APJ Vol 10 2011

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2011

Spring Issue Volume 10.

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Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

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Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS

The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ISSN: 1836-9812

Spring Issue Volume 10. 2011

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Look after your clients We would like to introduce our NEW Joyce Blok Natural Skin Care Anti-Ageing range.

These intensive skin care products include a cleanser, tonic lotion, day cream with SPF 15 and a night cream.

Created especially to counteract challenging environmental conditions, this range helps minimise and prevent the appearance of ageing, while defending the skin against free-radical damage.

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1300 665 003

www.completebeauty.com.au

Anti-Ageing Range

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A World of Skincare The only choice for the Specialist Skincare Professional!

With over 30 years experience in product development, Christina Cosmeceuticals is committed to producing scientifically advanced skincare solutions with dynamic combinations of traditional botanicals and cutting edge ingredients. Targeting deficient and excess skin functions, our R & D team carefully develops products that correct and heal complex and multifaceted skin conditions safely and consistently.

Christina’s formulations and treatments have been extensively tested and backed up by solid and proven clinical results, putting the company at the forefront of the skincare industry. IT JUST WORKS!

Building Product Lines that Achieve Optimal Results Christina’s treatments are designed in easy-to-follow step-by step protocol overviews, instructions and guides to facilitate ongoing procedures. Each Product line is multi-stage holistic treatment that addresses a specific skin condition by targeting the biological and environmental causes and symptoms, both internally and externally.

Through a natural synergy between multi-stage treatments and home-use products, Christina’s product lines continue to delight clients by performing beyond their expectations with truly remarkable results in the short and long term.

Education, Innovation, and Professional Advice – Our Commitment to You Christina is committed to provide extensive, in-depth and hands-on training workshops, seminars and conferences At Christina, we believe that healthy skin results are empowered by education, innovation and professional advice. We are committed to supporting the cosmetic professionals to enable the confident treatment of the widest range of customers from prevention and treatment, to maintenance of healthier, younger looking skin.

We train professional skin experts by conducting in-depth workshops including hands-on trainings, seminars and conferences, and offer a collection of training DVDs, protocol overviews and marketing materials for both continued education and promotional use.

Global Presence and Recognition Distributed in over 40 countries worldwide, Christina maintains strong, dedicated, hands-on partnerships with its global partners, distributors, skincare professionals and their customers. In addition, Christina’s strong, global professional presence is highly regarded by international experts in the skincare field and their clientele.

We look forward to reaching more individuals worldwide, improving the health and appearance - one treatment at a time.

Introduce CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS into your business and watch the dramatic results in your skin solutions and profits.

SKIN FACTORS PTY LIMITED TOLL FREE 1800 824 282

www.christina-cosmeceuticals.com.au

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APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS AND NEWS 8-9 20-22 23 76-79 97 105

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CEO's Report Decisions that can change your future APAN Corporate Platinum Membership Spotlight on Products Member Profile APAN Gold Membership

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REGULATIONS, EDUCATION, TREATMENTS

AND TECHNOLOGY 12-13 14 42 44-45 62-63 66-67

New RETURN & REFUND Policy Laws Is Dermal Therapies the new Beauty Therapy?

Treating Pigmentation in Asian skin The Face and Body Connection – Why Synergistic Treatments Work The Eyes Have it – Part 2 Unfair Dismissal and the interpretation of the Law

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, ANTI-AGEING AND INGREDIENTS 16-17 38-40 68-69

Prebiotics and probiotics show skin-health potential Unveiling the Secrets to Longevity Ayurvedic approach to Beauty – using ancient remedies in a modern world 72-74 The role of Telomeres in slowing the Ageing Process 80-81 The skin elixir – Rosehip Oil 84-88 Organic Cosmetics - A Report on Behind the Scene's Activities on Certification 84-85 New Discoveries on the Therapeutic Properties of Manuka Honey 98-101 Resveratrol – Examining the Facts 102-104 Scientific News 106-111 Surgery, Wound Healing & Nutrition

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 28-29 30 34-35 46-49 47

Protecting your practices from Litigation Ask the Expert Clone your A-List Clients and double your income Business In Brief Revisiting our definitions as Beauty or Aesthetics Professionals 52-54 Elegance in High Demand 56-60 Aesthetic Industry Bulletin 70-71 Are you truly client-focused?

82 Give your life Purpose 96 Embracing a new business model – the New Vogue 112-113 Several Vital Facts you should know when seeking Financial Assistance

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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 24-26 27 90-91

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New Horizons Conference Program Canberra Canberra Conference & Expo Cosmoprof Asia

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APJ 4

Editor Tina Viney 07 5593 0360

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Editor’s Note After a cold winter season spring brings new blossoms, fresh colours and the promise of new life back on to our landscape. And so I trust that the same is happening in your own life, at least that is my wish for you.

I recently read a quote that said, The highest reward for a man's toil is not what he gets from it, but what he becomes by it. If you have had to face challenges this year I hope that they have made you a stronger person and that you are still committed to achieving your dreams.

There are so many new developments happening in our industry that promise new hope and greater possibilities for business growth and professional development. There is now an increasing demand for those who practice aesthetics to grow their knowledge and take on more advanced procedures. You will see this also reflected in several articles in this issue of APJ as we have stepped up on certain topics to heighten your awareness of scientifically validated information that you can trust and learn to relate to.

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Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

As we are approaching the busier Christmas and holiday season this is a great time to start preparing on how you will grow your client base. Consider implementing new and innovative strategies that will give your services a more competitive edge and engage consumer confidence in committing to your services and products. Develop a clear plan on what you want to achieve and articulate it to yourself and your staff. Set your goals and targets and start moving forward. Be clear about your direction because what you are vague about you can't experience.

Enjoy the spring issue of APJ and please feel free to give us your feedback. You c a n e m a i l m e o n info@apanetwork.com, phone me on 07 5593 0360 or even talk to me on Facebook as your opinions are important to us and help shape what we are offering you.

Thrive in your profession and enjoy life!

While astute business practices are important so also is the necessity for higher education.

Our aim is to challenge and inspire you, but also to push you a little further outside your comfort zone to look at new information that will allow you to become better able to understand and prepare for what lies ahead. Constantly investigating global developments is a very exciting pursuit for us, as we endeavour to bring valuable information to practitioners and business owners alike.

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Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com Mark Viney Phone: 0412 177 423 Email: apj@apanetwork.com Fax: 07 5593 0367

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Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney

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Tina Viney - Editor

www.apanetwork.com

http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page

Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Produced for Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169 Web: www.apanetwork.com Print Post Approved.

Circulation 6000 Accounts Manager Laraine Coyle 02 8004 5936 accounts@apanetwork.com Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd (APAN) PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt (Education) Wendy Neely (PR & Marketing) Dr Douglas Grose (Scientific) Caroline Nelson (Business) National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Kathleen Begley Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-9812

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior Cover: JOYCE BLOK written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been Phone: 1300 665 003 made to ensure that all scientific and technical information Web: www.completebeauty.com.au presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing.

Email: katie@completebeauty.com.au However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

APJ 5

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The Power of SYNERGY There has never before been a more appropriate time than the present to expand your treatment options and introduce your clients to a new level of result that can rival the best.

When looking at the research, multiple technologies offer greater value and better results, exposing the skin to a variety of currents that target the cells from different perimeters that ensure their best response to cell renewal and rejuvenation.

The new-generation ACCURA manufactured by SORISA is a brandnew innovation that can significantly revolutionise your face and body treatment results, all through the use of one device with multiple applications. Manufactured to comply with the most demanding quality standards ISO9001 and ISO 13485, and supported by numerous clinical studies that validate the efficacy of their application, the ACCURA is the new tool to ensure all the treatments will be delivered with assurance for effective results.

What does it offer?

The SORISA ACCURA is a sophisticated multiple-treatment platform that offers various programs to address a multitude of face and body requirements. ACCURA will provide with the following functions:

HIGH FREQUENCY

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Cosmetic: Flash Actif Cosmetics are intensive active concentrates designed to enhance the skin's vitality through the use of microcurrent.

THERMAL HF Application of heat to stimulate blood circulation: Supports the integrity of capillaries, oxygenation and nourishment Increases waste elimination Improves penetration of cosmetics.

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ELECTROPORATION with gel mask The uses of medium-frequency currents allows different active substance to penetrate through the use of a gel mask conductor connected to four electrodes.

ANTIWRINKE (WrinkleCare Mask) Active substance: Argireline – neuro-muscular inhibitor

ANTI-PIGMENT (LightCare Mask) Active substances: Arbutin, Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Glycolic acid – melanin inhibitor, antioxidant and skin regenerator

HYDRATION (HydroCare Mask) Active substance: Hyaluronic acid – moisture retaining improving structural function

OILY SKIN BALANCE (BlueCare Mask) Oleander and Niacinamide – anti-inflammatory and bactericide

Bactericide and germicide effects for acne and oily skin conditions Tonic and stimulating effect for depleted and lifeless skin Decongestive and calming effect for irritated skin, capillary and post-depilatory care

MICROCURRENT – LIFTING ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Able to perform rejuvenation techniques, which combine the effects of lifting, massage and cosmetic penetration. Microcurrents act on the cells to improve microstimulation, neurostimulation and facial contour. Benefits include: ! Lifting ageing skin structures ! Increase the activity of fibroblasts, improving the quality and quantity of collagen ! Toning breasts and buttocks (with optional accessory)

Massage: Improves relaxation and wellbeing and relieves anxiety and stress

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Before treatment

After treatment

ACCURA has a sleek, modern, compact design and is portable and easy to move. It can be purchased outright, or you can rentto-buy, through a cost-effective rental option of a $600 deposit and a rental of just $25 per week.

For further details contact VOGUE IMAGE GROUP 1800 554 545 or email: info@vogueimage.com.au

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APJ 6

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The essential New-Generation Multi-functional Treatment Platform for EVERY SALON ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Treats face and body Effective Versatile Compact Easy to use Affordable Buy or rent options

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ACCURA

HIGH FREQUENCY LIFTING ELECTROPORATION THERMAL HF

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The new skin

VOGUE IMAGE GROUP 1800 554 545 Ph: 03 9821 0033 Email: info@vogueimage.com.au

CEO’s REPORT

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Reflection: “Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal.”

Henry Ford (1863-1947)

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started 10pm our time to 4am. It was a long coffee night, but well worth it. At the end we were all firing questions and mine was straight after Rebecca Gadberry, who is a world-renowned formulator. There was much discussed as some compelling research was presented. By far the most exciting of all was gaining insight into the way that formulations are going to become even more specialised to address specific needs. For example, the molecular weight of say hyaluronic acid will determine how it will benefit the skin. For supporting the skin's immune defence, the molecular size will need to be larger so that it can work as a defence barrier, while the smaller its molecular size will allow it to target deeper cells, offering a more anti-ageing and cell regenerating benefit. What this means is that we are going to have to advance our knowledge in ingredient chemistry to be able to interpret how best to understand our ingredients when determining skin treatment needs.

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COSMETIC INGREDIENT CONFERENCE Aren’t Webinars such a great invention?

They allow you to take part in conferences that perhaps you would not have had the opportunities to participate in. I recently attended the latest Cosmetic Skincare Ingredients 2011 Virtual Conference and E x p o i n N e w Yo r k s t a g e d b y CosmeticDesign. Because of the time difference I had to stay up late, the webinar

A presentation on Probiotics for skincare also revealed some very interesting information. Most of us are aware of probiotics for improving friendly bacteria in the gut. However, they are now discovering probiotic strands that can help skin with disturbed pH balance such as acne conditions and offer them stronger anti-bacterial protection.

VISORY NE

I was listening to an interesting dialogue the other day on fear and the advice given was don't over-analyse fear or it will paralyse you and keep you stuck in the past.

Take the challenge and take imperfect actions, as they are better than taking no action at all. Sound advice. But, perhaps the most inspirational statement I heard was that if you want someone dead, take away from them choice and challenge.

Indeed, pressures can be good or bad for us depending on how we choose to allow them to influence us. And if you really want to be enlightened on the subject of survival read the report in this issue on the Longevity Project, it is simply fascinating what it will uncover.

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Have you ever been at a crossroad in your life when the challenges were so hard that you considered quitting? At that critical point the real question you need to ask yourself is would you really want to be in that space if things were not as difficult?

If the answer is yes, then it is not the time to quit. What you need is to review what adjustments need to be made as well as gain from a large helping of encouragement.

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Dear Colleagues and Friends

AESTHETIC

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Hand-held devices will become the next big boom offering skin analysis possibilities to department store cosmetic consultants that will demonstrate to the client how the specific ingredients in a skincare product will benefit their skin. These devices will allow the client to return after several days or weeks of using the product to evaluate how their skin has changed. Note, that I didn't say that the cosmetic consultant would be discussing the product, but the ingredient within the product.

These developments will require that we gain a more scientific understanding of the skin and be able to confidently articulate our knowledge to our clients in a more professional manner. I see also professional skin scanners becoming a client-driven item that serious aesthetic therapists will need to include as part of their skin diagnosis. Nevertheless, purchasing one of these devices is pointless unless you also gain the education in understanding the patho-physiology of the skin at a more scientific level. You will still need to know how to interpret findings and direct that information in the appropriate ingredient choices and not just the product choices. We are certainly in for some exciting times.

NEW HORIZONS SEMINAR AND EXPO – CANBERRA This year our educational event NEW HORIZONS Conference and Expo will be held in Canberra on Sunday September 25th. We have an amazing program that I personally guarantee will give you so much valuable knowledge and information that it will renew your excitement and challenge and inspire you. There will be gifts and numerous prizes presented. Please check this journal for further details and register as soon as possible as there is only a few days left. The focus this year will be not only to bring you the latest in industry developments, but also introduce to you new modalities to grow your services and your business.

There will be some excellent companies exhibiting so you will receive the opportunity to be exposed to some quality products and equipment.

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APJ 8

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Floriade Festival will be on in Canberra – the largest and most famous spring flower display you will ever see. At night there will be dancing, acrobatics and numerous festive activities so why not bring the family along for a wonderful time. Enjoy Canberra on Saturday and be inspired on Sunday at NEW HORIZONS. I trust that you will join us. It will be the most inspirational and valuable investment of your time.

MENTORING SERVICES For all of you who are APAN Corporate Platinum Members please note that we are allocating Mondays and Tuesdays as our Mentoring Days. While you can phone or email us at any time with your enquiries, you are also entitled to four Mentoring Sessions per year.

Please contact us to book your time. These services are part of your membership fee so no additional fee will apply. The purpose of mentoring is to help you gain a more in-depth understanding of options you have and reaching a higher level of excellence in your business. You can discuss any matter of concern. For example:

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Business concerns Staffing problems Wages, superannuation Insurance needs Business loans Interest-free lending The reputation of supply companies Ways to save money How to deal with difficult clients

Gold Members can also phone or email us with any quick queries as often as they wish. However, should you require to book a Mentoring Session with an expert, a fee will apply.

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Likewise if you are not a member of APAN but would like to discuss a concern with an industry expert, this service is also available to you at a fee. Please contact us for further details and to arrange an appointment.

Phone 07 5593 0360 or email us with your details on info@apanetwork.com. However, if you are after real value for money, please consider joining and being part of a dynamic and forward moving community of practice.

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SURVEY In order to ensure we develop initiatives with true value and relevance to the industry’s needs it is critical that we allow you to have input into those decision through valuable feedback. This is very important for both you and us. We would really appreciate if you could please take a few minutes to complete the enclosed questionnaire and return it to us by the 30th October 2011. All who enter will be in the draw for three copies of the fantastic book The Longevity Project that we have profiled in this journal. Your support in this regard is greatly appreciated.

Committed to your progress

Chief Executive Officer

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APJ 9

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For further information phone the Salon Group on 1800 655 814 or Email salons@salonsgroup.com Web: www.dashingdivapro.com.au

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The Best Alternative to PERFECT NATURAL-LOOKING NAILS Well-groomed hands contribute a great deal to one's confidence. As we view our hands daily the condition of the nails can either have a positive or negative impact on us. Every woman and most men are conscious of the condition and appearance of their fingernails. Most individuals prefer a natural nail in preference to fake nails such as acrylic or gel. Dashing Diva French Wrap Manicure was invented to allow you to offer really lovely natural-looking nails within an Express Manicure service. This service takes about 20 minutes and is charged at about $30, depending on your demographics and client base. It is very easy to use, fast and profitable and tuition is available on-line 24/7 if you need it.

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The best way to trial Dashing Diva French Wrap Manicure is to invest in a French Wrap express manicure kit, which contains all you need including instructions. The kit contains products for approximately 20 Express Manicures and should yield about $600 of income. To ensure clients ask for or about the service, be sure to request your free DASHING DIVA STYLE SALON window decal. We will also include you on our website if you wish for potential clients to access your services. This service is available for free.

FRENCH WRAP PLUS essentially places a permanent smile line on to the free edge of your nail, which you can then harmonise with your favourite nail polish colours. The French Wrap will not deteriorate, become damaged, lift, crack or smudge and removes simply when you are ready. Even better, the wraps are available in narrow band, medium band and wide band and in white or a selection of 20 colours. They work great for toenails too! The product cost per client is just $3. And no free touchups needed.

VIRTUAL FRENCH NAILS is the perfect alternative if you want natural-looking results through a complete nail makeover that offers a flawless finish. It offers permanent pink or white enhancements that are fitted very quickly and offer a much easier and less expensive alternative to Pink or White Acrylics or Gel, without the fumes, odours or lights. Full coverage overlay nails for special occasions – fast to apply and fast to remove.

GELIFE is a unique product to Dashing Diva. It is a brush-on gel, which is applied like a nail polish and complements the revolutionary French Wrap Express Manicure System.

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Dashing Diva Professional offers free in-house training through the use of online videos and printable materials. Odourless nail and manicure services that can be applied while your client is having another beauty treatment and that can also keep trainees and juniors profitably employed.

The Dashing Dive Website is comprehensive and secure and contains free, downloadable brochures and instruction manuals for all Dashing Diva professional products. The competitive advantage of these products is that they are the thinnest, most flexible and most naturallooking nails in white or colour on the market. No drying time needed; no fumes or odours and they can be easily removed with acetone.

For further information phone the Salon Group on 1800 655 814 or email salons@salonsgroup.com

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Australian businesses, wherever trading in Australia, will operate under a single, national consumer law: the Australian Consumer Law (ACL). New regulations outline how signs can be positioned in business premises outlining the business's RETURN POLICY. The sign is designed to allow your customers to understand their rights to refunds and returns as they make their purchase. It also allows you to communicate your legal rights as a business when an item is not eligible for return.

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As refund and repair claims can be a common source of dispute between consumers and traders, placing the sign at the point where products are viewed for purchase may help reduce these instances.

C O N S U M E R L AW O N RETURNS AND REFUNDS As a basic premise, a customer has no automatic legal right to return goods to a retailer or a business and seek a refund.

However, a customer is entitled to a refund on goods purchased under the following circumstances:

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If the customer was induced into buying the goods by misrepresentation If the goods have a fault about which they could not have known at the time of purchase. (Customers can't complain about defects that were pointed out to them at the time of purchase.)

If the goods are NOT of merchantable quality ( a basic level and quality and performance that would be reasonable to expect) bearing in mind the price and the way the goods were described.

If the goods don't do the job the customer was led to believe they would do.

If the goods don't match the description given when ordered.

If the goods don't match a sample shown when ordering.

If the customer has used the goods and obtained commercial benefit from the use, the supplier may be entitled to deduct a fair amount from the refund to make up for that benefit.

RETAILERS NEED TO BE AWARE OF THE FOLLOWING:

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The time limit for a customer to seek a refund is dependent upon what is reasonable in the circumstances of the particular goods or services being purchased. When customers have problems with their purchase(s) they should bring these problems to the attention of the retailer promptly.

The goods need NOT be returned in original packaging to obtain a refund.

A receipt or proof of purchase should always be requested when a refund, exchange or credit note is requested.

A refund should always be given in the manner in which the original purchase was paid for unless otherwise agreed by both the customer and the retailer. For example if they paid with a credit card, the refund should be reimbursed to that credit card.

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On the other hand a customer is not entitled to a refund when:

‘NO REFUND’ SIGNS

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There is nothing wrong with the goods, but they have changed their mind.

The goods were bought for someone else who simply doesn't want them.

The customer knows, or should have known, about any fault when they bought the goods (ie. if they were seconds).

Additionally, a customer is not entitled to a FULL refund: ㈵

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A customer may also claim compensation for any loss or damage caused by faulty goods.

A customer may be offered a repair, an exchange or a credit note rather than a refund, BUT it is the customer's choice.

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New RETURN & REFUND POLICY Laws

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When the damage to goods is caused by the customer's negligence. The supplier is entitled to deduct an amount from any refund.

Retailers don't have to use signs that explain their policy regarding refunds/returns, but if they are to be used, then they must clearly state what customers are entitled to. The signs don't have to be long and complicated - shorter signs can be used as long as they don't mislead the customer. Disclaimers printed in small font can be considered as misleading, because customers may not see them.

Signs that explain the refund/return policy of a retailer or salon should be positioned as close as physically possible to where the stock is displayed. This way, the customer is unable to enter the store and make their purchase without having been deemed to be in possession of knowledge of the retailer's refund policy.

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There is no point in placing refund policy signs at the Point-of-Sale the customer has already made their selection (if not already completed the purchase) and therefore can't be said to have made the purchase in full knowledge of the retailer's refund policy.

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Signs that impose time limits for returning goods are illegal because they mislead customers about their rights. ㈵

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Commonly displayed signs that breach the Trade Practices Act are:

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No refunds No refunds after seven days No refund or exchange We will exchange or repair or give credit notes but we don't refund

A sign which says: ‘Please choose carefully as we don't give a refund or credit note’ is also illegal as that sign would falsely represent the rights of the customer.

Any sign displaying a refund policy should also state that proof of purchase is required.

Examples of acceptable signs: If goods are sold by sample then the following sign could be used: No refund unless goods are faulty or do not match the sample you were shown.

If mechanical, electrical or electronic goods are being sold (eg personal computers, stereo systems, etc), many customers would rely on the advice of a specialist salesperson. The sign could say: No refund unless the product is faulty or does not do what we said it would.

Goods sold on the basis of what they can do, ie. small devices. In this case, you could use a sign saying: No refund unless goods are faulty or do not match description.

Retailers may want to tell their customers they can't expect a refund if they change their mind. In this case, the following wording could be used: Please choose carefully. We don't normally give refunds just because you change your mind.

Both Consumer Affairs (Vic) and the Australian Competition & Consumer Commission have endorsed the following refund policy:

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In the event that a refund in warranted you could state: You can choose between a refund, exchange or credit note where goods are faulty, wrongly described, different from a sample shown to you or don't do what they are supposed to do. Please retain your receipt for proof of purchase.

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APAN has designed a RETURN POLICY document to suit salon needs. We have laminated it for your convenience. If you would like to purchase one please contact us on 07 5593 0360 or info@apanetwork.com. The cost is just $13 including postage.

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APJ 13

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furthereducation Is Dermal Therapy the New Beauty Therapy?

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by April Jorgensen Director, Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science ㈵

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Many therapists who have been active in the aesthetics industry will be aware of the significant changes to beauty therapy services over the past five to 10 years.

The traditional beauty salon offering services such as manicures, facials, waxing, etc may soon become obsolete. Replacing these traditional beauty services are Dermal Therapies. The term Dermal Therapies refers to a range of treatment modalities encompassing laser, IPL, superficial chemical peeling, microdermabrasion, skin needling and other light-based therapies.

Dermal Therapies are also considered as treatments, which provide consistently visible results as opposed to “fluffy” or “feel-good” treatments.

In addition to new technological advances in aesthetic equipment, consumers have also increased the demand for Dermal Therapy treatments. Consumers are now more results-driven, willing to pay more and endure down time for a service that will make a visible change to their skin. Relaxing wellness treatments are still in high demand, though the divide between spa and dermal therapy is becoming more pronounced.

These rapid and significant changes in the aesthetic industry lead us to consider whether traditional beauty therapy will be entirely replaced by Dermal Therapies, which will merge further with the cosmetic medical profession.

WHAT IS A QUALIFIED DERMAL THERAPIST? The title Dermal Therapist is fast replacing the title of Beauty Therapist for providers of Dermal Therapy services who have a graduate qualification in Dermal Therapy. A graduate qualification is referring to a nationally accredited or a higher-education qualification, which is specific to Dermal Therapies. This does NOT include short, paramedical or laser safety courses.

Being able to use the title Dermal Therapist has many advantages, especially in relation to promoting dermal therapy services. As the market expands and more competitors enter the field (especially competitors who hold no formal qualification in either health, beauty or dermal therapy), clinics need to have an edge over their competitors. Having staff that hold the title qualified Dermal Therapist will certainly act as an excellent marketing tool, not to mention the fact that your treatments will be safer and more effective.

WHICH COURSE IS BEST FOR ME?

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There is a range of courses available throughout Australia, although to select the most appropriate course requires you to consider in which type of clinic you wish to work and in which scope you wish to practise. For example, if you wish to have more of a role in patient care, theatre assisting and/or injectables, you need to consider a course that has nursing or medical-assisting pathways. If you wish to work within a non-medical clinic, then a graduate course in dermal therapies would be ideal. Whichever course you select, be sure it's nationally accredited and industry recognised by your future employers.

You also need to consider return on investment, for example is a

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$30,000 university degree going to significantly increase your employment opportunities and augment your salary?

For therapists currently working in the industry who wish to commence practising dermal therapies, you need a course that will provide flexible study modes and timetables. This is especially relevant to clinic owners. Without the option to study online and select the number of hours per week committed to study, clinic owners are hard-pressed to find the time to gain a formal qualification.

Fortunately, courses such as the Vocational Graduate Certificate in Dermal Therapies and the Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science provide students with these flexible course options.

TRANSITIONING FROM BEAUTY TO DERMAL THERAPY The transition from beauty to dermal therapy is not just about learning skills in dermal therapy. A successful Dermal Therapist has an understanding about medico-legal issues and the duty of care required for patients undergoing dermal therapy procedures. Skills and knowledge are required in areas such as communications, written and photographic documentation, nursing ethics, risk assessment and management and referral to other healthcare practitioners.

Key performance areas also include a broad knowledge of anatomy, physiology, skin science, psychology and surgical and non-surgical cosmetic procedures.

For more information about transitioning from beauty to dermal therapy, you can contact the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science on 08 9382 4788 or email enquiries@aacds.edu.au

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Prebiotics and probiotics show skin-health potential Friendly bacteria and the fibres they feed on it may be the next big entrance into the skin care ingredient sector, with data showing their potential for boosting skin health and preventing conditions like acne. But before we look at that let us consider the role of probiotics in health.

When it comes to probiotics research is coming up with all sorts of interesting information. If you look closely, you will find many reports on bacteria playing a significant role in the arrest of several illnesses. In fact you will find a report in Scientific News in this journal where the link to gut health and depression has been identified.

In most cases it is a lack of certain strains of bacteria. Once this happens, there is an imbalance and different illness may take hold.

The most common signs of a bacterial imbalance are digestive problems with constipation or diarrhoea, food allergies and sensitivities, sugar and carbohydrate cravings. Often the person is fatigued with poor concentration and may be more prone to colds and flus due to a weakened immune system.

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Every living thing in existence today is the result of a union of bacteria. In fact the first mitochondrion in human life is as a result of two bacteria uniting. No plant, animal or human can survive without bacteria. In humans the gut alone is host to over 500 species of bacteria and more are discovered every year.

Each species plays its vital role in helping to keep the gut clean and healthy, keeping the probiotic (good) and pathogenic (bad) bacteria levels in balance and in turn, keeping the host alive.

Beneficial bacteria or flora do much more than counteract pathogenic or unfriendly bacteria. They also provide us with other powerful benefits. In fact, friendly flora benefits the body in the following ways: ! Cleans the intestinal tract, purifies the colon and promotes regular bowel movement ! Contributes to the destruction of moulds, viruses and

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parasites Increase the number of immune cells Creates lactic acid, which balances intestinal pH Protects us from environmental toxins, reduces toxic waste at a cellular level and stimulates the repair mechanism of the cells Helps maintain healthy cholesterol and triglyceride levels and breaks down and rebuilds hormones Manufactures vitamins B1, B2, B3, B6, B12, A, D and K.

While acidophilus is the most commonly known probiotic there are many more bacterium needed for the entire body. Acidophilus is just one strain of bacteria that inhabits a specific part of the digestive tract.

However, there are over 500 strains that are needed to replenish the body.

One way of increasing the friendly bacteria in your body is through supplementation, and while this is beneficial it is also a good idea to look for foods that provide a good source of friendly bacteria. A safe alternative is to get your bacteria from fermented goods such as a naturally set unsweetened yoghurt, or fermented cabbage. If you consider that fermented cabbage has 20 times more viable vitamin C in it than before the fermentation process, then you can understand

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that you will also receive a higher level of vitamins, minerals, amino acids and enzymes.

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PROBIOTICS LINKED TO BENEFITING CHILDREN WITH DERMATITIS

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A study from Ukraine has found that supplementation with probiotics for two months had significant benefits for children with atopic dermatitis, adding to the growing body of evidence for the bacteria's skin-health benefits.

Conducted using a mixture of probiotics from US-based UAS Laboratories, the study involved 90 preschool children with moderate to severe atopic dermatitis (AD).

AD, also known as Eczema, is one of the first signs of allergy during the early days of life and is said to be due to delayed development of the immune system. It is a common inflammatory skin disorder, which occurs in early childhood and may persist into adult life. According to the American Academy of Dermatologists it affects between 10 to 20 per cent of all infants, but almost half of these kids will 'grow out' of eczema between the ages of five and 15.

Current treatments focus on alleviating symptoms, but probiotics have been studied for over 20 years for their therapeutic benefits for the condition.

PROBIOTICS IN TOPICAL SKIN APPLICATION The inclusion of probiotics and prebiotics in skincare has now attracted the attention of researchers. (Probiotic is traditionally a gutfriendly bacteria that has a positive impact on health, while prebiotic is the material that selectively supports the proliferation of probiotics.)

A company called Glycologic Limited is at the forefront of research in this area, and while the studies are still in their early stages they feel that this is going to be an exciting new study as findings for the benefit of skincare are being investigated. They presented information about these studies at the recent Skincare Ingredient Conference in New York.

“This area is embryonic in terms of development,” explained Dr Farage Al-Ghazzewi and Prof Richard Tester. “It is difficult to study due to the dynamics of skin microbiology.” However, this has not stopped researchers’ interest in to the potential skin-health benefits of probiotics and prebiotics, and studies have already shown that the ingredients, together or alone, show potential for a range benefits, from wound healing to the prevention of acne.

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Also, at the Beauty from Within conference in Paris, Professor Christine Lang, Managing Director of OrganoBalance spoke about the emerging area of probiotics for skin-health. Lang said that OrganoBalance's primary focus is on the topical application of probiotics, but it is also looking into oral applications of probiotics for skin and beauty. According to Professor Lang, the potential benefits of skin probiotics would depend on how each microorganism is selected, and the specific effects that they have on the skin. For now, she said that it was important to find how different probiotic microorganisms affect the skin microflora.

This is definitely an area that is attracting a lot of excitement in the scientific world, and as successful conclusions are identified so we will start to see probiotics entering the cosmetic manufacturing industry. Meanwhile, suffice to say that incorporating probiotics into our diet is not only good for our health, but can also contribute to a healthier skin.

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THE NEW GENERATION OF BIO PEELING ㈵

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Patou Aesthetics Distribution Patricia Mangano Ph: 07 4057 8365 Mobile: 0419 665 383 Email: patriciamangano@hotmail.com Web: www.patou.com.au

APJ 17

Inflammation and the link to PREMATURE AGEING

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Scientists have long known that the root cause of most skin damage is inflammation. Fifty years ago, Dr. Denham Harmon first documented the connection between inflammation and skin damage while researching the destructive impact free radicals have on cells.

agent. Calcium alleviates dryness while selenium is one of the most potent anti-skin cancer agents. Together these ingredients act to prevent inflammation and premature skin ageing.

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Thirty years ago, Dr. Kligman and Dr. Lavker detailed the role that inflammation plays in visibly ageing skin. More recently, science has identified a link between inflammation and multiple disease states, including heart attacks, colon, skin and prostate cancer, as well as ageing of the skin.

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the skin from environmental stresses. Improves DNA protection and cell function. Anti-glycation agents.

Probiotic Lactobacillus – Boosts the natural immune system, protects cell DNA and improves the skin's protection mechanism against stress-induced symptoms. It reinforces healthy levels of the skin's natural flora.

SOOTHING/ANTI-INFLAMMATION:

Christina Cosmeceuticals has just released a new product innovation called Unstress that has been formulated exclusively to target inflammation. Unstress contains a range of highly specialised products and treatments that work effectively to deliver amazing results. Scientists have worked extensively over six years carefully studying the causes of inflammation, diseased and damaged skin and the best possible ways of treating these conditions, with many of the ingredients being sourced by the Pasteur Institute in France.

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Unstress is the result of this extensive study and is scientifically validated to bring unsurpassed results to stressed, ageing and inflamed skin. It achieves through its cutting-edge innovative formula utilising a powerful synergy of leading antioxidant and immune defence ingredients. These include:

ANTIOXIDANT AND IMMUNE DEFENCE INGREDIENTS

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Quintescine: Di-peptide 4 – A deep-penetrating antioxidantpeptide. Improves DNA protection and cell function to reinforce the skin's natural defences and minimise vulnerability to stress induced skin damage - also a powerful anti-glycation agent.

Venuceane: Thermus Thermophilus ferment – A ferment bacteria found in the Pacific Ocean and thrives in extreme conditions (extreme temp, pressure, pH and FR concentration) - a powerful anti-oxidant and anti-peroxidant agent.

Omega 3, 6 fatty acids – A precise amount of these fatty acids reverses destructive processes of stress-induced skin damage, helping create skin regeneration.

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Pycnogenol (Pine), calcium and selenium – Natural antioxidant and antihistamine agents. Pine is an anti-glycation and anti-inflammatory

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Collaxyl: Hexapeptide 9 – A unique deep-penetrating peptide known to repair collagen-breakdown caused by daily environmental damage, enhance dermal collagen synthesis, strengthen dermo-epidermal junction and improve epidermal regeneration and differentiation. The result is measurably improved elasticity and skin resilience.

Ceramides – Represent 40% of the ICM and play a vital role in barrier homeostasis to > Prevent Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) > Unite the stratum corneum layers protecting skin cells > Restore and regenerate the epidermal lipid barrier > Enable deep skin nourishment Venuceane: Thermus Thermophilus ferment – Reinforces cutaneous barrier, improves skin moisture, corneocyte cohesion/ membranous tissue found in the epidermis' vertebrates.

Unstress offers you the ultimate solution to achieve significant improvement on stressed, inflamed and sensitive skin by treating the cause of the problem. It not only offers successful antiinflammatory outcomes, it also supports the skin's immunity, improves hydration levels, nourishes and repairs the skin and defends it against environmental damage and premature ageing.

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inflammatory, antiseptic and anti-bacterial agent. Inhibits IL-1 and PGE2, which are responsible for excess inflammation, while soothing irritated skin and reducing symptomatic redness.

Venuceane: Thermus Thermophilus ferment – Powerful antiinflammatory agent - this gram-negative bacterium lives and thrives in extremely hot environments.

Omega 3, 6 fatty acids – These vital proteins reverse destructive processes of stress-induced skin damage, helping create skin regeneration. First line of defence against eczema and eczema flares.

Frangipani milk – Relieves skin irritation and provides a calming effect on aggravated and oedema in the skin.

Cucumber extract – To soothe and calm irritated skin and provide strong anti-itching and anti-inflammatory relief.

Sodium Hyaluronate – The critical agent in preserving tissue hydration. Its water-holding capacity within the stratum corneum prevents skin damage, while providing elasticity and suppleness.

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Hypericum Perforatum (St. John's Wort) – Potent anti-

For further details contact SKIN FACTORS PTY LTD

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Camellia Sinensis (natural green, white and red tea) Leaf Extracts – Antioxidant-rich and detoxifying complex. Protects

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DECISIONS that can change your future

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By Tina Viney ㈵

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I recently received a card that said, “Nothing splendid has ever been achieved except by those who dare believe that something inside them was superior to circumstance”.

This statement resonated with me as I observe the uneasiness and fear of some, while also noting the thrill of others within our industry who are identifying new opportunities and positioning themselves to gain from them.

I was speaking with one of our members the other day about what was happening in her region and how she was handling the challenges of change. She told me that her business was experiencing steady growth, while around her salons were closing their doors. I asked her where does she see this going and she was quick to respond, “I believe the weak will leave the market place and the stronger will grow and become even stronger”.

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Throughout every State we are seeing polarisation happening as a common phenomenon, smaller resource-poor salons are leaving the market. In fact, our records show just from the interactions with our database that over 300 businesses Australiawise have closed their doors in the past 90 days.

Meanwhile, from our observations those that recognise the need to make changes have also seen how they are in a better position to capitalise on the transitions in client expectations and market spending that is now taking place. It is amazing, but most of the salons that are booking with us for a

mentoring session are often not the struggling ones, quite the contrary, they are mostly quite successful. However, in their diligence to get it right they seek to gain an even better understanding on where to invest in their growth. While they are doing their own research on client needs they are also acknowledging the value of identifying global forecasts and trends from our own research findings and recommendations. Such information helps them validate their position, knowing that they have included in their planning strategies what will see them well into the future and are in a better position to continue to add new clients to their existing database.

WEB-BASED GROUP DEALS As a standards body and advisory network organisation it is appropriate for us to analysis new initiatives that are entering the market and put forward an unbiased view on what our findings are confirming. With regards to the recent web-based group deals there

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has been a great deal of activity and interaction from the industry about the damage they have brought to many businesses. For the purpose of objectivity I will present our perspective.

Let's face it, it is common knowledge that consumers are tightening up their belts with their spending due to financial restrictions. However, they are still longing for the thrill of a bargain and for the notion to be able to buy things that will give them pleasure and joy. We are all familiar with “retail therapy”.

Here is where some marketing companies have seen the opportunity to create a fun, interactive platform that will give consumers the opportunity to afford some of life’s most pleasurable luxuries that perhaps they could not otherwise.

For many consumers these deals are a godsend. You open your computer in the morning and there is another hot deal that will offer you incredible savings for fun and exciting things you thought you could not afford, but now you can.

The question is not whether this marketing tool is bad or good, because this will depend on which side of the deal you are standing the receiving or the giving end. The question is, does it benefit you as a salon business? This should be the deciding factor that determines if you choose to take it on.

Having investigated these operations in some depth we have put together some guidelines to help you. Suffice to say, however, our observations reveal that most of the achieving salons are definitely not engaging in this tactic to gain new clients as they are not interested in the calibre of client that takes up these offers. However, if you want to gain some new clients from these deals here are some of our recommendations: 1. Conduct a thorough research, the various companies as they differ in what they are offering.

2. Limit the number of offers you will accept eg, accept only the first 20 if you have a small staff team.

3. Look for flexibility for you to determine the days that these vouchers can be redeemed eg. on your quieter days, perhaps Mondays and Tuesdays.

4. The company allows you to make the offer financially viable for you eg. $150 facial for $90.

The common practice of charging $49 for a $300 package is very dangerous, and financial suicide for the salon as it is impossible to deliver. From our information some salons that have accepted to offer such deals are purchasing very cheap and low-grade products to deliver these services and not the quality salon products they normally include in these treatments. According to the Trade Practices Act this is considered as “misleading advertising” and an offence for which you can be fined.

SEVEN WINNING STRATEGIES TO RETAIN AND GROW YOUR MARKET SHARE There are always great business principles that no doubt many of you may be aware of and are putting them in place. However, there are seven strategies that should be incorporated in whatever you are doing if you want to succeed.

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1. KNOW WHO YOUR CLIENTS ARE To meet with your clients’ needs and expectations, the more you know about them the better. Record their name, date of birth and occupation.

Include education, marital status, number of children and their hobbies. What are their goals, what do they want to achieve, not only from your services, but also from their life. What frustration do they want to disappear? What are their fears? Find our what they perceive as the most annoying, urgent or important problem. What are their needs, wants and desires? Are they interested in better-looking skin, anti-ageing strategies for their appearance, services that will assist them with weight-loss, or wellness programs that will make them more healthy? Are they interested in appearance-enhancement medical aesthetic treatments? Are they interested in Cosmetic Tattooing? These questions will provide you with valuable information, even if you don't provide all these services at the moment.

From your clients' profiles will emerge how you can then provide them with solutions that they will respond to and take up.

2. KNOW YOUR NICHE AND MAKE A PUBLIC STATEMENT ABOUT IT It is important to give out clear messages. Let people know who you are and what you stand for. Update your mission statement and your vision. Make this known to your staff and introduce it through a group discussion so that they can have input on how to interpret it and implement it. It is important that you put it up on your wall for your clients to see, but it is equally important for your staff to live it.

At APAN we have a formal Manifesto that you can find on our website www.apanetwork.com. It defines what we believe and what we stand for. Why not write your own manifesto?

Another tool that we provide is an Induction Program with KPIs for the APAN Code of Ethics. This document is in itself a Standards Document. Salons who orientate their staff through this Code are given permission to advertise the following: “All our staff adhere to the strict National Code of Ethics as set out by a leading industry standards body - the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network.”

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This gives them a competitive advantage, assuring their clients that they can expect a new level of excellence from that establishment.

Furthermore, for insurance purposes it is considered as a respected risk-management procedure. This document can be purchased for $85. However, as a Corporate Platinum Member of APAN you receive it for free.

money every day. Clients need to be contacted regularly with updates on offers, new information on services you are introducing and keeping them up to date with interesting and compelling information that will entice them to come and visit you on a regular basis. Offer them rewards, value deals, remember them on their birthday and other special occasions and reward them for referrals.

3. PROBLEM- SOLVING STRATEGIES

Apart from a website, e-newsletter, texting them with the latest offers, don't forget to also keep your Facebook interesting. All these tools will continue to engage them on what is on offer and the various other ways that you can provide them with a quality service. Remember that sales is the ability to influence others to overcome their distractions, apathy, fears and procrastination to take what you have to offer them. If what you are offering them meets with their needs the transition will be much easier.

Don't let problems make you turn against yourself and your staff.

Instead seek solutions. Problems and conflict are often symptoms of a lack of policy for a particular area, or a policy that is no longer working and needs updating. Your current policy may be inadequate to address current changes or new circumstance. With appropriate guidelines you can often restore order. Problems often occur because of a lack of clarity of what is expected, as the expectations may have changed and need to be clarified.

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7. LIFELONG LEARNING 4. SEEK EXPERT HELP During challenging times one error can be detrimental to both your emotional and financial position. Time is of the essence. These are not times to white-knuckle the challenges and go at it alone as this can be very risky. Reach out to organisations that have expertise in giving you proven strategies and an objective view. APAN's Helpline is a wonderful resource. You can access a leading expert to help advise you in solving your problem. We have incredible knowledge and resources and offer you the benefit of our experience and a valuable objective perspective. APAN has a large pool of experts that underpin the organisation's credibility - including legal advisers to help with staffing and industrial relations issues that are becoming increasingly more complex. It matters not if you are a salon, spa, staff member, college, student or a supplier; we offer solutions for everyone. This service is provided free for members or at a fee for non-members.

5. SELECT YOUR STAFF CAREFULLY There has never been a more important time to make sure you have the best staff, as poor staff contribute to financial and reputation loss.

APAN has an incredible Staff Interviewing Document for business that covers questions to ask during interviewing a prospective staff member to determine 25 different attributes that you may wish to uncover on that person. This document as been developed by a highly qualified and very experiences Staff Recruitment Officer and is an invaluable tool that is very easy to follow. It you wish to purchase a copy please contact us.

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Additionally, we would like to recommend the services of a very competent recruitment agency known as Kindred Personnel Solutions. Director Jennifer Muldoon is highly qualified in this area and has a strong understanding of the industry and its needs. She is also a qualified Beauty Therapist and has worked in various positions within the industry. These included employee, sub-contractor, trainer, business owner and employer, the full spectrum of positions, giving her valuable experience in understanding the various needs of each position. For over 20 years she has worked with some outstanding practices in Aesthetics, Natural Therapies as well as Allied Health Sciences. She is highly intelligent, skilled and very capable and successful in helping salons find quality staff to meet their needs. For further details visit the website www.kindredpersonnelsolutions.com or check out her article in this journal.

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Experts tell us that marketing is 20% tactics and 80% psychology, and psychology is a science not an art. Once you understand your clients and their needs then the science of persuasion will help you make

While engaging with your supplier and gaining skills and knowledge for products and treatments is valuable and essential, this should not be your only source of education. Additional to that you should also look at increasing your qualifications, or gaining skills and credentials that are independent from a commercial product. For example, Gay Wardle's advanced skin analysis training is considered now as an essential training program for all who wish to achieve more advanced results from their skin treatments. Her training will give you a more comprehensive and scientific grounding of the skin that will allow you to better understand the implications of change within the skin and how they effect manifestations such as vascular conditions, skin ageing and the various types of pigmentations. This information will better qualify you to gain much more advanced results from your treatments, and it is these results that will also keep your clients loyal to you. To find a training date visit www.masterdermalacademy.com I am amazed at how many salons view education as just being product related and miss out on the knowledge that broader education can empower them with. Read your magazine and journals and invest in several of them. Most professionals in other industries subscribe to at least 4-5 publications that relate to their industry. It should be the same for us. But you need to make time to read them. My suggestion is once you receive a publication take a few months to just go through it and mark with a highlighter pen the article that you feel you must read. Then with another colour highlight the ones that may be of interest. Then when you go back to it when you have more time assess what you need to read and read those articles first. Broaden the scope of your information base. Don't just read things that only relate to your current practices. Expand your horizon.

These are valuable resources that are information-dense to help you grasp what is happening in your industry, even if there are things you are not currently offering. Shape your mind on an incremental basis with credible knowledge that will cumulatively contribute to wise decisions when you need to take them.

There are several short post-graduate courses on offer that can sharpen your skills and allow you to gain expertise in new modalities through new qualifications. Invest in those as well. If you want direction on these please feel free to contact me.

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In closing, I want to encourage you that while challenges can be uncomfortable and even painful while we are going through them, they are key contributors to our growth and help build our muscle of resilience that will get us to the next level. It's all a matter of perspective. Meanwhile, please feel free to contact us if we can be of any help.

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I am COMMITTED to EXCELLENCE in serving my clients.

APAN is COMMITTED to EXCELLENCE in taking care of my needs.

That’s why I’m a Corporate Platinum Member of APAN.

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For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 Email info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com and download a Membership Application Form.

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New Horizons Business and Professional Development

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Conference & Expo 2011 NATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE Canberra ACT Sunday 25 September 2011 CTI PRA TION S 8.30am – 4.30pm

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The Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network presents

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APAN Education - Networking - News - New Releases - Prizes and Rewards - Fun

An event that will change the way you view your profession and your business WHY YOU SHOULD ATTEND THIS EVENT

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What are the overwhelming global, economic and business trends driving your industry today? What should you know that would help you make the right decision to prepare you for tomorrow with greater confidence? If you wish to find out then this event is for you.

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Step out of your daily operations to share a bird's-eye view on what is happening nationally and internationally Hear what experts consider as the primary future opportunities Benchmark your strategies on expert recommendations Understand the major trends and the impact on your business Network with like-minded professionals Re-ignite your passion and sharpen your focus on what you want to achieve

CONFERENCE PROGRAM Time: 8.30am – 9.15am SALON SECRETS FOR SUCCESS Speaker: Gay Wardle Gay Wardle is a highly accomplished and respected educator in the aesthetics industry and a multi-award-winning salon owner. She has extensive experience and knowledge in what is needed to become a leading salon that your clients can't wait to visit and trust your recommendations.

Gay has a real passion for the industry and will present to you her winning strategies that have seen her business flourish even during the most challenging economic times.

You will learn:

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How to achieve the highest level of staff performance Determining what works and what no longer works and why How to identify and capture quality clients How to ensure your business remains a market leader

30-minute break

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Time: 9.45am – 10.30am WEIGHT LOSS – THE NEW BOOM AND HOW YOU CAN BENEFIT Speaker: Dr Dzung Price Dr Dzung Price is a highly experienced and diversified Holistic Medical Practitioner with a passion for innovative wellness. She and her dedicated team continually research cutting edge concepts, products and skills designed especially for the beauty sector.

For the first time at this APAN Canberra seminar, Dr Price will share her professional insights and open the lid on research focused on creating sustainable weight loss and how and why smart weight loss can also increase rejuvenation, vitality and wellness.

Smart, sustainable weight loss is primarily about body contouring through fat burning and it is a multi-layered challenge. However, intelligent aestheticians can be trained to understand and deliver outcomes within their own practices. This is exciting news and potentially a brand-new income stream for motivated therapists and business owners within the sector. Dr Price's seminar information is priceless and will focus on these key questions so you will learn exactly how this can be achieved.

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You will learn:

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The fundamental causes of weight gain Exactly what compromises the body's metabolic processes to cause weight gain How weight gain impacts the ageing process How weight gain impacts disease Latest credible scientific theories on sustainable weight loss New tools available for you as an aesthetician to become a weight-loss facilitator.

1hour and 15 minutes LUNCH BREAK

1.00pm – 1.45pm INDUSTRY FORUM Presenters: Tess Walls, Teresa Russo, Gay Wardle and Tracey Collins

30-minute break Time: 11.00am – 11.45am NEW MARKET DRIVERS THAT ARE CHANGING THE FUTURE OF AESTHETICS Speaker: Tina Viney Tina Viney is respected as leading and influential figure in the Australian aesthetics industry and has won several awards for her contributions in the advancement of education in aesthetics. She has extensive qualifications in both aesthetics and business and is the CEO of APAN and the editor of APJ Journal. Within her current position she dedicates much of her time to investigating global events, research developments, consumer trends, regulatory compliance issues and business strategies. Tina will present new global trends and research findings that will amaze you.

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The new vogue that is redefining the word aesthetics The crucial role of a changed mindset that can change your future The benefit of networks and dynamic collaborations Marketing strategies that are bringing the best results

Hear from colleagues who have identified how to overcome the challenges and embrace the opportunities that have supported their business growth. This will be a candid confrontation where the hottest topics and concerns that are affecting our industry will be discussed.

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The current web-based group-discount frenzy The best strategies that produce a successful and supportive team Shifting trends and how to convert challenges to opportunities How to retain your clients and grow your database.

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APJ 25

2.15pm – 3.00pm THE NEED AND URGENCY FOR HIGHER EDUCATION AND TRAINING Presenter: Professor Ray Hayek

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Dr Hayek graduated in 1999 with a PhD in neuroscience from the Department of Biological Sciences at Macquarie University and subsequently has lectured in a number of health areas, in particular Neurology. Dr Hayek is involved in a number of research initiatives. He recently joined MHM Higher Education as Head of School of Applied Health Science and has a keen interest in assisting the Aesthetics Industry gain greater credibility and recognition. In his inspirational style Dr Hayek will present compelling information that supports the purpose and value of higher education for an emerging aesthetics industry. A new approach to programs and tertiary education will be explored, which may offer the aesthetics industry the opportunity to gain greater confidence and positioning within the healthcare sector as professionals.

Specifically this presentation will focus on: Higher Education requirements Diversifying the scope of training for Aesthetics professionals Theoretical constructs for an emerging profession Pathways for National recognition and registration

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30-minute break Time: 3.30pm – 4.15pm TRANSDERMAL MAGNESIUM ABSORPTION – THE BENEFITS FOR SKIN AND BODY Presenter: Sandy Sanderson

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REGISTER TODAY Each delegate will receive a Statement of Attendance, a SPECIAL GIFT from APAN and numerous other gifts and offers from exhibitors. If you are serious about your profession this event is for you. We don't only promise you that you will find it valuable and inspiring, we GUARANTEE IT!

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FLORIADE 2011 IS A FEAST FOR THE SENSES.

If you have never been to Canberra here is your chance to visit at a very exciting time of the year.

Canberra is renowned at having the most exciting and colourful Spring Festival called Floriade in the whole of the Australia and this will be on right at the centre of our conference. The event starts on the 17th September to 16th October. This year's theme is "A Feast for the Senses" and it promises guests to greet them with the most amazing aromas wafting from the garden beds and beyond. The scene will be set also for spectacular entertainment, horticultural delights and a smorgasbord of activities for the whole family. Be intrigued by the inspired garden-bed designs; captivated by the artistic entertainment; fascinated with the engaging demonstrations and workshops; enjoy family time with fun kids' activities and enchanted by the beautiful ambience of Floriade NightFest.

Why not attend with your whole family? Enjoy Saturday to take in these delights and then finish off with Sunday at the NEW HORIZONS Conference and Expo.

To register visit our website www.apanetwork.com and also check out accommodation recommendations. For further details contact APAN on Ph: 07 5593 0360. As we will be very busy if you cannot get through please email us with a time that you would like us to contact you. Email: info@apanetwork.com

The great benefit of transdermal magnesium is that you absorb magnesium via the skin much more efficiently than if you were to ingest tablets and powders, which are hard to digest and absorb properly through the bowel wall. The majority of people are lucky to get 20% of the magnesium they inject from tablets making it to their tissue cells, as most is excreted. Transdermal absorption of minerals has been done for thousands of years, as people discovered over time that when they soaked in mineral-rich hot springs they experienced a healing and rejuvenation effect. This process is called Balneotherapy and has been formally tested in numerous studies. Sandy Sanderson is a highly qualified and knowledgeable presenter who will have you captivated and asking for more.

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How to enhance your treatment results with the use of magnesium Why the body benefits more from transdermal magnesium What skin conditions benefit from magnesium and methods of application Research information on the various ways that the body benefits from magnesium

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The Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network presents ㄰ 㤵

New Horizons Business and Professional Development

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Conference & Expo 2011 NATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE Canberra ACT

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Sunday 25 September 2011 8.30am – 4.30pm

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Registration: EARLY BIRD’S SPECIAL UNTIL 10th September APAN MEMBERS: $45 NON-MEMBERS: $65 AFTER THIS DATE: Members $65 Non-Members $85

EXTENSIVE EDUCATIONAL CONFERENCE ! New insight into industry changes that will affect your future ! Advance your knowledge on skin science ! Learn the latest principles in improving business ! The latest advancements in aesthetic treatments ! Increase your professional scope through new qualifications ! Technology and the power of synergy how to get it right ! How to introduce the most effective slimming program ! Keys to client loyalty and business growth

WHO SHOULD ATTEND?

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Beauty & Aesthetic Professionals Spa and Massage therapists Nurses and Paramedical therapists Practice Managers Teaching staff Students

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Education - Networking - News - New Releases - Prizes and Rewards - Fun ㈵

An event that will change the way you view your profession and your business For the full speakers’ program and to Register on-line visit www.apanetwork.com Ph: 07 5593 0360 Email info@apanetwork.com

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Protecting your practices from LITIGATION

by Leanne Hodgins Protecting yourself against liability claims is an important part of running a successful business that relies on a regular and loyal client base. The beauty therapists are no different, and protecting a business takes planning.

Working in an industry where your clients expect only the best results places heightened responsibility on aestheticians and beauty therapists to operate and meet those high standards. While sustaining a high level of standard of care is important, you also need to consider how your clients will perceive the quality of your service, should a mistake or accident happen.

In this article Leanne Hodgins, Account Executive at Marsh explains three key types of insurance covers available to the beauty therapy industry. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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APJ1: Can you explain the difference between Professional Indemnity, Public Liability and Product Liability Insurance?

Leanne: Professional Indemnity Insurance: This type of insurance may protect a beauty therapist from legal action taken for losses incurred as a result of the conduct of their professional services. Professional Indemnity Insurance can cover a beauty therapist when a claim is made against them for personal injury suffered by your client.

AN EXAMPLE: Therapists at a busy salon have been run off their feet all day trying to put their appointment schedule back on time. A therapist forgets to ask the client to fill out a consent form, which contains questions about medications and allergies etc. The following day, the client calls to complain as a result of a waxing and requests that the therapist compensates the client for time off work, medical bills etc. This would result in a claim being notified to the insurer due to treatment risk.

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Such claims can have a serious impact on a business. Momentary lapses can happen, which is why it is beneficial for a business to have Professional Indemnity insurance in place. Insurance products can be tricky to understand. There are many inclusions and exclusions that can come with a policy, so be sure to check these carefully before you sign the dotted line.

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APJ 28

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PUBLIC LIABILITY INSURANCE: This class of insurance is purchased by companies and private individuals who seek to protect themselves against certain claims made by members of the public who might be injured on their property. Public Liability Insurance may safeguard beauty therapists against the financial losses that can be incurred in the event that they become personally liable for personal injury.

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EXAMPLE: A client arrives at your salon and fails to notice that some of the floor tiles have been recently removed to fix a leakage. The client slips on the ground and suffers a broken leg.

Failing to put up any signs that notify clients of such changes to a business environment can make a business operator negligent in a Public Liability claim.

We are available throughout the policy placement process and indeed throughout the year to promptly respond to any queries or policy complexities enabling clients' peace of mind when arranging their insurance requirements.

APJ3: What are the most common claims you receive and what should a salon or clinic do to minimise treatment risk?

Leanne: The most common type of beauty therapist claims in our experience at Marsh are focused around the negligent treatment of clients in their day to day activities. Examples include: poor waxing technique, which tears the client's skin; inexperienced laser treatments, which subsequently burn the client and skin irritations as a result of product application.

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Some methods to minimise treatment risk include: In addition to arranging Public Liability insurance there are practices that can be put in place that may reduce the number of accidents happening, which ultimately can have the effect of limiting liability claims against businesses. These precautions include identifying any areas that look dangerous, including entrances, exits and commonly used areas and: ! Removing any items that are blocking a pathway ! Keeping work areas clean of clutter ! Cleaning up any mess immediately ! Displaying signs to warn clients of potential hazards Negligent behaviour can result in reputation or brand damage effects for both the short and long term future of a business.

PRODUCT LIABILITY INSURANCE: Product Liability insurance can apply for liability caused by the goods beauty therapists sell, supply and distribute. Should a product cause personal injury or property damage to a client this type of insurance may protect the beauty therapist against legal liability.

EXAMPLE: A claim may arise if a client went into a salon for a leg wax and also decided to purchase the exfoliating cream at the end of her session but after using the cream a couple of times, she starts noticing an irritation and reaction caused by the product. In an extreme scenario, this condition limited the client's ability to undertake tasks that are part of her role as a personal trainer.

It's important to remember that beauty therapists don't have to operate a business with salon doors or windows for liability claims to be made against them. Beauty therapists who operate a beauty service on their home premises can still be liable if any product they have supplied to a client results in personal injury.

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APJ2. What is Marsh's experience with the beauty industry and how have you streamlined your services to ensure quality support and efficiency in the way you interact with your clients?

Leanne: Marsh is a world leading insurance broker and risk advisor, with a 140 year history, and today services clients in over 100 countries. Marsh has a strong relationship with the beauty industry and facilitates a large and growing portfolio of beauty therapists. In conjunction with Vero Insurance Ltd, our brokers are dedicated to ensuring a streamlined and efficient service through their capacity to issue competitive quotations within a 24 hr turn-around.

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Instructing clients to complete a consent form so as to illustrate potential allergies, irritations/reactions and medical conditions.

Ensuring therapists are adequately qualified to conduct the services and trainee therapists are operating under constant supervision by qualified persons.

Adhering to the APAN Code of Ethics.

APJ 4: As an insurance broker and risk adviser, how do you view the APAN Code of Ethics in terms of an effective risk management tool?

Leanne: The APAN Code of Ethics is a well structured risk management tool available to be implemented by APAN members as a comprehensive guide to industry due diligence. By adhering to the APAN Code of Ethics, therapists will be taking proactive steps to limit their exposure to potential claims scenarios, which encourages the loyalty of your client base and gives salon owners peace of mind.

The hypothetical claims scenarios contained in this article are for illustrative purposes only and should not be relied upon as governing any specific facts or circumstances. Actual claims are governed by the specific policy terms, conditions, limits, and exclusions and are subject to individual claims review by applicable insurer representatives. This article contains general information only and does not take into account your individual objectives, financial situation or needs. *The insurance terms arranged by Marsh Pty Ltd combine the public liability policy and product liability policy in a single “Corporate Broadform Liability Policy”. Accordingly, public liability cover cannot be arranged without also arranging product liability cover.

Marsh Pty Ltd (ABN 86 004 651 512, AFSL 238983) arrange the insurance and is not the insurer. The insurance is underwritten by Vero Insurance Limited (ABN 48 005 297 807, AFSL 230859) (“Vero”). When arranging the professional indemnity insurance Marsh acts under binding authority on behalf of Vero and not on your behalf. Marsh Pty Ltd will act as your agent when arranging the combined product liability and public liability policy.

The insurance terms arranged by Marsh are designed for Beauty Therapists.

Please note that Marsh does not approach the insurance market for alternative products. You have the choice to make alternative arrangements with regard to your insurance options.

For full details of the terms, conditions, exclusions and limitations of insurance cover please refer to the specific policy document or Product Disclosure Statement which is available from Marsh Pty Ltd.

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APJ 29

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ASK THE EXPERT

Solutions, insights and advice for problems that arise at work I need to employ further staff as my business is growing. I know how to check their technical skills and credentials, but what other areas can I examine and is there a tool that can help me perfect my interviewing skills?

In the interview process many employers today are using an interview approach called behavioural interviewing. It is based on the idea that the best way to predict a person's future performance is to examine their past and present performance in a similar situation. It focuses on behaviours, skills, knowledge and abilities that relate to their work.

As an employer you determine which skills are necessary for the position you are hiring. Then you ask questions to determine if the candidate possesses those skills. These skills may include: motivation and passion, team spirit, customer service, interpersonal skills, stress management, decisiveness, delegation, problem solving, respect for company policies, leader or follower, rapport building, flexibility and courtesy and manner, just to name a few. The way your candidate answers the questions will give you great insight how they will conduct themselves in your business and whether they will suit your culture.

The APAN INTERVIEWING GUIDE contains 25 categories and relevant questions that will help you gain the insight you need through the technique of behavioural interviewing. You can purchase this document for $45 from APAN including postage and handling, or if you are an APAN member you can purchase it for $30. This document has been developed by a highly skilled and experienced Personnel Manager and is extremely easy to implement. Additionally, if you require further support and assistance in staff recruitment and development contact Jennifer Muldoon from Kindred Personnel Solutions www.kindredpersonnelsolutions.com

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One of my staff is leaving and has requested a reference. I believe there are now laws that govern what you can and cannot say. Can you give me any guidelines?

According to legal recommendation an employer is not under any obligation to provide a character reference. It is quite acceptable to provide a simple reference that just confirms details of their term of employment and the position they have held in your business. On the other hand, if you wish to provide a character reference and the employee was not good, do this cautiously as you don't want to be held liable for defamation because you provided an unfavourable reference for someone that didn't get the job and is blaming your reference.

The other thing to remember is that intentionally providing inaccurate information about someone or withholding critical information could land you with a claim for misrepresentation from the new employer, with the potential to seek compensation. Our recommendation is that you provide factual and honest information and avoid disclosing personal details that may hinder the candidate securing employment elsewhere. Be also careful not to talk up a poor performer for the sake of securing them employment with someone else. In an instance when you are contacted to verbally respond to an ex-employee's performance and you don't want to be negative, you have the right to decline to answer their question. It is also noteworthy to mention that by law the employee has a right to request a copy of how you responded to being questioned about them.

I am new to salon management and I need to better understand what are KPIs and what benefit can they offer me in managing my staff?

KPI stands for Key Performance Indicators. These can be detailed and complex or very simple to introduce and implement. For the sake of a salon business keep them simple and easy to follow. For example your KPIs can be broken down to: ! A description of appropriate attitude and conduct in handling clients from greeting to their departure from the salon ! An outline of their duties and responsibilities ! Performance objectives and outcomes you expect from them e.g. sales figures ! Compliance to an industry Code of Ethics In essence, KPIs define responsibilities and expectations. They are presented and explained to a staff member orally and in writing. They are then used as a benchmark to determine their performance review say in three or six months time. By providing an objective benchmark to measure their performance it takes away from any assessment being viewed as personal criticism. If you would like to speak to an expert on how to set up your KPIs please contact us at APAN.

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If you would like your questions answered by an APAN Expert send them to the editor at info@apanetwork.com. No names will be disclosed to maintain your privacy.

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APJ 30

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Measurements were performed before the first session and after the last. The patients were instructed not to perform physical activities on the day of the measurement to avoid losing too much water, which could lead to a false assessment of results. Each candidate underwent a blood test to determine glucose levels, urea, creatin, AST, ALT, Gamma GT, alkaline phosphatase and total cholesterol and triglycerides. The patients were also instructed to follow a standard balanced diet. Patients were photographed before and after the procedure.

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Achieving successful BODY SHAPING As part of your anti-ageing protocols your clients will be interested in improving not only their face, but also their body. While diet can minimise weight it sometimes is unable to improve body shape.

Stubborn localised fat can sometimes compromise one's appearance and often these areas are not improved either by diet or exercise. In a bid to improve these concerns many are pursuing liposuction.

However, this method is not without risk, requires hospitalisation and also comes at a relatively high cost. For this reason it is often considered as a last resort. But is there another solution?

Body-shaping technology has indeed made significant advances in recent times and has come a long way in providing credible solutions to treating not only localised fat, but also effective circumference loss, improving body shape and tone.

AN EFFECTIVE SOLUTION The Clinical PowerShaper is one of the most advanced body-sculpting systems available on the market today and is a market leader in effective treatments for cellulite and improving the appearance of the body. It attributes its success to the remarkable combination and integration of the core functions of Ultrasonic Cavitation, RF, Vacuum and LED Light technologies. These powerful integrated technologies make it possible to improve the accuracy of targeted treatments with assured results for cellulite and body shaping.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

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The Ultrasonic Cavitation applicator, continuously emits sound waves at an intensity that combines acoustic energy with a thermal effect to break down fat cells and prepare them for elimination.

Following the cavitation application, the RF with Vacuum Suction acts by delivering thermal energy and facilitating lymphatic drainage in the treated area. The process ensures that the degraded fat cells and wastes are effectively fluidised and eliminated through the lymphatic system.

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The Clinical PowerShaper delivers the ultrasonic cavitation energy via an 80 mm diameter handpiece operating between 36-38 kHz , multipolar radio frequency at 2 MHz and vacuum suction of 650 mmHg.

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In September 2010 an independent clinical trial was conducted by Dr Abdo Salomao and Dr Andrea de Moraes Lucas on 19 women aged between 25-42. All women received nutritional counselling and had no tanning or bronzing. A standard tape measure was used to evaluate the reduction measured and a calibrated scale to measure their weight.

APPLICATION The applications were weekly, with one session per week lasting one hour. Each session included an initial phase with multipolar RF in the treatment region lasting 25 minutes. This was used at level 3 for RF and level 8 for vacuum. Circular movements were performed on the entire treatment area, while monitoring performance with an infrared thermometer, to maintain the skin temperature between 40-42 degrees Celsius. Immediately after the RF, cavitational ultrasound was performed at level 5. In all cases the continuous mode was used.

During the sessions no pain was reported by any patient; only a sensation of heat. Each candidate received seven treatments.

TRIAL OUTCOME The clinical observation noted that a substantial loss of circumference measurements was reported in 84% of the candidates. Weight loss was reported on all patients. This varied from 1-9 kilos. The improvement in cellulite ranged from 40-80%. The improvement in laxity ranged from 50-80%. After analysis of all clinical and laboratory data related to the safety of the method, it was concluded that the method was safe to the candidates' health. On the basis of the clinical results it was concluded that it was effective both in improving cellulite and skin laxity in the reduction areas.

The Clinical PowerShaper is distributed in Australia by Clinical Skincare, Healthcare & Equipment (CSHE). The Clinical PowerShaper can be ordered or set up according to your needs. There are a total of six different handpieces for the system to provide a total synergistic treatment. However, if you wish to focus on just body fat reduction then you can order your PowerShaper system with just the Ultrasonic Cavitation and Multi-Polar RF with Vacuum handpieces.

In time, as your business booms and grows you can add new services to your current device by just ordering the other optional handpieces – for example the Multi-Polar RF with LED Body Handpiece for treatment of skin laxity and aiding in skin rejuvenation. The Clinical PowerShaper is the one system you want for ALL of your face and body treatments!

Over the past 29 years CSHE has established a strong reputation as leaders in the industry with the introduction of new and innovative salon, clinical equipment and natural skincare products in Australia.

They are committed to their mission to offer exceptional training to increase the knowledge and confidence of salons and medical clinics who wish to excel in their services, by providing remarkable results to satisfied patients and clients through the use of the latest techniques and technological innovations.

For further details contact Call 1800 628 999 www.clinicalequipment.com.au

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APJ 32

Dare to be different Fractional co2 for all skin types

The proven solution for Fractional CO2 Laser skin treatments

Clinical Fractional CO2 Rejuvenation Laser for all skin types

The technology of fractional laser offers optimum solutions for a number of aesthetic and surgical treatments. The fractional technology of the Clinical Fractional CO2™ delivers the CO2 laser energy in a fractional pattern onto the skin, leaving untreated regions around the ablated and coagulated fractional columns.

As the treated areas are much smaller than untreated healthy tissue, the healing time is significantly shortened. Ultimately, the laser provides advanced substantial wrinkle removal, superficial skin tightening and total skin rejuvenation with very little or no downtime, depending on the depth of treatment and energy used.

Main Benefits Absolute Effects Superficial Fractional Ablative Resurfacing [10 – 70 µm]

The fractioned CO2 Ablative Fractional Resurfacing pigmentation issues, [600 – 1,000 µm]

beam targets deep lines and wrinkles, large pores and texture problems as well as scars. It also stimulates the growth of collagen resulting in tightened skin for conditions like skin laxity.

Minimized Downtime Fractional ablative resurfacing clients can return to their daily routine typically within a week. Lighter resurfacing treatments can also be offered with a shorter downtime.

Superficial Fractional Ablative Resurfacing [10 – 70 µm]

Ablative Fractional Resurfacing [600 – 1,000 µm]

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Increased Safety All skin types (1-6) can be treated using stack pulse technology.

Following a fractional ablative procedure, there is minimal risk of scarring, infection or long-term pigmentation changes as the energy offered can be as low as 1mJ or as high as 300mJ. Increased Comfort Patients can opt to have their treatment with a light topical anesthetic for those with a very low pain threshold. Cooling immediately after the treatment reduces any discomfort straight away.

Benefits of the Clinical Fractional CO2 Technology • Accurate beam quality to minimize necrosis zone.

• Simple control of ablation depth by adjusting pulse duration and energy.

• Simple control of fractional spot coverage density.

• Convenient LCD touch panel to change any setting required in a flash.

• Convenient Handpiece buttons for Laser Shot and Spot Size adjustment.

• Spot sizes (3x3mm to 20x20mm) and shapes (Square to Circular) can be changed according to need and to avoid overlapping.

• Light weight handpiece with simple fingertip adjustment permissible during treatment.

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www.clinicalequipment.com.au

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1800 628 999

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Clone Your A-List Clients and Double Your Income Caroline Nelson

Have you ever wished you could have more loyal highticket clients, the type who re-book in advance, and purchase all their skincare and make-up from your business? It doesn't have to be a pipedream, it can become reality. The secret is to clone or replicate your A-list clients. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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This is the time when you can't afford to be complacent. In the current economy, regardless of offering the best services and products, employing the best staff for most salons and spas, takings have eased off to varying degrees. Therefore to continue growing your business may require developing new skills and strategies. Don't just wait until new customers walk in the door, you need instead to actively seek them out. In this article I'm going to share my recommendations on the ways to get more high-ticket clients and in the process build a stronger, more profitable salon or spa business.

But before you can start the process of cloning your A-listers you need to know who they are and what motivates them to spend with your business. What are their likes and needs and, which services and products get their custom? And above all, what's their true monetary value to your business?

This is because, while we value all customers, not all customers have equal value to our business. There is a truism that applies to most businesses and it is that 80 per cent of sales come from the top 20 per cent of customers. Identifying the A-listers who make up this 20 per cent will allow you to focus your marketing on the customers who really drive profitability.

Unfortunately, I have found most businesses spend the vast majority of their marketing dollars trying to attract the 80 per cent who only provide 20 per cent of revenue. This is very obviously the case with the

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APJ 34

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current trend of businesses jumping on to the discounted coupon marketing craze. This type of marketing predominantly attracts the “bargain hunters” who skip from salon to salon for the cheapest deal.

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Did you know that surveys tell us that only about 10% of customers chose a salon or spa based on lower price? It has also been found that apart from being less loyal, these bargain hunters are often the first you lose to the competition and they are also the most likely to complain and the most likely to be a “no-show” for their appointment.

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You will also find that in general your A-listers chose your business based on wanting premium quality, and you will retain their custom because this level of quality has been maintained. Also, A-listers are less likely to complain, are far less likely to switch to your competitor and are the least likely to be affected by economic uncertainty. So nurturing these precious loyal customers means focusing a higher level of customer service and marketing on the ones who drive your business’s profitability, instead of on the lower-profit customers.

IDENTIFY YOUR A-LISTERS With the advent of front-end computer systems almost universally used in the beauty industry it shouldn't be too hard to identify your Alisters, but remember their value to your business won't only be about the money they spend. Their true value will be in their consistency in rescheduling appointments, willingness to upgrade to higher-value services, buy across product lines and pay full price. They are also highly prized advocates spreading positive word-of-mouth.

As previously mentioned, most businesses place a larger focus on attracting new, unqualified customers when in fact they should be treating A-listers as the VIPs they are and focusing marketing activities to attract referrals. New customer acquisition is very costly, whereas developing a marketing strategy aimed at the A-listers can be both economical and profitable. I believe one of the best things a business can do is to identify the most profitable customers in their database and develop strategies that will attract similar people.

When I mention asking loyal customers for referrals I often hear “it's too hard” or “it feels pushy”. Personally, I think these are not valid excuses. Because as the cost of acquiring a new customer through advertising and marketing continues to escalate, securing every possible referral grows in importance.

START A REFER-A-FRIEND PROGRAM It is well known that the best prospective customer is a referred one.

After all they are already pre-sold on your business, and are much less price conscious and more likely to stay loyal. Referred customers are much more secure that they are spending at the right salon or spa because someone they trust is already happily spending at that establishment. And the bonding process has already started even before they enter your doors.

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Make sure you make it easy for people to refer. I recently read a report that mentioned most people would be happy to refer if the following is provided: ! They are happy with the quality of service they receive ! They have developed a rapport with the service providers ! They feel they are receiving value for money ! They are asked to refer ! They are provided with the means to refer i.e. business cards ! They receive a personal thank you for their referral by way of a telephone call or handwritten note or card ! And they are more likely to provide repeated referrals if they receive some type of reward i.e. small gift or gift card.

This doesn’t seem too hard for any business wanting to increase

customer numbers to provide. And it would have to be much more cost effective than spending on advertising and many other marketing methods.

VIP EVENTS While most of us hold a couple of events each year, in general they are designed for any or all clients who wish to attend. Keep doing these, but also consider holding the more exclusive VIP events for your Alisters. In my opinion, high-quality clients need a high-quality event.

The VIP event needs to be very special, with elegant and desirable refreshments and high-value gift bags that will indicate their value to your business. And of course their invitation includes a friend who I'm sure will be very impressed.

I also suggest you invite these affluent clients to become an exclusive member of your VIP Club. With this membership they would receive special perks and always be the first in the know of all new treatments and products and to have the opportunity to try and buy first. So it is my tip to identify who your high-end A-list clients are and then focus 80 per cent of your efforts on them.

And never allow the false belief by yourself or your staff that “the economy is bad and no-one has any money to spend”, because this is just not true. People are still spending and they are not all looking for the cheapest price, but they certainly are looking for quality, results and value. Provide this and your business will grow in any economy.

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© Copyright Caroline Nelson 2011

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry-specific business coach specialising in helping salon and spa owners to operate super-successful businesses. She holds regular seminars and workshops to train business owners how to grow more profitable businesses. For further details please contact Caroline on 0410 600 440 or check her website www.SalonSpaBusiness.com

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APJ 35

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major role in reducing inflammation, which is thought to be the main cause of all skin conditions. The best way to protect skin cells is to support and reinforce the acid mantle, the skin's natural defence against moisture loss and external stressors. Dr. Spiller's hydratain® emulsions are second to none in this respect.

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Q3. Can you explain the two anti-ageing regimes that you would recommend and what is involved in achieving best results?

Paul: From a cosmetic perspective the best approach to

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The benefits of BIOMIMETIC FORMULATIONS OmniDerm is a well-established and highly respected professional skincare supplier of Dr Spiller Biocosmetics and Herbal Aktiv Peeling in Australia. While other companies have come and gone they have continued to experience consistent growth – without the need for aggressive marketing tactics.

For over a decade since their launch in the industry OmniDerm has developed an excellent reputation as a company that is recognised for their integrity and commitment to quality education and training.

Here we catch up with Director of OmniDerm, Paul Fister, to question him about what his products and training bring to the professional beauty industry.

Q1. Tell us a little about your background and why you chose to be involved in the aesthetics industry?

Paul: I studied Business Administration in Switzerland, then completed my education with a Bachelor of Business/Marketing at CIT (now Monash University) in Melbourne. While running a textiles business I helped my wife (now ex) build her beauty business. During a stay in Europe in 1995 we were impressed by Dr. Spiller Biocosmetics so we decided to try them in our business in Melbourne.

Results in the clinic and client responses were so encouraging that we decided to make the products available to beauty professionals in Australia and New Zealand.

Q2. From your experience Paul, when it comes to skincare, which is the best way to encourage the skin's own mechanism for cell renewal and to protect existing cells from damage.

Paul: The answer to this question needs to address two separate ㄰ 㤵 㜵

issues: corrective treatments and skin maintenance. Corrective treatments will encourage rapid cell renewal. Our preferred option is a skin resurfacing treatment based on herbs. It originates in Germany and is called Herbal Aktiv Peeling. This treatment will show significant improvement in the appearance of a wide variety of skin concerns, as documented with numerous before and after photos. We prefer it because it works with the skin's own mechanism of renewal, rather than through the creation of an injury as seen in other corrective treatments.

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Damage to skin cells from environmental and other factors has been identified as a major contributor to premature skin ageing. Ongoing research is showing that effective protection of the skin will play a

preventing premature ageing of the skin is two-fold: corrective treatment designed to reverse the signs of skin damage (which accumulate over time), followed by biomimetic maintenance care that allows the skin to regain its natural balance and appearance.

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Out of all the corrective treatments available I favour a method of skin resurfacing based on dried, crushed herbs. The Herbal Aktiv Peel does not contain any synthetic acids or abrasives. Other treatments create a controlled injury then leave it to nature to heal the damage. By contrast, the Herbal Aktiv Peel contains a number of herbs with scientifically-proven beneficial effects. These herbs release their active constituents into the skin over a period of three days. This is followed by a shedding of the top layers, revealing new skin that is improved in appearance, texture and ability to absorb beneficial ingredients.

By their very nature corrective treatments are aggressive on the skin.

Some level of trauma has to be inflicted to achieve the desired correction. Inflammation and associated processes are natural and necessary side effects. Research in the USA has determined that inflammation can cause chemical reactions that generate free radicals and ultimately destroy collagen and elastin fibres. It follows that inflammatory processes should be calmed as soon as they have achieved their purpose – in other words, as soon as the corrective process is completed. The Herbal Aktiv Peel usually concludes on day five, when the treating therapist removes any remaining dead skin in the clinic. This is followed by an immediate change to supportive, maintenance care.

Corrective treatments will temporarily disrupt the skin's natural protective barrier. This leads to excessive TEWL (trans-epidermal water-loss), accompanied by hyper-sensitivity, irritation and inflammation. The best way to calm the skin and assist in the development of healthy cells is to quickly re-establish the skin's natural protective barrier. The application of Dr. Spiller creams will immediately slow trans-epidermal water-loss. They mimic the skin's natural acid mantle and contain selected active ingredients to calm the skin. This promotes conditions ideally suited for healthy renewal and re-balancing of the skin.

Peptides play a significant role in our creams. Dr. Spiller first used peptides in his Rinazell Cream which he developed in the early 1980's.

Recent trials at the US National Institutes of Health have shown that peptides stimulate the natural rebuilding processes without irritating the skin.

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Q4. Please explain to us what does the term biomimicry or biomimetic mean?

Paul: The terms 'biomimicry' and 'biomimetic' refer to the transfer of biological methods to technical applications – in short, to copy nature with technology. A scientist using a biomimetic approach will imitate a biological process or function. A widely used example is the flippers

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worn by swimmers. Copied from water-dwelling animals they combine faster propulsion through water with significant economy of effort. Over millions of years, nature has perfected the attainment of maximum results with minimum effort. Scientists are studying natural processes in an effort to find simpler and more effective solutions.

The concept of 'biomimicry' was introduced into skincare by Dr. Horst Spiller of Dr. Spiller Biocosmetics. From humble beginnings in 1960, his credo was to observe the skin, learn its secrets and reproduce its functions as closely as possible. The result is his unique 'hydratain®' emulsion system, a highly effective combination of biological processes with ultra-modern technology.

The acid mantle is a combination of sebum and water containing a variety of chemicals such as amino acids, sodium PCA, urea and more. It can be termed the ONLY truly natural skincare cream. Careful study has shown that sebum (the body's natural oil) forms the outside phase, with water as the inside phase. Cholesterol serves as emulsifier.

A truly biomimetic skincare cream will therefore be an emulsion 'water in oil', containing ingredients as found in the natural acid mantle. Some suppliers of skincare are calling their products 'biomimetic' because they have added some ingredients found in the acid mantle. Often these creams are emulsions of the type 'oil in water'; they are therefore formulated opposite to the skin's natural protective layer and cannot in reality be termed 'biomimetic'.

Q5. Do you believe that the most effective products are water-in-oil emulsions or oil-in-water and why?

Paul: The development of Dr. Spiller's hydratain® emulsions resulted in some unexpected and surprising benefits. Scientific research proves what can be observed through daily application of these creams – they hydrate the skin better and for a significantly longer period of time than the more common oil-in-water emulsions. Any chemist will confirm that emulsifiers used in WIO creams are of a significantly lower HLB-value than those used in OIW creams. In fact, emulsifiers used in OIW creams are similar to soaps; their application disrupts the skin's acid mantle, an unwelcome and damaging side-effect.

A further advantage of WIO creams is a lowered need for preservation. Micro-organisms don't have easy access to the water component of a WIO cream. The formulator can therefore use less preservative. Finally, tests conducted by independent sources in Germany have established that WIO emulsions may be better able to deliver active ingredients to the skin than OIW emulsions. In fact, scientific tests showed that the skin will absorb up to 120% more alpha tocopherol (vitamin E) from a WIO cream compared to an OIW cream.

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In reality, any formulator can produce a WIO cream. However, using commonly available formulation technology, such a cream, will contain around 49-50% oil and therefore not be attractive to the consumer. Dr. Spiller developed proprietary technology that allows him to produce WIO creams with a lipid content as low as 19%. This unique emulsion system combines the best features of WIO with the light, pleasant feel of OIW. Dr. Spiller hydratain® emulsions performs demonstrably superior to standard OIW emulsions. They are also pleasant on the skin and therefore highly desirable to the consumer.

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Q6. How important is it to protect the stratum corneum barrier and how do you achieve this with Herbal AktivPeel and Dr. Spiller formulations?

Paul: In the recent past the stratum corneum barrier has been

neglected and often deliberately disrupted. The market is now learning what Dr. Spiller instinctively knew from the beginning – the stratum corneum barrier deserves our respect and needs to be protected. An intact stratum corneum barrier protects our skin from damage resulting from physical pressure, water, chemicals, wind and weather. It also prevents the entry of damaging micro-organisms. A break in the stratum corneum barrier will allow any of these aggressors to disturb the skin. The first consequence of this will be a rapid and significant increase in TEWL. The skin becomes irritated.

This will then lead to inflammation and the creation of free radicals.

The skin appears red; its resistance to damaging micro-organisms is compromised. This process is one of the main causes of skin ageing. It can be observed particularly well on hands that are constantly exposed to water and detergents, such as experienced by hair dressers.

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Powerful cleansers designed to remove oil from the skin should be avoided. They will often strip the acid mantle of the sebum essential for healthy skin. This also applies to products containing acids designed to damage and irritate the skin in order to trigger new growth. Daily application of such products will lead to inflammation with all its unwelcome consequences.

The Herbal Aktiv Peel uses an unusual approach. In the process of treatment the top layers of skin will dry out completely. However, beneath the old skin a new layer of skin is formed, beautifully hydrated and perfectly protected until the old skin peels away. Once the peeling is completed Dr. Spiller's hydratain® emulsions, designed to minimize moisture loss and containing beneficial skin-identical substances, will quickly re-establish the stratum corneum barrier.

Q7. How long has OmniDerm being in operation and what do you believe has attributed to its success as a skincare market leader in Australia?

Paul: We started work with Dr. Spiller products in July 1996. The first twelve months were spent testing and evaluating the product range.

OmniDerm was registered in 1999 with a view to offering our unique solutions to skin professionals in Australia and New Zealand. Our goal, as stated in our Mission Statement, is to become the leading supplier of skincare products, advice and support to Australian skin professionals. We are passionate about all aspects of our business and are on track to achieving this goal. High-quality products delivering outstanding results are only the beginning. Our Business Development Managers are qualified beauty therapists with extensive experience in the operation and management of beauty salons.

Successful businesses have some common features that can be applied to all skincare clinics. We aim to help our clients understand the mechanisms that can turn their business into a success.

We also believe that retailing is a vital for salon profitability. A professional skincare range should be available only from the skin professional, following a proper analysis of the client's skin. Our products are therefore not available for sale on the internet.

We don't subscribe to high pressure selling. Our stockists are taught to educate their clients, leading to a decision by the client to 'buy'. Our trainers demonstrate the ease and natural flow of this process, making it easy for young and inexperienced therapists to copy. We were recently able to celebrate with a young lady in Perth, who from being unable to sell, developed a confident attitude, which resulted in the sale of 186 products in a three-month period.

Omniderm is the Australian Distributor of Herbal® Activ Peel and Dr. Spiller Biocosmetics. For further details phone 1300 301 007.

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bookreview ㄰

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Unveiling the Secrets to Longevity The Longevity Project

– Surprising discoveries for Health and

Long Life from a Landmark Eight-Decade Study

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The issue of longevity is relatively pointless unless it is linked to good health and quality of life. When looking at statistics it is interesting to see that as recent as 1960 the average age of a male in Australia was just 66 and the female, 73 - that is not a really long life.

unhealthy? Now based on the most extensive study on long life ever conducted, other considerations such as personality traits relationships, experiences and career paths are revealed as playing a crutial role in our longevity.

Today, however, the average age expectancy for a male is 82+ and for a female 88+. In fact, you will be pleased to know that Australians rank fourth on the global scale as the longest-living population. What that tells us is that people are living longer, and for this reason the issue of good health and quality of life is something that concerns them.

THE RESULTS OF AN 80-YEAR STUDY

It is true that those who pursue anti-ageing solutions are looking at enhancing their appearance as well as extending their life. Quality of life and longevity is the ultimate that one can expect. Today, the term aesthetics has come to define a great deal more than just skincare.

Consumers are looking for solutions that will not only make them look younger, but also feel better and be healthier. The science of antiageing is indeed the new vogue in wellness. In fact the research is so extensive in this area that in recent years a medical branch known as anti-ageing medicine has emerged and is the fastest-growing specialty area in medicine. Following right beside them significant changes are also affecting the aesthetics industry with new modalities that are aimed at delivering "anti-ageing" results to their clients.

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While many of the principles of good health – a healthy diet, exercise and managing stress – are all beneficial, why are so many people still

The Longevity Project is an amazing book that has taken even the scientific community by surprise. It unveils the result of a comprehensive study of the life of 1500 Californians who were selected in 1921 by a Stanford University psychologist Dr Lewis Terman. Picking up on this study 80 years later two modern-day scientists, Howard Friedman, Ph.D. and Leslie Martin, PhD, followed the lives of the “Terman candidates” and investigated why some of them thrived well into old age, while others fell ill and died prematurely. Tracing the lives of hundreds of individuals they discovered new twists to common health concepts and that many common recommendations are in fact ill advised or simply wrong.

These were identified and replaced with more accurate guidelines to a longer, healthier life.

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For example, the notion that being carefree, happy-go-lucky, taking more time out and avoiding stress will contribute to a longer life was not found to be accurate. Instead, conscientiousness rated as one of the most important attributes that characterise those who live a long life. The qualities of a prudent, persistent, well-organised person, somewhat obsessive and not at all carefree where the predictors of

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longevity. In other words living life with a sense of direction and passion, being hard working, disciplined, having goals and being purpose-driven were the biggest ticket items to longevity. A good diet, staying thin and exercising, of themself, were not enough. They found that those who are healthier tend to be happier, and those who are happier tend to be healthier - but not for the reasons you might first imagine! The lives of the "Terman" participants opened a new window to understanding the intriguing relationship between health and happiness. Their research yielded powerful suggestions for cultivating not only a long life, but also a successful, meaningful and productive life.

Having examined how long each "Terman" participant lived they conducted a series of studies that were never before possible. They used both sophisticated statistical models and a variety of examinations of personalities, social relations, and behaviours. They took people who shared characteristics – those with similar personalities and life experiences such as a history of divorce, or being married or single, to see whether those traits predicted their health over time. Many of their findings took them by surprise. As various characteristics are identified the book also presents tests that quiz and measure those characteristics in the reader. These make the book even more intriguing as you can assess how you measure up against the findings.

While stress is commonly known as the cause of many ailments it was not stress itself that was the problem, but rather how individuals viewed the stressful circumstances. For example a soldier who witnessed atrocities at war and viewed the whole experience as just brutality would live a shorter life than one who viewed the whole exercise as fighting for the freedom of generations to come and for the purpose of eliminating oppressors in the world. The value and purpose of what the soldier placed on why he was fighting for had a direct impact on his health and lifespan.

A BRIEF SUMMARY

6. Catastrophic thinking – always seeing the dark side of things.

Feeling trapped in a negative situation. Having no hope for the future.

Now when looking at the area of genetics things started to become a little complicated. Significant genetic abnormalities sometimes inherited and sometimes due to damage from the environment, caused an important amount of disease and death. However, it was relevant to how threats were minimised and managed. The human body is in a constant state of change and development, and so any single intervention can have varying results. At the extreme ends, the effects are clear – not only is dehydration a problem (physical), but so also is awful boredom (psychological). Getting the correct balance is not a formula, but an issue of individual evaluation.

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STAYING HEALTHY AND LIVING LONGER In a nutshell what did they learn and what are the recommendations?

First, take a deep breath. Second, take a deeper perspective. They also learnt that it is not enough to just focus on your body. It is equally important to focus on families, work and social relations. Social settings and social ties emerged as crucial components of health across the decades. Social relations deeply affect one's habits, daily activities, long-term plans, and reactions to challenges. The family environment, the divorce of one's parents, and the stresses of starting school too early all influenced the "Terman" children's health for years to come and their health in older age was clearly linked to satisfaction with their careers, social networks, marital status and friendships.

From a sophisticated scientific point of view, it makes no sense to think of a human body merely as an engine that needs to be oiled and tuned or as a plant that needs to be watered and fed. At its essence, individual health depends also strongly on social health.

This study also did not find that precisely living out your dreams mattered much to your health. And being perfectly suited to one's job did not always predict a longer life. Instead it was again the

No doubt many of you will purchase and read this book, however, in a brief summary these are the key areas that were consistently and reliably found to be bad for health. These were:

1. Toxins (or poisons) in sufficient amounts. Inhaling cigarette (tobacco) smoke brings a toxic strew of chemicals into direct contact with sensitive internal organs. Ingesting lead (from lead paint or pollutants) or other heavy metals, or pesticides, or polluted air, clearly kills human cells and damages organs.

2. Radioactivity – the second type of direct threat to health is radioactivity. Too much exposure to radiation will make you sick or kill you, whether it is from radon in your basement, fallout from nuclear weapons or nuclear waste, or too many medical X-rays (especially CT scans) in hospitals. Radioactive exposure is cumulative, meaning that risk rises with each exposure.

3. Infections – the third kind of health threat is virulent infectious ㄰ 㤵 㜵

diseases - certain viruses, bacterial infections and fungus infections which start to overwhelm the body's natural defences, especially when it's already weakened.

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4. Trauma – the most obvious direct threat to health involved trauma the car crash that crushed lungs, the gunshots that severed arteries.

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5. Aimless living – living a life without direction, passion or purpose.

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Having no aims or goals in life.

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thoughtful planning, sense of control and accomplishment, and perseverance that helped and that contributed to one's career success.

They also found that taking it easy was not healthy, but rather hard work and ambition towards reaching one's goals would make those individuals more likely to live a longer life.

HERE ARE SOME FURTHER MYTH-BUSTERS: ㈵

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Retire as soon as you can and play more golf to live longer – Myth You will help your children if you encourage them to be more spontaneous and have more fun – Myth Thinking happy thoughts reduces stress and leads to a long life – Myth The good die early and the bad die late – Myth Get married and you will live a longer life – Myth A healthy diet and exercise are the most important things to a long life – Myth If you believe you are loved and cared for you will live a long life – Myth

While feeling loved and appreciated proved to be important to good health, what was even more important was the opportunity to be part of a healthy and positive, socially-interactive environment that allows you to establish meaningful relationships. In fact, to live longer is quite simple. Become a conscientious hard worker, develop a social network, work harder in your career and strive for a more productive life. Perhaps that is why so many Baby Boomers are living long lives?

They are not quick to retire.

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HOW CONSCIENTIOUS ARE YOU? To determine how well each of these statements describe you Score 1 for very inaccurate; 2 for moderately inaccurate; 3 for neither accurate, nor inaccurate; 4 moderately accurate and 5 for very accurate.

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1. I am always prepared 1

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2. I leave my belongings around.

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3. I enjoy planning my work in detail.

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4. I make a mess of things.

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5. I get chores done right away.

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6. I often forget to put things back in their proper places.

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7. I like order.

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8. I avoid my duties.

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10. I am persistent in completing and finishing tasks.

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HOW TO SCORE: Each item scores from 1 to 5, but for items 2,5, 8 and 10 you need to reverse the scores. So, if you said that, "I leave my belongings around" was very inaccurate" (1) in describing you, change your score to its opposite, which is a (5). If you give yourself a 2 "moderately inaccurate", you would change this to a 4, and so on. If you said this was neither accurate nor inaccurate, you would leave the score, as it is - 3. Then simply add up your 10 scores.

WHAT YOUR TOTAL SCORE MEANS: 10-24: This would make you part of a quarter of the population. You are not very conscientious at all - work harder at it.

24-37: You are averagely conscientious.

37-50: Congratulations. Your odds are that you will live a long life.

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The Longevity Project by Howard S. Friedman and Leslie R. Martin, is published by Scribe Publications and costs $32.95. Attend the APAN NEW HORIZON'S EXPO & SEMINAR in Canberra on Sunday 25th September and you may qualify for a FREE copy.

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APJ 40

on ht n e e g As s Toni y a d To

BEFORE TREATMENT

AFTER TREATMENT

with

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Wrinkles Sun Damage Scarring Pigmentation Acne/Pimples Enlarged Pores Blackheads/Milia Stretch Marks

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skinscience ㄰

any treatment. The jury is still out on understanding pathogenesis of melasma, which does make it difficult to treat. You need to identify where the pigment is located, is it superficial or deep or is it both.

Usually, if the lesion is brown with a defined border it is superficial, if it is dark brown to grey-blue with indistinct borders then it is most likely dermal. Identifying the level of pathology will help determine the right laser or other lightening treatments that you use.

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LASER RECOMMENDATIONS

Combining lasers with topical whitening agents will help manage this complicated condition. In the past the use of some lasers and IPL on Asian skin caused other complications such as post inflammatory pigmentation. Today low dose 1064 nm Q-switched Nd:YAG lasers are considered the safest and the most effective modality for treating melasma.

Dr. Huh, who is a clinical associate professor in the Department of Dermatology at Seoul National University Bundang Hospital explained, “We believe that the Q-Switched Nd:YAG laser selectively targets melanosomes to cause sub-lethal injury and improve melasma. Unlike older lasers that used higher doses, the lower dose in this laser protects the upper dermal vascular plexus from cellular destruction.

Furthermore, sub-threshold dermal injury stimulates collagen regeneration, which leads to brighter and tighter skin after treatment.”

Treating Pigmentation in Asian Skin

by Gay Wardle As Australia is becoming more and more multicultural, skin therapists are confronted with the necessity to understand the specific requirements of addressing different skin conditions from a variety of different ethnic backgrounds when determining treatment options. In this article Gay Wardle presents some interesting information on treating Asian skin, particularly with photo-modalities.

I recently attended the IMCAS (International Master Course on Ageing Skin) in Singapore. The conference was held over three amazing days, and one of the topics covered was pigmentation in Asian skins. This was a little close to my heart as I am continually being asked how do we approach these skin types with safe treatments that work. I discussed this topic with several doctors at the conference and I would like to share with our Australian therapists some of the valuable information I gained.

ASIAN SKIN AND PIGMENATION Asian cultures tend to be particularly vulnerable to pigmentary disorders, due to photo-damage even though they have always coveted for fairer skin. Physicians and aesthetic therapists alike have utilised both lasers and varying photo-modalities to treat pigmented lesions, however careful selection of the right parameters is critical to ensuring success with the treatments. These should be supported with new topical serums that are increasingly being developed to address pigmented lesions and lighten skins.

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Photo-damage in Asians presents more commonly as pigmentary changes, rather than wrinkles, which could be attributed to the higher epidermal melanin content in these skin types. Observation of photoageing in Asian skins shows as increased pigmentation, whereas in Caucasian skins photo-ageing from ultraviolet damage manifests itself through conditions such as telangiectasia and wrinkles.

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In addition to this, Asians are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which creates huge pigmentary disorders such as melasma, freckles, nevus and lentigines among Asians. ㈵

Melasma is one of the largest problems with Asians, so it is absolutely vital that the level of pathology is investigated and identified before

Another opinion for treatment of this condition came from Dermatologist Yuanhong Li who said, “In my experience, a combination of low dose Q-switched 1064 nm Nd:YAG and intense pulsed light achieves very good results with superficial melasma.

Weekly treatments with this laser for eight weeks then treatment with IPL for two weeks will render good results. After one month reassess to decide whether an additional two sessions of Nd:YAG treatments are needed. This protocol helps in decreasing the chances of recurrence after treatment is finalised.”

Dr. Li also stated that the use of IPL is more effective for freckles, where as Er:YAG lasers are effective for removing benign nevi and Nd:YAG are the first line of treatment for solar lentigines.

As previously mentioned, the most bothersome side effect with laser and photo-based treatments is post inflammatory hyper-pigmentation that is considered a patho-physiological response to cutaneous injury.

As Asian skins are rich in melanin, which is very sensitive to light, their skin becomes easily inflamed and is at a high risk for postinflammatory hyper-pigmentation.

POST TREATMENT RECOMMENDATIONS Special care after treatment is also critical for the prevention of postinflammatory hyper-pigmentation (PIH) after treatment. Before and after treatment the use of bleaching agents was also recommended by all Dermatologists and Doctors for reducing the incidence of postinflammatory hyper-pigmentation. ㄰

Follow-up is also crucial to monitor and prevent PIH. If the skin is excessively red this would indicate excessive inflammation and thus, increased chances of PIH, also strict avoidance of sun exposure is crucial to prevent PIH. Client behaviour has changed in recent years. They do not tolerate complications, they are more demanding and aggressive if they do not get the results they want. Complete and thorough skin consultations will avoid complications and disappointments that clients have with us. Never leave anything to chance.

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APJ 42

Advance your knowledge and education to a higher level.

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Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS PROGRAM in 2011 to equip and empower you to make the transition with greater confidence into the realm of advanced treatment protocols for greater treatment outcomes.

Gay Wardle is without question today's leading and most influential educator in Australia. Winner of over 12 industry and business awards she has a strong understanding of the aesthetics industry and the elements that are necessary for a successful salon or aesthetic practice.

Constantly investing in her own education and knowledge, she is not only passionate about training but simultaneously is undertaking a Bachelor's qualification with Victoria University.

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THE FACE AND BODY CONNECTION Why Synergistic Treatments Work

By Tess Walls Being in the industry for the past 18 years I have seen many trends come and go, however, there is one thing that seems to go unchanged and that is the therapist’s ability to analyse and focus on treatments that only treat skin concerns from the neck up.

I do understand facial treatments are an important part of our business, however, it is very important to think of the body as a whole so that you can ensure you achieve a “total body solution”, and in turn the best result for the client.

Some examples of how we can incorporate body treatments when treating skin conditions are as follows: ㄰

Let’s look at the case of acne. There are so many causes of this problematic skin condition, some of which include hormonal imbalances, poor diet, environmental, incorrect skincare product and toxicity of the body.

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If I was treating acne I would most certainly use products on the face to reduce the keratinisation, balance oil secretion, control harmful bacteria and in turn reduce break-outs. However, I would combine the facial treatments and homecare products with the following body treatments to rebalance the body and fight the cause of the acne.

My body treatment recommendations would consist of the following: Acupuncture: I have seen some great results with acne, sensitivity (especially when caused by stomach upsets or food allergies) and hormonal break-outs when combining my treatments with acupuncture. If you do not currently have a referral program in place with a professional acupuncture clinic, I would highly recommend that you seek one out and arrange a meeting with them to see if they would be interested in creating a referral program between your business and theirs.

Seaweed Bath Treatments: Seaweed baths can either be Now, let's look at how many of the above would just affect the skin from the neck up. After careful consideration of the five causes above, in my opinion there would only be one that we could control by only treating the acne from the neck up, and that would be incorrect product use. This really highlights why we need to treat the body as a whole, as even though we are treating the skin on the face the symptoms that we can see (ie: break-outs, sensitivity, clogging, keratinisation and excess oil) are being produced because of imbalances in the body.

recommended as a homecare treatment to be used 1-2 times per week or as an in clinic/spa treatment in combination with a lymphatic program in a hydro-bath. The treatment will assist in stimulating lymphatic flow and reducing toxic waste build-up. Consider the body's lymphatic system as a large river with lots of streams branching off it. This makes it easier to understand that sometimes those smaller rivers get a build-up of debris, similar to twigs and bark that would occasionally build up behind a fallen tree in a river. If you can explain

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to your client that the seaweed bath and other detoxifying treatment listed below will re-mineralise their body, increase lymph and blood circulation and in turn flush debris towards the lymphatic nodules for elimination, this will help them appreciate the value of these treatments. If we can assist the body to do this it will release some of the toxic overload and then hopefully it will start eliminating waste more efficiently of its own accord. This treatment is also beneficial in clients who are constantly under stress and their skin is holding hard “blind” lesions underneath the skin.

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Lymphatic Drainage Massage: I always like to use lymphatic

drainage massage in conjunction with algae or mineral mud wraps.

This will assist in increasing the lymphatic flow and reducing the body waste similar to the seaweed bath listed above. These treatments are also fantastic for clients that carry a lot of fluid or experience tired, heavy legs.

Aromatherapy Massage or Baths: Aromatherapy is an extremely powerful tool for treating all skin and body conditions. For example, our products have five pre-blended aromatherapy formulas that can treat various skin and body conditions. “Svelt” would be an excellent choice for treating acne, cellulite or for generally body detoxification. It contains a very good-quality blend of Cedarwood, Juniper and Lavender oils to support the drainage of wastes.

As you can see there are many body treatments that we can use to balance the body and assist us in achieving a faster and longer-lasting result with acne and many other skin conditions.

RECOMMENDATIONS I encourage all businesses to determine the five most common skin conditions that they are treating. Then compile a list of complementary body treatments to assist in faster and improved results. This would make a great topic for a staff discussion. Ask them to put forward their individual recommendations of what body treatments they believe would benefit their clients and complement their skin conditions.

Once you have determined your body treatments, design appropriate skin-therapy packages that include a couple of body treatments.

These will not only offer your clients greater benefits and results, but will also give your clients the opportunity of experience the bliss of a specific body treatment that is designed exclusively for them and their needs.

Regardless of how you design your complementary body treatments, please remember that to get exceptional results, great skin treatments should not stop at the base of the neck.

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Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 17 years’ experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia ad has a passion for helping others build their business step-by-step. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves imparting her knowledge to others. She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success. She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including the Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems.

If you believe that Tess can help you grow your business or to find out more about Germaine de Capuccini's organic range phone 1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876.

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New beauty application with iPhone and Android platforms will help consumers purchase cosmetic products Procter and Gamble has joined big players L'Oreal and Unilever in introducing an application for the iPhone and Android platforms in the form of a virtual makeover tool.

P&G Beauty & Grooming launched My Beauty Adviser, a new, free application for the mobile platforms, with its Clairol, CoverGirl, Olay and Pantene brands joining forces to create a multi-faceted beauty application that provides consumers with an exclusive virtual beauty experience.

"Our customers continue to tell us they need guidance to decide which beauty products to use and how to use them to get the look that they want," says Kevin Hochman, marketing director for Olay, Secret and Venus. "That's why we created My Beauty Adviser to help women find the best answers in a quick and fun way while on-the-go. We wanted to provide our customer with a free, interactive platform to help her make confident decisions about her beauty purchases and believe My Beauty Adviser accomplishes that goal."

The new app was developed by digital ideas agency Densebrain, and allows users to explore products, complete a consultation or browse a free magazine. "My Beauty Advisor is a departure from the classic branded content feed; it provides truly relevant information to consumers in an easy to consume way that really connects with their needs," says Jonathan Glanz, founder and technical director for Densebrain.

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VARIOUS FEATURES A browsing feature allows users to discover and learn about products, read and write reviews, and establish their ideal regimen among the cosmetic, skin and hair care categories. Voice and barcode scanning uses advanced technology for instant access to products and content within the application. Users can also utilise the barcode scanner while shopping in retail aisles to instantly access product reviews and related articles.

The Ohio-based firm also claims the app acts as a personal, handheld consultant that tailors a beauty recommendation to meet an individual's needs. It states that users can complete consultations by answering questions about their skin and hair type, concerns and desired results. Once the consultation is complete, results reveal customised recommendations for products. The app also comes with a beauty magazine that users can browse through and select any particular styles they take a liking to.

Do you have to pay the flood levy?

The government is introducing a temporary flood and cyclone reconstruction levy (flood levy) this year to help communities recover from recent natural disasters. The flood levy only applies to taxable income earnt from 1 July, 2011 to 30 June, 2012.

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Unless you are exempt, if you have a taxable income of more than $50,000 in the 2011-12 income year you will have to pay the flood levy. You do not have to do anything if you are an employee as the flood levy will automatically be deducted from your salary by your employer.

If you have a taxable income of $50,000 or less you will not have to pay the levy. Anyone who was eligible for an Australian Government Disaster Recovery Payment or has been affected by a natural disaster that happened during the 2010-11 financial year may also be exempt from paying the levy.

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If you are exempt you will need to complete the flood levy exemption declaration form (NAT 73797) and give it to your employer.

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You will also need to confirm your exemption when lodging your 2012 income tax return.

For more information about the form, additional exemptions and how they work, or to obtain a copy of the form, go to www.ato.gov.au/floodlevy or phone 13 28 61.

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traditional retailers when they see so many products up to 50 per cent cheaper online. “Our survey asked people by how much they think it is fair for retailers to mark up their prices to make a profit. They considered a mark-up of around 35 per cent to be fair,” he said.

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“This shows just how much Australian consumers underestimate the cost of the traditional retail process, which takes into account shipping, warehousing, displaying, advertising, sales staff and rent.”

“Given the huge disparity between peoples perceptions of what is a fair mark-up and what they are being charged in bricks and mortar shops, it's not surprising that they are choosing clicks over bricks.”

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Other reasons why customers are shopping online is because they want to compare products and prices, while one in two respondents say they do so to save time. Yet, one in two respondents also felt that online retail is hurting Australian jobs. “The fact is, traditional retail is a very expensive way of delivering products to customers, and just as digital cameras have decimated photo development labs, so too will online retail transform the way Australians shop,” Denniss said.

High mark-ups drive consumers online One of the key factors that are driving Australian consumers to shop online is that it saves them money, a study from The Australia Institute reveals. In fact, the rise of online retail survey found that 85 per cent of respondents who shop online do so because they save money. But it was also revealed that Australian retailers on average are marking-up the prices of items such as clothes and shoes by 142 per cent, skincare and make-up by up to 100 per cent and around 40 per cent for items like DVDs and music to remain competitive.

Richard Denniss, Australia Institute's executive director, said Australian consumers do not feel they are getting a fair deal from

To overcome this dilemma salons are finding that by including products within a treatment/product package mix, consumers see the value and the saving and are more comfortable to purchase products in this manner. It's also all about marketing – rather than discount their services, align the savings to the products included in the package rather than to the treatments. Here is an example – Advanced Rejuvenation treatment valued at $220 each, but if you purchase a treatment pack of 10 for $2,200 you will also receive $300 worth of clinically proven advanced anti-ageing treatment products FREE OF CHARGE. Client can't afford it? Phone APAN for the Interest-Free loans to allow clients to take up your offer and have half a year to pay it off without any interest charges.

WANT TO BE IN BUSINESS – THERE IS STILL HOPE Grants & assistance Grants and other funding programs are available from the Australian, State and Territory governments, and in some cases from local councils. Generally there are few grants available for starting a business, and those that are available are competitive or are only available for specific circumstances. However, there are grants and other assistance available for business activities such as expanding your business, research and development, innovation and exporting.

You may also find it useful to contact an advisory service for information on what support is available for your business.

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If you are experiencing difficulties in running your business, whether it be for personal or financial reasons, it can help to contact a counselling service.

To help you locate grants and assistance relevant to your business, the government has created a search tool called Grants & Assistance Finder. You can find this tool at: www.business.gov.au/GrantFinder/GrantFinder.aspx

Using Grants & Assistance Finder You can search for grants and assistance programs available within your State or Territory, in addition to those provided by the Australian Government.

Please be aware that due to the large volume of data, Grants & Assistance Finder may take a few moments to load.

At the same website you can also read more about:

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Grants & Assistance Finder www.business.gov.au Advice & support Personal counselling services

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WEBSITE TO HELP BUSINESSES START THEIR OWN FREE WEBSITE http://www.gettingbusinessonline.com.au/?utm_source=google&utm_ medium=cpc&utm_campaign=au-gdn-ctxt-gen

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BEAUTY or AESTHETICS PROFESSIONALS Get involved in the FACEBOOK Discussion

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Our intention is to invigorate interest and appreciation with consumers for our services and profile our profession as a forward-thinking industry that is constantly updating its services to meet with the changing consumer needs. We will then present the industry what the findings reveal.

While APAN is very involved with statistical research on trends and new developments, this initiative will be totally instigated by our organisation. Whatever we do we have our members and the industry at heart so we would like you to contributed and be part of our organisation's agenda through our social media platform.

One area that we would like to research is how you define who you are and what you do. The aesthetics industry is very broad and offers qualifications on so many different levels. Throughout the industry you will find terms that describe how we view our professional identify with terms ranging from * Beautician * Beauty Therapist * Aestheticians * Dermal Clinician * Paramedical Aesthetician * Clinical Aesthetician or * Skin and Spa Therapist. Here are some questions we would like you to answer: 1. What do you think about the above definitions?

2. What are your thoughts about whether we need all these definitions, or should we as an industry advocate the use of some and not others?

3. What qualifications should reflect which definition?

4. If you were attending a barbecue and a total stranger asked you what was your profession and what you did how would you answer them? Your answer will need to be brief, but easy to understand. Is this a challenge? ㄰

As an industry these are important questions? Perhaps we need to revisit these options and determine what they mean and how we would like consumers to identify us.

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We have started a discussion on our FACEBOOK. Go to http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page and click on the discussion page to let us know your thoughts and check out what others are saying. We would love to hear your thoughts on this matter so please join us. Alternatively, if you are not on Facebook you can email us at info@apanetwork.com. Please let us know.

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APAN in its advocacy role in supporting the aesthetics industry will be launching a very exciting social media campaign aimed at engaging the public's view of our industry. We will question such as: ! What they think of us as professionals ! What they like ! What they don't like ! Their expectations ! What new services they would like us to introduce

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Revisiting our definitions as

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Cosmetic & Toiletries Market Analysis reports on rising sales The Cosmetics & Toiletries market in the U.S. witnessed a healthy recovery in the year 2010 after experiencing a slowdown during the previous years. The recovery is a positive sign for marketers and leading brands as they are launching innovative products and services focused on specific consumer segments. The market grew by around 2.8% in 2010, crossing $US36 billion over the previous year. Consumer remained the king during 2010 as they preferred multifunctional products with competitive pricing. It is projected that the return in confidence level will boost the cosmetics and toiletries sales in the country in future.

Further, with the economy reshaping to the pre-crisis level after the downturn, manufacturers and distributors of professional skincare are exerting a tremendous amount of time as well as money to lure customers back for expensive skin treatments and product purchases. These efforts are visible through heightened levels of product activity featuring advanced research and development formulae, as well as more extensive promotional support.

Natural and organic products are also gaining popularity in the U.S. with similar growth in Australia. The organic and natural personal care sector has observed a higher growth rate compared to the total market for personal care products. Additionally, new products with innovative formulations are driving market growth. In the current scenario, marketers are pressing their R&D efforts to develop greener products to satisfy consumer demand, with sustainability becoming the prime focus for them. Locally made products or sourced ingredients are also gaining popularity.

In addition to the above, the anti-ageing skincare industry has been running at a high-neck speed since 2006. Alongside the naturals and organic segment, anti-ageing skin care products have consistently provided strong growth; even during the past two years when sales have been hit by economic hardships and a shrinking consumer spend.

According to several reports there is large room for future growth.

As per this study, the total US market for cosmetics and toiletries is projected to reach around $US 42 billion by the end of 2015. This is a growth rate of seven per cent which Australia is predicted to at least match. Maximum of the growth will be accounted for by the natural beauty products and anti-ageing products as consumers are becoming more aware of natural ingredients and their benefits.

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Appealing to the five senses Visual communication is the most common method retailers use to engage with customers, and the other four senses of sound, touch, smell and taste are often overlooked. However, with growing product competition the need to engage your clients with your products is becoming increasingly critical to converting product displays into sales.

Danielle Barclay, head of Retail Engine, which is part of CPM Australia, said retailers should be using the physical retail environment to appeal to all five senses to enhance a customer's instore experience, particularly at a time where many retailers are losing customers to online retailing.

“Consumers are far more demanding in wanting a personalised experience, and their expectations are far higher in a retail space. In the online space you've got so much flexibility to control that environment, but it's a little bit harder in a retail space. I think there's still a place for hands-on interaction. We just have to be a little more creative in terms of engaging people within a retail environment,” she said.

“I definitely think retailers shouldn't be afraid. The fact is the customer can do as much research as they want and ultimately buy certain products online, but when they buy products online it's not for an experience, but for the price, and there's a huge number that are wanting to still engage with brands.”

Barclay, who recently attended International CES in Las Vegas and Screenmedia Expo in London, found that the US market was looking towards converging social media, gesture, smart phones and tablets into one device. On the other hand, the UK market focused great attention on using 3D screens without the need to wear glasses as ways to engage with customers in-store. In comparison to this, she said that Australian retail was still in its

infancy in creating and adopting alternative methods to connect with customers for three reasons: ! The retailing business is still very traditional and finds it difficult to steer away from familiar methods.

However, times are changing and Australia will soon catch up with world trends. ! Marketers often look towards using mass mediums to appeal to customers rather than taking advantage of the retail space ! Cost of implementing new tools.

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Salons and clinics need to take this advice on board and consider modernising their retail space to help drive sales figures. Enticing client engagement through sampling that utilises their five senses in a proven and essential strategy is worth perfecting to your business's advantage.

Australian businesses rake in $143 billion worth of Internet orders

Mini Pos specialises in mobile devices and software!

Internet orders received by Australian businesses jumped 15 per cent in 2009-10, worth just under $143 billion, new Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS) figures show.

Mini Pos offer a range of mobile devices from basic PDA systems to rugged models for factories and warehouse. Casio, Datalogic, Denso, Motorola and M3 offer features such as Barcode Scanning, RFID, Wireless Network, Camera, GPS and Phone.

Large businesses are the most likely to be found online; 94 per cent had a web presence, while companies employing up to four people were least likely, with only one-third found on the Internet.

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While the movement is slow, there are examples of some brands that are looking beyond using visual appeal. For instance, CPM Group and Kimberly-Clark Australia have teamed up to create an in-store experience for Kleenex Viva. They have done this by placing sampling units that integrate the technology of visual, scent and sound in some Australian supermarkets. “Research shows consumers are noticing the difference, and I think in terms of something so traditional demonstrations are fantastic because they're hands-on and provide faceto-face interaction, and this is something different to get that competitive edge.”

The retail industry had the fifth-highest amount of orders, with wholesale trade and manufacturing businesses receiving the most at 40 per cent.

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Close to half of Australian businesses reported plans to innovate or develop new or improved goods, services and methods.

The ABS data reveals 74 per cent of large businesses were more likely to innovate, compared to 36 per cent of small businesses.

Software is available for Stocktaking, Price Checking, Ordering, Goods In/Out, Mobile Sales, Manufacturing and much more. And if you are using an accounting program like Myob Retail Manager, Premier or QuickBooks, then their Import program will quickly update your database.

For mobile salespeople who need to send orders back to their office, their software will also run on Smart Phones such as HTC (available at your local Phone Shop for about $45 per month on a plan). These can also connect to Bluetooth Barcode scanners and mobile receipt printers.

Mini Pos can tailor a solution to suit your specific needs.

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For more info visit Mini Pos web site: www.minipos.com.au or email: sales@minipos.com.au or phone Darren on 0413 242 160.

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Dr Atia's Fat-Blasting Hot Favourite – Instant, visible, guaranteed results!

Dr Aita's new Skin O2 Firmage Ultra Cavitation targets and melts away fat in those stubborn areas without the need for down time or surgery! Firmage Ultra utilises Ultrasound Cavitation technology combined with the new electromagnetic RF and 650nm photo-dynamic therapy treatment to instantly liquefy fat, smooth and firm skin without the need for excess heat or discomfort!

Skin O2 Clinical Aesthetician and Beauty business owner Sue Row explains: “We usually see on average a 2cm-4cm loss per treatment. However, with my patient today we got an amazing 6cm loss after one treatment. Yes, this definitely is a must-have treatment for every beauty clinic it is so rewarding to be able to get results like that for your customers, and you know they will be telling all their friends about it too!”

Dr Atia was featured on Today Tonight for his world-first studies in cellulite and fat spot reduction. He has his own super body nutritional and skincare range, runs courses on understanding fat and cellulite for doctors and aestheticians, as well as enjoying his true passion of treating every day body-conscious patients from mums to top models at his cosmetic surgery clinics on the Gold Coast.

"This is the ultimate - at last we can do non-surgical lipo and fat spot reduction without risk, or down-time to the patient.

It is not an alternative to weight loss but it is perfect for spot reduction and targeting those stubborn fat areas on the stomach, thighs, buttocks or arms. On average we see 2-4cm instant loss each treatment - so patients are very happy. They can just return to work straight after the treatment and no-one knows!" Dr Atia confirms.

WHAT ARE THE EXTRA BENEFITS WITH THE ULTRA?

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“We worked with our team of engineers to create an extra handpiece with additional benefits! After starting with the smart cavitation ultrasound head, the second part of the treatment is carried out by utilising the new handpiece, which is electromagnetic RF technology combined with RED LED. This additionally assists the detoxification and elimination process without the need for manual lymphatic drainage techniques that some other older equipment required you to do! The second new electromagnetic non-heat RF and LED handpiece helps to achieve a further reduction in inflammation and the transdermal infusion of the hot body gel,

that contains natural ingredients to help promote an increase in the micro-circulation for faster results! This process assists to smooth the skin from within by helping aid the body's natural detoxification of waste.”

Dr Atia's aim was to achieve a super body, fast, but without any down time and discomfort and We are satisfied we have definitely achieved that for our clients and patients. The electromagnetic RF helps to send regenerative frequency energy signals to the body's cells to naturally encourage regeneration to help firm and tone the skin, without applying heat damage to the skin experienced in traditional RF which can have adverse effects and cellular degradation.

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Managing Director Alison Atia comments “What I like most about Dr Atia's Ultra Cavitation is that it has been cleverly designed to be safer to use on patients and easier for the operator to use. Firmage Ultra has smart energy technology so it captures and delivers each burst of energy more efficiently and effectively, so that it doesn't need the higher energy output to get results that other larger and older systems require. The Firmage Ultra is effective enough to get perfect results without having too high a risk of utilising a higher output. Patients love it because it delivers more comfortable treatments and achieves excellent results without the risk, discomfort or unnecessary potentially adverse effects."

"The Firmage Ultra is a cute and very simple system to operate so new staff can be trained easily, unlike the older style larger cavitation machines that we first saw come on to the market. The older systems took up whole treatment rooms and were very technical and a lot more complicated to use so treatment results would really vary depending on the skill of the operator! One of Dr Atia's pet hates with a lot of equipment was the huge capital outlay as well as the other hidden ongoing and maintenance costs.

The design protocol with his new Firmage Ultra has been very clever in ensuring we could provide our clinics an affordable, smarter, more compact cavitation that could help avoid any expensive ongoing maintenance and running costs and allow for delivery of fast, instant results without any hassle!

It is for these reasons this is the hot favourite technology that is rapidly appearing in clinics before this summer is in!”

But Alison warns, “Don't be fooled, demand to see the results for yourself as not all cavitation systems are designed utilising smart technology!”

Instantly melting away fat in hard to move areas each and every treatment, now who wouldn't want that? Clinic owners contact sales@skino2.com.au for your trial treatment and discover the secret of Dr Atia's cute, smart, effective and affordable technology!

Ph: 07 5593 4488 Web:www.skino2.com.au

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need for surgery!

The treatments are surprisingly pleasurable and the results are excellent for both fat reduction and cellulite!

Combined with Dr Atia’s Super Body products and these new treatments, burning fat has never been so hot!

Derma Fill Electroporation

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Elegance

in High Demand

When times are tough luxury still sells. This is because the modern-day client is becoming more discerning and fastidious. As one salon is finding out, it isn't so much that client can't afford their services, it is now more a case of greater scrutiny on where money is invested. And as they discovered, quality services attract quality clients.

Donald Trump recently said, “Passion for what I do is the key to my success. I have never seen a successful person who is not passionate about what they do. With passion quitting is never an option.”

Cherie Tippett is the owner of Simply Elegant, a skin-therapy salon in Strathpine, Queensland. While several salons around her have closed their doors she is continuing to thrive and prosper. Highly committed to achieving excellent services and unrivalled results, her business continues to enjoy a high level of success and this is indeed her expectation. Longevity in business can teach you many things, and one of them is how to survive even during difficult times. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Cherie recently joined APAN as a member and we approached her to share the secrets to her success. Having set her focus beyond sustainability to continued growth, Cherie has recently embarked on one of Caroline Nelson's astute business-coaching programs to determine how to improve what she has already in place. Indeed, Cherie has the hallmark of an achiever – determination and a pursuit for continued excellent in all facets of her business.

Q1. Cherie, tell us about your journey that led you to

establish Simply Elegant?

Cherie: In 1995 I completed my Diploma in Beauty Therapy and worked in a salon for several years gaining experience in every facet of salon operations and business. I then decided to branch out on my own and took a room within a hairdressing salon where I worked for approximately three years. Then an opportunity came along of a salon nearby that was established for 12 years. Simply Elegant, while being well established, had substantial potential to grow even more. I purchased the salon and brought my clients over. Growth continued and soon we took on further premises, which we integrated to our existing premises. This extension allowed us to create a complete retail shop, a make-up station, and a relaxation room, lockers and change room. These changes were well worth the investment as they enhanced the client experience of our ever-growing client base.

Contrary to what you may think we are not a spa, but strictly specialising in skin therapy. I am pleased to say that this year we celebrated our 21st birthday as a salon.

Q2. What are the key priorities that express your culture in the business?

Cherie: Our focus is to deliver an extremely high level of

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professional service that incorporates the latest technology and delivers exceptional results that our clients have come to expect from us. Our culture is a formal one, where etiquette is a high priority and the trademark of our culture. All staff members abide by set protocols of conduct from the welcoming greeting to the farewell. Our policies and procedures systematically ensure that each client can expect to receive the service and results they are looking for as well as a pleasurable experience. These strategies ensure that the client can count on a uniform standard of treatment and experience regardless as to which therapist they may have for their various visits.

Q3. What services and treatments do you provide and what would you consider to be your competitive advantage in the region?

Cherie: While we provide all the basic services such as waxing, tinting and mak-eup, our main focus and reputation is built around our skin-rejuvenation treatments. We perform IPL treatments, microdermabrasion as well as a series of AHA peels, and with the right combination of treatments we get great results, so much so that much of our business comes from referrals. Clients now have high expectations from their skin-rejuvenation treatments. We therefore combine modalities to achieve the best possible outcome for each client.

Q4. What advice would you give salon owners who wish to find and keep good staff?

Cherie: After considering qualifications, one of the key characteristics we look for is a positive attitude. We then look for a level of flexibility and a willingness to adapt to our methods. Once we train them to our methods it is important to continue to keep them

motivated and enthusiastic. To achieve this we are constantly introducing them to new and exciting training programs, and we also offer bonuses to reward them in meeting their sales targets. We have introduced motivational mornings. These are brief meetings that are full of fun and where we identify the goals we will be focussing on for that particular day.

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Q5. What are the most exciting changes that you have implemented in your business?

Cherie: I would have to say that I love our Quantum IPL machine,

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which we purchased from Medtel. It has opened up a whole new scope of services that have been very profitable. We purchased the Quantum in 2003, but it was the best investment. We can achieve great results in just one to three treatments of photo-rejuvenation, sun damage and pigmentation. However, my most exciting development has been the introduction of package deals as they offer a more secure income and of course better results for the client. The skin becomes clearer and more radiant. We even have had great results with rosacea.

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Q6. How do you view the current economic climate and what mechanisms have you put in place to ensure that your business continues to grow and prosper?

Cherie: We definitely have not engaged with the current web-based discounted deals that are all the craze at the moment. Frankly, I find them scary and don't believe they suit us or are they a necessary strategy to help our business grow – we are mainly growing through referrals. These days it is critical to maintain a high level of results – an average facial that does not deliver the results the client has come to expect is no longer an option. We offer amazing packages that our clients love and these have been the best investment for our business.

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I love packages as they not only secure an income for the business, but also ensure that the client is committed to regular treatments that result in enhanced treatment outcomes, which they really appreciate.

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Another area that has to meet a very high standard is the issue of customer service. Consumers are prepared to pay for excellence, but not for anything less. With this focus we believe that our progress will thrive, while others around us may be leaving the industry.

Q7. How do you view on-going education and what aspects of training do you wish to continue to grow your knowledge in?

Cherie: The staff undergo regular training sessions, both in improving in their treatment and in their product knowledge. It is important to keep the girls well trained and motivated. By boosting their confidence they are better able to also meet the sales target. We also attend as many seminars as we can to stay in touch with progress.

Q8. What made you join APAN? Cherie: As industry professionals it is very important that we stay informed with regulatory issues and industry standards. APAN can provide us with the very best service and support in this regard.

Simply Elegant skincare centre is located in unit 3-4/326 Gympie Rd, Strathpine, Queensland, 4500.

They can be contacted on 07 3881 3102.

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APJ 54

AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN

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Edible beauty: The new frontier in skin health Natural Compatibles reaches 23rd in the top Edible beauty is the next big thing for the beauty industry with the fundraisers for the World's Greatest Shave Committed to supporting community events, Enhance Natural Compatibles was quick to respond to a fundraising event in this year's World's Greatest Shave in March. Through their support, involvement and contribution in this event they were able to raise over $10,000 for the Leukaemia Foundation, bringing them in at 23rd place as one of the top fundraisers.

At a special reception Louise Mucha, National Educator for Natural Compatibles was presented with a Thank You Trophy by Stephanie Hechenberger, Managing Director for the Leukaemia Foundation, Victoria.

introduction of nuticosmetics including high anti-oxidant nutritional drinks, food bars and other consumable product that have been specifically formulated to boost skin health and skin vitality.

Relating to the big rise of this niche category, the 2nd Beauty from Within 2010 Conference held in Paris on 27th October, 2010 was a great success.

The event flagged the key trends in the category, including the fact that Asia is still the undisputed leader for consumers and ingredient sourcing in nutricosmetics, while Europe, the US and Australia are catching up and keen to capitalise on the beauty from within concept.

The European market has been challenged by many stumbling blocks, including baffling health-claim rejections and a very slow reaction from consumers to understand and buy the products.

Edible beauty has blockbuster potential, but challenges remain in building the science and making claims in a highly complex legal landscape. Beauty from Within 2010 looked at the science behind the ingredients and explored how to bring successful products to a highly competitive market. It also looked at the challenges behind the education and marketing of nutricosmetics to consumers, as well as covering scientific validation, new product forms and categories and exploring how to overcome the current regulation confusion.

COSMETIC TATTOO INTERNATIONAL CELEBRITY DUO WORKSHOP ㄰ 㤵 㜵

It all started on Monday, 4th July at the Gold Coast. 15 Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners gave up a day to attend a Workshop instructed by two American trainers Johnny McCarty and James Williams, teaching their techniques in 3D Areola and Nipple and Eyebrow Hairstrokes.

Then on Monday, 11th and Tuesday, 12th July, 23 attendees from all over Australia and New Zealand came to Sydney for the 3D Areola and Nipple, Eyebrow Hairstrokes and Lip Blend workshop.

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The brave breast cancer survivor models are now sporting breasts that look like they have a real nipple

This is a growing market that is attracting skincare manufacturers globally, including some market leaders. Charter attendees included Nestle, L'Oreal, Amway, Pharmavite, Burt's Bees, Shaklee, LycoRed, The Coca-Cola Company, Sunflower Market, Resveratrol Organics and many more. Sponsoring companies include; Platinum Sponsor, BioCell Technology, Gold Sponsor, Sabinsa and marketing partners Cognis, Fortitech, Nitita Gelatin NA, Inc. and Rousselot.

The 2nd Beauty From Within Conference (Nutricosmetics) will be held in Paris on 27th October, 2011.

For further details visit www. conferences@wrbm.com

and areola created by the exclusive pigment Numee Numee Nipple, created by Johnny McCarty himself, which is available only through Cosmetic Tattoo Australia.

Val Glover-Hovan of Cosmetic Tattoo Australia sponsored this event and is renowned for brining top-class educators to further practitioners’ education.

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APJ 56

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Australasian College Broadway offers VET FEE-HELP Sydney-based the Australasian College Broadway is the first Hair and Beauty College to be approved by the Government as a VET FEE-HELP provider, joining a small handful of private Colleges in Australia with this status. VET FEE-HELP is an income contingent loan scheme very similar to the University HECS system. It allows students to study VET (vocational education and training) accredited Diploma, Advanced Diploma, Graduate Certificate and Graduate Diploma hair and beauty therapy courses. The students only pay their tuition loan once their income reaches the minimum threshold level for repayment, at a rate of approximately $30 per week on an income of approximately $45,000 per annum.

Technology boom drives skincare devices market to new heights A report presented recently by Karen Doskow, representative of Kline in New York, at an event held by CosmeticsDesign confirmed that hand-held devices that enhance skin improvement are experiencing an incredible boom in sales. The devices delivers improved results for deeper cleansing and anti-ageing benefits such as toning and firming.

An example of what VET FEE-HELP can do Chadia Abouhalka, from Lidcombe, has two girls, aged eight and four. She has a social and bubbly personality. For some time Chadia has been seeking a career in a field that she is passionate about. While her young family is very important to Chadia, her belief is that being a mother should not prevent her from pursuing a career. When visiting her local beauty salon, Chadia thought seriously about becoming a beauty therapist, but she realised the costs of studying Beauty Therapy were probably going to be too high. Fortunately, Chadia saw an advertisement for The Australasian College Broadway, a college that offers VET FEE-HELP as an option for financing her study. Her dream could now become a reality. She visited the college and was able to qualify and enrol.

Today Chadia has successfully entered her first part-time job at the Granville Day Spa. When she graduates from the Australasian College Broadway, Chadia will have a secure, full-time job. Her dream of one day opening a salon and in the future handing it on to her daughter, is now within reach. She often tells her daughter if she works hard at school, one day she can work with her mum and take over the salon she will build for her. This is what VET FEE-HELP can achieve. For further information about VET FEE-HELP and The Australasian College Broadway visit www.australasiancollege.com.au or call 02 9571 8288.

The market research firm published a report on the current market with findings showing that the market has grown by over 50 per cent in the past year. Doskow, who is an industry expert, explained how the accelerated growth of technology in the skincare market has contributed to this boom. The devices appear to a wide audience and a wide range of products, and have been utilised by market leaders such as Clarisonic and Procter & Gamble.

Consumers are now recognising that skin results can substantially improve not just with good skincare, but also with the added support of technology. This trend is the result of consumer awareness to the value and benefit of technology, as they have experienced them in professional salons and clinics and see the value of including devices in their homecare. While these devices may not be able to deliver the same intensity of treatment as professional device, they do have a place in supporting treatment outcomes between services.

Certified Alpine Rose Active Protects Skin Proteins ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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It is well know that under duress we are challenged to develop resilience that ultimately makes us stronger. Now, a unique Alpine Rose has proven to offer some incredible antiageing properties. Mibelle Biochemistry investigated the symbolic Alpine Rose (Rhododendron Ferrugineum), a plant adapted to extreme conditions with a specific morphological and phytochemical set-up. The leaves form specific proteins called dehydrins to survive the freezing and dehydrating conditions of the alpine environment.

The Alpine Rose showed interesting in vivo activities to reduce the formation of carbonylated proteins, a marker of skin ageing. The extract inhibits the adhesion of the herpes virus to cells in vitro, which combines well with the in vivo activity. UVB leads to carbonylated proteins, skin ageing and is also suppressing the immune system, a condition that favours the outbreak of viral infections.

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APJ 57

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FRANCE PASSES BILL TO BAN PARABENS AND PHTHALATES IN COSMETICS

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By vote on May 3rd members of the French National Assembly voted to pass a bill of law that would immediately ban the use of endocrine disruptors such as phthalates, alkylphenols and parabens in consumer products. In order for the bill to become a law a further vote is required

by French Senators, which has not yet been scheduled.

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The new potential law is causing a high level of confusion among the French cosmetic industry, generating disbelief from the opposition and satisfaction from some consumer advocacy groups, and natural and organic cosmetic makers.

The French Chemical Industry Reacts The Union of Chemical Industries (UIC), a French association representing the French chemical industry, feels the law is a “disproportionate reaction… and excessive degree of precaution, completely disregarding the proper scientific processes and the careful logic applied by the European regulations”.

Opponents to the bill said that toxicity studies of endocrine disruptors “still rely on the definition of daily intake, while potential cocktail effects or the effect of small doses have been hardly or not studied”. To further strengthen the opposition's scientific and technical case, they endorsed evidence from INSERM and the ANSES of which neither have made their final risk assessment. Moreover, REACH, the European Community Regulation on chemicals and their safe use, does not ban all use of endocrine disruptors. In addition, the UIC is concerned about the ramifications of the law whereby they feel many of the applications, which use phthalates, parabens and derivatives of alkylphenols, are not technically substitutable. .

Support from NGOs and Organic Companies The position of consumer advocacy groups, NGOs and organic and natural cosmetic companies is obviously very different, especially regarding possible substitutes. They welcome the strong stance the French Deputies have taken and would very much like to see the bill pass through the Senate and become a law.

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The vote and potential new law strengthens the manufacturing and branding strategies of organic and natural cosmetic manufacturers.

The majority of the natural and organic cosmetic industry has already stopped using or has always refused to use parabens and other endocrine disruptors in their products.

Yet research gaps do exist, and further studies are required for both sides to be fully supported by scientific evidence.

For example, parabens have been thoroughly tested for acute toxicity, and for this reason the proponents feel it has remained an a c c e p t a b l e preservative.

However, very few studies show the consequences of the accumulation of small daily doses absorbed through the skin.

APJ 58

Luxury tea maker targets skincare market Tea Forte, a US-based provider of luxury teas to the global market, has launched a new range that targets the growing niche market for beauty from within products. The company says that the introduction of Skin-Smart Teas ties in with the fact that the ingestible 'beauty from within' range is one of the fastest niche growth segments worth $45m globally.

In line with this, the company estimates that the global market for natural beauty from within products is expected to grow to $2.5bn by 2012, with polyphenols expected to be the product segment that will trigger the fastest growth.

Tapping into polyphenols and catechins “Our skin's appearance is affected by numerous factors, including UV exposure from the sun, natural ageing, diet, daily stress, hormones and heredity," said the company's chief brand officer, Stuart Avery Gold.

"With the knowledge that the most efficacious medicines for solving skincare issues are derived from plant-based polyphenols and catechins, these teas are all-natural beneficial blends, which help to provide skin-smart, anti-inflammatory properties intended to promote a more youthful looking appearance and feeling healthier."

The range will initially include five different flavours that will retail at an SRP of $5.95, and will include Cucumber Mint green tea, Honey Yuzu green tea, as well as Swiss Apple red tea and Lychee Coconut white tea.

To Be Determined Nothing is final and the bill faces many potential outcomes. If Senators approve the bill as it is written it would become a law applicable upon publication in the Official Journal. However, it could also be rejected, or a vote could be enacted to amend the bill's text.

Regardless of the outcome, it is a courageous step for French Deputies and hopefully it will reverberate to other countries and governing bodies. After all, it seems the French Government is putting the consumers' best interests first by eliminating ingredients with potential harmful effects. If the bill becomes a law, gone will be the day when big companies dictate regulation and safety standards despite deep vested interests.

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and Melbourne. Not all beauty brands have a budget to warrant events or launches in smaller markets, and as bloggers we understand that. We aren't about big-budget parties or fancy feasts, we just want to engage with the brands and learn what they are really about.”

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What's more, the event is free to attend for registered bloggers, and sponsorship opportunities are now available to businesses wanting to be involved.

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Beauty Bloggers from around Australia will meet at the very first Australian Beauty Bloggers Weekend (ABBW) in Sydney on September 24 and 25, 2011.

For more information on the ABBW, please visit www.theabbw.com, email contact@theabbw.com, or contact Kimberly on 0414 843 884.

An event like no other, it was created by Jacie Galpin of YouveGotNail.com and Kimberly Nisson of ThePlasticDiaries.com to unite the ever-growing beauty blogging community with the Australian beauty industry. Over 80 beauty bloggers from all over Australia will meet in Sydney for a weekend of content building, brand engagement and community growth. The two-day event will also comprise of many mini-events, including attendance at the International Make-Up Artists Trade Show.

“Beauty blogging in Australia has exploded in the past two years. The ABBW is a phenomenal opportunity to bring together vibrant, diverse and committed bloggers with equally vibrant, diverse and committed brands. It's the opportunity of a lifetime and I am so excited to see what unfolds,” says Jacie Galpin, co-creator and organiser of ABBW. Kimberly believes it's finally time they brought this group of creative, dynamic individuals together so that the community can learn from each other. She further explains, “We also want to give those bloggers from smaller markets a chance to enjoy a piece of the beauty world we get to experience in larger markets like Sydney

Cosmetics turning back to simple ingredients As skincare ingredients are further investigated so we are seeing some simple ingredients come to the forefront of formulations, as further studies identify how and why they work. One common ingredient is lemon. According to Skincare News: “Because lemon contains alpha hydroxy acid, it can effectively exfoliate and clarify the skin. It removes dry, dead skin cells that clog pores and create a dull complexion.”

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Lemon juice also has a softening and bleaching action and is highly effective used in a clay mask to lighten and brighten the skin. For sensitive skin dilute with a little warm water before mixing with the clay. For an anti-ageing nourishing mask add a little honey and some almond oil. For the body, you can add 1/2 cup of fresh juice to your bathwater and soak for 20 minutes for an all-over skin treatment. When it comes to hair, lemon juice can highlight hair that is not colour treated, or can also be used as a natural cleanser, says Skincare News. The website suggests this lemon rinse recipe to cleanse the hair and scalp after shampooing: “Steep a few cut lemons in just-boiled water and let it cool to room temperature. Then, strain and pour over your hair. Be careful to avoid the eyes. Rinse completely and follow with a hydrating conditioner.”

For some great ideas on how to use lemon juice for pimples, thinning hair and numerous other benefits visit: http://www.ehow.com/how_5058113_use-skincare-beauty-treatment.html

Continued Education has its Rewards The Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) is pleased to announce the national accreditation of the Vocational Graduate Certificate in Dermal Therapies. This course has two main streams, one for allied health and beauty professionals and the other for medical doctors (including training in cosmetic injectables).

The objective of the course is to provide beauty therapists with the knowledge and hands-on skills to meet the employment requirements of a modern skin clinic and gain the credentials of a qualified Dermal Therapist. AACDS CEO Luke Fernandez states, “More clinics are expanding to offer dermal therapies, so it makes sense for therapists to have a qualification in dermal therapies. This not only helps to provide safe and effective treatments, but also as an excellent marketing tool”. ㄰

The course is delivered full-time over one semester or the equivalent part-time. Studies modes include online with practical competencies in Perth, Sydney or the Gold Coast or on-campus in Perth or the Gold Coast.

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For further information about this course visit www.aacds.edu.au or contact AACDS Ph: 08 9382 4788 or email

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APJ 59

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additive effects is a more effective way of tackling the appearance of cellulite, according to scientists from Johnson & Johnson (J&J). The researchers performed a number of tests, both in vivo and in vitro, to investigate the efficacy and mechanism of action of an anti-cellulite product recently released on the European market.

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Containing five different actives (tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine (THPE), caffeine, carnitine, forskolin and retinol) the product, when applied daily for 12 weeks, can decrease orange peel and stubborn cellulite appearance of the skin, the company claims.

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Actives to alter fat-storage

Combining multiple actives can increase efficacy of anti-cellulite cream When it comes to cellulite many believe that creams do not work.

However, research is now saying that there is now evidence to the contrary, but this depends on the formula.

Formulating a number of different actives with synergistic and

Skin 02 Updates Website

According to the study, published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, caffeine and carnitine were included in the product as they are known to alter how fat is stored in the adipocytes. Caffeine, the researchers explained, can stimulate the liberation of triglycerides and carnitine, the transfer of free fatty acids into the mitochondria to produce energy.

Similarly, forskolin was included in the formulation, as it is known to have a lipolytic effect, and retinol, for its role in skin regeneration.

“Numerous factors can act on the appearance of the cellulite. Among them, the structure of the epidermis can contribute to obtain a better improvement. Thus, cell proliferation participates in obtaining a thicker and more resistant epidermis,” explained study author and senior scientist at J&J Romain Roure when explaining the inclusion of retinol in the formulation.

In addition, THPE was included in the formulation for its lifting and firming properties, the researchers explained. According to Roure, cellulite's complex nature is behind the inclusion of multiple actives with different properties. “Cellulite is a multi-factorial skin condition that should be therefore approached using a multidirectional strategy. The learning of this study is that by combining actives delivering on different targets can generate better final benefits on cellulite,” he said.

In vivo study The double-blind randomised study included 78 subjects who applied either the placebo or the anti-cellulite product twice daily for 12 weeks on the hips, thighs, buttocks and stomach.

Skin O2 has updated their website - full of new products and treatments as well as being more interactive, we are sure our customers and stockists will love the new-look site and adore Dr Atia's breakthrough new products and equipment now available! Come and see us at www.skino2.com.au. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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“With the huge growth in Skin O2's popularity in Australia and abroad, the upgrade of the Skin O2 website has allowed our company to meet the WWW community demands for advanced education and interaction. We trust that this will assist our stockists and end users to achieve the best possible results in skincare!” said Alison Atia, Managing Director of Skin 02.

According to Roure and the team, circumference measurements in four body areas showed significant decreases after application of the formulation for 12 weeks. In addition, the researchers claimed that orange peel appearance was improved from four weeks and tonicity after eight weeks.

While they remained less exaggerated, the team did note improvements in those using the placebo cream, suggesting the positive effect of the massage motion that was used to apply the products. ㄰

“… the effect of the placebo could be explained by the weak effect of the massage used to make the product penetrate the skin.

However, the product delivered large and significantly better benefits when compared to the placebo,” Roure said.

Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00665. Evaluation of the efficacy of a topical cosmetic slimming product combining tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, caffeine, carnitine, forskolin and retinol, In vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies

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APJ60

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important “tools” for the practitioner to use in determining a style of eyeliner that suits the eyes and will heal flatteringly and age well.

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While some practitioners still use tints of blue, green or violet as eyeliner, most opt to stay with natural dark browns, dark taupes, black browns and blacks, as there is less concern about the long term. Staying with natural colours gives the client an option of easily changing her look with cosmetics, based on fashion trends. Natural is always in style. Extremes in colour or shape risk becoming quickly dated and are difficult, if not impossible to alter.

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So how do we go about doing an eyeliner? We have already discussed the condition and health of the eyes in the previous issue. The basic eye shapes is the next important step for eyeliner placement. The UPPER eyelid lash line will normally supply us with the template upon which to build suitable and good-looking eyeliner. There are no exceptions to the rule.

Even if the client has almond, hooded, prominent, deep set, Asian, small or close-set eyes, the lash line is your base starting point.

1. Large, protruding eyes may be made to look

The Eyes Have it – Part 2

by Val Glover-Hovan Cosmetic Tattoo Specialist and Educator This profession holds a lot of responsibility. I have had the opportunity to work on tens of thousands of people over the past 26 years and have watched how Cosmetic Tattoo treatments have changed the lives of many, from the big screen to the office, from the bedroom to the swimming pool.

It is proven that cosmetic tattoo make-up, when done well, has the power to help instil confidence and power. The way a woman feels about herself from the inside affects the way she looks on the outside.

Unfortunately, as our body ages, we lose our features – they are not as prominent and sharp as they once were in our youth. Each individual is a unique person, therefore, there is no such thing as a make-up look for every woman to follow. We don't want to look just like someone else. We are unique individuals with different wants, needs and lifestyle and each of us has our own personal taste.

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Client preference dramatically varies. An expert Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioner will evaluate and advise what would be best for each client. Being fully informed and having the right expectations is a very important part of this service.

EYELINER TO ENHANCE MORE YOUTHFUL-LOOKING EYES There is nothing like eyeliner to flatter and enhance the eyes. Some want very subtle lash enhancement. Eyelash Enhancement technique is when colour is implanted in between the lashes and when this heals it creates the effect of thicker, fuller lashes without a solid line. Others may want a more dramatic appearance. With definite eyeliner being very obvious, the age of the client and elasticity of the eye tissue are

more almond, less round shaped, by adding more thickness to the outer onethird of the upper lid, levelling off the eyeliner at the inner one-third and tapering through the mid-section. The lower lid should never be completely lined as it will bring attention to and exacerbate the low droop of a round, protruding eye.

2. Deep-set eyes are the most difficult eyes to work on. They are difficult to control and grip. The best eyeliner for deep-set eyes is a dark upper lash enhancement and lower liner.

3. Hooded eyes are often but not always crepe-like. With the eyes open see how much lid is visible and work within that range. To do much more work above the visible range will be work wasted, as it won't be seen with the client's eyes open.

The horizon of the eye is important and relevant to the shape of the eyebrows. We never want to design an eye with a downward pull; rather, we want to accentuate as much outward and upward visual direction as possible. Keep this in mind when designing eyeliners.

There is much more to eyeliner than following a lash line.

Colour selections are usually quite simple. Black upper eyeliner is the most often applied eyeliner colour. Clients might feel that “black” is too harsh for them as they previously had topically applied eyeliner at a make-up counter. Make-up sits on the top of the skin and blocks out any colour under it. Our tattoo colours don't do that, ours mingle with the colour of the skin and produce yet a separate colour as the healed result. Once the layers of skin grow back and accumulate over the tattooed line, the lash hairs diffuse the eyeliner farther and the visual result is vastly less powerful than black, topically applied make-up.

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If in doubt, begin with brown/black or black/brown as a darker colour can always be added at the follow-up appointment. Often it is a good

APJ 62

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exercise within 24 hours after having eyeliner tattoo are candidates for this problem. Laser is the only way to zap that colour out and is very successful.

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EDUCATION IS THE KEY TO SUCCESS

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In the next issue The Eyes Have it – Part 3, I will cover Designer Eyeliner & Eye Shadow. Meanwhile, if I can be of any further assistance please do not hesitate to contact me.

idea to place a softer colour on the lower lids, but this depends on the client's request. Again, with the lower lash tattooing, the lash line is the template. Taper the liner in to end softly at the inner corner, dropping slightly under the lashes at the inner corner. One must be careful not to follow the lash line too closely at the beginning as this will give a curl and droopy look to the eye and is not a good look.

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Val Glover-Hovan is a multi-award winner and renowned internationally for her techniques and teaching methods in Cosmetic Tattoo. Val is the principal of Cosmetic Tattoo Australia and can be contacted for training advice or supplies on 1300 88 6655 or sales@hovansgroup.com.au and www.hovansgroup.com.au

Many women from the ’60s and ’70s era request that bright, over-done blue eyeliner. However, extremes in colour risk becoming quickly dated and are difficult, if not impossible, to alter. Many of the colours have white in them and that white is then floating in the skin long after the blue or green fades out.

NEEDLE SIZES Needle sizes for doing eyeliners vary with each practitioner, with the most common size used a three round. My preference is a three round, tight sharp for top eyeliner. After removing the topical anaesthetic, rinsing the eyes with Optrex Eye Wash to clear any product from the eye, I implant colour in and around lash hairs, working slowly using the pointillism technique. There are various ways of implanting colour. I find pointillism is less aggressive, creating minimum trauma in the eye area. The stretch of the skin is very important for proper, quick implant of colour, and the firm “press and stretch” technique reassures the client you have control and she is safe in your hands.

Eyeliner Lady in her 20s

GETTING THE SHAPE RIGHT When increasing the line and design above the lashes, this is where your artistic flair and judgement comes into play, knowing the correct point to commence, increasing the width, taper and length. The application of anaesthesia throughout the procedure ensures minimal discomfort.

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Outer ends and corners can be a challenge to get both eyes even. No two eyes are the same and usually fall differently, especially when the client is on her back. Sitting the client up several times during this procedure is vital to get an even result, especially if you are adding extra-wide outer wings. Any person with wrinkles, folds and crepey eyes at the outer corners are not suitable candidates for extended eyeliner. Home care is minimal – no creams to be applied. It is best to let healing take its natural course. It is very difficult to apply any cream on the tattooed eyes without getting it in the eyes, causing much irritation, very sore eyes and creating unnecessary problems. Makeup can be worn within 24 hours with a light application of mascara (not waterproof).

There is a lot that can go wrong, of which the average practitioner is unaware. It is only when they see the potential of their first disaster that reality sets in. Colour migration can occur if overworking into the outer corners of the eye. This looks like bruising under the skin. There are many thoughts as to why this happens, the skin being very thin, an overload of colour implanted into the same area or too deep needle insertions. We also have observed that clients who do physical

Eyeliner Lady in her 40s

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Eyeliner Mature Lady

APJ 63

Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...

If you own or manage a salon in the beauty or wellness industry, the 5 point business check-up is a must.

1. H ave you added a new treatment or service to your salon’s menu in the last 12 months?

Remember, your insurance policy needs to include cover for any new treatments you now offer, or plan to offer.

YES NO

2. Have you purchased anything worth more than $1000?

Purchases like POS systems, (or even a large order of new stock), can alter the amount of insurance cover your salon needs. It’s vital you know what your level of cover is, and exactly what your policy does (and does not) cover.

YES NO

3. H ave you moved address, hired or fired any staff?

Your insurance policy details must be ‘up-to-the-minute’ correct to avoid any loopholes in the event of a claim.

YES NO

Ph. Mon - Fri (07) 5502 8326 Email: sue@thesparrowgroup.com.au Mobile: 0422 313 081 Fax: (07) 5519 4359 www.thesparrowgroup.com.au

4. Is the correct person or registered entity listed on your insurance policy? (Company, Trust etc.)

It’s the little details that can cost you time and money in the event of a claim.

A FREE Insurance Review is the best way to make sure you’re covered.

YES NO

5. Have new or better policies come onto the market recently?

An insurance review doesn’t mean you end up paying more. If fact, there could be more competitive products or insurers standing by right now to save you.

YES NO

If you ticked YES to ANY of the questions in the 5 point check-up, call and ask for a Complimentary Insurance Review. It’s FREE. There’s no obligation. And you could start saving… Today.

the

INSURANCE

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Unfair Dismissal and the interpretation of the Law

By Michael Bishop – Pointon Partners Lawyers We have had several enquiries with regards to clarification on the new Unfair Dismissal laws as employers as well as staff need to understand both their rights and obligations.

In this article Michael Bishop from Pointon Partners Lawyers presents an article that outlines the various definitions and requirements.

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Employers should be aware that unfair dismissal applications are able to be commenced more easily under the Fair Work Act 2009 (Cth) ('the Act'). The 100 employee exception under the WorkChoices regime was abolished when the unfair dismissal provisions of the Act came into operation on 1 July, 2009.

WHAT IS HARSH, UNJUST OR UNREASONABLE?

Employers must be aware that they are obliged under the Act to allow employees to have a support person present at any discussion relating to dismissal.

In considering whether a dismissal was harsh, unjust or unreasonable, Fair Work Australia must take into account the following:

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WHAT IS UNFAIR DISMISSAL? Unfair dismissal applications are made to Fair Work Australia and must be made within 14 days of the dismissal coming into effect.

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An unfair dismissal occurs where an employee makes an unfair dismissal remedy application and Fair Work Australia finds that:

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The employee was dismissed, and The dismissal was harsh, unjust or unreasonable, and The dismissal was not a case of genuine redundancy, and The dismissal was not consistent with the Small Business Fair Dismissal Code, where the employee was employed by a small business.

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A small business is a business that employs fewer than 15 employees.

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WHO IS ELIGIBLE TO MAKE AN APPLICATION? ㈵

Be covered by an award or agreement if they earn more than $118,100 a year.

Whether there was a valid reason for the dismissal related to the person's capacity or conduct (including its effect on the safety and welfare of other employees), and Whether the person was notified of that reason, and Whether the person was given an opportunity to respond to any reason related to the capacity or conduct of the person, and Any unreasonable refusal by the employer to allow the person to have a support person present to assist at any discussions relating to dismissal, and If the dismissal related to unsatisfactory performance by the person whether the person had been warned about that unsatisfactory performance before the dismissal, and The degree to which the size of the employer's enterprise would be likely to impact on the procedures followed in effecting the dismissal, and The degree to which the absence of dedicated human resource management specialists or expertise in the enterprise would be likely to impact on the procedures followed in effecting the dismissal, and Any other matters that Fair Work Australia considers relevant.

To be eligible to apply an employee must, among other things, have:

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It is important that an employer before dismissing an employee for performance issues brings those issues to the attention of the

Completed a minimum employment period of at least six months (one year in the case of a small business employee), and

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employee and affords the employee an opportunity to address the concerns well prior to any dismissal. In addition to having a meeting with the employee it would be prudent to document in writing the performance issues and provide a copy to the employee. Similarly, any failure of the employee to address the performance concerns should be documented so that a contemporaneous record of events is created that can be relied upon in the future if required.

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New Improved Professional Peels

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WHAT IS A GENUINE REDUNDANCY?

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The person's employer no longer required the person's job to be performed by anyone because of changes in the operational requirements of the employer's enterprise, and The employer has complied with any obligation in a modern award or enterprise agreement that applied to the employment to consult about the redundancy.

A person's dismissal was not a case of genuine redundancy if it would have been reasonable in all the circumstances for the person to be redeployed within:

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The employer's enterprise; or The enterprise of an associated entity of the employer.

Employers should seriously consider redeployment as an option before making any decision to dismiss an employee. Employers should also note that unless they are a small business with 15 or fewer employees they will have to pay redundancy pay to an employee who has been an employee for a period over 12 months if they choose to make such an employee redundant.

THE UNFAIR DISMISSAL APPLICATION PROCESS Once an employee's unfair dismissal application has been lodged with Fair Work Australia the employer should receive written notification of the application, information about the process Fair Work Australia will follow and an employer response form. The employee and the employer should also receive details of the time and date for the conciliation of the application.

Conciliation is an informal, private and generally confidential process where a Fair Work Australia conciliator assists employees and employers to resolve an unfair dismissal application by agreement.

If the unfair dismissal application is not withdrawn or does not settle at or before the conciliation, the employer and the employee will each receive written notification from Fair Work Australia of any conferences or hearings to be held on the application.

An employer can object to an unfair dismissal application on the basis:

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A person's dismissal was a case of genuine redundancy if:

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The applicant was not unfairly dismissed; The application was lodged with FWA outside of the prescribed time limits; The applicant is not covered by the unfair dismissal laws or is not eligible to make an application; The application is frivolous, vexatious or has no reasonable prospects of success.

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CIRCADIA by Dr. Pugliese Ph: 1800 247 223

POINTON PARTNERS LAWYERS If you have any queries in relation to the above article or any other legal issues affecting your business please feel free to contact Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners.

APAN members receive an initial free consultation in relation to any legal queries or issues they may have.

Pointon Partners is a client-focused commercial law firm based in Melbourne, but which services clients nationally. Pointon Partners is able to assist with: ! advice on obligations under the Fair Work Act & the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010; ! preparation of employment contracts; ! advice on termination of staff & defending of unfair dismissal claims; ! registration of trademarks; ! trademark disputes; ! preparation or review of commercial leases; ! negotiation & preparation of commercial contracts; ! franchising; ! wills and estate planning; and ! buying or selling a business.

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If Fair Work Australia finds that a person has been unfairly dismissed, it may order reinstatement. It may order payment of compensation only if it considers that reinstatement is inappropriate. ㈵

Employers should be aware of the unfair dismissal process under the Act to try and minimise the risk of an unfair dismissal application being brought against them by an employee.

Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners can be contacted on (03) 9642 8668 or by email mjb@pointonpartners.com.au or ah@pointonpartners.com.au

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SENSITIVE DRY SKIN (VATA) Delicate skins that tend to be dry belong to the Vata skin type. Skin rasayanas that benefit Vata types are mainly nourishing, with subsidiary benefits such as enhancing natural glow or purifying the skin. Such herbs also balance Vata dosha in the physiology, calming and settling the mind and supporting stress management, which are often manifested as fine lines, sagging and bags under the eyes.

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To help you appreciate some of the unique ingredients used to address this skin type here is a list of some of the ingredients you will find:

Ayurvedic approach to Beauty

Brahmi (Bacopa), Shatavari (Indian Asparagus), Amla (Indian Gooseberry), Gotu kola (Indian Pennywort) and Ashwagandha (Winter Cherry) are potent Vata-pacifying skin rasayanas that help support skin elasticity, moisture balance, texture and radiance.

They are ultra-nourishing, helping to regenerate skin cells and keep skin looking youthful. Triphala, made from equal parts of Indian Gooseberry, Beleric Myrobalan and Chebulic Myrobalan, are also excellent for Vata skin because it combines nourishment with a gentle detoxifying effect to enhance skin clarity. Topical formulations for Vata skin infuses these herbs with nourishing oils using traditional methodology that make the formulation effective.

using Ancient Remedies in a Modern World

by Yasmin Sadikot Ancient remedies are as relevant today as they were thousands of years ago. More so with the increasing knowledge that artificial and chemical ingredients can be detrimental, not only to the skin, but for general wellbeing as well. What is put on the skin is absorbed, as the skin is the largest organ of the body. Skin is an outer protective covering which protects the face, body and scalp. One of the main reasons that Ayurvedic skincare products and protocols are becoming highly popular worldwide is due to the availability of numerous potent skin rasayanas in the Ayurvedic herbal treasury.

Skin rasayanas (rasa meaning essence and ayana meaning enter) are so called because of their ability to deliver penetrating holistic benefits to the skin without side effects. Whatever the skin type and its needs for balance, there are Ayurvedic skin rasayanas that can help.

Further, when used in combination, as dictated by Ayurvedic tradition, there is the added benefit of synergy, with the combined formulation being exponentially more beneficial than any single herb in the formulation. These rasayanas should be seen as nutritional supplements to provide support to the skin, face, body and hair in topical formulations where the benefits are delivered transdermally. It should be noted that true Ayurvedic formulations for internal or external use are only effective when used in combination with other herbs to help alleviate or balance a problem.

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The therapeutic value of the rasayanas is maximised when they are used in natural topical formulations in combination with emollients such as milk, cream, yoghurt or honey, exfoliating substances such as natural clay, salts, grain or lentil flours, vegetable base oils, and floral waters or pure vegetable oils. In this way they release the healing values of the herbs to the cells and tissues. Both the herbs themselves, as well as the other ingredients in the formulations, can be chosen specifically for a skin type, or balanced to suit all skin types.

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Formulations that are classified as tridoshic are suitable for all skin types and generally have many more herbs and ingredients to avoid aggravating an individual body type known as dosha. The herbs should be fresh, high quality and not exposed to high temperatures.

Formulations that add herbs to chemical bases or that contain artificial preservatives or fragrances are not as effective in maintaining skin health and appearance, just as processed food is said to have less nutrients than fresh food.

NORMAL TO SENSITIVE SKIN (PITTA) Pitta skin is predominantly sensitive and is generally neither dry nor oily. Skin rasayanas that support the health of Pitta skin are mainly cooling and soothing, with some element of nourishing and purifying as well. These rasayanas also balance Pitta in the physiology, balancing the emotions and inducing inner serenity and emotional balance that are reflected on the skin as a calmer skin. Pitta skin also requires protection, because it tends to be more photosensitive than other types of skin. Ingredients to look for are: Amla, Bhringaraj (Eclipta alba), Kumari (aloe vera), White Sandalwood, Red Sandalwood and Lajawanti (Mimosa Pudica) are considered the pre-eminent Pitta-pacifying skin rasayanas. They draw out excess heat, support the skin's natural ability to withstand the ravages of the environment, and keep skin clear and healthy. They nourish sensitive skin tissue without irritating it. Triphala, Manjistha (Indian Madder) and Neem are also helpful for Pitta skin because they purify and clarify the skin without depleting it of moisture or youthfulness. Topical formulations for Pitta skin combine these herbs with soothing oils.

OILY SKIN (KAPHA) Kapha skin is predominantly oily, congested. Skin rasayanas for Kapha skin are therefore first purifiers that detoxify and clarify, with subsidiary properties of being nourishing and rejuvenating. These herbs also balance Kapha dosha in the physiology, invigorating the mind and body so that the skin appears alive and vital, reducing the congestion that dulls Kapha skin.

Ingredients include: Neem, Manjistha (Indian Madder), Triphala, Tulsi (Holy Basil), Cloves and Turmeric are potent Kapha-balancing skin rasayanas.

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They help detoxify the skin while nourishing it at the same time. They balance oil content in the skin and enhance clarity and brightness. Because of their effective detoxification properties, these rasayanas keep Kapha skin squeaky clean, so that it stays healthy and naturally radiant. Topical formulations for Kapha skin combine these herbs with light oils.

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Tridoshic formulations (which means for all skin types) draw on skin rasayanas from each group to offer the combined benefits of nourishment, detoxification, protection and balanced temperature.

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Another important thing to remember is that Ayurvedic formulations such as creams and lotions do not have water in them, therefore they appear to be thick in consistency. The base is generally oil and beeswax in which herbs are infused for maximum potency. The importance of this is that they should be viewed as concentrates and can be made lighter on application by using wet fingertips to massage them in. Massaging the cream or lotion helps the skin to absorb the goodness and impart the benefits. Some herbs have strong colours like turmeric, red sandalwood, manjishta (madder), saffron. Products made to traditional formulations will reflect the herbs used in them as well as their aromas.

HERE ARE A FEW OTHER AYURVEDIC HERBS THAT ARE FREQUENTLY USED IN BEAUTYCARE: Turmeric (Haldi) – Curucuma Longa: Turmeric is mainly used to ensure a glowing, bright skin. Turmeric facemasks are extensively available for their skin-friendly treatment that prevents bacterial infection. Turmeric pastes are beneficial for pigmentation, restore pH balance and can be used on face and body to enhance the complexion and brightness of skin.

White Sandalwood (Chandan) – Santalum Album: The external application of chandan is through oil, powder and paste derived from the herb. The aromatic essence of chandan has made it a favourite of the beauty industry. It possesses various soothing qualities that effectively work to improve skin ailments and alleviate allergies. Herbal facemasks and scrubs made from sandalwood powder effectively cleanse and cool the skin.

Red Sandalwood (Rakta Chandana) – Pterocarpus santalinus: Red sandalwood powder is used for facial tonics, creams and lotions. It has antiseptic properties and is used for healing wounds and also has calming and cooling properties.

Neem – Azadirachta indica: This herb is used as a skin cleanser for acne, psoriasis and eczema-inflicted skins and to treat common hair problems like dandruff.

Basil (tulsi) – Ocimum sanctum: Effective against scars and blemishes. Basil leaves contain many health benefits such as eugenol, citronellol, linalool, citral, limonene and terpineol. These compounds are known to have anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. The Basil herb contains exceptionally high levels of beta-carotene, vitamin A, cryptoxanthin, lutein and zea-xanthin. These compounds help act as protective scavengers against oxygen-derived free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) that play a role in ageing.

Aloe Vera: This is used in many skincare formulations. It is beneficial for skin irritations and scars. The primal effect of this herb comes from its soothing properties.

Yasmin Sadikot is the founder of OmVeda International Pty Ltd, a pioneer company, whose formulas are based on strict Ayurvedic principles. OmVeda offers an extensive treatment menu for all skin conditions and a comprehensive retail line. Full training is available with opening orders. For more information please visit www.omveda.com.au or call 1 300 662 383.

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if you do, you are in the minority. If you did receive a WOW experience you will remember it for a long time to come and will always tell others when the subject matter is brought up in conversation.

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ACHIEVING OUR “DUTY OF CARE” So let's go back to my question of “Are we really thinking about the client?” We think that we are really thinking about the client, but often we are really thinking about ourselves. Now this is usually the case with staff in a business. In some cases the salon owner also carries this misconception without realising it as well. I must also say at this point that I have met some awesome staff in the industry that are really thinking about the client.

However, as a rule, they are a minority.

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What then is the missing link? There are three words that describe it and that is “Duty of Care”. Yes, it is that simple, and yes, we all believe that we are delivering this level of service, but in reality we are not. Again I say that no doubt as a salon owner you would deliver this level of service, but you cannot be there all the time, with other important matters to attend to, while you expect your trained staff to be working on your clients. Yes, they are technically working on your clients, but are they delivering “Duty of Care”?

Let me give you an example of “Duty of Care”. We all get sick and visit the doctor if we need to find out what is causing us to feel this way. A good doctor always greets you, makes you feel welcome and then proceeds to find out the reason for your visit.

A consultation occurs and the doctor abstracts information from you so that they can provide you with an informed and medically responsible diagnosis of your ailment. They then proceed to go the extra distance to give you an overall medical examination, to make sure that all vital signs are in order and that they are then satisfied that they have not missed anything else. They then, if necessary, prescribe you with medication, a behaviour regime to improve your health, and hence you recover from your illness.

Are we truly CLIENT-FOCUSED?

by Phillip Fernandez Most salon owners would confirm that they believe that in their business they are client-focused in giving them the service they want and meeting with their expectations. But what about your staff, do they also focus on your clients when you are not there?

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We are in the service business, retail business, or I would say the antiageing business. You see the human being would like to prolong the ageing process wherever possible. Guess what, we are totally responsible for this process in the beauty business, or even the hair business for that matter .We have heard the cliché “If you look good you feel good”`. How true is this statement as we endeavour to make the client feel good, but in most cases do not create the WOW factor.

You see, the client in today's market is savvy, and expects good service wherever they go, but will always crave for the WOW experience if they can get it. Let's turn the table around. Assume that you are a client in another industry. Think about the times when you have bought a dress, shoes, jewellery, handbag, etc. Did you get good service, or a service that was below your expectations? Notice that the question identifies two levels of service.

As a general rule many clients only receive average service or below their expectations. Yes, this might offend some of you that strive to give that extra, or to create a memorable experience, but let me tell you

You are extremely happy with the whole procedure and could not ask for any more, as the doctor has given you everything and more than you asked for. Now, once you walk out of the consultation room, they have done their “Duty of Care”. It is now up to you to make the decision and take the necessary action to improve your health and recover. The doctor will not lose sleep over your decision to follow the prescription and instructions given. He or she has performed their “Duty of Care” in the consultation room.

They have provided a comprehensive service with conviction, confidence and integrity to ensure that you are introduced to the right path of recovery.

HOW TO ENTHUSE AND EXCITE THE CLIENT Now let's look at the beauty therapist and see the similarities. First, we need to think as a “beauty” doctor. Yes, I use the word doctor because of the mindset that we need to employ when dealing with our clients.

When we are in the consultation room with our clients and providing a service, we need to ensure that that we carry out much more than just the service with care and expertise. We also need to engage in what I call “intelligent conversation” with them to not only educate and inform them of their options, but also enthuse and excite them in making an informed decision.

One might say, I do educate and inform, but how do I enthuse and excite the client? Well you see if you are really thinking about the client you will be passionate, confident and really interested in the

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client and their needs, and this will unconsciously be registered to the client. This client will be more inclined to make the decision to have that extra service or even purchase the skincare product that she knows that she needs. Notice that I said the client makes the decision and not you. Research has proven that that all clients crave for the “Wow”` experience and eight out of 10 who experience this will make the decision to take the advice and purchase. This only happens when genuine “Duty of Care” is displayed and when the therapist is really thinking about the client and not themselves.

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So what are some of the mindsets and thoughts of a therapist who is not providing “Duty of Care”? Here are some examples: ! I feel sorry for the client as she has just had a divorce and has a mortgage she cannot afford ! She does not seem to be that well off by the way she is dressed ! I am concerned that I may be perceived as pushy if I recommend further treatments or products ! I lack the confidence in presenting products or up-selling to an IPL service as I really want the client to like me and come back and not feel pushed into something they may not want ! I won't recommend any additional services or products I have identified as it would mean that this would cost quite a bit extra on top of what she has already come in for ! I just feel a little tired and lazy today so I am just going to be pleasant and do exactly what the client have booked in for and nothing more.

Yes, some of those observations might be harsh, but unfortunately they are very common. As human beings we can often be self-centred and this can prevent us from being our best. Beauty therapists do often struggle with such thoughts. But until we endeavour to stop being judgemental and unconsciously thinking about ourselves, we will not be focused on providing genuine “Duty of Care” and we will not stand out as a true professional whose clients beg to secure their next visit with and respond positively to our recommendations. Isn't this a great level of achievement to reach? Gaining such a position with your client will mean that you will never have to worry about your sales target, hourly rate per client and your KPI reviews. Your relationship with your client and the level of respect they will have for you will allow you to achieve both results for them, as well as reaching your sales targets without nearly as much effort. This is truly an A-level profile therapist that will attract A-level profile clients.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT STAFF When choosing your staff make sure you are not only looking for skills, but more importantly look to identify their whole mental and emotional approach towards customer care. Look for those attributes that will ensure that they have the right mindset to deliver service with the appropriate “Duty of Care” that will meet and exceed client expectations. Let's address the cause and not the symptom, which is their behaviour that is preventing them from achieving their KPIs.

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However, once you have achieved a high level of “Duty of Care” you have an obligation to constantly maintain this standard of service. We must be continual in our “Duty of Care” as a client's expectation will come to expect that high standard every time and will more importantly be ready to pay for it as well.

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Remember, clients don't care how much you know until they know how much you care.

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For further information on the above or any related management/staff performance topics please contact the writer.

Phillip Fernandez, Human Strategist, Wizard Business Consulting E: phillip@businesswizards.com.au W: www.businesswizards.com.au

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The Role of Telomeres in slowing

THE AGEING PROCESS

by Dr Dzung Price

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Each of us carries within us a unique and complex universe of knowledge, skills, wisdom, life experiences,and human relationships.

Much of this rich treasury of information is lost when someone gets gravely ill, becomes stricken with disease or dies. As famed neuroscientist Anders Sandberg said, “Every time a human being dies, a library burns”. If you love living and still have many things you would like to accomplish, then living as long as possible in full and vigorous health will let you achieve more and become a valuable person.

Thanks to recent profound breakthroughs in DNA research, it is now possible for you to extend your life expectancy beyond 100 years to 120 or even more. It will also be possible for you to lead an active,

robust lifestyle, maintaining the strength and vitality you had when you were much younger, looking half your age and even have a great sex life. ㄰

DID HAYFLICK GET IT WRONG? No matter how well you take care of yourself, what you eat, how great your genes are, or how lucky you are, scientists have thought it impossible for any human being to live past 120. This is called the Hayflick limit, named after Leonard Hayflick, a professor of microbiology who proposed that the human cell is limited in the number of times it can divide (about 50-70 times), after which the cell enters a stage called cellular senescence where its ability to divide slows and eventually stops.

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Hayflick discovered that, in essence, there is a clock ticking inside every dividing cell of our body. Our ageing process isn't simply a consequence of accumulated damage: there is a specific property of our cells that limits how long we can live. The nature of this property was proposed independently in the early 1970s by both Soviet and American scientists (1). These scientists suggested that the limitation on cell division is rooted in the very nature of DNA replication. The enzymes that replicate a strand of DNA are unable to continue replicating all the way to the end, which causes the loss of some DNA nucleotides, called telomeres.

Telomere biology is the most exciting medical breakthrough in the past century and the true bastion of longevity research. It's causing a revolution in the way we think about ageing. In fact, the doctors who discovered it (Carol Greider, Elizabeth Blackburn and Jack Szostak) won the Nobel Prize in Medicine in 2009 for their pioneering research they did in the role of telomeres and chromosomes, and for the discovery of telomerase, an enzyme that causes the ends of chromosomes, the telomeres, to grow.

WHAT IS A TELOMERE? A telomere is the part of your DNA chromosome that controls ageing.

Telomeres are the biological time-clock that represents how much life you have “burnt off” and how much you have left. They are protective tips that cap the ends of your DNA that keeps your chromosomes stable.

Each time our cells divide and our chromosomes replicate, our telomeres become shorter. When we are first conceived, the telomeres in our single-cell embryos are approximately 15,000 nucleotides long.

Our cells divide rapidly in the womb, and by the time we are born our telomeres have decreased in length to approximately 10,000 nucleotides. They shorten throughout our lifetime, and when they reach an average of about 5,000 nucleotides, our cells cannot divide any further, and we die of old age. However, certain stresses accelerate the speed at which your cells have to divide to repair itself and the speed at which the telomeres shorten. The more cells you have that do this, the older your body acts.

The good news is there is an enzyme called telomerase that can rebuild the telomeres at the end of your DNA, thus lengthening your telomeres. Every one of your cells has this telomerase gene enzyme, but in normal cases it's turned off, or the gene is repressed. It seems that as we get older, the amount of telomerase in our cells decreases. If you can either activate the telomerase enzyme to lengthen the telomeres, or address the factors responsible for telomere shortening, you can help slow the ageing process in these cells. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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In a cell that expresses telomerase, telomeres are lengthened as soon as they shorten. Germ cells and cancer cells contain active telomerase enzymes. This is one reason these cells are considered immortal, with an unending ability to reproduce itself. Our reproductive cells are also considered immortal and show no signs of ageing. Sperm cells divide millions of times and their telomeres never shorten. Telomerase enzyme adds telomere DNA back during the formation of sperm and perhaps eggs, thus ensuring that our offspring inherit long “young” telomeres to propagate the species. That's why an 80-year old man can still father children.

Naturally, the exploration of this enzyme is now the focus of much investigation, from how to turn the telomeres “off” to limit the spread of “immortal” cancer cells, to turning them “on” for longevity purposes. Although telomerase is necessary for cancers to extend their lifespan, studies so far have not shown that turning on telomerase cause cancer (2). This has been repeatedly demonstrated. At least seven assays for cancer have been performed on telomerase-positive human cells: the soft agar assay, the contact inhibition assay, the mouse xenograft assay, the karyotype assay, the serum inhibition assay, the gene expression assay and the checkpoint analysis assay. All reported negative results.

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CAN SKIN AGEING BE REVERSED? Proofs Of Principle In 1997, scientists inserted active telomerase genes into human skin cells grown in a petri dish (3). They observed that the skin cells became immortal with endless cell division. When they examined the lengths of these telomerised cells, they found that the telomeres didn't just stop shortening, they actually grew longer.

A few years later, scientists inserted the telomerase gene into human skin cells that already had very short telomeres (4). These cells were then grown into skin on the back of mice. They found that the skin from cells that hadn't received the telomerase gene looked like old skin. It was wrinkled, it blistered easily, and it had gene expression patterns indicative of old skin. The skin grown from cells that had received the telomerase gene in contrast looked young. It acted like young skin, and its gene expression patterns were almost identical to the gene expression patterns of young skin. For the first time, scientists had demonstrably reversed ageing in human cells.

Would the concept apply to living organisms? In November 2008, scientists published a paper describing how they had created cloned mice from mouse cells containing the inserted telomerase gene, which continually produced the telomerase enzyme (5). These mice were shown to live 50% longer than cloned mice created from cells that didn't contain the inserted telomerase gene.

It's becoming increasingly clear that prevention of telomere shortening might be the best way to extend human lifespan beyond the theoretical 125-year maximum lifespan. In addition, living a healthy, vibrant life while preserving more youthful looks as you age is becoming a very real possibility.

Theories about the Causes of Ageing Because ageing is not a simple process and may indeed have multiple causes, there are quite a number of theories on the cause of ageing.

Here's a short list.

1. Free Radicals: Free radicals from antioxidant deficiency cause mutations in our proteins and our DNA. 2. Mitochondrial damage and dysfunction: Reactive oxygen species produced via cellular metabolism attack mitochondrial DNA causing ageing 3. Cross-linkage: A process called glycation causes sugar molecules to bind with protein molecules creating globs of gunk called Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs), which build up, trigger chronic inflammation and cause a host of disease and ageing.

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4. Hayflick limit: We are simply programmed to die when the cell has lost vital DNA code after errors have accumulated from repeated replication.

5. Immune system: The decreased efficiency of the immune system causes ageing.

One thing all of these theories have in common is that they are all related to accelerated telomere loss and damage. The speed at which our telomeres shorten is determined by the outcomes of the endless war our body wages on the damaging forces that actively attempt to destroy our cells and our entire bodies. At every moment we are engaged in an internal struggle against negative forces, including oxidation, glycation (sugars), inflammation, DNA gene mutation and abnormal methylation. At the same time, we are dealing with external threats: environmental toxins, electromagnetic pollution and chronic stress. As the balance shift towards the forces of decay, we age faster and we succumb to more specific diseases, and the pace of telomere shortening picks up.

Geneticist Richard Cawthon and colleagues at the University of Utah found shorter telomeres are associated with shorter lives. Among people older than 60, those with shorter telomeres were three times more likely to die from heart disease and eight times more likely to die from infectious disease.

RESETTING OUR AGEING TIME CLOCK So how can we reset the biologic time clock – the Telomeres? Well there are two big things you can do:

1. You can slow down the loss of the telomere segments by addressing the telomerase shortening factors and the four major ageing factors: oxidation, glycation, inflammation and abnormal methylation. This slows down ageing.

2. You can add length to the telomeres by activating the telomerase enzyme. This reverses the ageing process.

Smoking, drinking, sleep deprivation, chronic stress, illnesses, hormonal imbalances, sedentary behaviour, obesity, exposure to environmental toxins and injury all increase the cellular replication process, which in turns speeds up telomere loss.

Shorter than normal telomeres are associated with the diseases of ageing, including heart disease, Alzheimer's disease, osteoporosis and arthritis. Minimising these stressors is key to telomere preservation and to slow down the ageing process.

HOW CAN WE PREVENT TELOMERE SHORTENING?

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1. Exercise: Any exercise is beneficial, but the best ones for telomere preservation involve short bursts of high-intensity exercise that also builds muscle and promotes growth-hormone release.

2. Anti-inflammatory diet: Eat organic whole foods where possible and remove sugar and processed foods from your diet. Add in essential fatty acids and super foods such as medicinal mushrooms and herbs to fortify your immune system and increase resistance to disease.

3. Sleep: Massively underestimated as a health benefit. Sleep at least eight hours per night.

4. Vitamin D: is a powerful epigenetic influencer.

5. Meditation and stress management: This can slow down the rate of cellular ageing and telomere shortening.

6. Specific supplements and antioxidants that reduce oxidative stress to cells: There are four in particular that also show promise at preserving telomere length: ! Omega 3 Fish oils – 3000mg once to twice daily ! Glutathione – (or precursor N-Acetyl Cysteine) 600mg twice daily

! !

L-Carnosine – 1000mg per day Coenzyme Q10 – 200-600mg daily

HOW CAN WE LENGTHEN THE TELOMERES? Lengthening the telomeres of healthy cells may help to prevent cancer and other diseases by boosting the immune system and making the genome (the DNA) more stable. It also extends the life span of the cells and ultimately of the organism.

There are telomerase activators available recently discovered. One such compound is TA-65, a nutraceutical made from a highly concentrated extract of the Chinese herb Astragalus, which was discovered by Geron Corporation and licensed to TA Sciences. The telomerase-activating potency of TA-65 has been independently proven in rigorous tests by Geron and Sierra Sciences, a biotech company specialising in telomere biology. They found that TA-65 activates telomerase and lengthens telomeres.

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Other activators and telomere inducers are in development. Fullfledged telomere therapy should be available within the next decade.

We are at the beginning of fascinating new possibilities for intervening in age-related disease. Scientists around the world are looking for cures for ageing, and control of telomere length is not the only one being discussed. Other ways range from hormonal rejuvenation to ancient herbs to detoxification to stem-cell therapy.

Stem-cell therapy actually works on a principle similar to telomerase activation; the idea is to periodically infuse the body with young cells to replace cells that have ceased dividing. Human embryonic stem cells hold great promise in regeneration due to their ability to become any kind of cell needed to repair and restore damaged tissues. But the potential of embryonic stem cells has been constrained by a number of practical problems, not least among them the difficulty of growing sufficient quantities of stable, useable cells and the risk that some of these cells might form tumours.

HOW CAN WE EXTEND LIFE SPAN? So for humans to extend life we must do two things: first, eliminate the toxins in our environment that make short telomeres a "good thing", while finding a dietary or pharmaceutical method for increasing and preserving the length of our cells’ telomeres.

The 21st century may well be the era in which humans learn the secrets of longevity, but it may also be a time to be reminded of the many dangers inherent in exploring these god-like abilities.

REFERENCES: 1. Olovnikov AM. Principle of marginotomy in template synthesis of polynucleotides. Doklady Akademii nauk SSSR. 1971; 201(6):1496-9. Watson, J. D. Origin of concatemeric T7 DNA. Nat New Biol. 1972; 239(94):197-201.

2. Jiang, X.-R. et al. Telomerase expression in human somatic cells does not induce changes associated with a transformed phenotype. Nature Genet., 21, 111-114 (1999); Morales, C.P., et. al. Absence of cancer-associated changes in human fibroblasts immortalized with telomerase. Nature Genet., 21, 115-118 (1999); Harley, C. B. Telomerase is not an oncogene. Oncogene 21(4): 494502 (2002).

3 Bodnar, et al. Extension of life-span by introduction of telomerase into normal human cells. Science, 1998.

4. Funk, et al. Telomerase Expression Restores Dermal Integrity to in VitroAged Fibroblasts in a Reconstituted Skin Model. Experimental Cell Research, 2000 5. Tomas, et al. Telomerase Reverse Transcriptase Delays Aging in CancerResistant Mice. Cell, 2008.

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APJ 74

work smarter not harder.

This advanced technology is set to redefine and create a new

Five levels of diamond peeling ing

standard and comfort in microdermabrasion services. The unique

7 Jet delivery technology combined with its patented hand piece, delivers liquid cooled diamond peeling, AQUAFUSE hydrodermabrasion, vacuum

New AQUA FUSE USE product system m

stimulation, and complete product infusion.

Exclusive distributor Body Clinic (Australia) Ph : (07) 3821 2830

SPOTLIGHT ON PRODUCTS

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PERFECT TOUCH CONCEALER

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Medihoney™ – for sensitive, dry, problem skin ㈵

Comvita's Medihoney™ skincare range contains Medihoney™ Antibacterial Manuka honey, a standardised medical grade Manuka honey from New Zealand. The Medihoney™ body range has the ability to boost the natural barrier properties by rehydrating, moisturising and gently replenishing the skin. This is a natural skincare alternative free from petrolatum, mineral oils, parabens, sodium lauryl sulphate, synthetic colours or fragrances.

The range includes: Medihoney™ G e n t l e B o d y Wa s h , Medihoney™ Gentle Body Lotion, Medihoney™ Barrier Cream and Medihoney™ Eczema Cream.

For further enquiries and to stock Comvita Medihoney™ contact Comvita on 1800 466 392 or see www.comvita.com.au

SKEYNDOR CAVITATION ANTI-CELLULITE CREAM SCOOPS EUROPEAN HONOURS

In the April issue of Cleo Magazine Natural Compatibles’ Perfect Touch Concealer was listed as one of the over achieving beauty products that goes above and beyond their job description.

One of their Beauty Blog comments received was: “I've used and loved YSL and Bobbi Brown concealers, but my new favourite is NC Perfect Touch. The staying power is amazing (think all day), and the creamy formula blends really well into the skin. I use it on blemishes and under eye circles and makeup artists love using it on the darkness around your nostrils to freshen the face and take years off. Try it, it really does work.”

N a t u r a l Compatibles’ unique Perfect Touch Concealer comes is five shades Tan, Beige, Ivory, Natural and a clever Anti-Red shade, which counteracts redness in the skin. No mess, easy to use and covers like a foundation. The soft sponge applicator is great for those delicate areas. Phone Natural Compatibles 1800

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636 077 or 03 9764 0966 for further details.

One of Europe's most influential Beauty, Health and Wellness titles, SABER VIVER recently honoured the SKEYNDOR Cavitation Anti-Cellulite Cream as “Best Slimming Product 2011”. The scientific jury and prestigious panel of national judging experts come from across many fields including Dermatology, Cosmetic Surgery and Fashion.

The SKEYNDOR Cavitation Anti-Cellulite Cream is specifically formulated to address resistant cellulite, dramatically improving the orange peel appearance and ensuring a more svelte body contour. It features a unique anti-cellulite complex containing Glaucium Flavum Extract, which works to break down the fibres that constrict fat. The Cream assists in dissolving lipids stored in the fat cells and aids their elimination. Caffeine and Carnitine also assists in the break down of fat cells, while Goldenrod assists in tightening the skin's appearance for a more svelte contour.

For more information on SKEYNDOR products please contact Vogue Image Group on 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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JOYCE BLOK launches 10-Day Intensive Concentrate Solutions to instantly boost skin Joyce Blok Natural Skin Care has just launched five SPECIALISED INTENSIVE SERUMS to address a variety of skin concerns with results. The new 10-Day Solution beauty concentrates provides a powerful and revitalising boost and offer an intensive 10 day program to assist the skin to adapt to the changing seasons. A perfect treatment for spring and summer. Specifically designed to treat various skin types and concerns, there are five different concentrates available within the range, which have been created to help rejuvenate replenish, purify, soothe and revive dull, devitalised or stressed complexions. Packed with nutrients such as orris root extract, azulene, vitamins, soluble marine elastin, marine collagen and glycosaminoglycans these intensive concentrates deliver amazing results. For further details contact Complete Beauty

& Nail Supplies on 1300 665 003 or info@completebeauty.com.au

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APJ 76

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Micro-Exfoliating Honey Cleanser Face and body cleansers are needed as part of an essential daily routine.

Knowing the virtues of honey Dr Pugliese has now released a wonderful product to replenish the skin's natural lipids, while giving it a thorough cleanse. Circadia's MicroExfoliating Honey Cleanser also contains tiny patented beads of pure beeswax to absorb oil and environment toxins, while replenishing the skin's natural lipid layer. With a fresh natural fragrance Micro-Exfoliating Honey Cleanser is a wonderful retail product to promote to your clients. For further

information on Circadia products phone 1800 247 223.

Increase your revenue with a brighter

SMILE

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Teeth whitening is one of the most popular and simplest cosmetic procedures if done correctly. Doing it right means using a quality lightening accelerator and the correct whitening gel (Hydrogen Peroxide). Distributors of the famous Australian Teeth Whitening System say they have the highest concentration and safest on the market, as well as the appropriate whitening accelerator, an LED lamp emitting cold blue light with a wavelength of around 465 nanometers. This wavelength is ideal for activating the hydrogen peroxide and accelerating the whitening process.

The Australian Teeth Whitening System is manufactured in America to a very high standard that meets with all regulatory requirements. It is now experiencing great success in Australia as salons can rest assured they will be introducing a safe and high-quality product to their clients that can offer them great results. (Testimonials available on request). This Australian Teeth Whitening package is valued at $5,313. Why not take advantage of this month's SPECIAL OFFER of $4,000 plus delivery. You can expect to earn from $3,030 to $5,430 just on the kits that will be provided with this exceptional Teeth Whitening Package. No more to pay, start earning straight away! For further details contact Anita Hunt Ph: 040 666 4117

A POWERFUL TOOL AGAINST AGEING SKIN Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) is an important transporter of energy in cells - it is 'youth' and it is 'life' to the cells. We know that ageing begins at a cellular level, which is innately dominated by ATP. Many factors related to the ageing process are all caused by the lack of ATP. The btCocktail™ Ultimate ATP Synthesis product is an inimitable 3-part system that has been proven to reduce the visible signs of ageing, reduce the appearance of enlarged pores and stimulate fibroblast activity.

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Available exclusively from Body Clinic (Australia) 07 3821 2830 www.bodyclinic.com.au

ADVANCED VitaMineral C COMPLEX Bioelements Advanced VitaMineral C Complex delivers a mega-burst of detoxifying antioxidants and age-fighters. This double dose of natural and cosmeceutical vitamin C intertwined with minerals, helps ward off unwanted toxins that cause dullness and the appearance of ageing. With daily use skin looks strikingly younger and more energised. Key ingredients include natural vitainc C extracted from Acerola cherry fruit, which contains 3000% more vitamin C than oranges, blended with cosmeceutical v i t a m i n C t o i m p r o v e s k i n c l a r i t y a n d v i t a l i t y.

Saccharomyces/Silicon, Magnesium, Copper, Iron, Zinc Ferments (detoxifying) as well as essential oils of Rosemary, Bergamot, Coriander and Clary Sage to improve cellular activity and rejuvenation.

Bioelements skincare products are available through ABSOLUTE SPA Ph: 1300 262 275 www.absolutespa. com.au

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or email anita@australianteethwhitening.com.au

APJ 77

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emerginC Protocell – serious anti-ageing formula with stem cells Protocell Combat Cream and Protocell Eye are scientifically proven, advanced skincare products that provide serious anti-ageing results for all skin types.

The protective cream and lightweight eye emulsion incorporate plant stem-cells skin technology. These stem-cells which have been carefully extracted from a rare type of organic Swiss apple, clinically proven to be rich in factors capable of protecting and enhancing the longevity and vitality of skin cells, therefore helping to recapture and preserve the skin's own youthfulness and radiance. Key ingredients include jojoba oil, cactus extract, hyaluronic acid, olive oil, argan oil, panthenol and green tea. Both products can be applied alone or over a serum or cream. The Protocell range is a serious replenishing and antiageing contender in the skincare race.

For further information regarding Protocell go to www.inskincosm edics.com

A powerful concentration of 100% pure bioactive retinol with superior stability and potency. This retinol concentrate uses the highest allowable concentration of retinol before a prescription. Its skin renewing benefits make it a first-class anti-ageing tool! The V8 peptide complex™ ensures skin is super hydrated and rejuvenated.

This product can be used every third day to begin with, giving your skin time to build up skin tolerance and avoid sensitisation and can then be gradually increased to every 1-2 days in the evening. This is five star anti-ageing skincare technology and perfect for skins lacking firmness and elasticity, with lines and wrinkles, photo damage and pigmentation. Key Ingredients include, V8 peptide complex™, Liquid Crystals, L-Sodium Hyaluronate, SkinRelief, Retinol, Niacinamide, Snap-8, Venuceane™ and D-Alpha Tocopherol.

O is a proudly owned and manufactured Australian Cosmedic brand. Made from the purest combination of medical grade ingredients and cosmetic science, blended harmoniously with nature.

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For further information regarding O Cosmedics go to www.inskincosmedics.com

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O Cosmedics Potent Retinol Serum This is a 100% pure bioactive retinol in micro-encapsulation technology that ensures superior stability and potency. This extraordinary vitamin A complex offers visible cosmetic antiageing benefits to dramatically reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It promotes a firmer more elastic skin texture and evens out skin tone. With V8 peptide complex™ this serum ensures skin is calm, super hydrated and renewed.

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For further information regarding O Cosmedics go to www.inskincosmedics.com

O Cosmedics Retinol Concentrate

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Add powerful antioxidant benefits to the skin, with POMEGRANATE Forget 10% pomegranate in a formulation, Essential Stuff, Australia's first natural pomegranate skincare have formulated a delicious range of skincare products with pomegranate extract being the most abundant ingredient. Fortified also with Olive, Rosehip and Avocado oils, Lecithin, Beta-carotene (vitamin A), vitamin C and a selection of incredible essential oils makes this skincare range a delightful experience to use with added anti-ageing benefits and super food for the skin. The product range includes Body, Butter, Hand Cream, Foot Balm and a gorgeous Body Wash. Prices start at $14.80 wholesale.

Introduce these products to your clients and enjoy rapid sales.

For further information phone Essential Stuff on 0427 070 364 and quote this ad for your wholesale price.

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APJ 78

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DEPILATION – Total Difference works like laser for permanent hair reduction

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The 2B Epil Xcel concept is a wonder product that is easy to use when you are looking for excellent results in achieving progressive permanent hair reduction. It works effectively on all hair pigments, including blonde and white hairs. 2B Epil Xcel should be used directly after waxing, electrolysis, laser and even shaving. Results in hair reduction can be achieved in as little as four to five treatments. Getting rid of superfluous hair is now even easier. Phone Patou Aesthetics Distribution on 07 4057

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8365 or 0419 665 383.

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GIFT VOUCHERS with a difference Beautifully presented Gift Vouchers are very much part of the attraction to lure someone to choose your services as a gift, over something else. But printing high quality gift vouchers can be quite expensive. APAN has developed a wonderful solution to this problem. They have designed two very different Gift Vouchers with provision of all the necessary information you need to include on the back of the Vouchers. All you need to do is place your salon address and contact details. These cards are colourful and attractively presented with a cello-glaze finish that make them very appealing. In fact, they can replace a card. You can purchase as little as 50 cards for just $40.

Also on offer are two Christmas Gift Vouchers. Uniquely seasonal they will help increase your sales of Gift Vouchers. And there is more. If you check the APAN website you will find 13 different designs and topics to choose from including Thank You Cards, Happy Birthday and special cards designed for Promotional events and reaching out to clients who have not visited you for some time.

SPECIAL OFFER: Purchase 150 of one design or a mixture of Gift Voucher or Post Cards of your choice for the special price of $88 and we will send them to you FREIGHT FREE. Contact APAN on 07 55930360 or email info@apanetwork.com with your choice

A Powerful Duo for skin detoxification and rejuvenation ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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2B Bio Serum 02 and 2B Bio Cocoon Moisturiser combine powerful botanicals to impart skin oxygenation through highly concentrated quality active compounds that have been scientifically-proven to optimise skin oxygenation, while defending it against environmental pollution.

The synergistic effect of these two products also strengthens the hydrolipid barrier and boosts cell metabolism. You will also experience improved hydration levels and plumped-up skin, minimising the appearance of lines and wrinkles. These superior products support the skin's defence and significantly enhance its youthful appearance. For

further details contact Patou Aesthetics Ph: 07 4057 8365, 0419 665 383 email: patriciamangano@hotmail.com

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APJ 79

keyingredient ㄰

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The skin elixir – ROSEHIP OIL In an era of high-tech skincare formulation, nanotechnology and transdermal delivery systems, is there still room for natural ingredients when it comes to stubborn skin conditions or anti-ageing results?

Every now and then Nature creates her own synergistic formula through the combination of potent botanical chemical constituents that can rival man-made formulas. One of these is Rosa Mosqueta, or commonly known as Rosehip oil.

Prolific in South America, this oil is simply cold pressed extracted from the rosehip buds. New research now is identifying the reasons why it is so beneficial for the skin and why it is such an effective skin hydrating and skin renewal ingredient.

The positive action of rosehip oil in helping to regenerate damaged skin tissues is due to its content of Trans-Retinoic Acids in a natural state as part of a complex system of unsaturated essential fatty acids.

Therefore, its action is controlled and slowly released by nature, eliminating the risk of overdoses. For the same reason it has no side effects unlike other products containing trans-retinoic acids synthesised in the laboratory.

Scientific evidence has demonstrated the properties of rosehip oil in reducing surgical and accidental dermal scars, the elimination of certain hyper- pigmented spots and the lessening of wrinkles. ㄰

RESEARCH FINDINGS 㤵 㜵

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In December 1988 two doctors published their findings in a paper titled Contributions to Identification and Application of Active Components Contained in Rosa Aff. Rubiginosa. The authors were Dr Bertha Pareja, Principal Professor, Faculty of Pharmacology and Biochemistry, University of San Marcos, Lima, Peru, and Dr Horst KehI, from the School of Pharmacology of the University of Missouri, Kansas City, Missouri, USA. Dr KehI took part in the effort in his capacity of Visiting Professor at the San Marcos University.

The positive action of rosehip oil in helping to regenerate damaged skin tissues was originally attributed to its high content of unsaturated essential fatty acids, namely oleic (15-20%), linoleic (44-50%) and linolenic (30-35%). They are called “essential” because our body is not able to reproduce them.

Although these acids are important in maintaining a healthy skin also when taken internally, there was insufficient scientific evidence established that “Rosa Mosqueta” could reduce surgical and accidental dermal scars or eliminate dermal scars, certain hyper-pigmenatation spots or lessen wrinkles. For this reason further research was conducted.

TRANS-RETINOIC ACID Dr. Berta Pareja and Dr. Horst Kehl successfully identified the presence of Trans-Retinoic acid as the component responsible for the remarkable pharmacological properties of rosehip oil. Trans-Retinoic acid is a derivative of Retinol (Vitamin A) and is marked as Tretinoin.

The therapeutic effects of the topical application of Tretinoin, in the treatment of a variety of dermatology disorders, have been well researched and recognised for almost 30 years. The most significant results have been produced in the treatment of photo-aged skin.

Tretinoin can produce quick and positive changes in the skin, but because it is a very strong substance, it must be applied under medical supervision.

Rosehip oil, with its high natural content of trans-retinoic acid, offers skin benefit because of the presence of Tretinoin, but without secondary side effects, because the Trans-Retinoic Acid contained in it is in a natural state as part of a complex system of unsaturated fatty acids. Therefore, its action is controlled and slowly released by nature,

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APJ 80

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improved significantly.

These observations were carried out for a further four months after the operations and t h e m e d i c a l practitioners indicated that the skin conditions were improving considerably, allowing implantation of prosthesis or plastic surgery in far better conditions than with patients who had not been treated.

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eliminating the risk of overdoses. The findings of Dr Pareja and Dr Kehl have helped to validate the value of rosehip oil and these findings have given a greater understanding of benefit of its use in clinical and aesthetic practices.

The following paragraphs are extracts from tests conducted by Dr Pareja and Dr Kehl.

ROSE HIP OIL APPLICATION ON PHOTO-AGEING SKIN Changes produced on skin by the action of the sun, i.e., photoageing (dermatoheliosis), are very common in all countries with a warm climate. Exposure to sun causes critical morphological changes in skin. Dermatoheliosis appears in different ways and varying intensity, ranging from surface wrinkles, active keratosis and variation in the distribution of the melanin granules.

For this test volunteers were selected among people who usually spend the three months of summer in resorts by the sea or who go to the beach every day. The tests were carried out on 20 women aged between 25 and 35 who were controlled and assessed during the summer of 1988. The most frequently noted cutaneous signs were surface wrinkles on face and eyelids, brown spots, and, in some cases, an intense tan. All applied rosehip oil on the face during four months (May to August, Autumn 1988).

Observations were made every eight days. Significant changes were noted starting on the third week. First, surface wrinkles started to disappear, spots started to fade until, at the end of the fourth month, the disappearance was almost complete. Skin presented a smooth and fresh aspect and the spots had almost disappeared.

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ROSEHIP OIL APPLICATION ON SURGICAL SCARS For this test they used scars that had equal features. Ten women, aged between 45 and 68, were selected who had suffered unilateral or bilateral mastectomy.

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Applications of rosehip oil were made, starting on the day when the surgical stitches were removed. After washing the area with tepid water and soap and careful drying, the oil was applied by soft massage to the scars. After three months of applying twice daily (morning and evening) it was noted that the scars were less apparent, without lumps, the skin elasticity had improved and the colour of the area had

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Scars are a permanent visible reminder of a significant event in a person's life and can be a reminder of an unhappy or bad experience.

Although there are many different techniques to lessen the visibility of scar tissues, including cosmetic surgery, pressure garments, the use of locally injected steroids and silicone gel sheets, rosehip oil offers a simple, inexpensive, non-invasive alternative for greatly diminishing disfiguring scars.

ROSEHIP IN AESTHETIC CARE Scars: Rosehip oil for the treatment of face or body scar tissue has experienced immense success and is highly recommended. With regular use you can expect to see a softening of the scars, less prominent, and continued daily used should be recommended.

Dehydrated skin: Dry and dehydrated skin can also benefit from rosehip oil gaining deep moisturising while the skin will also be replenished with a nutritive lipid barrier rich in vitamin A in the form of natural bio-available trans-retinoic acid.

Mature ageing skin: Rosehip oil is also indicated to revitalise mature ageing skin due to this its high content of Vitamin-A and its healthy polyunsaturated fatty acids. They are important components of the cell's membrane and precursors of prostaglandine/leucotriens, a hormone-like activity, which provides tissue-regenerating and rejuvenating effects. Rosehip oil replenishes the lipid skin barrier, reduces facial wrinkles and lines, moisturises and soothes sundamaged skin.

Photo-ageing: Characterised by wrinkled, yellowed, lax, rough, leathery, inelastic and/or coarse skin with spotted hyper or hypopigmentation. Rosehip oil is very effective in halting and even reversing the effects produced by the sun on the skin. Significant changes should be noticed after the third week of continuous application. In extreme cases of photo-ageing a more generous application should be used at night and during the day. It may take four months or more for the total fading of superficial wrinkles and significant dissipation of hyper-pigmented spots.

While products containing rosehip oil are also readily available, for the best results use pure, unadulterated, cold pressed and preferably organic rosehip oil.

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APJ 81

children’scharity ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Give your life PURPOSE Whether you are a business or an employee, it's worthwhile to know that your life has purpose and that you are contributing to make this world a better place.

One way to achieve this is through the pursuit of saving a life. The Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network invites industry businesses and professionals to a wonderful charity that is dedicated to the support of individuals and families that are suffering from poverty or abuse.

5TM Ltd is a registered Charity for the purpose of giving much needed aid to children in foreign countries. They are a not-forprofit organisation that carries ITEC (income tax exemption) and DGR endorsement by the Australian Taxation Office.

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5TM Rescuing children from hunger and suffering

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Be part of a greater cause through a tax deductible gift.

Why support 5TM? When you give money to a charity you want to know that your contribution has gone to a good cause and not absorbed by administration costs and advertising expenses. With many charities often only 20-30% of what you donate actually goes to the cause. We chose to support 5TM because it ensures you that all administration work is conducted voluntarily so you can be assured that at least 90% of your money will go towards saving a child's life or feeding a child plagued by poverty.

5TM as a charity is involved with several registered projects such as the Crisis Help J166.1. This is a specialty area within 5TM to help those in Third World countries in crisis, be it medical or other needs that require help almost instantly. We can be required to assist by getting a child out of a crisis situation, getting them to hospital or meeting the cost of burying them should they not survive. This brings dignity and can often stop the cycle of deep poverty.

Another project is Pune Maharashtra India J166.2. There are hundreds of children who have made an incredible transformation over a period of four months that were salvaged from the brink of death.

However, they are desperately in need of help for on-going food supplies, medical supplies, water and shelter. These children have either been dumped or sold by their parents, who simply can't afford to keep and feed them. They have no home. Often they are in danger of having to become local prostitutes. These children suffer from many medical conditions, including HIV/AIDS, malaria, water-borne diseases or STDs. Specific child sponsorship is available.

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To assist in this project 5TM is aiming to raise $10,000 through their "Coin of Life" campaign. $10,000 for on-going relief per year is needed. However, a full-time program also requires an initial cost of $10,000 to build a very basic infrastructure and to supply medical needs. If you can help please do so. You can either offer a once only tax deductible donation or sponsor a child through an individual child sponsorship program, with photo and correspondence from the child to the sponsor. This project is as little as $30 per month.

5TM Invites you to SPONSOR A CHILD or Support a Community in the fight against POVERTY and ABUSE 5TM Ltd is a registered Charity for the purposes of giving much needed aid to children in foreign countries. They are a non-profit organisation that carries ITEC (income tax exemption) and DGR endorsement by the Australian Taxation Office. ㄰

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Alternatively you can request a "Coin of Life" Tin to include in your business. This is also a very effective way of raising funds within your business. It is not uncommon to raise $50-60 in this way. It all helps and you can be part of a greater cause.

invitation to all our members and readers to consider supporting such a worthwhile charity. This contribution can be deducted from your tax. It makes sense to choose to benefit others through a lifesaving cause. Your compassion and support can make a difference.

APAN directors are on the Board of 5TM and we can personally vouch for the integrity of this charity. We therefore would like to extend an

If you would like to choose a 5TM Project to support or for further details email info@5tm.org or phone Margaret MacNamarra on 0408 701 740 to discuss options. You can also visit www.5tm.org

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APJ 82

Suncorp Bank EFTPOS payment solutions industry offer for APAN Members Why choose Suncorp Bank EFTPOS? The easier you make it for your customers to pay you, the better. That’s why Suncorp Bank has developed a range of payment solutions that make it easier than ever for your customers to do business with you.

Best of all with Suncorp EFTPOS you’ll get: • Daily settlement, 7 days a week, which means you can use your cash the next day*. Plus, your money can work harder by earning interest sooner.

• Blended rate for Visa/Master Card.

• Free stationery.

Contract Term:

4 year contract

Account Start Up Fee:

Waived

Annual Membership Fee: $20.00 Terminal Rental Fee:

Countertop - $12.00 or Mobile - $26.00 per month

Merchant Service Fee:

0.79%

Debit Card Fee:

$0.10c

Minimum Monthly Fee:

$20.00

Contract Break Fee:

$350.00

Call our authorised Suncorp Bank representative Ken Hussey on 1300 791 114 or email sales@eftposmerchantservices.com.au Payment facilities are issued by Suncorp-Metway LTD ABN 66 010 831 722. To approved applicants. Terms and conditions apply and are available on request. Additional fees may apply. Fees are current as at 13th May 2011 and are subject to change without notice. All rates quoted are GST exclusive. *Same day settlement where the proceeds of card sales are credited to a Suncorp Business account on the same day for transactions processed before 6.30pm, seven days a week (AEST).

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WHAT IS ORGANIC? Organic means different things to different people and in its more traditional meaning indicates being of animal and vegetable origin, while in a scientific sense organic refers to the chemistry of carbon and its molecules, which constitutes all living matter, animal and vegetable. Organic chemistry is one of the major branches of chemistry that has contributed to our understanding of life, modern medicine and that affects almost every facet of our modern lives, from DNA technologies to plastic, paints and polymers.

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An additional and relatively new definition of the word 'Organic” as it applies to food has its origins in the concept of organic farming. That is, farming without the use of pesticides, herbicides and environmentally unacceptable chemicals and practices. In this sense “organic” by definition can only apply to agricultural products grown in accordance with these broadly based farming principles. To the average consumer this latter definition is likely to be their only understanding of the word.

USING THE TERM ORGANIC The use of the term organic to promote agricultural products has been extremely controversial over the past few decades and has been prone to considerable fraudulent activity. A variety of industrybased and private organisations have evolved worldwide, which have introduced voluntary standards in an attempt to improve both the credibility of the industry and protect the organic farming industry from fraudulent activities. All “organic” standards and certification systems worldwide have been spawned from the organic-farming agricultural sector.

Organic Cosmetics — A Report on Behind the Scene's Activities on Certification

by Derio Comar BSc (Hons), FRACI, AAIFST, MASM

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The word “organic” is a widely used and abused label claim for foods and agricultural produce. In recent years it has become an increasingly common label claim on cosmetics.

To some consumers the word organic conjures up a mystical purity associated with these products. However, few consumers understand the significance of the claim and the degree of marketing manipulation that occurs with the use of such terms.

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It is an emotive word and thus its marketing power has been fought over by commercial interests attempting to regulate its use.

Governments have generally remained out of this area, and where involvement has occurred it has been as a consequence of industry pressure and the need to protect consumers from fraudulent claims.

In some countries the labelling of agricultural products with the term “organic” is now regulated, despite the almost impossible task of policing or verifying the organic origin of a product. There are no laboratory-based tests that can prove that a vegetable or fruit has been organically farmed. As one would expect it opens the door to any number of fraudulent scams.

The food industry could only protect its credibility by developing accreditation systems whereby producers are inspected on a regular basis to ensure that their farming practices comply with the principles of organic farming. Thus the birth of the organic certification process

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for agricultural products. In the USA the USDA has introduced regulations and oversees the certification industry. However, industry groups or private organisations almost exclusively undertake the certification of the farms and producers.

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In Australia, as is the case in many countries, there are no regulations overseeing the labelling of agricultural products as organic. An Australian Standard AS 6000 was released in 2009, but this does not form part of any general regulations. The Australian Quarantine and Inspection Service (AQIS) does require companies exporting agricultural products from Australia to undergo certification in accordance with their guidelines if they claim the product as being organic. The certification is undertaken by privately owned and privately controlled organisations. For the domestic market the system is not legislated and is totally voluntary.

THE GLOBAL POSITION On both a global and a national level there are significant differences and discrepancies between the standards that the various organisations utilise for the purpose of certification. There is yet to be developed a harmonised standard not only at a national level, but one that has broad international recognition. These organisations that are currently certifying organic products or skincare are privately owned businesses and compete vigorously for the business of potential clients needing to be certified. Furthermore, in most countries these organisations have expanded their businesses to seek opportunities for certification outside of the traditional organic farming market. This has included cosmetics.

HOW DO COSMETICS FIT INTO THIS MODEL, WHICH HAD ITS BEGINNINGS IN ORGANIC FARMING? Organic claims associated with cosmetics are a totally marketingdriven concept. Like all marketing-driven concepts it has significant financial backing and is driven by the same organisations that certified organic foods. It has opened a new market for such organisations. It represents a new and lucrative market for this industry. Some organisations have linked the organic certification of cosmetics to that

of the “Eco friendly” concept. None of this is Government driven and no regulations exist in respect of organic claims for cosmetics. The concept of organic cosmetics is not regulated in any country or market of significance. Despite this, the misconceptions in the marketplace and among consumers are alarming. These privately owned companies continue to call their cosmetic certification systems “standards”, but whose standards?

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This new certification industry has had to adapt organic-farming concepts and develop a range of additional criteria by which cosmetics could be certified. They have invented a completely new definition of “organic”, which is significantly different to that of organic food. Unfortunately, this “new organic” has not been widely explained to consumers who are still stuck on the food “organic”.

Furthermore the cosmetics organic certification is fraught with so many technical difficulties that there are differences between what each of these organisations deem to be an organic cosmetic.

Consumers are totally oblivious to the machinations behind the scenes and the fierce competition between these organisations to dominate this market sector. The organic cosmetic certification “standards” have been a moving target for those seeking certification with consumers being none the wiser.

Cosmetic ingredients, unlike food ingredients, do not all have their origin in agriculture or farming. If this were the case, then organic cosmetics would be edible like the food counterpart. A majority of cosmetic ingredients do not fit the organic model set by food.

Cosmetics contain a range of ingredients that are not of agricultural origin, the examples below being a very short list: ! Minerals (powders and colours) ! Kaolin ! Salt (including sea salts) ! Clays and muds ! Inorganic acids for pH adjustment ! Inorganic caustic for saponification (soap) ! Solvents and pigments ! Waxes and oils ! Water (the most significant ingredient)

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Furthermore, cosmetics need to be preserved for safety. A wide range of preservatives is used to prevent microbiological contamination. To this very day there has been no satisfactory “organic” preservative developed that even closely complies with the concept of organic farming. Most consumers would expect that organic food should not contain preservatives. This, however, is not possible for cosmetics.

Current preservatives do not have an “organic” origin.

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The organisations attempting to offer certification services to the cosmetic industry have consistently been unable to agree on a unified approach to these issues. The standards that apply are significantly distant from the concept of organic food.

This includes a list of allowable preservatives, allowable chemical processes, the use of solvents, etc, but based on whose judgement?

They have moulded these standards to allow the practical manufacture of cosmetics. They have bent the food “organic” rules to suit the industry from which they are seeking to make a living. Thus allowing the industry to collectively dupe consumers with the “organic” claim.

Governments have not intervened because they perceive that there is no public health issue.

In the USA the USDA, which regulates organic foods, has agreed to extend their standard to cosmetics. However, they have no regulatory jurisdiction over cosmetics and thus this only extends to the use of the

food USDA organic logo if the cosmetic meets their agricultural standard. To their credit they have not altered the agricultural farming standard to try and fit cosmetics. Therefore if a cosmetic is made up exclusively of agricultural ingredients it can qualify as organic if the ingredients qualify as organic.

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THE COSMOS BANNER AND WHAT IT STANDS FOR In Europe, on the other hand, six of the major privately owned certification companies entered into an agreement to produce a unified standard for organic cosmetics under the banner of “Cosmos”.

This agreed standard is an attempt to remove all the discrepancies between the certification organisations and allow the cosmetic industry numerous products and processes that would not normally fall under the organic agricultural standards. As a unified standard it will also make it easier for the certification industry to subsequently seek Government support for legislation.

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The resulting standard is a farcical gimmick to allow cosmetics to become certified as organic, with minimal public or social merit. It allows products with as little as 20% organic content to be labelled organic. In the case of rinse-off products at least 10% of the total product must be organic. Some ingredients are allowed simply because there are no “organic” equivalents available.

In one example cited by the Cosmos standard a product containing 10% dehydrated organic vegetable can add back the weight of the water prior to rehydration and thus recalculate the organic content and claim that the product is 50% organic. The reality is that 90% of the ingredients are not organic by definition.

These types of calculations have little real meaning and almost certainly are not understood by the average consumers.

WHAT WILL ORGANIC MEAN IN YEARS TO COME? Thus rather than educate consumers in what is and what is not organic the consumer will be buying a product labelled organic with a predominantly non-organic content determined by some totally artificial criteria.

With intense marketing pressure what will “organic” mean in years to come? Maybe it is just too hard to tell consumers that zinc oxide sadly for consumers will never ever be “organic”. It's “inorganic”.

There are numerous cosmetic ingredients that come from the agricultural sector. Such products can and should legitimately carry the label organic if they have been produced by organic farming principles. If a whole cosmetic is made up of such ingredients then it to should be capable of carrying the organic label. The trend to redefine organic is likely to undermine products that are of genuine agricultural origin and comply with the principles of organic farming.

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A cosmetic that uses some organic ingredients should not masquerade as being totally organic if it has a significant inorganic content just to satisfy a marketing need to manipulate consumers.

Furthermore, the rules should not be altered to

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allow ingredients that are not of vegetable origin to be included and still call the whole product organic.

industries, of its 70 pages one page is dedicated to cosmetics and skincare.

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Some of the new organic standards for cosmetics have bent the rules to a point where consumers are being sold a new “organic” definition without their knowledge.

Most consumers would be horrified to read the list of permitted chemicals in these standards that can be incorporated into products labelled organic. For the more technically knowledgeable consumers the list of permitted chemical processes by which ingredients can be chemically modified makes fine reading. This is not to suggest that these permitted chemicals or processes are injurious to health or toxic, they are simply not organic. In one key standard chemicals with a petrochemical component are allowed in the absence of an organic equivalent, and up until recently in another standard parabens were allowed to end up in a finished product via ingredients preserved with parabens. A devious way to add a non-permitted preservative indirectly. Consumers have been none the wiser for many years while buying these organic-labelled products. The meaning of organic with these certification standards is only truly understood by the organisations selling the certification and the companies wishing to promote their products with these labels. Why is it that a chemically reacted and modified agricultural ingredient can be called organic?

But more importantly, Why? Unfortunately, the consumer does not have the opportunity to read the fine print of these so-called standards.

In Australia the introduction of an organic standard for cosmetics has been somewhat controversial. In 2009 Standards Australia launched the new standard, AS 6000, for organic and biodynamic products.

Although this standard was aimed at the food and agricultural

It is quite remarkable that a committee of people that sets out to develop an organic food standard has produced just one page to AS 6000 on the subject of cosmetics that is outside the expertise of the committee.

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The cosmetic industry, in particular the cosmetic scientists, were not represented on this committee. This in itself is a highly questionable process coming from such an organisation as Standards Australia. Are people and organisations from the food industry also invited to develop electrical and engineering standards? The one-page contribution made up of 13 sentences clearly demonstrates how little this group knows about cosmetic science, cosmetic chemistry and formulation processes. In a global sense, based on developments elsewhere it is an embarrassment. Anyone interested enough to look at the make-up of the committee published in AS 6000 would clearly question why this group is attempting to deal with cosmetics.

However, the plot thickens. In addition to the amendments made to AS6000 in February 2011, the FT032 committee has been reconvened and will be working on a range of issues and amendments. A timeline of two years has been placed on this review of the current standard.

The new FT032 committee now has a few new members and some representation from the cosmetic industry, although hardly adequate for such a task if they were serious about cosmetics. The zealotry and arrogance of these organic food representatives to dictate their views to another industry and across scientific disciplines is something that long term will do little for the reputation of Standards Australia.

But there is more. Standards Australia has established a separate committee to deal with the organic and natural cosmetic issues. One

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trusts that this committee will be well represented by cosmetic industry expertise.

complete loss of confidence in this type of certification and like all marketing fads will pass on and fade in our memories.

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There will now be two committees looking after organic cosmetics in Australia. Probably no sillier than six different standards in Europe and the recent attempts to produce one unified standard. The competition is severe when vested interests are at stake.

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The cosmetic industry in Australia unfortunately is not a cohesive group that is sufficiently well coordinated to adequately represent its interests. No particular organisation could be said to adequately represent the cosmetic industry. It is a key reason why such a situation was even able to develop.

The cosmetic industry should, however, take these developments very seriously and lobby Standards Australia to direct FT032 to stick to food products. The ASCC (Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists) should also make representations on these matters. The farcical errors of the European “standards” should not be repeated here.

The sad aspect is that the benefits of this to the cosmetic consumer are utterly negligible. The proposed standards do not address product safety, efficacy, stability and use-by-date, microbial contamination, allergen control or manufacturing standards. Be assured that organic does not mean safe. Just contemplate the organic sprouts that recently killed some 40 people in Europe.

The concept of organic has become commercialised and the term has been distorted for marketing reasons to fit the reality that cosmetics are not all made up of agricultural products. When consumer awareness of these standards becomes more widespread there will be a

Derio Comar is a Consultant in industrial chemistry and microbiology for over 40 years with experience in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, antimicrobial, water and food industries and a wide range of industrial applications.

Expertise in scientific management, technical audits of laboratory practice, technical project management, quality assurance to code of GMP, training, contamination control, industrial application of biocides and sterilisation processes, environmental monitoring and assessment. He is currently the Senior Scientific Consultant with Silliker Australia.

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WHO IS SILLIKER? Silliker Australia is Australia's leading analytical laboratory and technical consultancy servicing the Food and Beverage, Therapeutic Goods and Medical Devices, Antimicrobial and Household Products, Cosmetic, Water and Environmental Industries. Founded in 1985, with offices and laboratories in Melbourne, Sydney and Perth, Silliker Australia joined the Silliker World Network of Laboratories based in Chicago, USA as of June 30, 2000. Currently Silliker has over 45 laboratories in 16 countries dedicated to providing Research, Consulting, Testing, Auditing and Training Services, assuring product quality, safety and nutrition from development to delivery.

See page 87 for further details on Silliker

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Cosmoprof Asia 2011

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Heading for another successful year

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The 16th edition of Cosmoprof Asia, scheduled from 9 to 11 November, 2011 in Hong Kong, promises to be the largest ever, surpassing even the record 1633 exhibitors and 45,104 visitors (which was a 10% increase over the previous year) in 2010.

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Cosmoprof Asia, founded in 1996, was the first Cosmoprof event held outside of Europe, and a skilful blend of beauty, business, education and trends over the past 15 years has transformed it into the most important networking platform for leaders of the beauty industry in Asia. The presence of first-time exhibitors and returning industry veterans underlines the importance of the show to their business development and the growing cosmetic market in Asia.

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More than 80% of the exhibition space has already been booked for the 2011 edition of Cosmoprof Asia, and pre-registration for visitors, which opened on 1st April, has already exceeded the total number received up to July last year (for the 2010 show) in a few short weeks.

Cosmoprof Asia 2011 will occupy all the halls of the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. Its international appeal will once again attract delegates from many countries. The organisers have confirmed country pavilions from Australia, Belgium, Mainland China, France, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Poland, Singapore, South Africa, Spain, Switzerland, the Taiwan region, Thailand, UK and USA, with Pakistan and Turkey as the first-timers.

Entertainment and business with be the strengths of this year's event.

"On Hair" A long-awaited appointment where the most important hair stylists in the world will perform in the parterre of the event in Asia and where great emphasis will be given to all initiatives set up by exhibitors in the hair industry.

BOD Business or Dinner will offer an exclusive event for delegates of end products to connect with packaging leaders. A meeting time will be devoted to the packaging industry that will include the biggest companies in the world with the aim to consolidate relations between the operators in the specific sectors: spa, perfumery and cosmetics packaging. A private gathering will be staged to enable further business discussions between buyers and sellers after the show hours in a more relaxed environment.

Spa Soul The magnificent project dedicated to brand Spa will provide lounge exhibitions, live presentations and networking opportunities. Spotlight of the project will be the Spa Conference on 10th November featuring esteemed speakers in spa and wellness from around the world. Hotel managers and directors of destination spa, owners and operators of day Spa, Spa trainers, manufacturers and distributors will be invited to attend and discuss topical issues pertaining to the beauty industry in the current economic climate.

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NEW CLOSING TIME

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In response to the survey findings conducted among exhibitors and visitors, the opening hours for the next edition will be extended on the first two days of the event from 9.30am to a later close of 7.30pm.

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For further information visit www.cosmoprof-asia.com

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D HE IS BL TA ES

COSMOPROF ASIA 2011: NOVEMBER, 9TH - 11TH HONG KONG CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE

| BOLOGNA | HONG KONG | LAS VEGAS | ISTANBUL |

COSMOPROF-ASIA.COM

Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd Australian Pavilion Enquiries: Austrade - melbourne - australia - ph. +61.3.9648.3179 - fax +61.3.9648.3100 - leonie.smith@austrade.gov.au Marketing and Promotion: SoGeCos s.p.a. - milan - italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - sogecos@cosmoprof.com Sales Office Asia Pacific: UBM Asia Ltd - hong kong - ph. +852.2827.6211 - fax +852.3749.7345 - cosmasia-hk@ubm.com Sales Office Europe, The Americas, Africa and Middle East: Fairsystem International Exhibition Services s.p.a. - bologna - italy ph. + 39.051.282.848 - fax +39.051.282.895-896 - fairsystem@fairsystem.it Supported by:

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superfoods include them in topical applications as well as ingesting them. I realised there wasn't anything like Pure Inventions on the market as yet in Australia, and wanted to introduce them here. There is a lot of truth in the old adage "you are what you eat", and Pure Inventions is an easy way to improve that with what you drink!

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Foods that Beautify

Q2. How well is the product received and what results are you finding with its use?

Jai: We have been so surprised at how well the

products are being received, but even more so that our salon and spa clients have been doing so well retailing them on to their clients. I initially thought that spas would simply serve Pure Inventions as a replacement for their current tea offerings, as our glass decanters look so lovely in the spas. But it seems that clients have loved them so much that they are ordering them, and more importantly, reordering them. The fact that Pure Inventions can be served in a variety of ways means that clients also have variety in the way they enjoy them – hot, cool, icy or even in fizzy water.

In terms of results we have had clients report such benefits as: ! Their skin is clearer with less congestion ! Their complexion is brighter and more even ! They are sleeping better ! They are drinking much more water ! That they have fewer headaches and more energy ! They are losing weight.

Of course results vary, but we certainly have heard lots of positive things.

One of the new trends that we will be seeing a lot more of in coming years are drinks and food-based preparations to boost health and improve skin clarity and condition. However, you don't have to wait until the big wave hits. Pure Inventions, distributed in Australia by Absolute Spa, have launched these wonderful, nutritious drinkconcentrates with great success. Add a few drops to water and create your own powerful anti-oxidant drink that is delicious and nutritious.

Here we interview Jai Harvey-Yin, Director of Absolute Spa, to tell us more about this amazing product and how salons can benefit from it.

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Q1. Jai, the new boom in product formulations is the emphasis of "beauty from within". What gave you the insight to introduce Pure Inventions to the aesthetics industry?

Jai: Initially it was a purely personal decision. I have struggled with my own skin and weight issues over the years and I don't like to drink hot drinks. I am also very fussy with artificially tasting drinks as well.

So when I first saw Pure Inventions a few years ago, and tried them, I couldn't believe how nice they tasted – both hot and cold. I purchased and learnt more about how the range is able to help improve the skin from within, and I saw the results myself.

As a science nerd, I understand that antioxidants are needed to fight free radical damage, and for best results for your skin you need to

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Q3. Can you tell us what is included in the range and what is the most popular?

Jai: I often think what isn't in our range is more important than what is! We have no artificial ingredients at all, no caffeine, no carbohydrates, no calories, no gluten, no artificial sweeteners – all PURE!

THE RANGE WAS CREATED BY NUTRITIONISTS AND IS AVAILABLE IN THREE CATEGORIES: Green Tea Extracts – Original, Raspberry, Tropical These are good health in a glass – everyone knows that green tea is a powerful antioxidant, but with Pure Inventions' Green Tea extracts you get the equivalent antioxidant benefit of over 11 cups of standard green tea.

Signature Antioxidant Fruit Extracts

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Pomegranate & Acai Berry – This is our best seller and I call it our energy drink. Pomegranate is known to support your immune function and cardiovascular systems and Acai berry is known as the "Energy fruit" – together with Resveratrol this has amazing benefits for your skin and energy.

Blueberry & White Tea – I always say B is for brain and blueberries support memory, concentration and focus. Blueberries are already well accepted as the best-known sources of antioxidants.

White Tea is one of the most potent of all tea varieties in terms of antioxidant goodness, and works to help fight free radical damage, which may lead to premature ageing.

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Cranberry & Elderberry – Contains the whole cranberry, including the skin, natural fibre and seeds, so we get all the goodness!

Studies show that consuming cranberries may support urinary tract health, the digestive system and may promote healthy cholesterol. Elderberries may help boost immunity and reduce stress. Add this one and make your own Spa-Tini. Pure Inventions Cosmo anyone?

Fit + Slender – This is also one of our best sellers – it is a delicious natural herbal drink that helps to curb appetite naturally and helps to block the absorption of carbohydrates – recommended to be taken prior to meals three times a day.

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We are excited to be launching two new flavours very soon. We will let you know about these in the next issue of APJ.

Q4. How is the best way for a salon to market these to their clients?

Jai: We have found that the best way to market to clients is for staff to drink Pure Inventions themselves (as personal recommendation really helps). Also serving it in the salon or spa to your clients.

Introduce the "flavour of the day" serving in different manners eg. one day warm, next day icy, next day sparkling; serving with fruit adds visual appeal in the decanter. We have some great recipes for serving suggestions too. We have retail fliers that help with all the relevant information about the flavours above to give to clients.

For further details please contact Absolute Spa on 1300 262 275

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New Discoveries on the Therapeutic Properties of Manuka Honey Dr Ralf Schlothauer Honey has long been used as an ingredient in skincare, recognised for its ability to hold moisture to the skin, but research is now focusing on other more penetrative benefits.

From a nutritional point of view honey offers a cocktail of vitamins ranging from thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, vitamin B12 and biotin.

Along with minerals and amino acids, honey also contains a number of live enzymes that help promote optimal health. Although in small quantities it is the synergy of these nutrients that provide the body with health benefits.

All honey is medicinal to some extent, although Manuka honey has validated research on the compounds that render it superior. In recent years the distinct anti-bacterial properties of New Zealand's Manuka honey have attracted interest for wound dressing, and now Comvita, a company at the forefront of promoting its medical application, is exploring its anti-inflammatory actions. Calming skin to deter the ageing effects of free radical activity has now become a core skincare goal.

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One reason for the heightened interest in Manuka honey is that pharmaceutical antibiotics are proving increasingly powerless against certain microbes. In 2000, a World Health Organisation report warned: "Since 1970, no new classes of antibacterial drugs have been developed to combat infectious diseases." Today, according to many health organisations, nearly all significant bacterial infections in the world are becoming resistant to the most commonly prescribed antibiotic treatments. Hence the hope that a naturally occurring substance such as Manuka honey might help fill the void.

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At a recent meeting of the European Wound Management Association, researchers presented the results of a small Irish study

that compared the effects of Manuka honey and a commonly used hydrogen dressing on 100 patients with chronic leg ulcerations.

Those patients treated with Manuka dressings experienced a higher rate of cleansing and faster healing than those who used the hydrogen dressing. Ten of the patients had ulcers colonised with methicillinresitant staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). After four weeks seven of those 10 wounds no longer showed the bacteria's presence.

Comvita, which exports honey-based skincare among its other natural products, is collaborating with the University of Auckland to learn more about how Manuka honey works, with the aim of progressing from laboratory to skin tests.

Recently Dr Ralf Schlothauer, Chief Technology Officer and supervisor of the Comvita research team in New Zealand, was approached by APJ to share with us some of the recent discoveries on Manuka honey. Here we share with you the outcome of our interview.

Q1: I believe that research conducted by Comvita's team of scientists from the Institute of Innovation in Biotechnology at the University of Auckland has revealed that a specific blend of Manuka honey contains active compounds that help slow the signs of ageing. Can you tell us what are those compounds and how they support the body against the signs of ageing?

Dr Schlothauer: The active compound is phenolic acid, which is similar to tannin found in red wine. This is chemically related to Resveratrol, but it is still different. Our studies provide evidence that support that phenolic acid works by inhibiting the activity of a group of enzymes called MMPs (matrix metalloproteinases), which are capable of degrading collagen in the skin. These MMPs compromise the human immune system when inflammation is expressed.

We know that skin ageing is caused by both chronological ageing and photo-ageing. We also know that sun exposure up-regulates the MMPs that leads to a loss of collagen. You would understand that collagen is a critical provider of strength and resilience to the skin, so

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when it breaks down, skin loses its firmness and wrinkles are formed.

What phenolic acid does is to act as a direct inhibitor of MMPs by binding to these proteins and enzymes.

know that no bacterial can grow in honey, however, some yeasts may grow, so for wound-healing purposes it is filtered and sterilised. Also in skincare products it needs to be appropriately formulated.

Q2: Can you tell us what is unique about Manuka honey compared to other honey variations?

Dr. Schlothauer: For over 20 years the evidence pointed to the anti-

Comvita has two different ranges – the Comvita skincare ranges, which is sold in department stores through David Jones. This range has 5% Manuka honey. The second range is the MediHoney range, which is recommended for salon or clinic use as this is a stronger formulation that contains 30-40% Manuka honey. The higher concentration gives it the added benefit of anti-microbial and antiinflammatory properties as delivered by the phenolic acid.

microbial benefits of this honey. Initially, it was recognised for its positive effect on wound healing. It has often been proven effective even when pharmacological antibiotics have failed. Manuka has shown positive results against wound healing with specific challenging bacteria, such as methicillin-resitant staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). In recent times, however, other properties have been identified, not just its anti-microbial benefits, such as its antiinflammatory effects. These were noted when Manuka was used on wounds it also took away inflammation and pain, which were the secondary side effects to the infection.

Q3: When ingested, what benefits can Manuka honey provide the body, and is there a recommended dosage?

Dr. Schlothauer: Honey is not just sugar, there are a whole lot of other

applications that can benefit the body such as throat lozenges for sore throats. Our main research focus is now going to be on looking at the anti-inflammatory aspect of Manuka, particularly for the benefit of producing appropriate personal care products. For this, we have received a government grant to assist us.

different mechanisms and how they effect inflammation. We know that ageing skin typically has ongoing low-grade inflammation. The outcome of this is wrinkles, which are accelerated because of this underlying inflammation. Phenolic acid in Manuka honey has been shown to also provide anti-inflammatory properties. Minimising inflammation will assist the skin by supporting moisture retention, minimising dryness and helping preserve skin elasticity. As we age the skin becomes thinner because the elastosis material deteriorates. The high percentage of phenolic acid in Manuka honey can therefore benefit the skin through its anti-inflammatory process that has a direct link to ageing skin. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Q5. Can raw honey be used for topical application or does it require to be appropriately formulated for better penetration?

Dr. Schlothauer: As we know honey is very sticky, so it may not be practical to just use it from the jar. For skincare application it is required to undergo certain processes to make it skin friendly and practical to use. We

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Q6: What research are you currently working on and do you see Manuka honey gaining greater recognition and providing other health-benefit solutions?

Dr. Schlothauer: We are looking at investigating various other

Q4: In terms of skin, how can a formula that contains Manuka benefit the skin?

Dr. Schlothauer: We are currently further investigating Manuka's

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The MediHoney products are also excellent for compromised skin that is itchy or scaly such as eczema and dermatitis, and it is able to protect the skin from secondary infection. As Manuka honey is also acidic (usually has a pH of around 4-5 in a cream form) it will also restore the skin's pH balance, thus supporting its barrier function and immunity.

Other honey variations also have good properties, however, Manuka, because of its high phenolic acid content, is considered highly medicinal. The rule of thumb is if a honey is blonde it has no, or very low, levels of phenolic acid. Phenolic acid is dark and when present in a honey it will give it a dark colour.

nutrients that provide health benefits. Of course if you are diabetic or overweight you need to be cautious with the quantity you ingest.

While it can be used to sweeten tea or other drinks it can also benefit the body because of its anti-inflammatory properties. For example, 20mls can be taken on an empty stomach as an anti-inflammatory to support the stomach lining by coating the mucus membrane.

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Q7: Why is Manuka honey more expensive than regular honey?

Dr. Schlothauer: Manuka honey is processed very differently to ensure any bee contamination is removed. It undergoes strict filtration measures and sterilisation processes, which adds to its cost.

Furthermore, the demand for Manuka honey is growing and is much higher than the supply.

For further details on Comvita phone 1800 466 392 or visit www.comvita.com.au. Check out also information in SPOTLIGHT ON PRODUCTS. Dr Ralf Schlothauer, M. Tech, PhD (Bioprocess) Chief Technology Officer Dr Schlothauer joined Comvita in January 2006 as Chief Technology Officer and has overall strategic and functional responsibility for research and development, new product development, and regulatory affairs.

Dr Schlothauer supervises the Comvita research team that is co-located at the Institute of Innovation in Biotechnology at the University of Auckland.

He is originally from northern Germany where he earnt a masters of bioprocess engineering and a PhD in the same field. Dr Schlothauer has worked in New Zealand for extended periods with Massey University, New Zealand Dairy Research Institute (now part of Fonterra) and most recently at Tatua Nutritionals. In between assignments, Ralf was Group Manager – Probiotics for Danisco in Germany. Although working from an industrial base over the past 15 years he has kept a very active academic interest directly supervising internships, masters programs or PhDs with various universities over the years.

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WHERE TO NEXT FOR THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

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We already know that our training packages have been revised and implemented and we are all aware that the current business climate is tough. So how do you navigate your business through this transition? Where is the transition heading? These are very important questions we need to answer if we are to survive.

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Many businesses are already embracing the shift occurring in the industry by re-branding and relaunching as a new identity with a stronger customer support through credibility within the sectors they are forging into. For example, I know of one suburban salon that recently did this very thing! New name, new policy, fresh approach to beauty by upgrading to advanced aesthetics procedures, introduced new technologies and staff and out-sourced some services to complementary practitioners to build a new client base expanding the existing business. The results were amazing!

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Embracing a new business model — the New Vogue

by Jennifer Muldoon The aesthetics industry is experiencing some incredible changes that have created excitement for those who are moving in new directions. Many discerning businesses are revamping their business models to include modalities that incorporate the growing consumer interest in health and wellness and are attracting a new sector of the public as clients as well as enjoying invigorated business activity.

Jennifer Muldoon from Kindred Personnel Solutions, through her services to the industry as a recruitment and trainer of quality staff, has first-hand witnessed some of these transformations. Here she presents what is happening.

For the past 20 years as a practising therapist I have witnessed the many changes that have shaped and influenced the beauty industry.

When I began my working life as a junior Beauty Therapist the only positions available were either as a sub-tenant within a hairdressing salon or in a suburban beauty clinic. Look at us now!

Salons, Medispas, Dayspas, Paramedical Aesthetics, Cosmetic Physicians and Nurses, Cosmetic and Plastic Surgery Resorts where you can have a whole holiday planned around the procedures you have done and recuperate in five-star luxury!

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It astounds me that our industry has progressed so far in such a relatively short space of time. Salons branching into advanced aesthetic procedures using highly specialised and sophisticated technology and intelligent, results-driven cosmeceutical formulations.

Medispas with visiting Dermal Therapists or Cosmetic Physicians that can provide an extensive repertoire to the existing treatment menu. And Dayspas that are literally a one-stop shop for all of the traditional modalities of beauty therapy and natural health modalities, while all the while continuing to move into the more advanced procedures of the paramedical arena.

Increased interest from the general public, a reinvigorated staff as they are learning more advanced therapies, building relationships with other like-minded professionals and cross-referral networks. This new Medispa is now an award-winning business!

The possibilities are endless! The transition is being widely felt through the health and wellness sectors also and many are merging with the aesthetics industry and reaching out to the beauty community to forge a new type of health system – a completely holistic approach to beauty, health and wellness.

I urge all of you to think seriously about incorporating more variety and diversity into your businesses. Utilise the vast amount of highly experienced and educated practitioners in the Allied Health and Natural Therapies sectors. This can impact on you in a variety of ways: ! You can reduce the overall costs by sharing rent and overheads ! You can benefit from added clientele and referrals, and shared marketing ! You can provide a more holistic approach to your own businesses goals and philosophy.

Sourcing the right kind of practitioner for your business is now much easier. We can facilitate the correct placement with a variety of flexible options.

A dear friend of mine said to me, “The only thing in life that is constant is change!” I had to think about that for a minute and realised quite profoundly that he was indeed correct.

Our industry is changing. Business practices are changing. You have two choices – stand still and watch the industry move ahead without you or, embrace the changes with a renewed sense of energy and enthusiasm!

If you require assistance in this area please contact Jennifer Muldoon, Director and Principal Aesthetician.

Kindred Personnel Solutions Ph: 0407 638 649 www.kindredpersonnelsolutions.com

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parents and friends I took the first steps into what was a dream of mine for so long — to pursue study and a career in aesthetics.

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Q2. You love teaching, what technologies are you passionate about and why?

Julia: I love both learning and passing on what I know. I am very passionate

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about light. IPL is one of the wonders of modern technology. So versatile and magnificent and it can do so much more than meets the eye.

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Q3. What aspect of your work do you love the most?

Julia: A few weeks ago I got a call from a therapist I trained in IPL about two

member profile

years ago. She is currently working for a busy plastic surgery clinic in country Victoria. She said that she charges the highest dollars per procedure in the whole town and she said, “Thank you, Julia, for teaching me so well. You are the reason I can charge so much money and be so busy because people come to me for my skills, even though I am much more expensive that everyone else around here”. This is the most satisfying aspect of my work. To see that my training has allowed others to achieve a higher level of success.

Q4. Tell us about your family life and how you manage to juggle family and business?

Julia: I am very lucky to have a wonderful supportive husband and a very understanding, kind daughter. My daughter wants to “work the same as what mummy does” when she grows up so I try to involve her in some of the exciting aspects of the business. She visits often and sits at reception. She also has her own name badge with the clinic's logo. It is hard at times to juggle family and business. Some weeks business activities take over and it is compensated during the following weeks with extra time off work to spend with those close to me. But it is an ongoing battle and also an exciting one.

Q5. What is your favourite product right now?

Julia: My real passion and fascination is what can be achieved through We are delighted to continue profiling a different APAN member in each issue of APJ as this has been welcomed by many of you who have indicated your appreciation of this feature. It would appear that many of our readers enjoy learning about other colleagues to discover who they really are, as well as their views and opinions.

In this issue we profile Julia Grinberg. Julia owns a successful salon — Laser Skin & Wellness in Bentleigh Victoria. She is also well-known in the industry as a trainer, and in particular, she is recognised for her innovative methods in the effective use of IPL treatment protocols.

Q1. What led you into the beauty industry and when did you enter it?

Julia: As I was growing up, like many girls, I was fascinated ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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with make-up and skincare products. At 10 years of age I mixed up whatever I could find in the fridge and pantry (including spices) into creams and tried them for texture, smell and taste. When they smelt and felt nice enough I even risked and applied them on my skin. I wanted to get into the beauty industry when I was 16, when we came to Australia.

When my dad heard this, he said in his strong voice “You're going to university and getting a 'real' job”. And I did, I got into IT and for years I enjoyed it and worked with some wonderful people in some great roles. When I had my daughter nine years ago I decided I was old enough to make my own decisions and with the support of my husband,

technology more so than skincare. Currently I'm experimenting with combining several modalities, “dermal needling photo-facials” as I have called my latest innovation. It is interesting how a slightly different technique and parameters of IPL rejuvenation post-dermal needling accelerates the skin's healing capacity as well as produces more dramatic results.

Q6. What books do you like reading and what is a recent book you have read?

Julia: For years I have been reading industry and medical books and journals leaving very little time for recreational reading. I am currently very much into sound waves and am re-reading Bill Hariss' Thresholds of the Mind.

Q7. How do you relax and what do you do to maintain balance in your life?

Julia: I am a day spa junkie. I love body treatments, wraps, polishes and massages. Once or twice a month I try to go to a day spa and have a pampering session for myself. It allows me to relax, clear my mind and completely switch off. I find it keeps me going. ㄰

Q8. What value do you gain from being part of APAN? Julia: This is by far the most valuable membership I have ever had. The quality of information, referrals and ideas I get through APAN are invaluable.

Tina is a wealth of knowledge and a very open, wonderful and ethical person.

As her standards in everything she does are so high, it is good to see that she is influencing a large chunk of the industry to those higher levels.

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Julia Grinberg can be contacted on 03 955 75755 or email: julia@chadstone-wellness.com.au

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m e t h o d o l o g y. H o w e v e r , antioxidants by themselves are not enough and the search for topical ingredients that have a number of individual actions continues, with resveratrol continuing to be researched as an effective topical ingredient.

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Resveratrol is not new, having been around the skincare market for a few decades, and seems to come and go every few years. While there is much marketing and media hype about it, there is not really that much scientific evidence for it in regard to skincare effectiveness, although much is assumed, and I must admit that they are probably correct, even though not scientifically proven at this time.

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Google search reveals over 9,000,000 hits with Resveratrol, with most being veiled advertising sites that mostly state 'studies show…' without indicating the study or data bases found, much less studies, with only a few relating to skin; most being ingestion studies with mice.

WHAT AND WHERE IS RESVERATROL? Resveratrol (trans-3, 5, 4',trihydroxystilbene) is a polyphenol molecule of the stilbene chemical group, classified as two aromatic rings joined by a methylene bridge.

Resveratrol – Examining the Facts

by Terry Everitt

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Ageing is associated with free radical damage, and as we grow older the accumulation of oxidative damage begins to show. Internally, optimal support for anti-ageing includes comprehensive nutritional support with a variety of antioxidants, vitamins for energy production (e.g. B vitamins), calcium, magnesium and various other vitamins and minerals.

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Externally we can do much to slow down, and now even prevent, the signs of skin ageing, with topical antioxidants being a major part of the

Red wine gets most of the attention as a source of resveratrol, although it is not the best source, with approx.

1-3 mg of resveratrol per bottle.

The concentration of transresveratrol in red wine varies widely, yet with optimistic estimate is about 4 mg per litre. Assuming a consistent daily intake of 375 ml, or about two glasses of wine, a person weighing 70 kg would receive a dose of approx. 27 µg per kg (body weight) each day. Not exactly enough for any of the resveratrol protective qualities.

Resveratrol (trans-3, 5, 4',- trihydroxystilbene),

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Resveratrol used in supplements are primarily sourced from the Chinese medicinal herb hu zhang – more commonly known as Japanese knotweed (Fallopia japonica or Polygonum cuspidatum).

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Resveratrol occurs in two forms: cis- and trans-resveratrol, of which trans-resveratrol has been found to be the predominant and more stable isomer, chemically being termed trans-3, 5, 4',trihydroxystilbene as mentioned previously. Both the cis and trans form contain the same type and number of atoms, with only the orientation of the atoms being slightly different. Either form can exist as a free compound or attached to a sugar as a glycoside.

In nature, the trans form is most abundant. It is also the most commercially available and the most researched.

(NAD+), forming adenosine diphosphate. Further chemical change occurs to form the high-energy adenosine triphosphate (ATP), a major source of energy in biology.

BENEFITS Resveratrol has been associated with the so-called 'French Paradox'; a phrase deemed by Dr Serge Renaud from Bordeaux University in 1992, in describing the low incidence of heart disease and obesity among the French, despite their relatively high-fat diet and levels of wine consumption.

Sirtuins play a major role in DNA mechanisms as they are responsible for deacetylation of histones (which the DNA stands wind around, keeping the strands together) in the cell nucleus, thus forming what is termed chromatin. This allows for the normal function of the DNA (although acetylation is also required but that is another story).

In 2003, David Sinclair and his team from Harvard reported that resveratrol was able to increase the lifespan of yeast cells. The research, published in Nature, was greeted with international media fanfare and ignited flames of hope for an anti-ageing pill. According to Sinclair's findings, resveratrol could activate a sirtuin (see below) gene called Sir2, which is also activated during calorie restriction in various species, including monkeys.

Resveratrol is shown to be capable of the activation of SIRT1, which turns on the deacetylation process. This is the same result seen as an effect of caloric restriction (CR) in the life-extension process.

While calorie restriction has been known as an effective anti-ageing method, the uptake of this has not been widespread. Humans appear preferring up-taking calories rather than restricting them. To oversimplify, resveratrol appears to have somewhat the same effect as calorie restriction (CR); hence the anti-ageing hype.

Just to clarify a confusion point; Sir2 in yeast and lower organisms is termed SIRT1 in mammals; although not the same, they appear to have the same function, with resveratrol acting on SIRT1 in humans and SIRT1 is up-regulated with calorie restriction.

Much research is centred on sirtuins and activators of them in cosmetics, although many challenges remain to be solved. It was recently found for example that dihydrocoumarin, a common flavour and colour compound in skincare and food, inhibits the activity of SIRT1.

Since this time, resveratrol has been stated as having a variety of bioactivities shown to effectively support a range of metabolic and biochemical processes.

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Sirtuins are a class of protein enzymes with potential anti-ageing effects in humans. The name comes from 'silent information regulator-2', or Sir2, the gene responsible for cellular regulation in yeast, where it was first discovered. Sirtuins are known to affect cellular metabolism in plants and animals, and therefore may play a role in manifestations of ageing (Brewster 2008).

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Sorry about the biochemistry here, however, human sirtuins modify a range of processes that change cellular response to genotoxicity, including the detoxification of reactive oxygen species and sensitivity of cells to apoptosis, primarily by acetylation process in removing acetyl groups from proteins via nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide

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RESVERATROL AS AN ANTIOXIDANT AGAINST INFLAMMATION

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Resveratrol contain aromatic groups (six carbon ring structures), making it able to function as an antioxidant. This forms a stable radical structure, which prevents oxidation.

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Resveratrol just happens to contain two aromatic groups that provide higher antioxidant protection than vitamin C and vitamin E (as proved

by Soares, Andreazza, & Salvador 2003).

The antioxidant activity of resveratrol can inhibit reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation, and thus reduce lipid peroxidation. In addition, ROS, such as superoxide, hydroxyl radical, hydrogen peroxide and the associated reactive nitrogen species, are implicated in the inflammatory process.

NF-kB (which is a transcription factor chemical) is a key step in the process of inflammation, and evidence supports resveratrol exerting its anti-inflammatory activity by inhibiting NF-kB activity.

Additionally, scientific evidence suggests that resveratrol can also reduce inflammation via inhibition of prostaglandin production and cyclooxygenase-2 activity.

A recent clinical study investigated the effects of resveratrol on oxidative and inflammatory stress in normal human subjects with 40 mg daily over six weeks. The authors reported a significant reduction in all chemical inflammatory indices, including reactive oxygen species generation, the expression of p47 (phox), intranuclear nuclear factor-kappa B biding and the expression of jun-N-terminal kinase-1, inhibitor of kappaB-kinase-beta, phosphotyrosine phosphatise-1B and suppressor of cytokine signalling-3 in mononuclear cells.

Resveratrol also suppressed plasma concentrations of TNF-alpha, IL6 and C-reactive protein. No changes in these indices were found in the placebo group. The findings of this study suggest that resveratrol exerts a significant and broad suppressive effect on oxidative and inflammatory stress in healthy humans (Ghanim et al 2010).

Kowalczyk et al (2010) tested ellagic acid and calcium D-glucarate as components of diets, while resveratrol was applied topically; in a different group (of mice) grape seed extract was applied topically or in the diet. They found that all the selected topical combinations caused a marked decrease of epidermal thickness, with a synergistic effect on hyperplasia. Skin tissue of mice receiving the combinations showed decreased cell proliferation (indicated by Bcl2 expression; decreased p21, a regulator of cell cycle; and decreased marker of inflammation cyclooxygenase-2).

At the core of free radical damage is inflammation, and inflammation is responsible for many of the dysfunctional ageing changes and of many diseases. While resveratrol might not be the only answer, it appears that it has great promise in fighting one of the main causative factors in ageing.

study, the researchers found that both groups had similar body weight, but that the resveratrol-fed animals has significantly lower fat tissue levels. Interestingly the authors stated (yet the media report did not): “It is important to point out that the effective dose in our experimental design, as well as those used by other authors, is far greater than the amount usually ingested by humans (100-930 micrograms per day).

This means that the positive effects of this molecule on body fat would only be achieved by the intake of resveratrol pills or functional foods enriched with this molecule.” (Alberdi et al 2011).

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The conclusion of the study’s report is stated as: “Taken together, the results of the present work in mice suggest that the body fat-lowering effect of resveratrol is mediated, at least in part, by a reduction in fatty acid uptake from circulating tricylglcyerols, as well as in denovo lipogenesis in adipose tissue. Nevertheless, some actions of this polyphenol on organs and tissues with a relevant role in triacylglycerol metabolism, such as liver and skeletal muscle, should also be considered. These should be further investigated in order to determine its whole body-fat mechanism of action” (Alberdi et al 2011).

There is a difference between mice and man (irrespective of what many think), and 30 milligrams per kilo weight is a massive dosage, and as the authors indicate, humans get nowhere near this amount.

(Many supplements are in micrograms and not milligrams.)

I have no doubt that the resveratrol has an effect on reducing the activity of lipogenic enzymes (particularly lipoprotein lipase), which in turn causes reduction in fatty acid uptake from circulating tricylglycerols. This has been indicated in other studies, so it appears that resveratrol has an effect on mice lipids – yet does this relate to humans and at a comparable dose?

Get out the calculator and work out how much resveratrol you would need with your present weight in kilograms X 30 milligrams per kilo.

If you are taking resveratrol, then check how much you are taking (probably in micrograms, which need converting up to milligrams).

This will be a massive amount of resveratrol needed daily to have an effect for lipid change (without any weight loss). A 70-kilo person would need 2100 milligrams, which is not what anyone could take, even if they could (see below).

I guess all above is to show one example of 'don't believe all you read in the mass media'.

There is, however, no doubt that resveratrol is useful and I do believe resveratrol should be taken for its protective abilities, as studies in nematode worms, fruit flies, fish, and mice (not in humans, however) have linked resveratrol to longer lives. Other studies with resveratrol have reported anti-cancer effects, anti-inflammatory effects, cardiovascular benefits, anti-diabetes potential, energy endurance enhancement, and protection against Alzheimer's.

RESVERATROL – SAFETY AND DOSAGE ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ I decided to write this resveratrol article after seeing a major magazine with the article title “Daily consumption of resveratrol, an antioxidant compound in red wine, may reduce body fat levels by preventing the formation of fat tissue”. It stated that a recent study proved that resveratrol reduces fat in humans; which in my mind (with the little knowledge I have) seemed very unlikely. The magazine report gave no information regarding the study, yet I tracked it down and found that the study was with 16 mice over six weeks, being fed an 'obesity inducing diet', with 8 mice having 30 milligrams of resveratrol per kilogram of body weight per day. After six weeks of

Recent studies have investigated the pharmacokinetics, bioavailability and toxicity of resveratrol in humans, showing resveratrol being well absorbed, rapidly metabolised and appears to be well tolerated with no marked toxicity. Evidence from one study has shown that more than 100 human subjects who received single doses up to 5g of resveratrol per 70kg of body weight showed only mild and temporary adverse effects, being frontal headaches (Cottart et al 2010). However, since no long-term effects have been established in humans, it is suggested that a prudent dosage of approximately 200 mg- 400 mg per day would be advised.

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Dosages of resveratrol for known benefit and safety in people have not been established. Positive studies on mice used daily doses ranging from 22 mg to 400 mg of resveratrol per kilogram of body weight. In humans, this would be equal to a daily dose of about 1,500 to 28,000 mg of resveratrol, again far more than that provided by most supplements.

Administering higher doses to improve efficacy might not be possible as toxic effects have been observed at or above 1 g per kg (body weight). Moreover, administering a daily dose to a human weighing 75 kg with 100 mg per kg (body weight) of resveratrol would require 2.7 kg of resveratrol a year, at a current cost of about US $6,800 (Baur & Sinclair 2006). This bodes well for topical application for increased effectiveness of targeted benefit, particularly for skin health.

Concerns and Cautions:

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Resveratrol (particularly the trans-form) has mild estrogenic activity that has not been evaluated in humans. Until more is known, women with estrogen-sensitive conditions, including some cancers, are advised to consult a physician before taking resveratrol.

Particularly due to potential anti-growth factor properties, resveratrol should not be used by children or by women who are pregnant, nursing or trying to conceive.

Because resveratrol demonstrates anti-platelet (blood-thinning) activity, individuals taking blood thinners are strongly advised to consult a physician before taking resveratrol because of potential drug interactions.

TRYROSINASE INHIBITOR

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An interesting study was conducted by Consumer labs in USA on resveratrol supplements and they found that the cost to obtain 100 mg of resveratrol from each product ranged from 15 cents to $1.20. Be aware that some products label their resveratrol in micrograms (µg or mcg) rather than milligrams (mg). This can make the amount look large, but there are 1,000 micrograms in 1 milligram. For a product that promises 100 µg per pill, you would need to take 1,000 pills to get a 100 mg dose.

In mammals, there is growing evidence that resveratrol can prevent or delay the onset of a number of disease states. One concern is the vast variation of the type and dose of resveratrol used in the various studies. Systemically there is a high urinary excretion clearance rate with a short half-life of resveratrol.

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WHAT TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING AND USING RESVERATROL?

The enzyme tyrosinase is known to be the key enzyme implicated in the anabolism of melanin in melanocytes by converting tyrosine to 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-dopa) and oxidises L-dopa to form dopaquinone, which plays a prominent part in melanin biosynthesis.

While studies have speculated that resveratrol could play a part in blocking melanin production, a study published in 2000 indicated that resveratrol was effective, yet not in the way thought of at the time, using oxyresveratrol (2,3'2,4,5'2-tetrahydroxystilbene), extracted from Morus alba (mushroom). They showed that resveratrol is able to act as a competitive substrate of tyrosine and L-dopa because resveratrol is metabolised, as L-tyrosine, by tyrosinase.

The study authors concluded, it revealed that “resveratrol cannot be considered as an inhibitor of tyrosinase, but as a substrate that seems to be converted by tyrosinase into an inhibitor able to occupy the Ldopa site” (Bernard & Berthon 2000).

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There are many problems with tryrosinase inhibitors actually working at the active receptor sites and while this study showed in vitro (not on humans) that resveratrol was useful in slowing melanin production, human testing since has not provided scientifically reliable results.

An American ingredient manufacturer has formulated resveratrol with the microorganism Pichia pastoris, with in vitro (test tube) studies showing effective melanin reduction, so perhaps time will tell if resveratrol can be an effective reductionist of melanin production.

CONCLUSION There is much anecdotal evidence regarding resveratrol, yet thankfully there is a strong cohort of academic scientists undertaking studies providing evidence of resveratrol effectiveness, but being cautious in their findings, as most study is on mice and direct correlation with humans is not so clear. There is still much to discover about resveratrol and how it can be used effectively. Greater research is required in finding how to block or slow down the metabolism of resveratrol, or in developing analogues (chemical cousins) with improved bioavailability to have resveratrol effectively deliver on all its promises of the possible anti-ageing wonder ingredient.

Topical application appears to be an effective method, particularly because the antioxidant properties of resveratrol work well against the high oxidative stress that skin cells come under. While resveratrol has shown great promise against a number of skin conditions, sadly at this time it remains a promise rather than actuality, although I believe we are getting closer and resveratrol is an ingredient that is worth having around.

REFERENCES Alberdi, G. Rodriguez, V. M. Miranda, J. Macarulla, M. T. Arias, N. Andres-Lacueva, C. Portillo, M. P. 2011, “Changes in white adipose tissue metabolism induced by resveratrol in rats”, Nutrition & Metabolism, vol 8.

Baur, J.A.. Sinclair, D. A. 2006, 'Therapeutic potential of resveratrol: the in vivo evidence', Nature Review, vol. 5, pp. 493- 506.

Bernard, P. Berthon, Y. J. 2000, 'Resveratrol: an original mechanism on tyrosinase inhibition', International Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 22, pp. 219-226.

Brewster, B. 2008, 'Stimulating Sirtuins' Antiaging Appeal', Cosmetics & Toiletries, January, pp. 22-28.

Cottart, C. Nivet-Antoine, V. Laguillier-Morizot, C. & Beaudeux, J. 2010, 'Resevratrol bioavailability and toxicity in humans'. Molecular Nutrition & Food Research, Vol. 54, No. 1, pp. 716, Ghanim, H. Sia, C. L. Abuaysheh, S. Korzeniewski, K. Patnaik, P. Marumganti, A. Chaudhuri, A. & Dandona, P. 2010. 'An Antiinflammatory and Reactive Oxygen Species Suppressive Effects of an Extract of Polygonum Cuspidatum Containing Resveratrol', The Journal of Clinical Endocrinology & Metabolism, Vol. 95, no. 9, pp. E 1-E 8.

Kowalczyk, M. Kowalczyk, P. Tolstykh, O. Hanausek, M. Walaszek, Z. Slaga, T. 2010, 'Synergistic Effects of Combined Phytochemicals and Skin Cancer Prevention in SENCAR Mice',Cancer Prevention Research vol .3.

Soares, D. G. Andreazza, A. C. Salvador, M. 2003, 'Sequestering ability of butylated hydrooxytoluene, propyl gallate, resveratrol, and vitamin C and E against ABTS, DPPH, and hydroxyl-free radicals in chemical and biological systems', Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, vol. 51, no. 4, pp. 10771080.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

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This section presents news and research information relating to skin and anti-ageing discoveries.

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Gut feelings: Anxiety may live in your gut, not your head The bacteria that colonises in people's stomachs may have a far more dramatic impact on mental-health conditions like depression and anxiety than previously thought, according to a new study published in the Journal of Gastroenterology.

For the first time, researchers at McMaster University have conclusive evidence that bacteria residing in the gut influence brain chemistry and behaviour.

Common types of gastrointestinal disease, including irritable bowel syndrome, have been associated with anxiety or depression. In addition, there has been speculation that some psychiatric disorders, such as late onset autism, may be associated with an abnormal bacterial content in the gut.

"The exciting results provide stimulus for further investigating, a microbial component to the causation of behavioural illnesses," said researcher Stephen Collins, Professor of Medicine and Associate Dean Research, Michael G. DeGroote School of Medicine. ㄰

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For each person, the gut is home to about 1000 trillion bacteria with which we live in harmony. These bacteria perform a number of functions vital to health: They harvest energy from the diet, protect against infections and provide nutrition to cells in the gut. Any disruption can result in life-threatening conditions, such as antibiotic-induced colitis from infection with the "superbug" Clostridium difficile.

In order to come to their conclusions, the researchers sought to determine the impact of antibiotics on gut bacteria. They utilised mice in the experiment and attempted to gauge the alterations in brain chemistry that would occur. Eventually, they noted that mice became less anxious when given oral antibiotics with an increased brain-derived neurotrophic factor (BDNF), a chemical linked with depression and anxiety.

Previous research has focused on the role bacteria play in brain development early in life. This latest research indicates that while many factors determine behaviour, the nature and stability of bacteria in the gut appears to influence behaviour and any disruption, from antibiotics or infection, might produce changes in behaviour.

These results laid the foundation for investigating the therapeutic potential of probiotic bacteria and their products in the treatment of behavioural disorders, particularly those associated with gastrointestinal conditions such as irritable bowel syndrome. This is an important first step in understanding some of the lesserknown causes of depression. The research was funded by grants from the Canadian Institutes of Health Research (CIHR) and the Crohn's and Colitis Foundation of Canada (CCFC).

SOURCE: Premysl Bercik, E. Denou, Josh Collins, W. Jackson, J. Lu, J. Jury, Y. Deng, P. Blennerhassett, J. Macri, K.D. McCoy, E.F. Verdu, S.M. Collins. Gastroenterology — May 2011

Green Tea lowers cholesterol

from the plant Camellia sinensis can be grouped into green, black and oolong tea.

Cross-culturally tea-drinking habits vary.

Camellia sinensis contains the active ingredient polyphenol, which has a subgroup known as catechins. Catechins are powerful antioxidants and appear to decrease the absorption of cholesterol in the gut.

The research team pooled the results of 14 randomised trials in which participants drank green tea or took an extract for periods ranging from three weeks to three months, or were assigned to a placebo group.

On average, green tea reduced total cholesterol by 0.18 mmol/L compared to levels seen in those taking the placebo (P < 0.001). Low-density lipoprotein (LDL) cholesterol fell by a mean of 0.05 mmol/L, or slightly less than 2 per cent (P < 0.001). The mean change in blood high-density lipoprotein (HDL) cholesterol concentration was not significant.

Subgroup and sensitivity analyses showed that these changes were not influenced by the type of intervention, treatment dose of green tea catechins, study duration, individual health status or quality of the study. This reduction is fairly small, warned Nathan Wong, who runs the heart disease prevention program at the University of California, Irvine.

Green tea "should not be recommended in place of well-proven cholesterol-lowering medicines for people with high cholesterol," he said. But Wong said that smaller amounts "could be a useful component of a heart-

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Drinking green tea appears to cut "bad" cholesterol while leaving levels of good cholesterol unchanged, and encouraging people to drink more of the beverage could have significant health effects, according to a new study.

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Tea is one of the most commonly consumed beverages worldwide. Teas

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healthy diet," with benefits that go beyond its effect on cholesterol.

prostate, urinary/bladder, lung, stomach, colon/colorectal and female breast cancer.

SOURCE: Zheng XX, Xu YL, Li SH, Liu XX, Hui R, Huang XH. Am J Clin Nutr. 2011 Jun 29.

The data show that although the 49 prospective observational studies suggested a link between selenium intake and a slight reduction in cancer risk (more so in men than women, the six randomised trials failed to support an association, even among people who took doses at least four times higher than the daily recommendation.

Does Selenium prevent Cancer?

There is a worldwide debate about the association between selenium exposure and cancer risk. A key question is whether or not selenium supplements decrease the incidence or mortality of cancer. New data from the Cochrane Collaboration questions the benefit, with some of the studies reviewed suggesting selenium may actually harm patients by increasing their risk for nonmelanoma skin cancer.

Selenium is a trace element essential to humans. Found naturally in meat, fish and nuts, selenium is important for the immune system and thyroid. It is thought by some to help prevent several types of cancers at high doses.

The daily selenium recommendations from the US and World Health Organisation (WHO) vary between 30 and 55 micrograms per day for adults.

To get a better picture of the role of selenium in cancer prevention, scientists from Germany, Switzerland, Belgium, Italy and the UK undertook a systemic review of the existing evidence for the Cochrane Collaboration.

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The Cochrane Collaboration is an international, non-profit organisation, which publishes high-quality systematic reviews of healthcare research. The Cochrane Library is generally considered to be one of the most respected and reliable sources of evidence.

No external funding was supplied.

The systematic review included 55 eligible studies, including more than one million participants. Studies reviewed cancer prevention and specific cancers such as

undernourished and adequately nourished groups of people. Currently, there is no convincing evidence that individuals, particularly those who are adequately nourished, will benefit from selenium supplementation with regard to their cancer risk. The choice of whether to take supplements remains an individual one.

SOURCE: Dennert G, Zwahlen M, Brinkman M, Vinceti M, Zeegers MP A, Horneber M. Selenium for preventing cancer. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews 2011, Issue 5. Art. No.: CD005195.

DOI: 10.1002/14651858.CD005195.pub2

The review analysed two types of selenium supplements in case they a c t e d differently in the body when ingested. The trials with the most reliable results found that organic selenium did not prevent prostate cancer in men, and increased the risk of nonmelanoma skin cancer in women and men.

Other trials found that participants using selenium salt or organic supplements had a decrease in liver-cancer cases. However, due to methodological shortcomings this evidence was less convincing.

In addition, some of the trials raised the question of whether high doses of selenium might be dangerous. For example, by increasing the risk of diabetes.

There was no evidence that low levels of selenium lead to an increased risk of cancer.

SLEEP APNOEA PATIENTS BENEFIT FROM VERY LOWENERGY DIET New findings suggest a nine-week very lowenergy diet can significantly help patients with sleep apnoea and improve symptoms one year later.

"We still do not have an exact picture of what selenium is doing to human health," said researcher and contributor Dr. Marco Vinceti, University of Modena and Reggio Emilia, Italy.

Obstructive sleep apnoea (OSA) is a common condition that occurs when the airway from the mouth to the lung collapses during sleep.

A person with OSA may have hundreds of these episodes throughout the night, disrupting their sleep and reducing oxygen supply to vital organs.

The authors recommended further evaluation of the effects of selenium supplements in populations according to their nutritional status as these may differ between

People with OSA have an increased risk of motor vehicle accidents and high blood pressure, and may have an increased risk of

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heart attack and stroke. Some associated symptoms include: ! Daytime sleepiness, fatigue and tiredness ! Poor concentration ! Irritability and mood changes ! Impotence and reduced sex drive ! Need to visit the toilet frequently at night In the over 30 year age group, the disorder is about three times more common in men than women.

While between 60-70% of sleep apnoea patients are overweight/obese, additional contributing factors include alcohol consumption, nasal congestion/obstruction, facial bone shape and size of muscles, large tonsils, certain illness (e.g. thyroid) and medications.

Researchers from the Korlinska Institute, Sweden, tested a nine-week very low-energy diet followed by counselling on 63 males (aged 30-65 years) with moderate to severe sleep apnoea and BMIs between 30 and 40.

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Those who managed to lose weight during the nine-week diet managed to keep their weight down during the subsequent year. This medium-term weight loss significantly helped improve their symptoms. One year later, 48% of patients were able to cease using

continuous positive airway pressure (C-PAP) and 10% experienced a total remission of OSA. Those with the most severe symptoms when the study began experienced the greatest improvement, as did participants who had lost the most weight.

SOURCE: Johansson K, Hemmingsson E, Harlid R, Lagerros YT, Granath F, Rössner S, Neovius M. Longer term effects of very low energy diet on obstructive sleep apnoea in cohort derived from randomised controlled trial: prospective observational follow-up study. BMJ 2011;342: d3017 (Published 1 June 2011)

challenging for undernourished and malnourished patients. The cellular and biochemical events that constitute the woundhealing cascade require energy, amino acids, oxygen, metals, trace minerals and vitamins for successful completion. Many nutritional deficiencies impact on wound healing by impeding fibroblast proliferation, collagen synthesis and epithelialisation. There are also nutrients that can enhance wound-healing responses.

Trials with nutrition interventions show positive results. For example, in obese nonbariatric and post-bariatric patients, appropriate nutritional supplementation significantly reduced surgical complications associated with obesity and bariatric surgery.

MALNUTRITION: A CRITICAL COMPONENT OF WOUND HEALING

Early nutrition intervention was also associated with significantly improved clinical outcomes after upper GI surgery, head and neck cancer surgery, breast-implant surgery and in patients with burns.

Malnutrition is a debilitating prevalent condition in the geriatric and hospital setting. It is associated with many adverse outcomes, including impaired wound healing and increased mortality. New data show nutrition intervention may directly enhance the healing process in surgical, burns and pressure-ulcer patients.

Pressure ulcers are localised injuries to the skin or underlying tissue, usually over a bony prominence, as a result of unrelieved pressure. Predisposing factors are classified as intrinsic (e.g., limited mobility, poor nutrition, co-morbidities, ageing skin) or extrinsic (e.g., pressure, friction, shear, moisture).

Australian and international studies report malnutrition rates of approximately 40% in the hospital setting. It is very common in geriatric patients and patients in catabolic phases of stress, after injury or surgery.

Nutrition is regarded as one of the major influences on the successful outcome of wound healing, along with normal immune system function and reduced mortality.

Nutrition intervention directly and significantly enhances the healing process in these patients. In Australia, nutrition screening upon hospital admission is not mandatory. Malnutrition remains underreported and often poorly documented.

Unidentified malnutrition not only heightens the risk of adverse complications for patients.

It can potentially result in foregone reimbursements to the hospital through casemix-based funding schemes.

Wound healing is a process that can be divided into four overlapping, but distinct, phases (haemostasis, inflammation, proliferation, and remodelling). If the wound-healing process is affected negatively, it can result in chronic wounds, which demand many resources in the daily clinical routine.

Many health professionals are now recommending mandatory nutrition screening be widely adopted in line with published best-practice guidelines to effectively target and reduce the incidence of hospital malnutrition and improve patient outcomes.

During the wound-healing process much energy is needed. This can be very

Information presented by the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine. Further details visit www.aa5m.net

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surgery&nutrition !

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Development of a new pressure ulcer or ulcer on leg/foot or deterioration of an existing wound Low serum albumin Admission / readmission to hospital Entry into long-term care.

Wound healing proceeds more efficiently and quickly in wellnourished individuals. Individuals who are malnourished and chronically ill heal less well, and in general experience a greater risk of complications during and after surgery. It is imperative that cancer patients heal quickly, as the healing process results in the release of many growth factors and angiogenic molecules that can contribute to metastatic spread of nearby tumours.

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THE WOUND-HEALING PROCESS The healing process is common to all wounds, independent of the agent that has caused it. It is divided didactically into three phases: inflammation, proliferation, and remodelling or maturation.

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body and is also the main component of the wound matrix. It is organised in a thick and dynamic net, resulting from constant collagen deposition and reabsorption. Wound scar is the result of the interaction between collagen synthesis, degradation and remodelling. [62]

Surgery, Wound Healing & Nutrition

By Henry Osiecki Patient nutritional status affects the results of surgical treatment.

Postoperative complications, length of hospital stay and mortality rate tend to increase in patients whose nutritional status is compromised.

A complex mix of factors, such as tumour location, tumour type, stage of disease and pre-operative radiation and/or chemotherapy treatments, can predispose patients to malnutrition. Nausea, vomiting, reduced appetite, early satiety, taste changes, diarrhoea, pain, mucositis, physical obstruction and malabsorption could result in weight loss, which in turn is a strong prognostic indicator of poor outcome in terms of survival and response to treatment.

Other factors that are often less considered as resulting in poor nutritional status of the patient include the following: [3]

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Cardiac e.g, chronic heart failure Respiratory disease – chronic obstructive pulmonary disease Gastrointestinal – malabsorption syndromes, dysphagia, Helicobacter pylori, atrophic gastritis Endocrine disorders – diabetes, thyrotoxicosis Neurological – stroke, Parkinson's disease, motor neurone disease Infection – pneumonia, urinary tract infection Physical disability – arthritis Alcoholism Poor dentition Drugs that many induce anorexia e.g. Cardiovascular drugs (amiodarone, frusemide, digoxin, spironolactone), neurological drugs (levodopa, fluoxetine, lithium), gastrointestinal drugs (H2 antagonists, proton pump inhibitors), antibiotic (metronidazole, griseofluvin), most chemotherapeutic drugs and musculoskeletal drugs (colchicine, NSAIDs, penicillamine, methotrexate)

Further factors for consideration that indicate that nutrition status of the patient may be an issue include:

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Any unintentional weight loss, including: [56] Unintentional weight loss of 5% or more in one month Unintentional weight loss of 10% or more in six months Poor appetite e.g. eating less than 50% of meals, or refusal to eat a meal, or refusal to eat for three days or more Nausea or vomiting for more than three days Loss of skin integrity

Figure 8.1. Phases of wound healing. Healing in acute wounds occurs as a sequential cascade of overlapping processes that requires the coordinated completion of a variety of cellular activities, including phagocytosis, chemotaxis, mitogenesis, collagen synthesis and the synthesis of other matrix components. These activities do not occur in a haphazard manner, but rather in a carefully regulated and systematic cascade that correlates with the appearance of different cell types in the wound during various stages of the healing process.

These processes, which are triggered by tissue injury, involve the four overlapping but well-defined phases of haemostasis, inflammation, proliferation and remodelling. [64] Malnourishment increases the intensity and duration of wound inflammation, impairs fibroblast function and decreases the expression of collagen III. Zinc, selenium and vitamins A, C, and E may be associated with the prevention or attenuation of peroxidative damage. Vitamin and mineral deficiency is known to impair the normal wound-healing process, but deficiencies in these micronutrients can be corrected with supplementation. [74, 75]

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PHASES OF HEALING

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Wound healing involves controlling inflammation, increasing natural healing properties and supplying nutrients for the body to rebuild.

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Wound repair is initiated with the aggregation of platelets, formation of a fibrin clot and the release of growth factors. Platelets entangled in the fibrin clot release growth factors: platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF), insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1), epidermal growth factor (EGF), and transforming growth factor-beta (TGF-β). These proteins initiate the wound-healing cascade by attracting and activating fibroblasts, endothelial cells and macrophages. The platelets also release vasoactive amines such as serotonin, which contributes to the increase in microvascular permeability. This leads to the exudation of fluid into the extravascular space, which results in tissue oedema, although this feature is more prominent during the inflammatory phase. This is followed by the early inflammatory phase, which begins with the activation of complement and infiltration of the wound by granulocytes and phagocytes or polymorphonuclear leucocytes, whose function is to prevent infection. They contribute little to the normal healing process. [64] (Refer to Figure 8.1) The late inflammatory stage is associated with a phenotypic change in monocytes to tissue macrophages. Monocytes are attracted to the wound by a variety of chemoattractants, including complement, clotting components, immunoglobulin G (IgG) fragments, collagen and elastin breakdown products, and cytokines such as leukotriene B4 (IL-B4), platelet factor IV, PDGF and TGF-β.

Macrophages play a crucial role in healing as they release proteolytic enzymes (collagenase) that can debride tissue. The depletion of circulating monocytes and tissue macrophages causes severe alterations in wound healing, leading to poor wound debridement, delayed fibroblast proliferation, inadequate angiogenesis and poor fibrosis.

Additional growth factors such as transforming growth factor-alpha (TGF-α), heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HB-EGF) and basic fibroblast growth factor (bFGF) are secreted by the polymorphonuclear leucocytes and macrophages, which further stimulate the inflammatory response. (Note: inflammatory infiltrates have tumour-promoting properties) [67])

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The lymphocyte is the last cell type to enter the wound during the inflammatory phase (>72 hours after wounding) and may be attracted by interleukin-1 (IL-1), IgG and complement products. IL-1 is believed to play a key role in the regulation of collagenase, indicating that the lymphocyte may be involved in collagen and extracellular matrix (ECM) remodelling.

The proliferative phase starts at about day three and lasts for two weeks after wounding. It is characterised by the replacement of the provisional fibrin/fibronectin matrix with newly formed granulation tissue. It comprises a number of processes: [64] ! Fibroblast migration: Following injury fibroblasts and myofibroblasts are stimulated (PDGF and TGF-β) to migrate into

the wound where they proliferate and produce the matrix proteins fibronectin, hyaluronan (HA) and later collagen and proteoglycans, which forms the new extracellular matrix (ECM). Interactions between the fibroblasts and the ECM itself help to determine the synthesis and remodelling of the matrix. ! Collagen synthesis: Collagens (Type 1 and III) are synthesised by fibroblasts. Collagens play a key role in all phases of wound healing. Immediately after injury, exposed collagen comes into contact with blood, promoting platelet aggregation and activating chemotactic factors involved in the response to injury. Later collagen becomes the foundation of the wound ECM. Invading fibroblasts synthesise and secrete types I and III collagen to form the new matrix. ! Angiogenesis: The process of forming new blood vessels occurs concurrently during all stages of the healing process.

TGF-β and PDGF, secreted by the platelets during the haemostatic phase, attract macrophages and granulocytes and promote angiogenesis. The macrophages, in particular, play a key role in angiogenesis by releasing a number of other angiogenic substances, including tumour necrosis factor-α and bFGF. Angiogenic capillary sprouts invade the fibrin/fibronectinrich wound clot and organise into a microvascular network throughout the granulation tissue within a few days. As collagen accumulates in the granulation tissue to produce scar tissue the density of blood vessels diminishes. Disturbance of this dynamic process may influence the development of chronic wounds. (Note: these same chemical messengers can promote the spread of cancer and must be regulated to reduce metastasis) ! Granulation tissue formation: Granulation tissue has a pink granular appearance because of the numerous capillaries that invade the wound stroma. Each 'granule' contains a loop of capillaries and therefore bleeds easily if traumatised. Granulation tissue is made up mainly of proliferating fibroblasts, capillaries and tissue macrophages in a matrix of collagen, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), including hyaluronic acid (HA), and the glycoproteins – fibronectin and tenascin. Granulation tissue formation is evident as early as 48 hours after wounding and by 96 hours fibroblasts become the predominant cell type in this tissue. ! Epithelialisation: A single layer of epidermal cells start to migrate from the wound edges within a few hours of wounding to form a delicate covering over the raw area exposed by the loss of epidermis, a process known as epiboly. From about 12 hours after wounding there is a marked increase in mitotic activity in the basal cells from the wound edges or around skin appendages. These cells loosen their normally firm attachments to the underlying dermis, allowing them to migrate in a leap-frog fashion across the provisional matrix. When advancing epithelial cells meet, further movement is halted by contact inhibition and a new basement membrane regenerates.

Further epithelial cell growth and differentiation re-establishes the stratified epithelium. The rate of epithelial coverage is increased if the wound does not require debridement, if the basal lamina is intact and if the wound is kept moist. A dry scab slows the rate of

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epithelialisation. Several growth factors modulate epithelialisation: Epidermal growth factor (EGF) is a potent stimulator of epithelial mitogenesis and chemotaxis, while other growth factors, such as bFGF and keratinocyte growth factor, also stimulate epithelial proliferation.

THE REMODELLING PHASE ㈵

Matrix synthesis and the remodelling phase are initiated concurrently with the development of granulation tissue and continue over prolonged periods of time. As the matrix matures fibronectin and HA are broken down and collagen bundles increase in diameter, corresponding with increasing wound tensile strength. However, these collagen fibres never regain the original strength of normal unwounded skin and only a maximum of 80% unwounded skin strength can be achieved.

The normal process of healing can be disrupted at one or more points in the phases of haemostasis, inflammation, and proliferation and remodelling. In most chronic wounds, however, the healing process is thought to be 'stuck' in the inflammatory or proliferative phases. E.g.

Disturbance in the balance between ECM production and degradation leads to the formation of chronic ulcers with excessive ECM degradation, or fibrosis or keloids characterised by excessive accumulation of ECM components.

As growth factors, cytokines, proteases and cellular and extracellular elements all play important roles in different stages of the healing process, alterations in one or more of these components could account for the impaired healing observed in chronic wounds.

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are essential during the healing process at multiple stages, ranging from the initial signal that instigates the immune response, to the triggering of intracellular redox-dependent signalling pathways and the defence against invading bacteria. Excessive ROS in the wound milieu nevertheless impedes new tissue formation. [68] Reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated in wounded dermal cells includes superoxide, hydrogen peroxide, hydroxyl radical (formed by the interaction of hydrogen peroxide with Fe2+) and peroxynitrite (formed by the interaction of superoxide with nitric oxide). These ROS result in membrane lipid peroxidation, protein oxidation and damage to nucleic acids, any of which may impair cellular processes involved in wound healing, including proliferation and migration of epidermal cells and angiogenesis. The increased ROS levels experienced by cells in wounded tissue may be exacerbated by the depletion of antioxidant enzymes, including Cu/Zn superoxide dismutase (SOD1) and glutathione peroxidase. [94-96] Scavenging radicals using antioxidants expedites healing in venous ulcers. [64]

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Malnutrition is largely associated with a delayed or compromised healing process, healing tissue fragility, less phagocytosis and a higher risk of wound infection. In addition, a major surgical insult or trauma increases protein and energy requirements, amplifying the deficits from a previous malnourished state and contributing to the delay in the repair process. [70]

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Infection and immunosuppression Presence of debris and necrotic tissue Use of anti-inflammatory and cytotoxic medication (aspirin, NSAIDs, steroids) Nutritional deficiency (zinc, vitamin C, vitamin B5, manganese, copper, vitamin E, vitamin A, protein, arginine and glutamine) Tumours Metabolic disorders (e.g. diabetes, antioxidant deficiency, high blood sugar, hyper-metabolic states) Denervation of wounds Smoking Dehydration Radiation exposure within six months of surgery

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NUTRIENTS THAT SUPPORT HEALING One of the most frequent complications in patients with cancer is malnutrition, which results in decreased wound tensile strength, increased infection rates, wound healing delay or failure. [51] Furthermore, among cancer patients, radiation, chemotherapy, and the malignancy itself increase the likelihood of chronic wound formation, and these co-morbidity factors inhibit the normal woundhealing process. [52]

Table 1. Nutrient Impacts on the Phases of Wound Healing [53] Wounding Calendula succus – topical antimicrobial

Haemostasis Drugs and herbs that effect blood-clotting mechanisms should be avoided prior to surgery.

Inflammatory Phase Vitamin A – enhances early inflammatory phase [55] Bromelain and adequate protein intake – prevent prolonging inflammatory phase Vitamin C – enhances neutrophil migration and lymphocyte transformation

Proliferative Phase Vitamin C – necessary for collagen synthesis [54] Genistein – accelerates re-epithelialisation in post-menopausal women. [65] Glucosamine – enhances hyaluronic acid production Vitamin A – promotes epithelial cell differentiation Zinc (applied topically) – required for DNA synthesis, cell division and protein synthesis. Increases the production of integrins (alpha3, alpha6, alphaV) affecting cellular mobility in the proliferation phase of wound healing. [88, 89] Arginine – Helps increase collagen synthesis. It is converted to ornithine by the enzyme arginase.

Ornithine – may contribute to the synthesis of protein-bound proline in wounds by increasing the extracellular pool of free proline. [76,77] Calendula succus and Aloe vera – support formation of granulation tissue

Remodelling

IMPEDIMENTS TO WOUND HEALING

Carnitine – Increases re- epithelialisation thickness [57] Protein – Deficiency inhibits wound remodelling [54] Copper (applied topically) – induces the synthesis of integrins (alpha2, beta1 and alpha6) expressed by suprabasally differentiated keratinocytes during the final healing phase. [87]

Wounds or surgical scars often heal in a short period of time if factors that inhibit wound healing are identified and managed. Some of the most commonly encountered and clinically significant impediments to wound healing include: [63] ! Wound hypoxia and haemorrhage

Nutritional deficiencies can impede wound healing, and several nutritional factors required for wound repair may improve healing time and wound outcome. Vitamin A is required for epithelial and bone formation, cellular differentiation and immune function. [55, 56]

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Vitamin C is necessary for collagen formation, proper immune function and as a tissue antioxidant. [54, 69] Bromelain reduces oedema, bruising, pain and healing time following trauma and surgical procedures. Glucosamine appears to be the rate-limiting substrate for hyaluronic acid production in the wound. Carnitine improved collagen deposition, wound tensile strength and accelerated wound healing. [57-59] Adequate dietary protein is absolutely essential for proper wound healing, and tissue levels of the amino acids arginine and glutamine may influence wound repair and immune function. [53, 54](Refer to Table 1)

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Glutamine and glutamate with proline, histidine, arginine and ornithine comprise 25% of the dietary amino acid intake and

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constitute the "glutamate family" of amino acids, which are disposed of through conversion to glutamate. Although glutamine has been classified as a nonessential amino acid, in major trauma, major surgery, sepsis, bone marrow transplantation, intense chemotherapy and radiotherapy, when its consumption exceeds its synthesis, it becomes a conditionally essential amino acid. Glutamine is a key link between carbon metabolism of carbohydrates and proteins and plays an important role in the growth of fibroblasts, lymphocytes and enterocytes. [78] It is the principal metabolic fuel for small intestine enterocytes, lymphocytes, macrophages and fibroblasts.

Glutamine supplementation attenuates the immunosuppression and decreases the rate of infection. Oral supplementation increases intestinal villous height, stimulates gut mucosal cellular proliferation and maintains mucosal integrity and improves colonic anastomosis healing. [81, 83] It also prevents intestinal hyper-permeability and bacterial translocation, which may be involved in a relapse and the development of multiple organ failure.

Within the past two decades, 36 (24 oral/enteral, 12 parenteral) clinical studies evaluating the tolerance, safety and effects of glutamine in various patient groups have been published. In the great majority of these clinical studies, glutamine supplementation in cancer patients improves host metabolism and clinical situation without increasing tumour growth. Potential mechanisms of glutamine effects include maintenance of mucosal integrity, improved immune competence, inhibition of cell proliferation, increased apoptosis rate, increased synthesis of glutathione, induction of heat shock protein synthesis, and increased synthesis of glucagon-like peptides. It can beneficially contribute to diminish risks of high-dose chemotherapy and radiation and improve outcomes in patients undergoing bone-marrow transplantation. [84, 85]

Glycine supplementation has been found to improve wound healing by increasing c AMP in wound tissue, acting as an anti-inflammatory agent, improving the maturation of granulation tissue and enhancing wound reduction.

Arginine is required by all tissues for cytoplasmic protein

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biosynthesis and is indispensable during critical illness and severe trauma. It has beneficial effects on the healing process by positively affecting microvascular and perfusion changes, protein synthesis, cell proliferation, and signalling by proline and polyamine synthesis. [7173] It is also a precursor of nitric oxide (NO), which is synthesised in the early phase of wound healing by inflammatory cells. NO has been shown to regulate collagen formation, cell proliferation and wound contraction and thus improve healing. [27, 28, 55, 56]

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Arginine supplementation significantly increases hydroxyproline and collagen levels in the epidermis and elevates the DNA content of the dermis, all of which improves wound breaking strength and collagen deposition. A synergistic combination of arginine, glutamine and

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beta-hydroxy-beta-methylbutyrate improves collagen synthesis and reduces muscle wasting in cancer patients. [79, 80] Arginine can stimulate the immune system, accelerates wound healing and decreases the rate of tumour growth and significantly improved the long-term overall survival and long-term diseasespecific survival in malnourished patients with head and neck cancer. [25, 33, 34] The requirement for dietary arginine is increased in catabolic disease states such as starvation, injury or sepsis. [23] However, citrulline (precursor to arginine synthesis) is more effective than arginine in maintaining nitrogen homeostasis.

[26]

Omega 3 Fatty Acids – Dietary supplementation with omega 3 fatty acids generally shifts the production of prostaglandins to a more anti-inflammatory and less immunosuppressive mode. [86] However, during wound healing fish oils containing DHA/EPA increased the p r e l i m i n a r y inflammatory response of wound healing which was associated with an increase of collagen deposition in the wound.

[87] Several prospective randomised double-blind studies in cancer patients undergoing major upper gastrointestinal surgery were supplemented with a diet rich in arginine, nucleic acid foods and omega 3 fatty acids.

These cancer patients demonstrated significant improvements in postoperative immunological responses, a reduction in the frequency of infection and wound complication and a shorter length of hospital stay. [112,113]

Vitamin C is a major cofactor in the hydroxylation of proline and lysine in the synthesis of connective tissue. The profound effect of scurvy on connective tissue and wound healing is evidence for the role of vitamin C in these reactions. Vitamin C also plays a critical role in wound repair, participating in the synthesis of collagen and mucopolysaccharides and subsequent cross-linking of the fibres to give new tissue strength to damaged tissue. [54 -56, 69]

Vitamin C supplementation (7gm/day) also enhances the anastomotic and jejunal resistance i.e. it increases the strength of the anastomotic healing in bowel cancer.

Vitamin C supplementation prior, during and after surgery in cancer patients has the added effect that it can prevent metastasis by:

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Enhancing the immune system Stimulating collagen formation necessary for walling of tumours Inhibiting hyaluronidase, which keeps the ground substance around the tumour intact and thus prevents metastasis Preventing the expression of oncogenic viruses Correcting the vitamin C deficiency that is often seen in cancer patients Reducing the free radical production associated with surgery Reducing the expression or preventing various types of tumours – b l a d d e r, b r e a s t , cervical, colorectal, oesophageal, lung, pancreatic, prostate, salivary gland and stomach, leukaemia and non-Hodgkin's lymphoma

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Zinc supplementation accelerates wound healing and growth and promotes an effective immune response. A deficiency in zinc can cause impaired immunity, poor appetite and mental lethargy, delayed wound healing and taste and smell abnormalities. All body tissues contain zinc; in skin, it is five to six times more concentrated in the epidermis than the dermis. It is an essential element of more than 200 metalloenzymes, including the antioxidant enzyme, superoxide dismutase, and affects their conformity, stability and activity. [90, 92] Topical administration of zinc appears to be superior to oral therapy due to its action in reducing super-infections and necrotic material via enhanced local defence systems and collagenolytic activity, and the sustained release of zinc ions that stimulates epithelialisation of wounds in normozincemic individuals.

Zinc oxide in paste bandages protects and soothes inflamed peri-ulcer skin. Zinc is transported through the skin from these formulations, although the systemic effects seem insignificant. [89]

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Reductions in vitamin C levels in post-operative patients may be an important factor in the pathogenesis of post-operative wound complications in surgical patients. A double-blind trial demonstrated a faster reduction in pressure-sore areas when 1 gram/day of vitamin C was given for one month in patients recovering from surgery who had sustained bedsores. It was found that large doses of vitamin C could alleviate pain, shorten the healing period and reduce the time interval necessary for grafting in five male subjects with severe burns.

Copper facilitates angiogenesis by inducing the expression of vascular endothelial growth factor in wounds as wells as in the synthesis and stabilisation of extracellular matrix skin proteins, resulting in early contraction and closure of wounds. Topically applied copper sulphate or copper oxide impregnated dressings have been shown to accelerate wound healing. [91, 93]

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Copper ions activate several proangiogenic factors, e.g. vascular endothelial growth factor, basic fibroblast growth factor, tumour

APJ 110

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necrosis factor alpha and interleukin 1. [93, 100, 101] Note: Copper plays an important role in promoting physiological and malignant angiogenesis. Formation of new blood vessels by a tumour enables tumour growth, invasion and metastasis are copper-requiring processes. It is a cofactor in function of VEGF.

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There is a significant increase in the mean total serum copper levels and the serum Cu/Zn ratio in all patient groups with cancer (lung (PC), breast (BC), gastrointestinal tract (GIC), and gynaecological (GYNC) malignancy) compared to control groups. The copper chelator tetrathiomolybdate (TM), which quickly and effectively depletes copper stores, is an effective anti-angiogenic agent. [102]

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Oxygen: The state of wound oxygenation is a key determinant of healing outcomes. Optimising wound perfusion and providing supplemental O2 in the perioperative period reduces the incidence of postoperative infections.

Correction of wound pO2 (partial pressure of oxygen in the wound tissue) may, by itself, trigger healing responses. [47, 48] Vascular complications commonly associated with problematic wounds are primarily responsible for wound ischemia. Limitations in the ability of the vasculature to deliver 02-rich blood to the wound tissue leads to, among other consequences, hypoxia.

Hypoxia represents a reduction in oxygen delivery below tissue demand, whereas ischemia is a lack of perfusion, characterised not only by hypoxia, but also by insufficient nutrient supply.

The major factors that contribute to wound-tissue hypoxia: [50]

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Peripheral vascular diseases (PVDs) garroting 02 supply.

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Increased 02 demand of the healing tissue.

Generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) by way of respiratory burst and for redox signalling.

Arterial hypoxia (e.g., pulmonary fibrosis or pneumonia, sympathetic response to pain, hypothermia, anaemia caused by major blood loss, cyanotic heart disease, high altitude.

Depending on the above factors, it is important to recognise that wound hypoxia may range anywhere from near-anoxia to mild-modest hypoxia.

Furthermore, the magnitude of wound hypoxia is not uniformly distributed throughout the affected tissue, especially in large wounds.

This is most likely the case in chronic wounds presented clinically.

Tissue at the near-anoxic pockets will be vulnerable to necrosis, which in turn may propagate secondary tissue damage and infection. Pockets of extreme hypoxia may be flooded with hypoxia-inducible angiogenic factors, but would fail to functionally vascularise because of insufficient oxygen that is necessary to fuel the repair process. Indeed, uncontrolled expression of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and its receptors leads to insufficient skin angiogenesis.

Pockets of moderate or mild hypoxia are likely to be the point of origin of successful angiogenic response as long as other barriers such as infection and epigenetic alterations are kept to a minimum.

Conditions for collagen deposition and polymerisation can be created only if molecular O2 is available to be incorporated into the structure of nascent collagen by prolyl- and lysyl hydroxylases. Without the obligatory extracellular, hydroxylated collagen, new capillary tubes assemble poorly and remain fragile. Vitamin C being a co-factor for the activity of these enzymes is essential for optimum healing together with molecular oxygen. One without the other results in poor healing and loss of tensile strength of the wound. Hypoxic wounds deposit collagen poorly and become infected easily, both of which are problems of considerable clinical significance. [49]

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EDITOR'S NOTE: This article in an excerpt of Henry Osiecki's original article by the same name. As the scientific references were five pages long they could not be included in this article. If you would like a copy of the original article and full references please email the editor on info@apanetwork.com

Henry Osiecki is considered as one of Australia's leading biochemists. He was a speaker at the recent A5M Anti-Ageing Conference in Melbourne.

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APJ 111

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Seven Vital Facts you should know when seeking FINANCIAL ASSISTANCE

by Chrish Samuels As businesses identify the need to grow, often cash flow is the primary stumbling block that prohibits them from purchasing plant or equipment. We are aware that financial lending has tightened, with many suppliers and salons feeling the restriction and frustrated with the limitations this brings in going forward.

One of the Strategic Partners that APAN has established is a specialist in exactly this area. Chrish Samuels is an experienced professional in the area of business financing. When in discussion with him we identified some interesting facts that could offer great benefit to the industry. Through this interview we trust you will gain a better understanding of the current financial lending environment and the options that are available to you.

experience, and who can look at the 'bigger picture'.

They need to consider:

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Risk Your cash-flow requirements Your business structure Related tax issues Residual values, and more

Don't fall into the trap of believing the same organisation that specialises in your housing finance will know all of the industry's quirks and idiosyncrasies when it comes to plant and equipment business finance.

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Q1. Chrish, is seeking Plant and Equipment Business Finance a specialised area or is it just like seeking finance for anything else?

Chrish: Finding the right lender, the best finance structure and putting together a complete equipment finance package requires knowledge and experience. Unfortunately, finance seekers often naively believe anyone in the finance industry can put together an effective package for plant and equipment business finance. You need plant and equipment finance specialists who have years of industry

Q2. Can a ‘one-size-fits-all’ approach to plant and equipment financing lead to any problems further down the line?

Chrish: Each business is unique. Whatever industry you are in, or size of your operations, you have your own specific needs and priorities. Although despite the individuality of each business there is at least one thing that each has in common – a need to stay ahead and be on the lookout for smarter ways of doing things. You need solutions

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that help you maximise resources now, yet allow the flexibility to capitalise on future opportunities.

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This not only applies to day-to-day business planning, but your financial requirements as well. You would be wise to research, or have an independent finance specialist check out a wide range of finance structures and lenders to ensure you find the best fit for your business needs – including needs for innovative products, vehicle, plant and equipment, cash-flow financing, etc.

Q3. What should one look for when they are seeking the safest route for a financial specialist?

Chrish: Selection of the correct financial structure and therefore the

As an independent they focus solely on you, answering your questions and seeking your financial solutions effectively and efficiently, resulting in quick approvals and less stress on you.

Q4. What are the benefits of having an experienced representative in the Lending Industry present your finance application for you?

Chrish: Just as you are a specialist in your chosen field, there are specialists who know the finance industry, while others who have 'niched' down even further to specific types of finance. With such knowledge available to you through these specialists, it almost seems ridiculous you spending needless hours researching everything there is to know about the finance you wish to apply for. Do you really need that sort of distraction from running your own business operations? If you understand the not-so flattering saying, “Why bark when you've got a dog?” then you know exactly what leaving the job for a specialist is all about.

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There are benefits to having a representative present your finance application, and when considering one for plant and equipment business finance ensure the consultant: ! Specialises in plant and equipment business finance ! Understands your business needs ! Takes your future business growth or planned consolidation into account ! Compares your finance options ! Explains what you need to know using terms that 'non-financial people’ understand (there's nothing more frustrating than jargonfilled explanations) ! Does all the hard work of presenting your application to the chosen lender ! Works with you, and for you – not for the finance company!

Q5. What options are there available to businesses in our industry for plant and equipment business finance solutions?

Chrish: Often financial seekers only know of one or two avenues available to them when securing finance. As you've now discovered, a 'one size fits all' mentality does not always work to your benefit.

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Asset Lease An Asset Lease enables you to have the use of your business equipment with the benefits of ownership, while the financier retains actual ownership of the equipment.

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Commercial Hire Purchase

most suitable lender is paramount to ensure maximum commercial benefit from your plant and equipment business finance. An independent financial specialist can find the right solution for your business, taking into account your business structure, tax and cashflow requirements and risk. As they act solely on your behalf there are no hidden agendas that will cost you in the future. A reputable specialist will look for any 'loopholes' or not so beneficial conditions that you may miss when viewing financial documents and 'terms and conditions'.

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Below are some financial solutions you may not have been aware of.

And remember each has their own unique advantages (e.g. tax benefits) or disadvantages (e.g. ownership of goods).

Commercial Hire Purchase is a finance product where you hire the business equipment from the financier for a fixed monthly repayment over a set period of time and ownership transfers after the last instalment is made.

Chattel Mortgage Under a Chattel Mortgage you take ownership of the equipment (chattel) at the time of purchase and the financier uses goods as security until the last repayment is made.

Equipment Rental Equipment Rental is an agreement between you and a financier, whereby the financier buys the equipment on behalf of you and rents it back to you under a contract agreement.

Your Plant and Equipment Business Finance Specialist will help you determine which solution will best suit your needs.

Q6. What areas can an aesthetic business or a supplier for the industry gain finance for?

Chrish: The list is endless and can include:

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Motor Cars and Motor Cycles Industrial Plant and Machinery Computers, IT and Phone Equipment Fit-outs for Commercial Offices, etc.

Healthcare, Scientific and Medical Equipment New Business Start-Up Cash Back for Investment Cash-Flow Finance

Q7. If you have a Non-Conforming Credit History are there still options available to you?

Chrish: Sadly, too often small business is largely ignored by the business finance industry, simply because they don't fit the 'financial applicant norm'. This attitude turns small business away from applying for credit and therefore stunts potential growth in the long term.

If your business falls into the category of not fitting the norm, don't be deterred from getting the financial assistance you need. An independent plant and equipment business finance consultant will do their best to help you. Who knows, they may be able to find the finance option that the others can't long after the mainstream lenders stop talking to you?

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Chrish Samuels is the Managing Director of Samuel Financial Solution, a division of the Samuel Group. If you would like to discuss your business financial needs please phone 1800 726 835.

Make sure you mention APAN to receive your discount.

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Laser Safety Officers Certification (LSO) and all are Government accredited, or in the process of final Government Accreditation.

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Q3. What devices do you use and what treatment options do you offer?

Janine: At present we use only

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An innovative solution to offering IPL Treatments in your salon

Palomar Starlux machines which have the capability of IPL and Laser all in the one machine, However we are in the process of adding new Laser-specific machines during 2011/2012. All of our machines can treat for hair reduction, skin rejuvenation, removal of unsightly capillaries and also provide Fractional facial treatments.

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Janine Treacy It is an undisputable fact that light-based therapies such as laser and IPL are very much in demand, and every successful salon ensures that they are offering these services as the demand is very much customer driven. However, purchasing the equipment and investing in the necessary training is sometimes outside of the financial reach of some establishments, at least under the current financially challenging times. And so, during difficult times you need to think outside the box.

One company that has identified the need to provide IPL and Laser services to salons as an external service provider is Laser Express.

Over the years they have fine-tuned their operations and perfected their techniques in providing in-house treatment for many salons who can't afford to invest in their own machines. We caught up with Janine Treacy, the Director of Laser Express, to share with us how the system works.

Q1. Tell us a little about who is Laser Express, what services do you offer and how do you operate?

Janine: Laser Express was established in 2002 after I identified

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many salons wanted to offer their clients high-end treatments, such as IPl and Laser, but were unable to afford the initial outlay for such machines, which usually cost anywhere from $90,000 to $200,000.

While many salons are successful and need to step up their clients' treatments, their financial figures may still not support such an investment, as these devices are often very expensive. Laser Express evolved by offering these services on a monthly basis to salons and profit share the takings. We provide the IPL or Laser machines and qualified technicians to deliver the treatment to the salon's clients on a one-day-a-month basis. The way it works is the salon promotes the treatments to their clients, while Laser Express provides eye-catching point of sale material and we train the salon staff how to promote these service.

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Q2. What qualifications do you require from your operators and what assurance do you offer salons that your services will meet with their clients' expectations?

Janine: All Laser Express staff are qualified Beauty Therapists who have undergone extensive training here and overseas. All staff have

Q4. Can you give us some indication of business growth that salons can expect from your services?

Janine: One of the best revenue makers is Fractional facial treatments. Clients can see results immediately and results continue to improve as time goes by. At $1200 per treatment, salons can expect to recoup 30% of that.

Q5. Do you cover your own insurance or does the salon provide for this?

Janine: All salons receive 30 per cent of the day's takings and we cover the cost of full comprehensive insurance, promotional material and the cost of the machine. Most salons report an immediate growth within 2-3 months of starting, and we find an average day’s takings can be anywhere from $1500 to $6000 per day, or $450-$1800 commission to the salon owner. Over a year this can equate to $5500 to $20000 extra revenue.

Q6. In your opinion how do your treatments complement the services a salon may be offering?

Janine: Our technicians assist the salon by up-selling in-salon services and only recommend the products used in the salon, giving added revenue to the salon. Contrary to some beliefs, IPL does not interfere with profitable waxing services. During the past nine years we have found that our services complement the salon services, especially for rejuvenation treatments where the salon can continue to offer a series of their treatments before and even after our services are completed. Testament to that is we still have salons with us today who joined us nine years ago and they are still going strong and growing their businesses.

SPECIAL OFFER: If you would like to engage Laser Express to service your client with laser ad IPL treatments, Laser Express will offer you a 40% commission instead of 30% to salon owners who are APAN Members. They will also offer a $1500 advertising package for free. For further details contact Laser Express - see adjourning page for details.

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APJ 114

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Bioelements ticks all the boxes for your business

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Professional Product Formulations

Complete results-driven range of product that combine the best of science and nature for all skin types and conditions

Custom-Blending

Utilises unique custom-blending lab to target both in-salon treatments and homecare regime to client's specific concerns

Certified Organic Range

All Things Pure was launched recently for the purist client who won't compromise on their all natural, organic product preference

Business Builders

Help your business to grow with support, samples, posters, displays, marketing materials, education programs and more.

Value for Money

Generous salon retail margins and low cost per service in the treatment room all support greater salon profitability. Multiple entry levels for all budgets.

Call us today to learn how Bioelements can work for you, your business and your clients.

www.absolutespa.com.au 1300 262 275

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