APJ Vol 12 2012

㤵 㜵

㈵

㤵 㜵

㈵

2012

Autumn Issue Volume 12.

㄰

Aesthetics Practitioners J ournal Jo urnal

㄰

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal

㄰ 㤵 㜵

The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ISSN: 1836-9812

Autumn Issue Volume 12. 2012

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Created By Nature Perfected By Science

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND ㄰

PRODUCTS 8 62-64 66-67 78-81 84-85 86-91

㤵 㜵

㈵

CEO's Heart 2 Heart Report A Business Transformation Changes and Reviews for the Australian Aesthetics Industry Product Innovations Business On the Go Aesthetics Bulletin

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

REGULATIONS, EDUCATION, TREATMENTS

AND TECHNOLOGY

10-11

Identifying and defining Industry Standards and Regulations for the use of IPL and Laser services 48-51 The trauma that heals and rejuvenates - Collagen Induction Therapy 68-70 Sensuous Lips - How to get them with a Cosmetic Tattoo Treatment 72-76 Essential oils in Skincare for the Clinician 100-101 Making a difference to Skin Health and Wellness 102-103 Wellness trends and anti-ageing therapies 108-109 Achieving perfect eyebrows

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, ANTI-AGEING AND INGREDIENTS 30-31 32-33 42-44

A new breakthrough in L-Ascorbic Acid and super nutrients Hormonal changes and their impact on Menopausal Skin Educating your clients on the role of Vitamin B3 in skin therapy 52-54 How to revolutionise your success in Skin Health and Wellness 58-59 Two powerful technologies 92-96 Reviewing new research findings on Vitamin D, Sun and Skin Damage 112-113 The Hidden Dangers of Business Loss and Profitability

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 12 14 16-18 19 24-25 26-28 46-47 56-57 60 82-83 97-99

Achieving business growth through credible referrals Ask the Expert Business in Brief Offering you great protection when you travel Good fortune comes to those who prepare Winning the sale with High Quality Performance Products Is your business fit and profit healthy?

Individual Flexible Arrangements Business Coaching with a Personal Touch New National Business Names Registration System Identifying and Developing the Culture that contributes to your unique Client Experience - Part II 104-105 Fair Work Compliance - A salon's case study 106-107 The Power of Choice

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 6-7 34-37

㈵

87-89

APJ 4

Australasian Integrative Aesthetics Workshop 2012 Are you winning against the odds? New Horizons Regional Conference & Expo Townsville 2012 International Aesthetic Show Calendar

㈵

㄰

Editor Tina Viney 07 5593 0360

㄰

㤵 㜵

㈵

㤵

Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com Mark Viney Phone: 0412 177 423 Email: apj@apanetwork.com Fax: 07 5593 0367 Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Produced for Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169 Web: www.apanetwork.com Print Post Approved.

Circulation 6000 Accounts Manager Laraine Coyle 02 8004 5936 accounts@apanetwork.com Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd (APAN) PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt (Education) Wendy Neely (PR & Marketing) Dr Douglas Grose (Scientific) Caroline Nelson (Business) National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Kathleen Begley Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-9812

㄰

㜵

㈵

Welcome to APJ

The aesthetic industry is indeed undergoing a transformation, as no doubt we all are, as we navigate through choices available to us to position ourselves in this new era of change. Social media is changing the way we do business and the way that consumers are connecting with us. But the personal element of human contact and communication will always be valued.

For this reason we are seeing a new sector on emotional intelligence that is now taking centre stage in the modern model of business skills development that includes strategies that will help us improve our interactive skills. These are often vehicles for personal growth, appreciation for others and increased joy and satisfaction in the lives of those who experience us and our business.

With the borderless nature of technology, we can literally impact the globe, and with that choice we can change lives. Human nature needs and will always need the beauty of the human touch and at the core of aesthetics as a profession is that human element – personal touch and compassionate communication.

While technology is constantly pushing the boundaries of treatment possibilities for which we need to gain greater knowledge and understanding, let us also not neglect to invest in our personal development. In this issue of APJ we have several articles that address the human element of business.

I trust that these articles can offer you food for thought and allow you to embrace some new concepts that will not only improve your business dealings, but also enrich your personal life.

articles to nurture you as an individual as well as a professional, so I trust you will use the information to your advantage.

We have included some ingredient research articles with special emphasis on clinical aromatherapy as this is also an area that is gaining momentum.

Mounting evidence is also supporting the impact of toxicity in human health, disease, acceleration of ageing and compromised treatment outcomes.

For this reason introducing protocols that take this into consideration is highly recommended, and we encourage you to review this issue and look into how you can best fit such protocols in your treatment procedures.

In every way we attempt to keep you informed of new principles that are shaping our industry and trust that we can offer you the support you need to continue to grow and prosper.

This is the first issue of APJ for 2012. I trust it will stimulate your possibility thinking and be a valuable tool towards a very successful year.

Thrive in your profession and enjoy life!

Much thought and research goes into compiling this publication as we want to ensure you are kept up-to- http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page date with progress. As always, we also include

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

㄰

㤵 㜵

㈵

㤵

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

Cover:

MILA D'OPIZ 㜵

Phone: 1300 464 523 Email: info@boutiquemonique.com.au Web: www.boutiquemonique.com.au

㈵

Please also see page 20-22 for further details.

APJ 5

Inner Architectural Builds Beauty ㄰ 㤵

Sunday, August 19, 2012, Sofitel on Collins, Melbourne

㜵

A EVENT NOT TO BE MISSED!

㈵

Aestheticians are rapidly expanding their care protocols to look at the underlying biological causes of problem skin, according to DeboraDale Young a consulting pharmacist and lecturer in the field of integrative medicine.

Ms Young says Aestheticians are quickly discovering that pinpointing the root of skin problems is essential to creating the strong long-term “architecture” for truly healthy skin. “Aestheticians are specialists in the correcting dermatological conditions but the impact of underlying health in skin condition can't be ignored,” Ms Young said.

“To maintain healthy glowing skin and retard the signs of ageing, the client must have good biological health support. It's like putting new paint on an old building. We know that the paint will peel rapidly if the foundation structure is deteriorating. Post graduate training in Anti-Ageing Medicine can provide Aestheticians with the tools to build the right health architecture for their clients. “These tools will help you deliver the results paramount to the health and wellbeing of clients.” “We must focus on the whole body to help our clients achieve optimum health and longevity.”

The AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine Integrative & Aesthetic Medicine Workshop 2012, in Melbourne on August 19, is a unique opportunity to add evidence-based Anti-Ageing protocols to your business and broaden your service offering. To be presented by the leading practitioners, the Workshop will help health professionals stay current with the latest advances in Health and Aesthetic practices. The Workshop is a key feature of the 6th Annual AustralAsian Conference in Anti-Ageing Medicine Conference Integrative Health & Longevity.

WORKSHOP SESSIONS Anti-Ageing Medicine & Longevity – An Introduction

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

Integrative & Aesthetic Medicine Workshop 2012

Anti-Ageing Medicine presents a powerful integrative tool to prevent, detect and treat age-related diseases and disorders. The 2012 Workshop will give you a good understanding of Anti-Ageing Medicine and how we age.

Topics in these sessions will include biochemistry and organ function, chronic disease and lifestyle factors, hormonal imbalances, diagnostic protocols and pathology testing.

Affects of Nutrition and Detoxification on the Ageing Process Nutrition and detoxification are critical to optimal health outcomes and slowing the

APJ 6

ageing process. nutritional deficiencies and toxicity will inevitably manifest in dermatological issues. This session will include key presentations on the affects of nutritional deficiencies and detoxification, consequences of the inability to detoxify and how to implement detoxification and nutritional strategies to restore health.

Metabolic Disorders and the Ageing Process Disorders of the metabolic system are a major impetus for the destructive ageing process for the body. Understanding how to diagnose, test and restore good metabolic health is essential for all health professionals. Presentations for this session will focus on diabetes and insulin resistance, obesity and metabolic syndrome and cardiovascular disease. Understand the underlying causes and pathways that lead to these disorders and how to implement integrative medicine protocols to overcome them.

OTHER HIGHLIGHTS WILL INCLUDE: Anti-Ageing & Aesthetics

! !

Cosmetic Chemistry and advances in Ingredient formulations Best Practice and Techniques for Dermal Fillers & Relaxers

Build your business with Anti-Ageing Medicine

!

Proven Business and Marketing strategies for your Business

FURTHER STUDIES This workshop will provide an overview of material presented in the AustralAsian Certification In Anti-Ageing Medicine.

Designed for all health professionals, the Australasian Certification In Anti-Ageing Medicine offers comprehensive post-graduate qualifications in Anti-Ageing Medicine. All delegates of the Integrative & Aesthetic Medicine Workshop 2012 will receive 5% off their first module of the AustralAsian Certification In Anti-Ageing Medicine.

The Certification will help you:

! ! ! !

Integrate Preventative Health Protocols Into Your Care Optimise The Health Of Your Clients Expand Your Post-Graduate Credentials Boost Your Business & Attract New Clients

㤵 㜵

ABOUT THE 6TH ANNUAL AUSTRALASIAN CONFERENCE IN ANTI-AGEING MEDICINE CONFERENCE The 2012 A5M Conference presents a comprehensive multi-stream scientific, research and clinical program in Internal & Aesthetic Medicine with an extensive medical exposition.

㈵

The AustralAsian Integrative & Aesthetics full day Workshop in association with Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) provides a third stream.

Presentations from the leaders in Preventative and Aesthetic Medicine include new and emerging techniques in facial rejuvenation, laser, diagnostic technologies, stem cell therapies, hormone replacement, compounding pharmaceuticals for healthy ageing, Nutritional Detoxification and Nutrigenomics.

Keynote speaker, Dr Joseph C Maroon, world expert Neurosurgeon and Sports Medicine Physician, Dr Joseph Maroon is an international specialist in the treatment of injuries and disease of the brain and spine. He is an acclaimed neuroscientist and surgeon and offers an authoritative source on how we can shift from the current paradigm of ageing to a disease-free age of health, longevity and fitness.

Register before May 30, 2011 to go into the draw to win an iPad for your business.

Integrative & Aesthetic Medicine Workshop 2012 Sunday, August 19, 2012 Sofitel on Collins, Melbourne EARLY BIRD SPECIAL* A5M MEMBER: NON-MEMBER:

$450.00* $500.00*

SPECIAL PACKAGE DEAL* AESTHETIC WORKSHOP PLUS A5M 1-DAY CONFERENCE REGISTRATION Early Bird: A5M MEMBER: $800* (normally $945) Early Bird: NON-MEMBER: $945* (normally $1,080)

㄰ 㤵 㜵

* Valid only until 3 June 2012

For more information go to www.a5m.net REGISTER TODAY! Win an iPad! All the latest protocols at the slide of your fingers.

Web: www.a5m.net Phone: +61 3 9813- 0439 Phone: 03 9813 0439 Email: enquiries@a5m.net

㈵

INVITATION TO PARTICIPATE SOFITEL MELBOURNE ON COLLINS, 19 AUGUST

WHY ATTEND

The greatest challenge we face today as practitioners is staying current with rapid advances in Health & Aesthetic practices.

Delivering optimal service & results is paramount to the health and wellbeing of our clients.

• World class speakers • Major topics in Anti-Ageing • Evidence-based Practice • New treatment paradigms & protocols • Enhanced treatment outcomes • Expand Your Credentials • Improve Your Professional Standing • Boost Your Practice & Optimise Your Patient Care

The AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine Integrative & Aesthetic Medicine Workshop 2012 is a unique opportunity to add evidence-based Anti-Ageing protocols to your business and broaden your service offering, presented by the leading practitioners in Anti-Ageing, Longevity & Aesthetics.

1 DAY COURSE, 7 LECTURES. LEARN THE BASICS OF ANTI-AGEING & AESTHETIC MEDICINE

WHO SHOULD ATTEND?

- Managing Nutrition for optimum Internal & Aesthetic health - Detoxification, toxicity and the effects on the ageing process

All health & Aesthetic Professionals who wish to improve patient care and expand their services including: • Aestheticians • Cosmetic & Plastic Surgeon Assistants • Dermal Clinicians & Paramedicals • General Nurse Practitioners • Naturopaths & Nutritionists • Allied Health Professionals • Pharmacists • Practice Managers

Metabolic Disorders and the Ageing Process

BETTER HEALTHCARE, BETTER PATIENT OUTCOMES

WORKSHOP SESSIONS Anti-Ageing Medicine & Longevity – An Introduction - Understanding pathways to ageing and the impact on internal & aesthetic health - Hormones, issues and the effects on the skin and weight Affects of Nutrition and Detoxification on the Ageing Process

- Obesity, weight loss treatments & protocols; Cardiovascular disorders & the effects on the ageing process.

Anti-Ageing & Aesthetics - Cosmetic Chemistry & advances in Ingredient formulations - Best Practice & Techniques for Dermal Fillers & Relaxers Build your business with Anti-Ageing Medicine - Proven Business & Marketing strategies for your Business

FURTHER STUDIES This workshop will provide an overview of material presented in the AustralAsian Certification In Anti-Ageing Medicine.

Register Today!

Early Bird Special A5M MEMBER:

$450.00*

NON-MEMBER:

$500.00*

Special Package Deal AESTHETIC WORKSHOP + STANDARD 1-DAY CONFERENCE REGISTRATION

The AustralAsian Certification In Anti-Ageing Medicine offers comprehensive post-graduate qualifications in Anti-Ageing Medicine.

Early Bird A5M MEMBER: Early Bird NON-MEMBER:

The Certification will help you:

* Valid only until 3 June 2012

$800 (normally $945) $945 (normally $1,080)

- Integrate Preventative Health Protocols Into Your Care - Optimise The Health Of Your Clients - Expand Your Post-Graduate Credentials - Boost Your Business & Attract New Clients For more information go to www.a5m.net

SPECIAL OFFER Integrative & Aesthetic Medicine Workshop 2012 delegates will receive 5% off their first module of the AustralAsian Certification In Anti-Ageing Medicine.

Win an iPad! All the latest protocols at the slide of your fingers.

Register before May 5, 2012 to go into the draw to win an iPad for your business.

㄰

CEO’s Heart 2 Heart REPORT

㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Dear Colleagues and Friends

I trust that this year is shaping up to be a good one and that you are on track with your goals and aspirations. Hindrances will always exist, but where there is a will there is a way. I am a firm advocate that while life can bring challenges we can choose to ensure that a positive attitude will steer us through to a breakthrough for the better.

AD

RESULTS OF SURVEY

ORK

TW

S

CTITIO NE PRA RS

AESTHETIC

VISORY NE

The world is moving so fast these days that the man who says it can’t be done is generally interrupted by someone doing it.

Harry Emerson Fosdick

Last year APAN conducted a survey to determine your needs and wants. It was great that so many of you responded. The survey was also repeated in the last issue of APJ (on the back of the cover sheet), with many more responding with your thoughts and opinions. I would like to take this opportunity to thank all those who supported us by completing this survey. We appreciated your thoughts and we will be seriously looking at your recommendations.

Here is a brief summary of what was scored the highest: Generic education scored the highest - 99% said yes Someone to turn to for expert advice - 98% said yes Credibility from an organisation also scored very high - 97% said yes Updating qualifications scored 98% Anti-ageing procedures - 94% said yes Most also said they are more interested in the speaker's topic than who they are - 93%

! ! ! ! ! !

EDUCATIONAL EVENTS Whatever the modalities you practise, one of the best ways to grow your confidence and your reputation as an expert is to continually invest in your education. You owe this to your clients and to yourself. We have two great high-quality events that I would personally urge you to attend and which I would be happy to back with my reputation.

If you want to gain credible knowledge on anti-ageing please check out pages 6-7 in this journal and attend the Australasian Integrative & Aesthetics Workshop staged by the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) and sponsored by APAN. I guarantee you the information you will gain will be of the highest calibre and one of the best investments of the year. If you are an APAN member please mentioned this for your discount.

Once again, APAN is staging its annual Conference and Expo event. New Horizons this year will be held in Townsville, Queensland as many in the region have requested that we support them (see pages 34-39). We have a great program for you and we encourage you to prioritise this one as well. This event is for you regardless of what State you are from.

We know you will gain a great deal from this program as it aims to empower you with amazing new information and great tools to support your professional journey and your business.

WELCOMING NEW MEMBERS For all members who have renewed with us this year we are delighted to service your needs and to continue to grow your membership benefits. Welcome to all our new APAN members who have joined our community of practice. I trust that we can give you the support you need to confidently pursue your career and your business. Please note that at any time you are most welcome to contact us and take advantage of our expertise and services. Whatever we develop is for your benefit.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Committed to your progress ㈵

㈵

Chief Executive Officer

APJ 8

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

For further details contact Circadia by Dr Pugliese ㈵

1800 247 223 or Angela on 0409 238 119

㈵

industrystandards ㄰

APJ1: Laser and IPL treatments have been embraced by consumers, but from time to time there is negative attention from the media reporting burns and treatment that have gone wrong. What advice would you give someone wanting to introduce these services to their clients, while ensuring that they are delivering a high standard of treatment result as well as safety?

Matt: This is a complicated and difficult question to answer. In the

end, to ensure IPL and laser operators are offering effective and safe treatments, there are a number of areas that should be addressed.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

These include: a. The quality of the device b. The education and training the operator has undertaken c. The skills of the operator d. The communication the operator establishes with the client so they have realistic expectations and they comply with appropriate pre and post-treatment guidelines.

Unlike lasers, there has been no international standard to which IPL manufacturers were required to adhere to. This has meant that there is a huge variation in the quality of the IPL devices being sold. It is very difficult for someone who has not previously worked with IPLs or lasers to ascertain the build-quality of a device. This is even more difficult when all of the distributors, from the cheapest device to the most expensive, are making the same claims about the clinical capabilities of their device.

Identifying and defining INDUSTRY STANDARDS and REGULATIONS For the use of IPL and LASER services While the popularity of light-based therapies are constantly on the rise, so also is the adamant focus of the media to profile these practices as being highly risky and dangerous. Without regulations there is no safeguard against such volatility.

Recognising this, APAN is vigilant in pursuing the government and being vocal about the need for regulations. In this regard it is supported also by other professional bodies and stakeholders as this continues to become a contentious issue and one that the government appears to be uninterested in placing it as a high enough priority.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Additionally, APAN is strongly supporting the development of advanced formal education to "qualify" practitioners with the necessary theoretical and practical competencies in not only the safe use of laser and IPL, but also in treatment optimistion to defend the integrity of this practice as well as provide safer treatment options to the consumer. Meanwhile, identifying industry-endorsed standards and alerting the industry to these is the next best defence strategy.

Matt Moncrieff, director of High Tech Laser, is well aware of the challenges facing the industry. We discussed the concerns through a compelling interview with him that reveals some sound recommendations to both those who already have IPL or laser devices, as well as to potentially interested parties.

Thankfully, an international standard will soon be in place that will require IPL manufacturers to design and build their devices to meet a fairly rigorous set of guidelines. This is long overdue and in time should make quite a difference to the quality of the devices being sold in Australia and the rest of the world.

Regarding training, this is a contentious issue and there is no easy answer.

For some time now there have been a number of accredited courses being offered by colleges that usually ran for five consecutive days.

However, at the end of 2011 the new SIB70110 Vocational Graduate Certificate in Intensive Pulsed Light and Laser Hair Reduction was introduced. As the title of the course implies, it does not include skin rejuvenation. No doubt a similar graduate certificate for rejuvenation will be available in the near future.

It is essential that operators complete this sound theoretical education and background in light-based physics. However, issues still arise if the candidate who undertakes these courses has not been also trained specifically on the model of device they are planning to purchase or have purchased, during whichever generic course they attend to achieve the appropriate certification. Every brand of light-based device is different, especially IPLs, so it is vital that at some point prior to performing treatments unsupervised operators receive comprehensive practical training using the device they have bought.

In my opinion this should fall to the supplier of the device to provide this training.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 10

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Worryingly, there are some distributors who do not provide any training as part of the sale of their device. In combination with this, there are IPL and laser operators who have purchased a new piece of equipment and begun using it without insisting the distributor provide them with the necessary training. In my experience this is a dangerous practice that invariably has negative consequences for the potential clients or patients.

㈵

Taking this into account, I would suggest that even when the industry is appropriately regulated, it is important for operators to not only complete the designated course, they should also receive practical training in the specific device they plan to use.

APJ2: As you have mentioned, staff turnover can present a significant problem for clinics when they lose trained IPL or laser technicians. How do you assist clinics to train new staff?

Matt: We are fortunate that the size of High Tech Laser's user base allows us to provide training at reasonable costs. We have a regular training calendar so that clinics can send their new operators to ensure they are up to speed before being required to perform consultations and treatments.

Unfortunately, many purchasers of IPL don't consider this fact when they are buying a device and they can be caught by costly training fees, As for the matter of client/patient education, it is important that the or worse, have no access to additional training. If an IPL/laser supplier practitioner provide the potential has a relatively small install base it client with accurate information on is unlikely they are going to have Another contributing factor to problems the realistic treatment outcomes the capability to support any and brief them on the pre and post- arising is the issue of staff turnover and this regular training. treatment instructions they will is a major concern. IPL and laser require need to follow. It is also very Anyone considering investing in specialised training and this can be a important that the practitioner be an IPL or laser device should bear prepared to tell the potential client financial concern. Business owners often this in mind before making a or patient that they are not suitable decision about which device to for the treatment should this be the overlook or ignore the need to train the new purchase. case. This is a critical point in the staff members appropriately when it comes process, and clients not being to lasers and IPLs. In my experience, some APJ3: Do you cater for the suitable for treatment is often the reason that treatments are either business owners are reluctant to invest the aesthetic industry only or do ineffectual or harmful to the person you also cater for medical appropriate time to ensure that the new undergoing the treatment. practitioners and how do the

staff member has the necessary

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

devices or training differ?

Another contributing factor to competencies to deliver the treatment to the Matt: There are certain devices problems arising is the issue of staff appropriately safe and efficacious levels. and treatments that are limited to turnover, and this is a major doctors. The reasons for the concern. IPL and laser require limitations on these devices and treatments are often related to the specialised training and this can be a financial concern. Business specific knowledge required to accurately screen clients prior to owners often overlook or ignore the need to train the new staff treatment, or the invasiveness and potential side-effects of the members appropriately when it comes to lasers and IPLs. In my treatment itself. This means that differences in training are largely experience, some business owners are reluctant to invest the related to the type of device and treatments it can perform. appropriate time to ensure that the new staff member has the necessary competencies to deliver the treatment to the appropriately safe and Devices such as the DOT therapy fractional laser and CoolSculpting efficacious levels. This is often due to the fact that the business owner non-invasive fat reduction lasers are examples of devices that only a is only focusing on their return on investment of the device and at the doctor can purchase. They are both highly effective and minimally expense of the correct delivery of the treatments. I believe that this is invasive but the skills of a medical professional are needed in the one of the factors that leads to the horror cases we see in the media. initial assessment and the care of the patient following the treatment.

IN SUMMARY THIS IS THE ADVICE I WOULD GIVE: Purchase a quality device that can successfully do the treatments that you have identified as the most important for your business. Most quality devices with sound engineering are made in either Europe or the USA. You might be surprised to know that you do not need to spend huge amounts of money to purchase a good quality machine.

㄰

Attend an approved training course ensuring that you gain the all important physics and underpinning knowledge, and also ensure that you receive the correct training using the device you will be using in your business.

㤵 㜵

㈵

It is also important that during your client's consultation you accurately communicate to them what they can realistically expect from the treatment and ensure they are also given the appropriate pre and post-treatment instructions. Furthermore, if they are not a good candidate for the treatment, be prepared to let them know that it will not be suitable for them.

APJ4: What are your thoughts on regulating the industry and what would you like to see established?

Matt: I certainly support the introduction of regulations, however, these should not be too complicated. Regulations should have as their primary objective to ensure the device operator has the skills and competencies to deliver safe and efficacious treatments that protect the consumer against dangerous treatment incidents or ineffectual results. ㄰

To achieve this all operators should be required to reach specific competency levels prior to being awarded with accreditation to legally use a laser or an IPL device. Additionally, all devices should meet with certain quality standards and be registered with the appropriate government body responsible for regulating the users and devices.

If you would like to speak to Matt Moncrieff or require further information on High Tech Laser equipment please phone: 1300 309 233.

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 11

business ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Achieving Business Growth through credible

REFERRALS A New Strategic Alliance Partnership between APAN and MacCredit ! Displayed as part of general category lists MacCredit is recognised as the largest financial lender to medical and In 2011 APAN approached MacCredit to make these services available also for the benefit of its members by providing affordable financial payment plans for clients of salons and clinics that can boost sales and business growth.

MACLIST has deliberately kept their category and procedure list as simple as possible. MacCredit specific market research, along with years of experience, demonstrates that the targeted “off the street patient” wants an easy way to find a doctor or a clinic, and they do not necessarily know the difference between technical terms or procedure names – they just know what they want fixed and improved.

A successful strategic alliance was established between APAN and MacCredit and this service has been an invaluable tool for APAN Members to sell treatment packages to their clients through a more flexible payment option, while ensuring that the salon receives full payment of the package up front.

As part of a SPECIAL OFFER, a listing on MACLIST, supplementing your existing marketing or Internet plan, will only cost you $50 per month (GST inclusive). This will allow you to receive direct referrals from individuals who are looking for an expert to achieve enhanced appearance and wellness benefits.

cosmetic medical practices.

NEW INITIATIVE

BENEFITS OF MACLIST

Now MacCredit is proud to launch the ultimate Internet Directory MACLIST. This initiative is the result of a growing database of – clients that MacCredit has secured over the years – happy clients who have been assisted to obtaining an affordable payment plan to undertake their appearance enhancement procedures. These clients are constantly on the lookout for the best and latest treatment and want access to the most qualified practitioners and this is where you come in.

!

YOUR OPPORTUNITY ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Each month MacCredit receives thousands of enquiries from prospective patients/clients, many of whom have not settled on a doctor or a practitioner as yet. A listing on MACLIST will give you an opportunity to be introduced to these potential clients. MACLIST will capture “hot leads” direct from MacCredit Internet, Facebook, referrals, etc as well as general Internet search engine traffic.

CLINIC LISTING WILL BE:

!

Displayed directly as results of searches matched on location, category and procedures performed

! ! ! ! ! ! !

Simple, direct and very easy to use functionality for each prospective client/patient Access to “Hot leads”. Not only random searches, but referred patients/clients who have sourced finance and are ready to book immediately for their treatments.

Well placed and managed Search Engine program Exclusive Directory. Listing numbers will be limited to quality clinics only, ensuring you don't get lost in the crowds.

Inception of this program is a great time to join because of the advantage of improved search to hit ratio.

Cost-effective way of gaining new clients – less than one client each quarter from MACLIST and the listing has paid itself.

Support will focus specifically on getting you more patients/clients, nothing more, nothing less.

Discounts available for multiple listings.

Please register your Clinic information at www.maclist.com.au or email your request to peter@maclist.com.au and request the MACLIST/APAN SPECIAL OFFER.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 12

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

ASK THE EXPERT

㈵

Solutions, insights and advice for problems that arise at work

At our clinic we encourage staff to invest in their education. Am I obligated to pay for their training or should this be covered by the individual?

When employing a staff member you will need to assess their skill levels and determine if their performance of the various procedures are up to the standard that you consider appropriate for your salon or clinic. If deficiencies are identified you will need to negotiate with your staff member about the need for further training.

Traditionally, if you would like them to deliver a certain treatment plan in which they are not familiar with you will need to invest and pay for their training, particularly if it is product related. However, you should include a clause in their workplace agreement that states that you will require for the staff member to remain in your employ for at least 24 months. In the event that they leave after 12 months they will need to reimburse you 50 per cent of your investment in their training.

If they leave in less than 12 months they will need to reimburse you the full amount. However, you will need to include this in their workplace agreement.

Furthermore, you should be encouraging your staff to also invest in their education and to pursue higher qualifications. You should not be paying for these fees, however, as an added incentive you could offer them a bonus or a raise once they qualify.

I recently had a major disagreement with a staff member, which we were not able to resolve, so I dismissed her and now she is talking about going to Fair Work to lodge an application for unfair dismissal. She is a good worker, but stubborn in certain areas. Is there any way at this stage that we could get assistance to resolve this issue?

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Wherever possible, Fair Work Australia does seek to resolve unfair dismissal applications by agreement. The key steps in the unfair dismissal application process are: 1. Employee lodges the application 2. The application is checked to ensure it is complete and valid 3. Employer is notified of the application 4. Employer completes response form, lodges it with FWA and serves it on the applicant 5. FWA conciliates the application to try to have the parties resolve it among themselves 6. An unresolved application is determined by FWA Once the employee's unfair dismissal application has been lodged with Fair Work Australia the employer should receive written notification of the application, information about the process Fair Work Australia will follow and an employer response form. The employee and the employer should also receive details of the time and date for the conciliation of the application.

㈵

Conciliation is an informal, private and generally confidential process where a FWA conciliator assists employees and employers to resolve an unfair dismissal application by agreement. The conciliator is independent and does not take sides, but works to bring the parties to an agreed resolution.

The style of each conciliator may vary but, in general, conciliation will include the following steps: ! the conciliator explains their role and the manner in which the conciliation is to be run ! each side briefly outlines their story, including what happened, any relevant facts and what they want ! the conciliator may allow or ask questions ! the circumstances, and any issues arising, are discussed. The conciliator may talk separately to the parties ! the conciliator assists the parties to reach agreement by identifying common ground, suggesting possible options and sometimes by making recommendations and assisting the parties in drafting an agreement in writing.

It is important that prior to the conciliation you review what you want to say at the conciliation about the unfair dismissal application and, if possible, send to FWA any documentary material you want considered at the conciliation.

The aim is for the two parties to resolve their difference. However, if the unfair dismissal application is not withdrawn or does not settle at or before the conciliation, the employer and the employee will each receive written notification from Fair Work Australia of any conferences or hearings to be held on the application.

The notification will include the time, date and location of any such conference or hearing. An application for an adjournment of the conference or hearing must be given in writing and provide full reasons for seeking the adjournment. Adjournment applications will only be granted on substantial grounds, otherwise both parties will be required to attend the hearing where Fair Work will determine the outcome.

If Fair Work Australia is satisfied an employee was unfairly dismissed then it may order the employee's reinstatement or the payment of compensation to the employee if satisfied that reinstatement is inappropriate.

㄰ 㤵

If we can assist you further please do not hesitate to contact APAN on 07 5593 0360.

If you would like your questions answered by an APAN Expert send them to the editor at info@apanetwork.com.

Your privacy will be maintained and your name will not be disclosed.

㜵

㈵

APJ 14

㄰

㄰

A

ORK

DV

E I S O RY N

APAN

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㜵

㈵

TW

㈵

S

㤵

CTI PRA TION

S ER

㜵

STHETI AE C

㤵

㄰

I am COMMITTED to EXCELLENCE in serving my clients APAN is COMMITTED to EXCELLENCE in meeting my needs That’s why I’m a CORPORATE PLATINUM MEMBER of APAN For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com Go to www.apanetwork.com and download a Membership Application Form.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

BUSINESS IN BRIEF

㜵

A snapshot of news and information for business owners ㈵

Customers and diversification is key for small to medium enterprises in 2012 Strengthening customer relationships and expanding business development activities will be the key objectives for Australian business owners in 2012, according to MYOB. In its recent business monitor research, 49 per cent of small to medium business owners are aiming for revenue growth, while 32 per cent would be happy to maintain their current levels and 13 per cent are focused on minimising losses in these areas.

“Customers will understandably remain the core focus for Australian SMEs in maintaining and strengthening their business health in 2012, with our research finding more than one-third of businesses are set to increase activity around attracting customers' attention and building their loyalty,” Tim Reed, MYOB CEO, said.

“What I found especially interesting was the insight we received into the importance these businesses place on driving growth through diversification. It makes sense for today's business owners, many of whom face increasingly financially conservative consumers, to foster

ACCC launches consumer rights campaign Salons who retail need to get their return policies in order after the new consumers rights have been introduced and enforced by the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC). As part of a national media campaign, the ACCC is urging consumers to be aware of their rights when they buy a product that is faulty or does not perform as described. The campaign is in response to research that shows only 10 per cent of consumers understand their rights when it comes to a faulty product or a substandard service.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

ACCC chairman Rod Sims said if a product is not right, consumers are entitled for it to be repaired, replaced or refunded. “We now have a single national law so that no matter where you shop in Australia you have the same rights to a repair, replacement or refund for a faulty product or unsatisfactory service,” he said.

“If products don't work as promised or don't work at all you have rights as a consumer, regardless of whether you bought it online, in a shop, full-price or on sale.”

The ACCC has introduced these rights, called Consumer Guarantees, and they are now in the Australian Consumer Law. Consumer Guarantees apply to new products, secondhand goods and sale items sold through retail and hire outlets or online. The guarantees also cover the supply of services.

a 'stickier' customer by providing more products or services to whet their appetite. For many it will be the key to their survival in a two-speed economy.”

㈵

Customer attraction, customer retention and diversifying their business into new areas were the key 2012 business development strategies for at least one-third of the 1000 plus Australian SMEs surveyed.

Other business elements survey respondents said they plan to increase activity for over the coming year include bringing business activity in new market areas (33 per cent), diversifying the number or variety of products or services offered by the business (29 per cent) and amount paid to staff (24 per cent).

“It also makes sense for SMEs to broaden their horizons into new markets, and to compete on a global scale where possible, providing their business with access to larger, more diverse audiences,” Reed said. “This is something the Internet and cloud computing easily facilitate if business owners have the right tools and resources at their disposal. We're seeing more and more operators benefit from getting their business online with a website. Our research shows those with a website generated 6 per cent more revenue in the previous 12 months than those without. The key is getting online, being found, communicating well to your online audience and in doing so getting solid access to the digital economy.”

“Retailers cannot have signs or policies that state 'no refunds' as they imply it is not possible to get a refund under any circumstance, when this is not the case.

“Businesses also cannot refer you to the manufacturer; they must help resolve the problem.

“These Consumer Guarantees are rock solid and apply regardless of any manufacturer’s or extended warranty.”

APAN has developed a 'REFUND POLICY' for the benefit of its members that complies with regulatory requirements. If you are a member of APAN we can post you a laminated copy of it for just $13 + $5 postage and handling. Just one of the many services that we have developed for the benefit of our members. Additionally, we also have over 40 documents that you can purchase at a small fee to assist in the efficient running of your business and to ensure your full compliance with State and Federal Laws.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

For further details phone 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com

APJ 16

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

HERE ARE EIGHT WAYS YOU SHOULD BE PREPARING YOUR BUSINESS FOR THE SMARTPHONE REVOLUTION: MOBILE SITE It's amazing how many businesses don't have a mobile site. Many don't think it necessary – they are wrong. If users can't open a site within a few seconds, they will leave. If your site is too clunky and large to load, then they will abandon you for a competitor. Having a slick mobile site means users get all the functionality of the real site with none of the fuss. Develop a simple mobile site that gives your customers all the application of your main web page. It's all about making sure the customer has easy access no matter where they are.

LOCATION As smartphones become more powerful people will start using them as pocket computers – they're already doing so now. And as a result, they will be searching for businesses on the go. Having millions of smartphones around your business means you need to get busy ensuring your salon or clinic is optimised for location. If you're a salon in say the Perth CBD then you want clients searching on their phones to find you in a Google search and then follow directions to your salon.

Google location profiles are built exactly for this purpose. You may not get a lot of business from it now, but optimising for location will pay off big in the long run.

COMMERCE

㜵

㈵

you haven't looked at creating an app for the major smartphone platforms then at least look into it. Apps are all about creating an experience that is dedicated to the smartphone, rather than having users just go on to a normal website through a smartphone browser.

Apps from companies such as Catch of the Day enable users to experience the offer the same way they would on a default web page, but it's so much faster and easier to access. This is an investment. But plenty of companies have succeeded – Domino's rakes in millions through its ordering app – and you owe it to your business to give it a try.

ADS The ads you see on your smartphone are not the same you see on a desktop. The experience is totally different, and you need to account for that. Experiment with different mobile ads to see which give you the best result. Smartphones are just another channel through which people shop, and like others such as print or television, smartphone ads require their own rules and structure.

MARKETING This is probably the easiest way to experiment with mobile. Plenty of companies are already using mobile marketing methods by sending SMS messages to remind customers of appointments or sales. You should do the same. As a services business, there's no harm in experimenting with a few different messages to see if you get a response. If it doesn't work, then move on – but at least you've tried.

For the retail side of the business it's a good idea to try and send some VIP offers through SMS. It adds an element of exclusivity, and will encourage more customers to sign up to your dedicated marketing list.

SEARCH Checked your SEO (search engine optimisation) lately? What about on a phone? Your rankings will appear different on a mobile than they will for a desktop search, so don't just assume that because you control one category you'll control it on a phone.

Do some experiments, work with your SEO manager and find out where exactly you sit on the mobile front. The longer you wait the longer a competitor will be sitting in the top spot.

Mobile payments are becoming a big deal. Companies in the US like FourSquare are innovating in this field, and closer to home even the big four banks are running trials to see if consumers respond well to paying with their phones. Are you able to accept mobile payments?

Even if it's as simple as putting a PayPal link on your mobile website, you need to be optimised. Make sure users have the ability to pay on their smartphones right now, and you'll be well in place for the next few years.

Services like FourSquare aren't necessarily as popular here as they are overseas, but they are still important. Remember, tourists use those services and they won't stop using them because they are in a different country, so it's important to list on as many of these popular services as you can.

APPS

Especially Facebook, which has included the ability for users to reference locations in their posts. You could even offer Facebook deals, which allow you to give discounts to users if they check-in to your salon via the social networking site.

㈵

㜵

New data from industry research house Telsyte shows that 10 million more smartphones will be in use by 2015, with the total number set to reach 18.5 million. By that time, nearly 90% of users will be using a smartphone as their primary device, up from the current level of just under 50%.

The growth of mobiles should cause business owners to pause. This is a significant shift in the way customers will consume and search for media. Are you ready for it?

㤵

㤵

Nearly 10 million more smartphones will enter the Australian market within the next four years, and businesses need to start preparing.

While the iPhone may be popular now, the next few years will see an amalgam of different handsets from manufacturers such as Samsung, Sony and HTC, while the Android and Windows Phone platforms will continue to grow. "Over the coming four years Telsyte estimates that more than 30 million smartphones will be sold in Australia, creating a vibrant and competitive market for vendors, carriers and retailers," research director Foad Fadaghi said in a statement.

㄰

㄰

Report tips smartphone explosion and eight ways you should be preparing

It's true that not every business needs to have an app, but many do. If

SOCIAL NETWORKING

㄰

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 17

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

New Consumer Trend towards specialty stores and services L a rg e m a l l - b a s e d retail chains such as Target and Kmart may face a difficult future as more consumers are turning towards dedicated specialty stores for their shopping, according to a new report from Macquarie Equities Research.

The report found that large discount department stores are underperforming. “Customers seem to be choosing depth (and service) in the merchandise offer, favouring quality and specialist advice rather than just bulk cheap purchases,” the report read. “We think there is emerging consumer preference for the deeper merchandise offers of specialties and have become distrustful of large format retail.”

This is good news for the beauty industry. Salons, that continue to grow their knowledge, education and profile themselves as experts in advice and services will be sought out by discerning consumers who are seeking expert recommendations, services and quality products.

Further research conducted by APAN has identified that with the ongoing price war we are seeing a flood of inferior products entering the fashion as well as the cosmetic market. Consumers, however, are no longer impressed at the prospect of cheap at the expense of quality. Market indicators are pointing to the trend of consumers identifying the value of quality as a more trusted investment.

Natural Compatibles enters its 20th year with new owners After nearly 20 years as a leading supplier of professional makeup to hair Louise Mucha, Pamela Andrews & Denise Richardson and beauty salons Australian makeup manufacturer and distributor Natural Compatibles enters a new chapter.

Experienced businesswoman Pamela Andrews has recently purchased the business and is ready to take it to the next phase. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Looking For A Grant Or Financial Assistance?

With the retirement of NC founder Denise Richardson, her beloved business was recently listed for sale. “The timing couldn't have been more perfect” explains Andres.

“When I saw NC advertised, I was looking to purchase my own business and really wanted to move back into the beauty industry after a period in food manufacturing.

Given my 18 years association with Natural Compatibles and strong rapport with Denise and National Educator Louise Mucha, I saw NC as a great opportunity.

Have a new idea and want advice, assistance, grants or other funding programs? It may be worthwhile to check with your State and Territory government, and in some cases from local councils. Generally there are few grants available for starting a business, and those that are available are competitive or are only available for specific circumstances. However, there are grants and other assistance available for activities such as expanding your business, research and development, innovation and exporting.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

You may also find it useful to contact an advisory service for information on what support is available for your business. If you're having trouble with running your business, whether it's for personal or financial reasons, it can help to contact a counselling service.

TWO VERY VALUABLE WEBSITES THAT OFFER GREAT RESOURCE INFORMATION ARE:

!

GRANT FINDER:

www.business.gov.au/Grantfinder/Grantfinder.aspx

!

ADVISOR FINDER:

www.business.gov.au/BusinessTopics/Grantsandassistance/Pages/Advis or-Finder.aspx The Grants and Assistance Finder helps you locate the grants and assistance programs most relevant to your business. By using the tool, you can narrow over 600 entries to those that you're most likely to be eligible for.

W E H AV E A W I N N E R As part of determining the views and opinions of the industry APAN recently conducted the AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS SURVEY to allow our members and readers to comment on what is important to them. All respondents were placed in a draw for a copy of the amazing book The Longevity Project by Howard S.Friedman PhD and Leslie R. Martin PhD. The winner of the draw was Jill St James from Frenchs Forest NSW. “As NC heads into its 20th year I am excited to spearhead this next phase for NC. My daughter Kasie is joining NC as we look at creating a new range of makup aimed at a younger clientele” enthuses Andrews. “The range will still be under the NC umbrella but will feature different packaging and name. This means we will be able to target all women, as NC will have products suitable for the young girl first experimenting with makeup to the mature woman who knows what colours and techniques work best for her”.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 18

New PRODUCT LAUNCH

㄰

㄰

㤵

㈵

Offering you greater protection when you travel A

DV

㈵

DELAYED LUGGAGE ALLOWANCE

ORK

S

CTI PRA TION

S ER

STHETI AE C

㜵

(a) Six hours

$0

(b) More than 24 hours

$500

(c) More than 72 hours

$1,000

TW

㜵

㤵

E I S O RY N

TRAVEL DELAY ACCOMMODATION $500 FLIGHT DELAY (a) 4 hours

$100

(b) Over 12 hours

$200

AFS Licenece 240954

ace insurance Flight cancellations, travel delays, misplaced baggage, all these are becoming more and more a frequent occurrence for which there is often inadequate protection. However, this is all about to change.

APAN is excited to announce in conjunction with The Sparrow Group/Insurance House Group and Ace Insurance a unique and highly competitive TRAVEL INSURANCE cover for APAN members, industry professionals and their friends and family.

HERE IS WHAT THIS COVER OFFERS YOU: ! For delays of more than 4 hours at the airport The Flight Delay benefits provide you with $100 for meal requirements and other necessities. If the delay persists for 12 hours you are entitled to another $200 to help alleviate the inconvenience.

! For delays at the airport for 8 hours with no alternative flight over night

This unique and innovative Travel Insurance product provides you with not only the standard cover of medical and luggage benefits but much more it now includes cover for travel DELAY RISKS.

㄰ 㤵

This new product offers you the ultimate travel protection through a SPECIAL comprehensive insurance that covers you when you need it, with the additional protection against the most frustrating of travel experiences being delayed at the airport.

The Travel Delay benefits allow you to book accommodation for up to $500.

! You've arrived but your bags have not The Baggage Delay benefit enables you to buy replacement necessities, first at 24 hours and then at 72 hours. ㄰

APAN Travel Insurance has been developed to provide you with comprehensive cover against travel delays, luggage loss, flights and medical emergencies.

㜵

㈵

㤵 㜵

For a small premium you now can travel with peace of mind. For further information visit www.apanetwork.com – In just five minutes you can complete your cover on-line.

AU GAW - Joint APAN Travel Insurance is issued and underwritten by ACE Insurance Limited ABN 23 001 642 020, AFSL No. 239687 (ACE), and promoted by Insurance House and Sparrow Insurance ACE and Insurance House only provide general advice, and do not consider your objectives, financial situation or needs. To decide if this product is right for you, read the ACE One Trip Travel Insurance Combined Financial Services Guide, Policy Wording and Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) and ACE Annual Travel Insurance Combined Financial Services Guide, Policy Wording and Product Disclosure Statement (PDS). Please also see the ACE Privacy Policy. Terms, conditions and exclusions apply.

APAN – Continuing to provide value-added products and services.

㈵

The Relaunching of

㄰ 㤵

MILA D'OPIZ

㜵

㈵

Swiss Innovation

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

With a long history that spans 74 years, the Swiss skincare company Mila d'Opiz is considered as one of the pioneers of quality skincare innovations, providing credible treatment solutions to skin concerns from acne to anti-ageing.

At that time and to the present day the company has maintained a strong focus on developing formulations that harness the best of nature through the most advanced procedures in biotechnology, while meeting with strict manufacturing requirements to ISO 9001 standards. Today Mila d'Opiz is recognised as a brand of unsurpassed quality that can hold its position as a market leader in product development with results-driven solutions for every skin type and conditions.

Recently Monique Lambert was appointed as the new distributor for Mila d'Opiz in Australia. With a successful business background, a strong vision and faith in the product Monique is offering the Australian professional aesthetics industry the opportunity to introduce a leading brand to their clients that will allow them to raise their treatment results to a higher level. APJ caught up with Monique to discuss what the industry can expect from her company.

㄰

APJ1: Monique, what is your business background and what prompted you to undertake the Australian distribution of Mila d'Opiz?

Monique: I have always shown a keen interest to pursue personal business ideas, which are either green field in nature or not mainstream. Having been a strategic partner in the development and success of a now nationwide private company for over 20 years, I was keen to take on a new and innovative challenge. Mila d'Opiz provided the answer.

One of the chief reasons I adopted the role of Australian distributor was to improve current distribution channels and iron out the current inefficiencies. By applying a more long-term strategic focus to current models, I believe brand awareness can increase to the point where Mila d'Opiz will become a household name.

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

APJ 20

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ2: What is your company offering a potential account and what do you believe is the competitive advantage of Mila d'Opiz skincare compared to other brands?

Monique: Every individual's requirements are

head office on our toll free number 1300 464 523 or email info@boutiquemonique.cm.au discuss product-related information.

unique, which is why I'd like to treat every account as unique. Having been a consumer of beauty products my whole life, I understand the confusion which can surround the multitude of products on the market, their applications and of course their pitfalls.

I would like to provide quality business support and service from the large business right down to the individual, and by quality training allow them to maximise product effectiveness and release the true potential of each and every line to meet their c l i e n t s ' PRODUCT LINE PYRAMID expectations as well as achieve their own business growth.

APJ4: What is your vision for the relaunch of Mila d'Opiz into the Australian Market?

Monique: Within the next three years I envision Mila d'Opiz products obtaining the largest market share in the industry. This goal will not be easy to achieve, however, I firmly believe that once brand awareness grows and consumers see firsthand the amazing quality of Mila d'Opiz, this is definitely an achievable objective. I would like to see the volume of Mila products in the Australian market increase in conjunction with market share.

Once this is achieved I envision new

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

People often talk about competitive advantage as though there's a black and white answer. I think the term 'sustainable competitive advantage' is far more important in today's highly volatile and competitive business environment. Mila's competitive advantages lies within the high-quality products produced as a result of decades of research and development and in staying at the forefront of scientific advances. Mila's products focus on providing real solutions to the needs of the consumer rather than just follow mainstream ideas based upon previous thought channels.

Another advantage is Mila's ability to use unique natural ingredients and push cutting-edge scientific advances into reality offering worldclass products to the consumer at prices far below competition from defined economies of scale.

APJ3: What training and support will you provide salons and clinics who wish to undertake your products for their business?

Monique: Training is essential in order to release the products’ full

㄰

potential. I plan on conducting training seminars in capital cities as of April 30, 2012 starting in Brisbane. During these seminars I will be discussing the essential ingredients of Mila's beauty products that set them apart from most other skincare lines. Treatment demonstrations and comprehensive product knowledge will always be available. Free postage with every order over $500 plus promotional, advertising merchandise and/or product samples are available free of charge with each order up to the value of 5% of the total value of orders. Account Holders can visit our website www.boutiquemonique.com.au for a full list of Mila's lines here in Australia. Alternatively, contact our

research and development investments focused on tailoring products to further fit the Australian consumer group.

WHAT CAN YOU EXPECT FROM MILA D'OPIZ? The Mila d'Opiz exciting product formulations offer comprehensive and very specific treatment ranges to address

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

APJ 21

!

㄰ 㤵

!

㜵

! ! !

㈵

!

!

Hyaluronic acid (low molecular weight for immediate effective, long-lasting moisturising, calming and wrinkle filler) Comfrey Cell-Extract (healing and tissue repairing) Uttwiler Spatlauber (apple stem cell extract) prevents chronological ageing, Soya Bean extract (refines lines and wrinkles), Pomegranate extract (rich in vitamin C, stimulates cell renewal), Kudzu extract (supports collagen and elastic production) and Wild Yam extract (immune defence stimulant and antioxidant).

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

THE CONCENTRATE COLLECTION

every possible skin condition and concern. Wherever possible they use high-grade natural, yet high-yielding ingredients in their formulations. Furthermore, exquisitely presented retail products are designed to support salon treatment results while appealing to the needs of the most demanding clientele. Here are just a few highlights of their innovative ranges:

PHYTO LIFTING CREAM Mila d'Opiz laboratories continue its pioneering role in the new generation of hormonal anti-ageing cosmetics. Their powerful Phyto 4.7 complex utilises a combination of different plant hormones which combat skin ageing caused by hormonal changes. Hormonal skin ageing becomes noticeable through the breakdown of collagen, slowing down of cell renewal and the skin's diminishing capacity to hold water.

Phyto 4.7 is a multifunctional and well-balanced combination of natural plant extracts. It possesses the power to tighten the skin and stimulate cell activity for younger-looking skin.

Ingredients include: Calcium/red algae complex, Arginine, Uttwiler Spatlauber Cell Extract (encapsulated plant stem cells), Soya bean extract, Pomegranate extract, Kudzu extract and Wild Yam extract.

Benefits include: Intensive 24-hour face and eye care against the signs of skin ageing, calming and anti-inflammatory properties, slows down hormonal skin ageing, firms the skin and improves moisture levels.

PHYTO LIFT GOLD ESSENCE This product is recommended as a course of treatments for “Lifting”.

㄰

A series of eight intensive and supreme concentrates will accelerate treatment results. Each precious drop of the Concentrate Collection is 3-5 times richer and more active than traditional “extracts”.

Each formulation is designed to offer solutions to specific skin concerns. The highly concentrated extracts include actives such as Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid (three difference molecular weights to target different skin needs), Permalan, Allantoin, Matrixyl 3000 (peptides), Vitamin A palmitate, Squalane, Tocopheryl acetate, Schisandra fruit extract, Inca Inchi oil, Macadamia oil.

The versatile concentrates can be applied on their own or together within a face mask for an enhanced effect. Each serum is designed to achieve an immediate and visible effect, offering the skin a radiant and firm appearance.

Other ingredients in the range include Argan oil, Babassu oil, Cupuacu Butter and Mango Butter.

Additionally, Mila D'Opiz utilise colloidal Gold for its anti-inflammatory and cell-renewing properties.

Scientific studies have established that colloids play a decisive role in the human organism and have fundamental significance in metabolic processes.

Mila d'Opiz also offers a Swiss Wellness body range, Final Touch makeup and a Men's range - complete product lines of unsurpassed quality.

With over 70 years’ experience you will be supported by trusted and proven formulations and a brand reputation second to none. Mila d'Opiz will partner with you to achieve incredible skin results through products that are a perfect harmony of Nature, Science and Swiss Quality.

㄰

Ingredients include:

! !

㤵 㜵

㈵

Gold (improve microcirculation), Matrixyl 3000 (peptides to stimulate collagen synthesis)

For further details contact MILA D'OPIZ

㤵

1300 464 523

㜵

Email: info@boutiquemonique.com.au or visit www.boutiquemonique.com.au

㈵

APJ 22

on t n e igh e s As y Ton a d o T

Herbal Aktiv Peel® from Alex Cosmetic in Germany is a skin resurfacing treatment based entirely upon dried, crushed herbs. The Herbal Aktiv Peel®: • Does not contain any synthetic acids or abrasives.

• Has a 50 year history of proven results with a wide variety of skin conditions.

• Does not injure the skin in order to cause the peeling.

The Herbal Aktiv Peel® will help your skin appear visibly improved, finer in texture, clearer and younger in just 5 days.

® Herbal Aktiv Peel is suitable for:

• • • •

Wrinkles Sun Damage Scarring Pigmentation

• • • •

Acne/Pimples Enlarged Pores Blackheads/Milia Stretch Marks

Crow’s Feet

BEFORE

Pigmentation

AFTER

Result achieved after 1 treatment Courtesy of Vogue Beauty Clinic, Launceston TAS

BEFORE

Result achieved after 3 treatments

Available only from accredited skin clinics Australia wide.

For more information visit omniderm.com.au or call 1300 301 007

AFTER

successstrategy ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

We often stumble on certain situations that have generated a good outcome. These are golden nuggets that we should not take for granted. Study them and see how you can integrate them into a successful formula that can foster on-going success and not just a oneoff positive outcome.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

GOOD FORTUNE COMES TO

THOSE WHO PREPARE

By Tina Viney

Whether in business or an employee we are all looking and hoping for a great year when good fortune will come our way. Is there anything we can do to achieve it or to prepare and welcome it in our personal and professional life?

French scientist Louis Pasteur once famously said, "Chance favours the prepared mind". And a century or so on, his words still ring true. In order to sustain a mental attitude of positive expectation you will need to know that you have prepared the ground for good fortune to land in your way.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

So what are the signs of poor preparation? When you are stressed, time poor, under pressure and running around late all the time, chances are you are not preparing perfectly and your results will always reflect this. I recommend taking a measured approach by simplifying and slowing things down where and whenever possible.

In some cases less is more, but when it comes to preparation more is indeed more. People often prepare inadequately because they are pressed for time, and some believe preparation is a luxury, preferring simply to "wing it" and hope for the best. This approach not only breeds incompetence, it does little to build confidence.

㈵

IDENTIFYING OPPORTUNITIES

If you have achieved success through mere chance take a step back

and identify what happened. If this is something you want repeated, it is in your hands to re-create that situation through good planning.

An example may be that you are trying to promote a series of treatments to a client who needs them, but she is hesitant. On reviewing her situation you decide to include something she really wants in the package. It may be another service or a special product that she really wants and attributes value to, so you offer this as the reward for FREE if she takes the package. She gets excited and the deal is closed. Now while the experience will make you feel good and give you confidence, why allow it to become a one-off good fortune situation. Analyse what has just happened and re-create similar scenarios to attract other clients who could also positively respond to such a strategy. This will require planning and preparation for the “good fortune” you know you can create. ㄰

We often stumble on certain situations that have generated a good outcome. These are golden nuggets that we should not take for granted. Study them and see how you can integrate them into a successful formula that can foster ongoing success and not just a oneoff positive outcome.

Preparation isn't a luxury – it's mandatory. If you are time-poor this may be a symptom of poor preparation. And if you are selling in a clinical and repetitive manner, then keep pushing the boundaries for

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 24

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

ways to improve the way you sell. Become more efficient, compelling, valuable, influential and passionate. Perfect preparation is paramount to perfect performance.

㤵 㜵

How you prepare for each client will determine the outcome. When you're pitching to win the trust of your client it's highly likely you are saying the same thing in the same way as your competitors. Sure, personality, value and benefits come into play, but you can differentiate yourself by demonstrating how much thought and effort you put into each opportunity. This demonstrates you genuinely care about creating the right outcome for your client. It also shows that you value the opportunity and take your own time and theirs seriously.

Thinking through how you will communicate to your clients and reinforce your treatment objectives to achieve the outcome they are looking for will show care, consideration and professionalism to your clients. They will feel that you are not just entering a routine mode because you know you now have sold them the treatment. This mindset takes thought and strategy to communicate, ensuring that each and every time your client visits you they are given the same attention as if it is their first visit with you.

Here are some strategies to help you achieve the appropriate ground for continued success:

! ! ! !

Check your client's needs prior to their arrival for a treatment. Set a verbal agenda with clear outcomes of what you want to achieve, reinforcing with them your knowledge and care and building ongoing trust in your services Slow things down when and wherever possible and don't rush a closure for a sale Don't commit to meaningless conversations because you feel you have to Role-play your past successful approaches and reinforce them with the appropriate relevance to your client's needs

㈵

! ! !

Discuss successful strategies at staff meetings to refine them and collaborate with colleagues on best practices.

Research your potential clients, and when discussing their needs and your services be armed with at least two key thoughtprovoking questions that will help them engage with you Create a simple and quick tool to measure the effectiveness of each meeting and look for ways to improve.

How you prepare is up to you, just remember, winning strategies don't happen by chance, they take preparation and planning, setting the stage for ongoing success. Perfect performance is therefore a product of perfect preparation.

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

salonbusiness ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Winning the sale with HIGHER-QUALITY PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS In Today's BUDGET-CONSCIOUS MARKET

By Tess Walls In tougher economic times many salons are opting for cheaper retail products in a bid to become more affordable for their clients and increase their cash flow, and in doing so they hope to appeal to a broader market that is becoming increasingly price-conscious. But by halving the price of an item you are also halving your potential income. While your demographics will determine what your market can and cannot afford, it also pays to consider a shift in sales strategy that may help your clients base their decision on quality and results and not just price. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

In this article Tess Walls, from Germaine de Capuccini, reveals winning strategies that have allowed many salons to maintain their sales targets without the need to downsize on quality for the sake of price.

As we all know, a lot has changed in the past five years in all areas of retail around the world and this of course has also impacted the beauty industry. As a result we need to take a closer look at what is working and what is not and perhaps implement some new approaches that are proving critical to the success of retailing.

When speaking with any business owner or manager within our industry I have always found that retailing has always been a "hot topic", but lately one question keeps popping up on a regular basis and that is, "should I introduce a budget product as my staff are finding it difficult to retail?”

My answer is before making any decision start with a review of the key factors that affect retailing success prior to taking the step to introduce a budget product. My reason is that once you condition your clients to think “budget” you are reinforcing a price-conscious mentality, and with that mindset it is more difficult for you to consider increasing your service prices or introduce a higher-performing product that may be more expensive.

EFFECTIVE RETAIL STRATEGIES

㄰ 㤵

Based on my discussions with owners and managers I have identified several key strategies that can help improve your retail sales. Here are some important areas you should review:

㜵

APJ1. Does your product line offer basic skincare benefits or do they deliver skin-improvement results your clients will value and appreciate?

㈵

APJ 26

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Tess: Research has proven that most often it is not the cost that stops many clients from purchasing a product, but rather a lack of conviction that the product is worth investing in. This can also be due to poor education and communication from the therapist that the product will work.

Our company always provides retail training which covers three key areas: ! Identifying the client's PROBLEM through consultation and analysis ! Discussing the REASON for the problem, and ! Offering a SOLUTION in the form of treatments and home-care support.

If your product line is part of the solution that you are providing to your client's need and she trusts that she will see visible improvements with her skin through the use of the product, then she will most likely buy. An additional factor is for your supplier to back their product with a guarantee.

only what is performed, but also the skin analysis observations on that day. Additionally, all client cards should contain "Client Goals".

These are goals that the therapist has set together with the client that meet with their needs and expectations. These could include: ! Reduce skin sensitivity ! Increase hydration levels in the skin and reduce clogging ! Refine skin texture ! Minimise the appearance of scarring.

㄰

These goals are not limited to facial clients, they should be set with all clients. My theory is if you don't know what targets you are trying to achieve then it's like trying to hit a bull's eye blindfolded!

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ4. Do you have a solution-based retailing system within your business and are your therapists using it?

Tess: Sometimes a therapist is not recommending home-care products because she does not know how. I always recommend having a structured retailing system that you monitor to ensure all

APJ2. Are your therapists appropriately educated and trained in understanding the skin and how advanced formulations and ingredients target different skin cells and offer solutions to various skin conditions?

Tess: Many therapists we meet during our product training do not understand the skin adequately enough. I was told recently by a training school that the facial training for the beauty therapy diploma is only 12 days, so if a therapist is limited to this training it is not surprising that her knowledge would not be enough to give her the confidence to recommend any products to her clients, let alone more advanced formulations that require a thorough understanding of both skin physiology as well as cosmetic chemistry.

Some suggestions to increase skin and ingredient knowledge would be to request more advanced training from your product supplier, or create workbased training by teaming up a senior therapist with a junior therapist and setting aside a weekly training time slot. Even if it is only an hour per week, you will be surprised how it will benefit your business.

Additionally, investing in advanced skin analysis training with an expert like Gay Wardle is an invaluable investment in helping up-skill staff with more advanced knowledge and greater confidence to communicate on a more professional level with their clients.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

APJ3. Do you have a comprehensive Client Skin Evaluation Card and are your therapists utilising them correctly?

Tess: Most businesses have a consultation card that

㄰

they ask clients to fill out, but frequently when I ask to see them they have nothing written on them or the notes are limited to the date of the treatment, the therapist who performed it and the treatment they performed. When speaking to therapists they admit to not reading what the client has written, and most say they don't have time to fill them out.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㈵

My belief is filling in a client card should be part of a standard treatment procedure and it should include not

APJ 27

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

staff are using it. All therapists need to understand that home care is 70% of the "puzzle" when helping a client achieve their skinimprovement goals.

APJ5. Where is your business positioned?

Tess: From a branding perspective how is your business positioned?

Are you offering standard services at budget prices, or have you invested heavily in your knowledge, equipment and expertise and built your brand around quality results? If this is you then your products should also reflect quality and performance in line with your branding image.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ6. Will introducing the budget brand make you more money and will a cheaper poorly performing brand affect your return clientele rate?

Tess: Most people we meet ask about product mark-up, but I think it is more important to look at the dollar per product you make. It is also very important to review the kind of results you will achieve after just one treatment. It is these results, in combination with the things listed above, that will make a client rebook. Keeping clients happy that their investment is paying off is the critical factor that will determine loyalty and return bookings. In fact, even a small drop-off in rebookings can effect the bottom line of a business dramatically.

As you can see there are many things to consider before committing to the introduction of a budget brand, and in doing so you can be compromising quality outcomes and return business.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

If you would like to discuss any information in this article or would like to find out how Germaine de Capuccini is increasing retail sales in more then 10,000 salons and spas around the world then call 1300 432 100 or visit www.germaine-decapuccini.com.au

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

Elixir of Youth

㜵

㈵

㈵

A skincare product, regardless of the ingredients it uses, is only as good as its ability to penetrate to the deeper layers where it can achieve changes within the skin cells. Now a new technological breakthrough promises to revolutionise skincare results through an advanced and patented delivery system called Qu-SOME. JYUNKA has introduced two new advanced cosmeceutical serums: M+FLUID and BOTO CAVIAR SERUM scientifically formulated to deliver vital active ingredients to a much deeper level of the skin.

M+FLUID Delivers 15% pure encapsulated L-ascorbic Acid to provide results like never before.

See immediate skin radiance as well as on-going skin improvement such as:

!

! Plumped up fine lines and wrinkles ! Sagging skin lifted ! Pores tightened and refined

Lightened pigmentation and age spots Skin looks radiant and toned from the first application.

BOTO CAVIAR SERUM ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Delivering advanced anti-ageing Peptides, Caviar, Hyaluronic acid and Acacia Collagen.

! Hydration levels immediately improved ! Skin is visible plumper and more vibrant ! Wrinkles significantly diminish ! Skin looks radiant and more youthful

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Advanced Delivery System + Advanced Ingredients = MIRACLE-LIKE RESULTS!

JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Ph: 03 9821 0355

Email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

A new breakthrough in transdermal delivery of

L-Ascorbic Acid & Super Nutrients that delivers MIRACLE-LIKE RESULTS Wishing to produce a cosmeceutical product that could deliver incredible results JYUNKA - innovative formulators in skincare

technology - went on a mission to research and develop a product far superior in its performance than anything previously available anywhere in the world.

In 1992 Dr Sheldon Pinnell from the Duke University of California US led a team to investigate the benefits of water-soluble Vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid. His discoveries put a scientific twist to this marvel of nature and marked the birth of one of the most powerful anti-oxidant ingredients - a natural anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle ingredient that delivers flawless, radiant skin. Based on this innovative vitamin C JYNKA decided to look at how they could improve on its delivery system.

So how do we get a water-soluble pure and natural ingredient such as Lascorbic acid through the skin's water-proof membrane? How do we keep it stable and protect it from naturally breaking down by the effects of sunlight, heat and oxygen, and how do we take out the sting associated with this form of pure Vitamin C?

㄰ 㤵

THE BIRTH OF A NEW DELIVERY SYSTEM Jyunka achieved this through nanotechnology. They designed an even smaller than previously available transdermal delivery system, which they called QU-SOME. They then looked at nature, observing a simple onion, and following the same principle they designed layer upon layer (between 7-10 layers) of pure clinical-strength Vitamin C, bound it together in Lipophilic layers and packaged it into a super nano-capsule capable of including two trillion capsules per one ounce of Vitamin C.

㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 30

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Then the pH levels had to be decreased below the natural pH of the skin to a level of 3 to 3.5. This allowed it to penetrate skin cells to a level where it could kick start and stimulate their regeneration to reproduce collagen and elastin - the essential proteins that support the skin's youthful appearance and eliminate the appearance of wrinkles.

In this lipophilic state the skin is “tricked” into identifying it as compatible to its own lipophilic layer and is receptive to allow for the product’s transfer into the skin. The super nano-capsule now works its way down into the skin and at each layer absorbs the released vitamin C. Progressively through this effective delivery system, pure clinical-strength Vitamin C is released at the deeper levels of the dermal junction than were previously possible and beyond the capabilities of conventional vitamin C products.

M+FLUID JYUNKA then patented this phenomenal Qu-some encapsulated delivery system for their use only, and developed M+FLUID that contains 15% L-ascorbic Acid, which it delivers transdermally into the skin.

M+FLUID offers:

! ! !

Faster absorption Faster results +15% increase in L-ascorbic acid

! !

the collagen softens and retains moisture on the skin, reducing dryness or skin chapping, while inducing greater collagen production by the fibroblasts.

CAVIAR – Every mother fish draws from their fish roe to construct and redevelop their vital organs. Applied on the skin, caviar has been proven as a powerful ingredient to help stimulate the skin's cellular structure.

SODIUM HYALURONATE – At a small molecular weight to allow for deeper penetration and enhance hydration, this Hyaluronate Acid chain provides superior hydration, enabling the skin to retain large amounts of moisture, while also protecting the skin from bacteria, dust and ultraviolet rays.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Tests reveal that after 30 days used twice-a-day wrinkle depth decreased on average by 27%. BOTO CAVIAR SERUM can be used morning and night under moisturiser or night cream, or it can be also applied after M+FLUID.

Benefits include:

! ! ! !

Skin is visibly plumped up and radiant Hydration levels are immediately increased Appearance of wrinkles are significantly diminished Skin looks vibrant, firmer and more youthful

Visible results include:

! ! ! ! !

Plumped fine lines Lift sagging skin Tightened pores Reduced dark eye circles Lightened pigmentation and age spots

For further information on M+Fluid and BOTO CAVIAR SERUM as well as other JYUNKA products please contact JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 Email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au

M+FLUID is a unique and powerful antioxidant and anti-ageing serum that enables the skin to achieve immediate results. Skin becomes lighter and brighter, pores are refined and fine lines are plumped up immediately at the epidermal level, while facial contour is lifted at a dermal level.

Results begin at the basal layer increasing skin cell production, while the stimulation of fibroblast cells increase collagen and elastic production in the dermis with long-term use.

Results you can achieve with M+Fluid when applied daily: INTENSE RESULTS in 21 days (used day and night) AGED SKIN – RESULTS in 2- 3 months (used at night) OIL CONTROL RESULTS in 2-3 nights weekly PIGMENTATION RESULTS by spot application (day and night) M+Fluid with Super Nano-Capsule QU-SOME is an ultra-fine particle with a size of 100 nm. It delivers 1000 to 5000 greater concentration of active ingredient compared to conventional serums.

BOTO CAVIAR SERUM ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

To further enhance the anti-ageing benefits of M+FLUID JYUNKA developed another powerful innovative serum to synergistically enhance further lifting.

㄰ 㤵

Using the same nanotechnology for advanced and incredible penetration BOTO CAVIAR SERUM is a new, powerful, anti-ageing elixir with a special combination of advanced ingredients to transform the skin. ! ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8 – A powerful anti-wrinkle hexapeptide with a Botox-like activity used through a topical application to induce muscle relaxation. ! ACACIA COLLAGEN – Extracted from the Acacia Senegal tree,

㜵

㈵

APJ 31

skinscience ㄰

Oestrogen

! Enhances magnesium uptake

㤵 㜵

! !

㈵

! ! ! !

and utilisation (magnesium has over 350 functions in the body) Maintains the amount of collagen in the skin Increases water content in the skin and is responsible for its thickness Enhances skin softness Maintains bone density Helps maintain muscle density Decreases overall risk of heart disease by up to 50% Enhances mood, concentration and energy

Hormonal changes and their impact on

!

MENOPAUSAL SKIN

Progesterone

While chronological ageing is something that we cannot avoid it is valuable to gain an understanding on factors that effect pre-mature ageing or contribute to the ageing processes.

There are two types of ageing for the skin - intrinsic (internal) ageing, which is caused by factors within your own body, such as genes, hormonal changes and in general the body's condition; and extrinsic (external) ageing, which is caused by factors outside your body, such as sunlight and lifestyle.

INTRINSIC (INTERNAL) AGEING AND THE SKIN On average, signs of skin ageing begin to appear in the mid-20s. As we grow older, the skin's ability to snap back to shape (elasticity) starts to decrease. That is because skin cells do not regenerate as fast as they used to, resulting to tougher, older skin. Although internal ageing begins in one's 20s, the typical signs of wrinkles and sagging skin do not appear until about a couple of decades later. Other signs that indicate skin ageing are thinning, loss of firmness, dryness, and reduction of sweat production that prevents efficient cooling of the body.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

! Anti-inflammatory ! Increase metabolic rate ! Is diuretic

! Natural calming effect ! Lowers cholesterol ! Helps body use and eliminate fat DHEA

! ! ! ! ! !

Increases brain function Increases lean body mass Helps the body repair itself and maintain tissues Decreases allergic reactions Elevates growth hormone levels Stops the damaging effect of stress

Testosterone

! ! ! ! !

Helps maintain muscle mass Helps prevent deterioration of health body composition Prevent dry skin due to very low oil production Improve energy levels Improve mood

WHY SKIN DETERIORATES DURING MENOPAUSE EXTRINSIC (EXTERNAL) AGEING OF THE SKIN Factors outside our own genes accelerate skin ageing. Lifestyle and habits carry more impact on why ageing skin occurs more prematurely in your lifetime. With the present condition our atmosphere is in, harmful rays from the sun pass through in ever-increasing amounts causing damage to the skin and hindering its ability to repair itself.

Over a period of time, a few minutes a day of exposure to ultraviolet rays results in changes to the skin (freckles, age spots, rough skin).

Cigarette smoking does not only cause harm to the body internally, but externally as well. This is most pronounced with the condition of the skin. Nicotine intake causes changes in the body that speed up the break down of skin cells, among other harmful effects. ㄰

THE ROLE OF HORMONES 㤵 㜵

㈵

A major contribution to the symptoms of ageing is that our glands get old, producing less testosterone, oestrogen and other "youth" hormones. As these hormones become depleted they contribute to internal inflammation, which is at the core of the ageing processes and affect not only our quality of life and wellbeing, but also our skin. To fully appreciate the relevance of hormones on body function and the skin here is a brief summary of the role of certain key hormones on the skin and body:

With hormonal decline in menopause the skin will start to become dull, blotchy and prone to pigmentation, or at the very least discolouration.

While hot flushes may make the skin clammy, it will also suffer from dehydration. Even though the body may retain fluid the skin will be greatly depleted of moisture as the hyaluronic acid within the skin will not be able to retain its moisture content. This is because in this state water is bound to itself - a condition known as tetrahedron or “bulk water”. This lack of interaction between water and surrounding molecules may explain why although older skin has a higher water content yet it is often dry and withered.

In fact, contrary to common belief hyaluronic levels remain constant in skin with ageing. The major age-related change is the increasing lack of bonding of hyaluronic acid to water and this is what leads to a loss of skin moisture. As a result there is an increase binding of hyaluronic acid with tissue, which parallels the cross linking of collagen, causing dehydration, atrophy and loss of elasticity. To further illustrate the point think of a bunch of grapes, robust and full of moisture holding their position in the bunch, then think of them when dehydrated as sultanas, bunched together in a bulk mass. Each grape is still in tact, but with the moisture being depleted their capabilities to stay plum and separated becomes depleted.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 32

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Overall the lipid content of the skin will also decrease due to the decline in sebaceous glands as a result of decreases in androgen production particularly in women. In males, sebum levels remain essentially unchanged until 80, while in women there is a gradual decrease in sebaceous activity from menopause through to their 70's after which no significant changes occur. This also leaves the skin more prone to dryness and dehydration. Additionally changes that will manifest include: Sweat gland activity declines. As perspiration is part of the body's cooling mechanism, this also contributes to the increase in inflammation and heat in the body.

Blood vessels in the dermis become more fragile leading to easer bruising and small cherry angiomas or broken capillaries may become more prevalent.

Decrease in oestrogen from the ovaries and adrenal glands also result in decreased collagen synthesis and repair and an increase in skin fragility, dryness, tightness and thinning or atrophy of the epidermis.

Additionally the support structures within the dermis - collagen and elastin, will be highly compromised and the skin will start to show progressive, if not rapid lines and wrinkles as it starts to lose its tone.

While achieving hormonal balance is a medical issue as an aesthetician there is much that you can do to support the skin's integrity and appearance.

TO COMBAT DEHYDRATION

㄰

Low weight hyaluronic acid has also been included to combat dehydration at the deeper levels of the skin.

㤵 㜵

ANTIOXIDANTS AND IMMUNE DEFENSE SUPERCEUTICALS: Alpha Lipoic Acid – A powerful skin rejuvenator, reducing the glycation processes Ferulic acid – Antioxidant, phyto-protecting agent, immune enhancer and cell repair agent Phytic Acid – Antioxidant, melanin formation blocker and antiinflammatory Lycopene – Triggers the even formation of epidermal cells, increases the life-cycle of healthy skin cells by up to 50%. Anti-glycation agent and sun protector.

efficacy when combined with melatonin

Melatonin – Known as the “sleep and relaxation hormone” enhances the skin's natural resting state for optimal receptivity to active ingredients.

Black Cohosh – A valuable phytoestrogen to rebalance the skin's hormone levels and act also as an anti-inflammatory agent.

Wish is a special skincare range developed by CHRISTINA specifically for woman 45 and over, who are menopausal.

Each skin type and condition has its unique set of challenges and menopausal skin is often a difficult one to achieve sufficient antiageing benefits. As a skin therapist now with WISH you can achieve a targeted approach designed to help you provide relief and significantly enhance the skin through impressive results and longterm benefits.

The formula contains several key anti-ageing peptides, formulated in a special structure so their proteins are in the most usable form to target the dermal layer where fibroblasts can utilise them to produce collagen.

DHEA (Prasterone) – Accelerates natural anti-ageing skin function, maximising skin regeneration and improving other ingredient

PROVIDING A TARGETED SOLUTION

To assist the skin to restore its vitality Wish has incorporated specific active ingredients to restore the skin firmness and tone and improve hydration levels and smoothness.

HORMONAL SUPPLY:

SKINCARE FORMULATION FOR MENOPAUSAL WOMEN

Key Active Ingredients in WISH

㈵

For further information on CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS phone 1800 824 282.

HERE ARE JUST SOME OF THE KEY ACTIVES IN THE WISH SKINCARE LINE: TO COMBAT LINES AND WRINKLES: Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzybimide Diacetate – An anti-wrinkle pepetide mimicking the snake venom peptide, reducing the appearance and creation of expression wrinkles.

Acetyl Glutamyl Hexapeptide-3 – Acts as a wrinkle relaxant Glycolic Acid – Improves skin cell ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

turnover and increases uptake of active ingredients and stimulates collagen synthesis. Restores the skin's pH

㄰ 㤵 㜵

TO COMBAT PIGMENTATION Several tyrosinase inhibiting and lightening agents have also been included. These are: Kojic acid,

㈵

Azelaic acid and Bearberry extract.

APJ 33

The Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network presents ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Are you WINNING AGAINST THE ODDS?

NEW HORIZONS Business & Professional Development Conference & Expo

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Each year APAN stages an educational event in a different regional location across various States to help bring quality education, new business tools and product innovations to the aesthetics and beauty industry. The event comprises of a well-researched educational program to bring the very best generic education, news and information to the industry in the region.

This year the theme of the conference will be Winning Against the Odds and will be held at the Mercure in Townsville, which is just five minutes from the airport.

WHY YOU SHOULD PRIORITISE TO ATTEND THIS EVENT As with other professions and business sectors there are rapid changes that if unnoticed will lead to your progressive decline.

While you may be gaining glimpses of information from various sources you may not be viewing the full picture and this can make the difference between you failing or surviving. Don't take the risk!

The New Horizons conference program aims to bring it all together for your benefit through one dynamic event. It will allow you to gain a comprehensive understanding of the key elements that will shape the beauty and aesthetics industry from experts in their field.

Learning what is involved and what is in store will give you the confidence to know what choices you have, while allowing you to gain the competitive advantage, ensuring you are at the forefront of progress.

As a general overview this is what you can expect to learn from this program: ㄰ 㤵

! !

㜵

! ㈵

!

!

What are the key changes within the industry that you must know about The “new rules” in business practices. Know what no longer works and what you need to have in place to survive the current economic environment Understanding your obligations under the Fair Work rules and guidelines Learn the most successful strategies that are allowing businesses to grow Gain valuable step-by-step information on how to put

! !

together winning packages that will ensure your clients' on-going loyalty and grow your business with minimal effort The new ways to sell products and what works best Re-ignite your passion, enthusiasm and excitement as you gain new skills you can immediately put into practice

BOUTIQUE-STYLE EXHIBITION Supporting the Conference program will be a boutique-style exhibition showcasing the latest products and technologies and offering you the opportunity to meet leading companies and learn more about their products and services, while taking advantage of show specials. There will also be fun demonstrations and prizes to be won.

WHAT YOU WILL GET All delegates who attend will receive:

! ! ! !

Delegate's Kit Statement of Attendance from APAN Meals will be included: – Morning and afternoon tea and buffet lunch Gifts and prizes

This is a unique opportunity to attend a high-quality event, meet some leading and influential industry leaders, network with other professionals and gain knowledge and inspiration that will transform your future.

The event will cater for BUSINESS OWNERS AS WELL AS EMPLOYEES. Group rates are available and are also tax deductible.

Bookings are essential for catering purposes. While staged in Queensland, this event will benefit and is open to all industry professionals and of course members of APAN in every State as it will be an invaluable investment regardless in what State you are operating in. ㄰

LOCATION AND ACCOMMODATION If you would like to book accommodation at the Mercure please phone Reservations on 07 4759 4923 and quote APAN'S NEW HORIZONS event for your discount price of $149 per room per night. Full buffet breakfast $19 per person per day.

The Mercure Townsville is located just down the road from Castle Town Shopping Centre, in Woolcock St, Townsville. As a delegate or supplier ample parking is available at no charge. If you are flying in for the event the Mercure Townsville is located just five minutes from the airport.

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 34

㈵

A

ORK

㄰

DV

㤵

TW

㜵

MERCURE TOWNSVILLE, Queensland Sunday 27th May 2012 8.30am – 5.00pm

STHETI AE C

㤵

CTI PRA TION

S ER

㄰

S

E I S O RY N

㜵

APAN

㈵

NEW BUSINESS TOOLS WORKSHOP(Separate event) Additionally, APAN will be staging a hands-on intensive workshop on Saturday 26th May for business owners on the latest cost-effective tools to help simplify how you run your business, while achieving your goals more smoothly and efficiently. This is a MUST ATTEND event for all business managers or owners as it will present the latest technologies and demonstrate how they work and how they can improve client growth in a simple and cost-effective manner. You will also be able to ask questions from a technical expert and gain a thorough understanding of how these systems can work for you and your requirements.

This workshop alone could save you thousands of dollars, while giving you the potential to double your business growth. For maximum benefit NEW BUSINESS TOOLS workshop will be presented in a boardroom setting that can accommodate only 12 delegates, so book quickly to secure your position.

The workshop will be presented by Mark Viney. Mark is a qualified IT professional and a qualified teacher. He comes with over 20 years experience and regularly attends training programs to keep up-to-date with the latest technological developments for the benefit of the businesses he services.

Mark will be presenting a compelling and intensive training program that will open up new possibilities to business owners to empower then to grow their businesses in cost-effective ways. This is a totally generic educational workshop. Check the following for the details.

VISIT TOWNSVILLE IN MAY

㄰

May is a beautiful time of the year to take a break and visit sunny Townsville with friends or family, while gaining some powerful industry information through the NEW HORIZONS CONFERENCE AND EXPO. Register today and save through the EARLY BIRD'S SPECIAL. This even is an investment not to be missed.

㤵 㜵

REGISTRATION EARLY BIRD'S SPECIAL (Before 10

th

㈵

May 2012)

Full Conference Program including meals

APAN MEMBERS $100 NON-MEMBERS $120 th

After May 10 rates will increase by 20%.

NEW BUSINESS TOOLS WORKSHOP The value and cost of this workshop is $350 if you only wish to attend this workshop. However, APAN is offering a fantastic SPECIAL OFFER for those who wish to attend both days – Workshop and the Conference programs.

SPECIAL DISCOUNTED RATES apply as set out below: Topic : NEW BUSINESS TOOLS WORKSHOP Presenter: Mark D. Viney Date: Saturday 26th May 2012 Time: 1pm-5pm Location: Mercure Townsville Cost: APAN Members $70 Workshop + Conference $100 total $170.

Non-Members $110 plus Conference $120 total $230 Workshop only $350.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Book now as there are limited seats available.

Visit: www.apanetwork.com and complete a registration form on-line. ㈵

If you require further details and would like someone to phone you please email info@apanetwork.com and give us your name, phone number and time you would like to be contacted and someone will get back to you.

APJ 35

㄰

㄰

CONFERENCE PROGRAM

㤵 㜵

㤵 㜵

Please arrive at 8.00am to collect your delegate's bag and badge as the first lecture starts at 8.30am SHARP. We would appreciate if all delegates arrived on time please to avoid disruptions. ㈵

Time: 8.30- 9.15am Topic: NEW RULES, NEW TRENDS - WHERE ARE YOU POSITIONED? Speaker: Tina Viney

Tina Viney is recognised as a leader and visionary in the beauty and aesthetics industry in Australia.

Her extensive research, industry involvement and knowledge allow her to speak with authority and accuracy about the forces that are influencing change and alerting the industry on the most important considerations they need to focus on to stay on the cutting edge and grow their market share. As the CEO of APAN she consults and coaches businesses on a daily basis in areas of industry regulations, business and staff management concerns. She passionately defends the rights and needs of the industry with government and regulatory bodies and pioneers new initiatives for the betterment of the industry.

㈵

You will learn:

! ! ! !

Statistics on industry changes and direction Why salons are failing Winning strategies for growth and profitability Valuable tools designed for your success 30-minute break

Time: 9.45-10.30am Topic: LEADING GROWTH STRATEGIES FOR SUCCESSFUL SPAS AND SALONS Speaker: Tess Walls Tess Walls is a qualified beauty therapist, trainer and director of ISPA Group. She has 17 years’ experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business step-by-step. She works extensively teaching therapists how to deliver exceptional client services that can transform their profits and grow their business regardless of economic times. She has also owned and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including the Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems.

You will learn:

! ! ! !

What are the most popular and successful packages and why How to sell high-end products without having to apologise for the price Gaining the competitive advantage in your business Delivering treatments that secure client loyalty 30-minute break

Time: 11.00am-11.45am Topic: THE BREAKTHROUGH GUIDE – BUILDING A BETTER AND MORE PROFITABLE SPA OR BEAUTY BUSINESS Speaker: Caroline Nelson Caroline Nelson is the Director of Nelson Beauty Business Management. She works as a business coach, trainer and presenter specialising in the beauty industry and is well known for her practical, down- to-earth style. Her success as a business coach is attributed to immense knowledge and first-hand understanding of all the facets of the spa and salon environment. She is a great communicator and her incredible energy and passion to see others succeed is infectious. She brings a wealth of knowledge gained over many years of experience that are exclusive to the professional beauty industry.

㄰

㄰

You will learn:

! ! ! !

㤵 㜵

How to take your salon, spa or Medispa to the next level How to make your business more profitable in the current marketplace Cutting-edge insight and practical ideas New smart ways to strategise, plan and execute better business management 1hour and 15minutes LUNCH BREAK

㈵

㤵 㜵

㈵

Education - Networking - News - New Releases - Prizes and Rewards - Fun

APJ 36

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Time: 1.00-1.45pm Topic: FAIR WORK – UNDERSTANDING YOUR OPTIONS AND OBLIGATIONS Speaker: Michael Bishop

㄰

Michael Bishop is a Partner at Pointon Partners Lawyers and Trademark Attorneys, based in Melbourne. He graduated from the University of Melbourne in 1997 with honours degrees in both Law and Commerce (majoring in industrial relations and management). Michael's areas of practice include employment law, mergers and acquisitions, ASX listings, commercial leasing and trademarks.

In the area of employment law, Michael has significant experience in employment agreements, preparing workplace policies and handbooks, advising on termination of employment and redundancy, acting in unfair dismissal proceedings, advising on discrimination issues, restraint of trade and misuse of confidential information. Michael has been a member of the Workplace Relations Committee of the Law Institute of Victoria for a number of years.

㜵

㤵

㈵

You will learn:

! ! ! !

Flexible working arrangements - options and how to get it right Unfair dismissal - what you need to know if you are experiencing staff difficulties Penalty rates and overtime - are there other options?

Contracts - rules that govern contractual arrangements 30-minute break

Time: 2.15-3.00pm Topic: WINNING THE LOYALTY OF YOUR STAFF AND CLIENTS IN A VOLATILE MARKET Speaker: Gay Wardle Gay Wardle is a highly accomplished and respected educator in the aesthetics industry. Her salons have won over 12 national awards for their achievements. Gay travels throughout Australia and New Zealand training salon and spa managers and their staff in Advanced Skin Analysis, IPL and Laser.

However, she never fails to give generously of her winning strategies that contribute to her on-going success. Currently Gay is finalising her Bachelor of Dermal Therapies at Victoria University. Gay's knowledge is powerful because she has put into practice everything she will be presenting.

You will learn:

! ! ! !

The secrets to a successful team What makes clients stay with you forever Becoming a confident manager Making reaching your goals a fun experience

30-minute break

Time: 3.30pm - 4.15pm Topic: DYNAMIC SYNERGY OF SERVICE AND PRODUCT EXCELLENCE FOR BUSINESS GROWTH Speakers: Industry Panel Tess Walls, Gay Wardle, Katrina Gilligan and Theme Rains This group of successful business-women consists of highly knowledgeable and accomplished ladies. They will each present down-to-earth and compelling issues that have been pivotal to their sales success and contributed to service excellence and business growth. Each will present practical information from their own experience.

You will learn:

! ㄰ 㤵

! !

What are the key criteria for selecting a winning product that will sell and how important is cost?

What are clients looking for in today’s market?

In the last 12 months what has been your most successful strategy that has increased your income?

㜵

㈵

㤵 㜵

For further details phone 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com or visit www.apanetwork.com to register on line.

㄰

㈵

Education - Networking - News - New Releases - Prizes and Rewards - Fun APJ 37

㄰ 㤵 㜵

WARNING: don't be caught with inadequate insurance in time of a business claim.

Memories of people who have lost everything as a result of the natural disasters still haunt our minds. People who thought they had adequately insured all that they had worked so hard to build.

㈵

The Sparrow Group have a proven record as Insurance specialists just for the beauty industry, protecting our clients, removing that stress factor, and in many cases, offering significant savings as well.

We have negotiated an arrangement, backed by the best in the world, Lloyds of London, wherein we can cover your stock and contents for fire and perils and accidental damage, offer glass cover, money and theft, etc in conjunction with your Liability cover to ensure you are well protected.. *In many cases we can offer the advantage of having all your cover with the one insurer, highlighting the value of having a holistic approach so nothing slips between the cracks.

Also available are easy payment arrangement by both Credit Card and Premium Financing Arrangements enabling you to free up your cash flow.

We look forward to the opportunity to provide you with an obligations- free quote taking the pressure off you.

The Sparrow Group began primarily to provide insurance to the Beauty Industry, coming from the vantage point of having experience in the industry.

The Director Sue Sparrow, had vast experience in the beauty industry before becoming an insurance broker, which then led her to develop her own successful insurance company.

More recently, Sue worked closely with underwriters to develop insurance cover for the more specialised area of skin needling. This has created a breakthrough for the beauty industry.

We know how important personalised and specialised service is in running a beauty salon; it's the same in finding the right insurance.

The beauty industry has become so varied, with much advancement in treatments. This means your business needs personal attention to ensure that you are covered effectively.

Many insurers include unnecessary cover in their standard policies, pushing up their premiums. We offer service that ensures you're covered where it counts, and that you only pay for what you need.

Our proven results save you money while guaranteeing peace of mind. Our alliance with Lloyds of London gives you security through being the world's largest and most diversified insurance provider.

The Sparrow Group provides you with proven service that will take the * for specific size salon. 㤵 㜵

Ring now for a review......obligation free Call Sue Sparrow on (07) 5502 8326. or Email sales@thesparrowgroup.com.au

㈵

㤵 㜵

SEE WHAT YOUR COLLEAGUES HAVE TO SAY Chris WA. Chris called The Sparrow Group for a review as she was paying very high premiums and she wasn't obtaining the information from her broker to assist her in feeling comfortable with the insurance policy that was in place. Her current brokers were not proactive in providing her with information, or for that matter returning her calls.

Chris wanted to know what she had covered under her existing policies; did she require further cover and was she paying too much?

㈵

After reviewing her policies, we confirmed the following: As Chris's business had grown and she had additional areas to cover, another policy was added. While this was very diligent of her to make sure she was properly covered, the insurance broker, due to a lack of understanding of the beauty industry, had duplicated her policies. Also, there were existing policies in place that she no longer required due to the changes in her business.

These matters were immediately corrected and we sourced new policies that save her over $7,000 per year.

Joanne SA. Joanne called The Sparrow Group for a review

MORE ABOUT THE SPARROW GROUP

㄰

㄰

of her policies, as she was concerned over the premium amount she was paying and she didn't feel her insurance broker understood her business requirements. As she had a mobile business that included an IPL machine she was concerned that it wasn't adequately covered under her insurance.

After reviewing Joanne's policies we confirmed the following: There were areas of Joanne's policies that were doubled up and we were able to save her money.

However, her mobile IPL and some of her other electronic equipment were far from adequately covered. In the event of a claim it would have cost Joanne up to $60,000 to replace her equipment. We were not able to offer savings to Joanne's premium. We were, however, able to give her peace of mind through a more comprehensive cover in the event of a claim.

Susan Qld. Susan called to see if The Sparrow Group could review her policies as she had been with an insurance broker for some time and she wasn't sure if she was covered for all her treatments under her existing policies.

After reviewing Susan's policies we confirmed the following: Susan's policies were in disarray. She had policies that were not worth the paper they were written on as they were not adequately insured to cover her treatments or for any advice that she or her staff may be giving that may eventuate in a claim. She had a motor vehicle and a household policy that she thought she was covered for that had been out of cover for five months. We were able to work through all the paperwork with Susan and ensure that she and her business were adequately covered and she could now sleep at night.

With the beauty industry moving forward in leaps and bounds the need for an insurance group who has extensive experience in the beauty industry as well as the insurance industry is paramount.

Our proven results guarantee peace of mind

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network presents ㄰ 㤵 㜵

NEW HORIZONS Business and Professional Development

㄰ 㤵

Conference & Expo

㜵

Winning Against the Odds

A

REGISTRATION EARLY BIRD'S SPECIAL BEFORE 10th May 2012 FULL CONFERENCE PROGRAM Including Lunch, Morning & Afternoon Tea APAN MEMBERS: $100 NON-MEMBERS: $120

S

CTI PRA TION

S ER

STHETI AE C

㈵

ORK

MERCURE TOWNSVILLE, Queensland Sunday 27th May 2012 8.30am – 5.00pm

DV

TW

㈵

E I S O RY N

APAN

Staying ahead of your competitors and gaining the most up-to-date industry intelligence has never been more fun. NEW HORIZONS is a leading educational and networking event designed to empower you with information you will not receive elsewhere. You will gain the very best education and information in a fun, interactive environment that will make learning pleasurable and effective. Join us for a day you will never forget!

EXTENSIVE EDUCATION CONFERENCE This is a must-attend event for all who wish to stay abreast of progress and gain the competitive advantage.

Leading Education in: ! Marketing and Business Strategies ! Staff Development ! New Advanced Techniques ! Technological Developments ! New Study Programs ! Industry Intelligence ! Demonstrations ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㄰

Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Ph: 07 5593 0360 For a full speakers program and to register online visit www.apanetwork.com Register to receive our newsletter with up-to-date information online or by emailing: info@apanetowork.com

㈵

㤵 㜵

㈵

Education - Networking - News - New Releases - Prizes and Rewards - Fun

㄰

for and are also backed by advanced training to improve standards. With Lish we recognise that to support businesses we need our products to not only be of high quality, but also be backed by comprehensive training for every technician as well as on-going support and skills development.

㤵 㜵

APJ2: In your experience what are the hallmarks of a successful salon and how does your company support business to achieve their goals?

Katrina: From our experience the hallmarks of success are for a business to be

㈵

Nail Enhancement Transformation The need for professionalism is not only appropriate for aesthetics, but also for grooming services such as nail technology. While consumers are bombarded with discount services and product there is now a new shift towards expert advice and quality services, and this trend is also impacting the Nail Industry.

As a result APAN has been approached to establish an arm of the oganization to cater specifically for nail professionals. Working collaboratively with Katrina Gilligan from Lish Nail Creations we have identified several areas that we can assist in providing professional services and guidelines to support this sector achieve an enhanced professional profile.

Committed and passionate about improving the standards of the nail industry Katrina Gilligan is innovative and accomplished with a proven track record of being standards-focused over any commercial gain. She is fast becoming recognised as an inspirational leader with a mission to raise the profile of the nail industry through better education and professional skills development. We caught up with Katrina once again to continue our discussion with her in this issue of APJ.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ1: As a trainer, supplier and salon owner you have many balls to juggle. Do you believe that experiencing a broad spectrum of the industry allows you to better understand and more accurately monitor salon needs and where they are coming from? How does this allow you to select appropriate products to market to them?

Katrina: Understanding current industry trends and identifying the struggles that businesses are experiencing enables us to ensure that the products we provide bring the elements that businesses are looking

renowned for delivering exceptional service that doesn't stop at a standard practice, but looks at ways to exceed client expectations by providing end results that demonstrate exception attention to detail as well innovative work. An example is to be skilled in providing not only a good set of nails, but also skilful nail art designs that are fantastic. The success of Lish lies in our commitment and ability to support the salons to achieve their goals by providing one-on-one classes and being available to answer any questions through our extensive network of Lishette educators. In fact, we offer one of the most comprehensive support systems in the market today. Our Facebook is also an excellent communication tool where technicians can get their questions answered quickly and efficiently. This makes it easy for a technician to ensure she is utilising the product in the correct way to achieve exceptional results.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ3. How important to the success of a salon is the issue of providing specialised products and services? Can you give us some examples?

Katrina: In today's market consumers are looking for experts who have the skills and knowledge to determine the best possible choice of product and service for their individual needs and this choice must be determined by the client's lifestyle, needs and expectations. When it comes to nails, the technician must first take the time to do a thorough assessment of the health of the client's nail. To do this they need to have a strong understanding of the anatomy of the nail and identify any contraindications. From there they will need to assess the client's occupational habits and allow this to guide them as to which nail enhancement product would best suit their lifestyle and needs. Once they have determined this they will need to discuss their recommendations and reasons behind them with the client. This is how you build trust, and allow your client to be confidence in your judgment.

As a professional you should be able to work with a variety of options - gel or acrylic and the various options available to you. You should not be restricted in your choice, but should allow yourself to make the right decision of product as dictated by the client's need.

APJ4. How do you see the future of nail technology?

Katrina: While there are a lot of mediocre technicians out there, we are also seeing a special breed that is passionate to be the best they can be and push the parameters of what they can achieve with this profession. Achieving excellent nail enhancement is really quite a difficult skill to master and investing in on-going education will allow technicians to become more masterful. Learning should be an ongoing journey regardless of your profession. The path of the nail technician is no difference, if she wants to be recognised as a nail expert. Artistry is something that has the potential to constantly evolve. It is no different to other professions such as cosmetic tattoo or even appearance enhancement through injectables. There is always something new you can learn or tweak to get an even better result. You will find that most experts are also perpetual students. With on-going learning their confidence and passion is ignited by discovering new and better ways of delivering their craft. I believe that the nail industry will continue to grow. Most women feel so much better and more confident when their nails are professionally groomed. While this is a highly competitive market this is not a concern for a technician who practices good hygiene and through an acute sense of detail can deliver amazing nails - she will always be in demand.

Katrina Gilligan can be contacted at SALON PACIFIC BEAUTY SUPPLIES Phone: 1300 651 439 Email: info@salonpacific.com.au Visit: www.salonpacific.com.au.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 40

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Visit us at New Horizons Conference and Expo in Townsville, Sunday 27 May 2012.

keyingredient ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Educating Your Clients on the Role of Vitamin B3 in Skin Therapy

By Gay Wardle In a time where the Internet, supermarket brands and new forms of marketing are impacting on the role of aesthetic professionals I continue to believe the best way for you to maintain relevance is by constantly improving your knowledge, and passing that knowledge on to your clients in a meaningful way. In this context I first want to comment on the importance of our role as educators for our clients, and then give you an example of one vitamin you might teach your clients about.

What maintains your relevance to your clients is your ability to know what is right for them and your ability to help them get past the marketing hype that constantly bombards them every day. Often this comes from mass-produced brands that are sometimes no more than a cheap moisturiser with an ingredient added to allow them to make a marketing claim.

Unfortunately, many of our clients don't understand these ingredients and the concentrations necessary for the ingredient to have an actual effect on skin improvement. They have little idea of what chemicals to look for to know that the product has a quality base. If only our clients could realise that just like we benefit from putting quality food into our body to achieve health, we need to put quality ingredients into our body through our skin.

㄰ 㤵

Helping your clients understand the ingredients, what role they play in the skin and what their skin needs at various times of their life is our mission. Therefore, making the time to continually learn and giving yourself the opportunity to grow professionally should be your passion. So now let's look at the technical elements of one ingredient you might educate your clients on, and then some ways you might discuss it with them.

cellular energy and metabolism and is crucial in many cellular processes such as responses to UV-induced stress and cutaneous immunity, which is highly energy dependent. Both topical and oral Vitamin B3 protects against the immune suppressive effects of UV radiation, but do not affect the erythemal response to UV exposure.

Vitamin B3 has photo-protective effect by reducing ultravioletinduced immuno-suppression and photo-carcinoenesis.

Exact mechanisms of Vitamin B3 on photo-protection are still unclear, but are likely to involve its role in cellular processes such as DNA repair.

It is likely that Vitamin B3 exerts its photo-protective effects via regulation of cellular-energy metabolism.

The benefits that have been suggested in studies that might be relevant when discussing it with clients include that Vitamin B3 can have an effect with hyperpigmentation, fine wrinkles, and may reduce the appearance of redness, yellowing and blotchy spots on the face. Lowdose daily oral Vitamin B3 could hold promise of reducing skin cancer incidence, especially in high-risk individuals (skin types 1 and 2). It is found in a wide range of cosmetics and facial moisturisers, with studies showing that it could be effective against photo-ageing.

According to several studies in summary these are some of the benefits of Vitamin B3 on the skin:

!

!

㜵

BENEFITS OF VITAMIN B3 (NIACIN AND NICOTINAMIDE) ON THE SKIN ㈵

One very beneficial vitamin for the skin is Vitamin B3 (nicotinamide).

Vitamin B3 is a water-soluble vitamin that occurs naturally in foods such as yeast, meats, fish, nuts and legumes. It is well tolerated by most skin types. It is an essential vitamin that plays an integral role in

!

Anti-inflammatory: It has shown to inhibit the irritation and inflammation bacteria in the skin pores causes. Inflammation is one of the key components in acne formation, and it's inflammation that turns blocked skin pores into angry, red and painful pimples. Reduction in inflammation leads to faster healing of the skin.

Niacin and nicotinamide speed up the separation of skin cells after they die. One reason skin pores get blocked is because skin cells remain lumped together after they die. These Vitamin B3 compounds help the skin cells to separate and thus aids in removal of dead skin cells from the pores, and helps to keep your skin pores open.

Niacin and nicotinamide have been shown to improve skin barrier function, which is often a factor in skin diseases. Well-

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 42

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

! ! !

functioning skin barrier prevents moisture loss from the skin and protects it against acne-causing bacteria and dirt.

Topical application might reduce sebum production.

Protects the skin from UV damage caused by sunlight.

Evens out skin tone and reduces hyperpigmentation (i.e. acne scars).

solves. Luckily Vitamin B3 is considered safe both in normal oral and topical use.

㤵

However, side-effects are reported with exceptionally high doses.

Nicotinamide can cause liver toxicity in doses exceeding three grams per day. Niacin in doses higher than 1.5 g per day can cause skin flushing, itching, dry skin and rash. More significant side-effects have also been reported.

RESULTS FROM CLINICAL STUDIES The use of niacin and nicotinamide in cosmetics and dermatology has been studied widely. Here are some interesting study results on the benefits of Vitamin B3 on acne and rosacea.

While these side-effects may be severe they are rare and happen only in dosages that are significantly higher than normal use. Used normally both are considered exceptionally safe.

A large study conducted at the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center looked into the effectiveness of nicotinamide and zinc supplementation on acne. The study was eight weeks long and included 198 participants suffering from acne and/or rosacea. The supplement used in the study contained nicotinamide 750 mg, zinc 25 mg, copper 1.5 mg, and folic acid 500 mg. Note that the nicotinamide amount is much higher than RDA and what you'll find from most Vitamin B supplements.

The results were impressive. After four weeks 79% of the patients reported that their appearance was moderately or much improved. The results continued to improve during the eight-week study. 26% of the patients also received an oral antibiotic in addition to the nicotinamide and zinc supplementation.

Interestingly, the addition of oral antibiotic didn't bring any additional benefits.

The study concluded: “Nic/Zn tablets appear to be an effective oral therapy for the treatment of acne vulgaris and rosacea.”

A study published in the International Journal of Dermatology in 1995 compared topical application of nicotinamide gel to clindamycin gel (clindamycin in a widely used antibiotic). Both treatments produced significant improvements, with 82% of the patients treated with nicotinamide gel and 68% treated with clindamycin gel were improved. The problem with antibiotics is that over time bacteria develop resistance to them. Nicotinamide doesn't have this problem. The study used 4% nicotinamide gel.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

And finally a study looked into whether niacin could influence sebum production. This study used 4% niacin moisturiser. The results were interesting, but somewhat mixed.

The study was conducted both in Japan and in the US. In the Japanese subjects researchers noted significantly lowered sebum excretion rate, whereas in the US subjects the sebum excretion rate didn't change, but sebum levels on the skin had dropped.

SIDE-EFFECTS ㈵

No treatment is worth using if it causes more problems than it

㄰

㜵

㈵

THE ROLE OF VITAMIN B3 ON ACNE BACTERIA Vitamin B3, both in niacin and nicotinamide forms, is an effective treatment for acne. It inhibits the inflammation caused by P. Acne bacteria, reduces acne scars, helps to keep skin pores open, protects the skin from UV damage and might even reduce sebum production.

These results are proven with clinical research. However, keep in mind that acne is a complicated condition with many possible causes.

Vitamin B3 as a sole treatment is unlikely to get you completely clear.

Your best option would be to combine Vitamin B3 therapy with healthy diet and lifestyle choices that lower insulin levels and reduce chronic inflammation.

ACTION OF VITAMIN B3 IN SKINCARE:

! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

anti-acne anti-inflammatory oil sebum control lightening & brightening sun damage repair & protection prevent water loss in skin reduce fine lines and wrinkles improve skin elasticity

EDUCATING YOUR CLIENTS ABOUT VITAMIN B3 You can use this knowledge of Vitamin B3 with your clients in a number of ways. The first thing you could do is a skin and lifestyle analysis to look at what is happening in their skin and whether there are stresses in their life that may be relevant. Another way is to use a discussion about the importance of Vitamin B3 to lead into educating them on how products deliver the Vitamin B3 into the skin and the difference in the quality of the chemicals used in various products. A third way could be to discuss how Vitamin B3 might relate to stress in their life and then discuss what is the necessary concentration that has shown effects in studies. Discuss with them which products have that concentration present and how many times a week they have to use the product to achieve an effect.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 43

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Vitamin B3 Molecule By having made an effort to learn about an ingredient and increase your knowledge you can open up a number of different discussions with your client that can demonstrate to them why they need to come to you and receive the benefits of your knowledge. So it is up to you to make the time to increase your knowledge and gain new skills, and then be disciplined enough to regularly analyse your clients’ skin so that you identify the best possible way to achieve long-term results for them. If you do this your business will benefit from a loyal client base and you will draw immense satisfaction from the role you play for your clients.

REFERENCE: The Nicomide Improvement in Clinical Outcomes Study (NICOS): results of an 8-week trial. Niren NM, Torok HM.University of Pittsburgh Medical Center, Pennsylvania, USA.

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Advance your knowledge and education to a higher level. MDA is now offering Post-Graduate courses to empower you for greater treatment results and business growth.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

With the advances in new equipment and skincare technology, heightened awareness by consumers and the collaboration between professional aesthetics and medical and anti-ageing practices there is now the need for education and specialised Post-Graduate training to support and deliver higher levels of expertise and advanced results.

Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS PROGRAM in 2011 to equip and empower you to make the transition with greater confidence into the realm of advanced treatment protocols for greater treatment outcomes.

Gay Wardle is without question today's leading and most influential educator in Australia. Winner of over 12 industry and business awards, she has a strong understanding of the aesthetics industry and the elements that are necessary for a successful salon or aesthetic practice.

Constantly investing in her own education and knowledge, she is not only passionate about training but simultaneously is undertaking a Bachelor's qualification with Victoria University.

MASTERCLASSES IN DERMAL TRAINING INCLUDE: ! One-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Two-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Three-day Journey to Understand and Empower your ! ! !

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Knowledge in Advanced Skin Evaluation Skin Preparation Programs to Optimise Results from IPL, Needling and Microdermabrasion Treatments to Target Pigmentation Understanding Ageing in the Skin and Treatments for Ageing Skin

ENROL TODAY Training Available in most States. For further details and to book Visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au email:gay-da.com.au or info@masterdermalacademy.com.au Ph: 0418 708 455 formerly Advanced Aesthetics

Masters Dermal Academy

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

salonbusiness ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Is Your Business Fit & Profit Healthy?

By Caroline Nelson There are many out of shape and unfit businesses trying to survive in the current marketplace and some could be so unfit that they are gasping their last breath. When your business’s fitness and health deteriorates it generally happens slowly just like personal fitness. One day your fit and healthy and can run up stairs without puffing, and then over time if you don't keep fit and healthy you find the going difficult.

And all of a sudden you find that you are huffing and puffing and gasping to get your breath.

Don't wait until your business is in this condition, critically ill or even terminal, before you take stock and start getting it back into shape. But before you start your salon spa get fit program it will need to have a Business Physical Fitness Check-up first so that the best program can be devised for maximum results with the minimum of discomfort or pain. And let’s be real, if you have left things get to this point there will be a bit of pain – remember 'no gain without pain’, and it applies to your business fitness as well as your personal fitness. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

It's only when you put your business under the Business Physical Fitness Check-up microscope that you will ever have the opportunity to 'see the forest for the trees'. Because if on a day-to-day basis you have been so caught up 'working in your business' performing treatments instead of 'working on the business’, you may have missed the subtle changes your business was undergoing in its downward spiral towards unfit. And little by little you would have started to lose control. It may have started with problem-staff issues, falling rebooking rates, average treatment sales down, slowing retail sales, then the quick slide down the pole to low or no profit. OK so that's the

worst case scenario, but don't let it get anywhere near that before you get your fitness plan in place.

THE BUSINESS PHYSICAL FITNESS CHECK-UP This is the first step I take when I start coaching my salon and spa business owner clients. The Business Physical Fitness Check-up is the Needs Analysis I do to identify any weakness in the business’s structure. It reviews the current quality of policies, procedures and systems, while providing the best solution templates to correct and rectify. And taking into account the business goals and providing the strategies, procedures and/or resources to enable goals to be achieved.

While the optimum is to get a coach or business personal trainer, it doesn't mean you can't make some significant and positive changes on your own.

Answering the following questions will give you insight into your business’s current fitness and health and what steps might be necessary for improvement:

1. What is your businesses niche or Unique Selling Proposition? What does your business offer customers or potential customers that sets it apart from competitors in your trade area?

You've heard the old saying 'Differentiate or Die'? Well in a highly competitive industry you have to offer something a bit different, unique or special to be successful.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 46

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

2. SWOT analysis – To identify your business's Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats. Here are some of the key areas you should investigate. Is your business conveniently located in an area that attracts attention and does it provide good parking?

How does your customer service stack up? Are you offering highly effective treatments or just the basic average? Do you stock the products that offer the results customers are looking for and are they the price they can afford? Does your supplier provide the service and support to help build your business? Could it be that you have the opportunity to be the first in your trade area with the latest technology or a new skincare range? These are just some of the questions you need to know the answers to.

3. Competitors – Who are your head-to-head competitors in your locality? What do you know about their operations? And how do you stack up in regards to Service – Skills – Location – Marketing – Price – Trends – Client Loyalty – Magic Moments? If you don't have the answers to these questions then you need to do a Secret Shopper Survey on these competitors. In this way you will know what you are up against and where you need to improve and just where you could blitz the opposition.

4. Customer Base – Defining your Target Customer. Your business exists for one purpose and that is to make money and profits, and this only happens if you meet and provide to your customers' needs. You need to identify and understand your target customer in many areas. Ask yourself what are their needs, their concerns, their purchase behaviour, their product usage, just to name a few. Knowing your customers will allow you to get better bang-for-your-buck and get your brand message to those more likely to buy from your business.

5. Service & Retail Selling – Is it hit or miss or do you have quality procedures for every step of the way, from the first point of contact with a customer right through the consultation/analysis process, recommendation, and finalising the sale? If you don't then you are leaving money in the customer's wallet that they can and will spend with your competitors.

9. Business Plan and Money Management – A well-prepared business plan is essential throughout the life of your business, not just before you start. You will need it later on to guide your focus, to prepare for expanding the business or to help implement new directions, technologies or products. If you don't have one how will you know where you're heading or even if you have got there? The most common risk to any business comes from lack of financial planning.

㄰

10. The Marketing Plan and Yearly Marketing Planner – If you are in business to make money then you need a Marketing Strategy and a Planner. Plan wisely because to be financially fit you need to have a strong marketing plan, one that focuses on assisting profitability by promoting sales that have a high margin and bring in the cash.

㤵 㜵

㈵

As previously mentioned your business needs to be fit and healthy and never more so than at present. This means you taking control and responsibility for the outcomes of both business profits and productivity and happy, content employees. Sure you will not always get things right and you will make a few mistakes along the way. And there will be difficult times, and as we all know, there is always some pain attached to getting fit, but it will be worth it. And don't forget if you need help then I am only a phone call away. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2012

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry specific business coach specialising in helping salon and spa owners to operate super successful businesses. Her * Salon Spa Staff Policies Systems Manual is recognised as the “industry bible” and one of the most important tools any salon or spa business owner can implement into their business. To find out more about Caroline's business tools and coaching please contact her on 0410 600 440 or check her website www.SalonSpaBusiness.com

6. Customer Service – What's it like? Is it the 'Expected' the 'Above Expectation' or is it the 'EXCEPTIONAL'? The expected is when the customer comes in for a treatment and goes away with having just that. It's only when more is offered or recommended that would improve the customer experience or results outcome that they will receive the 'Wow Factor' and feel they have received 'Exceptional' Customer Service.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

7. Quality Control – Can only be provided if you have the policies, procedures and systems in place to train your staff in the delivery of uniform high-quality service. With the KPIs to measure performance and allow you to control quality outcomes. There is no excuse for any salon or spa to not have a Staff Policies, Procedures and Systems Manual*. It is the blueprint of how you want your business to be operated and it is the most important communication tool between you and your employees. If you don't provide this essential tool for your employees then it's fair to say this lack could be stunting your business profits and will certainly be affecting re-booking rates.

8.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Team Training, Targets, and Rewards – What more can I say

about the need to provide ongoing profit-building training for your employees. It's all been said in the past – so if you're not providing it then start to ASAP. Set stretching, but achievable targets while supporting them to reach and exceed by providing all the tools necessary. And reward them for a job well done.

㈵

APJ 47

skinscience ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

The trauma that heals and rejuvenates

㜵

Collagen Induction Therapy

㈵

㜵

㈵

By Tina Viney

With the onset of ageing skin becomes slackened and starts to manifest lines and wrinkles. While Botox and fillers can be a quick fix they are often not considered as one's first option. Most women, and men for that matter, would gladly opt for a less invasive solution if it worked, and this is the challenge as well as the opportunity that the aesthetics industry faces today. If they can provide credible solutions to skin slackness, fine lines and wrinkles they can secure a client indefinitely. It would be true to say that today's aesthetician is competing with injectibles when it comes to results. How do your results measure up against such procedures? Are you still focused on acceptable standards of past years when improving skin softness and hydration levels was considered the status quo as the result that a facial could offer? Or are you embracing new technologies to achieve skin tightening and improving collagen density as your targeted objective when offering anti-ageing treatments?

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

We know that photo-rejuvenation such as laser, IPL and LED technologies offer credible results, but as a skin therapist you should not limit yourself to one or two technologies. Every technology has its limitation and progressively we are seeing the value and benefit of accessing multiple techniques and technologies and combining them synergistically in a treatment that will often allow us to achieve a breakthrough to high treatment outcomes and results.

When it comes to skin rejuvenation one valuable technology that is progressively gaining recognition is Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) also known as Dermal Micro-Needling (DMN).

True anti-ageing treatments, in order to be worth investing in, must stimulate collagen production, which is what makes the skin look plump, smooth and younger-looking and CIT is a credible collagenboosting alternative to more invasive procedures such as laser resurfacing or strong chemical peels.

So why is CIT a credible alternative? New research in now warning against the dangers of excessive epidermal damage and this can result from excessive microdermabrasion and overpeeling the skin, particularly if it is not followed by recovery treatments to restore the skin's pH balance and support healing and skin renewal.

THE IMPORTANCE OF THE EPIDERMIS According to Dr Des Fernandes, who is one of the world's leading pioneers in the use of vitamins to treat, normalise and protect the skin, you should never damage the epidermis unless the risk of leaving it intact is greater than removing it – and wrinkles are not a good excuse to destroy it. So, before you attempt to rejuvenate facial skin, you need to define exactly what is needed.

We need a perfect epidermis so its moisture is as good as possible – in other words, the horny layer needs to remain intact as in a young skin.

Looking at a cross-section of skin, the horny layer is our main defence against UV rays as well as the environment, while a thick, spiny layer of the epidermis protects against UV rays. The basal keratinocyte layer must be as fresh and active as possible, with minimal deposition of excessive melanin. Equally, skin needs a thick layer of collagen and functional elastin in the dermis. We know that the primary role of the epidermis is as the body's first line of defence. If the epidermis is destroyed the body will become highly susceptible to invading toxins, bacteria and accelerated sun damage to a much greater degree, and this can be detrimental to both our skin health as well as our wellbeing.

Dr Des Fernandes

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 48

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

THE ROOT OF THE PROBLEM If you look at the skin of any “photo-damaged” client under a microscope, you will see each of these main points have been compromised by sun damage – but destruction of the epidermis, using techniques such as laser resurfacing, is no way to correct the problem.

One treatment to help counteract damage at epidermal level is through topical application of the antioxidant vitamins A (its normalising effects will largely restore the epidermis, giving a much more youthful appearance), C and E, as well as beta-carotene – which are both effective and safe.

However, the real problems of wrinkled, sagging skin lies in the dermis. The collagen has been damaged and what should be a thick layer has become thin. Topical application of vitamin A will not produce dramatic changes in the elasticity of the dermis, whereas CIT is very effective in building up the collagen which leads to a tighter, smoother skin. Combined with effective applications of vitamins and anti-oxidants, CIT can provide a powerful and effective tool in stimulating collagen deposition in the dermis.

In his book The Concise Guide to Dermal Needling, Dr. Setterfield explains that preservation of the epidermis maintains environmental protection and minimises downtime. In the treatment of more than 44 patients, none reported post-treatment pigmentation issues, even with sun exposure. The procedure breaks down scar tissue, creating a reorganisation of collagen. He concludes that CIT can be performed successfully on most areas of the body without damage to the epidermis.

However, there is no questioning of the importance of completely understanding that CIT uses thousands of tiny needle pricks into the upper dermis in order to trigger the wound-healing cascade. The therapist's goal and responsibility is therefore to manage the protocol variables (depth of needles, frequency of treatment, topical ingredients and timing of their application) to facilitate optimum results.

PRINCIPLES AND OBJECTIVES

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The principle of skin needling is to stimulate the body's own production of collagen. CIT involves the use of a sterile roller, comprised of a series of fine, sharp needles to puncture the skin.

Medical needling is performed under a local anesthetic; the needling device is "rolled" over the surface of the face to create many microscopic channels deep into the dermis of the skin, which stimulates the body to produce new collagen. At a microscopic level, proliferated skin cells, such as fibroblasts, migrate to the point of injury and transform into collagen fibres, resulting in increased fibre strength and elasticity. This treatment improves the skin by increasing the production of collagen, facilitating natural repair and growth and making the skin stronger and thicker. The new collagen fills depressed scars and wrinkles from the bottom up, lifting the depression so they are level with the surrounding skin. This process takes two to three months to produce visible results, and can also help thicken thinner, fine skin types.

HISTORY OF THE USE OF CIT Facial skin resurfacing can be traced to ancient Egyptian times and the application of abrasive masks of alabaster particles. For centuries, various substances have been used to peel, exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin. These substances include acids, poultices of minerals and plants and direct irritants such as fire and sandpaper-like materials.

The evolution of chemical peeling and skin abrasion into the procedures commonly used today began in the early 20th century. In 1905, a German dermatologist by the name of Kromayer first reported

controlled resurfacing abrasion of the skin. His technique involved the use of rotating wheels and rasps, and except for technical improvements of the equipment, differed very little from present-day skin abrasion. He treated acne scars, keratoses and areas of hyperpigmentation.

An article on skin needling was first written in 1997 by Dr. Andre Camirand, who described his experience with this method. On a number of his patients with facial hypochromic scars, he tattooed the scars with a skin-colour pigment. After one to two years they noticed that even though the pigment was long gone, it was replaced by actual melanin, while the scars were immensely improved in texture, appearance and colour. This gave the idea that trepenation (coming from the Greek word trepanon; to bore) of scars with the tattoo gun was responsible for the improvement and the re-pigmentation of the scar, which often have a paler colour to the rest of the skin due to diminished melanin. They came up with the idea that puncturing the scar tissue with a tattoo gun alone, without pigment, would break down the scar collagen, cause realignment and stimulate melanogenesis. The results of repetitive sessions on scars were reported by Camirand to be more than good and typically consistent, since all of his patients benefited esthetically from this type of treatment.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

In recent times it was the results from cosmetic tattoo through multitrepenation treatments in loosening scar tissue has sparked a renewed interest on the benefits of puncturing the skin as an effective way of reviving and stimulating collagen product in the skin.

Following Dr. Camirand's developments with CIT Dr. Des Fernandes introduced a small stamp-like needling device to induce collagen, and used it as a regular treatment in his surgical practice. He delivered his first paper on skin needling using a 3 mm roller to reduce lip wrinkles to the ISAPS congress in Taipei in 1996. Treatments were painful and required IV sedation and anaesthetic. Further studies by Dr. Fernandes and Dr. Austin Germany concluded that similar results could be obtained using a 1 mm roller. It was also identified that compared with conventional abrasion methods, CIT has undisputable advantages.

The most important one is that the epidermis remains intact, an issue that gives it a clear advantage! Due to the fact that the epidermis is not removed or otherwise damaged, most of the risks and negative sideeffects of chemical peeling or laser resurfacing are eliminated. While the channels in the epidermis have closed within hours, a new collagen-structure starts to form on the dermis under its protective shield.

NEEDLE SIZE AND BENEFITS The popularity of CIT is gaining momentum in aesthetic anti-ageing treatments because of its effectiveness, minimal downtime, ease of use and levels of client satisfaction. However, when choosing to work with CIT it is important for the aesthetic therapist to understand the various needle sizes and which ones are appropriate for aesthetic use.

There are different types of devices, ranging from mechanical to manual models with a needle length from 0.2 mm to 0.3 mm, which are usually designed for home use by the client, to rollers with needles of 0.5 mm designed to be used as a professional treatment by a clinical practitioner, and medical (1mm to 2mm) devices designed for physician use only.

Needle size will also determine its performance, with 0.3mm designed to improve product penetration rather than stimulate collagen.

CIT has been used successfully for the following conditions:

!

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Restores skin tightness in the early stages of ageing. Often, patients who were worried about having a face-lift are satisfied

APJ 49

㄰

THE PROCEDURE The clinical needles used in aesthetics prick and injure the upper 0.5 mm of the dermis. This injury, minute as it might seem, does cause some localised damage and bleeding, which promotes the normal post-traumatic release of growth factors and infiltration of fibroblasts. This reaction is automatic and produces a surge of activity that inevitably leads to the fibroblasts being “instructed” to produce more collagen (which is laid down in the upper dermis, just below the basal layer of the epidermis) and, hopefully, more elastin.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The result is unimportant if you are looking at a single needle prick through the skin. A completely different picture emerges when thousands of fine needle pricks are placed next to each other. A sheet of collagen will be laid down in the area just below the epidermis and slowly shortens after a few months, so the tightening of the skin is progressive. The great advantage of this system is that the results can mimic those obtained with a laser – but without destroying the epidermis.

PROS AND CONS TO TREATMENT

! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

with the result of simple collagen induction therapy Excellent for thin skin that is contra-indicated for laser resurfacing treatment Improves acne scars with superior results to dermabrasion Minimises the depth of fine lines and wrinkles, which respond well to collagen induction therapy Improves scarring. If scars are discoloured they may return to a more natural colour after collagen induction Excellent for sun-damaged skin Reduces the appearance of stretch-marks Induces hair regrowth Excellent after liposuction to strength collagen regeneration and improve skin texture

The advantages of this procedure are that the skin becomes thicker, with an increase in collagen deposition exceeding more than 400 per cent. Of course results will vary depending on needle size as follows.

For the aesthetic therapist who is using a 0.5mm clinical roller they can expect to achieve the following treatment results:

! ! ! ! ! ㄰

! !

Softens fine lines and wrinkles Tightening and improving skin elasticity and tone Reduction of acne ice-pick scars Reduce pigmentation marks Stimulate hair regrowth, especially when combined with appropriate hair-tonic serums Reduce the appearance of stretch marks Smoothes the appearance of cellulite

㤵 㜵

㈵

Medical-size needles of 1mm- 2mm will produce faster results. On the other hand, smaller needles sizes of 0.2mm - 0.3mm roller are recommended for home use to increase the penetration of active ingredients. However, prolonged home use of 2-3 times a week can also promote skin thickening, but to a lesser degree than through the use of 0.5mm needles.

According to Dr Fernandes this method is different to other “needling” techniques which target wrinkled upper lips and difficult scars, since large areas can be treated: the whole face and neck, hands and arms, and even the thighs. However, the technique is exactly the same as tattoo artists have used for centuries – and longterm experience has shown it to be safe. The few problems that do arise with tattooing are generally owing to the pigments tattooed into the skin – and no pigment is used with this treatment.

With the “needling” performed in collagen induction therapy (medical procedure), the skin becomes crimson immediately after the treatment, but bleeding is minimal, and there is only a small ooze of serum – which soon stops. Skin can be covered with an antioxidant vitamin gel to promote both better healing and more even collagen production. By evening, skin feels tight and looks uncomfortable, but is only slightly sensitive. The next day the skin appears less dramatic, and by day four to five it has returned to a moderate pink flush.

Clients or patients should be advised to have iontophoresis (galvanic current) and sonophoresis (ultrasound) treatments with Vitamins A and C to maximise the induction of healthy collagen. Iontophoresis also tends to reduce swelling, which may last for many weeks. As the collagen and elastin are building up and skin is gradually tightening, so the swelling subsequently disappears. The process can be repeated at any time after the epidermis has healed completely.

Among the advantages is that the procedure does not damage skin – which actually becomes thicker. The healing phase is short, and the patient is able to go about in public within five days. And it is not as expensive as laser resurfacing. Moreover, sun-sensitivity is a major and enduring problem in laser resurfacing, whereas after collagen induction therapy the horny layer rapidly returns to its original thickness and skin is not sun-sensitive, however, the skin still requires sun protection. Another advantage is the technique can be carried out both on people who have had laser resurfacing and those with very thin skin. Plus, the treatment works particularly well on small, dilated blood vessels, which may disappear completely, leaving only the major vessels to be treated.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 50

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Disadvantages include a lot of blood ooze, which is not a problem with laser resurfacing. And while we cannot achieve as intense a deposition of collagen as laser resurfacing, repeat treatments of collagen induction therapy will, over time, deliver even better results.

If the treatment is carried out by an under-trained therapist overaggressive “needling” may cause scarring, so it must be carried out by a well-trained therapist, not necessarily a plastic surgeon or dermatologist. The technique is easy to master because it does not require the artistic skills imperative in a tattoo artist. According to Dr Fernandez one complication is the risk of hyperpigmentation, which is higher in darker skin types (IV, V, VI), but this, so far, has not been the case. The procedure needs either a general anaesthetic or extensive local anaesthetic since it is still being developed and tested.

But collagen induction therapy could yet be the answer to a safe, effective alternative in stimulating collagen deposition in the dermis without the disadvantages of laser resurfacing.

CAN CIT BE COMBINED WITH OTHER TREATMENTS? Because CIT does not remove any skin, the "recovery" time is only a few hours and therefore any other advanced treatment like microdermabrasion, peels or IPL can be done within a day of CIT. It is up to the trained therapist to determine and recommend the best treatment plan to meet the needs of the client. This includes pretreatment preparations and post-treatment home-care programs. To maximise the effectiveness of CIT you will need to prepare the skin with an appropriate Vitamin A serum. After the treatment skin recovering products should be recommended such as probiotic skincare to minimise irritation, as well as skin renewal ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, peptitides, Vitamin A and C.

TREATMENT EXPECTATIONS As delivering a CIT treatment is about results you will need to warn your client that this is not a relaxing treatment. Pre-treatment recommendations to assist with comfort levels would be for the client to take 1200 mg of calcium and magnesium as well as a Vitamin B Complex.

Following a salon treatment the client can expect pinking of the skin's surface to occur that will last anywhere from 12-48 hours. With medical needling mild to severe redness, swelling and possible bruising lasts two to three days. The skin may be dry and tight, with tiny crusted areas, and it will have a tanned appearance. Varying amounts of flaking or peeling may occur approximately three days after treatment.

Immediately after the treatment it is important the client also protects the skin with a broad-spectrum UVA and UVB sunscreen, and mineral make-up can also be recommended to minimise the appearance of redness without disturbing the healing process. The use of hydrating light moisturisers rich in hyaluronic acid are highly beneficial in keeping the skin moist. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

TREATMENT FREQUENCIES For effective anti-ageing results, depending on the skin's condition, it is recommended that you perform three to six treatments with approximately one-month intervals between treatments to allow for skin recovery. However, you should notice skin improvement from the very first treatment. Meanwhile, appropriate anti-oxidant and vitamin serums should be recommended for home-care use as well as use of a 0.2 - 0.3mm roller used 2-3 times a week after the first week to assist with deeper product penetration.

Skin will appear smoother and firmer with improved skin colour and younger-looking. Acne scars will take longer to show improvement.

However, age spots and fine lines will be greatly diminished. As the treatment program continues you can expect to see ongoing skin improvement.

Dermal rolling stimulates collagen and elastin production and makes a lasting difference on any skin type at any age. A thorough skin analysis should be conducted prior to any treatment and the qualified therapist can adjust the treatment for the individual's skin and its unique condition.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

PRECAUTIONS With the correct needle size you can virtually treat any skin type and condition without any adverse reaction. To determine this proper training is highly recommended and a thorough understanding of the scope of treatment possibilities as well as the appropriate techniques should be mastered prior to undertaking CIT. CIT treatments have none of the common risks, while they offer all of the advantages of the most invasive and expensive treatments. The needles can only go into the skin so far, but it is the multiple needles within the device and the skilled technique that determines the treatment outcome. The only variable the practitioner must determine is which of the rollers to use.

Even with deep medical needling the damage is minimal and not permanent. Downtime is brief and as a rule the skin tone is restored to normal colour within a few hours or maximum two days. Potential complications are only seen if the healing skin is incorrectly cared for, so strict health and hygiene precautions must be adhered to as well as the appropriate post-treatment care to avoid infection or scarring. A herpes simplex outbreak is possible if one is prone to cold sores. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation may occur particularly with darker skin types so needle size and duration of treatment should be carefully chosen. Of course the success of the treatment will be determined by a through skin analysis and evaluation of skin condition, including Firtzpatrick scale and skin type.

TREATMENT TIME, RESULTS AND FINANCIAL RETURNS Skin needling is a highly effective and profitable treatment. It can be combined with other treatments and usually takes approximately 30 minutes, with the medical procedure taking up to 45 minutes.

Treatment costs can vary from $150-$250, with medical derma-roller treatments costing as much as $750.

CIT produces hundreds of tiny dermal injuries that trigger the body's natural wound-healing response within the skin, producing and depositing new collagen in the treatment area. Each successive treatment triggers the production and deposition of new collagen that progressively fills in depressed scars and deep lines. This filling process can continue for up to 12 months after a treatment has been performed. CIT is an effective and affordable treatment option for improved cellular health and providing excellent anti-ageing results.

Combined with appropriate skincare and other skin-toning technologies such as IPL, Laser, Micro-current and Iontophoresis you can achieve significant improvement in skin firmness, clarity and appearance and provide your clients with the kind of result they can trust and that will meet with their expectations. A multi-disciplinary approach can often deliver similar, yet more natural results than injectibles and fillers.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

REFERENCE Dr Des Fernandes: Collagen Induction Therapy – the new tool in the fight against ageing skin.

Lyn Ross: Dermal Micro Needling

㈵

APJ 51

skinscience ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

How to Revolutionise your Success in

Skin Health and Wellbeing

Part1

By Lynnette Rouse

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Achieving impressive as well as long-lasting results in skin improvement are at the core of every aesthetician's objectives and the success of her career will depend on how successful she will be in achieving these objectives. We now know that to achieve credible results in skin treatments will rely not only on the knowledge, technologies and protocols a therapist uses, but also how well the cells respond to stimulation to such treatments.

One area of study that is gaining a great deal of momentum is the issue of toxic overload that is at the core of poor health, disease and accelerated ageing. Detoxification is very much the buzz word for the benefit of weightloss and improved health, but what about the skin?

Spa owner for almost a decade Lynnette Rouse has years of experience working with medical technologies and using a natural holistic approach to skin health and wellbeing. She holds qualifications in massage and aesthetics and has a Health Science Degree and qualifications in natural medicine. She has studied applications that improve skin health and wellbeing from a natural and medical holistic integrative approach. Lyn believes that when dealing with anti-ageing techniques the area of toxicity in the body is often neglected, but often it is the accumulation of toxicity in the body that plays the strongest contributing factor to accelerated ageing. Through scientific information she has gained she has devised successful protocols that have optimised her treatments to a new levels.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 52

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

In a series of three articles she will address the issue of detoxification and present principles and techniques on how to successfully implement protocols to significantly improve your treatment results as well as enhance your clients' wellbeing.

㤵 㜵

Nutritionist and author Ann Louise Gittleman, PhD, says 'the face seldom lies about your dietary indiscretions'.

Simply put, what you put into your body comes out on your face. The body fully eliminates one-third of its alien invaders' bacteria, viruses and toxins and it does this through the skin. On the other hand, Valori Treloar, MD, who is a board-certified dermatologist, takes a holistic approach to skincare at her Integrative Dermatology clinic in Newton, Massachusetts. She views detoxification as a lifestyle, not an isolated event.

㈵

While most of us are familiar with the concept of toxicity and its impact in health, we often do not realise how it impacts the skin and compromises our treatment outcomes.

On a daily basis we are exposed to internal and external toxins. Toxins can exist in the body with different kinds of chemical bonds and through different molecules. They are believed to be the root cause of most modern diseases.

Toxicity refers to the degree to which a substance is poisonous. Any substance that interferes with the normal process of the body has the potential to be poisonous.

Mechanisms of toxicity are varied and can include: ! Interference with enzyme function ! Blockage of cellular transport mechanisms ! Oxidative damage ! Blockage of receptor sites ! Mimicking of hormones or neurotransmitters ! Blockage of nutrient absorption In 1905, Russian scientist Mechnikov received the Nobel Prize in medicine for his work. He put forward the theory of “self -poisoning”.

It pointed out that excessive waste deposits in the human body for certain reasons result in chronic poisoning and thus various diseases.

Our everyday lifestyle of consuming food, eating and drinking, which are all life necessities, creates toxins in the body. These toxins accumulate over time and are unavoidable as they are generated from hormones in meat, chemical fertilisers, pesticides in grains, fruits and vegetables. They are also produced by X-rayed foods, food bacteria, additives, sweeteners in beverages, MSG, heated and fried foods.

HEAVY METALS Metals can appear in the body with different kinds of chemical bonds.

These different molecules add to the continuing development of toxic scales within the body. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

According to the law of osmosis, we are continuously in exchange with our external surroundings. Having heavy metals materialise in the mammalian system is inevitable because they are part of our external surroundings. For example, if salmonella is found in chicken, salmonella will be found in one's body if they have ingested the chicken. If bacteria are found in red meat, it will also be found in the human body that has consumed the meat. We cannot separate our external surroundings from us, so we must keep our systems clean and in order regularly. Detoxification helps us do that.

TOXICITY AND THE SKIN To improve the vital functions of the dermis, which reflects the external radiance of the skin, detoxification should be something we do regularly throughout the year, as with each seasonal change come also changes also from within. For example, during a winter season when the presence of various pathogens, viruses and multiple pollutants impact the environment they will also impact the various systems of the body, including the skin, and as a result the dermal tissue will reflect what is happening within the body.

This means that detoxification should be done as a part of a lifestyle so that the skin has the opportunity for optimal health throughout every season. Without rectifying the internal toxicity issues, you cannot achieve the best results with your skin treatments. Therefore to achieve wellness and a smooth, radiant, distressed skin that glows, detoxification is a necessity. Furthermore, this is the true essence of anti-ageing.

CLASSIFICATIONS OF VARIOUS TOXINS Our environment is engulfed with toxins that invade and affect the body. Biotoxins, neurotoxins and xenobiotics are toxins that enter the body and attach themselves to the human nervous system. These three toxins operate differently within the body and have different objectives. Biotoxins are pollutants in the body containing sulphur and nitrogen. They are messengers used to control the behaviour, eating habits and immune system of a human body. An example of a biotoxin would be a fungal toxin.

Neurotoxins disseminate in nerve endings and disturb critical tasks of nerve cells. These functions include proper DNA transcriptions and transportation of nutrients. The liver and skin are just a few avenues that these toxins attempt to exit the body. Whereas biotoxins and

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 53

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

neurotoxins are both 'natural' forms of pollutants, xenobiotics are man-made toxins that enter the body. Examples of these are dioxin, insecticides or PCBS.

Being overloaded by toxic material can have damaging effects as it can lead to the impairment of other systems due to the increased amount of toxins that other systems are exposed to.

There are toxins found readily within the environment. We even have toxins in routine life that include toxic materials in cigarettes, alcohol, medicines and clothing. Toxins can also come from bedding, mattresses, cleaning products and medicines.

When the organs of elimination (like the liver, colon and kidneys) become overwhelmed the skin picks up the slack. Second to the bowel, the skin eliminates more waste than any other organ.

We also biologically generate toxins within the body such as lactic acid, uric acid, accumulated intestinal wastes and gallstones. In addition, there are more than 800 kinds of toxins generated during metabolism. These include radical and lipid oxides as well as toxins generated from depression, anxiety, nervousness and other pressures from life. All of these toxins will accumulate into varying levels of toxic scale.

Medications are another example of toxic scale accumulation in the body. Case in point, if the drug residues are calculated by 3%, a patient who suffered from hypertension for 10 years will take three pills three times a day. That would be 32,850 pills for 10 years (filling the size of a bathtub) and he/she will have 246.375g of drug residues inside their body. Which amounts to be: 10x365x3x3=32850 pills x 0.25x0.03 = 246.37, equalling to approximately 500g toxins accumulated inside the body.

Lipid toxic scales are usually found within individuals who consume high caloric, sugar and lipid diets. These ingredients will be accumulated and converted within the body as lipids. The excessive lipid acid and cholesterol accumulation not only generates cardiovascular diseases such as obesity, fatty liver, gallstones, high blood lipid, vascular sclerosis, heart diseases and arterial occlusion, but they also generate cancers and other digenerative diseases.

As documented by the U.S. Center for Disease Investigation, there are mainly two reasons for this. First, fat metabolism impediment leads to a higher level of cholesterol and lipid acid level in blood and hinders the function of immune cells that the radicals and cancer cells cannot remove in a timely matter.

Second, many toxins are fat-soluble. The more contents of lipid in foods, the more harmful materials the body will absorb, leading to a higher possibility for cancer formation.

THE ELIMINATION OF WASTES The liver is the largest detoxification organ in the human body as well as the largest digestive gland. The toxic scales in blood and lymph can only be filtered by the liver. Cholesterol and triglycerides can only be metabolised by the liver. Excessive toxic scales in the liver can lead to blood contamination, autoimmune disorders and lipid metabolism disorders, so removal of toxic scales in liver can restore clean blood and viscera environment.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Toxic scales accumulated inside the intestinal canal will enter into the human body by mucosa and blood. Removal of toxic scales inside the intestinal canal can reduce the contamination of blood and viscera.

There are a number of different avenues that our body takes to protect it against toxins. For example, the immune surveillance and enzyme system uses sweat, breath, bile and urine to process toxins out of the body. Other ways to do this would also include physical barriers and digestive secretions. Our body can also requisition toxins it may not easily be able to deal with. This is why it may store toxins in bones or in other tissue. Being on a weight-loss program could give rise to a serious physical issue because these stored toxins can be released back into your circulatory system.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The gut is a major source of toxic exposure and no amount of liver support can help if the gut is being overwhelmed with more toxic material from the environment or digestive system.

Over a period of time, if enzymes in the body are not being produced effectively, this can lead to the liver being unable to cope with these toxins. This gives opportunity for diseases to occur. The microvilli in the gut can work out a large amount of detoxification. However, the lack of effective enzymes can open the door to a number of illnesses.

TOXICITY AND THE SKIN For disorders such as acne, detoxification will allow the immune system to function better and support the skin to heal more quickly and to minimise the impact of bacterial contamination on the skin. It is said that good living habits are helpful to excrete the toxins inside the body.

However, these toxins still exist in the intestinal system and these habits cannot deal with the toxic scales accumulated inside the internal organs. Toxic scales in the digestive system can promote a number of internal and external issues.

For people with skin problems, detoxification is indispensable. It is the entire process that helps clean and clear your system out. The liver is the major organ that is involved with the detoxification process. It is then the lungs that bring the oxygen to the body and the digestive tract that disperses the nutrients into the cells and nourishes your system.

With the proper equilibrium and operation of vital organs and maintaining a good digestive tract and healthy body, your skin will reap the rewards of detoxification.

Detoxification improves and strengthens the skin's immunity to fight against allergens and pollution, and suppress inflammation. It allows more synergistic delivery of nutrition and cellular absorption to support the skin's health. Manifestations of poor skin immunity can include eczema, very dry or oily skin, dark eye circles, puffy eyes and rashes.

IN CONCLUSION There are numerous ways to assist the body with effective detoxification from health fruit and vegetable juices to supplementation and dietary changes. Additionally, herbal tea infusions can be very beneficial as are spa and thermal sauna therapies and quantum magnetisation technologies. With the variety of methods available, selecting the right method will allow you to support the body to eliminate harmful toxins in a safe and healthy way to keep the body and the skin clean and functioning at optimal levels.

However, selecting the right detoxification program for your client can be either simple or complex and will depend on various factors.

This is a comprehensive subject that I will be addressing in my next article. We will look at how to select the best detoxification method for the personal needs of each client. I will present some practical solutions that a skin therapist can follow to support their clients' health and optimise their skin-treatment results. With some simple and easy to implement protocols you will be able to revolutionise your clients' skin health and wellbeing.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 54

starperformer ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

SKIN O2

㤵 㜵

MEDI MICRODERMA FUSION

㈵

fields, or simply working in front of a computer every day depletes our negative ions as much of the technology that we are surrounded by release positively charged ions.

Microdermabrasion is the most popular requested beauty treatment at most med-spas at present, according to Alison Atia, Managing Director of Skin O2.

“Dr Atia's clever and hygienically sound Aussie design is taking microdermabrasion to the next level,” Alison said.

The 3-in-1 Skin O2 Microderma Fusion system is extremely costeffective and offers a total all-in-one facial-rejuvenation treatment. If you sell only 1-2 treatments per week it’s paid for itself!

Experience the quality of crushed diamond tips with ionic infusion for cleaner, clearer and calmer skin. See why more doctors choose Skin O2 to get better skin results and save thousands of dollars by swapping to this elite system. This system doesn't just exfoliate like the old-style microdermabrasion system it restores skin back to perfection in three easy steps.

Dr Atia's feel-good anti-ageing and anti-acne facials start with an antibacterial micro-exfoliation to hygienically remove dead skin cells, while deeply cleansing and helping smooth away imperfections.

This is followed by a plumping and hydrating infusion of collagen, or brightening trans-dermal solutions, combined with soothing ioninfusion therapy to revitalise the skin from inside out. With Dr Atia's Microderma Fusion Facial, your client's skin has a more radiant and healthier-looking glow that you only get with total skin rejuvenation.

The new Skin O2 Medi Microderma Fusion, developed by Gold Coast Cosmetic Surgeon Dr Atia, offers not only excellent results in treatment outcomes, it also offers a very pleasurable experience.

Making sure the treatment also feels fantastic will contribute to the client experience and deliver better anti-ageing result.

It is a scientific fact that stress dramatically ages us, so one of the protocols to a successful anti-ageing treatment should be to de-stress and relax your client, leaving them with a feel-good experience.

The idea behind this type of ion therapy is similar to the way in which a sauna works. Temperatures inside both steam and dry saunas become very hot, thus making us perspire. Toxins are released from the body through perspiration. Ion therapy that is targeted at the body works in the same way, but instead of inducing perspiration, it pulls toxins out via an electric current. While toxins are being released, positive ions in the body are also neutralised so that they can't harm the body.

WHAT ARE THE RESULTS OF THIS TREATMENT? After sloughing off dead skin cells and encouraging a healthier cellular turnover for smoother, finer, more even toned skin, the Skin O2 Medi Microderma Fusion utilises smart technology which targets and converts air from the pump into negative ions and emits them back out through the micro-infusion tip along with the infusion of hydrating, anti-ageing and skin-brightening serums. These negative ions help neutralise any positive ions within a certain area on the skin, creating a healthier bio-environment. They also help to neutralise or destroy many other particles such as harmful bacteria and some allergens that often cause skin problems.

There are many symptoms associated with positive ion overexposure, often created from just working at our office computer, such as fatigue, headaches, allergies, and other skin or hair conditions.

The Skin O2 Medi Microderma Fusion offers you the option of either crystal or diamond-tipped applications, combining ion and infusion therapy. It also features in-built internal UV sterilisation capabilities for added hygiene.

Discover why more doctors prefer Skin O2 today!

For more information visit: Web www.skino2.com.au Email sales@skino2.com.au or ph: 07 5593 4488.

The Skin O2 Medi Microderma Fusion technology leads the way in new treatments for clients and patients, combining both skin and mind therapy for the benefit of total rejuvenation and revitalisation.

This Skin O2 ion infusion treatment is the essential restorative facial for stressed or busy people. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

WHAT ADDITIONAL EXCITING FEATURES ARE AVAILABLE FROM THE NEW SMART TECHNOLOGY?

㤵

Dr Atia insisted in utilising and re-creating the same negative ion biochemistry that makes you feel good. This negative ion environment will offer you the same benefits that you will experience if you are walking along the beach or breathing the fresh air of a forest or a waterfall. These negative ions have been encapsulated and released on the skin in a 20-minute cosmetic facial treatment. Working in a busy environment full of electromagnetic

㜵

㈵

APJ 55

legalmatters ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

INDIVIDUAL FLEXIBILITY ARRANGEMENTS Meeting your obligations with workplace staff arrangements

By Amelita Hensman Senior Associate Pointon Partners Lawyers

As a business owner, when planning your staff members’ working arrangements it is important that both the business's needs are met as well as your obligation according to the law. In this article Amelita Hensman from Pointon Partners Lawyers explains the issue of flexibility arrangements as outlined by the current Fair Work Act 2009, and the options available to you and your staff when planning workplace arrangements.

The Fair Work Act (Cth) 2009 ('the Act') seeks to promote workplace flexibility through the use of individual flexibility arrangements ('IFAs'). IFAs allow for variations to modern awards such as the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010 ('the Award'), in order to meet the genuine needs of employers and individual employees while ensuring minimum entitlements and protections are not undermined.

Modern awards set out the minimum terms and conditions of employment for groups of employees performing similar tasks or who are employed by the same employer. These instruments are collective in nature and apply to many employees and thus may not take into account the specific circumstances of individual employees and the employer.

However, every modern award must include a 'flexibility term' which allows an employer and an individual employee to agree on an arrangement that varies the effect of the modern award. The Act ensures these arrangements do not undermine minimum employee entitlements by requiring the employer to ensure that an employee covered by the IFA is better off overall on the IFA compared to the modern award the IFA varies. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

WHAT IS THE EFFECT OF AN IFA? An IFA can be used to vary certain terms of a modern award as it applies to that particular employee covered by the IFA. For example, the Award provides for certain penalty rates for weekend work. An IFA between an employer and an individual employee could provide for increased hourly rates in exchange for no penalty rates for weekend work, as long as the employee is better off overall than if there was no IFA. The unvaried Award will continue to apply to other employees unaffected by the IFA. The IFA has effect as if it was actually a term of the modern Award and can be enforced as such.

Flexibility terms within modern awards will only allow IFAs to vary as follows:

! ! ! ! !

Arrangements for when work is performed, such as working hours Overtime rates Penalty rates Allowances Leave loading.

This means modern award entitlements relating to any of these five award matters may be varied by agreement between an employer and an individual employee provided that, overall, the employee is ‘better off’ under the IFA.

WHAT IS THE BETTER OFF OVERALL TEST? The Better Off Overall Test (BOOT) is the test that Fair Work Australia ('FWA') must apply to a proposed enterprise agreement before it can be approved. IFAs under modern awards must also satisfy the test, although the agreement only requires the approval of the employer and the individual employee (and not FWA).

The BOOT will compare the terms of a proposed IFA against the relevant modern award to make sure employees will be better off overall. This usually means comparing the employee's financial benefits under the IFA with the financial benefits under the applicable modern award. The employee's personal circumstances and any nonfinancial benefits which are significant to the employee can also be considered.

It is the employer's responsibility to ensure that the employee is better off overall than if there was no IFA. It is also the employer's responsibility to ensure that the IFA is made correctly and meets all the requirements of the Act.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 56

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

HOW ARE IFAS MADE?

HOW IS AN IFA TERMINATED?

An employee or employer can initiate a request for an IFA. An employee or employer cannot be forced to enter into an IFA and a person cannot be treated adversely or discriminated against for refusing to agree to an IFA. It is the employer's responsibility to ensure that an employee has genuinely agreed to an IFA. When making an IFA, an employer should keep in mind any language or cultural differences that might impact on the employee's understanding of the terms of the IFA or their choice to agree to an IFA.

The IFA should include information about how the IFA may be terminated. Generally, an IFA may be terminated by agreement or by either party giving the required written notice. Modern awards require 28 days notice.

An IFA must be in writing and signed by the employer and the employee. If the employee is under 18 years of age, it must also be signed by the employee's parent or guardian.

!

Once an IFA has been made, it is the employer's responsibility to ensure that a copy of the IFA is given to the employee. The employer should also retain a copy.

An IFA can only be made after the relevant employee has commenced employment and is entitled to the minimum award conditions prescribed by the relevant modern award. This means that an employer cannot ask a prospective employee to agree to an IFA as a condition of employment.

WHAT HAPPENS IF AN IFA IS NOT MADE PROPERLY? ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

If an IFA is not made properly, the terms of the IFA still continue to govern the employee's terms of employment as if it was made properly. This ensures that employees keep any benefits to which they are entitled to under the IFA. However, an employee can terminate an IFA if they believe they are being disadvantaged. The employee may be able to take action for compensation and penalties in that case.

If an employer fails to ensure that an IFA is properly made in accordance with the Act, they may be liable to a penalty of up to $6,600 for an individual or $33,000 if the employer is a body corporate.

CONCLUSION Employers who are working at best practice will:

! ! ! ! !

Ensure that IFAs are used to reflect the genuine needs of the particular situation of the employee and employer Ensure the IFA does not disadvantage an employee and leaves the employee covered by it better off overall Ensure employees are not unduly influenced or pressured to agree to an IFA. Employees should be given reasonable time to consider a proposed IFA and opportunity to raise issues with their employer and vice-versa Allow employees to be represented if they wish when negotiating an IFA with their employer Be open to approaches from employees about making IFAs Give genuine consideration to an employee's request for an IFA.

Pointon Partners has experience in advising on all issues relating to intellectual property and the registration of business and company names. If you have any queries in relation to the above article or you have any other enquiries, Amelita Hensman or Michael Bishop of Pointon Partners can be contacted on (03) 9642 8668 or by email mjb@pointonpartners.com.au or ah@pointonpartners.com.au

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 57

bodytreatments ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

As the battle against obesity and cellulite continues to grow the need for salons to provide solutions for this epidemic is constantly on the rise. According to the Australia Bureau of Statistics the highest percentage of obesity is in the 65-74 age-group, and this is as a result of progressive accumulation of weight over the years due to hormonal imbalance, sedentary lifestyle and toxicity. All these factors contribute to metabolic syndrome and are as a result of not taking the appropriate progressive measures earlier in life to manage the problem.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Furthermore, being overweight can challenge self-confidence and impact negatively on one's appearance, not to mention energy levels. While diets can help in weight reduction they often fail to stabilise the weight loss due to high toxic levels in the body and other health-related issues that compromise a successful long-term result.

However, help is at hand.

EFFECTIVE SOLUTIONS Two highly advanced technologies that create an incredible dynamic synergy are leading the way to improve the shape of the body, assist in weight loss and weight management, and also offer incredible relief in pain due to arthritic or muscular disorders.

Both the IMPACT and the PRESOR-03 are

TWO POWERFUL TECHNOLOGIES lead the way to cellulite reduction and pain management

㄰

gaining recognition within the medical aesthetic industry for their proven results and their ability to create long-term benefits.

ultrasonic power emitted and the intensity of electroporation for maximum treatment efficacy.

The Sorisa IMPACT is the latest technological advancement that has a significant and measurable effect on localised areas of fat, reduction of cellulite and skin flaccidity, while minimising pain in the body.

IMPACT uses the cutting edge ultrasound cavitation technique with electroporation to multiply the effects of the procedure, redefining and sculpting the figure, while diminishing cellulite and localised areas of fat and eliminating waiste from the body. It also highly effective in improving skin texture and toning post liposuction.

Leading clinics, medispas, spas and salons are increasing their profile through the introduction of these treatments to meet the needs of a growing trend for body shaping and weight management.

Cavitation is a specific technology (equivalent to liposuction) that generates deeper and slower penetrating waves that are directed at the fat-cell layers of the skin to dissolve and effectively reduce the volume of fatty tissue. It is designed to target the thighs, hips, abdomen and even arms, disrupting the fat cells without damaging the surrounding tissues. The fat is then eliminated from the body naturally through the lymphatic system.

㤵 㜵

㈵

With the combined action of electroporation that facilitates the deeper penetration of a highly concentrated active gel it further enhances the sculpturing of the body and offers significant loss in centimetres. The IMPACT protocols offer an effective means of improving metabolism, destroying fat-cell membrane, removing toxins and facilitating the absorption of nutrients. Its exceptional and exclusive design probes allow the therapist to view the state of the treatment, the

When IMPACT is combined with the Sorisa Presor-03 Therapy the results are phenomenal. Presor-03 offers clinically tested and proven results in the fields of medicine, post-cosmetic surgery and physiotherapy. In addition, when used in conjunction with spa and beauty services (facials and body treatments) results are always beyond expectation.

FEATURES AND BENEFITS Presor-03 works by computerised air pressure that inflates into a boot (similar to a body wrap) covering feet, legs, hips, buttocks and abdomen. This gentle pressure continually moves across the lower body and over the abdomen, pumping into the different compartments at varying dosage rates. Simple and efficient, taking only 25 minutes, it offers immediate results in relieving feelings of tiredness, jet lag, hangover, stress and low energy. The Presor-03 can be customised to the concerns, is comfortable, safe and relaxing. Its application activates the return circulation (venous and lymphatic flow) by stimulating the reabsorption of interstitial fluids and the drainage of these fluids towards the organic filtering mechanisms. It promotes effective lymphatic drainage, helping the body eliminate toxic wastes

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 58

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

and cleansing and strengthening the immune system. In addition to its detoxification benefits it offers relief to menopausal symptoms, headaches, muscular aches and pains, hormonal imbalances, varicose veins, oedema, circulatory disorders, sluggish skin and speeding up recovery after cosmetic surgery.

㄰

Additionally, it has proven beneficial in pain management due to arthritis or accident traumas as the testimonials confirm.

㤵 㜵

㈵

TESTIMONIALS In 1992 I was involved in a car accident where I flipped and rolled the car several times. It was a miracle that my children and I were not killed and were able to walk away from the mangled mess. As a result of this trauma, however, I suffered from constant pain in my body and a lack of deep sleep. All this led to further complications as soon I was also diagnosed with chronic fatigue and fibromyalgia. I was introduced to the Presor-03 machine by my daughter who saw it advertised in the gym. I have undertaken Presor03 treatments on a daily basis for a month and the results have been amazing. I am now almost pain free, I am sleeping more soundly and I have regained my energy. These treatments have helped me get my life back again. My husband is thrilled and colleagues have noticed a

IMPACT huge difference in me. Thank you to the girls at Chelsea Salon for introducing me to this amazing treatment – it has changed my life.

P.Headell, NSW. I was involved in a serious head-on collision with a tray-back utility and was treated at the scene of the accident and taken to the Redlands Hospital by ambulance. People at the scene were amazed that I could walk away from such a severe accident virtually unscathed. I attribute my ability to survive to my healthy lifestyle, exercising and treatments with the magical Presor-03 machine that I had been having daily through Chelsey's Day Spa. Prior to the Presor-03 treatments I had very poor circulation, cramps and a sluggish lymphatic system, which also contributed to other ailments.

Now I feel a whole new woman, able to breathe easily and feel alive again. Thanks to the short time I have been undertaking these treatments at Chelsey's I am thrilled to provide such a positive report of how my life has been changed for the better.

Robyn Walker, Qld After liposuction I was left with loose and dimpled skin on my inner thighs – it looked like cellulite without the underlying fat.

This concerned me and I was introduced to the Presor-03 treatments at my salon. For take-home treatment I was advised to use the Skeyndor Light Body Cream. Within four days of its use I started to see an improvement in my skin tone. I therefore undertook six treatments of Presor-03, Dermasonic and Bodyter. The combination of treatments was amazing. The skin on my thighs now looks much firmer and toned, with almost no dimpling. I would recommend this treatment with confidence.

H.Frost, NSW

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

IMPACT The latest generation of Cavitation System

The alternative to Lipo-Suction that Works at the Speed of Sound

It is so worth having this treatment done (Presor-03). I have lost 5 kilos in 2 weeks! I had a personal trainer for a whole year and I could never shift the weight particularly in my arms, but after one treatment I could see a dramatic change not only in the my arms but everywhere else! Melinda Pestana, NSW

㄰

IMPACT and Presor-03 can be used independently, however, when combined as complementary treatments they can notably accelerate credible result for all of the above conditions. These treatments are the new growth sector in demand from leading salons and clinics.

㤵

Call Vogue Image Group on 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033 or email info@vogueimage.com.au

㜵

㈵

APJ 59

businesscoach ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Business Coaching with a Personal Touch Bringing a fresh new approach to business coaching Victoria Allpress offer a unique personalised style that not only utilised business strategies, but also intuition as to what makes each business unique. Here we asked Victoria to share a little about her philosophy and her coaching style and what she believes is at the heart of a successful business.

To achieve success from a business coach you first need to adopt the right frame of mind and have the ability to take action and implement the recommended changes that will create an outcome that you want from your business.

By creating just one change, a fresh new approach can allow your business to move forward. It is also important to dump old beliefs that have failed to produce the revenue that the business needs to continue to operate and grow.

The most important question you need to ask is “is the business making enough money to move forward?” If it is not, it is critical to hire an expert who can help change things around by implementing the right strategies and systems that can alter the flow of revenue and help you establish a profitable business.

㄰

㈵

Another valuable question to ask is “Is your business providing the right niche for your location and demographics?” Do you have enough cash flow in the business and when can you ask for investors?

STEP 3: Are you, as a business owner part of the staff, or are you hiring good staff to whom you are delegating the running of the business, while you are working on the business and overseeing that the business is going in the direction you want it to go?

STEP 4: Are your staff doing the right thing by you and are you validating and praising them appropriately to keep them loyal and committed to you? To achieve successful staff make sure everyone knows their responsibilities in the business and are properly trained.

Don't hire staff with the only criteria to secure a cheap hourly rate as this will ultimately reflect on you the business owner.

HERE ARE JUST SOME VALUABLE STEPS THAT CAN HELP YOU GAIN THE MOST FROM YOUR COACH:

STEP 5: In marketing your business are you at a crossroad and fed up with spending money that's not getting you the return that you are looking for? This step is very important and can save you a lot of money if you conduct your marketing in the right way. Are your clients happy? Are they loyal to your business?

STEP 1: The coach should identify and assess the business's viability and the necessary strategies needed to turn the business around. It is also vital that the coach and the business owner develop a sound understanding and establish common values that will allow them to work together towards the salon owner's objectives. These objectives could include, attracting more clients, achieving happy staff, implementing new services, hiring staff that will add value to the business etc.

These are just five areas that should be reviewed. With the right approach, experience and direction a good business coach can soon turn the situation around guiding you into implementing winning strategies that will help you achieve the outcomes that you want for your business.

㤵 㜵

After these assessments it is important to take an objective view of what is really happening in your business. The objective of change is to not only grow the business's revenue but to also offer your clients something fresh and new that will add to exceptional client service and stimulate repeat business.

STEP 2: Once you communicate the objectives the business coach will then conduct a business health check to determine its viability? Is the business making money? What are the business's short term and long-term goals and are the regularly reached? Can the business expand and create other passive income for you? What is the current business focus? Do you want to change?

㄰

Victoria Allpress is a qualified educator and business coach. She can assist your business to achieve the success you want for your business. If you would like Victoria to assist you to grow your business and achieve your goals please contact her for further details.

Email Victoria on beautycoachconnect@gmail.com to arrange a personalised appointment or you can call on 0407 745 018 www.beautycoachconnect.com.au

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 60

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

IMPACT The latest generation of Cavitation System

㤵 㜵

㈵

The alternative to Liposuction that Works at the Speed of Sound The Sorisa IMPACT is the latest advanced technology that offers impressive results on localised areas of fat, reduction of cellulite and skin flaccidity. Sorisa uses cutting edge ultrasound technology at an impressive 40KHz function delivered through cavitation technique and combined with electroporation to multiply the results of the procedure, redefine and sculpture the figure and diminish the appearance of cellulite and localised areas of fat.

With IMPACT you will gain true results:

! ! ! ! !

Destruction of fat cell membrane Improve cellular metabolism Release deposits from fat cell walls Effective removal of toxins and wastes Increase absorption of nutrients

Call VOGUE IMAGE GROUP now 1800 55 45 45

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

salonprofile ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

A Business Transformation ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Innovators are always survivors and Christine Comans possesses both business savvy and charisma to make it in any economy. Identifying a business opportunity to purchase a salon on the decline Christine purchased Ur Body, a salon situated in the metropolitan suburb of East Victoria Park in Perth, Western Australia. In less than 12 months the salon has been transformed from a declining tanning salon into a highly successful anti-ageing clinic. In this interview she discusses the state of the industry in Western Australia and shares with us the elements that have contributed to the success of her business.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 62

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

APJ1. Christine, tell us a little about the state of the beauty industry in Western Australia.

What changes have you experienced in the past two to three years?

Christine: For us the industry is always evolving and taking on new dimensions of growth. The introduction of the “discount websites” is a trend in Western Australia as well and has led to some businesses going broke.

However, on a better note, many clients are returning to their original salon if they believe that the quality of services and products are superior. Clients are looking for sound investments of their dollars. A return to quality is definitely on the increase. Having said that, the Web discount deals can still work if done correctly. For example, we are introducing a new technology with cutting-edge results with cellulite.

Our promotion is for a very special low price for one treatment for clients to experience it as a means of introducing them to the new treatments. Out policy is to treat each client as they were paying in full and allow them to gain first-hand understanding and experience of what is involved and what the treatment can offer them. In this way it can be a very effective marketing tool.

㤵 㜵

㈵

Christine Comans

APJ2. When did you start your new salon and what made you choose the location you are in?

Christine: Our new salon started in October 2010. It was an unusual beginning as the location had been trading as a tanning salon since 1992, but the industry was in bad shape and the owner wanted to walk away. After conducting a demographic study on the area we decided it could work if we utilised the database and cross-promoted to the existing clients. We felt that the location had potential and we were right.

APJ3. What services did you introduce and why?

Christine: As our salon is in a high socio-economic

㄰ 㤵 㜵

location we decided that we would provide specialty antiageing treatments rather than the lower-end services. We offer IPL treatments, skin needling, paramedical peels, microdermabrasion, cosmetic tattooing, cellulite treatments, vascular treatments, microcurrent for skin toning, cosmetic teeth whitening and light-based treatments, along with some regular beauty treatments, waxing, tinting, etc. We do not operate with just a standard menu, but customise our treatments to our clients’ needs.

We also have a doctor that offers fraxel laser, wrinkle relaxers and fillers. It's all about understanding your demographics and catering to their needs.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㈵

APJ 63

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

APJ4. How are you finding consumer spending overall?

Christine: There's no doubt that things are tough out there, but we try to stay very proactive with our marketing campaigns to continue to grow our client-base as we started with a relatively small clientele.

Thankfully, I'm pleased to say that we are experiencing a continued increase in client spending. Our focus is on quality and value, and when clients recognise this they will invest in what we have to offer with greater confidence.

APJ5. In order to sell packages what structure do you believe can help clients invest in them?

Christine: With us, it's all about taking the time to engage with our

㄰

clients, listen to them and carefully assess their needs in order to determine what's best for them and not going for a one size fits all approach. We tailor individual packages combining different modalities to reach the very best outcome for every individual client and this is the key to our success. If the client believes that they have purchased something that has been specifically designed for them they are likely to invest in it more confidently and stick to the program to achieve the results.

㤵 㜵

㈵

and promote our services and for an opportunity for our clients to bring a guest along. We also have client reward programs to show our appreciation to loyal and supportive clients, and to continue to foster and nurture our relationship with them on a personal and professional basis.

We also have an excellent networking relationship with our doctor.

As she becomes familiar with our services she often refers client to us as well, so it is a two-way relationship that benefits both parties. For example, with a breast-cancer patient she will refer them to us for nipple areola re-pigmenting cosmetic tattooing. Advertising in the community newspaper we have also found has worked well for us.

APJ7. Why did you join APAN and what role do you believe it plays in supporting you professionally and in your business?

Christine: Professionally it's all about staying connected with the industry, so for me there is no question – it's a must, especially being in Western Australia as we often miss out on a lot that goes on in our industry, so APAN keeps you up to date with events, training, etc.

APJ6. Tell us a successful marketing strategy that brought you great results?

Christine6: I think to be successful is not one thing, it's about

In business it's about keeping up with changes in legislation, and all those things that can sometimes be tricky when employing staff.

APAN supports me with all things related to my business and professional development, so I wouldn't be with out it.

combining several strategies. The Shortcuts software we use is amazing with all the set-and-forget marketing tools. We also use client welcome packs that contain “refer-a-friend” items. This also helps to bring in new clients. We also hold events within the salon to educate

Christine Comans can be contacted at Ur Body phone 08 9472 2604, East Victoria Park, WA.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 64

SKIN O2 DERMA FILL FACIAL

industryreport ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Changes & Reviews for the Australian Aesthetics Industry

An INDUSTRY REPORT

By Tina Viney How times have changed! I have been involved in the aesthetics industry for over 40 years and in a leadership capacity for 24 of those years and the number one service that the industry would seek from an Association was always for the purpose of getting a better insurance cover. Now this has all changed.

Each morning in my email box and on the phone the number one concern I receive would have to do with industrial relations. Staffing issues, employment contracts and getting it right when it comes to Fair Work.

“Should I put my staff on a contract, and when is a contract not considered as such, because it does not meet with the government's definition of a contract?”

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

For example if you hire someone as a contractor, and as part of your agreement they are to wear your uniform, work certain days and be expected to stay the whole day even if there are no bookings, according to the government that is defined as an employee and not a contractor. The rules have changing and many, many within this industry are still operating with outdated employment agreements and complying to regulations that are no longer in existence.

Trying to understand the current Fair Work wage regulations is not an easy task and I fully empathise with many of you. Through our consultation services to our members we attempt to minimise some of this stress by taking care of your questions on an individual basis and getting a right answer back to you as quickly as possible. With the help of a very competent law firm, Pointon Partners, who are based in

Melbourne and specialise in business and industrial relations law, we are confident that we can provide you with an excellent service in this regard regardless of your State.

FAIR WORK ACT 2009 REVIEW This year we have several important activities that we have undertaken. As many of you are aware the Fair Work Act 2009 was up for review and industries were requested to put forward submissions with their recommendations on what they would like to see improved upon or changed. APAN put forward a request to the industry to present us with concerns as we were submitting a report on behalf of the Aesthetics and Beauty Industry. We received many responses and in summary below are the most prevalent concerns the industry presented to us:

!

Penalty Rates – Many of you expressed concerns that casuals attract between $30-$40 an hour to work on weekends and public holidays and this was unfeasible for most businesses.

! !

Award Flexibility – Another area was the flexibility provision.

While in theory a great idea, some were fearful of failing to meet the “better off overall” requirement.

㄰

Mapping qualifications up against salaries – Several

㤵

expressed concerns that matching the right wage level in the Award against the qualifications was sometimes difficult, and in particular with trainees and apprentices.

!

㜵

Unfair dismissal – This was another area of concern. The comments were that when dealing with unfair dismissals and establishing procedures that are flexible, informal and quick, this was only possible if the business agrees to a financial settlement

㈵

APJ 66

㄰ 㤵

for the sake of expediency, regardless of the merits of the claim.

!

concerns that getting information from Fair Work was only verbal and not in writing. This caused several businesses conflict with their staff as often the advice received from Fair Work was very different than the ones obtained by an employee who was “checking up on what the boss had told her”.

㜵

㈵

Getting information from Fair Work – There were several

!

Equal pay rate regardless of skill sets – Great concerns were expressed when an employer was required to pay the full award wage to a new employee who presented with a certain “qualification”, while in fact they were totally untrained in certain procedures such as Brazilian waxing or microdermabrasion.

Many of you felt that it was fair to pay full rate to a new staff member who was being orientated to your business's policies and procedures, but not if they had to be trained from scratch.

While we cannot be responsible for the law, APAN is meeting its obligations to service you by voicing your concerns to the government and providing you with the best possible advice through our solicitors, Pointon Partners who have been invaluable in supporting our members with advice and recommendations almost on a daily basis.

This is just one of the services that members receive at no extra charge.

IPL/LASER LICENSING While I welcome the recent government approved qualification SIB70110 Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL & Laser Hair Reduction it is quite disappointing that it only covers hair reduction and not skin rejuvenation.

㤵

Tasmania is the first State to establish regulations for IPL and we intend working closely with them for the purpose of a new national strategy. Members will be kept posted on progress. If you would like to receive direct communication on these and other matters, I urge you to join APAN as a financial member. We need your support to create an even stronger voice for our industry.

㜵

ADVANCES IN COSMECEUTICAL ㈵

㄰

THE IMPACT OF GFC ON BUSINESSES

I can report with great excitement that product innovations are on the increase, breaking through previous limitations and barriers on what could be achieved through topically applied skincare. Indeed, in this journal you will find several interesting innovations that will allow you to achieve results that were not possible in the past. Advances in

㤵 㜵

㈵

On a more sombre note, from our records alone over 2500 beauty and aesthetic businesses have either substantially downsized or closed down during the past 30 months. Surviving in business today requires that owners and managers take a serious look at analysing every aspect of their operations to identify what is working and what is not.

In today's financial climate you cannot afford to continue to offer unprofitable services. Reviewing your business is now highly critical if you are to survive. This is the best time to engage a business coach or to enlist the support of a capable organisation such as APAN. We offer incredible business support and expert advice on any aspect of your business and for this you pay a membership fee that is negligible. I am happy to report that none of our members have left the industry other than a handful who felt it was time to retire and enjoy other activities.

I can report with great excitement that product innovations are on the increase, breaking through previous limitations and barriers on what could be achieved through topically applied skincare. Indeed, in this journal you will find several interesting innovations that will allow you to achieve results that were not possible in the past.

Meanwhile the issue of licensing (or lack thereof) for the protection of the consumer and the reputation of light-based therapies as being safe, reliable and efficacious continues to be a major concern to the industry and the broader community. The media, as always, has had a field day bringing to the forefront the lack of regulations by reporting on incidents of horrific burns. Their attempts to reach government representatives were met with “no comment”, while the accusations continue. As for APAN, we have been involved in putting forward recommendations and rigorously pursing this issue with the national body ARPANSA (Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency) to no avail. This is now becoming a critical issue and we will be adopting a new strategy for lobbying the government, which we believe will have greater potential for us to be heard.

㄰

nanotechnology are allowing ingredients that could not penetrate the skin to now reach to the dermis and significantly improve the skin and even reverse damage. We know that procedures such as Botox and fillers will continue to remain popular, however, they usually have a limited life span of 3-6 months, while our treatments, by stimulating our own physiology, have the potential to offer a broader range of benefits not only in skin improvement, but also in achieving a more youthful appearance. I believe in the not-to-distant future we will be able to achieve a level of improvement that will take years off one’s appearance, while leaving the individual still looking like themselves.

APAN now has over 40 support document templates to help businesses become compliant and effectively deal with various areas of their business.

These documents can be purchased as very affordable prices and are invaluable in offering you the tools you need to become more proficient in how you operate.

It is also encouraging to note that we are seeing an increasing number of businesses who are achieving their sales and business targets and even experiencing continued growth despite what is happening around them.

We can also report that many salons now believe that the frenzy of the “web-based coupons” is finally subsiding, as many clients are returning to their salons realising that the cheap deal was in fact not really worth it. This outcome is further supported by a recent survey conducted by the Macquqarie Equities Research that presented results that indicated that consumers are starting to favour specialty shops and services over budget shops. Value and quality advice it seams is what they are looking for and that is good news for the aesthetics industry.

With this trend we will see consumers gravitating to experts and specialists where their investment would be entrusted to gain the best possible advice, the best products and the best service that their money can buy.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 67

cosmetictattoo ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

SENSUOUS LIPS - How to get them with a

COSMETIC TATTOO TREATMENT

by Val Glover-Hovan Cosmetic Tattoo Specialist & Educator COSMETIC TATTOO AUSTRALIA As I put pen to paper, it has been a sad week since I received the news that my mentor and friend, Pati Pavlik of Cleo Colors, died peacefully in her sleep at her ranch in Tehachapi, California, USA on 5th February 2012. Pati experienced firsthand the birth of the Permanent Makeup industry in the USA in the early 1980s and was often referred to as “The Mother of Permanent Makeup”. She founded the industry's first association, National Cosmetic Tattooing Association (NCTA), in the USA in an attempt to better educate practitioners and instructors, and developed the first line of pigments called Cleo Colors, used specifically for Cosmetic Tattooing. Pati was also an author of two educational books, one of which every Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioner should own, Through My Eyes – A Tattooist’s Journey in Permanent Makeup. I had the pleasure of sponsoring her to Australia for two

separate educational seminars and Cosmetic Tattoo Australia is the Australian distributor of all her products. She will be sadly missed by our industry. A favorite saying of hers was “A love affair with knowledge will never end in heartbreak”.

This profession holds a lot of responsibility for you, the Cosmetic Tattoo practitioner. I have had the opportunity to work on tens of thousands of people over the past 27 years and have watched how Cosmetic Tattoo treatments have enhanced the lives of so many, from the big screen to the office, from the bedroom to the swimming pool.

It is proven that Cosmetic Tattoo or Semi Permanent Makeup, when done well, has the power to instil confidence in a person's image. The

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

LIP ENHANCEMENT – BEFORE

LIP ENHANCEMENT – AFTER

APJ 68

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

way a woman feels about herself from the inside can affect the way she looks on the outside. Unfortunately, as our body and face ages we lose our youthful facial features – they are not as prominent and sharp as they once were in our youth. We also lose colour, we pale and things are not where they used to be. There is no such thing as a standard makeup look for every woman to follow. We don't want to look just like someone else.

We are unique individuals with different wants, needs and lifestyle and each one of us has their own personal taste, not forgetting our individual bone structure and facial shape.

of the filtrum centrally with its lateral elevation is known as the Cupid’s Bow, and is vital to maintain a lip reconstruction.

MCA NEEDLING – BEFORE

㤵 㜵

MCA NEEDLING – IMMEDIATELY AFTER

Another concern is too heavy a line right into the corners can give a “clown” affect. As a general rule, with ageing the position of the lower lip is subject to a certain amount of immobility and loss of fat. With this degenerative change, the lower lip vermilion angular border becomes poorly defined, with the central lower lip zone maintaining good definition. There is less of this type of change in the upper lip zones. It is important to consider any irregular shape before attempting a Cosmetic Ta t t o o p r o c e d u r e . I w o u l d recommend the shape be corrected first in agreement with the client and at her request prior to a Cosmetic Tattoo treatment, then subtle improvements can be suggested with dermal fillers if the client then chooses to have plumper lips.

With Cosmetic Tattoo lip treatments we can give women back youth with a lip line, lip shape and colour that will MCA NEEDLING – HEALED stay, and by just adding lip gloss they can bring the lip colour to life. Friends will be in awe at how you can drink and eat and still have the perfect lip shape and colour. The goal for a lip treatment is to outline the natural I could say there is no such thing as doing a partial lip line, but then it shape, giving colour and fullness to the lips. can be done with camouflage work, treating a scar or injured lip where

THE ANATOMY OF THE LIPS ㈵

㜵

㈵

It is always best to begin in the middle of the Cupid’s Bow working your way to the outer corners, then start at the centre of the bottom lip and work out towards the corners.

Since the general expression of the face is predominately determined by the corners of the mouth, one needs to be careful to approach this area with caution. The last 1/3 of the lower lip, the skin is normally very loose and stretchy and lines usually have to be lifted slightly to prevent droopiness.

LIP ENHANCEMENT

㄰

㤵

LIP ENHANCING TECHNIQUES

Client preference dramatically varies.

As Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners we evaluate and advise what would be best suited for each individual client.

Being fully informed and having the right expectations is a very important part of this service.

With Cosmetic Tattoo Full Lip Colour you can kiss without leaving a trace!

No more worry about lipstick on your teeth or leaving lipstick stains on glassware and clothing or when kissing your friends and family. With Cosmetic Tattoo Lip treatments you are given the confidence to kiss someone without leaving a trace and still having a beautiful shape and colour 24/7. The long-term results of correctly tattooed lips will give you four to eight years of longevity and lip colour. As we age our lip line starts to fade and we lose the definition of our lips. The loss of our lip line is ageing and makes it difficult to apply lipstick as there is no line or shape to follow.

Many women find it a nuisance having to reapply lipstick throughout the day and don't even bother, which is not good for their self-esteem and image.

Since the mouth has a smooth transition into the surrounding skin it is important to create a definite border, even if you require a natural colour. In the natural state the lip colour blends subtly and eventually disappears into the surrounding skin.

It is very rare that you can get this look with a Cosmetic Tattoo treatment, and if you do any colour tattooed into the skin won't last very long.

㄰

There are three planes above the lip transition into the lip matrix. The filtrum is the groove in the central zone of the upper lip. The lateral portion of the filtrum forms the peaks or elevations. This relationship

there has been loss of colour. As you add colour to a flawed area the eye will pick up another flaw or lighter areas, meaning the entire lip line must be completed. You may have more implants in one area than another and there will be a noticeable colour difference, but for a finished look, the entire lip line must be tattooed.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 69

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

A

DV

E I S O RY N

APAN It's not what we say about ourselves – it's what others say about us that matters!

“I was going through a major business crisis and it was recommended to me to phone APAN to join and access their mentoring and consulting services. Within half an hour of speaking with Tina Viney I was given immediate expert advice and gained clarity on how to address the issue at hand. Tina presented me with some incredible advice and options that allowed me to solve my issue straight away. To think we can access on industry leader of her calibre for a small yearly fee is amazing. For her wealth of knowledge and expertise I expected to be paying my yearly fee as an hourly rate. I am sold on the value of my membership with APAN.” Jenny Good, ACT “I had spent thousands of dollars getting legal advice to address my staffing issues not to mention the stress. Then someone told me about APAN and I spoke to an expert there and immediately realised that I could have access to top information and expert advice so quickly and easily and at a very reasonable rate of just joining as a member.

Now when I have a query or a question, I just flick an email to APAN and within the hour I receive expert industry advice or legal advice from their solicitors it's amazing. As a professional I know my information needs to be accurate and credible. Through APAN I have access to not only the best but I also get my needs met fast!

Joining was the best decision I ever made. Linda Bentley, NSW

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

“My association with APAN is one that I greatly value. It is exciting to be part of a great organization and a large professional network that can offer me expert support and credible advice.

APAN has brought a new level of service that we have not experienced before and they have shown great integrity within the industry. Their commitment and passion for the good of the industry is inspirational. Whenever I have reached out to them they have always been very positive and resourceful. I have also found them very generous in giving above my expectations and helping me achieve my goals. Nella Faraone, Western Australia With a strong motto of members first APAN delivers what it promises. They are committed to your progress.

Join the APAN Community of Practices. Invest in membership and reap the rewards.

APJ 70

㈵

ORK

S

TW

㈵

CTI PRA TION

S ER

STHETI AE C

㄰

THERE ARE THREE OPTIONS WHICH WE CAN OFFER CLIENTS: ! LIP LINE ! LIP LINE AND BLEND ! FULL LIP COLOUR. As Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners it is our job to always advise the client what would best suit their face.

LIP LINE – is for people who have no definite lip shape, pale lips, sundamaged lips, uneven lips or lips that have lost their shape as a result of cold sores or injury, or people who like a definite lip shape to emphasise or enlarge the mouth. This is ideal for clients with 'crease lines' or ladies who have had lip augmentation. Colour is implanted in a fine or wide line on the outer edge of the lips, giving a soft or bold shape to the mouth, making lipstick application easy. Lips are a sensuous feature to every woman's face and perfecting them can boost confidence and create a younger look.

LIP LINE & BLEND – is outlining the lip shape then blending the colour from the lip line on to part of the lips, making the outline less obvious. This is in the same colour as the lip line, looking more natural. This technique is best to use when filling in white areas where the new lip line has been extended away from the natural lip line or to balance and lift a crooked lip shape. This treatment can make the lips look fuller and is ideal for a younger client with fuller lips. A light to medium colour must be used for best results.

FULL LIP COLOUR – is ideal for everyone, especially those who have very pale lips or uneven lip colour. It is ideal for the mature client as many of these clients have lost fullness in their lips and have wrinkles, causing the lipstick to run. The lip line is created first and then the same or a different colour is implanted all over the lips. The lips are left tinted with an overall colour, giving the most beautiful lips to die for.

MULTITREPANNIC COLLAGEN ACTUATION (MCA) NEEDLING – is the ideal Cosmetic Tattoo treatment for the mature clients with lip line wrinkles. This is a procedure I learnt over 24 years ago using the tattoo machine, very successfully (without using pigment colour), working deep into the individual wrinkles, plumping them up and creating a much smoother skin. It has been a great treatment in preventing those lipstick bleeds and having very satisfied clients, with hardly any downtime. It is recommended a minimum of three treatments, 6 weeks apart, and results can last for years.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Val Glover-Hovan is a multi-award winner and renowned internationally for her techniques and teaching methods in Cosmetic Tattooing. Val is the principal of Cosmetic Tattoo Australia and can be contacted for training, advice or supplies on 1300 88 6655 or sales@hovansgroup.com.au and www.hovansgroup.com.au

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

essentialoils ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Essential Oils in Skincare for the Clinician Ric Williams (B.Sc.; Dip.Env.St.)

Recent years has seen an expansion (no, an explosion) of the aromatherapy industry. From the original herbalists (sometimes called alchemists) of 20 years ago to every company toying with the idea of aromatherapy the industry has come under the spotlight with its claims, the levels of essential oils used and the technical backup.

So what levels of essential oils should be used – what effects can be expected by the user?

This article will discuss the basic concepts of aromatherapy in beauty treatment and how formulations are created to provide these benefits.

A BRIEF HISTORY Essential oils have been used by man for thousands of years in one form or a n o t h e r. T h e i r effectiveness has b e e n w e l l documented by healers and s h a m a n s throughout history in all cultures. Herbs, which contain essential oils, are added to our cooking and impart valuable medicinal properties. Making our Christmas cake or pudding just wouldn't be the same without the peel of lemon and orange, which contain essential oils that help to preserve, flavour and add aroma.

The Egyptians had a highly advanced civilisation that recognised the importance of these extracts for health and beauty. They used them in everyday life and placed great value on them. They also used them to keep their skin supple in the hot, dry environment by adding base oils such as sweet almond and olive oil. In the reign of Rameses, the monument builders even went on strike because, as they wrote, “we have no ointment”.

㄰ 㤵

Hippocrates, the father of medicine, said that “the way to health is to have an aromatic bath and scented massage every day”. Why is it that our doctors of today have very little or no knowledge of Hippocrates' thoughts on the use of essential oils?

㜵

Famous for his prophecies is Michel de Nostredame (Nostradamus). But did you know that he spent most of his young years from the year 1521 to the year 1529 constantly on the move

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 72

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

across various lands and countries to hear and find out the source and origin of plants? His book The Cosmetics Manual was written in 1555 in which he says of observing various women “during my stays in many countries, even those where the women because of the swiftly passing years contrived secretly and by means of a subtle skill to hide and conceal the principal part of the body, namely the head, in order to show clear evidence that substances applied to the face have succeeded in deceiving the eyes of onlookers”.

The word “aromatherapy” comes from the title of a book, Aromatherapie, written by a French chemist and perfumer, Rene Maurice Gattefosse, and published in 1937. His story is often relayed, and began in July 1910 with an accident at work: “In my personal experience, after a laboratory explosion covered me with burning substances which I extinguished by rolling on a grassy lawn, both my hands were covered with a rapidly developing gas gangrene. Just one rinse with lavender essence stopped ‘the gasification of the tissue’.”

reproducing at a faster rate, and by protecting the body against free radicals (believed by many scientists to be the greatest cause of ageing). Skin that has been treated with essential oils becomes stronger, healthier and more even in appearance.

The improved circulation, which aids oxygenation, increases the rate at which nutrients are fed into the dermis. The production of the skin's sebum is influenced by hormones. Certain essential oils balance the rate which sebum is produced by the sebaceous glands, thereby encouraging healthy skin. As certain essential oils may influence the hormonal level it makes sense to include these as a treatment when dealing with skin problems that are caused by hormonal imbalances.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Others are anti-inflammatory and calm sensitive and damaged skin.

Some such as fennel contain phyto-hormones, which create

Gattefosse was so impressed by the fact that lavender essential oil could effectively deal with this very serious condition, he started to investigate the chemical and healing properties of essential oils. He also drew on the experience of doctors using essential Thermal Imaging showing neck and shoulder area before and then 3 minutes after application oils at the time, including of essential oil product. those who had great equilibrium within our endocrine system and can be used in the success in healing soldiers' wounds during the First World War. He management of menopausal symptoms such as hot flushes. found they also had a significant role in the field of dermatology, and after carrying out research in his own laboratory in the therapeutic All essential oils are anti-bacterial in nature, some more than others. action of essential oils on the skin, he published Beauty Products in Oregano, for example, is 26 times more powerful as an antiseptic than 1936, and Physiological Aethetics in 1938. phenol, which is the active ingredient in many commercial cleaning products. It has been shown that their antiseptic properties cause Another pioneer of using essential oils for beauty was Marguerite damage to a biological membrane due to their lipophilic properties Maury, a French women who specialised in her salons with using (their solubility in the phospholipid bi-layer of cell membranes). essential oils for rejuvenation and revitalisation, combining them with According to Knobloch, the oxygen intake was completely inhibited beauty therapy techniques. by functional groups such as phenols (see Oregano above). Yet in correct dosages and applications they are completely safe when used HOW ESSENTIAL OILS WORK ON THE BODY on the human body. They are probiotic or 'for life’, as opposed to The ways in which essential oil molecules enter the body and have an antibiotics which are 'against' life. effect are: by inhalation, by trans-dermal absorption and by ingestion.

Essential oils increase the blood supply to the tissues, which helps the Some such as lemongrass contain anti-viral properties. Dr. Penoel proliferation of cells and regeneration, increasing oxygenation and suggested a combination of essential oils applied topically. The lymphatic flow. By increasing the micro-circulation in the skin and by essential oils alter the pH and the electrical resistance of the terrain in a strengthening the capillaries essential oils, such as cypress, lemon, way which is unfavourable to the viral organism. rose and geranium, are useful for the treatment of spider veins and varicose veins.

A combination of essential oils, well known to aromatherapists, is a combination of Tea Tree Oil, Pine Oil and Eucalyptus Oil with Essential oils are very complex and contain many trace compounds – Lavender and Lemon Oils, and has just been “discovered” by very small components, some of which may not even have been pharmaceutical chemists as a marvellous antiseptic, even effective analysed scientifically. It is the combination of all its ingredients that against Golden Staph – a common infection in hospitals. make an essential oil what it is. Extracting one component generally won't work effectively without the other trace elements to provide HOW ESSENTIAL OILS AFFECT MOOD balance. Also, the better the quality of the essential oil, the more Using essential oils topically allows their aroma to also be inhaled to a effective it will be in treatment. certain degree during a treatment as they are volatile – that is, they evaporate and move through the air. The nasal passages are an area of Essential oils work well in cosmetics and beauty treatments as antithe body where the blood vessels are closest to the skin, allowing rapid ageing agents because their properties work to stimulate skin cells into

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 73

㄰

absorption of the essential oil to its effective site, including the brain.

㤵

The Salon, Spa or Clinic can affect the mood of clients by the use of essential oil atomisers (oil burners, incense sticks, electronic atomisers, etc.) to fill the air with a scent that can excite, calm, attract or any other mood. Clients often find that their overall wellbeing benefits as well as their looks.

㜵

㈵

Today, aromatherapy is used in beauty and aesthetic treatments for relaxation, stress-relief, rejuvenation and revitalisation and treating skin conditions. Essential oils are found as ingredients in many beauty products, including face creams and lotions, face scrubs, masks and toners, body lotions of all kinds, slimming treatments, sun tanning and protection products, and pedicure and manicure products.

THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OILS When identifying which naturally occurring chemicals essential oils are made up from it is important to note that there are over 30,000 known aromatic molecules with just as many that are as yet unidentified. An essential oil can be made of between 100 and 300 components. Each has its own aroma and potential therapeutic action.

The main classifications are shown in the chart on the following page.

HOW TO USE ESSENTIAL OILS, EXTRACTS AND NATURAL PRODUCTS Inhalation: Oil Burners, Atomised Sprays, Candles and Incense Sticks are the most common methods.

Topical: Massage Creams or Oils are an excellent method as they tend

to have considerable time on the skin and not be washed off, two factors which will increase the effectiveness of any active component through the skin.

Firstly the Cream or Oil is formed and the essential oils or extracts carefully blended in once the process has cooled to below 35oC. Higher temperatures than this may cause the degradation of sensitive components necessary for the complete action. The general usage levels are 7 to 25 drops in 25ml of oil or cream.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

It is possible to create your own aromatherapy creams, oils or other products in your clinic, salon or spa as you can buy small quantities of ready-made creams or oils, as well as the essential oils or extracts, from reputable companies and you can blend these yourself.

Other means have also been employed such as via haircare or even the moisturisers, day creams, night creams, etc. used in dailyskin care.

THE IMPORTANCE OF THE BASE OR CARRIER OIL There is a simple distinction between carrier oils and base oils. Carrier oils are chosen to carry the therapeutic essential oil molecules to where they are needed. They are not chosen for their beneficial properties. Base oils are chosen because they contain moisturising and emollient properties that have the ability to supply the skin with essential fatty acids and vitamins that have specific healing properties.

This is especially important when the essential oils used are chosen for their anti-ageing properties such as in skincare products.

Typical Carrier Oils are: Apricot Oil, Canola Oil, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, Corn Oil, Cottonseed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Olive Oil, Palm Oil, Peach Oil, Safflower

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

APJ 74

Aromatic Chemical Groups and Their Actions

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Oil, Sesame Oil, Soya Bean Oil, Sunflower Oil, plus the “nonvegetable” oils MCT and Paraffin or Mineral Oil. For those that may have heard my lecture last June on the Gold Coast I gave the description of treatments to Olive Oil vs Paraffin or Mineral Oil and asked which was more “natural”.

Typical Base Oils are: Almond Sweet olein, linoleic acid, glucosides, minerals, vitamin D and is rich in proteins the fruit contains between 6 and 25% oil.

It has a high content of Vitamins (A, B, C, D, E, F and H), lecithin, phytosterol, chlorophyll and amino acids (particularly Histidine).

Blackcurrant highest level of Vitamin C – more than Citrus Evening Primrose 10% Gamma-Linoleic Acid for heart and general well-being.

Grape Seed high levels of anti-oxidants for free radical scavenging.

Macadamia contains essential fatty acids Rose Hip a rich source of Vitamin F (essential fatty acids) Wheatgerm high levels of Vitamin E

Avocado

㄰ 㤵 㜵

There are many different oils available, but particularly good blends combine oils of Sweet Almond, Wheatgerm and Macadamia. Or Avocado, Blackcurrant, Grapeseed and Evening Primrose.

㈵

I have mentioned many times the vitamins contained in natural extracts and oils as benefits to skin.

BLENDS First, a word of caution – there are some imitation aromatherapy products on the market which may contain one or two oils. Even the “scientific community” demands that we try to limit the product to one oil in clinical trials as most still have the belief that one active should do the job. While these may have some limited effect, for the complete action we recommend careful selection of a blend of many oils – the results are outstanding.

Odours are categorised into: Top Notes – Light, volatile, short action span eg. Tea Tree, Eucalyptus, Mandarin, Lemon, Peppermint, Basil, Ylang Ylang

Middle Notes – The “heart” of the blend, the odour that is medium volatility hence will last for a few hours and hence has a longer span action eg. Chamomile, Neroli, Geranium, Lavender, Marjoram, Rosewood, Rosemary

Base Notes – The long-lasting odours or fixatives that increase the effectiveness of the top and middle notes eg. Patchouli, Rose, Jasmine, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Frankincense, Myrrh. ㄰

A well-balanced blend is said to contain elements from each of these different categories.

㤵 㜵

SUGGESTED ESSENTIAL OIL BLENDS The general usage levels are 1-3% in the oil or cream, although higher levels can be used depending on the seriousness of the complaint.

Aches and Pains: Ginger, Rosemary and Lavender in a massage base.

Acne: Rosemary, Geranium and Juniper (stimulate the lymphatic

㈵

APJ 75

㄰

Sensitive Skin Blend: German Chamomile (10%), Lavender (40%), Neroli (10%) and Sandalwood (40%).

㤵 㜵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Stress Reduction: Neroli and Lavender soothe and calm, Rose, Ylang Ylang and Rosemary help correct the mind-body imbalance, while Lavender, Sandalwood and German Chamomile help the skin directly.

㈵

㈵

Wound Healing: (Youthful complexion, stretch marks and scarring) Carrot Seed, Lavender, Everlasting, Myrrh, Frankincense, Neroli, Patchouli and Yarrow.

Uplifting Blend:

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

system), Carrot, Neroli, Sandalwood and Lavender (to minimise scarring), Hypericum and Calendula (to enhance wound healing and as an anti-inflammatory), usually in a predominantly Jojoba Oil base with Wheatgerm Oil. Alopecia: Provided the scalp is in good condition stimulation of hair follicles can be achieved by Cedarwood and Rosemary.

Anorexia: As the fear, anxiety and weight loss can be rapid in cases of anorexia it can be delayed by a blend of Lime, Geranium, Lemongrass and Cardamon (inhaled). Cease if nausea occurs.

Antiseptic: Tea Tree (40%), Eucalyptus (40%), Lavender (15%) and Lemon (5%) Anxiety and Fear: Neroli (60%), Melissa (20%) and Bergamot (20%) Circulation: Cinnamon Bark, Clove Bud, Ginger, Black Pepper and Rosemary for their rubifectant properties or Cypress, German Chamomile, Lemon, Rose, Rose Otto and Geranium for microcirculation.

Detoxification: Grapefruit, Sweet Orange, Peppermint, Rosemary or Carrot Seed, known as lymphatic stimulants.

Dry Skin: German or Roman Chamomile (50%), Rose Absolute or Rose Otto (15%), Neroli (10%) and Lavender (25%).

Geranium (20%), Lavender (20%) and Sandalwood (60%) has a balancing effect on Sebum production. These can be blended in Sweet Almond Oil, Avocado Oil infused with Calendula.

Oily Skin: Lemon, Geranium and Lavender.

Headaches: 1. Lavender and Rosemary in a cool compress or massage. 2. Roman Chamomile and Mandarin in a neck massage oil.

Inflammation: German Chamomile plus Calendula, Lavender, Neroli, Yarrow and Everlasting.

Nappy Rash: Zinc Oxide and Castor Oil Cream.

Nervous Tension Blend: Lavender (35%), Geranium (15%), Neroli (20%) and Ylang Ylang (30%).

Psoriasis: Tea Tree (40%), Eucalyptus (40%), Lavender (15%) and Lemon (5%) for its antiseptic properties with Bergamot and Sandalwood (for anxiety) in an Evening Primrose and Wheatgerm Oil base. Anti-inflammatory oils such as German Chamomile, Yarrow or Everlasting can be added, while carrot seed oil is added for collagen synthesis.

Regulating Sebum Production: Geranium, Palmarosa, Rosewood and Sandalwood.

Bergamot (30%), Rose Otto (15%), Neroli (15%) and Rosewood (40%).

“Study Blend”: for increasing your attention span Basil (10%), Lemon (50%), Peppermint (10%) and Rosemary (30%).

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Cheryl Gilbert, Balanced Essentials Pty Ltd

REFERENCES The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy – Second Edition

by Salvatore Battaglia (The International Centre of Holistic Aromatherapy) The Encyclopedia of Essential Oils

by Julia Lawless (Element Press) Aromatherapy for the Beauty Therapist

by Valerie Ann Worwood (Thomson Learning 2001) Reversing Ageing The Natural Way

by Dr Paul Galbraith (Lothian Publishing Company) The Fragrant Pharmacy

by Valerie Ann Worwood (Bantam Books) Liquid Sunshine – Vegetable Oils for Aromatherapy

by Jan Kusmirek (Floramicus, Italy) Complete Aromatherapy Handbook – Essential Oils for Radiant Health

by Susanne Fischer-Rizzi (Sterling Publishing Co).

Ric Williams holds a Bachelor of Science in Pure and Applied Chemistry from the University of NSW and a Diploma of Environmental Studies from Macquarie University. He has more than 40 years’ experience in the industry after working for various companies, starting with Sterling Pharmaceuticals in 1969 and including Colgate-Palmolive, S.C. Johnson and Son, LeverRexona, Medical Research P/L, Virbac/Vetsearch International, and the Australian pharmaceutical company F.H.Faulding and Co. Ltd. just to name a few, as well as operating his own consultancy business for many years. Ric was a Council Member of the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists for a total of 14 years and is currently on their Technical Committee for which he has served since 1985. Currently a committee member (formulation expert) on the Cosmetic Advisory Committee to the director of NICNAS (a division of the Federal Department of Health) and a technical advisor and contributor to Beauty through Science and Vogue magazines. He has presented many lectures and workshops at national medical and aesthetic conferences. Ric Williams brings a world of therapeutic, veterinary and cosmeceutical chemistry knowledge to his current role as Research and Development Manager at NxGen Pharmaceuticals in Sydney.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 76

productinnovations ㄰

SWiCH™ Dermal Rejuvenation Treatment

By Circadia by Dr. Pugliese

㤵 㜵

SWiCH™ dermal rejuvenation treatment is an innovative alternative to a chemical peel. The system is based on a physiological principle of inducing the natural repair system without the wound. Unlike most acid-based treatments, the SWiCH™ is a leave-on system. The active ingredients remain to provide continuous repair and restoration. Treatments can be performed every 28 to 30 days. The SWiCH kit contains everything needed to perform 10 treatments, including takehome products and instructions. Phone Circadia

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

on 1800 247 223 or phone: 0409 238 119.

The smartest nail-enhancement option DASHING DIVA French Wrap Plus Natural is very in when it comes to nail enhancements. The ultimate in manicure sophistication for those who love the look and elegance of French nails without the weight, bulk or lengthy process of achieving a set of nails. Dashing Diva French Wrap Plus features light tips, a curved smile line, very thin plastic, wide or narrow band to suit long or short nail beds. French wraps are fixed in place with thin viscosity, brush-on adhesive. They offer the choice of a white or coloured free edge without the use of gels, acrylics or nail polish. Complete wearproof, no smudges and no touch-ups needed. Every salon should have them. To introduce them to your salon or clinic phone Salon Group

1800 655 814 or email salons@salonsgroup.com

Get your Salon Spa Staff Policies, Procedures and Systems Manual The Salon Spa Staff Policies Procedures and Systems Manual is a fully editable template to customise your own staff manual. Recognised as the “beauty industry bible” a Blueprint of best industry practices and the instant solution to many staffing issues. Improves staff productivity, reduces costs associated with inefficient processes and will quickly lift Profits - includes 48 HR templates. ㄰

㄰

Created by industry expert Caroline Nelson the Salon Spa Staff Policies Procedures and Systems Manual represents her 40 plus years of industry specific “hands-on” experience. To write your own manual from scratch would take hundreds if not thousands of hours to research, formulate and complete. Fortunately you can simply immediately download and customise to suit your own facility.

㤵 㜵

For information call 07 5528 9440 or purchase online at www.SalonSpaBusiness.com

㈵

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 78

Achieve amazing skin renewal with Joyce Blok's Natural Anti-ageing formulations

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The most powerful anti-ageing ingredients including leading peptides such as Matrixyl 3000 and Argireline have now been included in the Joyce Blok Natural Skincare Antiageing range to help achieve significant results and long-term benefits to mature and ageing skin. Other key actives include Betaglucan, which further aids in the formation of collagen and reactivates the skin’s immune system, as well as White Tea extract for its strong antioxidant properties and to suppress collagen deterioration.

Additionally, phospholipids such as Jojoba oil, Squalene, Tocopherol and Sodium Hyaluronate have been added to enhance hydration levels and soften the complexion. The Joyce Blok Natural Anti-ageing range offers a professional range for salon treatment use and is also supported with a retail range for your clients’ homecare.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Contact Joyce Blok Natural Skin Care 1300 665 003.

Anti-oxidant Serums with L-ascorbic acid Joyce Blok's also offers a series of specialised Vitamin C serums consisting of various strengths of L-ascorbic acid that are known to neutralise free radicals, brighten the skin and support collagen production, thus defending against environmental ageing. The anti-oxidant serums are available in different strengths to suit every skin type and condition all year round. Serum c10 contains 10% vitamin C and is best for sensitive skin. Serum c20 containing 20% vitamin C is the optimum concentration for best results for mature, or sun-damaged skin that helps neutralise free-radicals and defends the skin against environmental ageing. Serum cef contains 15% vitamin C 1% vitamin E and 0.5% ferulic acid. This combination of anti-oxidants provides eight times the skin's own photo-protection, offering superior results for a brighter more toned complexion.

Contact Joyce Blok Natural Skin Care 1300 665 003.

Gentle Facial Exfoliant By Joyce Blok

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Achieving a smooth, super-refined skin is so easy with Joyce Blok's Gentle Facial Exfoliant - that is why it is one of their top sellers. It can be used wet or dry.

Containing microscopic silica granules. it will swiftly and effectively whisk off dead cells allowing for better treatment results, while the gentle properties of pure Damask Rose soothe the skin leaving it ready for the next phase of the treatment. An exceptionally effective, yet delicate, exfoliating cream. Contact

Joyce Blok Natural Skin Care 1300 665 003.

Alpha-Beta for correcting dull skin

The specific blend of alpha and beta hydroxy acids in the Joyce Blok AlphaBeta range have been specifically formulated to renew, hydrate and restore radiant skin. The range contains citric, malic, lactic and salicylic acids to effectively yet gently exfoliate the skin, while ingredients such as green tea and bilberry offer the skin anti-oxidant support and enhanced hydration. Alpha-Beta comes in a range of products that are formulated for salon and retail use. As the active ingredients are incorporated through the range they provide the skin with synergistically - enhanced results that include greater clarity and improved hydration. Contact Joyce Blok Natural

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Skin Care 1300 665 003

APJ 79

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

because you are special

GUILT-FREE CHOCOLATE Pure cocoa antioxidant Pure Cocoa Antioxidant is a delicious chocolate formula with a pure, sweet, chocolate taste without calories, sugar or fat developed by Pure Inventions. Enjoy a naturally sweetened, actually-good-for-you cocoa extract that you can add to water, milk, sparkling water and yogurt or just about anything you wish. A serving is just 1 or 2 full droppers in a glass of milk (skimmed, rice or soy). For Pure Cocoa Antioxidant

MOTHER'S DAY GIFT CARDS If you would like to introduce a new and enticing way to gain some sales then APAN has the answer for you. Our special themed gift cards are designed to draw every client's attention to purchase treatments and products from your salon. Beautifully presented in full colour and highgloss finish on one side and space for gift card details on the back, they just need you to include your salon's stamp and they are totally personalised to your business. You can purchase as little as 50 or as many as you wish.

Check out our website www.apanetwork.com and view our comprehensive designs for you to choose from. Choose from a selection of themes to meet your salon's every need. SPECIAL PRICE $35 for 50 and $4 postage. Buy 100 for $70 and receive them postage FREE. Phone

07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com to place your order.

or other delicious and nutritional dietary supplements from Pure Inventions drinks concentrates phone Absolute Spa 1300 262 285.

Raise the Standards of your Salon ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Developed in conjunction with leading educators, medical and government experts APAN's Code of Ethics is recognised by several insurance companies as being one of the best risk management documents and representative of industry best practices. We have also developed a template for salons to include it as part of their STAFF INDUCTION PROGRAM and as a valuable KEY PERFORMANCE INDICATORS (KPI) document.

This document is included as part of Corporate Platinum Membership with APAN. However, if you would like to purchase it, it is available for $85. Phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email

us at info@apanetwork.com to purchase it.

APJ 80

DERMA FILL FACIAL MACHINE Discover what's new in facial wrinkle fillers Dr Atia's Skin O2 Derma Fill facial is the latest noneedle and non-toxin facial to instantly help reduce fine lines, open pores and uneven skin tone.

Loved by Hollywood celebrities and actors and dubbed the must-have facial to have before any close-up action! This quick 20-mins lunchtime filler facial instantly lifts, hydrates and plumps the skin, while brightening the completion for a natural glow! After a treatment makeup will go on flawlessly. Treatment range from $100-$200. To

introduce the Skin O2 Derma Fill facial in your salon or clinic phone SKIN 02 07 5593 4488 or email john@skino2.com.au Web:www.skino2.com.au

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

ORGANIC OCEAN Anti-Ageing Skincare

㄰

㤵

Just launched on to the Australian market, Organic Ocean Anti-Ageing Skin Care is a small, ECOCERT® Certified Organic range offering the benefits of pure organic ingredients successfully combined with leading scientific innovations and cosmeceutical ingredients, giving you the best of both worlds and the most advanced anti-ageing benefits. The range utilises the healing powers of pure aloe vera as its base ingredient with an impressive composition of amino acids, minerals, vitamins and enzymes as well unique marine ingredients and powerful natural botanicals to enhance the skin's performance and renew its tone and vitality.

㤵

㜵

㈵

㜵

㈵

ORGANIC OCEAN Anti-Ageing Night Cream This amazing product contains a special marine ingredient, Coheliss Bio, for firming and long-lasting anti-wrinkle effect. Rich in arabinoxylans purified from the rye seeds which is processed through organic farming methods. It boosts the skin's ability to defend itself and offers natural lifting properties. In Vitro studies demonstrated significant increase in the skin's synthesis of fibroblasts. Tests on volunteers demonstrated that Coheliss Bio reduced wrinkle depth and significantly boosted skin tone after 56 days of twice-daily application. Organic Ocean Anti-Ageing Night Cream also contains Aloe Vera, Squalane, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Crambe Maritima Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Jojoba and Olive Fruit Oil. Priced affordable and with no minimum opening order essential. For further details phone 02 6563 2678

Optimum Skin Essentials or email jayfarrell2@dodo.com.au

Organic Ocean Anti-Ageing Eye Lifting Serum Organic Ocean Anti-Ageing Eye Lifting Serum attributes its incredible lifting properties the mineral-rich unique Atlantic Ocean algae and other sea plants grow in harsh conditions. These plants have been scientifically proven to provide potent anti-ageing properties through their special protective mechanism that has been proven to provide incredible nourishing and anti-ageing properties to human skin. For further details phone 02 6563 2678 Optimum

skin Essentials or email jayfarrell2@dodo.com.au

ORGANIC OCEAN Anti-Ageing Day Cream ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

An incredible moisturiser Organic Ocean Anti-Ageing Day Cream provides incredible skin protection and restores skin vitality due to same amazing ingredients. Active ingredients include Chrondus Crispus and Palvetia Canaliculata, proven algae with powerful antiwrinkle effects. These act as wrinkle-filling agents by stimulating protoglycans and type III

Organic Ocean Facial Cleanser Organic Ocean Facial Cleanser is suitable for all skin types and is enriched with a special seed oil Inca Inchi, which is high in protein and very high in Omega 3, 6 and 9, Vitamin A and E. It provides effective cleansing while restoring the skin's natural barrier function. Excellent also for acne and inflamed skin as it helps to sooth and calm the skin.

For further details phone 02 6563 2678 Optimum Skin Essentials or email jayfarrell2@dodo.com .au

㄰ 㤵

Collagen. They have also been proven to stimulate hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycans synthesis, thus providing a volume-enhancing effect.

In vivo tests on 26 women with an average age of 57 shows impressive results: 15% reduction in the number of wrinkles, and 16% reduction in the total wrinkles. Contact Optimum Skin Essentials phone 02 6563 2678

or email jayfarrell2@dodo.com.au for further details.

㜵

㈵

APJ 81

legalmatters ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

New National Business Registration System

By Luke Franz Pointon Partners Lawyers ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

As at 28 May 2012, the Australian Government will introduce a New National Business Names Registration System ('the New System'), which will merge the registration of all Australian Business Numbers ('ABNs') and business names into one national business name register.

This will eliminate the need for businesses to register their names on a State by State basis.

The new system will be administered and managed by the Australian Securities and Investment Commission ('ASIC') and replace the previous systems administered in offices of each State and Territory.

Aside from removing the inconvenience and compliance costs incurred by multiple registrations across the various States and Territories, the introduction of the New System will assist in identifying the entities behind the business names and help the Government in preventing the registration of conflicting names, as well as undesirable names that may be misleading or offensive.

Generally speaking, the shift to the New System will have minimal impact upon trading. However, with such large-scale integration comes the problems associated with dealing with existing conflicting business names and associated intellectual property rights.

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 82

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

TRANSFERRING EXISTING BUSINESS NAMES Trading entities will not be required to transfer their business name to ASIC when the New System is launched if their business name is currently registered in a State or Territory. Their existing business name registration will automatically be transferred over into the New System.

This also applies for entities who have registered their business name in multiple States and Territories. These identical business names will be transferred over into the New System as a single registration.

DUPLICATE BUSINESS NAMES If the same business name is registered in different States or Territories to separate trading entities, ASIC will assign each name in each State an identification tag usually noting their location (eg.

VIC, TAS, QLD). The business name appearing on store signs or on business communications will not be required to carry the State sign in the business name, however, the distinctive sign will be noted on the business name registry.

For example: If John from Melbourne runs Jane's Skin and Beauty in Victoria and a separate and non-related Jane from Brisbane operates a separate Jane's Skin and Beauty in Queensland, during the transition into the New System each business name would be registered with a State locator inserted in the register (eg. Jane's Skin and Beauty (VIC). This would permit each Jane to run their respective salons businesses in each State.

However, after the commencement of the New System, if another entity makes a new application to register Jane's Skin and Beauty, it would be rejected by ASIC, as the Jane's Skin And Beauty business name is now grandfathered into the system.

RENEWAL OF BUSINESS NAME REGISTRATION Existing business names will need to pay their renewal fees for registration when their original State business name renewal date falls due. The fee will depend on the length of registration required by the trading entity ($70 for three years or $30 for one year).

Where one business name is registered in multiple States or Territories by one trading entity, under the New System this entity will be only required to pay one registration fee. ASIC will also provide them with the opportunity to align their registration date under the New System if the business names were registered on different dates in each State and Territory.

For new businesses, registration of your business name will continue on a State by State basis up until the commencement date of the New System.

CONFLICTING BUSINESS NAMES

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The integration of each State registry into the New System increases the exposure of business names and businesses to trademark infringement.

It is important to note that a company and business names are statutory obligations that do not provide legal ownership over the use of the name. While legislation provides that identical names cannot be registered, it permits for similar names to be registered, which increases the chances of conflicting business names.

Essentially, as we are not provided a monopoly over our business or company name by purely registering it with ASIC or through a State or Territory office, the need to ascertain legal ownership over the use of

㄰

POINTON PARTNERS LAWYERS

㤵

If you have any queries in relation to the above article or any other legal issues affecting your business please feel free to contact Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners.

㜵

APAN members receive an initial free consultation in relation to any legal queries or issues they may have.

㈵

Pointon Partners is a client-focused commercial law firm based in Melbourne, but which services clients nationally. Pointon Partners is able to assist with: ! advice on obligations under the Fair Work Act & the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010; ! preparation of employment contracts; ! advice on termination of staff & defending of unfair dismissal claims; ! registration of trademarks; ! trademark disputes; ! preparation or review of commercial leases; ! negotiation & preparation of commercial contracts; ! franchising; ! wills and estate planning; and ! buying or selling a business.

Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners can be contacted on (03) 9642 8668 or by email mjb@pointonpartners.com.au or ah@pointonpartners.com.au

the name will now gain greater momentum as businesses discover conflicting names after the launch of the New System. The primary means of ascertaining such ownership and protection will be through trademark registration.

Trademark registration of a business name provides a legal right that can be enforced against other businesses that is a name that is similar to your business name in a class of goods or services that are similar to those covered by your trademark.

IP Australia has backed the move by the Australian Government to introduce the New System as it increases the awareness for businesses to legally protect their intellectual property and understand the limited protection afforded by company and business name registration.

For the majority of trading entities, the New System will have a minimal practical impact on their trading as the obligations imposed upon entities largely reflect their obligations under existing State and Territory legislation. The New System, however, increases the importance on the legal ownership of business names and encourages entities to safeguard the goodwill of their company that has been acquired through trading under a certain business name.

㄰ 㤵

Pointon Partners has experience in advising on all issues relating to intellectual property and the registration of business and company names. If you have any queries in relation to the above article or you have any other enquiries, please feel free to contact Pointon Partners Lawyers 03 9642 8668.

㜵

㈵

APJ 83

business ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

As businesses struggle to cope with rising rents many are looking at alternative options.

One happy aesthetician, businesswoman and APAN member is Kerry Anderson, who runs a successful mobile service. Heaven Sent Professional Mobile Beauty Services is based in the beautiful Southern Highlands of NSW and runs a successful business by servicing the region with great expert treatments and professional products.

㤵 㜵

㈵

Through several discussions with Kerry we were impressed with her commitment to excellence and her positive attitude to the business and so we asked her if she would share her experiences with other colleagues with regards to her mobile business as a viable option. In this article we present to you her responses to several questions we put to her. We trust that you will find this article inspiring.

BEAUTY on the Go

By Kerry Anderson APJ1. Kerry, when did you decide to go mobile and what made you take this path for your business?

Kerry. My business career began in the Public Service where I worked in Human Resources, communicating and liaising with a large number of staff. My great desire to travel, however was soon fulfilled and I finally settled in the UK in 1978, where I thoroughly enjoyed making a career change and completing a course in Beauty Therapy in London. Being a beauty therapist, not only fulfilled my creative needs, it was a very enjoyable outlet for my love of socialising with many different people.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

I was fortunate to gain valuable experience in the Beauty Industry working in Harrods and Selfridges in London. As I also developed my skills in makeup I was employed to look after the models in L'Oreal Hair Shows. Additionally, I was the supervisor for the makeup artists at the last televised Miss World, and was even asked to appear on Breakfast Television with Miss UK. Sales is an important aspect of a beauty therapist's role and I have always enjoyed attending sales training courses for different skincare houses. My mentors offered me invaluable guidance and inspiration and I was trained to sell with integrity on the basis of credible ingredient knowledge.

I founded, and enjoyed operating two different businesses in London, one in Mayfair and, the other in South Kensington. Creating and

designing the business systems and constantly improving customer service kept me fully active until my return home to Australia. My approach to my treatments was two-fold - the client should find a place to “de-stressed”, while being treated in a holistic manner. This was an innovative approach in the early '80s and was welcomed by my clients. Prior to this even simple things such as playing relaxing music and dimming the lights in the treatment room were not part of the standard salon environment.

In 1997 I was offered the position of Manager of the skincare department of a well-known health retreat. This was a very busy department. My responsibilities included staff recruitment and training as well as all client bookings. Working in the health retreat offered me the opportunity to develop and hone my managerial and leadership skills.

In 2001 I wanted to pursue and develop a concept in Mobile Beauty and Spa treatments and called the business Heaven Sent. Heaven Sent offers packages that focus on relaxation and pampering. My love for make-up has also meant that Heaven Sent looks after Makeup for bridal parties.

In 2004, I attended the Women in Business Mentoring scheme, which I found to be instrumental in putting together marketing and business plans. In enjoy attending Toastmasters and the Miles Franklin Writers Group.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 84

㄰

needed so nothing is forgotten, especially that special detail such as their address, as forgetting that little bit of information can prove painful!

Phone calls to remind and confirm appointments, needs to be done the night before very costly to turn up to find that no-one is home.

㤵 㜵

APJ4. Tell us of the three most important elements that help your business grow and succeed?

Kerry. This is difficult to answer as every element is so important

㈵

Currently, I am studying part-time for a Bachelor of Arts degree at the University of New England in Armidale, New South Wales. My love of English Literature and Writing has motivated me to further my studies in the direction of the Arts. I have a couple of stories and poems published during my time at University and I wrote in a column called Beauty Inside Out for the Southern Highland News.

I love my profession as a beauty therapist and feel very privileged to work in such a caring profession. There are always so many interesting people to meet and interact with and being given the opportunity to make, feel and look better is an added bonus.

APJ2. What are the advantages and limitation of working mobile?

Kerry. As in any business there are the often the positives and negatives. In the Beauty Industry we are blessed with many interesting avenues within which we can specialise. I often hear people say that it must be so much cheaper to run a Mobile Beauty business - on the face of it, this appears to be so.

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ6. What are your goals and what vision do you have for the future?

Kerry. I would really love to train other therapists in the business of being mobile. I would love to see Beauty Therapy and therapists gain greater recognition as a profession in the community. We do so much for our clients apart from our treatments - we offer support and encouragement in so many ways and help build their self-confidence.

APJ7. What made you join APAN and what value have you received from being a member?

Kerry. The APAN is one of the best Associations I have ever joined as a beauty therapist. They strive to evolve the Beauty Industry into one

I keep a very careful appointment book with details of my client's addresses and the treatments they wish to have a thorough checklist is

㈵

I often go the extra mile when it is necessary such as delivering a cream if they have run out.

However, the start-up costs are considerably less, and the overall costs can be kept down if you remain vigilant. The costs do show up on time and effort but as I love what I do, especially the communication part of it it is more like a social life than work. I can choose my hours to be “open” and can operate to full capacity or just gently.

For every client there is a special pack of towels and equipment. I keep my little Citroen Berlingo van packed with essentials and extras, such as tissues, blankets, some products etc. and the rest I keep at home.

Sterilising tools remains a priority and also requires some thought so it doesn't all end up on the floor of the van.

㜵

treatments. Client loyalty is maintained by offering the best service possible. Each client needs to be treated with respect and dignity and a professional friendliness.

I can see a future where Beauty and Health Science as a Degree qualification will become the norm, with options to specialise in different aspects of the profession. I would also like to see equipment and product packaging designed also for the mobile businesses.

APJ3. Give us a description of a typical day as to how you would start and go about your business?

Kerry. There is quite a lot of preparation that gets woven into my day.

㤵

APJ5. What strategies do you implement to maintain client loyalty?

Kerry. My business, Heaven Sent, never offers specials, or cut price

However, I think it really depends on how much energy you wish to put into your business. I have marketed widely as it was my intention to be able to operate full-time. Marketing costs are varied and can be expensive. In a Mobile Beauty business you are not able to opt out of any of these costs. Without a main street salon shop front to draw clients in, there is a need to continually visit many people and maintain a business profile in my area.

There are limits to the number of clients I can visit in a day as every visit requires set up and packing up time….

㄰

1) maintaining a profile in the area in which I work which means attending business groups, women's groups, being on commerce boards. Without this attention the world might forget my business 2) to keep all products and equipment in excellent hygienic order clients need to feel that due care and attention has been paid to every aspect 3) treat each client as though she were your best and most favourite person in the world.

㄰

which has well-informed members and I appreciate their effort in doing so.

APAN provides valuable information and opportunities for APAN Members to grow their knowledge and skills and this also helps to improve our bottom line. I also appreciate the good, efficient service they provide and the level of care and encouragement they offer me as a member.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Kerry Anderson from Heaven Sent Professional Mobile can be contacted on 1800 772 755 Email: kerry@heavensent.com.au Kerry welcomes any enquiries from colleagues who would like to discuss with her this career option further.

㈵

APJ 85

㄰ 㤵 㜵

AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㈵

TASMANIA – FIRST TO INTRODUCE LICENSING FOR IPL OPERATORS & DEVICES People wishing to use IPL equipment in Tasmania will soon have to be licensed as the State becomes the first jurisdiction in Australia to regulate IPL use in cosmetic procedures.

Although most operators provide safe, high-quality services, IPLs can be hazardous because of the way they produce and filter light. This light is not as targeted as that produced by lasers, and sometimes produces either side-benefits or undesired side-effects.

Typically used for hair depilation and skin rejuvenation procedures, IPLs (or intense pulse light sources) can increase or decrease skin pigmentation if used incorrectly. There have also been reported cases where people received severe burns or scarring. IPLs can present a hazard to the eyes of operators and clients alike unless protective eyewear is used.

The Tasmania Government has already consulted with and is working with the cosmetic industry to introduce regulation that will ensure the highest level of client care for IPL procedures, through ensuring equipment is safe to use, operators are trained and experienced, and there is medical assistance on hand should there be an adverse reaction.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Regulation will also bring consistency to the way lasers and IPLs are regulated in the Tasmanian cosmetic industry.

While they are used for similar cosmetic treatments and can potentially cause the same harm, currently only lasers are regulated.

VITAMIN E REDUCES PHOTOINDUCED SKIN DAMAGE Researchers at the University of Milan found the use of a new topical formulation containing significant concentrations of tocotrienols and tocopherols represents a promising strategy to reduce the photo-induced skin damage (J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. Sept. 14, 2011).

Researchers evaluated 30 patients with photosensitivity and found that the prophylactic efficacy of a new topical agent containing 10% tocopherols and 0.3% tocotrienols, compared with a retinol-based vehicle. After determining the minimal UVB erythema dose (MED), two areas of 2×2 cm were selected on the buttocks of each subject, one of which was treated with the antioxidant formulation, whereas the other did not undergo any treatment. Both areas were irradiated with a twofold MED. Another two similar areas were selected as further controls. These were on the forearm of 15 patients who were photo-irradiated similarly, 30 minutes after application of the simple vehicle to a field and of vitamin A in the same vehicle to the other. Reactions of erythema, oedema, itching and vesciculation assessment was carried out and scored as indicative of their intensity; then, mean values +DS of scores were calculated.

The pre-treatment with the vitamin E formulation proved to be highly protective against photosensitivity, and all reactions to irradiation were significantly lower in the areas treated with the topical vitamin E formulation compared to those treated with the simple vehicle or vitamin A. appropriate knowledge in IPL safety and are competent in using the equipment.

This will be considered on a case-by-case basis.

Operators must have a formal and documented relationship with a registered medical practitioner who has training and skills in the use of lasers and IPLs.

㤵

Current IPL operators in Tasmania are generally supportive of introducing regulation.

The medical practitioner must be available to advise the licensed IPL operator on treatment protocols, and assess and manage any adverse outcomes that may result from laser or IPL treatments.

㜵

As of August 2012 anyone wishing to operate an IPL in Tasmania must apply for a licence under the Tasmanian Radiation Protection Act 2005.

IPL equipment will need to have approval from the Therapeutic Goods Administration and comply with the technical standard IEC 60601-2-57- Ed 1.0 B:2011. This may change as other technical standards for IPLs become available.

㈵

㄰

Applicants will need to demonstrate that they have

APJ 86

For more information visit www.dhhs.tas.gov.au/peh/radiation_protection

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

FABRIC SOFTENER FOR DRY SKIN

International Aesthetic Show Calendar

㤵

Produced by Terry Everitt, Aesthetic Educators

So what do fabric softeners and dry skin have in common? Well, according to a new study conducted

by Kao Corp. in Japan, it's possible that fabric softeners contribute to the state of moisturisation of the skin and may work in collaboration with the application of moisturisers (Int J Cosm Sci. 2011;33(6):566-71). Scientific evaluation of fabric softener use on the friction of fabrics and on dry skin in real life is very limited, so researchers decided to evaluate the effects and safety of fabric softenertreated T-shirts on subjects with dry skin in real-life conditions in the cold and arid environment. A total of 20 male volunteers with dry skin used T-shirts without softener for one week before day 0 and then wore softener-treated T-shirts for 14 days. Effects were evaluated by clinical grading, subjective symptoms, stratum corneum water content (SCWC) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

㜵

Apr15-16 Esthetique SPA International The Venetian/Sands Expo – Hall A Las Vegas, Nevada USA T: + 450 434-4738 F: +450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

㈵

Apr18-21 Spa, Wellness & Beauty Don Carlos Leisure Resort & Spa, Marbella, Spain T: +44 (0) 208 547 9830 F: +44 (0) 208 547 9858

Apr22-24 Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Jacob Javits Center New York, NY, USA T: +1 203-383-0516 F: +1 212-895-8209 Email: dwaltersdorf@questex.com

A significant decrease in the coefficient of friction of fabrics was detected. A significant improvement in SCWC was observed on the torso, waist and shoulder, but no improvement was found on the inner forearm. There was a slight change in TEWL. The visual grading of dryness improved significantly at all sites, but no significant change was found in subjective symptoms.

The results suggest fabric softener provides benefits to individuals with dry skin because of the decreased friction of the garments against the skin.

GIA SAYS VITAMIN E LARGEST VITAMIN SEGMENT

Apr29-30 Esthetique SPA International Downtown Metro Toronto Convention Centre Toronto (ON) Canada T: + 450 434-4738 F: +450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com May5-8

info@international-beautyexpo.com

May6-7

A new report by Global Industry Analysts Inc. (GIA) said the global market for vitamins will reach US $3.2 billion by 2017, which said this growth will be driven by many industries, including the cosmetic industry.

Currently, Europe represents the largest regional market, according to GIA; although the United States constitutes the single largest market globally. Asia-Pacific is likely to emerge as the fastest-growing market, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of about 4 per cent during the analysis period.

A decade ago, production of vitamins was confined to the West, and only a few chemical-based companies dominated the market. But presently, a significant quantity is produced in China and India. Increasing competition has brought a change in the product and marketing concepts, paving way for increased customer focus, manufacture of value-added products and improved services.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Vitamin E represents the largest segment, due to the extensive use in cosmetics, as well as other applications. With wide-ranging applications in the cosmetics industry, such as a key ingredient in skincare lotions, sunscreens and anti-ageing creams, vitamin E is in wide use due to its varied functionality related to the skin. As such, its use in the cosmetics industry is potentially beneficial, and there are comparatively fewer regulatory hurdles for cosmetic manufacturers in comparison to the food manufacturers.

The cosmetics industry, though relatively small in terms of the percentage share, is emerging as a key end user of vitamins, with a CAGR of 4.6 per cent over the analysis period.

International Beauty Expo Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach AC USA T: + 1 562-802-7471 F: + 1562-693-4499 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Arlington Convention Center Dallas, Texas T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com

May6-7

Esthetique SPA International Quebec Congress Centre Québec (QC) Canada T: + 450 434-4738 F: +450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

May13-14 Beauty, UK NEC, Birmingham T: +01332 227689 Email: ruth@beautyserve.net May13-14 Hair and Beauty Frankfurt Hall 11 of Frankfurt Fair and Exhibition Centre Frankfurt, Germany T: +49 69 75 75 0 F: +49 69 75 75 57

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Email: beautyworld@messefrankfurst.com

May14-16 Beautyworld, Japan Tokyo Big Sight Tokyo, Japan T: +49 69 75 75-0 F: +49 69 75 75-64 33 Email: beautyworld@messefrankfurst.com

㈵

APJ 87

㄰

EUCALYPTUS

㤵 㜵

㈵

IMPROVES STRATUM CORNEUM FUNCTION According to researchers at Kao Corp. in Japan, eucalyptus extract may have a therapeutic effect on the stratum corneum by increasing its content of ceramide, and improving its water-holding and barrier functions (Int J Cosm Sci. 2011;34(1):17-22). Japanese researchers aimed to identify a plant extract that would improve the stratum corneum functions and to elucidate the mechanism(s) involved. Based on the information that stratum corneum functions depend on the level of ceramide in the stratum corneum, researchers identified a eucalyptus extract that was able to increase the level of ceramide in human keratinocytes in culture and in human stratum corneum, and improve the stratum corneum water-holding and barrier functions.

Addition of the eucalyptus extract to human keratinocytes in culture increased the level of ceramide in a dose-dependent manner and also increased the biosynthesis of ceramide, glucosylceramide and sphingomyelin. Topical application of the eucalyptus extract on the dry skin of human subjects induced by acetone and diethylether treatment resulted in a significant increase in ceramide level in the stratum corneum, a significant improvement in its water-holding function and an improvement in its barrier function.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The addition of macrocarpal A, one of the main components of the eucalyptus extract, to human keratinocytes in culture increased the level of ceramide and the mRNA expression of serine palmitoyltransferase, acid sphingomyelinase, neutral s p h i n g o m y e l i n a s e , glucosylceramide synthase and glucocerebrosidase in a dosedependent manner.

“Results indicate the possibility that macrocarpal A is the key component that stimulates the synthesis of ceramide in the stratum corneum," the researchers noted.

APJ 88

㄰

ANTI-AGEING AGENCY CELEBRATES 10th ANNIVERSARY

㤵 㜵

2012 marks the 10th Anniversary of Australia's leading Anti-Ageing, Beauty and Preventative Health PR agency, Brand New Solutions.

㈵

Founded in 2002 by Managing Director Gill Fish, the agency has grown from small beginnings to one of the most highly regarded agencies specialising in Anti-Ageing, Beauty and Health in Australia.

“The timing of our 10th anniversary couldn't be better,” says Ms Fish, “given that 2012 marks the official kick-off of Australia's National Preventative Health Agency”.

“The evolution of healthcare from a 'sickness' model to a 'wellness' model is absolutely essential if governments are to be able to manage the health of their citizens.

“Hospitals can barely cope with the burden of ill health, and as populations age this issue will only become more critical,” says Ms Fish.

Added to this, Ms Fish explains how advances in science and technology are revolutionising beauty.

Nearly 10 years ago, the agency proudly launched Jane Iredale – The Skincare Makeup to the Australian media, the first-ever mineral makeup.

“It took significant time to educate the media about the importance of minerals and other ingredients and how makeup could double up as skincare,” says Ms Fish. “Today, mineral makeup is de rigueur,” she said.

“Advances in skincare have taken significant steps forward during this time.

“We are looking at the first wrinkle-less generation in Gen Y, who have been able to tap into the advent of cosmeceuticals.

“Medical-type technology for treatment and retail products enables the consumer to tap into effective trans-dermal delivery systems that enable the actives to really do their job.

“Cosmeceuticals are delivering skin rejuvenation results hardly dreamt of back in the ’70s. In addition, an understanding of the ravages of the sun have changed the way consumers approach their skincare,” says Ms Fish. “This coupled with developments in injectables, laser, light therapy as well as local anaesthetics which enable the likes of plastic surgeons to perform targeted rejuvenation procedures such as Blepharoplasty (eyelid lift) in their rooms, is really presenting

consumers with the most advanced, yet accessible means of rejuvenation, without spending tens of thousands and with very little downtime.”

According to Ms Fish, we are in the midst of another industry milestone right now: the trend of Aestheticians to integrate knowledge of internal medicine into customer protocols: areas such as diet, nutrition and lifestyle that affect their aesthetic treatment outcomes. “No longer will topical aesthetic treatments hold 100% of the key to results. Aestheticians need to understand that being healthy internally reflects externally, and they need to educate their customer accordingly.”

With years of high-level PR, Marketing & Media experience, Brand New Solutions recognised the importance of Anti-Ageing and Preventative Health early on in the game, having specialised in this industry for over eight years, working with leading clients in the field.

“PR has also advanced significantly over the past 10 years,” says Ms Fish. “The advent of Social Media and the growth of online advertising have resulted in tightening-up of PR placement in traditional media. Our teams need to have outstanding contextual knowledge of the industry, not only about a product. In addition, agencies need to be flexible, think outside the square and come up with innovative, costeffective ways of raising the profile of the brand.

An understanding of trends online is absolutely essential,” says Ms Fish.

Ms Fish travels regularly to international antiageing medical conferences in order to update on advances in anti-ageing trends, bringing back that knowledge to Australia to support her clients' communications strategies.

Brand New Solutions works with Anti-Ageing, Beauty and Preventative Health education bodies, products, technologies and experts. For more information call Gill Fish 0400 200 441 or gfish@brandnewsolutions.com,au www.brandnewsolutions.com.au

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

CHILDREN APPLY MORE SUNSCREEN WITH PUMP, BUT INSUFFICIENT AMOUNTS QUEENSLAND, Australia – A crossover quasi-experimental study design comparing three sunscreen dispenser-type pumps, squeeze bottles or roll-on found regardless of age, primary schoolchildren apply sunscreen at substantially less than 1.00 mg/cm2, similar to what has been observed among adults, and they applied significantly more sunscreen when using the pump (Arch Dermatol. Jan. 16, 2012).

A total of 87 children aged 5 to 12 years from public primary schools (grades 1 to 7) were monitored in order to measure the thickness at which they applied sunscreen on schoolday mornings and compared it with the thickness (2.00 mg/cm2) at which sunscreen is tested during product development, as well as investigated how application thickness was influenced by age of the child and by dispenser type (500-mL pump, 125-mL squeeze bottle or 50-mL roll-on).

Children applied sunscreen during three consecutive school weeks (Monday through Friday) for the first application of the day using a different dispenser each week. Children applied their sunscreen at a median thickness of 0.48 mg/cm2. Children applied significantly more sunscreen when using the pump (0.75 mg/cm2) and the squeeze bottle (0.57 mg/cm2) compared with the roll-on (0.22 mg/cm2) (P<0.001 for both).

STUDY: GREEN TEA AND CHITOSAN MICROPARTICLES

㄰

Chitosan microparticles are promising carriers for enhancing the skin permeation, according to a study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2011;33(6):572579). Although catechins found in green tea are major antioxidants, their use in cosmetic products has been limited because they do not permeate the skin well. Therefore, researchers in Thailand evaluated the cutaneous absorption of catechins from an extract of green tea and from a green tea extractloaded chitosan microparticle. The catechin skin metabolism was also examined.

㤵 㜵

㈵

The results from their study suggest chitosan microparticles significantly improve the ability of catechins to permeate the skin. The cutaneous metabolism of the catechins significantly affected their permeation profiles. Epicatechin (EC) and epigallocatechin (EGC) penetrated the skin more than epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) and epicatechin gallate (ECG).

The galloyl groups in EGCG and ECG were enzymatically hydrolysed to EGC and EC, respectively. Dehydroxylation of catechins was also observed. Chitosan microparticles effectively prevented enzymatic changes of the catechins.

㄰

International Aesthetic Show Calendar

㤵

(Continued) 㜵

May16-19 World Congress on Anti-Aging and Aesthetic Medicine Marriott World Center Orlando, FL T: + 1-561-997-0112 Email: doreen.brown@a4m.com May 27

㈵

Wining Against the Odds APAN Conference & Expo Mercure, Townsville T: 07 55930360 F: 07 55930367 Email: info@apanetwork.com

May29-31 Beautyworld Middle East Dubai Int Convention Center Dubai, UAE T: + 971 4 389 4500 Email: elaine.oconnell@uae.messefrankfurt.co m

Jun9-11 Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, Nevada, USA T: +1 203-383-0516 F: +1 212-895-8209 Email: dwaltersdorf@questex.com

Jun14-16 Beauty Eurasia Tuvap Fair Convention & Congress Centre Istanbul, Turkey T: +9 212-2229060 F: +9-212-2106176 Email: info@biztradeshows.com Jun19-20 Spa & Resort/Medical Aesthetics Expo Jacob K. Javits Convention Center New York, NY T: +1-609-759-7617 F: +1-347-962-3889 Web: http://www.spaandresortexpo.com

Jul22-24 COSMOPROF North America Mandalay Bay Las Vegas T: + 1 480.281.0424 x 3445 Email: cpnainfo@probeauty.org Aug11-12 Sydney International Spa Beauty Expo Sydney Convention and Exhibition Centre Darling Harbour T: 02 9422 2535

㄰

Email: visit@internationalbeautyexpo.com.au

㤵

Aug11-13 Beyond Esthetics Tradeshow San Diego Convention Center San Diego, CA, USA T: +1.805.995.2604

㜵

Email: info@beyondsestheticstradeshow.com

㈵

APJ 89

㄰

CREATINE REDUCES WRINKLES, PREVENTS SKIN AGEING

㄰

㤵

According to a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, in Germany creatine represents a beneficial active ingredient for topical use in the prevention and treatment of human skin ageing (2011;10(4):273-81).

㤵

㜵

㈵

㜵

The dermal extracellular matrix provides stability and structure to the skin. With increasing age, however, its major component collagen is subject to degeneration, resulting in a gradual decline in skin elasticity and progression of wrinkle formation. Previous studies suggest the reduction in cellular energy contributes to the diminished synthesis of cutaneous collagen during ageing.

㈵

In a single-centre, controlled study, 43 male Caucasians applied a skincare formulation containing creatine, guarana extract and glycerol to determine its influence on facial topometric features. Penetration experiments were performed with a pig skin ex vivo model. Effects of creatine on dermal collagen gene expression and procollagen synthesis were studied in vitro using cultured fibroblast-populated collagen gels.

Cultured human dermal fibroblasts supplemented with creatine displayed a stimulation of collagen synthesis relative to untreated control cells both on the gene expression and at the protein level. In skin penetration experiments, topically applied creatine rapidly reached the dermis. In addition, topical in vivo application of a creatine-containing formulation for six weeks significantly reduced the sagging cheek intensity in the jowl area as compared to baseline. This result was confirmed by clinical live scoring, which also demonstrated a significant reduction in crow's feet wrinkles and wrinkles under the eyes.

“We were surprised to see that 34% of both male and female respondents opted for a chemical free or low chemical shampoo when choosing the best hair cleaning product for their needs,” said Canstar Blue Manager Rebecca Logan.

“The market has seen a boom in eco-friendly hair products based on increasing consumer awareness and demand for products which are kinder to human health and the environment.”

“The results also showed consumers from Western Australia were the most eco-conscious Australians where shampoo is concerned, with 42% of residents choosing no or low chemical shampoos compared with only 18% of Tasmanian residents surveyed.”

“Interestingly, the survey showed that 31% of consumers surveyed made the thrifty choice to purchase budget shampoo brands to save money. Generation Y respondents were far more likely to choose budget shampoo brands (38% of respondents) than Baby Boomer respondents (28% of respondents).”

When it came to the shampoo brand with the most satisfied customers, it was Australian challenger brand Natures Organics which was the clear leader.

Canstar Blue commissions Colmar Brunton to survey 2,500 Australian consumers across a range of categories every few months to measure and track customer satisfaction.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

AUSTRALIAN WOMEN PREFER CHEMICAL-FREE SHAMPOOS An independent consumer survey released today by Canstar Blue revealed 34% of Australian women purchase low-chemical or chemical-free shampoo.

The winning brands reported are the results from the 2171 shampoo customers within the survey group. To qualify, the customer has to have purchased shampoo in the past 12 months.

Brands must receive at least 30 responses to be included. “We launched Canstar Blue to give Australians a free online resource to help them with their key purchasing decisions by making it simple for them to learn from the experiences of other consumers. It is essentially a guide to product excellence as voted by customers,” Ms Logan said.

The independent survey was undertaken in conjunction with professional market researchers Colmar Brunton. The full Canstar Blue results are available at www.canstarblue.com.au.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 90

㄰

㄰

ASCORBIC, PHYTIC ACID REDUCE SIGNS OF SUN DAMAGE

㤵 㜵

Treatment with L-ascorbic acid and phytic acid, found in bran and seeds, was significantly more efficacious than a vehicle in many respects in treating solar lentigines (SL), benign signs of sun damage, according to French researchers (J Cosm Dermatol. 2011;10(4):266-72).

㈵

A double blind, vehicle-controlled trial in 30 healthy subjects with greater than or equal to 2 SL. Subjects were randomly assigned to apply of L-ascorbic acid 10 percent + phytic acid 2 percent to one side of the body and a vehicle to the other twice daily for three months with follow-up of two months.

The pigmentation index for product-treated SL was reduced (maximum reduction 1.3 at three months [M3]), while vehicle-treated lesions remained stable. These differences were statistically significant for M1 to M4 (P&#8804;0.003). Dermoscopy detected significant intergroup differences in pigmentation at M5 (P=0.011). Colorimetry results indicated a statistically significant improvement in brightness between study drug and vehicle at M5. Fifteen subjects experienced 23 adverse events; six (mostly halo depigmentation) were judged possibly related to the study drug.

There were six instances of mild-to-moderate intolerance in the study drug group and five in the vehicle-treated group. The researchers noted future, larger studies are needed to confirm these results and to compare the product with gold-standard treatments.

International Aesthetic Show Calendar

㤵

(Continued) 㜵

Aug24-26 6th Annual Anti-Aging & Aesthetic Medicine Conference Melbourne T: 03 98130439 F: 03 98130649 Email: enquiries@a5m.net

㈵

Aug25-27 Face & Body Northern California McEnery Convention Center San Jose, CA T: +1-630-653-2155 F: +1-630-653-2192 Email: FBNC@allured.com

Sept 9-10 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, California T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com

Sept30-Oct1 Esthetique SPA International Palais des congrès de Montréal Montreal (QC) Canada T: + 450 434-4738 F: +450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

EDUCATORS' Employment Opportunities Are you passionate about training and would you love a career as an educator? If yes, here is a great opportunity to work within a dynamic college environment.

The Australasian College Broadway in Sydney is expanding and has several positions available. The College is well established and considered as one of the leading vocational training providers in Australia, which places the highest priority on the wellbeing, development and the success of its people. It offers state-of-theart facilities located close to the CBD and public transport, a dynamic work environment and a friendly team to work with.

The College is currently recruiting Beauty Educators to deliver Diploma of Beauty Therapy (SIB50110) and the Diploma of Salon Management (SIB50210).

The Role ㄰

As a Beauty Educator you will be responsible for the delivery of training and assessment to students undertaking units of study as well as attend to the administrative functions that the role encompasses.

㤵 㜵

㈵

The Candidate To be successful in this role you must have qualifications equal to Diploma of Beauty Therapy or above, a Certificate IV in Training and Assessment (TAE) or equivalent, with at least five years experience in a commercial salon environment. The ideal candidate would possess a minimum of 24 months experience in cosmetic IP and laser treatments and have a Laser Safety Certificate.

Consideration will also be given to qualified practitioners who are willing to undertake further studies in TAE and who wish to make a contribution to the Beauty Therapists of the future. For these candidates a full mentoring program will be available to orientate them to the training environment. These positions would suit an ambitions person who wishes to establish a career in training.

All candidates must have a real passion for teaching with exceptional technical and interpersonal skills to enable them to deal with a wide range of student requirements. Candidates must also have the legal right to work in Australia.

Does this sound like you? If so, we would love to hear from you.

Please forward your resume and a brief covering letter via email to: positions@australasiancollege.com.au

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 91

newresearch ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

Reviewing new research findings on VITAMIN D, Sun and SKIN HEALTH

By Terry Everitt

㈵

APJ 92

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

There has been much media recently regarding Vitamin D deficiency and the role that sunscreen photoprotection may have in causing this deficiency, given the apparent success of sunscreen use. Photoprotection against ultraviolet light is an important part of our armamentarium against actinically derived skin cancers and a host of ageing effects on the skin. It remains true that UV exposure is still a major avoidable health hazard.

As always, Terry Everitt provides the facts from scientific research and will indicate that using broad-spectrum sunscreen to avoid sun damage of all types far outweighs the possibility of Vitamin D deficiency, as Vitamin D can easily be obtained from the diet or via supplementation.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

VITAMIN D – WHAT IT IS While we simply say Vitamin D, there are two major forms, which are secosteroids, sharing a close structural and functional resemblance to steroids. Thus Vitamin D is a lipid steroid.

Ergocalciferol (D2) D2 is made by the conversion of a sterol found in plants and yeast. Vitamin D2 is used in some dietary supplements.

Cholecalciferol (D3) Produced naturally in human skin exposed to ultraviolet B light and the chemical reaction on 7-dehydroxycholesterol.

Also found in cod liver oil and in smaller amounts in fatty fish such as herrings, mackerel, sardines, and tuna. We are seeing a number of food items being fortified with Vitamin D, which is helpful if deficiency is a concern.

Both Ergocalciferol and Cholecalciferol are fat soluble and absorbed systemically and equal in their ability to increase serum levels of 25-hydroxyvitamin D. It is here that it get a bit confusing as you may have seen a number of different names used in describing Vitamin D – it depends on what it actually being spoken of as there are different metabolites (brokendown components) being referred to.

After being ingested, both vitamin D2 and D3 are metabolised in the liver to form 25-hydroxyvitamin D, and further hydroxylated in the kidneys (and in other cells) to a different chemical structure; 1,25dihydroxyvitamin D.

㄰

It is interesting to note that in high doses D3 may be more efficient at raising 25-hydroxyvitamin D levels (although it is not recommended in higher doses due to possible hypocalcaemia).

WHAT DOES VITAMIN D DO? Vitamin D regulates the amount of calcium and phosphorus in the body, partly by controlling the levels of absorption (by enhancing the ability of the small intestine to absorb calcium from the diet). Vitamin D maintains the blood calcium at supersaturating levels such that it is deposited in the bone as calcium hydroxyapatite. When dietary calcium is inadequate for the body's needs, 1, 25dihydroxyvitamin D – the active form of vitamin D – together with parathyroid hormone, mobilise stem cells in bone marrow to become mature osteoclasts, which in turn increase the mobilisation of calcium stores from bone.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵

Serum levels of 25-hydroxyvitamin D (also referred to as 25-(OH)D) are commonly used clinically to evaluate vitamin D status via blood tests. However, to get a definitive indication of Vitamin D levels outside of normal ranges, it is thought better to test for 1,25 D (variously known as 1,25-dihydroxycholecalciferol or 1,25dihydroxyvitamin D; calcitirol, just to add to the Vitamin D naming confusion).

Vitamin D has important other functions, including having the active metabolite 1, 25 (OH)2 D acting as a hormonal regulator in cell growth. Vitamin D has been associated with a number of conditions as a result of decreased intake, with a number of scientifically peer-reviewed studies showing the effect of Vitamin D deficiency in rickets in children and osteomalacia (bone softening) in adults, along with decreased bone density.

㜵

㈵

APJ 93

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Men with low levels of Vitamin D in the blood (15 ng/mL and lower) were at increased risk for heart attack compared to those with levels at 30 ng/mL and higher, yet the same result is not recorded in females, with the reason not yet clear why this is so. Adequate Vitamin D intake is also studied for its effect on depression, Parkinson's disease, rheumatoid arthritis, type 2 diabetes, influenza A, asthma, allergies and pancreatic cancer among other concerns.

㈵

Of interest in clinical skincare is that raising low levels of vitamin D may also reduce inflammation in the body. In a study of blood from thousands of adult Americans, levels of C-reactive protein (CRP), a marker of inflammation, decreased as Vitamin D levels increased to just below 21 ng/mL. However, the opposite occurred when vitamin D levels reached and exceeded 21 ng/mL – CRP levels slowly but progressively increased, suggesting an slight inflammatory action of vitamin D at these higher levels. The results seem to reinforce the importance of maintaining plasma Vitamin D levels of 20 ng/mL and suggest some potential downside of higher levels of vitamin D. This indicates further study is required, yet also provides indication of possible treatment for sub-acute inflammation, which is a major factor in the ageing process.

RECOMMENDED INTAKE

Nutrient Reference Values (NRV) published by the Australian National Health and Medical Research Council (NHMRC) are standard into two major age groups: 5.0 µg/day for ages 1-50 years and then increasing to 10.0 µg/day post 50 years; however, the Royal Australian College of General Practitioners (RACGP) suggest 400 IU per day. (See dosage calculations) This is from total intake accounting for ingested and synthesised, so it is easily possible for some to be having more than this amount and some having far less, dependent on sunlight exposure, diet and supplementation. The recommendations have extensive information provided, which is interesting reading as for each age group it references sunlight exposure. The guidelines are accessed at http://www.nrv.gov.au/nutrients/vitamin%20d.htm In cases of established Vitamin D deficiency, supplementation with 3000-5000 IU per day for at least 1 month is required to replete the body stores. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

SUN EXPOSURE FOR VITAMIN D It has been estimated that up to 90% of the body’s Vitamin D needs can be produced in the skin via the action of the sun. While it can be made in the skin, it does not have to be, as taking supplements can easily provide all the Vitamin D requirements without the sun damage.

Ten to 15 minutes of sun exposure at least two times per week to the face, arms, hands or back without sunscreen is usually sufficient to provide adequate Vitamin D and has been often cited as the amount of time required.

㄰

There is solid evidence that Vitamin D production in the skin requires very little sunlight and that prolonged exposure to sunlight does not increase Vitamin D synthesis and that sun protection is still required.

㤵 㜵

㈵

A few things need to be understood about this to make sense of it. First this came out of America and was a mid-range time frame from a study primarily estimating exposure in Miami (rated as 6 to 15 minutes) and Boston (9 to 19 minutes) during non-winter months. This study was on a small cohort of 'dark skinned' Caucasians, with the authors suggesting that times are shorter by about 33% for people with very fair skin and double for those with dark skin. It was reported these exposure times are significantly less than the amount required to cause sunburn. It is also of note that the study authors do suggest that oral supplements of Vitamin D would probably represent the safest way to increase Vitamin D status due to the difficulty getting just the right amount of sun exposure and the detrimental side effects of ultraviolet exposure on the skin. (Terushkin, et al, 2010) One interesting fact is that DNA as a chromophore has an absorption maximum of 260 nm, thereby being affected by both UVA and UVB. Little wonder there is so much cellular damage and mutation, particularly due to p53 gene malfunction (thought primarily due to oxidative stress). This DNA absorption is important as the absorption for Vitamin D synthesis is peaked at 300 nm – thus Vitamin D production and DNA damage occurs at the same wavelength. More frightening is that this occurs before sunburn or even 'pinkness' is apparent – sub MED (Minimum Erythema Dose).

There is solid evidence that Vitamin D production in the skin requires very little sunlight and that prolonged exposure to sunlight does not increase Vitamin D synthesis (Norman 1998; Gilchrest 2007) and that sun protection is still required.

SUNSCREEN AND VITAMIN D Also, increased concern about skin cancer has caused people to avoid the sun or use sunscreen.

This has been said to create a potential risk of reduced vitamin D synthesis occurring, as the sunlight is not getting to the skin due to sun avoidance or use of sunscreen.

There are many studies released with conflicting results, which is primarily due to the difference in study design, scientific rigour, cohort size to name a few. Additionally, many studies are done in a controlled setting with professional guidance in sunscreen application, which is not the case in the real world; there are few population-based studies undertaken which would give a greater indication of what happens in the 'real world'.

Some of the more scientific studies have studied those with history of melanoma matched with equal number of controls (non-melanoma participants). These show that the skin-cancer participants did have lower levels of Vitamin D than the controls with higher sunscreen use.

Consequently, sunscreen use got the blame for the Vitamin D

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 94

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

deficiency. However, when you think about it, the skin-cancer patients would have a higher compliance of correct use of sunscreen use as advised by a number of people treating them for skin cancer, particularly melanoma, so no surprise there.

An interesting study released by Marks et al (1995) showed that over an Australian summer sufficient sunlight was received (probably through both the sunscreen itself and the lack of total skin cover at all times) to allow adequate Vitamin D production in people who used a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 17) versus the placebo group. There were no significant differences by age, sex and skin type in the change in 25-hydroxyvitamin D3 or 1, 25-dihydroxyvitamin D3 over the study period of the 113 participants. This was also the conclusion from a further study by Farreons et al, 1998, conducted in Spain. This indicated that Vitamin D synthesised in the skin is adequate with the use of broad-spectrum SPF 17, and that not using sun protection in the belief that it prevents Vitamin D production is unfounded. Broadspectrum SPF is required to prevent some skin cancers and the ageing effects of ultraviolet radiation.

be no deficiency (defined as less than 20ng/ml of 25-hydroxyvitamin D3.

The American Academy of Dermatology updated its position statement on Vitamin D (January 2010) based on the results of a review of the increasing body of scientific literature on this vitamin and its importance for optimal health recently conducted by the National Academy of Sciences Institute of Medicine (IOM). The Academy reaffirmed its position that Vitamin D should not be obtained from unprotected exposure to UV radiation from the sun or indoor tanning devices, as UV radiation is a known risk factor for the development of skin cancer. The Academy's position statement reflects the IOM's findings, including the Vitamin D blood level deemed adequate and safe for the human body (20 ng/ml). The Academy's updated position statement also asserts there is no scientifically proven, safe threshold of sun or indoor tanning device exposure that allows for maximum Vitamin D synthesis in the skin without increasing the risk of skin cancer.

SUNSCREEN AND SKIN CANCER ㄰

A mega study by Linos et al, 2010, found that wearing long-sleeved shirts and staying in the shade was a much stronger predictor, with no association between sunscreen use and lower Vitamin D status.

㤵 㜵

㈵

One very good reason that sunscreen does not prevent Vitamin D synthesis is that people simply don't use the required amount to be protected (2mg/2cm), or put it on when already in the sun, or have it removed by perspiration or clothes. They think by having sunscreen (as opposed to sunblock) on they remain protected, where in fact they are in greater danger of UVR damage while also having Vitamin D synthesis occurring with the sunlight hitting the skin. While an insufficiency (down to 20 ng/ml) may occur in some, there appears to

On a slightly different subject the question of sunscreen effectiveness in preventing skin cancers have been doing the media rounds. This I believe stems from an article published in the Lancet medical journal, early 2010, where non-melanoma skin cancers (NMSC) in the United States are on the rise, while sunscreen use is also on the increase. The authors questioned this seeming contradiction, which is the only part the mass media seemed interested in. What was not reported was that the researchers suggested a series of answers for the contradiction, including: the improper use of sunscreen, sunscreen's ineffectiveness to prevent skin cancer, or factors other than UV rays are attributing to the increased risk of NMSC and melanoma. It is true that other studies

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 95

㄰

have indicated that sunscreen appears not effective in preventing melanoma and basal-cell carcinoma in particular.

㤵 㜵

㈵

The authors published a response to the article and the resulting media misreporting in the July 2010 Lancet (which is one of the most respected medical journals in the world) stating: “Although sunscreen use has not been shown to offer protection from melanoma and basalcell carcinomas, there is ample evidence to support the protective effects of consistent application of sunscreens against squamous-cell carcinomas and precursor lesions, even in immune-compromised recipients of organ transplants. This differential protective effect of sunscreen use in subtypes of skin cancers can be partly attributed to the role of other environmental factors in the pathogenesis of NMSC. However, UV radiation remains the most consistently implicated factor in NMSC.” (Maden, Lear & Szeimies, 2010.)

One of the great concerns with sunscreen use is that most do not use it correctly in that insufficient amounts are applied, staying out longer in the sun than the SPF is protecting, not using broad-spectrum protection. Sun exposure remains the cause of approx. 99% of nonmelanoma skin cancers and 95% of melanomas in Australia.

Remember that UVB is almost completely absorbed by the epidermis; only approx. 20% of these photons reach the epidermal basal layers or the epidermal junction. UVA on the other hand penetrates into the dermis – which is why UVB is the causative factor in skin cancers (being epidermal) and UVA is responsible for the dermal breakdown and thus signs of ageing.

CONCLUSION While there is confusion out there as to Vitamin D, sunlight and sunscreen, it is hoped that the above information has provided explanation as to the reality. Your education with clients remains vital

in dispelling the multiple myths that abound. Adequate sun protection is still required – the risk of skin cancer and skin ageing are far greater than the risk of Vitamin D deficiency. Revise the diet and take supplements if concerned with Vitamin D intake. While the sun helps to synthesis Vitamin D in the skin, the associated risks from UVR are too great. It is also true that as we age the skin cannot synthesize Vitamin D as efficiently and the kidneys are less able to convert Vitamin D into its active hormone form; additional reasons to take supplemental Vitamin D.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

REFERENCES Farreons, J. Barnadas, M. Rodriguez, J. 1998, 'Clinically prescribed sunscreen does not decrease serum Vitamin D concentrations sufficiently either to induce changes in parathyroid function or in metabolic markers', British Journal of Dermatology, Vol 139, pp. 422-427.

Gilchrest, B. 2007, 'Sun protection and Vitamin D: Three dimensions of obfuscation', Journal of Steroid Biochemistry & Molecular Biology, vol. 103, pp. 655-663.

Linos, E. Keiser, E. Kanzler, M 2010, 'Effect on sun protection behaviours on vitamin D levels in the US populations', Journal of Investigative Dermatology, vol. 130, (abstract suppl.)

Madan, V. Lear, J. T. & Szeimies, R. 2010, 'The questionable effectiveness of sunscreen', The Lancet, Vol. 376, No. 9736, p. 162.

Marks, R. Foley, P.A. Jolley, D. Knight, K.R. Harrison, J. & Thompson, S.C. 1995, 'The effect of regular sunscreen use on vitamin D levels in an Australian population: Results of a randomised controlled trial’. Archive of Dermatology, vol. 131, no. 11, pp: 1337-1139.

Norman, A. W. 1998, 'Sunlight season, skin pigmentation, vitamin D and 25hydroxytvitamin D: Integral components of the vitamin D endocrine system', American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, Vol. 68, pp. 1108-1110.

Terushkin, et al, 2010, 'Estimated equivalency of vitamin D production from natural sun exposure versus oral vitamin D supplementation across seasons at two US latitudes', J. American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 62, no. 10, pp, 929.

NEW HORIZONS’ Canberra 2011 Full Conference Six DVD Box Sets

Now Available KNOWLEDGE IS POWER! If you attended NEW HORIZONS' CONFERENCE in Canberra and would like to review all the sessions here is your chance to purchase the DVDs for you and your staff.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

You can purchase the complete set of six DVDs of the six speakers attractively boxed for just $166 including postage and handling.

This is an invaluable tool also for those who were not able to attend, giving them the opportunity to gain from the knowledge presented.

To order please contact APAN on info@apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360 and order your set today.

㈵

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 96

business ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Identifying & Developing the Culture that contributes to Your unique

CLIENT EXPERIENCE – Culture Part II

By Mark D. Viney

Business experts globally are identifying the new paradigm that is strengthening client loyalty and contributing to business growth, and it all has to do with the human element of culture. Even if the salon adjacent to yours is using the same product, why should clients come to you and not take their business to your competitor? What is your differentiating element? In the final analysis it will come down to the way your client is treated, the way you go about delivering your services and, ultimately, the experience you create that will engage them with you as the preferred service provider and business they would like to stay loyal to.

This is Part II of a new series of articles presented by Mark Viney on the whole issue of culture. Mark is a qualified teacher and educator. This article should be read in conjunction with Part I, which was presented on pages 60-63 of the Summer issue Volume 11 of APJ. Every time people gather together on a regular basis they create a “culture”. This culture can either be deliberately fostered or not focused on at all; regardless, the culture will develop, and it is this culture that will attract others to the group or cause ones to leave and seek alternative groups.

The culture of any group is based on the values and ideas that they share. However, not all group members have equal weight given to their ideas and values. Dominant individuals or closely aligned subgroups tend to propagate their ideas and values as the key ones of the group and in doing so overwhelm less forceful individuals' ideas and values and drive the culture of the group.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Gaining an understanding of culture and how it works will benefit both business owners and employees.

In Part One of this series of articles (APJ Summer 2011) we examined in detail The Barrett Seven Levels of Consciousness Model, which describes the development of human consciousness. These seven needs that constitute the seven levels of human motivation are: 1. Survival: Satisfying your physiological needs and creating a safe and secure environment for yourself to grow.

2. Relationships: Satisfying your need for belonging, and feeling loved and accepted by those with whom you interact daily.

Self-Esteem: Satisfying your need to feel good about yourself, your ability to manage your life, and building pride in your performance.

Transformation: Becoming more of who you really are by uncovering your authentic self and aligning your ego with your soul.

Internal cohesion: Finding meaning for your life by uncovering your passion or purpose and creating a vision for the future you want to create.

Making a Difference: Actualising your sense of purpose by cooperating with others for mutual benefit and fulfilment.

Service: Devoting your life to self-less service in pursuit of your passion or purpose and your vision. ㄰

The “lower” needs, levels 1 to 3, focus on the needs of the ego in a physical body – our physiological need for survival, and our emotional needs for belonging and self-esteem. The focus of the fourth level is personal transformation. This is where we apply our intellect to our personal development by pursuing the inquiry into “Who am I?”, “Why am I here?” and, “What is my purpose”. The “higher” needs, levels 5 to 7, focus on the needs of the soul to live out its purpose – the need to find meaning in our lives, the need to make a difference in the world and the need to be of service.

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 97

㄰ 㤵 㜵

This is one of the tools developed and designed by Richard Barrett of Richard Barrett & Associates as a framework to map the values of individuals and organisations. This is part of an excellent suite of tools c a l l e d t h e C u l t u r a l Tr a n s f o r m a t i o n To o l s ( C T T ) . (http://www.valuescentre.com/products__services/?sec=cultural_tra nsformation_tools_%28ctt%29) The Barrett Values Centre can be contacted at this link if you wish to use CTT in your own organisation.

㈵

CULTURE OF THE GROUP IN THE BUSINESS So in Part One of our “Culture article” we focused on understanding ourselves and gaining insight into individual motivations. In this Part Two we will be focusing on the culture of the group of individuals in a business.

The culture of your business is either your biggest asset or your biggest liability. Numerous studies into organisational performance have clearly defined culture as the most significant differentiator of performance.

In an ideal world the culture of your business should reflect who you are and what you stand for. However, in the real world cultures develop within a group with or without planning, so to develop the culture you want (and need for success) requires understanding and planning. The more individuals involved in any organisation, the more difficult it is to establish a unified culture across the group.

establish the culture of your business it may actually alienate staff members who either are unwilling or unable to adopt to the culture you are trying to establish. You cannot afford to have splinter groups or individuals in your business working against the culture you are working hard to establish.

This is more of a problem in Australia than say America, as the culture of our society supports the “rebel against the establishment” as a hero figure (eg Ned Kelly). In fact, in many circles of our society, this cultural element is so strong that it is considered “just plain wrong” for anyone to insist on conformation to establish a “code”.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

One way to overcome this cultural element is to involve all the “stakeholders” in the process of developing the culture for your business. This approach only can work if you as the business owner are established clearly in at least the Transformation phrase of individual development, and so they are not threatened by this approach. If you are still working through the fears of lack in the first three stages of development this approach will seriously challenge you and, ultimately, may not work for you. As a strategy to establish any culture this is, in my opinion, the best. When done successfully it fulfils the fundamental element of culture that is “belonging” to the culture. If we are involved in the decision-making process we take ownership. In an established business this really is the only approach

As a business owner you need to identify three things: 1.

2.

3.

What is the culture of your business?

Who is the individual or subgroup in your business that drives the culture?

Who if any are the individuals that are alienated from the group based on this culture?

1. What is the culture of your business?

This is often hard to identify, especially if you are too close to the business. The questions you need to ask yourself are: a. When someone comes in contact with my business what do they perceive about it? b. If they were to use five individual words or phrases to describe it what would they be? c. In order of importance which two individual words or phrases best reflect their perception of the business?

2. Who is the individual or sub-group in your business that drives the culture? ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Who is the guardian of your business's culture? When you reflect on your business's culture, who is driving it? Peer group pressure is an example of a group driving culture. If you are not the driver or in the driving group, then you need to make plans to change it.

3. Who if any are the individuals that are alienated from the group based on this culture? ㈵

This can be a negative thing if the culture is exclusive and excluding.

As a business your culture should be inclusive and including, especially towards your clients. However, when you set out to

that can readily change “wrong culture”. Therefore by engaging your staff in identifying and developing the behavioural elements that will be recognised as the “salon culture” this will ensure that they will understand, accept and contribute in implementing it in your business.

After all they were contributors to its identity.

OWNER-DRIVEN APPROACH As the owner you need to “drive” this approach. Pre-planning is the key to being successful. Go back to The Barrett Seven Levels of Consciousness Model (covered in Part one in APJ Summer 2011) and try and honestly place yourself and your staff on the chart. You will find it much easier to “see” where the others are, but often it is harder to find yourself. Seek help from close friends and/or family. Locating everyone will help you understand what the driving motivation is behind each member of the group. This understanding will help in your pre-planning.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 98

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The next step is to do some research on successful businesses. Visit them and experience a range of their treatments, focusing on those similar to what you offer. Take note of everything from the first time you see the front of the business until you leave. Take note of the physical environment, how the staff look, what they say (both verbally and with their body language), and more importantly, the atmosphere that is created by all the elements. Keep asking yourself “what have they done, why have they done it that way and how does that make me feel”. Look for the small touches that make all the difference. You are trying to identify the elements that create the atmosphere, as this is the manifestation of the culture of that business. People remember atmosphere – how they felt – well after they have forgotten everything else.

Talk to experts in the industry about what they think the elements are that create successful businesses. There are many successful business owners in our industry who are prepared to help others achieve the same success.

As an APAN member access Tina Viney, she can help you evaluate your culture. If necessary she can also point you in the right direction of where you can view a business culture prior to evaluating your own model. If you are a Platinum Corporate Member then make a time with her and use one of your mentoring sessions. Keep reminding yourself that the information you are looking for are the elements that work together to create the total effect we call atmosphere.

FRANCHISING MODEL OF BUSINESS CULTURE Franchising is an excellent example of establishing a core culture and duplicating it in other locations and within different groups. Look at various franchises in various industries. Focus on the successful ones.

McDonald’s is perhaps the most successful out of them all. What are the key elements that are found in each different McDonald's location? Train yourself to look for the core elements. What is it that they do to create the atmosphere and culture that is their “brand”?

Colours, uniform dress, systems of doing tasks that are repeated “exactly” the same each time. Everything is important from how they greet, to how they make the burgers. Notice the cross-training of staff and specialty staff (eg McCafe).

WHAT CULTURE DO YOU WANT IN YOUR BUSINESS? Once you have done your research then it is time to decide what culture you want in your business. Influenced by the successful salons you have researched, start by thinking about the feelings or atmosphere you want to create in your business. How did they achieve this atmosphere? What were the key elements that provided these feelings? What of these elements can I introduce in my business?

What other things can I do to promote these feelings?

㄰ 㤵

Now at this point you may be a little confused. If you are going for the corporate approach of engaging the stakeholders, why do you, as the owner, have to decide on the culture you want for your business? The simple answer is that, as the owner, you are going to have to “drive” and “guide” the process for the group (you will “facilitate” the process). As such you will need to have a clear picture on where and what you are heading for. You have the broad picture settled on and as a group you will decide what specifics will be implemented to achieve the desired result.

㜵

The final step you need to do before engaging the group is to identify a list of core values you want to base everything on. APAN's Code of Conduct is an excellent resource to help here. ㈵

㄰

PROCESS WITH THE STAKEHOLDERS Now it is time to engage the group of “stakeholders”. Make a time clear from everything else. You want the staff to be focused on the task and not being distracted by anything else. It needs to be a time they are employed to attend and make sure everyone attends. It is important enough to close the business to the public for the meeting.

㤵 㜵

Remember you are the facilitator and have a clear plan before the meeting of what sort of outcome you want. Don't allow individuals to dominate. You need all of the group's members being involved.

㈵

Start by talking briefly about what culture is and how it needs to be deliberately fostered. Talk in terms of the clients’ impressions and general atmosphere of the place. Acknowledge the elements that are already in place in your business. Explain this is not throwing everything out but rather refocusing on key elements to make sure what we want for a culture is what we have.

Then as a group brainstorm on a whiteboard or on large sheets of paper key core values that they want the workplace to portray and the business to be known for. Make sure you get at least one from each person. At this point just put down words or ideas. It is not time to discuss them, just to list them.

Once you have exhausted the group’s ideas then it is time to focus in on three or four core values. (People need to be able to easily remember the values.) There are many ways you can do this. You could get each person to pick three core values from the list that they feel are the most important and what they would like to be known for.

Then add up the votes and select the top four core values.

Alternatively, as a group you could decide which three or four are most important. Whatever way you choose to do it, you need to get down to the three or four you need. Obviously your own ideas can direct the group to reasonable outcomes here if needed. Although from my experience reasonable people seldom differ in their opinions, so this is not normally needed.

It is important at this stage that you make sure the core values cover at least levels 3, 4 and 5 of the Seven Levels of Consciousness model.

This will keep you focused on the key issues that drive performance.

The next step is to develop three or four behaviour statements for each value. Since values are concepts that transcend contexts, and behaviours are contextual, it may be necessary to identify different behaviours for different parts of the organisation. Remember that behaviour statements are things that you do.

Again brainstorming and writing ideas down is an excellent strategy to involve the whole group. Then focus the group on the three or four behaviours that will best reflect each value.

You now have the framework of your culture – core values and the key behaviours that reflect each value. And what you will notice, as your proceed with implementation of these values in the workplace, is that they will resonate positively with your employees, because they were involved in the process of choosing them and so feel a sense of ownership.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

REFERENCES: Richard Barrett, Liberating the Corporate Soul: Building a Visionary Organisation, Butterworth-Heinemann, Boston, 1998, pp. 109-110 Richard Barrett, Building a Values-Driven Organisation: A Whole System Approach to Cultural Transformation, Butterworth-Heinemann, Boston, 2006, pp. 125-128

㈵

APJ 99

professionalinspiration ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Making a difference to

Skin Health & Wellness

By Gina Illingsworth

Every now and then you meet someone who can truly inspire us, especially if they have pursued a different angle in what they are doing and managed to succeed in the process.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Gina Illingsworth is one such aesthetician. Her business is located in the country town of Eumundi in Northern Queensland and she is making a difference not only to her clients' skin, but also in achieving great relief to many of their ailments. Gina is completely dedicated to the wellbeing of her clients. Having qualified as an aesthetician over 24 years ago she brings a great deal of personal knowledge and experience to her work, ensuring that she can make an incredible difference to the lives of her loyal clientele – a relationship that is based on trust, quality treatments and going the extra mile.

Here she shares with us her philosophy and how taking the wellness approach to a new level has enabled her to grow her business and also achieve a great deal of personal satisfaction in knowing she can improve the quality of life of all who trust her and her services.

APJ1: Tell us a little about your background and qualifications and how you started out in the aesthetics industry?

Gina: In the early 1980s I was working in aged care for over seven years in country South Australia and decided I wanted to learn massage so that I could help improve the quality of life of our patients, but ended up doing a full diploma in Aesthetics at the Hyde Park College of Cosmetology and Beauty Therapy in South Australia, where I also completed a CIDESCO qualification in Aesthetics. I then worked for 18 months in a salon before moving on to open my own business, which I called Angels Beauty. I started servicing nursing homes with massage and aromatherapy for which I had also gained qualifications in, and continued to expand and build my business with other clients as well.

APJ2: What is your philosophy as far as your work is concerned and your approach to gaining the best results from the treatments you are offering?

Gina: My philosophy is based around the principles of pursuing health and happiness. I have always taken a complete holistic approach in how I operate and deliver my treatments. When dealing with my clients my primary objective is to listen very carefully to them so that I can identify what they perceive as the key concern and consideration before I decide the best course of action to take with them. I also work closely with other practitioners and alternative therapists such as naturopaths, so that my clients can receive benefits from the collective skills of other practitioners as collaboratively we work to achieve real results in improved wellbeing as well as skin improvement.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 100

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ3: Do you recommend body treatments to clients whose key concern is their face or skin, and if yes, why?

Gina: I am a firm believer that to make a real difference on the surface of the skin we must take into account and address the internal influences or we will not be able to achieve real results on the skin.

Things such as stress, toxicity, inflammation or pain in the body contribute to accelerated ageing. Directing my client to make small changes to their lifestyle will assist the body to be in a better state to support treatment results and allow the body to sustain these results for a much longer period of time. Also implementing treatments as part of the mix that addresses whole body wellness is very much part of the equation of getting the very best results from their skin treatments.

APJ4: What wellness and detoxification procedure do you offer your clients and what kind of results are you seeing?

Gina: We work extensively with body exfoliation, massage and far infra-red technologies such as the Thermadome. By implementing a combined approach we are eradicating many skin problems and are also able to bring great relief to arthritic sufferers, diabetic nerve pain and individuals who also suffer with poor energy levels. By exfoliating the skin first we are able to remove surface impurities, and we then follow with the Therpadome for 30 minutes. The penetration of far infra-red rays into the body contributes to great healing benefits, release of deep-seated toxicity that may contribute to chronic pain in the body, minimises inflammation and restores a healthy blood circulation to oxygenate and nourish all the organs of the body, including the skin. We usually follow with a full body massage directly after the Thermadome. As the body is warm and the client is relaxed we can offer greater benefits in lymphatic drainage or to further sooth and calm the body, while improving energy levels. For the face, we also find that through the Thermadome by releasing toxicity through perspiration the skin becomes clearer, more vibrant, and we have also noted an improvement in hydration levels – a wonderful adjunct to our facial treatments whether we are dealing with acne or skin rejuvenation, Thermadome can substantially improve treatment result by restoring skin health from the inside out.

Aesthetic therapists should be recognised as skin and body experts, and to maintain and foster this reputation they should seriously commit to increasing their knowledge in the areas of wellness as this is definitely where the industry is going due to consumer demand. In 10 years’ time I see university qualifications in aesthetics and clinical aesthetics as being mainstream. As a result of higher qualifications I also see the collaborative interfacing of other healthcare professionals with aesthetic therapists becoming a growing and standard practice.

As a result all serious aestheticians should invest in growing their knowledge in wellness modalities to be better prepared with changes that we will be seeing in our industry.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ7: If a colleague wanted to introduce wellness treatments in their business, how do you recommend they start?

Gina: I think the best thing one should do is start by identifying where their passion is – is it nutrition, is it cleansing the body, massage or perhaps naturopathy? Whatever you believe and are passionate about should be the point where you should start, as this is where you will find dedicating time to increase your knowledge or even your qualifications will be a fun and a self-fulfilling exercise. If it is an area that is outside your qualifications then engage and collaborate with someone who is qualified. It should be your initiative to introduce them to your clients and work together to enhance the client's results and the experience. Implementing new protocols can sometimes be expensive. When I first started out with my business I did not have a lot of money, so working collaboratively with others made all the difference, because each one of us did our part and collectively we provided a superior service. Another advice I would give is, whatever you do, make sure you do it well and to a level of excellence before you move on to something else. Build your reputation as an expert, not a Jack of all trades.

Gina Illingsworth can be contacted at Always Hair and Beauty Ph: 0438 840 347.

I also find that a daily treatment for me with the Thermadome is a lifesaver. It enables me to get rid of accumulated toxicity, improve mental clarity, relax me and at the same time increase my energy levels. Wellness is about having simple but consistent strategies that provide you with a cumulative long-term benefit. We are seeing amazing results with this treatment in improving also metabolism, stamina and pain relief and discomfort.

APJ5: Is it difficult to promote wellness treatments to your clients and to what do you attribute your success in this?

Gina: For 20 years I have advocated the belief that the body should

㄰ 㤵

not be viewed as independent parts, but considered in its entirety with respect for its interrelated exchange of blood, nutrients and toxicity. I always speak from the heart and from a point of conviction. This makes it easier for clients to accept and understand where I am coming from. They value my knowledge and see that it is the logical approach to addressing not only the topical concern, but also incorporating treatments that support the body to function better, minimising the impact of toxicity and ultimately disease.

㄰ 㤵

㜵

㈵

㜵

APJ6: How do you see the aesthetics industry evolving in the next 10 years?

Gina: I really believe that the term aesthetician is one that is slowly

㈵

gaining recognition by the consumers, and all serious therapists should insist that they are not called beauticians but aestheticians.

APJ 101

wellnesstherapies As aestheticians you are in the prime position to gain this knowledge and to educate your clients at this level as well. Prevention they say is better than cure and that applies not only to skin ageing, but also to disease. While you may not be qualified in the area of nutrition and other healthcare modalities, wellness does not require qualifications. It just requires knowledge and simple strategies that collectively have the potential to transform a person's life.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Wellness Trends and Anti-ageing Therapies

They also need regular reinforcement, and as a therapist you can gently and systematically achieve this through simple protocols that you can introduce into your business.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Learning how to introduce this new sector to your business

By Harry Good - Naturopath Have you noticed new trends emerging in the beauty and skincare industries? Of course every year heralds a new stream of products and services, many catering for the ever-increasing needs of an ageing population. In fact, the latest Australian statistics reveal that it's the baby boomer generation that drives much of the health and beauty sector, as they have more disposable income to invest in their health and their looks. And now scientists are tapping into what may be the fountain of youth and the causes of ageing by identifying a combination of lifestyle choices that implemented collectively on a regular basis can contribute to slowing down the ageing process and defending the body against disease. It's great news, especially if you are in the business of making people look and feel better.

Recent studies have revealed that the main causes of premature ageing and the rapid increase in obesity, diabetes and dementia is linked to our lifestyle choices and lack of exercise. In just 30 years we've trebled our disease statistics.

Today it's almost daily headlines - the impact of lifestyle choices on our weight, our mental health and of course the condition of our skin.

Recent reports have gone so far as to suggest that over 70% of all cancers are self-inflicted, and that cancer itself is typically the result of bad lifestyle choices.

In essence, what we're hearing from health experts and government agencies alike is influencing the growth and evolution of the beauty and wellness industries if we take note and look at ways of incorporating simple strategies to introduce a wellness component to the services we are offering. Already we're seeing changes as more beauty therapists add 'wellness' treatments and lifestyle advice into their beauty protocols. This has not only been welcomed by their clients and gaining them as loyal patrons, but it has also helped to boost much needed revenue to the business.

WHY IS WELLNESS MAKING HEADLINES?

㄰ 㤵

Wellness is best described as the opposite of illness. We view illness as those discomforting symptoms that cause pain, tension and inflammation. Illness prevents us from not only enjoying life to the full, it affects our ability to work, play, reach our highest potential and rob us of our quality of life. However, an absence of discomforting symptoms does not necessarily mean wellness either.

You can advocate the benefits of regular exercise, a clean, healthy diet, rejuvenating sleep and avoiding harmful chemicals, all of which, play a part in protecting our health and promoting a longer life.

Naturally a 'lifestyle for wellness' approach also maintains healthy skin and a youthful glow. Studies now confirm the benefits of a wellness lifestyle that can enhance and in fact, work in synergy with every skin rejuvenation and beauty treatment.

Our records indicate that salon treatments such as lasers, microdermabrasion and peels that have also incorporated 'lifestyle therapy' are experiencing better and much improved results by targeting the primary causes of wrinkles and premature ageing skin.

A holistic approach not only adds a new dimension to beauty treatments, it creates new streams of income for those who recognise the opportunities.

Armed with a mountain of information, a forward-thinking salon can now offer much more than just younger-looking skin as a treatment outcome. It can also offer extra benefits that can aim at reducing stress, losing weight and regaining energy.

An example of this would be talking to a client about the importance of sleep and the negative impact of stress. Stress is a skin killer. Stress releases over 40 hormones and bio-chemicals into the bloodstream, making the body more acidic. Stress also affects healthy sleeping patterns and may lead to eating disorders, all of which are linked to skin problems and weight gain.

Clients may need a little encouragement to make lifestyle changes, but if it helps them to look and feel younger then it's a great incentive.

THE ISSUE OF EXCESSIVE ACIDITY Research in now identifying that disease can also be the result of a body that is too acidic. Acid-related illnesses have reached epidemic proportions, so talking to your clients about acid-causing foods and drinks can certainly help slow down premature ageing. Acid-related symptoms may include heartburn, cellulite, low energy, poor digestion, weight gain, aches and pains, fluid retention, diabetes and premature skin ageing.

㜵

㤵 㜵

PROVIDING SOLUTIONS ㈵

㄰

Today, wellness requires a pro-active approach by each individual to maintain a level of both mental and physical wellbeing. The science makes it clear. Lifestyle has an impact on our health more than at any other time in history, because much of what we eat and drink is slowly killing us.

Contributing factors to acidity include excessive coffee, cheese, eggs, meat, processed foods, alcohol and stress - all of which add to the burden of the body becoming too acidic. Alkaline food on the other hand includes fresh fruit and vegetables - something that is often lacking in sufficient quantities in the modern diet. So what can you offer your clients in the salon that can assist to fight acidity?

㈵

APJ 102

Fight the signs of Ageing, Detox and BOOST METABOLISM With Health Chambers

SOLUTION: One solution is to hydrate the body with alkaline water.

Alkaline water can be offered to your clients and even sold by the bottle. Alkaline water has become increasingly popular around the world as research revealed that cancer hates an alkaline environment.

Salons are already promoting and selling alkaline water along with alkaline food charts and alkaline cookbooks. Alkaline water is also packed with minerals like calcium and magnesium that are essential also to the health of the skin. It is a well-known fact that a highly acidic body will have difficulty in losing weight. Enhancing alkalinity in the body will include benefits such as not only a clearer more even skin tone, but also cellulite reduction and a slimmer figure.

SOLUTION: Serve your client with a cup of herb tea and tell them about the benefits of alkalinity. Here are five teas that are highly alkaline: ! Yerba Mate Tea: A wonderful tea, native to South America, that can be really useful in detoxifying and cleansing. It gives a slight energy boost that is free from the jitters of caffeine-based drinks such as coffee and green tea, and each infusion of yerba mate contains: Vitamins: A, C, E, B1, B2, Niacin (B3), B5, B Complex, Minerals: Calcium, Manganese, Iron, Selenium, Potassium, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Zinc. Additional Compounds: Carotene, Fatty Acids, Chlorophyll, Flavonols, Polyphenols, Inositol, Trace Minerals, Antioxidants, Tannins, Pantothenic Acid and 15 Amino Acids. ! Rooibos Tea: Absolutely packed with antioxidants, this awesome tea is a great drink to have if you're trying to transition away from coffee. It's slightly bitter taste helps replace that bitter urge for coffee and black tea. It's packed full of nutrients, including calcium, manganese, zinc and magnesium - all powerful alkaline minerals. ! Peppermint Tea: Very alkaline, very tasty and very, very good for digestion. It's refreshing, natural and caffeine free and has been widely recommended for IBS, flatulence, bad breath, nausea and heartburn. ! Ginger Tea: Another popular tea, this zesty, spicy tea is also good for digestion and nausea - but is also great for circulation, colds, flu, stress and headaches.

Rosemary Tea: Native to the Mediterranean, Rosemary is another big hitter in the antioxidant stakes. It is high in: beta-carotene/Vitamin A, thiamin/Vitamin B1, riboflavin/Vitamin B2, niacin/Vitamin B3, Vitamin B6, Vitamin B12, biotin, pantothenic acid, Vitamin C, Vitamin D, Vitamin E and Vitamin K, making it a great all-rounder!

DETOXIFYING AND METABOLIC TREATMENTS Statistics also now confirm that 80% of the populations are not exercising enough and the effects of a sedentary lifestyle are contributing to poor circulation, digestion and lowered oxygen levels that also lead to a sluggish metabolism.

Exercise not only burns calories, whenever we sweat we also eliminate toxins and chemicals via the skin. Exercise does wonders for collagen production and boosting oxygen flow and nutrients to the skin, brain and all our vital organs. It keeps us young, fights stress and provides a host of heart, mind and skin-beautifying benefits.

SOLUTION: With all the current media regarding exercise, salons now have a great incentive to promote and provide 'passive exercise' treatments. These not only help the body detoxify, but also provide numerous other benefits to the skin and body.

In-salon saunas or Far-Infrared domes are a wonderful way to support detoxification, burn extra calories and enhance metabolism to burn

Direct from the wellness clinics of Europe comes the ultimate In holistic beauty with metabolic wellness treatments:

! ! ! ! !

Reduce stress Promote deep rest and improve sleep Boost circulation and metabolism Reduce the appearance of cellulite and stretch marks Stimulate collagen for younger-looking skin

Detoxify the body and rediscover lost energy. While nothing beats regular exercise, ThermaDome provides the benefits of exercise to help boost metabolism and enhance rejuvenation.

Amazingly simple, yet highly effective! Offer your clients 30 minute treatment for skin rejuvenation with added health benefits. Introduce a new service to your clients or even sell them the ThermaDome for their home use. The choice is yours.

Future Health Research

Ph: 07 5641 2275 Email: Thermadome@gmail.com www.MetabolicTreatments.com unwanted fat. They also assist in boosting collagen in the skin and also are highly effective in alleviating pain in the body due to arthritis and other ailments.

These treatments are widely used in Europe and Asia, and play an important role in skin rejuvenation, stress reduction and general body detoxification.

Thermal therapy is a very valuable treatment for not just the beauty industry, but for all health clinics to adopt - as they provide the easiest way to introduce many of the benefits of exercise.

Even hair salons have started using these new thermal chambers, providing a very powerful and popular menu of wellness, beauty and rejuvenation treatments, and being simple to use they can add greatly to the weekly income.

Compact and easy to manoeuvre they prove the opportunity of enhancing treatment results, improving energy levels, relieving stress and tension and improving metabolism. Many salons have replaced the tanning bed with a ThermaDome. Clients are not only addicted to the benefits, they are recommending them also to friends and promoting the salon in the meantime.

CONCLUSION While traditional mainstream skin and body treatments will always be your core business, introducing a wellness component is now becoming the new vogue and it is proving to re-energise not only clients who value and appreciate it, but also invigorating the business growth and profitability.

APJ 103

fairworkcompliance ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

Fair Work Compliance

—

A salon's case study

By Mike Stone Mike Stone is a partner of a salon/spa business. His daughter, who is a qualified therapist, is a Corporate Platinum member of APAN. His role in the business is to be totally dedicated to working on the business and dealing with staffing and the issue of compliance to Fair Work requirements. The salon joined as a member of APAN in August 2011, by which time they were experiencing some incredible challenges with the issues of wage classifications and award coverage for their staff.

Since then we have been able to assist them with current cases, however, the original case has led to a great deal of staff conflict and stress. Mike has asked if he could present his story within our journal for the benefit of other salons and clinics. His objective is to share some of the lessons learnt, with the hope that he could possibly spare others the pain and disruption his business has had to endure.

㄰

If you operate a small non-incorporated salon then you should read our story as it may be of value to you now or in the near future.

with this as Prime Minister Gillard had promised that it would not cost us a dollar more to implement.

In 2006 we purchased a long-established spa and beauty salon in Airlie Beach, Queensland, which is a tourist destination. We employed therapists and trained full-time trainees as well as schoolbased trainees during the time we have operated it. Other than the GFC and the high Australian dollar that have contributed to the decline in the number of tourists we had no industrial problems until January 2011.

Fair Work advised us to look up the on-line Transitional Awards, which were advertised online in December 2010. We read it and noted the changes that affected us. However, the trainee rates in it were much lower than we were paying to our two full-time trainees. As a result we phoned Fair Work for clarification and were told that the July figures were incorrect and that in fact we were paying them as employees not as trainees.

We made a fatal mistake in July of 2010 to enquire through Fair Work's infoline on the changes that were in store for us with the new Modern Award system and sought clarification for the trainee current hourly rates. We felt that the hourly rate was a bit high for trainees, but the transition seemed simple as they explained it and they also confirmed that we would retain our tourism area zero penalties and loadings to operate seven days. However, we would have to start paying penalties under the transitional system. We were not happy

We attempted to put into place the new system with the appropriate agreements and time sheets. In the agreement we included that the salon would operate six to seven day weeks, but staff would only work five-day weeks. If they were required to work more it would be considered as overtime and Saturday and Sundays would come with 20% of the 33% and 100% penalties until July 2012 when it would increase to 40%.

㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰ 㤵

㜵

㈵

APJ 104

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

The girls did not like the new regime of filling out sheets and did not want to sign the agreements as they did not like the new rate of only 20% penalty rates for weekend work. The trainees were especially upset about the drop to the correct trainee rates.

We advised the girls to call Fair Work for clarification as we had done, but the results were disastrous. The girls were told we were wrong.

When we phoned Fair Work on this matter we were told that indeed we were correct. However, as the therapists felt their Fair Work information was different they were very upset and did not believe us.

Chaos reigned for a few weeks until one therapist walked out saying she had been advised to bring a case against us.

After receiving the paperwork that the employee had submitted an inspector from Fair Work arrived to discuss matters with us. The inspector proceeded to tell us we were completely wrong in how we were employing our staff and that the pay rate we were going by and the penalty rates were wrong too. She told us the website did not have the information on it that we said we had read in December 2010, and if we had received pay advice from the Fair Work Infoline that was wrong too. The inspector insisted that she could only conclude that we must have given them the wrong information when we asked.

What happened next can only be described as amazing. We went back to read what was on the Fair Work website with regards to the award information on which we had based our wages and that section had completely changed. The tourism allowances were gone, the agreement clause was gone. The only things that were the same were the holiday loading and the Saturday penalties of 25%. However, the worse part was a little clause saying staff had to have two consecutive days off in their week. This was not in the previous documents.

We were in shock and did not know where to go next. We had several discussions with Fair Work Infoline consultants over the next few days before the inspector came to visit us again. Amazingly we had confirmation from these phone calls that we were in fact correct.

We put this to the inspector when she arrived, but she stood on her decision that we were at fault and if we did not pay up we would suffer, and so we paid.

Shortly after this one of our trainees stormed out as she had phoned Fair Work as it was her 18th birthday and she was told she should be on a higher hourly rate. As a result of this another inspector arrived in due course. We made further calls to the Infoline – seven to be exact by the time the inspector called to see us again. We were told that we were again totally at fault and we were required to pay up. It was the cheapest way to go as the fines for non-payment were huge.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

By now we were extremely stressed and confused. We conducted further research on the matter and identified many unfair discrepancies in the Fair Work system that we believed contributed to the conflict we were suffering under. When the inspector arrived to collect payment we said no, and we wanted the first case reopened as according to our further investigation their position was totally incorrect.

The inspector was shocked and turned up again with reinforcements – two of them. They threatened, hassled and harassed us into accepting that we were wrong, but by the time a couple of hours had passed the amount they wanted us to pay as a fine had dropped by 75%. We said we would pay as long as all our questions on wage clarifications would be answered in writing by them to avoid such incidents again.

This was important to us as we wanted to make it clear that the matter in dispute was not due to negligence on our part as we had followed what was in the Award at the time, and that the cases with the two staff

members would be closed. However, they refused to put their answers in writing and as a result we refused to pay.

㄰ 㤵

Following this we received a “demand-to-pay or else” letter which we have taken to the Fair Work Commonwealth Ombudsman with a complaint as to the unfair way we have been treated.

Our legal advice has been that we are probably 95% right, but it is very complicated and it will be cheaper to pay up than fight it. However, it would mean that we will have to admit that we were bad employers and we were not. We have asked to be taken to court by Fair Work so our case can be adjudicated, but to date no reply on that one as well.

㜵

㈵

IN CONCLUSION In August 2011 we joined APAN and they have been a great support and help. Having a legal firm behind them who can offer us written responses is a great relief in protecting us against verbal disputes and misunderstandings with staff members.

My advise to any salon owner is if you have had or may have this sort of problem you will not be able to resolve it unless you request the communication in writing, or if you are having a face-to-face communication with Fair Work get someone to document the communication as verbal discussions are worthless when there is a problem.

Trying to run a successful business is hard enough without the added stress of wage award complications.

APAN'S RECOMMENDATION One of the services we provide to members is advice and clarification on wages. We recognise that salons and clinics are busy running their businesses and so we have put in place a simple system to assist them.

While there are several wage instruments on the Fair Work website to assist with finding answers to your questions, navigating through the system can be time consuming and sometimes confusing if you have not given all the information needed to get the right answer. Interpreting the Wage Awards can also be confusing at times and so APAN is working collaboratively with a very competent legal firm from Melbourne – Pointon Partners who specialise in industrial relations, business law and Trademarking.

Our strategy with our members is that we require for them to forward to us their request in writing and include their State, business status e.g. Pty Ltd, or registered business name, the qualification of the employee, the status of employment and the question they wish us to answer. This is then forwarded to our solicitors who respond in writing. We then suggest that this written response is presented to their staff as evidence of the interpretation to the law for their situation. By presenting the matter in writing it eliminates the possibility of any misunderstanding in verbal communications of “you said, they said, I said”.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

As you may be aware in February this year the Fair Work Act 2009 was up for review. APAN sent information out to the industry to put forward their concerns and recommendations.

These were included as part of an industry submission that APAN put forward to the government.

㈵

APJ 105

personaldevelopment ㄰ 㤵 㜵

The POWER OF CHOICE

㄰ 㤵 㜵

By Tina Viney ㈵

㈵

Each day when we wake up our day will be shaped predominantly by the choices and decisions that we make. Having willpower and self-discipline or their lack will play an important role in how our day will pan out. For example, you wish to go for a walk, knowing how good it is for your health and how wonderful you feel afterwards, but you feel too lazy, and prefer to postpone it for later and never get round to doing it. Does this sound familiar? How many times have you said, "I wish I had willpower and self-discipline"? How many times have you started to do something only to quit after a short while? We all have had experiences like these.

Everyone has a few habits they wish they could get rid of.

They may be subtle such as procrastination, lack of assertiveness or perhaps it's eating the wrong food too often. To overcome these habits or addictions, one needs a certain degree of willpower and self-discipline. Their possession makes a great difference in everyone's life, bringing to the fore inner strength, selfmastery and decisiveness. We often think of self-discipline as being tedious, but in fact it is only through self-discipline that we can achieve a rewarding life as we gain control over our life and steer it in the direction of fulfilment.

㜵

㈵

companion of willpower. It endows the one possessing it with the stamina to persevere in whatever he or she does. It bestows the ability to withstand hardships and difficulties, whether physical, emotional or mental. It grants the ability to reject immediate satisfaction in order to gain something better, but which requires effort and time.

Everyone has inner, unconscious, or partly conscious impulses making them say or do things they later regret. On many occasions people do not think before they talk or act. By developing these two powers, one becomes conscious of the inner, subconscious impulses, and gains the ability to reject them when they are not for his/her own good.

These two powers help us to choose our behaviour and reactions, instead of being ruled by them. Their possession won't

㄰

make life dull or boring. On the contrary, you will feel more powerful, in charge of yourself and your surroundings, happy and satisfied.

㤵

WILLPOWER – is the ability to overcome laziness and procrastination. It is the ability to control or reject unnecessary or harmful impulses. It is the ability to arrive at a decision and follow it with perseverance until its successful accomplishment. It is the inner power that overcomes the desire to indulge in unnecessary and useless habits, and the inner strength that overcomes inner emotional and mental resistance for taking action. It is one of the cornerstones of success, both spiritual and material.

How many times have you felt too weak, lazy or shy to do something you wanted to do? You can gain inner strength, initiative and the ability to make decisions and follow them. I can assure you it is not difficult to develop these two strengths when you focus on the rewards that they will bring. If you are earnest and are willing to become stronger, you will certainly succeed.

㄰ 㤵

SELF-DISCIPLINE – is the

DEFINITIONS OF WILLPOWER AND SELF-DISCIPLINE

㜵

㈵

APJ 106

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

WHY SELF-DISCIPLINE ?

We are a product of our environment. So consider the impact that the global economic downturn, uncertainty of the political arena, currency fluctuation and a lack of funding could possible have on your outlook? If we allow the negative impact of external forces to influence our mood and our performance then it would be right to say that we would be doomed. However, to our rescue we have choice and self-discipline. They are the guardians of our heart that allow us to determine what we feed off and how we position ourself in an uncertain world.

There is a misconception in the public mind regarding willpower. It is erroneously thought to be something strenuous and difficult, and that one has to exert and tense the body and mind when expressing it. This is one of the reasons why people avoid using it, though they are conscious of its benefits. However, this is a completely wrong concept. They acknowledge the fact that the employment of willpower in their life and affairs will greatly help them and that they need to strengthen it, yet they do nothing about it.

GETTING IT RIGHT Willpower gets stronger by holding back and not allowing the expression of unimportant, unnecessary and unhealthy thoughts, feelings, actions and reactions to dominate your thought life and your actions. If this saved energy is not allowed to be expressed it is stored inside you like a battery, and it becomes available at the time of need.

By practising appropriate exercises you develop your powers the same way as a person who trains his/her muscles in order to strengthen them. Furthermore, you are making way for a positive outlook to infiltrate your thoughts and encourage and build you up. Guarding your heart from negativity is in fact a valuable survival mechanism that will empower you to impact your world with greater creativity and resourcefulness.

An effective method for developing and improving these abilities is to perform certain actions or activities that you would rather avoid doing due to laziness, procrastination, weakness, shyness, etc. By doing things that you usually do not like to do, or feel too lazy to do, you overcome your subconscious resistance, train your mind to obey you, strengthen your inner powers and gain inner strength. Muscles get stronger by resisting the power of the barbells. Inner strength is attained by resisting meaninglessness action and choosing purpose-driven activities. Remember, strengthening one of these abilities automatically strengthens the other one.

healthy. For the sake of the exercise refuse the desire.

4. If you find yourself thinking unimportant, unnecessary, negative thoughts, try to develop a lack of interest in them by thinking about their futility and uselessness. Choose to focus on positive and productive thoughts and act upon them.

5. Overcome the temptation to be lazy. Convince yourself of the importance of what is to be done. Convince your mind that you gain inner strength when you act and do things, in spite of laziness, reluctance or senseless inner resistance.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Most of these exercises can be practised through a simple thing such as a decision to choose productivity over slothfulness. It's an attitude. You don't have to devote special times for them and they

will help you develop your willpower and self-discipline, enabling you to use them whenever you need them.

If you practise weight lifting, running or aerobics you strengthen your muscles, so that when you need to move or carry something heavy, for example, you have the strength for it. It is the same with willpower and self-discipline; by strengthening them, they become available for your use whenever you need them.

THE BENEFITS You need these skills to control your thoughts, improve your concentration and to become the boss of your mind. The stronger these skills are the more inner strength you possess.

Being the master of your mind you enjoy inner peace and happiness.

External events do not sway you, and circumstances have no power over your peace of mind. This might sound too unreal for you, but experience will prove to you that all the above is true.

These skills are vital for achieving success. They give you more control over your life, help you change and improve habits, and are essential for self- improvement, spiritual growth and for your business and professional success. Furthermore, they empower you to shape your destiny rather than become the victim of external forces and circumstances. Take charge of your future by developing habits and a mindset that will attract success in your direction in all areas of your life.

HERE ARE A FEW EXERCISES THAT MAY HELP YOU:

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

1. You have just finished a treatment and want to get ready for the next client. Don't cut corners in ensuring that you not only maintain the appropriate health and hygiene regulations in all your implements and tools, make sure that you take a little extra time to ensure that everything looks perfect in the room. Don't look at this as a chore – enjoy the environment you have just created and the standards that you are upholding.

2. You have greeted your client and introduced her to your room. You only have a certain amount of time to spend with him or her. Consider how you can best redeem the time with them not only for their benefit, but also for the benefit of the business. If a client feels that you just love to gossip they will more than likely engage with you in that way. This is a business opportunity lost. Set the tone of the communication through a professional and credible approach, ensuring that in the time they spend with you, you have elevated their respect for you as a person and as a professional. Sometimes, when you want to say something that is not important, decide not to say it.

3. You have a desire to eat something that you know is not

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 107

㄰ 㤵 㜵

cosmetictattoo Achieving PERFECT EYEBROWS Through Natural-Looking Hair Stroke with COSMETIC TATTOOING

㄰ 㤵 㜵

By Donna Moody-Martin ㈵

Cosmetic tattooing is a wonderful modality that can be used to enhance features and offer a more attractive and youthful appearance.

However, when performed incorrectly it can create real horror stories that we are all familiar with. Take for example eyebrows with hard defined outlines, or the brow that is blue-black and is unnatural and unflattering. So in this day and age why are we continually seeing them being performed?

The answer is there are Cosmetic Tattooists and then there are people who call themselves Cosmetic Tattooists. In a nutshell how a practitioner is trained and her continuing education in the field will equate to how skilled she is at performing a treatment.

Long gone are the days when the brow was pencilled in then a tattoo outline gave way to the shape and the inner area was filled with colour, any basic colour, because often the practitioners were not trained in colour. Imagine a hairdresser not trained in the various elements of colour - how to perceive colour, how to correct it, or simply how to prevent a colour change.

Many Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners were trained in the 1980s and even 1990s, but since then cosmetic tattoo has undergone many advances. By not keeping up with new advances they will not be able to deliver the level of skill that consumers are now asking for. Just like the hairdresser who was trained in the ‘80s, but has never taken an advanced cut or colour class since - the results can be quite disappointing, if not risky.

As President of the Australian Association of Cosmetic Tattoo our Committee has now agreed it is essential for all members to upgrade their skills in this field at least every three years. Every 18 months I upskill, but why would I bother when I am 20 years in the industry?

Because I can learn something new every time and this is why my business is experiencing such growth. Clients love to know you have expanded your skills.

EXAMINING PROBLEMATIC RESULTS Let's take a look again at the brow for example and let's actually look at some photos of bad brows:

Attractive and flattering eyebrows are all about shape, colour and dimension.

Do you really want this startled effect? No consideration or thought has gone into the client's facial shape; no thought has gone into the style to balance the face or on colour, just black.

㈵

To succeed in being a great eyebrow specialist you need to learn the art of makeup, then the art of colour and then you need to practice, practice and practice to master your skills.

These days in a training class we teach the practitioner to offer their clients a menu with choices. Here is an example:

Brow Menu Appetizers Block Colour

Salads

Colour Wash/Multi colour

Desserts

Individual Hair Strokes

Beverages

Colour Wash with Hair Strokes

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

This brow is too thin and has no shape and of course a really bad colour. The tattooist has tried to achieve a light brown, but obviously has mixed two colours together producing light browns with too much red pigment for this client who is a Fitzpatrick tone of about 2-3. This can be repaired by using an individual hair procedure either with a hand tool or with a flat needle on a rotary machine, or the best option is a sloped needle on a digital machine. The new colour should be a cool brown with two drops of colour corrector in an olive green tone - this will counteract the pink colour. By using the new hair stroke a thicker brow can be achieved with more shape.

Just like a restaurant we should be able to offer our client choices.

Some may want a full or block colour. In this case let's offer them a good choice of colour e.g. taupe, light brown, warm light brown, cool brown/red, base/grey, brown/darker brown or brown/black (never offer black for eyebrows as black is not a colour as such, only dimensions of blue, as the client will always end up with blue eyebrows as they fade).

㄰ 㤵 㜵

Other clients may want a soft-wash look. We can offer this by using an open-technique needle that allows a little skin to show through.

The vogue look in 2012 is for a “natural hair” look. We can offer this as a stand-alone procedure or as a colour wash with hair strokes, which is my personal favourite.

㈵

APJ 108

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

COLOUR INSTABILITY Why do colours fade? All pigments will in time fade. Individual hair strokes may fade quicker than a block colour. Other reasons why colour may fade include: ! Clients on certain medications ! Clients who swim regularly, or take saunas frequently ! Clients who are regularly outdoors ! Clients who are lacking enough iron levels will find that the pigment being iron based will be seen as the iron that their body is lacking and quickly use the colour in the brow or other areas that have been tattooed.

㤵 㜵

㈵

COLOUR VARIABLES There are several reasons why colours change and the longevity of the tint strength will vary. This may also be influenced by the particle size, the solution versus suspension absorption and density.

The body's absorption of ingredients used in formulas for tattoo affect the longevity of the colour implanted, such as iron oxide, blue, yellow and red. Studies have shown that we absorb colours at different rates.

Some people may absorb the blue, while a pink tone on the brow, others may take out the red and leave a blue/grey tone.

ACHIEVING DIMENSION To create a brow with dimension, you need to first start by designing the brow then commence the strokes across the brow. Consider angles and degree changes as you move across the length of the brow.

Reinforce each root base to create a natural hair, keeping a constant rhythm. Then add a medium colour and implant small accent strokes between those darker strokes for definition and continue through to the tail. The techniques may vary from shading/stippling or rolling.

A cool brown mixed with a drop of grey will give perfect results that are achieved with the feather-touch hand tool.

A background shadow brow in Deep Brown, followed by individual hair strokes using the digital Nouveau machine in Espresso.

Photo shows healed results after four weeks.

㄰

Individual Hairs applied with Digital machine using a sloped needle size 5 colour Dark Brown.

Nouveau Machine ㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

As with most practices, new techniques are constantly evolving. To retain your reputation as a professional your clients will what to see that you are constantly improving and upgrading your skills. This is the only way they will keep coming back to you.

㈵

APJ 109

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Introducing Mirabella to Australia

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Known for her positive spirit, infectious energy and her enthusiasm and love for the industry, Jai Harvey-Yin, Director of Absolute Spa, the Australian representatives for Bioelements Professional Skincare and New Inventions nutritional formulations, phoned with great excitement to let us know that she had signed the Australian distribution rights to Mirabella makeup. Mirabella is well known in the US as an exclusive spa, medi-spa and salon mineral makeup range with an incredible reputation for purity to complement aesthetic treatments and to provide salons with a luxurious brand to sell to their clients. ㄰

We caught up with Jai and asked her to share with us some information about these new and exciting products and what they propose to offer the Australian beauty industry.

㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ1. Tell us a little about the Mirabella Makeup – what is its competitive advantage?

Jai: Mirabella Beauty began as its founder worked in high-end department stores with brands such as Chanel and Dior, and was disillusioned because there weren't any high-end cosmetic products for salons to offer their clients – she decided to fix this and created Mirabella. The aim of Mirabella is to offer luxurious products that

contain the best ingredients for your skin, while remaining as clean as possible, but without compromising the ability to offer fashionforward colour choices as well.

Having also been a makeup artist myself for over 20 years – I can honestly say that I believe that this foundation is the best I've used and can recommend it to clients. Our motto is that you "date your eye shadow, but you marry your foundation" and I think that really rings true. Once you find a foundation that you love you are scared to change – well at least stop looking, I say.

From a salon perspective, we extend our usual Absolute Spa advantages to the Mirabella line – things like full educational support with lots of fun classes; affordable pricing structure, 100% markup, no monthly minimums, business builders, displays and other promotions.

So what is Mirabella's competitive advantage?

CLEAN, LUXURY PRODUCTS Mirabella is committed to providing high-quality, mineral-based prestige products using only the finest ingredients. Mirabella is a complete colour cosmetic line comprised of over 200 contemporary products and professional tools.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

MODERN COLOURS Mirabella offers an extensive array of colours that can achieve any desired look, from classic and timeless to fun and fashion-forward. A wide range of shades ensures women of all skin tones will find their perfect match.

㈵

APJ 110

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

QUALITY, INNOVATIVE FORMULAS The newest formulations and latest in cosmetic technology is used to create exciting and exclusive products that are great for your skin, which is the important factor in today's professional market.

APJ2. What made you take on the distribution of a makeup range?

Jai: To be honest I've been looking for a makeup range for a while to add to Absolute Spa's family of products. I saw Mirabella many years ago, but they were still a baby brand, and recently was reintroduced to them from Jeff Losito of Bioelements. Makeup is at my core and I love it. I believe that salons and spas are looking for complementary products to their skincare, and Bioelements works hand-in-hand with Mirabella to create amazing skin. Nothing in Mirabella is harmful to the skin, and many of the ingredients actually help support and hydrate the skin.

APJ5. How popular has it been so far?

Jai: It's amazing! We haven't even launched the product in Australia yet and we've already sold out of two shipments! So it has started better than I could ever have imagined. It seems once people get it on their skin the work is done for us! I'm so delighted and feel blessed that the industry has so warmly welcomed us. Our official launch, complete with special guest from Mirabella USA, will be at Salon Melbourne.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

For further information on Mirabella, Bioelements or Pure Inventions contact ABSOLUTE SPA 1300 262 275.

APJ3. How will Mirabella fit in with salon skincare?

Jai: As I mentioned above, I think that clients are looking for quality skincare with active ingredients, and want to leave the salon looking beautiful, even if they have just received a peel.

They are looking for cosmetic products to enhance and improve the appearance of the skin plus, of course, quality makeup for a fun way to express themselves. Mirabella likes to call them "good for the skin ingredients" and really consider what goes into their products to not only look after the skin, but to offer that wonderful luxe feel with amazing performance. In the same breath, Mirabella also looks to what is NOT in their cosmetics; hence the clean label – things like talc, alcohol, parabens, fragrances, D4 & D5 dyes are all excluded to reduce toxicity and irritation. As a result, Mirabella is great for even the most sensitive of skins.

The thing I like about Mirabella is we use the Fitzpatrick scale in the form of a quick and easy questionnaire to simply work out which foundation would work best for the client's skin. This is something a client can do in the waiting room, and then the therapist can finish the service with the correct application for the client after their salon service. It is in line with salon consultation and diagnostics – and takes the guesswork out of the selection for the client and therapist alike.

Our educational program also assists the therapist in feeling confident to recommend and use Mirabella products.

APJ4. How is it priced and are their any opening orders?

Jai: I think for the quality and performance of Mirabella it is very well priced. An example is our Skin Tint Crème Foundation which is RRP $60 for a 30ml bottle, or our Pure Press Mineral Foundation is RRP $62. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

We do have several awesome start-up deals for salons to become a Mirabella stockist. The range you choose depends on your budget and what you require – these begin at $595.

Alternatively, we also offer an industry price for those in the beauty industry who do not wish to commit to become a stockist, but would like to try the product for themself.

For further information, of course, please contact our office.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 111

riskmanagement ㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

The Hidden Dangers of

BUSINESS LOSS & PROFITABILITY

By Tina Viney

you should consider in order to optimise your risk management and protect your business against heartache and financial loss.

WHAT IS RISK? So let's look at what is risk and then look at the various areas that risk may arise and how you can evaluate, prioritise and manage it.

Whether you own, manage or are an employee of a business you are bound to encounter issues that pose risk to your clients and to your reputation. Fundamentally in the spa and beauty industry we view risk as being associated with Occupational Health and Safety Regulations. However, there are broader elements of risk that we encounter and gaining a better understanding of them can substantially contribute to a more harmonious work environment as well as a more profitable business.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

In difficult economic times we need to be prudent to identify every element that will contribute to productivity and increased profits. In fact, collectively these elements could result in making the difference as to whether our business will survive at all.

I can honestly say, whether they realise it or not, most of the enquiries we receive from the industry at our APAN office involve concerns that contribute to risk in some way or another. I can also say that I am amazed at how many businesses are totally unprotected in numerous areas against many risks and often do not realise this until they encounter a problem that they are not able to resolve – we know this by the nature of the many enquiries we receive. To help you determine your position I would like to present in this article several key areas

Risk is anything that threatens or limits your ability to achieve your goals and mission. It can be unexpected and unpredictable events such as theft, destruction of your building, losing your computer data, injury to clients due to a treatment mishap or accidents through someone slipping in your workplace. However, risk can also be as a result of staff disputes, workplace grievances and workplace disruptions due to communication problems or unclear guidelines.

HOW YOU MANAGE RISK Risk management is a process of thinking systematically about all possible risks, problems, disasters or disputes, and after identifying them, setting up procedures so before they happen they can be prevented, or correctly managed to minimise their impact.

㄰ 㤵

In ideal risk management, a prioritisation process is followed whereby the risks with the greatest loss (or impact) and the greatest probability of occurring are handled first, and risks with lower probability of occurrence and lower loss are handled in descending order. In practice the process of assessing overall risk can be difficult, and balancing resources used to mitigate between risks with a high probability of occurrence as well as high priority should be clearly defined.

㜵

㈵

APJ 112

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

Here are some examples of how we recommend you determine a priority: 1. Injury – All injuries must be classified as high priority. That means that any first aid must be applied and the individual's safety and wellbeing must be taken care of immediately. This must be followed by a full written incident report. A copy of this report must be presented to the manager and kept on file as well as reported to the business's insurance company.

as an appointment not recorded or any miscommunication, this also must be considered as a priority and a policy be put in place on how to immediately handle this, as potentially it can erode the business's reputation and damage the business financially.

INTANGIBLE RISK MANAGEMENT Knowledge risk: This is a new area that is increasingly also becoming an issue. Intangible risk management identifies a new type of a risk that has a 100% probability of occurring, but is ignored by the organisation due to a lack of identification ability. For example, when deficient knowledge is applied to a situation, a knowledge risk materialises. This may have to do with an area of lack of knowledge that a new employee may have that was not identified by management.

A comprehensive Staff Orientation program can help identify such knowledge deficiencies and an appropriate training program be put in place to bring that staff member up to the appropriate standard.

Meanwhile, until they have reached that standard they are not delegated those duties or procedures.

Many salons complain with their new staff about “learning deficiencies” and often complain because they discover them after a client mishap or complaint. It therefore pays to ensure you are fully aware of the level of expertise that your new staff can deliver, and this may require that you view them performing the various procedures they will be required to perform on your clients.

㤵 㜵

㈵

Relationship risk: Relationship risk appears when ineffective collaboration occurs or roles are not clearly defined. For example, as your business grows you may identify a staff member who has leadership capabilities and you appoint them in charge of checking that all staff members have contributed to the appropriate housekeeping duties on a daily basis. If you have delegated such a responsibility to one staff member it is important that you make this known to the rest of the staff members. Identifying the appropriate chain of command for the effective running of your business will ensure the smooth running of your operations, appropriate oversight of responsibilities and the maintenance of the necessary standards that will uphold your good reputation. It is important that staff know who is in charge to oversee the various responsibilities and required to report back to you.

HOW RISK MANAGEMENT CAN BENEFIT YOU Identifying and having risk management procedures in place can benefit your business by creating immediate value by enhancing

㄰ 㤵 㜵

KEY AREAS OF CONSIDERATION When assessing your business’s risks there are six key areas to consider. These include:

㈵

2. Disputes – If a client is upset about a staff member's conduct such

3. Staff grievances – One of the most common enquiries we receive has to do with salon owners facing a staff misunderstanding with regards to wages and the interpretation of Fair Work wage awards, terms and conditions of employment, holiday pay, duties and responsibilities. However, when communication is broken and a salon wants to dismiss a staff member, they cannot accuse them of breaches unless they have actually breached a policy. This is a very common problem. A Workplace Policy document must clearly define terms of employment and expectations.

㄰

productivity and safeguarding you from harmful and costly disruptions. On the other hand, if you choose to neglect them they can contribute to the reduction of productivity, conflict with staff, decrease in cost effectiveness, profitability, service, quality, reputation, brand value and earnings quality.

1. Money and financial handling You are in business to make money. However, the handling of money must be safeguarded against theft or misuse. Your policies should include how your money is to be stored, daily financial balancing and banking procedures. Additionally, you should check that the treatments that have been booked correlate to the monies received. If you have a computer software program ensure that each staff member is given a login code so that you can track financial activities to each operator. In that way in the event of any discrepancies you can identify who is responsible without the need for embarrassing questioning or confrontation.

2. Intellectual property All staff must be made aware that the salon clients and your database are the property of your business. There should be a policy that unless authorised, clients should not be contacted privately for services. It is now also become common practice in many businesses to implement a policy that staff that are leaving are not permitted to disclose this to their clients unless authorised by the business owner. While you cannot legally enforce this, it is also advisable to include a clause that states that in the event that a staff member leaves to set up their own business this must not be at close proximity to your business e.g. a radius of say 20 kilometres.

3. Staff employment a. Terms of employment – Make sure that your terms of employment are very clear and that you are up-to-date with the latest requirements and obligations as set out by Fair Work. Prior to employing a staff member it is important that you become familiar with their appropriate rate of pay, sick leave, holiday pay, overtime rates, etc and spell these out in writing to them. APAN works collaboratively with a law firm that specialises in Industrial Relations to assist its members. While we accept phone enquiries from our members, our policy is that we request their enquiry be sent to us also in writing. We then will also respond back in writing after we have liaised with our solicitors. In that way we assist the business by offering them an accurate interpretation of their requirements. It has not been uncommon for salons to contact Fair Work and receive one recommendation, meanwhile a staff member has contacted them and received another recommendation, causing needless disputes between staff and management. b. Contractors – In the event of contractors you will require to have in place a written agreement and I would recommend that you obtain legal advice on what are the current rules that define a contractor over an employee as heavy fines are imposed if these requirements are not met. For example if you state to a “contractor” that they are required to work certain days, perform certain duties and remain on the premises in the event that there are no clients that may constitute an employee status rather than a contractor. It pays to check the appropriate guidelines to avoid possible fines. Also, all contractors are required to obtain their own insurance and this must include treatment risk and medical malpractice e.g. both liability and indemnity. c. Workplace Policy – You can substantially minimise risk of misunderstandings if you establish clear guidelines of conduct,

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 113

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

㄰

personal appearance and dress code, duties and responsibilities and personal and professional conduct, including appropriate ways to address clients as well as what to do and who to go to in the event of a grievance. Delegated authority within an establishment needs to also be clearly set out and communicated so as to avoid any misunderstandings on who is responsible for what.

㤵 㜵

㈵

d. Treatment Policies and Procedures – To minimise further risk all treatments should have set policies and procedures as to how they are to be delivered. Thorough training should be given in this regard to ensure that the standards of operation are uniform and all staff members meet these standards, which will define your establishment and your clients will come to expect. Training should be on-going to ensure that the high standards are maintained. If you are professional you should belong to an Association or Standards Body and commit to complying with a professional Code of Ethics. This code should also be included into your staff's Policies and Procedures training to ensure uniformity of standards that not only meet your salon's expectations, but also the standards of an external industry peak body. e. Staff wellbeing – Without happy staff you do not have a business. As such it is important that while policies and procedures are uniform for everyone, you do not neglect your duty of care to get to know each staff member as individuals. Become familiar with their personal needs, family needs and identify their strengths and weaknesses. As much as possible reinforce their confidence with praise and recognition for a job well done and give them your support to pursue areas that they are passionate about and would excel in.

Leave a legacy in their life for having worked with you through the support and trust you have given them to better themselves. Do not neglect the human factor – this will not only be rewarding to you, but will also ensure you gain the best from your staff members. Happy staff members will more likely stay with you and will contribute to a more productive and successful work environment and, ultimately, business growth.

4. Occupational Health and Safety

㄰

It amazes me how many salons are not aware of their State's Occupational Health and Safety requirements or the Skin Penetration requirements. All salons and spas should have a copy of these on their premises and ensure that all staff members are orientated into how to implement them. These should also include first aid provisions and protocols. Also check with your local council on any guidelines that are specific to your region. Appropriate hygiene standards cannot be overstated. This is an area that is poorly handled and must not be tolerated. Health and hygiene procedures should not be left to the individual's interpretation, they should be clearly defined and backed up by appropriate demonstrations on the expectations.

㤵

5. Equipment 㜵

Many salons feel that equipment safety is simply a case of operating the machine correctly and keeping it clean. While these two areas are important, it is also equally important to check your devices by a qualified electrician once a year for any wear and tear.

㈵

6. Client handling In many ways your clients are your guests, so ensure that you always

make them feel welcome and special. This requires that you define the culture that you believe will meet with their expectations and differentiate you from your opposition. All staff must be trained on how to greet and welcome clients and how to finish a treatment in terms of their communication. What subjects to discuss and what subjects are taboo, follow-up procedures after a treatment and introducing clients to other services. What to do in the event of a misunderstanding or a grievance. These policies must be in place before they occur.

7. Building Your building of course will need to meet with the appropriate safety standards and be covered by insurance. Check this with your local council as well as your insurance company to ensure you are adequately covered.

PRINCIPLES OF RISK MANAGEMENT You may think that designing and establishing risk-management protocols and procedures will take time. I have to be honest it will, but once it is in place the benefits will be priceless. Your riskmanagement practices should: ! Create value – resources expended to mitigate risk should generally exceed the consequence of inaction and the gain should exceed the pain ! Be an integral part of organisational processes ! Be part of decision-making – engage your staff in identifying risk ! Explicitly address uncertainty and assumptions ! Be systematic and structured ! Be based on the best available information ! Be tailorable to the needs ! Take into account human factors ! Be transparent and inclusive ! Be dynamic, iterative and responsive to change ! Be capable of continual improvement and enhancement ! Be continually or periodically reassessed In essence, effective and concise risk-mitigation procedures will improve business performance and profitability, while minimising stress and supporting cohesive teamwork with staff and, ultimately, better client service.

If you believe you need further assistance with establishing risk-management strategies in your business contact APAN for further details on info@apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360.

㄰ 㤵 㜵

㈵

APJ 114

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵

㄰

㄰

㤵

㤵

㜵

㜵

㈵

㈵