DUENDE
INDUSTRY SPONSOR: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
GRADUATION PROJECT REPORT submitted in partial fulfillment of the Graduation Project of Fashion and Lifestyle Accessories Department at National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad.
Student name: Ms. Aparna Anil Faculty guide: Mr. Satya Prakash (Asst. Professor)
May,2015 National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad.
CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that Ms.Aparna Anil of Fashion and Lifestyle Accessories Department at National Institute of Fashion Technology - Hyderabad, has been evaluated for his or her Graduation Project report titled ‘Duende’ and have fulfilled the requirements set by the institute and the evaluation jury. His or Her work has been found satisfactory.
Mr. Satya Prakash Asst. Professor (Faculty Guide)
Mr. Chiranjeevi Reddy Asst. Professor (Centre Coordinator)
Copyright Š 2015 by National Institute of Fashion Technology. All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording and scanning or other wise in any form without the written permission of the copyright owners. Design: Aparna Anil Printed at Hyderabad, India.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
On the successful completion of my Graduation Project with Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels, I would like to express my gratitude and respect to those who have supported and stood by me. I would like to thank our faculties of NIFT Hyderabad for their valuable guidance and suggestion. I would specially like to thank my mentor Mr Satya Prakash( Asst. Professor) for my guidance in the project. I would like to put on record my deep sense of gratitude to Mrs Pallavi Foley (Founder and Head Designer),Ms. Sooryia Rajeev(Designer), Mr Bipin and all my fellow interns who helped me to understand and appreciate the nuances of the jewelery design industry. Nevertheless, I express my sincere gratitude towards my family and colleagues for their kind co-operation and encouragement which helped me in the completion of this project.
SYNOPSIS
Design consists of shape, form, function and aesthetics that dynamically changes with time. It is the method of problem solving. Design begins from the very reason of existence and up to the cause of it. With this understanding I began my journey of transforming my thought process into commercially viable designs with my accent. The company has a distinct design language which is matured and backed up by experience. Throughout my design journey at the industry I tried putting efforts in develop conceptual ideas. After a series of extensive brainstorming sessions and in depth trend and forecast studies, I started woring towards my collection by following a systematic design process. My designs were successfully offered to the customers & were put forward in various ramp shows. The two collections that I developed during the internship, "Indestructible Love" and "Rangjivaka" consists of a collection of ear rings that speak the language of the boutique without failing to cater the needs of the clients.This document is a humble compilation of the knowledge I gained during my internship at Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels.
CONTENTS
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.
Introduction Company profile Manufacturing process Design Process Initial design brief – collection 1 Market survey Trends & Forecast Boards Conceptualization Final concepts Initial design brief - collection 2 Market survey Trends & Forecast Boards Conceptualization Final concepts Extra project Conclusion Bibliography
1 3 15 19 23 27 33 35 49 54 70 74 77 80 82 86 100 102 104
INTRODUCTION
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The Graduation Project of F&LA department at NIFT is the culmination of 4 yrs of comprehensive & conscientious learning. The learning constitutes an in depth understanding of the international & national markets, changing trends with fashion scenario, & hands ion experience about materials, technology design principles, methodology, design management & design communication.The student is exposed to Indian fashion industry through various realistic industry sponsored projects coupled with intensive industry internship, seminars with industry experts & visits to related trade shows. The GP is an industry focused 18 weeks program structured around internationally followed design approaches. The project gives constructive experience to the student as well as the chance for the company to appreciate our work methodology. Understanding the production strengths of the company & production viability is the final step. This also entails & puts to test our decision making required in understanding whether what looks good on paper would look good in reality as well., followed by the final nuances of the retailing & visual merchandising. They need to understand the numerous of global markets in terms of customers, geographic locations, economically etc. The graduation project encapsulates the various skills imbided during the course of study. The industry sponsored projects provides a challenging for students to extend and demonstrate academic learning. By graduation project a student is benefited in terms of experience of the work environment , development of better understanding of the field, work procedures and become more confident and particular about the respective design field.
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COMPANY PROFILE
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Credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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PALLAVI FOLEY
DESIGN STUDIO Pallavi Foley is a jewellery designer and an artist. With numerous Indian and International design awards to her credit, she passionately follows her heart and love for design. Pallavi graduated in Accessory Design from NIFT (The National Institute of Fashion Technology), New Delhi in 2000. Thereafter she went on to design jewellery for Tanishq and while her nine and half years stint with them she designed many collections for them including the Miss India Universe Crowns in 2006 and 2007.
Creativity is synonymous with Pallavi.Today, she creates hand-crafted sculptural jewels at creative hive is a design studio, which is part of her exclusive boutique, situated at the Leela Galleria, from where she designs and retails jewellery. Each piece of fine jewellery from Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels bears testimony to Pallavi’s personal commitment to design detailing and flawless execution. Apart from having her own jewellery boutique, she also works as a design consultant to many Indian and International jewellery brands. Her creative space is a design studio, a part of her exclusive boutique at the Leela Galleria, from where she retails precious and semi precious jewellery. Apart from having her own jewellery boutique, she also works as a design consultant to many Indian and International jewellery brands.Her enormous ability to think out of the box has created many a masterpiece. The boutique is replete with several expressions of the same. She was recently called the Elsa Peretti of the new generation in the recent edition of Harper’s Bazaar, where World Gold Council had picked the Hottest talents to know. Not only this but in September 2011, she was on the cover page of India today, as ‘a game changer’, where she was a part of the 35 young achievers who broke the rules and made a difference. Her most recent award winning piece, 3-space, won the second place in the Beads category of the 2010 International Saul Bell Award Competition. In Jan 2012, Pallavi was featured in a Coffee Table book called the “Trailblazers of Bengaluru’’ which featured 28 entrepreneurs of Bangalore.
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Pallavi Foley Boutique Studio The Leela Galleria, Bangalore
COMPANY STRUCTURE
Credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
The company structure comprises of a simple hierarchy, consisting of Pallavi Foley as the Creative head. A group of two designers work under the guidance of the Creative Head while the store is handled and administered by two retail staffs. The company welcomes design interns every year, who become a part of the entire team and takes on various design projects. Since the company does not have a manufactuirng unit of it’s own, the jewellery pieces are manufactured and sourced from various vendors in and around Bangalore. The company also has numerous tie ups with jewellery manufacturing units in Bombay as well as Jaipur.
CLIENTELE The company reaches out to a wide range of audience that includes both national as well as international clients.The target consumers falls under the upper middle class category. As a designer, she caters to those who live a very contemporary lifestyle yet is traditional at heart. There is no definite age group that the clients can be placed under and hence the studio contains jewellery for all, irrespective of age or sex. From the demographic research study conducted, it has been understood that a majority customers/clients are working class women, falling under the age group of 24-45. It has also been noted that the demand for customised designs have considerably risen over the past few years. The uniqueness and exclusivity of the piece plays a very important role in the final desicion making process of the clients. The sale statistics are considerably high during festive seasons, such as Valentine’s Day. Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels also provides services to several other companies, both national and international. 6
UNIQUE SELLING POINT
TEXTURES
FEMININE YET BOLD
DRAMATIC FORMS
The exquisitely hand crafted pieces exhibit a lot of dynamic movement and evokes the interest of the onlooker. Every jewelery piece tells a different story by incorporating fine details and noteworthy forms. The jewellery stands out due to the distinctive textures used. The technique of wrapping fresh water pearls in textured gold wires has always been a very significant and exlusive element in all the designs.
Image Credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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PRODUCT CATEGORIES
The collection at Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels comprises of a vast product range, suited for every occasion. Customization of designs are done according to the client’s needs. The other products available at the store are as follows:
• • • • • • • • • • •
NECK PIECE EAR RINGS RINGS WAIST BELTS WRIST CUFFS BRACELETS BROOCH PINS SHORT CHAINS BODY CHAINS LONG CHAINS HAIR ACCESSORIES
THE DESIGN LANGUAGE • The design langugage at Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels follows a definite creative path. The main points conceived after effective brainstorming are as follows: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 8
ARTISTIC FEMININE DELICATE INSPIRED FORMS LAYERS EDGY SENSUAL ABSTRACT STORY TELLING ASSYMETRIC BALANCE LIVES ECLECTIC COUTURE TEXTURES HIGHLY DETAILED
Credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
PRODUCT PROFILE
Over the years, Pallavi Foley has come up with numerous collections of elegant, hand crafted jewellery. Each collection has a whole different story to tell and that makes it a lot more enthralling for the customers. AKIKO The Akiko collection is a celebration of Autumn, also known as fall and is inspired by the elements of nature from summer into winter. With winter on the horizon, the trees begin to dance in the wind shedding its leaves and marking the beginning of Akiko. The silhouettes and the sculpture of the leaves become a lot more abstractly prominent when they are dry. This collection is inspired by the glory of dry leaves.
PRISTINO
Inspired by modern conceptual architecture, Pristino is a simplification of form and creation of ornaments from the structure and theme of urban conceptual buildings. As the name suggests, ’Pristino’ is all about lines, which move along the jewellery pieces. The collection creates a visual emphasis on the way lines interact to generate fluid forms.
Credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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THE 3 SPACE This collection is inspired by Pallavi’s award winning intriguing necklace called ‘3-Space’ which was honored in Las Vegas in the most prestigious JCK. The beads in this collection play with three-dimensional space. Pyramidal beads of pave-set crystals are centered within a gold pyramid-shaped frame. Each double-pyramid bead is threaded through the middle and spins independently, raising interesting questions of space and dimension in the viewer’s mind.
THE SHADOW LACE This collection is inspired by the silhouettes and the shadows of lace, where the concepts of negative and positive, floral and abstraction, have been translated into jewels, with a simplistic feminine approach. Made in sterling silver, tourmalines and fresh water pearls, this hip and trendy collection has chandelier earrings, cuffs, pendants, brooches and necklaces. Intricately elegant and classically stunning, this collection epitomizes the capriciousness of a woman.
Image credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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WITHIN The collection is inspired from an inner core, and has many levels and layers. It’s essentially about modern sculptures and structural geometry. The surprise lies in the inner core, which is dynamic and strong, which looks different from various view points. When one looks at the details of the piece, the inner and the outer units are very uniquely juxtaposed, to give visual balance.
SHEZMIN The inspiration of the collection was the fragrant white jasmine buds which have been favourites of Indian women from times immemorial as they originated near the Himalayas and the Ganges Plains.
Pallavi’s other noteworthy collections include E’lab Vital, Lombok Moon;ight,Organzo curves and the series of Miss India Universe crowns.
Image credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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PRODUCT COST SHEET MATERIAL
MINIMUM COST
MAXIMUM COST
SILVER
1000/-
3,OO,OOO/-
GOLD
19,000/-
21,00,000/-
PRODUCT
MINIMUM
MAXIMUM
Ear Rings
50,000/-
4,50,000/-
Necklace
1,80,000/-
21,000,00/-
Ring
50,000/-
1,20,000/-
Short Chains
36,000/-
38,000/-
Bracelet
3,50,000/-
7,25,600/-
Cord
18,000/-
Pendant
19.000-
4,10,000/-
PRODUCT
MINIMUM
MAXIMUM
Ear Rings
3500/-
26,590/-
Necklace
5000/-
3,00,000/-
Ring
4590/-
7890/-
Cord
1000/-
1600/-
Pendant
4590/-
23,000/-
Bracelet
8190/-
10,900/-
Cufflinks
18,000/-
GOLD
SILVER
COMPETITORS Successful companies will most often have a line of competitiors that they keep a check on. In the business sector, it is very important to follow, learn and be updated about the competitors. This will allow the company to be more aware about the possibilities and work towards it. Competitor analysis in marketing and strategic management is an assessment of the strengths and weaknesses of current and potential competitors.Competitor analysis is a vital part of strategic planning of any company. This analysis provides both an offensive and defensive strategic context to identify opportunities and threats. The main competitors of Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels are Suhani Pittie, Eina Ahluwalia and Amrapali. The elementary design language of these companies revolve around contemporary ideologies which makes them potential competitors. Amrapali’s and Suhani Pittie’s designs are well known for their versatility,use of alternate materials and textures.
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PROMOTIONAL STRATEGIES • WORD OF MOUTH AND SHOWS The brand gets it’s publicity mainly by word of mouth and also through shows and other exhibitions that help spread awareness about the label. • WEBSITE :The official website of ‘Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels’ was launched in the month of March, 2015. • PROMOTION AND ADVERTISEMENTS • SOCIAL NETWORKING SITES The brand has an active page on Facebook that updates the clients with new products and other brand details. Recently, the brand has also been getting a positive response on Instagram and other social networking sites. • SHOWS AND EXHIBITIONS The brand actively participates in numerous shows and exhibitions held in and out of the country. This has helped in establishing various connections in the industry which has in turn helped in the growth of the brand.
Website
Fashion shows/events
Magazines
Social networking sites
Image credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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SWOT ANALYSIS When examining the potential for a new business or product, a SWOT analysis can help determine the likely risks and rewards. SWOT, which stands for Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats, is an analytical framework that can help your company face its greatest challenges and find its most promising new markets. On the basis of the study conducted the important points regarding the SWOT analysis of were listed down
DISPLAY AND PACKAGING DESIGN
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MANUFACTURING PROCESS
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Image redits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels does not have a manufacturing unit of it’s own. The designs gets manufactured from various vendors from all over India.The general process of manufacturing of gold jewellery has been explained below: • Each piece of jewellery starts off with a concept. A concept is basically a rough design in the mind of the designer. The final design is the result of close cooperation between designer and craftsman giving the art object a real hand crafted origin. The designer’s concept and drawings are used by the Model maker to create the original piece of Jewellery.
•Once the master piece of jewellery is c omplete, it is used to make a high technology mould, which in turn is used Moulding to make wax reproductions of the Jewellery. • After the sketch is complete with all the fine details, it is passed on to the moulding section. In the moulding department the very experienced professional moulders then turns the sketch into a master mould which sets the base for the total process there from. The master mould is a very complex level of crafting as the final outcome rests on the master mould. •Casting again is a very complex process and requires utmost Casting skilled and experienced casters for the desired final product. The wax replicas are placed in steel containers which are then occupied with investment powder and the containers are heated in a chamber to 550°C which solidifies the powder and melts the wax leaving behind a perfect effect. Liquefied metal is then poured into the flasks, allowed to cool, then demolished to reveal the jewellery in casting form. •Filing is an essential technique in jewellery making, Filing and although simple in concept following proven practices combined with the right equipment and tools, ensures the job becomes a breeze. • Filing Precious Metals Filing is used in jewellery making to remove excess metal, even out surfaces, smooth or to shape, form and texture pieces.
Image Credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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•Every part must be polished while the mount is being made. The entire mount is carefully made Polishing clean and polished to a the highest degree of smoothness so that each and every part is attractively polished off. After stage setting, the polisher is credit worthy for giving the jewellery a concluding polish. All tinctures of the polishing compounds and rouge must be meticulously got rid of either by careful washing by hand, or by use of supersonic cleaning baths. •After the product has passed from the polishing and finishing departments, it has Embellishments/ to undergo for embellishment process. Decorative processes When the products gets casted and foiled, the required decorative stones of the correct sizes and weight are cut and made with extreme preciseness and are then assorted for the final setting which is done once the products leave the foiling and finishing department. • It requires immense patience and skill to make the master-model and to produce a exquisitely casting free from defects and which needs the minimum of chasing to make it perfect. Applied wire, which may be drawn or stamped out, can also be, classified as inherent decoration. •After the plating process is over, the product is Quality Checking brought to the checking department where each and every piece is checked with excessive attention and thoroughly checked for any defects. This process of quality checking is done by very experienced workers and all the defected pieces are send back to the respective departments.
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DESIGN PROCESS
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Image Credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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The processs starts with the design brief which contains all the key points to the project. The brief is circulated amongst the design team and a group discussion is held. The group discussion is followed by effective research and brain storming. From the data collected from the research, the form generation process is carried out. Simultaneously, a thourough research on trends and forecast is carried out and various styles for the upcoming season is noted and studied. On the basis of trend research, conceptualisation of the forms are done followed by the stylisation procedure. The designs are finalised aand the technical hand rendered sketches are made. The final Product Intent sheets containing all the techincal and manufacturing details,are prepared on corel or paper. The final document containing the sketches are then handed over to the vendor for the manufacturing process.
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The main key to a successful design is to unlock the core of creativity and explore all the vast possiblities.” “Inspiration can come from anywhere. There is no rule. Anything that motivates.” - Pallavi Dudeja Foley
Image redits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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DESIGN BRIEF 1
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”
“Collection of gold plated silver jewelry that brings out the spirit of love-designed for the young, bold and beautiful women. The theme revolves around selfless love, which is a powerful form of energy that can neither be created nor destroyed but can only be visualized and felt in numerous ways. It is a whole new spin on the conventional portrayal of the term “love”. The exquisitely hand crafted pieces signify the complexities of this emotion and how it continues to shine inspite of all the obstacles that it drags along. In the first collection, “Indestructible Love” ,the key words, Absorption, Passion, Protection, Suspension, Intense (Sharp edges and repetitive patterns) and Illusion were given by the company in order to develop various visual boards. The collection is developed for Spring/Summer ‘15. A detailed study of the upcoming trends for S/S 2015 was done. From the research work that was carried out, a set of inspirations that merge well with the key words was taken (Kaleidoscope, Rapid prototyping and String Art) and forms generation process was carried out. The final products will be manufactured in silver, plated with 18k gold. The collection comprises of 6 products.
”
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MARKET SURVEY
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Image Credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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CLIENT/USER PROFILE The collection was developed to cater the aethetic needs of young,bold and vibrant women who love to step out of monotony and stand apart in a croud. They love to wear exlusive jewellery and do not hesitate to go dramatic on their appeal. Being free-spirited and open to change, these women are self dependant and loves to show the world that they are unique in their own ways. The target market comprises of the youth and middle aged working class women from the upper middle class category.The clientele falls under the age group of 25 to 45.
DEMOGRAPHICS AGE: 25 to 45 GENDER: FEMALE INCOME GROUP: UPPER MIDDLE CLASS WORKING WOMAN
PRODUCT PRICE RANGE The product price range of the collection is estimated to be ranging from 7000- to 13,000. The cost factor for parameters such as manufacturing charges, gold and stone prices as well as transportaion charges and such, is variable.
PRODUCT MATERIAL GOLD Gold’s high malleability, ductility, resistance to corrosion and most other chemical reactions.Because of the softness of pure (24k) gold, it is usually alloyed with base metals for use in jewelry, altering its hardness and ductility, melting point, color and other properties. Alloys with lower carat rating, typically 22k, 18k, 14k or 10k, contain higher percentages of copper or other base metals or silver or palladium in the alloy. Copper is the most commonly used base metal, yielding a redder color. A karat, or carat, is a unit used to measure the purity and quality of gold. The higher the karat rating — of the purest possible being 24 karats — the less the gold has been mixed with other metals, such as silver or copper, to make a gold alloy. 24k gold is bright yellow, 99.9% to 100% pure gold that is not mixed with any other metal. 18k gold can be referred to as 750 gold. 29
To make gold more resilient, other metals are mixed with it during the manufacturing of jewelry and gold fixtures. 18k gold, for example, is 75% gold, with another 25% being of some other metal or mixture of metals. 18k gold is less expensive and more dully colored than pure gold. SILVER Silver is a chemical element with symbol Ag and has long been valued as a precious metal. Jewelry and silverware are traditionally made from sterling silver (standard silver), an alloy of 92.5% silver with 7.5% copper. In the US, only an alloy consisting of at least 90.0% fine silver can be marketed as “silver”. Sterling silver is harder than pure silver, and has a lower melting point (893 °C) than either pure silver or pure copper.Britannia silver is an alternative, hallmark-quality standard containing 95.8% silver, often used to make silver tableware and wrought plate. Silver is a constituent of almost all colored carat gold alloys and carat gold solders, giving the alloys paler color and greater hardness. SWAROVSKI CRYSTALS Swarovski (Swore-off-ski) crystal components are regarded as the highest quality machine cut and polished crystal beads in the world. Swarovski crystals are perfectly uniform. Since they are machine cut, each crystal is the same. This means that the height, width and slope are consistent. A hand polished imitator bead will not have as uniform a cut. RUBY A ruby is a pink to blood-red colored gemstone, a variety of the mineral corundum (aluminium oxide). The red color is caused mainly by the presence of the element chromium. Its name comes from ruber, Latin for red. Other varieties of gem-quality corundum are called sapphires. Ruby is considered one of the four precious stones, together with sapphire, emerald and diamond.Prices of rubies are primarily determined by color. The brightest and most valuable “red” called blood-red, commands a large premium over other rubies of similar quality.
PRODUCT TEXTURE According to the research conducted, it has been noted that a majority of the customers feel inclined towards products that has texture incorporated in them. The play of smooth finish along with a rough texture in jewellery has become increasingly popular in the past couple of years. Satin Finish has a soft brushed, lustrous appearance. It is like a brushed finish, but finer grain than matte. The ultra-fine brush lines hide minor scratches better than the other finishes. Matte Finish: Wire brush polishing, yields a smooth, but less shiny finish. Matte Finish has 30
a soft, semi-reflective appearance. A frosted, non-shiny surface effect Brush Finish: This is a texturing technique used on jewelry metals where a series of tiny parallel lines are scratched on the surface with a wire brush to give a brush finish. Hammer Finish: A hand-wrought look which uses the round end of a ball peen hammer to texture the band surface. High polish finish: It is the brightest, most reflective finish available.
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TRENDS AND FORECAST
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The collection was designed analysing and studying trends for S/S 2015. After careful research online(WGSN) and other available resources, various trends for the upcoming season were noted: • The drop earring becomes a must-have for party and occasion offers. Updated with a new-found elegance, while retaining its sense of drama, bold colour and pattern feature heavily. For a progressive, directional look, the modern drop earring is styled singularly, as championed by Céline and, at high-street level. • For metals, silver makes a credible resurgence. Precious and costume jewellery take on a rich, antiquated look as 18k yellow gold inspires the colour trend for metals. Yellow gold dominates this season, appearing in a paler guise than the previous season’s bold yellow gold. Matte and textured finishes become important again, and an aged and distressed look emerges for fashion pieces in the transition to S/S 16. Earrings are the new key item to watch. Big is beautiful: oversized creations drape almost to the shoulder. • Motifs are playful and styled with casual hair. Earrings signify the new glamour. Delicate jewellery is an andote to the oversized statement pieces seen lately as an alternative to the ongoing demand for gold-toned metals
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BOARDS
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MOOD BOARDS
According to the design brief given, mood boards that visually represented the were five keywords broken down into sub categories. The five main words are: • • • • •
ABSORPTION(Liquid-like movements,Heavy, Dense) PASSION (Strong components contrasted with timid ones, Dynamic curves) PROTECTION(Layers, Covering, Protection,Sharp outers, Small openings) INTENSE(Sharp edges, Repetitive pattern, lightness) ENDURANCE(Sudden break of system, interlinking)
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STRING ART The concept of what would now be considered string art is generally credited to Everest Boole around 1845. It is unclear exactly when string art went from the conceptualization stage to practical application. Boole used string art to help teach geometry to her students because it allowed for making lines that contained curves. String - one of the humblest yet possibly most versatile art mediums - enjoys something of an unacknowledged art historical pedigree, having featured prominently in the work of many influential artists. And it continues to make its mark on contemporary practice in a surprising number of ways.Art purists will be happy to know that we’re differentiating work featured here from so-called ‘string art’ - a decorative craft in which thread or wire is wound around nails - although distinctions are frequently blurred and inevitable overlaps occur. All the mentioned key words represents the inspiration, String Art and hence it was taken as the main inspiration behind the collection.
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KALEIDOSCOPE The repitative patterns, sharp edges, layers, strong components and overall dense look that a kaledioscope pattern reflects, made it a possible inspiration to work on.
RAPID PROTOTYPING Since this theme covers represents the key wordsDynamic curnes, layers, repetition and lightness, it was taken up as an inspiration in the initial stages of design development.
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The “Look Book� is a compilation of existing products in the market that follows and shares a similar language of the mood boards. Contemporary jewellery has been given more attention in the context since the collection being worked on has a contemporary flavour.
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A research work was done on the possible techniques that can be incorporated into the designs, keeping in mind the forecast and trends for the upcoming season.
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The materials used in the first collection are 18K Gold and silver (92.5% pure). Apart from these, Swarovski crystals and Ruby’s are also used to enhance the designs further. The materials used in the second collection are Gold, Silver, Enamel and pearls. TEXTURE BOARD
Image redits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
The main textures incorporated in the designs are hammered textures, high polish finish and wooden texture.
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CONCEPTUALIZATION
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EXPLORATIONS
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FINAL CONCEPTS
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PRODUCT NO:1
PRODUCT COST-7467/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 15
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PRODUCT NO:2
PRODUCT COST-7965/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 14GM
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PRODUCT NO:3
PRODUCT COST-9765/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 12
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PRODUCT NO:4
PRODUCT COST-15,750/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 13.7
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PRODUCT NO:5
PRODUCT COST-9765/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 15.2
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PRODUCT NO:6
PRODUCT COST-13,980/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 23
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PRODUCT NO: 7
COSTING- 13,891/-
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PRODUCTS UNDER PROGRESS
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DESIGN BRIEF 2
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RANGJIVAKA
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“
Floral motifs have always been evergreen and one of the most loved trends of all times. With the collection Rangjivaka, I have attempted to bring back the elements from our rich Indian heritage and visualize them in various geometric and non-geometric formats. The collection takes inspiration from Jaipur floral prints in collaboration with certain slightly modern contemporary elements. Rangjivaka is a new approach to combine traditional Indian motifs with contemporary forms. This collection of gold plated silver jewelry, takes inspiration from the traditional floral motifs of Rajasthan. The rich enameling work along with the elegant floral forms, adds a burst of colours and vibrance to the collection and hence the name “Rangjivaka”.
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MARKET SURVEY
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Image redits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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CLIENT/USER PROFILE
The collection is aimed for the youth and middle aged, working class women who is in tune with nautre and loves to explore everything that comes their way. She adores her feminity and loves to make a statement. She is a modern woman who is updated in her fashion statement but also holds on to traditions and values. They fall under the upper middle class category and love to go dramatic and unique. DEMOGRAPHICS GENDER: FEMALE AGE: 25 to 45 INCOME GROUP: UPPER MIDDLE CLASS PRODUCT PRICE RANGE The cost of products range from 7000 to 15,000/-.The cost factor for parameters such as manufacturing charges, gold and stone prices as well as transportaion charges and such, is variable. PRODUCT MATERIAL AND TEXTURE The materials used are the same as that used in the manufactuing of products in the first collection (Gold, Silver and Ruby) . The swarovski elements are ablsent but addionally, enammeling technique has been used. ENAMELING (MEENAKARI) The traditional process starts with the designer (Nacquash, Chitera) and moves on to the goldsmith (Sonar, Swarnakar), the engraver who engraves the design (Kalamkar, Khodnakar), the enamelist who applies the colour (Meenakar), the polisher (Ghotnawala, Chiknawala), the stone-setter (Jadia, Kundansaaz), and the stringer (Patua), all of whom are ingredients of an important chain of craftsmen that create the finished product. However, due to paucity of skilled tradesmen often a single artisan wears many hats as it is the experience gained over the years that comes in handy to perform a multiplicity of tasks. The Meenakars engrave the surface of the metal with intricate designs using a metal stylus which is then filled in with colors. The Meena is then placed in a furnace where the colors fuse and harden to become one with the surface. Thereafter the piece is then gently rubbed with a file and cleaned with a mixture of lemon and tamarind that helps to highlight the luster of each color. Enamel colors are metal oxides mixed with a tint of finely powdered glass where the oxide content controls the shade obtained 76
TRENDS AND FORECAST
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Colour-pop enamel is a key decorative material in glossy applications and distressed finished. Colour: pink and lapis drive colour for stones and crystals. For metals,silver makes a credible resurgence as an alternative to the ongoing demand for gold-toned metals Material & Details: the luxuriousness of semi-precious stones and crystals is balanced with sleek, architectural metalwork.
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Though floral is seen as a perfect spring-summer theme, when it comes to jewelry, one thinks more long term which is now trends in jewellery. The well-designed flower motif goes perfectly with both the traditional sari and an evening gown. The contemporary outlook has seen floral jewelry getting smarter with irresistible combinations of colors, styles, designs and materials used. From pearls to precious colored stones to desi polka and enameling, there are a myriad asymmetrical rounds, half rounds, ovals and spheres are trends in jewellery to give modernity to traditional symmetrical shapes
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BOARDS
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COLOUR BOARD
The enamel colour chart
MATERIAL BOARD The collection shares the same material and texture boards as the first collection. (Reference page no: 48 )
MOOD BOARD
Floral motifs never fail to radiate the feeling of celebration and happiness. It creates feelings of nostalgiaa and love. 81
CONCEPTUALIZATION
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FINAL CONCEPTS
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PRODUCT NO: 1
PRODUCT COST-3038/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 9.46
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PRODUCT NO-2
PRODUCT COST- 73304/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 23
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PRODUCT NO-3
PRODUCT COST-7330/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 20.6
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PRODUCT NO-4
PRODUCT COST- 6417/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 20.6
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PRODUCT NO-5
PRODUCT COST- 4274/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 13.6
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PRODUCT NO-5
PRODUCT COST- 7049/WEIGHT(IN GMS)- 22.2
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EXTRA PROJECT
The piece, “Trumpet Flower’ was specifically developed for the Karnataka Fashion Wek, 2015 collection. It has taken inspiration from the trumpet flower and additional elements have been added to bring out the contemporary flavour and aesthetics.The piece graced the ramp and recieved much attention and appreciation.
Image Credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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Additional products from the collection
Image Credits: Pallavi Foley Boutique Jewels
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CONCLUSION
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I’d like to close this document by saying that working under Pallavi Foley has been an experience of a lifetime. I learned so much about designing and experimenting with different forms to make jewelery. I discovered forms through iterations I could have never thought of otherwise. This experience gave me an opportunity to re-work on my existing skills and update myself to suit the tastes of the changing trends with the guidance of the designers at Pallavi Foley. The jewellery industry is growing at an exceptional rate and the scope of this field in the field of design and art is well differentiated. I have learnt the utmost professionalism in finishing the task and the art of successfully completing designs in the stipulated amount of time.This internship has offered me to expose to myself to the industry and learn different ways of solving a problem and rectifying existing problems.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
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www.wikipedia.com www.pallavifoley.com http://www.sndgems.com/polishing.htm http://www.wgsn.com/home/ http://www.diffen.com/difference/18k_Gold_vs_24k_Gold https://in.pinterest.com/ http://www.sify.com/finance/gold_rates/
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