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Winter Issue Volume 17.

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

PRACTITIONERS Journal

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The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Winter Issue Volume 17. 2013

Clean & green beauty is anything but boring Unveiling the NEW

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2013

AESTHETICS



INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9 59 68-70

CEO’s Heart-2-Heart Report APAN Membership Classifications An Industry Report – Examining the Threats and Opportunities in the Australian Aesthetics Industry 88-90 Aesthetic Industry Bulletin 92-95 Product Innovations 106-107 Employee or Independent Contractor – The dangers of getting it wrong 114-116 Scientific News 117-120 Business News 121 APAN Membership

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REGULATIONS, EDUCATION AND TRAINING 54

Aesthetic Excellence Program

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 14-16 22

Winning Treatment Protocols for unrivalled skincare results Skin and naturally-derived chemicals on Cosmetic Formulations 24-35 How Human Stem Cells Work in Skincare 52-53 Solving Anti-Ageing Concerns through Cosmetic Tattooing Techniques 60-61 B good to your skin 62-65 Facial AcuPoint Massage (VE Technique) 72-73 Green Coffee Bean Extract and Weight-Loss 80-82 A new era of Aesthetic and regenerative medicine 82-83 Hand rejuvenation – the new frontier in anti-ageing treatment 86-87 Prevention and Treatment of Bruising in Cosmetic Procedures 96-99 Creed: the Scent of Iconic Women – A dynasty in the Art of Perfumery 100-102 Why enhancing cell signalling pathways can improve Aesthetic Treatment Results 112-113 Research confirms powerful skin benefits of Peptide and Protein-rich Caviar

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 18-20 26 28-29 36-38 40-41

Cover Story: EMANI a fusion of high fashion and “green” Ask the Expert Buying the Salon, Spa or Clinic you've always wanted Are you using your Mastermind? Empathy: The Brand Equity that gives you the Competitive Advantage 42-23 Does your supplier offer you Quality Assurance? 50 Member Profile 66-67 The 3-Step Foolproof Plant to Doubling Your Profits 104-105 Gaining the winning Perspective 108-110 Are your clients sabotaging your time? 111 Book review Pink Shoe Power

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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 㜵

24-25 27 46-47 76-79 123

Australian Aesthetics Conference – Sydney Speaker Program Australian Aesthetics Conference SYDNEY A5M Conference in Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine Cosmetex 2013 delivers another successful conference Sydney International Beauty Expo

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EDITOR’SNOTE

-|Don’t forget to check out our new website apanetwork.com -|-

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une has well and truly ushered in our winter season and although most of us enjoy the sun I believe that each season has its charm. This is a great time to revamp your services and create great treatments that enhance circulation, while treating the skin. Add a few extra touches such as warm bed linen that cocoon your clients into a state of comfort and bliss. No doubt your treatments are primarily about results but, don't forget to also make the experience memorable. Introduce some warm herbal infusions to soothe and calm, while also boosting the immune system.

Warmth is not just about temperatures, it is also about attitude of the heart. Think of ways to demonstrate your appreciation to your staff and don't forget to add a teambuilding fun activity as well. A happy team will contribute to a happy, cheerful and productive work environment. If you feel you need some motivation then I suggest you read our Salon Profile (pages 104-105) and our Member profile (page 50). Both these great ladies have gone out and achieved their dreams of owning their own business. You will be inspired by their amazing winner's attitude that I trust will encourage you in staying on course with your own goals and aspirations. Knowledge is power and in this issue there is a real focus on conferences. I trust you choose to attend one or more of these events as they are the bloodline to your longevity in your profession. By the time this journal is out APAN would have conducted its first conference for the year in Adelaide. If you have not attended one of these events I urge you to prioritise and attend our next event, the Sydney Conference, which is on Monday 26th August at the same time as the Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo. This year they will be introducing an entrance fee of $25. However, if you book to attend the APAN Conference you will qualify for a free ticket to the Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo that you could attend Sunday and APAN's conference on Monday. We are delighted to work collaboratively with Reed Exhibitions in support of a more robust industry. Our journal in this issue is full of excellent articles featuring some great business and professional experts whose work we are presenting for the first time. With the added quality articles that we currently have we are stepping up APJ an additional eight pages from this issue on. I trust you will enjoy reading your winter issue and that it will spark in you the inspiration to step up what you are currently doing. Indeed, progress is not about huge leaps, it's about consistent steps forward. As your knowledge grows so will your inspiration to continue to grow more confidently in your chosen field. Keep learning, stay focused and motivated and success will be inevitable. ㄰

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Editor Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

Welcome to APJ

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Typesetting & Graphics

Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

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Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

National Advisory Council ㄰ 㤵 㜵

John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-981 ㈵

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FRONT COVER EMANI Distributed by BE BEAUTY Phone: 1300 885 101 Email: info@bebeauty.com.au www.facebook.com.au/emaniaustralia

See pages 18-20 for details The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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CEO’s Heart-2-Heart REPORT

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Dear colleagues and friends

So far this has been a very eventful year. We have stepped up our educational program to include three APAN conferences – Adelaide, Sydney and the Gold Coast. The reason for this is because we recognise how critical it is for our members and the industry to be supported though quality independent education and how critical this is to their survival.

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We also recognise that not everyone can afford the costs of flying to some of these events and so CTITIO NE PRA we have chosen this year to stage them in three different States to make it more affordable for everyone. These conferences are also supported by a small exhibition from quality distributing companies giving you the opportunity to become familiar with products and services available to you in a less rushed environment. I urge you to please make it a priority to attend at least one of these events each year as your support will ultimately determine their AD continuation and growth. What we can assure you is that a lot of thought and work goes into E VISORY N staging these events to ensure you benefit from quality, well-balanced topics at an affordable fee. We can guarantee you that your investment by participating at these events will be invaluable.

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Write in your heart that every day is the best day of the year. Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-1882)

By the time this journal is published the Adelaide conference would have been staged. The theme for that event was – Understanding the New Age of Aesthetics– How are you positioned? Our next APAN Conference will be in Sydney with the theme Redefining Leadership in the Aesthetic World, please check out our speaker program in this journal and book to attend. This conference will be held at the Novotel City Central on Monday 26th August. This is the same weekend as the Sydney International Beauty Expo, which will be held this year on Sunday 25th August and Monday 26th August with a newly introduced entry fee of $25. However, if you register to attend the APAN Conference we will include a FREE TICKET to the Sydney expo courtesy of Reed Exhibitions. In that way you can benefit from both events.

Our domain for delivering treatments that improve the skin's health and condition has never been more important, and I do not believe it will ever be replaced by injectable procedures, unless we fail to meet the standards that are now required of us, both by consumers as well as doctors. GOVERNMENT FUNDING ASSISTANCE FOR TRAINING AND SKILLS DEVELOPMENT At the beginning of the year APAN was approached by Service Skills Australia to become the lead organisation in a new initiative called the National Workforce Development Fund (NWDF). This project involved the government offering a co-contribution funding program. The objective of this project is to assist businesses that have identified their current and future workforce development needs to gain valuable financial support for the purpose of training existing employees to up-skill or to train new staff in advanced procedures.

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APAN was required to identify a qualification that would best meet with current skills shortfall and would best support their business growth. Our interaction with the industry had enabled us to identify an urgent need for training in IPL and Laser. As such, we identified the recently accredited unit SIB701 Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction as a valuable qualification that would offer the best support to businesses. The four colleges that we have appointed are the Fuss College in Sydney, AACDS in Western Australia, AKISS College in Brisbane and Beauty Therapy Training Australia on the Gold Coast who was the first applicant to apply for this funding. All colleges can deliver training in all States so no-one can be

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All applicants were given an option to select the RTO of their choice. If they haven't, APAN would designate each candidate to an RTO. Following this each RTO will need to complete an Application and a Cost Analysis for the delivery of the training, which they will need to submit to APAN for submission to the Government. As soon as the applications have been assessed, and following the Government's approval of the applications, the candidates will be notified both by APAN and their appointed RTO trainers and issued with their invoice for their deposit and to determine training times that will best suit both parties. The candidates who will be undertaking training will pay 1/3 of the fee while the Government will pay the balance to the training establishment. All candidates will be issued with Gold Membership to APAN (existing APAN members will receive an additional 12 months at no extra charge). Additionally, APAN has negotiated a substantial discount to their insurance premium for all who graduate with this qualification. Additionally, we will be giving everyone with their membership a business coaching tool valued at $300, which will allow them to gain valuable tools to achieve immediate business growth. Our intention is to assist these businesses with this support and to monitor their progress as part of a case study that we can subsequently present to the Government and appeal for the need for further funding for training purposes to support salons and their businesses. We will keep you posted on developments.

AESTHETICS CHANGES AND THE VALUE OF EDUCATION We are delighted to present a report on the latest Cosmetex Conference in April and to also promote the upcoming A5M AntiAgeing and Aesthetic Medical Conference in Melbourne with which we have a close relationship and we encourage as many of you as you can to attend it.

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disadvantaged. At the time of writing this report we have received over 120 applications from the industry for training, which is in fact our quota for funding given to us by the Government.

You will also note that many of our articles cover advanced topics and some also cosmetic medical topics. This is intentional because I firmly believe that the future of aesthetics is changing. We can no longer just focus on exactly what we are currently doing and expect to survive. It is important that we expand our horizons by understanding how our services on the skin can best benefit pre and postoperative procedures and for that matter, injectable procedures. Our domain for delivering treatments that improve the skin's health and condition has never been more important, and I do not believe it will ever be replaced by injectable procedures, unless we fail to meet the standards that are now required of us, both by consumers as well as doctors. On the other hand, understanding the pillars of ageing and factors that influence and contribute to premature intrinsic ageing such as inflammation, toxicity and the role of hormonal imbalances and their impact on the skin, will ultimately allow us to achieve much better treatment outcomes that can continue to gain the respect of our clients and secure our position as reputable practitioners in advanced skin improvement and anti-ageing procedures.

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However, to best understand how what we do fits into the overall equation of appearance enhancement and anti-ageing we will be required to invest in attending conferences such as A5M and Cosmetex. I am very concerned that aestheticians who consider themselves as skin experts refuse to attend objective education because it may not be related to the products they are currently using and therefore believe the information is irrelevant to them. This is a real tragedy because it is in at these platforms that you will gain critical information that will empower you to move forward as a true professional. I often receive phone calls from beauty therapists who are frustrated about why they cannot be allowed to inject. While I explain to them the qualifications needed for these procedures I am convinced that by attending such events and lectures that address potential complications that can lead to dangerous tissue necrosis due to damage to a nerve or blood vessel will further bring home the answer – that currently their qualifications are insufficient to allow them to responsibly perform these procedures, and in the event of complications they need to have immediate access to a doctor. I feel I have an ethical responsibility to address the truth in these matters if I am to be, in all conscience, credible in my position within the aesthetics industry. I trust that my motives are understood by all. I hope I have given you some food for thought and I trust that some of you can prioritise to attend one of these great events and of course I look forward to seeing you at APAN's next conference. Please check pages 24, 25 and 27 for further details. Committed to your progress

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Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

VISIT APAN STAND 2224 Medi-Spa Hall 1 Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo. th Sunday 25 August 2013.

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WINNING TREATMENT PROTOCOLS For unrivalled skincare results By Gay Wardle Understanding the skin at a cellular level is what is required now for achieving true corrective or anti-ageing skin results. This means a better understanding of skin histology as well as ingredient chemistry that will lead to the implementation of novel new protocols that will incorporate this knowledge in a treatment program. Gay Wardle is recognised as one of Australia's leading educators in the area of advanced treatments. Having recently gained a Bachelor Degree of Dermal Therapies from Victoria University, she is now incorporating much of her knowledge in the practical arena of designing a new standard of treatment plan for advanced results. Here Gay shares with us new considerations that can improve results in various skin treatments.

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APJ Q1: With skin needling what can you tell us about growth factors and how they are influenced with this procedure? What skincare ingredients will support their proliferation and optimise collagen integrity with this procedure. Gay: I could write a whole chapter on this question, as skin needling and collagen induction therapy are one of the great tools we have in improving skin texture through effective collage stimulation, but the procedure must be done correctly and the skin must be supported with the right skincare to enhance cell renewal and regeneration. CIT promotes the release of growth factors, the main two being EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) and TGF-B3. As we age the skin becomes thinner, and EGF plays a role in the preventing this from

happening. TGF-B3 is stimulated by skin needling. It is a natural collagen growth factor that also maintains a healthy thickness to the skin. Furthermore cytikines, which are cell signalling molecules, are also released. Cytikines can be classified as proteins, peptides or glycoproteins that are cell regulators and also have an immunomodulating effect. After needling the cells will undergo an inflammatory cascade and the skin should be supported with serums that contain beta glucan. Serrata, aloe vera, vitamin B, centella aciatica, serrata or bisabolol. LED light is also a great treatment post-needling, with green and yellow light stimulating the lymphatic system, while the red light is great for stimulating fibroblasts and assisting with healing of the skin.

APJ Q2: We know that ageing occurs through low-level inflammation, what technologies and ingredients offer excellent anti-inflammatory benefits to the skin? Gay: Inflammation in the skin can occur because of clinical factors in the body, such as hormonal imbalance or other medical conditions. This is why if your client presents with hot flushes or excessive redness in the face and chest, or poor vascular network with excessive telangiectacia, it is advisable that you also consider working with a healthcare professional or anti-ageing physician who can address any underlying causes that contribute to this condition. If you don't you may find that working on a skin level alone may not give you satisfactory outcomes, or at the very least, your treatment results may be compromised and not be able to deliver long-term benefits, with frequent recurrence of the condition.

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On an ingredient level there are several excellent herbs and nutrients that contribute to soothing and cooling of the skin such as copper peptides, bisabolol which is a component of chamomile – an excellent anti-inflammatory ingredient, also very low doses of camphor and peppermint can deliver excellent cooling and soothing properties. Other botanicals such as turmeric, ginger and the Ayurvedic herb Boswellin is a great anti-inflammatory agent. Centella Asiatica is also a renowned anti-inflammatory that supports the vascular network. While we know glucosamine to be good for the joints, it is also great for soothing skin inflammation when included in skin creams. Other anti-inflammatory botanicals are rose hip oil, pomegranate, resveritrol and ginkgo biloba as well as minerals such as magnesium, selenium, zinc and MSM.

APJ Q3: Do you believe you can combine manual and chemical exfoliation eg. microdermabasion, chemical or enzyme peels, and what precautions should one consider? Gay: The main consideration when deciding on an exfoliating procedure is the colour of the skin. For example a skin type III that undergoes too much exfoliation through microdermabrasion friction can result in over-stimulating the melanocytes that may result in pigmentation. We need to understand that the skin undergoes a desquamation process of its own to remove dead cells. The question we need to ask ourselves if, for example, the skin appears to be blotchy with uneven skin tone is, WHY is this happening? What is happening on a cellular level? We need to look at correcting the cause and not over-exfoliating to just remove the symptoms. While microdermabrasion removes skin cells via abrasion, chemical peels break down the adhesion that binds cells together. If you wish to

break down cell adhesion it must be done in a controlled way and the skin's pH must then be rebalanced followed, by ingredients that will re-build the skin's epidermal growth factors. Doing a series of microdermabrasions without any other clinical objective is not only pointless, but can actually lead to further skin damage as the cells are left unprotected.

APJ Q4: What modality will work well with IPL that can enhance results further? Gay: While light-based therapies that generate heat in the tissue can

be beneficial, they also compromise certain cells through the heat that is generated, so I believe that in order to gain the most benefit from treatments such as IPL or Laser the skin needs to be supported both pre and post-treatment so the skin is in a healthy state. For example, by stimulating the immune and circulatory systems through manual lymphatic drainage (MLD) the skin will gain greater support with a healthier inflammatory response.

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An important modality that supports the skin with IPL or laser treatments is also LED Light therapy as it improves cell communication and collagen synthesis. Of course other modalities can be used in conjunction with IPL such as iontophoresis and sonophoresis or microcurrent, as these modalities can assist with age management. I recommend that you start with MLD and LED light therapy then IPL and two days later or a week later you can introduce modalities such as iontophoresis, microcurrent or even collagen induction therapy (micro-needling). You can also perform collagen induction therapy two weeks prior to IPL followed by LED and lymphatic drainage.

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Each modality will stimulate the cells in different ways to support cell regeneration, however, if the lymphatic and circulatory systems are well supported they can protect the skin against possible complications.

APJ Q5: In terms of internal nutrition can you name some of the most important nutrients for skin health and what benefits they offer? Gay: Nutrition is very important to skin health. Cells that are nutritionally depleted will lead to poor cell regeneration. For example, vegetarians who don't eat meat may have a low iron count and this can lead to poor collagen formation. Also, low protein intake in the diet can lead to weakened collagen as amino acids are the building block of protein and collagen formation. For skin conditions such as acne, the minerals zinc, copper, calcium and magnesium are very important, as are vitamins C and A. If the plasma membrane is not functioning correctly the cell walls will harden and this can lead to congested skin. In this case essential fatty acids such as a quality fish oil are important in supporting the cells against that. Since completing my Bachelor Degree in Dermal Therapies I have been able to develop additional nutritional units in my skin analysis training. To assist therapists in this regard I have developed a nutritional training program for skin therapists. This unit is of great value to all who wish to achieve optimal skin health and significantly improved treatment outcomes for all skin conditions.

APJ Q6: What are your thoughts on nanotechnology and skincare? What possibilities do they bring to an aesthetic or dermal therapist? Gay: While nanotechnology and trans-epidermal delivery systems can allow us to penetrate active ingredients deeper into the skin, there is also the concern of long-term use and toxicity levels. This is because when an ingredient interfaces with the stratum germinativum layer of the epidermis they have the potential to enter the bloodstream. This poses the question Are they safe to do so? Currently there is extensive research being conducted examining safety issues, while regulators in both the US and Europe are seeking to identify appropriate safety standards that need to be set. The concern is what will be the implications of long-term use and potential toxicity? This is where knowing your chemistry and your ingredients are so important when selecting your products.

APJQ7. Tell us your thoughts on how vitamins A and C work on the skin? What role do these vitamins play on the skin and how do they impact skin renewal and rejuvenation?

Gay: Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin that has several important

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functions in the body, but for topical use on the skin it influences the physiology of the skin by promoting epidermal differentiation and modulating epidermal growth factors. As a fat-soluble nutrient vitamin A can be stored in the body and for this reason when used in excessive amounts can contribute to toxicity. I am referring here to retinol and retinoid. For this reason vitamin A needs to be introduced in lower doses and then stepped up to higher doses as the skin adapts to the dose. However, it is one of the most important vitamins for antiageing purposes as well as for acne and problematic skin in supporting the health of the cells. Vitamin A comes from two sources. One group comes from animal sources and is called retinoids, which includes retinol. The other group comes from plants and is called carotenoids, which includes beta-carotene. The body converts beta-carotene to vitamin A.

Another important nutrient is vitamin C. In its natural form as lascorbic acid vitamin C is water soluble and is very important for supporting collagen production. Inside the cell it hydroxylates to two amino acids – proline and lysine, which helps form a precursor molecule called pro-collagen that is later modified into collagen inside the cells. Insufficient vitamin C in the skin will disrupt the formation of collagen, which is vital for skin density and wound repair. My recommendation is the use of vitamin C in the morning for cell protection and vitamin A for the evening to repair and rebuild the cells. By stepping up the vitamin A the skin can adapt to it without possible irritations.

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APJ Q8: What do you know about the various molecular weights of hyaluronic acid? Gay: Hyaluronic acid is a bio-identical skin ingredient because it is present in the skin and contributes to the retention of moisture and hydration levels. However, as we age hyaluronic acid becomes depleted. Hyaluronic acid is shown to also promote keratinocyte proliferation and increases the presence of retinoic acid in the cells, which contributes to skin hydration. We know that HA in its synthetic form is used as a filler in injectables, however, in skincare it is now been formulated in three specific weights so that it can be used in more targeted ways. The larger the molecular weight the more it benefits the surface of the skin for protection, while the smaller molecular weights can target ageing cells within the deeper layers of the epidermis as valuable anti-ageing cell support ingredients.

APJ Q9: Why is it important for results oriented treatments to be supported with professional-strength products for home use, and how should a therapist educate their clients on the benefits of correct homecare products? Gay: Advancing your knowledge in skin on a cellular level will allow you to move from treatments that address superficial concerns to a more targeted approach that addresses the cause of the problem and what is actually happening with the skin at a cellular level. Armed with such information you are working on a corrective level that is more specific in its approach and outcomes. While your client may be visiting you for an hour at a time, it is important that they also follow your recommendations for what they are putting on the skin at home. For successful results it is important that the skincare used at home incorporates the appropriate active ingredients and at the precise concentrations that are needed to support the clinic or salon treatment objectives. The collaborative approach is vital in order to achieve the best possible results. With pampering treatments, it's more about the experience and the temporary improvement, so homecare is more about protection and possibly maintenance. With corrective procedures it’s about reeducating the cells to act more youthful or healthy, as you are working at a more targeted and deeper level of the skin. It therefore stands to reason that the cells continue to receive the necessary ingredients that will support this level of result that you, and your client for that matter, is expecting.

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Gay Wardle is a multi-award winner and is recognised as a leading educator in the area of skin analysis and now in advanced treatment protocols. If you would like to undertake training with Gay or attend one of her classes in your State please contact Masters Dermal Academy Email: gay@mda.com.au or info@mastersdermalacademy.com.au or phone 0418 708 455.

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Advance your knowledge and education to a higher level. MDA is now offering Post-Graduate courses to empower you for greater treatment results and business growth. With the advances in new equipment and skincare technology, heightened awareness by consumers and the collaboration between professional aesthetics and medical and anti-ageing practices there is now the need for education and specialised Post-Graduate training to support and deliver higher levels of expertise and advanced results. Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS PROGRAM in 2011 to equip and empower you to make the transition with greater confidence into the realm of advanced treatment protocols for greater treatment outcomes. Gay Wardle is without question today's leading and most influential educator in Australia. Winner of over 12 industry and business awards, she has a strong understanding of the aesthetics industry and the elements that are necessary for a successful salon or aesthetic practice. Constantly investing in her own education and knowledge, she is not only passionate about training but simultaneously is undertaking a Bachelor's qualification with Victoria University.

MASTERCLASSES IN DERMAL TRAINING INCLUDE: ! One-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Two-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Three-day Journey to Understand and Empower your ! ! !

Knowledge in Advanced Skin Evaluation Skin Preparation Programs to Optimise Results from IPL, Needling and Microdermabrasion Treatments to Target Pigmentation Understanding Ageing in the Skin and Treatments for Ageing Skin

ENROL TODAY Training Available in most States. For further details and to book Visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au email:gay@da.com.au or info@masterdermalacademy.com.au Ph: 0418 708 455 formerly Advanced Aesthetics

Masters Dermal Academy

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A fusion of High Fashion and “Green”

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The power of a supporting family could never be better exemplified than with Kristy Scartozzi of the cosmetic supply company Be Beauty and her mother, Nina Berg. Looking more like sisters than mother and daughter, the dynamic duo are taking on the Australian cosmetic market in leaps and bounds with their innovative partnership – Kristy brings 14 years’ experience as a beauty therapist and salon owner and Nina has 20 years’ experience as a makeup artist. Having launched with great success the Christian Eyebrows and the famous Line n Grow lash-enhancing products over the past 30 months, they are now stepping up their product range and taking on the Australian distribution of the famous makeup range EMANI. “The reason we chose EMANI,” Kristy said, “is because it fits both our philosophy of purity, natural and environmentally responsible product and is also the perfect extension to our company's direction from quality eyebrow and eyelash products to a niche, high-quality makeup with a difference.”

WHY 100% GLUTEN FREE? Celiac disease is a genetic disorder that affects millions globally and in particular here in Australia. Glutens are wheat, barley, rye, oats and triticale. For these individuals all forms of gluten should be avoided, including topically applied products. Since 2009 to 2011 gluten free body care and cosmetics have grown globally by 69% from $1.8 billion to $2.6 billion.

WHY 100% VEGAN? Veganism is the practise of abstaining from the use of animal products, particularly in the diet, as well as an associated philosophy that rejects the commodity status of sentient animals. According to a recent poll conducted by the independent research firm Harris Interactive, it was confirmed that the number of vegetarians in the US alone has increased by 70% in just the past few years.

THE EMANI STORY EMANI has its roots in the transformational journey of its founder, Michelle Doan from Corona, California. After struggling with cystic acne and sensitive skin for years that – were further exacerbated by mainstream makeup, she set out to create a line of makeup that suited her high-fashion tastes, while honouring her skin's natural needs. And so EMANI was born! ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Using advanced research and development, EMANI strives to be a market leader with nextgeneration formulations of all of the company's classic favourites, while introducing new and fearlessly stylish products that find themselves right at home with this season's hottest trends – of course while ensuring everything remains gluten free, vegan friendly, cruelty free and ecologically sound.

THE EMANI PHILOSOPHY AND DIRECTION

Kristy Scartozzi and Nina Berg

“Changes are always a challenge, but change is inevitable for growth,” says Michelle. “At the beginning of every year I sit, ponder and dream the future of EMANI. It all started in 2012 when we dropped “minerals” from our logo. In recent years the beauty market has been

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flooded with new ‘mineral-makeup’ lines. It is my belief that it has become a marketing ploy over a clean beauty mission, so we decided to embark on a change to vegan and 100% gluten free. We did not change what we stand for or what is working for EMANI, but simply we are becoming the best version of ourselves,” Michelle stressed.

EMANI offer a comprehensive quality makeup range that is both luxurious as well as “green” that has been met with great enthusiasm by consumers as it is a cut above the rest.

! ! ! ! ! !

synthetic fragrances, phthalates and other questionable ingredients Breathable foundations, easy to apply and ideal for everyday use 100% Vegan: Free of beeswax, carmine, lanoline and any animal derivatives 100% Gluten free An affordable luxury, no genetically modified ingredients Strong quality assurance and FDA certified laboratories Cruelty free, TETA Certified and award winner

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STATS AND FACTS

! !

Founded in 1998 in Southern California EMANI is the leader in Vegan Professional colour cosmetics, minerals and natural and organic extracts ! High customer loyalty with over 80% Exceptional Quality and Purity repeat sales ! Ideal for normal or problematic skin Michelle Doan ! Professional quality for professionals types such as acne, rosacea, melasma, ! International distribution, including high-allergy risks, mature and Australia, Canada, Finland, Hong Kong, Italy, Norway, United expectant moms Kingdom, Ireland and Switzerland. ! High performance like traditional brands so you are not compromising quality for “green” ! High brand loyalty. Over 82% clients that purchased EMANI If you are concerned about quality and you also want a foundations are repeat sales, with 52% of the sales in two point of difference you can't be beyond EMANI. foundation categories ! Free of talc, parabens, mineral oil, harmful dyes, petro-chemicals,

JUST A FEW REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD STOCK EMANI AND WHY CONSUMERS LOVE IT:

the next generation Superior Makeup. And you don’t have to be a Vegan to love it. For further details and to stock EMANI phone or www.facebook.com.au/emaniaustralia

on 1300 885 101 or email info@bebeauty.com.au

APJ 20


Circadia by Dr Pugliese | 1800 247 223 | www.circadia.com


skincareformulations ㄰

have been shown to have a positive influence on epidermal skin function. Lilac (syrina vulgaris) contains a compound called verbascoside, which can have very powerful anti-acne, anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal properties. The verbascoside is produced from a stem-cell culture extract from a single leaf of this growing plant. This certainly falls into the category of eco-friendly materials, due to the fact that there are no soils consumed, nor agro-chemical byproducts associated with standard farming methods.

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PEPTIDE TECHNOLOGY Peptides have also joined the limelight as some of the most used and soughtafter ingredients in recent years – and with good reason. Peptides can affect any number of skin conditions by binding to different receptors – both on and outside of the cells, initiating collagen stimulation, suppressing melanocyte activity, inhibiting muscle contraction and many other functions. Unfortunately, because the majority of peptides used today are synthesised or engineered, individuals seeking “green” products may shy away from them. Myoxinol contains a peptide found in hydrolysed ocra (hibiscus esculentus) extract. This compound is capable of inhibiting both muscle contraction and oxidation. It is a longacting compound that provides a wrinkle-reducing effect throughout the day, but is completely reversible after 24 hours. In this regards it is a unique compound among the many cosmetic wrinkle reducers.

SKIN and Naturally Derived Chemicals in Cosmetic Formulations By Michael O. Pugliese In recent years, the demand for natural, organic and eco-friendly products has grown dramatically. The sector is very much driven by consumer demand wanting ingredients that they can identify with, and so we are seeing naturally derived biotechnology ever increasing in the area of cosmetic formulations. The need for advanced technology has also increased for the companies who make and supply the raw materials used in skincare formulations. New methods have allowed scientists to separate active compounds from plants that are both highly active and more specific.

PLANT-DERIVED INGREDIENTS FOR COSMETICS

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Plants contain hundreds if not thousands of complex chemicals that serve many functions to help them flourish and survive. Many of the chemicals produced by plants are linked to the ingenious strategies that assist in their growth: supplying water and nutrients, supporting reproduction and fighting adverse conditions to survive against insects and other flora. We often forget that it is the active compounds produced by these intriguing plants that we are trying to harness. Here we discuss three active ingredients derived from natural sources.

Asiatic acid has been used by a number of cosmetic manufacturers for its ability to produce collagen, as well as its ability to inhibit the destructive enzyme collagenase. This compound comes from the plant centella asiatica, also known as guta kola. It is indigenous to many Asian countries and is often used in vegetable glycerine as a way of maintaining “natural”status. As the market for green products continue to grow, manufacturers must constantly generate innovative and creative ways to supply active ingredients that conform to standards of safety, comfort and performance. As professionals, we must ask key questions and expand the options to include more green and sustainable ingredients that can still deliver results.

Circadia by Dr Pugliese profession skincare products are available in Australia. Ph: 1800 247 223

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Stem-cell technology has been a source of debate and intrigue for many years. Things have not changed much since the explosion of stem-cell inclusion in the skincare market. The questions many consumers and skincare professionals are asking is this: Just what are they? Stem-cell suppliers provide many different sources of plants stem cells, including edelweiss, gardenia and blue bugle, all of which

Michael O. Pugliese is the CEO of Circadia by Dr Pugliese and the Circadia Institute of Advanced Esthetics. Pugliese and his grandfather, Peter T Pugliese, MD, hold in-depth classes on a variety of subjects, including cosmetic chemistry and histology of the skin. Michael Pugliese is a licensed aesthetician in the US and holds a Degree in Business Management and Marketing from Kutztown University.

APJ 22


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APAN AUSTRALIAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE

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Redefining Leadership in the Aesthetic World

SYDNEY Monday 26

th

August. 8am – 5pm Novotel Sydney Central I 169-179 Thomas Street I Sydney NSW 2000

No other seminar platform can provide you with this information. Staying on top of your profession and gaining the competitive advantage has never been more challenging. This conference will give you the answers you are looking for and more – it will show you new ways of looking at your practice and business and make your success a lot easier than you thought. If you are serious about your business and practice this is the conference you cannot afford to miss.

CONFERENCE PROGRAM AND SPEAKERS

While there are common characteristics for successful business leadership, not all industries are the same. Australian aesthetics has its own challenges and unique needs that require a different set of attributes. Through a comprehensive industry analysis APAN has identified what makes some businesses successful while others struggle, and what is needed to succeed as a guarantee. Discover how the industry is changing and why leadership in the aesthetic world has different requirements from other industries. Learn why it is important to develop the right attributes that will best serve you in establishing a successful practice and a winning business model.

At this seminar you will learn:

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Time: 10-10.45am Topic: Embracing the Art of Influence in the new era of Sales Success Speaker: Trevor Russell – Director Russell Revolution Business is not only about quality services it is also about profitability. However, achieving success in your treatments and product sales now requires a brand new approach and new skills as consumers are becoming more fastidious with their expectations. Trevor Russell is renowned as the Master of Sales. He holds university qualifications as well as extensive experience in transforming businesses by increasing their sales performance.

At this seminar you will learn:

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Global changes and how they will affect your practice and business Learn the secret to effective business and team leadership attributes unique to aesthetics How to best prepare for new changes Learn the secrets to develop a highly productive team

How to take your clients on a journey towards embracing your recommendations New yet simple and highly effective sales techniques that work Learn how to transform your business figures from painful to ecstatic Master the principles of how to train your staff to take ownership of your sales – strategies and deliver the outcomes you need.

Morning tea and Networking break 10.45-11.15am Time: 11.15-12.00 noon Topic: Understanding The New Fair Work Laws And Pitfalls To Avoid With Independent Contractors Speaker: Michael Bishop – Director of Pointon Partner Lawyers

Time: 8.30-9.30am Topic: Winning Leadership Attributes in Australian Aesthetics SPEAKER: Tina Viney – APAN CEO

Networking break 9.30-10.am

REGISTRATION 8.00AM

Aesthetics, both as a practice and as a business model is experiencing major changes as have the rules that govern business practices that will secure your stability and growth into the future. Regardless of what services, products or equipment you are currently using, this conference program will greatly benefit you by giving you both an objective bird’s-eye view of new emerging trends, as well as new tools, techniques and business strategies that will help you achieve the winning edge.

Industrial relations is undergoing several changes causing many employers added stress in navigating and meeting their legal obligations under the Fair Work Act. In order to simplify their obligations many clinics and salons have chosen to employ staff as contractors. Pointon Partner Lawyers is considered as one of the most credible legal firms in Australia. In this compelling presentation Michael Bishop will address changes that employers must be aware of when employing staff and pitfalls to avoid when engaging on a contractual basis. This will also be an interactive session, so bring your questions for legal advice. Due to popular demand this lecture will be the only lecture that will be repeated from the Adelaide conference.

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At this seminar you will learn:

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Common pitfalls with Independent Contractors and risks involved Updates on Industrial Relations Laws Understanding your options and obligations Services that can assist you achieve compliance


Register for the APAN Conference and receive a $25 entry ticket to the International Spa and Beauty Expo for FREE

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Ph: 07 5593 0360 or to register on-line @ www.apanetwork.com For accommodations ph: 02 9218 2846

Time: 1-1.45pm Topic: Winning Business Strategies to help you face your future with confidence Speaker: Dan Buzer – Director, Profit Mechanics While many business-building principles are similar there are now new proven strategies that involve simplifying the process, yet will allow you to achieve much better results. Learn about new incredible tools and strategies that will help increase your profits and propel you quickly to achieve amazing business growth. Dan Buzer is the founding director of Profit Mechanics, entrepreneur and a professional speaker. He has helped add millions of dollars to the bottom line of many businesses. In a nutshell, Dan's forte is helping businesses make more money.

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The best strategies to make a business profitable without costcutting and discounting The most important keys to the success of marketing your business The biggest mistake business owners make that keeps them poor New proven strategies to implement immediately

Networking break 1.45-2.15pm Time: 2.15pm-3.00pm Topic: Aesthetic Diagnositics – Discovering the deeper cause that will lead you to successful treatments each and every time Speaker: Gay Wardle – Principal, Masters Dermal Academy

So you are excited in purchasing advanced equipment and products and learning the latest procedures? Now you will be expected to address more challenging skin concerns – pigmentation, acne, deeper wrinkles and numerous other skin problems. While learning to effectively use your products and machines is important you will experience limitations and sometimes disappointments. What is the missing link? Gay Wardle brings a unique mix of theoretical knowledge, practical skill and experience. She teaches both theory and practical techniques to therapists in Australia and New Zealand, delivers treatments to some of her clients and constantly updates her own knowledge and education, having just completed a Bachelor

Degree in Dermal Therapies. Gay will present new information on key advanced protocols that will make you excel with your results – a must for all skin therapists.

At this seminar you will learn:

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What is the cellular level telling you about the condition you are treating Manifestations that reflect nutritional deficiencies and how to correct them What to consider when nothing is working Considerations and protocols that will allow you to reach amazing results

3-30pm Networking break

At this seminar you will learn:

The event will include a small exhibition and great networking opportunity.

Lunch Break 12-1pm

Register today: Members $149 | Non-members $169 This is a fully Certified and Catered for event.

Time: 3.30pm-4.15pm Topic: The Anti-Ageing and Skin Therapy benefits Through Facial AcuPoint Massage (VE Technique) Speaker: Vera Emmi The Skin tells the real story of what's happening within the body, including each line, mark, colour, texture and secretion, as these symptom are a reflection of what's going on within the body's organs and glands. Vera Emmi will present an amazing new diagnostic technique and treatment that combines several disciplines known as the Facial AcuPoint Massage (VE Technique). This is a proven modality that will assist you to achieve better results with your clients' skin concerns. This technique will enable you to increase referrals from your existing clients and will also provide you with a valuable competitive advantage in your practice. Vera is a multiaward-winning Para-Medical Dermal Technician and a qualified Reflexologist, with qualifications also in dietetics, nutrition, Dr Vodder®Manual Lymphatic Drainage, Advanced Skin Analysis, CranioSacral Reflexology and Face Reflexology, just to name a few.

At this seminar you will learn:

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New ways to identify underlying system problems that contribute to skin conditions Achieve more effective and quicker results with your skin treatments Learn and experience some of these points for yourself and start using them within your clinic/salon. Introduction to a new, proven modality that will allow you to take your treatments to the next level.

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Q1: I have just finished my qualifications and I want to start working from home before I consider if I should move to renting premises. What tax implications should I consider? There are many issues that you should consider and you will need to sit with your accountant to review them, however, it is important that from the outset you have a basic idea of how your residence will be affected from a tax perspective if you should choose to later sell your house. When a business is run from home, the expenses that can be deducted will depend on the facts of each case. To claim occupancy costs, the business section of a home must be clearly identifiable and separate from the residential section. To meet this requirement, the business section must have its own entrance, it must be clearly identifiable as a place of business, and it cannot be readily converted back to private use. Where a business cannot satisfy these requirements, a claim can only be made for the running costs associated with the business. These would include the business portion of electricity, gas and telephone. Where the criteria are met, and a portion of the home can be classed as business premises, there can be a nasty shock for the owners. This is because once a residence has been used to produce income, a portion of the profit made on the sale will not receive the residence exemption and therefore could be taxable. This applies whether the property has been used to run a business or a room in the home has been used to produce rental income. Capital gains tax will be payable in this situation even if no interest has been claimed for a loan relating to the property. Where a business is commenced from a residence, or is used to produce income, after August 20, 1996 special rules apply to calculate the taxable gain upon its sale. Under those rules, the owner of the property is deemed to have acquired it at its market value at that time. When the property is sold, capital gains tax is payable on a portion of the gain made. This will be the business-use percentage of the increase in value from the deemed date of purchase until it is sold. This is a complicated area of the tax act and before making any decisions you should seek advice from an accountant that specialises in this area. For example, there may be an exception to this special rule if the home owner chooses to treat the home as their main residence when income starts to be produced from the property. Moreover, capital gains tax may still not be payable if a business has been operated from a property and the owner can access small business capital gains tax exemptions.

Solutions, insights and advice for problems that arise at work

ASK THE EXPERT ASK THE EXPERT

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Q2: I am starting my own business and wanted to know if I should have a logo and what are the new rules for logo design I should consider? Indeed, logos are very important as winning the hearts and minds of consumers with a memorable logo can be the difference between success and failure in business. A snappy logo that can make people connect with your brand makes commercial sense, so it is worthwhile

putting thought into its design. As your logo will ultimately be your brand it is also worthwhile to approach experts to offer you three designs to choose from. However, here are some guidelines: ! When starting out or upgrading your logo look at competitors' logos in the same category. Being original is vital, don't copy or imitate. ! Think big and consider where you want to take your business from the beginning, this will give your brand more potential in the long run. ! Consider whether a logo can be scaled down to the size of an app button. ! Be imaginative, yet simple. Memorable logos such as those for Apple and Nike are remarkably simple, but both also symbolise what the company stands for, as opposed to what it actually does. Your logo should have a strong idea that makes it uniquely your own. After all, it's setting out how you want to be identified in the world, so it should capture your personality and what makes your company special. Designs that are too complex rarely work. Keep it simple so the logo can be replicated in any size. Often they look fantastic on a designer's screen, but when they are reproduced in smaller sizes or on non-traditional surfaces they can look like a smudge or a mistake. Include a very short mission statement, but avoid an overused visual cliche. They are the sign of lazy thinking by your design team. Unless they are very clever and original, your business is going to look shallow, and at best, mediocre. In summary: ! Keep your logo simple and bold. ! Consider scalability– will it work at the scale of an app button? Does it work in black and white? Can it be animated? ! Does it feel appropriate for the market? ! Does it have longevity? ! It is something you would be happy to wear on a T-shirt? ! Does it reflect what the business stands for and will you be proud of handing it out? APAN works with expert logo designers and can offer you three expertly designed logos for $300 inclusive of GST. You then can choose the one of your choice with any changes included in the final artwork.

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If you require any business advice please phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com to discuss your needs with an expert. NOTE: These services are available for free ONLY TO APAN FINANCIAL MEMBERS. Non-members can choose to either join or receive this service at a consultancy fee.

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Redefining Leadership in the Aesthetic World

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APAN AUSTRALIAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE

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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES

SYDNEY Monday 26 August. 8am – 5pm th

Novotel Sydney Central I 169-179 Thomas Street I Sydney NSW 2000

Who should attend ? Salon and Spa owners ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

Practitioners and therapists IPL/Laser therapists Dermal therapists Aesthetic nurses Practice Managers Educators and Trainers Industry professionals

Register for the APAN Conference and receive a $25 entry ticket to the International Spa and Beauty Expo for FREE Register today: Members $149 | Non-members $169 This is a fully Certified and Catered for event. Ph: 07 5593 0360 or to register on-line @ www.apanetwork.com For accommodations ph: 02 9218 2846

The event will include a small exhibition and great networking opportunity.

“APAN's Conference provided me with some incredible information in a professional and quality educational environment. What I gained from this event allowed me to confidently change my direction and totally transform my business, taking it to another level. This was a valuable investment in my business and excellent value for money. Everyone who is serious about their future career and business should attend.” Eva Boyd, NSW

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salonbusiness ㄰

Buying the Salon, Spa or Clinic You've Always Wanted By Caroline Nelson In the autumn issue of the APAN journal I wrote an article about the best ways to sell a beauty business. In this issue we will cover the traps to avoid when buying an existing business. There are numerous issues for and against as to whether it is better to buy or start-up, however, in this article I would like to cover the buying of an existing business. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

The first step before even considering going into business is to ask yourself if you have what it takes to make it as a business owner. Being successful in business will require a blend of personality and character traits along with a big dash of common sense, practical operational skills and unlimited stamina. Just being a qualified beauty therapist will not be enough.

THE FIVE TRAITS NEEDED TO BE A SUCCESSFUL SALON SPA CLINIC OWNER 1. Goal-Oriented – You will need a Goal Plan and the ability to

focus on the actions and strategies required to reach these goals and you will need to have the flexibility to switch 'hats' from managing the business, managing employees and marketing

2. Passionate – Not just the passion for beauty therapy, but the ability to incorporate this along with the day-to-day operations of growing the business, leading employees and providing exceptional customer service

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3. Adaptable, Self-Reliant and Resilient – Being an entrepreneur can be a lonely place, when it will be you making the final decisions, while often needing to act independently, weathering calm and chaos, unexpected challenges as well as enjoying the victories

4. Budget-Oriented – Business can be incredibly unpredictable, so managing your financial budget will be an essential part of not only

APJ 28


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doing business, but staying in business, so making the right decision when it comes to outlaying money can determine the success or failure of the business

5. Driven – You need a Business Vision that will ignite both you and your employees to be competitive, determined and motivated to reach and exceed all targets and goals.

Having read through the above and if you think you possess the business success traits, have sufficient funds, skills and tools to operate a beauty business, then now is the right time to start looking for the perfect business match for you. However, be warned in the current soft economy many beauty businesses are up for sale and going cheaply. Do not be seduced by a low price. It could cost you dearly in the future. My advice is do your research before committing yourself.

THE PROS AND CONS OF BUYING These are some of the good reasons to buy an existing salon, spa, clinic: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Systems and processes of business operation are in place Established customer base Good location, lease terms, etc Stocks well-known professional brands with high mark-up Furbished well and fully equipped Goodwill exists Experienced employees prepared to stay Some immediate cash flow

The downside to buying: 1. The business has been poorly operated and has developed a bad reputation. Buy it and you will inherit this reputation or spend highly to turn this poor public image around 2. Hard to access goodwill because the current owner is the main working therapist, so if she goes will the business retain the clients 3. The location is not the best, and the building needs repairs the landlord may not be prepared to fix 4. The lease is almost up, the landlord may not want to release or may want to bump up the rent 5. The equipment is old, obsolete, poorly maintained and not what you want or need 6. You don't want the professional brand currently stocked, but the buying price includes a large stock holding 7. The business has low staff morale and staff are poorly trained 8. Because the business is run down it will be difficult and expensive to rebuild

OTHER USEFUL TACTICS So using the above information, if you have determined that everything stacksup well there are still a few more things to consider before you jump into making the final decision to buy the business, as well as numerous things that will need to be done once the contract has been signed and before you take over. ㄰

Remember the vendor will be talking up the business and you will need to move through this and view the business on its true merits. Therefore, even if it appears that the location is good, particularly if it is located in a shopping complex, you must determine if walking traffic flow moves past the business. Check to see if parking is close by or public transport is readily available. Stake the place out on several different times and days to see how many people go through the doors. This will give you an idea of how busy the business really is.

Call in and speak with other tenants close by to see what they think of

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the landlord or management company. Bad management that does not work well with tenants can be a nightmare and once you've signed the lease or had the lease signed over to you there is no going back. Also check to see what future development might be happening in the area in case another new shopping centre is scheduled to be commenced. When you are comfortable that everything is in order then you can start negotiating the price and conditions. If you have not had previous negotiation experience then seek the help and advice of someone who has. Take your time to get the best possible price and terms. Strictly, use only a solicitor who specialises in business sales as they will be more familiar with contract conditions and clauses. And make absolutely sure that a contractual restriction is placed on the vendor in regards to opening another business or working within a given time and kilometres from your new business.

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Once the contract has been signed comes the part where due diligence commences when you will engage an accountant to dig deep into the financial health of the business. Make sure that you are not taking over any debts of the business or if you are taking over any equipment leases – be aware of the terms and liability. Gift voucher sales and all outstanding voucher redemptions must be calculated on takeover day and the final purchase price adjusted accordingly. Along with the contract the vendor will have provided a list of all moveable assets. This list must be checked off at the time of takeover, but my advice is to ask the vendor if you can come in well before final settlement to make your own list of the movable assets for personal verification. In addition, if there is equipment then this will need to be checked by your technician for faults, and wear and tear, etc. You would be best advised to agree on a maximum stock level that you will accept. In addition, do not accept old, damaged or past use-by date products, and complete a full stocktake on the day of takeover. If you are going to continue stocking the product lines currently used then you will need to set up financial arrangements with the suppliers. And make sure you ascertain that the vendor has paid all outstanding accounts to their suppliers. If you are choosing to use other brands then the same thing, contact suppliers and make the appropriate arrangements. Make sure you are fully aware of your obligations regarding the transfer of business provisions for employees by contacting Fair Work Australia. Check with local authorities in regards to any licensing requirements, permits and zoning. Remember in all things ignorance is not an excuse, so do not just take the word of the vendor, do your own research to make sure you are doing things correctly. I hope this information has been informative, but be aware it is only a guideline on the most common things you need to do. You will still always need to seek the advice of professionals like a qualified accountant and solicitor. Going into business has many positives, but only if you first do your homework and are also committed and dedicated to hard work and are prepared for the long-haul. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2013

Next issue “The Start-Up Beauty Business”.

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Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years’ experience who specialises in business coaching for salons & spas. Visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com to see her full selection of Beauty Industry business tools and upcoming Business Development seminars.

APJ 29


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FUTURE FACE SKEYNDOR'S GLOBAL LIFT

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Internal affairs and the new Agelessness ㈵

While some are still battling time, SKEYNDOR has WON. No woman has to look her age, ever again, we promise. And, at SKEYNDOR, we're accustomed to always getting our way. Our revolutionary GLOBAL LIFT proves it. The 21st century has seen a series of scientific strategies aimed at preventing ageing signs at a more definitive and effective level. The most advanced and progressive are anti-senescence marker techniques which Skeyndor employs in their next generation, GLOBAL LIFT. The aim of these marker techniques is to improve the functionality of cells that have a slow metabolism and which can cause skin to lose its fullness and contour, and a host of other age reflectors that we can call traditional markers of ageing. Welcome to the 22nd century and enter the SKEYNDOR scientific team who have developed [ProGEN-in], an exclusive and unique technology, based on anti-senescence therapies that specifically target and get to the source, progerin, a protein responsible for cellular ageing. SKEYNDOR'S new GLOBAL LIFT anti-aging strategy achieves an immediate and visible face-lift effect without downtime, reducing double chins, sagging jowls and eye bags, raises brows, redefines the cheeks, while overall restoring a youthful contour for a more exacting facial definition. Getting to the cellular level and defying the space-time continuum, GLOBAL LIFT improves the skin by 5-6 years with a 90% boost in the firming effect and an 80% enhancement in facial fullness. Using Pro-youth strategies, ProGEN-in technology addresses ageing in old cells and delays ageing in young ones to significantly reduce the biological age of the skin. In addition ProGEN-in technology stimulates collagen production, protects elastin from degrading, erases the signs of photo-ageing such as loss of density and firmness through three specific active

substances: ! A biomimetic naturally-derived peptide from Elafin, winner of the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award 2012 at Incosmetics®, Barcelona 2012. This is an enzymatic inhibitor with an anti-progerin (inhibits progerin production; progerin increases as the cell ages) and anti-elastase (reduces enzyme that breaks down elastin) effect –that combats flaccid tissue in mature skin. ! Menyanthes trifoliata extract (Bogbean), a potent nextgeneration antioxidant that protects cellular vitamin C content, an essential cofactor in improving the quality and quantity of collagen in the skin. ! α-glucans and Black Pepper (Piper nigrum) rhamnogalacturonans. These molecules act in the deeper skin layers (reticular dermis) to improve the skin's supportive properties, particularly in prematurely photo-aged skin.

GLOBAL LIFT PROGRAM For a personal time capsule that transforms in ways never before possible, the pioneering GLOBAL LIFT features the professional Anti-Gravity in-salon Lifting Program that is available in individual Treatment Kits. The treatment can achieve measurable results on its own, but it's also compatible to be infused by equipment modalities such as SORISA Meso Therapy and microcurrent.

TAKE HOME PRODUCTS For maximum results there are just two multi-functional home treatment products containing the groundbreaking ingredients Lift Contour Face and Neck Cream with [ProGEN-in] Technology, Algae Extract and Lupin Extract for a cosmetic lifting effect, restoring contours and, at the same time, enhancing facial fullness and firming. Available in 50ml in two textures, one for dry skins and one for normal to combination skin types, and Lift Definition Eye Contour Cream featuring anti-age technology [ProGEN-in], Algae Extract, Buckwheat and Lipopeptides that together work to firm the eye contour and eliminate eye bags and dark circles.

SKEYNDOR GLOBAL LIFT is a revolutionary breakthrough treatment. For information, pricing and regarding our introductory offer please contact VOGUE IMAGE GROUP on 1 800 554 545 (03) 9821 0033 | info@vogueimage.com.au or visit www.vogueimage.com.au.

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By SKEYNDOR

A revolutionary breakthrough in cellular anti-ageing

The Face Lift of the Future ProGEN-in technology developed by SKYNDOR is based on the effects of three specific active ingredients: ! Biomimetic Peptide derived from Elafin – an enzymatic inhibitor, naturally-derived ! Menyanthes Trifoliata Extract – a potent next-generation antioxidant that protects cellular vitamin C content ! A-Glucans and Black Pepper – which acts on the dermis to improve cellular function of the skin. Skin ageing has been identified as a result of poor cellular metabolism resulting in loss of skin density, decrease in firmness and weakened elasticity. Pro-GEN-in targets skin at a cellular level, energizing cell metabolism and improving cellular function and vitality.

Pro-GEN-in achieves a facelift effect by redefining the jaw line, reducing double chins in mature skin and turning back the skin’s biological clock ㄰ 㤵 㜵

The Global Lift is a next generation anti-gravity lifting program that refines facial contours and restores a fullness to the face and a youthfulness to the neck.

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Contact Vogue Image Group 1800 554 545 | info@vogueimage.com.au


starperformer ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Introducing the innovative

ULTRALUX V4™ IPL & FAT CAVITATION MACHINE For a powerful and multi-functional IPL machine, The Global Beauty Group is at the forefront of technology with our versatile Ultralux V4™ beauty therapy device that boasts an impressive range of capabilities for salons and clinics of all sizes looking to provide diverse and professional beauty solutions. It delivers all the benefits of IPL treatment and in addition includes ultrasound fat cavitation and radio frequency technology, making it an outstanding two-in-one machine for a multitude of therapies such as skin rejuvenation and fat reduction.

The Ultralux V4™, which is included on the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (TGA), utilises an innovative synergy of intense pulsed light and radio frequency energy to produce superior results in the removal of unwanted hair, surface blemishes, pigmentation, wrinkles and acne. The ultrasound fat cavitation function reduces cellulite and fat and tightens skin, providing fast and effective non-invasive body sculpting and toning. The adaptable modes of the Ultralux V4™ may be applied individually or combined with other functions to administer comprehensive treatment solutions. This allows beauty therapists and technicians the advantage of delivering cuttingedge treatments with just one powerful all-in-one device. The Ultralux V4™ is an affordable investment for boosting business and enjoying profitable returns thanks to the sheer number of aesthetic applications it can provide. The demand for hair reduction, non-surgical body sculpting, skin tightening and rejuvenation therapies is growing stronger, and investing in a multi-faceted IPL machine is a cost-effective solution as the Ultralux V4™ is competitively priced compared to other machines on the market. Statistics show that women and men are seeking out non-surgical cosmetic treatments more than ever before, with Australians spending $773 million in 2012, a significant rise of almost 20% compared to 2011. By 2015, non-invasive cosmetic treatments will boom into a billion dollar industry.1 ㄰ 㤵 㜵

So for an IPL machine with a superior difference, the Ultralux V4™ leads the way in combined multi-functional photo-light, ultrasonic and radio frequency therapy. No other device can provide the outstanding all-over hair reduction, skin rejuvenation and bodysculpting results that this innovative two-in-one machine generates. At The Global Beauty Group we offer all of our clients world-class training and personalised technical support on our entire range of beauty equipment and accessories, including the Ultralux V4™. This service equips therapists and technicians of all calibres the necessary

skills and techniques to begin treatments immediately with confidence and precision.

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For more information about Ultralux V4™ please contact: The Global Beauty Group 1300 006 607 or visit www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au.

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Source: Chris Hocking The Herald Sun 21st April, 2013.

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keyingredient ㄰ 㤵 㜵

As science continues to pursue new innovative ways of achieving more advanced product formulations a new product range has recently been launched on the Australian market. LUMINESCETM is taking stem-cell technology in skincare to a new level by super-charging the production of young, fresh skin cells. Infused with a potent growth-factor complex derived from natural adult stem cells, the LUMINESCETM family of products rejuvenates skin cells at a molecular level. Dr Donna Antarr is the medical adviser to Jeunesse Global. Wishing to draw on her scientific knowledge we interviewed her and questioned her on the new advances in skincare technology and specifically how natural adult stem cells work on the skin.

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How Human Stem Cells Work In Skincare By Dr Donna Antarr – Medical Advisor JEUNESSE GLOBAL

APJ Q1. Dr Antarr, can you tell us a little about your background and how you got involved with stem cells in skincare? Dr Antarr: I am a Doctor of Medicine and Psychiatry in the US, where I practise Anti-Ageing and Mind-Body Medicine. I also have a Masters in Exercise Physiology and practised Sports & Fitness Medicine. I am a former professional ballet dancer and currently my husband and I participate in triathlons. It was working in these fields that led me to work with and understand our own adult stem cells and how they support the body’s natural rejuvenation process. I am an author on published scientific research regarding stem cells. Since our skin is the largest organ in the body, it only made sense that our stem cells work here also. This then led me to working with stem-cell technology in skincare.

APJ Q 2. Can you tell us what is the difference between human versus plant-derived stem cells when it comes to skincare and how do they differ in efficacy on the skin?

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Dr Antarr: It is quite simple, plant cells are not the same as human or any animal cells. Plant stem cells are followers, not leaders. Plant totipotential stem cells (cells that can give rise to the entire organism) do not produce substances capable of affecting other cells of the plant in any meaningful way, let alone be suitable for use in influencing the behaviour of cells in the animal kingdom, e.g. human skin. Plant stem cells have no ability to repair any damaged cells. When you cut a leaf, a plant cannot repair a leaf. Plant stem cells can't communicate with anything but the plant. They're indispensable to plant growth, but they are unlike human stem cells, which have the ability to cause cellular proliferation, repair wounds and heal organs, etc. For years we have known without a doubt that human-derived stem cells are able to affect human skin photo-ageing and wound healing, etc. That is scientifically proven. Plant-derived stem cells for this purpose are not.

APJ Q3. How does the mechanism of stem cells work on the skin and how important is the percentage of stem cells and the carrier medium to its overall capability to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin?

Dr Antarr: The body of evidence supporting stem-cell derived growth factors in skincare points to distinct benefits in supporting collagen production and fibroblast support. A study published in the Journal of Dermatological Science in 2007 concluded that the secretory factors derived from the adult stem cells may be used for the treatment of photo-ageing and wound healing. The study showed that the secretory factors within a conditioned medium enhanced the secretion of type I collagen in HDFs by regulating the mRNA levels of extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins: up-regulation of collagen type I, III and fibronectin and downregulation of MMP-1. Stem cells help to maintain our body’s reparative and regenerative ability. As we age every cell breaks down and when it needs to be replaced what replaces them are stem cells. By using growth factors derived from stem cells, Jeunesse Global has developed a special growth-factor complex that helps heal our cells and helps slows down the appearance of the ageing process. The process begins with the search for the best stem cells in the human body. The stems cells are found within the body's fat layers using a sterile and specialised syringe and doctors extract a mixture of fatty tissue and a group of healthy stem cells. Laboratory technicians then separate the stem and fat cells by using a centrifuge system. From here the stems cells are then placed in a petri dish and given food they need to grow. As the cells grow they multiply quickly, filling in any gaps or holes – this is very similar to how the body heals wounds. During this phase the stems cells release a chemical signal or what is called a growth factor.

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Growth factors are the cell's language, this is how thousands of cells communicate allowing them to do one vital function – repair and regenerate the tissue in the body. This occurs in the deepest layer of the skin. Growth factors are the critical ingredients used in the revolutionary Luminesce range.

The growth factors are combined with a suite of complementing ingredients, some of which are used to nourish the skin and the others

APJ 34


to deliver the growth factors into the skin, enhancing the efficacy of the ingredients.

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The structure of the delivery system is one of the keys to the success of skincare efficacy. The choice of delivery system may mean the difference between a superior or a less effective skincare product. It can also affect the experience of the skincare on the skin – it feels good on the skin. There are many different delivery systems. Liposomes have been used successfully for many years as a delivery method in many skincare formulations. Liposomes are sphere-shaped fluid-like vessels that contain lipid layers. The spheres transport the active ingredients in the skincare into the skin. Another example is Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride which is derived from coconut. It is a powerful, penetrating carrier oil and non-greasy emollient that is a carrier for fat-soluble vitamins. It is important to note that there are no stem cells in the Jeunesse Global Luminesce product. It only includes the "growth factors or cytokines" that have been extracted from the human adipose stem cells. Although stem cells are different from different people, the molecules that they make, the "growth factors or cytokines", are the same and therefore recognised by the body.

APJ Q4. Where do human stem cells come from as used in the Jeunesse Range, what is their molecular weight and to what level can they penetrate into the skin?

Dr Antarr: I believe that we are just at the tip of the iceberg when it

comes to using human adult stem cells to generate the growth factors and cytokines that support skin rejuvenation. So there will be more in relation to stem-cell technology as this technology is just in its infancy.

APJQ7. What about beauty from within? How can the skin benefit with internal supplementation and which nutrients are showing the most promise in terms of anti-

Dr Antarr: I am not aware of clear scientific evidence that uses both topical and internal in the same study. The issue would be that one would not know how much of the effect was from the topical and how much from the internal. Scientific studies are best done when only one variable (either topical or internal) is the one being tested or the results are not as clear.

www.jeunesseglobal.com | Tel: (02) 8007 3116

Dr Donna Antarr is a doctor of medicine. She earned her degree from the University of California, San Diego School of Medicine, and also holds a Masters of Science in Exercise Physiology. Dr Antarr is a published author and an accomplished international speaker on the topics of wellness and nutrition. She has served on the medical advisory Boards for companies and is Medical Advisor to Jeunesse Global. Dr Antarr was a professional ballet dancer and graduated from the New York School of Performing Arts.

APJQ6. What exciting new findings in regenerative medicine will impact skincare in the coming years?

APJQ8. Is there any scientific validation as yet of the impact that one can expect when topical and internal protocols in skin rejuvenation are applied in combination?

ABOUT DR DONNA ANTARR

These molecules (growth factors/cytokines) are what are used in the Luminesce products. For the cells of any tissue, including skin, to work correctly they must be able to communicate with each other, this is the purpose of these molecules (growth factors/cytokines). When we are younger these factors work well and keep the cells of the skin in good health. This communication is like "talking" to the stem cells, letting them know what is needed for the skin to be healthy. But as we age these factors aren't able to communicate as effectively due to sun, stress, pollution and natural ageing. Adding the growth factors by topically applying the serum supports the skin in using the growth factors to communicate what is needed of the stem cells found in the skin (endogenous).

including what we don't eat. All antioxidants show great promise as they are the nutrients that help us to neutralise the oxidative stress caused by free radicals. We are constantly bombarded by free radicals and no matter what we do we cannot escape these damaging free radicals. We should be eating an abundance of colourful fruits and vegetables, and I believe that we also need to supplement with natural concentrates and extracts that contain antioxidants. It is more about a blend of antioxidants than it is about specific ones. This is why I like supplements that are combined from different fruits and plants like blueberry, dark sweet cherry, pomegranate, concord grape, acai berry extract, green tea extract, grapeseed extract, resveratrol and aloe vera.

stem cells. However, it is important to note (as we mentioned above) that there are no stem cells in the Jeunesse Global Luminesce products – there are only growth factors derived from the stem cells.

Dr Antarr: Growth factors/cytokines are created by the stem cells.

Dr Antarr: Everyone knows that our skin is affected by what we eat,

Dr Antarr: The adult human stem cells come from adipose-derived

APJQ5. Explain to us the role of growth factors in the skin and how do human stem cells affect growth factors when introduced via a cream?

ageing benefits and why?

ABOUT JEUNESSE GLOBAL Jeunesse Global is one of the fastest-growing global companies dedicated to the advancement of research and product development in the beauty and healthcare market, by combining breakthrough sciences in product systems that enhance youth, both internal and aesthetic. The company presents some of the leading medical advisors in the USA, including Dr Donna Antarr MD, Dr Vincent Giampapa MD and Dr Nathan Newman MD. Products are available in Australia through health and beauty practitioners, distributors and online. Renowned for their standout stem-cell derived skincare range – LUMINESCE™, as well as the inner-health supplement range – NutriGen™ Reserve.

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REFERENCE Journal of Dermatological Science. 2007 Oct; 48(1):15-24. Epub 2007 Jul 23 – Wound healing effect of adipose-derived stem cells: a critical role of secretory factors on human dermal fibroblasts (Kim WS, Park BS, Sung JH, Yang JM, Park SB, Kwak SJ, Park JS.

APJ 35


businessdevelopment ㄰ 㤵 㜵

are performing at their peak and achieving all that is needed ! You have a team that is skilled in their professional roles as practitioners and therapists. ! You and your team are able to effectively communicate and successfully sell to your clients your products and services. ! You have a website that sells your products and services 24/7 to further support a profitable practice and professional presence in the industry ! You want to achieve a consistent flow of revenue from your business so everything is paid on time and you get to enjoy a prosperous and happy life

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Are You Using Your Mastermind? by Trevor Russell Trevor Russell is a unique individual who not only holds qualifications, but is also highly experienced in business coaching and management. His forte is turning failing businesses around through improving staff performance and business systems. Trevor is a highly motivated, resourceful and generous individual who brings a wealth of knowledge to the business world. He has a real passion in helping businesses transform their performance and sales figures in a very short time. In recent times he has established highly successful Mastermind niche forums of business managers and owners, a structure that he has perfected to deliver rapid business growth through dynamic monthly sessions that have been met with great popularity and success. As Mastermind forums are a relatively new concept to business practices, in this article Trevor explores its objectives and what you can expect to gain from them. Trevor will also be speaking at the Australian Aesthetics Conference in Sydney (see pages 24 for further details). “What about me, it isn't fair, I don't have enough and I want my share.” Have I got your attention? If you're were around in the ’80s, you'll know those words, from the song, “What About Me”, sung by Australian rock band Moving Pictures and in recent times by Shannon Noll, runner-up of the first series of Australian Idol in 2003. Where am I going with this? Good question.

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Well, I have two objectives, the first being to get your attention, and by giving you something out of context, I hope that this will allow you to become more interested in what you are about to read. The second reason is to stress the actual words I have chosen from this song as they are often the soul cry of many as they grapple with business challenges. From my observations and experience, as human beings, we at times can feel challenged and experience difficulties in life to varying degrees, and depending on where we are at in our life 'we always want our share.' If you're reading this article you can probably relate to this notion.

In terms of your business this may mean:

! !

You want your share in a successful and profitable practice To have your share of productive motivated team members who

So, what is needed to achieve this? You are committed to lifelong learning. You read and study your APJ journal, industry reports, research papers and books to stay professional and on top of your business. You're busy, working hard running your salon or practice, dealing with the daily challenges of clients, treatments, bookings, meeting with their expectations or personality differences from your staff and working colleagues. Your responsibilities require that you stay on top of everything, keeping a happy and productive team, making sure clients are treated professionally and are satisfied with the services they are provided with, not to mention your financial, marketing, sales and training responsibilities and ongoing improvement and skills development of your team. On the other hand, you more than likely are also part of a family and have personal relationships that also require your commitment and have their own issues and challenges for you to deal with on a daily basis.

Life in 2013 is definitely in the fast lane! In this day and age of business you are indeed required to be a superhero. So what's a solution that can help you? The solution should support not only your business objectives, but should also support you – in other words it should not leaving your needs out of the equation. I don't mean in a selfish way, but in a way that contributes also to your personal fulfilment and happiness, while also achieving your business goals.

INTRODUCING THE MASTERMIND A powerful tool in mastering your multi-faceted role is called your Mastermind. One of the best platforms to foster this is by bringing a small group of like-minded leaders and managers together in a forum environment where you can share ideas, solve problems, learn new skills and connect and network. In this environment ideas are shared and conceptualised, solutions found, great 'ah-ha' moments are ignited that are epiphanies and provide valuable breakthroughs to problem solving. This is the Mastermind at play; working to support your greater needs, while offering a new level of interaction and problemsolving.

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APJ 36


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The dynamic Mastermind platform offers new tools in management that are delivering amazing results as they provide support on multiple levels. The power of the Mastermind provides more personalised and in-depth information from the facilitator, who offers direction and conceptual information. He then transforms it into an interactive session tapping into the energy and resources of the group. There is a greater force at play here, which contributes to a more powerful release of collective wisdom, experience and knowledge that can give you sharper clarity, focus, inspiration and motivation on how you can best tackle your challenges with new insight, options and energy. With new information and knowledge you now not only have the tools, but also the motivation to go and take action in what is going to give you the results you need for your business and your life. By utilising the group dynamics of a Mastermind forum on a consistent basis you will be provided with a constant flow of new ideas and practical application strategies, as well as stimulating your personal momentum to continually and effectively lead your team. The objectivity of such an environment also allows you to gain the broader perspective of where everything is heading with a great deal more clarity.

HOW THE MASTERMIND WILL BENEFIT YOU AND YOUR TEAM In a snapshot here is what you can expect to gain from Mastermind forum participation:

Benefits to you:

! !

Allows you to gain the objective perspective of how you need to move forward Gain new skills not only through mentoring, but also through the

! !

exchange of ideas of others who are trying to achieve similar goals as you Be given the opportunity for you to be supported as a manager/leader so that you can effectively lead others Be positioned in a unique environment to share and grow

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Benefit for your team:

! ! !

Team will receive principles and strategies that are well balanced, tried and tested The team to gain from your energy and enthusiasm As you can gain team interactive skills you can foster these into your own team and allow them to have input into decisions that can help shape a more motivated, interactive and productive team.

THE RULES AND GUIDELINES As with every effective technology there are rules and guidelines that will determine its success. Unless the structure is correct just putting people together can turn into a chat session that offers very little direction or solutions. Working with many business owners and teams I have seen businesses that run their own focus forums. However, the challenge I see with a large majority is they are facilitated by internal team members to the business who are often not competent enough to conduct these events with the level of specialised skills needed to achieve maximum results.

Here are some areas that contribute to a Mastermind turn-off:

! !

The person being the director or business manager who has taken on the role, in most cases by default, is put incharge to run these gatherings, and quite often don't like running groups and speaking publicly. The person assigned to this role has no understanding of the unique behavioural style and operating habits of how to effectively facilitate an interactive group in order to get the most out of the session. ! Facilitating approach is boring and often focuses too long on the problem rather than solutions because of a lack of skill in running a Mastermind session ! The meeting session lacks structure and direction ! Managers can sometimes have to deal with internal politics and can be limited by a lack of objectivity, so true sharing and ability to mastermind may be sugar coated to maintain a sense of self-preservation and a 'keep the peace' type approach. ! Familiarity may inhibit the expression of true honesty because of fear of judgement or rejection. However, by far the most common impediment with an internal facilitator is that they often have emotional ties to the group, so very often emotions of resentment, judgement and biases can be running in the background.

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While the internal manager's responsibilities within this forum are meant to direct new concepts and create feedback and interaction from the team for an increase in clarity and motivation, it very often achieves very average or poor results. The Mastermind is clearly not going to be able to show up when participants don't feel free to express themselves and grow in an environment with possible hidden agendas.

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In the most extreme cases, valuable team members leave and all your hard work of training and support goes out the door with them.

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TURNING ON THE MASTERMIND

While each Mastermind has its own set of needs, I will provide you with an introductory checklist to assist in effectively running your own Mastermind forum. This list is not complete, but it will provide you with key issues to operate and measure an empowered Mastermind session or forum.

Mastermind criteria and mode of operation

! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Select a professional Mastermind skilled facilitator to manage and support the group Ensure that the person has no emotional attachment to the group Mastermind group meets at a consistent time every month Structure focuses on addressing challenges and exploring credible options for solutions The facilitator works with a clearly defined Mastermind structure Facilitator ensures the environment is open, honest and safe for all Facilitator ensures that the communication remains positive and productive with a view of reaching results Team members' unique individual style is understood, recognised and acknowledged Projects broken down into tasks and outcomes and objectives recorded and monitored Specific training and education is delivered as part of the Mastermind forum Commitment of participants of what needs to be achieved by the next Mastermind forum

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

The other advantage of the Mastermind forums is that they are a lot more cost-effective than one-on-one sessions. While a groupfacilitated event does not give you total one-on-one time with the expert, it will still be focusing on a theme, or a particular concern you have. You will be able to speak, to some extent, with the coach/ facilitator and you will also get a chance to see how other businesses are addressing the same concerns you have. These diversified dynamics can offer you great benefits. You will be given homework to do on your business and the next session will proceed from there. That means that you will also gain the advantage of accountability and incremental support along your way to progress and success.

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Coming back to costs, I'm sure you have experienced when making a decision that the prime consideration is the value to you, when you have identified that you can always find the money. Don't worry about the money, you will increase your revenue quicker than you think. The other point I would like to make is for you to consider what is it costing the business by not running it with this type of high-quality, personal development team support?

Further to this area of discussion, we as humans often are plagued with feelings of fear and judgement around anything we don't understand, or haven't experienced yet. These fears and doubts will come up to protect us from a perceived danger – a danger that doesn't really exist. All the same, however, they do feel very real at times. This is all the more reason why it's so important to have an effective Mastermind forum, running consistently to support your business's ongoing success and improved sense of confidence in the process.

IN CONCLUSION If you don't already operate a Mastermind forum within your business, I invite you to do so. Use my checklist as a basis for its operation and management. I would be excited to hear from you with regard to what it created and how the team and business has grown from the exercise. I personally would be very happy to discuss your needs and how I may be of assistance to you in your practice, whether it is in the creation of a Mastermind forum, or to assist you with putting in place and operating appropriate and specific business strategies, or even a one-on-one support for your team. My passion is in helping turn businesses around to where they are generating the necessary income to create a happy and productive work environment, while also creating a life they will love. Trevor Russell is a business strategist, coach, team trainer and professional speaker. He is highly motivated and brings out the best in business owners and teams. He has worked with over 200 businesses across many industries and is experienced in peak human performance, marketing, finance and sales. He specialises in business Mastermind group facilitation and sales training and motivation.

Trevor’s intention is to have you create the business and life you love. To use Trevor's services, contact: info@trevorrussell.com.au | www.trevorrussell.com.au

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APJ 38


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businesspsychology ㄰

Empathy: The Brand Equity that gives you the

COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE By Tina Viney Listening is rare. There are certain people to whom we feel we can talk to because they have such a deep capacity for hearing – really hearing what comes out of our heart, not just words, but actually hearing us as a person. They enable us to communicate on a level we've never reached before. They enable us to be as we've never been before. We will never truly know ourselves unless we find people who can listen, who can enable us to emerge, to come out of ourselves, to discover who we are. We cannot discover ourselves by ourselves. This is part of the magic of human meaningful interaction.

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It amazes me that even in the corporate world the value and importance of meaningful human engagement and interaction is gaining importance. Statements such as killer instinct, nailing the deal and closing the sale are being replaced with statements such as building relationships, compassion and empathy as being the new forces that are driving business success.

There's a famous line from the movie The Godfather, which is often repeated in corporate settings: "This is business, not personal." Ironically, though, that statement is actually bad business advice. ㈵

During the Consortium for Operational Excellence in Retailing, a conference held recently at Harvard Business School, Professor

Ananth Raman discussed the importance of empathy in customerfacing business. "As we're talking about things like retail efficiency and profitability, this is a topic that I think needs more attention," Raman told an audience of retail executives. "Are you in the business of rationality or emotionality?" To kick off the conversation, Raman relayed what happened when Cleveland Clinic CEO Delos Cosgrove visited a class at Harvard Business School a few years ago to discuss a case study on the renowned hospital. Dr. Cosgrove was intending to highlight the clinic's record of operational excellence when a student threw him a curveball of a question: "What is the hospital doing to teach its doctors about empathy?" It turned out that the student's father, also a doctor, had undergone a mitral-valve replacement in 2000. Although the Cleveland Clinic had been consistently ranked No. 1 by US News & World Report for heartsurgery survival rates, her father opted to go to the No. 2 ranked Mayo Clinic. The reason for his choice was that doctors at the Cleveland Clinic had a reputation for communicating badly before and after surgery.

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APJ 40


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In other words, the Cleveland Clinic had lost business solely due to a lack of empathy. "It was like the prettiest girl in class not getting a date," Raman said. This story was a transformative experience that led the hospital to establish the Office of Patient Experience in 2009. Likewise in our industry, which is classified as a “personal services” industry, business is not just about communicating facts and information to our clients that will win their confidence. Much of what happens in a salon comes within the realm of interpersonal relationships. Gaining the trust of your client will depend on your level of professionalism and expertise, but will equally depend on your ability to connect with your client on a more intuitive level. This is where understanding the meaning and value of empathy can be the missing link that will seal the trust and confidence your client will have in you.

Sympathetic understanding involves the process where the helper loses her own separate identity and assumes the client's feelings and circumstances as if she were that person. In contrast, empathy requires us to 'feel' for the person, yet still maintain our sense of self that will allow us to engage with the other person by offering some support or benefit in the process e.g. “I understand and feel your pain, let's see how we can help you feel better today”.

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Having empathy means the helping person may 'borrow' her client's feelings so that she fully understands them emotionally and intellectually, but is always aware of her own separateness and her ability to offer support and relief.

EMPATHIC PERCEPTIONS AND COMMUNICATION Empathy is an essential element of the interpersonal process, and although it is a difficult communication quality to achieve, when mastered it forms the basis for an excellent relationship between family and friends, and in particular, between therapist and client. So what is empathy? It is the ability to accurately perceive another person's present feelings and their meanings. It is the antithesis of the very stereotype pre-determined comments that we as therapists sometimes portray, which prompts such comments as “This is a lovely treatment, all our clients love it”. Empathy treats the other person as an individual. It requires of you that you seek to perceive and understand the current feelings of your client as they present today, not how they were last time you saw them, but 'now' is the important consideration. This is where most of us miss it, particularly with people with whom we are familiar, we assume their feelings and state of mind are exactly the same as the last time we saw them, when possibly that can be further from the truth. Expectations of feelings or behaviour based on earlier experiences can often be misleading, because where you have a preconceived frame of mind about a client this makes it very difficult to be in tune with her/his current feelings. While empathy is always a valuable method of communicating, it is probably of greatest value at a moment of a negative confrontation. It is easy to interpret literally the verbalisation of a client and ignore the unspoken expressions, deeper veiled messages of the person at the time. The empathic therapist therefore attempts to feel the anxiousness or frustration of her client while looking for other nonverbal cues, but is not disabled by them. She senses the client's joy, love, fear or anger as if it were her own feeling, but at the same time does not lose the focus or purpose of her involvement with the client, which is to service their needs in her professional capacity. Meanwhile, empathy enables her to deliver her services in a more personalised manner that will take into consideration the client's mental and emotional state.

Empathy between two people is a very powerful attraction. When someone shows us empathy we tend to gravitate to them as we feel they understand us and have our welfare at heart. This invariably leads us to also trust them in their recommendations.

SYMPATHY VERSUS EMPATHY 㜵

Is the difference between sympathy and empathy just another type of human understanding or is sympathy a more passive state of relating to the other person? “You poor lady, how dreadful for you” or, “That is really awful, you must be devastated,” are sympathy statements that involved the listener to be totally engrossed by the other person’s problem, but without giving them any reassurance.

For empathic perceptions to be useful they must be communicated effectively both verbally and non-verbally so that the client feels that she/he is understood by the therapist. The empathic therapist listens to her clients in a non-judgemental or non-prejudicial way, noting any special significance in the messages. Some examples might be: “It seems as if you are very happy with the decision you have made" or, “It sounds as though you are looking forward to continuing". Empathic communications articulates back what the client is feeling in a language and tone that the client will be able to relate to and in a way that will affirm their feelings and thoughts. Research studies reveal that through empathic communication a client may learn that her point of view is of value to her therapist, that she is being listened to and that the therapist does really care not only about her treatment or skin problem, but also respects her as an individual. In this mode of communicating, the other person will feel understood and accepted.

EMPATHY – A SINCERE EMOTION When we take a closer look at empathy it can really be summed up as having a sincere and genuine interest in the other person. Empathy requires putting your own scattered thoughts, preconceived ideas or even prejudices aside and focusing on the other person with genuine interest and a willingness to really listen to what they have to say, while making the effort to hear and understand them. Have you ever found yourself feeling awkward with some people when you talk to them, where you really struggle to make the connection? This is a classic case of a lack of empathy. On the other hand, if you find opening up to someone really easy you can be assured that empathy is the catalyst. In a world of gadgets and the plethora of countless communication technologies, the art of conversation, listening and the human element is often replaced with text messages, tweets and brief mobile phone discussions amid crowds, in shopping centres, lifts or on the run. While there is a level of convenience in these interactions, the human soul still longs for something more meaningful. Nothing can and will ever rival the power of empathy in enriching human interactions. ㄰

It is true that empathic communication is not a passive process and will not happen automatically, however, it is one worth cultivating, and in today's business world it is the glue that frequently builds trust and leads to a successful business transaction.

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APJ 41


salonbusiness ㄰

long-term plans and areas you may wish to expand into, such as catering for the male clientele, stressed mothers, or the busy corporate client who wants to look their best.

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I want to share a story with you about a salon owner that I met in early 2012 as it demonstrates a perfect example of a great concept with the wrong product. This particular business was in a very good area of one of our major cities where the average client of this salon drove a high-end European car, sent their children to private schools and lived in very expensive homes. I am the first to admit that in areas like these you must still offer good value for money, as all clients for that matter are looking for this, but in high socio-economic demographics quality is even more important.

Does your Supplier offer you QUALITY ASSURANCE? By Tess Walls In the past few years there have been many businesses that have come and gone, and I believe some could have avoided closure had they had a different brand of product and more support from their supplier.

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To help you identify the best possible supplier I have put together a checklist that you should consider when selecting a brand that can offer you quality assurance across the board that can deliver equally on results as well as business growth. Here are some key considerations:

Now 12 months on after matching a product that best suited their clients' needs and expectations they have grown their retail sales by 400%.

KNOW YOUR CLIENTS

This is a perfect example of the importance of a product matching the clientele and why identifying the correct products can substantially increase sales, client retention, loyalty and ultimately business growth.

When I sat down with them and reviewed their figures and talked about retail and client retention rates I was amazed to identify that their figures were low for the demographic they were in. I was very familiar with the region having known other salon owners in that area.

When we started discussing the products they were offering and the reason they had chosen them, it became very clear that the choice of product had more to do with the fact that the owner liked it than it actually matching the calibre and requirement of their client base. The product was quite cheaply presented, the marketing material was very basic and the product itself did not feel or look luxurious or promise any noteworthy results. After assessing the socio-economic and lifestyle trends of their demographics we understood why their clients were buying elsewhere and why the salon was missing out on thousands of dollars every month in sales.

First and foremost you need to understand your market and the calibre of client you will be targeting and catering for. When choosing a brand it is important that you look beyond just what you would like for yourself to what will best cater for the needs of your clients and their specific and diverse requirements. You should also consider your

This particular business had been operating for four years by the time we met and their business was doing OK, they had four staff members, which matched their four rooms, and their therapists were offering what seemed to be good customer service. Overall, they were operating with the motto “if it's not broken why fix it”.

When reviewing the product brand that you have within your existing business, or choosing a new brand for a new business, it is imperative that you look closely at specific considerations as to what they are offering and not just be fooled by the glossy brochures and marketing. After all, the product of your choice will impact on your brand as a service provider through its ability to deliver results that enhances your business image and reputation. In this regard it is probably one of the most important decisions in your business you will ever make.

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LOOK FOR SCIENTIFIC VALIDATION AND QUALITY

Consumer spending has certainly changed in the past five years, but

APJ 42


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one thing that has not changed is that clients will only rebook with you, purchase from you and tell their friends about you if they trust you. Your choice of product will directly reflect your integrity, so choose one that offers honest, independent, scientifically validated studies for its purity and its efficacy in delivering results. A credible company should be able to offer you scientific data, credible “before and after” photos and clearly state what their active ingredients are and their concentrations, so that you can be assured that their product reflects and meets the highest standards of product development. Look for scientifically validated ingredients that are at the forefront of global formulations, as well as purity, effective delivery systems, molecular weights, concentrations and percentages of active ingredients. This will not only assure you of quality results, but will offer you a product that you can be proud to promote and sell to your clients.

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Consumers still prefer to pay for good quality products that offer guaranteed results over run-of-the-mill products that have no scientific backing and will leave them yearning for something better. For a product to be able to stand up to today's fiercely competitive cosmetic market it must be backed by sound and credible research data and must offer high-quality ingredients in clinical-strength concentrations that can rival supermarket brands.

TRAINING AND SUPPORT As a therapist and business owner you need to know that specific protocols will deliver the best possible results and the company of your choice can offer you these through a comprehensive training program with on-going support. It is important that the standard of treatment must meet certain requirements and that all staff members are trained to deliver and meet with set protocols that the company has designed to deliver treatment results to a guaranteed level. If the company does not offer that then more than likely their product has been developed for retail only and has not been tested and measured for the professional treatment environment. In this market this product will not give you the competitive advantage.

DIVERSE PRODUCT RANGE

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If your business is designed to grow it needs to cater also for diversity. An ideal company should be also able to offer you niche product classifications for various consumer needs. For example, key considerations should be: ! Anti-ageing category with advanced cosmeceutical treatments and products as this is by far the fastest growing-category with the highest consumer spending. ! Natural derived botanical products or organic products are a must for the “green friendly” client who is environmentally conscious and wants to know the ingredients they are putting on their skin. ! Specialty ranges such Acne range or Teenage Skin are also another category to consider. ! Men's Treatments and Retail. After anti-ageing, men's cosmetics is the fastest-growing category in the past 12 months. This is a great market that requires some study in order to successfully cater for it, but can be very lucrative if marketed correctly. ! Skin Treatment Makeup. This is another great market leader that is designed to complement skins that are investing in various treatments, especially the allergy-prone, anti-ageing and problematic skin conditions. ! Body and Spa treatment. Whether you are offering spa treatments or not, a good body range and treatments for de-stressing and relaxation should be considered into the mix of treatment. Everyone needs a good body exfoliant, sun production and a highquality all-over body moisturiser as well as foot care, which is a must for the well-groomed woman.

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Magnesium Chloride: The king of minerals

MAGNESIUM FOR A HEALTHY BODY, MIND AND RELAXATION

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HELPS TO:

]Relieves Stress ]Reduces muscle fatigue and cramps

]Increases skin elasticity and vibrancy

]Assist in having a better night sleep

]Reduces menstrual pain ]Reduces hot flushes in menopause

]High in Vitamin D

Are you magnesium deficient? Most people are! If you are a person who suffers from stress, depression, muscle spasms, or sore muscles you will feel the benefits of using our Magnesium Detox Gel and Scrub. What is unique about these products is that they contain no synthetic chemicals and are rich in vitamin C for fast absorption. They are specially formulated using the most powerful aromatherapy, herbs, essential oils and essential fatty acids to penetrate deeper into the skin for optimal results.

Organic Rosehip Skincare 1300 552 386 info@rosehipskincare.com | www.rosehipskincare.com

PROMOTIONAL AND MARKETING MATERIAL Rather than discounting, the gift with purchase option and promotional incentives to reward your clients and entice them to purchase from you are by far the better strategy. A good product supplier should be able to provide you with not only good quality-products, but also professionally presented, with good educational support documentation for your clients as well as point of sale posters and promotional material. Together you should be able to

work as a team to meet your sales objectives in a professional and collaborative way.

QUALITY ASSURANCE Quality assurance is about adding value to your business through a reliable and reputable company you choose to introduce into your business. Look also for credible attributes such as quality service as well as courtesy and professionalism throughout your interaction and engagement with them. In that way you can rest assured that they will add value to your business through a trustworthy business association.

JYUNKA M + No Empty Promises

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JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au

APJ 44

Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 20 years’ experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business step-by-step. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves imparting her knowledge to others. She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional client services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success. She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including the Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island and Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems. If you believe that Tess can help you grow your business phone 1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876.

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starperformer ㄰

2013: The year E>O75 Revolutionising the Australian IPL Market

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If you would like to know why the E>O75 IPL device is so popular let us share with you the reasons:

THE PERFECT WIN-WIN IPL DEVICE: High-end, affordable and unlimited warranty on rental offer. Having stormed the consumer market with its affordable at-home IPL device called E-One, France Medical, a Brisbane-based company, is following the same path in the professional arena. For the first time a company has invested in not only permitting therapists access to the latest IPL technology without any initial costly investments or longterm commitment, but also supported them with a strategy to help professionals generate more sales through a large-scale national press marketing campaign and backed by the best service support on the market. France Medical also offers free training and unlimited warranty – 48 hours replacement policy. Our Star Performer is their E>O75 Permanent hair reduction IPL device – ideal for any size beauty professional business. It will increase your service menu and your traffic with the most profitable service available on the market!

ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY: Works on blonde hair and suitable on dark skin phototypes. It is the latest generation of IPL flash controlled technology patented by French manufacturer E-Swin. All their products are Medical CE certified and TGA registered. It can be used on blonde, brown and dark hair and on skin photo type I (fair) to V (dark). It can be used on tanned skins and is more gentle on the skin than any other IPL on the market. Another important feature – it is very easy to use, with a touch screen and an onboard intuitive setting program. ㄰

AFFORDABLE BUSINESS MODEL: No commitment. 㤵 㜵

Rental offers are available from $50 to $90 a week. The rent option offers unbeatable prices and flexible conditions. This offer doesn't bind your salon to a three to four-year contract, but just a three-month contract only! It is a no commitment deal and at the end of these three months if

you are not satisfied with the machine you can simply send it back with no extra fees. This rental offer is available for both the E>O75 hair-removal device as well as the W>O75 collagen-stimulation device.

QUALITY GUARANTEE: Made in France. If you are looking for medical-grade IPL, then these IPL hair-removal devices are the ones. E>O75 is TGA registered and Medical CE certified and definitely works on blonde hair and is suitable for darker skin phototypes. More importantly, E>O75 is manufactured by the French company E-Swin, the world leader in IPL technology devices. This manufacturer is Factory ISO 9001 and ISO 13485 certified for quality guarantee.

RANGE OF OTHER DEVICES E>O75 is the first of a larger range of IPL devices being introduced on the Australian market. France Medical's objective is to bring the latest generation of IPL devices (for hair removal, collagen activation for wrinkles treatment, pigmentation and vascular treatment) at an affordable cost for salons and clinics. And because France Medical is making their pay-asyou-go rental package so affordable, this highquality equipment is now within the reach of every operator.

To find out more about the E>O75, please visit www.programeo.com.au and to find out about France Medical’s full range of devices, visit www.francemedical.com.au. Or call (07) 3151 1543.

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APJ 45


APJ 46


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JOIN WORLD LEADERS in the integration of multiple medical streams to learn groundbreaking advances in evidence-based, best-practice protocols for the early detection, prevention and treatment of obesity, metabolic disorders, related diseases & premature decline. OPTIMISE individual patient outcomes to enhance patient satisfaction and your professional practice, with preventative, integrative and anti-ageing medicine. KEYNOTE SPEAKERS: Dr. Thierry Hertoghe, MD is a fourth generation practising physician and endocrinology specialist. He internationally recognised as a leading specialist in Adult Hormone Deficiencies Therapies. Dr Hertoghe has presented his program to thousands of doctors globally. He is the founding member of the International Hormone Society, President of Eaquall, Assistant Professor at the University of Charleroi, Belgium and President of WOSAAM. Dr Hertoghe supervises the International Anti-Ageing Medical Specialisation that is recognised worldwide for post-graduate physician education in Anti-Ageing Medicine. He also sits on the scientific board of directors of the Anti-Ageing Medicine World Congress and the European Congress of Anti-Ageing Medicine. Dr Hertoghe will present on how Hormones play a critical role in the health of patients and affect every part of our lives, with a focus on Obesity & the Metabolic Syndrome.

Dr. Steven Dayan, MD is a Chicago-based Facial Plastic Surgeon, who is board certified by both the American Board of Facial Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery and the American Board of Otolaryngology (Head and Neck Surgery). He is a clinician, author, frequent lecturer, physician educator and active researcher in emerging cosmetic medicine technologies and techniques. Dr Dayan has published over 70 articles, and as a clinical assistant professor at the University of Illinois, he has trained over 3,500 physicians worldwide and has a practice that sees over 6,500 patients a year. Dr Dayan will present a new approach to Aesthetic Medicine by merging his experiences as an artist, professor of beauty, and surgeon. OTHER CONFERENCE TOPICS WILL INCLUDE: Laboratory Testing & Diagnostics - Biomakers for health and disease - Measurements of metabolic risk - Integrative & functional laboratory testing and interpretation Primary & Secondary Prevention - Primary and secondary preventive treatments - Related disorders such as cancers Aesthetic Medicine - Weight management in aesthetic practice - Skin and ageing - Technological advances - PRP and stem cells - Cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals in skincare

Ageing, Obesity & Metabolism - Obesity, metabolic risk and cognitive decline - Stem cell and regenerative medicine Genomics, Epigenetics & Metabolic Risk - Biochemical pathways, physiological function and genetics of obesity - Genetic variation diagnosis and clinical approach - The latest genomic research Hormone Optimisation - Linking hormone levels and metabolic risk - Comprehensive protocols for positive patient outcomes and safety - Growth hormone - the evidence: what is acceptable and what is not Nutrition, Detoxification & Nutrigenomics - Nutritional lifestyle, chronic and degenerative diseases - Integrating diet, pharmacology, nutraceuticals and genomics Exercise Physiology & Sports Medicine - Fitness and nutrition - Ageing and physical activity Neuroscience of Behaviour Change - Psychological barriers to change Metabolic Risk Factors & Cardiovascular Disease - Diagnostics, risk factors and treatment protocols - Pathways leading to obesity and weight loss

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Visit www.a5m.net for the full conference program and to register. Quote APJ to receive your special rate.

expires 14 July, 2013 All prices quoted are in AUD

APJ 47


starperformer Clinical Skincare Naturaceutical depigmentation treatment exploits the synergistic presence of anti-oxidants, exfoliators, emollients and active ingredients that de-pigment at various cellular levels and cellular mechanisms by using a synergistic complex of substances capable of capturing free radicals, inhibiting their formation or deactivating them.

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Cutaneous hyperpigmentation, or so-called “dark spots”, are a rather widespread problem that affects both men and women, although the latter are more concerned with this issue. Hyperpigmentation manifests itself as blotches of more or less intense brown colour appearing mostly on the backs of hands, face, neckline and on

These blemishes are frequently responsible for significant aesthetic problems to such an extent that they influence the personal lives of those affected by them. Daily use of the De-Pigmentation Crème formulated by ClinicalPro for 20 days must be initiated before commencing any professional treatments for eradicating pigmentation or “age-spots”. Consultation with a precise diagnosis is essential and it is up to the skin therapist, doctor or dermatologist to look for initial causes and where possible, remove them.

INGREDIENTS AND THEIR ACTIONS

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This particular formula of De-Pigmentation Crème contains a synergistic blend of various substances, a physical sunblock and an absorption promoter, which ensure targeted action to prevent the appearance of dark spots, plus slow the process of skin-ageing. This creamy emulsion is highly tolerated by all skins, leaving it protected and glowing with perfume-free sunblock.

Active ingredients include: Hinokitiol: A natural substance that can reduce the production of tyrosinase enzyme and the MITF transcription factor and consequently lessens the synthesis of melanin, with a definite skinlightening effect. The de-pigmentation from Hinokitiol is enhanced by epi-gallochatechin gallate (green tea), with which it develops a synergistic action. Niacinamide: A proven de-pigmentation ingredient inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes rich in melanin from melanocytes to epidermal keratinocytes. Hydantoin derivative: This active has been shown to also inhibit tyrosinase of melanocytes in in-vitro and in-vivo tests by depriving melanocytes of oxygen.
 Boswellic acid: A patented dermo-active complex, containing active ingredients in the resin of Boswellia Serrata has anti-oxidant, protective and anti-ageing properties (protects the functions of elastin and collagen). It is also a skin conditioner that evens out pigmentation by its progressively and uniformly lightening action.

De-Pigmentation Crème from ClinicalPRO more sensitive areas of the body, such as external genitalia, anal and perineal areas. Normally, melanin that accumulates in the horny layer is removed by normal cell migration and exfoliation. Pigmented skin spontaneously returns to its natural colour. However, in many cases, hyperpigmentation can be persistent and of increasing intensity.

Before

After

CONTRIBUTING FACTORS

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Various etiological factors can determine the appearance of skin discoloration. First, the ageing process: melanogenesis of the skin becomes more irregular over time. This is how age-spots appear, especially on the backs of hands and the face. Other causes of melanogenesis alteration can be hormonal changes caused by oral contraceptives, hormone replacement therapy during menopause, and pregnancy (Chloasma gravidarum). Additional conditions associated with discoloration and pigmentation are due to intense and intermittent sun-exposure, allergies from foods or perfumes, scar tissue and post-inflammation (acne, IPL or laser burns, waxing, etc.) and environmental pollution.

Other actives with anti-oxidant and detoxifying properties include: Green tea polyphenols, Grape seed extract, Tetrahydro-curcuminoids, Colourless carotenoids and Ferulic acid.

Substances with exfoliating properties include: Lactic acid, Glycolic acid and Salicylic acid.

Indications: The Clinical Skincare Naturaceutical De-Pigmentation Crème is recommended for any epidermal or dermal-cosmetic treatment of skin-pigment alterations, such as “Melasma” and/or uneven skin discolorations and skin colour. Regular use slows any pigmentation recurrence due to sun-exposure, skin-ageing, hormonal changes, chemical agents and post-inflammatory effects. De-pigmenation Crème is a tested and proven formula for treating face, neck and décolletage as well as hands and sensitive areas of the body. It is non-clogging, paraben-free, perfume-free and recommended for all skin types.

For further information contact ClinicalPRO phone: 07 3350 6898.

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APJ 48


Kessie: One particular experience that was a defining moment for us

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MEM

FILE O R P BER

was a young student who was suffering from acne that affected her confidence and her morale. We worked extensively with her and were able to clear her acne. This made a huge difference to her and she gained so much confidence she became a different person. This was two years ago and from there she went on to pursue a career in retail and is doing extremely well. She is still our client. This experience demonstrated to us both the professional and the rewarding personal satisfaction in solving more challenging skincare concerns. Also experiencing the transformation in such clients is so satisfying, it gives you a sense of purpose and value in what you are achieving. This experience motivated us to take the path to skincare solutions as the primary objective of our business for which we are now recognised.

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APJ Q3: What aspect of your work do you love the best? Kessie: I think it would have to be the opportunity to offer a meaningful contribution to someone's life, help them make positive changes and to gain their respect and trust so that they are comfortable to take on your recommendations, this is a real privilege. It is also great to see them blossom into a more positive and confident person where these changes spill on to the rest of their life to achieve on-going progress and for them to reach their full potential. It is also wonderful to experience a bonding with our clients where it almost feels that you are taking care of friends instead of clients.

Q4. How do you manage to balance professional and private life and how do you relax? Kessie: Maintaining balance in your life is so important. To help

As a community of practice APAN doesn't take its members for granted. As a gesture of appreciation we feature a member in every issue of APJ. Our members are diverse and varied from beauty and aesthetic therapist to nurses, dermal therapists, suppliers, business owners, as well as cosmetic physicians and plastic surgeons. Each individual is valuable and precious to us and we believe they bring their own commitment, passion and expertise to define a dynamic and constantly changing profession known as aesthetic therapies, dermal therapies or cosmetic medicine.

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APJ Q5. What is your favourite product right now and what treatments do you enjoy doing the best? Kessie: I love Indio Queen C Serum, which I use each morning. It

In this issue we present to you Kessie Newman, owner of Satori Skin & Body Management, located in Yeppoon in Queensland.

invigorates my skin and keeps it bright and pigmentation free. My favourite treatment would have to be skin needling. When performed correctly you get such great results in collagen stimulation. We are experiencing great skin tightening and improvement in texture and tone with our clients. It really is a wonderful modality.

APJ Q1: Why did you choose to study aesthetics and when was that? Kessie: For several years I was working in administration as a

APJ Q6. What value do you place on your membership with APAN and how have you benefited from this so far? Kessie: I would have to say that credibility is what we believe APAN

personal assistant and progressively felt restless feeling I should be doing something else. Then a friend of mine pursued study in beauty therapy and was sharing with me how much she was enjoying it. I have always been interested in skin and skincare and progressively I felt that this was the path I should pursue, so as a late bloomer at 30 I switched career paths and studied beauty therapy, graduating with a diploma in 2004. I loved it as a profession and had further ambitions to own my own business.

stands for. They have a great reputation and our clients also appreciate that we are linked to a national independent standards body. APAN also offer great networking opportunities, training discounts and great business support services, discounted insurance and numerous other benefits. We also value staying in touch with the latest in industry development, research and technology. APJ has great articles and quality professional information.

others achieve success you first have to achieve it on a personal level. It is important to make decisions to choose to be happy every day and stay in the moment. There are six of us in the salon and stresses do arise, but one can choose to look on the bright side and maintain a sense of balance about everything. I am also a strong advocate of physical activity for strength and maintaining healthy energy levels. I often go with the girls to boot camp to keep fit and motivated. Time out at the beach with friends is also a wonderful stress relief and an enjoyable experience to clear the head and renew your energy.

Q2. Share with us a success story that has made you feel satisfied about being part of this profession?

Satori Skin & Body Management is located in 33 Hill St, Yeppoon in Queensland Ph: 07 4939 1162.

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APJ 50


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Stepping up a Home-based Salon and Create your own Economy with Quality Treatments, Systems and Marketing

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By Lisa Chelsom Traditionally the home-based business was just a “hobby” business and never really made a true profit, predominantly because it was perceived as a business afterthought by quality clients who were looking for high-end services and advanced treatment results. However, this is all changing as several salons are moving from highrental premises to working from home as a more sustainable business option with less risks and overheads. As a result the home-based business is now evolving into a viable business model and can become a serious contender for the profession beauty therapy market space. However, if it is to rival the salon in commercial premises and survive as a successful business model it has several challenges to overcome – two of the most common are: 1. Meeting with the constant high expectations of highcalibre treatment results that discerning clients are seeking 2. Position their services to be perceived as being part of a true business environment that clients can respect, trust and can be assured to still remain professional at all levels. If you are operating your home-based business just by servicing the basics you may not be able to achieve a serious income, let alone be assured of client loyalty.

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Furthermore, achieving high client traffic is probably unlikely and may, in fact, not be practical on so many levels. Therefore it stands to reason that you should be aiming to achieve a few high-calibre clients that are prepared to spend with you rather than you spending a lot of time with lowincome basic services. As you know rebooking beyond the standard waxing, tinting or facial service is usually once a month or every six weeks. With this level of visits you also stand the risk of losing them in the event that they decide they want something more from their treatments. With all this in mind can the home-based business really

deliver the calibre of services to make serious income and profits? From my experience I believe that if you are running your home-based business as a hobby you can also expect to be in a continual price war with the rest of the beauty industry, which can become a serious threat to your survival. So what is the answer? Having studied, worked and perfected the home-based business model I decided to take it one step further and invest in developing a franchise where I can offer my knowledge, support, skills and expertise to assist these businesses to grow, prosper and reach their full potential. We have developed very specific business and treatment protocols. We can provide you with high-quality training to up-skill you so that you can deliver the high-end treatments and teach you how to gain the right clients who will be prepared to pay for them. Our systems, policies and procedures are designed and tailor-made to be delivered and totally meet the needs of a home-based business. We can teach you how to “Step up your service” and create your own economy in any economy, with the implementation of great systems, marketing and redefining your business model.

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If you are struggling with insufficient clients, why not give us a call and let us show you the strategies of how you can achieve a highly successful and profitable business right in your own home. Contact Lisa Chelsom, founder/ franchisor of Skin Naturelle salons and franchises and CEO of Beauty in a Box coaching Programs. Call Lisa on (07) 3824 6406 or 0434 980 453.3

APJ 51


cosmetictattoo ㄰

Val: Lip definition using colour to outline the lips will give them definition and restore shape and balance. This will immediately give the illusion of fuller lips. The lip line can then be blended with a softer colour to give the illusion of volume. A full lip blend of a softer colour can correct a dull, lifeless lip and give the appearance of permanent natural colour as you would see in a youthful mouth.

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Solving Anti-Ageing Concerns through COSMETIC TATTOOING TECHNIQUES By Val Glover-Hovan Anti-ageing procedures are considered the fastest-growing treatment category in appearance enhancement with the continued upward trend for individuals looking at what they can do to look better or younger for longer. While there are the injectables, IPL/Laser, collagen induction therapy and numerous other modalities that offer answers, one staple modality that can rival most others in the anti-ageing stakes is cosmetic tattooing. With over 27 years’ experience in cosmetic tattooing, Val Glover-Hovan is considered an industry luminary when it comes to cosmetic tattooing. Here she shares with us some interesting information of the role of cosmetic tattooing in achieving notable anti-ageing results.

The cosmetic tattoo practitioner is the artist; she has to create the balance and shape. The colour will last for many years, much longer than fillers, but injectables can contribute to further volume and fullness. In the event of fillers existing in the lips followed by cosmetic tattooing, colour retention may be compromised. However, as so many people having fillers in their lips these days it is important to try and achieve what is best for the client.

BEFORE TREATMENT

APJ 1: In terms of anti-ageing benefits, can a cosmetic tattoo practitioner help minimise lines around the mouth and how can she achieve this? Val: A cosmetic tattoo procedure if done correctly will always be

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anti-ageing, especially on the lips and the vertical lines around the lips. When you define a lip shape, tattoo colour immediately makes the lips look fuller and most times will stimulate the collagen on the edge and in small wrinkles, preventing lipstick bleeding. The deeper vertical line (Smokers Line) can be treated using the same tattoo equipment and needle, concentrating on each wrinkle with a specific tattoo technique. Several treatments six weeks apart are usually necessary to plump the wrinkles. In the Cosmetic Tattoo world we call this multitrepannic collagen actuation (MCA). The success of this procedure using tattooing without pigment was researched by medical experts and due to its success in minimising wrinkles, led to the introduction of dermal rolling and collagen-induction therapy. See the photos on the right showing before, directly after the treatment and after the treated area has settled down .

APJ 2: For the mouth what procedures can produce a younger-looking lip and should it be included before or after a lip-plumping procedure?

DIRECTLY AFTER THE TREATMENT

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AFTER THE TREATED AREA HAS SETTLED DOWN

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From a client education point of view you should recommend that if they have a choice for having cosmetic tattoo and fillers to have the cosmetic tattoo first followed by the injectables, as the cosmetic tattoo will last much longer than the injectables and you need to ensure that it is positioned correctly to complement the natural lips.

APJ 3: In your opinion do you believe that cosmetic tattooing can rival a brow lift and how can this be achieved? Val: Absolutely, cosmetic tattoo procedures are the icing on the cake. Why create scars on a women's face when it isn't necessary? As we grow old everything moves downwards, as do eyebrows, and if there is hair it certainly will be in the wrong place, and in most cases the straggly hair at the end can be removed and a new shape created opening and framing the eyes. It can take years off a woman just by expertly designing and tattooing a more balanced and youthful eyebrow. See photos below of before & after treatment.

BEFORE TREATMENT

AFTER TREATMENT APJ 4: Do you believe that anti-ageing serums such as vitamin C or alpha hydroxy acids contribute to fading of cosmetic tattoo procedures and are there ways that this can be avoided? Val: There has been no study or scientific research done on this, but skincare therapists know what acid-based products are supposed to do for the skin, and from lectures to our industry at the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals in the USA thousands of us have seen that clients using these products have more frequent retouches. It is very difficult to avoid the brows when you apply your serums or creams or even when having facials. Colour in brows must be maintained and retouches are advised approximately18 months to two years to ensure that it maintains an optimal youthful effect. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

APJ 5: Can cosmetic tattooing do anything for acne scarring or loss of pigmentation? Val: Yes we can, but treating scars is an additional skill, and for the advanced cosmetic tattoo practitioner who has been trained in corrective skills they will be able to treat scars and achieve great results. As mentioned earlier with the MCA, we can use this technique to also work on acne scars using a localised tattooing technique without the use of colour. Several treatments are needed, but we can achieve smoother results. Not every scar is suitable for MCA, but this

is something the practitioner would have to evaluate at the time of consultation.

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Re-pigmenting scars can also get reasonably good results. Before tattooing any scar the scar must be white. My advice is to do three treatments of MCA 6-8 weeks apart, followed by exposure to the sun after four days for several days as this can also help stimulate the melanocytes to natural restore colour back to the scar area. I usually follow this procedure before introducing any camouflage colours into the scar. Often with just three treatments the size of the discolouration in the scar can be reduced considerably, because around the inner edge of the scar the colour has been stimulated naturally. Cosmetic tattooing procedures also offer further excellent results in flattening scars.

APJ 6: We recently read a report from the US that some cosmetic tattoo pigments have contributed to allergies and do you know anything about that and how can one make sure that they can avoid such situations? Val: When you think of the millions and millions of people having cosmetic tattoo procedures and body art these days, the percentage of reactions is so very little. There was a company in the USA who did have a problem about eight years ago with some of their pigments, but the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) requested changes with the use of certain colour powders and various changes had to be made with every manufacture. With a patch test you will know if a person has an allergic reaction within the first seven days. There have been cases where a person has had a reaction after 6 or 10 years later, so what good is a patch test there? Some manufacturers note on their bottles that a patch test is required, but if the client doesn't wish to have one a waiver signature is required. This is where client's medical history and consent forms are important. There will always be people who may react to certain colours as they would in say food, makeup or hair colours. I believe that sometimes this may occur as our bodies change with time. For example, I have been eating garlic all my life with no problems, then about 10 years ago I started to get really sick with certain foods I ate. It took a while to work out what was causing it, it was garlic. Something had changed in my body and I could no longer tolerate garlic. However, having dealt with over 30,000 clients over the years these allergies are a very rare occurrence.

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Cosmetic Tattoo Australia Val Glover-Hovan – Cosmetic Tattoo Specialist & Educator P: (02) 9938 2111 | E: info@cosmetictattooaustralia.com W: www.cosmetictattooaustralia.com

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newapaninitiative ESTHETICS A A

CELLENC EX E

OGRAM PR

AEP

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A PA N

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AESTHETIC EXCELLENCE PROGRAM (AEP) Business and Professional Study Units

DESIGNED FOR THE BUSY PROFESSIONALS You can select the unit of your choice and study it at your convenience. You can use it as background information and if you complete the exam at the end and submit it for marking you can qualify for a Certificate of Completion from APAN.

Education is the bedrock of social and economic development, and true professionals know the value of investing in life-long learning. Indeed, education broadens our horizon and allows us to see beyond what was once impossible. It is the most powerful weapon that can change our world. With on-going new scientific discoveries knowledge is doubling at a rapid pace. We now have some amazing information on how we can slow the ageing process that we did not know two or three years ago. While you are busy practising your profession are you finding that some of your information is becoming outdated, leaving you without the right answers? Would you like to bring your knowledge up to date through on-line professional development units?

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Education comes in many forms, and while your supplier can offer you valuable knowledge, it is also important that you continue your professional development through commercially unbiased generic education. This is the mark of a true professional, and without a serious commitment to updating your knowledge, others who do may soon bypass you. While formal education and advancing your qualifications is the ultimate it is not always possible. This is why we are delighted to announce the launch of the AESTHETIC EXCELLENCE PROGRAM – a collection of business and professional development study units that professionals can enrol to complete and grow their skills and knowledge.

Our aim is to develop a Study Portal where therapists and business owners can go to access valuable information and improve their skills and currency of knowledge to support their career and business goals. While these units will not give you formal qualifications as such, they will substantially increase your confidence and empower you with accurate information that will position you in a better place to move forward with greater confidence. As of April these units will be launched on the APAN website so that you can access them at your convenience and undertake them at your own pace. While we will start with a few units, new ones will be added on a regular basis as our intention is to establish a comprehensive collection of subjects to meet your professional development needs. These units will be written by experts and will cover numerous topics, including skincare ingredients, anti-ageing principles, equipment technology, skin science, human biology, business and personal development, just to name a few. These units will offer you credible and powerful information to grow your knowledge and confidence so that you can pursue your direction with greater ease and success. Ultimately the Aesthetic Excellence Program will be submitted to APAN's National Advisory Council for assessment as Continuing Educational Points and further on recognition of prior learning towards formal qualifications.

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Please visit www.apanetwork.com for further detalsils.

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“Science and Qi

3

unite to connect Beauty and Health”

Steps to

Qi

The new dimension in beauty therapy culture is driven by Women demanding beauty therapy integrated with therapeutic skin treatments. Qi beauty modality represents the first opportunity for practitioners to integrate beauty skills with the Eastern philosophies of TCM, with clinically proven Facial Treatments performed by Qualified Therapists. Luxurious, needle-free and guaranteeing results, therapists are now able to offer Qi, the foundation for beautiful skin, alongside Microdermabrasion, thread lifts, Botox, IPL, Laser treatments and dermal fillers to satisfy the demand for a strong beauty / wellbeing alliance.

Practitioner Testimonials Integrating a new modality into an existing beauty clinic or medi-spa instantly attracts new clientele. Qi beauty is a treatment that is suited to all people of all ages, skin conditions and positively affects skin regardless of treatment history or previous damage. Introducing Qi into anti-ageing rituals is the foundation for rendering skin alive to restore health to improve appearance. The Qi beauty treatments have been designed to integrate seamlessly into existing Beauty Clinics, Spas and Medi-Spas, compatible with both surgical and non surgical anti-ageing treatments from softening facial lines to assisting the recovery of skin after cosmetic procedures. Qi beauty guarantees results for Women seeking a non-surgical, non-invasive anti-ageing plan or who wish to integrate beauty with health. Practitioner training available for one-toone or in-house options.

Training Enquiries: 1300658804

sales@qibeauty.com.au

The Qi beauty facial Treatment featured in APJ, reconnects the energy skin needs for health, wellbeing and vitality.

3 Steps to Qi

“I have been a cosmetic acupuncturist for several years now and love and enjoy the holistic, natural approach to anti-ageing. When I discovered Qi beauty it was a great new treatment I could use in my clinic for the clients who were adverse to needles but also in conjunction to my cosmetic acupuncture treatments. It’s also great as a change in their treatment routine and clients really notice instant changes.” - Eli Huang, Sydney. Acupuncturist, Qi beauty Practitioner

“Improvement in various skin conditions, lines and wrinkles and clients looking younger and healthier was very apparent from just one session, like nothing else I had ever seen, leaving me feeling confident to start immediately after the Practitioner Training with Kathy Pedersen. A year and a half later, over half my business comes from Qi beauty treatments, and the results and feedback from happy clients continues to be amazing. I am so glad to be a part of the Qi beauty family, personally for myself, for my clients and the growth of my business “ -Rebecca Haas, Owner “Qi Radiance’ Perth, WA. Acupuncturist, Naturopath. Qi beauty practitioner

‘The changing face of beauty is to recognise the benefits of post-treatment recov- 1. Be guided by clinically tested protools for needle-free anti-ageing usery to ensure the health and wellbeing of ing skin pH compatible micro-magnets to deliver results and reduce the skin’ signs of ageing by working on skin up to 6mm below the surface. Women are concerned with how their skin will look and feel to them on a personal level, meaning the texture, tone and luminosity of their skin. In TCM language this is referred to as Qi or “life force” and indicates a vital, bright, alive complexion. Women want beautiful skin that is full of vitality and glowing from within. This is Qi and it is a direct response to the health and strength of skin.

2. Create multiple Static Magnetic Fields around the face. The use of

Qi-protocols of pools, reservoirs, bridges and chains ignite the naturally occurring compounds deep within the skin. Encourage upward movement to improve skin condition, appearance and reduce Qi deficiencies of lines, wrinkles, uneven facial features, pigmentation, scarring, loss of volume and premature ageing.

3. Remove the Facial Matrix to reveal a bright complexion and increased volume. Skin appears full, firm and filled with vitality as the natural compounds are energizing skin with a youthful golden glow that lasts.


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Achieve Incredible skin results with

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Created By Nature Perfected By Science Harnessing the best of nature and perfected by the latest scientific technologies, Mila D'Opiz is the definitive product range for serious skincare professionals who only want the best.

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70 years' experience with proven results Professional Brand reputation International ISO quality assurance 8 Specialty lines because your client is an individual Cutting-edge advanced ingredients the latest peptides, antioxidants, nutriceuticals, plant hormones and stem cells Formulated to perform and presented with excellence Tested and proven for results Treatment-strength products Comprehensive retail range for face and body Excellent marketing support

Let MILA D'OPIZ show you the way to success.

For further details phone 1300 464 523, Email info@boutiquemonique.com.au www.boutiquemonique.com.au.


Run by Beauty Professionals for Beauty Professionals Having experienced the frustration of finding the right staff, two dynamic beauty therapists, Debbie Caruso and Katrina Sheary from Victoria, decided to do something about it and so Beauty Recruiters was established as their brainchild. Debbie has 25 years’ experience in the industry running her own salons and Katrina, 10 years. Together, they decided to look into providing a workable solution that was tailor-made specifically for the beauty industry. “One of the most frustrating thing for a salon or spa owner is when a staff member phones in the morning to say that she is sick and cannot come in that day. Appointments have to be rearranged or cancelled and this can be very disruptive, not to mention inconvenient for the client and money lost for the salon,” Debbie said. It is these and other frustrations that the girls had in mind when they designed the services that Beauty Recruiters would provide.

Having worked with recruitment agencies in the past they found them too expensive and with a lack of understanding of the needs of the beauty industry. Primarily created to help beauty salons with staff shortages, covering sick days, annual leave or busy times of the year, Beauty Recruiters are considered the specialists in beauty temp staffing solutions. However, they have extended their services to screening also part-time and fulltime staff, as well as helping therapists who wish to refine their skills and apply for that perfect job fit.

FOR THE SALON OWNER: We source online qualified, professional staff on a permanent or temporary basis. When you need temporary staff fast we have done the hard work for you. We also provide a service to certify the qualifications of the candidates because we screen the capabilities of our candidates in a professional salon environment. Our motto is “If we wouldn't hire them for our salon, we won't send them to you either.” You will also find that our fees are very reasonable and realistic for our industry.

FOR THE BEAUTY PRACTITIONER: We provide you with the tool to be able to find your dream job. We also provide specialised training and refresher training for therapists who wish to upgrade their skills.

WHAT ARE YOUR SKILLS? Run by Beauty Professionals for Beauty Professionals Need beauty staff ASAP? Looking for someone new and efficient? Can’t find someone mature and experienced? With Beauty Recruiters you can grow your staff, as you grow your business.

We specialise in beauty temp staffing solutions. We help business salons with staff shortages, covering sick days, annual leave or busy times of the year. We interview face-to-face, personality screen, skills test and reference check. Talk to us today and let us help you find your dream staff easier. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Looking for your dream job? We bring over 35 years’ experience to our services. We are qualified therapists and have experience in running successful salons. We understand and know how to match your skills and personality to your perfect job. Beauty Recruiters can also refresh your training or up-grade your current skills to help you land your perfect job.

Contact 1300 802 656 | info@beautyrecruiters.com.au today to tell us about yourself and arrange an interview

Whether you are qualified and experienced in waxing, makeup, microderabrasion, facials, oxygen therapy, massage, body peels or even IPL, we can help you land your dream temp placement or permanent position.

THE BEAUTY RECRUITERS' DIFFERENCE All our candidates are:

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Interviewed face-to-face Personally screened Skills tested in a professional beauty salon environment Reference checked

ABOUT US Beauty Recruiters attracts the best talent for your business by taking a personal hands-on approach to their recruitment process. With over 35 years’ combined experience they deliver efficient and effective temp staffing solutions for your business. Whatever your staffing needs Beauty Recruiters have the perfect fit for you.

For further details contact Beauty Recruiters on 1300 802 656 | info@beautyrecruiters.com.au or visit their website www.beautyrecruiters.com.au

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Introducing two new APAN MEMBERSHIP CLASSIFICATIONS When it comes to Membership APAN recognises that not everyone is the same. As the aesthetics industry is becoming more specialised it is a fact that different professionals have different needs.

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CORPORATE PLATINUM (Medical) For healthcare practitioners and doctors Medical aesthetics requires a very different mindset to a medical practice. Several doctors and plastic surgeons have joined APAN not only for the member business benefits, but also for industry specific support that is offered in helping their transition into an aesthetic medical practice. These include, but not limited to, developing a culture, staff recruitment, industrial relations, policies and procedures for the practice of aesthetic modalities, as well as appropriate legal advice when needed.

GOLD (Degree Qualification) Nurses, Dermal Therapists and other This category aims at supporting and providing not only the general benefits of APAN membership, but also the specific needs of this classification of membership through a voice with government during wage award reviews and professional development. APAN also provides professional consultation and specific business recommendations that are unique to the employment and professional development of this sector.

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CTI PRA TION

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The Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) invites you to join them as a member and gain the support and representation you need to achieve success in your practice and business.

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Contact APAN today for further details or download an Application Form Phone: 07 55930360 | Email: info@apanetwork.com | website www.apanetwork.com


keyingredient ㄰

B good to your skin

By Fiona Tuck – Managing Director Skinstitut (www.skinstitut.com)

The virtues of vitamins A and C for the skin are well known, but what about vitamin B? New research is bringing to light some interesting information on this water-soluble vitamin and its benefits in supporting skin health and helping to address various skin disorders. In this article Fiona Tuck explains why vitamin B is so important for the skin. With so much publicity in the media on the importance of antioxidants such as vitamins A, C, E for skin health, the humble vitamin B tends to get overlooked. Vitamin B is not only essential for general health and wellbeing, it is essential for a healthy skin. The B-group vitamins are a collection of eight vitamins essential for various metabolic processes within the human body. Most of the B vitamins cannot be stored by the body and have to be consumed regularly in the diet. Food processing, extended cooking times, stress and alcohol can destroy or reduce the availability of many of these vitamins, the skin being one of the first organs to show signs of deficiency. Redness, scaliness, irritation, dermatitis and pigmentation can all be signs of a skin in need of vitamin B. From the B vitamin family, one particular vitamin, vitamin B3, is being heralded as a skincare hero ingredient. Vitamin B is currently being researched for its uses in clinical dermatology with positive findings. It is proving beneficial in treating a variety of skin conditions. Let's look at why.

HOW Vitamin B3 BENEFITS THE SKIN Niacin or vitamin B3 is a type of B vitamin. It is water-soluble, which means it is not stored in the body and leftover amounts of the vitamin leave the body through the urine. That means you need a continuous

supply of such vitamins in your diet. Niacin helps the digestive system, skin and nerves to function. It is also important for converting food to energy.

Niacin (also known as vitamin B3) is found in the following food sources: Dairy products, eggs, enriched breads and cereals, fish, lean meats, legumes, nuts and poultry.

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For many years, doses of 1-3 grams of nicotinic acid per day have been a treatment option for low HDL cholesterol and high LDL cholesterol and triglyceride levels and blood pressure.

Large doses of niacin can cause: Increased blood sugar (glucose) levels, liver damage, peptic ulcers and skin rashes. It is important not to self-diagnose a vitamin deficiency because some vitamins can be toxic if taken incorrectly. See your doctor or healthcare professional for advice. Even normal doses can be associated with skin flushing. In the form of nicotinic acid this side-effect is reduced, however, niacinamide also known as nicotinamide, is the form most safely used in skincare preparations. Nicotinamide does not cause these side-effects of skin flushing and is therefore the form of vitamin B3 commonly used in skincare preparations. The name niacin specifically refers to nicotinic acid, but it also is used to collectively describe two chemical structures – nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide). Niacinamide/nicotinamide has been found to be extremely beneficial in treating a variety of common skin

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conditions such as hyper-pigmentation, ageing skin and acne when applied topically to the skin.

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Nicotinamide, the amide form of vitamin B3, is used for a variety of dermatological applications with little or no toxicity even at high doses. Nicotinamide has photoprotective effects against carcinogenesis and immune suppression in mice, and is photoimmuno-protective in humans when used as a lotion or orally. UV radiation depletes keratinocytes of cellular energy and nicotinamide, which is a precursor of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD), may act, at least in part, by providing energy repletion to irradiated cells. Nicotinamide is therefore being introduced into many skincare serums and sunscreens for increased skin cell nourishment and protection.

NADH and NADPH are two important enzymes that contribute to the production of cellular energy and lipids (responsible for cell health). With a sufficient supply of both enzymes, the skin creates an effective barrier to external factors that influence the ageing process. However, the levels of both NADH and NADPH decline as we grow older, resulting in an impaired barrier function of the skin. This can lead to increased sensitivity, trans-epidermal water loss and premature ageing. When applied topically, vitamin B3 assists with the reduction of their rate of decline and therefore assists with strengthening the natural barrier function of the skin. Because topical application of vitamin B3 can help preserve levels of NADH and NADPH, it contributes to the support of the skin's barrier against pollutants and other irritants. As a result, many skin conditions, such as acne, redness associated with rosacea, and other inflammatory signs, can be actively managed. Also, vitamin B3 has shown to be useful for encouraging the production of natural emollients that can help the skin remain hydrated.

Vitamin B3 may assist with treating and improving the following skin conditions: Rosacea, acne, eczema, dermatitis, sun-damaged, dry, ageing skin and hyperpigmentation. Clinical studies have shown these skin conditions may be treated at a therapeutic threshold of between 0.5-4% nicatinamide, with most companies opting for an inclusion of around 2%. This is due to a combination of factors, including price, irritation potential and the metabolism of the skin. While nicatinamide is not a potential skin irritant, if it is not formulated in a stable form, delivery system and optimal pH, it can break down and convert to nicotinic acid, which has the potential to create skin flushing and more irritation. Having a good delivery system is the key to a great result. Loading actives or high percentages into a dud base is likely to have no effect other than being potentially irritating, therefore choosing quality formulations with advanced delivery systems is essential to ensure product and ingredient efficacy.

EDITOR'S NOTE: NADH stands for nicotinamide adenine ㄰ 㤵 㜵

dinucleotide, which is an activated form of B vitamin niacin. NADPH stands for nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate. NADP+ is a carrier molecule (which is a compound that can accept a pair of high-energy electrons and transfer them along with most of their energy to another molecule). When NADP+ picks up 2 highenergy electrons along with a hydrogen ion, NADP+ is converted to NADPH. This conversion is one way of which some of the energy of sunlight can be trapped in chemical form. The NADPH can carry high-energy electrons produced by light absorption in the chlorophyll to chemical reactions elsewhere in the cell. The electrons are used to build molecules that are needed such as glucose.

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specialisedtreatments ㄰

Facial AcuPoint Massage (VE Technique) A powerful new tool for Corrective Skin Therapy and anti-ageing results If you are interested in improving your skin therapy results look no further than this article. Vera Emmi is a highly qualified professional in a number of modalities with extensive industry experience and an incredible reputation for results that saw many of her client travel hundreds of kilometres to access her services. We recently caught up with Vera and interviewed her about her interesting professional journey and to learn more about her unique training methods that she now offers other skincare and dermal therapists. Vera will also be presenting a lecture at the Australian Aesthetics Conference in Sydney on Monday 26th August (see page 25 for further details).

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APJ 1: Vera, tell us a little about your professional background. When and how did you get involved in qualifying in Beauty Therapy? Vera: I first commenced in the Beauty industry in 1988 after spending 11 years in finance and lending. I initially trained as a Professional Colour and Image Consultant and Make-up Artist. From there I underwent my nail technician training, including masters, Beauty Therapy, Electrolysis and Cosmetic Tattooing. I was a National Trainer for Natural Compatibles for many years before entering into my own salon full time. I was heavily involved in teaching make-up both in my clinic and at TAFE, as well as the training I did for Natural Compatibles.

After completing my Diploma of Beauty Therapy and working in the industry for some time, I discovered that I was a “results oriented” skin therapist and not a 'pampering' therapist, hence in 1997 I began my journey into corrective skin therapy, including microdermabrasion, peels of all types and strengths, various machinery and re-building/rejuvenation treatments, leaving the 'pampering' to my staff. In 2000 I qualified as a Paramedical Dermal Technician. In 2002 I opened my second clinic one hour away from my existing salon, engaging in 90% corrective skin treatments and healthcare reflexology, acupressure, herbal medicine and supplementations. I sold my beauty salon at the end of 2003 and this enabled me to concentrate on my clinic and pursue my passion to further my knowledge, incorporating healthcare modalities such as reflexology and nutrition with skincare, as I discovered this was the way to achieving real and long-term results for my clients. That led me down a different and diverse path.

APJ 2: For as long as I remember you have always been passionate about education and in particular any training that would allow you to better understand skin disorders and how to achieve real results. How did this come about and how has it influenced your professional direction? Vera: I'm the type of person that needs/wants to know 'why' and 'how' things work, and I have the belief that if I'm going to do something,

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then I will do it to the best of my knowledge and ability. It began with wanting to learn as much as I could from suppliers, seminars, further study, workshops, trade shows, books and my own research, including all I could learn about ingredients and skin biology. Everything that I attended was great and it gave me so much more of an understanding of the skin, adding and building to my knowledge base, but it still didn't give me the 'why' that I was looking for – I still needed to know more and find the underlying cause. I would say to myself “I've done X amount of treatments on my client, and not totally satisfied with the results achieved so far. I know I have used the correct procedure and products for this particular condition, so why have I only achieved X result?” I had a very extensive Skin Analysis and History form, and started to see patterns from one client to another – no matter whether it was Acne, Pigmentation, Eczema, Congestion or Wrinkles. I knew there had to be an underlying reason – beyond the skin itself. That led me to look deeper into how I could achieve real results. In the meantime I had become interested in Foot Reflexology, and after completing an introductory course I proceeded to complete my Reflexology Practitioner training. In the course of my studies I also studied Meridian Therapy, which is based on the 14 main meridians relative to Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). After incorporating reflexology and TCM along with talking to clients about their diets and nutrition that was when I started to get my answers to ‘why’ and 'how'. I worked with this knowledge and along with my existing skin therapy knowledge, my professional direction began to change and so did my results. I had discovered the ‘why’ I was looking for and hence my journey to delivering real and permanent results began.

APJ 3: What modalities and studies have you undertaken to improve your results? Vera: I have studied many different modalities to assist me improve

results with skin therapy. I went on to complete different forms of Reflexology and also upgraded to the current Diploma of Reflexology. I studied Cranio-Sacral Reflexology, Face Reflexology, Auricular Therapy (ears), Acupressure and Chinese Pathology, to mention just a few. I'm also a Lymphatic Therapist, which is fantastic for any skin condition. I also completed a Cert IV in Allied Health Assistance – Occupational Therapy and Nutrition and Dietetics to enhance my existing knowledge and give me a broader spectrum of knowledge. Over the past 15 years I have attended many Nutrition and Complementary Health-based courses, workshops and seminars, all which assisted me to better understand the effects of organs and gland function relative to diseases, disorders and general health. Diet, nutrients, lifestyle habits and thoughts are important to the health of our organs and glands, and this in turn makes a difference to achieving results with our skin treatments. I also use Hair Tissue Mineral Analysis to assist finding any underlying nutritional imbalances if need be. I also attend Herbal Medicine seminars as I also incorporate herbal formulations to assist with results if required. A holistic approach is required in order to achieve long-lasting and real results.

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I read the feet, body, hands, ears and face and I use that analysis to determine the cause of every skin ailment. For example – depending on where wrinkles are situated will tell me which organ or gland it relates to – liver, spleen, pancreas, stomach, adrenals, etc. It's truly amazing what ailments can be picked up. I use that knowledge to ascertain the cause of acne or congestion. It depends on where the breakouts are situated as to which organ or gland it relates to. It could be small intestine, large intestine, liver, adrenals, or other. It is also the case with pigmentation – it depends on the colour and position of the pigmentation as to which organ, gland or combination is not functioning properly or where imbalances lie within the body. With that information, I then proceed to recommend products and treatments (based on the appropriate ingredients) and herbal formulations and any necessary diet/lifestyle changes. I then work on

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the relative organs and glands using foot reflexology/auricular therapy and Facial AcuPoints to activate change within. This gives longer-lasting or permanent results – finding the cause and understanding how the body works is the secret to achieving results, hence the name of my current business is Healthy Body Healthy Skin.

APJ 4: Most people relate reflexology to working on the feet. How does this discipline work when used on the face and why? Vera: Working on the feet and working on the face is similar

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in some ways and very different in others. This probably sounds confusing, however, it depends on what the condition is as to which is more applicable. I will often use both if I'm addressing a particular condition such as acne, pigmentation, lines/wrinkles, capillaries, psoriases and rosacea, making it doubly effective. There are a few different types of ways of working on the face. In the Facial AcuPoint Massage (VE Technique), which I formulated some years ago, I've incorporated points and techniques to assist with muscle firming and lymphatic drainage as well as working on organs and glands that are the 'cause' of various ailments and skin conditions. Working on the face also improves blood circulation, helps release tension, improves skin texture and helps disperse impurities deep within the pores of the skin. As it was something that I formulated, it was important for me to develop it in such a way to enhance the results I could achieve with my own skin-therapy clients. Regular treatments firm and tone the muscles of the face, neck and give a natural nonsurgical facelift. The bonus is that while it is working on your skin – it's actually working on your whole being too!

For those not familiar with reflexology – reflexology is the application of pressure using thumb and fingers on reflex points in the feet, hands, ears and face to stimulate a physiological change in the body. A skilled and experienced Reflexologist will be able to feel and see where the imbalances are and work to balance and normalise not just the corresponding organ itself, but also all functional relationships of that organ. To give you an example, the liver has 500 functions, therefore the physical, emotional and mental conditions that are improved are unlimited. The liver is one organ that is greatly involved in many skin conditions. By working on the imbalances the improved circulation transports nutrients throughout the body and removes waste products that interfere with normal healthy body function. By working the face, this assists with acne, pigmentation and lines/wrinkles (to name some). It is because of this that results can be achieved. Naturally it's important to know which reflexes to work on. A foot massage doesn't deliver the results that a Foot Reflexology treatment gives, and a face massage is not the same as the results achieved with the Facial AcuPoint Massage. While both a face massage and foot massage stimulate blood flow, which can assist with skin conditions, working on a deeper level, the 'cause', the results are far more effective, corrective and long lasting.

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APJ 64


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APJ 5: How do you define "holistic" when it comes to skin therapy and wellness in terms of approach and outcomes? Vera: “Holistic” to me means the physical, emotional, mental and spiritual being – the 'whole of the person'. It all needs to be taken into account to achieve results. For me, Spiritual refers to your beliefs, ethics and how you view the world and situations; your attitude towards things and everyday living, your purpose in life, being at peace with yourself and others. That has a domino effect as it affects your mental attitude and your emotions, and this in turn affects your physical being and your health. Holistic to me also means diet, lifestyle and your thought pattern. As far as skin therapy is concerned it's 'all of the above'. When I analyse the skin I still look at texture, colour and secretion, but probably different to how others may see it. For example, when I see glycation, as welI as analysing it as a skin therapist would for this condition, I also see digestive system function, endocrine system, diet and fluids. When I assess acne, I look at where the acne is positioned, whether it's inflamed, and relate it to organ and gland function – liver, adrenals, pancreas, thyroid, pituitary and other hormone-producing glands and organs, as well as digestive function, spleen, heat, inflammation and immunity. Then I address it with the appropriate skin treatments, homecare products, dietary changes, fluid intake, supplements, reflexology and facial acuPoints. With lines and wrinkles, I assess where they are and relate it to the underlying organ or gland – it could be pancreas, stomach, liver, adrenals, lungs, etc, before addressing it with appropriate skin treatments, homecare, healthcare treatments, diet, and any other lifestyle changes required to effect change and achieve the results the client desires. When you address the “cause” you will always achieve real and more permanent results. It's also just as important to consider other factors that may be causing the condition, such as emotional issues, blood sugar level imbalances, stress, and refer your client to a healthcare professional or medical doctor if it is out of your scope of practice.

APJ 6: You are currently involved in training. What is the most exciting training that you are currently offering and who can benefit from it? Vera: Yes, I have spent the past five years formulating various workshops and short courses. The Facial AcuPoint Massage (VE Technique) is one of the many training courses that I offer. Being that I am involved in the Skin Care industry, Natural Therapy industry and Allied Health there is a large range of people who can benefit. Of course the greatest benefit is to the client, and happy clients refer other clients to your business, so it's a win-win for all. There are also many points in the routine that everyone can use on themselves or you could show your clients a few that they could use at home. I use many of the face points regularly on myself as they assist in promoting circulation, mental clarity and assist with skin firming and general wellbeing.

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The Facial AcuPoint Massage (VE Technique) is a 'Holistic' therapy because of its benefits at a physical, mental and emotional level, at the same time giving visible results. It is suitable for a diverse range of therapists and practitioners – Beauty Therapists, Complementary Therapists, Dermal Therapists, Reflexologists, Remedial Therapists, Aroma-therapists, Nurses, Allied Health industry. The Facial AcuPoint Massage (VE Technique) incorporates specific points on the chest, shoulders, neck, face and head. These areas are also a rich source of muscle, nerves, blood vessels and lymph nodes, making this a very effective treatment all round. It can be adjusted to cater for different uses. Some of these points are unknowingly being used today by Physiotherapists who perform dry needling, Remedial therapists who perform Trigger Point massage and Acupuncturists.

Discover the 'cause' to various skin conditions and achieve the results your clients deserve

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Get results with your clients’ skin conditions by treating the underlying cause with the 3-Day “Foot Reflexology for Skin Therapy” course. Especially formulated by a Paramedical Dermal Te c h n i c i a n a n d Reflexologist.

Natural Anti-ageing, Skin Firming and Wellbeing – this 2-Day Facial AcuPoint Massage (VE Technique) will help you achieve this. Learn about the Chinese Meridians along with how to read what the skin is really saying. Both courses formulated and presented by Vera Emmi – multiaward-winning Skin Therapist, Paramedical Dermal Technician, Professional Reflexologist and Healthcare Practitioner. Contact Vera @ Healthy Body Healthy Skin hbhs08@hotmail.com for information. Courses available in most areas and may be conducted at your workplace in some cases (min nos. & area apply). I have also written a three-day Foot Reflexology for Skin Therapy course especially designed for the Beauty/Skin/Aesthetic Industry. This workshop covers skin conditions such as Acne, Pigmentation, Wrinkles, Psoriasis, Age spots, Eczema and Rosacea. In this workshop I teach which organs and glands to work on to assist with the individual skin problems. It also incorporates relative information on Face Reading. Basic foot reflexology techniques are also included. Both workshops have a theory and practical component and are very different from each other. I also offer other workshops that are more relevant to Reflexologists, Bowen therapists and Massage therapists.

Some of Vera Emmi's qualifications include: Dip BTh, Paramedical Dermal Technician with numerous Post Graduate Certificates; Dip. Reflexology with numerous Post Graduate Certificates; Cert IV Training and Assessment (TAA & TAE); Cert IV Business; Cert IV AHA – Occupational Therapy and Nutrition and Dietetics. Vera has established and managed three very successful Healthcare and Skincare businesses, taking out 14 Industry, Holistic Medicine and Customer Service Awards at a local, State and national level. She is a certified trainer with 30 years’ experience. Vera has conducted workshops and short courses for many years to Beauty Therapists, Industry Educators, Remedial Massage Therapists, Reflexologists and Bowen Therapists, as well as Self-Interest 1-2 day workshops to the public, both privately and at TAFE throughout Australia. If you would like more information regarding Vera's courses/workshops, please contact her on hbhs08@hotmail.com The 2-day Facial AcuPoint Massage (VE Technique) course and the 3-day Foot Reflexology for Skin Therapy may also be able to be conducted at your workplace (min numbers apply and depending on area).

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APJ 65


businessstrategies ㄰

The 3-Step Foolproof Plan to

Doubling Your Profits By Dan Buzer – Director of Profit Mechanics Dan Buzer is a highly skilled and successful business consultant and coach. He has developed his own unique systems and tools that have assisted numerous businesses achieve phenomenal profitability and growth in a short period of time. His proven track record of business success has gained him the reputation as the “profit mechanic”. In this article he shares with us his three steps to doubling your profits. To hear Dan speak, book to attend the Australian Aesthetics Conference in Sydney on Monday 26th August. Have you ever stumbled across a business owner that just seems to have the Midas touch when it comes to business success? What is it that these rare, relaxed and often life-balanced people know that many other business owners seem to be missing? The answer is they have a process that gets the results that we all intended on getting when we first started our business.

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Building a profitable business is a skill that can be learnt and applied to any practice or salon. Once you understand the process and strategies that lead to making more profit then the possibilities are endless. A good business consultant or business coach will ask for information to work out how much profit your business is making, because this is one of the key objectives that any business requires to survive. With training, understanding and some tools as simple as a spreadsheet, you can start measuring the performance of areas in your business and clearly see the results on your bottom line and in your bank account! The amount of profit in your business is directly linked to you taking the right steps in the right direction. But what are the right steps? What is the 'right' direction? Some businesses just go around in circles! Without a clear road map it's easy to become stagnant and lose sight of where you are going.

The key is consistent application of the basic steps that compound into bigger results. Successful business owners integrate these actions into the daily running of their business. Where does your business get its business growth, knowledge and consistent accountability? This is where the right business consultant or business coach can fit into your team to optimise the outcome you are looking for. Here are some interesting perspectives to consider:

Question: Why is it that we take our car in for regular tune-ups, but rarely consider putting our business through an objective review on its performance? Perhaps because for a car it is much easier. A simple sticker in the corner of the windscreen gives us a date or a mileage reading to indicate when the car is due for maintenance. This is an obvious and easy to understand indicator and we know that avoiding the small inconvenience of a check-up by a mechanic will at some point lead to the car performing poorly, becoming unsafe or even break down completely! The challenge with most businesses is the indicators aren't so obvious.

WHAT ARE THE PROFIT INDICATORS OF YOUR BUSINESS? There are three components of business that form the base to its profitability. Successful business owners monitor and nurture these religiously. Every activity within a business can be linked to an easy to read 'Dashboard'. Sometimes activities are neglected or considered 'not as important' as others and this often has a compounding effect and reduces potential profitability for the business. The key is to learn how to measure and identify how each area is performing (and to have them identified with facts, not opinions). Learn the mantra … “What we measure we manage and what we manage improves”.

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APJ 66


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PROFIT SECRET NO. 1 Control your expenses, but understand that the profit is in increasing your income! Learning how to price packages correctly and guide your clients on a long-term relationship by introducing them effectively to the value of your products and services – that is the name of the game. Investing some time to educate your prospects and clientele will help you build trust, rapport and most importantly a 'professional relationship'. A relationship of trust will help you charge what you deserve to get paid.

The power of being clear on designing your business to cater for a specific type of person with specific needs and wants is you can then take a step back and identify where those people are, what they do and how they prefer to do it. Strategic alliances and joint ventures are powerful tools (when done well) and sometimes can be the only marketing strategy a business requires to achieve a consistent stream of ideal prospects. The secret is in the quality of the clients, not necessarily the quantity.

PROFIT SECRET NO. 2 Your biggest business asset is its relationship with your database! Interestingly, every business has two types of databases. These are the 'Prospect' and the 'Client' database. Each is communicated with and managed differently. The prospect database is a list that can be divided into Prospects Unqualified (PUQ), Prospects Short Term (PST), Prospects Long Term (PLT) and Prospects to Delete (DEL). The key to generating a flow of business is having systematic processes that attract ideal Prospects Unqualified and converting them into Prospects Short Term and then into Clients. The Client database can be divided into A, B, C & D (as a starting point). Most Clients start off as Bs. The goal is to educate these people at the beginning of the relationship so they understand the benefits they can gain by being a client of your practice. You know you're attracting the right people and educating them successfully when your 'A' list database is consistently growing. ㄰

Here is a diagram that shows what this looks like: 㤵

PROFIT SECRET 3:

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Here are the three keys to remember: 1. Learn how to communicate to your prospects and clients your unique way of giving them the results they want in a way that they can recognise them. The more effectively you communicate this message, the further you can increase your prices. 2. Remove perceived risks (or even 'reverse' perceived risks) from using your products and services. This could be anything that would make the client say “no” to your offer. “Can't afford it” (make provision for progressive payments) or perhaps it is “haven't got the time”, consider the time restriction and design something specifically with their needs and timeframe in mind. 3. Manage your database so you only attract and work with people who fit the products and services you provide in the way you choose to provide them. Here's a simple diagram that shows how to set and start your goal of doubling your profit. Notice how even a tiny 10% increase to the prices in the model goes directly to the bottom-line profit.

Every client you want to attract is already a client of another business. Not necessarily a client of someone that provides the same products and services that you offer, but of many different things. Perhaps your ideal clients tend to drive cars valued at over $100,000, live in certain neighbourhoods or go to a particular gym.

HOW TO GET STARTED ON BUILDING YOUR PROFITABLE PRACTICE OR SALON

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Review that your business is packaging its products and services in a way that keeps you in touch with your clients for an on-going journey, not just a short one-off transaction. Design programs that fit both your business and your clients' wants and needs. Create a form that shows the income of your salon or practice and identifies which clients are generating the majority of that income. The challenge for many practices is their financials are separate from their client database, but you need to understand that it is the relationship between the two that is central to the profit mechanism of your business.

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Seek and create win/win opportunities with trusted service providers who help people that fit your ideal client profile. This takes time and practice, but you only need a few of the right connections to make a huge difference to the profitability of your business. With the introduction of some simple, yet effective tools you will be amazed at how easy it will be for you to experience great profits and watch your business grow to new levels of success.

Dan Buzer is the Founding Director of Profit Mechanics, a business consultant/coach and sought after professional speaker. He has lectured to local councils and economic development groups, Chambers of Commerce, private business events, business networking meetings and franchise events. Dan's tried and proven business systems have helped add millions of dollars to the bottom line of many businesses. Through easy to follow strategies and effective tools Dan helps business owners develop the skills to increase their profits and grow into a stronger, more robust business.

If you would like assistance in getting these strategies working in your business, request a Starter Pack from Dan Buzer of Profit Mechanics and get these ideas implemented in your business. Simply email info@businessprofitpack.com.au and in the subject line add APAN or CALL 1800 838 767 or 0414 567 188 to speak to Dan. You will be amazed at how quickly you can achieve the success you are looking for. Business packages start from as little as $97 a month to suit all needs and budgets.

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APJ 67


industryreport ㄰

An INDUSTRY REPORT – Examining the Threats and Opportunities in the Australian Aesthetics Industry

By Tina Viney When economies face challenges the primary consideration of any industry is to assess how economic shifts will affect consumer spending and ultimately business performance and growth. While on the one hand financial restraints threaten business survival, on the other they become the catalyst for product and technological innovation, and thus we are seeing a massive boom in technology becoming a global phenomenon as rivalry and competition threaten business dominance and survival. When it comes to the beauty and aesthetics industry there are several global trends as well as threats that are unique to our industry that I will attempt to address in this article, and while some of my comments may be hard to swallow, I trust they will be taken in the right light, as my intention is only for the good of the industry.

They are looking for quick, accurate advice and the right answers to exactly what they want with the least amount of fuss.

NEW APPROACHES TO WORKING WITH TECHNOLOGIES When it comes to their personal appearance consumers are more likely now to engage in home devices and technologies that give them greater control of improving their appearance, whether these are hand-held face-lifting, slimming or hair-removal devices – the heightened need for self improvement is seeing more and more consumers gravitating to tools that will empower them to access the results they are looking for on their own. This is indeed a threat to the professional beauty industry, but by understanding this trend there are steps you can take for continued engagement and offering on-going value to consumers. The more you understand the changing consumer mindset the better able you will be to predict their responses.

KEY GLOBAL SHIFTS Let's first look at the global perspective of factors that are changing the landscape of beauty and aesthetics. When assessing what changes you need to make allow me to stress the most important consideration. Ultimately, your success in business will be determined by one primary issue – how well you understand the changes to consumer psyche and what drives them to the uptake of your products and services. Unless you can identify what is happening in this space the rest is simply statistical information. At the end of the day predictions and innovations may make great news, but unless we comprehend the changing psyche of consumer-driven demand and adapt to providing solutions for these needs we are just following meaningless statistics.

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So what new changes are we observing in consumers? If we were to sum up in one word what is the pivotal force that is driving consumer trends it will have to be INDIVIDUALISM. Today's consumers have a better understanding of what they want. They have gained greater clarity of what options they have and have a better understanding of what is important to them. Life is very much about meeting their needs and gaining access to the specifics that interest them.

From the outset we need to understand that the objective of the handheld devices is steering consumers towards skincare products in retail stores and towards multi-level marketing. For example companies such as Sony have developed a unique skin-analysis device to assist consumers to determine what is happening in their skin and what products to use, while Sylvan has developed a small handheld LED Light Therapy with microcurrent skin rejuvenation device for home use, and NuSkin have almost doubled their figures in the past 12 months with their Galvanic Spa, and it is estimated that in the next 12 months we can anticipate to see hundreds of such new devices aimed at consumer self-use entering the market. While initially this may appear as a threat, consider the flip side of the coin – consumers are feeling, touching and using handheld technologies and experiencing their benefits and possibilities, but also their limitations as to what they can achieve with

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APJ 68


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them. Meanwhile, medical/aesthetic modalities are also experiencing a boom. Light-based technologies such as IPL and lasers, Thermage and LED light are now technologies that consumers can better understand. LED light, ultrasonic cavitation, electroporation, radiofrequency, iontophoresis, microcurrent and microdermabrasion are common-place in the modern salon and clinic. The multi-disciplinary approach using a combination of technologies can provide substantially better results in treatment outcomes, especially when combined with potent skincare formulations with advanced delivery systems. What that means is that you now have a more informed consumer that can better understand and appreciate what you are offering them, so when it comes to handheld devices don't view them as a threat – add a new dimension to them. Tell your client, “What if I told you that by using your home device you can substantially improve your treatment outcomes when we coupled this with professional-strength technologies that can bring a new level of rejuvenation to your appearance?” Collaborate with them to optimise your results rather than compete.

THE NEW ERA OF LEASING With the necessity of utilising multiple technologies another new trend that we are seeing is the need to lease equipment rather than purchase them. It amazes me that so many businesses feel that they need to outright purchase all their devices and equipment and are reluctant to lease. While this is a novel idea it often is no longer realistic. Times are changing and for a salon or clinic to be able to offer the kind of results that consumers are now looking for they will need a multi-disciplinary approach utilising various technologies, and what they will find is that purchasing each one may be costprohibitive and a business strategy of the past. It is important to keep things simple, minimise any financial risk and move with the times.

TRAINING AND SKILLS DEVELOPMENT While I am on the subject of equipment, one other threat that is plaguing many salons and clinics is the issue of skills shortage. With the advent of new technology any progressive salon or clinic needs to recognise the need for on-going education and not just supplier-based training, and foster a culture of lifelong learning with their staff, encouraging them to continue to invest in their education and knowledge if they are to stay competitive.

Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL and laser as this area has been identified as a skills shortage concern by many businesses. Hair reduction meanwhile is considered one of the fastest-growing treatments, with consumer demand constantly on the increase. If you would like further information in applying for funding with the NWDF please contact me on info@apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360.

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WHAT IS HAPPENING WITH BUSINESS TECHNOLOGY? As a business owner you should have a website and social media presence for your business. However, with a substantial number of people now using mobile smart devices (MSD) as their sole device to interact with the world, it is important that business owners look at providing them with the ability to interact with their business on their MSD.

You website is a static information conveyor – like a moving billboard it really isn't an interactive tool. You can (and should) make sure your website can rescale successfully to various screen sizes of the MSD. However, this is not enough to satisfy the MSD users. The whole point of using a MSD is that they are designed to interact with every element. You are meant to seamlessly move on the device from one task to another without interruption. The programs that run on these MSDs are called apps. An app can and should utilise all the elements available on the MSD – the camera, phone, internet, GPS and other abilities. There are companies selling apps that are simply a mobile version of your website. These are not true apps and have a very limited appeal to a MSD user. A business app should reflect the business’s visual identity that is found on their website. But it should take it much further. The app should incorporate all the elements of the MSD. For example, it is not enough to give an address for the physical location of the business, it needs to be integrated into the GPS program so the MSD can lead them to the address, or at least let them know how far away it is. A good app will allow the user and the business to interact in a great number of ways using all the various elements of the MSD and in turn engage the user more fully with the business.

THE EVOLUTION OF SPECIALISATION

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The National Workforce Development Fund is an exciting new government initiative that has been established to support businesses to improve the skills and qualifications of their staff. APAN was approached by Service Skills Australia to become the lead organisation for our industry to promote this initiative to business owners and to identify appropriate educational qualifications that are highly in demand by salons and clinics and meet with the Government's criteria for this funding initiative. Government funding will be supplemented by co-contributions from salons to help them ensure staff training, specifically in SIB701

Another industry and consumer trend that we have identified is the recognition of specialisation. Across the board of many industries we are finding that consumers are a lot more discerning when it comes to where they invest their money, and what they are looking for is specialists. While many salons and clinics would like to continue to evolve and expand their client reach through diverse services, our statistics are confirming that the “one-stopshop” when it comes to beauty and aesthetics is becoming a dying breed. You can no longer afford to dilute your brand. Your

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APJ 69


message to the consumer needs to be very concise and clear and it must make a target statement about what you are a specialist at.

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Being a Jack of all trades and a master of none is now frowned upon by consumers. If you are not a specialist they will endeavour to find one who is. We have seen far too many businesses go broke by trying to extend themselves to be both grooming experts, nail technicians as well as anti-ageing experts, and most of them have failed – it just doesn't work. You need to determine where is your niche and invest in becoming the expert in this area. I very much doubt that you will find, for example, a dermal therapist that will also undertake waxing, tinting and nail services. There is a reason for this as each area is now perceived as a specialty, so careful consideration of your professional and business identity is now the new paradigm business shift.

CONCERNS WITH WORK ETHIC When it comes to threats in business survival I have to say that I am also greatly concerned with the growing position of unrealistic expectations that frequently staff and trainees have of their employers, and I must stress I am basing this position purely on recent objective statistics from businesses who have reached out to us for help. The number of staff and trainee disputes that contribute to stress and pressure on business owners is on the rise and has unfortunately led to numerous business owners downsizing or even leaving the industry.

expectations and obligations – both theirs and the employees, so that there is no room for misunderstandings. On the other hand, trainees and employees need to understand that unless their focus is in working towards the progress, growth and prosperity of that business, by default their jobs will be at risk, and this more often than not comes down to attitude. The mindset of a successful employee who is looking at growing their skills, knowledge, confidence and their level of job satisfaction lies squarely on their shoulders and the attitudes they bring to their position in the workplace. Any issue can be resolved when addressed with respect and a willingness to co-operate. Employees have to realise that running off to Fair Work to “dob” on their employers should not be their first point of call. They also need to understand that Fair Work can only give them a “recommendation” based on the information presented to them at the time of the call, which may not include all elements of consideration, and for this reason does not constitute legal advice. Running a business is as much a financial risk as it is an opportunity. Whether the business survives is also as much the responsibility of the owner as it is of the employee who contributes positively or negatively towards its activities. In today's business environment positive collaboration is the key, and it is therefore a worthwhile investment to ensure that the ground rules for positive communication are firmly established for the benefit of all concerned.

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CONCLUSION Staff and trainees need to recognise the often difficult positions that many business owners are in and their responsibilities in achieving a viable business that can support their salaries and job security – many which often do not even take a salary in order to ensure that they have sufficient funds to pay their staff.

In summary I would have to say that the biggest threat to the beauty industry would have to be the issue of complacency, as many are still refusing to take the necessary steps towards accommodating new developments and implementing the appropriate changes that our industry and consumer trends now require.

On the other hand, it would appear that some choose to abuse the use of Fair Work as an instrument to inflict constant judgement calls on their employers under the guise that the most important issue is their entitlements and rights, without any due consideration as to where that business is currently standing in terms of its economic survival. If businesses are to survive there needs to be a moving away from the “them and us” mentality where staff and management look at working together with common goals and objectives and where rewards can be expected on the basis of business growth and performance and not just “rights”.

While it would be realistic to say there is still a level of volatility and uncertainty in terms of consumer spending, there is no greater advice that I could give than to encourage the industry to take note of consumer expectations and constantly put forward to them appropriate value-added services and products that they just can't resist. I would like to close with a famous statement made by the late Steven Jobs that sums it all up:

Within several peak bodies, not only APAN, there are concerns as to how well Fair Work is addressing the issue of Industrial Relations, but regardless as to whether one perceived the current governing system is fair or failing, the real issue is that both employers and employees need to work together with better communication, understanding and compassion for one another.

Employers need to establish clear employment guidelines defining

"A lot of companies have chosen to downsize, and maybe that was the right thing for them. We chose a different path. Our belief was that if we kept putting great products in front of customers, they would continue to open their wallets.”

APAN is a member-based professional organisation designed to provide costsaving solutions, expert advice, professional development and educational pathways and options to both the aesthetics and medical a e s t h e t i c s i n d u s t r y. V i s i t www.apanetwork.com for further details or phone 07 5593 0360.

APJ 70


keyingredient You might say that in Australia the overweight and obesity problem is as a result of the abundance of wonderful food that is readily accessible, or that we consume more than we exercise, but there is also growing evidence of a condition called Metabolic Syndrome emerging at an epidemic rate and some hidden causes that also contribute to the overweight issue. So what is Metabolic Syndrome? Metabolic Syndrome is the name for a group of risk factors that raises your risk for heart disease and other health problems, such as diabetes and stroke. The term "metabolic" refers to the biochemical processes involved in the body's normal functioning. Risk factors are traits, conditions or habits that increase your chance of developing a disease.

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GREEN COFFEE BEAN EXTRACT AND WEIGHT-LOSS

Weight loss not only contributes to a leaner body, but also to a more youthful appearance and often clearer skin. This is why it goes handin-hand with your anti-ageing approach to your clients' skin and overall appearance. Technologies such as ultrasonic cavitation are one of the key tools we are seeing featured in beauty and aesthetic clinics, however, these technologies on their own cannot sustain a smart and svelte figure unless our external efforts are also supported by a healthy approach to weight management through diet and exercise. Whether we like it or not, viewing beauty as being just an approach from the neck up is progressively losing its appeal, as consumers are more and more seeking the full package of looking and feeling good on a total body level.

FACTORS THAT AFFECT WEIGHT GAIN

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Despite that we have so much information about the dangers of being overweight, Australians statistically are among the most overweight in the world. On a global scale the World Health Organisation predicts there will be 2.3 billion overweight adults in the world by 2015, and more than 700 million of them will be obese. Worldwide obesity has more than doubled since 1980. In 2008, 1.5 billion adults, 20 years of age and older, were overweight. Of these, over 200 million men and nearly 300 million women were obese. Over 65% of the world population lives in countries where overweight and obesity kills more people than underweight. With the high cost of prescription weightloss drugs and the fear of side-effects, the general public is turning to nutraceuticals. The estimated global market for 2014 is over 350 billion US dollars, as published by Market Research News.

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The five conditions described below are metabolic risk factors. You can have any one of these risk factors by itself, but they tend to occur together. You must have at least three metabolic risk factors to be diagnosed with Metabolic Syndrome: ! A large waistline: This also is called abdominal obesity or "having an apple shape". Excess fat in the stomach area is a greater risk factor for heart disease than excess fat in other parts of the body, such as on the hips. ! A high triglyceride level: You're on medicine to treat high triglycerides. Triglycerides are a type of fat found in the blood. ! A low HDL cholesterol level: You're on medicine to treat low HDL cholesterol. HDL sometimes is called "good" cholesterol. This is because it helps remove cholesterol from your arteries. A low HDL cholesterol level raises your risk for heart disease. ! High blood pressure. You're on medicine to treat high blood pressure. Blood pressure is the force of blood pushing against the walls of your arteries as your heart pumps blood. If this pressure rises and stays high over time, it can damage your heart and lead to plaque buildup. ! High fasting blood sugar. You're on medicine to treat high blood sugar. Mildly high blood sugar may be an early sign of diabetes. Your risk for heart disease, diabetes and stroke increases with the number of metabolic risk factors you have. In general, a person who has Metabolic Syndrome is twice as likely to develop heart disease and five times as likely to develop diabetes as someone who doesn't have it. Other risk factors, besides those described above, also increase your risk for heart disease. For example, a high LDL cholesterol level and smoking are major risk factors for heart disease, but they aren't part of Metabolic Syndrome. Having even one risk factor raises your risk for heart disease. You should try to control every risk factor you can to reduce your risk. The risk of having metabolic syndrome is closely linked to overweight and obesity and a lack of physical activity. Insulin resistance also may increase your risk for Metabolic Syndrome. Insulin is a hormone that helps move blood sugar into cells where it's used for energy. Insulin resistance is a condition in which the body can't use its insulin properly. This can lead to high blood sugar levels, and it's closely linked to overweight and obesity. Genetics (ethnicity and family history) and older age are other factors that may play a role in causing Metabolic Syndrome.

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FREE RADICALS AND WEIGHT GAIN While we understand that weight gain may point to the presence of Metabolic Syndrome and the risks associated with this condition, there is now mounting evidence that Metabolic Syndrome can also result from high levels of toxicity that our bodies are exposed to on a daily basis. In fact, there are over 6000 studies that also link

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Metabolic Syndrome and weight gain to the prevalence of toxic burden as a significant contributing factor.

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Studies now also confirm that free radicals lead to unwanted weight gain. For instance, researchers from the Linus Pauling Institute at Oregon State University found a direct correlation between oxidative stress (free radical damage) and increased obesity. The study authors stated, “Obesity, as measured by body mass index (BMI), is independently associated with oxidative stress and confirms recent data”. (Arteriosclerosis, Thrombosis, and Vascular Biology. 2003;23:365.)

Another study from the University of Florida published in the Journal of Human Nutrition and Dietetics; Oct 2009, found that eating plants high in phytochemicals (and antioxidants) is effective at reducing the amount of oxidative stress in the body, and therefore able to lower the risk of gaining unwanted fat.

THE VERDICT ON GREEN COFFEE AND WEIGHT LOSS While there are many theories on means and ways to detoxify the body, which are too many to cover in this article, there is, however, one ingredient that is attracting a lot of publicity for spurring steady weight loss, and that is green coffee extract.

Once coffee beans are roasted, the chlorogenic acid breaks down. It was also reported that none of the people in the study reported any side-effects. The capsules were extremely bitter so they are best taken with a lot of water before a meal. When these studies were presented at a medical conference they were considered preliminary, as they had not yet undergone the "peer review" process, in which outside experts scrutinise the data prior to publication in a medical journal.

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Professor Vinson also confirmed that he was currently conducting a future larger study of approximately 60 people.

Since then a more comprehensive study was conducted that implemented a crossover design to compare a low-dose green coffee extract, a high-dose green coffee extract, and a placebo. This was a randomised, double-blind study with conclusive results of the benefits of green coffee extract in assisting with weight loss. Visit http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3267522/ to view the Abstract: Randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, linear dose, crossover study to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a green coffee bean extract in overweight subjects.

POPULARITY SURGES Green coffee is considered as a potent antioxidant that also promotes thermogenesis. In a small, 22-week study, researchers found that 16 overweight men and women lost an average of 17 pounds. They took the green (unroasted) coffee beans in supplement form and, for comparison, took a placebo at a different point of the study. They did not change their diet, but were physically active. They lost more while on the supplements than while on placebo. They lost the most when on the higher of two coffee bean doses per day. The study was conducted by Joe Vinson, PhD, professor of chemistry at the University of Scranton, and the results were presented at the annual meeting of the American Chemical Society in San Diego. The results echo those of earlier studies, but Vinson used a larger dose of the green coffee beans. The study included people 22 to 46 years old and was funded by Applied Food Sciences, which makes the green coffee antioxidant supplement. Vinson and his colleagues gave the men and women in the study a 700milligram dose of the ground coffee beans and a 1,050-milligram dose. They also gave them a placebo or inactive dose during the 22week study. The men and women cycled through each phase for six weeks. In between, they had ''wash-out'' periods where they didn't take any supplement. In this way, they served as their own comparison group. "Their calories were monitored," Vinson says. They were not put on diet as such, however, calorie intakes stayed about the same during the study. They averaged about 2,400 calories a day, which is by no means a weight-reduction plan.

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They burnt, on average, about 400 calories a day in physical activity. The 17-pound loss was the average. Some lost only about 7 pounds; others about 26 pounds. Overall, body weight declined by an average of 10.5% and body fat declined by 16%. The study participants lost slightly more weight with the higher dose compared to the lower dose, but not a significant amount with the placebo. Professor Vinson could not confirm for sure why the coffee bean extract seems to help weight loss. He suspects one explanation is the unroasted beans' chlorogenic acid. According to Professor Vinson chlorogenic acid is a plant compound that is now believed to have some effect on keeping down glucose absorption, which in turn helps reduce weight.

Meanwhile it's no coincidence that green coffee bean extract surged in popularity after being mentioned on The Dr. Oz Show. In September last year after being taken to task by critics for calling green coffee bean extract as a “miracle” product, Dr. Mehmet Oz conducted his own experiment on the supplement. Using 100 female volunteers, Oz said he found women who took the extract lost an average of two pounds in two weeks. Women who took a placebo lost an average of one pound during those two weeks. In his opinion green coffee appears to be thermogenic in assisting in weight loss and so the popularity of green coffee is now experiencing a boom.

HOW DOES IT WORK? Chlorogenic acid, the key component of green coffee bean extract, is a powerful natural antioxidant, which combats free radicals in the blood-stream. The effect is to slow down the ageing process and improve circulation and muscle tone. Furthermore, the major antioxidant in green coffee bean extract, chlorogenic acid, inhibits the release of the G6P enzyme, which has been shown to significantly stabilise blood sugar levels, so diabetics can definitely benefit from taking this supplement. Diabetics can also benefit greatly from any reduction in weight that may occur from taking green coffee bean extract, as well. That is only one of the reasons that this research is so exciting. According to studies published in the Diabetes, Metabolic Syndrome and Obesity Journal, green coffee bean extract may just be one of the best weight-reducing products that actually delivers on its promises. Green coffee bean extract is available for wholesale purchase by a small number of suppliers to be sold through salons and spas, so it could be a product you may wish to stock.

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REFERENCES AND FURTHER INFORMATION: Metabolic Syndrome: A Clinical and Molecular Perspective http://care.diabetesjournals.org/content/24/4/683.short Randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, linear dose, crossover study to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a green coffee bean extract in overweight subjects. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3267522/

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Advancements In Laser Hair Removal Technology

A new level of performance in laser hair-removal systems has been achieved with the release of the Deka Synchro Replay Excellium. In a world-first for aesthetic laser systems, the Replay Excellium now features both 20mm Alexandrite and 20mm Nd:YAG spot sizes in the one system. Even more impressive, combined with the advancement to the 20mm spot sizes, the Replay Excellium features a 3hz repetition rate in the Alexandrite wavelength, which allows operators to deliver even faster treatments.

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Matt Moncrieff of High Tech Laser, the exclusive distributor of Deka equipment in Australia and New Zealand, said the new Synchro Replay Excellium confirms Deka's status as the most powerful Alexandrite laser available for aesthetic laser treatments.

“Deka has been regarded as Europe's leading manufacturer of laser devices for many years. The new Synchro Replay Excellium outperforms any hair-removal laser currently available and it is a demonstration of Deka's dedication to constantly improving their systems. The Replay Excellium has set the new benchmark for Alexandrite and Nd:YAG lasers and confirms their desire to lead this class of laser worldwide. The Replay Excellium allows operators to perform faster treatments and to avoid expensive consumables required by some of the competing systems.”

REMOVING THE NEED FOR COSTLY COOLING CONSUMABLES The Synchro Replay Excellium bypasses the need for costly cooling consumables, with a contact pre-cooling system built into every handpiece and the option of combining it with an external air cooling system. These cooling systems increase comfort for the patient and eliminate the need for cryogen spray, thus reducing running costs and avoiding the risk of cryogen burns. The Replay Excellium features a top-hat laser beam profile that eliminates 'hotspots' in the treatment area. With traditional lasers for hair-removal, a hotspot is formed in the centre of the treatment area, with less energy towards the edges. The top-hat beam profile creates even energy-distribution over the entire spot – meaning more comfortable and predictable treatment results. The system also offers customisable pulse-length and multipulse options to allow treatments to be more accurately tailored to different hair and skin types. This offers an advantage over some competing laser hair-removal systems that have fixed pulse lengths. In addition to hair-removal on all skin-types, the Alexandrite and Nd:YAG wavelengths provide the ability to deliver high-quality vascular and pigmentation treatments. The Synchro Replay Excellium is ideal for experienced laser clinics or for IPL users looking to make the step up to laser treatments. It combines Alexandrite and Nd:YAG laser sources in a single platform, and provides the option of adding the respected Minisilk FT pulsed light source (IPL) to the system. With 5-filters for greater selectivity on a variety of skin types the pulsed-light source enhances the Replay Excellium as a complete light-based treatment workstation, capable of delivering a comprehensive range of high-quality aesthetic treatments.

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For more information on the Synchro Replay Excellium call High Tech Laser on 1300 309 233 or visit www.hightechlaser.com.au.

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tradeevent injections fillers and surgical procedures for face and body. Devices such as lasers, slimming technologies, Radiofrequency and NonThermal Focused Ultrasound for body contouring were also featured.

NEW TRENDS

Cosmetex 2013

I was particularly impressed with Dr Arthur Swift's presentations on the beautification of the upper face. Dr Swift is from the Westmount Institute of Plastic Surgery, Montreal, Canada and is considered one of the most renowned surgeons in both Canada and i n t e r n a t i o n a l l y. H i s presentation included techniques on how to achieve a youthful-looking face without the appearance that it has been enhanced through surgery or injectables. He demonstrated new techniques on how to achieve this through minimal use of fillers and Botox, but positioned differently to previously used techniques. His brow-enhancing techniques were amazing and he demonstrated that when done correctly they can make a face look considerably younger in a very natural way. His techniques also identified to what level to inject, what product to use, the angle of the injection and the importance of correctly measuring the features to achieve a natural and balanced look.

delivers another successful conference By Tina Viney This was the first year that I had personally attended Cosmetex and indeed it was a great educational experience. Cosmetex is a conference organised by the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery (ACCS) – an annual event that presents new and more efficacious ways of using cosmetic technology, surgical and injectable techniques and new trends in appearance enhancement. The event was held between the 18th and 20th of April and was staged at the Melbourne Convention Centre, bringing together an impressive 93 speakers, 660 delegates and together with exhibitors over 907 were in attendance, including plastic surgeons, dermatologists, cosmetic physicians, nurses and other cosmetic health practitioners, dermal and aesthetic therapists. The event is considered the biggest cosmetic surgery conference in the Southern Hemisphere.

When it comes to a younger-looking upper face Dr Swift stated that we should not be looking at brow lifting, but rather brow shaping that brings the brow to a more youthful position rather than just a lifted position.

I had the opportunity to speak with Jenny Valiance, General Manager of the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery. Jenny stressed that on-going education is very important to all practitioners in cosmetic medicine and the objective of the conference was for this purpose and for raising the standards of practice. Jenny also pointed out that with the increase in consumer demand for cosmetic procedures it is important that the public is guided on how to access credible practitioners. “There are currently fake fillers and injectable solutions that can be accessed and this is a concern,” she stressed. “The ACCC's Code of Practice is designed to ensure consumers can identify qualified and responsible practitioners. We also provide valuable patient information that is available on our website and is designed to guide them on useful questions they should be asking before a procedure and when to request a second opinion,” Jenny said. “For the practitioners, it is important to improve their communication with their patients. For a successful procedure it is important to allow the patient to articulate what they perceive as their primary concern and not to put on them just what you see. Effective communication is so important in achieving a successful procedure and this is another area that we encourage doctors and practitioners to grow their skills,” Jenny stated.

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New treatments and procedures included regenerative use of stem cells, micro-fat grafting and the latest techniques in anti-wrinkle

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As in previous years Dr Leslie Baumann, author of the “Skin Type Solution” was in high demand to sign her book. She also delivered several lectures. The most impressive for me was on complications and how to avoid and correct them. Viewing how necrosis can occur when an injectable causes damage to a blood vessel was not only scary to view, but it also brought home how injecting is not only an art form, but also requires an in-depth understanding of the position of the muscles, blood vessels and nerves of the face. While we are often presented with the wonderful way that injectables can create a more youthful effect, we are rarely shown how devastating potential complications can be and the sometimes permanent damage that can result from an incorrectly delivered procedure. I also recognised the importance of continuing education for anyone who is delivering injectables or fillers. The educational program was extensive – far larger than I could give it justice in this article, as numerous techniques as well as equipment technologies were demonstrated in great detail. Many lectures also presented live procedures through video, which were highly effective as they were able to demonstrate the practical application of certain protocols and techniques that were discussed.

WHAT ARE THE TRENDS AND WHERE DOES THE AESTHETIC THERAPIST FIT? I was greatly encouraged to see that the era of dramatic facelifts, over-plumping and overfilling of the lips and cheeks will soon be replaced with the more subtle and discreet trend of appearance enhancement. The notion that “less is more” was featured strongly, with end results looking substantially less dramatic and far more natural. Appearance enhancement is moving away from making someone look more “glamorous “ or like another famous person, to looking fresher and more like their own self when they were younger. I believe this trend will appeal to a greater number of consumers as not everyone aspires to look like someone else. Hand rejuvenation is also going to be another big trend, as up against a younger-looking face a wrinkled hand with the evidence of thinner skin and protruding veins is a telltale sign of the real age of the

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individual. Injectables for hands were featured by a couple of companies and the results were impressive as well as relatively natural-looking. I believe that autologous Platelet Rich Plasma procedures will see a continued growth in demand, as harvesting your own plasma to be re-

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manufacturing these devices. However, the success of this procedure will be determined by how many platelets are needed to get good results. The recommendation is that in order to control the results you need 4-5 times the baseline, which is estimated at an approximate concentration of one million platelets. Stem cell facelifting offering youthful rejuvenation and volume deficit correction will also become the new more natural facelift. This procedure will also offer great longevity of up to 5-6 years, which will rival the duration of a surgical facelift. Once again this option will not solve all problems, but will offer an excellent solution for improving skin texture as well as for revolumising depleted features. We will also see several conditions such as tired eyes and eye bags that previously needed surgery will now be addressed with great results using multifactorial injection techniques using lower molecular weight ingredients injected in tiny quantities. These techniques will deliver effective facial remodelling, creating subtle balances in reshaping and revolumising sunken areas for optimal and natural beautification. New hyalorinic acid in lower molecular weights and new techniques will offer subtle but effective feature corrects. New and enhanced injectable ingredients with varying viscosities will offer better remodelling capabilities, collagenesis, increasing fibroblasts and deliver enhanced longevity and firmness to the skin.

injected into your skin for rejuvenating purposes will pose less risks of reactions compared to foreign ingredients. Once again not all manufacturers are the same and there are currently 18-20 companies

So what can the aesthetic therapists still offer? Our role will continue be crucial in helping through our techniques, products and technologies to improve skin texture, enhancing elasticity, minimising dullness and pigmentation

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Mobile Marketing is the most powerful media ever invented – New York Times

HAVE YOUR OWN MOBILE APP BUILT APAN Strategic Alliance Partner – Kharis Enterprises are professionally Smart Phone Apps developers. with over 20 years association with the Aesthetic and Beauty Industry. As a Strategic Alliance Partner, Kharis will offer APAN members a discount.

SOME OF THE FEATURES AN APP CAN SUPPLY PUSH NOTIFICATION – Connect with customers for free. Use “PUSH” Notification to get clients to fill empty treatment slots. PRODUCT INFORMATION – Include video clips, testimonials and detailed information. The more informed your clients are receiving from you the more likely they will want to purchase your products. LOYALTY PROGRAM THROUGH GPS COUPONS – Use the Smart Phone built-in GPS to implement “GPS Coupons”.

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result. The new multi-disciplinary approach using various equipment technologies, trans-epidermal delivery systems, stress management, detoxification and nutritional protocols will substantially not only support a more youthful appearance through their own merits, but can be a valuable adjunct to the longevity and overall improvement to injectable and surgical procedures. We can and should work together for better client outcomes in this new era and the evolving definitions of what constitutes appearance enhancement.

For further information on Cosmetex visit www.cosmetex.org/melbourne2013 In 2014 Cosmetex will be held in April in Queensland.

and improving skin immunity. While injectables have their place, a wellhydrated skin with good lymphatic drainage and a well nourished blood supply will still remain within the aesthetician's domain. A healthy skin texture and tone, protocols that offer support to collagen synthesis and support a health pH balanced epidermis, will still remain vitally important to a more youthful end

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(2004), is an autologous concentration of human platelets suspended in a small volume of plasma. “Because it is a concentration of platelets, it is also a concentration of the seven fundamental protein growth factors proved to be actively secreted by platelets to initiate all wound healing,” writes Marx.

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The new era of

Aesthetic and Regenerative Medicine By Jeannie Devereaux While science is looking at ways to synthesise formulations that mimic skin components such as hyaluronic acid or fillers that take the role of collagen and elastic in plumping the skin, the new direction in aesthetics and regenerative medicine is autologous procedures (or ingredients obtained from the same individual), as in the case of Platelet Rich Plasma. The popularity of these procedures are attributed to the body's ability to accept such “transplants”, as in essence they are the most “natural” form of treatment you can receive and thus pose virtually no threat of allergic reactions as they are not foreign substances that the body will need to decide whether to receive or reject. In this article Jeannie Devereaux explains the use of Platelet Rich Plasma in aesthetic skin regeneration and gives us insight into what it is and how it works.

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Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) is being applied in aesthetic procedures to regenerate natural connective tissue, collagen and elastin. PRP is used in a variety of medicines, being Sports, Orthopedic, Cardiology, Reconstructive Surgery, Dermatology, Oral Maxillo Facial Plastics, Dental, Hernia Repair, Post Liposuction – Skin Tightening and Aesthetic Tissue Regeneration. Unfortunately, PRP terminology has become confused and is more reminiscent of a coffee house than a clinical platform. PRP is a defined science that will determine the patient outcome that as outlined in this article.

WHAT CONSTITUTES A PLATELET-RICH PLASMA (PRP) SERUM? Tissue regeneration requires platelets to release growth factors to initiate the wound-healing cascade. PRP, as defined by Marx et al

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Proliferation of human mesenchymal stem cells (hMSCs) is proportional to platelet concentrations in PRP. Platelet count is four to five times whole blood baseline platelet count which is required in order to attract mesenchymal stem cells to regenerate connective tissue – less than this is a poor platelet plasma gel and regeneration is minimal if at all without longevity (Marx et al). Dermal Fillers will change face shape and botulinum toxin will relax muscle contraction, however, healthy skin texture can

never be repaired with these modalities. In a cosmetic setting, PRP is used to improve the overall texture and tone of the skin, improving the appearance of crow's feet, worry lines and nasolabial folds. During the procedure, blood is taken from the patient, spun in a centrifuge to extract the platelets, before being reinjected into the treatment area. There, the platelets release growth factors, which facilitate cell growth and improved signalling, which initiates the building of new collagen. Scientific research has shown that the success of PRP injections depends on the concentration of platelets within the formula. According to Haynesworth et al, a cellular response to PRP injections only occurs when a concentration four to five times above baseline is injected.

THE ANGEL LIFT A further study by Lui et al found fibroblast proliferation and collagen production were enhanced when the platelet concentrations were increased. Research such as this has led to the development of the Angel PRP, which extracts concentrations of PRP four to five times above baseline and more – indeed, the device allows clinicians to customise the concentrations of PRP. Known as the Angel Lift, the procedure can achieve long-lasting facial rejuvenation. Since concentrations lower than four to five times above baseline result in minimal to no attraction of mesenchymal cells, connective tissue will not regenerate. Any initial improvement with these concentrations will therefore not be as long-lasting. An added advantage of the Angel Lift is that the higher concentrations of platelets mean results can be achieved in fewer treatments.

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To truly concentrate platelets from autologous blood, the device must u s e a d o u b l e centrifugation technique. The first spin (hard spin) will separate the red blood cells from the plasma, which contains the platelets, the white blood cells, and the clotting factors. The second spin (soft spin) finely separates the platelets and white blood cells together with a few red blood cells from the plasma. This soft spin produces the PRP and separates it from the platelet-poor plasma (PPP) free from the obstruction provided by a large number of red blood Pre-treatment cells. To attempt PRP with a single-spin laboratory centrifuge would produce plasma only with a few platelets. Most tubes versions are not an authentic PRP – living off the scientific data of other product's clinical data. A true PRP system will support its claims with clinical trials employing its own system. Recently introduced to Australia, the Angel® Whole Blood Separation System, or Angel PRP, is affording clinicians greater control over the concentrations of platelet-rich plasma (PRP) they use in popular cosmetic and medical procedures via a 3ST separation process. This unique 3 sensor technology (3ST) accurately separates blood components using cell-specific absorption of light to increase cellular yields. Absorption of 930nm light detects erythrocytes, absorption of 470nm light detects platelets and leukocytes, and the 1300nm wavelength corrects for ambient light and detects presence of air bubbles. Smart Prep and Magellan are also authentic PRP systems mostly seen in Sports and Orthopedic clinics.

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THE PROCEDURE

The best candidate for the Angel Lift procedure is any age group except for irreversibly aged skin. Irreversibly aged skin requires surgery, however, Angel PRP can be infused within the surgery and down time may be less. Your doctor will assess your skin's condition and if it is suited to PRP. Young skin can elect for a treatment once per year to prevent the appearance of ageing. From the age of 35 onwards the PRP regenerates tissue to prevent volume loss and rhytids. From the age of 40 onwards the skin is visibly showing degeneration, especially in the neck, around the eye and the skin of the hands. Although one would treat the entire area, these specific areas show significant improvement. Necks are mostly treated with surgery, however, surgery will not regenerate skin tissue and the skin can still appear wrinkled. Hands are the tell-tale sign of age and the skin becomes very thin coupled with glycation and pigmentation. Angel PRP will re-volumise the hands, enabling them to be treatable with IPL, RF, peels and laser. Angel PRP can be implemented over the entire body, stretched skin on the abdomen, sagging arms and knees and where there is lax skin. There is no concern too large or small for Angel PRP.

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One year post first treatment AESTHETIC RESULTS Visible results are evident 21 days post the procedure, demonstrating a more noticeably moist skin; 42 days later the client notices a thickening of the skin and an elevation as the elastin and collagen begin to regenerate. Jaws lines become more defined, necks lift, cheeks are highlighted and crinkling skin around the eyes and mouth are smooth and hydrated. In some cases a client considering surgery may no longer require this as the PRP has sufficiently improved the structure. The texture continuously improves for 3-6 months as the collagen and elastin mature. The number of treatments required depends upon age, texture, lifestyle and expectations of the patient. Three consecutive treatments are recommended and one to twice per year for maintenance if required. Results will last for a year and benefit from maintenance with complimentary treatments such as peels, LED, IPL and Cosmedical Skin Care. Treatments cost from $750. PRP Tissue Regeneration has never been more in demand as the current aesthetic trends seek a natural look, without synthetic injectables and unnatural ingredients. PRP is your own autologous blood and will take only 20 minutes to extract at your bedside in a specialised centrifuge and then be ready to inject. It is a relatively painless procedure and down time is minimal if any. Most people experience slight swelling for a day or two, which is part of the tissue regeneration process. Angel PRP is the most natural procedure to promote new healthy skin with a true peaches and cream glow and causing no adverse effects. ㄰

Jeannie Devereaux has been servicing the Dermal Profession for 30 years and has pioneered many treatments into this profession such as Des Fernandez skin needling in 2001, Environ, Calcium Hydroxyapatite (Radiesse) Dermal Fillers and introduced plasma injecting into soft tissue into Australia and now PRP injecting. In 2012 Ms Devereaux pursued advanced methods of Platelet Rich Plasma injecting for tissue regeneration and has launched the most successful campaign in PRP Australia has witnessed: The Angel Lift. Ms Devereaux is renowned for her informative lectures on cosmetic chemistry and the combination of therapies for skin diseases and disorders. Ms Devereaux is currently completing a Bachelor of Health Science at Victoria Uni and furthering these studies in the field of regenerative and translational medicine.

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At the recent Cosmetex conference a couple of companies demonstrated some amazing new techniques for the purpose of hand rejuvenation. One lecture presented how dermal stimulant Radiensse has become the new treatment that utilised two techniques for the purpose of revolumising and rejuvenating the skin on the back of the hand and diminishing the tell-tail signs of ageing. Dr Adrian Lim is a Sydney dermatologist and phlebologist (vein expert) and is considered as one of Australia's leading “hand experts” and trainer in this novel new procedure. In this article he shares with us some interesting information about the procedures.

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The face and hands are prominent aesthetic features that are regarded as important areas for rejuvenation. Chronological ageing in these areas result in volume loss – through bone and soft tissue resorption– as well as intrinsic skin laxity resulting in sagging and wrinkling. The face and hands are also more exposed to the premature photo-ageing effects of ultraviolet radiation, resulting in additional surface pigmentary, vascular and textural alterations through development of telangiectasia, solar dyschromias and solar elastosis.

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When considering hands, it is important to understand that volume depletion through subcutaneous fat loss results in wrinkled skin, sinewy appearance and ectatic veins typical of 'old-looking' hands. Current methods of hand rejuvenation rely on the volumising effect of injectable fillers or autologous fat transfer. 1,2,3,4 Established sclerotherapy techniques, however, can further effectively treat varicose and ectatic superficial veins.5 In this article we briefly examine how the combination of these two compatible procedures for ageing hands with ectatic veins can deliver more youthful hands. These techniques involve:

1. dorsal hand vein sclerotherapy; and 2. filler injections

Hand rejuvenation:

As we have ascertained, the hands are an important aesthetic feature that can reveal ageing through surface pigmentary changes, loss of skin thickness and ectatic dorsal hand veins. Techniques addressing these changes already exist but are not routinely combined for optimum results. The combination techniques of dorsal hand veins sclerotherapy and sub-dermal filler injections offer a more advanced solution.

The new frontier in anti-ageing treatment By Dr Adrian Lim

METHODS The dorsal hand veins are treated with sclerotherapy (0.5% Sodium tetradecyl sulphate). This is then followed by subdermal injection of 0.75ml – 1.5ml Radiesse (calcium hydroxylapatite) per hand, in conjunction with tumescent anaesthetic. The dorsal hands should be gently massaged for two minutes (per hand), twice a day for two days. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated after one month for further improvement. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

While facial rejuvenation can deliver a youthful face, ageing hands can often betray one's true age. Through domestic or occupational chores, hands are subjected to numerous ageing factors such as detergents, cleaning products, hot water, as well as numerous other products one handles, not to mention sun exposure. By all means aesthetic treatments through IPL, peels and other technologies can offer skin improvement in texture and tone, however, when veins become prominent due to thinning skin then the treatment necessary will need to add volume to the back of the hand.

RESULTS The techniques of sclerotherapy and filler injections complement each other well in hand rejuvenation. Radiesse is safe and effective for hands and associated with high patient satisfaction. In suitable patients, the reduction in ectatic veins from sclerotherapy results in a longstanding improvement that complements volume restoration with fillers.

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Radiesse is composed of calcium hydroxylapetite, a naturally occurring component found in the bones and teeth. It is

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biocompatible and fully reabsorbed by the body over time. As opposed to hyaluronic acid dermal fillers, Radiesse has a biostimulating effect that increases collagen production in the body as well as providing immediate volumisation of the skin with progressive accumulative effects. Fillers can either be injected as a solitary procedure or combined with sclerotherapy. When combined with sclerotherapy, fillers are injected immediately after sclerotherapy. Three commonly used fillers for the dorsal hands are poly-L-Lactic acid, calcium hyroxylapatite (CHA) and hyaluronic acid. CHA fillers are favoured for hands on account of its safety, efficacy and cost-effectiveness. CHA fillers are packaged in 1.5ml syringes. Each syringe can fill the back of one or two hands. For increased patient comfort, 0.2cc of xylocaine can be added to the filler. Alternatively, others may prefer multi-depot (2 to 4) subdermal injections evenly spaced across the dorsal hand Unpublished methods of delivering CHA filler through large bore cannulas have also been advocated. To position the hand for filler injection, the wrist and fingers should be comfortably extended to relax the dorsal hand skin. It is helpful to pinch and retract the dorsal hand skin away from the underlying tendons ('tenting' the skin) to ensure the filler is injected into the correct plane. No post-treatment compression is required for filler injection alone. When filler injection is combined with sclerotherapy, a compression bandage may be helpful for 24 hours to reduce swelling and bruising and trapped blood within the treated veins. After 24 hours no bandaging is necessary and the patient is instructed to massage the back of the hands with a moisturiser for two minutes, twice a day, over the next five days. The veins undergo sclerosis and resorption over three months. There is growing interest in hand rejuvenation with emphasis on volume restoration. Fat transfer is technically more challenging and less predictable, both in duration and long-term behaviour. HA fillers offer instant volume correction, and have an established safety record, although the duration of effect is shorter when compared to the biostimulating fillers such as PLA and CHA.9 PLA fillers gradually increase skin thickness over 3-6 months and may persist for up to two years.9 However, there are ongoing concerns about granuloma formation with PLA, even with current revised protocol for product reconstitution and injection. By contrast, CHA have been successfully used for hand filling without the problems of early or late onset granulomas and nodules. CHA has the additional advantage of instant volume correction and can persist for up to 12 months or more. In summary optimum hand rejuvenation requires treating all aspects of hand ageing: surface photodamage, volume depletion and ectatic

Pre-treatment

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Post-treatment

veins. Surface pigmentary, microvascular and textural changes can be effectively treated with appropriate energy devices (eg. vascular lasers, IPL, Q-switched lasers and fractional resurfacing lasers). 11 The combination of sclerotherapy and CHA filler injections should be considered when fillers alone have not sufficiently reversed dorsal vein prominence. The treatment is suitable for a diverse range of patients. Radiesse has a natural viscosity, or thickness, which allows correction of deeper fold and volume loss.

The average treatment takes approximate 20 minutes. Although some discomfort can be expected, local anaesthetic can help. As with injectables there is a risk of bruising and mild swelling post-treatment. Results can last up to 12-18 months depending on the individual, at which point a patient may opt for touch-ups. In my experience the patients are invariably thrilled with the long-lasting volumising effect of Radiesse on the hands. Radiesse treatment allows a doctor to restore a plumper, less-hollowed appearance in a subtle, progressive manner. In this way, you can avoid the immediate signs of intervention and instead “grow” from within a more youthful appearance gradually over time.

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Dr Adrian Lim is a dermatologist and phlebologist with special interest in cosmetic and laser work. Dr Lim is a Fellow of the Australasian College of Dermatologists and Australasian College of Phlebology. He is Chair of both the Australasian College of Dermatologists National Training Committee and the Australasian College of Phlebology Board of Training. Dr Lim is a visiting dermatologist at the Royal North Shore Hospital in Sydney Australia, and medical director of uRepublic Cosmetic Dermatology and Veins, Sydney CBD (urepublic.com.au). Adrian has over 50 scientific and general publications in the areas of dermatology and phlebology.

REFERENCES: 1. Man J, Rao J, Goldman M. A double-blind, comparative study of nonanimalstabilized hyaluronic acid versus human collagen for tissue augmentation of the dorsal hands. Dermatol Surg. 2008; 34: 1026-31. 2. Butterwick KJ. Rejuvenation of the aging hand. Dermatol Clin. 2005; 23: 515-27. 3. Busso M, Applebaum D. Hand augmentation with Radiesse (Calcium hydroxylapatite). Dermatol Ther. 2007; 20: 385-7. 4. Sadick NS, Anderson D, Werschler WP. Addressing volume loss in hand rejuvenation: a report of clinical experience. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2008; 10: 237-41. 5. Tisi PV, Beverley C, Rees A. Injection sclerotherapy for varicose veins. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews 2006, Issue 4. Art. No.: CD001732. DOI: 10.1002/14651858.CD001732.pub2. Accessed 10 Jul 2012. 6. Tessari L, Cavezzi A, Frullini A. Preliminary experience with a new sclerosing foam in the treatment of varicose veins. 2001; 27: 58-60. 7. Bank DE. J Drugs Dermatol. A novel approach to treatment of the aging hands with Radiesse. 2009; 8: 1122-6. 8. Miller JJ, Popp JC. Fat hypertrophy after autologous fat transfer. Ophthal Plast Reconstr Surg. 2002; 18: 228-31. 9. Alam M, Gladstone H, Kramer EM, Murphy JP, Nouri K, Neuhaus IM, Spencer JM, Spenceri E, Van Dyke S, Ceilley RI, Lee KK, Menaker G, Monheit GD, Orentreich DS, Raab B, Smith K, Solish NJ. ASDS Guidelines of care: Injectable fillers. Dermatol. Surg. 2008; 34: S115-48. 10. Bowes LE, Goldman MP. Sclerotherapy of reticular and telangiectatic veins of the face, hands, and chest. Dermatol Surg. 2002; 28: 46-51. 11. Fabi SG, Goldman MP. Hand rejuvenation: a review and our experience. Dermatol Surg. 2012 Jan 23. doi: 10.1111/j.15244725.2011.02291.x. [Epub ahead of print]

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SKIN O2 MULTI VIT – The ABC of Good Skincare! Alison Atia, Managing Director of leading Aussie brand Skin O2, explains why the Doctor Atia's Multi Vit is the ultimate wonder cream to help both protect and combat skin ageing. Multi Vit contains the daily essential vitamins to feed your skin – B,A,C,E – plus age blasters CO Q10 enzyme, rose hip oil and green tea! It's full of the most essential skin nutrients to boost skin vitality. No matter what skincare you or your clients are using, everybody needs their daily dose of vitamins to get better skin results.

WHY DOES OUR SKIN NEED VITAMIN B? Skin has its own immune system that becomes depleted as we age, so you should use Skin O2 Multi Vit a.m. and p.m. as it contains 10% Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) to help boost your skin's immunity and to target pigmentation. Leukocyte extract, Adenosine Triphosphate and Amino Acids provide a vital source of cellular energy, optimising intercellular communication and reinforcing barrier function, giving the skin greater resilience. In essence vitamin B helps to give your skin a brighter and healthier-looking, radiant glow!

WHY DOES THE SKIN NEED VITAMIN A? Vitamin A is essential to help restore and stimulate skin metabolism for a more youthful-looking skin. Skin cells use Vitamin A to repair DNA damage – Skin O2 uses the most potent, stable and non-irritating form of over the counter Vitamin A to target skin DNA damage and nurture the cellular regeneration processes! Hydrogenated Retinol is scientifically proven to be the best form of Vitamin A for skincare

because of both its potency and stability and also clinical effectiveness. The best thing of all is that it is non-irritating, safe and suitable for all skin types, so it eliminates the need for stocking different dosages to build up your patient's or client's tolerance levels. It also eliminates potential redness and adverse effects that other forms of Vitamin A may be prone to do. To find out more about the amazing difference and clinical studies comparing Hydrogenated Retinol to other forms of Vitamin A register for Dr Atia's upcoming cosmedical skincare webinar (see box below).

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SO WHY DO WE NEED A, C & E? Antioxidants have been a buzz word in skincare for a while now, but some products don't use the right combination or correct stabilised form. Your skin's own antioxidants include Vitamins A, C + E, so the Doc has combined the correct concentrations (1%, 0.1% and 20%) of these active ingredients into Multi Vit B, A, C, E skin repair serum plus green tea, rosehip and ubiquinone (CO Q10) to deliver additional antioxidant protection, while their skin-identical Triglycerides naturally replenish the intercellular lipids responsible for skin hydration and radiance. But don't think of Multi Vit just as a defensive. As it is high in key clinically proven antioxidants you see and feel the total rejuvenation through a boost in the skin's natural collagen production, firmness and luminosity after just four weeks. That is why it is the No. 1 Doctor's formulation for scar repair, but not just for scar repair – with Multi Vit you can expect total skin rejuvenation – as we say at Skin O2 headquarters – feed your face with your daily vitamin dose! Nothing else in the cosmedical skincare market even comes close to Multi Vit in total skin results. A potent synergy of highly effective vitamins encapsulated in a stable yet non-irritating formula that is able to deliver incredible, visible results and excellent value for money. For such an amazing formulation you would expect to pay over $150, but our recommended retail price is just $59 with $37.80 WSP.

A big bonus for clinics is that the Doctor Atia's No. 1 Multi Vit also comes in a 500ml professional size. To become a Stockist contact Skin O2 Ph: 07 5593 4488 or check out www.skino2.com.au.

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To learn more about how to use key cosmedical active ingredients that offer instant and long-lasting results, register for Dr Atia's free monthly cosmedical skincare online master classes for APJ readers. Just email beautytherapist@skino2.com.au and you will soon discover why celebrities like Charlotte Olifent, Victoria Beckham and Miss Universe love these amazing products.

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cosmeticprocedures Although the various cosmetic procedures used to minimise the signs of ageing of facial skin are safe, adverse reactions can occur. Among them, bruising is by far the most common. Practitioners and patients alike can take several steps to reduce the risk of bruising. Showing patients photographs of the type of bruising to expect and educating them about what to do pre-and postprocedure to lessen bruising helps promote realistic expectations. The consent process is a great time to explain these issues to patients and to provide them with written information. The suggested pre-and post-procedure instructions for injectables is as follows:

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PRETREATMENT PREPARATIONS 1. Instruct patients to avoid, 10 days prior to the scheduled procedure, medications, herbal formulations, and other agents that confer a blood-thinning effect and, therefore, can facilitate bruising. 2. Apply ice to the area to be treated prior to injection and after injections as it may decrease bruising. By Leslie Baumann MD – Dermatologist Researcher and Author 3. Note that bruising is more likely to occur At the recent Cosmetex Conference one of the most popular speakers in very light-skinned individuals and red heads. was Professor Leslie Baumann who is well-known not only in the US, 4. Suggest pretreatment with oral arnica, which can prevent or but internationally, and in particular in Australia where she is a regular mitigate subsequent bruising. Consider selling arnica supplements to guest speaker. Dr Baumann is also renowned for her own diagnostic patients or clients. methodology on skin types. She has identified 16 different skin types that allow you to better understand how to determine products and POST-TREATMENT treatments that will best suit your clients and we will feature this topic in 1. Recommend that patients obtain a topical and oral arnica product another article. to use after the procedure to prevent and treat any bruises that develop. 2. Advise patients to avoid hot showers, saunas, or other exposure As clients are constantly seeking ways to continue to look better, to heat for six hours after injection to reduce the risk of bruising. improving their skin texture, tone and hydration levels is the first step. Caution patients to avoid alcohol and spicy food for 24 hours because However, with the ageing face volume is also lost and this is where such consumption leads to vasodilation. Finally, discourage patients fillers and injectables may from exercise, facial be required, or even facial massage, or anything else surgery. For this reason that would raise their blood many aesthetic and pressure for 48 hours. dermal therapists work 3. Suggest the use of side by side with either bromelain supplements (500 doctors or cosmetic mg twice a day) in the case of nurses and often provide bruising, as this may help this level of service within speed the resolution. their own clinics or salons. 4. Note that the V-Beam 585 nm vascular laser can be While cosmetic used 24-48 hours after the injectables have the treatment to accelerate the potential to improve the removal of haemoglobin contour of the features from the skin, which, in turn, these procedures often speeds bruise healing. experience bruising in the process. For this reason every aesthetic therapists needs to understand the appropriate recommendations for DISCUSSION both the prevention and post-treatment requirements in addressing Ecchymoses, also known as bruises, occur as a result of an injury to bruising. the capillaries, allowing blood to leak into the underlying tissue. This process usually resolves within seven to 10 days. In a healthy In this article Dr Baumann addresses the physiology of bruising and individual with a small injury to a capillary, the coagulation process appropriate measures to assist in preventing bruising as well as postresults in a fibrin clot in the damaged area and eventually healing of treatment recommendations.

Prevention and Treatment of

BRUISING in Cosmetic Procedures

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the vessel. Platelets are an essential component in the coagulation process. They become activated via exposure to the endothelial lining of the damaged blood vessel, and produce coagulation factors in addition to adhering to the damaged tissue and forming a platelet clog. Several co-factors are required for the proper functioning of the coagulation pathway. Vitamin K is an essential factor for a hepatic enzyme known as gamma glutamyl carboxylase, which is involved in the synthesis of factors II, VII, IX and X. Calcium is also required in several steps of the coagulation pathway. In addition, there are natural anticoagulants present, such as proteins C and S, which are beyond the scope of our discussion. Following coagulation and clot formation, the fibrinolysis process, which is necessary for breaking down the clot, occurs. This pathway starts with the activation of plasminogen, a protein synthesised in the liver that is converted to plasmin via tissue plasminogen activator (tPA) and other factors. Plasmin degrades fibrin into fibrin degradation products (FDPs), which are the end result of this cascade.

BEFORE THE PROCEDURE

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Take Arnica as directed on the package for 1 to 2 days prior to the procedure. Avoid alcohol, especially red wine, for 24 hours before the procedure. Buy a good concealer in case of bruising. We sell a bruising kit with concealer and arnica.

AFTER THE PROCEDURE

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Take arnica and bromelain as directed on the package. Avoid heat such as saunas and hot showers for 48 hours. Avoid exercise or any activity that raised the blood pressure for 48 hours. Avoid facials, or body massages for 48 hours. Avoid alcohol and spicy foods for 24 hours because these lead to vasodilation.

IF BRUISES OCCUR

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Buy a bruising kit with an Arnica/ Bromelain supplement, topical arnica gel and a concealer. V Beam 595 nm Laser – Can be done once bruises are dark purple (about 24 hours after injections). Most bruises disappear in 12 hours after the laser treatment. Eating pineapple may help bruises heal faster.

Many medications, foods and herbal treatments can affect the coagulation pathway ! by disturbing platelet function and affecting other parts of this pathway. Avoiding certain foods, medications and herbs can prevent bruising and other ones can be used to speed the healing of bruises.

PREVENTION AND TREATMENT OF BRUISING The initial bruised area is purplish-red in colour, later changing to green and yellow before the discoloration eventually disappears. Haemoglobin in the red blood cells is responsible for the red-purple colour of the bruise. The two natural break-down products of haemoglobin cause the colour alteration in a bruise. Haemoglobin breaks down to biliverdin (green), which in turn is metabolised to bilirubin (yellow). When performing a cosmetic procedure with possible bleeding, it is important to ask patients about any history of bleeding disorders or usage of anticoagulant medications. It is also important to advise patients to avoid certain medications 10 days prior to the procedure. (See Table below)

HOW TO REDUCE THE RISK OF BRUISING Avoid for 10 days prior to the scheduled procedure: ㄰ 㤵 㜵

! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Coumadin Fish Oil Garlic Ginger Ginkgo Ginseng Green Tea Omega 3 fatty acids Salmon

!

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NSAIDs Aspirin Advil Aleve Motrin Ibuprofen St. John's Wort Vitamin E Warfarin

> > > > >

A list of these medications and supplements should be reviewed over the phone and faxed or mailed to the patient at the time the appointment is made so that when they arrive at their appointment they will not have taken any of these products. This practice will greatly decrease the amount of bruising that occurs if the staff is methodical about this warning. NSAIDs including aspirin are well recognised for their anti-platelet effects. Other supplements such as garlic and ginkgo are also known for inhibitory effects on platelets. In addition, green tea enhances the tendency to bleed by antiplatelet activity. Vitamin E appears to exert its bleeding effect by inhibition of the intrinsic coagulation pathway.

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SUMMARY Although bruising may be prevented by certain techniques in aesthetic and dermatologic practice, bruises are considered an inevitable side effect of injectable procedures. Therefore, it is incumbent upon the practitioner to inform the patient of this minor side effect. Patients need to be aware that bruises may take about 7-14 days to clear, so they can make appropriate adjustments to their schedules.

Leslie Baumann, M.D. is internationally known for her contributions to the field of cosmetic dermatology and is the Director of the Baumann Cosmetic and Research Institute in Miami Beach. She founded the University of Miami Cosmetic Medicine and Research Institute in 1997, prior to which she served as Professor of Dermatology at the University of Miami, Miller School of Medicine. She earnt her medical degree from Baylor University in Houston, Texas, and completed her residency in Dermatology at the University of Miami, Miller School of Medicine. Dr. Baumann is the author of Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice (McGraw-Hill 2009) – the best-selling cosmetic dermatology textbook in the w o r l d , t h e NY Ti m e s best‐ selling book, The Skin Type Solution (Bantam 2005), and authors the Yahoo Health blog, The Skin Guru, which boasts over 3 million readers. Dr. Baumann is a highly sought after consultant and clinical investigator and has been involved in the clinical development and trials of many of the most notable products and devices in cosmetic medicine, including those on Botox®, Dysport,® Hylaform®, Sculptra®, Juvederm®, Tri‐ Luma® and others. She is a Fellow of the prestigious American Dermatological Association.

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

NEW ADVANCES IN THE FORMULATION OF HYALURONIC ACID The oldest of the holding companies, Contipro Pharma, specialising in the manufacture of sodium hyaluronate pharmaceutical grade and other active substances for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry, has now advanced its delivery into the skin.

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Hyaluronic acid is a natural part of the human body. Found in the extracellular matrix, it hydrates the skin and is present in the eye. It is part of the ligaments, enabling our joints to move smoothly. Because of its versatility, it is widely used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, because of its ability to mitigate the signs of ageing and assist the skin to maintain a youthful appearance. From a chemical point of view, it is a non-branched polysaccharide, which has varying biological effects depending on the molecular weight. Historically, its was obtained, quite inconsiderately, from animal tissue (rooster combs, delivery system that has been developed to improve the penetration of actives through the stratum corneum and therefore achieve a stronger effect. The role of the carrier is to package the hyaluronic acid that would normally find it difficult to pass the top layer of the skin to reach target cells deeper in the skin. By chemically modified hyaluronic acid Contipro were able to creates short chains from this natural polymeric substance, which is a natural part of the cellular matrix, and packaged it into a miniature micelle which envelops the selected active anti-ageing ingredient. Following delivery of the substance to the lower layers of the skin and the collapse of the micelle, the carrier itself acts against the effects of skin ageing. In-vitro showed that the carrier itself adjusts the amount of sebum on the surface, which is generally lacking in ageing skin. In addition it acts as an antioxidant.

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tuna eyes, etc.), in a process accompanied by many ethical issues, health problems and risks. Therefore, companies specialising in the production of hyaluronan for cosmetic and pharmaceutical use (such as Contipro) opt instead for more expensive, more complicated, but cleaner and risk-free biotechnological production where hyaluronic acid is extracted from the cell walls of the bacteria Streptococcus zooepidemicus. To enhance its efficacy Contipro has developed a revolutionary

According to Contipro, loading the carrier with a substance that would not penetrate deeper into the skin at all of its own accord means that they now can use much smaller amounts of expensive active substances, because thanks to the improved penetration, it is enough to apply just a fraction of the amount used previously. These new delivery systems are now paving the way for the effective use of previously unusable natural substances in anti-ageing cosmetics. Ref: http://www.contipro.com/about-hyaluronic-acid

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A recent discovery in Australia is showing promise for its anti-ageing properties. The local bush fruit, known as the Davidson plum, is rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, which are believed to help slow down the ageing process. Researchers are confident that this fruit could be the next miracle ingredient, so much so that vitamin company Blackmores and manufacturers Native Extracts have commissioned local agencies to begin trialling the effects of it on humans. The plum is known locally as the Mullumbimby plum and has been an indigenous ingredient to native Australians for years. Researchers are currently trialling to see how effective it is on developing a youthful glow. They are looking to give participants a daily dose of the plum extract which is the equivalent of four plums. The study will look at the antioxidant levels of the fruit and how they affect the participants, which will be measured through blood tests, mood, muscle function and levels of fatigue. Antioxidants can be found in many fruits and are a great way to boost your complexion. They fight the free radicals in the body to create a more youthful appearance. Both Blackmores and Native Extracts say they were confident enough in the antiageing properties of the fruit that they have commissioned Southern Cross University in NSW to perform the clinical trials that aim to determine its effectiveness in humans. Ref: http://www.yourwellness.com

PERFUMES ALSO GO GREEN According to fragrance experts perfume trends will continue to evolve to a more “green” influence, with floral and fruits as well as food influences dominating formulations in 2013-2014.

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Seven Scent, the UK-based perfume formulator who research consumer preferences for the latest trends to direct perfume manufacturing, indicated that the new fragrance will feature lighter more delicate aromas that are predominantly fruit/floral. According to Seven Scent Fragrance Insight Manager Miri Scott, “inspired by farmer's markets and flower stalls, we will see a return to natural accents featuring fresh strawberries, delicate rose and gentle hints of sweet gourmand aromas. Rose scents will offer a modern twist on tradition, giving a light and refreshing direction, enhanced by feminine fruity notes and accents of clean aldehydes and musk. Strawberry will provide a distinctive fruity-green aroma and gourmands such as caramel and chocolate will also exert an influence. Overall the focus will be on celebration of life, bursting with vibrant fruity floral scents with lush green undertones and a hint of fresh citrus”.

With the global fragrance market expected to reach $15.7 billion by 2017, natural ingredients are driving demand and are creating more opportunities for innovation that reflect the changing consumer tastes that are valuing clean, fresh and natural for their uplifting and mood and emotional-enhancing qualities. http://www.sevenscent.co.uk

Australian Native bush fruit research for its antiageing properties

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Health risk of whitening ingredient Although β-arbutin has been used as a skinwhitening ingredient it has been recently deemed to pose a health threat. The German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment after carrying out an assessment on the use of β-arbutin in cosmetics concluded that the substance is considered to pose a health risk. The assessment showed that by metabolic processes in the skin the substances in D-Glucose and hydroquinone are split, thus hydroquinone is suspected to be carcinogenic Although the general toxicological assessment of β-arbutin suggests that the substance may be safe, the bioavailability of hydroquinone under conditions of intended use of the substance is of concern. Whereas hydroquinone was initially permitted at a concentration of 2%, a 1998 opinion of the SCCNFP recommended that the substance should not be used any more as a depigmentating agent in cosmetic products due to observed clinical sideeffects, among which is exogenous ochronisis. Consequently, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) considers the currently requested use of β -arbutin in cosmetic products to be unsafe. In addition, it is the opinion of the SCCP that the same concern can be expressed for other products that result in the release and/or formation of hydroquinone before or upon application. The full report is available and can be viewed through the following link http://ec.europa.eu/health/ph_risk/committees/0 4_sccp/docs/sccp_o_134.pdf

While the German Federal Institute of Risk Assessment states that it still following this opinion, it has also stated that in order to assess whether the health risks of using β-urbutin meet the health risks of hydroquinone the data speed of the enzymatic metabolism of β-arbutin in the skin needs to be clarified.

Ref: http://ec.europa.eu/health/ph_risk

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Occurrence of Non-melanoma Skin Cancers on the Hands After UV Nail Light Exposure

Exposure to tanning beds, which contain mostly high-dose UV-A emitters, is a known cause of photo-ageing. Evidence is also accumulating for an association between tanning bed use and the development of skin cancer. Another source of high-dose UV-A is UV nail lights, available for use in the home and in beauty salons. There is now evidence of non-melanoma skin cancers appearing on dorsum of the hands of women with no personal or family history of cancer who reported exposure to UV nail lights.

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It appears that exposure to UV nail lights is a risk factor for the development of skin cancer; however, this observation warrants further investigation. In addition, awareness of this possible association may help physicians identify more skin cancers and better educate their patients. These findings could warrant the need for sunblock to become a protocol for pre-UV light exposure during light services especially for women who regularly have these services.

IBISWORLD REPORT CONFIRMS COSMETIC SALES WILL CONTINUE TO RISE According to the latest Matrixyl® 3000 IBISWORLD REPORT the global cosmetic market will continue to - New study experience growth with an estimate $265 billion reconfirms by 2017 due to rising consumer confidence. previous Within Australia, the revenue generated from findings

cosmetics and toiletries is estimated at $2 billion with an annual growth of 1.6% from 2008 to 2013.

IBISWorld stated that over the past few years, profits in the industry have suffered as shoppers opted for lower-priced personal care products. The mounting focus on naturally-derived products has also underpinned industry performance over the past five years. However, as the per capita disposable income is rebounding more strongly IBISWorld stated that the industry can expect to see greater growth as consumes will be more willing and able to spend on higher priced products, leading to higher average profit margins for operators.

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Over the past five years we saw consumers opting for less luxury items with sales of lower priced cosmetic products on the rise. However, as consumers gain an appreciation of the benefit of using cosmetic products they are now looking to upscale to more active products in search for better results, thus the constant increase in higher performing products in the cosmetic market. In order for professional products to rival department store and internet brands they will need to provide evidence of their superiority in their actives and their performance as well as their functionality and value, thus increasing the need for skin therapists to understand ingredient chemistry at a more advanced level. Ref: http://www.ibisworld.com.au/industry/default.aspx?indid=1879

R e m e m b e r, m i d 2 0 11 , Sederma was presenting a new in vivo test demonstrating the protective effect against photo-induced ageing of Matrixyl® 3000, the well-known matrikine based anti-ageing ingredient. Today, a complementary approach is confirming Matrixyl® 3000's repairing effect of the cutaneous damages of ageing. Now it is the Matrixyl® 3000's ability to reverse chronological ageing that has been demonstrated with both in vitro and ex vivo studies. First, Matrixyl® 3000 has been shown to regulate the expression of well-known (SA β-galactosidase) and recently discovered (progerin) markers of senescence. Indeed, it does not only reduce the SA βgalactosidase activity, but it also reduces the progerin's expression while preserving the expression of the normal form lamin A. Then, immuno-histochemistry analysis of skin sections (ex vivo study) has proved that Matrixyl® 3000 significantly stimulates synthesis of Collagen-I, -IV, -VII, -XVII and Nidogen-I proteins. While these proteins of the dermis and dermal-epidermal junction usually decrease with age, Matrixyl® 3000 rejuvenates the dermal structure and tends to make ageing skin behave like a young skin.

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Ref: www.Sederma.fr

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companynews JYUNKA Launches Promotional Incentive to REWARD PARTICIPATING SALONS AND CLINICS JUYNKA is a high-quality, unique, niche skincare brand that is renowned for its leading, cutting-edge formulations that rival the best and are recognised as supremely superior market leaders. While they have the basic essentials in skincare their two dynamic serums are their star performers: 1. M+FLUID with 15% L-ascorbic Acid introduced through a highly effective trans-epidermal delivery system. 2. The famous BOTO CAVIAR Serum is the perfect partner to M+FLUID that contains Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 with its Botox-like effect, Acacia collagen, extracted from the Acacia Senegal tree that softens and restores collagen integrity in the skin and mineral and protein-rich Caviar to stimulate collagen. This powerful marine ingredient also helps enhance the skin's cellular immunity. Sodium Hyaluronate is also included to raise hydration levels on and within the skin.

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JYUNKA Anti-Ageing

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Guaranteed Results Reduced Fine Lines, Wrinkles and Crows feet

M+ & BOTO CAVIAR

Gaining momentum within the Australian aesthetics industry due to its amazing results, Jyunka Australia is now launching an incentive program to give back to salons and clinics by offering them some incredible rewards by way of two leading high-tech clinical devices that have been manufactured to support the Jyunka brand and designed to further boost treatment results and business figures. Jyunka is extending an invitation to all salons and clinics to participate and win. We believe the targets are achievable even for smaller businesses, and if you have never tried Jyunka we know you will be impressed with the treatment outcomes they can deliver. Once your clients experience the results they will not hesitate to purchase the products for their home use.

SIMPLY UNBEATABLE AWESOME, STUNNING RESULTS

10 Boto Caviar Serum Plus sales of cleanser, toner, moisturiser and sunblock (no specific amount)

Your reward: Skin analysing system valued at $6000. This device will scan for Sebum levels, Pigmentation , Collagen fibres, Elasticity, Moisture, Pore size and condition and Sensitivity providing you with a 3D assessment of dead layers, a report that measures the age of the skin compared to chronological age. It will assess historical reports, past visits, skin education systems, etc. This is a very professional system designed specifically for cosmetic medical clinics.

INCENTIVE C In a 12- month period achieve monthly sales figures of:

Apart from happy, loyal clients, winning a leading high-tech clinical device will also boost your confidence and give you a valuable tool for further business growth, so why not participate?

JYUNKA REWARDS PROGRAM HAS 3 INCENTIVES: INCENTIVE A

15 Jyunka M+ Serum 15 Boto Caviar Serum Plus sales of cleanser, toner, moisturiser and sunblock (no specific amount)

Your reward: Receive the 4-in-1 Hydro PLUS device and the Skin Analysing system valued at $11,000.

In a 12-month period achieve monthly sales figures of:

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6 Jyunka M+ Serum 6 Boto Caviar Serum Plus sales of cleanser, toner, moisturiser and sunblock (no specific amount)

This promotion starts from June 2013 and will end in June 2014. Why not aim by the end of next financial year to be rewarded with one or both of these amazing clinical devices?

Your reward:

JYUNKA products are made in FRANCE and are backed by SCIENCE.

Jyunka Australia will present you with the amazing 4-in-1 HydroPLUS microdermabrasion machine valued at $5000. This unit features oxygen and hydration all inclusive with advanced microdermabrasion technology.

INCENTIVE B ㈵

In a 12-month period achieve monthly sales figures of: 10 Jyunka M+ Serum

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Contact Jyunka today to discuss how you can get started. If you have never tried Jyunka cosmeceuticals we guarantee you will be most impressed and wonder why you never discovered them earlier. Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au

APJ 91


productinnovations ㄰ 㤵 㜵

CHRISTINA COSMECUTICALS COMODEX – Acne Clearance & Prevention Advanced Hydrating Serum Oily skin may not need any more oil, but it certainly needs hydration, antioxidants and anti-inflammation agents. Christina's Advanced Comodex solution addresses the causes and consequences of oily and combination skin, acne and acne damage (including post-acne hyperpigmentation and scarring). Comodex's innovative ingredients and techniques go beyond typical protocols to bring skin to the healthiest state. The Advanced Hydrating Serum delivers necessary hydration without heavy poreclogging ingredients, to keep skin clear and blemish-free without over-drying. This unique formula is similar to the body's own Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF), which is the biological foundation of young, clear and healthy skin. Visit us at stand 2006 at the

Sydney International Beauty Expo. For further detains contact SKIN FACTORS PTY LTD Ph: 1800 824 282 or 02 9663 1283.

POTENT C AMPOULES For flawless skin Faster than Lightning Even-toned skin is one of the greatest attributes to beauty and youth, now Christina's PotentC Ampoules provide just that. These amazing ampoules are supported by scientific studies and deliver a fast-acting, innovative and powerful skin-lightening treatment that leaves the skin visibly brighter, smoother and younger-looking. These DAY & NIGHT ampoules offer an advanced treatment for reducing pigmentation, colour irregularities and age spots, while simultaneously boosting collagen synthesis for the ultimate rejuvenation treatment. The treatment works with and in conjunction with C h r i s t i n a ' s FluorOxygen line of products, specifically designed to treat pigmentation disorders, sun damaged skin and age spots.

SRANROM SERENITY AROMATIC RITUAL (NEW TREATMENT) Sranrom is Thai for pleasure, serenity and contentment. Sranrom treatments and products formulations are based on ancient Thai herbal healing wisdom and known for their purity and distinctive quality and tantalising aromas. The NEW Serenity Aromatic Ritual begins with a warm oil salt scrub, infused with pure essential oils of uplifting sweet orange and warming ginger, to smooth and nourish the skin. Following is an application of a soothing Body Mask containing flower extracts of Jasmine and Indian Lotus to nourish the skin, with the essential oils of Bergamot and Orange Flower to calm the mind. The treatment is finished with a relaxing massage using a dry oil blend of the exotically aromatic oils of champaca, ylang ylang, lavender and bergamot, for their calming effects. This 90-min treatment is a divine experience for clients and therapists alike, perfect for hydrating and nourishing. Also suitable for a Winter Hand or Foot Ritual.

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Visit us on stand 1618 at the Sydney International Beauty Expo. Contact Dynamic Skin Solutions – 02 9525 8368 or info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au

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For further detains contact SKIN FACTORS PTY LTD Ph: 1800 824 282 or 02 9663 1283.

SRANROM Get Lively BODY SCRUB (NEW PRODUCT) This divine, naturally scented Aromatic Body Scrub is blended with sea salts, uplifting sweet orange oil and lemon oil, liquorice root extract and warming ginger to smooth, polish and brighten the skin. Suitable for full body, a luxurious back treatment, or incorporated into your manicure and pedicure treatments. Get Lively Body Scrub is available in both retail and professional sizes.

Contact Dynamic Skin Solutions on 02 9525 8368 or info@dynamicskinsolutions. com.au

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APJ 92


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THANK YOU You are appreciated

Happy Birthday

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May your day be special because you deserve it!

GIFT VOUCHER for a very special man

because you deserve to look and feel irresistible

WHAT ABOUT FATHER'S DAY? Mother's Day was in May, but what about Father's Day? Are you preparing services “Just for Him”? These days men, and in particular younger men in their 30s and 40s, enjoy time out for themselves, not just for waxing or a massage, but they love facial care as well. As part of their Gift Voucher and Post Card collection APAN has developed a lovely gift card “just for him”. Men are sometimes difficult to know what to buy them, so why not include some recommendations in your next newsletter then display the lovely “male exclusive gift vouchers” as your reception and use them as a talking point to recommend a

May your day be special because you deserve it!

Happy Birthday special package for Father's Day and watch the bookings come in. You can purchase a pack of 50 cards for just $38 or purchase 100 for jut $75 plus postage. You can choose the designs or themes that you wish by visiting our website www.apanetwork.com – click on “Merchandising” and then “Gift Card Vouchers” and check out all our designs and themes. You can mix and match to the quantity you wish. Our Birthday Cards and Thank You Cards are extremely popular and help maintain client appreciation and, ultimately, client loyalty. There is a section where you can customise them with your business stamp.

Visit us at Stand 2513 at the Sydney International Beauty Expo, or Phone 07 5593 0360 to place your order.

AUSTRALIA'S ULTIMATE EYEBROW COLLECTION!

A NOVEL SOLUTION FOR OILY AND PROBLEMATIC SKIN ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Bioelements Oil Control Mattifier is a delicate, yet highly effective moisturiser that controls excess oil no matter what the cause – stress, hormonal activity, medications, seasonal changes or it's just your skin type. Oil Control Mattifier's success is due to its cutting edge formulation and gentle yet effective naturally-derived ingredients. These include a synergistic blend of Chinese peony flower extract, Palmetto, Argan oil and Sesame Seed Extract, as well as Tapioca starch and Canadian Willowherb for its natural beta-hydroxy acid properties and soothing antioxidant benefits. Suitable for any skins that experience breakouts acneic, oily or even sensitive and combination skin types. Bioelements' Oil Control Mattifier retails at $62.95 and for a limited time comes with a FREE TRAVEL SIZE when purchased as a full product. For further details on Bioelements phone Absolute

Spa 1300 262 275 or email: jai@absolutespa.com.au.

Create beautiful brows every day with mineral brow powders, pencils, illuminators, gel and concealer as well as accessories, such as Final Touch Brow Stencil kits, dual Brow Brush and 100% human hair brow wigs designed for women and men who have unfortunately lost their brows due to cancer, alopecia, stress or hormonal reasons. Final Touch Brows was also chosen to take part in this year's 55th TV Week Logie Awards celebrity gift bags. All products are proudly Australian made, salon only and of the highest quality. Look out for us at this

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year's Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo with incredible expo specials: Stand 3522. Final Touch Brows Ph:0449 175 454 Fax: 02 9894 5541 or Email: finishingtouchmakeup@hotmail. com

APJ 93


SKIN O2'S PEPTIDE EYE CREAM

DR. ATIA'S DAILY ANTI-AGEING EYE TREATMENT

Relax and Fill Peptide Eye Cream is an anti-wrinkle injectable alternative product from SKIN O2. Key ingredients include: highest doses of over counter Vitamins A, C & E for cellular regeneration and antioxidant protection, Soluble Collagen to help skin retain hydration levels and – plump and fill static fine lines, Hexapeptide 8 – clinically proven to relax dynamic wrinkles, and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4, also known as Matrixyl™ to restore skin elasticity.

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This potent anti-ageing eye-cocktail combines clinically proven ingredients at high doses to deliver long-lasting skin improvement. Dr Atia uses Peptide Eye Cream for both professional and home care. For Home application – apply morning and night to clean exfoliated skin. For Professional treatment use with Derma Fill Electroporation facial machine to relax dynamic wrinkles.

To learn more about the latest cosmedical skincare ingredients or Dr Atia's Derma Fill treatments, contact Skin O2 Ph: 07 5593 4488 or email beautytherapist@skino2.com.au to register for our free weekly webinar master-classes available to APJ subscribers.

INTENSIVE HYDRATING OIL CAPSULES THE ULTIMATE 'WINTER SKIN TREATMENT’ ENVIRON® HYDRATING OIL CAPSULES are formulated as a tonic to help energise the skin and increase free radical defence. These capsules introduce Retinol to the skin and are enriched with ingredients that have both adaptogenic and antioxidant properties and can be used on any skin type, especially dry, thin skin. The capsules are oil soluble and are easily absorbed into the skin. One capsule is sufficient for one application to the face and neck area and should be used at night at the end of the Environ facial regime. The formula leaves a soft, velvety feel on the skin. ENVIRON® HYDRATING OIL CAPSULES are packaged in an attractive jar containing 30 capsules. Visit us at

stand 2513 at the Sydney International Beauty Expo. For more information or to become an Environ Stockist, call 1300 SKINCARE or visit www.margifox.com.au

A 'FRESH DELIGHT' FOR THE LIPS WITH JANE IREDALE'S NEW PUREGLOSS™ COLLECTION jane iredale is excited to introduce its first collection for 2013 – the new and improved 'fresh delight' PureGloss™ lip gloss collection – featuring 11 new shades. The range now boasts 18 lip glosses with a refreshed formula and sleek new-look packaging. Whichever PureGloss™ colour takes your fancy, it will soothe and nourish lips for a fresh and pretty look. The luxurious, petroleum-free formula delivers a natural-looking sheer tint of colour that goes on ultra-glossy without feeling sticky. In addition, each PureGloss™ now has 35% more product in each tube to provide you with even more creamy colour and a long-lasting high shine finish. Key organic oils Moringa Butter, Lotus Flower Wax and Orange Peel hydrate lips, while Blackberry and Pomegranate extracts provide an anti-oxidant dose of Vitamins C and E and leaves a pleasant, subtle flavour. The 18 long-lasting shades range from subtle nudes and soft pinks to more daring berries and plums. For more

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information or to find out how to become a jane Iredale stockist, call 1300 SKINCARE or visit www.margifox.com.au

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APJ 94


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FINAL TOUCH – THE PERFECT BB CREAM FOR MULTI-FUCTIONALITY

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Final Touch is an amazing new generation product that offers makeup coverage, skin protection as well as hydrating and cell-regenerating properties all in the one product. In recent times BB creams have become the vogue cosmetic item because of their multi-functionality in being able to deliver numerous benefits in the one product. Mila d'Opiz is a superior luxurious skincare company that delivers on quality, purity, functionality and results. Final Touch is a smooth and silky foundation range that assists in repairing and soothing the skin, while giving it a healthy glow. Contains Ceremides III, Rhamosoft for cell repair and alleviates irritations, Vitamin E antioxidant and a variety of plant extracts including Coraline Officinalis, Syrings Vulgaris, Venuceane, a new generation of antioxidant, and Ruscus Aculeatus that supports peripheral circulation.

Phone Mila d'Opiz 1300 464 523 for further information. Email: info@boutiquemonique.com.au

INGREDIENTS THAT SUPPORT THE SKIN THROUGH PRE AND POST-MENOPAUSE The PHYTO DELUXE COMPLEX formulated by the renowned Swiss brand Mila D'Opiz is the result of over 70 years of research and development and is designed to support the skin of pre and post-menopausal women who are experiencing signs of skin ageing. In this formulation the expert team of Mila D' Opiz has developed a highly effective product range to support the skin through the three categories of ageing – invironmental, biochemical and hormonal. PHYTO DELUXE GOLD contains two phyto-stem cells, Phyto 4.7 Peptide Complex and colloidal gold that deliver superior anti-ageing support to the skin, providing cell energising properties that reverse the appearance of ageing skin to a more youthful-looking state. This amazing product will deliver immediate skin improvement and vitality for even the most fatigued skin. Phone Mila d'Opiz 1300 464 523 and discover the

amazing benefits this product can deliver. Email: info@boutiquemonique.com.au

LUXURY CAVIAR WHITE TRUFFLE MASK The Ultimate Super Hydrating And Revitalising Mask If you are looking for a mask that will immediately transform dull, lacklustre and dehydrated skin look no further, your product has arrived. Mila d'Opiz's White Truffle Mask contains some of the most active and amazing ingredients to transform even the most lifeless skin. This luxurious creamy mask contains Caviar, White Truffle, Argan Oil, Meadowfoam seed oil, Jojoba seed oil, Vitamin B, Allantoin and Tocopherol and literally transforms depleted skin within one application of the mask. Luxury Caviar White Truffle Mask provides the perfect finish to any skin treatment, including microdermabrasion, laser or IPL treatments. Phone Mila d'Opiz 1300 464 523 for

further information. Email: info@boutiquemonique.com.au

PERFECT BLEMISH BALM WITH BB Skin Clear – Detoxification and Purification Cleanse by Mila d'Opiz is the ultimate cleansing product. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Highlighting Oceanic mud that absorbs skin impurities and excess sebum, it is the ultimate cleansing and purifying product.. It activates the metabolism of the skin cells and at the same time the skin is being detoxified and purified. Ideal for oily or problematic skin conditions that require purifying, soothing and anti-inflammatory properties that will support the skin's defence and restore its pH balance. Phone Mila d'Opiz 1300 464 523

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for further information. Email: info@boutiquemonique.com.au

APJ 95


APJ 96


productperformers ㄰

CREED – The Scent of Iconic Women

A Dynasty in the art of Perfumery By Tina Viney I love all things beautifying, and when it comes to perfume, it is a “must-have” accessory that reflects my mood, but the fragrances of my choice are very specific. Having qualified in aromatherapy I recognise notes as well purity of aroma. Whenever I go through a store that has high-quality perfumes I am always drawn to try something that may catch my fancy, but often I find that while the top note may be appealing after a while I find many perfumes start to smell the same if not irritating – it is quite disappointing. But, let me share with you a different experience. It all started with a visit to David Jones in Sydney last November. Meandering through the busy cosmetic stands I found myself drawn to a collection of Creed fragrances. At first it was something delicate and classical about their bottles that drew my attention, so I casually picked a bottle and sprayed my wrist and immediately walked away. But this time I was stopped in my tracks. This was no ordinary perfume – there was purity and quality that set it apart from almost any other fragrance I had ever tried before. And so I embarked on an intriguing journey to find out more about Creed and what I discovered was so amazing it is worth sharing with you. Creed is a niche perfume house with an amazing rich history. Founded in 1760 in London by James Henry Creed, the house rapidly became a favourite of the Court of England, with Queen Victoria appointing Creed as the court's official fragrance supplier, an honour that was soon bestowed from a number of the great courts of Europe.

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Royals such as Napoleon III, Empress Eugenia, Francois-Joseph and Elizabeth of Austria-Hungary and Queen Christina of Spain recognised Creed's creation for their quality, refinement and originality, prompting the house to move its base from London to Paris to better serve its exclusive clientele. In recent years Creed has created exclusive perfumes for the likes of Princess Grace, Princess Diana, Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, Ava Gardner and now First Lady Michelle Obama.

As the world's only privately held fragrance dynasty, Creed has served more that 10 royal houses in its enigmatic 250-year history, becoming

one of the oldest family businesses in the world, known for its delicate yet distinctive perfumes that are celebrated by royalty and nobility for over two centuries. Creed's long familial line of master perfumers, with knowledge passed on from one generation to the next, have created a catalogue of more than 200 fragrances that has seen them become one of the world's only true “cult” houses, with a loyal clientele of distinguished men and women from all over the world. At the helm of the dynasty is Olivier Creed, a fragrance expert who has dedicated his life to crafting exquisite concoctions from a love of the art, proving the adage that master perfumers are born, not made. Both Olivier and his son Erwin travel the globe to source the purest essences of rose and jasmine from Bulgaria, Turkey and Morocco, irises from Florence and tuberoses from India, ensuring their perfumes are as beautiful as those first created 250 years ago. Creed's luxurious fragrances are only crafted from essences of great quality, and contain the highest percentage of natural components in the French perfumery industry. The infusion technique, now abandoned by modern industry, enables Olivier, ever the perfectionist, to preserve the originality of his fragrance, with each component weighed, mixed, macerated and filtered by hand in the highest tradition of his forefathers.

Let's take a glimpse at some of the most famous fragrances. CREED FLEURISSIMO – is an exquisite bouquet of regal beauty created for the legendary Grace Kelly. The ethereal floral fragrance specially commissioned by Prince Rainier of Monaco for his bride, Princess Grace, to wear for the first time on her wedding day. An intoxicating blend of tuberose, Bulgarian rose, violet and Florentine iris, Fleurissimo will bring out the princess in any woman, and inspire her dream of royal beauty and romance. This extraordinary fragrance was also a treasured favorite of another American "royal" - Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis who adored this fragrance and adopted it as her signature perfume.

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APJ 97


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CREED ROYAL WATER – is a fresh and clean fragrance for the new generation of royals, praised equally by men and women. This invigorating celebration of the spirit opens with a fresh citrus infusion with peppermint, followed by juniper berry and basil. Musk and ambergris form the base. Royal Water was launched in 1997. The nose behind this fragrance is Olivier Creed sixth-generation master perfumer.

CREED LOVE IN WHITE – this perfume is a delightfully luxurious

scent of rare and high-quality ingredients from five continents: Orange Zest from Spain; Iridescent Rice Husk from Tonkin; Iris from Egypt; White Jasmine from Italy; Daffodils from the French Rivera; Magnolia from Guatemala; Bulgarian Rose; Vanilla from the island of Java; Ambergris and Sandalwood from India. Creed Love In White perfume is a scent so special and truly inspiring only Creed could have created it.

CREED SPRING FLOWER – was Audrey Hepburn’s signature scent and now you can make it your own. The gamin actress commissioned the ultra-feminine Creed Spring Flower scent. Complemented with rose and jasmine, the fruity and floral medley contains peach, melon, and apple notes. LOVE IN BLACK – was also created by Olivier Creed and celebrates mystery and style. Top notes include Night-blooming wildflowers, violet and Virginia cedar. Middle notes have iris, clove, Tonkin musk with base notes of blackcurrant and Bulgarian rose.

THE CREED CHARACTERISTICS These are fragrances that linger rather than scream. You can comfortably wear them around anyone and still not render a single co-worker unconscious during your ride up the lift. As Coco Chanel once said, “Luxury lies not in the richness of things, but in the absence of vulgarity”. There is a real purity about these fragrances that makes you want to reach out to inhale them on yourself several times a day just for the sake of enjoying the sheer pleasure of purity, delicacy and the glorious magical blend of a beautiful aroma – an experience that can never be matched by a synthetic fragrance. As someone who experienced Creed's Spring Flower on a friend said “My first encounter with Spring Flower was after hugging a friend of mine hello. I found myself smelling my own shirt all day long with long, deep inhalations having picked up her fragrance from her clothing. I couldn't get enough and longed to smell her again!” ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Creed perfumes are restrained, discreet, elegant, fresh, yet dazzling, and they embody some of the beautiful qualities of the special women they were created for. Pure essences mixed skilfully shaping the final result into something euphorically beautiful, but without having to wield tremendous force to do so. A Creed fragrance is for someone who wants to dazzle demurely. The calibre of flowers such as rose, jasmine, iris, with a hint of herbs or fruit are of supreme quality, many of which are base notes giving the fragrances longevity without the need for sharp, artificial fixatives. The end result is often a fresh, clean, healthy aroma, yet still intriguingly romantic.

WHY WE LOVE AROMAS So why is it that we are drawn to pleasant aromas? Did you know that your sense of smell is the only sense that is directly linked to memory? It is governed by the olfactory bulb in our brain. This bulb is covered with a small mucous membrane called the mucous epithelium and is the only place in the human body where the central nervous system is exposed and in direct contact with the environment. At the first minute of detection of an odour, signals are carried to the limbic system (the area of the brain concerned with smell) where the smells are then analysed. We can register as many as 10,000 different aromas, whereas our sense of taste can register only four types of taste. Have you ever realised how bland food tastes when we have a head cold?

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The limbic system in our brain is the centre for emotions therefore it is logical that smells should produce different feelings or responses. These responses include comfort, anxiety, sensuality and even anger or fear. The smell of a favorite food can induce a feeling of hunger. A certain smell can evoke a memory, as the limbic system is also associated with memory patterns. Finding a perfume that evokes pleasure can be because it has triggered your subconscious to feel a memorable experience and stimulate positive, happy and wonderful emotions, whether conscious or unconsciously. Fragrances that connect with our emotions should be inhaled slowly and enjoyed. In that way they not only give us pleasure, but also relax our nervous system, stimulate our endorphins and enhance our feeling of wellbeing. So let's come back to Creed. The reason that Creed perfumes can command their price tag (Creed perfumes range from $100 to $1,000) is because of their purity. As their chemical constituents are often unaltered during the extraction process from the flower or plant, this allows them to retain some of their wholesome and pure characteristics that one instinctively registers when sampling them, making them more appealing. On an emotional and physical level Creed perfumes have the power to offer you a unique sensory experience that is unrivalled, not to mention that you could be wearing the same perfume that iconic women like Audrey Hepburn, Queen Victoria, Grace Kelly or Ava Gardner considered their signature fragrance. If you wish to stock Creed fragrances you will have to apply and be assessed for suitability by the company. Within Australia Creed is represented by Agence de Parfum, phone 07 3846 2227. If you want to try some you can find a Creed stand in the Sydney and Brisbane David Jones, or go to www.fragrancenet.com/creed-spring-flowerperfume/creed/womens-fragrances for a chance to read more about them.

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Creed also produces men's colognes. While they are pricey they do come in larger bottles of 75mls rather than the standard small size of 50mls, but they are well worth the investment. Stocking Creed in your salon or clinic will definitely introduce your clients to an even more memorable experience. For me, Creed will definitely be on the list of preferred gifts for my next birthday.

APJ 98


APJ 99


biochemistry ㄰

miscommunication, or when substances relaying bad information get through to the cell, all sorts of problems can take place.

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ENDOCRINE SIGNALLING AND RECEPTOR PATHWAY MALFUNCTION

Let's look at one of the possible ways that endocrine signalling and receptor pathways can malfunction.

Why enhancing CELL SIGNALLING PATHWAYS Can improve Aesthetic Treatments Results – A new move forward for Aesthetic Practitioners By Lynette Rouse Incredibly exciting, however, still in its infancy is the new horizon of how ingredients support and promote improved cellular communication pathways for aesthetic anti-ageing skin health and wellness.

Dr Pugliese states that getting information into a cell is a complex job that can be likened to arriving at a large corporation and wanting to see the president. You must first get the address and then find the door, then once you are inside you must then converse with the guard for direction, the receptionist and the secretary, and so on, and eventually if all goes well you might get to see the president. Cells have an elaborate array of trans-membrane proteins that serve similar functions of getting necessary substances into the cells; these are known as receptors. In order for cells, tissues and organs to survive and function in an integrated fashion, communication within the environment is essential for development, homeostasis and repair of tissue. This can involve mechanical signalling and chemical signalling.

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Cell communication is fundamental to all aspects of health. For all parts of our body to work properly (including skin cells), each cell must know how to perform the correct action at the correct time, and, hopefully, to ignore the information (in the form of messenger substances) that tells cells to do the wrong thing. This takes place through constant, ceaseless communication, with myriad substances telling cells how and when to function properly, which the cells then relaying that information to each other. When cells have a

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Released from the Adrenal Cortex is the stress hormone cortisol and research confirms that stress has a definite effect on skin conditions such as acne, pigmentation, both hypopigmenation and hyperpigmentation. Stress also reduces nutrient supply to the skin in a stress response, as vital organs such as the heart, liver, lungs, kidneys and others require extra nutrients to function. When cell signals do not reach their receptor or are inhibited, the message that the cell requires to complete a task is negated. Dr Brian Walsh offers an example of disfunction in cell receptors and cell signalling pathways relating to the cell receptors of the adrenal cortex in

his analysis of obesity. As we view the Hypothalamus Pituitary Adrenal function or the HPA we see a complex set of direct influences and feedback interactions among the hypothalamus, the pituitary gland and the adrenals. Located in your brain your hypothalamus regulates blood pressure, blood volume, temperature, appetite, libido and the number of different hormones in our body by the pituitary gland. The pituitary gland stimulates messenger hormones such as Thyroid Stimulating Hormone (TSH) or Growth Hormone that tells your adrenal glands to make cortisol or aldosterone. The hypothalamus receives information from a number of different parts of your body. One type of information the hypothalamus receives is hormone based and the amount of hormones in the body is the information from the nervous system such as dopamine, ACTH or information from our immune system. Most tissue in our body makes immune molecules such as cytokines. Cytokines, hormones and neurotransmitter information is analysed in the hypothalamus and the hypothalamus makes decisions based upon this input. So for example the hypothalamus makes corticotropin releasing Hormone CRH and sends it to the pituitary gland, which receives it and then makes ACTH and this hormone binds on to the receptors on the adrenal cortex to makes cortisol, which is a stress hormone.

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APJ 100


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Cortisol is necessary in a time of stress for extra blood sugar requirements that we need as part of our stress response. If the hypothalamus inhibits CRH and the pituitary does not make ACTH the end result is the adrenal glands will not make cortisol. Basically the Adrenal glands will do as they are told by the messenger sent to the receptor receiver. If the Adrenal Glands are told to make a lot of cortisol by ACTH receptors they will do just that, if they do not receive ACTH then no cortisol will be made. So we know that the Adrenal glands have ACTH receptors however, the adrenal glands also have receptors that will receive immune system molecules, such as TNF a Tumour Necrosis Factor alpha. If the TNF alpha binds to these ACTH receptor sites themselves then ACTH is inhibited from binding to the adrenal cortex receptors and the adrenal glands will not receive the information to make cortisol. One of the main reasons this occurs is due to toxins, inflammation and disease.

SUPPORTING THE LIVER FOR BETTER SKIN HEALTH The body's natural detoxification system is the liver. The liver is the major organ that processes toxins. When the adrenal glands become depleted the body is unable to cope with stress. The liver and the kidneys are the organs that have to process the results of stress. The liver breaks down many harmful substances and gets rid of foreign toxin-type matter. Its roles and function include blood filtration to remove toxins, synthesising and secreting bile, which is needed for absorption of dietary fats. It also synthesising many important proteins, carbohydrate metabolism, lipid metabolism, protein metabolism, processing of drugs and hormones, excretion of bilirubin, synthesis of bile salts, storage site for vitamins (A, B12, D, E and K) and minerals (iron and copper), which are released when needed elsewhere in the body. The overall goal of the body’s natural liver detoxification process is to take substances that are generally lipid-soluble and toxic and make them water soluble and non-toxic through a series of chemical reactions. This process is known as biotransformation. The “Transformed” toxins are then carried to the bile to be excreted through the faeces or are carried by the blood to the kidneys to be excreted.

with milia and other fatty tissue lumps, skin rashes, pruritus, dark circles under eyes, acne rosacea, adult acne, uneven skin tone, wrinkles, loss of elasticity and even telangiectasias and brow liver Spots. Every cell has a vast series of receptor sites for different substances. These receptor sites are the cell's communication hooks. When the right ingredient for a specific site shows up, it has the ability to attach itself to the cell and transmit information. In the case of skin, if the cell accepts the message, the cell can then share the same healthy message with other nearby cells, and so on. As long as there is a receptor site and the appropriate, healthy signalling substance, a lot of good, healthy communication takes place.

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However, my mention of this is to state that if these pathways have inhibited signalling through toxic overload and/or if the necessary nutrients required by the liver to perform its duties are lacking. Research confirms that they can lead to skin conditions with manifestations of lipoma, such as

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Our cells' communication network is more complex than any worldwide telephone system ever made. The array of receptor sites and the substances that can make connections to them make up a huge, complex, and varied group with incredible limitations and convoluted pathways.

CONTRIBUTING FACTORS TO ACNE Alpha 5 reductase enzyme is an enzyme involved in steroid metabolism. Alpha 5 reductase enzyme – binds to a specific androgen receptor to form a complex that can regulate gene expression. Testosterone is metabolised to DHT by the enzyme 5 alpha-reductase. DHT causes the glands to secrete excess oil on the skin leading to the production of excessive bacteria. 5-alpha reductase is sensitive to hormone levels and goes into overdrive when testosterone levels escalate, as seen during puberty. The protein Kinase C (PKC) family represents a large group of phospholipid depended enzymes and are activated by a variety of extracellular signals and, in turn, modify the activities of cell proteins including receptors, enzymes, cytoskeletal proteins, and transcription

Hypothalamus There are three phases to the liver's natural detoxification pathways. Phase 1 requires the Cytochrome P450 enzyme system to efficiently neutralise certain classes of chemicals. Phase 11 typically involves biochemical conjugation in which various enzymes in the liver attach small chemical moieties to the toxin. More of this pathway is understood in my short course 'The Holistic Approach To Skin Wellness Through Detoxification'.

Negative Feedback

CRH Corticotropin Releasing Hormone

Anterior Pituitary ACTH ㄰

Adrebocorticotropic Hormone

HPA Axis

Adrenal Cortex

CORT ㈵

Cortisol

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JYUNKA

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No Empty Promises

Guaranteed Results ㈵

Reduced Fine Lines, Wrinkles and Crows feet

factors. The PKC family plays a central role in cellular signalling processing. A number of studies have indicated that PKC isoforms contribute to the homeostasis of skin and alterations in PKC signalling are fundamental to the pathogenesis of skin diseases and inflammation. It would appear that the approach of cleansing the internal system will improve cell-to-cell communication for signalling, messenger pathways and the receptors receiving the information through cleansing of the internal systems and this is understood to contribute to potential benefits to the health and wellness of the skin.

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Sagging Skin –

GONE

Eye Bags –

GONE

Large Pores –

GONE

Oily Skin –

GONE

Pimples and Acne –

GONE

Firmer, Youthful-Looking Skin – YES Radiance and Glow without Reflectors – YES Stunning, Flawless Beautiful Skin – YES One Serum, One Application. PERMANENT RESULTS – OH YES

TOPICAL CELL COMMUNICATION IN SKINCARE INGREDIENTS Cell-communicating ingredients, theoretically, have the ability to tell a skin cell to look, act, and behave in a way that a normal healthy skin cell would, or to stop other substances from telling the cell to behave badly or abnormally. They do this by either direct communication with the skin cell or by blocking damaging cellular pathways or other cell-communicating substances. Cell communication or cell signalling ingredients used in skincare products are currently being extensively researched, however their findings are still in the early stages. In theory, the known cell communicating ingredients to look for are as follows: Retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid, epigallocatechin-3-gallate, eicosapentaenoic acid, niacinamide, lecithin, linolenic acid, linolenic acid, phospholipids, carnitine, carnosine, adenosine triphosphate, adenosine cyclic phosphate, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide-3 and most other peptides, and pyrus malus apple fruit extract.

IN CONCLUSION Skin health for the aesthetic therapist is no longer just about topical applications and protocols. By understanding the skin at a cellular level and supporting the internal pathways that enhance healthy cell communication, cellular detoxification and appropriate ingredient support, aesthetic therapists can now substantially optimise skin health and achieve great anti-ageing outcomes. As with cosmetic medicine there is an on-going body of scientific research that offers new information on the mechanism that influence skin health. This information can benefit the astute aesthetician to gain a greater understanding of ways that can improve both skin health and skin conditions. However, this knowledge can only benefit our clients if we use it by way of introducing new advanced protocols into our treatment regime, this is where ongoing education is important.

REFERENCE:

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JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au

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Pub Med: Role of 5 alpha-reductase in health and disease. Randall VA. Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of Bradford, UK. Activation of Cutaneous Protein Kinase Cα Induces Keratinocyte Apoptosis and Intraepidermal Inflammation by Independent Signaling Pathways Christophe Cataisson, Elizabeth Joseloff, Rodolfo Murillas, Alice Wang, Coralyn Atwell, Sara Torgerson, Michael Gerdes, Jeffrey Subleski, Ji-Liang Gao, Philip M. Murphy, Robert H. Wiltrout, Charles Vinson and Stuart H. Yuspa J Immunol 2003; 171:2703-2713; Sources: Journal of Biological Chemistry, August 2007, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, Microscopy Research and Technique, Nature Medicine, February 2003, International Journal of Biochemistry and Cell Biology, Experimental Cell Research, Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology. T Pugliese Advanced Professional Skin Care The Holistic Approach to Skin Wellness Detoxification in the Aesthetic Industry - Lynette Rouse.

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salonprofile ㄰

Gaining the winning

Perspective Based in Mackay, Queensland, Just Magic Skin Care Clinic is considered as a leading salon in the region. At the recent refurbishing of the clinic we caught up with business manager and owner Rhiannon Nichols to discuss the secrets to the success of Just Magic Skin Care Clinic.

APJ Q1: Tell us a little about your professional journey and how you came about becoming a salon owner? Rhiannon: I originally worked as an employee at Just Magic for

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about 4-5 years. I loved what I did and thoroughly enjoyed working in the salon when the owner one day approached me to purchase the salon. As I had quite an entrepreneurial streak in me and feeling confidence in my performance in the salon, I decided to go ahead and purchase it. The first 18 months were very challenging as changing roles from practitioner to salon owner required that I develop new skills – shifting gears, as I was now required to look at the clinic from a management and business perspective. I was grateful to receive support from business coach Paul Carbis for six month as well as Gay Wardle, who was an excellent mentor and helped me understand where I need to develop and grow my knowledge.

APJ Q2: What is the focus of Just Magic SkinCare Clinic and how would you define your culture? Rhiannon: While our clinic offers traditional beauty therapy services, the focus of the business has progressively evolved towards skin corrective treatments, as our passion is in providing a

professional service in treatments that address more challenging skin conditions that others in the region cannot resolve. We have slowly replaced our skincare and equipment to reflect that and to allow us to achieve the results that clients are Rhiannon Nichols looking for. We now stock Skinstitut, Cosmedix, Skinmedica, Aspect and Mineralogie makeup. To further assist our skin diagnosis we have the skin-analysing machine Visia, we have an iPulse IPL machine and High Tech Laser's Hydrofacial, which helps us achieve amazing results.

APJ Q3: What has been your most successful strategy over the past 12 months that has helped your business grow? Rhiannon: We have worked with Caroline Nelson who helped draw to my attention certain aspects of the business that needed improvement that I had not realised. She helped us put some great strategies in place that enabled the business to achieve a stronger business position. Basically, what Caroline did was help us “sharpen our pencil” so to speak, benchmark what we were doing, analyse our performance and establish clearer and more precise strategies to move forward.

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Another great thing that we were able to do this year is find great staff. This is amazing good fortune because there is no training college in Mackay and finding good staff is not an easy thing.

APJ Q4: How important is staff education and how do you ensure your staff are up-to-date with new treatments? Rhiannon: On-going staff training is extremely important as we need to work as a team, and our services need to constantly be improved and perfected. I had previous completed Advanced Skin Analysis training with Flo Barrett, but in January of this year we engaged Gay Wardle to train all the staff in her methodology. Gay's training was amazing. She educated us on how to address skin conditions by understanding the activity of the skin on a cellular level, not just of surface manifestations. This stepped me up on what I already learnt from Flo to another level. Through this new knowledge the staff also gained greater confidence and were able to improve their professional communication with their clients. This made a huge difference to the business. We saw an increased number of treatment bookings as well as an increase in our product sales. Our package also experienced amazing growth. The other thing that we noted was an increase in word-of-mouth recommendations and our business is now growing through referrals. It is incredible, but the increased knowledge has definitely gained us a great deal more respect from our clients.

APJ Q5: What changes do you see happening in the industry and have you seen any shifts in consumer trends in terms of preferred services? Rhiannon: As new research and advances in technology

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APJ Q6: Tell us a little about the services you provide and what do you consider to be your competitive advantage that sets you apart for other salons in the region? Rhiannon: I believe our competitive advantage is that we are better educated and offer higher standards of treatment results. We are also not conventional in providing only the basic beauty treatments. We offer a more comprehensive treatment menu with a wider scope of options, from “time-out” treatments to corrective and anti-ageing treatments.

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APJ Q7. You recently upgraded your salon, can you tell us a little about that? Rhiannon: Face Magic was one of the first clinics in Mackay and was approximately 30 years old, so it did have an old-style look and feel about it with curtains instead of doors and outdated décor and fittings. It no longer reflected who we were as a clinic and what we wanted to put across to the public and our clients, so we decided that the clinic finally needed a facelift of its own. We therefore made major changes to give it a more clinical upgraded look that better reflected our culture and who we were as a clinic. This was a worthwhile investment as our clients have welcomed the changes, and the staff are more invigorated by a new and more professional work environment.

APJ Q8. What aspirations do you have about the future? Rhiannon: As a professional and a business owner I want to continue to keep my finger on the pulse on new developments. I am committed to on-going learning and ensuring that what I bring to my clients is not just the best in the region, but is also world class. APAN has also been a great investment and support in this. Each time I receive my APJ Journal at night I will make a cup of tea and sit down to read and absorb as much as possible. I also appreciate many of the quality companies that advertise in the journal and have accessed several for their products and services. This is an amazing industry that challenges you to continue on a journey of continual learning and growing. There is never a dull moment.

Rhiannon Nichols is an inspiration and an example of the kind of attitude that contributes to creating her own success. Just

Magic Skin Care Clinic is located at 17 Sydney St, Mackay Qld 4740 Ph: 07 4957 5605.

increase the industry is definitely becoming more specialised. In the past we saw spa treatments splitting from traditional beauty therapy, but we are seeing them come together again. Clients who are stressed still need body treatments and massage to improve overall wellbeing, aid relaxation and support the detoxification process. We now recognise that achieving successful skin-treatment results we need to address the wellbeing of the whole body, the digestive, vascular and lymphatic systems. We are therefore seeing more wellness modalities coming together. Clients also are becoming more educated and confident in what they want – this may be time out for themselves or it may be something more advanced in skin improvement and rejuvenation.

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legalinformation ㄰

EMPLOYEE OR INDEPENDENT CONTRACTOR The dangers of getting it wrong By Michael Bishop Pointon Partner Lawyers Many salon owners and clinics are considering the option of engaging staff through an ABN number as independent contractors. This is because they perceive that option as less complicated without the need of withholding tax, superannuation, sickness benefits and holiday pay obligations. However, there are new laws that govern what constitutes an employee and what constitutes a contractor, and within our industry there are many that have not considered how the law determines the two positions. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

At the recent Australian Aesthetics Conference in Adelaide we were delighted to have a legal expert, Michael Bishop from Pointon Partner Lawyers, addressed this extremely topical issue that brought valuable clarification to a sometimes confusing issue for many businesses. According to Mr Bishop they are currently dealing with several cases that are being investigated by Fair Work in connection with improper use of contractors (in respect of individuals who truly were employees according to

the legal tests). Fair Work is getting more aggressive in this area, as is the Tax Office. Pointon Partner Lawyers are strategic partners with APAN and provide us with valuable support and services for the benefit of our members in all areas of business, including the drafting of contracts and Human Resource advice on wages obligations and numerous other areas. In this article Michael Bishop presents an interesting case of what can go wrong and the consequences as well as the criteria of how the government views wages versus contracts.

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EMPLOYEE OR INDEPENDENT CONTRACTOR: ACE INSURANCE V TRIFUNOVSKI On 25 January 2013 the Full Court of the Federal Court handed down its final decision in the case of ACE Insurance Ltd v Trifunovski [2013] FCAC 3 ('ACE Insurance'), upholding the first instance

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decision that five persons who had been classified as contractors were in fact employees at common law. ACE Insurance is one of the more recent cases of a growing list illustrating the significant difficulties faced by employers today in classifying a worker as an independent contractor. ACE Insurance saw five life insurance agents engaged as independent contractors for the purpose of door- to-door insurance sale claim employee entitlements based on the fact that they were employees rather than independent contractors. After much consideration the Full Court of the Federal Court determined that despite the fact that the agents had each executed contracts stating that they were independent contractors and not employees, they were nonetheless deemed employees of Combined Insurance Company of America ('Combined') at common law.

Considerations in ACE Insurance indicating independent contractor status:

! ! ! ! ! !

The agents signed contracts specifically stating their engagement as independent contractors. The agents issued tax invoices for their services. They had the ability to hire support staff. Agents were reimbursed for the number of policies sold. Agents used their own vehicles for transportation. Some of the agents were contracted through their entities, engaged other employees and were registered for GST.

Considerations in ACE Insurance indicating employee status:

! ! ! ! ! !

Each agent was trained by Combined at Combined's expense The agents worked under the supervision and direction of Combined Agents were unable to work for other parties due to the significant hours required for Combined The agents lacked independence The agents did not generate goodwill for their own business The agents worked in a specified geographical area

Ultimately, the Court determined that the agents were employees of Combined under common law. Subsequently the agents were entitled to annual and long service leave entitlements. The Court's decision turned on the fact that Combined ultimately had control of how and when work was to be performed and that their work enhanced the goodwill of Combined's business. That is, they were seen to be working in Combined's business rather than working in their own independent businesses. This 'entrepreneur test' is the one, which has been adopted in recent cases over the past two years, including the Roy Morgan Research case and the On Call Interpreters and Translators case. They were both superannuation cases where the Tax Office was successful before the Federal Court in proving that superannuation should have been paid in respect of persons who had been classified as contractors, but who the Court found were employees at common law.

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As a result Combined was ordered to pay more than $500,000 in unpaid entitlements to the agents and $10,000 in penalties for 'sham contracting'.

AVOID “GETTING IT WRONG” When engaging persons or entities as independent contractors as opposed to employees, one must proceed with extreme caution. Although it may be tempting, due to the perceived flexibility, avoidance of responsibility for employee entitlements and reduced statutory obligations pertaining to Work Cover, superannuation and payroll tax, to engage an individual as an independent contractor as

POINTON PARTNERS LAWYERS

If you have any queries in relation to this article or any other legal issues affecting your business please feel free to contact Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners.

APAN members receive an initial free consultation in relation to any legal queries or issues they may have.

Pointon Partners is a client-focused commercial law firm based in Melbourne, but which services clients nationally. Pointon Partners is able to assist with: ! advice on obligations under the Fair Work Act & the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010; ! preparation of employment contracts; ! advice on termination of staff & defending of unfair dismissal claims; ! registration of trademarks; ! trademark disputes; ! preparation or review of commercial leases; ! negotiation & preparation of commercial contracts; ! franchising; ! wills and estate planning; and ! buying or selling a business.

Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners can be contacted on (03) 9614 7707 or by email mjb@pointonpartners.com.au or ah@pointonpartners.com.au opposed to an employee, the consequences of 'getting it wrong' can be catastrophic to a business’s survival.

In the event that an individual is wrongly engaged as an independent contractor the following consequences may apply:

! ! ! ! ! !

Liability for employee entitlements such as award wages, annual leave and long service leave; Potential breach of PAYG withholding legislation, including personal liability for directors; Potential underpayment of workers compensation premiums and payroll tax; Liability for underpaid superannuation, including personal liability for directors; Liability for penalties for 'sham contracting', prohibited under the Fair Work Act 2009; Potential access to unfair dismissal jurisdiction that wasn't contemplated at the time of engagement or termination.

Employers must be aware that specifying an individual to be an independent contractor in written contracts does not then preclude them from being deemed an employee at common law by the courts. It is imperative that employers engage in an in-depth analysis of all engagements of independent contractors and employment of employees in their respective businesses to ensure each individual and/or entity is accounted for in the correct manner. Pointon Partners has extensive experience in advising on the above issues. If you have any queries or require any assistance in this area please feel free to contact Michael Bishop or Sophie Ware.

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timemanagement ㄰

Are your clients sabotaging your time? New fun tools to gain control of your time and business by Valerie McDougall & Jayne Jennings – Pink Shoe Power Valerie McDougall and Jayne Jennings are innovative professional women who come from a corporate background. They are award-winning international speakers, coaches and businesswomen. Valerie and Jayne have taken the dull but important subject of “Time Management” and after extensive research have identified several time management styles that people fit into. They have discovered that as individuals, how we manage time is not necessarily a cut and dry subject, but has often more to do with our individual personalities and what pulls on our heartstrings. As a result of their extensive research they have identified five time management styles and are now expert business coaches on this subject.

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To give greater appeal and intrigue to this subject they have defined and aligned the various time management styles to a variety of shoes that we wear. On a more serious side their business consulting helps businesses gain a greater understanding as to what is sabotaging valuable time in their business and how to better manage time so as to optimise business success.

Pink Shoe Power – What your Time Management Style means to your success in business and life is a hugely success and popular book that has helped thousands of businesses and individuals master the art of time management. In this article Valerie and Jayne discuss some of the challenges of time

management that we may encounter in a salon. Time is money and ensuring you maximise the number of clients each day is fundamental to your success. We know that our clients keep us in business – but they can also cost us money if we're not careful. One question we're frequently asked in our time management business is: “How do I keep clients moving at the end of their treatment or session?” We've all had them. The client who decides to launch into a long, often sad, story just as their time finishes. Stopping them in mid-sentence can sound abrupt, heartless and for some of us, rude. But keeping the next client waiting is equally disrespectful of their time. In such a personal client-centred business as the aesthetics industry, it's particularly important to be sensitive in handling such issues. You've often developed your own strategies by the time you are the business owner or manager, but are you also training your staff in this area? Here are some strategies to help with this issue, but first, we'll tackle the issue from your mindset. Then we'll look at the client.

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MANAGING THE CLIENT MEANS MANAGING YOURSELF FIRST We start with you because you have to take charge of the client and it's your responsibility to give the best service in the allotted time. That also means, as far as possible, not going over time.

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Take a look at your attitude to your time generally. Do you really value your time? Many women immediately say, 'of course', but then act in ways that you know it's not true.

MEET HELPFUL HELEN ㈵

inclinations that may compound the issue of clients-who-talk-pasttheir-time, it's fair to start looking at tackling that side of the issue.

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You soon get to know your clients, don't you? You recognise the ones….

Let's take the Pink Shoe Power Time Management Style Helpful Helen. She is found frequently in helping professions from teaching to wellness and beauty. She gets satisfaction from helping others. She's reliable, diplomatic and very capable. Helen's the go-to person when you want something done as she usually obliges and so is very busy.

!

The trouble is Helen then gets way too busy and overwhelmed and starts to resent helping other people because she can't get anything done for herself. So the very thing that gives her satisfaction – helping others – then becomes a burden.

!

! !

Who seem to be always rushing, are often late and don't worry about making others late. Those who love to talk– ‘born with a gramophone needle in their mouths as an old grandma used to tell us. The ones you know you'll need to put up your 'The Shrink is In' sign! Those you see over many years and have developed a fond relationship with.

Here we'll focus on those who always seem to keep you chatting (or actually, they're chatting!) well after their time is up.

Yes, as you'll have guessed, she needs to learn to say 'no' more often! But the sympathetic listening skills of a “Helpful Helen” can mean other people do download their issues to her without even thinking about Helen's time or energy levels! So if you recognise that you have some Helpful Helen in you, you could have particular difficulty nipping those over-time ‘conversations’ in the bud. The good news is that practice does make saying 'no', or 'sorry, I've got to keep moving to my next client' easier. The bad news is it usually does need practice!

If they keep talking and extending their time past what they've paid for, you know two things about them. First, they don't respect their own time; and second; they don't respect your time.

SIX WAYS TO TACKLE TALKERS You're already adept at ensuring you have set booking times and changeover time between clients. As your repeat business is the lifeblood of most aestheticians, understanding your clients' foibles and balancing those relationships with maximising the number of clients you see is part of your business success.

MEET JUGGLING JULIE Women with Juggling Julie in their Time Management Styles are creative and fun. They love new ideas and can handle multiple projects and tasks with ease. They're the queens of multi-tasking. But if they take on too much they lose focus and become scattered and stressed. They generally enjoy people and find conversations stimulating. The downside is that they can get involved in some interesting discussions and lose track of what they should be doing. And that includes keeping to time! So Juggling Julies have to practise being 'in the moment' and aware of their task at hand. That way, you help your client focus on the experience and don't get caught up in their chat. For all of us, whatever our Time Management Style, selfawareness is key. Once you are aware of your tendencies when your client lingers at the end of their session, you can set strategies in place to help.

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Incidentally, our work has led us to develop five distinct Time Management Styles. We love them all although each has her own strengths and challenges. Based on many hundreds of results through our Pink Shoe Power Profiler to determine your Time Style, about one-third of us seem to be purely one style and the rest, a combination of styles. The excellent value of the Profiler is that is gives you an objective view of your Time Style rather than just what we think we'd like to be! And yes, we do have Time Styles for men, too!

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WHAT ABOUT THE CLIENTS?

Once you start taking responsibility for any of your own

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2. ㈵

3.

4.

A

S

CTI PRA TION

S ER

STHETI AE C

5.

the treatment. Sometimes this means saying it more than once nicely, of course. Winding down procedure: If it's a 50-minute treatment, after about 45 minutes start your 'wind-down' procedure. Depending on the treatment, it could be as simple as saying, “Why not relax for the last five minutes and take some special restoring time for yourself while we finish off”. It helps stop the conversation so you can leave the room. If it's a perpetually late person, don't let them take you over the time it should have taken if they had been on time. Again, it's all about being nice in how you do it. Remember, some professions will charge you and not see you if you are late. No need to be as dogmatic as that, but with perpetual offenders, you don't need them to be costing you. Take charge: With the people who talk incessantly, they're usually used to being interrupted to be told something like, 'That's interesting/great/sad…lovely to talk to you, let's go and make your next appointment'. In other words, be aware that they chat to fill space and don't see it as offensive when you politely finish the chat immediately and move them on. Do it with compassion: Naturally, we're not saying don't be compassionate. The lonely or sad folk need the gentle but firm approach. You can be most direct with the constant chatters. Come prepared with the right wording: Remember, you are in charge! Reflect on the times you've been held up by clients and how you would now handle them. If it helps, jot down words you would use. Practise, if needed, so they become second-nature.

ORK

So here are six strategies to help get your clients moving at the end of their session so you keep to time: 1. Set expectations: Ensure clients know the time involved in

DV

TW

E I S O RY N

APAN

6. Value your time as a priority: It all comes back to valuing your time. Behind your ability to value your time is your feeling of self-worth or self-confidence. Identifying your Time Management Style helps you understand the ways you may sabotage your time – and the underlying challenges that cause it. It also helps you exercise your strengths to keep you on top of your game – and your time! Managing your time really means managing the way you use your time. And that applies also to managing the way your clients may try to subvert your time!

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Valerie McDougall and Jayne Jennings, Directors of Time Matters Now, are worklife balance champions, coaches, speakers and writers each with more than 20 years of experience in strategic planning, big and small business, coaching, communications and entrepreneurship. Their breakthrough approach to time management shows how we can manage our time, and our lives, better by working with our individual personalities. They have identified 5 Time Management Styles, which are explained, with success strategies, in their book Pink Shoe Power: What Your Time Management Style means for your success in business and life. Valerie and Jayne run workshops and coaching programs for individuals and businesses helping women and men have more time for what is important to them every day. Their extensive research is backed by experience, case studies and post-graduate qualifications.

To find out more about the Profiler or their services, go to www.PinkShoePower.com or email them at ContactUs@PinkShoePower.com

“I had spent thousands of dollars getting legal advice to address my staffing issues not to mention the stress. Then someone told me about APAN and I spoke to an expert there and immediately realised that I could have access to top information and expert advice so quickly and easily and at a very reasonable rate of just joining as a member. Now when I have a query or a question, I just flick an email to APAN and within the hour I receive expert industry advice or legal advice from their solicitors it's amazing. As a professional I know my information needs to be accurate and credible. Through APAN I have access to not only the best but I also get my needs met fast! Joining was the best decision I ever made. Linda Bentley, NSW “My association with APAN is one that I greatly value. It is exciting to be part of a great organization and a large professional network that can offer me expert support and credible advice. APAN has brought a new level of service that we have not experienced before and they have shown great integrity within the industry. Their commitment and passion for the good of the industry is inspirational. Whenever I have reached out to them they have always been very positive and resourceful. I have also found them very generous in giving above my expectations and helping me achieve my goals. Nella Faraone, Western Australia

It's not what we say about ourselves – it's what others say about us that matters! ㄰ 㤵 㜵

“I was going through a major business crisis and it was recommended to me to phone APAN to join and access their mentoring and consulting services. Within half an hour of speaking with Tina Viney I was given immediate expert advice and gained clarity on how to address the issue at hand. Tina presented me with some incredible advice and options that allowed me to solve my issue straight away. To think we can access on industry leader of her calibre for a small yearly fee is amazing. For her wealth of knowledge and expertise I expected to be paying my yearly fee as an hourly rate. I am sold on the value of my membership with APAN.” Jenny Good, ACT

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With a strong motto of members first APAN delivers what it promises. They are committed to your progress. ㈵

Join the APAN Community of Practices. Invest in membership and reap the rewards. Phone 07 5593 0360.

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bookreview ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Pink SHOE POWER

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What your Time Management Style means for your success in business and life

By Valerie McDougall and Jayne Jennings

If you've ever said “I don't have time” when thinking of something you really want to do – that exercise program, training course, new business project, time with children and friends – then it's time to rethink how you are using your time. You have the same number of hours in your day as the people you most admire, but it is possible for you to achieve your dream too. You simply need the right strategies and tools. In their book Pink Shoe Power – what your Time Management Style means for your success in business and life, authors Valerie McDougall and Jayne Jennings present us with great insight as to why our time is sabotaged and effective tools to gain control. They discovered that traditional time management approaches are often seriously flawed because they don't take the individual into account. Their search for answers resulted in the development of the novel new concept of Pink Shoe Power Time Management Styles that will allow you to gain smart insight into your mind to help you organise your time in a way that works for you. This book will help you get absolute clarity on why you manage your time the way you do, what your strengths are and where you're sabotaging your time. Think you already know? You don't know the half of it! Understanding your Time Management Style helps you regain control over your time so you won't live to regret what you do – or most importantly, don't do. The focus of this system is to help you improve all areas of your life. Whether it's conquering your business world or taking time out for yourself that you are after, make it easy on yourself by using the strengths of your Time Management Style to get into the flow of time. This is the key to any serious achievement you want to make.

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This is not just an enjoyable book to read, it also includes sections for you to use it as a workbook. In this book you will discover: ! Why you manage your time the way you do ! What's sabotaging your time ! The strengths and challenges of your Style ! The secrets of getting the most out of your time every day ! How to improve team outcomes with Time Management Styles ! Personal stories that give you practical insight and inspiration Pink Shoe Power – what your Time Management Style means for your success in business and life is a breakthrough approach to time management that will change the way you view your time for ever.

Get your copy of the book Pink Shoe Power — What your Time Management Style means for your success in business and life for only $37 including p/h. Discover your Time Management Style Profile for only $64.99. The knowledge of how best to use your habits and personality drivers so you can save time and achieve what you want to each day is priceless.

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For BEST VALUE get them both and you pay only $69.99. Go to www.pinkshoepower.com and click on the tabs. Then simply include the code APAN in the box: Additional instructions for seller. (You will see this option immediately before confirming payment in the Paypal screen.)

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keyingredient Research confirms powerful skin benefits of

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Peptide & Protein-rich

CAVIAR

By Dr Amna Sheikh

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Recent advancements in technology have not only introduced us to a variety of devices and equipment, but they are also bringing to light research findings on some very powerful ingredients that can offer superior results for the care of the skin. Now, consumers are not only relying on traditional skincare techniques, but also welcome novel formulations and in particular those from bio-technology. One of these ingredients that is gaining popularity is Caviar.

MINERAL AND PEPTIDE-RICH CAVIAR The earth is composed of above 70% of water in which it encompasses full life within it. For example sea water provides us with wonderful ingredients and a vast assortment of marine organisms. The biodiversity of the sea environment comprises an endless resource of innovative active substances. In this context we are going to present the importance of Caviar – a wonderful natural and nutrient-dense marine ingredient for the skin.

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Caviar is a costly natural skincare ingredient that contains the unfertilised eggs of fish sturgeon. It is a complete source of important nutrients. It is not only tasty and appetising, but is a great substance for the skin. Different studies and researches have proven Caviar to offer great benefits for the skin. It has been found to repair the skin as well as enhance the skin cells’ metabolism. Caviar possesses important amino acids, structural proteins, mineral salts and oligonucleotide. Additionally, it also contains a variety of vitamins such as A, D and B complex. All these nutrients provide antioxidant support as well as support the repair mechanism of the skinenhancing skin rejuvenation. Caviar is therefore an important marine protein that offers numerous benefits in skin renewal.

RESEARCH FINDINGS ㈵

Marine peptides have shown to possess numerous skin rejuvenating and substantial skin-toning benefits. A research was conducted by A. Aneiros, A. Garateix and J. Chromatogr at the Centre of Marine Bioactive Substances (CEBIMAR) to evaluate the effectiveness of marine peptides.

They studied different peptide compounds from various marine organisms that confirmed that marine proteins and peptides possess a large variety of pharmacological effects. Another study by Ratiba Ayad from Institute Arnaud in Paris shows that Caviar extract, being rich in active elements, is one of the most powerful and complete ingredients for skincare treatments. The vitamins and minerals that are present in Caviar provide a natural alternative to synthetic peptides for skin renewal and for improving skin vitality and tone. As we know skin consists of three layers of completely different structures, but which support each other as they are linked together. The superficial layer known as epidermis consists of a variety of stratified squamous epithelium, while the deeper layer, of the dermis consists of connective tissue and cushions the body from stress and strain. It is divided into two layers, the superficial area adjacent to the epidermis called the papillary region and a deep, thicker area known as the reticular dermis. The dermis is tightly connected to the epidermis through a basement membrane. Structural components of the dermis are collagen, elastic fibres, and extrafibrillar matrix. It also contains Mechanoreceptors that provide the sense of touch and heat, hair follicles, sweat glands, sebaceous glands, apocrine glands,

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lymphatic vessels and blood vessels. Those blood vessels provide nourishment and waste removal for both dermal and epidermal cells. While the skin also has a third layer, the hypoderm, it is the changes to dermis that are the most significant and important for skin rejuvenation and anti-ageing results.

THE ROLE OF COLLAGEN IN SKIN ㈵

Abnormalities in collagen have been shown to be a reason of the cutaneous changes taking place with an increase in our age. Concomitantly, reduced collagen production and high matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression are common related mechanisms. These are responsible for age-related changes in the skin. Caviar, having valuable properties, serves to reverse this phenomenon. Being a marine collagen it possesses antioxidant properties, which are helpful in repairing the skin's damage caused by varying environmental factors. Caviar is considered therefore as a novel ingredient in providing excellent solutions for treating signs of ageing that manifest on the skin. Caviar not only cleanses and exfoliates the skin, but also enhances the collagen synthesis by providing cell-rejuvenating nutrients to the skin. In this way it provides excellent anti-ageing properties. In several clinical trials caviar peptides have even demonstrated to slow down the process of ageing.

FURTHER RESEARCH FINDINGS In recent times research into the effectiveness of Caviar came as a result of fishermen who used to handle Caviar possessing much smoother skin on their hands. This created curiosity among a great number of scientists all over the world who then studied it fully. They discovered the primary reason for skin improvement was due to the bio-availability of marine peptides and protein delivered to the skin. Now many cosmetologists and dermatologists are also accepting it as a best solution for skin related problems and are recommending it. Caviar has established a beneficial role in improving skin elasticity and improving skin tone and smoothness. Researchers claim that Caviar is not only enriched with vitamins, protein and minerals but also have a cell structure analogous to the human skin. It accelerates the natural synthesis of collagen, and in time it assists to thicken and plump the skin and consequently enhance a younger, firmer-looking skin. Caviar has an ability to minimise the appearance of wrinkles, improving skin radiance and tone. Another study by Sternin, V. & Doré Studies on Caviar also confirmed that the delivery of natural and balanced nutrients also offer the skin additional healing benefits. The use of Caviar brings about youthful regeneration of the skin. Caviar has also been shown to firm the skin and offers the utmost possible levels of hydration. It can protect the skin against UV radiation and toxic environmental factors. This ability to protect and defend the skin fosters the decrease of wrinkles and superficial lines and thus improves its appearance. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

A study by F. Marotta at Proceedings of 6th Annual Meeting of the Germany Society for Stem Cell Research showed that Caviar can alter extracellular-matrix milieu in the skin of older individuals and is useful in influencing mitochondrial function. Different research studies by Rejuvenation Research (Mary Ann Liebert, Inc.) have also revealed that Caviar can improve the functions of mitochondria present in the skin. Mitochondria are essential for regulating cell growth, differentiation, apoptosis, expression of genes and different other important cellular processes. It

has also recently been found that a marked decrease in mitochondrial membrane potential in old people leads to an increase in the level of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are harmful to our body. Marine peptides from Caviar play an important antioxidant role in preventing cellular damage by these free radicals. Furthermore, by enhancing the function of the skin's mitochondria, it has been confirmed that inflammation is decreased around the aged cells of the skin. Additionally, the constituents of Caviar are absorbed easily within the skin and do not cause allergic reactions.

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It was also established at the Research Centre of Obolensk-Russia that Caviar can successfully cleanse, hydrate and nourish the skin by assisting in the elimination of dead cells through desquamation and boosting the synthesis of collagen through the provision of valuable amino acids and proteins.

The huge marine environment is a rich source of many species having beneficial effects on our skin. Caviar is one of the best and the latest products for skincare from the marine environment. Scientists claim that it can successfully rival some skin-rejuvenating procedures such as microdermabrasion, dermal fillers or lasers. Protein-rich Caviar holds the capacity to regenerate and invigorate the skin just like potent botanicals that offer instant and long-lasting hydration. This marine specie has been found to improve skin texture and fade the fine lines in various clinical trials. By infusing the skin with antioxidants and age-defying nutrients, Caviar holds a potential to offer a luminescent skin complexion and to promote health of the skin. Based on these findings protein-rich marine Caviar carries solid scientific evidence, that substantiates its usefulness and efficacy in skin improvement for the treatment of skin rejuvenation and antiageing results.

REFERENCES Aneiros, A. Garateix / J. Chromatogr. (2004) Bioactive peptides from marine sources: pharmacological properties and isolation procedures, B 803 4153 Marine Cosmeceuticals: Trends and Prospects By Se-Kwon Kim Amy Marks-McGee, Trendincite LLC. (2011) Forward Thinking: You Are What You Eat, Promising culinary ingredients with beneficial health properties emerge as key components in flavored and fragranced products, Vol. 1. F. Marotta (2012) Beneficial modulation from a high-purity caviar-derived homogenate on chronological skin aging, JSRM/Vol. 8 No.2 Sternin, V. & Doré, I. 1993. Caviar, the resource book. Moscow, Russia: Cultura. U.S. Customs & Border Protection. 2004. What every member of the trade community should know about caviar. An Informed Compliance Publication. Revised edition Aldo Lorenzetti, Ascanio Polimeni, Emilio Minelli, Franceso Marotta, Reza Rastmanesh, Shalini Jain, Sonia Sedriep, Umberto Solimene and Vincenzo Soresi. (2012) Beneficial Modulation from a High-Purity Caviar-Derived Homogenate on Chronological Skin Aging. Rejuvenation Research Volume 15, Number 2, 2012ª Mary Ann Liebert, Inc. DOI: 10.1089/rej.2011.1274 Winkler-Stuck K, Wiedemann FR, Wallesch CW, Kunz WS. (2004) Effect of coenzyme Q10 on the mitochondrial function of skin fibroblasts from Parkinson patients. J Neurol Sci, 220: 4148. http://www.healthy-wayz.com/diseases-conditions-and-treatments/littleknown-secrets-of-skin-caviar.php.pdf http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Right-Anti-Aging-Complex-Comes-From-theOcean-The-Ocean-and-Your-Beauty-Skin-Care-Products&id=3039703 http://www.dietestetic.com/pdf/CAVIAR%20LIPOPROTEIC%20COMPLE X-ENGLISH.pdf http://aceoflifewellbeingblog.com/smooth-energized-skin-from-caviar/ http://purchasequantity.com/tag/caviar/

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

with cancer patients who need to be monitored to check their tolerance and response to chemotherapy drugs. It could also warn in advance of heart attacks by detecting the presence of metabolites in the bloodstream.

“TINY LAB” IMPLANTED UNDER SKIN TRANSMITS BLOOD MARKER LEVELS

It has been developed as part of the Swiss Nano-Tera initiative, which brings together researchers from a number of disciplines including, in this case, experts in electronics, computing, biology and medicine. The results were presented at the Design, Automation, and Test in Europe conference in Grenoble, France, this month. Ref: Medical News Today: www.medicalnewstoday.com

A tiny prototype lab-on-a-chip inserted under a patient's skin can test for up to five substances in the blood simultaneously and give instant results via a cellphone. The halfinch-long device transmits data via Bluetooth and its Swiss developers hope it will be available to patients within four years. Although it is not the only analysis implant under development, the team from the Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne (EPFL) claim theirs is the first to be able to simultaneously monitor several blood markers, reports Medical News Today. The device comprises two parts: the “tiny lab” that is implanted under the skin and an “intelligent patch” that sits near the implant on the outside of the skin. The implant measures 14 mm by 2mm, and contains five nano-sized sensors that do the detecting. It is inserted into the interstitial tissue just beneath the skin of the abdomen, or arms or legs, with a needle.

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The intelligent patch is about the size of a credit card and does two things: it delivers 1/10 watt of power to the implant via induction through the skin (so no need for surgery when batteries need replacing), and it also receives data via radio waves from the implant, which it processes and then transmits via Bluetooth. The device has already been shown to be as reliable as traditional tests for five different substances. Its potential uses are, for instance,

HIGH GI-DIET AND DAIRY INTAKE NOW LINKED TO ACNE A diet high in glycemic index foods and dairy products is now linked to acne, according to a new study published in the Journal of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics. The study also suggests using medical nutrition therapy (MNT) as a form of acne treatment. The findings support rising

evidence of a link between diet and acne. Over 17 million people in the United States have acne, which generally occurs during their teen and young adult years. Acne can affect quality of life and lead to anxiety, depression and social withdrawal. Because of these unfavorable consequences associated with the skin condition, treatment for acne is crucial.

Previous studies have always associated diet to this common skin condition. Since the 1800s, research pinpointed chocolate, sugar, and fat as diet factors contributing to acne. However, starting in the 1960s, studies began disassociating diet from acne. Jennifer Burris, MS, RD, of the Department of Nutrition, Food Studies, and Public Health, Steinhardt School of Culture, Education, and H u m a n Development, New York University, said: "This change occurred largely because of the results of two important research studies that are repeatedly cited in the literature and popular culture as evidence to refute the association between diet and acne. More r e c e n t l y , dermatologists and registered dietitians have revisited the dietacne relationship and become increasingly interested in the role of medical nutritional therapy in acne treatment.”

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The researchers, led by Burris, conducted a literature review to examine evidence for the link between acne and diet during three time periods: early history, the rise of diet-acne myth, and recent studies. The investigators took information from studies between 1960 and 2012 that examined acne and diet.

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the American Society of Plastic Surgeons before it can be passed for general use.

Ref: The Harley Medical Group

The study factors that were analysed were:

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design participants reference intervention method results and conclusions primary outcome covariate considerations limitations

NEW TRIALS TO START ON DRUG TO TREAT CHIN FAT DEPOSITS Double chins could soon be a thing of the past for many people, with the news that a drug which targets fat cells accumulated under the chin has been passed to undergo a third round of clinical trials.

NEW SMARTPHONE APP 'DETECTS' SKIN CANCER A new smartphone app that claims to detect warning signs of skin cancer has just been launched in the UK market following a two year beta trial in the U.S.

The study showed that a high glycemic index/glycemic load diet and high dairy intake are the primary factors in establishing the association between acne and diet.

German drug company Bayer has been working alongside Californian counterpart Kythera Biopharmaceuticals and the pair is now testing a drug, known as ATX-101.

The novel app, called Mole Detect Pro, provides its users with a remote professional diagnosis within 24 hours. To do so, it safely stores pictures of moles and uses an advanced algorithm to grade the probability of a possible melanoma based on the ABCDE method of detection.

The authors pointed out that although previous studies have suggested that diet does not cause acne, it could influence it or make it worse. They recommend that dietitians and dermatologists work together to design and conduct effective research addressing this topic.

If the trials are successful, the drug could be used to supplement, or even replace, liposuction treatment of the affected area, which is the currently accepted procedure on excess fat deposits in this area.

Dermatologists frequently bring up this acronym during check-ups and ask their patients to keep an eye on symptoms at home.

Burris concluded that this research is necessary to fully elucidate preliminary results, determine the proposed underlying mechanisms linking diet and acne, and develop potential dietary interventions for acne treatment. The medical community should not dismiss the possibility of diet therapy as an adjunct treatment for acne. At this time, the best approach is to address each acne patient individually, carefully considering the possibility of dietary counselling.

Trials of ATX-101 have so far shown that its sole ingredient – which is also a common ingredient in soap – works in a similar way to that in which soap does, by dissolving oil and grease. The tests involved the substance being administered to patients monthly for four months. During this time and three months of follow-up observations, "significant improvements in clinician-reported measurements of SMF" were seen, according to Bayer's healthcare division. But the trials now have to overcome concerns expressed by

The ABCDE method stands for:

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Asymmetry – irregular shape Border – ragged, notched or blurred Colour – more than one in an individual mole Diameter – bigger than 6mm Evolution – changing size, colour or shape

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Leading dermatologist in the UK Dr. John Ashworth has shown a lot of interest in this new app, which has been created by the same experts from the U.S. who are responsible for the award-winning instant smartphone eye test, known as Eye Netra.

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Mole Detective, a beta version, has been available in the United States for two years. Its users, as well as several health experts, have seen its success in detecting melanoma. A version of the app, which will be able to scan for "Ugly Duckling" moles from videos that people upload right from their smartphones is currently being worked on by the experts responsible for Mole Detect. Dermatologists consider these types of moles the most suspicious because they usually look different than other ones around them. Dr. Ashworth said that the technology behind this app is pretty impressive and the net result is that a lot more people with a potential problem will end up going on to seek a professional diagnosis.

United States in 2015 and overseas a few years later, the company said. Two smaller drug makers with similar products haven't made substantial inroads into the almost $900 million a year market. But dermatologists and analysts say J&J could be a real threat to Botox, an iconic brand since it was introduced more than a decade ago. Allergan declined to comment on the potential rival. "J&J is probably the only company that can go head to head directly with Allergan," said Morningstar analyst Michael Waterhouse. "They have a big marketing budget and sales force, and an attractive cosmetic portfolio" of other products to offer dermatologists.

Florida who has been a consultant for Allergan and J&J. But he said patients aren't quick to switch from something with which they are familiar. "Allergan has built such a strong brand. People ask for Botox by name, this will be an uphill struggle" for Johnson & Johnson.

J&J has not yet unveiled the data from completed late-stage trials for the still unnamed drug. But David Wilson, president of J&J's Mentor division, told Reuters he was pleased with the results. "What we hope to offer is a product of certainly comparable quality to Botox, to basically be on par with them" in terms of effectiveness and safety, Wilson said. "We've worked to make sure our data are exactly what

Skin cancer is one of the most common types of cancer in the UK, and unfortunately, young adults are frequently affected by the disease. A previous study indicated that young people who use indoor tanning have a 69% higher risk of developing a type of skin cancer called basal cell carcinoma (BCC). Therefore, selfdetection is very important and has the potential to save lives. Ref: www.medicalnewstod ay.com

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ANALYSIS: J&J'S ANSWER TO BOTOX MAY ESCALATE WAR ON WRINKLES Johnson & Johnson may soon cause frown lines at Allergan Inc, maker of Botox. J&J expects to seek U.S. approval next year for an anti-wrinkle drug that could break Botox's near monopoly, an 85 percent market share. The J&J product could be available in the

Still, J&J's quest won't be easy. Analysts and dermatologists said its product likely would need to work faster, last longer or be significantly cheaper than Botox in order to wrest market share from the original injectable wrinkle fighter. "J&J is a company I'd take seriously; they have great research and try to be industry leaders in every category," said Dr. Kenneth Beer, a dermatologist in West Palm Beach,

the FDA is expecting to see," he added. Morningstar's Waterhouse said the J&J product likely would generate annual sales of $500 million within five years as a cosmetic product. Sales could hit $1 billion within a decade if it also is tested and approved for medical conditions such as migraine headaches, he said.

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http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/03/22/us-jjbotox-idUSBRE92L0CU20130322

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BUSINESS NEWS

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

Fair Work cautions employers against unfair dismissal laws Employers need to take care to ensure that employees and managers are aware of their obligations under Equal Opportunity, Work Health and Safety, and Fair Work laws to ensure workers are not disadvantaged, because they have rights or characteristics protected by that legislation. Equally importantly, the message that it is unacceptable to victimise anyone who makes a complaint needs to be sent loud and clear. A range of recent cases in different jurisdictions illustrate why the concept has such a broad reach and the consequences for employers who fail to heed the warnings. In the first case, the NSW Administrative Decisions tribunal ordered an employer to implement an equal opportunity program, conducted by lawyers from a large law firm, after it found that managers within the company had mocked an employee who had made complaints about race, carers and disability discrimination. It is perhaps ironic that the employee received damages of $5000, but the compliance program is likely to cost the employer much more than that. In a separate unfair dismissal case, Fair Work Australia found that it was unfair to terminate an employee because he had helped another former employee with an unfair dismissal case against the employer. The employer was ordered to pay $50,000 compensation to the employee. The Federal Magistrates Court found that an employer who had terminated an employee's employment because she had taken two

days of sick leave was in breach of the Fair Work Act “adverse action” provisions. The company persisted through trial in attemp ting to ju s tif y th e termination on the grounds of misconduct, as a result of which the employee incurred significantly greater legal costs. The employer was fined $20,000 and ordered to pay the employee nearly $40,000 in compensation and nearly $60,000 in legal costs because of its “unreasonable” conduct of the case. In a separate decision the Federal Magistrates Court found an employer had breached the “adverse action” provisions when it terminated the employment of an employee who had made a formal complaint about underpayment of wages. A penalty is yet to be determined in the case. The decisions highlight the importance of employers impressing on managers and other employees that they need to be aware of the substantive rights of employees arising from legislation designed to be beneficial and protective. In some cases the relevant laws place an onus on the employer to show that the reason that action was taken against an employee was not because of a complaint. It's a tough test to pass. Retaliating because someone has elected to exercise those rights is in some cases worse than the primary conduct alleged, and the case examples discussed show that it can be costly.

Ten expert tips for 2013 from the NSW Small Business Commissioner ㄰ 㤵

Small business owners face a number of challenges in 2013, with rising costs, concerns about the fiscal cliff and a wide range of external variables impacting on consumer and business confidence. But successful small business owners aren't usually the type to sit on their hands. NSW Small Business Commissioner Yasmin King says there are almost always some things you can control, and plenty you can do to ensure you're operating as efficiently as possible this year.

Here are the Commissioner's top 10 tips for giving your small business an edge.

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1. Get your cash flow in order

We all know that cash flow is the most important key to sustainability.

Make sure you have systems in place to enable you to manage cash flow, as well as strategies to get cash through the door. Don't let your debtors blow out. If your customer is the NSW Government, they must pay you within 30 days or else pay interest on the invoice.

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2. Revisit first principles

Before you invest in new technology or systems, ask yourself if you are really getting the basics right. If you start with a mess and simply add technology, you end up with an automated mess. Get down to brass tacks to ensure your processes are really working and ensure that future improvements won't be compromised by a shaky foundation.

3. Review your costs and look for efficiencies Look through your costs in 2012 and see if there is scope to save, either

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This can include technology, industry trends or changes in your clients' behaviour. You need market intelligence and to stay abreast of changes that could impact your business. Industry associations, magazines, journals and websites are good places to start. It is important to access information from objective sources with no commercial bias. Understanding risk and having a contingency plan are also important to help you adapt to a changing environment. Ask 'where is my business the strongest and what might threaten that?' and ensure that you're doing everything you can to minimise your weaknesses and make the most of opportunities.

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Businesses need to be ahead of the game when it comes to providing customers with a quality online shopping experience. It's not just about retail, however. The Internet means that recommendations are king. Ensure your clients can at least find your business online, and stay abreast of any online reviews. Think of it as word of mouth on a massive and instant scale, and make it count for your business. If you already have an online presence, now's the time to review its success. Free services such as Google Analytics are a good place to start, but seek impartial feedback on your website's usability too.

6. Refocus on customer service Don't feel that because you run a small business you're not competitive; good client service will set you apart from the pack. Recently I co-judged Fair Trading's I Love my Local Business competition. Hundreds of customers from across NSW had nominated businesses to win based on their good customer service and positive relationships with the community. In a competitive environment, customer service can keep customers coming back or at least mentioning their experience to their friends, and that's publicity that money just can't buy.

7. Get independent, quality advice before you sign or renew your lease Entering into a lease is a major decision with significant financial implications, and getting advice from your real estate agent is not enough. Test the market to ensure the price is right, carefully think through whether the property and location can meet your business needs and don't rely on future changes such as the arrival of major retailers or public transport facilities unless they are absolutely, independently guaranteed. ㄰

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4. Get informed about trends in your industry and be aware of changing external environmental conditions

5. Think digital

by reviewing your suppliers, changing processes or embracing new technologies. But be smart about it. I once met a retailer who had decided to save electricity costs by turning off the lights. This made his shop look closed and uninviting, which of course impacted on sales. By investing in technology such as LED lighting, he could have reduced energy costs without affecting sales.

Stay ahead of the game by getting familiar with your end of term date, making a note of any rent or market reviews in your diary and thinking about them in advance. If you have an option on your lease, you usually have to exercise it three months prior to the end of the agreement, so be prepared. My office's Dispute Resolution Unit incorporates Retail Tenancy Disputes, and offers quality, independent advice at no cost. Call 1300 795 534 before you sign.

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8. Conduct a relationship health check Revisit old relationships; there may be scope to pick up an old client or negotiate better terms with a previous supplier.

If you're involved in a dispute or think you may soon have one on your hands, don't let it fester. Our Dispute Resolution Unit can help to sort it out as early as possible. It's better to resolve a dispute and save a relationship than build a new one, which will cost time and money.

You might also look at opportunities for new relationships in 2013, including being involved in a business group such as your local chamber. Networking in this way can help you stay informed, reduce isolation and generate ideas to help your business in 2013.

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9. Examine what you have been putting off doing in 2012 Take time to review those issues that you put on the backburner last year. Are they still important? Do you need to take action, reschedule or modify your approach to serve your business in 2013?

10. Have a plan for 2013 Businesses don't plan to fail, they fail to plan, and in a competitive environment you need to think strategically. Start by looking at where you are now: your business, its organisation and overall performance, then consider your market. Establish some directions, and conduct a SWOT analysis to help you identify your strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats.

Set yourself some objectives for the year ahead. You might want to increase customer numbers, manage growth or simply be more on top of business operations. If you're thinking of exiting the business in the next three years, you need to start planning now. Ask yourself what you need to do to close the gap between where you are now and where you want to be by December. This might include improving your financial management, picking up new skills, hiring new staff or developing a marketing plan. Write down these goals and required actions and check in with them regularly. If your plan doesn't work out, don't beat yourself up. Look at what went wrong, whether the goals are still relevant and what you can do differently. Finally, acknowledge that running a successful business takes flexibility, tenacity and perseverance, and with the right attitude, everything can become a learning experience to build upon.

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* For more advice, Small Biz Connect advisors across NSW can help you devise or update a business plan at little or no cost. Details: www.smallbusiness.nsw.gov.au. Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/small-business/growing/ten-expert-tipsfor-2013-20130128-2dfte.html#ixzz2RNOeWQTJ

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Consumer spending shows strong signs of recovery

sentiment measures showing confidence levels increasing since the latter part of 2012.

Australians are demonstrating a less cautious approach to spending money, with more consumers planning to use their credit cards this quarter, while savings will be less of a focus. The Dun and Bradstreet Consumer Credit Expectations Survey of Q2 2013 shows that savings are set to decline as consumers look towards credit spending.

The aggregate findings of other consumer sentiment measures show confidence levels have been improving over the past six months. With the RBA maintaining low interest rate levels, the unemployment rate relatively s t e a d y, h o u s e p r i c e s recovering and a bullish sharemarket, consumers are signalling that the positives outweigh the negatives and consequently are willing to spend more freely on credit.

Shrugging off an enduring mood of financial conservatism, 41 per cent of consumers intend to use their credit card for purchases they couldn't otherwise afford in the months ahead. This is the highest level in three years and suggests that pockets of optimism in the economy are making consumers less cautious about how they spend. In addition to increased spending on credit, Australians are expected to turn away from saving more money. With a five per cent fall from the previous quarter, 26 per cent of consumers now indicate they are more likely to save money compared to the same time last year, while 31 per cent are less likely.

Although consumers plan to increase their use of credit cards, they are not expecting their financial position to be negatively affected. The Consumer Credit Expectations Survey also shows the number of people expecting difficulty meeting their credit obligations unchanged at 34 per cent for the third consecutive quarter. The number of people expecting their level of household debt to be higher during the quarter is also flat, at 19 per cent.

While the economy's performance has been patchy in the post-GFC world, consumers appear encouraged by the absence of any immediate or pervasive negative news, with other consumer

Consumers' plans for credit card use suggest the recent focus of debt reduction could be about to end, which bodes well for ongoing growth in consumer demand.

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Cloud computing gives small businesses a 106% productivity boost: Study Small businesses that use cloud computing were 106% more likely to see a revenue rise in the past year, according to new MYOB research, although only 16% actually use cloud computing in their business. These figures are from the March 2013 MYOB Business Monitor, which is based on a survey of 1005 SMEs, from sole traders to mid-sized companies, across major industry sectors. While only 16% of the businesses surveyed said they use cloud computing in business, this is up from 14% in MYOB's July 2012 report. Those who do use cloud computing were 106% more likely to see a revenue rise in the past year than those who don't, up from 53% in July. Business operators in the cloud were not only more likely to see a revenue rise in the past year, they were more likely to expect one in the next year (37% versus 28%). They were also more positive about the domestic economy improving within 12 months (33% versus 23%). However, it's not clear how direct a correlation there is between cloud computing and revenue, given the differing performance levels of the sectors that typically use, or don't use, the software. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

MYOB chief executive Tim Reed said he is surprised fewer than one in every six of the respondents said they use cloud computing in business. “It's obvious that as time goes on Australian business operators using cloud computing are increasingly likely to achieve positive financial results,” Reed said in a statement. “Our research findings provide a clear-cut case for embracing online technologies in business. The gap in financial performance is widening between the online-savvy and the online-cautious.” Of the businesses surveyed that do not use cloud computing, the most common reason was, “I don't know enough about it to make the right business decisions about

it” (35%). Ranked second was “I am not very tech-savvy and don't feel confident about even starting to look at it for my business” (22%), followed by “It is of interest, but there are many more important other business priorities to take care of first” (21%). Cloud computing isn't the only area businesses are falling down in. The MYOB research reveals only 38% have a business website – the same percentage recorded in the July report. This is despite the fact that businesses with websites were 60% more likely to see a revenue rise in the past year, up from 53% in July. Other recent MYOB research found the main reason why SMEs without a website hadn't set one up was, “We prefer to advertise and market our business using other methods” (68%). This was followed by “It's not a priority right now, we have all the work we can handle” (66%) and “We don't see any value in having a business website” (60%). Interestingly, small businesses (five to 19 employees) were the second least likely to use cloud computing (5%) but the most likely to have a business website (66%). South Australia had the highest proportion of cloud users (22%) and business website owners (42%). In the prior report, NSW had the highest proportion of cloud users (15%) while Queensland had the highest proportion of business website owners (47%). The findings come on the back of another study, published recently by Deloitte for search engine Google, which found only 16% of businesses are highly engaged with the Internet. More than a third (35%) of businesses are not engaged with the Internet at all, despite the report finding businesses that use the Internet as a key business tool are twice as likely to be growing as those that don't. Businesses engaged with the Internet earn 20% more, or $350,000, than those that are not engaged with the Internet, according to the report. This article first appeared on StartupSmart.

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APJ 119


RESPONDING TO THE EXPLOSION OF MOBILE DEVICES UPDATE YOUR WEBSITE AND CREATE A BUSINESS APPS

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With the explosion of smart phones and tablets, more and more people are opting to access the Internet from a mobile device. If your current website is not able to automatically reformat itself to accommodate the different screen sizes the end result will be a frustrating experience. This ability to “automatically reformat itself to accommodate the different screen” is called “Responsive”. In the past you could maintain two different versions of your website, a ‘normal’ version to be viewed by a computer and a ‘mobile’ version for mobile devices. This was the strategy we at APAN had until this year. However, the extra work and expense to maintain two versions of the same website became too much and at the beginning of 2013 APAN changed their website to a responsive one.

Therefore as an added benefit to their members, APAN are now offering an inexpensive service to convert an existing website to a responsive one. If you would like a obligation free quote to do this contact Mark on 0412 177 423 or web@kharis.com.

As well as having a Responsive Website it is important to consider a smartphone App for your business. This is not simply a “mobile website” that some companies have been passing off as Mobile Apps – it is a true smartphone software program available for both Apple and Android devices. Your business App is your complete mobile information, contact and communication centre and can be used in many different ways to increase your profit by driving business to your door.

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Therefore as an added benefit to their members, APAN are offering an service to create an Apple and Android smartphone App for your business. Call Mark on 0412 177 423 or email him at apps@kharis.com to discuss this further.

Five reasons to be cheerful about the economy Economic news has been largely doom and gloom over the past few years, but there are five reasons the Australian economy is moving towards happier days. SME profits are on the rise, unemployment figures are steady and consumer confidence is on the up, collectively spelling good times in the future for Australian businesses. Shane Oliver, chief economist and head of investment strategy at AMP Capital Investors, believes that according to key indicators we can expect the economy to do better. Here are his five reasons:

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1. SME profits increasing Australian SMEs are performing well with 54% posting profit increases in the six months to December. The findings released recently by the Entrepreneurs' Organisation reflected overall positivity among Australian SMEs in terms of market sentiment and net profits. The survey indicated 82% of Australian EO members expected an increase in revenue growth in the next six months and 76% predicted an increase in net profits. Oliver says the economic health of SMEs is vital to the Australian economy. "SMEs are always important because that's where the jobs and the growth and the profit increases come from. SMEs are the lifeblood of the economy. We were given a huge boost from the mining boom, but now it's ending the focus will be back on the SMEs to drive the economy in the future," he says.

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2. Consumer confidence rising

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The Westpac consumer confidence survey released recently showed the biggest jump in consumer confidence since September 2011. The February Westpac-Melbourne Institute consumer sentiment index shows confidence is up 7.7 points to 108.3, its highest level in 26 months. The biggest boost came from people aged 18-24, whose sentiment increased 32% on the index, and sales and clerical staff also increased by the same amount. Oliver says the rise in consumer confidence is influenced by a range of factors. "I think it's a combination of things, the economic impact from the European crisis (particularly in Spain and Italy) is fading and consumers are hearing more positive stories about China and the US and so the negativity is being removed. They've also noticed the size of the sharemarket increasing and the housing market is also doing well, adding to an increased feeling of household wellbeing. Lower interest rates over

the past year have also contributed to this confidence. The older demographics living in the suburbs with a mortgage have had a huge boost from the low interest rates, so their finances are looking better," he says.

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3. Sharemarket above 5,000

For the first time in three years, the share market closed above 5,000 recently night, following strong profits from the Commonwealth Bank. The market has been steadily moving towards the 5,000 mark for the past few months, with the market generally performing well or remaining steady on a daily basis. Oliver says people should look to the market as a reliable indicator of the economy. "The share market is historically a good indicator for the economy. The fact that it's turned upward over the past year is a sign growth will pick up and this has been reflected in some companies' results too," he says.

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4. Retail results improving A little bit of welcome news goes a long way in the retail world. The retailers’ profits increased by 3% to $82.1 million in the six months to December and since the start of the year their shares have increased by around 21%. "I think all these indicators are consistent with a turn for the better for the Australian economy. We may have a rough patch over the next six months because it can take a while for spending to pick up, but by the year's end it will be positive," he says.

5. Unemployment rate steady Australian unemployment figures have remained steady at 5.4% in January, according to the Australian Bureau of Statistics. Unemployment rates have been recorded since 1978 and the average rate has been 6.97%, making current figures below the 35-year average. Oliver says fewer people are looking for jobs than before and these people aren't accounted for in the unemployment figures. "There has been a fall in the participation rate which isn't accounted for in the figures. Job seekers have given up looking for jobs. The participation rates indicate the size of the labour force relative to population has declined. If the participation rate had stayed where it was in 2011, then the unemployment rate would be about 6% now. Unemployment is always one of the last things to improve," he says.

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APJ 120


APAN Professional Membership JOIN NOW AND SAVE

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enabled me to overcome my challenges and to CONTINUE TO GROW my business despite difficult economic times.

I love an organisation that is committed to excellence! For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 | Email info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com and download a Membership Application Form.

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starperformer ㄰

Mirabella Beauty releases NEW trend collection

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Face Pigments and Mascara to brighten your Winter Wardrobe

Mirabella Beauty announces the launch of new Neon Muse face pigments and mascara! Featuring three new products available from May, the Neon Muse line is designed to make runway-ready looks wearer-friendly, taking the neon trend and giving it a more romantic feel. Neon Muse Face Pigments are available in two shades, I Believe in Pink and Tale of Tangerine. The innovative loose-powder formula contains conditioning ingredients to soften skin. Both highly pigmented hues can be used all over the face, with either a wet application for bright colour with a sharper finish, or a dry application for a more pearlescent look.

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Neon Muse Mascara features a double wand, with electric blue mascara on one end and green on the other. These vibrant, shiny hues can be worn alone or layered over a classic black base for a touch of pigment. The formula allows for easy layering, with fade-resistant colour. Film-forming agents help to set lashes without drying or stiffness, while humectants provide moisture. “Neon has been seen all over the runway, but in its current incarnation, the colour can often look garish,” explains Amber Bowen, Mirabella Creative Director. “The Neon Muse products incorporate neon pigments, but are designed for a more ethereal, softer overall look. “The pink and tangerine face pigments should be offset by the green or blue mascara,” adds Bowen. “These shades are all about contrast! However, the rest of your makeup, hair and even clothing should be more romantic. With a long-lasting colour formula, no touch-ups are

needed. To really play up the trend, try the whole collection! Or, keep it simple and freshen up your look by adding a single neon element.”

CLEAN, LUXURY PRODUCTS Mirabella is committed to providing high-quality, mineral-based prestige products using only the finest ingredients.

MODERN COLORS An extensive array of colours can achieve any desired look, from classic and timeless to fun and fashion-forward. A wide range of shades ensures women of all skin tones will find their perfect match.

QUALITY, INNOVATIVE FORMULAS

The newest formulations and latest in cosmetic technology is used to create exciting and exclusive products, that are great for your skin.

Mirabella Beauty products are designed for professional salons and clinics offering quality makeup to complete a skincare program available at professional salons, spas or clinics. Please visit www.absolutespa.com.au or call 1300 262 275.

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APJ Vol 17 2013  

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 17 Winter 2013 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)

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