APJ Vol 19 2013

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2013

Summer Issue Volume 19.

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Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

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AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal

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The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Summer Issue Volume 19. 2013

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The New Era in

CLINICAL AESTHETICS has Arrived

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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS

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8-9 44-45

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46-48 76-70 87-91 96-97 102 103 120

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CEO’s Heart-2-Heart Report The role of epidermal growth factors in Sun damage reversal and skin rejuvenation Commoditisation – The new Threat or Foe Aesthetic Industry Bulletin Product Innovations Dermal Essence – Rediscover your skin Member Profile Member Profile APAN Travel Insurance

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REGULATIONS, EDUCATION AND TRAINING 36-37 66-67

The Power of Light The Role of Cortisol in skin health, weight management and longevity 92-93 Nutrients that benefit the skin 112-114 Another amazing nutrient from the sea – Astaxanthin 114-115 Benchmarks and how the Tax Office assesses your income 116-118 Mechanisms and protocols that stimulate or inhibit fibroblast activity in wound and cell repair

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 12-13

The Role of Genome, Peptides and their contribution to antiageing skincare 22 Magnesium for healthy skin and body 34-35 Lifting and Rebuilding Structure for the Skin From Within 38 Science validates the superiority of Fish Oil supplements when delivered in Triglyceride Form 40 GliSODin – The Antioxidant Catalyst for Sun Protection and Immune Defence 56-58 Digital Smile Design 70-74 Taking the heat out of menopausal skin and successful strategies for effective anti-ageing solutions 108-110 Scientific News

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 20 24-26 30-32 42 40-51 52-53 64-65 80-86 94-95

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APAN

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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE

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2014

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Ask the Expert Cover story Why Sales is not a four-letter word The top seven ways to avoid Malpractice Pathways to Profitability The five keys to increasing revenue in your business Splash Retail – the new concept in retailing The Birth of a Global Leading Brand – VitaMan How to avoid the Bargain Hunters and the New Vogue in Business-Growth strategies 98-99 Smartphone Apps for your Business 104-107 Business News 111 Book Review – Drive, the power of execution

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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES

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16-19 21 60-62

APAN Conference and Expo Event – Sydney APAN Australian Aesthetics Conference 2014 A5M Delivers another successful conference

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EDITOR’SNOTE

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As we come to the close of another year I trust that you will be motivated by a spirit of optimism and make the most of the summer and festive season trading. Several statistics point to an increase in consumer confidence since the federal election, and we trust you will take advantage of this and plan to step up your services and increase your business turnover.

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It's amazing, but optimism is so infectious and psychologists also tell us that people gravitate to those who always look at life with an attitude of positive expectations.

As our industry continues to grow in new innovations and advanced technologies, higher education is now centre stage and beckons the industry to rise and respond to the need for more advanced knowledge and skills. We are delighted to feature as our cover story in this issue the launch of a new degree qualification. The Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) is a newgeneration degree program that incorporates some amazing units that will prepare therapists for the future. This is a proud moment for the industry, and having been involved with its development, I can vouch that its content will not only be comprehensive, but in some ways more up-to-date than other qualifications available.

Change is a good thing when you are given the tools that will better equip you to deal with it. Gaining such a qualification will empower the industry to undertake more serious procedures with a newfound confidence and ability to meet the higher demands of consumers.

In this issue of APJ we feature several articles on business that will give you the ability to market yourself more successfully. LED is also featured – as this is a technology that is gaining momentum as new innovations and research are bringing to the forefront its amazing capabilities as an excellent non-invasive modality that can substantially accelerate healing as well as cell turnover and skin rejuvenation.

New research in nutrition and sun protection is also identifying how certain nutrients such as GliSODin can act as a valuable catalyst in defending the skin against sun damage and the body against free-radical damage. Check this article out.

APAN's on-going conference programs are continuing to bring valuable information to the industry to ensure you are kept up-to-date with new developments. I hope the report on the latest A5M conference will also inspire you.

http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page http://twitter.com/#!/apanetwork CTITIO NE PRA @apanetwork S

APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

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Enjoy our summer issue of APJ and allow us to continue to support and inspire you to achieve the success you are working so hard for.

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AESTHETIC

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There has never been a more exciting time in the aesthetics industry, and while innovations are raising the bar in consumer expectations you are not left without support. New educational pathways are currently being expanded both in the tertiary realm and the VET sector as new postgraduate units are also currently being finalised to support the industry's position. This is an area that is worth investing in as it will help you secure your future success.

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Editor

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Welcome to APJ

Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

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Typesetting & Graphics

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Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

National Advisory Council ㄰ 㤵 㜵

John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-981 ㈵

Print Post Approved [100000257]

Circulation 6900

FRONT COVER The Australasian College of Health and Wellness Delivering the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) Please contact the Head of Faculty Associate Professor Sinan Ali Phone: 02 8587 8888 See pages 24-26 for details

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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The road to success is not straight. There is a curve called Failure, a loop called Confusion, speed bumps called Friends, red lights called Enemies, caution lights called Family. But if you have a spare called Determination, an engine called Perseverance, insurance called Faith, a driver called your Conscience, you will make it to a place called Success.

T.E Boyd

CEO’s Heart-2-Heart REPORT

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Dear colleagues and friends As we come to the end of another year it is a good time to reflect on what we achieved and how we wish to move forward in the coming year.

It is my honest belief that 2014 will be a better year with greater opportunities and I don't base that on just altruism and a positive attitude (as much as these are helpful), but on certain facts, which I will explain.

Whatever side of politics you support it is an objective fact, supported by several business reports that I have sighted that consumer confidence is on the rise. Businesses are also gaining a level of optimism in the market and prepared for better days ahead.

Our industry will have a new degree program as well as several new advanced diplomas to assist professionals to upgrade their skills and knowledge so that they can better address consumer demand for higher expectations.

Technology has never offered us faster, safer and more efficient capabilities to deliver new levels of treatment outcomes.

As I have mentioned in my industry report on pages 46-48 several surveys are confirming that the demand for anti-ageing services in continuing to rise with figures estimated at 18% per year. This trends offer great opportunities for us to capture this market by addressing their needs.

Men's skincare is also another niche market that is progressively growing, not just with the Baby Boomers, but now even the younger male generation are more comfortable with owning their own grooming and skincare products. This is another area that will only continue to grow and our article on VitaMan on pages 80-86 should give you evidence and insight into this.

Meanwhile, several businesses that could not cope with the pressures of the economic downturn have either closed their doors, or downsized to a home-based business. We have had many members report to us that due to this phenomenon their businesses are gaining new clients who are still seeking professional treatments and services as salons and clinics disappear in their region.

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New opportunities in 2014 will continue to present themselves and those who are astute will take advantage of them. Just looking through this issue of APJ you will identify some excellent products that can help you meet the consumer demand for higher standards. We now have better tools to deliver our services in an even better way and with more advanced results.

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REASSESS YOUR CURRENT OFFERINGS

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Before you decide on your marketing strategies for 2014 I recommend that you take some time to review your services and products and determine if you can at all improve what you are currently

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offering. If you have not done this exercise for a while you will probably identify new areas that you can introduce and make your services more appealing to your clients. If you are not sure and would like an objective expert opinion and someone to discuss this with, then contact APAN and make a time to speak to me, I would be delighted to assist you (this service is available for free for APAN members). Once you feel excited and confident that what you are offering meets with up-to-date industry standards, then is the time to put together an excellent marketing and promotional plan.

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UPDATE ON THE NATIONAL WORKFORCE DEVELOPMENT FUND - GREAT NEW! As I mentioned in my previous report APAN was invited to take on the position of lead organisation as part of National Workforce Development Fund. This program offered salons the opportunity to improve their staff's skills and knowledge through formal qualification. We were required to select four Registered Training Organisations to deliver training and to select a qualification. Our choice was the accredited SIB701 Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction, a qualification that will substantial assist salons to improve their productivity through a government co-contribution funding initiative.

We are pleased to report that we have just received news from Service Skills that the APAN submission with 100 applicants has just been approved by the assessment panel. It was also confirmed that we scored highly with a recommendation that we would be considered for future funding. Our submission will now need to receive the Minister’s signature for funding allocation and then the training can commence.

There are four training providers who will be delivering this training.

These are Beauty Therapy Training Australia on the Gold Coast, Queensland, AKISS College from Brisbane Queensland, AACDS from Western Australia and Fuss College in NSW. Applications have come to us from every State and the order of selection has been chronologically determine in order to be fair to everyone. As there is only provision for funding for 100 applicants some will unfortunately be missing out.

This is the first time that the government has invited the beauty industry to participate in such a project and we trust that the successful applicants will determine to complete their training.

LEGISLATION FOR IPL AND LASER FOR COSMETIC PURPOSES ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Since May last year APAN was invited to participate as part of the Working Group with the Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency (ARPANSA) together with other stakeholders (most of which are representing the interest of medical groups). The objective of this project was to ensure that a suitable uniform approach is taken across all jurisdictions to ensure that IPLs and lasers used for cosmetic purposes are used appropriately and the risk for injury and mistreatment is minimised. The outcome from this project will be that a preferred option to achieve this is selected. Currently the working group has agreed on a proposed option and the final draft is in the process of being completed and submitting to the Radiation Health Commissioner for consideration.

Hopefully, by the time the next journal will be published, which is in March 2014 we should have an outcome to report to you.

My advice at this point to anyone who is currently performing IPL or laser treatments is to seriously consider investing in any formal qualifications, such as the nationally accredited SIB701 Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction as any regulation that may transpire from this project will most definitely look at formal qualifications as a necessary requirement.

CONNECTING WITH YOU We are looking forward to giving you three conferences in 2014, this time we are planning to conduct them in Hobart, Tasmania, Perth, Western Australia and Sydney, NSW. These programs are an excellent opportunity for you to meet us and to gain high quality, credible education and gain industry insight and information on current trends. Please plan to join us and benefit from these events.

You will also meet some amazing people that you can network with.

However, for great support year round, make sure you join as a member of APAN. We will not only help you save money, but you can also rest assured that at any given time when you need help or advice there will always be someone you can turn to who can take your needs seriously and offer you valuable support and advice.

May your year end with joy and laughter and may 2014 bring you every success and prosperity.

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My best wishes and Merry Christmas to you all. 㜵

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Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

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Since 2011 of Australian women have switched to less expensive skincare *The Skinstitut Australia, Skincare & Lifestyle Survey 2013

Experts in skin 02 9460 7559 | skinstitut.com

all products

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Australian made and Australian owned

Experts in skin 02 9460 7559 | skinstitut.com

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THE ROLE OF GENOME, PEPTIDES and their contribution to Anti-Ageing Skincare

By Tina Viney No longer a novel approach to anti-ageing, the use of peptides in skincare formulations has become commonplace. However, finding an effective peptide skincare product is not as easy as simply scanning the label for mention of this ingredient. With several categories of peptides used in skincare formulations, it is important to help clients understand the improvements they hope to see in their skin before selecting a product.

WHAT ARE PEPTIDES?

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To understand what a peptide is, one needs to have a basic understanding of protein structure. Protein is made up of different amino acids, much like words are made up of different letters. The structure of a given protein is defined by its amino acid composition, just like words are defined by the letters that make them up. Similarly, peptides are defined by virtue of their constituent amino acids, and their specific sequence. However, the key difference between peptides and proteins is essentially one of size. Peptides are classified as containing 50 amino acids or less, whereas protein can contain anywhere from 50 to several thousand amino acids.

Found naturally in every cell and tissue, peptides play various roles in the body, depending upon the amino acids it is comprised of and their sequence on the chain. Some help to regulate bodily functions and processes, while others act like antibiotics to kill bacteria, or as analgesics to reduce pain.

SYNTHETIC PEPTIDES AND SKINCARE FORMULATIONS In skincare formulations, the three types of synthetic peptides used include single, carrier and neurotransmitter peptides. Signalling

peptides stimulate the growth of proteins, including collagen and elastin, which give the skin structure and elasticity. They are also capable of reducing the loss of skin firmness by regulating the enzymes that break down these proteins.

The most common signalling peptide used in skincare products is palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl®). Those who wish to improve the firmness and texture of skin while diminishing the signs of fine lines should look for products that feature peptides in this category.

Carrier peptides deliver trace elements needed for wound-healing and skin-repair processes. An example is copper peptide GHK-Cu, one of the first peptides to be used in skincare formulations. Studies have shown that carrier peptides like GHK-Cu are beneficial in activating the process of healing and rebuilding skin tissue. This is also called the skin-remodelling response. Those who wish to diminish the signs of photodamage while diminishing fine lines should look for products that feature peptides in this category.

Neurotransmitter peptides, also called neuropeptides, inhibit muscle contraction by blocking the receptors that signal this action. When used in skincare formulations, the intention of neuropeptides is to reduce the appearance of expression lines, such as those found between the eyebrows or around the mouth. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline®) is one of the more prevalent neuropeptides used in skincare today.

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Because the function of peptides can be as varied as the possible combinations of amino acids, the horizon for peptide researchers is great. For example, peptides are proving beneficial in the treatment of rosacea, eczema, and even hair loss (alopecia).

While the benefits of these peptides certainly sound convincing, they present several challenges to skincare formulators.

We need to understand that it is difficult for peptides to be absorbed into the skin. Not only do they have a large molecular size, they are also hydrophilic, preventing them from penetrating the skin's stratum corneum, the cells of which are surrounded by a lipid (fat) barrier.

Furthermore, the skin contains enzymes, which break down the peptides that are absorbed. In the past decade, researchers have spent a great deal of time modifying synthetic peptides and developing effective delivery systems to overcome these issues. Examples of these solutions include encapsulation, the addition of a fatty acid component to the chain, nanotechnology, and the development of cellpenetrating peptides (CPPs). These challenges point to the importance of using products with proven peptides in their formulation.

Peptides are beneficial tools in the fight against the telltale signs of ageing. While impressive studies that support their ability to improve the skin do exist, the outcomes are often not in line with consumer expectations that are used to the effects of injectables such as Botox.

NATURALLY DERIVED PEPTIDES Science, however, has achieved a further breakthrough. They have identifying naturally derived peptides such as Undaria pinnatfida, which is extracted from brown macro-algae. Peptides derived from marine algae are now gaining momentum. Rich in minerals, they often provide the value of micronutrients that contribute to a high synergy of nutrient communication. Isolating extracts have been studied identifying some amazing capabilities.

CODIF Recherche et Nature is a group of research laboratories located in Brittany in the Bay of Mont Saint Michel, France, who are inspired by the marine environment every day to develop new innovations. The company is dedicated to providing the cosmetics industry with 100% natural raw materials that also respect marine biodiversity. They identify actives that enhance the skin with all the benefits of the original mechanisms developed by the algae or plants they are derived from.

Researchers at CODIF discovered a sulphated glactofucan called wakamic ester. This new molecule is able to activate 14 genes involved in the synthesis and organisation of the main components of the extracellular matrix: collagen, elastin and proteoglycan.

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While scientists are unravelling the power of nature and developing novel new skincare ingredients, the new science of genomics is driving major biological and medical research innovations in the 21st century. Researchers are now focused on rapidly moving findings from research to the clinical laboratory for management of patient disease, and even identifying the mechanisms that contribute to skin ageing.

As we know, genomics is the study not just of the individual genes of an organism, but of the whole genome, the entire complement of genetic material of an individual. In fact, genomics extends to the study of gene expression – the copying of DNA to RNA and ultimately its expression as a protein, in populations as well as individuals. The tools of the genomic revolution are used to investigate the DNA (both coding and non-coding), RNA and proteins of humans, animals, plants and microbes.

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HOW EPIGENETICS INFLUENCES THE SKIN In studying how genes are expressed science is now identifying ways to up-regulate silenced genes that are important to human health and skin integrity.

Methyl groups, which turn genes on and off, attach to DNA and are responsible for determining what “recipe” the body will follow. One source of methyl groups is folic acid. For example, folic acid contains raw materials for the body to cover up damaged DNA or DNA it doesn't want to use. A deficiency of folic acid during pregnancy can cause neural tube defects. That's why women considering pregnancy are encouraged to take folic acid to avoid birth defects.

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Antioxidants prevent DNA damage, which is why they are added to cosmeceuticals. Since it is impossible to track the results of one cosmeceutical on the skin 20 years later to determine its effectiveness, this epigenetic research is helping scientists better understand how diet and certain ingredients affect skin health on a cellular level, providing insight into what are the best formulations and combinations of ingredients for skincare products.

WHAT'S OLD IS NEW AGAIN Aquaporins are protein molecules embedded in the phospholipid bilayer or cell membrane of some cells that regulate the flow of water.

Aquaporins are currently being studied to understand how cosmeceutical ingredients can benefit the skin. These proteins line the walls of the cells and allow water to flow in and out of the cell – much like a water spout.

Glycerin, which is a long-standing compound used for decades in skincare products for its ability to add moisture to the skin, is now better understood in terms of how it works as a skincare ingredient through the study of its interaction with aquaporins. In fact, glycerinbased moisturisers are becoming increasingly popular. This timetested ingredient is being researched for its potential in improving cosmeceuticals that are used today.

Dr. Draelos, a primary investigator at Dermatology Consulting Services in North Carolina, USA, stated: “This next generation of genomic-based research is helping us determine not only what ingredients may work best for specific skin types, but how what we eat now, and throughout our life, can affect our skin as well. Science holds the key to helping us make better recommendations based on this newfound knowledge.”

IN CONCLUSION As science and medicine gain a better understanding of the mechanisms of disease and ageing, much of this information will also benefit the cosmetic industry. I believe in the next decade we will see some amazing new innovations that will challenge what we ever thought possible in terms of improved skin conditions and overall skin health and vitality.

Aestheticians and dermal therapists will no doubt be the beneficiaries of some of these discoveries. However, to fully understand how these innovations can be best utilised in our practices, post-graduate education and higher education will be the most credible vehicle to enhance our knowledge and skills and position us as the qualified experts in the new era of technological breakthroughs, appearance enhancement and anti-ageing.

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Ref: www.skincarephysicians.com

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Naturally derived Peptides – Guardians of Genomic Integrity Just as a horse whisperer tames and soothes the animal through skilful and caring communication, so the SKIN WHISPERER achieves cell-to-cell communication that activates and up-regulates 14 genes associated with collagen and elastin expression through a unique newgeneration peptide harnessed from brown macro-algae. Additionally, four plant stem cells have also been added to a powerfully stimulating, revolutionary anti-ageing complex that further activates natural growth factors giving the skin a new lease of life.

pinnatifida extract was found to reactivate genes linked to collagen and elastin expression and to stimulate proteins involved in collagen maturation, such as: ! Prolyl 4-hydroxylase P4HA1 (+61%) and P4HA2 (+30%), which both have an effect on the early stage of post-translation of collage modification. ! Lysyl oxydase LOX (+50%) and Lysyl oxydase-like 2 LOXL2 (+43%), which have an effect on later stages of collagen synthesis.

The core idea of the SKIN WHISPERER meets the HORSE WHISPERER symbolises the meaning of nature around us – soothing and healing through gentle, yet effective communication that is delivered with kindness and love, and centred on a respect for flora and fauna as well as humanity.

In addition it was found to stimulate expression of Collagen 1 and Collagen 8 by +37% , Lumican by 72%, which is a proteoglycan of the SLRP, which bind collage fibres to control their organisation.

The wounded animal is healed through gentleness and positive, caring communication from the horse whisperer – a powerful person with perseverance and generosity. Likewise, the skin achieves restoration through gentle, yet powerful natural compounds that activate DNA repair and restore youthfulness.

WHAT IS UNIQUE ABOUT THE SKIN WHISPERER? ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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The Skin Whisperer utilises a newly discovered peptide known as Undaria pinnatifida, also called wakame, which is a brown macroalgae. Research has identified a compound in this aglae – sulphated galactofucan, also called wakamic ester. This new molecule is able to up-regulate the genes involved in the synthesis and organisation of the main components of the extracellular matrix – collagen, elastin and proteoglycan. Tests also confirmed that 14 genes involved in restructuring the dermal matrix were reactivated.

The effect of Undaria pinnatifida extract on gene expression of the extracellular matrix has been evaluated on human dermal fibroblasts cultivated with 2% of the active ingredient for 24 hours. The Undaria

SKIN WHISPERER contains revolutionary, high-performance ingredients that convey powerful cell-to-cell communication within the skin. The dermis responds by becoming more firm and rejuvenated, plumping up the appearance to the skin and smoothing out lines and wrinkles as the repair mechanisms in the skin are stimulated.

Creating something unique and aligned with the legend of the Holy Grail, Mila d'Opiz Laboratories have succeeded in developing active ingredients in order to reach a step closer to “eternal youth”.

Skin Whisperer delivers an instant feeling of deep hydration.

Immediately on application the skin experiences an instant boost in appearance and feels incredibly soft with a wonderful glow. With long-term use, lines and wrinkles relax and skin hydration and skin plumping are substantially and noticeably improved. Skin Whisperer delivers serious skin improvement through a naturally-derived complex restoring its youthful glow.

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Phone Mila d'Opiz on 1300 464 523 info@miladopizaustralia.com.au | www.miladopizaustralia.com

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SKIN WHISPERER

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MORE THAN SKINCARE

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A revolutionary next generation anti-ageing formulation that breaks through previous boundaries and reaches one step closer to “eternal youth”

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Commemorating their Diamond Jubilee Mila D'Opiz celebrates the launch of the

SKIN WHISPERER ADVANCED BIOCHEMISTRY ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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! ! ! ! ! !

Delivers total skin rejuvenation Reverses the skin's ageing process Activates 14 collagen and elastic genes Stimulates cell-to-cell communication Boosts Natural Growth Factors Achieves intense Skin Matrix Repair

Multi Award-winning Ingredients

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Endorsed by Miss Switzerland 2007 Brand ambassador Amanda Ammann 㤵 㜵

Created By Nature Perfected By Science

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Phone: 1300 464 523 | Email info@miladopizaustralia.com.au | www.miladopizaustralia.com

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APAN's Conference and Expo event – Sydney The theme for this year's APAN Conference in Sydney was “Redefining Leadership in the Aesthetics World”. Held at the Novotel Sydney Central and coinciding with the Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo allowed delegates to attend both events over the two-day period.

Tina Viney opened the event presenting a compelling comparison between corporate skills and those of the traditional beauty salon or aesthetic clinic. The comparison graphically presented the diversity of skills needed to run a business, the need for external expert support, and an effective and credible business network to allow the business to manage the often complex problems in a more sustainable way.

Tina also presented the latest international trends in skincare formulations and technology, she stressed the importance of advanced knowledge that will allow the industry to more confidently determine their own area of specialisation so that they can establish a more clearly defined professional identity.

Professor Ray Hayek was also invited to briefly present on the importance of skills development and formal qualifications. He urged practitioners to consider the value of gaining new skills and knowledge that will assist them in their ability to face the challenges of the growing consumer expectations for more advanced anti-ageing results.

Gay Wardle discussed more advanced diagnostics that can allow the practitioner to identify the root of the problem and determined the best possible treatment options to achieve better treatment outcomes.

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Vera Emmi also covered the issue of skin diagnostics through the principles of meridians and how various acuPoints could address underlling systemic problems.

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Trevor Russell presented a highly motivating presentation on how to more effectively engage your clients and a more personable and compelling way to achieve great sales and business growth.

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Michael Bishop covered the allimportant and controversial topic of Independent Contracts and how to avoid pitfalls.

D a n B a z e r ' s presentation covered effective business strategies that can secure growth and profitability.

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A small group of quality product companies networked with delegates and contributed to a successful and resourceful day for all who participated, while some valuable relationships were established.

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In support of the industry's progress this year APAN conducted three Conference programs – Adelaide, Sydney and the Gold Coast. The focus of these events was to provide an intimate networking and educational environment for the benefit and the progress of the industry.

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If you haven't attended one of APAN's conference, we invite you to include us in your next year's calendar – we guarantee it will be well worth your investment.

For further information visit www.apanetwork.com/conference or email info@apanetwork.com and request to be included on our mailing list.

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I have a great relationship with my staff and we get on really well. Do I still need to have a workplace policy agreement, and if yes, why?

First, let me congratulate you for having a happy and cohesive team that gets on very well with you.

Unfortunately, circumstances change, and as a result people that are under your care may also change. Unless you have an agreement in place that defines the expectations of conduct you will have nothing objective to instigate any corrective mechanism, or to justify your position for that matter.

Expressing your position after the fact would be considered as an “opinion” by your staff member and not acknowledged as a “policy” that you expect them to abide by, as “a policy” should have been made clear from the beginning and they would be right in thinking so. In other words, you can't introduce a policy after an incident that you disagree with, as you will have no credible grounds to enforce it.

One very common example that comes to mind is when a staff member leaves and decides to tell all her clients who then decide to follow her. Unless you have a policy in place that states that “all clients have been engaged through the business's marketing and promotional initiatives and therefore must be respected as being the business's clients”, there would be nothing there to deter them from doing so. In their opinion, once they leave they are not required to be loyal to the business.

Your policy should state that “In the event that a staff member leaves they are not permitted to notify the clients they are servicing”. You should also have a policy that clients of the business are not to be contacted privately for business purposes without prior consent of the business. This is considered standard industry practice.

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Solutions, insights and advice for problems that arise at work

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ASK THE EXPERT ASK THE EXPERT

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The staff's conduct and expectations should be a separate document to your Policies and Procedures, which relate to the standards of how they deliver their services. Staff conduct should be included in a Human Resource Policy Document. This document should included issues of ethics, clearly defined expected conduct, courtesy, grievances and who to report them to, dress code, language, punctuality, use of computer, emails, etc, resignation policy, general chain of command in daily reporting as well as issues of reporting accidents.

Your staff's compliance to these requirements will depend on how you present them. It is important that you communicate that the purpose of this agreement is to foster a harmonious workplace atmosphere and

to prevent any misunderstandings that may be the result of lack of clarity of expectations. It is also advisable to allow staff to view this document and be given the opportunity to ask any questions or request clarification for their purpose. Once they are given this opportunity they will need to sign and date this document. They then need to be given a copy and one kept in the workplace for your records.

Most business grievances I encounter through our consultation are always the result of misunderstandings due to a lack of clearly defined and documented policies and expectations.

I am looking at hiring a new staff member, what are the most important qualities I should look for and what advice would you give me for the interview process?

Of course, a well-presented resume is important because it will give you some idea about the history and achievements of the person you are interviewing. However, this could be professionally prepared, which may not reflect the intelligence, or how articulate the person may be in real life.

The most important advice I would give you is to look for qualities such as optimism, a willingness to learn, a happy, cheerful disposition, flexibility and willingness to work as part of a team. In other words, attitude comes before anything else.

My second recommendation is that this is not the time to be telling the person what you are looking for, it is, however, your opportunity to ask appropriate questions to determine attitude, problem solving, ability to think on their feet and how well they speak, as well as their ability to articulate clearly and sell themselves to you. This is not about you selling the business to them.

Interviewing is a real skill and requires both technique and intuition, so don't forget to also go with your gut feeling. However, to be on the safe side, it is advisable that you place your new employee on a threemonth probationary period, after which time you can review their performance and determine any long-term employment prospects. ㄰

APAN has developed appropriate documentation such as the APAN Interviewing Questionnaire and the HR Policy Document to assist you in both these concerns. To purchase your copy contact APAN on Ph: 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com.

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Full coaching and consulting services however are available for free ONLY TO APAN FINANCIAL MEMBERS.

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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE

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2014

REVEALING THE NEW FACE OF AESHETICS Redefining and Setting New Standards in AESTHETICS EDUCATION

PERTH May 25 9am – 5pm

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HOBART October 26 9am – 5pm

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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES

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2014 APAN is launching a new educational Professional Development Program.

Join us and gain insight into future trends, increase your knowledge and confidence and get ready for a more successful 2014.

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Registrations open in February 2014 | Ph: 07 5593 0360 | info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com

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MAGNESIUM For Healthy Skin and Body According to researchers, magnesium is the king of minerals. It is involved in over 325 different biochemical processes and that's why a deficiency can lead to a host of systemic health problems, from heart disease, diabetes and cancer, to immune system disorders, mental illness and osteoporosis. Magnesium is a natural anti-inflammatory, reducing pain and swelling, and is also essential in the making of the primary hormone DHEA. The hype is always about not getting enough calcium and so many food products now have calcium added. Calcium is relatively abundant in our food supply and most people are getting enough, especially if they eat dairy foods. Milk, for instance, has a lot of calcium, but not much magnesium. Calcium deficiency is more the exception rather than the rule. Most of us are actually more magnesium deficient due to our magnesium-deficient food and water supply.

What most people don't realise is that if you have too much calcium and not enough magnesium to pair with it, the calcium can't get into the bones. Excess calcium is then deposited in the soft tissue and joints, making us harden and age faster. Yes, calcium is very important not only to the bones, but it also carries electrical current into the cells.

On the other hand, magnesium's job is to regulate how much is enough and then cause the cell's gateway to close so that it's not overstimulated. If magnesium is low the cell stimulation is not regulated and this can cause nerves to twitch, and uncontrollable spasms or cramp. Magnesium is also a regulator of insulin. It supports digestion and enzyme activity, and it is required in cellular energy production.

Magnesium Chloride: The king of minerals

MAGNESIUM FOR A HEALTHY BODY, MIND AND RELAXATION

HELPS TO:

]Relieves Stress ]Reduces muscle fatigue

and cramps ]Increases skin elasticity and vibrancy ]Assist in having a better night sleep ]Reduces menstrual pain ]Reduces hot flushes in menopause ]High in Vitamin D

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Are you magnesium deficient?

Most people are! If you are a person who suffers from stress, depression, muscle spasms, or sore muscles you will feel the benefits of using our Magnesium Detox Gel and Scrub. What is unique about these products is that they contain no synthetic chemicals and are rich in vitamin C for fast absorption. They are specially formulated using the most powerful aromatherapy, herbs, essential oils and essential fatty acids to penetrate deeper into the skin for optimal results.

Organic Rosehip Skincare

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1300 552 386 info@rosehipskincare.com | www.rosehipskincare.com

When you look at all the roles of magnesium you would have to say it is like the conductor of an orchestra, and all the other nutrients are the instruments. Nothing works properly without the direction and regulation of magnesium. You can't absorb enough iron or zinc without magnesium. It is an important co-factor with calcium and many other nutrients. Life cannot exist without magnesium.

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WHICH MAGNESIUM IS THE BEST? There are many different forms of magnesium and each one is taken up differently. For instance, magnesium oxide is only 4% bioavailable, but it does a good job as a bowel purge. At the other end of the scale is magnesium chloride, which is the most bioavailable and easily taken up by the body. Most people are familiar with Epsom salts, which is magnesium sulphate, but this form of magnesium does not stay long enough in the body for all of the jobs we want magnesium to do.

ORGANIC ROSEHIP Did you know you can achieve better treatment results in your salon by introducing magnesium in your treatments? Organic Rosehip have produced two highly effective products – Organic Magnesium Detox and Relaxation Gel and Organic Magnesium Bath Crystal Scrub – using magnesium chloride for its bioavailability. These products can be used on the face and body during a massage or for a luxurious manicure or pedicure.

MAGNESIUM DETOX AND RELAXING GEL Research confirms that magnesium chloride has transdermal capabilities and will reduce menstrual cramps and hot flushes in menopausal women. In the treatment of hot flushes it has a cooling effect on the body and helps to replenish the electrolytes that have been lost during sweating. Magnesium also assists in sleep and mood regulation. It has a calming effect on the body and is commonly know as ‘Nature’s Tranquilliser’. If you are stressed and anxious, it is a great way to help calm the mind and ease the tension physically, mentally and emotionally.

The other important key ingredient of the magnesium gel is the addition of the organic French clay. This clay contains an abundance of vitamins and mineral, which include Silica, Magnesium, Calcium, Iron, Potassium, Cobalt, Manganese, Zinc, Selenium, Copper, Phosphorous and Sodium. It also possesses analgesic properties effective in relieving muscular or joint pains by decongesting the affected area. In addition, it has a deep-cleansing action, removes dead skin cells, absorbs and detoxifies impurities, excess sebum, keeping the skin smooth, fresh and radiant.

Organic Magnesium Bath Crystal Scrub can be used to treat a wide range of health problems such as tired and sore muscles, sleeplessness, stress and mood problems. Containing key certified organic ingredients, which include magnesium chloride and French green l'argille, it is a highly absorbable form of magnesium.

Introducing these product through your treatments and also retailing to your clients will significantly benefit both your treatment results and your clients’ quality of life.

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Available through Organic Rosehip Skincare 1300 552 386.

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Where Green and Glamour Meet

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Become an EMANI Stockist today | info@bebeauty.com.au | 1300 885 101

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The birth of a New Qualification:

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Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)

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Raising the bar in Aesthetic Education, a new degree program promises to introduce the benchmark and a dynamic option for the everchanging Aesthetics Industry

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Whatever you may think about our industry one thing is definite – there has never been a time when we have experienced such rapid advances. Have you ever wondered whether your current qualifications can provide you with the skills and knowledge to fully understand these technologies in both skincare and equipment, and utilise them to their full potential, while confidently achieving advanced results? Can you tell your clients with a degree of certainty exactly what measurable outcome they can expect from your treatments? Do you know how to determine that?

Well, we have great news! The aesthetics industry now has an exciting new qualification aimed at offering you a more advanced level of knowledge and skills to face the future with assurance. As on-going new technologies are entering the industry with promises of advanced levels of treatment outcomes, the need for higher education is now becoming critical, and so this qualification could not have arrived at a more opportune time.

The qualification in question is the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics), which aims to underpin the credibility of these modern practices with a new standard of skills and advanced knowledge through a higher education tertiary qualification.

The Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) aims to empower practitioners with the recognition of a formal qualification as the new breed of clinical aesthetic practitioner becomes a reality. But why and how did this all come about and who are appropriate candidates to undertake this degree? Before we address these questions let's take a quick look at what contributed to its development and how does this qualification attempt to benefit the industry.

NEW INNOVATIONS AND GLOBAL CHANGES No-one would dispute that during the past five years we are seeing an acceleration of new innovations in both skincare and equipment technology. This has been fuelled by two factors.

First, the statistical evidence that despite global economic woes the consumer demand for appearance enhancement and anti-ageing procedures are continuing to increase world-wide at a staggering pace.

Second, fuelled by this phenomenon, formulators and manufacturers have embarked on the development of new products at a breakneck pace to outdo one another in new innovations.

The outcome of this has led to some amazing breakthroughs in technological advances in both skincare formulations and medical aesthetic equipment modalities that are being introduced into the market at a very rapid and continuing pace. The alarming fact is that this boom in technology is overriding current educational standards within the aesthetics industry, which is challenging the reputation of our industry through a lack of consistent standards in our practices. As an example, it is common knowledge that many practitioners working with new technology such as IPL, laser or ultrasound have had no formal education to give them the impetus to work with these modalities to their full potential and with a degree of confidence. While there is some training available to them there are still both knowledge and skill gaps that are not being adequately provided by the current educational systems.

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Maureen Houssein-Mustafa OAM is the Founding Director and Chairman of the Australasian College Broadway, a Registered Training Organisation specialising in Beauty, Hair and Make-up in Sydney. Maureen is an incredibly dynamic visionary and entrepreneur with an amazing drive and passion to make a difference to the industry as a whole. Understanding the power of knowledge and training in transforming lives has motivated her to gain recognition for her training establishment as the benchmark college in Australia.

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ACADEMIC BOARD

Her achievements were also recognised nationally, and in 2011 on Australia Day she was honoured as the proud recipient of an Order of Australia Medal for her contribution to vocational education and training, and for her strong community contribution in a variety of charities and humanitarian causes. This was the first honour of its kind to be awarded in the hair and beauty industry.

The Australasian College of Health and Wellness

Professor Peter Brooks, Chair Emeritus Professor Peter Drake Professor Anne Cusick Dr Gudrun Dieberg

IDENTIFYING CURRENT NEEDS

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Mr Christopher Madden Recognising the need for advanced education, Maureen sent some of her Professor Ray Hayek, Executive Dean staff members to undertake further studies currently on offer in other States.

Mr Gary Greig, Manager However, the few accredited advanced or Higher Education Quality Assurance higher education qualifications that did exist were primarily distant learning with some face-to-face contact in short “blocks”. These frequently were not fully utilised for the student's benefit as, while Melbourne) who was joined by a Board of Directors, all of whom the student was to undertake technical application of techniques (in provided structure and resilience to not only the program, but also the Intense Pulsed Light and laser technologies as examples), there were physical entity that the program resides in. persistent lack of clients for such treatments, limiting the practical clinical expertise needed to face a practice setting. Education Maureen has constantly been the driving and visionary force behind frequently was via log book that simply indicated how many this Degree program, ensuring it not only met with academic rigor, but treatments were performed, not what the outcome was, positive or also requesting more comprehensive practical components to ensure negative. graduates were confident and industry ready to face work from their very first day in the workforce.

With this situation as a background and acknowledging the existence of the Bachelor of Dermal Therapies in Melbourne, Maureen decided The process of developing this qualification from conceptualisation to to explore the current needs and establish a new educational pathway accreditation has taken over three years and we are delighted to that was tailor-made to offer a new and more comprehensive solution announce that it is now being launched. for the industry. A decision was made to form a small focus group consisting of industry leaders Terry Everitt (a master aesthetic The Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) is a new educator), Tina Viney (CEO of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory milestone and soon will be the benchmark that others will need to Network) and Dr Gudrun Dieberg (School of Science and achieve. Led by Executive Dean, Professor Ray Hayek and a team of Technology, University of New England). These three, who had all highly qualified experts, a new era in Clinical Aesthetics has now been involved in the development of the Bachelor of Health Science arrived.

(Aesthetics), met and formulated the outline of subjects for a proposed new Bachelor program.

Maureen firmly believes that 'one voice can make a difference' and she has never been shy in coming forward with new advancements when SETTING NEW EDUCATIONAL STANDARDS she has considered it essential. Now in this Sydney beacon of light, The outcomes of the focus group were then designated to a new she has harnessed a team of leading experts, drawn from academia and Course Advisory Committee consisting of the current three – Terry the industry to advocate and deliver a new Degree program that is both Everitt, Tina Viney and Dr Gudrun Dieberg – and joined by renowned academically strong and coupled with rigorous and complete practical surgeon Dr Phillip Bushell-Guthrie (plastic and maxillofacial application of skills in both existing and emerging technologies to surgeon), Gay Wardle (industry legend) and Gary Greig (higher bring a new level of credibility to a rapidly changing industry. education consultant). Early acceptance of this proposed program came from the Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons, cosmetic THE PROCESS OF ENDORSEMENT physicians and industry educational councils and practitioners.

We questioned Executive Dean, Professor Hayek about the process, the and endorsement that this degree had to undergo.

From there followed the formation of an Academic Board (Chaired by Professor Peter Brooks, Professor of Medicine, University of

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candidates to undertake this degree program and what they can hope to gain from this qualification.

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“This is an exciting opportunity for beauty therapists who wish to upgrade to a tertiary qualification and improve their career prospects.

This qualification will offer them a higher standard of skills and knowledge and ultimately greater confidence and recognition with consumers and with healthcare professionals with whom they will potentially be interfacing.

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“The concept of this degree was developed through a consensus panel that identified the professional requirements to support current industry needs,” Professor Hayek confirmed.

“The Course Advisory Committee consists of industry peers as well as academic leaders who were required to envisage the concept potential and develop the course outline.

“Resounding support from all members suggested that a Bachelor program was needed to support and respond to the growing technology and advances in cosmeceuticals that were being developed to meet the requirements of the anti-ageing industry.

“The program was assessed by the TEQSA (Tertiary Education Quality and Standards Agency) – the national regulating body for higher education who reviewed and assessed this degree against best practices. We are delighted and proud that our accreditation is the highest that TEQSA has approved with a seven-year accreditation,” Professor Hayek confirmed.

POINT OF DIFFERENCE FROM OTHER DEGREES In questioning what point of difference this qualification would offer the industry, Maureen was quick to point out that for a therapist or graduating student to successfully transition from the VET system to university was quite a milestone and required the necessary support structure to ensure the student's success in this transition. “It's not a case of just enrolling them, these students need more supervision and assistance, and to achieve this, each student will be allocated a mentor one hour per week who can support the student through this process,” Maureen pointed out.

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“There is another area that we believe we have improved on – we have designed stronger and more comprehensive practical components through this qualification to ensure that graduates are not only academically qualified, but also industry ready to enter the workforce with confidence in their practical ability from the very first day.”

“Furthermore, the units also reflect recent advances in the industry in the area of anti-ageing medicine, and the need for graduates to be given a strong foundation to work collaboratively with the medical profession in this area,” Maureen stressed.

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APPROPRIATE CANDIDATES We asked Professor Hayek for his recommendation of good

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“It is also an excellent option for nurses or healthcare professionals who wish to change their direction to the dynamic new field of aesthetics, or even beauty therapy students who wish to articulate to a Bachelor's Degree – the opportunities are endless,” he stated.

“I would encourage anyone who would like to explore their possibilities, or are not sure if they would qualify, to speak to Faculty Head, Associate Professor Sinan Ali (Professor of Physiology), who can review their situation and guide them further with their options.”

FLEXIBLE LEARNING We also asked about the possibility of flexible learning for someone who is currently working and would like to undertake this qualification.

“The short answer is yes,” Professor Hayek stated emphatically. “We are in the process of developing several modes of delivery to offer greater flexibility for those who wish to undertake this degree.”

FUNDING SUPPORT With regards to funding support, students can discuss this issue during the enrolment process. Study Assist provides information on student loans available under the Higher Education Loan Program (HELP) in both the higher education and VET sectors; courses, institutions and other approved providers that offer Australian Government assistance; and Student Income Support and Australian Scholarships and Awards.

ENROLMENTS AND DURATION OF COURSE Normally the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) can be achieved within a three-year, full-time study period, while part-time student will need six years. On the other hand, if students qualified for recognition of prior learning they can potentially save time.

There is nothing like the present to best prepare for a better future.

This Degree will be launched in March 2014, however, enrolments are now open. If you are interested in enrolling or looking at the possibilities of undertaking the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) please contact the Head of Faculty, Associate Professor Sinan Ali, at The Australasian College of Health and Wellness Ph: 02 8587 8888 http://www.tac.edu.au/highereducation.

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Skin O2 is one of Australia's leading cosmeceutical brands, offering professionalgrade retail products and inclinic treatments. Skin O2 is formulated to address major skin concerns such as ageing, pigmentation and acne. Our products are stocked in hundreds of leading cosmetic clinics and medi-spas across Australia and we are partnered with leading Beauty Sc h oo l s an d A d v a nc e d Dermal Education providers.

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Developed by Australian cosmetic physician Dr Aaron Atia, Skin O2 was formulated by doctors for doctors. These products and treatments offer doctor's office efficacy, without the irritation, harsh side-effects or the need for a prescription.

This Australian heritage gives the brand the best understanding of protection and rejuvenation of skin exposed to some of the harshest conditions in the world – the Australian sun, as well as accommodating for a diverse range of multi-cultural skin types.

The SKIN O2 Story

Skin O2 formulations contain a unique combination of sophisticated, high-end liposomal delivery systems and potent anti-ageing star performers such as Vitamin B, Vitamin A, Vitamin C and Vitamin E, as well as leading breakthrough peptides and natural plant extract epidermal growth factors. Each product is formulated with maximum stability and safety so it is more gentle and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and post-surgical skin that is mostly in need of skin regeneration, strengthening and repair. Because of this scientific doctor's formulation, you can enjoy real skin results without the unwanted side-effects.

By collaborating with renowned dermatological scientists and worldleading ingredient researchers, we remain at the forefront of innovation in the global cosmeceutical industry. Dr Atia has created a simple and concise regimen of products that deliver immediate and discernible results for a cleaner, clearer, more firm and youthful glowing complexion.

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Skin O2 is dermatologically tested, hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic, as well as clinically proven and chirally correct. This means that the ingredients are in correct form for optimal cellular uptake to ensure best clinical results without irritation and without clogging the skin's pores. This is the No. 1 reason educated skin experts choose Skin O2 as their preferred makeup and skincare choice.

Dr Aaron Atia

Our products contain all of Dr Atia's potent key ingredients, but without any harmful ingredients such as toxic nanoparticles. Skin O2 is cruelty free and uses eco friendly and unisex packaging.

Skin O2 is for the men and women who love nature and science, but most importantly value results for their skin. SkinO2 is used by a diverse clientele from the elite, the coolest grandparents, informed mothers, fathers and teens, recommend to them by skin specialists who seek to achieve the highest standard of results for their clients.

HISTORY Joining the cosmeceutical market in 2005, Skin O2 was first launched in Dr Atia's own cosmetic surgery clinic, Alive Clinics, just to help address his acne, rosacea and anti-ageing patients' skin concerns. Skin O2 then rapidly expanded to hundreds of skin clinics across Australia due to popular demand. Dr Atia initially observed that a large number of his patients' skin concerns were often caused or made worse by the large amount of problematic or ineffective cosmetic formulations.

Examples of these are pore clogging foundations and even well-known mineral makeup brands that contained skin-drying ingredients like talc, rice powder or other irritating ingredients like oxybithmus chloride. The original Skin O2 formulas were just created for Dr Atia's business partner and wife, who had also suffered from acne, as well as their dearest patients who had begged them for help. Once the story got out there was no holding back – Skin O2 became a cult skin brand in high demand by thousands of skin lovers who would share their personal skin success stories, and driven by doctors and skin therapists who recommended it with pride.

Skin O2 is loved by models and skin specialists and its professional in-clinic treatments have been featured on E! News USA, and recognised as a Hollywood red carpet facial favourite among the stars. Dr Atia and his life partner even received thank you notes from Hugh Hefner and Victoria Beckham. Skin O2 has just launched their new website so you can read Dr Atia's patient testimonials to see the real skin success stories for yourself.

Today this range of high-performance medi makeup and skincare is available in clinics as well as high-end cosmetic retail stores.

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Skin O2 has received independent critical acclaim for a multitude of products including:

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Best workout makeup – let’s the skin breathe and voted by fitness lovers Best makeup for acne sufferers or sensitive skin – recommended by doctors.

Radiance mineral primer – best multi-tasking makeup to reduce lines chosen by celebrities Best lash mascara and growth enhancer in one – Cleo magazine and Hot stuff Doctor's formula serums recognsied as what women want – Womens Weekly and Vogue magazine Multi Vit B,A,C,E – Voted No. 1 Doctor's choice alternative to Bio Oil scar repair.

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ABOUT DR AARON ATIA Early in his career, after graduating from Monash University (Melbourne) in 1987, Dr Aaron Atia accepted a fellowship with MHR (Medical Hair Restoration) and ADACS (Advanced Dermatology and Advanced Cosmetic Surgery) in the USA. During this time he became the first Australian doctor to complete a fellowship with a world-leading Accredited Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery company.

Dr Atia founded his Alive Clinics cosmetic practice in 2002 and has since become one of the most successful and trusted names in cosmetic surgery and skin cancer therapy.

He founded the Alive Clinics so fellow practitioners could have a proven system for success and his patients could benefit directly from his passion for high-quality aesthetic skincare. His mission was to create centres of excellence in cosmetic surgery and skin treatments, providing high-quality non-invasive treatments with less patient downtime or recovery with maximum, instant and on-going results.

This has been accomplished by sourcing cutting edge technology, world leading clinically proven ingredients and developing treatment protocols and guidelines for best clinical aesthetic practice.

Dr Atia has owned and operated multiple multi-million-dollar medical practices, including the Alive Clinics. During this time he has led teams of doctors to successful and fulfilling careers!

Dr Atia has lectured extensively in the USA. He has vast experience in both leading and lecturing in business, finance and the non-invasive medical aesthetic industry.

CREDENTIALS MBBS – Bachelor of Medicine, Bachelor of Surgery AARS – American Academy of Aesthetic and Restorative Surgery WAHRS – World Association of Hair Restoration Surgeons ASCM – Australasian Society of Cosmetic Medicine

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For more information or to learn the latest in anti-ageing ingredients, innovative technology and non-invasive professional treatments from leading cosmetic surgeon Dr Atia and turn your salon in to a profit making clinic or Medi Spa contact Skin O2 on 07 5593 4488 or email marilynn@skino2.com.au.

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sellingskills

Why 'sales' is not a dirty four-letter word

By Trevor Russell When you talk to most individuals about people in sales, it conjures up imagines of a greasy-haired car-sales man who stinks of cigarette smoke and shiftiness.

The reality of sales is that if you are in the business of promoting services and products to your clients, guess what, you are a salesperson. And most importantly, if you want to have a successful, profitable clinic and practice, the most dramatic impact you will make to the success of your business, in cash flow and profitability, will be to get motivated and develop an excitement for the art of sales.

In the words of Brian Tracey, leading business adviser and professional speaker and trainer, the number one reason why a business will be successful is by how well they are able to influence and sell.

The most interesting fact about the highest-performing people in sales today is they are actually very quiet, patient and very good listeners, and they have a deep sense of self-confidence and empathy for their customer.

Just for the record, whether you realise it or not, we are all in the art of sales, and sometimes it is not directly related to selling. For example, it can be on how you motivate your children to eat all of their dinner, sell yourself to the boss for a raise and promotion, create a cohesive work environment with your team members, and when you're attempting to motivate your partner to do something for you, such as wash the dishes or clean the house. In this regard we are all in sales.

When it comes to your business, being a successful clinic with a team of effective consultants who can sell is possible, when you know how.

I recently attended the Australian Skin Clinic in Ashmore, Gold Coast, and met one of the clinicians, Ursula, who took me through the presentation of one of the clinic’s skin packages. I have to say I was pleasantly surprised, she did a wonderful job and I was very impressed with how she took me through the sales process to buy. Which I did!

And I'm looking much younger now for the outcome of the sales presentation. A happy client now that will spend many $1000s for years to come and will refer many clients to that clinic, which all started from Ursula's fine training and ability to sell to me.

As with Ursula, there is a process and training that people need to go through to develop the mindset and skills to be effective in the art of sales. To the uninitiated, let's face it, selling and asking for the sale and money for many people brings up feelings of dread, doubt and in some cases sheer anxiety and fear. Why is this so? Did you know that selling brings up our most primal fears of danger and rejection, which in psychological terms can be as threatening as dying? No wonder so many people dread anything to do with selling.

When you speak to the majority of people about what they think about conducting a sale exercise, you find many variations of answers that come down to three things – they don't like it, it makes them feel uncomfortable, or they have this perception of salespeople that is painful and pushy.

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However, with a change of mindset and skills to support this change, mastering the art of sales does not need to be a dirty four-letter word. It can be the most exciting and life-changing skill you and your team can ever develop. So it's my intention to share some concepts and strategies for you and your team to develop to more effectively sell within your business practice.

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WHY SHOULD YOU BE SO EXCITED ABOUT THE ART OF SALES? Here are some reasons to consider that may help you appreciate the value of developing this skill:

] Being able to talk and discuss and ask clients to buy your products and services lifts confidence and allows for you to make a difference to their lives

] You and your team develop a greater sense of self-esteem and focus ] You are more results-driven, which creates great momentum in your business, the team gets excited and get to experience results and outcomes

] You communicate to your colleagues, family and friends in a more clear, professional, mature and intention manner

] You have a greater ability to generate money for you and your business, which raises cashflow and profits

] When you are in charge of your own ability to make more money, it creates a very high sense of certainty, satisfaction and happiness, which is really the underlying reason we do everything in life – to gain happiness.

targets the practice must achieve.

10. You communicate with the team in a positive and resultsfocused manner where you support each other to win at the game of business and serving the clients in the best possible manner.

11. Everyone is extremely professional and immaculately dressed and organised.

12. Everyone is focused on and committed to wanting to provide value to your clients and build relationships for the long term.

13. Very good records and notes are kept on all clients.

14. Everyone knows the clients, remembers their names and greets them by name.

15. Everyone works as a team to support and assist each other to

The most interesting fact about the highest performing people in sales today is they are actually very quiet, patient and very good listeners and they have a deep sense of self confidence and empathy for their clients.

Here are some of the processes, qualities and disciplines you look for and develop in yourself and your team members to build a sales-focused culture within your practice:

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1. As practice owner or manager it is your role to set the pace for the team. If things are not working, it will always come down to what you are not doing and how you are acting. Never blame, never complain, and always work to serve, support and fix.

2. Every day must be prepared with a brief team meeting (even if for just six minutes) as this will set the day up for intentional sales success. This may sound hard, however, it must be done, as this is contingent to your business's success and profitability, so please make the time.

3. As an owner or team leader a vision must be created and shared with everyone, as it is important to constantly know what you stand for.

4. A code of ethics must be developed and adhered to: APAN's code is one of the best in the industry. As a member use it to your advantage as it will help you set the rules for how your work and services will be conducted, and sets the standard of conduct and respect for the client and the profession and this is a must.

5. Training, training and more training is what successful people do in sales because it helps sharpen the team skills and keeps everyone on target. Embrace training, invest in it and do it regularly. It will provide you with more money for your effort than you can imagine.

6. As a practice owner, you reward your team in every possible way to keep enthusiasm high. This can be as simple as a thank you and well done when good work has happened and anything is sold, to rewards and prizes when targets have been met.

7. When hiring look for team members who are healthy and have an enthusiasm and a confident aliveness about them. Look for individuals with a positive attitude and their perspective is based on seeing the positive and the possibilities in all situations.

8. Another good attribute to look for is individuals who accept responsibility and have a mindset that is about being responsible for their results and what they are out to achieve.

9. Make sure you develop a culture that is highly organised and you have a simple, but effective plan for the activities and

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make appointments and following up so everyone can maximise their time and leverage themselves for maximum results. Be a team!

All staff's primary focus is to be seriously concerned about your clients' best interests and love to ensure they get the very best care and results.

All staff members are focused on the activities that support the success of the business by making the calls, having the appointments and conducting the sales consultations.

When consultations are conducted following the right pathway, everyone asks for the business i.e. OK, so shall we do this?

Which package stands out as your ideal choice?

You and the team members support each other to maintain a strong willpower to keep going, to work hard and let success keep happening over time.

Everyone must believe in the product and services being sold – the first sale always begins with ourselves.

So you ask, by achieving all this does that mean that all the emotional issue of feeling the fear and dread when asking for business or selling will go away? Well my answer to this is that in many cases it never entirely goes away, because we are humans and it's our fundamental way of operating to have the emotion of fear to protect us from perceived threat.

Even when there is no real danger of death occurring, asking a client if they would like, for example, to buy this package over that one; this to our nervous system can be the same as standing in front of an unchained tiger. And I know these emotions firsthand – it would definitely seem like the case at times.

However, I am the bearer of good news. There are a number of powerful strategies to reduce and even eliminate this sense of fear and dread. Here are a couple of simple tools and strategies to assist with managing these emotions and be in charge to ask for sales and money day-in, day-out.

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BE AWARE OF YOUR MINDSET AND MANAGE IT Be aware of the monkey mind of fear that may tell you – you can't do this, what if they say no, what if they don't like me? Remember that these are just thoughts, your brain (I call the monkey mind) gives you

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actions they take on a consistent basis. This is the key – just like anything we want to be masterful in life in, selling with skill, focus and passion will lead to success, and this will happen if we consistently embrace the tasks and attitudes needed to achieve the sales and reach our goals.

Using these strategies and constantly discussing them, training on them and refining them will be the most valuable action you and your team can make to be great at sales and love the feeling of winning and for the results everyone gets to achieve.

TAKING CARE OF YOU in the attempt to protect you from perceived danger. Don't take them seriously and don't yield to them.

PREFRAME AND REFRAME YOUR THOUGHTS AND FEELINGS Reframing your feelings is done by changing the meaning you give to the feeling of fear and the charge you get through your body. You know these feelings when you're going to make a call to someone you don't know, or going in to ask a client if they want to purchase something. The mechanism to use is to reframe the feelings of fear into excitement and adventure.

I personally do this whenever I am making a call to a client to ask them to do my presentation and buy into my training services. I am now very masterful at the preframe and keep reframing myself before and when doing the call or presentation. I tell myself over and over, 'how exciting this is going to be, what a wonderful adventure, let's see what happens and how I can best serve this person and have them register with me, so I get to do this'.

HAVE A CONSULTATION PROCESS I was taught a powerful message from a mentor, Emily Diamond, who said, ‘When you feeling fear, it means to prepare!’ Now please, ponder this statement for a moment. In terms of your profession, taking a client through a process to end with them purchasing a product worth $100 or a package worth $2000 will require skill and strategy and they need to be embraced and mastered. One cannot rely on just winging it!

When you have a highly effective consultation process that takes your client from meeting your clinician to having them buy a package, learning the right process will be so very much worth the effort.

Just consider the Ursula story at the start of the article. When you have a well-prepared consultation and sales process you take your clients through. It first and it will reduce feelings of fear from a 10 down to a 2 or 3 in many cases. Second, it will have you make more money in your practice than you ever could have thought possible.

TAKE CONSISTENT ACTION Just as a top-performing athlete shows up for training every day and week, even if it is hard and challenging at times, it's this discipline what makes them a winner. They reach their goal through the daily

To be sharp in mind and results is about taking care of yourself and making sure your team are taking care of themselves. If we are to be the best in sales and influence, we need to be on the top of our game. To make sure we get good amounts of rest, eat good-quality food, take consistent breaks and exercise consistently. This has you and your team perform at everyone's peak. And yes, I know, business and life are busy and stressful, so I would like to leave you with is this message. I call it the magic of 30.

When you can improve the management of stress just by 30% your conversion rates by 30% or lift sales by 30% and team satisfaction and results by 30%. This has a compound effect on effectiveness, performance and sales results and will take to you into the 100s of % range.

You don't need to reinvent the wheel of your business and life, just little steps bit by bit over time even just with a 30% improvement in all areas will be powerful to you, your team and the business's overall success.

As you can appreciate, this is just a taste for how to improve sales results and performance in your practice. I have extensive information and training on how to have your team selling, consulting and presenting with passion and power that can benefit you to really improve your team and business performance, sales and profits.

I also have a very specialised consultation sales process that I have refined and developed that will have your team selling with masterful and highly successful results and it would be an pleasure to discuss this training with you. However I may be able to assist you, it would be a pleasure to discuss your business needs in detail and have you continue to create the business and life you love.

Trevor Russell is a business strategist, mentor, sales and team trainer and professional speaker. He is highly motivated and brings out the best in business owners and teams. He has worked with over 200 businesses across many industries, including the beauty industry. He is highly experienced in peak human performance, sales, business management, marketing and finance. He specialises in business mastermind group facilitation and sales training and motivation. His intention is to have you create the business and life you love. To use Trevor's services, contact: info@trevorrussell.com.au www.trevorrussell.com.au

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Demonstrating Ineedle Procedure at A5M ㈵

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Lifting and Rebuilding Structure For the Skin FROM WITHIN Gravity is often to blame when it comes to the symptoms of ageing, as skin and muscles lose their tone and volume and start to sag, contributing to an acceleration of wrinkles and folds in the face and particularly the neck.

There are many procedures that offer skin tightening and lifting, and with their high demand innovative technologies are constantly being improved and perfected, offering new and better solutions to the eager and ever-growing anti-ageing market, and one of these procedures in threads.

At the recent A5M Anti-ageing Medical and Aesthetics Conference Dr Michael Zacharia, an ear, nose and throat (ENT Surgery) and Facial Plastic surgeon known for his expertise in this area, presented a lecture entitled Sagging Neck Solution – A new minor procedure for effective neck remodelling. The procedure involved a new innovation in lifting using new threads known as iNeedle. On the following day an interactive workshop was held where this procedure was demonstrated. We caught up with Dr Zacharia to gain more specific information about what is involved in this procedure and who is an appropriate candidate. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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APJ 1: Dr Zacharia, as a rule, face and neck lifting using threads does not have a consistent good reputation. How is iNeedle different?

Dr Zacharia: The original threads gained a bad reputation because of complications.

Also, sometimes doctors were not educated enough and performed this procedure on patients that were not appropriate candidates, so the wrong decision was made.

However, the new innovations such as iNeedle offer a better product that is absorbable, thus eliminating prior complications. Nevertheless, selection of the right candidate for this procedure is still very important for a successful outcome.

Dr Michael Zacharia APJ 2: Who is a good candidate for this procedure?

Dr Zacharia: Age and the condition of the skin are very important when considering the right candidate for a lifting procedure using threads. I usually look for good skin condition with not a lot of pathology, with a little excess skin, or a poorly defined cervicalmental angle. The best age group for threads is usually between 30 to 50.

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APJ 3: Dr Zacharia, can you please walk us through this process?

Dr Zacharia: This is not a complicated procedure.

We first position the markings on the neck deciding the position of the cervical-mental angle. Local

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months. This is a great procedure because you can instantly see results and there is not a lot of downtime.

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APJ 4: Does this procedure change the skin structure?

Dr Zacharia: Yes, we usually see skin improvement with

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structural increase in collagen and elastin, making the skin look more robust and not just in the thread area. We believe that the tension imposed on the skin from the threads induces a stimulatory response, giving the skin ongoing robustness at a subcutaneous level.

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APJ 5: With the iNeedle procedure, could lower neck and face be done simultaneously and what are the costs involved?

Dr Zacharia: If necessary, the two zones can be done at

Before Ineedle and micro lipo

the same time, but often we prioritise the lower face first, then the neck. The cost involved for this procedure is approximately $3,000 to $5,000 or a little more, if liposuction is also necessary.

APJ 6: How long does the procedure last and can it be adjusted if a patient loses weight or if there is future skin deterioration?

Dr Zacharia: The effect of this procedure can last between three to five years. If you are planning to lose weight it is advisable that you do so first, prior to undertaking threads.

APJ7: Are these threads absorbed by the body over time?

Dr Zacharia: Yes, the threads will usually dissolve within 9 to 12 months.

After Ineedle and micro lipo

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anaesthetic is usually administered and is all that is needed, in fact, sometimes sedation is not needed. The whole procedure for a neck lift usually takes just 20 to 30 minutes. We then apply firm bandages on the area to decrease any swelling, and if liposuction is needed the area needs to then be kept nice and tight. With the right care, not a lot of bruising or swelling is expected. The patient can see results straight away. Healing usually takes two to three weeks before everything settles down and further improvement can be expected in four to six

The interactive aesthetics workshop demonstrated this procedure using the iNeedle to an eager audience.

Threads are once again gaining popularity, especially for patients who don't want to undergo a surgical procedure, and can be used in various parts of the face and neck. In addition to restoring the natural facial contours there are also other advantages of a thread lift procedure, including new skin firmness, and may also improve skin colour, tone and texture. The thread lift is a minimally invasive procedure that can be carried out in the doctor's medical suite with a minimum of downtime and at a cost much less than a conventional facelift. Unlike traditional face-lifting procedures, the Promoitalia dissolvable threads offer a "soft" surgical approach and in typical cases do not leave any scars on the skin. The typical full-face thread lift takes from 45 to 90 minutes depending on the number of threads, after which you can return home within a few hours.

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To contact Dr Michael Zacharia Ph: 02 9199 8917 or visit www. http://drzacharia-px.rtrk.com.au iNeedle threads are distributed by Mara Aesthetics www.maraaesthetics.com

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By Tina Viney I recently read a quote that said that achievement is largely the product of steadily raising one's level of knowledge, aspirations and expectations. This is what happens with progress – there is constant improvement in innovation as manufacturers continue to discover new and better ways to improve their products, making them more efficient, faster, safer and better than before.

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It is no different with our services – we need to constantly innovate and improve so that we deliver better treatment outcomes from those we offered six months ago, or even a year ago. If this is not happening then we will be bypassed for those who will.

One simple way of improving your services is to take a closer look and gain a more in-depth understanding of well-known technologies so you can identify ways to achieve better results than previously. One such technology is LED light. In recent times as technology continues to innovate, manufacturers are coming up with new features and capabilities that now define how LEDs can benefit the skin and deliver more advanced results.

LED is one of the safest and most amazing technologies that every salon or clinic should invest in. As a stand-alone treatment it can not only benefit numerous skin conditions without the need of constant supervision, but it can also be combined with other modalities to benefit the skin in numerous ways, improving overall results, while providing your clients with a more comprehensive multi-modality treatment plan.

If you look at the NICB Resources or the PubMed websites you will find numerous research studies on the benefits of LED for skin rejuvenation, and yet many within the aesthetics industry are overlooking this amazing technology and the benefits it can offer their clients. In this article we will cover a basic overview on LED and look at why you should use it and some new advances in this modality.

WHERE DID IT ALL BEGIN? LED stands for light-emitting-diodes and was first developed by NASA. A scientific experiment conducted by NASA on how to grow plants in space has lead to the most significant breakthrough that has benefited the aesthetics industry. NASA were not looking at ways to reduce wrinkles so they were surprised to discover that the LED lights they were experimenting with as a means to grow plants in space helped astronauts recover faster from injuries. These discoveries led to the power of LED being constantly investigated and harnessed to deliver amazing results for skin improvement.

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On the skin LED works by sending energy-producing packets of light into the deeper layers of the skin. Chemical and physical effects are related to the possibility to reach different layers of the skin, thus activating specific cells according to the wavelength used. This means that specific actions can be derived from the application of the different wavelengths.

YELLOW LIGHT can deliver a specific action on the lymphatic system. Yellow light stimulates cell metabolism, promoting a detoxifying action to relieve swelling conditions.

RED LIGHT can stimulate the production of collagen and elastin.

Red light is absorbed by mitochondria and stimulates ATP, increasing thus cellular action, enhanced by its activity.

INFRARED LIGHT can stimulate at greater depth into the skin and effect the energetic re-charge of the cell (ATP).

Red light LED stimulates the fibroblasts that produce collagen, which gives young skin its plump look. As a professional treatment LED is a wonderful technology that can benefit the skin in many ways – minimise fine lines and wrinkles, treat sundamage and stretch marks, and reduce redness after more aggressive IPL or laser treatments.

While LED is an excellent stand-alone treatment, it is also an excellent companion technology when used as an adjunct to a heat-generated treatment such as IPL or laser that work on the principal of heat-activating collagen density. Following such a treatment with LED you can continue the stimulation of cell proliferation and collagen and elastic stimulation, but through a calmer more healing modality. However, the synergistic application of the two technologies can help you achieve enhanced results.

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HOW DOES LED WORK FOR SKIN REJUVENATION? FOR EXAMPLE: ㈵

BLUE LIGHT can provide a purification action.

Thanks to its properties, the blue light is recognised to be the ideal wavelength to solicit porphyrins to obtain a bacteriostatic effect with a consequent elimination of bacteria that contributes to acne formation.

For skin rejuvenation LED works by emitting red light that penetrates deep into the skin cells providing them with energy.

The cell converts light energy into fuel (like photosynthesis), in turn stimulating the cells to produce proteins and lipids essential for building and repairing the skin. This increased energy

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stimulates cells to produce elastin and collagen fibres needed to repair damage, such as wrinkles, fine lines, pigmentation, sagging and enlarged pores, all at the same time.

When used in conjunction with cosmeceuticals their effectiveness is further enhanced – accelerating skin rejuvenation results as light receptors in the skin are stimulated.

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Here are some of the ways that LED can benefit the skin:

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Improves elasticity and skin texture. LED can increase collagen stimulation by 200% within 24 hours.

Reduces the appearance of crow's feet and expression lines by softening lines, folds and wrinkles.

Promotes healthier circulation in the skin, improving skin tone.

The appearance of pore size is minimised, while toning and improving the texture of the skin.

Increases hydration levels in the skin, imparting radiance to the skin.

Accelerates skin repair to enhance younger-looking skin.

Helps reduce skin hyperpigmentation by evening out age spots, freckles and uneven pigmentation due to sun exposure or hormonal changes.

Has a beneficial effect on inflamed and irritated skin. It will also assist in calming rosacea, significantly reducing the appearance of overall redness and flushing.

NEW GENERATION IPL TECHNOLOGIES

capabilities to treat face, body, scalp and various skin conditions through individual masks. These include stretch mark and cellulite, dull, dehydrated skin, poor blood or lymphatic circulation, postsurgical treatments or scars, micro-dermal-abrasions and blemishes. It is excellent as post-laser treatments, photo dynamic therapy treatments and scalp treatments. YOUNG AGAIN® are distributed by Medial Formulations. They offer several unique technologies and are specialists in LED technologies as well as are pioneers of other equipment innovations. Medical Formulations Ph 07 3376 7998.

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PHOTOCARE BY SORISA Another leading innovation is the Photocare LED technology.

Photocare by Sorisa is a unique device that delivers effective phototherapy LED light through various colour spectrums, but also combines photoporation techniques in conjunction with cosmetics. It consists of a set of LED light screens (blue, green and red). The skin tissue exposed to the light with the appropriate wavelength uses the light energy to increase the synthesis of collagen and elastic fibres, obtaining a significant improvement in the quality and appearance of the skin. Effective treatments can benefit conditions of flaccidity, minimising wrinkles and expression lines, pigmentation, dehydration and oily and blemished skin.

Photocare uses the phototherapeutic effects of visible light from its LEDs to significantly stimulate Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP), which is the main energy molecule of the cell, improving the energy capacity of the cell and greatly improving skin quality and appearance. This process speeds up the metabolism, repairs cells and improves overall skin condition.

YOUNG AGAIN® ®

YOUNG AGAIN is a new-generation LED that features Photobiostimulation and Photoeudermia, a unique patented technology that features the benefit of light and heat, which are 100% explored. Acting at a minimum distance (5-10 mm) the tissue receives all the energy emitted without the dispersion.

Photobiostimulation – Depending on the colour used it will stimulate cell turnover and deliver an anti-ageing effect, improve the healing and repair phase of the skin, control sebaceous glands secretion and deliver bacteriostatic effect to the skin.

Photoeudermia – At this phase the light recharges the ATP and triggers a chemical reaction to the skin and hair cells. It enhances the receptivity of cells to cosmeceutical products and the cell's energy is increased. The light stimulates the enhancement of cellular activity and improves the penetration of active ingredients into the epidermal and dermal layers.

The YOUNG AGAIN® technology generates considerable aesthetic effects on numerous skin conditions and imperfections and has

The uniqueness of Photocare is that it also uses photoporation.

Photoporation consists of temporarily opening micropores in the outermost layer of the skin and cell membrane using LED light.

Photocare offers the options of LED light delivered through gel masks.

Sorisa has an innovative approach to applying active ingredients to the skin. The gel-like mask is impregnated with active ingredients, making the cosmetic product easy to apply and remove. It is disposable and therefore guarantees a personalised and hygienic treatment. These masks are transparent, so highly effective results are obtained with the application of photoporation and phototherapy with Photocare. There are five different types of masks for an individualised treatment, as appropriate. Photocare is distributed through Vogue Image Group

Ph 1800 554 545.

As you can see the new generation LED devices offer additional features not only for their competitive advantage, but also through the combination of technologies they can achieve more diverse treatment options and significantly improved treatment results.

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APJ 37

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Science validates the superiority of Fish Oil supplements when delivered in TRIGLYCERIDE FORM One of the most important nutrients that are highly beneficial for weight loss, skin and general health, including brain and heart health, are omega-3 essential fatty acids as found in fish oil. While fish oil is readily available in various grades, its effectiveness is determined by its degree of bioavailability. Now new research has identified the most effective form.

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Dr. Jorn Dyerberg and Danish co-workers demonstrated that the bioavailability of omega-3s in the re-esterified triglyceride form was 70 per cent higher than omega-3s in the ethyl ester form, according to findings published in the journal Prostaglandins, Leukotrienes and Essential Fatty Acids (2010).

THE CHEMISTRY OF FISH OIL In fish, the omega-3 fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) occur naturally in triglyceride form. To make a quality concentrated fish oil, the individual fatty acids must first be removed from the glycerol backbone. To stabilise these delicate fatty acids, they are bound to an ethyl alcohol molecule before they undergo molecular distillation to both purify and increase the amounts of EPA and DHA. Once the desired concentration is achieved, a manufacturer chooses from two distinctly different options. The first is to reattach the fatty acids to the glycerol backbone in a process known as “reesterification” to re-create the natural triglyceride structure. The second, far less costly option, is to leave the fish oil as an ethyl ester, a “new-to-nature” form of fatty acid.

When it comes to choosing fish oil supplements, whether in liquid form, soft gel or effervescent form, it's useful to have standards on which to benchmark your choice of product. There is a wide range of quality markers and standards that can help you make an informed choice to ensure a better experience in terms of efficacy, dosage, compliance and planetary impact. Here are some you may wish to consider:

STANDARDS TO LOOK FOR IN FISH OIL 1. Triglyceride form for better absorption Look for a high triglyceride form as new research has confirmed that this is the most bioavailable and the most highly absorbable form – up to 70% higher than omega-3s in the ethyl ester form.

2. Freshness for better taste and efficacy

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One of the single most important qualities of fish oils is its freshness so that it can ensure product integrity and biological efficacy. Look for an oxygen-free manufacturing process that ensures leading freshness levels. This will ensure effective oil with no fishy smell, taste and aftertaste.

3. Purity for protection from harmful environmental toxins Look for evidence that the fish have been harvested from the cleanest waters and have independent laboratory testing that confirm that the oil is free from heavy metals and environmental toxins, thereby ensuring the highest level of purity and freshness.

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4. Raw material for quality

Opt for a supplement that starts with the best raw material available:

100% wild Arctic cod (Skrei) sourced from the Norwegian Sea. Arctic cod has the highest DHA, vitamin A and vitamin D content of any cod species.

5. Sustainability for minimal environmental impact Look for manufacturers that closely monitor the oceans to avoid areas with overfishing or endangered fish and utilise responsible fishing systems to avoid catching unintended species and ecosystem damage.

6. Manufacturing and bottling for freshness and quality The use of nitrogen to minimise exposure to oxygen at every stage of manufacturing and beginning immediately after catch is also an important consideration, as only by using nitrogen can the fish and oil be protected from the oxidative rancidity that leads to a fishy smell and taste, as well as to free radical formation in the body.

It is important to remember that quality is an important consideration to ensure efficacy. Learning how to identify high-quality fish oil with superior bioavailability can ensure better effectiveness for skin and health needs.

Ref: Information provided by Nordic Naturals Nordic Naturals, the leading manufacturer of omega-3 supplements, is a researchdriven company that has been setting standards for purity, freshness, taste and sustainability since 1995. With a reputation for efficacy and potency, Nordic Naturals fish oils are regularly chosen without solicitation by research institutions and universities, including Stanford, Duke, UCLA, and Cedars-Sinai Medical Center, for their independent research. To date, 25 studies using Nordic Naturals products have been published, including 15 clinical trials, and more than 30 are in progress. These studies add to the large and growing body of scientific evidence showing the benefits of marine omega-3 essential fatty acids for a variety of health concerns. For information visit www.nordicnaturals.com or call 1800 110 158.

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GliSODin – The Antioxidant Catalyst for Sun Protection and Immune Defence It is widely understood that unprotected skin can be severely damaged by exposure to UV radiation generated by the sun. Besides a sunburn and erythema that is a visible reaction to the sun, the rays that emanate can set off a chain reaction within the skin, including itching, pruritus, and in about 15% of the population, sun allergy.

UV rays have three wavelengths, UVA, UVB and UVC. These rays can damage collagen fibres, which, over a period of time, result in visual ageing, such as wrinkles and a dry, leathery appearance. UVA is the least harmful, but through time and exposure does contribute to skin ageing and DNA damage. On the other hand UVB rays are most damaging to DNA; they corrupt DNA molecules by causing malformations that can lead to mutations and unhealthy cell production.

COMPLEMENTARY SKIN PROTECTION Now a dietary supplement with outstanding clinical evidence called GliSODin has been shown to help protect the skin from the inside, complementing topical sunscreens. GliSODin is a distinctive and powerful antioxidant catalyst, meaning it works to increase the body's own production of its natural antioxidant defences, including superoxide dismutase (SOD), helping the body to disarm the reactive oxygen species triggered by sunrays. This protective benefit is particularly beneficial for the sun-sensitive.

GliSODin's benefits protecting cells against oxidative stress are supported by three studies looking at the effects of sunlight and Ultraviolet Rays (UV) on the skin, inducing photo-oxidative stress.

RESEARCH CONFIRMS BENEFITS Three studies were conducted to evaluate the effect of GliSODin on the skin with the following conclusions: ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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UV Study 3, accepted for publication by the European Journal of Dermatology in May 2007, was a randomised double-blind study with 50 participants. Using a UV light, researchers created photo-oxidative stress on the skin, causing a burn and measuring the change in the colour of the skin (redness) on the inner forearms of healthy subjects.

The researchers conducted the UV stress test before starting supplementation with 500 mg of GliSODin or placebo, and repeated it each week for four weeks during supplementation. After using GliSODin, a significantly greater amount of UV exposure was

required to create the redness and burn on the skin. This was not seen in the placebo group.

The researchers concluded that GliSODin appears to effectively help protect against oxidative stress resulting from exposure to the UV radiation, particularly for fair-skinned (phototype II) people.

UV Study 2 was an open clinical trial conducted by 40 dermatologists in France. 150 volunteers were chosen based upon their susceptibility to flushing and burns and other oxidative stress reactions caused by exposure to the sun. The participants took 500mg of GliSODin daily over a 60-day period, and did not change their sunbathing routine, including use of their regular sunscreen (Index 20-100). This preliminary study suggests that the antioxidant properties of GliSODin may help support skin health against photo-oxidation by oxidative stress.

UV Study 1 was a pilot trial with 15 patients that easily burn, have hypersensitivity to the sun or even problems of sun disease. 500 mg of GliSODin were administered per day for 60 days, and the patients reported their experiences with the product and sun exposure.

After three to eight weeks of normal sun exposure, the skin situation was very satisfactory in all volunteers. As opposed to the previous summers, they did not present sunburn, flushing or skin rash as would be normally expected.

GliSODin was developed in France over 10 years ago and it’s efficacy is supported by extensive research. It is now available in Australia.

REFERENCE: UV Study 3 "Evaluation of the Effect of GliSODin on the Intensity of Actinic Erythema," M. Mac-Mary, J. Sainthillier, P. Creidi, J.P. Series, F. Vix, Ph. Humbert, presented at the CARD (Annual Congress of Dermatological Research) meeting in Brest, France, May 28th 2005 UV Study 2 "GliSODin and Exposure to the Sun," an open study conducted in France on 150 patients by 40 dermatologists following a protocol compiled by Catherine Laverdet, M.D., Nadine Pomarede, M.D. and Catherine Oliveres-Ghouti, M.D. Sponsored by ISOCELL Nutra, France. March 2005 UV Study 1 "GliSODin Sun pilot Trial," an open study conducted in France on 15 patients presenting fragile skin, hypersensitivity to the sun or even problems of sun disease, conducted by Catherine Laverdet, MD, Dermatologist, Attachee de Consultation des Hopitaux de, Paris. July-September 2003

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APJ 40

insurancematters ㄰ 㤵

Top 7 Ways To Avoid MALPRACTICE

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For many practitioners, regardless of their specialty, the one thing that keeps them up at night is the fear of a client or patient suing them for malpractice. Suzanne Sparrow is the director of the Sparrow Group an aesthetics and beauty specialist insurer and a strategic alliance partner of APAN. Regular discussions with APAN has allowed both parties to identify key industry concerns so that tailor-made policies can be developed that have resulted in one of the best medical malpractice covers on the market. In this article Suzanne present the top seven ways to avoid malpractice in your business.

Once you have established your cover there are certain things you can do to ensure you substantially minimise your chances of such disruptions. Establishing a few simple protocols that are also communicated to your staff can make all the difference.

Having the correct documentation and protocols in place will assist you to have a potential good outcome in a medical malpractice case.

Just because someone wants to sue you doesn't mean that you were negligent.

HERE ARE A FEW RECOMMENDATIONS:

5. Don't admit liability. Litigation is extremely time-consuming and

1. Lack of communication and adequate follow-up. Having

draining and stressful on a business. Sometimes in order to avoid what appears to be an oncoming lawsuit or complaint, a practitioner or physician will offer a refund. We would caution against offering refunds, unless you have consulted previously with your insurer, as offering a refund could be considered an admission of liability.

client undergoing a first treatment can usually inform you if they are experiencing any discomfort or an adverse reaction that you may not be able to visually identify. In doing so you could have made the necessary adjustments to better suit the client and potentially prevent an incident. In a lawsuit, your standard of care will come into question, and if it has been identified that your communication and your requirement of feedback during a procedure was not part of your treatment protocol, this may be viewed as contributing to a misunderstanding, or a breakdown in communication because of insufficient client advice and recommendation.

3. Managing expectations. While you wish your client or patient to

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In this litigious environment no business should take the risk of not having appropriate insurance cover for medical malpractice that will give them peace of mind. This is part of your obligation to yourself and to your clients. Furthermore, if you are an APAN member you are bound by their Code of Ethics that you are appropriately covered.

Section four of the Code – Business and Financial Dealings and clause 26 states Ensure that you are covered for both Public Liability Insurance as well as Medical Malpractice for all your services.

2. Feedback with a procedure. Again it's a communication issue. A

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their consent, having fully understood the risks and limitations of the treatment and sign this document. This paperwork must be carefully and professionally worded to include all possible outcomes.

Furthermore, it is important that informed consents are not just given to the client and told to read and sign, while the therapist walks away.

The correct procedure is that a therapist remains with the client and goes through the informed consent with them, making sure they fully understand what is said and be available to answer any questions or clarifications required. Any further documentation you have to assist the client to understand what they are undertaking is also of importance, as the more information they have before the procedure, the more difficult it will be for them to later claim that they didn't know.

policies and procedures in place that ensure excellent communication systems is so important. For example, if you are a beauty therapist, a follow-up phone call the day after your client’s first IPL, laser or needling procedure to ensure all is OK is very important. Keeping the channels of communication open is critical so that you can achieve cooperation in the event that there is a reaction or an incident.

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undertake your treatment, make sure that you communicate realistic expectation of what your treatment can deliver and don't build up someone's expectation beyond what is possible. Likewise, if a client or patient is enthusiastic about a procedure, make sure that you ensure you communicate to them what are the realistic outcomes that the treatment can deliver. Again, that is also part of your Code of Ethics and your requirement as a professional.

4. Informed consent. Wherever there may be risks it is important that these are clearly communicated through a written informed consent that the client or patient must read, ask any questions if they require clarification for anything, and then, of their own free will, offer you

6. Reporting. If your client is unhappy or if a treatment has not gone quite right your first point of call would be to report it to your insurer, even if the incident does not end up as a claim. This is very important as many businesses often bury their head in the sand and hope the complaint will go away. However, if they have contacted us we could guide them on how to deal with the situation so that they are fully protected.

7. Involving a Lawyer. If someone wants to sue you and you are insured you should not be contacting your lawyer. Your insurance's legal team is responsible to undertake this matter as part of your claim, so make sure you immediately report the matter to your insurer and leave it in their capable hands, while following their instructions.

With these simple protective guidelines you should not only minimise potential misunderstandings, but also more confidently deal with the situation in the event of a claim.

If you are not currently insured with The Sparrow Group please call us for a complementary evaluation of your insurance needs. If you are member of APAN we will offer you an APAN members discount for your premium.

Sue Sparrow can be contacted at the Sparrow Group E: sue@thesparrowgroup.com.au | P: 07 55028326 The Sparrow Group is an APAN Strategic Alliance Partner.

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When you want the perfect fit you need an

INDUSTRY SPECIALIST INSURER Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...

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skinscience ㄰

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The Role of Epidermal Growth Factors in Sun Damage Reversal and Skin Rejuvenation At the recent Australasian Academy of Anti-ageing Medical and Aesthetic Conference in Melbourne I was drawn to a particular lecture entitled Skin Tightening with EGF, FGF Creams and DNA Repair Enzymes Creams delivered by Dr Ronald Moy, who was presenting a paper on the impact of EGF, EFG and DNA Repair Enzymes creams on sun-damaged skin.

New research on the role of epidermal growth factors and fibroplast growth factors is bringing to the forefront the role these ingredients can play in reversing DNA damage and in stimulating epidermal and dermal stem cells. The research seems to support their particular effectiveness in sun-damaged skin, however, my interest was also in understanding the benefits they can offer for skin rejuvenation as part of treatment protocols in conjunction with IPL, laser or skin needling.

WHO IS DR RONALD MOY? Dr. Ronald Moy is a renowned scientist, researcher, dermatologist, cosmetic surgeon and the founder of DNAEGF Renewal – a niche line of products designed to achieve DNA repair in the skin.

Although Dr. Moy originally developed the line as a means to reverse pre-cancers in patients with severely sun-damaged skin, further research also found the DNA repair enzymes used in alliance with epidermal growth factors revealed dramatic age-reversing results. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Dr Moy has dedicated his life's work to understanding the impact of photo damage on skin's health and ageing. Based on 25 years of Dr. Moy's rigorous, clinical research, DNAEGF Renewal has been formulated with the highest levels of active ingredients for optimal performance with proven clinical results.

While the lecture was highly enlightening with evidence presented on research findings on sun damage and DNA repair, I decided to also catch up with Dr Moy to ask him more pointed questions as they related specifically to skin-treatment protocols.

APJ 1: Dr Moy, what are the mechanisms of EGF, FGF and enzymes and what level of skin improvement do they bring to the aesthetic and clinical environment?

Dr Moy: As we age the skin becomes thinner and progressively experiences loss of volume. The deterioration varies depending on the location, for example skin on the neck has 1/9th the thickness of the cheeks. By introducing an active DNA repair enzymes cream on to the skin you can introduce repair enzymes within the skin that will support the proliferation of new cell turnover and encourage the elimination of DNA damage.

You will also improve skin hydration levels as well as inhibit age spots and control hyperpigmenation. Additionally, our EGF and FGF serums also trigger and activate both epidermal and dermal stem cell renewal.

APJ 2: Are your formulations backed by double-blind testing and evidence-based research?

Dr Moy: There are several published papers that validated the benefit of EGF and FGF enzymatic therapy on DNA repair and in particular on their positive effects on sun-damaged actinic keratosis through topical application.

APJ 3: What level within the skin do they penetrate and what conditions do they repair? Also how important is dose?

Dr Moy: Our products are the first plant-based human Epidermal and Fibroblast Growth Factors based on a patented technology and bioengineered from barley grown in Iceland, which is non-endotoxic.

This is a unique form of EGF. The product's success is also due to the fact that it is the highest dose ever used. We have implanted the enzymes into liposomes and studies have confirmed that with this delivery system the product can penetrate and reach the dermis where it can effect skin-cell repair. In our products we have four DNA repair enzymes. The effectiveness of these formulations is that they can

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stimulate collagen production, resulting in dramatically tightening pores, thickening skin and improving skin texture by stimulating cell activity as well as activate the epidermal and dermal stem cells.

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APJ 4: Is there any evidence that repair to the DNA through your enzyme creams can also extend the life of telomares and how does DNA damage be repaired?

Dr Moy: Yes, our formulations do protect

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against telomere shortening and contribute to all forms of DNA repair, including keratinocytes in the epidermis and collagen and elastin damage repair in the dermis.

APJ 5: Should these products be used as intensive treatments on their own, or can they be supported by companion products? Should your serum be allowed to work on their own or with a time lapse before other products are used?

Dr Moy: These products work on a cellular

dna scar cream and dna repair cream

DNA level to repair damage.

It is recommended that you allow the serum to penetrate and wait a few minutes before other products can be used. However, there is no reason why you could not use other active products such as Tretinoin cream or other substances such as vitamin C or peptides.

These products can work together to enhance and optimise each other.

APJ 6: I believe that your DNA repair enzyme products also prevent immune suppression, so if combined with treatments such as laser, IPL or EGF serum and EGF clinical study skin needling that cause trauma, at what stage should they be introduced?

DNAEGF Renewal formulations were introduced in Dr Moy: It is advisable to use EGF and FGF products prior to these Australia in August 2013. treatments as it will assist to optimise cell damage at a DNA level.

This will allow these treatments to have a healthier cell to deal with.

Directly after a treatment it is also advisable to use epidermal growth factors as these will further enhance skin tightening and thickening.

However, it is advisable to not apply them during any wound-healing phase.

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APJ 7: Which skins can benefit the most from your formulations?

Dr Moy: Any skin with sun damage can benefit from the use of EGF, FGF and DNA repair enzymes as they will support the skin's integrity and repair DNA damage. Also, great results can be achieved with individuals aged 55+ as the skin progressively becomes depleted.

Skin can experience improvement in skin tightening and density if the cells can be saturated with EGF.

They are considered as one of the world's most sophisticated antiageing and anti-cancer skincare solution. Free of fragrance, parabens and sulfates, the light but potent formulas are designed for both men and women. The comprehensive line features 7 age-reversing products, which include Growth Factor Serum, Intensive Renewal, Night Renewal, Eye Renewal, DNA Defense Moisturiser with Sun Protection, Foaming Cleanser and Scar Therapy.

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For further information please contact Advanced Cosmeceuticals on 1800 242 011 or visit www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au

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industryreport ㄰

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AN INDUSTRY REPORT ON WHAT LIES AHEAD

COMMODITISATION – The new Threat or Foe Are you prepared?

By Tina Viney

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I was recently speaking with Trevor Neale from Premetec who was discussing with me how the industry is now being influenced by commoditisation – a term I was not clear on its meaning, so I decided to research it to determine exactly how it is currently influencing changes that will affect our industry. What I discovered was quite amazing and alarming at the same time.

WHAT IS COMMODITISATION

Globally, new innovations are currently being developed that will impact our industry in a big way and whether these changes make us, or break us will depend on how well we are prepared, so my intention and commitment is to make sure I put forward before you the facts and discuss with you the options open to you so that you can stay ahead of it all.

As a result of technological innovation, broad-based education and frequent availability of new commodities, goods and services become commoditised and therefore, widely accessible, easier and cheaper to access.

While we all love the comfort of familiarity and view change as a challenge, on the flit side, there is also an element of excitement and energy that chance can bring as we gain new tools or a new perspective on how to grow and move forward. So let's take a closer look at the whole issue of commoditisation and how it will impact us.

The definition of commoditisation is the act of making a process of goods or services easy to obtain by making them as uniform, plentiful, easily available and affordable as possible. Something becomes commoditised when its offering is so similar that it is indistinguishable from another.

In the past few decades, previously "modern" things such as microchips, personal computers even the internet itself have become essentially commoditised. Combinations of commoditised products such as computers and business software have in effect commoditised many processes, not to mention mobile phones that have evolved to offer greater sophisticated services, including being almost as efficient as a computer in gaining information, yet so affordable that

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anyone can access them. In a truly capitalist society, the ability to commoditise anything is seen as a benefit to all, and opens up resources that can be put to better use on innovative enterprises.

In terms of our industry what we need is to examine the following considerations: 1. What is becoming commoditised?

2. What is the significance of this commoditisation?

3. How will it impact our goods and services?

4. What can we do about it?

The key areas that we need to closely examine are new innovations in skincare and equipment.

Driven by the anti-ageing consumer frenzy many companies are seeing the opportunity to utilise technology and develop products and devices that they can put into the hands of the average consumer, instead of the previously exclusive use of professionals. Currently, medical-device manufacturers are working collaboratively with skincare manufacturers to take advantage of the growing consumer market for anti-ageing products through new-generation innovative solutions. While I will be giving you one example below, there are now numerous companies doing the same. This trend needs to be carefully examined and we must identify how we need to position ourselves so that our services and products are not overtaken by commoditisation.

To give you an example, a recent report I received stated that two companies – Bio-Medical Research and StriVectin (a cosmeceutical manufacturer) – have put their heads together to develop a Facial Toning Duo as well as a Body Toning Duo that they say are more effective than currently available through anti-ageing creams. They have achieved this by combining a stimulating device technology with a built-in specialised formulation to achieve a breakthrough in results.

Bio-Medical Research (BMR) Ltd., based in Galway, Ireland is a privately owned company with over 30 years’ experience in the research, design, manufacture and marketing of medical-grade products for both muscle strengthening and pain relief. According to Bio-Medical, the device has been used for decades by medical and aesthetics professionals to improve muscle health and appearance, but now the technology will be made available to consumers for home use.

According to the company, Bio-Medical Research beauty tools will include not only the Facial Toning Duo, but also the Body Toning Duo for tummy lift, arm lift and bottom lift that will offer effortless solutions for at home use and provide a natural boost to beauty regimens.

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For the face, the treatments are delivered through soft Gel Pads placed on both sides of the face that gently but effectively stimulate the facial nerves that control all major facial muscles. StriVectin-TL Tightening Face Cream is clinically proven to work immediately to tighten skin, while also delivering long-term skin-firming benefits. Skin is hydrated, firmed and lifted, while texture and skin tone are improved, attributable to an exclusive blend of botanical tensors, stimulating peptides and the award-winning, multi-patented NIA-114™ molecule.

The Tummy Lift Duo highlights the Bio-Medical Research Tummy Lift and StriVectin-TL™ Tightening Body Cream. This device uses FDA-cleared Electrical Muscle Stimulation (EMS) technology to gently contract and relax abdominal muscles, resulting in a more firm and toned tummy.

In six-week clinical trials, 100% of users reported firmer, more toned abs. Also containing a blend of botanical tensors, stimulating peptides and the award-winning, multi-patented NIA-114™ molecule, StriVectin-TL Tightening Body Cream visibly tightens and firms thin, lax and crêpey skin on arms, elbows, legs, knees and the entire body for a more youthful appearance. The suggested retail price for the Facial Toning Duo is $395 and $200 for the Tummy Lift Duo.

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Convinced? Now before you run out and buy them, consider the impact such innovations can have on our industry. Let's go back to the questions: 1. What is becoming commoditised? The answer to that is equipment and new skincare innovations. This is going to be the next big trend, with an estimated global growth per year of a staggering 20%. We just can't afford to ignore that this is happening and if we don't determine our strategy on how to prepare for this we will see our businesses dwindle.

2. What is the significance of this commoditisation? Without any initiative on our part we could potentially lose clients to home-based solutions unless we prove to consumers that what we will provide them will promise a superior end result and substantially more benefits than they can receive on their own. In order to deliver on this we need to revisit what we are currently offering and determine if we need to upgrade our services and treatments to ensure when compared to these devices we can still offer end results that are much better.

3. How will it impact our goods and services? On a positive note, consumers will become more familiar with the benefit of technology and how they can enhance results. This is a good thing because it will now be easier to convince someone that a treatment package that includes high-end technology with skincare is what is needed to achieve a better standard of results. It will also mean that more consumers will invest in appearance-improvement devices so the demand for such results will become commonplace. On the other hand, it will also mean that unless your services include technology they may be perceived as being more pampering than results oriented.

4. What can we do about it? In order for us to differentiate our services we will need to be one step ahead of these innovations. I believe that the days of using one technology alone are numbered. We will now need to look at how we can further enhance results on a professional level through the combination of techniques and technologies that cannot be duplicated at home. For example, combining IPL or laser skin rejuvenation with LED can substantially improve end results as they target the cells in different ways, but combined, they substantially enhance skin-cell turnover, collagen and elastin proliferation and ultimately a better end result in skin rejuvenation.

A technique such as manual lymphatic drainage is a professional service that cannot be duplicated at home, so investing in your knowledge and training in this modality will become valuable.

Working with epidermal growth factors at substantially higher concentration (clinical strength) than available through consumer products is now a must. The incorporation of nutritional profiling of our clients to address internal inflammation issues that may be compromising your end results will all contribute to a more clinical outcome – a combination of such services and modalities will position your services on a much higher level.

The use of clinical-strength peels, equipment such as electroporation and radio frequency that can enhance product penetration and tighten skin will also be excellent arsenals to our treatment offerings.

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Your skills in client skin and health analysis may need to be upgraded to explore solutions in a more comprehensive way. Additionally, you will need to step up your ability to communicate and articulate how your products and services have scientific validation in being able to deliver measurable results worth investing in.

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Another area that can give you a competitive advantage is how meticulously you can deliver an exceptional client experience as you also work on issues of improving relaxation and relieving stress that can contribute to better wellbeing, and improving health concerns such as high blood pressure and high cortisol levels.

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Please also note that technology alone is not offering the great results – it is the combination duo of appropriate technology and skincare that is the key. What about your services? Are you offering say IPL treatments without appropriate clinical-strength skincare enhanced with perhaps epidermal growth factors and peptides to support and further improve your results? The argument that I am not here to sell product will no longer hold, as research confirms the appropriate combination of technology and advanced skincare is proven for superior results.

Complete Retail & Professional Aromatic Spa Body Rituals “Thai Herbal Healing” RRP $50 and under 100% Mark-up Formulated WITHOUT: Parabens, SLES, Petroleum Derivatives, Animal Products, Propylene Glycol, Artificial Fragrance & Colour.

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FACING THE FUTURE To continue to position ourselves as the experts we will need to invest in our education. Adding to the existing training providers currently available, in this journal we are thrilled to promote the launch of the new Bachelor of Applied Science (Clinical Aesthetics). Additionally, several new post-graduate units on advanced aesthetic practices and dermal therapies will be added to the beauty industry's Training Package as of next year. Education will play a key role and I urge you all to look at ways of investing in furthering your education.

If we can lift our game then I believe that these changes will only work to create greater consumer awareness of what now can be achieved.

They will have a choice – attempt it on their own by dedicating time on a daily basis to achieve results, or entrust professionals with more advanced technologies to take care of them to achieve even better results. In such instances, selling them the home device will also be an option as it will help maintain the professional results so that you can continue to offer progressive and on-going improvement instead of just maintenance.

At recent webinars and conferences presenting how the professional aesthetic market will be impacted by these developments, the recommendation was that professionals should not be threatened by these innovations, as they can serve them by creating further consumer awareness to access anti-ageing services.

It is encouraging that in terms of anti-ageing solutions consumer demand is on an on-going increase, and we should ensure that we can outperform home-use devices and products though higher skills and more advanced technologies and techniques – it's up to us to do so.

Our level of professional communication and relationship building with our clients will also need to be revisited and refined to promote credible scientific information to ensure your knowledge and recommendations are respected and so that you are still considered the expert they will turn to.

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Dynamic Skin Solutions P: 02 9525 8368 E: info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au W: www.dynamicskinsolutions.com.au

The future ahead will be very interesting. In 2014 APAN will continue to stage its conference events where we will keep you up-todate on on-going developments. If you have never attended one of our events please check page 24 with the event dates and locations for next year and plan to be at one of these events. We are here to make your journey to success easier.

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10 Key Pathways to Profitability Moving forward in your business growth requires the necessary revenue to implement new innovations and progress. To achieve this, a business has to also concentrate on the bottom line making sure that services and products deliver the necessary profits. As the issue of profitability is commonly overlooked, in this article Caroline Nelson examines some of the most successful pathways to profitability.

The path to business success in the aesthetic or beauty industry has many and varied roads, but all should lead to financial benefits for the owner’s investment, satisfied customers and happy and contented employees. Unfortunately, this is not always the case.

Many business managers get bogged down in the day-to-day operation of their business and lose sight of the big picture and quickly go off-track. So in this article I thought it would be a good idea to go through some of the ways to keep focused and moving forward on the path of profitability.

To keep on track of everything in your business will require creating workable, effective and reliable systems. Without these you will not be able to train employees to the high standards required, nor be able to retain consistency. In addition you will need a very user-friendly software system, and not just to be used for its booking and marketing capabilities. But also for the data it provides so that you know the critical numbers, so that you can check them daily and make relevant decisions based on what they tell you.

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To achieve success in any business necessitates developing a healthy “for profit” mindset and to fully embrace the reality that profit is needed for a business to not only survive, but to also prosper. A good entrepreneur will keep this mindset when making decisions that will affect their business and use it to take advantage of opportunities and to react quickly to the unexpected.

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There will always be people needing beauty treatments or products to keep their skin healthy and younger-looking, but how large your market share is will depend on the plans made, actions taken, and the strategies you implement.

FOLLOWING ARE 10 KEY PATHWAYS TO PROFITABILITY 1. Put your business under the microscope by performing a top-tobottom walk-through of all areas of business operations. This will identify any deficiencies, bottle-necks, team members who might be gumming up the works, and what changes or improvements may be necessary. Once you have this information you can move forward to the next step.

2. Planning for improvements will require setting in place the strategies that will support the business reaching the goals you want to achieve in the short, medium and long-term. To reach these goals will require having the most appropriate key people on your team.

3. If you have identified there were people in your employ who were gumming up the works this will be when you decide if they can be trained to perform more efficiently, and if not, then a decision about their future will need to be made. Finding, training, and retaining the right team may be a daunting chore, but it is one that will be critical to the pathway to profitability. Once you have the right team on board you can then concentrate more on delivering what your customers really want. ㄰

4. Are you offering people the services and products they want to buy, not just what you want to sell? When did you last conduct a client survey? If it's been a while then are you really sure you know what current consumer trends are? And if you are trying to sell products customers can purchase online cheaper then you are effectively cutting retail sales and profits.

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5. Continually explore new potential services and products that will provide additional income streams in line with customers' needs and

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wants. But before you go ahead with introducing something new, make sure you have created the marketing “sizzle” and your customers are eager to be the first in line to experience the new treatment or product.

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6. Train your team to identify all customer service and product possibilities. Get them actively “upgrading” services to provide additional benefits or boosters to treatment results. And retailing not only basic skincare needs, but the high-performance items that support and intensify salon services.

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7. Create a Winning Team Culture (team being the operative word team members, not just employees) with all team members aligned, engaged, focused on high levels of customer service and achieving goals. Encourage trust and dependability within the team, with each being prepared to be accountable for their contribution to the team effort, and the more you respect, value and give credit for their efforts the more they will strengthen your business.

8. Reward both customers and your team. Everyone likes to receive a thank you, a little something that conveys appreciation. With your clients you can create a formal Loyalty Rewards Program, and with your team, bonuses or incentives can be aligned to their performance achievements.

9. Get a Coach. Or at least someone outside your business who can objectively offer sound industry advice on all aspects of business management and who will hold you accountable to achieving the results you are aiming for. This is what a savvy business person does to multiply and achieve results quickly.

10. Start socialising to reduce marketing costs and spread the right buzz for your business. Not just in the old methods of networking, but using social media platforms like Facebook, Twitter, YouTube and Blogs to enhance the relationship with clients by establishing open lines of communication. This will get people talking about your services and products in positive ways that can lead to sales. If, however, a negative comment is made it allows you to set the record straight and put a positive spin on things. As a marketing tool social media is incredibly powerful and cost effective.

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years experience who s p e c i a l i s e s i n b u s i n e s s c o a c h i n g f o r s a l o n s & s p a s . Vi s i t www.SalonSpaBusiness.com to see her full selection of Beauty Industry business tools and upcoming Business Development seminars.

CLIENTS FOR LIFE I would also like to draw your attention to another important pathway to profit, and that is to develop as many “Clients for Life” as possible.

And to inspire you to go the extra mile here are some simple mathematics that will show you how to figure out the CLTV (client lifetime value). It's fair to say that in general clients do not stay with us for the length they did in the past, but the longer they do the better, and for the purpose of this exercise we will calculate it out using three years.

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The equation is (average value of sale) X (number of repeat transactions) X (average retention time). So a simple example would be a client who spends $100 every month for three years. The value of the client would be: $100 X 12 months X three years = $3,600 in total revenue (or per year $1,200).

So I think you will agree if you keep your eye firmly focused on your business, this will enable you and your team to offer what the clients really want in the way of services and products. Providing superior service by highly trained client-focused therapists and rewarding both clients and therapist for their loyalty means you will have a business well placed to develop more “Clients for Life” and move quickly on the pathway to profit. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2013

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2. THEY NEED ASSISTANCE WITH CONSULTATION AND SKIN ANALYSIS

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This is a big one! As I underlined previously, I suggest that all therapists should follow the steps of: 1. Identifying the PROBLEM that the skin/body is suffering from 2. Discussing the REASONS why the skin is experiencing these problems 3. Then offering a SOLUTION to the problem in the way of products that the client can use at home and a program of treatments that will help them achieve their SKIN GOALS.

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Obviously, if the therapist is not confident in asking open-ended questions and they don't know how to identify the client's problems with a thorough skin analysis then the first step of recommending retail will not be achieved, which in turn will affect the successful retail recommendation and future treatment re-booking of the client.

THE FIVE KEYS TO INCREASING REVENUE IN YOUR BUSINESS

By Tess Walls In the 20 years that I have been in the industry the most common question I am asked is how can the business owner motivate their staff to generate more income for the business? As this question seems to be quite a popular one I thought I would put together the top five reasons that I have identified why business owners are constantly challenged to increase and maintain the revenue produced by each therapist.

Consider the following and determine if improving in this area will allow you gain momentum.

1. THE THERAPIST IS NOT SOLD ON THE PRODUCT YOU ARE USING If your therapists are not using the products that you are using in your business and are not promoting it also to their friends and family, this generally means that they don't love your product! It is very important that they believe in your brand promise, and the first sign that they are not a true believer is that they do not use the product they are recommending. I know that therapists will give any excuse; we have all heard them before, things like “I cannot afford the product” or “it makes my skin break out because it is more suited to an ageing skin, but I still recommend it to my clients”. I can promise you, it is as simple as, if they don't use it, they will not sell it!

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So, I am sure you are asking yourself if this is the case with your business, how do you overcome this problem? First, I suggest that you sit down with each therapist and take the time to do a thorough skin analysis on them, get them to fill out one of your consultation cards and ask them truthfully what they are using on their skin. Look at their skin like you would a client and identify the problems that their skin is facing, discuss reasons why their skin is being affected in this way and offer a solution to their skin needs. This will obviously include homecare product, which your product supplier may be able to help you with, and a treatment routine. Too many times we forget to look after the therapists that are selling our brand, but it is a fact, if they don't have amazing skin and they don't believe wholeheartedly that your business is the best and that you have the best product then your business will suffer.

So, how do we know if the therapists are having problems identifying skin problems? I would recommend starting with the information that is recorded on your client history cards. If this is not very clear or in a lot of cases there is not very much information, then have a chat to the therapist or organise a friend to be a mystery shopper, or jump straight into skin analysis training. There are various companies that offer skin analysis training, including some product suppliers, and it is well worth the investment, because if your therapists feel confident that they know how to identify the problem then it is an easier transition into recommending a solution.

3. THEY DO NOT UNDERSTAND THE PRODUCT THAT THEY ARE SELLING As the product you are selling is a major part of the solution for your client then it is important that your therapists understand how they can achieve results with all the different skin types. I would sit down with each therapist and discuss what products and professional treatment they would recommend for the top five skin problems you see within your business, or alternatively assign them a task of putting together a chart for the products and treatments you have with in your business.

Once your therapists have completed their “homework” I would suggest asking your supplier for a similar chart, which should outline all the different skin types and conditions and what treatments and homecare solutions are available for those particular problems. It should also contain the key ingredients used within the products and treatments and what benefit these have on the skin. A tool like this within your business will help all your staff to be consistent with their recommendations and, in turn, help you increase retail sales and rebooking for treatment courses.

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4. THEY DO NOT KNOW HOW TO RECOMMEND I wish I had a dollar for every time a therapist has said to me “I became a therapist to help people, not to be a salesperson”! My response to this is that if you are not identifying the client’s skin and body problems and offering a reason why his/her skin is being affected in this way and then offering a solution to their problem in the way of homecare and in salon/spa treatments then you are being unprofessional and you are not offering the client a comprehensive professional service.

I know this sounds harsh, but I really do believe that this is the reason that thousands of businesses have closed in our industry in the past few years. Yes, we are there to care and nurture our clients, but our job is to assist them with their skin and body concerns. We are skin therapists and it is vital that we step up and offer our clients the ultimate service.

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So once we overcome the psychological block that the therapist has then we can start implementing a recommending system for not only retail, but also for treatment packages for your clients. I have seen this work very well as a combination of the two – a treatment course with a “bonus package” of skincare. This ensures you start your clients using the correct skincare and it gives your therapists focus as they just have to sell the package, and it includes everything the client needs to get started. I personally like this method as it will ensure the client will get better results with both professional treatments and homecare.

However, I see a lot of therapists either selling courses of treatments or homecare packages – it is rare to see them strong in both areas, so this is a way to overcome this.

We have our own retailing and treatment recommending system at Germaine de Capuccini that our salons and spas use, so I would recommend speaking with your product supplier for assistance or feel free to give us a call if you would like to discuss what we have on offer.

5. YOUR SALON OR SPA DOES NOT LOOK LIKE A PLACE THAT SELLS RETAIL I have met many amazing business people with very successful businesses and the one thing they have in common is that they take recommendation within their business seriously. If you want to sell a lot of retail and treatment courses then your shelves should be stocked with product, and your therapists should look like professional skin therapists that are confident and knowledgeable.

I would suggest that you speak to your product supplier or business coach to put a plan in place to create the ultimate professional promotional environment, and another tip I would give you is – don't forget to look at your staff. If they do not ooze the words “I am a professional and I am here to give you guidance with your skin” then you really will struggle to increase the revenue per therapist.

I can assure you if you thoroughly look at all the areas mentioned above you will dramatically increase the revenue that each of your staff members produce

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Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 20 years experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business step-by-step. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves imparting her knowledge to others.

She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success.

She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including the Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems. If you would like to speak to Tess or receive a visit from one of the experienced Business Development Managers please call Germaine de Capuccini on 1300 432 100.

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Rinazell – An Unsurpassed Icon Dr Horst Spiller pioneered topical peptide technology with the launch of Rinazell Lacteal Active Substance Gel and Cream back in 1973.

This innovation secured Spiller's position as an international formulating icon, inspiring and advancing the use of peptide application in modern cosmetic chemistry.

Rich in casein and whey derived lactopolypeptides; Spiller's formulation ingenuity amplified their potency via the fusion with biomimetic, skin-identical elements.

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Rinazell Lacteal Active Substance Gel is an intensely repairing and re-structuring serum designed to re-build and restore function to postoperative, stressed and damaged skins. Dynamic regeneration minimises scar and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation potential for a stronger and more resilient recovery. This process is fortified and further concentrated with the application of Rinazell Lacteal Active Substance Cream to form a protective 'second skin'. The intensely repairing and re-structuring moisturiser re-builds and restores barrier function accelerating rehabilitation by reestablishing normalised function.

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THE ADVANTAGES OF MILK PEPTIDES

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A peptide is a building block of a protein and consists of a combination of amino acids. With 20 amino acids found in the human body, peptides and proteins are different combinations and sequences of these acids. A chain of amino acids over 50 is referred to as a protein and a chain under 50 is a peptide. Milk peptides contain all nine essential amino acids not naturally produced by the body, but

also the individual amino acid building blocks that are found in collagen and natural moisture factor (NMF). These peptides effortlessly support and replicate glycine, proline, alanine and oxyproline (the primary blocks of collagen) and serine, citrulline, aspartic acid and threonine (the primary blocks of NMF).

Independent clinical studies indicate substantial increases in collagen, hyaluronic acid and fibronectin synthesis for rapid skin repair and support.

Further biomimetic intervention innovated by Spiller replicated the skin's barrier function to create an 'environmental band-aid' or 'second skin'. The Rinazell Lacteal Active Substance Cream is rich in botanically sourced triglycerides, wax esters and fatty acids to duplicate sebum; free amino acids lactic acid to simulate NMF; and vitamin E and lecithin to fortify the natural acid mantle. The combination of Rinazell products reproduce the skin's natural environment to efficiently restore balance, calm and repair to impaired complexions affected by acute sensitivity, chronic reactivity, and post-operative conditions.

Rinazell remains an unsurpassed modern classic and is the choice of leading cosmetic surgeons, skin practitioners and aesthetic therapists for the consistent nurture and repair of compromised complexions.

For further information contact OMNIDERM Ph: 1300 301 007 or visit www.omniderm.com.au

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What would you change about your clients’ skin?

Biomimetic Skin Care

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dentaltechnique visualising the patients' aesthetic issues e.g. incorrect tooth proportion, lack of tooth display, canting, shifting, asymmetry and smile/face integration. We also had problems showing other professionals involved in the cosmetic dentistry process, such as ceramists, periodontists and orthodontists, what we were trying to achieve. In addition, because we had problems explaining things well to the patient and educating the patient about the issues, we wanted to increase their motivation for case acceptance. The Digital Smile Design technique increased the patients' motivation by making them understand the issues and valuing the solution. Usually dentists try to sell a solution without making the patient understand the problem. It is the worst way to sell something, as people don't value why they are being sold to.

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APJ 2: Will this technique be available in Australia soon and who is a good candidate for this procedure?

Dr Coachman: This technique is available in Australia. The Macquarie Street Centre in Sydney under the directorship of Dr David Dunn, one of Australia's leading cosmetic dentists, who is internationally renowned for his work, is an official accredited Digital Smile Design Clinic.

It is a known fact that the lower face exhibits signs of ageing more rapidly than the upper face and this often is due to gravity.

However, while lip plumping is one procedure that attempts to address the impact of an ageing mouth, teeth, and their contribution to the appearance of ageing, are starting to take centre stage. “Teeth whitening” is becoming one of the most utilised cosmetic (appearance enhancement) procedures, and while in the past dentistry was mostly about good hygiene and preventing disease, it has now branched into a whole new specialty area of cosmetic dentistry. Dr Christian Coachman from Brazil was recently visiting Australia to launch a new concept known as the Digital Smile Design, a technique of which he is the pioneer and is now also available in Australia. In this interview Dr Coachman explains the Digital Smile Design, its objectives and how it is contributing to mainstream anti-ageing procedures.

APJ 1: Dr Coachman, tell us a little about DSD technology, the technique, who developed it and how it came about?

Dr Coachman: I developed the concept of Digital Smile

Every single patient that can have a smile improvement is a good candidate – every single patient that isn't happy with their smile or that didn't realise yet that the smile can change their look is suitable.

APJ 3: What is the relationship between facial symmetry and your smile?

Dr Coachman: Faces are not symmetrical at all, we rather call it facial proportions – but nothing is symmetrical. 'Symmetry' doesn't mean beauty – 'harmony' means beauty – you can have asymmetric lines that are completely in harmony. There are a couple of rules of proportions, but I don't follow them – they usually divide the face in thirds, the distances between hairline and eyebrows, etc and so forth. I follow my eyes and the patient's eyes. The question is when you look at something – you either like what you are seeing or you don't like what you are seeing. A bunch of numbers and scientific measurements (as in facial symmetry measurements e.g. the law of thirds) don't really mean that you will like something. If a tooth is too long or too short for me the best way is to judge the way the tooth relates to the face and use your subjective understanding to judge.

Design. This system was developed due to the need to improve certain missing links in the Aesthetic Dentistry technique, such as improving the way we, as dentists, were

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Before Treatment

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Digital Smile Design The new anti-ageing tool that is changing faces and lives

By Dr Christian Coachman However, there are a couple of guidelines for the smile within the face:

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The tip of the upper teeth should be in harmony with the curve of the lower lip. When you are at rest or speaking you should show teeth.

The front teeth should be longer than the back teeth so that it creates a curve that goes up towards the back.

The back teeth should fill in the space on the buccal corridor of the mouth. You need a wide smile to fill in the space.

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i.e. the morphology of each tooth lip support – the upper teeth should give enough lip support

And what part of this do the appearance, shape, colour and position of your teeth play?

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Facial harmony – These are the most important factors for facial

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aesthetics. A beautiful smile can radiate to the rest of the face. You have some people that are not facially that beautiful, but they have a charismatic smile so that they become beautiful. It is about enjoying your smile. One has to feel comfortable with one's smile – it doesn't only have to be beautiful. There are also people who have not such a

perfect smile, but they enjoy smiling so much they create the charisma – that is why a smile is so powerful.

APJ 4: Can a smile makeover restore facial symmetry or alter facial symmetry?

Dr Coachman: A smile can definitely change the dimension of the lower part of the face so that it increases – even affecting some wrinkles, improving lip support, facial profile, thickness of the lip, etc.

APJ 5: Will your smile age you and can you restore youthfulness with a smile makeover?

Dr Coachman: A smile can definitely age someone – in colour and in shape – teeth can get smaller and yellower naturally. But if you repair these kinds of problems it can make the individual look more youthful and then you can restore a more youthful look by giving back some of these old proportions, sizes and better colour. You can make a patient look 10 years younger easily. What we don't want is to have a patient that is 60 years old and give them a smile of a 20-year-old. It looks ridiculous. My aim is to always plan for trying to make someone look 10 years younger. I would try to imagine this person's teeth, if she had perfect teeth when she was 40 to 50.

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APJ 6: Does the DSD technology allow for longevity in dental care?

Dr Coachman: Digital Smile Design is a concept to help diagnose

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the dental aesthetic issues, communicate these issues and educate the patient.

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The techniques that are used to restore the teeth are the same.

Longevity is totally related to the doctors' skills.

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APJ 7: How do you create the illusion of perfect facial symmetry through your technique?

Dr Coachman: Since not everyone is born with natural artistic

skills, most of the professionals need eyes to help them to see what they need to see. If you are artistic you can create something beautiful just by looking at the patient. However, very few dentists are able to do this – like a dental Michelangelo. One has to develop protocols to make aesthetic dentistry more democratic – to make normal good dentists get to a higher level so that we can help more people, and affect more patients positively. DSD is a democratic tool to help dentists that are not as artistic to see and plan better their cases.

For more information about Digital Smile Design, please contact Dr David Dunn, Medical Director, Maquarie Street Centre – Australia's accredited Digital Smile Design practice.

Tel 02 9247 1384.

Suite 1102, 135 Macquarie Street, Sydney www.macquariestreetdental.com.au

About Dr Christian Coachman CDT, DDS Dr Christian Coachman is a Brazilian dentist to the stars, graduated in Dental Technology in 1995 and in Dentistry at the University of São Paulo/Brazil in 2002. He is a member of the Brazilian Academy and Society of Aesthetic Dentistry and of the American Academy of Aesthetic Dentistry (AAED). Dr Coachman attended the Ceramic Specialisation Program at the Ceramoart Training Centre, where he also became an instructor. He has been working with many leading dentists around the world, such as Dr Van Dooren (Belgium), Gurel (Turkey), Fradeani (Italy), Bichacho (Israel), Ricci (Italy) and Calamita (Brazil). Currently he is the scientific coordinator of the e-learning website www.identalclub.com and is acknowledged as a world leader in Cosmetic Dentistry using digital imaging. Dr Coachman has lectured and published internationally in the fields of aesthetic dentistry, dental photography, oral rehabilitation, dental ceramics and implants.

About Dr David Dunn – Bachelor of Dental Surgery (Hons) USYD; FRACDS Graduating in 1981 from the University of Sydney with a Bachelor of Dental Surgery with Honours, Dr David Dunn has practised the latest techniques in dentistry over the past 30 years, and frequently lectures both in Australia and overseas. He has a national reputation as a leader in the field of cosmetic and implant dentistry and is regularly called upon to present and educate his fellow colleagues on the latest techniques and methods utilised in cosmetic dental treatment in both Australia and overseas – most recently at Ivoclar Vivadent's 'International Symposium on Aesthetic Dentistry' in Cairns, Queensland, 2012. Along with Dr Coachman, Dr Dunn has also lectured on implant surgery and implant-based prosthodontics for Nobel Biocare, the world's leading implant manufacturer, and published in numerous journals, including the esteemed International Journal of Prosthetic Dentistry. Dr Dunn practices at The Macquarie Street Centre and is restricted to Prosthodontics, specialising in cosmetic and implant reconstruction.

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A5M delivers another successful Conference World-leading experts in obesity, metabolic disorders and related diseases gathered in Melbourne on August 23, 24 & 25 for the 7th Annual AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine Conference (A5M). The theme this year was Obesity & the Metabolic Syndrome: An Integrative Practice and delivered some amazing new information bringing new insight into the often hidden and underlying causes that contribute to the global epidemic of obesity.

Dr Steven Dayan, A5M President Dr Nathan Francis, GM Helen Anton and Prof Garry Eggers

The conference commenced with an opening address

by Dr Nathan Francis, President of the A5M, heralding the growth of integrative medicine in recent years and the movement of practitioners’ clinical role, addressing the cause and not just the symptom for better patient outcomes. Dr Mark Donohoe, renowned expert in Nutritional and Environmental medicine for over 30 years, chaired the conference, introducing some of the world's leaders in Preventative and Anti-Ageing Medicine.

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Dr Thierry Hertoghe

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Dr Mark Donohoe

Dr Michael Zacharia

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INTERNAL MEDICINE Over 300 delegates, including Integrative GPs, nutritionists, naturopaths, pharmacists, researchers and aesthetic practitioners were brought up to date with the latest advances in hormone therapies when medically indicated by world-renowned Endocrinology Specialist Dr Thierry Hertoghe, MD (Belgium), who spoke about the most advanced US and European practices to treating obesity with hormone and nutritional therapies. His integrative approach was very enlightening and explained the reasons for the many challenges in not only achieving appropriate weight-loss outcomes, but also why many often regain their weight within 12 months.

necrosis, infections and biofilms, including tips for recognising and avoiding adverse outcomes, along with established protocols for managing and preventing complications.

Dr Ronald L. Moy (US) focused on skin tightening and improving the appearance of ageing skin by increasing the thickness of skin, while Dr Ralph Bright focused on the potential of measuring cell age to help slow the ageing process. The potential of stem cells for regenerative medicine was highlighted by world-renowned stem cell expert Dr

Professor Garry Egger focused on the 'obesity paradox' in ageing individuals, showing that moderate levels of obesity in some cases appear to protect against some disease. Environmental causes of excess body fat and inflammation termed NASTIES (nutrition, activity, stress, chropathology, inadequate sleep and environment) need to be further explored to help prevent chronic diseases, rather than focusing research on weight per se.

Other topics included the importance and impact of microbes and microflora by Dr Mark Donohoe and Warren Maginn respectively.

Janethy Balakrishnan Bokstrom (SE) addressed the interplay of insulin, leptin and ghrelin as fundamental in energy metabolism and appetite regulation.

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It was truly amazing to see how the various speakers presented the latest in evidence-based research, bringing to light new information on how the whole issue of obesity can be addressed with a greater degree of success through a more detailed assessment and personalised approach by determining the underlying causes contributing to the condition and sabotaging long-term weight management.

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EXTERNAL MEDICINE The External Medicine stream brought together the latest research and technological advancements in skin treatments, stem cell research, fillers and injectables, aesthetic procedures, laser and skin rejuvenation and lifestyle approaches to achieve best aesthetic outcomes.

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US facial-cosmetic plastic surgeon Dr Steven Dayan spoke about traditionally unrecognised filler complications and impending

Dr Steven Dayan

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Joseph Purita, from the US, and the regenerative ability of adiposederived stem cells was highlighted by Dr Farrid Nassif.

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The 2013 A5M Conference program included a comprehensive multistream of lectures about internal and aesthetic medicine through integrative evidence-based practices, equipping practitioners with the knowledge and tools to provide patients optimal quality of life. It was good to see several APAN member attending and gaining insight on a more scientific level of the factors that contribute to ageing and weight gain and the latest approaches, both medical and preventative.

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This year's event had definitely stepped up the aesthetic stream with a very diverse and comprehensive program. APAN supports this conference and would like to encourage as many of our members, both medical and aesthetic therapists, to invest in this unique and valuable conference program. Indeed, when it comes to anti-ageing, A5M is the undisputed authority for the very latest advances in anti-ageing and aesthetic medicine.

The 8th Annual A5M Conference with be held on August 16 and 17, 2014 at the Sofitel Melbourne on Collins with the theme: Stress & Ageing: Taking Theory to Practice.

Contact us to enquire about The AustralAsian Certification in AntiAgeing Medicine for Allied Health Professionals and The Fellowship in Anti-Ageing & Regenerative Medicine for Medical Practitioners.

AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine Ph: 03 9813 0439 E: enquiry@a5m.net W: www.a5m.net Tina Viney with Dr Thierry Hertoghe

Demonstrating Surgecal Proceedure

Assoc. Prof. Sinan Ali, Peter Ryan, Maureen Houssein-Mustafa, Terry Everitt and Prof. Ray Hayek

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Dr Steven Dayan showing his book to Tina Viney

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Dr Soraya Felix, Jeannie Devereaux and Dr Vivienne Taylor

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Splash Retail – the new concept in retailing Today's consumers have changed in their expectations and the way they chose products. To meet this new consumer trend products need to offer and allow for agility, flexibility and individuality David Suzuki explains: How many times have you considered taking on a new product line only to find out that you can't? What I mean by you “can't” is that changing an entire product line is quite a feat. You may have contracts with a supplier in the form of purchase order commitments, upwards of $4,000 of current inventory over 150 SKUs (stock keeping units) that you are finally beginning to understand, and absolutely no time to take on such an overwhelming project. Just as quick as your enthusiasm for a new product or product line comes into your mind, your sophisticated logic tells you that it is just too large of a project to take on right now. You rationalise to yourself that you will consider the transition again when things let up a bit, business gets stronger, etc. In the end, year after year, you end up with what you have – such is life.

Studies have shown that it is human nature (i.e. easier) to stick to what we are doing now regardless of how unsuccessful it may be, rather than go through all of the work to make a real change, as real change represents risk. The question that I pose to you is this; what is riskier, consistent failure and mediocrity, or a new opportunity to succeed? ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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A NEW CULTURE Experts such as Daniel Pink, the author of “Drive” have studied, observed and written about the massive culture changes that have evolved over the past decades and have come into full blossom during our most recent economy shift. The study of this new culture is quite broad, however, in short it suggests that we as a culture require more agility and flexibility, and in turn more individuality. This concept pertains and is applicable to how a business is run and interacts with its team, how the business chooses its vendors and suppliers, and in turn, how the business then brings this new culture to its clients.

How does this new culture translate to our business in the world of skincare? Today's consumer requires more selection and more freedom to select. This does not mean having a half-a-dozen brands, however, it does mean having at least a few interesting items to choose from, ranging from accent products to your primary brand(s). The reality of the matter is that if you look inside any one of our skincare drawers at home, there is not one of us that maintains one continuous brand. I know that this is the polar opposite to what every skincare manufacturer suggests and would like to see, while at the same time it is the reality of life – we know this by now.

PRODUCT DIVERSIFICATION The new trend in today's consumer also requires the freedom to select and create their own form of individuality. Starbucks has demonstrated this stronger than any other company that I have ever seen in that they have created a brilliant form of “focused options”, which has allowed every coffee lover to come up with their very own slightly special and unique drink. While at the same time they have been able to maintain complete consistency and success by making sure the selections available make sense to their core product and purpose.

Strategically, they have also fanned out with well selected non-coffee products that are now taking their sales numbers to a completely new level. Who would have ever thought that coffee could be reinvented at this stage in the game? Who would have thought that Starbucks could make nearly as much money off of non-coffee products as they do with their coffee products?

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NEW CULTURE VENDORS Do you remember a time not too long ago where there was a minimum “buy in” to “qualify” to be a retailer of a product line, combined with an intense and overreaching contract? I also seem to remember other requirements about retail areas, merchandising, and even the treatment room. Manufacturers believed that if there was not enough retail on the shelves that the retail area would not have enough impact, nor would the business really have a vested interest and reason to sell the product. If there was not a large enough retail area, that this would not allow appropriate merchandising and adversely affect sales. If the business carried more than one brand this would take sales from their brand. And the list goes on. The fact of the matter is that these are all valid points and can be true to a certain extent. However, these points can only be made in suggestion to today's new culture businesses. In short, today's business owner simply will not tolerate a skincare manufacturer telling them what to do and how to run their business.

This kind of rigid, forced control squashes creativity and individuality for the business and limits the options for its consumers. Remember our skincare drawer at home. If options are not available for the consumer in our business, they will find their options elsewhere.

SPLASH PRODUCTS Splash products are just that, splash or accent products that can be used with other products, or stand alone on their own. Well-designed splash products can be marketed and merchandised by themselves and look great on the shelf independent of a family of products. They are complete in concept, have their own individual brochure, are efficacious, well studied and scientifically proven, have a good look and a “sweet spot” attainable price.

Because of the nature of splash products, your investment can be what it needs to be for the size of your company and the budget you have to work within. Work with forward-thinking vendors that have NO minimum “buy ins” or crazy old school rigid requirements and contracts. Indeed, suggestions and tips for selling and marketing the brand are welcome and expected, as are large volume purchasing incentives. At the same time, we want the freedom to implement new products in our business how we see fit! After all, it is our business, right?

MEETING DEMAND

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Most product lines have an enormity of stockkeeping units, an average of 100, with some exceeding 200. Statistically, about 20% of the stockkeeping units are good movers and the rest collect dust. The reasons that some sell and some don't will vary all over the board. It could be the location on the shelf, the signage and marketing or lack thereof, what the skin therapist uses in the room, etc. More than anything, it has to do with what your team likes and uses personally, and what they are excited about. Because of this, they should be active participants in what you are bringing into the business for them to work with and sell, rather than trying to force them to sell something that they do not like and don't believe in. Your suppliers should be happy to supply you a few samples for all of the team to use and evaluate. Skin therapists often have a tough time selling as it is. If they do not believe in it – forget about it!

A LITTLE BIT, ALL THE TIME Above and beyond the flexible financial commitment that splash products represent, they are also easy to learn about, understand and market. Remember that we are talking about 2-4 products that you are generally moving in at a time, not 150 plus! This gives us plenty of time to test, use, study and be educated on by our partners (suppliers).

It allows us to focus on a small group of fabulous new product(s), opposed to a huge new overwhelming line!

Having this kind of focus, knowledge and team enthusiasm about new splash products can be incredibly powerful, to the extent that your splash products will likely outsell your historical base-line products.

As this occurs the wheels begin to turn and the light bulbs illuminate.

Maybe this is the way forward to diversifying your business, increasing customer satisfaction, team enthusiasm and explosive sales? And, maybe this provides your vehicle for a wellneeded change.

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OPPORTUNITY

If your current retail sales are explosive and consistently exceed 50% of your service sales, I would not change a thing. If you find yourself with the other 99% of us, then consider the opportunity that well manufactured and supported splash products can bring to your business.

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Remember to look for and work with suppliers who understand and function within the parameters of the new culture guidelines. No minimum purchases, no imposing requirements, complete education and marketing support, and have creative pricing incentives that celebrate your outstanding sales efforts! Find partners who want to work with you, respect your business, and will champion your success and individuality!

For more information on the advantages of Bio-Therapeutic technologies and skincare, please contact The Global Beauty Group on 1300 006 607 or visit www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au

BODILITE Quality Systems & Solutions (Medical Classified Devices with more efficient treatment parameters)

SUPER SHR / SSR IPL - New IPL Technology The new system combines laser technology and the benefits of IPL for painless results. Difficult hair can be treated through In Motion IPL program for speed, comfort and better protection of the skin. It provides a gradual thermal rise to the target therapeutic temperature without risk of injury eliminating the common problem of missed or skipped areas with comprehensive coverage to legs, arms and backs.

Normal IPLs with Multipulse modes focus energy on one pulse, so it is easy to burn the client, but SHR emits a single pulse mode for safer treatments. The SHR filtered violet light and infrared light absorbs water, targeting the skin with no side effects. SHR accelerates operation speed and shortens the time for treatments with 1-10Hz moving the head along the skin with a faster repetition rate of shots fired per millisecond requiring less time for treatment.

Our devices are tailor-made to our specifications.

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Grand Haven International

Increase your qualification and gain recognition We Offer Great Service – Great Results

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www.grandhaven.com.au | www.bodilite.com.au The Boulevard Centre, 12B / 68 Jessica Bvd, Minyama QLD

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The Role of Cortisol in Skin Health, Weight Management and Longevity

By Gay Wardle In recent years the role of Cortisol has been better understood and has been specifically linked to contributing to insulin resistance and weight gain. In this article Gay Wardle explains how this hormone secreted by the adrenal glands can orchestrate both health benefits, as well as how it can cause havoc to our health when excessively secreted.

Cortisol is known as “the stress hormone” because stress activates cortisol secretion. Understanding how cortisol can affect us, particularly regarding everyday stress and weight issues, is of importance in our overall good health, happiness, longevity and the results we are trying to achieve to stay younger looking.

Cortisol is an important hormone in the body, secreted by the adrenal glands. The adrenal glands are two small glands located just above the kidneys and they have two functions: The outer part of the glands is called the adrenal cortex and produces steroid hormones cortisol, DHEA, aldosterone and progesterone. The inner area, the adrenal medulla, produces adrenalin and nor-adrenalin.

Although stress is not the only reason that cortisol is secreted into the bloodstream, it has been termed “the stress hormone” because it is secreted in higher levels during the body`s “fight or flight” response to stress, which creates the heart-pounding and nervousness we feel.

While cortisol is an important part of the body`s response to stress, it is important that the body`s relaxation response activates so the body`s functions can return to normal following a stressful event.

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Unfortunately, in our current high-stress culture, the body`s stress response is activated so often that the body does not always have a chance to return to normal. Continuation of this will result in a state of chronic stress.

When there are high and prolonged levels of cortisol being released into the bloodstream it will result in negative effects such as suppressed thyroid function, poor immunity and inflammation, poor wound repair, hyperglycemia, decrease in muscle tissue and bone density.

system and how the body metabolises protein, carbohydrates and fats.

Normally cortisol levels rise and fall during the day, with the highest levels being present in the body in the morning and the lowest in the evening. Where some stress can be beneficial giving incentive to accomplish necessary goals, chronic stress is harmful, compromising the immune system, weight gain to developmental impairment.

CORTISOL EFFECTS ON THE IMMUNE SYSTEM High levels of cortisol have a very serious affect on the immune system. T-lymphocyte cells are an essential component of cellmediated immunity T-cells respond to cytokine molecules, which are called interleukins, via a signalling pathway. Cortisol blocks T-cells from proliferating by preventing some T-cells from recognising interleukin signals. High levels of cortisol in the bloodstream blocks these T-cells, preventing proliferation and stops T-cells from recognising interleukin signals. Apart from this, histamine secretion that is a vital part of the first stages of wound repair is inhibited. This increases the risk of infection prolonging wound repair.

CORTISOL AND WEIGHT GAIN With regard to overweight individuals, the restriction of calories through various dieting methods may, in some cases, mean that the body will not have enough calories, so it will secrete more cortisol.

Not only is this a signal for eating more and storing more, it is also one of the reasons why some people gain weight fairly quickly once they have been on a merry-go-round diet. Another response to this is weight gain, especially around the abdomen and hips region. Chronic levels of cortisol puts the body into a catabolic state where muscle is deteriorated and fat is stored around these areas of the body.

Elevated cortisol levels increase the risk of depression, memory loss and mental illness. The hippocampus, the region of the brain where memories are processed and stored, contains many cortisol receptors.

Where there is excess cortisol the hippocampus is overwhelmed, which in turn causes atrophy. Studies that have been conducted in senior people have shown those with high levels of cortisol display significant memory loss resulting from hippocampus damage.

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HOW DOES CORTISOL AGE THE SKIN?

High levels of cortisol will also have an affect on the circulatory

Studies have shown that excessive cortisol levels has been shown to

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decrease levels of connective-tissue growth factors and inhibit the activity of bone-building cells, muscle-building cells and cartilagebuilding cells. So excess cortisol levels not only accelerate the breakdown of connective tissues, but also interfere with the biochemical process of building and repairing those same tissues.

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The same scenario of increased loss and suppressed repair is seen in related connective tissues, such as skin, hair and nails. The actions of cortisol to enhance catabolism of many forms of connective tissues are well documented in medical literature, and while these problems may not be of the same health magnitude as osteoporosis, nobody wants to have dry skin, thin hair and cracked fingernails.

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Elevated levels of cortisol have been implicated in the acceleration of connective tissue destruction, while declining levels of estrogen (in women), testosterone (in men) and IGF-1 and growth hormone (in both sexes) are known to be part of our hampered ability to rebuild damaged tissue.

There is little information on how elevated cortisol levels affects skin, hair and nails, however, laboratory studies have shed some interesting light on the fact. Excess cortisol bears a wide range of adverse effects on the underlying biochemistry of the skin and related tissues.

Researchers in Finland have shown that while a low level of cortisol is able to stimulate the synthesis and slow the breakdown to approximately 25% of structural skin elements such as hyaluronan and proteoglycans, higher levels of cortisol have exactly the opposite effect, reducing synthesis and accelerating degradation of these compounds by more than 40%. Both hyaluronan and proteoglycans are responsible for hydrating the skin by attracting and holding adequate amounts of moisture, so reduced levels of these compounds in the skin mean that the skin dries out.

Similar effects have been noted for related skin proteins, such as elastin and collagen. These observations have led many researchers to hypothesise that elevated cortisol levels may be responsible for accelerated skin ageing and overall skin atrophy observed during drug treatment with synthetic cortisol.

PHENOMENON IN SALMON An interesting study has been conducted by marine biologists on the life of the poor old salmon. The salmon swims upstream for thousands of kilometres, spawns and quickly dies. The biologists found some very interesting things about the salmon when they caught them right after spawning and that was that they had a very poor immune system, a lot of infections, unhealed wounds and stomach ulcers. The biologist found that the salmon had outrageously high cortisol levels. They did a further study where they removed the adrenal glands of the salmon and lo and behold the salmon experienced no cortisol secretion and no rapid onset of death and lived on for another year.

CORTISOL LEVELS AND SKIN TREATMENTS Cortisol levels need to be considered when you are treating your client for ageing. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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The questions you ask during your consultation will give you vital information and you should seriously consider the cortisol levels of your client before treatment.

If your client answers yes to three or more of the following then maybe give some relaxing treatments prior to invasive treatments:

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Morning fatigue Heart palpitations

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Decreased concentration Decreased muscle mass Poor circulation (cold body temperature) Stress Depressed Anxiousness or nervous Irritable Memory lapses Sleep disturbances

CONCLUSION High levels of stress, even over relatively short periods and in vastly different contexts, tend to produce similar results such as prolonged healing times and heightened vulnerability to viral infection. Longterm effects of chronic stress produces further symptoms, which include increased abdominal fat and in extreme cases leading to Cushing`s Syndrome.

Research shows that while we can't turn off and on the 'cortisol tap' at will, we can control it by eating right for our body and lowering our stress levels that we build up every day. There are also several nutrients that assist with insulin resistance that are the result of high cortisol levels. These include Melatonin, 5HTP, Gaba and SaMe, which all work in different ways to calm the body and support it to cope better under stress. Being aware of the role of cortisol and the need to control this energy mechanism is a key factor in being healthy and happy and maintaining longevity.

REFERENCES:

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Fleckman D., (2000) The Nature of Stress & the Mind Body Connection Bob Goldman MD & R Klatz MD with John Gearon The Anti-Ageing Diet, Redwood Gwynn-Jones G., (1996)The High Cost of Stress Provident Medical Institute Adrenal Stress Index (ASI) M C Stoppler MD Cortisol, Stress and Weight Gain Randall M., (2010) The Physiology of Stress: Cortisol and the Hypothalamic-PituitaryAdrenal Axis Talbott S., (2001) The Cortisol Connection Talbott S., Counteracting the Effects of Chronic Stress

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As a qualified and experienced therapist Lisa is skilled and qualified in technical areas and brings those skills to the training program. Her extensive industry experience has won her an industry-specific award, and her love for this industry continues to motivate her to ensure others also structure and achieve the level of success that she knows they are capable of with the right training.

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As an industry professional, trainer and business coach, Lisa is passionate about this industry and is totally committed to the success of others.

SPECIAL OFFER If you believe that Lisa Chelsom can help you please give her a call and have a chat about your needs. As a Special Offer Lisa is offering businesses a 45-minute consultation valued at $150 totally free.

Why not take this offer and give her a call? It may be the best decision you have every made.

Cutting your niche as a SOLE PRACTITIONER OR HOME-BASED BUSINESS Coming towards the end of the year most businesses are reviewing their plans and direction for 2014. More and more we are finding smaller businesses choosing to downsize and re-establishing as a home-based business. In the past 3-4 years since the economic downturn the home-based business is now becoming a common phenomenon. However, while transitioning into this model has less risks, it also has its own share of challenges.

Skin Naturelle Ph: 07 3824 6406 | www.skinnaturelle.com.au

Common concerns are:

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Feeling isolated and needing direction and stimulation Wanting to upgrade, but not sure how to go about it with this model Standard marketing strategies for new clients do not work in this setting

WITH SUCH CHALLENGES WHERE DO YOU TURN TO FOR DIRECTION AND EXPERT ADVICE? Lisa Chelsom is the director and owner of Skin Naturelle a niche business specialising in boutique-style beauty business franchising.

She brings to this position a great deal of knowledge and expertise.

Lisa has worked extensively to develop a unique business model that ensures the home-based business comes into its own. This includes up-to-date professional services, as well as a carefully systemised business model with tailor-made protocols specifically designed to help home-based salons reach their full potential as viable and profitable businesses. ㄰ 㤵

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As each business has different needs Skin Naturelle has various modules to suit the specific requirements of the home-based salon.

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INDUSTRY AND BUSINESS EXPERTISE ㈵

As a competent and experienced businesswoman Lisa has worked extensively to develop a franchise system that defines and provides solutions specifically tailor-made for the home-based business's niche.

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Advance your knowledge and education to a higher level. MDA is now offering Post-Graduate courses to empower you for greater treatment results and business growth.

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With the advances in new equipment and skincare technology, heightened awareness by consumers and the collaboration between professional aesthetics and medical and anti-ageing practices there is now the need for education and specialised Post-Graduate training to support and deliver higher levels of expertise and advanced results.

Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS PROGRAM in 2011 to equip and empower you to make the transition with greater confidence into the realm of advanced treatment protocols for greater treatment outcomes.

Gay Wardle is without question today's leading and most influential educator in Australia. Winner of over 12 industry and business awards, she has a strong understanding of the aesthetics industry and the elements that are necessary for a successful salon or aesthetic practice.

Constantly investing in her own education and knowledge, she is not only passionate about training but simultaneously is undertaking a Bachelor's qualification with Victoria University.

MASTERCLASSES IN DERMAL TRAINING INCLUDE: ! One-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Two-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Three-day Journey to Understand and Empower your ! ! !

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Knowledge in Advanced Skin Evaluation Skin Preparation Programs to Optimise Results from IPL, Needling and Microdermabrasion Treatments to Target Pigmentation Understanding Ageing in the Skin and Treatments for Ageing Skin

ENROL TODAY

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Training Available in most States. For further details and to book Visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au | Email: gay@m-da.com.au or info@masterdermalacademy.com.au

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formerly Advanced Aesthetics

Masters Dermal Academy

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Taking the Heat out of MENOPAUSAL SKIN and Successful Strategies for Effective Anti-Ageing Solutions

By Matoyla Kollaras Hormonal changes during menopause can inflict havoc on your client's skin, from acne they haven't experienced since puberty, to lines and wrinkles that may appear overnight. But menopause does not need be a shock, horror affair. Here Matoyla Kollaras offers some useful advice on how to successfully navigate in dealing with your menopausal client and offer successful skintreatment solutions. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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WHAT IS MENOPAUSE? Menopause occurs as women reach their early to mid-50s, and is defined as the day a woman has been diagnosed as not having had a menstrual period for 12 consecutive months. This signifies the permanent cessation of her menstruation cycle. The period leading up to menopause is described several ways, as menopausal transition, peri-menopause or climacteric. During this time, which may proceed several years before menopause, fluctuations in menstrual cycles and hormone production occur, most notably a decline in oestrogen levels (hypo-oestrogenism). This is evident from the signs and symptoms that a woman may experience.

Oestrogen affects every organ system of the body, including the skin.

Oestrogen receptors are most abundant around the face, genital area and lower limbs. Therefore it appears as though these areas are particularly vulnerable to decreased amounts of circulating oestrogen and the reason for certain skin conditions involving these areas.

Symptoms during this transitional change include irregular periods, decreased fertility, vaginal dryness, hot flushes (occur in 85% of women), sleep disturbances, mood swings, increased abdominal fat and loss of breast fullness. There are also significant physiological and visible changes to skin such as dryness, or onset of acne (one in five),

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thinning and loss of firmness and elasticity. If this isn't challenging enough, add to the list the thinning of hair on the head and a seeming abundance of unwanted hair on the face and body. These changes can be demoralising to even the most grounded of women.

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WHAT CAUSES SKIN TO AGE? ㈵

The skin, like all other tissues, undergoes degenerative processes during ageing, and indeed the skin is the key organ in which ageingrelated changes are visible. Most women in developed societies can expect to spend one-third or more of their lifetime in the postmenopausal period (Kligman and Koblenzer 1997) when the external signs of ageing are of utmost importance for most.

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There are various factors that contribute to ageing skin, and while some are inevitable because of chronological ageing, there are others that can be controlled. As an aesthetician it is important wherever possible that you identify where your treatments, advice and recommendations can assist in minimising the effects of ageing.

HERE ARE THE AREAS TO CONSIDER: 1. Extrinsic Ageing (external) – contribute 70% of ageing Photoageing: Sun exposure and sun beds, expression lines,

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gravity, sleeping patterns

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Lifestyle factors: Pollution and other environmental aggressions that cause free radical damage.

2. Intrinsic Ageing (internal) contribute 30% of ageing

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Chronological ageing/natural ageing/genetic coding: Represents the structural, functional and metabolic changes in the skin that parallel ageing and degenerative changes in other organs Diet and nutritional deficiencies Smoking, alcohol and drug use Glycation – Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) Free radical damage Stress and fatigue Immune system deterioration Hormonal changes – particularly post- menopause Low-level on-going inflammation Infections and catabolic systemic illness Medication and medical treatments such as chemotherapy and radiotherapy

It is important to understand that the hormonal changes responsible for menopausal, such as acne, hair thinning/loss and/or unwanted hair growth on the face and body are as a result of the fluctuation in the ratio of oestrogen to testosterone in the body. Oestrogen levels plummet while testosterone levels decrease at a slower rate, so what women are actually experiencing is a relative increase rather than a real increase in testosterone levels.

Understanding the changes that occur to menopausal skin will enable skin therapists to correctly diagnose the skin and select appropriate treatment protocols to effectively assist this condition and significantly improve not only the appearance of the skin, but also the client's self-esteem.

Here are some of the symptomatic considerations:

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Due to these factors many women notice a sudden onset of signs and symptoms of skin ageing during menopause that often contributes to additional stress and depression. This is therefore a very important client sector that can benefit from your services, so what are the considerations?

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THE EFFECTS OF MENOPAUSE ON THE SKIN

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With the exception of puberty, there is no more challenging time for skin than when women go through menopause – including peri and post-menopausal phases. Like opposing forces of nature, the hormonal shifts during this period will often mean the skin can battle against both acne breakouts and wrinkles. As in puberty, acne during menopause can affect not only the face, but also the back and chest.

Furthermore, the same hormonal shifts that can cause these prepubescent skin issues in adult women are working on the other side to break down collagen and elastin, and thin the dermis, leading to an increase in dryness, fine lines and wrinkles. Women going through this time may also notice their skin lacks the lustre, radiance, elasticity and strength of more youthful skin. Some women may also notice facial-hair growth, or changes to hair (thinning) and nails (more brittle).

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Skin thinning – atrophy An increase in the pH of the acid mantle Decrease in lipid levels – insufficient serum release due to decrease in androgen levels Changes in water content – although water levels in the epidermis decrease, this is not always the case for the dermis. In fact, despite stable levels of hydrophilic glycosoaminoglycans (GAGs) in aged skin, these become abnormally deposited on skin proteins such as collagen, elastin, laminin, etc. and so cannot interact properly with water. Hence, in aged skin, water is found in the tetrahedron form, bound to itself, rather than other molecules, as you will find in younger, healthier skin Slowdown in dermal cellular metabolism – changes to collagen density Decrease in skin cell turnover and poorer desquamation Possible acne breakout on face and body Cross-linking of collagen and elastin, leaving the skin less flexible and increasing in protein folding Deeper lines and wrinkles, dynamic wrinkles, wrinkles at rest and skin fold lines Decreased skin immunity Increase in skin sensitivity Long-term damage to skin DNA Pigmentation changes – an increased risk of hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation Blood vessels in dermis become more fragile Capillary blood flow velocity decreases significantly Skin may become dull with signs of discolouration

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CLINICAL TREATMENT RECOMMENDATIONS FOR MENOPAUSAL SKIN

c. An increase in skin pH (disturbance of acid mantle) with signs of sensitivity: The correct pH of the skin should be between 4.8 5.5.

There is no doubt that complexities often present with menopausal skin that can give the therapist and their client definite obstacles when it comes to choosing treatments and products that best deal with these challenging manifestations.

As skin ages, however, the skin's pH increases, bringing its own set of problems, such as decreased immunity, compromised acid mantle and poor skin desquamation. When trying to correct this imbalance, the first thing you must do is determine what cleanser your client is using.

Most mass-market cleansers have a high pH (alkaline), as are several professional-only products. This type of cleanser is simply not suitable, we want to acidify the acid mantle, not make it more alkaline.

As a responsible aesthetician, each and every time you perform any treatments, you must be aware of your client's menopausal symptoms and any medications that they may be taking to ensure the best and safest treatment outcomes.

More specifically, factors to consider are:

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Is your client suffering from hot flushes, and if yes, how often and when? Is there a trigger factor for the flushes – coffee, hot spicy food ,etc.

Subjective feedback on their skin – does it feel dry or are they suffering with acne breakout, or both?

Is there any skin sensitivity/reactivity to any known ingredients?

New allergies – if yes, to what?

Have they experienced any new or unusual pigment changes?

These may need to also be checked by a doctor.

What are the possible side-effects of any medication that your client is taking and can they affect the skin?

Is menopause having a psychological impact on your client e.g. depression?

Cautionary considerations: If there are any severe reactions or contraindications further investigation may be needed, and at this point you should not treat without consulting a healthcare professional and work collaboratively with gentle options rather than aggressive treatments.

For some women hot flushes can be triggered by stress.

1. FACE TREATMENT RECOMMENDATIONS An accurate skin analysis is the key to choosing the correct facial treatment for your menopausal client. Often in menopausal skin, we may see opposing manifestations, for example: a. Adult acne without the oiliness: Treating adult acne is tricky.

Most acne products and treatments are geared to 'teens' oily skin, a bad choice for drier adult skin. Effective treatments often require a trialand-error approach that can take time. Although ingredients such as salicylic acid are extremely effective, there can also be unwanted sideeffects for the more reactive skin. Here is a tip – when treating adult acne, you must simultaneously respect the hydration and lipid levels, and be also aware of the possible sensitivity/hyper-reactivity of menopausal skin.

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b. Lipid deficiency and regular skin flushes: Due to a decrease in hormone levels, menopausal and aged skin can manifest with lipid dryness. Your client may also be suffering with hot flushes on a regular basis. When treating lipid deficiency, long, warm massages are highly beneficial in helping to stimulate sebaceous secretion. However, for clients who suffer regular hot flushes, this type of treatment is just too uncomfortable. Avoid treatments that are laden with heavy lipid-rich ingredients and products. Instead, choose treatments that simultaneously cool and hydrate the skin, while delivering micronutrients of ingredients such as essential fatty acids and lightweight good-quality lipids such as squalene, jojoba and grapeseed oils. In addition, keep the hands-on approach to a minimum; opt for pressure-point massage therapy, or use of cold stones or cool crystal balls for massaging could be a welcome relief.

Overall, the treatment should be temperate to cool in nature – no vapour and no hot towels.

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Mild skin-building treatments are best suited. Look for treatments that use low levels of acids, such as lactic and glycolic acid, to help correct the pH gently, and ingredients that help build the immunity and strength of the acid mantle, such as antioxidants, probiotics and natural moisturising factors. Sensitive/reactive skin does not tolerate strong acids, in this case, treatment protocol should be slower so that they can be safe.

2. FACIAL MASSAGE Facial massage and lymphatic drainage when indicated is perfect for menopausal skin.

This is because it: a. Stimulates blood flow b. Increases cellular respiration c. Increases dermal cellular metabolism d. Removes toxins e. Reduces stress in clients stress and emotional factors can trigger episodes of hot-flushes.

3. ACID PEELS Due to the degenerative manifestations of skin, acid peels are actually ideal as they promote a healthier, balanced pH, improve skin cell turnover, promote dermal collagen biosynthesis, prepare the skin for uptake of active ingredients and can effectively treat adult acne.

However, there are some issues that we need to take into consideration when treating aged skin with acid peels: a. First, you must restore skin to its healthiest and strongest state. b. Do not use strong, unbuffered acid peels, remember that some menopausal skin is more prone to sensitivity, reactivity, fragility, dehydration, poor wound healing and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Opt for milder acid peels or enzymatic peels (for enzymatic peels, often friction and heat is needed to activate the enzymes. Therefore, this type of exfoliation is not advisable for clients suffering regular hot flushes or those who are highly reactive). c. If your client is suffering regular hot flushes, strong acid peels are not indicated, as the peel will only add to the presence of the heat already present on the skin.

4. DERMAL NEEDLING AND MICRODERMABRASION a. Restore skin to its healthiest and strongest state first. b. Microdermabrasion is not indicated on fragile and translucent skin. c. Dermal needling can be used effectively, with the appropriate needle depth for the client's skin condition. However, use with absolute caution on fragile and translucent skin.

5. COSMETIC TATTOOING For safest and best results, all cosmetic tattooing must only be formed on skin that is healthy, strong and intact, and be done only by experienced practitioners.

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Further important considerations with cosmetic tattooing: a. Contraindicated on skin that is prone to skin reactions and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation b. Medications can impact on the pigment colour as well as the retention of colour in skin c. Some clients may have allergies to pigments

6. IPL TREATMENTS For safest and best results, all IPL treatments must only be formed on skin that is healthy, strong and intact, and only by qualified and experienced practitioners.

Further important notes: a. Contraindicated on skin that is prone to skin reactions and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation b. It may be better to treat hyperpigmentation with appropriate laser protocols c. For clients with regular hot flushes they may not tolerate IPL treatments. Patch testing is very important.

7. LED LED is a safe and highly beneficial treatment, but the correct protocols in terms of colour and wavelength will need to be selected and followed.

8. HAIR REMOVAL Keep in mind that for some clients, menopause will increase hair growth on face and body. In addition, some medications also stimulate hair growth. Therefore treatments with IPL or laser may have limited results.

Waxing is indicated, but sugaring and threading tend to be safer alternatives.

For electrolysis, you must determine the strength of your client's skin.

Keep in mind that menopausal/aged skin can be more prone to post-

inflammatory hyperpigmentation, poor wound healing and scarring.

For all hair-removal procedures, remember that you must take extra care with thin, fragile and sensitive skin.

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9. INJECTABLES (this is a medical practitioner only procedure) 1. Botulinum neurotoxin – Only effective in dynamic/expression line wrinkles. Once wrinkles become 'wrinkles at rest' or 'skin fold lines', this treatment is not effective.

2. Soft Tissue Fillers – One of the safest soft tissue fillers is hyaluronic acid, a component of all connective tissues, abundant in the human dermis. It is a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan biopolymer, which provides a fluid matrix or lattice on which collagen and elastic fibres may develop. Hyaluronic acid is hydrophilic in nature and attracts and retain water (Pollack 1999). The incidence of allergic reactions is so low that no allergy testing is required.

Corrections with hyaluronic acid generally last longer than with collagen.

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10. TOPICAL INGREDIENTS TO LOOK FOR When treating menopausal skin, the following ingredients are highly recommended both for salon treatments and for homecare: For menapausal acne control treat with caution or avoid acne-control ingredients that are specifically for teen oily skin, such as drying astringents (alcohol), alkaline cleansers, benzoyl peroxide. Salicylic acid has been shown to be very effective. Bear in mind that menopausal-induced acne has underlying hormonal imbalance, thus in some cases control rather than deletion of symptoms may be the most positive outcome.

Retinol Vitamin A (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate) is still considered the gold standard for ageing skin. Furthermore, retinol is also highly effective on acne, thus perfect for adult acne. As a cell communicator, vitamin A also has the ability to communicate with skin cells to look

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Tyrosinase inhibitors and lightening agents include: Kojic Acid, Azelaic acid, Liquorice and Bearberry extract as menopausal and aged skin is more prone to hyperpigmentation. Note that although the number of melanocytes decreases in older skin, the size of the melanocytes actually increases. Pigment-control ingredients therefore are a must in menopausal and ageing skin.

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Natural Moisturising factors and macro and micronutrients –

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These play a vital role in barrier homeostasis as they prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL), unite the stratum corneum layers protecting skin cells, restore and regenerate the epidermal lipid barrier and enable deep skin nourishment. Other valuable ingredients include:

and behave as younger and healthier skin cells. Vitamin A increases collagen production and decreases collagen breakdown. Note that topically applied retinoic acid is a Schedule 4 (S4) drug and can only be administered by medical practitioners.

Peptides Again, acting as cell communicators, peptides are made up of long chains of amino acids that communicate with cells in the body. As the body ages, the communication between cells is disrupted. Peptides help increase the communication, which results in dramatically healthier and younger skin.

Here are some to look for: Quintescene: Dipeptide-4 – antioxidant-stimulating peptide Matrixyl 3000: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 – collagen-stimulating peptide Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate and Acetyl Glutamyl Hexapeptide-3 – these peptides will help reduce the appearance and slow down the onset of expression wrinkles. These peptides are useful adjuncts to botulinum injections Carnitine – improves mitochondrial function Collaxyl: Hexapeptide 9 – unique deep-penetrating peptide known to repair collagen breakdown.

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Hyaluronic acid, Sodium PCA, Glycine, Fructose, Urea, Sodium to enhance skin hydration levels. Jojoba, olive, sesame and coconut oils, ceramides, shea butter and seabuckthorn to offer skin nourishment.

Calcium and Magnesium, which are the most important minerals for healthy functioning skin, and Vitamin D, which should be taken internally for numerous health benefits, including safer sun exposure and to assist in the uptake of calcium.

Additionally a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with a minimum of 15 SPF is a must. Look for products that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Both of these ingredients also function as antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents, and they tend to be less reactive.

Hormonal Replacement Therapy (HRT) Bio-identical hormones can be prescribed by healthcare professionals following blood tests to determine exact deficiencies. This is highly recommended to support hormonal balance deficiencies.

Topical application of phytonutrients (plant hormones) such as isoflavins can also fight some of the menopause-associated skin problems. Look for ingredients such as: soy, liquorice, wild yam, ginger, sage and black cohosh. Liquorice is also an effective skinlightening agent, and black cohosh is also indicated for acne.

Glycolic acid We have already discussed the use of acids in treatments. For home care, products such as cleansers, toners and night creams with safe, low levels of acids (ensure that the products have an acidic pH) used on a regular basis are highly effective. Glycolic acid encourages natural skin rejuvenation, lightens and smoothes, and prevents undesirable cell division for a healthier, more youthful appearance.

Glycolic acid is also the only acid that stimulates collagen production.

Resurfacing products should only be used at night. Gentle exfoliation is the key.

Superceuticals – Powerful antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents

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For more intensive treatments, superceuticals will help you achieve excellent results in helping to repair DNA damage, boost the skin's own defence system, scavenge free radicals, destroy non-visible infections, promote wound healing, encourage natural cellular regeneration and boost collagen synthesis, among many other benefits. Look for: Glutathione, resveratrol, astaxanthin, coenzyme-Q10, alpha lipoic acid, ferulic and phytic acid (both also function as skin-lightening agents), lycopene (also has testosterone-regulating benefits so ideal for menopausal acne), centella asiatica, carnitine (a peptide that also improves mitochondrial function), tumeric, calendula, sulphur, zinc, niacinamide (also effective on acne), omega fatty acids (also natural moisturising factors), usnea (lichen moss).

Other hormonal treatments include DHEA and Melatonin or Melatonin regulators such as 5-HTP and GABA. These, however, should be prescribed by a healthcare professional.

CONCLUSION An increasing number of products and procedures exist to help menopausal skin. When dealing with menopausal symptoms first, you need to consider lifestyle issues such as sun exposure, nicotine abuse, diet and nutritional deficiencies must be carefully considered and only then can other methods be used. There may also be a need for medical intervention, such as oral HRT and other medication, or your client may wish to see a healthcare practitioner for some natural alternatives and dietary recommendations. In any case, a thorough knowledge of your client's medical history, medications and current skin manifestations need to be thoroughly assessed to determine any limitations and identify any potential complications of treatments or products you may use. Your client will also appreciate the extra care that you take with her skin during this incredible yet often challenging time in a woman's life.

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Matoyla Kollaras is the Director of Skin Factors Pty Limited and the Australian Agent for Christina Cosmeceuticals and AHAVA Australia.

For further information phone: 1800 824 282, 02 9663 1283 www.ahava.com.au

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

SCIENTISTS DISCOVER HOW TO FREEZE SKIN CELLS SO THEY DON'T AGE Scientists have discovered how to freeze adult skin cells so they don't age. They can then be changed into stem cells and used later in life for rejuvenating surgery. The pioneering technique is now available as a cosmetic procedure, although researchers hope the technology could also be used to help disfigured or injured patients.

It is thought only celebrities and the very rich will invest in the procedure, which involves skin and blood samples being taken from clients and stored to make a 'back-up' version of their cells frozen at their current age. The sample cells are manipulated to become stem cells that can be grown into any type of body tissue. These are stored at minus 180C and copies are stored at three 'banks' in Singapore, Dubai and Switzerland to ensure there is always a back-up. Scéil, the Singapore company behind the procedure, is the first in the world to offer the service.

Your cells are stored for your lifetime until you have a need in the future for treatment with the latest regenerative medicine techniques. This technology may have the potential to reverse, or even cure, disease and repair damaged tissues. Your preserved cells will maintain their existing “fitness” levels while the rest of your cells continue to age.

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Sleep deprivation can increase the signs of ageing in the skin and decrease the skin's ability to recover after sun exposure, a recent clinical trial indicates.

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LACK OF SLEEP MAY SPEED UP SKIN AGEING

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In a blog earlier this year, Dr Choulika compared storing stem cells to backing up a PC. Dr Choulika wrote at the time: “Just like the simple act of backing up your computer has become routine, so too could the act of backing up your stem cells now, before you regret not doing so in the future.”

To undertake this service will cost you a mere AUD$68,000. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article-2415820/Key-eternalyouth

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Researchers at University Hospitals Case Medical Center, Cleveland, examined 60 premenopausal women between the ages of 30 and 49, with half of the participants categorised as having poor sleep quality, according to a new release.

This classification was made based on average duration of sleep and the Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index.

Participants were given a visual skin evaluation and non-invasive skin tests such as UV light exposure and skin barrier disruption. Participants also completed sleep logs for one week to quantify sleep duration.

Poor-quality sleepers demonstrated increased signs of intrinsic skin ageing such as fine lines, uneven pigmentation and reduced elasticity. Good-quality sleepers recovered more efficiently from skin stressors.

Sunburn recovery was slower in those who got poor-quality sleep, with erythema remaining higher over 72 hours.

Using a transepidermal water loss test at various points, good-quality sleepers had recovery 30 per cent higher than poor-quality sleepers. “Sleep-deprived women show signs of premature skin ageing and a decrease in their skin's ability to recover after sun exposure,” Elma Baron, M.D., the study's primary investigator, said in the news release. The study was commissioned by Estée Lauder.

REF: http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com/dermatology-times/news/lack-sleepmay-speed-skin-aging#sthash.Lsqop866.dpuf

LOOKING YOUNGER IS NOT JUST ABOUT VANITY As employment age is now extending beyond the 60s for many Baby Boomers, looking younger is a concern and is not just about vanity. A new poll conducted by marketing and research company Penn Schoen Berland indicated that looking younger is not just about vanity. Forty-two per cent of women aged 50-59 stated that they need to look young in order to compete in the marketplace and be successful in their profession, with both men and women becoming more anxious about looking older.

In fact, more and more men are looking at cosmetic procedures in order to look younger and compete in the workplace with younger graduates entering the market. The corporate client is now become a market sector that are looking for quick, but effective procedures that can offer them a refreshed and more youthful appearance.

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MAKEUP PROVEN TO BE RECESSION-PROOF

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Despite difficult financial times colour cosmetics have been able to hold their sales figures in recent years as consumers consider this category as offering a necessary commodity to cheer them up and make them feel better.

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The trend for glamorous eyes has seen high competition with mascara formulations, while eyelash extensions are constantly seeing growth in demand.

Foundations have moved from just offering basic coverage to a multifunctional product through the introduction of the BB and CC creams that can deliver several benefits such as sun protection, anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory as well as antioxidant properties all in just the makeup products. No longer are consumers just looking for a foundation, they are now demanding a skincare makeup.

Furthermore, there is a resurgence of interest in cosmetics with natural ingredients that consumers can recognise and are considered safe to use. Organic makeup is currently experiencing consumer-driven

growth, and we are seeing some new innovative brands that are able to deliver a much wider diversity of colour that can offer glamour and prestige without the exorbitant price tag.

OMEGA 3 NOW SHOWN TO BENEFIT AGAINST SUN PROTECTION AND PROBLEMATIC SKIN We all know that taking fish oil internally is good for our health, now a new study at the University of Manchester in England has found that taking a regular dose of fish oil boosts skin immunity to sunlight and could complement the use of sunscreen for protection.

The first human clinical trial to examine the impact of fish oil on the skin's immunity analysed the effect of taking omega-3 on 79 health volunteers.

Results of the study, funded by the Association of International Cancer Research and published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition found that taking a regular dose of fish oil boosted skin immunity to sunlight.

Specifically, it also reduced sunlight-induced suppression of the immune system, known as immuno-suppression, which affects the body's ability to fight skin cancer and infection.

The study adds to the evidence that omega-3 is a potential nutrient to protect against skin cancer. Although the changes found when someone took the oil were small, they suggested that a continuous low level of chemoprevention from taking omega-3 could reduce the risk of skin cancer over the individual's life. Another study identified the benefits of essential fatty acids in omega-3 fish oil was also highly beneficial for acne and problematic skin conditions and is currently being introduced also in skincare formulations for topical use.

Smad3. The researchers used digital images and image analysis software to analyse the results, which were published in Cosmetic Dermatology, September 2013.

IPL MAY REDUCE ACNE BREAKOUTS ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Intense pulsed light treatments increase the expression of transforming growth factor beta1 (TGF-β1) in the skin of patients with mild-tomoderate acne, and this action may help explain its efficacy in reducing acne breakouts.

Musheera M Ali, MD, of the Department of Dermatology, School of Medicine, Cardiff University, Cardiff, UK, analysed biopsies taken from 20 patients at baseline, 48 hours after one IPL treatment and one week following treatment. The biopsies were immuno-histochemically analysed to determine the expression of TGF-β1 and the immunolocalisation of

They write, “Intense pulsed light elicited a consistent increase in epidermal TGF-β1 expression (B2 vs.

B1: P = 0.004 and B3 vs. B1: P = 0.007).

Furthermore, it resulted in enhanced nuclear immunolocalization of Smad3 (B2 vs. B1: epidermis, P = 0.000055 and dermis, P = 0.014; B3 vs. B1: epidermis, P = 0.00024 and dermis, P = 0.008).”

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REF: Dermatology Today

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MORE RESEARCH POINTS TO BROCCOLI SPROUTS AS A NATURAL SUNSCREEN A diet heavy in cruciferous vegetables, such as broccoli sprouts, has shown potential riskreduction properties for colorectal, prostate and various other forms of cancer. Dr. Dickinson's research currently focuses on how sulforaphane – a naturally occurring compound in broccoli with established chemopreventive properties could possibly be used to help individuals reduce their risk for skin cancer.

What sets Dr. Dickinson's research apart? Instead of eating broccoli to unlock the risk-reduction nutrients, she's asking patients to apply small doses of sulforaphane to their skin. Think of it as a broccolibased sunscreen additive. "Even though there is heightened awareness about the need for limited sun exposure and use of sunscreens, we're still seeing far too many cases of skin cancer each year," Dr. Dickinson said. "We're searching for better methods to prevent skin cancer in formats that are affordable and manageable for public use. Sulforaphane may be an excellent candidate for use in the prevention of skin cancer caused by exposure to ultraviolet rays.”

Dr. Dickinson, a research assistant professor in the Pharmacology Department at the University of Arizona and a UA Cancer Center member, began investigating broccoli's chemopreventive properties when she began her postdoctoral studies in 2005.

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So how would topical broccolibased ointments differ from the products currently available in stores? Dr. Dickinson's research shows that sulforaphane is a highly adaptable, highly effective agent when it comes to inhibiting cancer-causing pathways (such as the AP-1 protein), while activating chemoprotective genes (such as the Nrf2 gene). Her pilot study in collaboration with Johns Hopkins University, will test a topical broccoli sprout solution on the skin of a group of patients to see if the compound is effective in the context of solar-simulated light. Previous studies have shown that the extract is quite safe for both topical and oral administration.

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If the research proves to be successful, Dr. Dickinson believes this could lead to even more applications for sulforaphane. "Sulforaphane is the kind of compound that has so many incredible theoretical applications if the dosage is measured properly," Dr. Dickinson said.

"We already know that it is very effective in blocking sunburns, and we have seen cases where it can induce protective enzymes in the skin.”

In Australia sulforaphane is available as a nutrigenomic nutritional supplement known as DefenCell through Cell-Logic Pty Ltd Ph: 07 3041 4091.

REF: http://www.sciencedaily.com

FREEZE TIME LIKE NEVER BEFORE What if there was a beauty treatment that could freeze time and turn back the clock on ageing skin like never before? This is exactly what the Venus Freeze™ thermal magnetic device is designed to do and it has been causing a stir around the globe with its promise of changing the face of dermatology forever. Venus Freeze™ is a non-surgical body contouring device that delivers brilliant results in the treatment of cellulite, skin tightening and wrinkle reduction.

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The power of magnetic therapy is gaining undoubtable recognition from skin therapists, beauty editors and Hollywood's elite who are turning to the Venus Freeze™ for instantly noticeable results that can leave patients skin in pristine condition after just 6-8 sessions. The feedback speaks for itself – Venus Freeze™ patient Barbara gushes, “The results are unbelievable, every time I have another session of Venus Freeze I am astounded at how fast the results come. My face seems tighter, rosier, luscious and glowing. That is just a beautiful thing for any woman to experience.” It is fast becoming a popular 'lunch break beauty fix' thanks to its non-invasive, painless treatments. In fact, the Venus Feeze™ is the number one skin tightening treatment in the world today and continues to offer rewarding and limitless opportunities to market-leading and business-savvy beauty professionals.

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For details contact: The Global Beauty Group on 1300 660 687 www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au

THE LATEST WORD IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS IS FLAVOUR According to a recent cosmetic conference report in the UK there is a new trend in product formulations emerging. We all know about colour and fragrance, now the new trend in makeup and skin products is flavour. Manufacturers are recognising that moisturisers, lipstick, lip balms etc are more regularly used if they not only smell good, but also taste good.

The new vogue flavours are vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, melon and peppermint. These flavours are considered appealing and will ensure the consumer will feel more comfortable to use their product more often. Flavours, particularly when they are foodbased, are desirable to the user as they also suggest a more wholesome and safer product.

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STROKE RATES INCREASING AMONG YOUNGER PEOPLE

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Your risk of stroke increases with age, with most occurring after age 55. However, younger people are increasingly at risk, according to the latest statistics.

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The rate of strokes among younger people (under age 55) nearly doubled between 1993 and 2005. The primary driving forces behind this are increasing rates of obesity, diabetes and high blood pressure which can all increase your risk for suffering a devastating stroke.

Stress is also a significant risk factor for stroke, just as it is for a heart attack. According to a 2008 study in Neurology, the more stressed you are, the greater your stroke risk especially a fatal one.

Heart attacks and stroke have many other risk factors in common, including:

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Obesity, high blood sugars and chronically elevated insulin levels High triglycerides, high LDL, low HDL, and elevated homocysteine levels Smoking and excess alcohol consumption High blood pressure Inadequate or ineffective exercise

What type of exercise A new study shows that vigorously exercising at least four times per week can reduce your risk of a stroke, especially if you're a man; the

results are unclear if you're a woman. Studies suggest that women may respond better to less vigorous exercise, such as walking, although most studies don't take into account that all forms of cardio are not equal. According to experts vigorous exercise is important for overall health, but conventional cardio is risky due to the extreme stress on your heart, which may cause inflammation, plaque, arrhythmias, and even heart attack or stroke. Regardless of one’s gender or age, you can optimise your exercise benefits by doing highintensity interval training, which pushes your body hard enough for a challenge, while allowing adequate time for recovery and repair. You can further reduce your stroke risk by getting adequate sunshine for the vitamin D and nitric oxide benefits and consuming adequate fibre, especially the soluble variety.

GEN Y CONCERNED ABOUT AGEING SKIN Gen Y is an excellent growing target market for skin therapists and salons. Several studies conducted to investigate the habits of women aged 25-34, otherwise known as Generation Y, indicated that they are more critical about their skin and concerned about wrinkles, pigmentation and signs of ageing than past generations. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Gen Ys are at a critical age group when stress, hormonal changes and work pressures can wreak havoc on their skin.

They are openly seeking solutions and open to being guided about how to best protect and improve their skin. This group offers great opportunities for salons and clinics to formulate educational programs and treatment packages specifically targeted to meet the needs of this age group. Finding the right moisturiser, skin protection, or solution to breakouts are the key areas that concerns them. In the US Gen Ys represents 18% of the facial skincare users and they also believe that preventing ageing is important.

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THE BIRTH OF A GLOBAL LEADING BRAND

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VITAMAN

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By Tina Viney ㈵

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When passion meets determination the results can be extraordinary.

This is the amazing story of how a local brand achieved international success.

It was back in 1997 when I first met two amazing people – Glenn Kiddell and Clare Matthews, while I was then the editor of another publication. Glenn was a naturopath and herbalist and Clare was an international skincare lecturer, hairdresser and makeup artist. Having returned from a global research trip with the realisation of the massive gap in the male skincare market they decided to do something about it.

They each had over 20 years’ experience within both the beauty and wellness industry. Their passion for natural, pure quality active herbal ingredients was something that was quite evident. We had several meetings where they discussed their desire to introduce a quality product that could make a difference to the male market. November 1999 saw the launch of VitaMan in Sydney, with a modest nine shave and face body products.

Within two years they created the world's first male exclusive professional spa range, which also included their renowned male destressing massage techniques. Defined by its unique pure and natural botanical formulation and being Australian made, gave VitaMan an attractive point of difference as a quality all-male product that the world was waiting to be introduced to.

Ten years later through sheer perseverance, passion and faith in their product, VitaMan is now globally recognised in over 35 countries and is sold in numerous prestigious resorts, day spas and selected highend department stores globally. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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QUALITY FORMULATIONS While much of the success of the VitaMan products is owed to the amazing brand development and extensive marketing campaigns, it is quite evident that the essence of its success lies in its formulation.

Working closely with leading Australian research scientists with expertise in Australian indigenous plants, fruits, herbs and Aboriginal Bush Medicine led to the uniqueness of the VitaMan formulations that contain only what the skin and hair need. Natural anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and cell rejuvenating and healing properties are offered

in every product, each formulated to work synergistically with each other for maximum results. VitaMan products are also free from commonly used synthetic chemicals, including sulphates, parabens, glycols, mineral oil, phthalates, ethanol TEA and DEA, lanolin and artificial colours and fragrances. Herbal extracts and Australian botanicals such as Kakadu plum extract, Australian wild Rosella (hibiscus flower) extract, Quandong seed oil, lemon myrtle, grass lily, blue cypress oil and eucalyptus are just some of the highly active ingredients that provide the skin with well-needed anti-oxidant protection, vitamins, nutrients, healing and hydrating benefits.

INTERNATIONAL BRAND REPUTATION With over 13 years of international success, VitaMan has been the recipient of nine global awards in recognition of their quality, including the prestigious Barneys NEW YORK award “Best Selling Independent Men's Grooming Brand” and Galeries Lafayette Paris Award for the “No.1 International Men's Skin Care Brand.”

We recently caught up with Clare and asked her to share some of her experiences with the male market and offer advice to businesses who may wish to extend their services to include a male-exclusive brand.

APJ 1: Clare, tell us from your research and experience how are men different to women both in their purchasing decisions and in how their skin differs?

Clare: Research shows that women buy with emotion and men buy through practicality – what does it do, how does it work, what are the results it can offer me? So when you are targeting the Male Grooming Market, it's crucial you offer men the solutions to their problems, compared to say a 'feel good' type purchase.

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Physiologically the average guy's skin is 20% thicker than a woman's, but thins over time due to hormonal changes. With thicker skin that's

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richer in collagen and elastin levels, men age more gracefully than the fairer sex. When it comes to wrinkles, men have the upper hand.

However, as they age, a man's skin begins to thin. That, coupled with a lifetime of environmental stress, tends to even up the score, eliminating the advantages over women they once enjoyed – an argument for taking care of their skin from an early age.

Men also have larger pores (for oil and hair), which make them more susceptible to acne, blackheads and ingrown hairs. Men have smaller, more active sebaceous glands that produce oil and sebum for much longer in their lives than women. In addition, they have about 50% fewer nerve endings in their skin than women, which may diminish their sensation of damage when it occurs.

Overall, they sweat more, feel damage less and generally have dirtier skin than women. And, it's often so oily it could reflect the headlights from oncoming cars. Daily shaving partially offsets this but can, in itself, cause a range of other problems, including rashes, chafing and mechanical stress and spot dryness.

With all this, a daily maintenance regiment and a few preventative measures, including deep cleansing, using shaving products for their

skin types and using a moisturiser containing sufficient SPF for protection against sun, can go a long way towards preserving their good looks and avoiding a range of potential health issues.

But, to fight against enemies to their skin, they need to first understand the arsenal of technology and products at their disposal – in true scientific, clinically proven terms. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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APJ 2: Speaking of physical differences between men and women, are there any ingredients in your products that work particularly well on men? If yes, which ones, and how?

Clare: As VitaMan offers the world's most comprehensive range of Men's Shaving, Skin and Haircare products, there are so many products that have been developed just for male-specific issues. With

Shaving for example, it's a male daily ritual that for many men can be a daily pleasure or worse nightmare, depending on their skin or type of beard growth etc. VitaMan spent over two years on R & D to find both unique and scientifically-proven Australian natural plant and herb extracts that could offer real solutions, such as Grass Lily Extract (heals shaving nicks and cuts), Blue Cypress Oil (antiseptic/antiinflammatory), Wild Rosella Extract (a powerful skin anti-oxidant and cellular regenerator), Kakadu Plum (powerful collagen stimulant), Quandong Seed Oil (Scalp cleanser and antiinflammatory) to name a few.

APJ 3: Why do you think skincare is important for men to who work out in the gym, are doing sports indoors or outdoors, or even those involved in professional athletics?

Clare: Whether it's a gym workout, triathlon event or a boxing

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session, every time a guy trains he sweats, hence his skin gets dehydrated. Workouts can also lead to skin problems such as acne and blackheads. Therefore it’s important guys take extra care of their skin.

Using an antibacterial face and body wash post-workout will help prevent any skin infections, a good, skin scrub will help prevent acne and blackheads developing, and a good natural skin moisturiser will maintain skin hydration and f l e x i b i l i t y. U l t i m a t e l y, whether you are a professional sports star or just a weekend warrior, there's no point in developing a great athleticlooking body if you ignore taking care of your skin, which is the first thing people look at.

APJ 4: Looking at your ingredient listing there are quite a number that relieve sore muscles or treat muscular pain, like black mountain pepper oil, cinnamon leaf extract, emu oil, eucalyptus oil and so on.

Are those especially good for men?

Clare: When it comes to VitaMan's Sports Range, this can be considered a uni-sex Sports Range. Sports related issues cross over to both sexes, so sports-related muscular aches, pain and inflammation are commonly shared problems. Highly effective, VitaMan's Desert Muscle Rub will alleviate all muscle aches and pains and is the perfect pre and post-exercise Muscle Crème for both males and females, while the Pawpaw Skin Repair Crème will soothe and heal all sportsrelated skin grazes, cuts and rashes quickly.

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APJ 5: Men who work outdoors or are involved in outdoor sports are exposed to sun damage, do you cater for such circumstances?

Clare: Of course men often spend a lot of time outdoors, training or due to their occupation, more often than not in hot, sunny conditions,

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This results in both skin dehydration, redness and increased heat and skin damage caused also by the sun's free radicals, speeding up of the skin's cellular ageing process, and possible skin cancers as well. Of course most are aware of this, and use various sunscreens to help block out damaging UVA and UVB rays, however, damage to the skin still occurs and you often see the results in these athletes as their skin ages a lot quicker later throughout their life than other men. VitaMan has developed a whole Anti-ageing Skincare Range to both help prevent and repair prematurely sun-damaged skin with powerful anti-ageing skin protection and wrinkle smoother serums, all containing natural antioxidants and collagen-repairing properties. Intense skinhydrating serums also help put lost moisture back into the skin. Of course the most effective, natural and easiest solution is to keep hydrated internally with pure water, during and post exercise.

APJ 6: What about the average office worker or corporate guy, can you tell us what regime you would recommend for them and why?

Clare: For businessmen, it's all about first impressions, being able to portray a clean, professional image instantly and, of course, afterhours, first impressions are important too! Nowadays there are so many looks for guys: clean shaven, designer stubble or the George Michael (the few days growth look), which even though it looks like they haven't shaven, to do it right, the neck and jawline has to be clean/hair free. Some guys even go to the trouble of conditioning the facial hair (with leave-in conditioner) so as not to be too spikey.

The best motto for a great shave (and life in general) is if you fail to prepare you prepare to fail, so we try to educate men about analysing their beard growth and shaving with the direction of the hair's growth and then across the direction (never against the hair direction as this can cause ingrown hairs). Guys just love the information/education, you don't have to shave them, just inform them.

Where our shave products differ from the regular supermarket/mass market brands, is that we offer true protection between the skin and the razor blade. Most foams are shaved off in one sweep of the blade, leaving the skin unprotected, and shaving over a second time can cause razor burn and irritation. Our Shave Oil, Crème and Gel lubricate and protect the skin, allowing the gentlemen to go back and shave the area a second time to get closer without any irritation.

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The Indigenous ingredient Grass Lily that we use in our shave crème is the perfect protection and great if guys were to nick themselves. It was traditionally used by Aborigines within the northern and western areas outside of Sydney, where they crushed the plant and rubbed the juice on sores, cuts, insect bites and sunburn as it promoted rapid healing of the skin. It was used to heal burns, cuts and abrasions, relieve itching, skin irritations and insect bites. It's also been scientifically validated in studies that showed it increases rapid cell multiplication, hence quickening the healing process of the skin. I was on a holiday in Fiji and was severely sunburnt on the lower part of my legs (feel asleep under an umbrella) and applied the shave crème to my legs. Normally I would have blistered and peeled, but it repaired the skin without any blistering or peeling. My doctor said just keep on using what you're using. I rotated between the Shave Crème and the After Shave Balm because they truly are like first aid.

As we've been on the market now for 13 years, our formulas have certainly stood the test of time, but with the recent changes to the EU Cosmetic rules we decided to take the opportunity to upgrade all our formulas by adding certified organic ingredients. We've also discontinued using purified acqua and replacing it with concentrated organic white tea. Fifteen years ago when we started developing and formulating the range we believed that the future was antioxidants, today we still believe in antioxidants and are so proud of our new formulations, including the organic white tea base. Below are some steps that we'd recommend for any man wanting a great shave and sharpening their personal image.

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APJ 84

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FOR SHAVING: 1. Face & Body Cleanser – our pH balanced cleanser and pre

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shave skin/beard softener is an all-in-one product that men love for the convenience of multi-use products.

2. Shave oil – can be used as a pre-shave softener or used alone for electric and/or razor shaves. Our Shave Gel and Shave Crème layer perfectly on top of the Shave Oil to give extra protection for sensitive or coarse beards.

3. Shave Gel or Crème – pure protection from the razor blade.

Our Gel is 100% clear, so men can create designer shapes and outlines as they can see where they're shaving, opposed to a shave foam that is all bubbles and full of harsh chemicals to cause that huge lather.

4. After Shave Balm – to calm and soothe shaved or inflamed skin, it's like first aid in a tube. Sometimes guys make the mistake of putting After Shave Cologne directly on to the areas of the face/neck which is full of alcohol and stings like crazy. We teach them how to calm and soothe the skin with this amazing Balm. It's also great for guys who wax or shave anywhere over their body. It's antibacterial and very cooling.

5. Face Moisturiser – to hydrate and protect from dehydration and in particular environmental damage. Air-conditioning and heating at work can really dry anyone's skin. This is our top seller. It intensely hydrates, but leaves a matt finish, which men prefer.

6. I-zone – eye and lip treatment, especially for fine lines and wrinkles, as well as dark circles and puffiness, women love it too.

PERSONAL HYGIENE: ㈵

It's extremely important to use a natural body deodorant that will mask any unpleasant odours and there is nothing worse than either too much or too little deodorant. Our Natural Body Deodorant (2 kinds, Earth &

Ocean) have no alcohol, no fragrances, no aluminium and no staining, which is important with white business shirts.

HAIR: 1. Shampoo – always important to use a pH balanced shampoo. The scalp is skin too and shouldn't be treated any differently to our faces, therefore good products are essential to maintain your hair and scalp in the best condition.

2. Conditioner – always important to use a pH balanced conditioner that suits the hair/scalp conditions (oily, dry, normal, etc).

3. Styling Product – I think men groom their hair more than women, especially in the workplace. The best ones to use are water soluble that won't build up in the hair/scalp and cause dry flakiness, which sits on their shoulders/suits. Our four styling products rinse out perfectly with water and have four different hold factors.

APJ 7. How would you educate a man on the importance of antioxidant products in their skincare?

Clare: Whenever you exercise or are physically actively in your work, it's important to realise that although physical activity is good for you, exercise also creates free radicals within the body, including the skin, which over time, and if daily, has the potential to build up and damage the skin's cellular integrity, leading to premature skin ageing.

Using a good natural skincare loaded with powerful known antioxidants will help neutralise this ongoing onslaught of free radical damage. Don't use skincare containing harsh synthetic chemicals such as artificial fragrances or colours as they are a major cause of 90% of all men's skin allergies and problems. Don't use alcohol or aluminiumbased deodorants. These also cause skin irritations with aluminium being strongly associated as a cause of Alzheimer’s disease.

VitaMan's two Body Deodorant sprays are 100% natural, alcohol and aluminium-free.

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APJ 8: How do you comment on the development of male grooming in the past decade?

Clare: It's been a tough and difficult market, as being early 'Pioneers', VitaMan has also had to invest time and money to help promote and grow the overall Male Grooming Market globally along with their own brand. But gradually with more men's magazines and male celebrity endorsements, men are changing their attitudes and perceptions, and today at the very least, most men have embraced at least a basic shaving and skincare daily routine. Pressure from their partners to look good has also swayed men to make more of an effort in their appearance, as well as business expectations require high presentation and grooming in today's competitive world. As more and more men become comfortable buying and using skincare products we are seeing this sector growing, and formal statistics confirm that the demand for male-specific skincare is constantly on the rise globally.

APJ 9: As a global pioneer of male grooming, can you give us any specifics as to how the trends are changing?

Clare: Demographically, the biggest market today is still the Baby Boomers who research shows still dominate global trends. They want to stay feeling and looking young and will pay to do so. Therefore new powerful anti-ageing products to reverse signs of ageing are the current growing trend. Skin surgery/laser procedures will become common. For the younger male market, they will become more individual as we are now seeing with Australian teenagers, who are experimenting with skin products to suit their needs. The forecasts are indicating that in the not so distant future men's skincare sales will equal women's globally and men will be buying as many products and spending the same amount of time getting ready in the morning, which in fact is already being seen in some countries.

APJ 10: What strategies would you advise a modern skincare clinic that is contemplating introducing a malespecific area for treatments?

Clare: If you wish to introduce male-specific services in your business that can become a very successful part of your business, you will need to ensure that you fully understand your proposed target market and their needs, so research is the key. In brief here are some recommendations: ! Décor – ensure that the décor is neutral/unisex – black, gold and tan colours are the best. ! Linen and tables – make sure that linen, gowns and treatment tables are large enough for men ! Menu – this must be solutions focused with professionally written copy that is targeted for men. ! Retail – when it comes to retail many brands treat them like idiots with step 1, 2, 3 – men just need to know the how, when and why – they want the facts not the fluff. ! Treatments – understand what men want in their treatment, our research showed that too often the treatments are not strong enough or nor focused on their concerns. We build flexibility into all our protocols for this reason. ! Prior consultation and aftercare education – this is so important not just for women, but also for men. ! Equipment – new technologies that work on a cellular level such as IPL/Laser, LED or microcurrent are also excellent treatment options as part of your anti-ageing treatment strategies for men.

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For further information VitaMan Global Pty Ltd P: 02 9725 6994 | E: info@vitaman.com.au | www.vitamin.com.au

Skin Care with the unique & exclusive d'vine® complex

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Experience the luxury, see the results!

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INTERNET PROTECTED | CHIRAL | PARABEN FREE | 100% MARK-UP | RRP BELOW $95

Dynamic Skin Solutions P 02 9525 8368 E info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au W www.dynamicskinsolutions.com.au

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productinnovations ㄰

Thinking outside the Box

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Successful marking is often about thinking outside the box and introducing simple, innovative solutions for your clients. Graduations are a common phenomenon at the end of the year so APAN has designed a beautiful Congratulations Gift Voucher to promote your products and services as a special gift to someone who has graduated, won a promotion, or even getting engaged or married. These gift vouchers offer a unique opportunity to make a wonderful gift option to promote to your clients for such occasions.

Purchase 50 for just $40 plus freight, 100 for $75 or 150 for just $110. We also have great Christmas Gift Vouchers, Birthday, Valentine’s Day Vouchers and numerous others.

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Visit www.apanetwork.com and view them or the APAN website under merchandising or phone 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com to place your order.

Scan to see APAN’s complete range of cards for you to order.

SKEYNDOR'S GLOBAL LIFT with NEXT GENERATION ProGEN-in TECHNOLOGY SKEYNDOR POWER C+ the potent anti-oxidant combination

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Perfecting the antioxidant formula, Skeyndor's new POWER C+ marries two super powers of the antioxidant world that work their magic by stopping free radicals damage, inflammation and collagen loss. POWER C+ uses a pure, highly concentrated and stabilised form of Vitamin C for its important role in the metabolism of collagen, and Pomegranate HG Extract known for its colossal Polyphenol content to strengthen the cell membrane, making the skin less prone to damage and moisture loss. Rich in antioxidants and omega fatty acids it helps regenerate cells, reduces the signs of ageing and repairs sun damage. Boosting elasticity, POWER C+ is the solution to clarity and brightness, while it addresses lines, pigmentation and freckling. The results are a smoother and invigorated complexion.

SKEYNDOR POWER C+ is available from VOGUE IMAGE GROUP Ph: 1800 554 545

New scientific breakthrough has unveiled the amazing effects of [ProGEN-in], an exclusive and unique technology, based on antisenescence therapies that achieves a targeted effect to the source of the problem, progerin, a protein that is responsible for DNA-damage signalling and cellular ageing. Skeyndor employs this new generation technology to produce GLOBAL LIFT. Reaching to cell levels and defying the space-time continuum, GLOBAL LIFT improves the skin by 5-6 years with a 90% boost in the firming effect and an 80% enhancement in facial fullness.

ProGEN-in technology addresses ageing in old cells and delays ageing in young ones to significantly reduce the biological age of the skin. In addition, it stimulates collagen production, protects elastin from degrading. Global Lift erases the signs of photo-ageing such as loss of density and firmness through three specific active substances. It utilises an award-wining biomimetic peptide that reduces the effects of enzymes that break down elastin, combating flaccidity in mature skin, while a-glucans and black pepper work in the recticular dermis to support skin integrity. Bogbean extract – a potent new antioxidant – is also included in the formula to further protect cellular ageing.

SKEYNDOR GLOBAL LIFT is available from VOGUE IMAGE GROUP Ph: 1800 554 545.

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APJ 87

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VENUS SWAN

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DISCOVER THE DIFFERENCE The Starter Kit from Jane Iredale Jane Iredale has just released their fabulous Starter Kit containing travelsized versions of Smooth Affair Luminising Primer, POMMIST Hydration Spray, Amazing Base and PurePressed Base Mineral Foundations bundled in a chic travel-size cosmetic case with an extralarge mirror and a Mini Powder Brush. Available in five shades, the Starter Kit makes having healthy, radiant skin easier than you think.

Limited stock of these brand-new Starter Kits will be released for Christmas and will become available for ongoing sales from early 2014.

The Starter Kit would make a great Christmas gift or travel pack for this holiday season. Be quick to secure your order Margifox Distributors

The Venus Swan™ is an all-in-one, full face and body rejuvenation device that has been awarded the 2010 “Nouvelle Esthetique” prize for its original innovative design. The Venus Swan™ is based on (MP)2 Technology, which means it uses an innovative combination of pulsed magnetic field and multi-polar radio frequency (RF). Pulsed Magnetic Field therapy increases FGF-2 production, a growth hormone responsible for the creation of minute blood vessels and the proliferation of dermal fibroblasts.

Simultaneously, Multi-Polar Radio Frequency (RF) increases collagen and elastin synthesis by causing controlled thermal damage in the dermis.

The Venus Swan aims to deliver outstanding results to the face, neck, arms, stomach, thighs and buttocks and is so advanced that two parts of the body can be worked upon at the same time. It effectively reduces cellulite, treats fine lines and wrinkles and stimulates the production of age-defying collagen with just a handful of treatments. Non-invasive and pain-free application makes this a popular device for both beauty therapists and clients alike. Contact: The Global

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Beauty Group on 1300 660 687 www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au

Ph: 1300 850 008.

LightPlex® for lightning-fast results with pigmentation and discolouration

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Bioelements have just released their new LightPlex® MegaWatt Skin Brightener and GigaWatt D a r k S p o t C o r r e c t o r. A breakthrough triple-threat to melanin production Bioelements has pinpointed the design centre of melanin production where tyrosinase is activated within the melanocyte. The triple-blend of skin brighteners in both LightPlex® MegaWatt Skin Brightener and LightPlex® GigaWatt Dark Spot Corrector all work synergistically from different angles to interrupt tyrosinase activation, and prevent the formation of pigmentation. Scientific trials confirmed 98% visible improvement in just two weeks and within four weeks 100% of the candidates confirmed increase in luminosity and skin brightness. These treatments are gentle enough for all skin types and will deliver amazing results with pigmentation and restore vibrancy and luminosity to the skin. Contact Absolute Spa Ph: 1300 262 275.

Bio-Synthethis™ LED machine For non-invasive light-activated rejuvenation treatments, the Bio-Synthethis™ LED device leads the way in advanced technology to treat specific skin conditions such as acne or psoriasis and offer you the capability to undertake a number of anti-ageing facials treatments to promote a healthierlooking, more youthful and revitalised appearance. The system features a user-friendly touch-screen control panel with seven pre-set facial applications, allowing the beauty therapist to easily address specific skin conditions. Intuitive, hands-free application means therapists do not need to be constantly present throughout the treatment process. Contact:

The Global Beauty Group on 1300 660 687 www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au

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APJ 88

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Multi-Active Treatment Oil Multi-Active Treatment Oil is a powerhouse of skin nutrients from Skinstitut formulated to assist with the protection of oxidative stress and cell protection.

Healthy cell membrane is essential to skin integrity and health. Multi-Active Treatment Oil contains a multitude of botanical oils, including Macadamia, Rosehip and Avocado oils plus Coenzyme Q10 for cell energy and Vitamin E for healing and repair. Multi-Active Treatment Oil assists with healthy cell function by strengthening, nourishing and hydrating the skin and is suitable for sensitive, dehydrated, sundamaged and ageing skin. Multi-Active Treatment Oil is available from Skinstitut 02 9460 7559.

JYUNKA Anti-Ageing No Empty Promises

Guaranteed Results Reduced Fine Lines, Wrinkles and Crows feet

M+ & BOTO CAVIAR SIMPLY UNBEATABLE AWESOME, STUNNING RESULTS JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au

Vine Therapy – The seduction of grapes

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Multi-Active Mist Multi-Active Mist is rich in plant extracts to strengthen, hydrate and de-stress the skin. With the combination of Vitamin B3, Co-enzyme Q 10, Liquorice root, Hyaluronic Acid, Green Tea Leaf extract, Ginseng Siberian extract, Rose Geranium Oil and Pomegranate Oil extract, Skinstitut's Multi-active Mist works by neutralising free radicals and reducing inflammation to improve the tone and health of the skin. Suitable for all skin types, especially dehydrated, sundamaged sensitive and ageing skin. Spray on to the face, with eyes closed, once or twice and allow to dry. Use as often as needed. It can also be sprayed over makeup.

Multi-Active Mist is available from Skinstitut Ph: 02 9460 7559.

D'vine products contain highly potent ingredients taken from a varietal of extracts of the most powerful red and white grapes and wines. Red wines are rich in several antioxidants that prevent and protect against disease. They also contain polyphenols, which have a positive impact on the body's vascular system, and stimulate the immune system for antiviral and antibacterial responses. d'vine skin care was created by a physician to fill a void in the skincare industry, offering a comprehensive line of medical-grade vine therapy products. The attractive fragrance from natural extracts of raspberry, blueberry, cranberry, holly oil complement the sophisticated and highly effective product line. D'vine offers an exclusive professional line perfect for medical and aesthetic clinics, day spas, dermatologists and plastic surgeons. d'vine skincare products are loaded with beneficial antioxidants, peptides, polyphenols, resveratrol and other nutrients to restore and replenish the skin.

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Contact Dynamic Skin Solutions M: 0407 709 022

APJ 89

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Multifunctional Protection Plus Daily SPF 50+ For Age-resistant skin with a new daily staple from Alpha-H Featuring the latest in sun-filter technology, a key ingredient in Protection Plus is Pycnogenol – a super antioxidant made from the bark of the French Maritime Pine Bark. Not only does Pycnogenol neutralise free radicals caused by the sun to help protect skin from the stress and damage of sunburn and photo-ageing, it is also used to make skin more age-resistant, brighten the complexion, smooth fine lines and diminish the appearance of brown spots, melasma and age spots. This multi-tasking product also utilises two of nature's own UV absorbers in the form of Pomegranate Oil and Mango Butter. For Protection Plus Daily SPF 50+ contact

ALPHA-H Ph: 1800 659 777.

ACHIEVE COLLAGE STIMULATION WITH THE W>O75 MEDICAL IPL DEVICE The W>O75 is a medical-grade IPL device specifically designed for collagen stimulation. This groundbreaking technology makes lines and wrinkles a thing of the past. The Intense Pulsed Light emitted by the W>O75 leads to a contraction of the current collagen and stimulates the natural fibroblast cells. W>O75 is using the 3rd and latest generation of Intense Pulsed Light te c h no lo gy, 'square pulse', more efficient and safer.

If you are looking for affordable world-leading IPL technology, France Medical is the answer.

E > O 7 5 (permanent hair reduction) and W>O75 are available on rental at $90 a week. For

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information visit www.collagenstimul ation.com.au or call

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Firming Body Therapy with Caffeine and Raspberry Oil Representing a huge step forward in body products, Firming Body Therapy is a dual-purpose treatment that combines the benefits of cosmeceutical ingredients with nature's most potent antioxidants. Natural Caffeine Extract produces an increase in skin hydration by up to 59% in just three hours. It also provides powerful plumping and firming benefits that improves skin elasticity, and helps to reduce the appearance of ageing skin. The synergistic mix of active ingredients also includes Beta-glucans, which have the proven ability to rebuild healthy cell layers and improve moisture retention.

Alpha-H sources Beta-glucans is extracted from mushrooms. Luscious Raspberry Oil adds an injection of antioxidants in the form of Vitamins A and E for ultimate skin health. Added to those prized ingredients is collagenstimulating Glycolic Acid and Shea Butter to hydrate and diffuse the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and stretch marks. Firming Body

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Therapy is available from ALPHA-H Ph: 1800 659 777.

PIGMENATION SOLUTION WITH UNIQUE IPL TECHNOLOGY The P>O75 is a medical grade IPL device specifically designed for pigmentation. It is suitable for skin phototypes I to IV and works on actinic and senil lentigo (caused by sun and wind), melasma (caused by pregnancy) and old ephelides (dark freckles).

There are four different modes: Soft, Standard, Radical and Brilliance, suitable for different skin types and conditions. Results are almost instant with the Radical mode. The "Quick fix" Brilliance mode brightens and tightens the skin for up to 36 hours.

More information visit www.skinpigmentation.com.au or call (07) 3151 1543.

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APJ 90

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SKIN O2 DOCTOR'S FORMULA MULTI VIT

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Skin O2 Multi Vit contains the highest potency of stabilised vitamins A, B, C, E plus CO Q10, green tea and pure rose hip oil in a transdermal delivery system. Cruelty free, dermatologically tested and designed for Australian skin with no nasty chemicals or irritation. Multi Vit is clinically proven to regenerate skin cells and help fight all signs of ageing, redness, scars and pigmentation.

Recommended for daily use, Multi Vit is available in 30ml retail size for essential home care W/S $29.50 or in 500ml salon-size pump W/S $158.

Excellent to further boost the skin after injectables or other professional antiaging treatments such as laser, IPL, skin needling or peels. Call Skin O2 HQ

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on 07 5593 4488 or email sales@skino2.com.au.

HydraFacial Tower for multiple treatment options HydraFacial has released an updated version of their premium HydraFacial Tower model. The HydraFacial Tower can perform the exclusive HydraFacial treatment as well as add on LED and lymphatic drainage handpieces. The Hydrafacial uses a patented process that combines hydraderm exfoliation and cleansing, acid peels, hyaluronic acid infusion and antioxidant skin nutrition, into one powerful application. Clients feel an instant, undeniable difference in their skin with no downtime, aggressive chemicals or mechanical exfoliation required. For more

information call High Tech Laser on 1300 309 233 or visit www.hydrafacial.com.au.

Deka Replay Excellium with enhanced performance

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In a world first for aesthetic laser systems, the new Deka Replay Excellium now features both 20mm Alexandrite and 20mm Nd:YAG spot sizes in the one system. The Replay Excellium also feautures a 3hz repetition rate in the Alexandrite wavelength that allows operators to deliver even faster treatments. The Synchro Replay Excellium bypasses the need for costly cooling consumables with a contact pre-cooling system built into every handpiece and an optional external air cooling system. For more information on the Synchro Replay Excellium call

H i g h Te c h L a s e r o n 1 3 0 0 3 0 9 2 3 3 o r v i s i t www.hightechlaser.com.au.

The Ultimate facelift with Ultherapy® Ultherapy® is the only FDA-approved noninvasive lifting and tightening procedure for the face and neck. It uses micro-focused ultrasound to precisely heat tissue at multiple depths and reaches the same tissue targeted in a face-lift without affecting the surface of the skin. The result is a multidimensional lift that begins at the skin's foundation. In most cases only one treatment is required, with patients reporting high satisfaction with the results of the Ultherapy® procedure. Ultherapy® can be peformed by aesthetic nurses under doctor supervision.

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For information about Ultherapy® call High Tech Laser on 1300 309 233 or visit www.likeyourlook. com.au.

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APJ 91

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decrease inflammation, and may reduce the risk of acne and other skin problems by decreasing insulin-like growth factor (IGF-1) and preventing hyperkeratinisation of sebaceous follicles.

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Nutrients that benefit the skin

By Tina Viney

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Avoiding industrial seed oils rich in omega-6 fatty acids can also help reduce inflammatory skin conditions; however, according to several experts, limiting intake of omega-6 from whole foods like avocados, poultry, pork and nuts is usually not necessary. Following these recommendations and consuming adequate amounts of omega-3 fatty acids can greatly improve many inflammatory skin conditions and may help eliminate stubborn acne.

THE VALUE OF FISH OIL

THE BENEFITS OF BIOTIN

Omega-3 fatty acids are known to be anti-inflammatory, and the relative intake of omega-6 to omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) may be a crucial dietary factor in the regulation of systemic inflammation. Our modern diets tend to be very unbalanced in essential fatty acid intake; the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids in Western diets is commonly at least 10 to 1, compared with ratios of 4 to 1 in Japan and 2 to 1 in hunter-gatherer populations. This high ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids in our modern diet likely plays a role in the prevalence of inflammatory skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis and rosacea.

We often hear of biotin as being a useful nutrient for hair and it is found in several high-quality hair products, but biotin is also good for the skin.

Increasing dietary omega-3 fats is an important step towards healing the skin. High levels of omega-3 fatty acids have been shown to

Consuming foods rich in omega-3 fatty acids may lead to smoother, younger-looking skin with a visible reduction in inflammatory-skin conditions like acne and psoriasis. These fats are especially abundant in cold-water fatty fish such as sardines, salmon, mackerel, tuna, anchovies and black cod, among many others. Eating fish also offers you the additional benefit of vitamin D and selenium – all very important to skin health.

Anti-ageing medicine now recognises the important role that nutrition plays not only on overall health, but also specifically to the appearance of the skin. Acne, rosacea, psoriasis, dry skin and wrinkles are all affected by your diet, and eating the right types of foods is a great strategy for reducing and even eliminating these skin conditions.

While there are numerous nutrients that can benefit the skin, in this article we will look more closely at omega-3 fatty acids, sulphur and biotin and the role they play to the health of the skin.

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Conditions such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis have been shown to be positively affected by supplementation with omega-3s from fish oil, likely due to competitive inhibition of arachidonic acid leading to a reduction in the inflammatory process. Clinical results from omega-3 supplementation include an improvement in overall skin condition as well as a reduction in pruritis, scaling and erythema. Omega-3 fatty acids have also been demonstrated to inhibit inflammation in the skin caused by UV radiation, and may even reduce the risk of skin cancer.

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Biotin is a water-soluble vitamin that acts as an essential cofactor for enzymes that regulate fatty acid metabolism. Proper fat production is critical for the health of the skin, since skin cells are rapidly replaced and are constantly in contact with the external environment, and fatty acids in the skin protect the cells against damage and water loss. When biotin intake is insufficient, fat production is altered, and the skin cells are the first to develop symptoms.

A deficiency of biotin causes hair loss and a characteristic scaly, erythematous (red and inflamed) dermatitis around the mouth and

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APJ 92

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other areas of the face and scalp. In infants, biotin deficiency manifests as “cradle cap”, or scaly dermatitis of the scalp. This condition appears as crusty yellow or white patches on the scalp, behind the ears and around the face. In adults, this condition is known as seborrheic dermatitis and can occur in many different areas of the skin. Biotin deficiency can also be a cause of dandruff for some people.

While true biotin deficiency is rare, consuming adequate amounts of biotin can help prevent problems with dry skin and seborrheic dermatitis. Biotin deficiency in the diet is usually only seen in individuals who are consuming raw egg whites, due to the protein avidin, which binds with biotin and prevents its absorption in the gut.

Therefore, it's not a good idea to eat raw egg whites, and if biotin deficiency is a concern, be sure to consume adequate amounts of biotin-rich foods. The best sources of biotin are egg yolks and liver, and other good sources include swiss chard, romaine lettuce, almonds and walnuts. Including these foods in your diet will prevent biotin deficiency and may help improve the production of fatty acids in the skin, returning moisture to dry skin.

THE POWER OF SULFUR Sulfur, the third most abundant mineral in the human body, is an extremely important dietary compound for both skin health and overall wellness. Yet we rarely hear about sulfur in mainstream nutrition, and many people do not even know which foods provide it. In fact, a large proportion of our population is likely eating a diet deficient in sulfur, which could be causing the initiation and progression of many inflammatory and degenerative diseases. While the benefits of a diet rich in sulfur are numerous, I will focus on the effect consuming adequate sulfur can have on the health of the skin.

Sulfur is necessary for collagen synthesis, which gives the skin its structure and strength. The breakdown of collagen or insufficient production of collagen as we age is one of the major contributors to the development of wrinkles, and dietary sulfur significantly affects the production of collagen in our skin. Animals fed a sulfur-deficient diet produce less collagen than normal, demonstrating how a diet with inadequate sulfur can contribute to a reduction in collagen and subsequently cause an increase in skin wrinkling. Getting enough sulfur in your diet can help maintain collagen production and keep your skin looking firm.

JYUNKA

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No Empty Promises

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Guaranteed Results Reduced Fine Lines, Wrinkles and Crows feet

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Sagging Skin –

GONE

Eye Bags –

GONE

Large Pores –

GONE

Oily Skin –

GONE

Pimples and Acne –

GONE

Firmer, Youthful-Looking Skin – YES Radiance and Glow without Reflectors – YES Stunning, Flawless Beautiful Skin – YES One Serum, One Application.

PERMANENT RESULTS – OH YES

Sulfur is also required for the synthesis of glutathione, one of the most important antioxidants in the body. High levels of glutathione in the body can prevent damage caused by free radicals, which are thought to be the major cause of cellular ageing.

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The free radical theory of ageing suggests that ageing results from accumulation of cellular damage from excess reactive oxygen species that are generated as a consequence of oxidative metabolism. High levels of glutathione in the body can reduce the damage caused by these reactive oxygen species, helping to slow down the visible signs of ageing. Glutathione also regulates the production of prostaglandins, reducing inflammation and possibly affecting symptoms of inflammatory skin conditions. The level of glutathione in the body is greatly impacted by having adequate sulfur, specifically sulfurcontaining amino acids, in the diet.

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These amino acids are most abundant and bioavailable in animal foods such as egg yolks, meat, poultry and fish. Sulfur is also found in plant foods; good sources include garlic, onions, brussels sprouts, asparagus and kale. Fermentation may make this sulfur more bioavailable, so foods like sauerkraut and the Korean Kimchi are excellent sources.

Other fermented crucifers are also good sources of sulfur and an important component of a diet for healthy, youthful skin.

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JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au

APJ 93

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How to avoid the BARGAIN HUNTERS and the New Vogue in BUSINESS-GROWTH STRATEGIES

By Tina Viney From where we are positioned as an industry organisation we have the ability to gain a bird's-eye view of industry activities and identify both the good and the bad.

One observation I can give with conviction is the perils of discounting that has sent more businesses to the wall rather than improve their cash flow. Yet despite that this is a known fact, businesses still continue to fall into this trap in a futile attempt to outperform their competitors.

Why is this so? Perhaps it is because we view discounting as the quick-fix approach to gaining more business, however, what these businesses fail to understand is the specific criteria when bulk discounting actually works and when it doesn't. This article will attempt to shed some light on the dynamics of discounting that are at play and point to the more successful strategies that are currently bringing results.

Let's consider both sides of the coin. Here are some reasons when discounting can be of value: 1. When a supplier has much of their financial revenue tied up in excessive amounts of stock sitting on shelves or in warehouses and they have an urgent need to improve their cash flow 2. When there is a danger that the current stock will become outdated 3. There is an urgent need to move stock to make room for new season's stock, or new and improved stock.

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Let's look at when discounting is detrimental and why: 1. When quality services are offered at slashed prices 2. When salon treatment packages are offered at substantially lower prices Let's consider the connotation for each situation. If a product is discounted it is usually for a quick end-of-season sale. The product still retains its value, so a sale price is an attractive option for purchasers.

If a quality service or treatment is slashed in price there are two considerations by a discerning consumer: 1. Will the treatment be delivered with the same quality products and protocols used as the full-priced version, or will it be delivered with inferior-grade product?

2. If the business can afford to discount the service heavily and still make a profit, was the service overpriced in the first place?

If a client is not concerned about these two questions then they are probably not the kind of client you want to attract – in other words they are opportunistic – just cashing in on a cheap deal and not necessarily concerned with the quality of the service, and possibly not a potential long-term client who would be prepared to pay full price at a later date.

From the business's point of view, will discounting services bring a rush of sale and therefore quick revenue as will moving bulk stock?

Probably not, and if it does, the discount services will probably be delivered at a loss.

Furthermore, repeated discounting over a period of time often leads to people losing trust in your brand, believing that the only reason you are doing this is because consumers are not responding to your services as offering them perceived value because possibly they are not, or that they are overpriced in the first place.

As a viable marketing strategy, discounting services is a dangerous practice, especially if you do not understand the relationship between price, discount and sales, as you will probably be giving away vital profit by reducing your margins so that they are too low.

Interestingly enough, new statistics point to new consumer trends. In a constantly cost-cutting commercial environment many consumers have become too familiar with products and services being thrown at them and are less impressed to take up such offers, having sometimes

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APJ 94

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regretted the experience. The new consumer “magnet” is now value innovation when presenting products and services. Here are some examples of effective strategies to gain new clients.

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IMPROVING CLIENT EXPERIENCE THROUGH VALUE INNOVATIONS ㈵

Never before has there been a need for service businesses to look at ways to enhance the client experience through value innovations.

Value-added offers are more compelling than just a discount. For example let's assume you are promoting a $2200 value package of a series of laser or IPL treatments to your client to make it more exciting you offer them a 10% discount, which would mean a $220 discount to your client.

On the other hand, a value-innovative approach would position the offer in a different way. For a $2200 package you could also offer added value by including $400 worth of your best anti-ageing skincare to support your treatment results rather than discounting. To position this offer you could speak with your supplier and negotiate a better purchasing price, or perhaps they could offer you treatment-products as a special offer. Assuming that you have 100% mark-up on your product the cost to you for this offer to your client would be approximately $200. Meanwhile your client has been introduced to your best skincare and feeling excited about gaining $400 worth of premium products, which perhaps they considered they could not afford to purchase.

You could further offer progressive payment options to make the offer even more appealing. Now consider, how quickly would your client forget the $220 discount compared to how long they would enjoy and appreciate your $400 gift of premium products? Which do you think would be perceived as the greatest value to the client?

Furthermore, when they run out of product they more than likely will repurchase this product, especially if they have experienced great results.

INSPIRE AND MANAGE CLIENTS IN NEW WAYS The term “client experience” first became in vogue a few years ago with the rise in popularity of innovative spa treatments that offered relaxation, ambiance and a sensory experience for the consumer.

However, the current interpretation of “client experience” has been stepped up – it now has a slightly different connotation.

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Salons and clinics now are required to interact with their clients in an entirely different manner to the way they did a few years ago. The key difference is that the contemporary therapist, in order to enhance and create a direct and rewarding “client experience”, will now need to focus not just on enhancing the sensory elements of the “experience”, but also enhance the appreciation of that experience. This is achieved through a personal and strategic interaction with their client that will offer them valuable knowledge and education on why and how the treatment delivered by them will have a point of difference and work for them. This education should be delivered using creative, subtle and innovative strategies, including one-on-one consultation, before and after images, posters, brochures and carefully designed literature with the aim to step and guide the client through strategic information that will allow them to not only enjoy the experience of their treatment, but also enhance their appreciation of what is involved.

To achieve this level of “client experience” the practitioner will need to undergo specific training, while the business will need to design and develop creative and innovative ways as to how these messages will be communicated, so that the end result for the client is a rewarding personal experience.

The aim is to create powerful brand advocates that will deliver wellexecuted strategies to ensure the entire client experience is extraordinary on so many levels.

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DETERMINE TO CHANGE WHAT YOU CAN While you cannot have control over challenges in the economy, and these may be a reality, not everything will affect you unless you focus only on the negative to justify your lack of business performance.

Making excuses isn't going to increase profits – you will need to focus on what you can control, change and improve in such a way that you can beat the system, and this is definitely possible. I have seen businesses that, rather than allow their profits to drop, have increased their service standards and levels and focused on training staff to become motivated, positive, confident employees, which in turn resulted in attracting the right clients and enhancing the perceived client value, while ultimately achieving both client and business growth.

As a business, identifying what you can improve and control gives you possession of the ball, but controlling what you can control can help you win the game. For example, you may not be able to control the financial climate, but you can control your image; the impact and consistency of your visual appearance; your product range and the depth of communication you are offering your clients to appreciate what you have to offer as valuable and a point of difference to other businesses; your staff morale, professionalism and efficiency in improving the client experience; the overall culture of the business that reflects care as well as excellence; your measurement of the vital “health signs” of your business and your expense ratios; and the retail economic/cash flow and planning.

The hallmark of a leading business is their ability to control and constantly improve what they can, putting extra effort in improving their reputation and visibility. They differentiate themselves and prove their worthiness in the industry by constantly evolving through better services, better products and improving their communication with their clients at all levels, so that they are perceived as a positive and valuable engagement their clients wish to remain connected to, because it promises value and unparalleled client experience in the services and care they provide.

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JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au

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Dermal Essence Rediscover Your Skin If ever there was a logo that said it all it would have to be DERMAL ESSENCE “Rediscover Your Skin” – simple and to the point.

Owner Patricia Boehler is the quiet achiever that has managed to cut out her niche as a professional aesthetician who specialises in skin. Her practice is situated in the remote region of Darwin in the Northern Territory where hot weather is the norm all year round, with temperatures that pretty much sit on 30-33 degrees for most of the year. Coming from a nursing background, Patricia instantly exhibits an honest and caring nature, and the transition from nursing to aesthetics is quiet evident when you speak with her. While quietly spoken, she also exhibits a resolute commitment to constantly grow and stay current in her knowledge to ensure her practice delivers not only the wisdom of the past, but also the latest advances that are defining our ever-evolving industry.

As a member of APAN we are delighted to share some of her views and her approach to her profession. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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APJ 1: Patricia, tell us when did you start your salon Dermal Essence and what motivated you to set up your own business in Darwin?

Patricia: I was motivated to go into business when the opportunity presented to purchase a rundown business in 2002. I was not happy in my then nursing position and that is why I considered changing careers. I purchased the business and changed the name and proceeded to learn all about being a business owner. The first five

years were not easy and I tried to identify how best I could express myself professionally and service my clients. As this became clearer for me, I realised the direction I should be heading and channelled all my energy to start growing my business.

APJ 2: Tell us about the location of your business and who is your target market?

Patricia: The location of my business is in the centre of the city next to a hotel and entertainment complex. My target market is professional workers and business owners and people attending Darwin on holidays or conferences. All my clients have in common the desire to achieve better skin and to be advised not only how to achieve it, but how also to maintain it, and for this reason I have developed an ongoing professional relationship with them.

APJ 3: What products do you use and which treatment have given you the best results and why?

Patricia: I use the Dr Spiller and Alex Cosmetic products to deliver professional skincare treatments and maintenance homecare as I have found that this product offers me excellent results in skin improvement due to its biomemetic concept. My best results are when I deliver a prescriptive treatment such as the Herbal Aktiv Peel and maintain the client on regular Dr Spiller maintenance treatments and homecare. It is imperative that the client follows a homecare routine to achieve really good results and this requires the therapist to build a good relationship with the client. This is both satisfying for me as a professional as well as for the client, who is able to achieve their skincare goals.

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APJ 96

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APJ 4: Tell us a little about what it's like to work in a remote region such as Darwin and how do you cope with finding staff who have the level of qualification and expertise that you need?

Patricia: Working in a remote region such as Darwin

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is quiet isolated and requires careful planning to attend conferences and workshops for training interstate. My staff are usually transient and this requires sourcing and building a good relationship with likeminded people. As my salon is small we work very intimately together to achieve a quality service to our clients. staff training and staff development is ongoing as I pass on what I learn to them on a regular basis so that we can work harmoniously as a professional team. I am slowly building a reputation of a Signature Facial Salon and this attracts the niche clientele who are seeking quality results. Training is a necessity and always ongoing. I set up a training plan as soon as appropriate and this alone encourages my staff to excel.

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APJ 5: How do you advance your knowledge and stay in touch with industry developments?

Patricia: To stay ahead of industry changes and regulations my membership to the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) is a great support for this as well as the information I gain from their conference programs. I usually attend two Omniderm Interstate Workshops per year. If any advanced training comes to Darwin I attend to refresh and support their consideration for thinking of Darwin. It is also a good way to network with other salons in Darwin.

APJ 6: You recently attended APAN's Australian Aesthetics Conference in Adelaide; what was the most useful information and experience you took away from that experience?

Patricia: The most useful information I took from this conference

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Patricia: The major changes I have witnessed over the time I have been in the industry are the new trend of professional Aesthetics branching away from the common beauty salon concept as the onestop-shop that delivers everything. I have also witnessed the trend for salons to be recognised as specialists in their expertise, whether this is in waxing, laser or specialists in skin treatments. The Aesthetics practitioner is becoming more knowledgeable and educated in her field to deliver better outcomes for people sourcing youthful antiaging treatments. This recognition allows her to build a reputation for which consumers will wish to seek her knowledge.

APJ 8: What does your membership to APAN mean to you and how have you benefited from this association?

Patricia: My membership with APAN is very important as it shows my credibility as a professional to my clients and peers who identify me as a committed professional. The greatest benefits are the networking with other professionals and help with insurance, workplace relations and marketing expert advice.

Dermal Essence is located at Shop 1, Double Tree Hilton Esplanade, 93 Mitchell St, Darwin, NT, 0800.

Phone: (08) 8981 7425 | www.dermalessence.com.au

was learning where the beauty industry is heading and gaining the global perspective and identifying what is ahead and where I will best fit in. I also appreciated seeing all the new innovations and treatments offered by the product suppliers who support this wonderful event.

Briefing on the new up-todate laws with Fair Work presented by Michael Bishop f r om P o in to n P artn ers Lawyers was also very useful and very important for me to understand. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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APJ 7: You have been in the aesthetics industry for over 38 years. What are some of the major changes you have witnessed over this time?

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APJ 97

businesstool ㄰

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Mobile Marketing is the most powerful media ever invented – New York Times

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Smartphone Apps for Your Business

By Mark D Viney With an ever-increasing number of people using Smart Phones the new essential business tool is your own mobile app. APAN has been aware of this trend for a while now and have developed an Strategic Alliance Partnership with Kharis Enterprises, who are professional Smart Phone Apps developers. They have had a close association with the Aesthetic and Beauty Industry for over 20 years and so are perfectly placed to help design your business app. As a Strategic Alliance Partner, Kharis will offer APAN members a discount. In this article Mark Viney from Kharis Enterprises will discuss important elements you need in your APP. In the ever-changing world around us businesses need to keep abreast of the key changes in ways their clients want to interact with them, and potential clients find them. If you are still thinking that the Yellow Pages is enough you are living in the past century.

With Smart Phones now dominating the mobile market in Australia, they have become the device of choice to get on the Internet and find information about anything. If they are looking for you and your business services, will they find you?

A decade ago, as a business you needed a website for people to find you online. Nowadays you need not only a web address (your website), but also an APP that allows people to interact with you and find your business on their mobile device.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A WEBSITE AND APP ㄰ 㤵 㜵

As a business you need a web address and a website attached. This is your “web ID and location”. This is an established place on the web where you can be found. This has been true for at least the past 10 years. However, now it is also very important that your website can auto format itself to different screen sizes, so it can be viewed easily on mobile devices. This type of a website is called a “Relative” website. It is easy to check if your website has this ability by resizing your browser smaller on your screen and seeing if your website automatically resizes for the smaller size.

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In the marketplace over the past few years some people have been passing off a mobile version of a business’ website as a APP. This is

not an APP and if they design one for you, it will not be able to have it hosted in the Apple APP Store.

An APP is a small program that runs on a mobile device and allows the user to seamlessly interact with all the components of the mobile device, such as the GPS, phone, Internet and camera to help provide information and communication on the subject of the APP. Put simply, your APP should use everything the Smart Phone has to allow the user to interact with you and your business.

YOUR OWN BUSINESS SMART PHONE APP So you need an APP. But what sort of things should my business APP have in it? Let’s look at some of the features an APP can supply.

SOME FEATURES AN APP CAN SUPPLY ㄰

PUSH NOTIFICATION Connect with customers directly through your mobile APP with “PUSH” Notifications messages that go directly to their phone. This allows intimate one-to-one communication with your client. You send this out from the BackOffice of the APP to all clients who have your APP on their device. The statistics tell us that 97% of “PUSH” Notifications are read compared to only 4% of emails.

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You can use the “PUSH” Notifications to keep your customers up to

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APJ 98

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date with current events and make them aware of new offerings.

“PUSH” Notifications can be used to broadcast specials, discounts, reminders, coupons, etc.

You can implement the QR code program right into your mobile business APP. This allows you to use QR Code Coupons in your physical business to advertise specials on services and products.

Let’s look at a typical situation in a salon or clinic. You have staff rostered on to work, but when you come in you see that there are two appointment slots in the afternoon that are empty. Or a client rings up in the morning and cancels their appointment, leaving a gap of an hour and a half. What can you do? Simple! Send a “PUSH” Notification out advising clients that if they book into that slot then you will give them a discount or an extra (whatever you policy is).

Just print out a QR Code with the information you want to say and put it up in your salon. They only need to be 2-3 cm in size and printed black. Have a number of them around your waiting area. Have some offering services deals and some product deals.

The more varied lifestyle your clients have and the more you have who have downloaded your business APP, the shorter the time between the “PUSH” Notification and the event. The other good news is that if they want to respond to it, it is a One Tap Calling from the APP. Alternatively, you could use “PUSH” Notification to advertise specials with your services and products.

Let your clients have fun walking around and scanning them to see what offers you are making this week, month, etc. You will be surprised how this will encourage a much greater uptake of these offers.

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PLATFORM FOR PROOF What is a platform for “PROOF”? It is a place where very important information about your business is located. This can be in the form of testimonials, educational videos, web links, etc. If you haven’t realised it yet, a lot of your clients are going to do their own research into your treatments and products. They will listen to what you say and then go away and do their own research.

This is a simple way to keep your customers engaged with you and your business. Unlike SMS this is a free service and will go to all the Smart Phones who have you APP installed (unless they have “opted out”). The key here is to make sure what you “PUSH” is appealing to your clients so they do not “opt out”.

So using your business APP you provide the platform for “PROOF”.

You provide all the information their research requires in one easy to reach place... your APP.

PRODUCT INFORMATION

NEW CLIENTS INFORMED ABOUT YOU

You can easily upload product item and detail information into your APP, letting your client view your offerings on their Smart Phone at their leisure. This can include short video clips about a particular product as well as testimonials and detailed information. You can also link from your business APP directly to your supplier’s website to access some of these things.

With your business APP as a free APP in the APPS Store, you have the potential to attract new clients to your business. Your APP provides instant access to all details about your business – right on their Smart phone 24/7.

This allows you to focus on different products and services within your business and target market them. It is a good way to introduce new services and products or increase the uptake of certain existing services. The more informed your clients are about a service or product, the more likely they will want to purchase them.

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They can view information about you, read testimonials and see your service menu and product list. Your APP will also give new clients turn by turn GPS directions to your business location.

There are tons more features to help you connect with your clients and grow your business. Provide a constant Branding – Right on your client’s Mobile Device – and they are on them 23 hours per day! All available on Android™, iPhone® and iPad® devices.

LOYALTY PROGRAM THROUGH GPS COUPONS

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We all know that Loyalty Programs work. Do you have one?

I have in my wallet a coffee card for all the different coffee shops I go to (including McDonald’s). Why? Because I like the rewards.

BUSINESS MOBILE APP BACK-OFFICE CONTROL FEATURES:

One benefit Smart Phones have is they have a built-in GPS that can be utilised by any APP. Therefore, in your business APP, you can implement the GPS through “GPS Coupons”.

Once your business APP has been launched you have complete control of it through a simple web-based content-management system. You can add and edit content easily and instantly – if you can email you can manage your mobile APP. There is an easy-to-use customer contact function. You log in, type and send.

The “GPS Coupon” is setup by you on your APP and basically it is a coupon that is locked until the Smart Phone has visited your shop “x” number of times. Every time your client comes into your shop the GPS on their phone “knows” and notifies your APP and your APP ticks a visit off the coupon. When the desired number of visits has been achieved, the coupon is unlocked. This GPS “check-in” system automates and so simplifies the process of coupon visit cards.

USING QR CODE COUPONS Smart Phones can scan a special type of digital information barcode called a QR Code. You may have seen them around. They are like the one shown right. This QR Code can be read by the Smart Phone and so link you to the Internet or some other information integrated in the QR Code.

You will also have a complete Analytics Dashboard to track downloads daily, weekly, monthly and yearly.

If you don’t have the time or the desire to keep your APP updated Kharis can also offer you a “Done For You Service” – They will manage the APP for you.

SPECIAL OFFER $500 discount for first 5 APAN Members who order their Business APP from Kharis Enterprises.

To discuss your Business App or for further information contact Kharis Enterprises on Mobile: 0412 177 423 or Email: APPs@kharis.com

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APJ 99

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Mobile Marketing is themost powerful media ever invented – New York Times

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STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD Custom Built Smartphone Apps

HAVE YOUR OWN MOBILE APP BUILT! APAN Strategic Alliance Partner Kharis Enterprises are professional Smart Phone Apps developers, with over 20 years’ association with the Aesthetic and Beauty Industry.

SOME OF THE FEATURES AN APP CAN SUPPLY PUSH NOTIFICATION – Connect with customers for free. Use “PUSH” Notification to get clients to fill empty treatment slots.

PRODUCT INFORMATION – Include video clips, testimonials and detailed information. The more information your clients are receiving from you the more likely they will want to purchase your products.

LOYALTY PROGRAM THROUGH GPS COUPONS – Use the Smart Phone built-in GPS to implement “GPS Coupons”.

USING QR CODE COUPONS – Smart Phones scan a digital barcode called a QR Code (see ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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at top). This QR Code is read by the Smart Phone and contains information about anything you want.

SPECIAL OFFER $500 discount for the first 5 APAN Members who order their Business APP from Kharis Enterprises.

To discuss your Business App or for further information contact Kharis Enterprises M: 0412 177 423 | E: apps@kharis.com

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TRAIN IN COSMETIC TATTOO

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profession with passion and holds nothing back when teaching you both the artistry and protocols of this modality. Her incredible personality and enthusiasm wore off on me. She is a true mentor who gives everything to her students, ensuring they gain the very best from their training and become true experts in their profession.

Cosmetic Tattooing is a passion for Faye Rielly. As the principal of the Australian Institute of Permanent Makeup she is renowned for her training standards. Constantly investing in her own knowledge she is a role model to all her students, who liberally praise her without reservation.

As a master cosmetic tattooist she is constantly evolving new techniques, while developing her own signature style of training that meets and exceeds industry standards.

HERE IS WHAT SOME OF HER STUDENTS HAVE TO SAY ABOUT HER: Regardless as to how confident you may feel at the end of your training, difficult situations will arise when you are actively performing these procedures, as everyone is very different and you are tattooing colour into the skin of a live human being. It therefore goes without saying that questions and concerns will arise that you may have not encountered before and you will need the advice and recommendation of an expert. With Faye's extensive training and experience I have peace of mind that I can turn to her for advice through the availability of a “Helpline”. This service is available for free to every graduate. I have found this incredibly beneficial as I can pick up the phone and ask for advice at any time I need it, even if my client is in the next room. This is like a safety net when I am faced with a challenge. Kerry Usher, Queensland I chose to train in Cosmetic Tattooing with Faye Rielly because I felt she was well rounded as a trainer and a person. She loves her

The training procedure was comprehensive, comfortable and was delivered in a confident, friendly manner. The one-on-one training allowed the learning to be paced correctly and tailored to my individual needs and level of comprehension. I really don't believe that this modality can be taught in any other way. It is such a specialised and detailed procedure and it truly requires the undivided attention of your trainer at all times, to ensure that you gain the maximum from your training.

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I did quite a bit of research before choosing Faye Rielly as my trainer and I am so glad I did. My initial training with her was nine years ago and I still ask her questions and seek her professional advice. As a result of her incredible support I have established a strong bond with Faye, she has mentored me and encouraged me to become the very best that I can be. This enthusiasm and encouragement has led me to win several awards, which I was awarded by the Australian Institute of Permanent Makeup. Faye is an incredible trainer that will touch your life in so many ways. Kate Sullivan, Darwin, NT

If you are seeking Government Approved Qualifications and the highest standard of training excellence to launch a new career in Cosmetic Tattoo or grow your existing reputation, AIPM offers you their guarantee to meet and exceed your highest expectations. Phone and speak to Faye Reilly 07 5500 4982.

Learn From The Expert With An

IMPECCABLE REPUTATION Train as a COSMETIC TATTOO practitioner and enjoy the benefits that this profession brings:

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High income potential Opportunities to work with medical practitioners Expand your treatment services Become a specialist contractor You will receive personalised one-on-one training with a highly qualified and experienced industry leading expert.

We offer excellence in training and GOVERNMENT APPROVED QUALIFICATIONS

Certified and refresher courses in: ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Eyebrow, eyeliner extension, upper and lower eyeliner, eyelash enhancement, full lip, lip-line and lip-blend, beauty spot and blush, ADVANCED PARAMEDICAL: Scar camouflage, vitiligo re-pigmentation, nipple areola Faye Rielly — Principal creation, nipple areola re-pigmentation, colour correction, electronic colour removal, feature reconstruction, hair imitation, scar relaxation, multitrepannic collage induction, non-laser tattoo removal (face and body)

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Sole Authorised Australasian Mei-cha Educator & Distributor MEI-CHA: A WORLD PIONEER IN COSMETIC TATTOO INNOVATIONS & SAFETY

Phone: (07) 5500 4973 | Fax: (07) 5500 4982 | Email: abeautyconcepts@bigpond.com | www.farren.com.au

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perform medical-grade peels, so from the beginning I moved into corrective procedures, and to this day I still work with a dermatologist.

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APJ 2: How many years have you been in the industry and how has the industry changed over the years?

Cristina: I originally trained in 1974 when the industry in Australia

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was in its infancy and training revolved around basic grooming treatments, as I have already stated, which were pleasant, relaxing and offered a level of skin protection and maintenance. There was only simple equipment in use in those days, high frequency and iontophoresis were the most advanced ones and of course, electrolysis. Today, the industry has advanced so much with some amazing technologies that offer us powerful tools at our disposal.

Skincare is now formulated with more advanced delivery systems, treatment-strength antioxidants and sophisticated active ingredients that can actually “treat” the skin and achieve real results.

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APJ 3: What aspect of our work have you decided to specialise in and why did you choose this area?

Cristina: I particularly enjoy acne treatments and this is one of my

member profile

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areas that I specialise in. I guess what I enjoy the most is to achieve a good result and not only help improve one's skin, but also see their level of confidence rise. Acne can be a very debilitating condition that can affect the self-esteem of the individual. Achieving results has its challenges because I have to investigate and assess the cause of the acne – is it hereditary, is it hormonal? I then have to design a treatment plan and determine the choice of treatments – topical vitamin A, ablative therapy, etc and establish a course of action. I deal with both adolescent, as well as adult acne and achieving results is very gratifying. It is wonderful to see my clients so appreciative and grateful with results that I can achieve for them, which is so rewarding.

As a community of practice APAN doesn't take its members for granted. As a gesture of appreciation we feature a member in every issue of APJ. Our members are diverse and varied, from beauty and aesthetic therapist to nurses, dermal therapists, massage therapists, suppliers, business owners, as well as cosmetic physicians and plastic surgeons. Each individual is valuable and precious to us and we believe they bring their own commitment, passion and expertise to define a dynamic and constantly changing profession known as aesthetics, dermal therapies, natural and cosmetic medicine.

APJ 4: Name your favourite product and tell us why you love it?

Cristina: I love Betagel by Dane. This is a beta glucan-based product

In this issue we present to you Cristina Fiorenza. Cristina is the owner of Bondi Beauty Aesthetics in Sydney. For nearly four decades she has achieved an illustrious career in aesthetics. From the beginning Cristina had an interest in the more challenging skin problems and pursued education and training that set her ahead of the industry standard in her early days in the profession. It was a pleasure to interview her and give her the opportunity to share some of her views and experiences.

APJ 5: What are the reasons you believe contribute to your clients being loyal to you?

Cristina: I believe the number one attribute they appreciate is that I

APJ 1: Cristina, tell us how your journey into aesthetics began and why you decided to pursue this career path?

Cristina: Interestingly enough I was pregnant when I decided to pursue a career in beauty therapy.

In those days training predominantly covered basic modalities such as waxing, manicures, pedicures and basic facial procedures that were more for maintenance purposes. However, from the very beginning I had an interest in the corrective treatments and in those days this included electrolysis, so I also trained in this modality. I was very fortunate in that I applied and worked with a leading dermatologist where I performed electrolysis, sebaceous gland ablation – a revolutionary new treatment then for acne and problematic skin. Additionally, I performed diathermy for the removal of broken capillaries and was also further trained to

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that is excellent in stimulating the skin's immunity and is wonderful with burns and great for healing any form of trauma. My other favourite product is Osmosis – this is a catalyst product with zinc finger technology. It repairs DNA damage and helps repair and rebuild collagen healing in the skin.

am always honest and truthful with them in terms of what can be achieved and what the expectations can be. They are also very appreciative that I am always learning and staying current with new developments. They know that I invest in my knowledge and am able to offer them the latest and most advanced treatments to address their concerns.

APJ 6: What advice would you give a new therapist wanting to enter the industry?

Cristina: Identify your passion and never stop learning. Be a good listener with your clients. Always research for what is best for them and stay ahead in your professional knowledge, that way your clients will remain loyal to you as they will appreciate that you are up-to-date with your services, and don't forget to be always honest and truthful in your communication with them.

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You can contact Cristina Fiorenza at Bondi Beauty Aesthetics Ph: 02 9300 9922

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We have been feeling exceptionally generous in this issue of APJ so we decided to profile two different women as part of our Member Profile feature. From the feedback we receive, many of you love to read about other members and how they enjoy their profession. It is wonderful to see such diversity in terms of specialisation and professional focus and we are delighted to feature below a very talented lady in so many ways.

She is an out-of-the-box therapist who has combined various interesting modalities that best express her and for which she has many very grateful patients and clients.

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Trisha Vanden Brink is a very unique individual with an equally unique professional profile that we trust will inspire you and motivate you to pursue your own professional path with the same passion and commitment that she brings to her profession. Trisha is the owner of Intelligent Beauty, Body and Health, a home-based business that she runs from her country property in the small town of Milora, Queensland.

We are delighted to introduce Trisha to you:

APJ 1. Trisha, step us through your professional journey to where you are today.

Trisha: I am originally from England and entered this profession later in my life. I was travelling and met my husband in Canada and in 1972 we moved to Australia and got involved with farming. I decided to complete a Diploma in Beauty Therapy and found myself gravitating to massage, so I decided to also complete a Diploma in Remedial Massage. I then became very ill and tried different approaches to deal with my health concerns, which left me with very low energy levels.

Through my search for solutions to my health issues I discovered a wonderful herbalist who worked with me and eventually restored my health to the point that I now have more energy than I have ever had in my life. I was so impressed with this experience that I decided to further my education by undertaking and completing an Advanced Diploma in Naturopathy and Western Herbal Medicine and Nutrition.

This was very beneficial to my practice, as living in a small to medium country town, having several modalities in my services was very useful. I love working with the human body and my aim is to help my patients and client achieve a pain-free life that is full of energy. My modalities bring relief to various conditions, including sciatic pain, painful joins, neck, head and shoulder pains. My passion is to improve health and quality of life by restoring balance in the body's systems through a holistic approach and the use of natural, non-invasive modalities. For skincare I use a lovely organic product called Organic Spa. It is a family owned company and I get wonderful results with this range, which I use in the beauty part of the business.

APJ 2: What is the most rewarding aspect of your work and can you give us an example of a treatment outcome that inspired you to be so committed to your work?

Trisha: I love to see people's lives being restored when I can achieve substantial pain relief or pain elimination. It is wonderful to help people improve their energy level and regain their self-esteem. It's so rewarding to assist my patients to experience improved health and wellbeing. I remember one gentleman who had just lost his wife to cancer and was suffering with pain in his body. After treating him he came back after one week and told me that I had changed his life. Seeing a patient who has achieved pain relief and is able to smile again is so rewarding. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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APJ 3: What is your personal philosophy and why did you chose to be involved in this profession?

Trisha: I believe that my chosen modalities that allow me to work on the body to achieve health and balance are so important to me because they reflecting the essence of who I am and I believe they are the path I need to take in life.

APJ 4: How do you relax and what are your passions in life?

Trisha: I love being close to nature. We have a beautiful home with great views and I take a lot of pleasure in enjoying my surroundings and the wonderful views of nature. I love organic gardening and I also have a magnificent rose garden. Picking

member profile a bunch of beautiful roses to give as a gift or to enjoy is such a pleasure. My other passions are cooking, horse riding and enjoying my seven wonderful grandchildren.

APJ 5: How do your services help improve your clients' quality of life and what modalities do you integrate in your services?

Trisha: Through my training I am able to assist my patients with the various modalities that allow me to address issues on nutrition, lifestyle changes, diet and my various massage techniques. For example I also specialise in foot-joint mobilisation. This is a highly effective short treatment that is performed twice a week for approximately eight weeks. It is wonderful in relieving painful feet, which is such a common condition as one progresses in age. I also use herbal tinctures for some of my remedies, which offer well-established credible results. I also assist in weight-loss strategies and incorporate effective body wraps. In terms of skincare, I achieve great results with the Organic Spa products.

APJ 6: How important is empathy to your clients' well being and how much emphasis do you place on that attribute?

Trisha: I love my clients – they are very important to me, and it is also important that I comprehend their needs and work effectively toward the best possible options that will offer them relief. I am careful not to get stuck with sympathy, which just identifies with their pain. Empathy also identifies with their pain, but takes responsibility to move to a solution. I am there to enhance their lives.

APJ 7: What does membership to APAN mean to you and how has it benefited you?

Trisha: I find that my relationship with APAN is so important in offering me inspiration and support. I recognise the lengths to which you go to and the energy you dedicate to assisting and supporting the members and the industry in so many ways. I also recongise that this organisation functions from the right motive of commitment and care for the success of others, this inspires me and I am grateful for it.

Trisha Vanden Brink, Intelligent Beauty, Body and Health, Milora, Queensland Ph: 07 5463 5917

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BUSINESS NEWS

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

WOMEN WITH FLEXIBLE WORK ARRANGEMENTS ARE MORE PRODUCTIVE: STUDY A new report backs what many women working flexibly and part-time already know: that they waste less time at work than their full-time colleagues – just 11.1% compared to the 14.5% of work hours wasted by the general population.

And getting more out of these productive women could save Australia at least $1.4 billion in wasted wages, according to the EY and Chief Executive Women’s Report.

Based on a range of different studies, including figures obtained from the November 2012 EY Productivity Pulse and the Australian Bureau of Statistics, the report identifies what low female workforce participation is costing the economy and what can be done to help.

It finds that with 42.2% of women in the workforce working part-time compared to just 13.5% of men, a significant productivity boost is being achieved, with those flexible workers found to be wasting less time than their full-time counterparts.

But too few organisations are recognising this, according to the report authors.

"Over the past decade, while there have been some gains in female workforce participation rates, a lot more needs to be done to ensure the waste doesn't continue," EY advisory partner Amy Poynton said in a statement with the report.

"When you consider that female workforce participation has only increased by 4% over the past decade to 65%, while male participation is currently at 79%, and you look at that in the context of the return of investment in educating women and the potential shortfall of retirement savings for women, it's quite an alarming picture.”

The report also identifies a lack of sufficient superannuation for women – finding 38% of women have no superannuation at all – and puts an $8 billion figure on the investment in education that's being wasted by women not transitioning to full-time employment.

This article first appeared on Women's Agenda.

REPORT WARNS MARKETERS NEED “TOTAL SHIFT” IN STRATEGY FOR MOBILE-BASED ADVERTISING

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A new report into mobile trends for 2013 urges marketers to focus on mobile advertising as a strategic priority, as people's use of handheld devices for searching and purchasing continues to increase.

For start-ups considering app development, the report indicates developing an Android app first would be a better investment: "Android will remain the indisputable smartphone OS leader, with Apple a distant (but premium) second.”

The report argues the inevitability of mobile advertising will cause companies to increasingly implement multi-year strategies as they explore and transition to mobile-based marketing.

The report, by global consulting company Forrester, finds mobile advertising is on the rise, but requires companies to make a "total shift in their marketing approach".

Similar to the trends announced by Google recently, rich media ads are doing well and likely to increase in traction. The report focuses on increasing mobile spend in marketing budgets, and emerging roles such as "mobile marketing manager".

The report found the ever-available technology offers technical challenges and exciting new opportunities. Online pre-purchase research is no longer limited to at-home browsing. This means marketers and start-up operators are better placed to incite impulse purchases with their advertising.

For SMEs, it's a good reminder on the importance of mobile marketing as an increasingly critical marketing tool.

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If you would like assistance in this regard contact Mark Viney at APAN on 0412 177 423 or email: apj@apanetwork.com

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NEW OPTIMISM FOR SMALL BUSINESSES IN THE LAST QUARTER OF 2013

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Small business confidence took a dive prior to the September federal election, however, economic optimism is dramatically up for the year ahead, new research from Sensis finds.

The latest Sensis Business Index surveyed 1800 SMEs across regional and metropolitan Australia, and covers the period from May to July this year, as well as forecasts to July 2014. In the quarter, 43% of SMEs felt the economy was slowing, while only 10% felt that it was growing.

The net balance of -33% was down from net -29% in the previous quarter, and the lowest since August 2011 when economic perceptions hit -35%, however, SMEs think the economy is looking up for the year ahead. They were optimistic about Australia's economic growth, with the strongest level of optimism since the Sensis August 2010 survey.

The States with the most optimism about the future economy were Queensland and South Australia, while the ACT and Western Australia were the least optimistic.

While SME owners were confident about future economic growth, they were less confident about their personal business prospects, with overall confidence falling from 22% to 17%. Small businesses in NSW and Victoria had the biggest drop in confidence, with NSW at 12%, down from 28%, and Victoria at 14%, down from 21% in the previous quarter. Tasmania was most confident about personal business growth, at 27%, followed by Western Australia and the Northern Territory, both at 26%.

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Key concerns noted by SMEs included a shortage of work or sales, 25%, the economic climate, 19%, and cashflow at 14%. The survey found that exports improved in the quarter, with 12% reporting to be exporting, up 2% on the previous quarter. The survey showed a climate where SMEs were “definitely ready for growth”. There are positive signs, such as SMEs getting easier access to finance, and an increase in companies that export and the amount that they were exporting.

Reasons for a slip in confidence during the quarter reflected a decrease in sales and profitability, with consumers tightening their spending. Small and medium businesses are hoping to see increased spending in their businesses in the months ahead, and if this occurs, we should start to see real lifts in confidence and sentiment from the sector.

In the Aesthetics industry APAN has reported a rise in business optimism, with many salons positioning themselves with new enthusiasm for their end of year promotions, and many planning for the launch of new innovations in their business offerings in 2014.

There is also a rise in the use of technology in businesses that is positioning them with greater potential for growth. will likely be seen by someone, and editing out mistakes will only make a small problem even worse.

“Companies run into this problem all the time. Managing Facebook pages is a nightmare, and I don't envy businesses that have to constantly monitor every single comment to make sure everything adheres to terms and conditions. Comments are a tricky one, anyway, and fan pages are usually troves of irrelevant and offensive material.

It's the nature of keeping a popular bulletin board alive that you need to throw out the waste along the way,” Stafford said.

YOU CAN EDIT FACEBOOK POSTS NOW – BUT YOU SHOULDN'T

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“I've done it, you've done it, probably every person who has a social media profile has done it – publishing a post with a mistake”, says social media expert Patrick Stafford. “It's a pet peeve of mine, but small grammatical mistakes bug the heck out of me. So when I've posted a Facebook status update with a rogue apostrophe or a missing letter, I get really annoyed,” he continues.

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Until recently, there has been no way to edit status updates in Facebook. You could only edit comments, and even that was a relatively new idea. In the past few days the social network has been rolling out an update so any status can now be changed after the post is made.

The Internet has created this strange atmosphere around the concept of editing. The rapid nature of the Internet means anything you put online

But consider what the changes mean for you and your own Facebook page. Even though the ability to edit your post is there, does it mean you really should? Even for innocent mistakes?

When you post something on your Facebook page, someone is going to see it. It doesn't matter who it is – if you have a substantial audience then someone is going to see the first update. If they see an update to that post, they're probably going to take a screenshot of the original, if they can, for evidence.

(If you don't think this is true, check out virtually any message board when a scandal like this comes up. Someone, somewhere, has screenshots.) Soon, things can spiral out of control. An innocent change may have people asking, “Why did you change that post?

What are you hiding?” It seems out of the blue, but it can happen.

“This is a small change. You probably didn't even notice it. But just be warned: Just because Facebook gives you the ability to edit your posts, doesn't mean you should. In fact, you're probably better off never touching the “edit” button at all,” Stafford concludes.

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ONLINE SHOPPERS CLICKED-OFF BY BAD SERVICE, RESEARCH REVEALS

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create relationships with customers and create an experience that enhances the shopping.

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This is not a new concept. Great retailers have been practising it for decades. It's just a matter of making sure your web presence is as rich as your physical business premises.

What this indicates is that shoppers now have choices and have come to expect excellence in service or otherwise they will move on.

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Efficient and timely customer and client service is not just confined to face-to-face service providers. New research also reveals the importance of customer service through businesses on-line presence.

Australian online businesses need to start capturing shoppers' attention more quickly, with a new piece of research showing over one-third of local buyers abandon a website because they have difficulty getting help online.

The results speak in favour of those businesses that have already started using online customer service features, such as live chat.

The research, conducted by marketing group Loudhouse on behalf of LivePerson, a provider of customer management software, also found more than half of Australians will abandon a site if they don't receive help in their expected timeframe.

The research found 87% of shoppers said they needed some form of help – meaning the vast majority of consumers are just a few seconds away from leaving any retail site at any time. The research confirmed that Australians are more likely to abandon a website if they don't get help than any other country in the company's global survey.

The survey found Australian shoppers are less likely to be satisfied with service they receive both in-store and online, compared with other markets.

This is possibly due to Australians' need for speed – 25% of respondents expect help immediately when requested.

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The main reasons for abandoning a purchase include unexpected costs at 69%, lack of information at 59%, navigation difficulties at 52%, and not being able to find answers to questions at 44%. Difficulty in getting help on a website was cited by 36% as their main reason for abandonment.

But the most practical findings lay in questions regarding real-time help. Out of the 1000 respondents, 79% said they prioritise getting their issue resolved quickly, and 55% want that done in a single interaction – 62% want a problem resolved within a five-minute timeframe, and 54% would give up immediately or only seek help once.

This is not simply about making a one-time purchase. You need to

THE ATO WILL BEGIN CRACKING DOWN ON UNPAID SUPER From October 2013 the Australian Tax Office commenced its first notices to small business about unpaid superannuation obligations, which from July 2012 have made company directors personally liable for any unpaid superannuation owed to their current or former employees.

The notices, which are similar to those that are currently sent out for outstanding Pay As You Go tax, are the first time the ATO will begin enforcing the new laws. For much of the past year, the ATO's approach has been to educate rather than enforce, Ashley King, Deloitte's tax controversy lead partner, tells SmartCompany. He sits on a quarterly forum with the ATO that meets to discuss the rollout and administration of the new regime, and says, so far, only around 50 director penalty notices have been issued for failure to pay super.

It is estimated that the notices will run in the hundreds or thousands, as the ATO has been getting ready for this campaign for the past few months.

If you receive a letter, the first step is to figure out exactly how much super is owed to your employees. “The ATO will have an amount in the letter. The first thing you should do is determine whether that amount is correct. You particularly want to check whether it's understated. And then, you can work out whether you can repay quickly or not. If you cannot quickly repay the amount of super owed, you should talk to the ATO or a tax adviser. In most cases, they would receive advice about setting up a repayment scheme. “If you do set up one of these, it's important it's achievable,” King warns. “Once you commit to a payment plan, it's very important to stick to it.”

Ref: SmartCompany

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A MYTHBUSTER'S GUIDE TO SOCIAL MEDIA

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It's pretty common for small businesses to question why they should be on social media. Many can't understand how it can truly benefit their business and impact their bottom line. But with 65% of Australians using social media and almost half of them using it everyday this communication channel shouldn't be ignored.

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To help businesses decide if social media is right for them, it's time to bust three of its biggest myths.

Whether you like it or not, chances are you're already on social media.

It's likely that at least some of your clients are already talking about you, your business and your competitors on social networks. So it's important to be part of this conversation to hear what customers have to say about you and to answer their questions. Social media lets you build a community around your brand, and make it likable.

Although measuring ROI can be tricky, you can certainly estimate the effectiveness of your efforts. One way to gauge the impact of your social media presence is by measuring how large and active the community on your page is. Now consider that these are all existing or potential customers who have chosen to talk to you via social media.

Every time they comment, share your content or ask you a question they're pushing your brand name out to their friends and followers.

Surely that's of value to any business.

Sales come from social media the same way they come from word of mouth and it takes time. The bottom line is people prefer to buy from people they like, and a social presence gives you the chance to make your company relatable and likeable.

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MYTH NO 1: IF YOU CAN'T MEASURE RETURN ON INVESTMENT (ROI), IT'S NOT WORTH DOING In the words of Scott Monty, Ford's global digital/multimedia communications manager: “What's the ROI of a TV commercial?

What's the ROI of a press release? What's the ROI of putting your pants on every day? It's hard to measure, but there are negative consequences for not doing it.”

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Another way to look at the effectiveness of this channel is to think about what you're really paying for. Social media is not just a lead generating tool or advert. It provides so much more. In fact, your social media pages give you a means to: ! attract product reviews ! collect testimonials ! provide one-to-one customer service ! provide real time updates on new products or services ! gain and field email feedback ! shift negative brand perception ! find out who your customers really are and what they think of you ! find new target markets ! identify where your next bricks and mortar store should be ! identify which products your customers want to buy ! check on your competition ! communicate directly with your customers in an ongoing two way conversation.

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What other channel lets you do all of this? ㈵

MYTH NO 2: SUCCESS DEPENDS ON 'LIKES'

Not necessarily. A great example of social media success without a shedload of likes is TasIVF. This niche service started their Facebook

page in July 2012. They now have a modest 1,379 'likes' and just 288 followers on Twitter.

You could be forgiven for thinking this isn't very impressive, but before we judge, let's take a look at their results. Since adopting social media: ! the number of IVF procedures performed by TasIVF has increased 13.75%, and ! the number of new patients has increased by 8.25%.

On their own these results are impressive, but when you consider the cost of just one procedure, it's clear that this has been a hugely successful strategy for TasIVF. For a very emotional, highly engaging and information-rich service like IVF, likes and followers aren't necessarily the best measure of success.

According to TasIVF, a key benefit of their social media is the creation of a positive environment, where mothers and mothers-to-be can share their experiences with others in the same situation. Their pages have formed a true community that has helped women get through a stressful time. It has also helped women who are on the brink of deciding whether to undergo IVF to take the final steps, knowing there's a strong community to support them.

MYTH NO 3: MY CLIENTS AREN'T ON SOCIAL MEDIA These days, almost everyone is using some form of social media.

There are over one billion active users on Facebook, almost two million on Twitter, and let's not forget the dozens of other social sites that are used every day. Every time someone reviews products and services, shares pictures of their entrée or rates a hotel, they're using social media.

Your social media pages work as another shopfront to put your brand in front of customers. When used for business, it works quite differently to social that's used for fun – the aim is to get your followers to interact with your content so they push it out to their network and create online word of mouth. Let's think about it another way. ㄰

Imagine hosting a VIP event where 100 of your best clients each invited three of their friends who invited three of their friends and so on. You've made the effort to invite 100 people and hey presto, you've wound up with 900 current and potential customers in a single room talking to each other about your products and services. How much would that be worth to you? This is what social media has the potential to do. If you are a salon business and would like advice on how to set up your Facebook page please contact APAN on info@apanetwork.com. We can refer you to Marc Stubbs, who is skilled in setting up and servicing Facebook pages.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

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Cosmetic and Botox both carry a warning about the possible side-effect of usage. Botulinum toxin may spread from the area of injection to other regions of the body, causing symptoms similar to those of botulism.

These symptoms could be fatal, as they include trouble in breathing and swallowing.

CROW'S FEET OR CANTHAL LINES CAN NOW BE TREATED WITH BOTOX Crow's feet or canthal lines refer to the wrinkles appearing at the corner of your eyes.

In the US the FDA has passed its approval for the use of Botox treatment for mild to severe canthal lines.

The most common adverse reaction associated with the use of Botox Cosmetic for treatment of lateral canthal lines is eyelid edema, a condition in which the eyelids swell up with excessive fluid. No adverse reactions to the cosmetic have been reported so far when used in the prescribed dosage.

REF: Dermatology Today

"This additional indication will provide people with a new FDA approved treatment option for those seeking a smoother appearance by temporarily minimising the appearance of crow's feet at the sides of the eyes," said Susan Walker, Director of the Division of Dermatology and Dental Products in the FDA's Center for Drug Evaluation and Research.

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A research was conducted on the safety and efficacy of Botox in treating crow's feet before FDA allowed its usage. The research was conducted on 833 adults who had severe to moderate lateral canthal lines. They were randomly allocated to receive the Botox treatment or a placebo. It was found that the participants treated with Botox showed an improvement in appearance and a noticeable reduction in lines, seen in comparison to the people who were treated with the placebo.

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Botox has been in the news for its side-effects.

The FDA has allowed Botox treatment for severe underarm sweating, chronic migraine, strabismus (misalignment of the eyes when one or both eyes turn inward or outward) and blepharospasm (eyelid spasm). Botox

EYEBROW TRANSPLANT – A NEW SOLUTION FOR THIN EYEBROWS When it comes to eyebrows, bushy is back.

Going, going, gone are the pencil-thin, overly manicured brows that involved almost daily maintenance with tweezing, waxing, threading, or laser hair removal. But what's a patient to do now that his/her natural brows are all but gone or simply too thin?

Enter eyebrow transplants. The great majority of which are performed to repair the thin or

complete absence of eyebrows due to overplucking.

As with all hair-transplant procedures, the goal of eyebrow restoration is to reapproximate the natural direction, angle of growth and distribution of hairs. Because of how reliably they regrow, scalp hairs make the best donor hairs. “On request to avoid the need for regular trimming, I have used both chest and leg hairs with less reliable regrowth,”says Dr Jeffrey Epstein. The scalp donor hairs need to be trimmed usually (or typically) twice monthly because they continue to grow as if they were still on the scalp. The preferred technique for obtaining these donor hairs is follicular unit grafting, where a single donor strip is removed then sutured closed.

The great majority of eyebrow procedures are performed to repair the overly thin or complete absence of eyebrows due to overplucking. Other causes include hypothyroidism (thus the need for obtaining thyroid function tests), trichotillomania (patients must no longer pluck), scarring from prior trauma, and genetics. While not a contraindication to having the procedure, occasionally a prior tattoo for permanent makeup can result in some hair loss.

Patients need to understand that the goal of the procedure is not to achieve “perfect” eyebrows, but rather a s i g n i f i c a n t improvement in their appearance. A small percentage of hairs will typically not grow in the ideal direction, so they can be plucked out or trained to grow in the desired direction. Patients are also instructed on the need for trimming of the eyebrow hairs, which grow at the same rate as scalp hairs.

Jeffrey S. Epstein, MD, FACS, is the director of the Foundation for Hair Restoration, and maintains fulltime offices in Miami and New York City. He is also a Voluntary Assistant Professor at the University of Miami. He can be reached at PSPEditor@allied360.com.

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NEW SHAPED IMPLANTS MAY MAKE BREAST RECONSTRUCTION MORE APPEALING Breast cancer is the most common cancer affecting women. According to Breast Cancern Network Australia in 2009, there were 13,668 new cases of breast cancer in women, accounting for 27.4 per cent of all new cancers in women. In 2013, it is estimated that 14,940 women will be diagnosed with breast cancer.

The most likely treatment paths will include surgery to remove the cancer in combination with other systemic therapies. While lumpectomy and mastectomy are the most common surgical procedures, fewer than 20% of women will move ahead with breast reconstruction, a disturbing trend, but one that appears to be turning a corner. Surgeons are just now beginning to see a surge in the number of women undergoing reconstruction due to patient education and technological advances, including the advent of newer shaped breast implants that provide patients with a more natural-looking result.

In 2007, a University of Michigan study in the journal Cancer stated that only 24% of oncologic breast surgeons routinely discussed breast reconstruction with patients prior to mastectomy. Since this time, advocacy groups have launched major initiatives to help improve both awareness of reconstructive options and communication among specialists.

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In fact, the Breast Reconstruction Awareness Day 2013 theme is the team approach to breast cancer care. This approach brings the plastic surgeon, oncologist, breast surgeon, radiologist and gynaecologist to the table at the onset of a woman's breast cancer diagnosis to develop and implement a treatment plan. Informing women of their reconstruction options before or at the time of diagnosis is critically important to improving life after breast cancer.

New shape now available Previously, many women may have been concerned that their reconstructed breasts

would not look or feel natural. The first generation of shaped implants introduced in the early 1990s were plagued by rippling and wrinkling, but advanced manufacturing techniques and improvements to gel formulation have eliminated most of these concerns. In the US the FDA recently approved three new shaped implants for use in the United States: MemoryShape (Mentor Worldwide LLC), Style 410 (Allergan) and Sientra's shaped implants.

They are considered by many practitioners to be superior in shape, balance and feel – both principal concerns for reconstruction patients. Unlike round implants, shaped implants have a tapered appearance that mimics the silhouette of a natural breast.

Breast reconstruction using shaped implants can be technically demanding because it is a departure from reconstructive surgery using round implants. This underscores the importance of the mandatory training required by manufacturers. Despite the learning curve, shaped implants offer significant benefits, particularly for reconstruction patients who have thin skin due to the mastectomy. Round implants tend to look circular on the chest compared to natural or teardrop-shaped implants.

And while much progress has been made since 2007, still 7 out of 10 women with breast cancer are unaware that they can undergo reconstruction after mastectomy. Breast reconstruction can have a dramatic effect on a patient's mental, physical, and sexual wellbeing.

any of them, in addition to blocking synaptic vesicle exocytosis, might cause damage to the survival of neurons.”

Dr. Dong says he was intrigued by earlier research suggesting botulinum toxin type C caused neuron death. His study, which looked at both rats' neurons cultured from embryonic rat brains and human motor neurons differentiated from human embryonic stem cells, not only confirms that research, but also exposes potential dangers of using type E toxin and helps to establish a cellular mechanism.

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It is known that all botulinum toxins shut down signals from neurons to muscles by attacking a complex composed of three proteins inside neurons. The researchers have discovered that two of these three proteins, known as syntaxin 1 and SNAP-25, not only release signals from neurons, but also perform the essential housekeeping process of recycling the neuron's plasma membranes.

Type C toxin attacks syntaxin 1, while type E toxin attacks SNAP-25. The resulting blockage of plasma membrane recycling leads to the death of neurons.

“You have types A, C, and E that cleave …

SNAP-25. Then, you have type C that cleaves two proteins: SNAP-25 and syntaxin 1,” Dr. Dong says.

In essence, cleavage of SNAP-25 and syntaxin 1 not only block neurotransmitter release, but also induce neuron death. Why? Dr. Dong explains SNAP-25 and syntaxin 1

http://www.plasticsurgerypractice.com

NEURON DEATH OCCURS WITH CERTAIN BOTULINUM TOXIN TYPES Not all botulinum toxins are equally safe for neurons, according to a new study by Harvard researchers. According to the study's senior author, Harvard Medical School researcher Min Dong, Ph.D., two of seven of the botulinum toxins, types C and E, cause neuron death. And while generally safe for healthy neurons, botulinum toxin t y p e A , u s e d i n B o t o x (onabotulintumtoxinA, Allergan) and Dysport (abobotulinumtoxinA, Medicis), causes neuron death in the lab when scientists introduce mutations to a key neuron protein. Dr. Dong and colleagues published the study on Feb. 12 in Nature Communications.

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“We investigated the seven types of toxins,” Dr. Dong says. “All seven relax muscles by blocking synaptic vesicle exocytosis. This is very well established. We looked at whether

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have a secondary role: to mediate the recycling of the plasma membrane of neurons. Recycling of the plasma membrane is essential for neuron survival.

REF: Dermatology Today – See more at: http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com/dermat ology-times/news/neuron-death-occurs-certainbotulinum-toxin-types?contextCategoryId=116#sthash .xkW5iIui.dpuf

In contrast to syntaxin 1 and SNAP-25, the third protein in the complex, known as synaptobrevin, is not involved in the recycling process. This explains why type B, D, F and G toxins, all of which attack synaptobrevin, do not cause neuron death, according to this study.

So what about type A? The researchers suggest that unlike types C and E, type A does not generally cause neuron death, despite cleaving SNAP-25. Type E cleaves a larger fragment from SNAP-25 than type A, causing more extensive damage to the function of SNAP-25. In contrast, SNAP-25 cleaved by type A can still support the neuron's essential recycling of plasma membranes.

But the safety of type A toxin is not absolute, the scientists found. Once SNAP-25 has been cleaved by type A, its ability to tolerate additional mutations and defects in neurons is reduced. In fact, when Dr. Dong and colleagues introduced a mild mutation into SNAP-25 – which under normal conditions is tolerated – and then introduced botulinum toxin type A, the neuron died. “Whether this can occur in rare cases in patients needs to be studied further,” he says.

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Millions of Australians head to the tattoo parlor to get "inked" each year, but a new study suggests that getting a tattoo over a mole or birthmark may not be healthy.

Using information in practice

That’s because having a tattoo over a mole especially can make it difficult to detect the development of skin cancer the researchers said.

The use of botulinum toxin type A in clinical applications is quite safe, although questions remain about whether a patient with a mild mutation in the SNAP-25 sequence might be susceptible to losing neuron function after being treated with botulinum toxin A. If such a patient exists, it would be a rare occurrence, Dr. Dong says. Another comfort regarding the use of type A for cosmetic purposes, according to Dr. Dong, is that the cytotoxicity effect is dose dependent.

Reporting on July 31 in the journal JAMA Dermatology, researchers in Germany pointed to the case of a young man who developed melanoma on a pre-existing colored skin lesion (mole or birthmark) within a tattoo during and between phases of laser tattoo removal. Sixteen other cases of melanoma developing within tattoos have been reported in English-language journals, the study authors said.

“In order to observe this effect, even for types C and E, we have to use a relatively higher level of toxin to treat the neurons and get rid of basically every molecule of SNAP-25 and syntaxin 1 in neurons. The level of toxin we used under experimental conditions is much higher than what is used in the clinic, especially by dermatologists,” Dr. Dong says.

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THE DANGERS OF TATTOOS HIDING SKIN CANCERS

Dermatologists, however, should be cautious of using types C and E to treat patients, according to Dr. Dong. While the toxins are not yet used commercially by dermatologists, there are small-scale studies looking at the use of type C for muscle relaxing.

“In general, tattoos should never be placed on pigmented lesions; if they are, the tattoos should never be treated by laser,” said the researchers, who were led by Dr. Laura Pohl of Laserklinik Karlsruhe.

Dermatologists in the United States concur that moles should be no-go areas for tattoos.

“Fifty per cent of all melanomas develop in pre-existing moles,” said Dr. Hooman Khorasani of the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, in New York City. “It is harder to do surveillance on moles that are covered by tattoos, as the tattoo ink camouflages the mole and sometimes interferes with some of the

tools we use for detection. Tattoo removal can make mole surveillance more difficult too,” he said.

“Once you start the laser removal, the laser can also remove the pigment that the melanoma cells make called melanocytes," Khorasani said.

"Therefore, any irregular pigment that one would expect to detect will not be detected as easily. This is the reason that some subtypes of melanoma, called amelanotic melanomas, are more dangerous and aggressive.

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“If possible, avoid darker ink tattoos directly over your mole, as they can camouflage your mole and make surveillance more challenging,” Khorasani advised patients considering a new tattoo.

If tattoo removal is in order, “always have your moles biopsied before having them treated with any kind of laser,” Khorasani said. “If you have many moles under your tattoo, try to see a board-certified dermatologist twice per year instead of once per year,” as is recommended for the general population.

The German study authors agreed with Khorasani that regular skin assessments should be conducted while people are undergoing laser tattoo removal. If there are any suspicions about skin cancer, the lesion should be removed before laser tattoo removal begins, they said.

Could tattoos themselves help spur a melanoma? Dr. Doris Day, a dermatologist at Lenox Hill Hospital in New York City, said, “It’s unlikely that melanoma incidence is higher in tattoos due to the tattoo ink or process”.

She agreed, however, with the other experts that “the tattoo may conceal a melanoma that is arising either in previously normal skin or from a mole that is covered by the tattoo ink”. http://www.webmd.com/melanoma-skincancer/news/20130731/tattoos-can-hide-malignantmelanomas-experts-say

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Contained within this book are the details to win from an author and marketer who is passionately devoted to bringing new solutions to aesthetic practices. Trusted by the industry for her years of notable experience, her solutions are current yet tested, and her methods were developed in the trenches of clinic rooms and on the front (phone) lines of practices.

Written in a language that is easy to understand, DRIVE is from one industry peer to another. Expect to be engaged by candid stories of what has succeeded and failed in aesthetic marketing, and discover the reasons for their respective results. Void of overly academy theories DRIVE simply presents the hard facts that challenge modern day practices and provides the tools to overcome those obstacles.

This is not your grandparents' marketing book.

It's the foundation of your practice's lifetime marketing plan, loaded with tips, tools, and solutions to help you accomplish your goals.

DRIVE will have you confidently geared up and ready to roar.

Buckle up as you make it happen.

This book covers such topics as: Core Philosophies, Staff

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We are in the midst of an aesthetic and medical revolution. A few years ago, physicians and practitioners couldn't even imagine the challenges that they would face today. From client and patient acquisition hurdles to defeating commoditisation, it is a turbulent time and environment. What are the options for physicians and small business owners trying to thrive and even survive?

One answer is Drive – The Power of Execution. Tackle today's challenges with the proven, pragmatic strategies and tools that have been secrets of the most successful physicians and business owners for years.

Management, Image, Medical Credentials, Patient/client Education, Loyalty and Retention, External Marketing, Innovation and Creativity and Making it Happen.

DRIVE is an excellent marketing guide developed to address the specific dynamics of the clinical and aesthetic environment from a business perspective. It is not only instructional, but also narrative as it also explores “good ideas” that failed and the missing element that led to this.

To purchase this book please visit MBA Resource http://mbathesource.com/collections/books/products/drivethe-book

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macular degeneration (AMD). It is also used for preventing cancer. When applied directly to the skin it will protect against sunburn.

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WHAT MAKES ASTAXANTHIN SO UNIQUE? Astaxanthin is a carotenoid, related to betacarotene, lutein, and canthaxanthin, but it has a unique structure and works in some very unique ways. For example, most other antioxidants are depleted after they've transferred their free electrons. But astaxanthin has a massive surplus, allowing it to remain “active” far longer – at least one order of magnitude more than most other antioxidants. It donates electrons to neutralise free radicals, and then rejects the excess energy primarily as heat. But the astaxanthin remains intact — there are no chemical reactions to break it down, which is what occurs in most other antioxidants.

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According to Dr Cysewski, an expert researcher, Astaxanthin has two polar heads, which are hydrophilic (water-loving), and then the long backbone that is hydrophobic (water-repelling). It can actually expand cellular membranes and provide antioxidant protection right in the cellular membrane, which is very important.

Astaxanthin also acts on at least five different inflammation pathways, and maintains balance within the system. Another major difference is in the number of free radicals it can handle at any given time. Most antioxidants, such as vitamin C, E and various others, can typically only handle one free radical at a time. But astaxanthin can handle multiple free radicals simultaneously – in some cases more than 19 at the same time. It does this by forming an electron cloud around the molecule.

This is known as the electron dislocation resonance. When free radicals try to steal electrons from the astaxanthin molecule, they're simply absorbed into and neutralised by this electron cloud, all at once.

Another amazing Supernutrient from the Sea – ASTAXANTHIN

By Tina Viney

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A little-known carotenoid called astaxanthin is now believed to be the most beneficial antioxidant nature has to offer. Astaxanthin's benefits are so numerous, from UV-radiation protection, to eye and heart health, to improved athletic performance. It is one of the very few supplements recommended by experts for its overall and impressive health benefits. For example, in terms of antioxidant power or potency, astaxanthin is 550 times stronger than vitamin E, and 6,000 times stronger than vitamin C. Astaxanthin, Haematococcus pluvialis, is a reddish pigment that belongs to a group of chemicals called carotenoids. It occurs naturally in certain algae and causes the pink or red colour in salmon, trout, lobster, shrimp and other seafood.

It is used for treating Alzheimer's disease, Parkinson's disease, “brain attack” (stroke), high cholesterol, and the eye condition age-related

Studies also confirm that astaxanthin can also cross the blood-brain barrier and the blood-retinal barrier, and provide antioxidant and antiinflammatory protection to both the brain and the eyes.

BEST QUALITY EXTRACTION One of the most common causes of blindness in Australia is agerelated macular degeneration. Work completed by Dr. Tso at the University of Illinois shows astaxanthin can accumulate in the retina and provide protection. Another surprising benefit is its ability to improve athletic performance.

Currently, the primary natural source for astaxanthin is the microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis. It seems to accumulate the highest levels of astaxanthin in nature. Commercially more than 40 g of astaxanthin can be obtained from one kg of dry biomass. It has the advantage of the

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population doubling every week, which means scaling up is not an issue. However, it does require some expertise to grow the algae with a high astaxanthin content. Specifically, the microalgae are grown in two phases. First, in the green phase, the cells are given an abundance of nutrients to promote proliferation of the cells. In the subsequent red phase, the cells are deprived of nutrients and subjected to intense sunlight to induce encystment (carotogenesis), during which the cells produce high levels of astaxanthin as a protective mechanism against the environmental stress. The cells, with their high concentrations of astaxanthin, are then harvested.

Phaffia yeast (Xanthophyllomyces dendrorhous) exhibits 100% free, non-esterified astaxanthin, which is considered advantageous because it is readily absorbable and need not be hydrolysed in the digestive tract of the fish.

In contrast to synthetic and bacteria sources of astaxanthin, yeast sources of astaxanthin consist virtually all in 3R, 3R form, an important astaxanthin source in nature. For nutritional benefits experts recommend the microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis as providing superior health benefits.

HOW DOES IT WORK? As a powerful antioxidant astaxanthin's effect protects cells from damage, while also improving the way the immune system functions.

Two areas of astaxanthin research that are gaining massive momentum are cardiovascular and brain health.

Over the past few years there have been at least 17 studies on brain health, showing that astaxanthin protects neurons and can slow the effects of age-related cognitive decline, as well as decline in psychomotor functions. In one study, they found that people taking astaxanthin had significantly decreased accumulation of phospholipid hydroperoxides, a compound that has been shown to accumulate in people with dementia or age-related forgetfulness. It may therefore also have therapeutic benefit against Alzheimer's.

Furthermore, according to Dr. Cysewski, studies have also shown that it improves blood flow and decreases blood pressure. It's very beneficial to your heart's mitochondria membranes, and can have a positive effect on blood chemistry, increasing HDL (the good cholesterol) and decreasing triglycerides.

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HOW ASTAXANTHIN BENEFITS THE SKIN The first studies of the health benefits of natural astaxanthin were done on astaxanthin produced from krill oil. Researchers became aware of those studies as some of their customers started requesting supplement-grade astaxanthin for human consumption, noting that they were no longer getting sunburn. They soon discovered the combination of its high-potency antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties allows it to address a vast array of health concerns.

The research identified an important distinction in that astaxanthin does not block UV rays so it doesn't prevent UVB from converting into vitamin D in your skin. It simply protects your skin against damage. Dr. Cysewski further explained that one of the first reactions, of course, is that UV radiation produces free radicals. The astaxanthin, as a potent antioxidant, can neutralise or quench those free radicals and stop them from causing damage, which eventually would lead to sunburn or to inflammation of the skin.

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TOXICITY DATA SHOWS ASTAXANTHIN IS ONE OF THE SAFEST ANTIOXIDANTS If you're worried about potential toxicity, the news is good. Unlike other antioxidants, especially synthetic carotenoids, astaxanthin lacks the ability to turn into a pro-oxidant, even at high levels. The reason for this is mainly due to its molecular structure, discussed above.

It can, however, provide a slight colouration to your skin at higher levels. But most studies suggest that this colouration is actually perceived as cosmetically beneficial or desirable, in that it gives you a healthy “tan glow” – opposed to the sickly orange coloration you might end up with if you consumed too many carrots. According to Dr. Cysewski, about 15 different Japanese studies over the past five years have also demonstrated that astaxanthin has beneficial effects on skin health parameters such as wrinkles, moisture levels and so on. “People consuming astaxanthin actually have an improvement in the way they look. It's beauty from within,” he says.

Keep in mind that astaxanthin will not work miracles overnight. It typically takes two weeks to one month to see the benefits.

Ref: www.webMD.com

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The ATO's Small Business benchmarks can help you do that.

The benchmarks are calculated from information reported on the income tax returns and activity statements of businesses that operate in the beauty services industry.

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By checking your own figures against the beauty services benchmarks you can compare your business performance to the rest of the industry.

The ATO also uses these benchmarks as part of a range of tools to identify businesses that may not be reporting all their income, in particular their cash sales. They advised if a business is regularly reporting outside the key benchmark for their industry, it might indicate that they are not properly recording and reporting all their income.

However, the ATO understands there can be many reasons why a business may be outside of the industry benchmark. Having complete and accurate records will make it easy to substantiate your performance if you are contacted by the ATO.

BENCHMARKS And How the Tax Office Assesses Your Income As we reported in the spring issue of APJ the Tax Office is embarking on an educational campaign aimed at assisting the beauty industry to review their record- keeping and implement better compliance strategies. The objective is to provide the industry with several tools to assist businesses and individuals in this process, and articles in APJ will be a part of this strategy.

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It would appear that there are thousands of businesses in the beauty industry that are failing to submit a tax return, some as much as three years. Additionally, there is evidence of undeclared cash that the ATO is concerned about. These concerns will ultimately lead to further, in-depth reviews of beauty businesses, so it is important that the industry takes note to review their responsibilities and compliance in the area of record-keeping and meeting their tax obligations.

This article submitted by the Tax Office explains the issue of benchmarks and how this tool can be used by businesses to see how they measure up against other similar businesses. It will also be used by the ATO help identify any possible discrepancies in your business figures.

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Ever wondered how your business stacks up against the rest of the beauty services industry?

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HOW CAN BENCHMARKS HELP YOUR BUSINESS? Benchmarks are a useful tool to help you meet your tax obligations by:

Obtaining guidance on what we normally expect to see in business reporting Comparing your business with others in your industry Working out if you need to adjust your business and recordkeeping practices Assessing whether your business is at risk of an audit.

For more information about how to meet your legal record-keeping requirements, including what records you need to keep for your daily business transactions, refer to Record-keeping for small business (NAT 3029), or Record-keeping essentials.

Your registered tax agent or BAS agent may be able to advise you on business and record-keeping practices.

HOW DO WE USE BENCHMARKS? We use benchmarks, among other indicators, to identify businesses that may be avoiding their tax obligations by not reporting some or all of their income. Information you report in your tax returns or BAS are compared with the key benchmark for your industry. We check to see whether you are reporting outside of the benchmark range for your turnover.

We identify the appropriate industry benchmarks for your business based on the information you provide us, which includes:

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your business industry code the description of the main business activity on your income tax return the trading name of your business.

WHAT IF YOUR BUSINESS IS OUTSIDE A BENCHMARK? ㈵

There may be reasons why a business reports outside of their benchmark. For example, they may have higher costs or lower selling prices than most other businesses in the industry. It is important that these are reflected in business records. Being outside of the key benchmark may also indicate that a business may not be recording, reporting or paying tax on all their transactions, especially cash transactions.

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HAVE YOU CONSIDERED MAKING A VOLUNTARY DISCLOSURE? If after comparing your business performance against the benchmarks you find that you have made a mistake in your tax affairs, we recommend you make a voluntary disclosure. If you make a voluntary disclosure, we may reduce the penalties and interest that would ordinarily apply, particularly if you make the voluntary disclosure before we tell you we plan to audit you.

To help you correct information you lodged on your tax return, excise return or activity statement, refer to the ATO website on “Correcting your tax return or activity statement”.

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If you require further information about: If your business is reporting outside the benchmarks, we recommend you:

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Review your record-keeping practices to ensure they meet the legal requirements Check whether you have correctly reported all your income and expenses in your income tax returns or activity statements.

If you find that you have incorrectly reported your income and expenses, you should:

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Correct the affected tax return or activity statement Let us know by making a voluntary disclosure.

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We may contact you to explain why. Your individual circumstances are taken into consideration, based on the records maintained.

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Small Business benchmarks and to view them, refer to “Small Business benchmarks” How we can help your small business refer to www.ato.gov.au/businesses or phone the ATO on 13 28 66 between 8.00am and 6.00pm, Monday to Friday.

If you do not speak English well and need help from the ATO, phone the Translating and Interpreting Service on 13 14 50.

To find out more and to view the benchmarks for the beauty services industry go to ato.gov.au/businessbenchmarks. For helpful tips on what records to keep visit ato.gov.au/recordkeeping.

“I had spent thousands of dollars getting legal advice to address my staffing issues not to mention the stress. Then someone told me about APAN and I spoke to an expert there and immediately realised that I could have access to top information and expert advice so quickly and easily and at a very reasonable rate of just joining as a member.

Now when I have a query or a question, I just flick an email to APAN and within the hour I receive expert industry advice or legal advice from their solicitors it's amazing. As a professional I know my information needs to be accurate and credible. Through APAN I have access to not only the best but I also get my needs met fast! Joining was the best decision I ever made. Linda Bentley, NSW “My association with APAN is one that I greatly value. It is exciting to be part of a great organization and a large professional network that can offer me expert support and credible advice.

APAN has brought a new level of service that we have not experienced before and they have shown great integrity within the industry. Their commitment and passion for the good of the industry is inspirational. Whenever I have reached out to them they have always been very positive and resourceful. I have also found them very generous in giving above my expectations and helping me achieve my goals. Nella Faraone, Western Australia

It's not what we say about ourselves – it's what others say about us that matters! ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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“I was going through a major business crisis and it was recommended to me to phone APAN to join and access their mentoring and consulting services. Within half an hour of speaking with Tina Viney I was given immediate expert advice and gained clarity on how to address the issue at hand. Tina presented me with some incredible advice and options that allowed me to solve my issue straight away. To think we can access on industry leader of her calibre for a small yearly fee is amazing. For her wealth of knowledge and expertise I expected to be paying my yearly fee as an hourly rate. I am sold on the value of my membership with APAN.” Jenny Good, ACT

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With a strong motto of members first APAN delivers what it promises. They are committed to your progress.

Join the APAN Community of Practices. Invest in membership and reap the rewards. Phone 07 5593 0360.

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Mechanisms and protocols that stimulate or inhibit fibroblast activity in wound and cell repair

By Lynette Rouse

In improving one's appearance several procedures can be utilised to correct the skin or features and achieve a more aesthetic result. Some of these procedures may be invasive, such as surgical intervention. Others may be less invasive, such as collagen induction therapy or laser procedures that induce micro-trauma through heat with the ultimate objective to dense collagen and tighten the skin.

This article by Lynnette Rouse attempts to explain the mechanisms that follow trauma and how the body attempts to restore homeostasis, while initiating the cascade of fibroblast proliferation to achieve healing. She also examines what can inhibit fibroblast activity, and ingredients and nutrients that will support skin repair. Understanding these mechanisms is critical to the success of any treatment where trauma may occur.

The term wound has been defined as a disruption of normal anatomical structure and, more importantly, function. Therefore, wound healing is the complex and dynamic process that results in the restoration of anatomical continuity and function.

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The classic model of wound healing is divided into four sequential, yet overlapping phases: 1. Hemostatis (not considered a phase by some authors) 2. Inflammatory 3. Proliferative; and 4. Remodelling So let's first look at the chemical processes that the skin undergoes when faced with a trauma.

Upon injury to the skin, a set of complex biochemical events take place in a closely orchestrated cascade to repair the damage. Within minutes post-injury, platelets (thrombocytes) aggregate at the injury site to form a fibrin clot. This clot acts to control active bleeding (hemostasis). The speed of wound healing can be impacted by many factors, including the bloodstream levels of hormones such as oxytocin.

In the inflammatory phase, bacteria and debris are phagocytosed by the immune system and removed, while factors are released that cause the migration and division of cells involved in the proliferative phase.

The proliferative phase is characterised by angiogenesis, collagen deposition, granulation tissue formation, epithelialisation, and wound contraction. In angiogenesis, new blood vessels are formed by vascular endothelial cells. In fibroplasia and granulation tissue formation, fibroblasts grow and form a new, provisional, extracellular matrix (ECM) by excreting collagen and fibronectin. Concurrently, re-epithelialisation of the epidermis occurs, in which epithelial cells proliferate and 'crawl' over the wound bed, providing cover for the new tissue.

In contraction, the wound is made smaller by the action of myofibroblasts, which establish a grip on the wound edges and contract themselves using a mechanism similar to that in smooth muscle cells. When the cells' roles are close to complete, unneeded cells undergo apoptosis (or programmed death) and are eliminated.

In the maturation and remodelling phase, collagen is remodelled and realigned along tension lines and cells that are no longer needed are removed by apoptosis.

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However, this process is not only complex, but also fragile, and susceptible to interruption or failure, leading to the formation of non-

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healing chronic wounds. Factors that may contribute to this include diabetes, venous or arterial disease, the age of the client and the predisposition to infection. For this reason careful consideration through a detailed skin and health analysis is needed to ensure the suitability of treatment for each individual client, in order to determine the extent that they can tolerate trauma.

CELL SIGNALLING

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SUPPORTING MECHANISMS THAT STIMULATE FIBROBLAST ACTIVITY

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Dermal fibroblasts are a dynamic and diverse population of cells whose functions in skin in many respects remain unknown. The aesthetic and anti-ageing industry is presented with incredible and advanced technologies with scientific research and validation on how they can support fibroblast and cell proliferation.

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The many diverse activities taking place during wound healing are directed by chemical signals referred to as growth factors or cytokines. Originally these signals were named growth factors because that was their main observed function. As more information was developed it became apparent that many of these factors controlled more than just cell growth.

As we have seen above the body has its own in-built mechanism to achieve healing. However, there are several protocols we can include to support fibroblast proliferation and the healing process. In terms of technologies LED light is one of the most effective and credible technologies you should consider and should be used directly after a procedure that requires healing support.

Cell signalling is an element of a sophisticated system of communication that governs basic cellular activities and coordinates cell actions. The power of cells to understand and properly answer to their microenvironment is the ground for development, tissue repair, and immunity. Mistakes in cellular signalling are responsible for diseases like cancer. By understanding cell signalling, diseases may be treated properly and artificial tissues may be created.

Near-infrared with continuous wavelengths of 633nm and 830nm provide excellent support for wound healing and can increase fibroblast cells by 60,000, in comparison to pulse light beams, which show an increase of 22,000 to 48,000.

Recently a signalling molecule known as Axl has been discovered in immune cells of the epidermis. This new discovery provides new access into the function of necessary skin immune cells called Langerhans cells.

Langerhans cells, found within the epidermis, are a crucial part of the immune system. They exist in all layers of the stratum corneum, but are most prominently in the stratum spinosum. Langerhans cells work by ingesting antigens that get into the skin and present them to immune system cells that fight them off. In skin infections, the local Langerhans cells take up and process microbial antigens to become totally useful antigen-presenting cells.

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Also low-level laser therapy (LLLT) with its non-thermal/heating effect has been proven to rapidly reduce acute symptoms of inflammation, pain relief and skin repair post-operatively.

NUTRITIONAL SUPPORT While zinc is highly recommended to assist with healing, new studies have confirmed the benefits of magnesium for skin repair and skin rejuvenation. It is now a well established fact that magnesium is very

A team from the Institute of Immunology in Austria has not only demonstrated that the messenger molecule called Axl occurs on the surface of Langerhans cells, but also how this method is controlled by the signalling substance or cytokine transforming growth factor beta 1.

Commenting on the importance of this data, researchers explain that there are a large amount of benign microbes that are found on the skin that are vital for human health. The power to differentiate “good” from “bad” is thus of crucial importance, and Axl molecules play an important role during this process. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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TOXICITY Mentioned in my previous article, long-term effects of toxicity contribute to impaired collagen formation, cell communication, cell signalling pathways and immune response, which is fundamental to all aspects of health. There are numerous articles that validate how toxins impair healing. The evidence presented in many of these articles suggests that toxicity has negative ramification in the woundhealing response. If cell signalling communication pathways and receptors are inhibited through toxicity this can lead to impaired healing and possible complications such as infection and eve keloid scarring.

important for the maintenance of appropriate sodium potassium ATP (Adenosine TriPhosphate) pump mechanism (Na+/K+ATP) that plays a vital role in cellular energy flow and cellular metabolism.

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WHAT SKIN NEEDS TO REPAIR In aesthetics we can further enhance the repair mechanism and support fibroblast proliferation through specific ingredients introduced through topical application. These ingredients will not only support healthy skin repair, but also enhance the cell-renewal process.

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Some ingredients to look for include: ! Antioxidants – Repair DNA damage, reduce inflammation,

WHY SETTLE FOR JUST RECOGNITION WHEN YOU CAN HAVE IT ALL

Recognition Benefits & Rewards Join Australia's leading Network and Standards Body in the Professional Beauty and Aesthetic Industry AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK

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] Strategic Network Partnerships provide

opportunity and quality services at discounted rates

] Access to industry intelligence with strategic

understanding and direction from the industry’s most experienced through a unique mentoring service

] Gain recognition and credibility through association with the industry’s best

] Tangible benefits including MembersPlus Smart Savers membership and discounted Insurance

] Membership open to all areas of practice and

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destroy molecules that can damage healthy cells, provide UVA/UVB protection, stimulate the production of collagen and provide defence against environmental stress and pollution.

Human skin is constantly and directly exposed to mechanical and chemical challenges, which are capable of inducing the generation of free radicals as well as reactive oxygen species of our own metabolism. Antioxidants absorb reactive oxygen species and thereby prevent oxidative DNA damage.

Peptides – Are ingredients that regulate the activity of many systems by interacting with target cells, improve skin's appearance, fix damaged DNA, optimise healing and improve skin remodelling. Peptides are also the signalling response to our fibroblasts, which are responsible for elastin and collagen production. Peptides enhance the natural performance of our skin by repairing damaged DNA, stimulating collagen and elastin production, and by suppressing destructive enzymes.

Amino Acids – Directly affect the health and beauty of our skin.

They are the building blocks of protein and important for healthy, beautiful skin. Besides building cells and repairing tissue, amino acids build nucleoproteins (RNA & DNA); they carry oxygen throughout the body, and form antibodies to combat invading bacteria.

Essential Fatty Acids – Help to build up the lipid-based cell membranes that hold in water and nutrients, while they protect our genetic material (DNA) from damage, helping to combat moisture loss and protect the skin from UV damage and pollutants. This means that Essential Fatty Acids help to keep important nutrients within your cells, while allowing toxic wastes out.

Epidermal Growth Factor – Is a natural protein found in the fibroblast cells of the dermal layer and aids in stimulating cells so that they produce collagen. It stimulates the synthesis of DNA, RNA as well as hyaluronic acid and hydroxyproline.

They accelerate cell proliferation and differentiation of various epidermal tissues.

IN CONCLUSION Scientific studies now provide us with valuable information on the mechanisms that effect repair and optimise cell proliferation.

Armed with such information we can now better understand the skin at a cellular level and identify protocols and correct sequencing of technology to achieve truly amazing anti-ageing results.

REFERENCE The Journal of Experimental Medicine Published October 15, 2012 // JEM vol. 209, no. 11 2033-2047 Identification of Axl as a downstream effect of TGF-β1 during Langerhans cell differentiation and epidermal homeostasis. , Zagórska A. Identification of Axl as a downstream effector of TGF-β1 during Langerhans cell differentiation and epidermal homeostasis. Jurkin J, Yasmin N, Köffel R, Richter S, Gesslbauer B, Lemke G, Strobl H. Institute of Immunology, Center of Pathophysiology, Infectiology, and Immunology, Medical University of Vienna, 1090 Vienna, Austria.

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New Trend-setting formulations launched in the Australian Professional Market

Cuccio Naturalé For over 25 years, Tony Cuccio and his team have been at the forefront of the global nail industry supporting nail technicians with professional tools, education and services to maintain a successful career in their chosen field. A true entrepreneur, Tony and his partner, Roberta, literally built their brand, Star Nail, from a suitcase of cosmetics into a global brand leader by focusing on producing the highest-quality products at affordable prices.

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Regularly travelling to over 90 countries, Tony is always on the look out for unique products and innovative services. He believes the success of business is “based on turning clients’ salon visits into mini spa retreats and enhancing clients' salon visits with therapeutic experiences and enticing fragrances”.

To bring this to life he created Cuccio Naturalé, and along with it, many Themed Signature Spa Services to further enhance the experience.

These are available in: Pomegranate & Fig; Milk & Honey; Tuscan Citrus Herb with Bergamot & Clary Sage; and Papaya & Guava Nectar.

UltraSheer Body Butter Lytes, Fizz Tabs, Sea Salts, Aromatherapy Elixirs, Deep Dermal Transforming Wraps plus many Kit options and more.

The range also includes 24hr Body Butters, formulated with a new generation, time-release, moisturising emollient that releases moisture every two hours, delivering deep and long-lasting hydration for 24 hours.

To further complement the Cuccio Naturalé line, global superstar and nail artist extraordinaire Elaine Watson headed up the development team and Cuccio Colour Veneer & Cuccio Colour were created exclusively for the nail technician who has a Love of Colour.

CUCCIO COLOUR: Inspires clients to express their sense of personal beauty and individuality, with over 100 trendsetting colours. Each bottle of Cuccio Colour contains our game-changing Triple-Pigmentation Technology, which guarantees true colour coverage with unmatched chip resistance and brilliant high-gloss finish.

CUCCIO COLOUR VENEER: Like any other great relationship, Cuccio Colour Veneer was created to last. Cuccio wasn't the first line to create a soak-off colour, they made the decision to wait, devote nothing less than 100% commitment to R&D and a whole lot of patience. Cuccio Colour Veneer is the most advanced soak-off nail colour on the market – 100% polish-free, Odour Free, Triple Pigmentation and Extended Wear. ㄰ 㤵

In 2013, Jai & Anthony of Absolute Spa commenced a new partnership to bring Cuccio and its sister products from StarNail to Australia, launching the products in October.

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“Having known and worked with Elaine over many years, we are delighted to join forces with the team at Cuccio. The Australian beauty industry needs a high-quality range like this, and we look forward to the challenge of launching it to market,” beams Jai.

Cuccio & StarNail products as well as Bioelements Skincare and Mirabella Makeup are available at ABSOLUTE SPA 1300 262 275.

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ace insurance

Travel Insurance

By Mark D Viney In earlier 2012 APAN announced the launch of a highly competitive TRAVEL INSURANCE cover for APAN members, industry professionals and their friends and family, offering them greater protection when they travelled. This cover is provided in conjunction with The Sparrow Group, Insurance House Group and Ace Insurance.

Now that time has passed since its launch I thought it may be a good time to review what it is and what it offers.

Schedule of Benefits 2) Additional Expenses 2.1 Resumption of Journey (sub limit) 2.2 Special Events (sub limit) 2.4 If You Die (sub limit)

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Premium $15,000 $3,000 $2,000 $10,000

$10,000

$15,000

Lesser of AUD750 or 15% of the refundable amount

Lesser of AUD750 or 15% of the refundable amount

$2,000

$5,000

A. APAN ONE-TRIP TRAVEL INSURANCE

4) Luggage and Travel Documents 4.1 Loss, Theft or Damage a) Item Limit (each item) b) Video & Electrical Equipment (sub limit)

$500 $1,000

$1,000 $1,500

APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance has 5 plans for you to choose from: 1. Worldwide – Americas and Africa (compulsory if more than 20%

4.2 Delayed Luggage Allowance a) More than 24 hours (sub limit) b) More than 72 hours (sub limit)

$500 $1,000

$500 $1,000

5) Rental Vehicle Excess

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$3,000

6) Travel Delay Accommodation

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$850

A. APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance Cover OR B. APAN Annual Travel Insurance Cover

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Essentials $15,000 $3,000 $2,000 $10,000

3) Loss of Deposits and Cancellation Charges Travel Agent’s Cancellation Fee (sub limit)

When You First Look At The APAN Travel Insurance You Are Faced With Two Main Options:

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APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance Cover

of Your Journey is in the Americas and/or Africa) and locations covered by Plans Worldwide excluding the Americas and Africa, South-East Asia, New Zealand/Pacific Islands and Domestic.

2. Worldwide excluding the Americas & Africa – UK, Europe, Japan, Hong Kong, China, the Middle East, and Indian SubContinent and locations covered by Plans South East Asia, New Zealand/Pacific Islands and Domestic. * 3. South-East Asia – South-East Asia and locations covered by Plans New Zealand/Pacific Islands and Domestic. * 4. New Zealand/Pacific Islands – New Zealand, Indonesia, South West Pacific and locations covered by Plan Domestic.* 5. Domestic – Australia Only *Covered locations include the Americas and Africa if less than 20% of Your Journey occurs in the Americas and/or Africa.

7) Personal Liability

$200,000

$200,000

8) Accidental Loss of Life & Permanent Loss Maximum amount for Dependant Children: a) Accidental Loss of Life – Children b) Permanent Loss

$20,000

$25,000

$1,000 $10,000

$1,000 $10,000

Excess: The excess is the first amount of a claim which You must bear. We do not pay for this amount. The Policy excess is AUD50 for the domestic plan (including GST).

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You can be covered for journeys of up to six months under the APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance.

If you're travelling more than once per year, you may want to consider obtaining a quote for APAN Annual Travel Insurance. The Annual Travel Insurance policy starts from $465 for a Worldwide Plan.

APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance Cover

Schedule of Benefits

APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance (International plans) has three levels of cover to choose from: > Essentials > Premium > Elite

Worldwide

1) Overseas Medical and Dental Expenses

Essentials Premium Unlimited Unlimited

Elite Unlimited

2) Additional Expenses 2.1 Resumption of Journey (sub limit) 2.2 Special Events (sub limit) 2.4 If You Die (sub limit)

Unlimited $3,000 $2,000 $10,000

Unlimited $3,000 $2,000 $10,000

Unlimited $3,000 $2,000 $10,000

$15,000

Unlimited

AUD750 or 15% of the refundable amount

Lesser of AUD750 or 15% of the refundable amount

Lesser of AUD750 or 15% of the refundable amount

$5,000

$10,000

$20,000

$500 $3,500

$1,000 $3,500

$1,500 $3,500

$250 $750

$500 $1,000

$750 $1,500

3) Loss of Deposits and Cancellation Charges $10,000 Travel Agent’s Cancellation Fee (sub limit) Lesser of

4) Luggage and Travel Documents 4.1 Loss, Theft or Damage a) Item Limit (each item) b) Video & Electrical Equipment (sub limit) 4.2 Delayed Luggage Allowance a) More than 24 hours (sub limit) b) More than 72 hours (sub limit) 5) Replacement of Money

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$200

6) Rental Vehicle Excess

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$3,000

$5,000

$250

$500

$500

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$100 $200

$150 $300

7) Travel Delay Accommodation 8) Flight Delay 4 hour Flight Delay 12 hour 9) Cash in Hospital (a) Daily Amount (b) Maximum Amount

$100 $5,000

$100 $10,000

$150 $15,000

10) Public Transport Hijacking (a) Daily Amount (b) Maximum Amount

$1,000 $15,000

$1,000 $15,000

$1,000 $15,000

11) Personal Liability

$2,000,000 $3,000,000 $5,000,000

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12) Accidental Loss of Life & Permanent Loss $20,000 Maximum amount for Dependent Children: (a) Accidental Loss of Life- Children $1,000 (b) Permanent Loss $10,000

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$2,500

14) Legal expenses

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$5,000

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$25,000

$50,000

$1,000 $10,000

$1,000 $10,000

Excess: The excess is the first amount of a claim which You must bear. We do not pay for this amount. The Policy excess is AUD100 for international plans (GST is not applicable for international plans).

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APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance (Domestic Plan) is also available and has two levels of cover: > Essentials > Premium You will also need to select either Single or Joint cover: Single Cover – Cover for the Insured and Dependant Children and two (2) other Unrelated Children provided they are travelling with the Insured on a Journey.

Joint Cover – Cover for the Insured and Spouse/Partner and Dependant Children and two (2) Unrelated Children provided they are travelling with the Insured on a Journey.

Dependant Children and two (2) Unrelated Children are covered for free when the Insured purchases this Policy.

There is no restriction on the number of Dependant Children covered, but all Dependant Children and Unrelated Children must be named on the Policy.

The maximum benefit amount We will pay for claims by You (the Insured) and any other persons covered, including Dependant Children and Unrelated Children, is twice the benefit shown in the two tables to the left.

The two tables shown on the left summarises the benefits we can provide. Please refer to the APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance Combined Financial Services Guide, Policy Wording and Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) for detailed descriptions of the cover and the terms, condition and exclusions. This is found at https://secure.acetravelinsurance.com/aceStatic/ACETrav el/ATIAU/files/APAN/PolicyWording_OneTrip.pdf If You are travelling with Dependant Children and/or two (2) Unrelated Children on either Single or Joint Cover, the maximum benefit amounts we will pay for claims by you and any other persons covered (including the Dependant Children and/or two (2) Unrelated Children) is twice the benefit shown in the two tables to the left. The references to Sections in the Tables are references to the relevant Section in the PDS. Due to legislation in Australia, medical expenses for treatment and services received in Australia are not payable under this Policy.

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As you can see the benefits are very comprehensive.

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B. APAN ANNUAL TRAVEL INSURANCE HAS TWO PLANS FOR YOU TO CHOOSE FROM: 1. Worldwide Plan – covering everything but Australia for trips up to 90 days 2. Domestic Plan – covering only Australia for trips up to 45 days If you wish to take a journey exceeding this time then you should consider the APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance policy, which covers trips of up to six months.

You will also need to select either Single or Joint cover, which is the same as for the APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance Cover.

SUMMARY OF BENEFITS The APAN Annual Travel Insurance Cover Schedule of Benefits equates to the APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance Cover Premium level with two slight differences.

1. Under section 3 “Loss of Deposits and Cancellation Charges” the Worldwide Plan is $20,000 rather than $15,000. The Domestic Plan is identical.

2. Under section 6 there is a “Return of Rental Vehicle” valued at $500 for both the Worldwide Plan and the Domestic Plan.

Please refer to the APAN Annual Trip Travel Insurance Combined Financial Services Guide and Policy Wording and Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) found at https://secure.acetravelinsurance.com/ace Static/ACETravel/ATIAU/files/APAN/Po licyWording_Annual.pdf for detailed descriptions of the cover and the terms, condition and exclusions.

Maximum benefit limits apply, as summarised in this Table. Where specified, sub limits also apply.

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SO WHEN IS THE APAN ANNUAL TRAVEL INSURANCE COVER BETTER VALUE THAN THE APAN ONE-TRIP TRAVEL INSURANCE COVER? This not a simple question to answer.

Obviously the more travel you do in the year the more likelihood the annual cover will be a better fit. When I played with the quoting tool to see the pricing difference

between the two options, I found it could take less than two single trips and as many as four to be cost effective to take the annual plan over purchasing a one-trip cover. The variation in the APAN One-Trip Travel Insurance Cover quote depends on the time of year you take your trip, the areas of the world you are travelling to, and of course the level of cover you select (either Essential, Premium or Elite).

HOW DOES THE PRICE STACK UP WITH OTHER TRAVEL INSURANCE DEALS? Having just finished planning a trip to Europe I decided to compare the price of one-trip travel insurance with the discounted travel insurance offered by the travel site. The trip is for 20 days to Europe and I found that the quote I got from APAN Onetrip Travel Insurance was about 30% cheaper than the one on the travel site.

This unique and innovative Travel Insurance product provides you with not only the standard cover of medical and luggage benefits but much more – offering you greater protection when you travel.

With holiday season on us get covered today. For a small premium you now can travel with peace of mind.

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IMPORTANT QUALIFICATIONS TO BE ELIGIBLE TO TAKE ANY OF THE APAN TRAVEL INSURANCE COVER

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You are not aware of any circumstance which is likely to give rise to a claim before You take up this insurance.

You are a resident of Australia.

Cover is available for Journeys taken during the Period of Insurance, subject to your Policy terms, conditions and exclusions. Please note that some benefits are not available for domestic Journeys or parts of Journeys.

Journey means the period commencing at the time You leave Your Home to start Your journey and ceasing at the time You return to Your Home, provided the journey: a. commences while this Policy is in force; and b. has either an interstate or overseas destination or, if intrastate (i.e. within the State You normally reside) involves You travelling more than a one-hundred (100) kilometre radius from Your Home. c. is for a period not greater than ninety (90) consecutive days International Plan or forty-five (45) days Domestic Plan.

AGE LIMITS Adults taking this cover From eighteen (18) years of age, up to and including sixty-nine (69) years of age.

Dependant Children and Unrelated Children up to and including eighteen (18) years of age, or twenty-one (21) years of age if full-time students at an accredited institution of higher learning.

Due to legislation in Australia, medical expenses for treatment and services provided in Australia are not payable under these Policies.

For further information visit www.apanetwork.com In just 5 minutes you can complete your cover on-line.

APAN – Continuing to provide valueadded products and services. ㄰ APAN Travel Insurance is issued and underwritten by ACE Insurance Limited ABN 23 001 642 020, AFSL No. 239687 (ACE), distributed by Insurance House ABN 33 006 500 072, AFSL No, 240954 (IH) through The trustee for the Sparrow Trust as AR340080 for IH with ABN 45 378 606 339 (The Sparrow Group) and promoted by Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ABN 25 136 987 169 (APAN). ACE, IH, The Sparrow Group and APAN only provide general advice, and do not consider your objectives, financial situation or needs. To decide if this product is right for you, please read the APAN One Trip Travel Insurance Policy Wording and Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) and APAN Annual Travel Insurance Policy Wording and Product Disclosure Statement (PDS). Please also see the ACE Financial Services Guide and ACE Privacy Policy. Terms, conditions and exclusions apply.

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Travel Insurance for peace of mind when you travel AFS Licenece 240954

ace insurance Flight cancellations, travel delays, misplaced baggage, all these are becoming more and more a frequent occurrence for which there is often inadequate protection. However, this is all about to change.

APAN is excited to announce in conjunction with The Sparrow Group/Insurance House Group and Ace Insurance a unique and highly competitive TRAVEL INSURANCE cover for APAN members, industry professionals and their friends and family.

This unique and innovative Travel Insurance product provides you with not only the standard cover of medical and luggage benefits but much more it now includes cover for travel DELAY RISKS.

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This new product offers you the ultimate travel protection through a SPECIAL comprehensive insurance that covers you when you need it, with the additional protection against the most frustrating of travel experiences being delayed at the airport.

HERE IS WHAT THIS COVER OFFERS YOU: ! For delays of more than 4 hours at the airport The Flight Delay benefits provide you with $100 for meal requirements and other necessities. If the delay persists for 12 hours you are entitled to another $200 to help alleviate the inconvenience.

! For delays at the airport for 8 hours with no alternative flight over night The Travel Delay benefits allow you to book accommodation for up to $500.

! You've arrived but your bags have not The Baggage Delay benefit enables you to buy replacement necessities, first at 24 hours and then at 72 hours.

APAN Travel Insurance has been developed to provide you with comprehensive cover against travel delays, luggage loss, flights and medical emergencies.

EASY SELF-SERVICE APPLICATION LINK FROM APAN’S WEBSITE Visit www.apanetwork.com and in just five minutes you can complete your cover on-line.

For a small premium you now can travel with peace of mind.

AU GAW - Joint APAN Travel Insurance is issued and underwritten by ACE Insurance Limited ABN 23 001 642 020, AFSL No. 239687 (ACE), and promoted by Insurance House and Sparrow Insurance ACE and Insurance House only provide general advice, and do not consider your objectives, financial situation or needs. To decide if this product is right for you, read the ACE One Trip Travel Insurance Combined Financial Services Guide, Policy Wording and Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) and ACE Annual Travel Insurance Combined Financial Services Guide, Policy Wording and Product Disclosure Statement (PDS). Please also see the ACE Privacy Policy. Terms, conditions and exclusions apply.

APAN – Continuing to provide value-added products and services.

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