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Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

2010

Volume 5.

捯癥 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨰㈺㐵⁐

Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS

The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ISSN: 1836-9812

Volume 5. 2010

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always beautiful forever young

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c o r r e c t i v e


A Total Concept Naturaceutical Range with Professional Treatments & Client Prescriptive Products OOur ur PPhilosophy hilosophy O Onn TThe he CClinical linical SSkincare kincare

Our Total Concept range includes: Rosacea Corrective Treatment

After

Acne Before

Acne Corrective Treatment

Pigmentation Corrective Treatment

With A

Natural Difference Range. A Natural Difference is internationally recognized as a leader in natural skincare products for over 25 years, and have developed, tested and refined a product line known today as “Naturaceuticals” that represent a marriage between pharmaceuticals and naturally sourced cosmetics to create a natural pharmaceutical hybrid range. We use higher concentrations of active ingredients such as vitamins, phyto-chemicals, enzymes, anti-oxidants, peptones, essential oils and free radical spin traps which help to influence the biological functions of the skin, by reversing sun damage and reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

Anti-Ageing Therapy Treatment Chemobrasion Peels Jessner and TCA Peels Pigmentation Before

After

Oxygen Therapy for all skins

Glycolic Polymer Peels 5%-35%

Various Enzyme Therapies with differing strengths

Ageing Before

After

A collection of unique Clinical Skincare Signature Therapy Treatments

A NATURACEUTICAL SKIN CARE RANGE

Offering Solutions with “Clinical Results” • Naturally Sourced Ingredients that are Chirally Correct for all skin types • Advanced Bio-technology & Ancient Secrets combined • No Synthetic Fragrances • No Lanolin • No Mineral Oils • No Fillers • No Petroleum • No Artificial Colours • Not Tested on Animals

A Clinical Range with High Performance and Instantly Noticeable Results.

Clinical Skincare

We invite you to experience an instant ‘Natural Difference’ treatment at this years Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference on 21-22 August 2010. To book an appointment with us, contact us on: 1800 628 999 or send your interest to ask@clinicalskincare.com.au

Stand #16’

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Repair & Restore the new way... NON-INVASIVE FRACTIONAL LASER PLATFORM Using a special Lens array that produces an intense concentration of laser energy into the micro-thermal spot (fractional spots or MTS) and produces an evenly low level heating of all the treated skin. The skin tissues will be coagulated inside the micro-thermal areas and will be deeply stimulated all over the treated area by the diffused thermal effect painlessly.

Great results treating:

Sun Spots & Uneven Discolouration: The damage caused by decades of harmful sun exposure can result in flat, uneven brown spots and patches that appear most commonly on the face, chest, hands, shoulders & arms all of which can be successfully treated without any pain or downtime. Wrinkles & Crow’s Feet around the eyes: The skin around the eyes is much more delicate & tends to age more rapidly. CLT Fractional Resurfacing works to rebuild and restore the skin naturally, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Acne Scarring: Today this treatment offers the most advanced new restoration treatment to reduce acne scars and with it the often painful memories of their teenage years. Melasma & Hyper-pigmentation: These are common disorders that typically occur as darkened pigmentation on sun-exposed facial areas among adults of darker skin types

The CLINICAL LIGHT THERAPY (CLT) Platform is the best investment that can be tailor-made to your specific requirements to incorporate Non-Ablative Resurfacing Fractional Laser and Q-Switched Nd:YAG technology plus IPL and Ablative Erbium Yag laser handpieces to perform a variety of Skin Rejuvenation and Restoration treatments for: • Lines & Wrinkle removal • Sun damage and dyschromia treatments • Collagen remodeling • Pigmented lesion removal • Acne & Surgical Scar treatments • Vascular treatments • Tattoo removal • Hair Removal plus more!

Conical lens on handpiece that creates the separated columns of light as shown in image below.

CLINIC TESTIMONIALS

Face & Shape Skin & Laser Clinic. (Melb). The CLT Fractional Laser is able to treat multiple skin conditions and all skin types. It is safe, easy and delivers remarkable results! I am delighted with its performance, and the training and services provided. I was able to meet the demands of my clients and provide a full body solution for ageing skin with no downtime or side effects. I highly recommend it!

Imagine your skin is a digital picture made up of thousands of spots. The CLT Fractional Laser treatment is able to target single skin cells by using microscopic laser columns that are smaller than the width of a hair. The precise treatment eliminates old, damaged surface cells and penetrates deep into the inner layers of the skin (dermis) to initiate and encourage the body’s own natural healing process. As healing begins, the damaged skin is replaced with fresh healthy skin and new collagen is formed deep in the subsurface layers. A full face treatment takes less than 30 minutes with up to 3 passes per visit.

Beauty-Thru-Nature Skin & Laser Clinic (Brisb). The Fractional Laser Resurfacing isn’t just for facial rejuvenation! We have been using this technology with extreme effectiveness to rejuvenate the neck, chest and hands with ease and speed. The great thing is we have been able to recover our investment within a few months! I am glad we were the first to snap up this opportunity.

www.clinicalskincare.com.au 1800 628 999

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treatments. Their insightful revelations are presented in our article “What are your clients are saying about you – Our Research Reveals.”

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Being the end of the financial year we have also included a Taxation Checklist, so please check that out on pages 89-90 to make sure you are not missing out on your deductions. Talking about deductions did you know that if you pay for your APAN membership now you can claim it in this year’s tax deductions? I therefore urge you to join or renew your membership and be also in the draw for the $20,000 Business Stimulus Package.

Editor’s Letter As you can imagine a lot of work goes into preparing a journal such as APJ so it is always encouraging and welcoming when we get phone calls and emails of thanks on articles that have been appreciated by our readers. Your feedback it very important to us, so please share with us your thoughts and what has been of benefit to you. Daily, valuable information filters through our office at APAN as members contact us for help and to share with us their thoughts and needs. Our global links allow us to capture information and bring it to your attention in a timely manner. Despite the difficult economic times both national and international predictions confirm that beauty products and services are in high demand by consumers. In fact, they are on the increase. Perhaps that has not been your experience. If this is the case then maybe you need to become familiar with how the industry is changing and what consumers now want from you. In this issue of APJ we have several excellent articles that will allow you to identify some new ways that can assist you to gain the upper hand on survival tactics. Through an APAN survey we have interviewed numerous consumers to get their comments on what they think of the salon or clinic they are attending and how they view their

We are now well and truly into winter when the skin is challenged by dryness and dehydration, so we have made sure to include some excellent articles on new advances in ingredient formulations. You will need to read these as there are major changes on the horizon that you need to familiarise yourself with. Now is the time to encourage your clients to visit you, not only for a skin renewal treatment, but also for a welldeserving time out for an hour or so of bliss as you also take care of their stress levels. Despite all the pressures, it is important that you take time out to renew your own energy levels. Aesthetics is a very rewarding profession, but we do give out a lot, so it is important to take care of your own reserves as you are valuable not only to your clients, but no doubt also to your family. I trust you will enjoy this issue of APJ. May it inspire you, motivate you and make you appreciate that you are involved in one of the most exciting industries of our times. Committed to your progress

Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer Editor – APJ

ISSN: 1836-9812

Editor Tina Viney Phone (07) 5593 0360 Fax: (07) 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney

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APJ 4

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Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney & Mark Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Qld 4218 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Produced for Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169 Print Post Approved. Circulation 5500 Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd (APAN) PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt (Education) Wendy Neely (PR & Marketing) Dr Douglas Grose (Scientific) Caroline Nelson (Business)

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain Cover: VOGUE IMAGE GROUP the property of Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Phone: 03 9821 0033 Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been or Freecall: 1800 554 545 made to ensure that all scientific and technical information Email: info@vogueimage.com.au presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. Web: www.sorisa.com However, members and readers are highly recommended to also Please also see page 8-9 seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial for further details. adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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APAN, INDUSTRY REPORTS AND NEWS

6 10-13 48-50

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH/ANTI-AGEING/INGREDIENTS

8-9

30-31

36-37 46-47 62-64 66-67 74-77 78-81 82-83 86-88 94-95

product performers

CEO’s Report Aesthetic Industry Bulletin Shifting trends in Consumer Perception of Marketing and Branding

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Always Beautiful Forever Young – Introducing a Cosmetic Revolution Are you rebuilding the skin after Chemical and Mechanical Exfoliation? Stem Cells and Skincare Formulations – The way of the future has arrived What are your clients saying about you? – Our Survey Reveals The Mind-Body Connection in Permanent Weight Loss – A Scientific Approach PART 1 The Skin/Gut Connection to Skin Health and Skin Disorders The role of Hyaluronan in skin hydration and anti-ageing results Spotlight on Products How Magnesium can assist Skin Disorders Isotretinoin – A drug not to be taken lightly Scientific News

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 16-18 20-23 24-25 25 28 34-35 70-72 84-85 89-90 91-93 96-97

The Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) – Our Strategic Difference Can you benefit from a $20,000 Business Stimulus Package? Do you know what is the Best Sounding Music in a Salon? Have you purchased your Deluxe gift and post cards for your next promotion? Member Profile Professionals and the Trade Practices Act – Dealing with Clients The Secret Revelations of a Distributor How to maximise on your best resource – Your Staff 2009-2010 Tax Return Checklist Understanding your Strengths and Limitations through Personality Profiling Business in Brief

EDUCATION, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 26-27 40-42 43 58-60 68-69

Equipment Technology – Discerning the good from the bad The Changing Face of Aesthetics – Current and Future Developments Advanced Skin Analysis How to achieve Lip Perfection The Mechanism for Repair in Wound Healing

SEMINARS EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 㜵

11-13 13 35 44 45 73

International Aesthetic Show Calendar APAN Seminar – Sydney Leadership, Learning and Growth Conference AustralAsian Aesthetics Workshop – Learning Objectives AustralAsian Aesthetics Workshop 2010 Cosmoprof Asia – Hong Kong

APJ 5

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CEO’s REPORT

Make sure that their knowledge is not more advanced than yours, and they are not bypassing you in search for answers.

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You only have to pick up a magazine to discover changes in new-generation skincare formulations that are the result of utilising new genomics information through studies into the skin’s gene expression. In just the latest issue of Women’s Weekly L’Oreal was promoting their new YOUTH CODE formula revealing the scientific advancements to their anti-ageing product, and I quote Dr Katherine Armour, Consulting Dermatologist for L’Oreal Paris, “Gene science opens a new era in skincare technology. Optimising gene expression will make your skin look younger and rejuvenated”.

CTI PRA TION

A

DV

E I S O R Y N ARE YOU GETTING THE HELP YOU NEED?

I believe that this will be the single most important educational event of the year and if you have not booked your ticket I urge you to do so. The information that will be presented at this workshop with be of the highest calibre and will raise your knowledge and prepare you for greater things ahead. You will find further details on pages 44-45 in this journal, so please take a few moments to read them and give attending this event your serious consideration.

CONSUMER PRODUCTS ARE CATCHING UP Despite the global financial crisis our industry is never short of new developments. Statistics support the fact that people are continuing to invest in looking and feeling good and the global predictions are that the beauty industry is still on the constant path to growth. However, what we need to understand is that we still have to make some changes if we are to survive as consumers are asking a lot more questions before handing over their money. We need to move with the times, increase our education and communicate the value of our services with greater clarity, knowledge and conviction if we want to retain and grow our client base. ㄰

At our APAN office we regularly get enquiries from consumers who are questioning the integrity of a treatment or technology. Some are finding that their beauty therapist is not giving them sufficient information or answering their questions to their satisfaction. This should not be so. Your clients can gain information from consumer magazines, the Internet or department stores, but they should be coming to you for the truth. All this points to the fact that clients are becoming more information savvy and are expecting a higher level of knowledge from their therapists.

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ORK

So much is happening here at APAN’s head office with tickets selling fast for the AustralAsian Aesthetics Workshop – Building Your Aesthetic Anti-Ageing Clinic or Medispa, which will be staged in Melbourne in conjunction of the A5M Medical Conference.

TW

S

Further in the same magazine Lancome stated “Youth is in your genes. Reactivate it”. They were promoting their new Genifique Youth Activator. Direct marketing company Nuskin launched their anti-ageing Ageloc Future Serum, which is the result of years of research and targets skin to address the cells’ genetic expression. They claim they have identified what they call the skin’s youth gene clusters, which are targeted with their products and infused with a hand-held galvanic device, which they believe will revolutionise the results clients can now expect from their skincare. Where do you stand in all of this? Are you up-to-date with what is going on? What are you offering your clients that is superior to these products? Food for thought no doubt!

S ER

Dear Colleagues and Friends

STHETI AE C

As I talk to suppliers it is not uncommon to hear that several salons are struggling and considering closing their doors. I can honestly say that none of our members are in that league. This is because they have wisely chosen to belong to an organisation that can give them the support they need and guide them through difficult times. I have yet to speak to someone who was struggling without giving them one new idea that could turn things around for them. It is very difficult when you are busy working in your salon or business to become aware of the changes happening in our industry and the options they bring to you. There should be someone you can turn to who can take care of this, offering you objective advice and support. APAN is well connected globally and each morning we receive numerous emails on important information from around the world as well as from Local and Federal Government. We make this information accessible to our members through the Member’s Only CEO Blog as well as through regular emails. Furthermore, we have helped numerous members who phone or email us with their queries. Do you belong to APAN and would you benefit from the provisions available to you?

COMPANY PROFILE We believe before joining any organisation you need to consider several issues - its values, mission and reputation. Its governance and accountability strategies, the quality and quantity of Member benefits and the calibre of support and the depth of knowledge it can provide you with. To assist you with these assessments we have presented a comprehensive article on APAN on pages 16-18.

A FINAL WORD In closing, I would like to encourage you all to believe in your dreams and invest in whatever you need to make them happen. You may need to make some changes or some adjustments on how you are going to reach them, but don’t give up on them. Seek help from those you respect – an objective opinion can make all the difference in helping you identify your course of action. And of course, don’t forget that APAN is here for you – we are committed to your progress.

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Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

APJ 6

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IMPACT

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The alternative to Lipo-Suction that works at the Speed of Sound

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The Sorisa IMPACT is the latest advancement in technology that offers impressive results on localised areas of fat, reduction of cellulite and skin laxity. Sorisa uses an impressive 40KHz function cutting edge ultrasound technology delivered through a cavitation technique, which combines with electroporation to multiply the results of the procedure, redefine and sculpture the figure and diminish the appearance of cellulite and localised areas of fat. With IMPACT you will gain true results: ! Destruction of fat cell membrane ! Improve cellular metabolism ! Release deposits from fat cell walls ! Effective removal of toxins and wastes ! Increase absorption of nutrients

Say goodbye to localised fat

Call VOGUE IMAGE GROUP NOW at 1800 55 45 45

癯摵攠業慧攠䥍偁䍔⁡ 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲㐺㌹⁐


new technology ㄰

The challenge however, is not whether a product uses peptide technology, but more importantly, how the formula is put together that allows it to effectively target wrinkles and diminish them.

Always Beautiful Forever Young Introducing a Cosmetic Revolution Despite difficult economic times a staggering 1.5 million injections of Botox and similar drugs were given to image-conscious Australians last year as the cosmetic surgery industry hit an all-time high. This is a 30 per cent jump on the previous year according to several reports, while the Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australasia claimed $448.5 million was spent on minimally invasive and non-invasive procedures in 2009 alone. Media coverage of the boom of these procedures refers to it as an “epidemic”. Meanwhile, as dermal filler treatments are becoming a routine for many, so are consumer complaints on the rise. In Queensland, a major newspaper who sent journalists to investigate this trend reported several clinics were eager to recommend risky and expensive cosmetic procedures, including Botox, to one of their undercover reporters who was just 24. An expert who examined the recommendations condemned some of the advice offered to the young woman. "It's frightening what some people are willing to do to a perfectly acceptable face," said Brisbane-based plastic surgeon Paul Belt.

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Official complaints about cosmetic surgery procedures have tripled in the past three years as doctors tell of a sharp rise in "Mr and Mrs Average" clients. Even though the intention of this article is not to discuss the ethics of this issue, two things are becoming quite apparent. First, there is a growing market for anti-ageing procedures driven by the wrinkle-free obsession of consumers. Second, we need to learn from these incidences and be cautious to maintain our professionalism and avoid exploiting this market with unrealistic promises or oversupply.

SKINCARE ADVANCES

In view of this boom, skincare companies are investigating ingredients that can rival muscle relaxant injections to treat wrinkles.

A muscle relaxant, used through injectables, is a diluted purified protein that relaxes the overactive facial muscles that create crow’s feet, frown lines, forehead lines and other wrinkles in order to leave the skin looking smooth and supple, while helping fine lines to fade and disappear. Muscle relaxants are currently the most popular cosmetic treatment in the world, so its stands to reason that skincare companies are investigating how they can rival these proteins. The closest thing we have as far as skincare ingredients are concerned, come from the peptide technology. Peptides are compounds, which are formed by linking one or more amino acids with a covalent bond. These compounds are classified as polymers, because they typically link together in long chains. All animals have peptides in their body, and in a way, peptides are one of the building blocks of life. When a peptide chain gets especially long, it turns into a protein. Peptides and proteins represent a wide world of possibilities, and many molecular biologists spend years researching the functions of single peptides and proteins to learn more about how the body works. In skincare, a great deal of research has identified the value of hexapeptides and pentapeptides for their ability to mimic the action of muscle relaxant capabilities of injectable proteins. Clinical results into peptides are very encouraging. One study demonstrated that palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 was as effective as retinol in repairing sundamaged skin, but was devoid of side-effects associated with retinol. Most other studies also showed improvement in various objective and subjective measures of wrinkles. No side effects have been reported. The challenge however, is not whether a product uses peptide technology, but more importantly, how the formula is put together that allows it to effectively target wrinkles and diminish them.

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APJ 8

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CORRECTIVE BY SKEYNDOR Just released in Australia is CORRECTIVE – a new skincare range developed by Skeyndor that has achieved a breakthrough in peptide technology. After three years of research on more than 25 tested substances, and reviewing approximately 200 combinations of ingredients, the Skeyndor laboratory has resulted in developing a truly remarkable compound that was able to overcome some of the limitations of passed formulations.

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The CORRECTIVE skincare range is scientifically formulated to treat deep wrinkles and expression lines both quickly and effectively. It combines up to nine active substances of proven efficacy to assist in the density of internal tissue, plump up the skin to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and discourage the formation of further lines. The action of lifting peptides formulated through state-of-the-art technology effectively target pre and post-synaptic activity relaxing wrinkles, even the deeper ones, resulting in restored skin firmness and a rejuvenated youthful appearance. The problem with proteins and peptides is that they have large molecular structures that cannot penetrate the skin to target skin wrinkles at their origin. This barrier is formed by the skin itself to prevent topically applied substances entering the skin, and so aesthetic medicine needed to identify a way to overcome this barrier, which it has successfully achieved.

CORRECTIVE offers an effective synergistic home treatment range consisting of four products: ! Instant wrinkle filler cream – This cream helps to plump up the skin “filling in” deep wrinkles and softening expression lines on the face. The formula’s actives assist in supporting tissue density, while ingredients such as hyaluronic acid reinforce the skin’s hydration levels and lift the skin.

! Eye expression line eraser – An excellent formulation to relax the expression lines around the eye contour. Containing a combination of skin-plumping and toning agents, which produce an immediate skin lifting effect reducing expression lines.

! Expression line serum – This serum will smooth even deep wrinkles and expression lines on the face. It contains neuralinhibiting agents and skin lifting peptides with pre and postsynaptic activity that reinforce the skin’s tone and elasticity.

! Instant lip contour filler – This is a wonderful product for increasing skin volume and relaxing deep wrinkles around the lip contour. It contains skin-lifting agents and ingredients to support skin density and plumpness. Its creamy texture nourishes and hydrates the delicate skin around the lips, providing them with the necessary protection and comfort.

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SKEYNDOR CORRECTIVE also offers an effective three-step salon treatment procedure to combat the appearance of wrinkles with great success.

CORRECTIVE BY SKEYNDOR – HOME CARE TREATMENT PRODUCTS AND CLINICAL RESULTS An independent blind clinical trial was conducted on ten volunteers using CORRECTIVE homecare treatment products. The candidates were between 40 and 55 years of age. The trial was conducted over 28 days and the product was applied twice a day. The candidates were under dermatological and ophthalmological control. Their results were as follows: ! Anti-wrinkle efficiency noted in 90% of the volunteers. ! Reduction between 33% and 52% in the total surface area of wrinkles. ! Reduction of between 33% and 45% in the number of wrinkles. ! Reduction of between 29% and 49% in the total length of the wrinkles. ! Reduction of between 28% and 43% in the deep of wrinkles.

SELF ASSESSMENT Each candidate was asked to commend on their perceived improvement. Here is what they had to say: ! Reduction of wrinkles and more radiant skin 82%. ! Younger-looking skin, soft and fine 82%. ! Softened expression lines. Skin looked denser and firmer 73%.

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Together, these four products provide powerful lifting, plumping and skin anti-ageing benefits for home care use. They deliver an immediate effect, while on-going improvement is achieved with continued use.

For further details phone Vogue Image Group on 1800 545 554.

APJ 9

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN

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This section will present the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

Success is that old A, B, C, Ability, Breaks and Courage.

Charles Luckman

GRAPEFRUIT AROMA AND ITS EFFECT ON APPETITE

Hot Ingredient: Nutmeg Polyphenol It is important to know about up-and-coming personal care ingredients, so you are able to best answer your clients’ questions and know what works and what doesn’t. Here is a spice that is proving effective in supporting skin adiposity that may be of interest. The Provital Group has designed an ingredient to fill wrinkles and expression lines with an active derived from nutmeg. Noline (INCI: Macelignan) is said to increase the volume of the adipose tissue underneath the skin, filling wrinkles and expression lines that are characteristic of ageing. The active also reportedly increases the development of new adipose cells (adipogenisis) and the size of lipid vacuoles in the adipose tissue.

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According to the company, mature skin does not have the same vitality or repair capacity as younger skin and adipose tissue plays an important role since it contains pre-adipocytes, the precursor cells of adipocytes. Mature skin is said to have the same number of pre-adipocytes as younger skin; however, their maturing capacity is diminished. The company therefore sourced macelignan, a polyphenol of nutmeg seeds, to design an ingredient that acts on the cell differentiation process of the adipose tissue. Through a receptor of skin fatty cells, the macelignan is reported to activate and increase adipogenesis. The active is recommended for: anti-ageing serums, treatments for mature skin, eye and lip contour products, anti-ageing hand treatments and facial firming products.

In order to validate, or perhaps disprove, the belief that consuming grapefruit is a sensible weight loss strategy, researchers at Vanderbilt University Medical Center in the US have launched a two-year, three-arm randomised controlled study. Their aim is to see just how consumption of grapefruit and grapefruit juice effects appetite, dietary intake, weight loss and body composition. Meanwhile, preliminary studies in animals show that the scent of grapefruit oil does reduce appetite according to Dr Mehmet Oz, coauthor of You: On a Diet. “Rats exposed to the cent for 15 minutes three times a week enjoyed the effect,” says Dr Oz. It would appear that the benefits to weight loss may be due to the grapefruit oil’s effect on a liver enzyme. This may also explain why grapefruit oils is also beneficial as a cellulite essential oil.

Seaweed and wrinkle prevention Phytessence Wakame is a type of seaweed usually used by the Japanese. If you like sushi, you might have heard of this ingredient already. Studies have confirmed that this seaweed has many health benefits. Now research has discovered its unique ability to promote younger-looking skin. This is thanks to its ability to protect our hyaluronic acid content from the harmful effects of some enzymes populating inside our body. It achieves this through its abundance of minerals that are all-importing in supporting tissue and skin hydration. Hyaluronic acid is part and parcel of a younger-looking skin. While abundantly found in young skin, it progressively diminishes as we age. As a result of this research several cosmetics companies are now including it in their skincare.

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APJ 10

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar

Produced by Terry Everitt, Aesthetic Educators 㜵

August 22 A u s t r a l A s i a n A e s t h e t i c s Workshop Sofitel Hotel Melbourne T: 03 98130439 F: 03 98130649 Email: enquiries@a5m.net

“Members’ Only” Blog for IMPORTANT NEWS If you are an APAN Member you will find valuable information, government news, business tips and other important industry information on the APAN Members’ Only Blog. We usually post information every two to three days so make sure you access it from our website: www.apanetwork.com. You will also find all the back issues there to catch up on any news you have missed out. This service is only available for financial members of APAN. If you are having any problems accessing these pages send us an email or phone APAN on 07 5593 0360.

Aug 21-22 4 t h A n n u a l A n t i - A g i n g & Aesthetic Medicine Conference Sofitel Hotel Melbourne T: 03 98130439 F: 03 98130649 Email: enquiries@a5m.net Sept 4-5

Sydney Int. Spa & Beauty expo Sydney Convention & Exhibition Centre T: 02 9422 2535 Email:enquiries@internationalbea utyexpo.com.au

Sept 16-17 Natural Health Conference and Expo Aotea Centre, Auckland, NZ T: 1300 789 845 (Australia) F: 02 9660 9786 Email:info@naturalhealthexpo.co m.au

Accredited qualifications in Dermal Therapy and Cosmetic Nursing arrives in Queensland The Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) is pleased to announce its new partnership with GrayClay in Qld. AACDS is based in Perth WA and delivers accredited qualifications in cosmetic nursing and dermal therapies infiltrating throughout Australia and overseas via its online eductional program with practical training in dermal therapies and injectable procedures offered in WA, NSW and now in Qld. April Jorgensen the Director of AACDS, reported that a large portion of their students come from Queensland and they have to travel to Sydney to complete their practical training, while other students wish to study on campus rather than online. This opened the opportunity for AACDS to partner with Jacqueline Clayton and Sue Graham from GrayClay who will be delivering both theory and practical competencies on the Gold Coast in Queensland.

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Jacqueline Clayton and Sue Graham are highly qualified nurses with extensive experience in cosmetic nursing. They have both delivered educational courses in medical aesthetics and injectables since 2008. GrayClay will deliver the core practical competencies in the Vocational Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Nursing and the Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science. For further information about AACDS courses or course delivery in Qld please call 08 9382 4788 or email enquiries@aacds.edu.au

Beauty Feet Receives International Patent Beauty Feet is Japan’s No.1 best selling foot care product designed to remove callus layers caused by excessive day-to-day friction. Beauty Feet is considered as the most effective and hassle-free way to restore the feets youthful appearance and prevents build-up without scrubbing, filing, sanding, scraping or continuously applying food balm. BeautyWise Pty Ltd, the Australian distributors of Beauty Feet is pleased to announce that the product has succeeded in been granted an international patent No. 2009101219 giving Beauty Feet a competitive advantage and differentiating it over inferior products. To contact BeautyWise Phone 07 3012 9494 or Email: enquiries@beautwise.com.au

Sept 25-27 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, California, USA T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com Oct 3-4

Esthetic and Spa Trade Show Palais des congrès de Montréal Montreal (QC) Canada T: + 450 434-4738, F: + 450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

Oct 10-11 Professional Beauty Manchester Manchester Central, England. T: +44 (0) 20 7728 4298 Email: marilyn.foyle@emap.com Oct 17-18 Esthetically Yours Trade Show Convention Centre Downtown Metro Toronto, Toronto(ON) Canada T: + 450 434-4738, F: + 450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com Oct 17-18 Premier Birmingham Birmingham Jefferson Convention Center, Birmingham, Alabama, US T: + 1 407.265.3131 F: +1 407.265.3134

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Oct 18-19 Esthetic and Spa Trade Show Stampede Park, Calgary(AB) Canada T: + 450 434-4738, F: + 450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

APJ 11


Upgrade your qualification through government-approved training in Laser and IPL

Government Accredited and Nationally Recognised Training Courses (Registration No. 20136)

TRAINING DATES

Laser Science and Safe Use of Laser and Intense Pulsed Light (21711VIC): July 6 July 27

(Approved Laser Certificate is issued)

For the Study Section 1 of Graduate Certificate in Clinical Laser Therapy for Musculo-skeletal, Pain and Wound Healing: July 6 and 7 For Study Section1 of Graduate Certificate in Clinical Laser Therapy and Intense Pulsed Light for Dermatology and Scar Repair (21712VIC) July 27, 28 and 29

For further details or to register phone 1300 887 344 email: info@ailt.com.au www.ailt.com.au

FOR SALE Almost new – Diamond Fusion Deluxe Microdermabrasion

Australasian College Broadway joins APAN Always on the cutting edge of educational development the Australasian College Broadway in Sydney is a thriving Registered Training Organisation that is considered the benchmark institution for hair, nails, make-up and beauty and one of the leading and most progressive training colleges in Australia. The College was the first private Registered Training Organisation (RTO) to be awarded the NSW Training Provider of the Year (2000) and is a member of the Australian Council for Private Education and Training (ACPET). Serviced by an extensive staff of over 80 teaching and administration personnel, the College boast over 900 both national and international students across various disciplines. The Australasian College - Broadway offers Australian and international students with the opportunity to gain world-class training in a range of hair, nails and beauty qualifications, opening the door to an exciting career in the personal services sector. At a recent student intake 110 beauty therapy students joined as APAN members, while the College’s principal Maureen Houssein-Mustafa joined as a Corporate Member of the organisation.

We have amalgamated two clinics and no longer require a crystal microdermabrasion machine that was purchased in August 2009. The Diamond Fusion has: ! Double motor ! 2-way switching system ! 4 autoclavable bottles ! Dual control hand piece ! Dual air-flow

APAN’s Chief Executive Officer Tina Viney presented to the students an induction lecture on the value and benefits of membership to the organisation and wished them every success in their new career path. The Australasian College Broadway also provides educational pathways for higher learning with articulation opportunities to university degree qualifications. “We value our alignment with such a progressive establishment and we will give it all the support we can as we recognised the importance of its contribution to the advancement of aesthetics,” Tina Viney said.

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The device is in excellent condition and is great value. Purchased for $16,900 we are willing to sell for $8,900. We can arrange delivery to interstate buyer. Contact Marnie 0412 951 592 or 03 97702888 Email: info@harmarniebodyclinic.com.au

For further information on the Australasian College Broadway phone 02 9571 8288, email info@australasiancollege.com.au or visit www.australasiancollege.com.au

APJ 12

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APAN SEMINAR – SYDNEY Discover the Power of Personality Profiling for better Staff performance and Client Loyalty PRESENTING: Business Coach and Human Strategist Phillip Fernandez HOSTED BY: Good Looking Beauty APAN NSW Representative COST: $30 DATE: Monday 9th August 2010 TIME: 6.30-8.00pm. APAN Members attending can receive a 90-minute consultation for $149 valued at $500. A door prize valued at $500 will also be presented. In this lecture Phillip will teach you how to better understand others through a proven Personality Profiling tool that will allow you to gain greater insight into how to improve communication and anticipate responses both with staff members and clients.

Phillip Fernandez is the Director of Wizard Business Consulting and holds qualifications in both Human Resource Management and Business. He has over 25 years experience in senior management roles within the personal services industry in Australia and overseas. He currently consults across a variety of retail, wholesale/ distribution and service-based industries. Phillip acts as a coach, adviser, counsellor and mentor to businesses and delivers best practice in the areas of Human Resources, Workplace Communication, Employee Motivation and Empowerment, Business Culture and Management Performance

A new product was recently launched with the surprising heating ingredient of capsaicin found in peppers to treat acne. ThermaSkin spray is an all-natural product with no added synthetic ingredients that can dry skin and cause side effects generally associated with medicated pimple products. ThermaSkin also stops itching and irritation related to a variety of common skin conditions including dermatitis, dry skin, eczema, psoriasis and even rosacea.

Many studies show capsaicin is highly effective for relieving adverse skin conditions. Capsaicin promotes topical circulation and reduces inflammation, but it’s also a powerful antimicrobial that kills a variety of bacteria. Because of its effectiveness, the popularity of capsaicin is gaining speed among the most prominent medical professionals. Dr. Nicholas Perricone features capsaicin in his top ten natural superfoods, and Dr. Mehmet Oz, frequently features capsaicin on his popular television show as a remedy for a host of common ailments. While the main ingredient in ThermaSkin is capsaicin, the manufacturer also touts additional skin care benefits from a list of other proven ingredients.

Massage found to easy bereavement 㤵 㜵

A Swedish research team conducted a study included 18 people, aged 34 to 78, who’d just lost a relative to cancer. They were offered a 25-minute hand or foot massage once a week for eight weeks and could choose whether to have their massages at home, work, or in a hospital.

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(Continued)

Oct 24-25 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Pennsylvania Convention Center Philadelphia, Pennsylvania T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com Oct 25-27

Japan West INTEX Osaka Nanko Cosmo Square, Osaka, Japan T: +49 69 75 75-0 F: +49 69 75 75-64 33 Email:beautyworld@messefrankfu rst.com

Oct 29

Baltic Beauty World 2010 CIDESCO Lativa, Riga, Latvia. T:+371 228 474 74 F:+371 731 33 59 Email: info@kosmetikasskola.lv

Nov 6-7

Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Broward County Convention Center Fort Lauderdale, Florida, USA T: +1 203-383-0516 F: +1 212-895-8209 Email: dwaltersdorf@questex.com

To book phone Good Looking Beauty 02 9894 8068

This natural skin repair spray is guaranteed to make acne disappear in days thanks to

International Aesthetic Show Calendar

Strategies.

capsaicin, the essence of hot peppers. ThermaSkin uses a patent pending combination of capsaicin and caffeine to increase topical blood flow and promote healing. Capsaicin is also a proven anti-microbial that kills the bacteria that causes acne without any burn. The company is so confident of their product that they are offering a free challenge to acne sufferers everywhere.

Natural Pepper Remedy proves helpful for Acne

A fun - and must attend seminar for all!

Nov 10-12 Cosmoprof Asia 1 Harbour Road Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel : +39 02 796 420 Fax : +39 02 795 036 E-mail : sogecos@cosmoprof.com Nov 13-15 CIDESCO Italy National Congress – Rome, Italy. T: +39 392 980 8048 F: +39 532 171 2001 Email: info@cidesco.it Nov 15-18 ISPA Gayloard National Resort & Conference Centre Washington DC, USA T: +1 859 226-4326 F: +1 859 226-4445 Email: ispa@ispastaff.com Dec 9-11

American Academy of AntiAging Medicine Las Vegas, NV, USA T: +1-561-997-0112 F:+1-561-997-0287 Email: info@a4m.com

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Nine participants chose foot massage, eight chose hand massage, and one had both types of massages. Only three had previously received a soft-tissue massage.

“Soft-tissue massage is gentle, but firm. This activates touch receptors, which then release oxytocin, a hormone known for its positive effects on well-being and relaxation,” studylead author Dr. Berit S. Cronfalk, of the palliative care provider Stockholms Sjukhem Foundation, said in a news release. Those involved reported the massages helped them to balance their need to grieve with their need to move on.

APJ 13

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POST-GRADUATE TRAINING

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Meeting the need for POST-GRADUATE Education and Skills Shortage

by Ilse Taumberger Principal of Fuss Beauty College In recent times we hear many complaints from salon owners about how business is quiet and for this they blame the global financial crises. Meanwhile, others businesses are booming and making a great income. So why is this so and what sets those who are succeeding apart from the others?

The answer to this question is twofold. The first one is diversity – investing in expanding the services they are offering so that they can capture an additional market share of potential clients. The second reason is that these salons are investing in upgrading their skills to include more advanced procedures and treatment results and give their clients a good reason why they should continue to come to them. When times are tough it is not appropriate to retrieve in fear, in fact unless you set out to provide more, you will most likely lose the clients you already have. I have always been fascinated by the changes occurring in our industry – I even remember the days when strip wax was first introduced several years ago. Each year we are seeing continued advancements, and progressively the possibility of what can be achieved in a modern salon or clinic through more sophisticated technologies is constantly on the increase. However, to effectively introduce these and maximise your results from your investment correct training is needed as well as qualifications. This is now required by the consumer and demanded by insurance companies, especially if they are confronted with a claim.

Advanced modalities/techniques are rapidly becoming popular with customer demand and fortunately these new advanced treatment options are available to the professional beauty therapist.

EMPLOYEES’ RESPONSIBILITY

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Investing in training for yourself and for your staff is an essential part for business growth and prosperity. The same applies to a therapist looking to gain a good employment position. Industry feedback confirms that it is difficult to get a job unless you are adequately trained. Today salons are less willing to spend money on advanced training because of staff turnovers. It should be up to the individual therapist to invest in their on-going training, ensuring they are employable in a more competitive market.

To meet this demand, Fuss offers training courses in:

! ! ! ! ! !

Advanced peels Laser technology Tattoo removal Microdermabrasion Fractional laser therapies Micro skin needling.

As we all know, in the past few years pulsed light systems and lasers have become popular and almost a necessity for a beauty salon. Many clinics are now specialising in hair reduction only and there seems to be a point of saturation. As a whole, however, the industry is still growing and clients are demanding the latest in treatments and technology. Other feedback we are getting is that salons and individuals are considering investing in IPL or laser, but unsure of the technology and cost. In addition to our already popular course in IPL/laser hair reduction and skin rejuvenation we are now offering additional training and experience within our laser-clinic environment. This offers people the opportunity to gain their experience if they don’t have the machines available at the time of training. This training environment offers two advantages: ! It gives a student further experience in the use of these technologies, thus giving them an additional edge when going for interviews ! It gives the salon owner valuable insight as to how this technology operates prior to purchasing their own device.

POST-GRADUATE EDUCATION AND TRAINING As a training organisation, Fuss College is excited in expanding into the direction of Post-graduate education for an ever-evolving industry. This ensures that trained professionals now have the opportunity to advance their qualifications and skills. Courses are available for beauty therapists or nurses who work or wish to work in an aesthetic clinic or salon. Our courses will ensure that you will gain new skills and the confidence to be the best you can be and continue to be in high demand.

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If you would like further information contact FUSS BEAUTY COLLEGE on 02 9326 2211.

APJ 14

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Laser and Radio Frequency Technology Skin Care by Ericson Laboratoire: • A non-invasive method that gives long-lasting results • 14 different cos-medical ranges of skincare products to meet the needs of every skin type. • Ericson Laboratoire treats problematic skin from the root of the problem • Recommended by doctors to use Pre and Post surgery • Specially design formulas from France

Fractional Laser and Alexandrite Hair Remover in one machine by Quanta System: • Fractional laser non ablative skin resurfacing • Alexandrite laser for hair removal • Q-switched laser for pigmented lesions and tattoo removal • Skin rejuvenation • Wrinkles, scars, melasma, pigmented lesions, dyschromia

Radio Frequency by Pollogen The most advanced Radio Frequency solution for facial & body contouring • Facial contouring • Skin tightening • Body sculpting • Cellulite reduction • Stretch marks reduction

Ph 1300 25 70 20 www.lpgtherapy.com.au


about apan ㄰

AD

CTITIO NE PRA

ORK

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S

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AESTHETIC

VISORY NE

The Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) Our Strategic Difference APAN is a membership-based organisation established to service the Aesthetics industry in new and more flexible ways. We have listened to your needs and are giving you what you have requested in a more specialised manner including: ! Expert Advice and Consulting Services available and accessible to you 9am-5pm five days a week ! Comprehensive mentoring from the industry’s leading experts ! More Member benefits ! Mentoring services – an in-depth expert service including report and letter writing to support your needs in a comprehensive manner ! Corporate Packages – Standards and Government Compliance documents ! Stronger networking opportunities ! A committed industry voice with Government and Regulatory Bodies The chief aim of APAN is to redefine industry standards and provide a strong support structure to practitioners and businesses through a new and contemporary organisational model. APAN is using modern tools and methods with a focus on improving communications between ㄰

stakeholders for business growth and a sustainable future. APAN maintains industry relevance through the various feedback mechanisms to ensure it remains in touch with industry needs. The organisation has also appointed a NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL that will be responsible to offer recommendations and develop implementation models on a corporate level. The APAN NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL consists of national and international leaders across various specialists’ fields of business, government and professional operations. Through industry research it has become apparent that many businesses and practitioners are seeking a personalised approach to consultation and mentoring from experts when they encounter problems. They need help and support in identifying solutions for their work and their businesses in order to move forward. APAN has been set up to help businesses and individuals gain the support they need quickly and efficiently through a comprehensive Mentoring/Consultation service available to its members.

OUR VISION APAN’s vision is to break new ground and open communication and

John R. Fergusson

APJ 16

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Bill Anton

Vanessa Kirkham

Gill Fish

Terry Everitt


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educational pathways that will support the credibility and advancement of aesthetic practices as a credible and valuable profession for the wellbeing of its consumers. APAN will achieve its mission by liaising and negotiating with key stakeholders and explore stronger links with: ! Government bodies for the continued development of educational excellence for the industry. ! Regulatory bodies for the appropriate licensing of certain modalities for their safe practice. ! Universities to provide educational pathways that will incorporate the necessary units to empower aesthetics practitioners with higher learning so that they can bring a new level of credibility to the services they provide. ! Post-Graduate Studies – Identify and profile on-going education for the continued advancement and professional development of the aesthetics industry. ! Liaise with the Media to profile the industry’s advancements and achievements. ! Establish strong networking links both within the industry and with consumers that will support business growth. ! Pursue strategic alliances with allied health profession groups and medical groups for accurate information exchange, while exploring networking opportunities between the various groups.

OUR MISSION AND PURPOSE

OUR VALUES ! To develop strong networks on a foundation of integrity and trust ! Define and promote ethical practices ! Foster a culture of higher learning to elevate the profession ! Encourage a commitment to excellence and innovation ! Foster optimism and passion ! Enrich lives through credible aesthetics and wellness solutions ! Belief in people and bringing out the very best in them APAN STRATEGIC ALLIANCE PARTNERS Through careful due-diligence research APAN has established a strategic alliance with 10 organisations who are offering APAN members credible products and services. Our mandate is to bring to our members tangible benefits to support their professional development and businesses at the best possible prices. Below is a list of our Members’ Strategic Alliance Partners:

our members discounts to their Conferences.

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ANZ Bank

– is committed to helping Small Business Customers getoff-the-ground, grow and thrive. APAN members can phone 1800 689 765 for a free Business Planning CD. A series of free on-line market-leading educational courses and tools are available to help grow your skills and knowledge. To find out more and to register visit www.thebhub.com.au

Care Super

– offering an “industry only” superannuation fund with incredibly low fees and excellent returns for your superannuation needs. Care Super has held meetings with APAN to determine the best possible services for our members. Phone 1300 360 149.

The Sparrow Group – Beauty industry specific insurance needs. We have negotiated with Sue Sparrow for all members who join APAN to receive a comprehensive personalised insurance review consultation valued at $190. Phone (07) 5502 8326.

Membersfirst

For members of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) to be respected as true experts by the public and recognised as the most competent, progressive and professional aesthetics practitioners in the nation.

AustralAsian Academy of AntiAgeing Medicine (A5M) – offering

They have also developed an Anti-Ageing Certification Program for aesthetic and allied health professionals. Phone (03) 9813 0439.

– This is a credible financial institution that has committed to helping our members with financial loans, mortgage restructuring, equipment leasing and financial planning. They have numerous offices across Australia to assist you quickly and efficiently. Phone (03) 8888 6000.

Commonwealth Bank – The Commonwealth Bank has given us an excellent corporate rate for our members to access credit card facilities at a reduced interest rate. This is serviced through EMS – Eftpos Merchant Services, in conjunction with the Commonwealth Bank, to provide quality service with eftpos and merchant banking needs. Phone 1300 791 114.

Marsh

– In consultation with APAN Marsh has identified members’ needs so that they can provide quality insurance options. Phone (07) 3115 4555.

4CP Promotional Products and Graphic Design – One of Australia’s most efficient and costeffective providers of quality marketing and promotional products, which they

Kathleen Begley

Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

Dr Douglas Gross

Caroline Nelson

Wendy Neely

APJ 17

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Brand New Solutions – Providing Social Media network packages for businesses with Special rates for APAN Members. Brand New Solutions is also considered as Australia’s leading AntiAgeing PR and Marketing specialists, providing branding and business-building solutions. Phone (02) 8356 9595.

Livingstone International

ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL John R. Fergusson – Dip Business Management Expertise: Organisational Structure, Networking and Marketing

Bill Anton – Bsc. (Hons), PhD ABAARM, AACNEM Chairman of the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine Expertise: Anti-Ageing Medicine/Organisational Structure

Vanessa Kirkham – Bachelor of Accounting Expertise: Accounting and Financial Control

Gill Fish – - Director of Brand New Solutions Expertise: PR, Branding and Social Media

Terry Everitt – Bachelor of HSc (Aesthetic) Director of Aesthetic Educators Expertise: International Aesthetics Educator Legislative Compliance Auditor

APAN can only achieve its mission through industry support. It is investing a great deal of time and money to ensure it can offer the industry the very best. To be able to access the full spectrum of benefits and savings you will need to be a Financial CTITIO NE PRA Member. By joining S you are also helping to strengthen APAN in its AD VISO RY NE task as a collective AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS industry voice that can ADVISORY NETWORK PTY LTD represent you with government and regulatory bodies to support your interest. Joining as a Financial Member will empower us to continue to support you.

APAN

RS

– Offering one of Australia’s broadest range of quality hygiene and healthcare products for the aesthetic, dental, medical, schools and hairdressing industry. Special offers for APAN members. Phone 1300 302 602.

ORK

REASONS TO JOIN APAN

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will personalise with your logo and contact details at special members’ prices. Phone (07) 5442 3341.

AESTHETIC

ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

If you are thinking of joining as a member of APAN or renewing your membership here are some good reasons why: ! Join now and be in the draw for a $20,000 Business Stimulus Package of products and services. ! Prompt access of information and help from the Aesthetic industry’s best and most experienced professionals ! Get an immediate tax deduction. By joining now you can submit your Membership Fee in this year’s tax return and gain an immediate tax benefit ! Gain discounts for seminars, products and services ! Ensure you receive 12 months’ supply of APJ Journal ! Save money through our Strategic Alliance Services ! Receive the aesthetic industry’s best Code of Ethics ! Receive a Certificate and membership card ! Be included in APAN’s database for client referral and to receive newsletters ! Access to Members’ Only Blog for the latest important information. ! Gain recognition and greater respect by the public ! Use your APAN Membership Logo on your advertising, business cards and brochures.

Kathleen Begley – Bachelor of Business Currently studying for Bachelor of Law Expertise: Organisational Structure and Policy writing

Maureen Houssein-Mustafa Director of Australasian College Broadway Expertise: Entrepreneur/Marketing and Business strategies

APJ – Aesthetics Practitioners Journal JOURNAL ADVISORY BOARD

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Dr Douglas Gross

Caroline Nelson

Scientific content

Business features

Terry Everitt

Wendy Neely

Educational feature articles

PR and Marketing

WHO CAN JOIN APAN? Membership is open to aesthetic therapists, nurses, aesthetic medical and healthcare practitioners, salon and spa owners, supply companies, service providers such as marketing managers, business coaches, trainers and educators, as well as colleges and their students Australia-wide. Please note that subscription to APJ will ensure you will continue to receive the publication. However, only financial Members qualify for the full range of services and discounts.

For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 email info@apanetwork.com for an application form or visit www.ananetork.com and down load a Membership Application Form.

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“Developing dynamic alliances for the Aesthetics Industry”

APJ 18

睨漠楳⁡灡 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‷㨳㘺ㄲ⁐


INNOVATE / INSPIRE COMFORTEL SPA DESIGN

Innovate and inspire with the new Comfortel Design service – helping you to create a vision for your spa with Comfortel Furniture. Realise your dreams with the Comfortel Design Service.

NEW Ask for more details

Scorpio

Skin Bella • Microdermabrasion for Spa

Pedicure spa – grand

Spa Jet

Nannolight™ Intense Pulsed Light

Latest technology for treatment of: • Permanent Hair Reduction • Pigmented Lesions • Vascular Lesions • Photorejuvenation • Acne

Call for your free 60 page catalogue

Victoria Moorabbin 03 9553 5504 New South Wales Artarmon 02 9966 5900 Queensland Slacks Creek 07 3209 1444 South Australia Thebarton 08 8443 3703 Western Australia Bentley 08 9258 4446 New Zealand Auckland 09 525 3357 www.comfortel.com.au

3649 SPA AUST AD FA.indd 1

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apan membership

Can you benefit from a $20,000 Business Stimulus Package? As part of APAN’s first anniversary celebration, from June this year all who renew their membership, or join as a Member of APAN,,will go into the draw for a $20,000 Business Stimulus Package. Through the generous contribution of 10 companies the following products and services will be award to one lucky winner. APAN wishes to thank all our sponsors for their generosity and kind contributions and we encourage you to support them as they are all credible companies. Please take a few moments to check them out and make sure you are in the draw to win the full package valued at over

4CP Promotional Products & Graphic Design

Graphic Design, Phone: 07 5442 3341, Fax: 07 5442 3451 Email: wayne@4cp.com.au Web: www.4cp.com.au

Giving a small thank you gift with your logo and phone number is a simple yet effective way of keeping your contact details close at hand through a useful item such as a purse mirror, nail file or a pen, just to name a few. You can also give your clients a second one to give to a friend and in that way encourage them to talk about you to someone else and instantly achieve a promotion.

If you love training then you could put your skills to good use and be part of a Registered Training Organisation’s training program, by delivering the practical component of the training within your salon or clinic.

4CP PROMOTIONAL PRODUCTS & GRAPHIC DESIGN are marketing and promotional specialists. They offer a wide variety of promotional products at very low cost that include your logo and contact details.

The lucky winner of our membership draw will win over 3,000 promotional and marketing items valued at $660 including DL flyers, stickers, magnets, pens, nail files and coasters designed with your contact details kindly donated by 4CP. These items can be immediately put to work to increase your customer loyalty and grow your business. If you believe you would like to benefit from your own promotional items please contact Wayne Knetter, 4CP Promotional Products &

APJ 20

1to1 Beauty Therapy Training

1to1 is a privately owned Registered Training Organisation, promoting a system of Workplace training, whereby suitably qualified Beauty therapists and Hairdressers have a facility to train their own staff or fee-for-service trainees. With more than 40 years’ experience within the beauty industry 1to1 Beauty Therapy Training also specialises in the development of training and assessment tools for use by other RTOs.

The lucky winner will receive a comprehensive staff audit and assessment of their training needs valued at $5,000. Do you believe that your salon or clinic could benefit from improving your skills and qualifications? Or perhaps you would like to partner with 1to1 Beauty Therapy Training to deliver on-the-job training. If so, please contact Jeannie Chapman, principal of 1to1 Beauty Therapy Training, by phoning 03 9886 7979 or email admin@beautytherapytraining.edu.au


Vital Organic Rooibos tea for antioxidant benefits with a refreshing taste Providing your clients with a refreshing cup of Vital Organic Rooibos herbal tea bursting with antioxidants will not only delight them, but is also good for their health. Research shows that Rooibos tea is high in antioxidants. Consumed daily, it can play a role in assisting in the prevention of the degenerative diseases associated with excess oxidation. Furthermore, it contains minerals such as potassium, sodium, copper, magnesium and calcium, which support metabolic functions, and unlike other teas, does not adversely affect the absorption of iron. Used for decades in skincare for its antioxidant properties, it helps improve the symptoms of skin conditions like eczema and even herpes simplex. Rooibos tea is known to have a soothing effect on the central nervous system and is recommended for people suffering from headaches, insomnia, nervous strain or hypertension associated with stress. It also assists in improving digestion, liver function and blood sugar regulation.

The winner of the APAN membership campaign will receive $300 worth of Organic Rooibos products from Vital Health Foods Australia. If you would like to introduce Vital Organic Rooibos tea to your clients phone Vital Health Foods Australia on 1300 131 686 or visit www.vitalhealthfoods.com.au

Nutritional Supplementation by BIO CONCEPTS Nutritional support can make all the difference to the end result in your skin therapy and anti-ageing objectives. This is why introducing a quality nutritional range that is backed by research and formulated to the highest therapeutic standards should be the product of choice. Bio Concepts is an Australian-owned company that has been formulating high-quality Practitioner-Only products for over 20 years. They ensure that only essential and synergistic ingredients go into their nutritional formulations and utilise peer-reviewed scientific literature and cutting-edge information to guarantee their products are of the highest quality. The founder of Bio Concepts, Henry Osiecki, has been an integral part of the development and success of this company. Professionally trained as a Biochemist, Dietitian and Nutritionist, Henry’s philosophy was to integrate cutting-edge nutritional research into therapeutic products of maximal efficiency. Bio Concepts offer two brands – Orthoplex and Dr Vera’s Formulations.

The winner will receive nutraceutical products valued at $2,000. If you are a healthcare practitioner or work with a qualified healthcare professional and would like more information on Orthoplex and Dr Vera’s Formulations please contact Bio Concepts Ph: 1800 503 720 or visit www.bioconcepts.com.au

Quality Mineral-enriched makeup Enhance by Natural Compatibles There is nothing like a touch of makeup to give that flawless final finish after a facial, and what better product to deliver this than Enhance Natural Compatibles.

After 17 successful years of delivering timeless makeup enhancement solutions to thousands of Australian women through their unique Feature Focusing™ technique and their mineral-enriched quality product the company recently underwent its own extreme makeover. As a result Enhance Natural Compatibles has updated all of the products and materials to reflect a more contemporary look and to better reflect their values and what they stand for. “Enhance encompasses all that’s contemporary and embodies our philosophy that all we need is to enhance our natural beauty to maintain a look that’s timeless and youthful,” Denise Richardson, founder and managing director of Enhance Natural Compatibles said. Enhance Natural Compatibles’ principles are based on “style” rather than “fashion trends”, promoting a long-lasting relationship between the brand and its loyal users.

The lucky winner will receive Enhance Natural Compatibles stock and training to the value of $1500. If you would like information on Enhance Natural Compatibles’ recent product releases and updates phone 1800 636 077 or 03 9764 0966. Visit www.naturalcompatibles.com.au

Clinical Skincare, Healthcare and Equipment (CSHE) for leading quality equipment and innovative skincare No salon today can achieve noteworthy results in their treatments without the use of advanced equipment technologies. One company that is considered a leader in the aesthetic and medical aesthetic industry is CSHE. Renowned for quality products and advanced training protocols and techniques, CSHE has contributed to the success of many salons and clinics throughout Australia with their cutting-edge, state-of-the-art equipment and advanced skincare formulations – A Natural Difference. CSHE also delivers government-ccredited training for light-based therapies and laser and are constantly at the forefront of industry advancements and education. Known also for their charity and generosity, they were quick to support our membership campaign through a generous contribution.

To the lucky winner CSHE will be giving equipment to the value of $3,000. If you would like further information on CSHE’s equipment and products phone 1800 638 999 — www.clinicalskincare.com.au

Indio Cosmeceuticals for excellent results and great profits Every salon needs a good skincare range that will deliver results. Indio Cosmeceuticals offer a leading quality cosmeticeutical product for salons with demanding clients who expect only the very best. The Indio comprehensive range provides skincare solutions for each and every skin type and condition. Furthermore, Indio takes care of the salon and business owner through great profit margins and incredible offers of ‘gift with purchase’ for the retail range. Indio also boasts to having started the ‘Strictly No Internet Sales’ trend within the industry, protecting salons from losing sales to web-based purchases, and promoting awareness for the need for professional products to be sold only after correct consultation with a qualified skin professional.

APJ 21


Highly committed to the growth and progress of the aesthetic industry Indio as a company is dedicated to the continued development of innovative quality products that are results-orientated, while offering incredible business support to the salon and spa owners.

To view their beautiful uniforms or speak to Nella or Dene phone 08 9209 3299, email: sales@voreidesigns.com.au or visit.www.voreidesigns.com.au for furtherdetails.

Gain the competitive edge through Nelson Beauty Business

The lucky winner will receive a mini opening salon pack from Indio Cosmeceuticals valued at $2,680.

Upgrading your knowledge in this vital area will determine how you can achieve more advanced results, especially if you are using IPL, lasers, microcurrent, LED – in fact any advanced equipment technology, chemical and enzyme peels and trans-epidermal skincare. Knowledge on how the cells respond to healing and to other therapeutic mechanisms, as well as how they interact with various equipment and product technologies, will allow you to move forward more confidently and constantly achieve improved results.

The lucky winner will receive training to the value of $2,500 from Advanced Aesthetics. If you would like to register for your training phone Gay Wardle on 0418 708 455 or visit www.advancedaesthetics.com.au

Vorei Design for professional first impressions First impressions are powerful in communicating who you are and what you stand for, and one of the most important tools for this is your uniform. Does it reflect professionalism, style, attention to detail, high standards as well as excellence, or does it look tired and dated? Vorei Designs are specialists in designing the perfect uniform for salons and clinics. Their meticulous attention to detail ensures that the very best fabric, designs and finishes are implemented to perfectly meet your needs. They will guide you through the new trends and design options so that the finished garment will reflect the best possible image of what you want it to portray to your clients. For a small investment you and your staff can look your very best and make an immediate positive statement to everyone who walks through your doors. The new addition to the Vorei team is Dene Selby, a qualified image consultant who will offer her expertise to ensure that your uniforms have all the right details and meet the highest possible standards.

The successful winner will receive Vorei Design uniforms valued at $1000. APJ 22

The lucky winner will receive a business-coaching package from Nelson Beauty Business valued at $2,500. You can contact Caroline Nelson on 0410 600 440 and learn more about her services. Or go to her website to sign up for her FREE e-Book “3 Top Salon Spa Money Making Secrets” www.nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com S

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Gay Wardle is the principal of Advanced Aesthetics and delivers training in the Pastiche Method ® of Advanced Skin Analysis throughout Australia. She is a multi-award winner and her training will transform the way you view the skin and the way you choose your treatment options.

Caroline is constantly developing new business tools, including Policies and Procedures Systems Manuals, step-by-step programs for salon and spa and numerous tools to help your business grow.

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Progress requires that we not only update our equipment and products, but that we also increase our knowledge on procedures and protocols. One of the most neglected areas in the aesthetic industry is a more scientific approach to skin analysis.

Caroline Nelson is one of Australia’s leading business coaches who specialises in the business of beauty. A third-generation beauty therapist, she knows the ins-and-outs of the business of beauty like no other. Additionally, she is known for her down-to-earth approach in perfecting every aspect of a business’s operation, from policies and procedures to staff development, marketing and promotional strategies.

Let your standards define your brand identity

Experts are now saying that ethics is the new brand tool that consumers are seeking out. Do you deliver what you say? Are you truthful about the expected outcomes your products and services can deliver? Do you stand by your promises and do you invest in making sure that your clients are getting the very best from you? AD

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Upgrade your skills in Advanced Skin Analysis by leading expert Gay Wardle

If you are looking to grow your business or just updating the way you operate, your brand or your image, the services of a competent business coach will allow you to gain not only expert advice, but also well-needed objectivity.

AESTHETIC

If you would like further information from Indio Cosmeceuticals phone 02 9669 6858 or visit www.indioskincare.com

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To assist the industry and its members APAN has developed a Business Standards Package that incorporates key information you will need to know and refer to, to ensure you are complying with Government Regulations. These include Wage Awards, Health Regulations, TGA requirements, Privacy Policy written specifically for our industry, a Code of Ethics and a Staff Induction Program that incorporates the Code of Ethics so that they can comply with its requirements as an establishment.

As a way of giving back to the industry APAN will also be offering the APAN Business Standards Pack valued at $650 to the lucky winner.

Join to Win To join APAN and be in the draw for these fantastic prizes visit www.apanetwork.com and download an Application Form. For further details how APAN can assist you and your business please phone 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com.


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Join to win

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$20000

In Products and Services.

APAN Membership offers you: Credibility and Recognition Leading Services Support and Help Networking Industry Updates Cost-saving Opportunities Rewards and Fun

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“The information that is provided through APJ and APAN is far more advanced and always up-to-date more than any other aesthetic association. I have also had client referrals from APAN. The clients felt that if I am associated with such an organisation I must be more professional and qualified than a regular salon.” Sue Carroll, Skin Inspiration - Advanced Skin and Laser Clinic, NSW (APAN member).

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For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0350 email info@apanetwork.com for an application form or visit www.apanetwork.com and down load a Membership Application Form.


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consuming in fact that many people forget to implement the most important steps along the way, which I call the three Ps. Here they are:

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PEOPLE, PRICES AND PROFIT PEOPLE POWER

One of the critical keys to any business success, and particularly a new business starting out, is to hire skilful, productive and profitable employees. Choosing the right people will be critical to business success and it deserves careful planning of job description and considerations that also includes the selection process. Make sure the new potential employee is prepared to embrace the business vision and agrees with the business culture. This is all critical if you don’t want to be re-hiring again and again to replace badly chosen employees.

Do you know what is the Best Sounding Music in a Salon? By Caroline Nelson Last year I consulted with a client prior to her opening a new salon. As she was investing a considerable amount of money she wanted to make sure she had the right business model and all operational systems in place. My expertise in many areas was sought from design and layout, equipment selection, skincare ranges to stock, salon staff policies and procedure manuals all the way through to the openingday launch. She was a delightful lady to work with and I found her very receptive to my suggestions and advice. In this article I will recount some of the advice I shared with her.

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First, let me say this new to-be salon owner has a great sense of humour – a much-needed asset during the pre-launch period because there are always so many shop fit-out hold-ups and minor and not so minor problems. So when she asked me what was the best music to have playing in her salon, my reply gave her a good laugh. I said, “The ka-ching ka-ching music of the cash register is the music I like to hear playing in any salon or spa”. Sure it was a light-hearted response, but still a very valid one. I did go on to suggest several spa-style CDs and some slightly more up-beat ones for the reception area – very necessary if you want clients to be stimulated and responsive to purchasing post-treatment skincare. On the other hand, the treatment rooms require a different ambience with beautiful calming music to relax and soothe. Getting back to the ka-ching ka-ching comment, I often find in the euphoric stage of opening a new salon or day spa many owners fail to get their priorities right. They focus so heavily on how the new business will look, the services it will offer and how pretty their brochures will be, but fail to realise it is a business. Opening any new business is also highly stressful and very time-consuming, so

Ideally, employees should enjoy coming to work and being committed to the organisation for more reasons than their pay packet at the end of the week. If they know where the company is heading, its purpose, goals and just where they fit into the scheme of things this will inspire loyalty and commitment. This will also encourage what is called “employee engagement”.

Research tells us that engaged employees are more willing to contribute to a high level of productivity, customer service and higher retail sales. Employee engagement encompasses much more than just job satisfaction, it involves a strong connection to the organisation and other team members. The highly engaged employee is willing to contribute a high level of productivity, which in turn leads to customer satisfaction, higher sales results and retention.

PRICING STRATEGIES There are a variety of ways to determine which Pricing Strategy suits your business objectives best and these fall into three main categories – Cost-orientated, Competitor-orientated and Demandorientated. You may wish to adopt one or a combination of all.

! COST-ORIENTATED: Find out what your costs are to produce each service. Most suppliers will be able to furnish you with individual treatment product costing, plus add a little extra for some wastage, include the correct proportion of direct cost (wages, product, marketing and training) and the percentage of indirect cost that may be appropriate and what cost-recovery (or profit) you want. To calculate the indirect costs percentage add all your annual fixed indirect costs together and divide by the number of working hours. i.e. if your combined therapists’ work hours per week is 100 hours this would equate to 5200 hours per year. Therefore divide the total annual fixed indirect costs by 5200. This will give you the hourly cost. And don’t forget to factor in “down time” when employees are not treating paying customers.

! COMPETITOR-ORIENTATED:

Look at what your competitors are charging, and react accordingly. In this case you might like to charge the same, to undercut, or to ‘package’ your service in a better way so as to add customer-perceived value

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APJ 24

捡牯汩湥⁡牴楣汥 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨰ㄺ〶⁐


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Have you purchased your Deluxe gift & post cards for your next promotion?

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APAN has developed a series of 12 postcards and gift vouchers to help boost your sales through high quality products at a cost-effective price. These cards have been very carefully designed and worded to help you gain new clients as well as engage existing clients, who need to be given an incentive to return. They have been used during promotional evenings, as a letter drop as well as for specific mail out to clients who have not attended for some time. We recommend you display one at your front counter in a cardholder with a notice to clients to purchase a gift voucher. To view the full range of subjects and cards visit www.apanetwork.com and click on the link on the left under MERCHANDISING and find gift cards and vouchers. You can purchase them in lots of 50 to suit your needs. Each pack of 50 is $40. The more your purchase the more cost effective they become. Contact APAN on 07 5593 0360

Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

so that you can charge more. Bear in mind that price is not always the issue – value is. While some customers do shop with price in mind, the vast majority rate value-added service higher. This approach will not only allow you to win new customers, but it will also allow you to go a long way in keeping them. If you undercut prices this can set off a ‘price-war’ and at the end of the day both businesses suffer.

! DEMAND-ORIENTATED:

Do your competitors offer the same products and services and will this affect the demand for them? If, for example, you have new technology and skills that the competitors do not have then you can stay ahead by charging more, but this may not always be the case if the competition is on a level playing field. The key point to consider in this type of pricing strategy is “what will the market bear” and price just a touch under so that the service is still perceived as good value for money.

PROFIT Sell the Experience – if you want happy, loyal customers who come back again and again give them a level of customer service that goes well beyond what they expected. The instant you and your team realise that the future is in selling experiences and not just skincare, your business will be transformed into an exciting, profitable organisation that will make a difference in the lives of its clients and employees. On the other hand, if the experience is below par, the client is disappointed. But if the experience delivers the ‘wow’ factor, the client will become a delighted, raving fan who will be happy to spread the ‘word-of-mouth’ recommendation. Remember, we don’t sell products or services – we sell experiences. Profit will increase in direct relation to customer experience satisfaction.

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Upselling and cross-selling not only increases sales, but also just as importantly it adds value to your customer relationships. For example, if a customer was just having the same old pampering facial every time she comes in would her skin results improve if she had the addition of a microdermabrasion? If the answer is yes, and she hasn’t been presented with this option, then this is not only a lost sale opportunity, but it also reduces the customer’s experience and satisfaction.

You might ask, “How does selling the customer more each transaction help them?” One of the best examples of how great customer service can pump up your sales and increase profits is found in the motor vehicle industry. To a car salesperson it’s not only about selling the car that meets the customers driving requirement .ie. a car that gets them safely and reliably from A to B, but also selling the extras that deliver a great driving experience.

The new car purchaser is generally after a better driving experience and this is often one of the reasons they are purchasing a new car and not a second-hand model. So how does spending more money increase their driving experience? Well consider the music buff the salesperson sells the extra of a premium sound system too. Would this increase the music buff’s driving experience and satisfaction? Every time they got in their beautiful new car and heard that pure sound it would put a smile on their face. So the upselling of the premium sound system not only provides a better customer experience, but also increases the sale price and profits. Can you see how this type of enhanced customer service could work in a beauty business? Even the smallest service could be upgraded. For example, the customer who comes in for an eyebrow wax could have her brows tinted to complement her hair colour and define the brow shape. Train your team to sell the sizzle of the upgrades just like the car sales manager does. This technique can also be successfully used in retail selling, for example, by selling a serum along with a moisturiser the client’s skin would benefit from. So the next time a customer asks for a moisturiser get both the moisturiser and serum off the shelf. Then proceed to educate on the vastly more enhanced results the combination of the two products will deliver. Think of all the companion products in your skincare ranges and train your team to sell this way. My consulting client’s new business has now been open almost 12 months. It was opened in what could only be described as a very slow economic time and yet it is thriving. The reason is that she did seek an expert’s help before opening and most importantly, she followed the critical People, Prices and Profit Rules I advised. Recently when we were chatting she told me that her favourite music now was the kaching ka-ching music of the cash register. I couldn’t agree more. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2010 Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry specific business coach specialising in helping salon and spa owners operate super-successful businesses. She has recently launched a new manual. Salon Spa Staff Team Building for Success. This manual gives a “blueprint” of how to create a money-generating team. For further details please contact Caroline on 0410 600 440 or check her website www.nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.co m for business tools to grow your business.

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APJ 25

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equipment APAN is currently looking at setting up a list of objective criteria to help salons make wise choices as we are seeing far too many bad purchases from unscrupulous suppliers who have sold inferior products to ill-informed salon owners who later regretted the purchase. Common complaints include poor service, insufficient training, unsubstantiated claims and equipment that frequently breaks down. But the most important of all these would have to be when the device does not deliver the results they were promised. To avoid such headaches it pays to purchase from companies with a proven reputation for quality devices and excellent training to set competencies. One such company is High Tech Laser, which is considered as a leader in the aesthetic industry. Here Matt Moncrieff, Managing Director of High Tech Laser, gives us some valuable insight into the world of aesthetic technologies, equipment advancements and what the future holds.

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APJ 1: Matt, what do you believe High Tech Laser brings to the aesthetic industry and how are you achieving this? Matt Moncrieff: I believe we bring a high level of knowledge and support to the industry, along with the capacity to offer a business owner the choice from the largest range of high-quality lasers and IPLs in Australia. The quality and the sheer number of systems we have available allow us to recommend the best value wavelength or device for any client. This gives us a significant pointof-difference in that we can take more of a consultative role with our clients without needing to push a particular product. We spend a lot of time educating our potential clients on how to identify a quality system. Because of the high standards of our European and American-made systems we don’t try to compete on price. I think that aestheticians are increasingly searching for quality systems to give their business a point of difference over competitors who are using cheap, low-quality systems. An example of this has been an increase in enquiries for Nd:YAG, Alexandrite and diode laser systems for hair removal. To some people there is a perception that lasers are more effective. Not so long ago these same businesses would have been making enquiries about IPL systems only. I believe we are achieving this because we are encountering more and more clinic owners who have purchased cheaper machines and have been “burnt” by inferior equipment failing and a lack of support from the company they purchased from. Now they are coming to us looking for quality equipment to replace their failed units. Purchasers have learnt their lesson from a bad experience and are choosing us for high-quality equipment and support.

Equipment Technology – Discerning the good from the bad by Matt Moncrieff

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As equipment technology becomes more sophisticated so the need for greater discernment is needed from where one should purchase their equipment. It pays to carefully investigate your supplier and determine their knowledge, expertise as well as the credibility of the devices they are selling to you. Experience has time and time again proven that when it comes to equipment price should not be the primary deciding factor. This is because equipment is a serious investment, not only from a monitory perspective, but also because its capabilities have the power to determine how successful your treatments will be and ultimately your business.

APJ 2: What major changes have you identified over the past 10 years in terms of technologies? Can you give us some examples? Matt Moncrieff: The biggest change has been the reduction in prices of systems, as the market became flooded with inferior quality devices. At one stage there were over 20 exhibitors selling IPLs at major trade shows. The original quality suppliers who came from medical-device backgrounds are still here, but there are some suppliers still selling the budget machines as sidelines to beauty

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APJ 26

桩杨⁴散栠污獥爠敤 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨰㤺㐹⁐


products. This might be convenient, but it means people are not necessarily making an informed decision.

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There have been attempts to add additional modalities to hair removal devices such as RF, that have been tried and shown not to provide the significant benefits that were originally claimed. However, for body shaping RF and Ultrasound have been proven to show beneficial improvements in body contouring and for a reduction in the appearance of cellulite and skin laxity. The TriActive Plus from Deka is a good example where appropriately combining technologies can deliver better outcomes.

While sourcing a portable LED system for skin rejuvenation, we were introduced to the HydraFacial.™ This is a new and innovative treatment that cleanses, exfoliates and rehydrates the skin by infusing naturally occurring AHA and anti-oxidants into the skin to increase hydration and destroy free radicals that cause premature ageing. HydraFacial™ is an exciting new product for us that produces great skin therapy results and also secures excellent financial returns for clinics.

APJ 3: If a clinic or salon wishes to address slimming and wellness issues what tools are available to them to achieve credible results? Matt Moncrieff: The main body-shaping technologies in recent times have been the intake of massage and laser and more recently radio frequency and ultrasound. Previously, a clinic had to install multiple systems to access all of these modalities. Our main bodyshaping system, the Deka Tri-Active, has been upgraded to include all of these features. The unification of all these modalities in one device reflects the importance that Deka, one of the world's biggest laser and IPL manufacturers, is placing on body shaping in the market today. For many years the TriActive has gained accolades from medical professionals and aestheticians in Europe and especially the USA for the effective way it treats cellulite and fluid retention. The TriActive has evolved into what I consider to be the most comprehensive bodyshaping device on the market. The TriActive system now has ultrasound and radio frequency (RF) handpieces to achieve skintightening and fat-reduction as well as the laser, massage and cooling for the treatment of cellulite and fluid retention. Ultrasound allows the targeting of fat deposits at different depths and reduces the circumference of areas such as hips, thighs and buttocks. The RF handpieces achieve skin tightening by combining bipolar RF with a vacuum massage to effectively deliver results on the face and body. Both RF and Ultrasound modules have handpieces sized for both the body and face. The real bonus for a salon targeting slimming and body shaping as a service is that they will get three systems in one. The clinical effectiveness and return on investment that this achieves makes TriActive Plus an easy choice for anyone considering adding bodyshaping, skin-tightening and cellulite reduction into their salon. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

APJ 4: Are there any new advances in technology that you are excited about? Matt Moncrieff: Our HydraFacial™ Hydradermabrasion is a technology that excites me because it replaces three separate treatments — microdermabrasion, skin-peels and skin nutrition, with one treatment that is gentler than all the rest. The feedback from users is that their clients love the treatments, and people with delicate skin, who would not be suitable for microdermabrasion or skin peels, are getting great results without the discomfort.

There have been attempts to add additional modalities to hair removal devices such as RF, that have been tried and shown not to provide the significant benefits that were originally claimed. However, for body shaping, RF and Ultrasound have been proven to show beneficial improvements in body contouring and for a reduction in the appearance of cellulite and skin laxity.

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With the HydraFacial™ including Glysal acid peels, it answers the demand in the aesthetic market for more lasting, non-invasive results. I can see HydraFacial™ over the next few years reinvigorating the market that was previously filled by clients seeking microdermabrasion treatments.

APJ 5: I believe you also travel internationally, how do you believe Australia compares in terms of progress with other countries? Can you explain? Matt Moncrieff: I think it really depends on the product. With some of the products we have sold Australia leads the world in terms of adoption. In others areas Australia waits for the lead from Europe and the USA. With our Energist and iPulse IPL systems Australia led the world in making high-quality IPL systems available at an affordable price for consumers. On the other hand, the previous version of our cellulite system that had great feedback and credibility from international medical practitioners was slow to be adopted over here. Body shaping through technology is becoming more acceptable to the Australian consumer as they become increasingly time-poor and the growth and demand of this area of service is now accelerating.

APJ 6: Are there any trends that you have identified that you would like to share with us that businesses should be made aware of? Matt Moncrieff: The trend that I have identified is towards consumers wanting lasting changes with minimum down time. This means that salons need to invest in equipment that has the capability to target particular problems and provide the power to get results. I think aesthetic businesses may be caught out if they just stick to general treatments like IPL hair removal. With greater competition in the market those who invest in more targeted outcomes for skin rejuvenation with higher-quality IPLs, lasers and body-shaping technologies can gain the competitive edge. For business owners the challenge this brings is choosing the right device and wavelength for their business. The advantage that lasers can provide with their specific targeting of certain chromophores in the skin for one treatment can conversely create a compromise for other treatments. This needs to be taken into account when you are choosing a new system. To minimise your capital expenditure you need to buy smartly, and I think that is where our depth of knowledge is helping business owners make better decisions.

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APJ 27

桩杨⁴散栠污獥爠敤 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨰㤺㐹⁐


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Here is a snapshot of how Sue thinks and faces her professional and personal life:

1. Sue, what do you love the most about your work as an Aesthetic therapist?

What I love the most about my work and our profession is the broad spectrum of knowledge from which I can continuously learn and the REAL results that this knowledge can allow me to provide to my clients. ㈵

2. Tell us of an experience with a client that has made your work so rewarding?

A female client who was 32 years old with an active grade 3 acne condition for 20 years, severe ice-pick scarring and constant erythema.

Working with an integrative practitioner, we addressed the causes, and at the same time worked with her topically with ALA, IPL, homecare and then peeling and fractional laser treatments.

Member Profile The secret of happiness is not in doing what one likes, but in liking what one has to do. J. M. Barrie (1860-1937) There is nothing more real and inspirational than to hear how other like-minded professionals face their professional commitments and stay on top of their daily challenges to achieve progress. Welcome to a new section of APJ where we will be profiling an APAN member in each issue so that you can get to hear from other colleagues about how they think and how they address their life and their concerns. In this issue we speak to Sue Carroll from Skin Inspiration Advanced Skin and Laser Clinic in Mona Vale, Sydney. Sue is a qualified Beauty Therapist who trained with Eileen Lazar and also holds ITEC qualifications since 1983. She then completed further studies in Nutrition with the Australasian Academy of Nutrition and Health, which she passed with honours, and in 1997 trained as a Para-medical Aesthetician in America. From the start of her career in beauty therapy she has worked with integrative medical practitioners, as she has always believed that internal health often holds the key to external manifestations on the skin. Her on-going education includes work experience both in Australia and America with dermatologists and plastic surgeons, as well as regularly attending educational workshops and several trade shows in many areas of the world, the last being the Las Vegas Convention of Aesthetics, which she attended in April this year. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Sue has owned several businesses, which include beauty salons and one of the first day spas in Sydney, Heaven On Earth Spa. She now owns Skin Inspiration Advanced Skin and Laser Clinic – a laser and cosmetic clinic. Having employed well over 100 therapists, she is familiar with the importance of quality staff and the need to continue to identify ways to improve her practice and her profession. She is highly committed to credible wellness concepts and believes that the aesthetic industry needs to embrace these concepts so that they can confidently move forward into the future.

This integrative approach brought continued progress and after one year the acne has been curtailed, the scarring and erythema is non-existent and the client constantly smiles, having been given a new lease of life with these results.

3. Why did you join APAN and what value have you received as a member? The information that is provided through APJ and APAN is far more advanced and always up-to-date more than any other aesthetic association. I have also had client referrals from APAN. The clients felt that if I am associated with such an organisation I must be more professional and qualified than a regular salon

4. What motivates you to stay on top of things when you are facing problems? I am motivated by the understanding that any problem is temporary and can be overcome if I put my mind to it, and the experience can assist me to move forward and progress both personally and professionally

5. How do you de-stress? We have a horse and a cattle farm, and going there on the weekends allows me to refocus. Nature and its challenges, beauty and simplicity bring everything back into balance.

6. What is your favourite pastime? Riding my horses and our Harleys!

7. What can't you live without? My products and treatments.

8. What is your favourite product? Rhonda Allison’s Retinol Supreme. Sorry, I can’t stop at one, my gauze and toning lotion!

9. What is the most exciting thing you have done so far this year? As far as business goes, reviewed my direction and goals that I am achieving, setting new ones, learning constantly which ones I can’t live without. I also get excited and appreciate every day the team I work with as well as taking time to breathe, as this is also important to allow me to refocus. Allowing myself to feel proud of my achievements – something I have never allowed myself to do before. It may all sound very cliche, but I have realised that appreciating the simple things is the answer. Simplicity works – we don’t need to complicate things.

10. What do you consider is the most important thing that businesses need to focus on when going through difficult times? Remember your goals and stay focused to achieve them. Re-evaluate your direction if necessary in a calm and orderly manner. Believe in yourself, your training and focus to remain true to your professionalism and the high standards you stand for and have achieved. Find a good mentor such as APAN and its affiliates to allow you to keep moving forward.

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APJ 28

浥浢敲猠灲潦楬 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱㜺㌵⁐


ingredient While these measures have their place it is important that we also understand how they effect the skin and the correct way of restoring it and supporting its recovery. Through the use of a skin scanning device a company representative recently reported the degree of micro-skin scarring and capillary damage they detected on individuals who had undergone extensive microderabrasion treatments that were either too aggressive, or the skin did not receive the correct support for recovery before being exposed to further treatment. New technological advances now enable us to view how skin responds to various treatments and these revelations can point to better ways of addressing irregularities that are possibly working against our objectives.

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So how does the skin respond to various levels of trauma, and how can we better protect it to stay within the intended objectives when dealing with the issue of exfoliation or dermal stimulation? Furthermore, what ingredients should we turn to when seeking to support the skin’s immunity?

EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTOR Let’s look at what happens to the skin during an exfoliation treatment. When skin is damaged, it produces a protein called “epidermal growth factor” (or EGF) to heal itself. This protein is released to help the skin heal when it has a bleeding cut, as opposed to a paper cut where no bleeding happens, and no immediate healing process takes place. Therefore, if you are planning to use AHAs, TCAs,chemical or Enzyme peels where you are disturbing and removing skin cells you need to be aware of a few considerations. These procedures will directly stimulate a more rapid removal of skin cells, but if this is done without also rapidly replacing these cells it will result in immune stress, dryness, redness and dehydration. Once you open the door to immune stress anything can happen. A peel does little more than force the skin to produce EGF through supposedly “controlled” damage of the stratum corneum. The skin is left to heal itself via pathways crowned with chemicals released by a scrambling immune response (it is the immune system that struggles to reject the peel). What we are now realising is that without the correct support for recovery the long-term effects of these procedures may not be as intended.

Are you rebuilding the skin after Chemical and Mechanical Exfoliation?

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We are all cautioned on the importance of avoiding damage to the epidermis as it is the first line of defence in protecting the body from harmful substances entering the internal environment. But in a bid to achieve smoother and clearer complexions we utilise such measures as microdermabrasion and chemical peels and even more invasive procedures such as collagen induction therapy through skin needling.

KEY SKINCARE INGREDIENTS New research has identified certain ingredients that can support the skin’s recovery. Here are some you should keep in mind:

EPIGROWTH FACTORS – This is a protein with an essential amino acid that mimics the body’s own healing mechanism and rapidly supports the recovery of the skin after a peeling treatment.

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APJ 30

捳桥⁥ 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨰㜺ㄲ⁐


BETA FRUCTAN – This ingredient greatly improves communication between immune cells. BETA FRUCTAN is a naturally occurring compound found in plants that normally thrive in drought conditions. Beta Fructan finesses immunity in the skin and supports the hydration levels. It helps to keep the skin not only plumper, but also supports and improves its general health.

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BETA GLUCOSAMINE – This is a key ingredient to support all mucopolysccharies. Beta-Glucosamine helps to smooth the appearance of fine lines. It is a powerful antioxdiant that minimised the effects of free-radical damage and the signs of skin ageing and fatigue.

As new information comes to light, stepping up our procedures, especially our more invasive ones with the right post-treatment recovery products will mean that we can now offer our clients even better results. Knowing your ingredients and the role they play in your professional services will make the difference between an average treatment outcome and an exceptional one.

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For these and other formulations developed for clinical and professional use contact CSHE Australia Pty Ltd Ph: 1800 628 999 www.clinicalskincare.com.au

AMINOGUANIDINE – Aminoguanidine inhibits the ‘cross-linking’ (or EGF/DNA RECOVERY CRÈME glycosylation) of proteins, Designed to speed up skin recovery after which may cause many of the professional peeling services, EGF/DNA problems of old age. It is RECOVERY CRÈME can be used in conjunction believed that the cross-linking with EGF/DNA RECOVERY CONCENTRATE of the proteins that make up the to further strengthen the skin’s constitution, protect human body contributes to the and heal it. Containing Oligopeptides, Epigrowth ageing process and in Factor, Aloe, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Beta Fructan, particular in ageing of the skin. Beta Glucosamine, Aminoguanidine, Carrot Oil Cross-linking is the process and Sage. EGF/DNA RECOVERY CRÈME that causes food to turn yellow should be applied liberally as often as possible on and become tough with age. new peeled skin for at least 3-4 days and then Similarly with humans, crossreduced to twice a day. linking may be responsible for Benefits include: many of the problems of old ! Regenerates the skin and assists in reducing the appearance of inflammation and supports quick age, including senile cataracts, healing. thickening of the arteries, skin Enhances hydration levels and prevents skin sensitivity and drying ! inflexibility and damage to the Enhances elasticity ! immune system. Assists in correcting any pigment formulation in new skin ! Studies show that ! Supports skin’s natural immune function and hormonal balance aminoguanidine and carnosine ! Helps correct damaged cells to be age inhibitors. In the natural ageing process, sugar storage shifts to connective tissues (collagen and elastin), which harden the protein matrix of tissue. Aminoguanidine steers free radicals and reactive oxygen EGF/DNA RECOVERY species to their destruction. This is a key ingredient in the strategy against ageing. CONCENTRATE

CARROT OIL – Carrot oil is highly beneficial for the skin because it is a rich source of natural vitamin A and beta-carotene and is also a potent antioxidant that assists in combating free radical damage. Carrot oil is used in cosmetic formulations due to its excellent regenerative properties and its ability to improve skin flexibility and turgor, as well as improve the texture of the skin due to its high vitamin content.

PUMPKIN-SEED OIL – It appears that the biggest skin benefits of pumpkin-seed oil are that it possesses very high levels of the natural antioxidants and polyunsaturated fatty acids. Pumpkin seed oil is especially high in the gamma-tocopherol form of Vitamin E, which is a powerful antioxidant.

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FORMULATIONS FOR EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTOR RECOVERY A Natural Difference offers two products to support the skin and speed healing of the skin after professional peeling procedures. Available both for professional use, as well as retail sales and suitable for all skin types.

Containing a blend of Beta Fructan, Aminoguanidine and Beta Glucosamine as the key ingredients as well as Aloe Vera, Pumpkin Seed oil, Carrot oil, Sage extract, Allantoin and Rosewood essential oil.

This serum can be applied morning and night after cleansing. Benefits include:

! ! ! ! ! !

Supports the skin’s normal immune function and hormonal balance Helps regenerate the skin Reduces the appearance of inflammation Enhances skin elasticity Prevents dryness Helps maintain perfect skin pH balance for a flawless appearance

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APJ 31

捳桥⁥ 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨰㜺ㄳ⁐


Phone: 02 9966 0250 for further details.

Consumer Demand Rises for BLOMDAHL Medical Piercing Whatever you may think of body piercing it is now becoming a hot trend and considered as a tasteful grooming option that most in the Y Generation consider as a “must-have” particularly in the more socially-acceptable areas of ear, nose and navel piercing. Blomdahl Medical, using modern material of medical-grade is now considered the leader in these areas of piercing. Despite having the most expensive systems on the market, they are in constant demand for their products and services. In fact, during the past 12 months during the global financial crisis piercing services are continuing to be in high demand. As a result of a recent advertising campaign in consumer magazines by Blomdahl a flood of nation-wide enquiries from the public has put pressure on them to get the word out to beauty salons to provide these services so that they can direct clients to them. Blomdahl is a highly reputable company and only recommends and train EAR, NOSE and NAVEL piercing. The company offers proven and successful concepts that undoubtedly is the reason why more customers are demanding Blomdahl products and requesting to be referred to a salon who can provide a Blomdahl piercing service.

THE SECRET TO THE BLOMDAHL SUCCESS Piercing is an invasive procedure that is relatively safe if performed to strict hygiene protocols. The secret to Blomdahl’s popularity and success lies in the fact that they take products and systems seriously ensuring the highest standards. Here is what you and your clients can expect from their products and methods: The piercer will never needs to touch the piercing jewellery when loading the cassette, whether that is EAR, NOSE or NAVEL piercing The only piercing company to offer Medical Plastic ear studs. The only one to guaranteed 0% nickel ear piercing earrings on the market as well as Medical Grade Titanium ear studs, nose studs and navel piercing jewellery – all preloaded and packaged ready to use Fully traceable sterility of the process for any piercing jewellery within the Blomdahl range (as long as correct paper work is maintained), which also fully complies with Australian Standards for pre-packaged, sterile goods. Many suppliers can make these claims, but are they able to substantiate them? Blomdahl butterfly (for ear piercing) are locked in the cassette and do not fall out even when the piercing instrument is turned upside down to pierce the top of the ear.

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WHY YOU SHOULD INCLUDE THESE SERVICES The younger generation is very image conscious. As a rule they do not have a mortgage or heavy family financial commitments. They are in a period in their life where they are still exploring and seeking self-discovery and investing in what makes them feel and look good. They make up a strong market share that may not otherwise be part of your regular clientele. By introducing ear and body piercing services you can capture a new market with the opportunity of introducing them to your other services – waxing, tinting, eyelash extension and of course skincare and facial treatments. Furthermore, BLOMDAHL is constantly seeking salons to refer clients to. They are wholesalers and trainers of piercing services and products, so why not expand your business networking possibilities? By providing dedicated marketing material for advertising ear, nose and navel piercing, there would be no obligation to provide services for piercing other parts of the body, which you may not be trained in nor wish to provide.

BLOMDAHL TRAINING If you are already providing these services you can purchase an excellent range of jewellery for retail sales. Alternatively, if you would like to add piercing to your range of services you can receive full training. John Rice who is one of a few internationally certified Blomdahl trainers and also holds a Certificate IV in Workplace Training and Assessment. By attending one of the BLOMDAHL Certified Courses, he will take each participant through not only technical skills, but also theoretical knowledge, so each piercer can answer any question that a customer may ask in relation to materials used, the piercing process, and, most importantly advise the client must have on how to look after their piercing. The piercer then not only gains a Certificate that has both merit and strength, but will also leave having gained the confidence to expand their business as a Certified Piercer. Furthermore, JMR Australia, the Blomdahl representatives within Australia and New Zealand, offer a SUPPORT SERVICE for both piercers and customers. Combine this with their fantastic marketing material that shows potential customers that the salon not only offers piercing services, but they do it using a modern, safer system for their clients. Why not grow your business through the introduction of one of the most popular services on the market today?

Contact JMR Australia Phone: 02 9966 0250 for further details.

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APJ 32


Australia’s most active skincare Australia’s lowest price

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regulations ㄰

liable and substantial fines can be imposed on offenders. In this article we will be covering the TPA requirements when dealing with clients.

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The TPA stipulates that it is important that practitioners understand these rules and how they apply to their day-to-day operations. Members of APAN may call on the organisation to determine whether their policies and advertising meet with the requirements of the TPA. Some of the most important rules on dealing with clients are as follows:

MISLEADING AND DECEPTIVE CONDUCT

Misleading and deceptive conduct refers to conduct that is prohibited. Generally this type of conduct involves leading someone into error, or being likely to, and includes behaviour such as lying, leading someone to a wrong conclusion, creating a false impression, leaving out or hiding important information or making false or inaccurate claims. It is irrelevant whether these are done intentionally or not. A business can break the rules by both deliberate and inadvertent actions. When advertising goods or services, professionals, like businesses, need to consider the overall impression that the advertisement is giving the audience. It should be accurate and contain all essential information. In other words, there must be full disclosure about what they represent. The same applies when negotiating or dealing with clients directly, or in any other way. Any representations made by a professional must be accurate and must be able to be substantiated. It is also important to remember that there will often be a real imbalance between the level of knowledge held by the professional and that of the general public. The use of technical or scientific terms or jargon that can be misunderstood may create a greater risk of misleading potential clients or consumers.

Professionals and the Trade Practices Act DEALING WITH CLIENTS The services we provide as practising professionals play a vital role in the lives of our clients. Aesthetics as a professional sector and the individual professionals with it, have distinctive characteristics, which separate them somewhat from other businesses. However, professionals, like all businesses, operate within markets, where market forces determine outcomes. A relative high degree of regulation impacts on the competition that takes place within the market for professional services. This includes government-imposed restrictions, legislation and privately imposed restrictions that operate through self-regulatory arrangements of professional associations and industry standards bodies.

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As a professional organisation APAN has a fundamental responsibility to provide a voice for its practising professionals. Part of our responsibility is to not only provide a community of practice within the profession, but also identify and set in place Codes of Conduct that reflect government requirements as well as uphold the integrity of the profession. Another requirement is to familiarise our members with their legal obligations with regards to the laws of the land and how they impact their business and professional activities. The Trade Practices Act (TPA) sets certain guidelines to promote fair and efficient competition within markets and to provide protection for consumers. Whether you are aware of its laws on not, you are still

MISREPRESENTATION A misrepresentation is where something is conveyed to a client that is not correct or contrary to fact. This may be through the use of, for example, picture, photos, words or statements. A special caution should be mentioned to “before and after” photos that have been either digitally enhanced or the angle of the face is different. Eyes are a perfect example where in the “before” shot the client is smiling thus creating creases and wrinkles around the eyes and not smiling in the “after” shot making the skin look smoother. Difference in lighting is also another issue for concern. The TPA prohibits a range of misrepresentations in relation to specific matters and the characteristics of goods or services and, as with the prohibition of misleading conduct, intention is irrelevant. The rules may be broken regardless as to whether the misrepresentation was deliberate or whether the maker did not know the representation was false at the time it was made. ㄰

It is particularly important to think about whether a representation could be creating, or does create, a wrongful impression in the mind of a consumer when making representations about: ! the characteristics of a good or service ! the price of a good or service ! the buyer’s need for a particular good or service ! future matters (where there is no reasonable ground for doing so) ! the existence, exclusion or effect of any condition, warranty, guarantee, right or remedy.

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APJ 34

呐䄠慮搠摥慬楮朠睩瑨⁣汩敮瑳 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲㐺ㄱ⁐


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Sell your professional services on their merits and don’t exaggerate Be honest about what you say and do commercially Look at the overall impression of your advertising. Ask yourself who the audience is and what the advertisement is likely to say or mean to them. Remember, at the very least you should consider how the matter will be viewed by a consumer who has little or no knowledge of the professional service.

DISCOUNTING PRICE (or two-price advertising) This is a very important consideration. Discount pricing involves a comparison of two prices, which commonly comes in the form of “was/now” pricing – and this is often referred to as two-price advertising. When using this pricing practice, it is important to ensure that any comparison drawn is genuine and accurately reflects the previous price with the discounted price.

When making discount price representations:

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The “was” price needs to be the price at which the professional service was offered for sale in a sufficient number and for a reasonable period of time before being discounted. The practitioner needs to be able to substantiate the discount offer. Any previous price should be genuine and not inflated, so the discount is real. A discounted price or special offer should be available for a limited period only. A discount that is offered for lengthy period of time effectively becomes the new price, so continuing to use two-price advertising will not reflect a genuine discount to clients. If discount pricing is used on the basis of how much something is “worth”, this needs to be supported by objective evidence.

COMPONENT PRICING Component pricing is advertising a price for a good or service in multiple (component) parts. The rules on component pricing require that where a partial price representation is made the client, a prominent single (total) price must also be provided. For example, “buy 10 and get one free”. In this case you can’t just give the group price without giving the unit price to substantiate how much the purchaser will actually save. The total price needs to be the minimum amount required for a consumer to obtain the good or service as it is advertised, to the extent it can be calculated at the time the price presentation is made. A number of exceptions apply, including quotes provided directly to another business and contracts for the provision of services via a periodic payment scheme and term.

When using component pricing:

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How to avoid misleading a client:

* The single price needs to include all the components that are able to be quantified when the price representation is made. * A practitioner should be able to substantiate why they are not able to quantify a particular component if it is not included. * The total price should be stated as it is able to be calculated. When some components vary, they should be calculated on information available at that time, with clients clearly advised. * Section 53C of the TPA does not just apply to representations made in advertisements; it is also applies to the prices shown on consent forms or provided in verbal representation to clients. For further information on dealing with consumers you should check the ACCC website as there are a number of publications available on advertising and selling. You can locate them on www.accc.gov.au or by contacting the ACCC information centre on 1300 302 502.

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Leadership, Learning and Growth Conference

Educators from two industries will come together for the one goal – QUALITY EDUCATION. The first national conference of its kind for the beauty and hair industry! 25th & 26th July 9.30am – 4.30pm Bayview on the Park 52 Queens Rd Melbourne Trainers and educators are invited to take part in this conference and gain a new set of skills and ideas to put into practice. ! Enjoy two full days of participating in panels and workshops ! Listen to brilliant people with brilliant ideas for educators ! Network with educators from around Australia ! Share ideas and inspirations

Presenters will include: BRUCE ATKINSON MLC Topic: The impact of legislation on training Bruce was elected Deputy President of the Legislative Council for the current Parliament after formerly holding Shadow Minister positions for small business, sport and recreation and Workcover.

MICHAEL HANN Topic: Make your training memorable, really memorable As a lead facilitator for Deep Blue Learning, Michael is an energetic, no nonsense and experienced trainer. He will show you how to make learning and developing an exciting and rewarding facet of training a rewarding and memorable one.

JANINE AND EOIN CLARKE Topic: Everyone grows where everyone learns This session will show you how to discover the tools and techniques to unlock an individual’s potential. Making learning and developing an exciting and rewarding facet of business is a key area to salon and employee growth.

WORKSHOPS & BREAKAWAY ACTIVITIES Beauty – Debra Kruske, Service Skills Victoria Hairdressing – Lina Robinson and Carol Dickman, Service Skills Australia

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Pros and Cons of training for a qualification in a deregulated industry The Learning Journey Creative thinking and innovative learning Balancing training with paperwork – a ‘how to’

Cost: Two-day conference and social networking session $450 pp

Group booking 5+ $390pp Closes 13th July Accommodation: Share with a friend at less than $70 each Twin and Queen rooms (share) $125

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BOOK NOW Contact 1 to 1 Beauty Therapy Training Ph: 03 9886 7979 Email: admin@beautytherapytraining.edu.au www.beautytherapytraining.edu.au

APJ 35

呐䄠慮搠摥慬楮朠睩瑨⁣汩敮瑳 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲㐺ㄲ⁐


key ingredients ㄰

STEM CELLS AND SKINCARE FORMULATIONS The way of the future has arrived When a beautiful person is admired it is not uncommon to hear the statement “It’s all in the genes!” Looking at the latest research on antiageing relating to facial skincare, there is now evidence that this could also be true when it comes to product formulations. Cosmetic companies conducting research have found that there is a definite link between the appearance of our skin and our genes. This has perhaps been underplayed in the past. Now, there are facial care treatment plans being developed, which aim to revitalise the youthful genes in our skin, thus producing a radiant and wrinkle-free complexion.

STEM CELL RESEARCH Stem cell technology is no stranger to the medical world and now is becoming a key player in skincare formulations. One of the first discoveries in botanical stem cells used in cosmetics was a compound produced from apple stem cells. This unique ingredient proved that it could protect our DNA skin structure and also prevent early signs of ageing. As the credibility and capabilities of stem cells in skincare are realised, so we are continuing to see a global move of major cosmetic formulators investing and introducing this technology into their products. So what can we expect? It is important to understand that skincare specialists are not using embryonic stem cells; it is impossible to incorporate live materials into a skincare product. Instead, companies are creating products with specialised peptide and enzymes or plant stem cells which, when applied topically on the surface, help protect the human skin stem cells from damage and deterioration and stimulate the skin’s own stem cells with stronger regenerative results.

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When it comes to the skin stem cells are found near hair follicles and sweat glands and lie dormant until they “receive” signals from the body to begin the repair mode. In skincare, the use of topical products stimulates the stem cell to split into two types of cells – a new, similar stem cell and a “daughter” cell, which is able to create almost every kind of new cell in a specialised system. This means that the stem cell can receive the message to create proteins, carbohydrates and lipids to help repair fine lines, wrinkles and restore and maintain firmness and elasticity.

WHEN DID IT ALL BEGIN? ㈵

The first stem cell based product to be marketed in Britain and the USA was in 2007 when a product called ReVive’s Peau Magnifique was first launched priced at a staggering $2,000. Manufacturers claim it used an enzyme called telomerase to “convert resting adult stem

cells to newly minted skin cells and effectively resets your skin’s ageing clock” by a minimum of five years. The product claimed longterm use “will result in a generation of new skin cells, firmer skin with a 45 per cent reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and increased long-term skin clarity”. Dr Gregory Bays Brown, a former plastic surgeon, developed this product. In the course of his research into healing burns victims, Dr Brown discovered a substance called Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) that is released in the body when there is an injury, and, when applied to burns or wounds, dramatically accelerates the healing process. He believed the same molecule could be used to regenerate ageing skin and went on to develop a skincare range that was based on these molecules. Hot on the heels of Peau Magnifique was Amatokin by Voss Laboratories. Amatokin was marketed by the same people behind the StriVectin craze and launched exclusively at Bloomingdale’s in London. Amatokin works by stimulating the adult stem cell reservoirs in our skin to help rejuvenate it. From the day we are born, our skin experiences the incremental and cumulative effects of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing. When we are young, stem cell utilisation for skin rejuvenation functions efficiently, while as we age, it reduces significantly. Given the proper environment, these inherent stem cell reservoirs can be stimulated to renew the skin. Studies show that ageing and damage from UV rays and pollution cause a decrease in stem-cell production. Dr. Pincelli and LVMH Laboratories in 2008 identified key ingredients with the ability to protect the stem cells from external factors. Skin samples collected from cosmetic-surgery patients showed more stem cells in the areas where cream had been applied, because it protected existing stem cells from damage, not because it increased the number of stem cells. According to Dr. Pincelli that power is absolutely vital for epidermal regeneration and for maintaining the skin’s youthful appearance. On the other hand, it was identified that foetal skin heals in a completely different way to adult skin. Adult skin heals via an inflammatory response, involving microphages and type 1 collagen, while foetal skin, when it is healing, relies heavily on the skin’s stem cells and fibroblasts. One of the most important differences between adult and foetal skin is the fact that foetal skin heals without scarring. A wrinkle is now recognised as a small wound. For this reason scientists have been looking at ways we can activate the adult stem cells in the skin to perform in similar ways to those in foetal skin. One substance found that can up-regulate the stem cell activity of adult skin is Peptide 199, an amino acid chain derived from the Wharton Jelly, a gelatinous substance found in the umbilical cord.

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APJ 36

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On the other hand from plants, Swiss apple stem cells were identified and utilised to preserve and protect skin stem cells. These apple stem cells are rich in epigenetic factors and metabolites, assuring the longevity of skin cells, protecting their longevity and combating the effects of chronological ageing.

FURTHER PLANT STEM CELL DISCOVERIES When you think of Edelweiss one place that comes to mind is Austria and the movie The Sound of Music. Depicting the struggles of a wartorn era, the song “Edelweiss” aptly symbolised Austria’s resilience in the face of adversity. This is because the Edelweiss plant grows in harsh climates in remote mountain areas and is therefore obliged to produce a number of active substances that help protect and defend it against the elements such as UV rays. Now an Italian company, the Institute for Biotechnological Research (IRB), has released an anti-ageing ingredient based on Edelweiss stem cells. According to the Italian company the ingredient, Leontopodium alpinum, stems from the Edelweiss plant, has high concentrations of leontopodic acids A and B, which have strong antioxidant properties. IRB also claims the product has strong anticollagenase and hyaluronidase activity, therefore helping to limit the degradation of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin.

Lilac Syringa

The company uses what it refers to as its HTN technology to produce the ingredients in industrial quantities. A small amount of plant biomass is chopped into tiny pieces and placed in a culture medium. Damaging the plant in this way causes the cells that surround the damage to dedifferentiate (to turn back into stem cells) and form a wound-healing tissue called the callus.

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DERMAQUEST LAUNCHES NEW PEELS WITH STEM CELLS

Based on stem cell technology Dermaquest has just launched a new glycolic peel range – a first of its kind. The range consists of three “Professional Use Only” formulations of different strength: ! GLYCOLIC ACID RESURFACER (30%) with STEM CELLS ! GLYCOLIC ACID RESURFACER (40%) with STEM CELLS ! GLYCOLIC ACID RESURFACER (70%) with STEM CELLS

These are professional resurfacing treatments to support age management concerns and also assist with the treatment of Grade-0 non-inflammatory acne. They come in varying strengths for progressive exfoliation and to address a variety of skin conditions and concerns. The range offers a 30% glycolic strength, 40% strength and 70% strength (for physicians only). These unique resurfacers are formulated with stem cells from Lilac Syringa Vulgaris, the latest in anti-ageing technology. Their benefits include: ! Anti-oxidant and cell preservation benefits restoring skin cell proliferation after exfoliation ! Increasing cellular turnover of healthy cells ! Assist with the release of comedones ! Decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles ! Evens skin tone and texture ! Stimulate the production of collagen, elastin and GaGs in the dermal matrix ! Strontium Nitrate reduces the itching Vulgaris, and irritation often associated with peels ! Anti-inflammatory and soothing plant extracts support the skin

COLLAGEN ACTIVATING COMPLEX

Recognising the importance of rebuilding the skin after exfoliation, Dermaquest has also launched Collagen Activating Complex to support and enhance skinrenewal results after exfoliation. This advanced product contains cell-regenerating Edelweiss Leontopodium alpinum plants, including distinctive Phytostem Edelweiss plant stem cells to repair tissue The callus is then harvested and and support the reproduction and building of collagen such as grown in a cell culture medium and from this IRB obtains the plant Actifirm TS and ASCIII. Recommended for pre and poststem cells and consequently the secondary metabolites they need for professional treatment for optimal collagen restructuring and wound their products. repair. Benefits include: ! Stem cells provide antioxidant and cell-regenerating benefits as Although the technology is well known, the challenge lies in well as cell preservation successfully scaling up the production of the stem cells to industrial quantities — a problem IRB claims to have solved with its HTN ! Stimulates collagen III and elastin in the dermal layer of the skin technology. ! Increases epidermal layers as well as supports the restoration of the dermal/epidermal junction Additionally, IRB has made a further discovery through the use of ! Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles another preparation and use of stem line cultures from the common ! Slows the appearance of ageing by decreasing collagenase plant Lilac Syringa Vulgaris and has extended its patent on this activity preparation as well as on the Edelweiss plant. The company says the ! Promotes softness, firmness and elasticity of the skin active ingredient in the extract, verbascoside, is an effective ! Advanced liposome technology repairs and prevents DNA antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. Furthermore, it has an damage from UV and environmental oxygen radicals inhibitory effect on 5-alpha-reductase, an enzyme that plays a role in acne and hair loss, the company claimed. The launch of these innovative products heralds a new and exciting According to IRB, both these two botanical substances – Edelweiss and Lilac open up opportunities for a new standards in skin cell repair through the introduction of formulas with a higher level of antioxidant and cellpreserving benefits.

era in cometic formulations that promises to step up results from past treatment outcomes.

Clinic Care Phone 1300 799 709 www.cliniccare.com.au

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www.dermaquest.com.au

APJ 37

捬楮楣⁣慲攠敤 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨰㐺〰⁐


How to achieve the sharpest and most PROFESSIONAL PRESENTATION that speaks of EXCELLENCE

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What message are you communicating to your clients through your staff’s personal appearance? Is it: ! Professionalism ! Consistent high standards ! Excellent hygiene practices ! Attention to detail ! The expert

If you want to ensure that from the moment current and potentially new clients set eyes upon your staff they receive the above non-verbal messages then a crisp, sharp uniform will help you achieve that in just seconds.

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Vorei Designs are specialists in designing the perfect uniform for salons and clinics. Their meticulous attention to detail ensures that the very best fabrics, designs and finishes are implemented to perfectly meet each client’s needs. They specialise in excellent client care and are rewarded to see many of their clients increase their business performance through an upgrade in the appearance of their staff. Vorei is excited to introduce Dene Selby who has joined their team. Dene has worked in the fashion industry for many years and brings a great deal of expertise on style and personalised customer service skills to assist Vorei clients. As a qualified Image Consultant Dene can help you choose the very best style as well as colour choice. There isn’t anything Dene doesn’t know about presentation. Dene is really looking forward to meeting you when she is in Sydney on the 4th and 5th of September 2010. If you would like to book a time for a viewing for your salon or clinic please call Dene Selby on 0412 055 536 and she would be delighted to show you our collection of uniforms.

SPECIAL OFFER: All bookings made before the 31st July will receive a 5% discount on your order. Phone today and let us help you create a reputation as the most professional looking staff in your region and watch your business grow. Phone 08 9209 3299, email: sales@voreidesigns.com.au or visit.www.voreidesigns.com.au for further details.

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global view ㄰

In terms of skincare we have advances in transepidermal delivery systems and micronised skin ingredient carriers, not to mention stem cell activating formulations that work on our skin’s DNA to maintain the youthfulness of the skin and hinder its degeneration.

The Changing Face of Aesthetics – Current and Future Developments by Manon Pilon Medical Spa consultant, recognised international educator, researcher, medical aesthetician and renowned author of the book entitled Anti-Aging The Cure: Based on your Body Type, Manon Pilon has conducted seminars throughout the world, educating medical specialists, aestheticians, dermatologists, nurses, as well as plastic surgeons and several other medical professionals. Her knowledge is broad – covering advanced technologies, skin disorders and treatment protocols as well as the most successful business strategies and staff development policies to become a leader in the field of advanced aesthetics and medi-spas. She has led skincare conferences worldwide, notably in Paris, the USA, London, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Geneva and Singapore.

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We are delighted that Manon has accepted to present an in-depth workshop at this year’s AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medical and Aesthetic Conference in Melbourne on the 20-22nd August, which we believe will be the most important educational event for the Australian Aesthetics industry. To share some of her knowledge Manon has accepted to be interviewed by APJ for the benefit of our readers. We encourage you not to miss the opportunity to hear and meet her in person. Here is just a taste of some of the information she will be sharing with us. For further details please turn to page 44 for the learning objectives of her workshop – Building your Aesthetics Anti-Ageing Clinic or Medispa to be held on Sunday 22nd August, 2010 in Melbourne.

APJ1. In your opinion what are the most important changes and progress you have observed globally in the aesthetic industry? M.P. I believe the key global advancement in aesthetic therapies that I am observing would definitely have to be integration – the integration of technologies into one device that offers multiple treatment options, as well as the integration of various specialities and disciplines under the one roof. We are seeing businesses booming with the provision of the: ! Aesthetic therapist for aesthetic treatments, supported by ! Medical practitioner for internal health evaluation ! Nutritionist for nutritional evaluation and dietary support ! Plastic and Cosmetic Surgeon for aesthetic medical procedures, and even ! Psychologist for emotional and psychological issues, all under the one roof. In our clinic we no longer just evaluate the skin or the face. We always do a full face and body evaluation and measure and evaluate potential changes. We recommend annual health check-ups. These include blood tests, oxidative stress tests, fitness tests and hormonal evaluation, and we also evaluate weight-management consideration for optimal health. Our client questionnaire is a seven-page document and it cover a whole lot of areas, including all of the above assessment

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considerations as well as other areas such as Cosmetic Dentistry and Dermatology.

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I believe the future salon/clinic will be very much a specialist centre for integrative modalities that will address the client/patients’ diverse needs, either under the same room or through an efficient networking arrangement with other specialists.

APJ2. From your experience how does addressing internal wellness considerations affect skin-treatment results? Can you give us some examples? M.P. Skin disorders often are a reflection of internal imbalances. They could be triggered or the result of allergies, toxicity, inflammation, biological and oxidative stress, poor diet, nutritional deficiencies, gut dysfunction, hormonal imbalance or even genetic factors. Working closely with qualified healthcare professionals, whether they are a medical doctor, nutritionist or a naturopath, will allow the entire profile of the client to be investigated through the appropriate tests and immediate steps taken to reverse and treat the internal concerns. As a result, the individual can be restored back to better health as the cascade of hindering factors are eliminated, giving the body not only protection from potential diseases, but also supporting its wellness, longevity and its ability to respond more positively to our skin and anti-ageing treatments.

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A medical procedure can be maintained by interfacing with an appropriate aesthetics procedure to support the results and continue to enhance the appearance of the skin. Lasers can accelerate healing and support the body’s wellbeing. Pigmentation can be successfully addressed with IPL and other modalities, while permanent hair reduction is now a reality due to advances in IPL and laser technologies. Erythema and redness in the skin can now be quickly and dramatically improved through LED and IPL.

anything that affects the way we look. However, this definition has changed to reflect a more holistic approach to include internal considerations that contribute to an ageing body and not just the skin. This could involve how I manage my environment in minimising issues of toxicity, the way I address and manage the issue of stress so that I don’t age as rapidly, my psychological profile and how I view the world around me. Understanding these factors can allow me to substantially moderate how I cope with factors that will impact my mind and body and contribute to the ageing factor.

In terms of skincare we have advances in transepidermal delivery systems and micronised skin ingredient carriers, not to mention stemcell activating formulations that work on our skin’s DNA to maintain the youthfulness of the skin and hinder its degeneration. All this means that we can now deliver a great deal more than in the past, but we need to gain appropriate education and training to ensure that we are working intelligently and with credibility to achieve both safe and efficacious results.

to what they are today. There were greater limitations on what could be achieved and progress in skin improvement was very slow. Today with IPL we can remove telegiectacia, treat dilated capillaries,

APJ3. How do you define anti-ageing in terms of aesthetics and do you believe that this definition has changed during the past few years? M.P. From an aesthetic perspective anti-ageing could be considered

APJ4. Can you give us some examples as to how equipment technologies has changed the way we now can treat the skin, both in addressing skin disorders as well as for anti-ageing results? M.P. Twenty years ago, aesthetic therapies were entirely different

We now have light-emitted diode technology that offers us the capability to stimulate collagen and reduce lines and wrinkles. We can speed up skin repair and healing of acne with LED blue light that is able to destroy certain acne bacteria in just one treatment, as well as improve general health with regular use.

On a medical aesthetics level wrinkles can be filled through a variety of injectables, the whole face can be remodelled through a combination of technologies, including fillers combined with microcurrent. We now also have technologies that destroy fat and tighten tissue such as cavitation through powerful ultrasound as well as radio frequency.

When I submitted my first manuscript of my book Anti-Aging The Cure: Based on your Body Type the publishers asked me what I meant by anti-ageing. My response was that each one of us ages differently because different triggers determine how we age. The best way for me to identify these is to go back to the basics and discover who I am and identify what is going on in my body and what it needs. In my book, the study of body types offers an excellent evaluation tool to help us understand ourselves as well as others. This information empowers us to identify how the individual’s profile will point to factors that are likely to determine the way they are ageing. Once we understand these, it is easier to then charter a course of action to assist that client. ㄰

melasma and skin discolouration. Cutaneous imperfections can be treated effectively and in a very short time. All this can be achieved through a combination of advanced technologies, including ablative lasers and factional lasers. Dead skin cells can be rapidly removed with microderabrasion. We can minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in two to three treatments through combined technologies. We can measure treatment outcomes through skinanalysis technologies that can measure the exact levels of improvement we are achieving through before and after imaging and sophisticated software that can give us precise reading of skin activity below the surface of the skin.

APJ5. When selecting staff can you name the three primary considerations an employer should look for? M.P. I would have to say that the number one consideration to look for is a good attitude. This should include eagerness to learn, a happy and cheerful disposition and a positive, can-do outlook to life. These are very important qualities. The second consideration is competence. Someone who is capable, efficient and confident in what they do. The other critical attribute to look for is passion. A therapist with passion for their work can actually achieve a lot more than one who is complacent. Passion drives us to always seek a better way of doing things simply because we love what we do. It helps us to stay motivated towards progress and it allows us to enjoy what we do so we achieve our goals almost effortlessly. A person who has a good attitude, a level of competence in what they do, and is driven by passion and a love for their work, will be a true asset to your business. They will more readily embrace your vision and culture and also have a positive contribution to your work environment through their presence and disposition. When interviewing you need to ask a lot of questions so that you can determine if they possess these qualities.

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APJ6. With the plethora of competition in the area of aesthetics, what advice would you give a salon or clinic on how they can be differentiated from their competitors? What are the key areas they should focus in developing? M.P. The best you can be will lie in what you believe in. You need

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to determine what you are passionate about and what are your beliefs and convictions when it comes to your work. Then package and brand these in a way that reflects you, as this is where you will be able to give something truly unique and individual. You may have similar products to someone up the road, but your approach, your philosophy and your culture when combined will determine that very special quality that only you can deliver to your clients. This is because they are an extension of you and what you believe in. When something is marketed to express your convictions it will have a ring of integrity and authenticity about it that will draw others to you.

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APJ7. With the issue of overweight and obesity becoming an epidemic, can an aesthetic salon achieve successful results within the scope of current qualifications? M.P. Expanding your scope of services to include body treatments is a matter of progress, but is also a very individual thing. The key issue to remember is to maintain your integrity by working within the boundaries of your qualifications. However, you can expand your territory by working with other professionals who can introduce a more advanced service by contributing their skills into the scope of what you would like to introduce to your clients. The era of professional networking has definitely arrived and will play a key role in enabling us to integrate new services within our businesses.

APJ8. What areas would you encourage higher education and knowledge to a forward-thinking aesthetics therapist who wishes to prepared for future changes in the industry? M.P. I think it is important that we become aware of the global perspective of what is happening in aesthetics. I believe that the alliance that APAN has pursued with the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine is an excellent initiative. This is a very valuable relationship that will allow these two organisations to determine and establish platforms of learning and information exchange that can empower you to gain valuable knowledge and become aware of what lies ahead, and what options are available to you to embrace and undertake. You need to look outside of your own box and consider the advances in anti-ageing so that you can determine where you will fit in the scope of things. You have a responsibility to join and support such organisations that work for the benefit of your advancement and be in a position to capture this information for your benefit.

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08 9287 1766

To meet this incredible woman and attend Manon Pilon’s workshop please visit www.a5m.net and book your reservation.

APJ 42


Train with a Multi-Award Winner in ADVANCED SKIN ANALYSIS

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Training in the internationally acclaimed Pastiche Method® of Advanced Skin Analysis is available to all Australian aesthetic therapists and skin treatment practitioners following the acquisition of an exclusive Australian licence from International Dermal Science expert and skin guru Florence Barrett-Hill. And who better to deliver the training than multi-award winner and industry leader Gay Wardle.

Gay Wardle

With over 26 years of experience in the aesthetics industry Gay is not only qualified in all levels of skin analysis, she is also the owner of two highly successful salons. Winner of over 14 industry awards, the latest being the Queensland winner as well as the National winner of the Small Business Champions Awards, Gay knows what is needed to succeed Gay Wardle and the value of education in this process. “As aesthetics is progressively embracing more serious modalities in skin rejuvenation and anti-ageing it is also necessary for practitioners to ensure their diagnosis of the skin is both accurate and scientific prior to determining any treatment protocols. This is the exact objective of this training program,” Gay says. The course Gay is teaching is The Pastiche Method® for the skin-treatment professional (Level one) and covers technically advanced protocols that are non-product aligned and have been taught and practised internationally with over 5000 graduates worldwide to date. In 2004, the core of the acclaimed course became a best-selling book with thousands of therapists in 16 countries and three languages, taking their knowledge to the next level and spawning a new breed of skincare professionals. It is the core content of the book that will be presented in a three-day training program consisting of theory and practical.

Training dates for 2010 are as follows:

BRISBANE 22 &23 November (Level 2) MELBOURNE: 2, 3 and 4 August (Level 1) SYDNEY: 29 & 30 November (Level 2) 8 & 15 November (Level 2) ㄰ 㤵

Gay will be teaching the Level 1 version of the course, which is the core of the 2004 book of the same name. The pre-requisite for Level 2 is completion of the Level 1 course.

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For more information and to book your place contact Gay at ADVANCED AESTHETICS Mobile: 0418 708455 or Email: gay@advancedaesthetics.com.au www.advancedaesthetics.com.au

APJ 43


conference Introducing a new era in Aesthetics Education

AustralAsian Aesthetics Workshop 2010 BUILDING YOUR AESTHETIC ANTI-AGEING CLINIC OR MEDISPA

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Sunday 22nd August 2010 – Melbourne Gaining an objective perspective can be invaluable in helping us gain clarity in what changes we need to make and what new areas we need to implement to move forward. One of the best platforms to gain this perspective is through a carefully planned educational program or workshop.

Through a strategic alliance between the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) and APAN we are delighted to announce the return of world-renowned expert and educator Manon Pilon to conduct an in-depth, comprehensive workshop that will bring your knowledge to a whole new level. After the phenomenal success of the 2009 workshop – MEDI-SPA – Increasing Your Bottom Line, Manon Pilon will return for a followup workshop. The 2010 program is stepped-up to offer more in-depth technical information to empower both delegates who attended last year as well as offer new delegates the very latest information and strategies on how to Build Your Aesthetic Anti-Ageing Clinic or Medispa. At this workshop Manon will address more technical subjects, taking your knowledge further by focusing on why and how to implement specific strategies in a step-by-step process. For the first time she will address how to integrate technologies to achieve more advanced results to meet the challenges of an ever-growing demanding clientele, while boosting your profits. Here is what you can expect:

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PROGRAM OUTLINE: Principles and Strategies for Successful AntiAgeing Clinics or Medi-spas

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Step-by-step approach for guaranteed results Developing a strategy that allows for expansion Key considerations that will support your credibility How to profile and differentiate yourself in the market place Effective branding strategies

Effective use of Technologies

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Research and development of a menu that meets with your clients’ needs Why you should not compromise on quality if you want profits How to make cost not an issue Names and descriptions that will sell your services Important considerations in communicating technical information How to effectively market the value of packages

Equipment overview Which technologies are the market leaders and supported through research How cells respond to different technologies Equipment integration and why this will define the future

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Slimming and Wellness Concepts

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Global trends in wellness and weight loss The value and benefit of incorporation slimming and body wellness modalities Proven slimming concepts and the value of body types Successful partnerships with healthcare professionals Designing a slimming program for credible results How body wellness impacts the skin

Salon Culture & Etiquette

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Psychology and the objectives of a memorable culture Defining etiquette and the role this plays in client retention and satisfaction Matching your culture to the needs of your clients Why your culture needs to be reviewed Effective training strategies for staff compliance What rules must be rigid and when to be flexible

Skin Analysis update

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How to establish and grow an aesthetic anti-ageing practice or medi-spa Choosing the best technologies and how to integrate them for the best results How to formulate your services for results and profit Learn successful weight loss and slimming strategies and double your revenue Key considerations that identify a memorable salon/clinic culture Scientific skin analysis and body-type considerations for optimum results What are the most credible ingredients in skincare and grooming products Learn how to prepare for industry changes and for future growth

Converting your Services to a Profitable Business

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:

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Protocol considerations when using multiple technologies The power of synergy and why it works

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The role and value of correct skin analysis and body types Key considerations for product selection Key considerations when determining a treatment plan Determining the causes of ageing Determining factors that may impact on treatment response The role and limitations of technologies for skin analysis

Ingredients with proven credibility

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The latest and most credible scientifically validated skincare ingredients Which ingredients will benefit inflammatory conditions The truth about whether you can mix products What ingredients in grooming items will best support your treatment results The role of carriers in product penetration How to avoid the marketing hype when selecting a product range

For the first time this program will qualify delegates with one Credit Point

Australasian Certification in Anti-Ageing Medicine Program.

to an Elective for the

Phone A5M on 03 9813 0439 or visit www.a5m.net today to register, and if you are an APAN member quote your membership number to receive 10% discount.

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ustralAsian esthetics Workshop AN ELECTIVE OF THE AUSTRALASIAN CERTIFICATION IN ANTI-AGEING MEDICINE

BUILD YOUR AESTHETIC ANTI-AGEING CLINIC OR MEDISPA WITH MANON PILON Boost your career and build your practice at the inaugural AustralAsian Aesthetics Workshop 2010 presented by world recognised Aesthetics & Anti-Ageing Clinic expert, Manon Pilon. The AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine has partnered with the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd (APAN) to host Ms Pilon. With more than 20 years of Aesthetics & Anti-Ageing Practice expertise, Manon founded some of the world’s most successful Aesthetics Practices and MediSpas. Manon is a renowned Medical Spa consultant, recognised educator, researcher, medical aesthetician, International Director of Education for “Derme.ca” and author of the book entitled ‘Anti-Aging - The Cure: Based on your Body Type’. The AustralAsian Aesthetics Workshop will offer career and business development and a detailed introduction to Anti-Ageing Medicine. You will be guided “STEP-BY-STEP” on how to achieve a successful Aesthetic Anti-Ageing Practice or Medispa. All delegates will receive a Certificate of Attendance which will count as your first elective of The AustralAsian Certification in Anti-Ageing Medicine. The inaugural Certification provides in-depth clinical education on how to incorporate Anti-Ageing Medicine in your treatments. See www.a5m.net for more information. LEARNING OUTCOMES Ø Ø Ø Ø Ø Ø Ø Ø Ø

Identify Step-by-Step strategies on how to establish and grow your Aesthetic Anti-Ageing Practice or Medi-Spa to achieve success. Prepare for future growth and industry changes - discuss what it takes to transition to a Medi-Spa/ Aesthetic Medical Clinic. Discuss which technologies will give you the best results and why. Look at how to best intergrade them into your clinic. Examine what to look for when evaluating the skin for optimum skin and anti-ageing results. Develop business strategies and service recommendations – how to create a dynamic partnership Examine what ingredients to look for in grooming items to support your results. Discover why you should expand your treatment modalities to include full body wellness. Discuss successful weight loss and slimming strategies for great results – becoming an expert consultant. Examine the most important keys to a successful salon culture. What message are you communicating to your clients through your etiquette?

CALLING AESTHETIC PROFESSIONALS Attendance at the AustralAsian Aesthetics Workshop 2010 is credited towards an elective of The AustralAsian Certification in Anti-Ageing Medicine for Allied Health Professionals, Aestheticians & Paramedicals.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 22, 2010 Sofitel Melbourne on Collins 9.00AM – 5.00PM Members: $450* Others: Phone: Register:

$500 + 61 3 9813 0439 www.a5m.net

* A5M & APAN members are eligible for the members rate.


research ㄰

What are your clients saying about you? Our Survey Reveals by Tina Viney Within a publication such as APJ you will gain a great deal of educational information on new technologies and their capabilities. You are given insight into research findings and your whole focus will more than likely be directed towards understanding the new advances in formulations and equipment and what results we can expect to gain from them. But what about looking at our profession from the consumer’s point of view? After all, they are the ones we need to please and their opinion and observations are valid and should be also considered as equally important.

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As a research exercise APAN has interviewed several clients from various States who were prepared to share their views so that we could determine their observations. In this article of APJ we reveal the results of this survey as well as some of their comments. The terms of the interview stipulated that the clients’ identity would be protected to allow them the freedom to express their opinion truthfully. For this reason only their initials and their State will be identified, all other information is fully disclosed. I trust that you will find their comments insightful as we explore how they view their experiences with services they receive from professional salons and clinics. “Eight years ago I went through a divorce and was adamant to improve my appearance. Back then my beauty therapist gave me

regular facials with beautiful-feeling products that refreshed my face and made me feel comforted and rested. However, in terms of results there was nothing noteworthy or long-term that I could observe. Two or three days after my facial my skin seemed to revert to how it was previously. “After my divorce I visited a plastic surgeon and undertook several procedures, including rhinoplasty, eye-lift and laser skin resurfacing. The results were amazing even though the procedures were costly and quite traumatic.” “Five years later my skin started to show lines and looked tired, so I undertook another laser procedure, this time with Fraxel laser. Since then I was introduced to a more progressive beauty therapist and even though I was very fond of my previous one she was no longer meeting my needs. Her concern was more about making sure the price was right for me than in recommending what I needed.” “As I am a socially very active person who is approaching 60, I am keen in supporting the results I have received from my investment. My new therapist explained that we needed to step up my facial to a full rejuvenation package. She recommended and used several technologies through an in-depth series of treatments that improved my skin immensely. Her whole approach was professional and highly systematic and her focus is on giving me the best possible results.

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APJ 46

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This therapist is not as personable as my previous one, and I do miss our social chitchat with my previous therapist, but times have changed and with the way the economy is now I cannot abandon myself to frivolous spending. I now pay almost double what I did per visit previously, but I am getting value for money and above all, incredible results. The financial issue is important, but for me the deciding factor was in considering whether the investment was worth it. I am now getting the results in terms of skin maintenance, and may I venture to also say that I am also seeing continued improvement.” C. J., Perth, WA.

“I am a redhead and have very sensitive skin that is susceptible to dryness and lines. I am 63 years of age so anti-ageing procedures are of great value to me. My therapist very carefully examined my skin and assessed what it could tolerate. She also used various formulations to improve my skin’s immunity and tolerance. She now can use microdermabasion, skin needling and a variety of other technologies, which my skin can now tolerate, and as a result I have seen great improvement over the years in the clarity, brightness and smoothness of my skin. When I first started these treatments several years ago with my current therapist her treatments were more basic. However, as she is so passionate in continuing her education and training she never ceases to amaze me with new technologies she keeps introducing. I am thrilled to say that through her treatments my skin has become more resilient and I now have very little sensitivity. The immunity of my skin has improved and I can tolerate stronger treatments, particularly over the past four years. My skin seems to retain a lot more moisture, but the most dramatic results I have seen have been on my neck, which has now improved in texture and tone through Fraxel laser treatments.” “I fully trust my therapist and leave the choice of technology to her as I have come to respect her judgement and her knowledge. I am also using her recommended products for maintenance at home and I have become very aware of the difference this has also made. Some of the treatments over the years have become more intensive, but the results are worth it.” M.C., Mona Vale, NSW.

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“Without a doubt I know that the treatments I am now receiving from my beauty therapist have not only helped my skin, but have also contributed to making me feel more relaxed and confident. When I enter the wonderful, serene environment of her clinic I feel so relaxed and nurtured and often struggle to stay awake. Over the years I have had several technologies that were at times quite uncomfortable, but because of the results they promised I have tolerated them. It is now wonderful to see that more sophisticated versions of the same technologies are superseding the old models and can offer better results without the discomfort in their application. I no longer need to be put through agony in order to see excellent skin rejuvenation. I am currently undergoing micro-current treatments supported by LED, which is so soothing and nurturing. It has even allowed me to sleep better and I feel my quality of life has improved. My skin is firmer and younger-looking and the other day one of my friends asked me if I had had a facelift. It’s wonderful to gain such compliments. I can no longer live without my aesthetician, as she now prefers to be called. I am sure these wonderful treatments have not only taken years off my face, but no doubt eliminated some of the stress in my life, giving me much-needed wellness benefits as well.” E. B., Victoria. “I suffered from severe acne, which caused me a great deal of stress. My beauty therapist worked diligently and put me through various treatment regime,s including glycolic peels, microdermabrasion, a variety of masks and several skincare products, which I had to use at home. Despite her determination, I really did not see a great deal of improvement. As soon as my skin appeared to pick up I then suddenly would get a severe breakout. Later my beauty therapist spoke to me about working with a naturopath who was consulting at her salon once a week. The naturopath requested some blood tests and identified certain allergies as well as a highly toxic liver, which was contributing to suppressing my immune system. I have now been working with the naturopath in conjunction with my beauty therapist. She has introduced me to an internal cleansing program that is supported with digestive enzymes and some liver-stimulating herbs as well as essential fatty acids. As a result, I am finally seeing my skin starting to clear and I am also losing weight, which is an added bonus. I have also noted that the overall texture of my skin looks healthier and I am now responding better to my facial treatments. My beauty therapist has now introduced me to some herbal peels and I am also having sessions with LED blue light to which my skin is now responding very positively. It is encouraging to finally see results and I am eternally grateful to my beauty therapist for seeking to work with a healthcare professional in order to finally get a breakthrough with my skin. I now see some light at the end of the tunnel.” J. T., S. Australia.

SURVEY RESULTS

One the left is a sample of some of the comments we have received from our Australia-wide survey. From a pool of 100 clients we conducted a phone survey and asked them several questions to ascertain the contributing factors that determined what was important to them in order to remain loyal to their salon and their therapists. The age group of the clients was 35-65.

Question 1: Is price the most important factor in continuing your beauty therapy treatments? 10% said yes, it is very important. 15% said maybe. 75% said not the most important issue.

Question 2: How important is it to you that your beauty therapist is committed to on-going education and stays in touch with progress and new developments? 100% said yes, this was very important to them.

Question 3: How important is a satisfactory result in determining if you remain with your beauty therapist? 90% said that results were the determining factor for remaining with their therapist. 10% said they enjoyed the visit and were not looking for anything outstanding.

Question 4: How important is value for money as a deciding factor to remain with your therapist? 95% said they do look for value for money and appreciate their salon gives them special offers. 5% said they don’t check this out as they only do standards treatments.

Question 5: How important is the relationship you have with your beauty therapist and would you stay loyal to them even if there was a better offer up the road? 80% said that due to the economic times they would consider other salons if they were offering better services and prices. 20% said they had confidence in their therapist and would not be looking elsewhere for a better offer.

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APJ 47

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business ㄰

Shifting trends in CONSUMER PERCEPTION of Marketing and Branding by Tina Viney

There is a certain comfort in engaging in our activities with systematic repetition and routine precision, while performing our tasks in a way that is familiar and convenient. But when do we consider and question whether what worked last year is still working today, and do we need to review and re-evaluate whether we are positioned correctly to accommodate the current rapidly changing needs of consumer demand? My on-going research in the world of aesthetics and business has made me aware of the shifting trends of consumer perception of what is being said through marketing campaigns and branding exercises.

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If you own a business you would be familiar with the relevance of branding and how you need to ensure that consumers and potential clients are very clear about your image through your communication with them. Your brand may be the look and feel of what your services portray and what you wish to communicate to potential clients. Most of the astute salon owners I interact with are very particular about how they want their business to present and how they want the consumers to view them. They want to be in control of the “message” that is portrayed, whether that is excellence, quality, uniqueness or even prestige. However, what attributes do consumers look for and how have their tastes and wants changed?

The traditional approach to branding emphasises about the look and feel of your logo and what it stands for in terms of how it is perceived and how it is marketed. Interestingly enough, however, the rules are changing and branding in 2010 is progressively defined by consumers with a different set of expectations. The latest research clearly points to some major shifts in the way consumers now perceive a brand and where they are putting their trust. Increasingly we are seeing that buyers are assessing brands by “who” they are, what they stand for, and what they do, not by what they sell or what they say. Today, the consumer is just as likely to “brand” a company rather than accept that company’s interpretation of their image. The shift is now all about conduct. This can be “good” as with companies such as “Amazon.com”, or it may be “bad” as with the case of “Tiger Woods”.

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Experts tell us that the trappings of incumbency for such things as a guarantee of repeat business are rapidly fading in an era of too much choice for consumers. With a saturated marketplace that is totally commodity bombarded, even quality is no longer the differentiator. In fact, according to branding expert Reg Bryson who runs Brand Council, a branding agency in Sydney and who has over 30 years’ experience in this area, there is a

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major shift in what is now working and what consumers are looking for. “All the effort spent on marketing – which has for decades driven product improvements and new sales channels, isn’t working any more,” he says. According to his observations, in the 1980s it was all about materialism, about the quality of the commodity. In the 1990s it was about individualism (uniqueness), and in the 2000s it was about collectiveness, but he stresses that 2010 and beyond is going to be about spirituality – in other words ethics, moral perspective and integrity and the honesty of company and products that will determine consumer loyalty. In a world of high competition and exaggerated claims, consumers are now looking beyond the hype and slick advertising in search of honesty and integrity. One of Bryson’s favourite quotes is the rather prophetic one by Edward de Bono about how business could no longer compete by being competitive; de Bono said that while competition is essential for survival, it has run its course as the driver for success. So, what’s the link to brand? According to Bryson the thing that is working now is the philosophy-led approach to defining what it is that you’re about, and it is this approach that will ensure that you will be in business for the long haul. In his opinion many businesses do not know who they are. The business of business is no longer just about being a business – you actually have to work out what you stand for and what are your reasons for remaining in the marketplace. If you were to go, what would your clients lose?

! ! !

Helps foster trust and loyalty from consumers Promotes the practices/business as having integrity Boosts standards of performance and profits

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As with medical ethics, aesthetic ethics is primarily a field of applied ethics, the study of moral values and judgements as they apply to the practice. As a scholarly discipline, medical and aesthetic ethics encompasses its practical application in clinical settings as well as work on its history, philosophy and sociology. The more we interface with the medical profession the more our ethics should reflect similar principles through our conduct.

KEY ELEMENTS For a Code of Ethics to be effective it requires that it addresses several key areas of conduct. When formulating our own Code of Ethics for the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network’s (APAN) we examined five key areas of conduct and behaviour. These included: 1. Practitioner/Client relationships 2. Referrals 3. Education and Compliance 4. Business and Financial Dealings 5. Professional Conduct

Today, the consumer is just as likely to “brand” a company rather than accept that company’s interpretation of their image. The shift is now all about conduct.

In the aesthetics industry the emerging tool that is helping shape what we stand for is a Code of Ethics or Code of Practice. So what is the significance of an Ethics Code and how can it help a business to grow, gain consumer acknowledgment and recognition and why is this so?

PURPOSE-DRIVEN CONDUCT

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So what is a Code and what is its purpose? An Ethics Code consists of a set of rules and guidelines that are developed and adopted by an organisation for the purpose of guiding members of that organisation when called upon to make a decision. Their objective is to assist members to identify and understand what is considered the difference between “right” and “wrong” and to apply this understanding to their decision and ultimately to their conduct. The purpose therefore of a Code is to influence the behaviour of its members. These guidelines involve defining correct procedures to be used in specific ethical situations where an action may affect the reputation of the business or practice, and ultimately, the reputation of the profession as a whole. Furthermore, the Code also adds value and benefit to the business in the following ways: ! Minimises risk ! Protects against insurance liability being rejected ! Supports regulatory compliance ! Creates uniform ethical conduct among staff ! Helps shape the culture of the establishment as one of high standards

Each of these areas was mapped thoroughly against not only regulatory issues, but also modern practices and emerging needs for networking with other professionals. As a Standards Body and Networking Organisation, APAN’s objective is to provide relevance to its members and open up new levels of standards to ensure that the aesthetic industry has the tools to move forward with confidence and embrace advancement and progress. Our aim is to provide tools that offer real benefit and solutions to the industry. As such, we identified two key considerations that are currently not practised by other bodies: ! ANNUAL REVIEW – In order for the APAN Code of Ethics to maintain relevance it must be annually reviewed for potential updates. Any amendments will then be presented to the organisation’s external Advisory Council for review and comment. This Council consists of leaders in their field who are experienced in organisational structure and policy development. ! STAFF INDUCTION – In thoroughly reviewing the purpose of a Code we identified that it does not fulfil its purpose unless it is implemented within an establishment’s staff induction program. A Code that is signed and filed or just sits on the wall of a business

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proprietor is ineffective unless every staff member of that establishment is conducting themselves in accordance with its requirements.

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As such, APAN has mapped out a Staff Induction Program to allow the APAN Code to be incorporated into a staff-training program. In that way all staff members must understand their responsibility in complying with the Code of Conduct that will ensure and build that establishment’s credibility and contribute to the culture and image they portray to their clients.

As aesthetics is now embracing more advanced modalities and anti-ageing protocols, it stands to reason that our posture and our protocols within our profession, as well as our interaction with our clients, must take on a more professional approach. What that means is that ethics and conduct needs to be stepped up to meet this challenge.

PRIVACY POLICY Another area that has been carefully developed is a Privacy Policy that complies with recent regulatory changes and is designed to correctly address the activities of an aesthetic salon or clinic. As more advanced procedures including nutrition and slimming are now entering the arena of aesthetic services, so a client’s medical records are becoming more relevant. This necessitates that a client’s medical history needs to be taken into consideration – an issue that was not so relevant perhaps 10 years ago. Again this document needs to be mapped correctly to our industry’s activities and it must adequately reflect the relevant regulatory requirements on how records are handled. Additionally, it must make sure that this information is available for full disclosure to the client or patient in the event that they wish to access their records. This also means that all staff members need to adhere to the necessary protocols that this document stipulates. It is pointless to have a Privacy Policy if the staff has not been trained to implement it. Do you have a Privacy Policy and are you and your staff adhering to its requirements? APAN has formulated as part of its Corporate Package a Privacy Policy that will allow an establishment to identify immediately how they need to comply and to incorporate these requirements within their Staff Training Protocols.

STAYING IN TOUCH WITH GLOBAL TRENDS

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The objective of APAN as an industry organisation is to support the industry with up-to-date tools and assist each member to be in control of their destiny and their survival as a therapist and a business. It grieves me to see (just from our networking activity records) that over 300 businesses have ceased to operate during the past three months, most of whom could be assisted with strategies for surviving if they had chosen to belong to an organisation such as APAN and seek its assistance. If you are struggling don’t close your doors before exploring all the options. Your decision should be based on a thorough and objective review of the options and not on an emotional decision based on fear. APAN is equipped to give you some objective recommendations – this is one of the purposes and benefits of membership.

YOU HAVE OPTIONS When the organisation was established last year we were offering three levels of membership. However, further investigations have led us to simplify this process. Currently there are two membership categories that you can join: ! GENERAL MEMBERSHIP, which allows for unlimited enquiries for assistance of a brief nature ! CORPORATE MEMBERSHIP, which allows you four in-depth mentoring sessions where a great level of skill, time, support and recommendations can be offered to assist an establishment to review and explore all their options for survival and growth. This service also includes, if necessary, letters or document writing to support that member’s needs.

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There are numerous other services available to our members – too many to include in this article, so please check them on our website www.apanetwork.com. Mentoring is a service designed to meet the challenges of our current volatile economic times, and the businesses that have accessed them have gained the support they were looking for. For them it has made the difference between surviving and going broke. Furthermore, APAN has conducted thorough due diligence research and identified 10 companies with whom we have negotiated member-benefits and established strategic alliances for quality services for its members at the best possible rates. We have put in a great deal of work to ensure that we are offering our members tangible benefits that are relevant and up-to-date to ensure that the industry receives excellent support that will make a real difference to their survival and their growth. Further details are available about our Strategic Partners on pages 17 and 18 . Daily, we monitor global changes and utilise this information to empower our members to be the very best in their chosen profession and their businesses. If you believe that APAN can be of help to you, now is the time to join. Being the end of the financial year means that you will receive an immediate tax deduction and for this reason our membership has been established to run from 1st July to 30th June – based on a FINANCIAL YEAR rather than a CALENDAR YEAR, which is from January to December.

To join or renew your membership visit www.apanetwork.com and download an Application Form and be in the draw also for the $20,000 Business Stimulus Package of products and services. For further information you can email me direct on info@apanetwork.com phone 07 5593 0360, or visit our website: www.apanetwork.com

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The Contemporary Aesthetician’s Point of Difference

Successful Anti-Ageing results with long-term benefits

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by Mariza Nuttal The advent of multi-layered technologies is proving so successful in restoring a youthful appearance and improving skin and body tone that it has now become mainstream within the aesthetic industry. Consumer expectations have risen and the salon that is not prepared to deliver these results risks losing their clients to other more progressive salons or clinics. So what is driving this trend and what are some of the latest tools to help us achieve the new standards in aesthetic treatments? Here Mariza Nuttal, director of Good Looking Beauty, shares her views and profiles a new generation technology.

Due to media pressure the smooth, flawless face and body is coveted by every generation. Statistic confirm that antiwrinkle and anti-ageing treatments such as Botox® are now explored by individuals as early as in their 20s and 30s. You will find that those from the Y-generation are avid seekers and they investigate knowledge on what is current, even more so than the X and W generations ever were or are today. Those who are trend-setters will invest above all in their appearance, while realising that preservation is far easier than more drastic measures such as the scalpel. They also understand that serious repair is costly and more traumatic (and trauma scares the Y generation). So when you are planning your service menu remember that anti-ageing is not just about the Baby Boomer, make sure you also cater for the younger imageconscious generations.

TOOLS OF THE TRADE So what tools are available to us and what results can be expected? You now can achieve incredible results that can even rival injectables through a combination of protocols with the latest high-tech treatments. New advancements in equipment can now make it possible to significantly improve any skin type, while offering results for a younger-looking, fresher complexion. Clients may continue to come to you requesting their standard procedure, while quietly yearning you will recommend something new that will progressively improve their results. Often, clients are pleasantly surprised that great results can be achieved with high tech treatments in a much quicker timeframe than anticipated. But prior to any such treatment a full and thorough client consultation is vital to determining what treatment package will deliver the desired results.

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There are many technologies now available, each with their own capabilities and liminations. These include Intense Pulsed Light, Microdermabrasion, Peels, Light Emitting Diodes and even Sonophoresis (Ultrasound), but the newest of these

technologies available creating a global stir is the Fusion MPR technology. The Fusion MPR technology (imported from Italy) is a stateof-the-art Radio Frequency heating source through the use of both monopolar and bipolar procedures. Deep and superficial uniform heating can be delivered to tighten and contour both the skin and underlying tissue. Concurrently, the cool air sprayed by the handpiece tip and the thermoelectric coupling tip cool the epidermis. The Fusion consists of a 350-watt radiofrequency of 1 MHz range. The differentiating factor between the Fusion MPR system and other radiofrequency devices is the versatile treatment applications

MONOPOLAR refers to a device having one pole or electrode. With monopolar delivery, the current from the generating machine flows through the body from a single electrode (hand piece) and meets maximum resistance in the area around the tip of the handpiece, thus heating tissue in the sub-dermal layers. A grounding or “return pad” is used, generally attached to the client’s lower back, to provide a lowresistance pathway for the current to flow back to the generating machine, to complete the electrical circuit. BIOPOLAR refers to a device having two poles or electrode. With bipolar delivery, the current from the generating machine flows only through tissue, which is between the two electrodes on the handpiece; these electrodes start and complete the electrical circuit. Hence, with bipolar delivery no current flows through the rest of the body, so no grounding or return pad is needed. The benefits are that it can perform a diverse range of treatments including: ! Non-surgical facelifts ! Cellulite reduction ! Firms and tones the skin ! Reduces fine lines and wrinkles ! Improve skin texture for pre and post-liposuction treatments The system comes complete with a LCD touch screen and three handpieces for face and body with a built-in cooling system. It is mounted on wheels for easy storage and movement throughout the salon. In summary, the combination of using these new innovative technologies will enable the salon to achieve impressive results for their clients’ skin and body needs that are long lasting, while minimising and sometimes eliminating the need for costly surgery. Furthermore, these treatments offer not only great results, but are also pleasant, nurturing and support the client’s wellness, while improving their appearance.

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LOCAL TESTIMONIAL: Ibby Meherne – Owner of The Look by Ibby “The Fusion MPR is an all-in-one piece of equipment that offers visible dramatic changes to the face and body from the first treatment. It can treat a variety of my clients’ concerns from cellulite reduction, body shaping and firming and toning, as well as facial toning and contouring with effective nonsurgical facelifting results. The Fusion keeps my clients coming back for more!”

GLOBAL TESTIMONIAL: ㄰

Sue Machesney – Owner of Bellaza Beauty in Dublin

“Fusion MPR is the most thrilling, non-invasive, body-shaping technique because it treats not only the skin, but also unsightly fat deposits. The Fusion is designed to uniformly heat the dermis with radiofrequency energy (RF). The increased temperature delivered to the dermis results in collagen stimulation with new collagen production. The results are firmer, younger-looking skin.”

Mariza Nuttall is a qualified aesthetician and a CIDESCO diplomat since 1995 and has also undertaken extensive studies in Paris. She obtained her Confederation of International Beauty Therapy and Cosmetology in London. Highly committed to education, Mariza was a very active member of CIDESCO Section in South Africa and has been a guest speaker in numerous expos and aesthetic conferences both here and internationally. Mariza’s talent and multi-skilling capabilities have led to her designing several spas and salons, both here and overseas. She is currently the principal and managing director of Good Looking Beauty, a highly successful product distribution company, which has been established in Australia for seven years. Mariza is the APAN Representative for NSW and is a stronger believer and supporter of its mission and purpose. To contact Mariza or Good Looking Beauty phone 02 9894 8068 or email info@goodlookingbeauty.com.au. You can also visit the website www.goodlookingbeauty.com.au

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APJ 53

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The Ultimate Warm Winter Mask for Boosting Hydration and Anti-Ageing Benefits Winter is the perfect season when your clients’ skin would welcome a little extra stimulation as well as some nurturing. With the colder months the skin is more susceptible to dryness and dehydration, as pores tighten in an attempt to conserve heat within the body. As a result, during this season more than any other season, the skin can greatly benefit from treatments that improve circulation and heat the skin, thus drawing oxygen and nutrients to the surface via the blood, as well as through substances applied to the skin.

making it particularly effective in tightening pores, relieving and reducing the appearance of pigmentation and treating the incidence of scarring. Its specific herbal mix contains anti-ageing and antibacterial elements, which are further enhance by the probiotic qualities of yoghurt and/or the lactic acid of organic milk. Together these ingredients offer synergistic benefits with powerful anti-oxidant properties to refine the pores, soften and tone the skin, improve hydration levels and promote clarity and smoothness.

One of the most impressive and results-orientated treatments in a

The OmVeda Thermo-Herbal Mask is enriched with vitamins and minerals. Creating an occlusive barrier it enhances cellular respiration, through the added warming of the mask. This increases skin temperature, opening the pores, while activating glandular secretion. The occlusive nature of the clay mask further activates the ingredients within the Skin Rejuvenating Mask releasing their nutrients that deeply nourish and hydrate the skin, while increase in circulation and lymphatic flow.

thermal clay mask, an excellent

example is the

OmVeda

Thermal Facial Retual. The OmVeda Signature Thermo Facial features a double mask treatment to target and address the multiple concerns of ageing. Using pure herbs made to traditional Ayurvedic formulations, which have the ability to penetrate the skin for exceptional and long lasting results. The combined nutritive action of the masks in this specialist treatment is enhanced by the addition of fresh ingredients such as fresh organic milk, yoghurt or eggs.

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The two Masks include the

OmVeda Skin Rejuvenator and

the Thermo-Herbal, which together provide deep cleansing, rejuvenating, revitalising and lifting benefits.

Helping detoxify and decongest, the

OmVeda Skin

Rejuvenator Mask is a unique blend of Ayurvedic herbs and

vegetable extracts such as Lentils, Saffron, Wheat and Almonds

The Thermo-Mask contains calcium carbonate, clay, (a rich source of minerals, such as iron, magnesium, zinc, potassium, calcium and silica), gall oak, rose petal powder and winter cherry. The root of the winter cherry is a vital ingredient in Ayurveda, used for many skin disorders. Once the mask in mixed it progressively hardening, stimulating the skin’s deeper layers naturally boosting collagen activity, diminishing dullness and sun damage. The OmVeda Thermo Herbal Mask delivers multiple benefits at different levels of the skin, while lifting and toning the skin and the features. Introducing this multi-purpose mask will provide your clients with a wonderful experience and exceptional, long-lasting results of boost nourishment and tone.

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APJ 54

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For less a week than the “Coffee & Cake” Special at your local…

you can join as a Member of APAN – Australia’s leading Network and Standards Body for Beauty Therapists and Aesthetic Practitioners

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…and be in the draw to win your own ㈵

$20,000

BUSINESS STIMULUS PACKAGE

Drawn 5 September 2010

Sponsors:

ORK

TW

STHETI AE C

S ER

Staff Skills Audit valued at $5000 – 1-to-1 Beauty Therapy Training www.beautytraining.com.au Equipment valued at $3,800 – Clinical Skincare, CTI PRA TION Healthcare & Equipment www.clinicalskincare.com.au S Leading cosmeceutical skincare valued at $2,680 – Indio Cosmeceuticals www.indioskincare.com Advanced Skin Analysis Training valued at $2,500 – A Advanced Aesthetics www.advancedaesthetics.com.au DV E I S O RY N Business Coaching Package valued at $2,500 – Australia’s B e a u t y B u s i n e s s Leading Network Standards Body N e l s o n www.nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com Nutraceutical products valued at $2,000 – Bio Concepts www.bioconcepts.com.au Professional Makeup stock and training valued at $1500 – Natural Compatibles www.naturalcompatibles.com.au Professionally designed Uniforms valued at $1,000 – Vorei Design www.voreidesigns.com.au Customised promotional and printing valued at $650 – 4CP Promotional Products & Graphic Design www.4cp.com.au Rooibos Tea Pack valued at $300 – Vital Health Products www,vitalhealthfoods.com.au Business Standards Pack valued at $650 – from APAN.

Join today!

AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Queensland 4218 Phone 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com For Member Benefits and to Download an Application Form to Join visit www.apanetwork.com

PROCEDURE Following a cleanse and tone, the OmVeda Skin Rejuvenator Mask is blended to a paste, brushed onto the skin and exfoliated off using a circular motion. Skin is then treated to a soothing facial massage using a combination of the

OmVeda Night

Nourishing Cream (enriched with Almond, Vetiver and wild Date) and Saffron Oil, a luxurious blend of Saffron, Turmeric, Indian Rose Chestnut and Lotus. Together, these products work to reduce facial tension, deliver deep nourishment, guard against moisture loss, while diminishing the appearance of wrinkles. The OmVeda Thermo Herbal Mask with its fortifying and active properties is then applied to the face and neck. Like a mini face lift, the OmVeda Thermo Herbal with its high nutrient levels improves firmness, restores the skin’s vitality and delivers immediate results in skin tone, texture, clarity and feel. The Mask is removed and the skin is spritzed with Rose Toner to further refine the pores, cool and hydrate the skin and prepare for moisturising. The OmVeda Rose Toner is an excellent skin refresher, while cooling and hydrating. Formulated with rose petals and dates, this is an enriching and soothing tonic that contains no alcohol or preservatives. Final steps are application

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Honey Sandalwood Moisturiser and OmVeda Eye Cream. A treatment that offers unbeatable results

of

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through the purest possible ingredients. ㈵

For more information please call OmVeda on 1 300 662 383 Email: info@omveda.com.au or visit www.omveda.com.au

潭癥摡 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲〺㌵⁐


new Biomimetic: the ‘anti-ageing’ strategy

For many years, anti-ageing skincare has been dominated by a tendency to force the skin into daily exfoliation using a variety of aggressive and acidic substances. Research has shown that this was an effective way to keep the signs of premature ageing at bay. As with most things in life, there is another side to the coin – one that is less attractive. Experts are warning about the negative consequences of dehydration and irritation, of interference with the natural processes of the skin and the potential destruction of collagen and elastin fibres caused by long-term inflammatory responses. Concerns about the effects of such an aggressive approach are increasingly leading formulators to shift their focus to cell renewal for the answer to younger, more radiant-looking skin. It is an approach that works with the skin and supports its natural rebuilding processes. Ways are being sought to encourage the skin’s own mechanism of cell renewal and to protect existing cells from damage. An effective anti-ageing regime will always consist of two components: a corrective modality, followed by support and maintenance. By their very nature, corrective skin treatments will be aggressive. Some level of trauma has to be inflicted to achieve the desired correction. During re-epithelialisation the barrier function of the skin is impaired, often leading to excessive trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), accompanied by hyper-sensitivity, irritation and inflammation. At this point, the body’s natural healing response takes over. The best course of action is to apply topical formulations designed to protect and support the skin during the recovery process. The aim should be to restore conditions conducive to rapid healing and normalization of the skin. Potential skin irritants such as acids should be avoided. A biomimetically derived formulation, designed to reduce moisture loss and containing skin-identical substances, will ensure best results.

The term ‘biomimetic’ or ‘biomimicry’ refers to the transfer of biological methods found in nature to technical applications – in simple terms, to copy nature. The idea is not new – Leonardo da Vinci drew on inspiration from nature to design a flying machine. A more recent example is the Speedo Fastskin FSII Suit worn by American Swimmer Michael Phelps at the 2008 Beijing Olympics, which imitates the effect of shark skin in the water. Dr. Horst Spiller has transferred this philosophy to cosmetics. The healthy acid mantle is a natural emulsion of the type ‘water-in-oil’ combining sebum (lipids) and water. It contains a range of chemicals such as amino acids, sodium PCA, urea and more. The intact, fullfunctioning acid mantle is the main reason young, healthy skin looks like it does – radiant, well-hydrated and even in tone. This pleasing appearance is not achieved by force and it cannot be reproduced by force. Once the corrective phase of a treatment cycle is completed, the best choice is to mimic the conditions found in the healthy acid mantle and then get out of the way to let nature do what it does best. A formulation developed along biomimetic lines will lead to a quick re-establishment of the epidermal barrier, followed by superior hydration of the stratum corneum thus leading to a significant reduction in erythema. It creates an optimal environment for cellular repair. Dermatologists have been aware of this for years. The problem is that standard formulation technology dictates that water in oil emulsions will have an oil content around the 50 per cent mark. Such creams are too rich in lipids and too heavy to be acceptable to today’s consumer. It is not widely known that formulation technology exists today that allows the production of water in oil emulsions with a lipid content as low as 19 per cent. This type of formulation, developed by Dr. Horst Spiller of Dr. Spiller Biocosmetic in Germany, is rich in skin identical substances, vitamins, powerful anti-oxidants and other skin-friendly actives. It can be truly termed ‘biomimetic’ – it reproduces the acid mantle as closely as possible. For ultimate care following a corrective treatment, this cream would contain peptides which, in trials at the US National Institutes of Health, have been shown to stimulate the natural rebuilding processes without irritating the skin.


Working with your skin, not against it The aim: To provide an effective solution for a variety of skin conditions with minimum trauma to the skin, quick recovery and normalisation with high levels of safety. The method: corrective treatments with Herbal Aktiv Peel® followed by supportive and balancing care with Dr. Spiller Biocosmetics. The corrective phase is completed in five days. The process: Like the skin’s natural

acid mantle, Dr. Spiller’s proprietary Hydratain® emulsions are of the type ‘waterin-oil’. They lead to a quick re-establishment of the stratum corneum barrier, thereby reducing dehydration, inflammation and hypersensitivity. This effectively supports the skin’s natural cell renewal, recovery and normalisation processes.

BEFORE: August 2009

AFTER: October 2009 Yvonne B, Salon Owner, Carindale QLD

The results: The photos to the right illustrate the effectiveness of the ‘OmniDerm’ method. Before photos were taken following seven years of cosmeceutical care. After photos were taken two months later. They are the result of two Herbal Aktiv Peel® treatments combined with Dr. Spiller biomimetic care.

ET. NOT SOLD ON THE INTERN EXCLUSIVE TO BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS ONLY.

• Wrinkles • Sun Damage

BEFORE: August 2009

AFTER: October 2009 Jo O, Skin Therapist, Carindale QLD

IMPROVE THE APPEARANCE OF: • Pigmentation • Scarring • Acne/Pimples • Enlarged Pores

• Blackheads/Milia • Stretch Marks

For more information visit www.omniderm.com.au or call 1300 301 007


trends ㄰

APJ 1. When choosing a red lipstick what undertones are there and how do they differ in their effect? NC. Colour pigment classifications can be broadly divided into two

Creamy, luscious and long-lasting lipsticks.

LP4

LP9

groups – the Cool Category, which includes blue reds and true reds, and the Warm Category, which includes golden reds with a yellow undertone. Of both these groups there are many different variations of shades. The Blue Reds and True Reds are more suited to the cool-toned complexion, while the Orange Red and Brown Red are more suited to the warm-toned complexion. For a quick guide to help you ascertain whether you are warm or cool consider the colours below and determine which ones suit you best and which you tend to gravitate towards: ! WARM – Cream, Rust, Peach, Apricot, Khaki, Olive, Maroon, Brown, Orange ! COOL – White, Pink, Black, Burgundy, Teak Green, Sage, Violet, Mauve, Blue

APJ 2. Which is the most flattering red to make teeth look whiter? NC. The most flattering red to make your teeth appear whiter are those with a blue undertone. However, shiny lips also contribute to brightening teeth, so at the end of the day the choice of lipstick should still be to suit the individual’s skin tone. Natural Compatibles has two beautiful shades of red, LP4 to suit Cool complexions and LP13 to suit Warm complexions.

LP15

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LP14

APJ 3. As red is such a bold colour can you give us some tips when applying it? NC. When you have a strong colour like red precision application becomes an important factor and this cannot be achieved without first using a lipliner. It is really important to define the lips with a sharp, good-quality lip pencil that is neither too hard, nor too soft. The lip pencil must suit the undertones of the person, either cool or warm, and blend in with the lipstick of choice. You will need to match the pencil colour as closely as possible to the lipstick. Lipliner application can

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APJ 58

汩灳瑩捫⁡牴楣汥 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱㘺〲⁐


not only help balance out any contour imperfections, it can also prevent the lipstick “bleeding”, which is very important when using strong or bright colours such as red. Lipstick should then be applied with a sable lip brush, which will facilitate precision application of the lipstick. Apply colour on both sides of the brush and start with the cupid’s bow where the lips are fuller, then extend the colour to the corners of the lips and finally fill in the lips.

APJ 4. If someone wants to use red during the day are there ways they can use it so that it still looks “natural” - can you give us some recommendations? NC. To tone down a bright-red lipstick for daytime application try using a light/neutral shade lip pencil to define and fill in the entire lip. Follow by applying the red lipstick on top of this foundation. This will certainly help to tone down the intensity of the lipstick colour and also allow it to last longer. Another tip is to blot the red lipstick and leave it looking moist, but slightly matt for a more natural look.

APJ 5. Red lips can be very dramatic and bold. Can you give us some glamour tips on how to make red lips look sensational for an evening look? NC. Vamp up red lipstick for evening with a deep, defining pencil to outline the lips. This can be a true red or a plum red for cool tones, or a rich, warm red for warm tones. You could even fill in the entire lips with this pencil for a richer, deeper, more dramatic finish. Always ensure that your red lipstick for the evening is well set with a lip sealer. Natural

HOW TO ACHIEVE LIP PERFECTION Out with the bare and in with the BOLD – Red Lips are making a strong Fashion Statement

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by Natural Compatibles Enhance It’s no longer a secret – red lips are experiencing a strong comeback with leading brands showcasing their rich colours from fire engine red to deep scarlet and lush berry tones. As colour intensified so the need for a technique to step in and aid in achieving a quality application and finish. With the launch of their new branding campaign we approached Natural Compatibles Enhance to guide us with some timely technical tips on how to achieve perfect ruby lips.

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APJ 59

汩灳瑩捫⁡牴楣汥 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱㘺ㄹ⁐


Compatibles LipSeal is an excellent choice. This will stop any smudging, bleeding or fading of the colour. For an extra glamour finish add a touch of clear gloss on the pout of the lips. This will create a flawless, glossy finish, but no heavy all-over glitter. Avoid applying the gloss to the edges of the lips as it will take away from the definition of the lips and this could also contribute to “bleeding” of the colour, which can be very unsightly.

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APJ 6. What is the current trend when introducing red lips – should the eyes be also bold, or is it best to give the rest of the face a more neutral finish? NC. Makeup is very much a personal choice. So when it comes to

teaming up red lips with bold eyes, or whether you keep the rest of the face understated and more neutral that should be dictated by the individual’s personality and the look they want to achieve. Traditionally, neutral or understated eyes seems to be the current trend. Worn this way they can give the face a more nostalgic and glamorous 1920s look. Red lipstick tends to be a colour that portrays confidence, assertiveness and a bright, bold personality. As we are seeing dramatic shoes and strong clothing features with the use of accent colours, ruffles, bows and jewels, it is only natural that red is experiencing a strong fashion comeback. However, the secret to wearing bold red lips successfully lies in precision application, and also requires a certain confidence in the way you carry it.

MARKETING IDEAS Within a salon, red lipstick should be sold with appropriate lipliner pencils and lipsealer products, as well as a quality sable lip brush. Furthermore, you can also include a professional application session and offer your valuable tips on how to create a sensational trendy finish that can be carried off with a confident and memorable smile.

WHAT’S NEW AT NATURAL COMPATIBLES? “After 17 successful years of delivering timeless makeup enhancement solutions to thousands of Australian women through our unique Feature Focusing™ technique and our mineral-enriched quality product it’s time for the brand to have its own extreme makeover,” says Denise Richardson, founder and managing director of Enhance by Natural Compatibles. “Enhance encompasses all that’s contemporary and embodies our philosophy that all we need is to enhance our natural beauty to maintain a look that’s timeless and youthful,” Denise said. Enhance by Natural Compatibles’ principles are based on “style” rather than “fashion trends”, promoting a long-lasting relationship between the brand and its loyal users. “All our corporate materials, POS and communication tools reflect this exciting new image, including a gorgeous model, font and logo makeover. This is a great way to launch into a new decade,” says Denise. The new branding initiative includes substantial updates to the company’s website as well as all its marketing, training and promotional material. The fresh, new, contemporary look, aims to supports salons to gain new clients through a national marketing campaign that will profile the brand as one of Australia’s leading and highest-quality, professional, mineralenriched makeups.

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Due to its high reputation WorldSkills Australia selected Natural Compatibles Enhance as the Makeup Company of Choice. The organisation supports the beauty industry and provides young Australians with the opportunity to showcase their skills to a panel of experts and advance their career at national and international levels.

For further information phone 1800 636 077

APJ 60

汩灳瑩捫⁡牴楣汥 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱㘺㈲⁐


His and her

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weight-loss ㄰

Honourable Nicola Roxon. The Strategy recommends a range of interventions aimed at reducing the chronic disease burden associated with three lifestyle risk factors. Two of these factors are tobacco and alcohol, but at the top of the list is obesity. It is estimated that due to the overweight and obesity issue, type 2 diabetes will become the leading cause of disease burden in Australia. If this occurs, the annual healthcare costs for type 2 diabetes alone will increase from $1.3 billion in 2002-03 to $8 billion by 2032.

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So why are we failing at winning the battle against the bulge? Is it possible that we are not addressing the root cause of the problem? In this article Bonnie Sleep reveals some interesting information, backed by research that suggests that in fact the issue of weight gain has more to do with the mind-body connection as the controlling factor than it has to do with lack of discipline or willpower. Bonnie is an academic who has a passion for research in anti-ageing solutions. She is extensively involved in studies in this area and will be presenting to us new research findings that promise to revolutionise the way we will be approaching fat loss into the future.

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This article is the beginning of a four-part series that will take you through an interesting journey as we are presented with some amazing scientific information that unfolds new evidence of the root causes as to why we gain weight. This information will allow you to consider new principles when addressing weight-loss issues with your clients. The mind-body connection to weight loss could possibly finally offer the key to successful weight loss and weight management.

LEPTIN – THE MASTER FATREGULATION HORMONE Since 1994, the biochemistry of human fat production has taken a giant leap forward with the identification of leptin as the master hormone for the regulation of body weight. Interesting, you may say, but what has this got to do with me and my struggle with unwanted and resistant fat? The answer is everything. Science may not as yet have all the answers,

The Mind-Body Connection in Permanent Weight Loss A New Scientific Approach PART I By Bonnie Sleep BA Ed, MEd ㄰ 㤵 㜵

The traditional concept of why we gain weight is that the calories from food we consume are more than the output of energy, thus extra energy by way of food is stored in our body. While Australians now top the global list of overweight and obesity (according to a recent Government report), weight-loss experts are advocating their own weight-loss theories. There are very few women who haven’t at some stage gone on a “dietary shake” program only to find that gradually the weight has come back on. In the March issue of APJ in the CEO’s report we mentioned about the launch of the National Preventative Health Strategy on 1st September 2009 announced by the Minister for Health and Ageing, the

but there is a clear picture emerging about why we put on weight. Evidence now points to some innovative hormone-related ways to permanently recalibrate undesirable fat set points. This information has been discovered over 50 years ago, but has been hidden away until now. The key hormone associated with this theory is leptin – a master hormone produced by our fat cells that primarily communicates to our brain how much fat our bodies are carrying. Differing levels of leptin create feelings of satiety, create sugar cravings, and signal to the liver to start burning fat or to the thyroid to

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APJ 62

浩湤⁢潤礠捯湮散瑩潮⁷敩杨琠汯獳 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱㠺㈸⁐


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speed up metabolism. So leptin has been identified as the major driver in the fat-burning process. This breakthrough led the scientific community to assume obesity could be cured by relatively simple hormone supplementation.

Research excitedly confirmed that the higher the leptin level, the less we eat, the more calories we burn and the more effectively we burn fat. So leptin-boosting programs were poised to spring up like mushrooms in the Western world, but unfortunately, it didn’t turn out to be quite that simple.

LEPTIN AND OBESITY

These same scientists found that administering leptin to obese people produced little or no effect. They found that most obese people have elevated leptin levels anyway, which made sense as the fatter one is, the more Leptin those fat cells produce. But what was really happening was an elevated insensitivity to leptin or leptin resistance. In obese people this resistance led to an effect similar to a zero leptin level. An inverse relationship was discovered where the worse the leptin resistance, the fatter the person would become. So the unique response of the body to leptin, sensitivity or resistance became the real determiner of fat metabolism.

FAT SET POINT Our body’s fat set-point can be defined as the ideal resting place that our body fat identifies as the optimum place to be set. The theory of the body’s internal set point suggests that your body has an ideal weight and will adjust your hunger and satiety around this innate intelligence. The factors that affect this intelligent setting are genetic, environmental and stress related, and it is the stress-related factors that began to unlock the real interplay between the mind-body-fat connection. It is now understood that your response to stress actually adjusts your sensitivity or resistance to leptin and therefore determines whether you are lean or fat. In other words, how you code your stress threat can largely determine what your body will do with fat.

STRESS TYPE Science now knows that if your body decides that to survive you need to be fatter, your mind-body connection will shift your internal set point towards becoming fatter and you will become more leptin resistant. This increased resistance is a flexible response and locks in your body’s response to the decision you made about the threat to your life. So your mind is the fat driver and leptin the fat set-point modulator. This has now unlocked a totally new approach to fat metabolism.

Our body’s fat set-point can be defined as the ideal resting place that our body fat identifies as the optimum place to be set. The theory of the body’s internal set point suggests that your body has an ideal weight and will adjust your hunger and satiety around this innate intelligence. cells and can significantly increase the cortisol levels within cells. Studies with mice have shown that when this enzyme is overly active, obesity and leptin resistance will result. So this enzyme is the focal point of much current obesity research and considered responsible for much of the fat set point shifting.

TRIGLYCERIDES Studies have also found that triglycerides can cause a type of leptin resistance by binding to leptin in the blood and preventing the leptin to cross the blood-brain barrier. This is likely to be a factor in some types of fat set-point shifts.

INSULIN RESISTANCE FAT SET POINT TRIGGERS There are a number of triggers that set off the signals that influence leptin resistance. The most prominent of these triggers are: ! Elevated cortisol levels (both plasma & intercellular) ! Elevated triglyceride levels ! Insulin resistance ㄰ 㤵 㜵

CORTISOL Cortisol is the most commonly produced stress hormone with established links to obesity. Cushing’s Syndrome, for example, causes chronically high levels of cortisol in the bloodstream and all sufferers are obese and have leptin resistance. However, only a small proportion of all categories of obese people have been detected as having elevated cortisol levels. While the usual measures for testing cortisol through blood, saliva and urine have not shown a positive connection, the intercellular enzyme (11-BHSD-1) converts inactive cortisol to active cortisol inside the cells. This enzyme has been found to be present in fat, liver and brain

Insulin resistance and leptin resistance have been found to have a high correlation to obesity. Also, chronically elevated cortisol levels, both plasma and intercellular, have also been found to cause elevated levels of triglycerides and insulin resistance. So these fat set-point triggers are all interconnected.

OBESITY AND THE INTERESTING FAMINE AND TEMPERATURE STRESS RESPONSE

Starvation and cold weather are environmental stresses that logically create the accumulation and preservation of fat for survival and cause the internal set point to shift. These stresses trigger chemical responses that cause leptin resistance, and this is known as the unique stress response to starvation and cold weather. Scientists are now seeing the stresses of modern living as likely creating the same metabolic profile as perpetual starvation and cold weather, tricking our bodies into activating this ancient survival mechanism and causing shifts towards fat accumulation as a survival reserve.

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APJ 63

浩湤⁢潤礠捯湮散瑩潮⁷敩杨琠汯獳 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱㠺㌰⁐


Belle Natural Skincare

Purity with high performance results

F.A.T. (Famine and temperature) STRESS METABOLIC PROFILE A vicious cycle is created when high levels of leptin cause leptin resistance and people get fatter. Also when insulin resistance, in the presence of unlimited food, causes hyperinsulinemia, which makes these people extremely efficient at making fat. Becoming resistant to burning fat activates lipogenic or fat-burning enzymes and suppresses fat-utilisation enzymes, so there are a number of vicious cycles at work in the FAT stress metabolic profile and response.

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FLIGHT OR FIGHT STRESS METABOLIC PROFILE

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The effect on leptin in this stress response is diametrically opposed to the F.A.T. (famine and temperature) stress profile. In theory, the flight or fight stress response is running and associated with becoming leaner. The fat set point should shift and cause increased leptin insensitivity so that the body can remain lean. Similarly, acute stress such as exercise leads to reduced cortisol and triglyceride levels as well as increased insulin sensitivity. The flight or fight response impacts the Hypothalamus Pituitary Adrenal axis (HPA axis), and what determines the leptin response has to do with whether or not the response is initiated in the hypothalamus by the release of a corticotrophin releasing hormone (CRH). Remember this hormone as it becomes key in supporting weight loss. In a typical flight or fight response, CRH levels are elevated and this initiates the HPA axis. However, if the stress response bypasses the hypothalamus and therefore the production of CRH, an unregulated cortisol cascade can eventuate. This is known as a chronic stressresponse network and has been shown to cause obesity. In fact, obesity is often characterised by the abnormal functioning of the HPA axis.

THE BODY-MIND CONNECTION Our bodies interpret all mental, emotional, perceived or imagined stress as some type of physical threat. Starvation and cold weather or the F.A.T. (famine and temperature) triggers have their own type of unique stress response, diametrically opposed to the flight or fight threat. What seems critical to the FAT accumulation outcome is whether the response is processed through the hypothalamus or not. The perception of and subsequent classification of the threat appears paramount in determining the bio-chemical response pathway and the fat accumulation outcome. So, our minds would seem to play the critical role in determining the categories of all emotional, physical, mental and imagined threats. This in turn affects how our endocrine system classifies and responds with either fat loss or accumulation.

CONCLUSION This theory would suggest that we all have our minds to blame for our subconscious accumulation of extra kilos or to thank for our svelte profiles. So what can be done to “mastermind” the mind and achieve a permanently thinner or ideal profile?

BeautWise Pty Ltd. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

In the following issue of APJ we will explore some answers to this question and reveal an interesting, more pragmatic approach to weight loss that is promising great success and guaranteed results. This approach addresses the root cause of obesity and overweight concerns through their association to the hypothalamus. Perhaps we are now closer to a more realistic answer.

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Acknowledgment to Jon Gabriel The Gabriel Method, Simon & Schuster Australia, 2009. ㈵

Bonnie Sleep can be contacted on info@foreveryoung.net.au or phone 1300 799 092.

APJ 64

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wellness ㄰ 㤵 㜵

overlooked, yet more often than not it plays a critical role in causing some of the manifestations that we observe on the skin. The secret to having smooth, soft, flawless skin has often more to do with the nutrients that we put into our body and the toxins that we need to get out than what we put on the skin.

THE SKIN/GUT CONNECTION

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In many skin problems the cause is often associated with the gut lining not being intact. This is termed “leaky gut syndrome” or intestinal permeability. Leaky gut syndrome occurs when improperly digested food ferments in the intestine, producing toxic byproducts that irritate the intestinal lining and cause tiny tears. Over time, the intestinal “filter” becomes less effective and allows the entry of toxins and undigested foods from the gut into the bloodstream, causing immune inflammatory reactions like antigenantibody reactions.

When considering internal factors that affect skin health, the direct connection between the gut and the skin in most cases is often overlooked, yet more often than not it plays a critical role in causing some of the manifestations that we observe on the skin.

Leaky gut problems can also be caused by parasites, drugs such as frequent use of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, excess alcohol, food allergies and sensitivities. Toxins generated from unfriendly gut bacteria, candida, parasites or other toxic substances can leak into the blood from the small intestine and also trigger immune inflammatory reactions from certain immune cells. Our immune cells perceive these unwanted substances as foreign bodies or antigens, and launch an immune inflammatory attack. A common side-effect of these inflammatory reactions is a worsening of skin conditions or complexion

The Skin/Gut Connection to Skin Health and Skin Disorders by Dr Dzung Price

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As a skin therapist you have been trained to identify and treat skin conditions such as eczema, acne, psoriasis, rosacea and seborrhoea. However, have you ever considered that the cause of this condition may be coming from internal factors? Treating the skin externally may bring a certain level of comfort or relief, but if the contributing factors are internal the condition will continue to manifest. This is because the real source of health and beauty lies in the inner layers of the skin where cells develop and are nourished by the bloodstream. It’s the vitamins, minerals and nutrient-rich foods we consume every day that support skin health. On the other hand, pollution that creates toxicity in the body must be eliminated in order for our skin to gain its healthy glow and keep it free from developing premature wrinkles and skin disorders. When considering internal factors that affect skin health, the direct connection between the gut and the skin in most cases is often

problems. Therefore, reducing immune inflammatory reactions that can cause or aggravate skin conditions is critical to beautiful skin. The normal gut flora contains at least 500 different species of bacteria. Many of these bacteria are friendly, aiding in elimination, detoxification and immune regulation as well as supporting other functions of the body. They help protect the body by neutralising or detoxifying certain compounds and modifying immune response to foreign substances known as antigens and control inflammatory reactions, which may involve the skin. Under certain circumstances, the large bowel can become overrun with unfriendly bacteria and other undesirable microbes such as fungi and yeast, which also induce disease by producing toxins or altering the nutrition or immune response of the body. This can adversely affect skin health. This state is known as dysbiosis.

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APJ 66

獫楮⁧畴⁣潮湥捴楯 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲ㄺ㌵⁐


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WHY DETOXIFICATION IS SO ESSENTIAL In our quest for healthy skin, what our body eliminates is just as important as what we ingest each day. Detoxification removes poisons or other harmful toxins from the body. Where do these toxins come from? Every day, the body is bombarded by exposure to food additives, preservatives, artificial flavours, pesticides, herbicides, plastics, toxins in cosmetics and personal care products, heavy metals and other foreign substances. In order for our organs and systems to function at their best, our body needs to flush out these toxins continuously to prevent any build-up that may lead to unhealthy skin. A build-up of impurities in the blood can trigger chronic immune inflammatory reactions that cause or aggravate many chronic skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, seborrhoea, acne, poor complexion, hives and some inflammatory skin lesions. It is therefore essential to detoxify and drain the extracellular matrix, boost the organs of elimination in order to purify the blood and reduce immune inflammatory reactions.

HOW TO IMPROVE THE SKIN-GUT RELATIONSHIP

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In addressing such conditions that require reviewing internal health it is advisable that you work in conjunction with a naturopath or nutritionist. However, here are some steps and protocols to assist in improving the skin-gut relationship for radiant, glowing skin: 1. Heal the leaky gut with substances such as glutamine, apple pectin, slippery elm and inulin. 2. Improve the gut health and dysbiosis by adding in probiotics (friendly bacteria) and prebiotics such as fructooligosaccharide (FOS) and inulin. Prebiotics are a specialised and unique type of soluble, dietary fibres that support the growth of friendly bacteria such as bifidobacteria and lactobacilli in the large intestine. They also help crowd out the unfriendly gut bacteria from the large intestine that produce toxins. Many people who suffer from skin problems have an imbalance in their ratio of friendly-to-unfriendly gut bacteria, which results in the production and absorption of large amounts of bacterial endotoxins into the bloodstream. This triggers immune inflammatory reactions that make skin conditions worse. 3. Add high-potency full-spectrum, vegetable-based digestive enzymes with meals. Many people with complexion and skin problems such as adult acne, psoriasis, rosacea and other inflammatory skin lesions may have problems secreting or manufacturing optimal amounts of digestive enzymes. Powerful enzymes secreted from the pancreas and small intestine work with hydrochloric acid secreted in the stomach to break down food so that it is able to be assimilated easily into the body. Insufficient enzymatic production can cause compromised digestive power, leading to symptoms such as bloating, gas or abdominal discomfort, but more importantly allows partially digested food, especially derivatives of protein digestion, to leak into the bloodstream and trigger the kind of immune inflammatory reactions that cause or aggravate skin eruptions. If you have a skin condition or poor complexion, part of the cause may be your body’s inability to digest completely the food you eat. Enzymes not only work at the intestinal level to enhance digestion, but when absorbed into the bloodstream also exert anti-inflammatory effects and dissolve immune inflammatory complexes before they can aggravate skin problems and other inflammatory conditions. This is why enzymes supplementation (between meals) have proven beneficial in controlling many cases of arthritis and other joint inflammatory conditions. Not all digestive enzymes are created equal.

You should choose a full-spectrum formula containing a high potency blend of amylase, protease, lactase, lipase, cellulose, maltase, sucrase, bromelain and papain. 4. Add in high-potency vitamins and minerals to optimise the nutritional integrity of the intestinal tract. Because the intestinal cells are replaced every seven to 14 days, a continual supply of vitamins, minerals and other nutrients are necessary to ensure that new cells fully mature and can perform their necessary duties. In addition to the direct benefits to your skin, taking the correct vitamins and minerals can also ensure that the lining of your intestinal tract will be healthier, and therefore, less prone to leaky gut problems.

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THE ROLE OF ANTIOXIDANTS Some of the premier nutritional antioxidants and minerals that protect the skin from inside-out and control free radical damage include vitamins B, C and E, beta-carotene, selenium, zinc, magnesium and manganese. Vitamins A and D work synergistically to optimise the maturation of skin cells as they work their way up from the lowest layer of the epidermis to the top layer of the skin. 1. Boost the body’s detoxification systems (gut, liver, lymphatics, kidney, lungs, skin) to rid the bloodstream of impurities. Strategies to bolster phase I and phase II liver detoxification should include supplementation with a diet rich in antioxidants, high-potency multivitamins and minerals, B vitamins, molybdenum and aminoacids. Including herbs such as milk thistle and indole-3-carbinol can supercharge the liver detoxification enzymes. Immune modulators such as astragalus and reishi mushroom extract can help tone down immune inflammatory sources. In my clinic, I also use a lot of homoeopathic drainage remedies to gently support the body’s detoxification systems. 2. Reduce intake of animal fats to decrease arachidonic acid intake and the synthesis of prostaglandin 2 (the prostaglandin hormone that aggravates skin inflammatory conditions). 3. Increasing essential fatty acids such as flaxseed, borage and fish oils can help improve the prostaglandins (PG-1 and PG-2) which have desirable anti-inflammatory skin effect. Working together with an appropriately qualified healthcare professional who can assist in improving gut function and supporting the body’s wellness through carefully monitored detoxification can greatly minimise the toxic load and improve nutrient supply to the skin through the bloodstream. With strategies such as those I have addressed above, you will achieve greater results in improving skin health and skin conditions and also achieve better anti-ageing results. Dr Dzung Price is a holistic integrated medical practitioner with qualifications in Nutrition and Environmental Medicine, Naturopathy, Acupuncture, Bio-energetic Medicine and Homotoxicology. Using this comprehensive array of healing modalities, cutting edge medical technology and self-empowerment solutions, Dzung works to address the root causes of disease and the lack of wellness in her patients. Working closely with a talented team, Dzung’s approach is to restore optimal health by removing the obstacles so that the body creates agelessness and wellness in mind, body and spirit through clinics in Brisbane and on the Gold Coast. Dr Price is well known for her groundbreaking work in the field of allergy medicine and nutrition. She is the author of Your Allergy Free Child, 7 Day Detox Guide and Younger, Healthier Skin at Any Age. She is the co-founder of CHI Health Innovations, a company devoted to the provision of bio-energised natural health products for wellness and beauty. Web: www.chihealthinnovations.com

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APJ 67

獫楮⁧畴⁣潮湥捴楯 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲ㄺ㌶⁐


treatments ㄰

forming a protective barrier against the external environment. Once the protective barrier is broken, the normal physiological process of wound healing is immediately set in motion.

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Partial thickness injury is limited to the epidermis and superficial dermis, with no damage to the dermal blood vessels. The healing process here occurs by regeneration of other tissues. Fullthickness injury involves loss of the dermis and extends to deeper tissue layers, and disrupts dermal blood vessels. Wound healing involves the synthesis of several types of tissue and scar formation.

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THE 3 PHASES OF REPAIR The classic model of wound healing is divided into three or four sequential, yet overlapping, phases:

!

Phase 1 – Lag (which is part of the

! !

Phase 2 – Proliferative Phase 3 – Remodelling

homoeostasis and inflammatory stage)

The Mechanism for Repair in Wound Healing By Gay Wardle The treatments that we perform in our salons are becoming more and more invasive to the skin. Results show that by doing these treatments we are able to slow down ageing, improve the texture of the skin and reduce scar tissue. Skin needling, IPL treatments and deeper-level peels are all excellent treatments that give us these results.

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As some of these treatments may cause a trauma it is important that we also understand how the skin will respond to a wound and the mechanisms that affect its healing process. In this article I am covering the body’s physiological responses and mechanisms that it will perform to enable it to heal the wound. It is also important to understand that the body will also require the right nutritional support in order to perform this repair.

Upon injury to the skin, a set of complex biochemical events takes place in a closely orchestrated cascade to repair the damage. Within minutes post-injury, platelets (thrombocytes) aggregate at the injury site to form a fibrin clot. This clot acts to control active bleeding (homoeostasis). The fibrin clot acts like a highway for the migration of cells into the wound site. Within the first four hours of injury, neutrophils begin to appear. In the inflammatory phase, bacteria and debris are engulfed by monocyte or macrophage. Debris is phagocytosed and removed, and factors are released that cause the migration and division of cells involved in the proliferative phase. Next the monocyte, or macrophage, appear, which are part of our lymphatic system. The function of these cells includes the killing of microbes, the breakdown of wound debris, and the secretion of cytokines that initiate the proliferative phase of repair.

Synthetic cells, or fibroblasts, proliferate and synthesise new connective tissue, replacing the transitional fibrin matrix. At this time, an efficient nutrient supply develops through the arborisation (terminal branching) of adjacent blood vessels. This ingrowth of new blood vessels is called angiogenesis. This new and very vascular connective tissue is referred to as granulation tissue. Let’s look at the three phases of repair a little more closely.

LAG PHASE The first phase of repair is called the

lag or inflammatory

THE PROCESS OF WOUND HEALING

phase. The inflammatory response is dependent on the depth and

Wound healing is a biological process that begins with trauma and ends with scar formation. There are two types of tissue injury. These are full and partial thickness. Wound healing, or wound repair, is an intricate process in which the skin repairs itself after injury. In normal skin, the epidermis and dermis exists in a steady-state equilibrium,

volume of tissue loss from the injury. Characteristics of the lag phase include acute inflammation and the initial appearance and infiltration of neutrophils. Neutrophils protect the host from microorganisms and infection. If inflammation is delayed or stopped, the wound becomes susceptible to infection and closure is delayed.

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PROLIFERATIVE PHASE

The proliferative phase is the second phase of repair and is anabolic in nature. The lag and remodelling phase are both catabolic processes. The proliferative phase generates granulation tissue. In this process, acute inflammation releases cytokines, promoting fibroblast infiltration of the wound-site, then creating a high density of cells.

Collagen is the major connective tissue protein produced and released by fibroblasts. The connective tissue physically supports the new blood vessels that form, while endothelial cells promote the growth of new vessels. These new blood vessels are necessary to meet the nutritional needs of the wound healing process. The mark of wound closure is when a new epidermal cover seals the defect.

REMODELLING PHASE The process of wound healing continues beneath the new surface. This is the remodelling or maturation phase and is the third phase in healing. In the maturation and remodelling phase, collagen is remodelled and realigned along tension lines and cells that are no longer needed are removed by apoptosis. However, this process is not only complex, but fragile, and susceptible to interruption or failure, leading to the formation of chronic non-healing wounds. Factors which may contribute to this include diabetes, venous or arterial disease, old age, and infection.

THE ROLE OF NUTRITION Providing proper nutrition is important in order to support the healing process. Protein is essential for wound repair and regeneration. Without essential amino acids, angiogenesis, fibroblast proliferation, collagen synthesis and scar remodelling will not occur. Amino acids also support the immune response. Adequate amounts of carbohydrates and fats are needed to prevent the amino acids from being oxidised for caloric needs. Glucose is also needed to meet the energy requirements of the cells involved in wound repair. Albumin deficiency is the most important indicator of malnutrition because it is sacrificed to provide essential amino acids if there is inadequate protein intake during wound repair. Other nutrients include vitamin A, zinc, vitamin C, vitamin E and iron. Starving the body of good nutrition will have an enormous effect on wound healing, so knowledge and information on nutrition should be part of your protocols. Ref: Encyclopedia of Surgery.

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Gay Wardle is greatly respected as a trainer and educator in the aesthetic industry. She is a multi-award winner having received 14 business and industry awards for the achievements of her two salons in Queensland. Gay travels extensively throughout Australia training salons in IPL and equipment technology and also conducts training in the Advanced Skin Analysis Pastiche Method. Gay is currently pursuing a degree qualification in Dermal Sciences with Victoria University. She trains others on her highly successful strategies that come from a strong understanding of what drives a salon to succeed and how to be known for exceptional results. Gay can be contacted on 0418 798 455.

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germaine de capuccini ㄰ 㤵 㜵

! ! ! !

Advanced Skin Therapy Anti-Ageing treatments Body Care Spa and Wellness products

Their formulations use the most advanced technologies and are known equally for their purity, luxury and exquisite presentation, but above all for the unsurpassed results they deliver.

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To discover more about Tess Walls as well as this incredible product we interviewed her with the following questions:

1. What is the most important element of training you bring to businesses as a product supplier and trainer? I have been a beauty therapist since 1993 and I have a passion for helping my clients achieve the “ultimate result”. I give freely of myself and of my knowledge because I believe that by helping others achieve success, I have achieved my key objective. My training aims at implementing and perfecting the following six key areas, which many businesses struggle with:

1. PRESENTATION: Make sure your business looks like “the place” where they will achieve results

2. WELCOME: Be warm and welcoming with your clients and build a rapport with them when they come into your business. Even if you are on the phone greet them with a warm and sincere smile.

3. ASSESSMENT: Always conduct a thorough skin

The Secret Revelations of a Distributor When seeking for a quality product we are always interested not only in the integrity and capabilities of the product, but also the driving force behind the company – the distributor and what they can bring to your business in terms of their knowledge, energy and expertise. Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 17 years’ experience in the Beauty and Spa industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their businesses step-by-step. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves imparting her knowledge to others. She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional client services.

Tess is no stranger to success. She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including The Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems.

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Germaine de Capuccini is a highly reputable leading skincare brand developed in Spain, with an over 46-year history and sold to more than 10,000 internationally recognised Skin Clinics, Medi Spas and Day Spas in over 80 countries around the globe.

The Germaine de Capuccini comprehensive product line offers the total package in skin and body care for solutions such as:

analysis and a comprehensive consultation and make sure you take detailed notes on your client’s health history to identify any causes of potential problems.

4. COMMUNICATE: Explain to your client what you have identified on their skin and the treatment you will perform today, then recommend a future plan that will bring about the results they are seeking.

5. EDUCATE ON HOME-CARE: Clients appreciate it if they are given direction on their home-care and what products will support the results they have achieved at the salon or spa. View this as part of your on-going relationship with them. The products and strategy you give them for home-care should support and complement what you are doing in the salon, clinic or spa.

6. RE-BOOK: Make sure you re-book them and encourage them to commit to the recommended program in order to achieve their goals. It is important to achieve all six areas as this will give your client excellent service and it will also encourage client loyalty and business growth. ㄰

2. What do you believe today's consumers are looking for to trust a skincare company? They are definitely looking for higher levels of results, but equally important they are looking for educated therapists who can communicate to them new advances that can offer them better results. They want to know what a skincare company will guarantee them for their investment. Germaine de Capuccini guarantees that if the client uses their products in the recommended way and commits to the treatment schedule outlined by their therapist they will get results.

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Germaine de Capuccini even has their own professional skin diagnostic machine that allows the therapist to carry out a thorough skin evaluation, measuring parameters such as hydration, health of the stratum corneum, sebum and melanin activity and elasticity of the skin. This allows the therapist to quickly review the skin’s progress and make the necessary adjustments to their treatment protocols. It also allows them to present to the client the progress that is happening. Engaging the client in such a way helps them gain trust in your services and motivates them to stay committed to the program.

3. When you observe successful salons and spas what characteristics and strategies are they implementing that ensure they do not become victims of the current economic crisis?

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I asked our “Therapist of the Year” that question only a few weeks ago. I would like to share with you what Julie, from Diamond Clinic on Unley – Adelaide said, as she is a living example of how you can ensure you survive no matter what is happening to the economy:

1. Don’t sell products – sell their benefits and the results for the client.

2. Prescribe – You are a professional, you have studied to allow you to make the right choices. Don't be afraid of recommending products. You need to give a complete solution to your client’s problems, and homecare is 70% of that solution.

3. Listen 80% and talk 20%. This shows genuine interest and care. Be highly knowledgeable and confident in your products. Share with them any studies, statistics or testimonials you have on the products or treatments you are recommending. Clients want to know what to expect. Be truthful and honest about the realistic expectations of your treatments.

4. Ask about their main concern and treat that first. Win their trust and respect as a priority, then they will not hesitate to follow your recommendations.

5. Educate, educate and educate yourself. Knowledge is power and the key to business success!

4. How long have you been involved with Germaine de Capuccini and what do you believe are the unique benefits of the company and its products? We started with our first client in Australia in April 2006 and have had strong growth since then. We chose Germaine de Capuccini as we were very impressed with their core corporate values, including providing professional support and a strong commitment to best manufacturing practices, the environment and corporate ethics and social responsibility.

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For a salon owner, the corporate strength and commitment of Germaine de Capuccini is backed up with practical business support, including excellent promotional materials, such as a regular gift with purchase, meaningful training materials and an unwavering support for the therapist, including strict policies preventing direct Internet sales of the product. As the local distributor for Germaine de Capuccini, we provide the necessary business tools, training and distribution networks to support our professional clients. We pride ourselves on taking a personal interest in each client and supporting them in all aspects of running their businesses.

We are very proud to be the Australian Distributor for Germaine de Capuccini products because not only do our business philosophies align with theirs, but the product lines deliver exceptional results in all aspects of skin and body therapy. We believe that Germaine de Capuccini provides a truly unique product solution because of this combination of product performance, corporate ethics and support for the professional.

5. Are there any new product developments that Germaine de Capuccini has recently launched and where do they fit in terms of consumer demand? Germaine de Capuccini has a very well resourced Research and Development Department at the company headquarters located in Alcoy, Spain. Germaine de Capuccini constantly revises existing products and release, new products, not only to keep up with consumer demand, but also to take advantage of the latest improvements in ingredients and biomedical technologies.

One of our latest releases is an advanced anti-ageing cream called

Timexpert Rides X.Cell that is based on plant stem cells, peptides and an ingredient called Pro-Collagestine Fill. This cream fights ageing at every level. Medical research has discovered that stem cells in the adult body – which become less effective at their task of repair as we age, restored to action with the right biochemical formulations. It was information similar to this that led Germaine de Capuccini to develop the use of a

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living plant stem cell within their cream provides extraordinary cellular nutrients to help the skin “grow” new cells to delay ageing. Apart from stem cells the product also contains other anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing ingredients including: ! Hexapeptide to minimise the contraction of the muscles and reduce the appearance of expression lines ! Pentapeptide that plums the lines by strengthening collagen ! Pro-Collagestine Fill to repair the “structural” fibres in the extra cellular matrix to promote optimal skin architecture. It also helps the skin recover its natural capacity to work against wrinkles. It supports collagen and elastin synthesis, giving the skin a firmer, more plumped appearance.

Timexpert Rides X.Cell is just one example of how Germaine de Capuccini is constantly at the forefront of new innovations and product development. 6. What are your thoughts about offering body wellness treatments and how do they enhance skin therapy results? This is an area that I am really passionate about! So many therapists forget that the head is connected to the body when they are planning their clients’ treatment program. We can’t get the best possible results if we just treat the face alone. There are so many factors that affect the skin and they all involve the body as a whole. Let’s look at stress for instance. If the body continues to suffer from long-term stress this will lead to toxicity in the circulation. The skin will look dull and hormonal issues will also arise, hindering cell regeneration in the skin and making skin prone to sensitivities and other abnormalities. As a therapist there are several services you can recommend to help lower stress levels and support the body through better circulation and lymphatic drainage.

7. What anti-ageing formulations do you offer your clients and what results can they expect? We have an array of anti-ageing solutions that offer guaranteed results, but my three favourites are:

Timexpert Lift Concentrate: This product will help redefine the lip and cheek contours and improve the lack of elasticity around the jaw line. Instead of using elastin and other popular ingredients for firming the skin, this product uses Kombucha, better known as the “fungus of long life”. Its “lipo-filling” properties help to make it capable of filling in volumes where the face needs it.

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Timexpert Eye Cream: This product is excellent for lines around the eyes. Most people need a good eye cream that can deliver results against dehydration, dark circles and lack of tone. The reason I love this eye cream is because of the results it delivers. I have a photo that was taken six years ago and I had more lines around my eyes then than I do now and the only thing I have changed is use this wonderful eye cream! It contains an excellent blend of Pentapeptides, Hexapeptides and Soy Protein. Strategist Anti-oxidant Serum: This product will increase the colour of the skin and give it a healthy-looking glow. It will minimise age and pigment spots and increase the plumpness and dewiness of the skin.

This serum contains the best collection of active ingredients I have seen in an anti-ageing serum and can be used on almost any skin type wanting to fight ageing. It contains Hyaluronic Acid, collagen, RC Advanced to stimulate to ATP in the mitochondria and vitamins A, B, C and E. It has a fantastic light texture so it is absorbed into the skin really well. I love this serum, it is a must for almost anyone!

8. What global trends do you believe Australian businesses need to be embracing to ensure they do not lose their market share?

Germaine de Capuccini has been established since 1964 and has seen many trends come and go.

卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱〺〸⁐

There is no doubt that the advanced antiageing technologies using stem cells, DNA and genomics are becoming very big. The other trend that is continuing to grow is genuine organic products. There is a certain sector of the market asking for these products as they are concerned with the environmental issue of toxicity. There are limitations to organic products that we need to be aware of in terms of their shelf life, standardisation of nutrients and what they can achieve in terms of results. Nevertheless, there will always be a market that will be staunch supporters of organic products.

9. What changes would you like to see in the aesthetic and spa industry and what advice would you give a business owner who is entering the market with a salon or spa ? I would like to see more Beauty Therapists taking their careers seriously. If there were more of us who took pride in our work and committed to our professionalism, I believe we would be able to build a better and stronger reputation for our industry and there would be greater consumer confidence to trust our knowledge. For a new business entering this industry my advice to them would be to brand their business as “a establishment for skin solutions, wellness and body results” and avoid being labelled as a “pampering spa or salon”. Clients are less likely to cut back on their investment with them if they consider their services as a “necessity” rather than just a “feel-good pampering” session. If they have no previous business experience they should start small until they grow the business before expanding into large premises with high overheads. I am amazed how many business owners I have met over the years that have seven or eight rooms but only employ three or four therapists. They should also invest in putting in place strict policies and procedures that should include how to greet and welcome clients right through to their treatment protocols. They should design a thorough skin and body consultation, develop rebooking systems and staff targets, just to name a few. And last but not least, when hiring staff they should select therapists who are equally interested in skin and body solutions and show sufficient enthusiasm in helping the client achieve their goals, as this will ensure a strong reason why clients will want to return to them. That way you can be assured that your business will grow.

For further information on Germaine de Capuccini and if you would like to talk to Tess Walls on how she can help you grow your business phone 1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876, email tess@germaine-de-capuccini.com.au APJ 72

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Photo: Enrico Labriola/Auraphoto.it

www.cosmoprof-asia.com

Where are you going, beauty?

THE WORLD OF BEAUTY MEETS AT COSMOPROF ASIA 2010 NOVEMBER, 10TH-12TH - HONG KONG CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE 15TH EDITION B

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THE ULTIMATE CROSSROAD FOR THE BUSINESS IN THE ENTIRE ASIA PACIFIC REGION: • 1,412 Exhibitors from 39 countries and regions (+ 4.05% over 2008) • 52,000 sqm Gross Exhibition Area (+ 3.38% over 2008) • 41,062 Visitors (+ 4% over 2008) • 18 Country & Group Pavilions • International Buyer Delegations • Press: 176 journalists representing 122 media attended the 2009 edition Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd Australian Pavilion Enquiries: Austrade - melbourne - australia - ph. +61.3.9648.3179 - fax +61.3.9648.3100 - leonie.smith@austrade.gov.au Marketing and Promotion: SoGeCos s.p.a. - milan - italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - sogecos@cosmoprof.com Sales Office Asia Pacific: UBM Asia Ltd - hong kong - ph. +852.2827.6211 - fax +852.3749.7345 - cosmasia-hk@ubm.com Sales Office Europe, The Americas, Africa and Middle East: Fairsystem International Exhibition Services s.p.a. - bologna - italy ph. + 39.051.282.848 - fax +39.051.282.895-896 - fairsystem@fairsystem.it

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ingredient The role of Hyaluronan in skin hydration and anti-ageing results

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by Terry Everitt

Staying in touch with new research into ingredients can make the difference between average and excellence in terms of skin-therapy results. In this article Terry Everitt presents the latest word on Hyaluronic Acid or Hyaluronan as it is now termed.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) or hyaluronate, now correctly termed Hyaluronan,is an ingredient that has had mountains and valleys of popularity over the many years it has been available. For the purpose of this article I will use the name Hyaluronan and I suggest you use this term in speaking with clients as there are still many who do not understand how an acid can be good for the skin. We are always concerned with keeping the skin moisturised and one of the best ways of having the skin maintain moisture is doing it internally, rather than trying merely to keep surface moisture content, which important as this may be, rapidly evaporates. Dependent on ingredients in the product used, this evaporation off the skin can in fact cause dehydration by using the moisturiser – weird isn’t it? In aesthetics, we generally think of hyaluronan as a major component of the glycosarninoglycans (GAG’s). Along with proteoglycans, collagen and elastin, among other substances, are responsible for the volume and structural part of the dermis, which is one of the areas we wish to keep in the best possible shape. While this is true, hyaluronan is also found in connective, epithelial and neural tissues – one of the chief components of the extracellular matrix, and contributes significantly to cell proliferation and migration. Hyaluronan is the simplest of the various GAGs. Hyaluronan is not new. It was first identified from the vitreous body of the eye by Karl Meyer and reported in a study published in 1934, although the chemical structure was not worked out until the 1950s. We now know that the molecule is a repeating disaccharide, normally seen as a coiled linear structure.

WHAT IT IS AND WHERE IT IS FOUND

individual units are repeated with hyaluronan being up to 25,000 polymers in length, with an average diameter of 500 nanometres (nm), thus making it an anionic (negatively charged) polysaccharide. Its molecular weight can reach into the multi-million Daltons – a very expansive number, which is the primary reason it is used in skincare. The molecule can carry approximately 10,000 times its volume of water and for this reason is an excellent ingredient to support the skin’s hydration. In a research report the following was noted: ‘Identification and regulation of the eukaryotic hyaluronate synthase’ by Prehm, P. (1989) showed results of research proving that hyaluronan is synthesised in the plasma membrane and released directly into the extracellular environment. In contrast, other glycosaminoglycans are made in the Golgi organelle within the cell. This allows a quicker manufacture and ‘delivery’ of hyaluronan to do the myriad of functions it is responsible for. What may surprise you is that hyaluronan does not last very long in the body. It is always in a process of anabolism (building up) and catabolism (breaking down), with up to 30 per cent of the total amount catabolised locally in 24 hours. Studies have shown that the half-life of injected hyaluronan in skin and joints is only about 12 hours. Of the approximately 15 grams of hyaluronan in the body, one-third is turned over (degraded and synthesised) every day. If you think the hyaluronan name is difficult to say or remember, then you can always use this name instead, from The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry: (2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-3-[(2S,3R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-4[(2R,3R,4S,5S,6S)-6-carboxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxan-2yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxy-6[(2R,3R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl] oxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxane-2carboxylic acid. Yes, there are good reasons why the full chemical name is not always used.

FUNCTIONS WITHIN THE SKIN

Hyaluronan’s function within the body contributes to tissue hydrodynamics, movement and proliferation of cells, regulating tissue repair, increasing the skin’s suppleness and resilience as well as regulating inflammatory and immune responses and participates in a number of cell surface receptor interactions for the growth of new cells.

Chemical Formula: C33H54N2O23 Molecular Weight 846.78146 [g/mol] Hyaluronan is a polymer (individual unit) of disaccharides, composed of D-glucuronic acid and D-N-acetylglucosamine linked together via alternating glycosidic bonds. These

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Hyaluronan also has many separate functions as part of the glycosamonoglycans in the dermis. It is a major regulator of water balance and osmotic pressure. It is also worthwhile noting that it does have an impact in oedema. It helps ions flow and exchange, while also acting as a lubricant. We know that this ingredient is required for wound healing (see below) and has a large part to play in scar-free healing by providing the skin with the well-needed flexibility during healing to resume its natural state. Hyaluronan has a remarkable ability of being both hydrophobic and hydrophilic,depending on the skin’s need. It does in fact have a multitude of individual functions, which naturally makes it a valuable ingredient in skincare products.

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Hyaluronan allows the cells of the skin to retain moisture and provides volume, form and lift. When it is applied to the skin it can “plump it up” because it increases the ability of the individual cells to absorb and hold moisture. The decrease in hyaluronan as we age can contribute to the skin becoming less supple, thinner and more prone to wrinkling. As an added factor in having total sun protection, is that UVB rays decrease the production of hyaluronan, and increase the rate of its degradation. Hyaluronan degradation products also accumulate in the skin after UV exposure. While it is not clear exactly how this occurs it is thought that the damage caused by UVB releases chemical messages, which increase production and migration of the enzyme hyaluronidase thath destroys hyaluronan. This added rate of breakdown is greater than the build-up, thus the damage we know and see from ultraviolet radiation. Additionally, there are six identified types of hyalronidase, which affect different parts of the hyaluronan structure – however, the end result is still the same – less hyaluronan doing all the important work in the body and particularly in the skin.

USE IN SKINCARE Hyaluronan is a handy ingredient to know about and to utilise for the benefit of various skin needs. Products containing hyaluronan can be useful in having a protective role and preventative function in minimising dehydration. As the skin ages, we can use the ingredient in more of a curative function in replacing the lost moisture. While not a direct moisturising agent, its capacity to bind to water is the reason it can help us achieve excellent results with ageing skin. Topical application of hyaluronan will not help the skin produce more hyaluronan, but merely replaces what should be there naturally, and for this reason, we must continually use it as a trusted ingredient within our skincare products.

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There is current research on observing the effect of hyaluronan in the epidermis and it will be interesting to see what comes out of the 8th International Conference on Hyaluronan, presented by the International Society for Hyaluronan Sciences (ISHAS) held in Kyoto, June 6-11, 2010.

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Although the epidermis was once thought of as dead tissue, we have for some years known that it is a living, viable structure with many biochemical interactions within itself and supported by the underlying dermal structure.

Although the epidermis was once thought of as dead tissue, we have for some years known that it is a living, viable structure with many biochemical interactions within itself and supported by the underlying dermal structure. What this means is that our work on the epidermis can indeed contribute to the vitality, maintenance and improvement of the skin’s appearance. Interestingly, it is worth noting that retinoic acid as it decreases the keratinocytes, actually increases hyaluronan in the epidermis. This also seems true of hydrocortisone, which inhibits hyaluronan catabolism, thus supporting its presence in the skin. Hyaluronan, or hyaluronic acid if you really prefer, is a wonderful ingredient that can be used with great effect on the skin. Even if some manufacturers have it in a molecular weight that is too large to penetrate the epidermis, at least it makes the surface look great, as in the case of topically applied collagen.

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WOUND HEALING Most of the studies on hyaluronan have been in wound repair and these processes are used to keep the skin in a wellmaintained state with application via skincare products. It is

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What the Industry is saying about our Insurance Services Whether you have a chain of salons, a single treatment room, or you work as a mobile beauty therapist, professional beauty insurance is essential for your business. No matter which part of the beauty industry you work in, obtaining the right level of insurance is essential to the success of your business, protecting you against the day-to-day risks of the job such as accidents or human error.

“I have accessed my insurance through the Sparrow Group, having been with other companies in the past. I found their services very comprehensive. Sue took a great deal of time to do a thorough assessment of my needs and I was delighted to know that my insurance cover now not only perfectly fits my businesses, but she has also saved me over $7,000. It was great experiencing such personal care, attention to detail and excellent service.” Christine Comans, DenVega WA

Beauty therapist insurance usually includes several different types of cover which protect your business in different ways: ! Professional Indemnity Malpractice Insurance for Beauty Therapists ! Public Liability Insurance for Beauty Therapists ! Business Insurance for Beauty Therapists ! Additional Cover for Beauty Therapists

“Since working with Sue I have been able to sleep at night for the first time in a long time. I have been in business for almost five years and have constantly struggled to get the right advice and right coverage for my Beauty business. I was always reassured everything was OK even though I never felt totally OK as many times I was given conflicting information. I always paid on time, did what I was told and thought everything was alright until I had a spray-tanning claim against the business. You know that letter you wish you didn’t open. I thought, when receiving it, thank goodness I have insurance! I made the call and it only got worse from here. I thought the company I was with cared, but all they cared about was looking for a way out. I was left to fight the battle on my own. It was unnecessary and cost me dearly. Then I was referred to Sue via APAN. I immediately knew she knew her game and was so efficient it blew me away. I now know everything is covered and Sue is there for me and that I don’t have to worry any more as I know I am in the best hands. Do yourself a favour and call her. She even helped me fill in the paperwork and get things moving in the right direction.” Susan Lauder, Qld Ph: 0402 232 889 www.lauderbeauty.com.au

Why use The Sparrow Group for your Beauty Insurance? The unique combination of working both in the beauty industry and the insurance industry gives us, the insurance provider, a unique understanding of you and your business ! Boutique business that offers personalised service and an after-hours service ! Tailor your insurance to your individual insurance needs so you get the level and type of cover that you require, with Lloyd’s of London, the world’s largest insurance provider.

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You work really hard for what you have – we want to work with you to help you protect it. Here is what some of our customers are saying:

interesting that hyaluronan has two main functions in the inflammatory process even though they are contradictory. This are that low molecular weight hyaluronan, 10-500 kDa (kilodaltons) is highly angiogenic (supports new blood vessel growth) and pro-inflammatory, which actually promotes the inflammation cascade. On the other hand, high molecular weight hyaluronan, greater than 500 kDa, is anti-angiogenic, anti-inflammatory and immuno-suppressive, which moderates the inflammatory response and contributes to the stabilisation of granulation tissue matrix, thus increasing wound healing. W. Y. John Chen and Giovanni Abatangelo, in their published Wound Repair and Regeneration, 1999, 7: 79-89 study, showed that hyaluronan also has crucial functions in the reepithelisation process due to several of its properties. It serves as a integral part of the extracellular matrix of basal keratinocytes, which are major constitutes of epidermis; along with its free radical scavenging function and its role in keratinocyte proliferation and migration. It is these properties and functions that we try to increase in the normal skin repair mechanisms for greater cellular repair and ultimate skin health in providing the skin with hyaluronan.

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EXTERNALLY SOURCED HYALURONAN In yesteryears, most of the hyaluronan came from rooster combs, however, public opinion went against this supply and now almost all hyaluronan is from extracellular protein

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produced by bacteria in laboratory conditions. There remains no definitive research to the presence of high levels of hyaluronan in food sources. However, there are possibilities as to the presence of nutrients in certain root vegetables that could boost hyaluronan levels.

DERMAN FILLERS An article on hyaluronan would not be complete without mentioning the use in injectable dermal fillers, or as it is known by some as biomaterial tissue engineering scaffolding. While there is an array of different trade names available now, it is safe to say that Restylane lead the way in Australia, followed some time later by Perlane, a thicker solution for deeper plane placement, and then a number of entrants (Juvederm and Hylaform as examples) are on the market that have crosslinked hydrogel bases, but this is a subject of perhaps another article. Terry Everitt is known as a Master Aesthetician in Advanced Clinical Aesthetics and lectures at medical and aesthetic conferences, both in Australia and internationally, while also being an educationalist in the development of quality assurance learning. He is also a consultant in legislative compliance requirements within the vocational education and training environment. Terry holds membership with the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M), Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Australian Institute of Training and Development and the Australian Institute of Management among others. He can be contacted on 0414 483 758.

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APJ 76

桹慬畲潮慮 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱〺㌶⁐


[0% Acid] [0% Harsh Chemicals] [100% Natural]

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finer skin

firmer skin

youngerlooking eyezone

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Change your clients’ skin! with 2B Bio Peeling Unlike other peels that only work on the surface, 2B Bio-Peel activates the exfoliation process from within the skin. The therapist is in full control of the peel and can individualise the peel to her diverse client needs.

An advanced treatment with immediate results for all skin conditions from Anti-Ageing needs, Pigmentation and Acne. The 2B Bio-Beauty Skin Care is active and effective, niche and affordable. Professional use only products as well as retail products available with a generous markup as well as samples. ㄰

State Agents required.

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Phone Patou Aesthetics Distribution:

Ph 07 4057 8365 Mobile 0419 665 383 ㈵

Patricia Mangano

email: patriciamangano@hotmail.com

www.patou.com.au

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SPOTLIGHT ON PRODUCTS

SKEYNDOR SVELTE CONTOUR CAVITATION TREATMENT for Salon and Homecare

A New Massage experience Be first to introduce it! Spas have long looked to the sea for treatment inspiration, from deep-sea mud detox to feet-nibbling fish pedicures, but the latest craze sees therapists armed with shells for a revolutionary new massage – an eco-friendly alternative to traditional hot stones. While stones require electric heating, lava shells are the massage tools – you need to see and feel it, to believe it! Taking genuine tigerstripped clam shells from the Pacific where they form part of the local communities’ day-to-day diet, the new therapy is based on the shells’ natural ability to heat up internally, without the need for heaters. All that is needed is Lava Gel, a combination of a salt-water activator and a blend of minerals, sea kelp and algae, which is placed in the centre of the shell, naturally heating it from within. Shell therapy offers a uniquely intense and comforting massage. Be the first to introduce this exquisite Lava Shell Massage to your clients. Use it to create a new promotion and delight them, while

For more information on Lava Shells phone 0403 506 642 visit www.rejuvi.com.au or email info@rejuvi.com.au increasing your revenue.

Cellulite, lack of tone and dimples is a common beauty frustration that affects 95% of women and even men, regardless of shape, weight or fitness levels. Unfortunately, this annoying and accumulated fat cannot be shifted through diet and exercise alone. SKEYNDOR now has the solution with the launch of their impressive Cosmetic Cavitation Treatment, the most evolved and technologically advanced Cavitation concept available for aesthetic application. Inspired by the effects produced by ultrasound techniques and an innovative strategy, this treatment offers a targeted approach, addressing even the most resistant and persistent cellulite. A prescriptive, holistic and effective 3-step approach treating the causes that trigger cellulite, the effects it has on the skin and the delay and prevention of the formation of new cellulite. SKEYNDOR Cosmetic Cavitation Treatment addresses the potential causes of cellulite by applying a selection of plant essences to the Meridian points that correspond to circulatory and endocrine systems to address imbalances. Cavitation action of the innovative ingredients produces results on both cell structure and connective tissue levels, aiming to diminish the appearance of fat cells from the fibrous capsule compressing them and minimising the orange peel effect. Also available is Cavitation Cream

Contact Vogue Image Group Phone 1 800 55 4545 or (03) 9821 0033. recommended for home use between treatments.

All Things Pure – The new Certified Organic range from Bioelements Bioelements are launching their exciting new range ALL THINGS PURE – an 100% Natural and Certified Organic product range to complement their existing, power-packed cosmeceutical ingredient range. The two-year research and development has paid off as they can now boast that the four products released have been formulated to perfection. Every ingredient has been audited by the Natural Products Association for its purity and integrity and Bioelements are delighted to receive their stamp of approval through their “real-deal-seal”. They engaged expert “green” chemists who understood that besides being pure, the product had to really perform, feel great on the skin and be efficient to use. All Things Pure concentrates on natural ingredients only. Two products have met with the strict labelling standards of “certified organic” and all four products meet with the standard of 100% natural. All Things Pure was developed for the purists who prefer 100% Certified Organic as their product of choice. Bioelements also offers a comprehensive range of high-performing formulations that deliver impressive results, such as CreateFirm, Quick Refiner and Power Peptide, as well as Sleepwear for Eyes. Now with All Things Pure salons and spas can have the best of both worlds and meet the

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diverse requirements of modern consumer needs.

contact Absolute Spa 1300 262 275.

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For further details

APJ 78

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Beauty Feet™

The ultimate and easiest solution to flawless feet!

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Rebuild the skin with 2B Bio-Peel 2B Bio-Peel is a peel with a difference. Consisting of highly active herbs, it offers a quality 100% natural treatment that activates the skin and delivers noticeable improvement to many skin conditions. 2B Bio-Peel utilised original microdermabrasion product technology. It allows the Beauty Therapist to perform a quick and easy professional treatment in the salon without complex equipment. Unlike other peels, which only work on the surface, 2B Bio-Peel activates the exfoliation from within. The therapist is in full control of the peel and can individualise the peel to her client’s needs. 2B Bio Peel is a beauty treatment with immediate results. It is suitable for all skin conditions from antiageing needs to active acne and scarring. The 2B Bio-Beauty skincare range is small, affordable and professional. All training is delivered in your salon. A good supply of promotional products

Contact Patrician Mangano, Patou Aesthetics Distributions Ph: 07 4057 8365 or 0419 665 383 www.patou.com.au Email: patriciamangano@hotmail.com.

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Beauty Feet™ has been developed to assist in revealing flawless feet to meet the demands of hectic schedules in today’s society. It is the most convenient and hassle-free way to take your feet back in time – the time when you were a child. Beauty Feet™ is scientifically proven effective, manufactured and tested to the utmost precision to assist in the prevention and treatment of dry calluses caused by excessive day-to-day friction. Unlike any product on the market it prevents callus build-up without scrubbing, filing, sanding, scrapping or applying heel balms, which may lead to additional calluses after skin regeneration. These socks are filled with liquid solutions for the ultimate beautifying effect. The simple to follow steps will take off chapped layers of unwanted skin in no time! Beauty Feet™ is Australia’s first to prevent and treat calluses, based on the concept of natural skin peeling. The same principle applies in nature with animals and plants when they shed their own skin - the natural way. Ingredients in Beauty Feet™ are organically derived from nature.

Please quote the promotional code “APJ0168” to redeem your special introductory offer from BeautWise™: Buy 12 get 1 FREE. Buy 24 get 3 FREE (while stocks last). 07 3012 9494 enquiries@beautwise.com.au

and samples are available.

COLLAGEN ACTIVATING COMPLEX with Edelweiss Stem Cells Recognising the importance of rebuilding the skin after exfoliation, Dermaquest has also launched Collagen Activating Complex to support and enhance skin-renewal results after exfoliation. This advanced product contains cell-regenerating plants including distinctive Phytostem Edelweiss plant stem cells to repair tissue and support the reproduction and building of collagen such as Actifirm TS and ASCIII. Recommended pre and post-professional treatment for optimal collagen restructuring and wound repair. Stem cells provide anti-oxidant support, cell-regenerating benefits as well as cell preservation against the appearance of ageing. Collagen Activating Complex promises you a new level of results in skin tone and skin renewal.

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PHYTO-PUMPKIN TONER packed with nutrients Rebalancing the skin’s pH mantle is vital, particularly after peels both mechanical and chemical. Phyto-Pumpkin Nourishing Toner from A Natural Difference offers this benefit and more. A natural organic solution formulated from fermented pumpkin, releasing hidden treasures, vitamin, mineral and enzymes to restore the skin’s immunity and tone and nourish it. A totally wholesome product that contains pumpkin wine, aminoguanidine, clover, gingers and cinnamon that makes it also refreshing and deliciously aromatic.

For further details contact SCHE Ph: 1800 628 999.

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For further information phone Clinic Care 1300 799 709.

APJ 79

獰潴汩杨琠潮⁰牯摵捴 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲㌺㌰⁐


New Professional Glycolic Acid Peels with STEM CELLS from the Lilac flower

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New DUO COLLAGEN MASK from BeautWise™ This soluble crystal gel mask, the Duo Collagen Mask, is a newly developed, epoch-making beauty product that supports the skin’s elasticity. Duo Collagen Mask dissolves into lukewarm water (about 40 degrees Celsius) as you rub it into the skin. Different from the traditional woven cloth face masks, this spa-quality face mask provides you with a professional skin care regime as well as a relaxing experience. The smooth and translucent Duo Collagen Mask covers the face neatly, while nourishing and leaving the skin with an exceptional refreshing hit. Key ingredients include marine collagen, hyaluronic acid, aloe extract and vitamin E. As a secondary application, the Duo Collagen Mask can be used as a moisturising gel for the whole body. Just let it dissolve in lukewarm water and rub it into the skin. The soluble nature of the Duo Collagen Mask is an eco-friendly product that is 100% biodegradable. Our products offer residual income for your salon, repeat business and a small

Please quote the promotional code “APJ168” to redeem your special introductory offer from BeautWise™. Buy 12 get 1 FREE. Buy 24 get 3 FREE (while stocks last). Phone 07 3012 9494 or email: enquiries@beautwise.com.au outlay for great returns!

Based on stem cell technology, Dermaquest has just launched a new glycolic peel range – a first of its kind. The range consists of three “Professional Use Only” formulations of different strength — Glycolic Acid Resurfacer (30%) with Stem Cells, with 40% strength and 70% strength (for physician use only). These are professional resurfacing treatments to support age management concerns and also assist with the treatment of Grade-0 noninflammatory acne.

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These unique resurfacers are formulated with stem cells from Lilac Syringa Vulgaris, the latest in anti-ageing technology. Their advanced formula with anti-inflammatory and soothing plant extracts make advanced results possible without the high levels of irritation normally associated with professional strength glycolic peels. The launch of these innovative products heralds a new and exciting era in cometic formulations that promises to step up

For further information phone Clinic Care 1300 799 709. results from past treatment outcomes.

Warm up to the glow and ambience of Pure Organic Soy Candles

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Exquisite Ambience boasts at being one of the few manufacturers who offer high-quality ORGANIC Soy Candles with natural fragrances creating a welcoming environment without the toxicity associated with artificial fragrances found in standard candles. Available in a variety of delicious aromas from Bulgarian Rose, Zesty Lime, Berry, Mango and Melon, Honeysuckle and Jasmine. If you love food aromas you will also adore their Chocolate, Mocha and Creme Broulee. Available in 8hour tea lights as well as 280ml and 500ml glass containers with lids in Belle shape (round) and Metro (pillar shaped). Purchase them to increase the ambience in your salon as well as introduce them as a retail item. If you wish they could include your own label and phone number so they can also become an instant promotional item for your salon or spa. With 100% markup they are also an excellent moneymaker. For further details contact 07 5593 0360

or Email: info@kharis.com

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APJ 80

獰潴汩杨琠潮⁰牯摵捴 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲㌺㌲⁐


Fight the signs of ageing with Firming & Tightening Serum from A Natural Difference

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As skin ages it loses its tone and its capacity to retain moisture. Firming and Tightening Serum is a new generation moisture and tone activating serum developed by A Natural Difference to address these dual concerns. This incredible formulation retards and reverses damage by fortifying the skin’s natural repair functions. Containing peptide such as Argireline, Clycin Soya, Coconut milk powder, Phospholipids, Silymarin, Hyaluronic acid and Sphingolipids, this formulation offers serious skin repair and anti-ageing benefits for a more youthful-looking skin..

For further details contact SCHE Phone: 1800 628 999.

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Fruitopia Pineapple & Pumpkin Enzyme Peel Good enough to eat, deliciously aromatic with a phyto-pumpkin enzyme peel that is gentle enough for all skin types including sensitive skin, yet strong enough to penetrate beneath the surface without stripping the skin of its acid mantle. This delicious mask combines the exfoliating power of lactic acid with natural, active pumpkin enzymes (protease). It refines the skin and boosts collagen production for a smoother and firmer complexion. Pumpkin is known to be the highest source of natural vitamin A, along with over 100 other beneficial vitamins and nutrients. Alpha hydroxy acids have been shown to promote smoother, youngerlooking skin by increasing the rate of cellular renewal. This peel is ideal for the treatment of acne, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines and wrinkles. It features a blend of vitamins A, Ester-C and E, Coenzyme Q10 and Alpha Lipoic Acid, which supply the skin with powerful antioxidants and protect it against free radicals. Its divine aroma invigorates the senses and lingers to provide a subtle scent, while the renewed skin is left glowing and refined. Phone: 0400 299 692

Web: www.bellenaturalskincare.com.au Email: belinda@bellenaturalskincare.com.au

Strawberry & Cinnamon Microdermabrasion Scrub

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Belle Natural Skincare are renowned for their high-performance products. One of the most popular is the Strawberry and Cinnamon Microdermabrasion Scrub, which is packed with the power of micro-crystals for an ultra-efficient exfoliating result designed to take skincare to a new level. This resurfacing microdermabrasion scrub gently buffs skin to drive out dead skin cells and entrenched contaminants. The product is further fortified with a unique blend of actives to brighten the skin. These include extracts of cinnamon and strawberry, rich in vitamin C and polyphenols, honey and apple, high in alpha-hydroxy acids, magnesium, potassium, calcium, Vitamin B and zinc, all working their magic to reveal younger, healthier looking skin. The precious minerals, proteins and essential oils improve the visible signs of ageing. This is a safe and effective product and is always in high demand by salons and their clients. Phone Belle Natural Skincare:

0400 299 692 Web: www.bellenaturalskincare.com.au Email: belinda@bellenaturalskincare.com.au

The latest in Diamond Microdermabrasion Comfortel brings you the latest in skincare technology with their new Diamond Microdermabrasion system. Diamond Microdermabrasion is one of the most popular skincare treatments on the market, as the procedure is easy, non-invasive and extremely effective in preparing the skin for better results. This is an advanced method of exfoliating the skin, as it smooths, polishes the epidermis and helps stimulate collagen production in the deeper layers of the skin to create healthy, fresh and glowing skin. Acne, scarring, congestion and pigmentation are just some of the conditions that can be improved by using Diamond Microdermabrasion. The Diamond Microdermabrasion system from Comfortel comes with 10 different diamond-encrusted tips and adjustable intensity settings and a timer to ensure that treatments can be tailored to suit each skin condition requirement. Comfortel’s Diamond Microdermabrasion system is available at a very competitive price. Contact Comfortel on (03)

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9553 5504 for more information or visit www.comfortel.com.au

APJ 81

獰潴汩杨琠潮⁰牯摵捴 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲㌺㌶⁐


ingredient Part of that protocol should be the use of transdermal magnesium, for without sufficient magnesium the other nutritional elements don’t have optimal effect. Magnesium calms inflammation, assists with detoxification, helps the blood flow freely and carry oxygen to the cells, and is a vital ingredient to make collagen for cellular integrity. It also helps to soften, hydrate and smooth the skin, alleviating that dry, itchy feeling. The problem with oral supplements is the inefficiency of digestion and absorption. According to Dr Mark Sircus, even the best oral supplements are not more than 40% bio-available. If you were to take enough oral supplements to supply your real magnesium needs you’re likely to give yourself the runs, in which case you are losing that magnesium too quickly.

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However, transdermal magnesium absorption (using natural magnesium chloride salts) allows the body to take up the magnesium ions it needs and no more. The ions go through the skin, into the bloodstream and then to the tissue cells. As a consequence, more of the magnesium is taken up by the cells without potential bowel irritation or digestive problems. But you have to use it every day, because, like food, you can’t take up a whole week’s worth of magnesium all on one day.

APJ 2. Can you tell us how to use magnesium to alleviate the symptoms of psoriasis?

How Magnesium can assist Skin Disorders By Sandy Sanderson B.A. In the previous issue of APJ we interviewed Sandy Sanderson,who shared with us some of the wonderful new discoveries of how magnesium can assist the body and how it can be used. The article was received with great enthusiasm from our readers so we asked Sandy to be interviewed again and this time discuss with us how magnesium can benefit a variety of skin disorders. As magnesium has transdermal capabilities it does not necessarily need to be applied to the face in order to assist the skin, but we will leave the subject to Sandy. We trust you will equally enjoy this article and gain some valuable information.

APJ 1. Can you give us recommendations on how magnesium can be used for disorders such as psoriasis? Our skin is a revealing window to the inside of the body. What skin disorders like psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis have in common is that they are part of an accentuated immune-system response when the liver and kidneys are struggling with elimination of toxins. Stimuli such as poor diet, lifestyle, exposure to pesticides, chemicals and heavy metals can trigger an immune response causing inflammation of the mucosa (sinus, lungs, intestinal wall) and/or inflammation of the skin such as red spots, raised skin rashes, itchiness, etc. Successfully addressing skin disorders will depend on two major factors – cleansing/detox, as well as building the body up through nutritional balancing

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I recommend the support of a qualified naturopath as a wise consideration. They can design an appropriate program to assist in this regard.

It is important that Elektra magnesium chloride solution or cream is applied anywhere on the body – but not necessarily directly on an inflamed area. There are many ways to use the salts (flakes). You can make a mouthwash solution: Using the mouthwash after brushing twice a day inhibits the build-up of calcification on the teeth – a great side benefit. You can also make up a body spray. However, magnesium bathing is deliciously relaxing! My favourite is the magnesium footsoak half an hour before bed. The other way to absorb magnesium is via our Elektra Magnesium Cream – a proprietary formulation of natural plant butters and oils infused with magnesium and whipped into a silky smooth consistency. It is rich, nutritious and hydrating — ideal for normal-todry skins. In a dessertspoonful (enough to cover the whole body) there is approximately 300mg of elemental magnesium. People with high magnesium requirements may need a combination of both the flakes in solution plus the cream applications.

APJ3. If someone is very toxic can they experience a healing crisis? Yes, there can be a spectrum of detox reactions depending on the severity of the toxic body burden, but for optimal wellness those toxins must come out. Accumulating them over time leads to disease and poor quality of life. Sufficient magnesium will displace heavy metals and chemicals in the body and cause you to start excreting the offending toxins (including accumulated fluoride). If this happens too fast it can lead to what is called a ‘healing crisis’ where the dumping of toxins from the tissue cells into the bloodstream can cause headache, fatigue, lump under the armpit, extra inflammation or rash etc. Some people may be tempted to think they are ‘allergic’ to magnesium. However, your body loves and needs magnesium in plentiful supply in order to be well. The reaction occurs because of the offending toxins, but is usually only short term. A good naturopath can guide you through this process (see next page).

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APJ 4. How can magnesium help with acne? Acne usually results from hormonal cycles and/or toxic body burdens that throw out our pH balance. What we see on the surface is bacterial infection, however, just like with intestinal bacterial infection, those bacteria would not proliferate if they didn’t have the right

APJ 82

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environmental conditions. It is not so much the overactive sebaceous glands that is the problem, but more the toxins and their resulting acidity that promote growth of bacteria and their by-products, which then leads to inflammatory responses such as pus build-up.

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Restoring an alkaline nutritional balance is essential. Due to overactive oil glands in this condition the solution of magnesium flakes and water would be better than the cream application. Regular daily magnesium sprays will help reduce the pore size of skin and refine it. For extra magnesium I recommend adding the mouthwash and footsoaks. You can use a good anti-bacterial skin preparation to help get rid of the bacteria faster, but if you do this without changing the internal nutritional environment, the bacterial colonies will only bounce back.

APJ 5. When using magnesium for skin ailments what other benefits can one expect in the body? Everything is connected. As I said at the start, the skin is a window to the whole body. When the inside-balance is restored it shows on the skin as a radiant complexion. All skin disorders are variations of an inflammatory response from the immune system. Dry skin can indicate adrenal and thyroid problems, which can result from heavy metal and chemical exposures, excessive stress and nutritional deficiencies – particularly magnesium. Acne, prone skin is an indicator that the endocrine system is under stress, with pH too acidic, encouraging proliferation of pathogens. Excess copper load is one example that is characterised by skin eruptions and acne. Mercury is also notorious for lowering body pH, which weakens the immune system, thereby encouraging growth of fungi like candida albicans, which is associated with the development of cancers. Some scientists now believe that even skin cancers are caused by pathogens, but they’re only there because of a free lunch on toxic wastes and acids (aka sugars).

What we want, what we need to be healthy, is for magnesium to come back into the body in sufficient quantities to take its rightful place in the cells, expelling the disruptive, corrosive and anaerobic toxic elements. Magnesium is the alkalising electrolyte mineral that has been referred to as the ‘master mineral’ or the ‘king of the minerals’ – even ‘the miracle magnesium’. I like to refer to it as the conductor of the orchestra of nutrients in the body.

Skin irritations from fungal overgrowth occur mostly in the sweat, collecting areas such as underneath the breasts or the groin area. In addition to an alkaline nutritional protocol you can also apply iodine (Lugol’s solution or similar generic) with a cotton bud to the affected area before bed each night. The iodine is absorbed safely through the skin. If it is fully absorbed in 24 hours (no more yellow colour on skin) then you by Samantha Enders B.Bus. Adv Dip NAT, ANTA have been iodine deficient. Iodine is a very powerful Renew You, Centre for Wellbeing & Longevity natural anti-bacterial and anti-fungal agent. It’s a good In order to achieve effective detoxification a cleansing program needs to be idea to keep topping up this way from time to time. determined by a qualified healthcare professional that is individualised to the person’s specific needs. This is usually done after careful evaluation of the origin And the ‘biggy’ is stress. Stress (too hot, too cold, awake and contributing factors of the toxic overload. Once this is determined an too long, psychological, physical, chemical, appropriate strategy is designed to achieve the desired cleansing and pharmaceutical, alcohol/substance abuse) can cause you strengthening of the various organs and systems. to have magnesium wastage (excrete too much In our clinic, we use a variety of diagnostic tools to assess and determine common magnesium), setting you up for chronic deficiency, links and the weakest links that have contributed to the toxicity levels in the body. which leads to degenerative diseases, including cancer, Once these are determined a systemic cleansing strategy is applied that also heart disease, diabetes, obesity stroke, mental illness and strengthens the immune system. immune-system disorders, depending on your genetic inheritance. Throughout this process the client’s progress is carefully monitored. The aim is to strength the organs and systems and optimise their function by addressing the causes of inflammation and biological and environmental stress. The main reason why stress is such a killer is because it depletes magnesium, the cell protector. When This process of cleansing allows the body to better respond to a detoxification magnesium is low the body will take up more heavy program, minimising or possibly eliminating the possibility of a healing crisis metals as a substitute in the same receptor sites. This during the detoxification process. A healing crisis occurs when toxicity is released creates more acidity,which results in body stress, which from various organs into a circulatory system that is already overloaded. This can equals more magnesium depletion, leading to a dismal contribute to headaches, migraines and sometimes feeling bilious and unwell. downward spiral. A sure sign that you have a toxic However, with the correct cleansing and preparation of the body the detoxification process can be introduced without the stress of a healing crisis as the body is now overload is chronic fatigue, or excess fat accumulation better able to handle it. even when not overeating.

Pre-detox recommendation advice

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APJ 83

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salon business

How to maximise on your best resource – Your Staff by Oscar Yildiz

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BA, Dip Ed Managing Director of Educall Training Solutions

Ralph M Ford, professor of engineering, made a wise statement when he said that success is an inside job. Ford knew the value of human resources to any project and so should we if we are trying to run a successful business.

Many salon owners fail to respect and value the most important and valuable resource in their businesses – their staff. Knowing how to look after them is so important, because if you do they will look after you, and more importantly, your clients and your business. It is a fact that both the number of clients you gain and the quality of your clients will be directly reflected on the quality of your staff and how well they have been trained and looked after. Employees come first, not customers, yet some salon owners will introduce marketing campaigns, purchase more equipment and invest in new technology, but fail to invest in improving their staff who are supposed to drive the business.

WHAT CAN YOUR STAFF BRING TO THE BUSINESS? Your employees know what works and what doesn’t, and this is because daily they interface with your clients. It is therefore important that you gain their trust and empower them to share their observations with you. Implement and administer an open and honest policy, offer and ask your staff for their opinions, ideas, comments, suggestions and advice. This will not only empower, inspire, motivate and engage them, but it will also demonstrate respect and appreciation for their contribution, which will boost their morale.

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HIRING THE RIGHT STAFF Having good insight and giving the recruitment process the attention it deserves is what separates good managers. In fact, recruitment is one

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of the most critical aspects of management, ㈵

Good managers who can identify good candidates are the best recruiters. They always hire people who are positive and are passionate about what they do and what they get involved in. In a recent survey of managers the question was asked as to how much more productive are the best performers over the average ones? The answer to that question is that they are three times more productive and accountable than the average workers.

Choose staff members who demonstrate passion and enthusiasm as they have the potential be become top performers. They can, and will have, a very large impact on your business, including achieving high results, client satisfaction, improved turnover and most importantly, client retention and loyalty. Once you have identified them continue to invest in their training and professional development. Encourage their momentum for results and show them how they can continue to do better. Did you know that it can cost up to seven times more to recruit a new staff member than to further invest, train and develop your current ones? When selecting a staff member, take the matter seriously. Don’t just hire a new candidate because you can’t find anyone else. Many organisations do make this mistake and hire someone they think will cost them less, even if they are not the right candidate and regret it later. It is wise to allocate a recruitment budget and give the process the respect and time it deserves. You must remember that over the long term that “average” staff member could cost you the loss of clients and one day possibly even your business. Another consideration is to look to hire people who are flexible and demonstrate an interest to fit within your organisation and embrace its values, mission, ethics and culture. “What if I spend all this time to train my staff member and they leave?” you may ask. Consider the other side of the coin – what if you don’t train them and they stay? Once you have identified the qualities you are looking for in a staff member and have recruited them, invest in their training. Your investment will pay off because a good employee can offer you many benefits. Here is what you can expect: ! Improve morale and exhibit a contagious positive attitude by assisting and supporting others in your organisation – which in turn improves staff retention. ! A well-trained staff member can increase customer loyalty, retention, sales and overall results. ! They can contribute to better ideas, initiatives, marketing and housekeeping practices. As they engage positively with their work they can exhibit a desire to improve the overall ambience of the business, including the merchandising, lighting, music and products. ! An enthusiastic staff member will find it easy to market your organisation to others, and we all know the power of “word of mouth” advertising. ! An enthusiastic and well-trained staff member can be trusted to manager and operate the salon, while you focus on working on the business.

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APJ 84

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Time away from the business can not only contribute to the establishment of better controls, but will allow you to view the various operational departments with a new level of objectivity, which you could not achieve if you are constantly working in the business.

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As a manager, a golden rule to implement is to encourage your staff to treat their positions as a career, not just another job! If you can achieve this you will be well rewarded. Statistics on staff performance confirm that 98 per cent of staff will repay your recognition, appreciation and support with performance.

STAFF TURNOVER The reason for investing in staff development is that you will be rewarded with their retention. Staff turnover is a costly exercise. Changing staff will also affect your clients’ perception of your salon. Furthermore, the service, products, brand/reputation and overall sales will depend on the attitude of your new staff member and how well they respond and embrace their responsibilities in providing good service. Until they become competent, you may also have to deal with a certain level of service failures. From this we can see that losing a good staff member who knows your products, culture, values and whom you have trained and invested time and money in will ultimately impact on your bottom line. It is a well-known fact that people leave people, not businesses, so make sure that you look after good staff and identify and rectify any communication problems.

Phone: 02 9966 0250 Investing in keeping your staff happy and productive is one of the best investments you can offer your business. As Bob Ansett, who was one of Australia’s most successful employers, once said, “If you want a team that does an ordinary thing extraordinarily well, does it consistently, and has fun doing it, you will need enthusiastic people.”

Oscar Yildiz holds a Diploma in Education from La Trobe University as well as a Bachelor of Arts majoring in Legal Studies and Economics also from La Trobe. He is the Managing Director of Educall Training Solutions – a Melbourne-based business that was established in 2007. Educall supports managers and professionals to refine their skills and ensure their organisation thrives in a fiercely competitive and turbulent economy. Educall specialises in the training of crucial soft skills that enable rapidly changing businesses to generate measurable, bottom-line results. Educall clients have benefited from a range of training programs including, Leadership, Team Building, Management, Customer Service, Time Management, Assertiveness, Telephone Te c h n i q u e s , E v e n t M a n a g e m e n t , P r e s e n t a t i o n / E m c e e Tr a i n i n g a n d Occupational Health and Safety. Among its various achievements Educall also won the 2009 Victorian Small Business Champion Awards for the category of Educational Services as well as the National Award for this category.

If you would like Oscar Yildiz to assist you with your business you can contact him at Educall Training Solutions phone 03 8300 8668 Mobile: 0413 850 357 or email: oscar@educall.com.au

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APJ 85

潳捡爠慲瑩捬 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲〺ㄹ⁐


ingredients ㄰

Isotretinoin A drug not to be taken lightly by Terry Everitt For as long as I can remember, the drug Isotretinoin has been an absolute contraindication to many aesthetic treatments. It is important to have an understanding of this widely prescribed drug and the effects it has on the body, particularly the skin. Roaccutane impacts greatly on the decision of treatment by the skincare professional. Hopefully this article will better inform you of the drug and the seriousness of it. In Australia, Roaccutane is one the trade names used for the Isotretinoin drug. In most other countries it is known as Accutane. This trade name is produced worldwide by Roche Laboratories (who also are the largest manufacturer of Vitamin A and its derivatives). It also appears under the trade name of Accure™ or Oratane™ from Douglas Pharmaceuticals in New Zealand and in a gel form called Isotrex™ Gel from Stiefel Laboratories. It is classified as a Schedule 4 and a Schedule 7 drug. This drug also carries a Class X warning. (See below).

WHAT DOES IT DO?

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Isotretinoin, or more chemically correctly named, 13-cisisotretinoic acid, is a retinoid that inhibits sebaceous gland function and decreases their size. It inhibits keratinisation and it also decreases the enzyme collagenase, which is essential for the proper breakdown and reconstruction of the skin’s dermal collagen levels. Because of significant adverse effects associated with its use, isotretinoin should be reserved for patients with severe recalcitrant nodular acne who are unresponsive to conventional therapy.

DOSAGE ㈵

The actual dose is worked out on a milligram (mg) to kilogram (Kg) of weight ratio. This is then rounded out to the capsule strength of 10 or 20 mg. It is recommended that for most

patients the initial dose of isotretinoin be 0.5 to 1 mg/kg/day. Usually taken as one daily dose with meals, or it can (under instruction) be taken as a divided dose daily. The response should be assessed at 3-4 weeks and the treatment cycle will normally last for 15-20 weeks. A rest of 8-16 weeks is recommended, before another cycle is started. The longer the treatment the better the effects, however, about 40% of patients have a relapse within three years of therapy. There is a latent effect in that acne continues improvement for up to eight weeks post-treatment due to the drug’s half-life (explained later in the article).

SIDE-EFFECTS The incidence and severity of most adverse effects appear to be dose related, peaking within weeks of dose increments and then generally improving as the body adapts and the patient gets used to taking extra skin and mucosal care, and other precautions. Due to the effects on the body, liver function, blood works and pregnancy tests are undertaken prior to its use. Taking other forms of Vitamin A is to be avoided while on this drug, as this can worsen any side-effects. Tetracycline antibiotics taken with isotretinoin also can cause side-effects.

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The drug manufacturers give very clear (and frightening) warnings in the documentation that comes with the drug and their instructions to doctors. For clarity, I have reduced two pages of these instructions regarding Roaccutane down to these highlights. ! Sore/cracked lips (90%) ! Dry, scaly skin (80%)

APJ 86

楳潴牥瑩湯楮 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱㐺㌲⁐


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! ! ! ! ! !

Skin peeling (50%) Dry mouth and nose (80%) Nosebleeds (30%) Fatigue and headaches (60%) Blurred vision/poor night vision (80%) Muscle aches/joint pain (50%) The percentage is the estimated number of patients who experience the symptoms.

Although less frequent, the following side-effects are much more serious:

! ! ! ! ! ! !

Depression Elevated triglycerides Inflammation of bowel Inflammation of liver with impaired function Deposits in cornea of eye Decreased tolerance to contact lenses Increased susceptibility to UVR.

The warning the manufacturer puts in bold within its own text box is Pseudotumor Cerebri (benign intracranial hypertension). Early signs of this include headaches, nausea, vomiting and visual disturbances. If such symptoms are noticed, Roaccutane should be stopped immediately and a neurologist seen for diagnosis. The other big warning is pregnancy, outlined below. Another problem in the side-effects department is depression and suicide associated with this drug, although it appears this may be more media related than actual. Delayed wound healing has been reported as a side-effect, as may be seen with healing inflammatory acne lesions. An occasional exaggerated healing response, manifested by exuberant granulation tissue with crusting, has been reported in patients receiving therapy with Isotretenoin. It is also recommended that patients do not donate blood during therapy and for at least one month following discontinuance of the drug. Isotretinoin has been listed 10 times on the Australian Adverse Drug Reactions Bulletin, which is an indication of the concern that this drug has in the medical community. Did you know that only a dermatologist is allowed to prescribe the drug in Australia? While it is known that other doctors have prescribed it, this is not widespread, and is allowed under specific circumstances. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

The National Drugs and Poisons Schedule Committee, in its 54th meeting held October 2008, received submissions to allow general practitioners to prescribe Isotretenoin. However, after debate, RESOLUTION 2008/54 – 22 was passed, which read; ‘The Committee decided that the current entry for Isotretinoin remained appropriate’. That is, dermatologists only are allowed to prescribe the drug. The issue has not been revisited in subsequent meetings.

PREGNANCY PROBLEMS (This is taken direct from the patient information sheet from the manufacturer.)

Major human fetal abnormalities related to Roaccutane administration have been documented: CNS abnormalities (including cerebral abnormalities, cerebellar malformation, hydrocephalus, microcephaly, cranial nerve deficit); skull abnormality; external ear abnormalities (including anotia, micropinna, small or absent external auditory canals); eye abnormalities (including microphthalmia); cardiovascular abnormalities; facial dysmorphia; cleft palate; thymus gland abnormality; parathyroid hormone deficiency. In some cases death has occurred with certain of the abnormalities previously noted. Cases of IQ scores less than 85 with or without obvious CNS abnormalities have also been reported. There is an increased risk of spontaneous abortion. In addition, premature births have been reported. (All in all, this is a serious drug!)

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In most pregnancies, exposure to oral Isotretinoin causes severe birth defects. Even babies born without obvious central nervous system abnormalities may be mentally retarded. Every reasonable precaution must be taken to ensure female patients are not, nor become, pregnant while taking Isotretinoin. Although Isotretinoin and its metabolites are not stored in the body and are eliminated within weeks of stopping therapy, effective birth control is necessary, from one month before the start of treatment until one month after the end of treatment.

PHARMACOKINETICS The drug is 99.9% bound in human plasma, almost exclusively to albumin. The terminal elimination half-life of Isotretinoin ranged from 10 to 20 hours in volunteers and patients. Following an 80-mg oral dose of Isotretinoin, activity in blood declined with a half-life of 90 hours. This means that for every tablet taken, the drug is still in the system for some 90 hours later – this increases due to the accumulative effect of the dose and the length of time the drug is in use.

AESTHETIC TREATMENTS This half-life is the concern as the drug remains in the tissues for a long time after stopping the use of the drug. The effects on the body and particularly the skin remain, which can cause many problems in your treatment results. Ideally you should get consent from the prescribing doctor prior to any treatment (other than very calming/hydrating facials). No exfoliation of any type – waxing, scrubs, microdermabrasion, peels, etc– should not be performed. Here, the question for consideration is how long do you need to wait until beginning exfoliating treatments? There is no magic answer, as the effect and residual effect is different for everyone.

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APJ 87

楳潴牥瑩湯楮 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱㐺㌲⁐


As a rough rule of thumb, however, I suggest to be conservative when working out when it may be safe for aesthetic treatments. Double the time they were on the drug to the time they have taken the last capsule. If invasive treatments are planned it may be better to add at least another month. This would correspond to, for example, if the patient has been on the drug for three months and the last capsule was taken on 30th January, you would wait until the 30th July at the earliest prior to commencing an aesthetic treatment on this patient. Plus you can add an extra month, bringing you to 30th August, before performing any more invasive treatments. Whatever the treatment, do a patch test first. It is better to lift a little skin than a whole area of skin from the treatment you undertook.

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Isotretinoin is a serious drug with many possible side-effects, so always ask your clients not only if they are taking this drug, but also if they have ever taken it. It is not enough just to ask about Roaccutane as the answer may be no. Always include other names such as Accure, Oratane, Isotrex or even Accutane. This needs to be checked as it will be a big problem if you continue with some of the exfoliative treatments. Isotretinoin is a major drug with serious side-effects, which should not be taken lightly. Unfortunately, there is a lot of pressure put on some doctors by their patients to be prescribed this drug for acne that is not as serious to warrant the use of such a drug. If you have a client that is considering this drug, do mention to them the severity of the side-effects and the rate of recurrence. It is a very successful drug, but it should be accorded the seriousness that it deserves. It really is the drug of last resort for severe acne and definitely not the drug of choice for the occasional pimple. I trust that this information will prove helpful in helping you understand this drug and why it features so prominently as a contraindication in aesthetic care.

REFERENCES: Isotretinoin. Product information enclosure, Hoffmann-La Roche Dr Upfal J. Australian Drug Guide 6th ed. Schwartz Publishing, Melbourne. 2003 Furman R. (RPh). Drugs and Cosmetics. CRF Publications, Studio City, CA. 2000. Terry Everitt is known as a Master Aesthetician in Advanced Clinical Aesthetics and lectures at medical and aesthetic conferences, both in Australia and internationally, while also being an educationalist in the development of quality assurance learning. He is also a consultant in legislative compliance requirements within the vocational education and training environment. Terry holds membership with the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M), Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Australian Institute of Training and Development and the Australian Institute of Management among others. He can be contacted on 0414 483 758.

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APJ 88

楳潴牥瑩湯楮 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱㐺㌵⁐


taxation ㄰

2009-2010 Tax Return Checklist

Are you claiming all your deductions?

We have had requested by members to assist with recommendations on what deductions they are entitled to claim this year. It should be understood that the issue of taxation is within the jurisdiction of a qualified accountant and you should seek proper advice from a qualified tax professional for the correct lodgement of Tax Returns. The information provided below however, is intended to assist you only in making sure the relevant provisions are taken advantage of and to ensure that your full entitlements are presented to your taxation officer. The following checklist is appropriate for individuals, owner operators and small business of one or two operators. If you are a larger business please refer to your accountant for a more in-depth list.

CHECK LIST FOR INDIVIDUALS AND SMALL BUSINESS OPERATORS As personal income tax rates are set to decrease from 1st July 2010, there may be an additional advance to be had by accelerating any income tax deductions into the current income year. The following are the 2009/2010 relevant tax rates for individual taxpayer’s income:

Income threshold

Tax payable

0-$6,000 $6,001-$35,000 $35,001- $80,000 $80,001 - $180,000 $180,001 and over

Nil Nil + 15% on excess over $6,000 $4,350 + 30% of excess over $35,000 $17,859 + $38% on excess over $80,000 $55,850 + 45% on excess over $180,000 Note: The Medicare levy is in addition to these rates.

COMMON WORK-RELATED CLAIMS MADE BY INDIVIDUALS The following outlines common types of deductible expenses claimed by individual taxpayers, such as employees, plus some strategies that can be adopted to increase deductions for the 2009/2010 income year.

B. CLOTHING EXPENSES Purchase of pay for work-related clothing expenses prior to the end of the income year, such as: ! Compulsory uniforms and occupation specific and protective clothing. ! Work related dry cleaning, laundry and repair expenses.

C. SELF EDUCATION EXPENSES Consider pre-paying the following self-education items before the end of the income year: ! Course fees (but not HECS-HELP fees) ! Tutorial fees and student union fees ! Interest on borrowings used to pay for any deductible selfeducation expenses. Also bring forward purchases of stationery and textbooks (i.e. those not required to be depreciated).

D. OTHER WORK RELATED EXPENSES

A. DEPRECIABLE PLANT costing $300 or less Salary and wage earners will generally be entitled to an immediate deduction if plant costing $300 or less is purchased before 1 July 2010. Some purchases you may consider include: ! Fax machines ! Books and Trade Journals ! Briefcases/luggage or suitcases ! Calculators or electronic organisers ! Software ! Stationary ! Tools of the trade

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As an employee you can pre-pay any of the following expenses prior to 1 July 2010: ! Subscriptions to trade journals ! Membership to business associations ! Magazine and newspaper subscriptions ! Seminar and Conferences ! Income protection insurance (excluding death and total/permanent disability).

INFORMATION REQUIRED FOR YOUR TAX RETURN FOR INDIVIDUALS OR SOLE TRADERS When preparing for your tax return please check the following and present your receipts and payment summaries to your accountant:

!

Payment summaries for salaries and wages

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APJ 89

瑡硡瑩潮 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲㌺㔲⁐


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! ! ! ! ! ! !

Lump sun and termination payments (if applicable) Government pensions and allowances Other pensions and/or annuities Allowances (e.g. etertainment, car, tools) Interest, rent and dividends Any distributions from partnerships or trusts Detail of any assets sold that wre either used for income earning purposes or which may be caught by capital gains tax.

ADDITIONAL DEDUCTIONS ! Award transport allowance claims ! Bank and government charges on deposits ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

of income and

deductible expenses Bridge/Road tolls (travelling on business) Car Parking (when travelling on business) Conventions, Conference and Seminars Depreciation of working tools, portion of home computer Gifts or donations Home office running expenses – cleaning cooling and heating, phone, lighting and depreciation of furniture. Interest and dividend deductions – account keeping fees, ongoing managemen t fees , in teres t o n borrowings to acquire shares Advice relating to changing investments (but not setting them up). Interest on loans to purchase equipment or income earning investments. Motor vehicle expenses (business/work related) Overtime meal allowance Superannuantion contributions by sole traders or substantially unsupported taxpayers Sun protection items Tax agent fees Telephone expenses (business) Tools of the trade Rental property expenses including: Advertising expenses, council/water rates, insurance, interest, land tax, legal expenses, management fees, genuine repairs and maintenance, telephone expenses

BUDGET 2010 The following are some of the key tax measures announced in last month’s Federal Budget that are relevant from July 2010. Other tax measures announced in the Budget related to future years from 2012 and over and for this reason are not included in this report. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

INCREASE IN THE NET MEDICAL EXPENSES TAX OFFSET CLAIM THRESHOLD Fro 1 July 2010 the Government will increase the threshold above which a taxpayer may claim the 20% net medical expenses tax offset from $1,500 to $2,000 and will commence annually indexing the threshold to the CPI from 1 July 2011.

SUPERANNUATION CLEARING HOUSE: REGISTRATION DETAILS

Eligible small businesses, with fewer than 20 staff, are now able to register online to use the Government’s free Small Business Superannuation Clearing House by visiting www.medicareaustralia.gov.au/super.

The service, which commences from 1 July 2010 enables small businesses to pay their employees’ superannuation to a single location in one electronic transaction. The Clearing House will then send the contributions to the appropriate superannuation fund and employers will be able to access a record of their contribution history whenever it’s needed.

CHANGES TO THE SUPER COCONTRIBUTION The Government has announced the following two changes to the superannuation co-contribution: ! The matching rate for the co-contribution will be permanently retained at 100% or $1 for each $1 contributed (rather than 150% or $1.50), which means that the maximum co-contribution that is payable on an individual’s eligible personal non-concessional superannuation contributions will stay at $1,000 (rather than $1,500) and, ! The income thresholds for the superannuation co-contribution will be frozen for 2010/2011 and 2011/2012, meaning that the maximum co-contribution (of up to $1,000) will continue to only be available to people with incomes of up to $31,920 (the amount available then phases out for incomes up to $61,920). This means that Super fund members who are eligible to receive the Government’s super co-contribution need to ensure they make their contributions before 30th June 2010 if they want to receive their entitlement for the 2009/10 income year. To be eligible to receive a co-contribution, a taxpayer’s total income must be less than $61,920 and at least 10% of that total income must be from employment e.g. salaries and wages, or business activities. We trust this information will allow you to ensure you prepare adequately for this year’s tax return. We suggest that you discuss this with your registered taxation professional for any further requirements.

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APJ 90


business ㄰

Whether we aware or not, these have had a profound affect in our lives and what we now say and do at times stems back to these four areas. Have you ever said, “This is the way I feel about this topic, and I will not budge on this issue”. The reason for this is that your position is grounded not from an opinion, but from a belief.

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How can this information help us? In order to achieve certain desired outcomes we need to change our convictions or self-beliefs as these will in term affects our behaviour

Understanding your Strengths and Limitations through

PERSONALITY PROFILING By Phillip Fernandez A question that all generations should ask themselves that is critical to their achievements is “How real is my self-belief in my strengths and how do I accept my limitations?” The reason being is that self-belief is the one important factor that will determine our ability to achieve our objectives and personal goals. The other side of the coin, knowing and accepting our limitations is also of great value as it can protect us from potential pitfalls and therefore this knowledge can help us achieve positive outcomes. Why do we say and do things in certain ways? What influences our decisions and determines the way we behave and express ourself?

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Behaviour is predominantly shaped by our beliefs that determine and flavour our personality. On the other hand, personality is a combination of behavioural traits that we carry unconsciously throughout our life. So what influences and shapes self-belief? There are four areas that determine and shape our self-belief and contribute to why we hold certain positions and why we act in certain ways. These are: ! Generational ! Experiential ! Cultural ! Spiritual

and so produce the desired result in achieving our goals. In this article I would like to introduce you to Dr David Merrill’s concept of human behavioural patterns. These patterns are a valuable tool in helping you understand your behaviour as well as improve your communication and understanding of others. This knowledge can also be invaluable in helping you achieve your desired goals and results through a better understanding of human nature and behavioural tendencies. This theory is based on the concept that all human beings fall into one of four personality styles, which determine our communication style. This is not to say that we rigidly always fit into one style, but that overall we unconsciously act and communicate predominantly from one distinctive style. Personality typing is nothing new. Throughout history there have been many theories. As early as 400 BC Hippocrates observed similarities and differences in human behaviour and classified four distinct ‘root elements’ or traits. Hippocrates labelled these Fire, Air, Earth and Water. In 1921 Carl Jung developed four ‘types’ into four psychological functions: thinking, feeling, sensation and intuition. He then further divided these four types into ‘introversion’ and extroversion’.

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APJ 91

灥牳潮慬楴礠灲潦楬 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲〺〰⁐


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SOCIAL STYLE HUMAN PROFILING In 1964, Dr David W. Merrill, an industrial psychologist and university professor, began researching predictors of success in selling and management careers. Through his empirical studies, Merrill found that people tend to display consistent, observable behaviours. This work became the foundation of the Social Style Model. The original Social Style profiling instrument was a list of adjectives developed from an initial pool of more than 2,300 words. Study of these words revealed adjective clusters that measured dimensions of human behaviour. Through extensive factor and reliability analyses, a total of 150 adjectives measuring three scales were finalised and labelled Assertiveness, Responsiveness and Versatility. By combining the two dimensions of assertiveness and responsiveness, four patterns of behaviour or Social Style were identified. These were: Analytical, Driving, Expressive and Amiable. Since then Dr Merrill’s findings have been used extensively throughout the world in many large corporations. As a Human Strategy Specialist I have always worked with Dr Merrill’s principles and have spoken on this subject and facilitated many workshops with various companies and individuals on behavioural patterns that can be harnessed and ultimately lead to effective work performance. However, I have made it more interesting and aligned these four behavioural patters with birds. I have found that most people can easily identify with birds and so find it more easy to associate with their behavioural traits that make up their personality profiles. The first part is to examine the four quadrants in the extreme. The reason being that no-one is this extreme in the pure sense – at least I have not met one yet to date. The first part is to look vertically at the two sides of the brain. One type of person is very numbers-oriented. This person is only interested with facts and figures and likes detail and systems. However, they have little or no regard for people and their concerns. The other type of person is totally interested in people. This person is much more conscious of people’s feelings and someone that would do very well in the frontline customer service sector.

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Then we go across horizontally and look at the introvert, and of course the opposite side, being the extrovert. Society over the decades has usually put more emphasis on being the extrovert and therefore being the opposite does not bring as many opportunities. It is therefore looked upon as more of a negative trait. However, we know that this discriminate view is definitely not the case, as we can have many strengths as an introvert and equal amount of weaknesses being an extrovert. So if we can visualise a vertical line with a person that is number focused on the top and an opposite person being people focused at the bottom. We now also know that we have a

horizontal line crossing the vertical line with an introvert on one side facing the extrovert on the other. We now have a basis for four quadrants and I will describe the four types in detail.

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PERSONALITY STYLES EAGLE – The characteristics of the eagle are: Controller, task oriented, gets the job done, vision, strong leader, autocratic, extraverted, more empathy with facts and systems and procedures, NO empathy with people.

The Eagle style is very much a controller and task-orientated. They get the job done whatever the cost. They have vision and tend to be strong leaders, although they could be autocratic in the pure sense. They are extroverted and have more empathy with facts, systems and procedures rather than people. This style appears on the top right quadrant between numbers and extrovert. Even though the style is an extrovert, the emphasis is on numbers.

PEACOCK – The characteristics of a peacock are: Showy, promoter, influential, natural leader, likes to be liked, motivator, has the gift of the “gab”, extroverted, vision and big picture person, more empathy with people, not too good on detail. The Peacock style is the showy promoter who has a natural ability to influence and so is therefore a natural-born leader. Peacocks like to be noticed and also work on others liking them. They are great motivators, also have the “gift of the gab” and are usually the life of the party. They are very extroverted and have a strong empathy with people versus systems and procedures. They also have vision and always paint the big picture, but are not too good with detail. This style appears in the bottom right-hand quadrant between people and extrovert. This style is also extroverted, but with the emphasis on people.

OWL – The characteristics of the owl are: Analytical, detailed, observant, logical, strong affiliation with facts and figures, less empathy with people, not natural leaders, can occupy senior positions, more introverted. The Owl style is the analyst. Detail, observant and very much the one that people turn to for the facts. They thrive on their logical, numbering skills and usually are dominantly present in the background of many businesses. Hence this style is more introverted and would communicate well if the other person had similar interests and level of intelligence. They are not natural leaders, but are sometimes put in senior positions because of their knowledge and logical reasoning. They have a strong affiliation with facts, systems and procedures, but not with people. This style appears in the top left-hand quadrant between numbers and introvert. This style is numbers driven, but more of an introvert.

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APJ 92

灥牳潮慬楴礠灲潦楬 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨲〺〰⁐


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DOVE – The characteristics of the dove are: Supporter, good listening skills, strong empathy with people, loyal, reliable, usually occupies background, field or worker roles, more introverted and a good team player. The Dove style is a true supporter. “A friend in need is the friend indeed” is their motto. This style of person is the worker and the one that listens to orders and carries them out. They can be talkative or quiet, but one thing is definite, they have a strong affinity with people, even if they have good analytical skills. Hence they tend to be more introverted. Some people see this side of them, and for this reason they are prone to be walked on by bad managers. This style appears in the bottom lefthand quadrant between people and introvert. This style is definitely very people focused, but is more introverted.

DETERMINING YOUR STYLE The above four behavioural styles as I said earlier is in the pure sense and after reading them we can all put ourselves in all of the four categories at varying degrees. So the question you ask yourself is, “What is my dominant personality style”? The answer is that we all are born with a more dominant style and we do act in this style when we are under pressure or stress. Let me explain this by comparing the reaction of the various styles by using an analogy of being caught in a building that is in flames and your life and the life of others are in danger. The Eagle would say “There is a fire on here. No need to panic. Just pick up your belongings nearest to you and follow me to the exit, down the stairs and out the front door. We have got about five minutes. Let’s go.” A very direct response showing a person willing to take control and get the job done with little or no emotion in the delivery.

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The Peacock would say, “Right everybody, quickly get up and move towards the door and down the stairs. There is a fire in the building. We have minutes. Come on let’s go. Let’s go, go, go.” This style is more emotional and feels the urgency and of course gets the message across, but could also cause some mayhem along the way.

The Owl would say, “Ladies and gentlemen, I have just been notified that there is a fire in the building. No need to panic as we have about 10 minutes to evacuate. Just before we go, can I do a quick roll call just to ensure that all bodies are accounted for. This will help with identification if, heaven forbid, anyone

would perish in the fire. Now get your belongings, and follow me in a single file starting with the people on the right. We will go through the exit, down the stairs and out through the second door on the left. Let’s go!” This person in spite of being more of an introvert has taken control, but is painfully pedantic with the details. The Dove would say, “Well guys, I have just heard something terrible. The place is on fire and we all have to evacuate. I do not want to lose any lives here and so please don’t panic, get your things together and go through the exit sign down the stairs and out the front door. I will make sure no- one is in the bathrooms and I will follow soon. So go now please!”

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This person in true Dove fashion will always think about others first and themself last. Their style is more introverted, but their concern is really about the people.

CONCLUSION So let’s take on a real view and look at these four quadrants. The varying combinations of the four quadrants with a dominant of one, or more than one, dominant characteristic make up the personalities of the entire world’s population. What an interesting planet we live in. So each individual has a different mix. It doesn’t matter what we are, but it is important that we understand our strengths and limitations, while acknowledging and accepting them in ourself our staff and our client. With this knowledge we can have the ability to understand and communicate more effectively, which in turn will lead to more congenial relationships, whether in business or our personal life. Phillip Fernandez (Dip HR, Dip Business, Cert IV in T&A, NSAA) Phillip has over 25 years’ experience in senior management roles with Hair and Beauty companies in Australia and overseas. He is the founder and director of Wizard Business Consulting and works with SMEs across a variety of retail, wholesale/distribution and servicebased industries and selected larger organisations. Phillip acts as a coach, adviser, counsellor and mentor to businesses and delivers best practice in the areas of Human Resources, Workplace Communication, Employee Motivation and Empowerment, Business Culture and Management Performance Strategies. Phillip Fernandez can be contacted by phoning Wizard Business Consulting on 1300 747 389 or mobile: 0402 213 813. For f u r t h e r d e t a i l s v i s i t : www.businesswizards.com.au

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APJ 93


SCIENTIFIC NEWS

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This section presents news and research information relating to skin and anti-ageing discoveries. ㈵

With the upcoming 4TH

ANNUAL CONFERENCE IN ANTI-AGEING & AESTHETIC MEDICINE this section of APJ will be exclusively dedicated to information and topics that will be addressed at the Conference to be held in Melbourne on 2022ndAugust 2010 with the theme:

“Prevention: The Future of Health and Medicine”. The conference will feature lectures and workshops on three areas: ! INTERNAL MEDICINE ! MEDICAL AESTHETICS ! SELECTED WORKSHOPS There are four workshops:

>

> > >

Aesthetic Therapies: Manon Pilon full-day workshop for Aestheticians, spa therapists and aesthetic clinics. This workshop will cover concepts, technologies and business strategies. Internal Medicine: James Wilson Medical Aesthetic Procedures: Dr Martin Braun Medical Aesthetic Procedures: A M S L Wo r k s h o p ( S p o n s o r Australasian Medical & Scientific Ltd)

WHY YOU SHOULD ATTEND ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Preventing the external signs of ageing requires a delicate balance of aesthetic therapies and internal wellness, according to the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine. The 4th Annual 2010 Conference in AntiAgeing and Aesthetic Medicine will once again be held in Melbourne on August 20-22 will focus on “PREVENTION” and the interdependence of aesthetic beauty and

internal health. A5M President Dr Michael Zacharia said the Conference will demonstrate how to integrate internal medicine into aesthetics practices and showcase the latest trends in aesthetics. “Balancing aesthetic treatments with internal medicine helps to preserve the patient’s cosmetic investments,” said Dr Zacharia. “Preventing internal ageing is as important as preventing our external wrinkles. Internal and external medicine are synergistic. People want to be treated as a whole. How we feel on the outside reflects in our internal wellbeing, and any internal disorder will certainly be reflected in an older-looking exterior,” Dr Zacharia stressed. He went on to say that the future of the aesthetic industry lies in integration of internal and external medicine. Aestheticians wanting to grow their businesses and careers should also educate themselves in how to integrate internal wellness into their practice.

Keynote international speakers at the 2010 A5M Conference will include Dr Martin Braun and Dr James L. Wilson. Dr. Martin Braun is one of the world’s most accomplished and respected cosmetic rejuvenation physicians. Dr Braun will give presentations in cosmetic dermatology and aesthetic laser medicine, fillers and Botox®. Dr Braun is a pioneer in laser medicine and is Canada’s busiest Botox® doctor. He is a former family doctor and now practises exclusively in cosmetic rejuvenation. He is a Fellow of the American Society of Laser Medicine and Surgery and has presented papers recently at the American Society for

Laser Medicine and Surgery, American Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine, Canadian Society of Phlebology, the Aesthetic Show, Orlando Dermatology and Aesthetic Conference, and the International Society for Dermatologic Surgery.

Dr James L. Wilson Dr James L. Wilson is an international expert on endocrine imbalances and their impact on health, including the effects of stress on adrenal function. Dr Wilson was one of the first physicians to present adrenal fatigue as a distinct, diagnosable syndrome. He is a naturopath, one of the founding fathers of the Canadian College of Naturopathic Medicine (CCNM), Dr Wilson is listed in The International Who's Who in Medicine and is the author of international best-seller, Adrenal Fatigue: The 21st Century Stress Syndrome.

Below are items from topics that will be presented at the 4TH ANNUAL 2010 CONFERENCE IN ANTI-AGEING AND AESTHETIC MEDICINE

WINNING THE BATTLE AGAINST SKIN CANCER A leading Sydney doctor has called for GPs to take a more active role in the battle against skin cancer. Dr Farid Nassif, who will speak at the 4th Annual 2010 Conference In AntiAgeing and Aesthetic Medicine, believes GPs play a vital role in the prevention and early detection of melanoma. ㄰

Dr Nassif will discuss ways to manage melanomas and non-melanoma skin cancers and how to decrease the destructive effects and deformities associated with their removal. He will also discuss management of subclinical and pre-cancerous lesions. A recent survey by the NSW Cancer Council found that 69% of GPs in NSW have diagnosed a melanoma and 94% have

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APJ 94

獣楥湴楦楣敷 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱㤺㈷⁐


diagnosed a non-melanoma skin cancer in the past 12 months. Skin cancer is the most common cancer that is affecting humans and Australia has the highest rate of skin cancer in the world. Almost two out of every three Australians will get a skin cancer in their lifetime and more than 1700 Australians die each year from this insidious disease. “Doctors can help to curb this national tragedy by educating their patients, assessing patients for skin cancer risk and performing regular skin checks as part of their routine checkups,” Dr Nassif .

PA N - FA C I A L B O T O X ® TREATMENTS – THE NEW BOOM Botox® doctors can boost their practices by abandoning the practice of charging to treat specific areas of the face, according to Dr Martin Braun who will be presenting a workshop at this year’s Anti-Ageing Conference. Dr Braun believes a holistic approach is required to ensure repeat business. “Botox® is the number one procedure in terms of numbers of patients and total revenue, yet the national retention rate is less than 60% as measured in the top 54 cosmetic practices in Canada,” Dr Braun said. “My clinic has a retention rate exceeding 90% and I personally use over 1,000 bottles of Botox® annually in a busy non-surgical cosmetic practice.” “With more and more cosmetic clinics opening every day it is important to differentiate yourself and your practice. The improvement of patient satisfaction and retention is paramount as it costs 4-10 times as much to attract a new patient to a practice as it does to retain existing clientele.” ㄰ 㤵 㜵

An extensive study by Dr Braun, Canada’s busiest Botox® doctor, found that using appropriate amounts of Botox® in multiple areas of the face results in a high patient retention rate. “By charging a patient by the area treated it becomes exorbitantly expensive to treat multiple sites, even though the sites in the lower face require only small amounts of

Botox®,” he says. “Even if the patient is given a discount on the additional areas, the price is still out of proportion for the amount of Botox® required.” “Abandoning treating Botox® by the area, and providing a patient with pan-facial treatments results in higher satisfaction rates, which translates into repeat visits, and greater patient retention,” Dr Braun said. “Naturally, it will take a few minutes longer to administer several extra injections for the patient.” “Since 75% of Botox® patients purchase other services in cosmetic clinics, spending this extra time with the patient provides an ideal period for patient education, and it should not be viewed as time by a physician who is providing private cosmetic services.” “We are seeing a trend towards the treatment of more than one area, even with the initial Botox® treatment. However, virtually no patients have a pan-facial treatment involving at least five areas on the first visit. Personally, I treat the glabella in order to provide the female patient with a natural-looking brow lift. The frontalis muscle is normally treated at a subsequent visit once the brow has been lifted. Unfortunately new areas of treatment are not being introduced to the retained patient on subsequent visits. The same areas are being treated over and over again without any increase in the number of areas treated. Virtually no pan-facial Botox® treatments were given on repeat visits to the top cosmetic practices in Canada. It is doubtful that this is a reflection of a lack of need. Providing the patient with a ‘wow’ effect appears to correlate with greater patient satisfaction and higher retention,” Dr Braun stresses.

DESIGNER DIETS FOR PERFECT HEALTH Forget fad diets – the perfect diet should be individually prescribed for your optimum health, according to a leading pathology expert. Ms Jennie Burke, who will speak at the 4th Annual 2010 Conference In Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine. Ms Burke believes

diets should be tailored to cater for individual food tolerances and health conditions. Ms Burke will educate delegates on the latest advances in biological testing and prescriptive diets. She stated that the past decade has seen a significant increase in the number of patients presenting with food reactions. Ms Burke believes research shows that approximately 20 per cent of the general population are altering their diet in response to these adverse reactions. But often people experiment with different combinations or eliminate specific foods without knowing what causes the ailments.

Ms Burke further confirmed that advances in biological testing now allow practitioners to scientifically identify which elements are causing the issues and then design a specific diet to your client’s or patient’s needs. “Our daily food intake should be a source of benefit and pleasure rather than fear and unpleasant symptoms. The majority of foods reactions, however, tend to be driven by a delayed immune response following exposure to a particular food. We now have a wealth of studies showing the therapeutic benefits of diets where these reactive foods have been eliminated.” “One of the best examples,” Ms Burke stated, “is for people with Irritable Bowel Syndrome. People with this condition often have a marked improvement once the reactive food is pinpointed and eliminated from their diet.” “Designed diets are also shown to improve symptoms in chronic pain conditions such as fibromyalgia, neurological functions such as migraines, memory, concentration, anxiety and depression, as well as weight control and an improvement in the patient’s overall sense of wellbeing.” ㄰

To view the full two-day Conference Program and to register visit www.a5m.net. For further information phone: 03 0813 0439

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APJ 95

獣楥湴楦楣敷 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨱㤺㌲⁐


BUSINESS NEWS IN BRIEF

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Small Business Superannuation Clearing House

Are you a small business with less than 20 staff? You can now register to use the new Small Business Superannuation Clearing House, which will be fully available through Medicare Australia from 1 July 2010.

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The new service is free, optional and enables you to pay your employees’ superannuation benefits into one location, in a single transaction, after which the Clearing House will distribute the employees' benefit to their nominated financial institution. The service also provides a reporting function that allows you to access records of your contribution history.

Small Business Online Providers Are you a small business? Do you want to know how to get more from your web presence, to help you increase your bottom line? Are you looking to expand your opportunities through an online shop? Or do you know a small business looking for assistance on how to get online, or understand the benefits and potential opportunities by being online? The Small Business Online program has funded 47 service providers across Australia to help you achieve this and more. For further information about the Small Business Online program and to find a service provider in your area please contact the AusIndustry hotline on 13 28 46 or email hotline@ausindustry.gov.au

TAX ALERT FOR RECORD KEEPING New tighter measures means that we are like to hear much more from the tax man in the coming 12 months according to the Institute of Chartered Accountants in Australia, one of the country’s leading professional accounting bodies.

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More sophisticated datacollection mechanisms today mean that a greater volume of reported information is now cross matched between different databases and assessed for any potential irregularities. This is giving the ATO the fuel it needs to ramp up the number of its audits of individuals and companies that are potentially breaching the tax legislation.

The predicted increase in audit activity should be a cause for concern for those small-to-medium-sized businesses that have been a bit loose with their accounting practices. Accounting professionals have confirmed that the ATO is already asking a lot more questions. The tax office seems to have a larger number of more highly trained staff in the field who are better informed and prepared for audit inquiries.

The Small Business Superannuation Clearing House makes superannuation payments simple. It’s fast, free and efficient – letting you get back to what's important to your business. It’s easy. Employers can register online and when it is time to make your superannuation contribution payments, this can be done in one transaction, we will do the rest. It's that simple. For further information on how the Clearing House can help reduce your red tape and compliance costs, or to register online, visit the Medicare Australia website. www.medicareaustralia.gov.au/super

BUSINESS ON THE MOVE According to APAN’s records, during the last quarter, over 700 business have not been able to sustain their rental costs and have moved to new more affordable locations or moved to a home-based business. This warrants an alert to new businesses to examine the terms and conditions of their lease contracts to ensure greater protection against raising leasing costs. Several businesses are moving out of shopping centres where some have experienced increases of up to 80% in their leases. It is important that you incorporate these costs when determining the prices of your services. It is recommended that you review these figures with a competent business coach or your accountant, to ensure that reasonable measure have been taken to meet your financial obligations. If you wish to be directed to a reputable business coach please contact APAN on 07 55930360 or email info@apanetwork.com for recommendations.

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APJ 96

扵獩湥獳敷猠楮⁢物敦 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‷㨴ㄺ㔲⁐


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LOOK AFTER YOUR RECEPTIONIST

Salons and clinics invest in training program for their therapists but often neglect to appreciate the value and need for training and support of their receptionists or front desk person. New figures indicate that this sector of businesses is the most unhappy in terms of job satisfaction and the most likely to hand in their resignations. A recruitment agency, OfficeTeam surveyed over 437 Australian office professionals and confirmed that 64 per cent of respondents, who work in reception positions, are actively seeking or thinking about a new job. There is an assumption that front-end positions are easily filled, and employers do not have to invest in these staff, but this is a costly mistake according to a senior manager of OfficeTeam.

What are the Global Megatrends? Reception staff are the front end of any business and they require a great deal of knowledge and skills in handling people so that they represent the business with the right level of professionalism, courtesy and consumer trust to continue to access the services of that business. Developing someone to engage with such expertise requires systematic training and they are difficult and costly to replace. It is not enough to ensure that your therapists can deliver excellent treatments, if the front desk does not offer strong support to ensure that your clients re-booking and continue to generate revenue for the business through ongoing sales, of both treatments and products.

Our world is changing and it is valuable to take a new view of our future world. That was their intention when the CSIRO released a report identifying five global megatrends and eight megashocks that are changing the world. “Megatrends are collections of interlinked trends that will change the way people live and the science and technology products that they demand,” reports the CSIRO’s Dr James Moody. “Megashocks are harder to predict as they are defined by sudden and significant events, like the Global Economic Crisis and the tsunami in Asia.” The report identified the first megatrend as “more for less”. In a world of increasing demand for depleting natural resources, from minerals to water, coming decades will see a focus on resource-use efficiency and a major global effort on extracting more from less. The second megatrend is “a personal touch”. Growth of the services sector, now representing over 70 per cent of the Australian economy, is being followed by a second wave of innovation aimed at tailoring and targeting services to individual customers. We are seeing this in the aesthetics industry where technologies are grouped to facilitate more tailored and more streamlined treatment options. Customised treatment packages are progressively replacing the stand-alone services that are service menu dictated rather than individualised and customised as part of a more personalised program. The third megatrend is “divergent demographics”, recognising the growing contrast between an ageing populations, experiencing lifestyle and diet-related health problems, and high fertility rates and problems of not enough food for millions in poor countries. Megatrend four notes that more and more of the world’s people are “on the move”, changing jobs, moving house, and travelling more often and commuting further to work, particularly in city regions. The fifth megatrend has been named the “i World”, predicting that everything in the natural world will have a digital counterpart.

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HELP FOR SELF-EMPLOYED BUSINESS WOMEN Australian women who run their own businesses or seek professional and personal development now have access to online mentoring and networking 24/7 with the launch of new web-based services by the Australian Women’s Mentoring Network (AWMN). Catherine Seton, the founder of AWMN says that recent research shows that a combination of mentoring and networking is a robust predictor of both career success and satisfaction, above and beyond either of these activities on their own. “We have launched www.womensmentoring.com.au to provide all women with opportunities both to become a mentor and to receive coaching, while extending our reach beyond cities into rural and regional areas,” says Ms Senton, who founded the network in May 2004. The network is there for women at the time of the day when they can best benefit from it.

APJ 97


Why HEAVENLY CURLS® EYELASH ENHANCER is the superior product for transforming lashes to their FULL POTENTIAL

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No drugs, No parabens, No petroleum products, No propylene glycol – just a gentle hypoallergenic formula that offers results

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With smoky eyes and thick eyelashes being the hot trend, leading cosmetic companies are vying for the title of the best mascara on the market promising thickness and extension to double the length and look of eyelashes. The problem with some of these formulations is that they can actually cause the lash follicles to become blocked, leading to the weakening of the natural lashes, which in itself is counter-productive. Now there is a better solution for longer and more beautiful lashes – strengthen and grow your own lashes to their full potential.

Hovan’s Group, formulators of highly successful innovative products for the prevention of in-grown hair – Bikini Saver, In-Grown Gold MediCream and In-Grown Gold Medi Lotion, has now achieved a new breakthrough with the release of H E AV E N LY C U R L S ® E Y E L A S H ENHANCER. Developed after extensive research Eyelash Enhancer works by strengthening and growing the natural lashes so they no longer need heavy-duty mascaras.

KEY PRODUCT CLAIMS:

! ! ! ! !

Stimulates lash and brow growth at a cellular level Reduces lash and brow loss Removes accumulated debris in follicles Anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties Increase active ingredient penetration to the follicles

SCIENTIFIC VALIDATION OF INGREDIENTS Hexapeptide-11 is a bio-fermented peptide that has been shown in in-vitro genome studies run on human dermal fibroblasts to upregulate key genes responsible for collagen production and important extra-cellular matrix components, such as hyaluronic acid. In a gene micro-array study conducted on human dermal fibroblasts, it was found that topical treatment with hexapeptide 11 was able to up-regulate the Androgen Receptor gene indicating that the peptide is able to bind to the Androgen Receptor much in the same way that testosterone does. This suggests that Hexapeptide11 may be able to influence the principal biochemical pathways responsible for converting young, soft velus lashes and brows into mature terminal hair. In addition, Hexapeptide-11 has also been shown to improve skin elasticity in vivo, suggesting that it can function to improve the skin’s underlying matrix proteins such as collagen and elastin. All of these are important to improve the lash and brow follicle health.

Other ingredients include Sugar Beet Betaine (trimethylglycine), which has been shown in vitro to stimulate the production of collagen in human dermal fibroblasts as well as the production of ATP (Adenosine triphosphate), the energy molecule of every living cell. Fruit extracts isolated from sugar cane, lemon and apple (AHAs) offer a natural exfoliating action to help clear hair follicle from excessive buildup of dead cells, allowing for thicker hair growth. Green tea extract with its isoflavones acts as an antioxidant to protect the skin and hairs

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VISIBLE RESULTS IN 3 MONTHS WITH TWICE-DAILY APPLICATION Apply HEAVENLY CURLS® at least twice a day on the upper and/or lower eyelid on the base of the eyelashes on the skin and/or eyebrow. Within 6-10 weeks you will see a measurable difference, and after 12 weeks, your own lashes and eyebrows can reach their full potential.

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Why try to imitate that you have long lashes when you can have the real thing? ㈵

For further information please contact Hovan’s Group +61 2 9938 2111 Tollfree 1300 88 66 55

email: sales@hovansgroup.com.au www.hovansgroup.com.au

APJ 98

桯癡渠污獨⁥湨慮捥浥湴 卵湤慹Ⱐ㈷⁊畮攠㈰㄰‸㨰㤺㌶⁐


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Ever dream of having fuller longer, thicker eyelashes? Wake up to Heavenly Curls Eyelash Enhancer and

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Back in stock – new formulation, new packaging now with 7.0ml of product! A gentle non-irritating formula that promotes the appearance of longer, fuller, more lustrous lashes & brows.

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For further information or to place an order contact Hovan’s Group +61 2 9938 2111 • tollfree 1300 88 66 55 696 PitTwater Road Brookvale nsw 2100 australia

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Beautiful Skin Professional product formulations for you to maintain radiant, healthy skin

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APJ Vol 5 2010  

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 5 2010 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)

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