetaday’sexperiencewiththeleast amountoffuss.

Embracingtheelements Awintergetawayisallaboutembracingthe outdoorsinspiteofthecoldandgettingthefresh

mountainairintoyourlungs.

Therearespectaculardaywalksand overnighttrampsonofferatAoraki/MountCook NationalPark—anhour’sdriveawayfrom Tekapo.Althoughsometrailsrequireagood leveloffitnesswithplentyofsteps,thereare plentyofeasieroptionssuchasaquicktrekto theTasmanLakeswhereicebergscanbespotted floatingonthewater’ssurfaceeveninsummer.

Lastyear,theMackenzieDistricthadthe highestvisitornightspercapitainNewZealand. EvenbeatingQueenstownwithitsratio, accordingtoasurveybytheMackenzieDistrict Council.However,thedistrictisalso disproportionatelyimpactedbydrive-through visitorswhoutilisetheinfrastructurebutspend little.

EscapingtotheMackenzieCountryoffersa chancetoswapoutthehustleandbustleof drizzlycitylifeforafrosted-overmorning, stillnessandalpinescenery.

Theonlychoiceistostopandtakeitallin; somethingeveryoneseemstounderstandat TekapoSprings.

Checklist TEKAPO,NEW ZEALAND

GETTINGTHERE

FlyfromAucklandto Queenstownor ChristchurchwithAirNew Zealand.Tekapoisabout athree-hour,drivefrom bothcities.

DETAILS

Furtherinformationabout travellingintheMackenzie Regioncanbefoundon https://www.mackenzienz. com/ NewZealandHerald visitedTekapocourtesyof MackenzieRegionNZ.

TekapoSpringsinwinteris theperfectplaceforawarm soak;above,thestarsabove theMackenzieCountryare exceptionaloncethecloud clears.

There’sthecloakofsteamdriftingabovethe hotpoolsandtheshiningmountainshovering inthedistance.Thewearinessonthefacesof thevisitorssoakinginthepoolsmeltsaway. Inthesauna,theheatisstiflingandariver ofsweatstreamsdownmyback.Unabletobear thetemperature,Ihopintothecoldplungepool andImomentarilylosemybreath,asenseof euphoriaengulfingmeindizzyingwaves.

EnjoyingtruedarknessataDarkSky Reserve Whendarknessfalls,throughouttheregion,it’s notthetimetocurlupinfrontofthestone fireplace.

TheAorakiMackenzieInternationalDark SkyReserveisthelargestintheSouthern Hemisphere.

EncompassingAoraki/MountCookNational Park,theMackenzieBasin,LakeTekapo,Lake Pukaki,MountCookVillageandTwizel,the reservestretchesover436,700haandthestars

Photos/Tekapo Springs,RachelGillespie

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GONZ: Tekapo

Fromp12

canbeseenfromanywhere.Aclearviewofthe MilkyWayisadrawcardforoverseasvisitors whotravelfromacrosstheworldtoescapecities drenchedwithlightpollution.

InTekapo,thepopulationofabout500 residentsavoidusingfluorescentwhitelight,and thetinytownglowsadullyellowatnight.Since theearly1980s,theregionhashadlighting controlswrittenintotheMackenzieDistrict Plan.

ItookaguidedstargazingtouruptotheMount JohnObservatory—NewZealand’sprimary astronomyresearchfacility.

Ourtourgroupwasshuttledupthehillbyvan intothedarknessofthereserve.

Inthissetting,itmademerealiseIhadn’t reallyexperiencedpitchdarkness,assooftenthe bluelightofchargersordistantstreetlamps disruptsourexperienceofnight.Truedarkness isenveloping;itfeelsliketheworldaroundyou shutsoff.

Standingonthecoldground,inourpuffysnow jackets,weappearedlikeastumblinggroupof blindpenguins.

“Wow,”Iheardonewomangaspunderher breathtoherhusbandassheexitedthevan.I squintedinthedirectionshewaspointing,trying tobringintofocusthefewflashingstarsbeneath ahazeofcloud.

“Where?”herhusbandwhispered.

Therewereafewcoughs,anawkward scufflingofthefeet,anditbegandawningonme thatwemightlookabitridiculous.

Thenatureofoutdoortourismisthatthe weatherdoesn’talwaysplayalong,especially whenyouneeditto.

Thatnight,wecranedournecksupwardsonly tobemetbyaheavyblanketofcloudthat smotheredourviewofthebeststarsinthe SouthernHemisphere.Fortravellerswhohad caughta20-plushourflighttowitnessthissight,

itwasacruelblowfromMotherNature.But,hey, tomorrow’sanothernightandafreshstargazing opportunity.

Intheevenings,aburningredappearsinone corneroftheskythenflaresoutwardsagainst

Anepicday'sskiingon Roundhill;acoffeewitha viewofMtJohn. Photos/Supplied

thewhiteglareofthemountains.Itspreads suddenly,aflashofbrilliantlightasthesunsets onanotherday.

Evenwithoutthestars,it’sasightthatwould makeanylengthoftravelworthit.

SETSAIL TOWARMER SHORES

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TURKEY&GREEKISLANDS

SYROS,CRETE,MYKONOS

DEPARTS:29Mar26

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•2-nightpre-cruiseIstanbulHotelstayincludingbreakfast

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•7nightcruiseonboard SilverMuse

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•Unlimitedpourofchampagne,spiritsandupto 50winesfromtheSilverseaCellar

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•2nightHongKongstopoverincludingbreakfast

DESTINATIONS: Lisbon-Oporto(Leixões)-PortimãoTangier-Malaga-Gibraltar-Cádiz-Lisbon

DEPARTS:16Jun26

YOURCRUISEHOLIDAYINCLUDES: •ReturnEconomyclassflightsfromAuckland •2nightpre-cruiseNiceHotelstayincludingbreakfast •24nightcruiseonboard SilverShadow •Multiplerestaurants,diversecuisine,open-seating dining •Unlimitedpourofchampagne,spiritsandupto 50winesfromtheSilverseaCellar •Butlerserviceforeverysuite •24-hourin-suitedining •ComplimentaryWi-Fi •Onboardgratuities&porttaxes

DESTINATIONS: Nice-Livorno(Tuscany)-PortoSanto Stefano-Civitavecchia(Rome)-Valletta-Giardini Naxos(Sicily)-Salerno-Ponza-Portoferraio(Elba) -Portofino-Nice-SaintTropez-Bonifacio(Corsica) -Alghero(Sardinia)-Valencia-Ibiza-Palmade Mallorca-Barcelona-Palamos-Sete-Marseille-Nice

Africainaland

JanePhare spendstwodaysatAustralia’snewlyopened MonartoSafariResortandspa,surroundedbywildanimals

There’ssomethingpinch-me-andwake-me-upaboutwanderingonto yourhotelbalconytosurveythe savannahbelowandwatchacouple ofhipposeattheirdinner. They’velumberedoutoftheir hippopotamuslake—whereearlierwewitnessed themsnortingandcavortingfromourseatsonthe safaribus—tomunchoneveningsnackstossed overthefencebytheMonartokeepers.

Ourcornersuitebalconygivesussweeping viewsindifferentdirections.Thehippos’watering holetotheright,grazingnyalaandoryxinfront andnothingmuchtotheleft.Butasthedaylight fadesandstarsbegintopushtheirwayout,five giraffesarestandingbelowwhereearliertherewas nothing.

That’sthethingaboutsavannahs.Atfirst glance,theylooklikeabigstretchofemptyland, dottedwithtrees.Butwaitandwatchinthequiet –soquiet–andsomethingwillhappen.It’snot Africabutit’sprettyclosetothenextbestthing.

The78-roomMonartoSafariResortisperched ona67hasiteoverlookingtheMalleePlainsinthe Murraylandsregion,anhour’sdrivefrom Adelaide.

Thestrikingbuildingislongandlow,fringed bygardensandtwoswimmingpools.Beyondis 15,000haofopenlandandbush,hometoaround 750animals.

Thehotel’sunderstatedinteriorisamedleyof AfricanandAustralianinfluences.Rattanchairs, aparquetfloorandpolishedcorktabletopsinthe hotel’srestaurantKutjera(anAustralianbush tomato)giveita“smartcasual”vibe,asdothe staffwhowearsafaripants,shirtsandboots. Floor-to-ceilingwindowsprovidecommanding viewsofthewateringholeandsavannah,and there’salwayssomethingtosee.Foracloser encounterwiththewildlife,guestscanbooka sunriseorsunsetsafaritourthroughWildAfrica, a550haareaoffree-roamingherdsreservedforthe resort. Weoptedforasunsettouraboardasafaribus that,withaguide,meanderedpastgiraffes, cheetahs,rhinos,hippos,zebras,ostrichesand variousherdanimalsincludingnyala,waterbuck,

oryxandbarbarysheep.

Whoknewthatostrichesliketohangoutwith thegiraffessothattheycanhooverupanyfallen leavestheirloftyhostsdropbelow?

Atonestageagiraffestrolledpastsoclosewe couldhavereachedoutandtouchedit.Anostrich stoodforagesadmiringitsreflectioninthebus window,whilewegazedbackatit.Nearby,zebras grazedpeacefully.

ThereasonMonarto’swildlifearesochilledis thatpreyarekeptwellawayfrompredatorsby aseriesofhigh,electrifiedfences,likeJurassic Parkbutnotasscary.Asaresult,Monartoguests won’tbeputofftheirbuffetbreakfastafter witnessingacheetahpounceonababyantelope.

AtdinnerthatnightIpolishedoffaMidnight Skycocktail–blackgin,AdelaideHillsblackberry liqueurandcitrus,infusedwithactivatedcharcoal andwithsparklingsugarcrystalsleftinthe bottom.Amagicalconcoction.Then,halfadozen plumpSouthAustralianSmokyBayoystersand pan-friedbarramundiwithwintermelon, heirloomtomatoandadivineleafashsauce.The soft,darkrollsservedwithwhippedbush-tomato butterweresodeliciousweaskedformore. Somehow,Ifoundroomfordessert—aguava yuzulemontartwithDavidsonplumicecreamand soursopchiaseedsauce.

I’mnotmuchofawinedrinkersoIaskedKiwi wineexpertandfoodieFraserMackenzie,whohas workedinNewZealandandAustralianvineyards, hisopinionofKutjera’sextensivewineselection. ThelistshowcasedclassicregionsofSouth Australia,hesaid. Manywinesareavailablebytheglass,including hard-to-findselectionspouredusingCoravin,a preservationsystemthatkeepswinefresh. “RockfordBasketPressshirazatA$49[$53]aglass andSeppeltsfieldParaGrandTawnyat$A11won’t bemissedbyardentwinelovers,”Mackenziesaid. HewasimpressedbyKutjera’smenu,too, pointingoutitshowcasedtopSouthAustralian producewithdishessuchaswildsafarigin-flamed prawns,kangaroocarpaccioandBarossapork belly. Indigenousingredientssuchasdesertlime, lemonmyrtleandsaltbushalsofeature.

landdownunder

Checklist

ADELAIDE, AUSTRALIA

GETTINGTHERE

QantasfliesfromAuckland toAdelaideviaMelbourne andSydney.Adirect servicewilllaunchbetween AucklandandAdelaideon October31,2025.

DETAILS

RoomsatMonartoSafari Resortstartat$307anight andgouptoaWaterhole Viewtwo-bedroomsuite for$921anight.TheDawn Safaricosts$145andthe SunsetSafaricosts$178. Travellersridingtoorfrom AdelaideonTheGhan, IndianPacificorGreat Southerncanalso purchaseapackage includingahoteltransfer,a two-nightstay,aSunset SafaritourandaMonarto SafariParkadmissionticket. monartosafariresort.com NewZealandHeraldTravel visitedAdelaideandstayed atMonartoSafariResort courtesyofJourney BeyondandQantas.

Ourhotelsuitehadaluxuriousyet unfussyfeelwithalltheextrasexpected inafive-starhotel:monogrammed bathrobes,avastbathroomwithdouble handbasins,afree-standingbath,a separatetoiletalcoveandalargewalkinshower. Apairofpowerfulbinocularsin eachroomallowsforunlimitedanimal gazingfromthebalcony. Thenextdaywehoppedonthehotel shuttletovisittheadjoining10,000ha MonartoSafariPark,runbyconservation charityZoosSA.Aportionofeachguest’sstay atMonartoSafariResortgoestowards conservationeffortsatthepark. Herevisitorscangetupcloseandpersonalwith thewildlifeincludinglions,cheetahs,dingoes, zebras,chimpanzees,Americanbison,thecloseto-extinctionPrzewalskihorse,Africanpainted dogs,giraffes,rhinos–bothwhiteandthe endangeredblackspecies–elephants,meerkats, reptiles,andkangaroosthatweretrappedinside

whentheparkwasfenced. Themostthrillingmomentwasseeingdearold Burma,nowaged43,AucklandZoo’smuch-loved elephant,whowastransferredtoMonartolast year.Thereshewas,rollingalogaroundin Monarto’snew14haelephanthabitat,complete withunderfloorheatingintheenclosures.Keeping hercompanyintheA$6.4millionhabitatarethree otherfemaleelephants,withamaleduetojoinin August.

HerthreeKiwikeepers,whoworkedwith BurmaforyearsatAucklandZoo,havestayedon tohelpdevelopandrunMonarto’selephant programme.

Thestoryofwhy15,000haofland80kmeastof Adelaidecametobehometowildanimalsdates backtothe1970s,whentheSouthAustralian governmenthadplanstodevelopasatellitecity. Buttheplanneverwentahead.Instead,Adelaide Zoobeganusingthelandforgrazingandbreeding intheearly1980s,andtheparkopenedtothepublic in1993.

AustralianmultimillionaireGerryRyan, founderofcaravanmakerJayco,bought67haof landadjoiningtheparkseveralyearsagoandbuilt thefive-starMonartoSafariResort,nowmanaged byAustraliantourismgroupJourneyBeyond. Stillunderconstructionare20glamping tentsandaluxurylodgeoverlookingthe savannahthatareduetoopenearlynext year.

Afterbreakfastitwastimetocheck outtheresort’sMuraladayspafora full-bodymassageandfacial.I’mnot oneforspatreatmentsasarulebut thiswasasclosetoblissasitgets. Everybitwasmassaged,evenmy closedeyes.Therewereroseoilsand scentedsprays,hotdamptowels wrappedaroundme,andahotflat crystallaidonmychest. AfterwardsIwaslefttorelax,sipping herbalteaservedwithstrawberrysyrupand achocolatetruffle,inthespalounge.Guestscan alsosoakinthethermalplungepool,takeadip inanicebathorusethesaunaaftertheir treatment,butasIforgottopackmytogsImissed thatbit. “Ooh,yousmellnice,”thehotelreceptionist remarkedwhenIcheckedoutlaterthatmorning inablissed-outstate.

Ifeltnicetoo.

Photos/GeoffBrooks,Zoos SA,supplied

outdoorpoolsoverlookthesavannah resort'sbar,withrestaurant Photos/Supplied

Travelby4x4

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HanoitoBangkok

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NegombotoColombo

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No$7,980wfrom $6,384 perperson*

Adventure

TokyotoOsaka

• 10breakfasts,6lunches,3dinners

• Takeasushi-makingclassinTokyo MeetmatchafarmersinUji

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Oncedefinedbynightlife,Berlinnowthrives onculture,cuisineandcalmbydaylight. Photo/VisitBerlin,Mowuestenhagen

BERLINBYDAY

ThecapitalofGermanyis belovedbynightowls,butis theremuchforearlybirdsto enjoy? MichelleTchea heads tothecitytosee.

NightlifeispartofBerlin’sDNA. Everythingcoolseemstohappen whenthesungoesdownin Germany’scapitalcity—thebest musicisheardatnightinthe city’scoolestclubsandthebest mealsarelate-nighteatsafterafewdrinks. However,35yearssincethefalloftheBerlinWall, thingsarechanginginthecapital.

You’renowjustaslikelytoseevibrantoutfits asyouareneo-blackgothattire,clubsare operatingasartgalleriesbydayandtraditional gasthaus’servingfattyporkknucklesarenow neo-bistrosdishingupdelicateknodelsthatmelt inyourmouth.

“Berlinusedtobedarkandmostofthefun thingshappenedatnight,butthecityhas evolved,”saysTimRaue,chefoftwo-MichelinstarredrestaurantSphere.

Thepandemicwasanundeniablecatalystfor muchofthischange,especiallyintheculinary space.Before2020,thecitywasmovinginthe directionofelevatingfine-diningexperiences withnearly30Michelin-starredrestaurants dominatingBerlin’sfoodscene.

However,afterthepandemicandfollowing twoyearsofrecession,Rauesaystherestaurant industry“thinnedoutintheranks”andBerlin isnowseeingahugeinfluxofcasualfine-dining restaurants,whichRauebelievesisasignof Berlin’sevolvingtimes.

“Berlinhasalwaysbeenaculinarycityand westillare,butweareseeinghow‘dark’Berlin withitsclubsandbarsismorphingintoawhole differentcitywithbrunches,bakeriesand neighbourhooddining,”Raueadds.

AlwayscravingavisittoBerlinforitspork knuckles,currywurstanddonerkebabs,I questionedwhetherBerlin’sDNAwastruly evolvingorjustbecomingyetanother monotonousEuropeancity. Raueagreedthecityneededtoforgeitsown

TimRaue'srestaurant Sphere;right,aplatefrom vegetable-focused restaurantHorvath. Photos/MoritzPeters, supplied

vegandishfromOukan.

distinctfoodidentityandfeltthenewgeneration wouldbetheonestodoit.

“Youngchefsinthecityhaveamuchbetter senseofhowtorepresentGermancuisineina modernwayandoneofthosewaysistofocus moreonworkingregionallywithlocal producers,”hesays.

PartofBerlin’sbrighterfutureasaless grungyandgrittycityisitsemphasison vegetarianandveganrestaurantswhich haveopenedsteadilyinthecitysince 2020.SebastianFrank,chefandownerof Horvath,avegetable-focusedrestaurant intrendyneighbourhoodKreuzburgis seenasapioneerintheindustry,likeRaue, andcelebratesBerlin’spushtoinnovate.

“Berlinbasicallyforcedmetobeavegetarian-

basedchef,”confidesFrank,whosaysthatthe lackofgoodqualitymeatandseafoodproducers inalandlockedcityencouragedhimtoworkto adifferentbeat.“Elevatingvegetablesshowshow simpleingredientscanfostercreativityandwe arehappytobepartofthismovement.” Otherrestaurantsinthecitythatwork tothesameethosofhighlighting provenanceasamainsourceof inspirationincludeveganrestaurant Oukan,runbyStephenVickwhothinks Berlinmellowingoutdoesn’tmeanitis alessculturaldestinationfortravellers. “ThereisaresurgenceofGerman cuisineinthecity,coupledwithagreater

Fromleft,HotelAdlonKempinski’s1000sqmwellnesscentre;theAlteNationalgalerie;Berlinhasabrightfutureasalessgrungyandgrittycity;below,a

Photos/ResenseRuheraum,PierreAdenis,supplied

SPECIALINTERESTTOURS

JOINANADVENTURETOREMEMBERANDMEETLIKEMINDED SENIORTRAVELLERSONONEOFTHESEVERYSPECIALTOURS

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DiscoverWhanganui’svibrantartsscene,featuringglass works,pottery,mosaics,andmore.HometotheSarjeant Gallery,thetownboastsopenstudiosandgalleries showcasingthecreativityoflocalartists.

ForgottenWorldDiscovery

7-9Nov2025,3daysfrom$2,470pp

ExploreNewZealand’sForgottenWorldona43-kmrailcartadventure,scenicjetboatride,andguidedWaitomo Cavestour.VisitŌtorohangaKiwiHouse,MarokopaFalls, andMangapohueNaturalBridgeonthisescortedjourney.

NewPlymouthFestivalofLights

14-17Jan2026,4daysfrom$2,140pp

Experiencethemagicofthe2026TSBFestivalofLightsin NewPlymouth’sPukekuraPark.Enjoydazzlingdisplays,live entertainment,andsightseeinghighlightsincludingTawhiti Museum,PukeitiGardens,andtheTeRewaRewaBridge.

HurunuiGardenFestival

29Oct-2Nov2025,5daysfrom$4,390pp

ExperiencetheHurunuiGardenFestival,exploringdiverse NorthCanterburygardens.Fromwhimsicaltograndestates, enjoyvisitstoenchantinggardens,withanovernightstayin ChristchurchandadayinHanmerSprings.

MolesworthHighCountryStation

17-21Nov2025,10-14Feb2026,5daysfrom$4,680pp

Headoffthebeatentrailonafullyescortedtourthrough MolesworthandRainbowStations,exploringhistoric homesteads,ruggedlandscapes,sub-alpineareas,Lake Tennyson,WoodchesterStation,andHanmerSprings.

ChathamIsland 24-31Jan2026,8daysfrom$7,695pp

ExploreChathamIsland’srichMoriori,Māori,and Europeanhistorywithlocalguides.Discoverdramatic coastlines,historicsites,anduniqueﬂoraandfaunafound onlyinthisremote,culturallyrichdestination.

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Joinlike-mindedtravellersonafour-dayescortedtourto Napier’sArtDecoFestival2026.Enjoyvintagecars,1930s glamour,ﬂyingdisplays,winetasting,avintagecartour,and moreinsunnyHawke’sBay—NewZealand’sArtDecocapital.

Visitourwebsitetoseethefulltouringprogrammeor contactusforacopyofourtravelbrochure

Germany: Berlin »

Fromp19

emphasisonlocallysourcedingredientsandthis focusonlocalingredientsshowcasestheunique agriculturalidentityofBerlin,”saysVick.“I wouldevensuggestthatBerlinmightbelosing someofitsformer‘cool’factor.Perhapsit’sa naturalconsequenceofthecityevolving,but someoftheelementsthatoncedefineditsunique appealseemlessprevalent.”

Culturalspaces

Restaurantsaren’ttheonlyplaceschanging. Afterthepandemic,Berlin’smostloved institutionsandnightclubsremainedcultural spotsforBerliners,butratherthandishingout technos,hardcoredrinksanddrugs,they reappearedasartgalleriesandimmersive museums.

ButwalkaroundBerlinandyouwon’tfeelthat ithaslostanyofitscharacterortenacity;things arejustevolvingasallgoodcitiesshoulddo. FacetsofBerlin’slate-nightcultureremain,but alsopermeatethroughthedaywithastrongfocus onwellnessandculturalspaces.

Anexampleofthecity’stransformationcan befoundatAdlonKempinskiBerlin.

Stillstandingtalldespitemorethan135years, it’sthecity’smostopulentandhistoricalluxury propertywithviewsacrosstheBrandenburg Gate.Afteramultimillion-dollartransformation oftheRomanspa,the1000sqmwellnesscentre isaplaceofrelaxationwithArabianhammam, icewaterfallandplungepoolstocomplementthe city’slargestindoorpool—whetheryoujoin localsinusingitasahangovercureorweekend staycationisuptoyou.Wellnessandslowliving ispartofBerlin’sculturenowwiththeWaldorf Astoriaalsorevampingitsspa,andnewcomer HotelTelegraphmentopeningawellnessClub offeringholisticactivities.

Whilesomethingschange,othersdon’t,and Berlincontinuestobeadeeplyartisticcitythat

challengesone’sexpectationswhenitcomesto artandculture.Caseinpoint,afterthepandemic world-famousclubBerghainbeganhostingart exhibitions—expandingitsreputationasa culturalhotspotforBerlinersbydayandnight. ArtistslikeSvenMarquardtandDanish ecologicalartistJakobKudskSteensenhave beenfeaturedintheformerBerlinpowerplant.

Elsewherearoundtown,theformer KunsthausTacheles,whichwasoriginallyahub forartistsaftertheBerlinWallfell,hasbeen transformedintoFotografiska,aphotomuseum whichopenedin2023.

Wartimebunkershavealsobeenrepurposed

KunsthausTacheles, originallyahubforartists aftertheBerlinWallfell,has beentransformedinto Fotografiska,aphoto museumwhichopenedin 2023. Photo/123rf

asexhibitionspaces.TheFeuerleCollectionis housedinaformerWorldWarIItelecommunicationsbunkerthatisalsohometomore contemporarySoutheastAsianartworksand sculptures,andChristianBoros,aGermanart collectorhasturnedaformernotorioustechno andfetishnightclubofthe1990sintohisown privateartgallery. Berlin,35yearsafteritsdarkesttime,isbright, cheerfulandadelighttovisitforpeoplewhowant toenjoyBerlin’scounter-culture,coolnessfactor andanythingelsethatsetstheGermancityapart. Nolongeracityfornightowls,thecityhastruly evolved.

ROOMCHECK

Location: Room614isa“PrestigeStateroom”with abalcony,locatedonthesixthdeckofPonant’ssmall luxuryshipLeJacquesCartier.It’soneof92 stateroomsandsuites,whichrangefrom19to45sq m,withthegrandestcomfortablyhousingfourpeople andequippedwithluxuryadditionssuchasbutler service,aloungearea,abathtubandanampleterrace withaspa.

Sizeandstyle: ThePrestigeStateroomisatight19sq mbutfitsaking-sizebed(ortwosinglebeds),achaise longueandsmalltable,amakeupdeskwithtask lightingandaleatherstool,abathroomwithashower, separatetoilet,wardrobe,minibar,teaandcoffee facilitiesandasafe.Aslidingbaywindowopensto aprivate4sqmbalconywithatableandtwo armchairs.Technology-wise,thecabinhas individuallycontrolledairconditioning,there’sa flatscreenTVforwatchingmoviesandnewsfrombed. There’saBosespeakerforplayingmusic,and unlimitedfreeWi-Fi(whichcanbepatchyattimes, especiallywhenallguestsareonboard).

AsLeJacquesCartierisaFrenchship,alltheincabininstructionsareinFrenchwithEnglish translations,andthecurrencyonboardistheeuro. Note,theplugsareAmericanandEuropean,sodon’t forgetyouradapter(ifyoudoforget,likeme, receptionkeepsacollectionofspareplugsforyour usetoo).

Firstimpressions: Howarewegoingtofitthree bags’worthofclothesandshoesintothis19sqm room?Andyes,wedidpackthreebags–because ifyou’vecruisedbefore,you’llunderstandthejoyof dressingupforamulti-coursedinnereachnight, andwith10daysonboard,packingforboth daytimeadventuresinthesun,airconditionedeveningsontheshipandthe inevitablevisitstothegymaddsupfast.

Thankfully,thestateroomisbrilliantly designed,withsmart,seamlessstorage solutionsthroughout.Weeachhavea drawerandadouble-sidedcupboardfor essentialslikeundergarmentsand T-shirts,plusawardrobewithplentyof hangersfordresses,shirtsandjackets. Therearetucked-awaycupboardsperfect forstashingshoes,accessoriesandhats, andourbigsuitcasesslideeasilyunderthe bed.Intheend,everythinghasitsplace–and there’sevenroomtospare.

JohannaThornton checkedintoaPrestige StateroomaboardPonant’sLeJacquesCartier toseehowthiscompact,cleverlydesignedcabin measuresuponaluxuryexpeditioncruise

Service: Theroomisservicedtwiceaday–once inthemorningandagainforeveningturndown–and thelevelofcleanlinessisimpeccable.Ourattendant, Agust,isattentiveandfriendly,alwaysensuring everythingisinperfectorder.Roomserviceis available24/7foranythingelseyoumightneed.There isalaundryserviceavailableonboardwithsmallitems pricedfrom €1.

Eachmorning,you’llreturntofindyour bedbeautifullymade,fluffywhitetowels refreshed,theminibarrestocked,and Ponant’sglasscarafesrefilledwithstilland sparklingwater(filteredwithaNordac systemthatconvertsseawaterintogreattastingdrinkingwater).Intheevening, turndownservicesetsthemoodforrest:the duvetisfoldeddown,thelightsaredimmed, andaparadeofpetitfoursawaits,fromrichFrench chocolatestodelicatemacaronsandbuttery madeleines.

Bathroom: Noluxurycruiseiscompletewithoutlush toiletries,andLeJacquesCartierdeliverswitha bathroomstockedwithClarinsgoodies,including EnergisingBodyWashandInvigoratingShampooand Conditioner.Openthegenerousvanitydrawerand you’llfindlittleextrassuchasnailkits,showercaps, andcottonpads,allincompostablepackaging.The

showerhassurprisinglygreatpressure(yes,evenat sea),andthere’splentyofroomtomovearound. Buttherealstar?Acleverlydesignedpicture windowthatletsyougazeoutattheoceanwhileyou showerorbrushyourteeth,becausewhymissa momentoftheview?Andwhenyou’reafteralittle privacy,justslidethepanelacross.

Food&Drink: Theshipisgenerouslystockedwith excellentFrenchfareandbeveragesatitstwo restaurantsandbars,butyoudon’thavetoleaveyour cabintoexperiencethemenu.Roomserviceis available24/7,offeringPonant’s“alwaysavailable” menu–thinkaperfectlycookedPonantcheeseburger (amust)oragrilledsalmonfilletwithseasonal vegetables.

Youcanalsoorderbreakfasttoyourcabinusing amenutuckedinsidetheguestinformationfolder, idealforslowmornings.Unlikesomecruiselinesthat skipin-roomcoffeesetupsforsafetyreasons,Le JacquesCartierstateroomsincludeaNespresso machine,kettle,aselectionofPalaisdesThesteabags, and–becausethisisaFrenchship–littlebottlesof chilledwholemilk,notUHT.Theminibar(included inthefareandreplenisheddaily)featuressodaslike sparklingSanPellegrino,Coke,tonicwater,andJeanLouisBardofruitjuices.Forsunsetdrinksonyour balcony,you’llfindminibottlesofspirits,anicebucket thatstaysfrozenallday,andglasswareattheready.

Bestbits: LeJacquesCartiersetssaillateafternoon mostdaysandviewingtheKimberleyfromthe balconyasthesunsetsisarealhighlight.Sipping acoffeeinbedwhiletheshipglidesthroughcalm waters,sunlightstreamingthroughthegauzy curtains,thepromiseofanadventure-filleddayahead, isaritualthat’shardtopartwithtoo.

Price: FromNZ$14,129perpersonforthe10-night Australia’sIconicKimberley.Itincludesdailyexpertledexcursions,onboardmealsanddrinks,including 24/7roomserviceandminibar.

ThewriterwasaguestonboardcourtesyofPonant.

LeJacquesCartierproves

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USA: Washington,DC »

ACCESSIBLECAPITAL

World-famousattractions, wheelableneighbourhoods, remarkablerestaurants, andamazingaccessible accommodation–there’s onlyoneWashington,DC

Gettingaround

Washington,DChasoneofthemostaccessible publictransportsystemsintheworld,sogetting aroundthecityisabreeze.Theirsystemsare developedinconsultationwithanAccessibility AdvisoryCommittee,andtheinputofpeople withreal,livedexperienceofusingpublic transportwithadisabilitymakesabig difference.AllMetrorailstationsandrailcars areaccessible,andallstationshaveelevatorsfor peoplewithlimitedmobility,aswellasextrawidefaregates.

AllbusesintheMetrofleetarealsoaccessible, witheitherlowfloorrampsorlifts,two wheelchairsecurementareas,andpriority seating.Peoplewithdisabilitiesarealsoeligible fordiscountedtransitfares(bypriorapplication) withaReducedFareSmarTripID.Formore information,visittheWashingtonMetropolitan AreaTransitAuthoritywebsite.

Ifyou’dlikeaflexibleaccessibletransitoption totakeyouaroundthemajorlandmarksand noteworthyattractionsinWashington,DC, considerbookingaBigBusTour.Allbusservices arewheelchairaccessible(withlifts accommodatingupto295kg),andyoucanplan yourjourneyusingaconvenientappdownloaded toyourowndevice.

Foraccessibleairporttransferstoandfrom Washington,DChotels,WheelTheWorldlists arangeofoptions,includingtransfersforparties withmorethanonewheelchairuser.Travellers canstayintheirownwheelchairsforthe durationofthetrip,andtrainedstaffprovide assistance.

Travellingwithequipmentcanbeburdensome (especiallywithluggagerestrictionsonflights), sorentalequipmentisagreatalternative.

ScootAroundpoweredbyWHILLoffersawide rangeofwheelchairs,scooters,powerchairs, rollators,oxygenandothermobilityequipment thatallowsyoutonavigatethecitywithcomfort andease.

Accessibleaccommodation

Thepastandthepresentarebroughttogether atthefive-starRiggsWashington,DC,locatedin theformerheadquartersofRiggsNationalBank (est.1891).Justashortwalkorwheelfrommajor DClandmarks(includingtheNationalPortrait GalleryandtheWhiteHouse),theelegantrooms withartisticflourishesaretheperfectplaceto relaxandregroup.Theaccessiblekingand deluxekingroomshavewideneddoorwaysand manoeuvrablespace,roll-inshowers,grab-bars, andloweredfeaturesforaccess.

AtTheDupontCircleHotel,youcanchoose anaccessibledoubleroomorkingsuiteforyour Washington,DCholiday.You’llhaveeverything youneedforarelaxinggetaway,includingan on-siterestaurantwithanoutdoorterrace,abar, andafitnesscentre.You’llalsobejustafourminutewalkorwheelfromDupontCircleMetro Station,givingyoueasyaccesstoallthatDChas tooffer.Theaccessibleroomsfeatureen-suite bathroomswithmarbletiling,fixedgrab-bars, aroll-inshower,andahand-heldshowerhead. Ifyou’renotsatisfiedwithsimplyseeing landmarks,youcanactuallystayinoneatthe WillardInterContinentalWashingtonDC.It’s locatedrightintheheartofthecapital,witheasy accesstotheWhiteHouse,theJefferson Memorial,theUSCapitol,andLafayetteSquare, aswellasUnionStationtotravelfurtherafield. AccessibleroomsattheWillardhaveeithera

kingsizebed(andaccessiblebathtub) ortwoqueensizebeds(withroll-in shower),raisedbraillesignage, assistivelisteningsystems,andstepfreeaccessthroughout.Ifyou’re travellingwithafurrycompanion, theWillard’sPetPackagewillensure thatthey’retreatedlikeaVIPaswell.

Seethesights

KickoffyourWashington,DC itinerarywithaguaranteedcrowdpleaser.TheSmithsonian Institutionistheworld’slargest museumcomplex,with17DC-area museumsandgalleries,aswell astheNationalZoo.

Admissionisfreeatall Smithsonianlocationsin DC,andthereare experiencestosuitalltastes andabilities.

Yourvisitstartswiththe widerangeofpreparation materialsprovidedbyAccess Smithsonian,includingsocial stories,videoguides,and entry/accessinformationfor eachlocation.Takeadvantage oftheprintableAccessibility Maptoplanyourroute,and installtheAriavisual interpretationappaheadoftime.

restrooms,andparking,aswellas courtesywheelchairsavailableforloan andashuttleservicefortransfers.On theKennedyCentrewebsite,you’llfind listingsforsensory-friendlyandrelaxed performances,virtualexperiences,and more.

AllSmithsonianvenuesoffer complimentarymanual wheelchairstovisitors(first-come, first-served),aswellasassistive listeningdevices,opencaptioning onexhibitionvideos,andbraille andlarge-printmapsandguides. Tactiletours,ASLinterpreters, andotheraccessservicesare availablebypriorarrangement witheachSmithsonianlocation. Findoutmoreviathe SmithsonianAccesspage.

ForatasteofDCartsand culture,youcan’tgopastthe KennedyCentre,withworldclassproductionsandperformances thatareaccessibletoall.Thecentrehasa dedicatedaccessibilityoffice(phone202-416-8727 oremail)thatofferscomprehensivesupport services.

Forsomefreshairand“greentime”, headtotheUnitedStatesBotanicGarden (USBG),thecountry’soldest continuouslyoperatingpublicgarden (est.1816).StartattheConservatory lobby,wheretrainedstaffandvolunteers canofferguidanceforgettingthemost outofyourvisit.Wheelchairsare availableforloan(first-come,firstserved),asaresensorybagswith noise-reducingheadphones, weightedblankets,andaselectionof fidgets,andcolourblindglassesin bothadultandyouthsizes. Accessiblepathswilltakeyou throughouttheConservatoryand outdoorgardens,withample opportunitytotakeabreakon convenientbenches.Anaudio guideisavailableviayourown device,orbypaperandPDF (availableinlargeprintand braille).Findoutmoreabout accessibilityatUSBGontheir website.

Forpatronswhoareblindorhavelowvision, largeprintandbrailleprogrammesare available,aswellasaudiodescriptionguidesand kerb-to-seatguidance.Forpeoplewhoared/Deaf orhardofhearing,thecentreoffersASL interpretedperformancesandtours,aswellas assistivelisteningandcaptioning.Thecentre haswheelchairaccessibleentrances,seating,

Fromtop,theWashington Monumenthasaccessible parkingnearby;allBigBus toursarewheelchair accessible;prepareforyour visittotheSmithsonianwith AccessSmithsonian;atthe DupontCircleHotel,you canchooseanaccessible doubleroomorkingsuite. Photos/Supplied

NotriptoWashington, DCiscompletewithouta tourofthecapital’smost famousmonuments–and theyalloffergreat accessibility.TheLincoln Memorial,theThomas JeffersonMemorial,andthe WashingtonMonumentall haveaccessibleparking nearby,flatpathsand elevators,accessible bathrooms,brailleand/or largeprintbrochures,and assistancefromon-sitestaff. AttheWashington Monument,youcanbookan ASL-interpretedtouratno extracharge(withadvance notice). Ford/Deafandhard-of-hearingtravellers(or anyonewithaninterestind/Deafhistoryand advocacy),GallaudetUniversityisamust-see. Theinstitutionwasfoundedin1864,asthefirst Americanschoolford/Deafeducation.Tourthe campus,visittheMaguireWelcomeCentre,and exploretheNationalDeafLifeMuseum.Funfact: GallaudetUniversityprovidesaninterpreting

• ThreenightsinaSuperiorKingorTwinRoomwithamarbleensuiteandspabath

• DailybuffetbreakfastattheItalian-inspiredIlBaroccoRestaurant

• DailyA$50diningcredittouseatIlBaroccoRestaurant,LeJardinorWaterSalon

• Enjoyonewelcomewine,beerorsoftdrinkperadultatLeJardin

• Dailyself-parkingforonevehicleandaguaranteed12pmlatecheckout

• Twokids(12&under)stayfreeinTwinRoomsonexistingbedding(roomonly) FormerlythePalazzoVersace,thiswaterfrontoasispromisesunrivalled grandeurwithacclaimeddining,asprawlingpoolandprivatemarina. Your handpicked inclusions:

Fromp24 service,soifyouattendaneventortourthat isASLinterpreted,theinterpreterislikelya student,staffmember,oralumnus.

Feedyoursoul

FoodieswilldelightinthemanyWashington,DC cafesandrestaurantsthatofferbothdelicious fareandtheopportunitytosupportbusiness ownersandstaffwholivewithdisabilities.

Bitty&Beau’sis“ahumanrightsmovement disguisedasacoffeeshop”,employingpeople withdevelopmentalandintellectualdisabilities. TheirDClocation(3207MSt,NW)istheperfect placetofuelupforawanderthroughGeorgetown WaterfrontPark.

AfteryourGallaudetUniversitytour,stopby thesigningStarbucks(6th&HStNE),thefirst ofitskindinthecountry.Thestaffared/Deaf orhardofhearing,andcustomersare encouragedtolearnaboutDeafcultureandeven pickupafewASLsignswhiletheywaitfortheir order.

BusboysandPoets(202114thSt,NW)isa restaurant,bar,bookstoreandeventspacethat regularlyhostsdisabilitycommunityevents, includingbooklaunches,andamonthlyASL OpenMicnight.

Foratasteofhistory,headtoOldEbbittGrill (67515thStNW),Washington,DC’soldestsaloon. Oncethehauntofpresidents,militaryheroes, andstatesmen,it’snowhometoapriceless collectionofantiquesandmemorabilia.The restaurantservesupto2000patronsacrosslunch anddinnereachday,butthewideaislesallow forplentyofroomtomanoeuvreamongthe crowd.

Don’tmisstheopportunitytofeaston“food withaconscience”atoneofFoundingFarmers’ threeDClocations(FoggyBottom,Georgetown, andChinatown).Everysinglemenuitemismade fromscratch,frombreadtobooze,andthe

restaurantsarecollectivelymajority-ownedby Americanfarmers.Eachlocationiswheelchair accessible,withelevatorsbetweenfloors,andthe friendlyteamisavailabletoassistwith accommodatingspecificneeds(justaddanote withyourreservation).

Details DestinationDChasadedicatedguideforvisitorswanting

acomprehensiveoverviewofaccessibletraveloptions inWashington,DC.Visitwashington.org/accessibilityto learnmore.

TobookyourDCadventureviaWheeltheWorld,visit wheeltheworld.com.

ThisguidewascreatedinpartnershipwithWashington, DC&VisitTheUSA

ThisstoryfirstappearedinTravelWithoutLimits magazineandisrepublishedwithpermission.

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Africa: Morocco »

Despiteitsreputationfor beinganenormous,desolate expanse,atriptotheSahara canofferimpressivelevelsof luxury,dependingonyour budget,writes AndrewSluys

Iwouldlovetostartthisstoryoffby sayingIspentthenightintheworld’s largestdesert.Unfortunately,thattitle belongstotheAntarctic,whichisfar closerandprobablyfareasiertoreach fromNewZealand.Secondgoestothe ArcticDesert.However,asthethirdlargest,the Saharaisalsotheworld’slargesthotdesert;an adjectiveitcertainlydeserves.

Likealotofvisitors,ourSaharaadventure startsinMorocco,afterlandinginthecountry’s capitalcityofMarrakech.Itdidn’ttakelongafter landingtolearneverythingI’deverheardabout thecitywastrue.It’sabeautiful,frantic,chaotic meltingpotofartandculture,representing Morocco’sgeographicandhistoricalsetting.

Afterseveralnightsofacclimatisationinthe Medina,weboardedourvantostartthecrosscountryjourneytowardstheSahara.

Whenitcomestochoosingatourcompanyfor aMoroccanSaharatrip,theoptionsare seeminglyendless.Readingonlinereviews helpedalothere,andweselectedthecompany withthehighestoverallrating;adecisionthat paidoff.Despitebeingarelativelysmallpartof theAfricancontinent,Moroccois66%larger thanNewZealand,sothedistancesthesetours coveraremassive.

Day1|Seeingmovie-setsightsinAit Benhaddou

Followingaratherearly7amcalltimein Marrakech,weboardedalargevantobeginthe tour.Iwassurpriseditwasn’talargercoachlike theonesyou’dfindonaEuropeantour,butit quicklybecomesclearthey’relimitedtowhatcan fitwithinthenarrowcitystreets.Oncethelast passengeriscollected,wesetofftowardsourfirst stop–theAtlasMountains.

Likemostalpinecrossings,theclimbstarts tame,butflowingcornersandrollinghillsare soonreplacedbysheerroadsidedrops, complementedbyagreatnumberofhairpins. Theviewsquicklybecamespectacular,opening tolargevalleys,dottedwithtraditionalMoroccan Berbervillages.

Namedaftertheownerofthetownandhis first-bornson,AitBenhaddouisnotonlyoneof theoldestclayvillagesinthearea(firstsettled inthe11thcentury),buthasalsoplayedhostto manybig-screenproductionsinthelastfew decades.

Alongsidesharingthetraditionalhistoryof howthisvillagewasoneofthemostimportant stopsfortradersbetweentheSaharaand Marrakech,ourlocalhostwasalsoverykeento revealhewasanextrain GameofThrones when itwasfilmedhere. Gladiator, TheMummy,and LawrenceofArabia areafewotherblockbusters thathaveusedtheancientwallsofAit Benhaddouasasetting.

Athree-hourdrivetoouraccommodationfor theeveningconcludesthefirstdayofthetour. Here,traditionalMoroccandishesareservedfor dinner,includingtagines,breads,andan assortmentoffruitfordessert.

DayTwo|Rockingthekasbah Daytwoofthetourstartswithavisittoa traditionalkasbahintheTinghirregion.Outside ofTheClash’s1982smashhitaboutrockingone, Iwasn’ttoosurewhatakasbahactuallywas. Turnsoutit’salargebuildingincorporating severalhousesandawatchtower–orjustan Africancastle.

HerewelearnhowtraditionalMoroccanrugs aremade,andenjoyaspotofminttea,orasthe localscallit–Berberwhiskey.Beforeleaving thearea,wemakeaquickstopattheTodgha Gorges,tomarvelattheimpossiblytallwallsand crystal-clearwaters.Afterthis,wefinallysetour coursefortheSahara.

Ittakesanotherthreehoursorsotoreach

delights Desert

AitBenhaddou,oneoftheoldestclayvillagesinthearea;right,the tallwallsandclearwatersoftheTodghaGorges;below,Andrew Sluys’camelcompaniontotheSahara. Photos/AndrewSluys

Merzouga,whichisatownthat sitsbetweenthedesolateNorth Africancountrysideandthe goldensandsoftheSahara. Hereweswapourvanfor camels,andsetoffintothe dunestowardsour accommodationforthe evening.

Thejourneytogetto thedesertcamptakes aroundanhourandahalf, andyourcomfortlevels largelydependonyour camel.WhereIwasblessed withayoung,athleticsteed, myfianceewasn’tasfortunate andlandedonanelderlycamel. Comfortable?Notexactly,butit’s certainlyajourneytoremember.

Giventherathersimplemethodof transport,Ihadmanagedexpectations abouttheovernightcampsite,butwas pleasantlysurprised.Aswehadopted fortheluxurycampsiteoverthe standardoption,thearealooked moreakintosomethingyou’dfind atafancydestinationweddingthan atypicaldeserttent.Insidethe yurts,wehadaqueen-sizedbed, flushingtoilet,andevenahot shower.Therewasstilltheissueof havingsandeverywhere,butthe contrarywouldbeatallordergiven ourlocation.

Dinnerwasservedinalargetentat thecentreofthecampandwasthefamiliar Moroccanaffair.Followingdinner,wewere treatedtoatraditionalDarbouka(ordrum) performancebythecampstaff.

Checklist

SAHARA DESERT, MOROCCO

GETTINGTHERE

EmiratesandQatar Airwaysoperatetwo-leg flightsfromAucklandto Casablanca,stoppingonly atDubaiandDoha, respectively.

VISAREQUIREMENTS

NewZealandcitizensdo notneedavisatovisit Moroccoiftheirstayisless than90days. Thewritertravelledattheir ownexpense.

Left,aSaharaDeserttripin Moroccooffersluxuryand culturalexperiences;right, clockwise,theMedinaof Marrakech;insidetheyurt attheluxurycampsite;the diningtentservedclassic Moroccandishes;gorgeous viewsintheAtlas Mountains. Photos/AndrewSluys

DayThree|Desertsunrisesandhomeward drives At5.30thenextmorning,ouralarmswentoff, andwecrawledoutoftheyurtstowitnessour firstdesertsunrise.Assomeonewhodoesn’t considerthemselvesamorningperson,Ihaven’t seenmanysunrises,butthiswastruly spectacular.

Comparedtothenoiseandcrowdsof Marrakech,thedesertfeltlikeanothercountry altogether.Itshouldn’tcomeasmuchofa surprisetohear,butthesilencewasastounding. Theonlyaudiblenoisescamefromthecamel’s

hoovestreadingthroughthesand,andthegentle clinkofmetalwatercanistersstrappedtothe saddles.Iwouldn’tdescribemyselfasaveryzen person,butitwasoneofthemostpeaceful experiencesofmylife.

Ican’trecommendaSaharaDeserttripenough toanyonewantingtoexperienceMorocco.It givesyoutheopportunitytoseethevastly differentaspectsofthecountry’sculture;with eachfacetawe-inspiringinitsownright.

Themassivedistancescoveredinthetripcan beseenasadownsideforsome,butIliketothink theyofferplentyoftimetoappreciateMorocco initsentirety.

TrueSouth

Frombourboncraftsoysauce tothebestSouthernbiscuits you’llevertry,Louisville’s foodsceneiscreative,gritty anddelicious,writes Varsha Anjali

Louisvilleismessy.Imean,it’snot allpristineandperfect—andit doesn’ttrytobeeither.It’sacity withgrit.Itswallscroonwithold soulandnewthirst.There’san intenselyvibrant,creativeenergy herethatisn’tallthatobvious.Untilyoutrythe food.

EvenAucklandknowsthiswell—localcult favouriteBrokeBoyTacoistheartistryof LouisvillianSeanYarbrough.Thebourboncity hasalsomagickedupsoysauce,Southern biscuitsandbananabreadthat’sgotmeutterly obsessed.

Butwhatoftheirmakers?Whatweretheir stories?Ihadtoknow.

BourbonBarrelFoods MattJamiedoesn’tbelieveinluck.Hewasjust ready.

Thechefandentrepreneurguidedusthrough hissoysaucemicrobreweryinLouisville, Kentucky,hishometown.Inside,awhiffofaged bourbonoakbarrelssimmeredbeneaththeskin, spicessmokedup,andathicksludgeofsoybeans andwheatjustcarriedonfermenting.Allofthose thingsarefromtheBluegrassState.Delicious. Jamieisthekindofguywhocouldjustas easilyfitinasaventurecapitalistofahipstartupashedoesasabourbonexperimentalist.A strategicartistyoudon’twanttomesswith.His tangentsfeeluseful.Helovesefficiency.Andhe’s drivenashell.Whenaskedwhyhegotintosoy sauce,Jamie’sanswerwassimple:“Nooneelse wasdoingit.”

Hesaidhenoticedtherewereplentyof similaritiesandparallelstothedistillingof bourbonwhenhefirststartedresearchinghow tomakesoysauce.

“Ilookedatthatasanopportunitytoreally showcasewhatwecandowithournativespirit, youknow,bothwithjustthebarrelandusing itasaningredient,andatthesametime showcasingallthethingsthatKentuckyhasto offerculinarily,becausewehavesuchagreat historywithit.”

Thatwas19yearsago.Today,hehasaround 54peopleworkingforhimathiscompany, BourbonBarrelFoods,whichproducesover150 products.Ifyouvisitamainstreamgrocerystore anywhereintheUS,chancesareyouwillseehis spices,sauces,sweetsandsnacks.Andit’sall madehere.

“WhenpeoplecometoLouisvilletoexperience bourboninthecity,it’slikegoingtoCalifornia toexperiencewine.YouflyintoSanFrancisco, yougooutandvisityourwinery,it’savery romanticexperience.

“Andso,asLouisvillestartedtopositionitself asthegatewaytobourboncountryandoffering thoseexperienceswithvisitingthedistilleries, eatinginourrestaurants,itwasmissingwhat Istarted,whichwasthatspecialityfood component,”hesaid.

WethenhadatastingofBourbonBarrelFoods soysauceproducts.Itfeltfancyandcool.Two thingsIamnot.Nevertheless,thestandoutfor mewastheBluegrassSoySauce,whichmycheat

sheetdescribedasmeaty,brothy,leathery,and brinywithasubtlesweetness.Ithoughtitwas bloodygoodanddifferent. bourbonbarrelfoods.com

BiscuitBelly

LaurenCoulter’smumwasn’tmuchofacook. Growingup,herbestfriend’sgrandma,“Dit Dot”,madefreshbiscuitseverymorning.It’snot abiscuitinthewayKiwiswouldexpect—think sconebutwithmorebutter,fluff,saltandcircular perfection.

LaurenremembersDitDotrollingoutdough inawarmkitchen,flourdustingthecountertops, whiletheywaitedforthatfirstgoldenpanto comeoutoftheoven.

“Biscuitsweren’tjustfood—theywerea signalthatwewereabouttoslowdown,gather, andloveoneachotheralittlebit,”Laurentold me.

Thatfondmemoryeventuallybecameaseed forwhatwouldbecomeareal-lifedreamwith BiscuitBelly,a“Southernwithswagger” restaurantfranchisesheco-ownswithher husband.Today,thereare19branchesacrossthe South—thefirstonesetupinLouisville.

Butthecoupleweren’talwaysrestaurateurs. Beforetheydecidedtotaketheplungeandshift gearsintoanewindustry,LaurenandChadhad successfulcareersaspharmacists.

“Wejokethatwewentfrompillstopimento cheese,butthetruthiswewerecraving somethingmorepersonal,morecreative,and waymorefun,”saysLauren.

Customersoftenremarkthattheirbiscuitsare

“damngood”.ForLauren,itmeans this:“Adamngoodbiscuitisonethat makesyoustopmid-biteandsay, ‘Well,hellyes.’It’sflaky,buttery, justalittlecrispyontheoutside, tenderontheinside,and sturdyenoughtoholdupto gravy,friedchicken,ora runnyegg.

“There’ssomethingsacred aboutaclassic:afluffy biscuitsmotheredinscratchmadesausagegravy.Butthe bestwaytoenjoyit?Witha strongcupofcoffee,ingood company,onaslowmorning. Maybeeveninyoursweats.Let itdrip.Lickyourfingers.That’s thevibe,”sheexplains.

Itwasstillpropermorning(before 10am)whenItriedtheGravyTrain:mini biscuitswithpotsofthreegraviestotry— sausage,mushroomandsmokedgoudamornay. It’sstillverymuchSouthernbutafarcryfrom traditional.Andthat’ssortofthepoint.

KENTUCKY, USA

GETTINGTHERE FlyfromAucklandto GeorgeBush IntercontinentalAirportin Houston,TexaswithAir NewZealand,thendirect toLouisvilleInternational AirportviaUnitedAirlines.

DETAILS

gotolouisville.com Thejournalistwasaguest ofTravelSouthUSA.

Left,fouryearsafter winningBestBakerin America,JackieJosephset upJJBakes&Co;farleft, BiscuitBellyserves“damn goodbiscuits”;below,asoy saucetastingwithBourbon BarrelFoods. Photos/The FoodNetwork,Goto Louisville,JoshMerideth Checklist

“We’renotheretocompetewithyourgranny’s kitchen—we’reheretoevolvethecategory. Southernbreakfasthasdeeproots,andwe’re proudofthatheritage,butthere’salsoroomfor innovation,humour,andalittleover-the-top indulgence,”Laurenexplains.

“Wewantpeopletowalkawaysaying,‘Ididn’t knowbreakfastcouldbethisfun.’”

Unapologetically,itwasa“hellyes”fromme. biscuitbelly.com

JJBakes&Co

WhenchefJackieJosephlosther jobduringthepandemic,she tookagambleandappliedto competeinseasonfourofthe FoodNetwork’sshow Best BakerinAmerica in2021.It paidoff—shewon.

“Somanytimesinthe seriesIthoughtthisisit ...I’mgoinghome.Ithink itwasjustmyownmental battle...IfeltI’msuchan underdoggoingintothe competitionbecauseI hadn’tbeeninakitchenfor overayear,”Jackietoldlocal newschannelWHAS11. Fouryearslater,I’matthestore Josephsetupwithher$42,000prize money.It’scalledJJBakes&Coand it’sinsidetheOmni;afour-starhotela shortdrivefromthecity’sairport. Ieyedthebananabread.ItwasJackie’s grandma’srecipe,thesalesassistanttoldme.In thecabinet,itwasagiantloafandIthoughtI wouldgetaslice.Iwasnaive.ThiswastheUS, andtheygiveyouthewholeloaf. Now,Iknowmostoftheworld’spopulation hatesthiswordandI’msorry,butnotreally,but thiswasincrediblymoist.Andincredibly banana-ry—that’skey.Theonlydownsidewas thatitwasalsoquiterichandIcouldn’tfinish it.Regrets?Ihavenone. jjbakescompany.com

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