i-D: ldnzine!

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ldnzine! ldnzine! ldnzine! ldnzine! ldnzine!

N O 3 7 4 T H E L D N L I F E I S S U E P R EF A L L 2 0 2 4 A N T O N I N A U V I N D U P H O T O G R A P H Y L I L Y M O G G R I D G E
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i-DEAS, FASHION, MUSIC, PEOPLE

THE SOLE OF LONDON

Qayyum 2019 30 Funny Photos Taken At Unusual Angle [photograph]
TICKETMASTER PRESENTS... 5 FOR 4 ON ALL FESTIVAL TICKETS* *T&C S APPLY VALID STUDENT ID MUST BE PRESENTED ON PURCHASE SEE WWW TICKETMASTER CO UK FOR MORE INFO Thomas 2024 Disco Hands [photograph]

PRIDE. UNITY. CULTURE.

TheOnlineReader 2024 Unveiling the Excitement: UEFA Euros 2024 [photograph]
pre-fall 2024 the ldn life issue
Immigrants Pioneering Fashion in London In Conversation with Uvindu Modest is the Move! From the River to the Sea... Travel Through Taste Faces of the Fashion Future Sport Core! Clothes on the Climb West Indies to West LDN What to Wear Acknowledgements 8 22 25 28 29 36 39 42 44 45 50 featuring... “Give us a chance, let us achieve fam!”

i-D: ldnzine! was curated by me to convey my experience growing up as a first-generation Polish immigrant in NW9 Culture, be it my own or the ones I’ve been raised around, holds significance in the London Gen-Z streetwear scene, and it’s time someone recognises and celebrates it

Immigrants Pioneering Fashion in London

The one and the only (for now): ldnzine! Chances for true and raw selfexpression in the creative field are rare so, with the luck that I was given one, I took everything about London that makes me me, and created a 52-page tale on what it means to be an Immigrant Pioneering Fashion in London.

To be an immigrant is not to be a taboo. In my first moments of pitching this magazine, I was sat down and stared at with a plethora of raised eyebrows, widened eyes, and fingers pointing to the word ‘immigrant’. “Could you not change that word?” I was asked but, the truth is, that word is what I am - and what many people who’ve built London up are, fact!

I am an immigrant. What I am not is a job stealer, tax evader, benefit hoarder, and the rest of the stereotypes people love to push on Polish and Eastern European immigrants as a whole. What I am, is a first-generation child of two people who dropped everything the moment April 2004 rolled around and, with Poles having the then-newborn right to settle in the UK, did exactly that. If my parents never saw London as a chance to better their lives - in wealth, health, and general living conditions - I would not exist. If not for everything London brought them (and if not for Northwick Park Hospital), I would not be here to tell their story, and to carry on the legacy.

My mother has always been a woman of many dreams, a creative at heart. Unfortunately, only one of her dreams with moving to London could be achieved, and that was to give me and my sister the world. She left behind the entirety of hers to give us ours, and that is an act of selflessness and motherhood that gives unknown unity to all the immigrant mothers of London.

What unifies us immigrant children in London is our underlying need to overachieve. To always be the best, to do the most, to stand out. We know what our parents have given up to put us where we are; we recognise it, respect it, and reach it From those pursuing medicine, to the lawyers, to the creatives, we do it all with our cultural pride in mind.

Whilst this magazine is to serve as a warm hug to all immigrant Gen-Zers in London, I must express the ties and inspirations of culture-influenced creatives. Musicians, photographers, artists and, above all, my people of fashion - ldnzine is for you.

Growing up on Grahame Park Estate has given me an insight into creativity and culture like nowhere else. Raised around and by West Africans, Caribbeans, South Asians, Arabs, and Eastern Europeans has shaped the way I navigate the creative field as a young adult. This mini-zine honours all of you. It is a big thank you for paving my life to a path of cultural appreciation, for allowing me to experience traditions other than my own. Even if I am categorically and biologically 100% Polish, I am the creative I am because of culture - my own, and others.

So, dive into this 52-page mini-zine, each centrefold curated and position to tell a story of London. ldnzine is what it means to be an immigrant pioneering music, arts, fashion, and life. Don’t ever, ever, let a negative stereotype stop you or try and define you. You are not angry, violent, a threat, the punchline of a half-arsed joke, a job stealer, a place holder, a diversity point... You are the future, you are London.

AntoninaSzarejko

EDITOR’S LETTER
8

What’sthesoundofyourculture?

Everyculturehasasound... ...FindyoursonlyonSpotify ScantheSpotifycodeandlistentotheofficiali-D:ldnzine!playlist.
“Youdon’t needto fitin.”

IN CONVERSATION WITH UVINDU

Uvindu explores the experience of growing up South Asian on the outskirts of London, delving into an excavation of culture and criticism, and the effects his life lessons have had on his modelling journey

“Regardless of where we’re from, we share the identity of being brown.”

Tapping and cracking our fingers in a simultaneous sense of nerves, Uvindu and I sit across from each other in the same small-town café where we first met, revising for what we deemed to be the most important exams of our lives. Now, we exist as two near-adults, the memories of that summer feeling like a lifetime ago, both pursuing dreams we thought would remain just that.

Describe your experience growing up South Asian in 3 words.

“Prejudice. Food. Different”, I jot his spitfire words down in silent understanding. St Albans is a mere few miles north of London, yet such a small physical difference presents such different experiences. We both ponder on the word ‘prejudice’, myself remembering the subtle yet scorching comments made on my Polish upbringing, and years of such sat behind Uvindu’s eyes.

You’ve grown up just on the outskirts of London, have you felt any sense of cultural community here?

“I’m Sri Lankan and Buddhist, so I would say my experience is different to others.” Uvindu begins, “Most of the South Asian people I know are Muslim and I have grown to understand more and more about their religion. There’s always been a sense of community with people of colour. There are people - including me - whose countries and states aren’t political allies but, regardless of where we’re from, we share the identity of being brown.”

Tell me about when you first realised you had potential in fashion modelling.

“I always felt insecure about the way I looked growing up. Not seeing any South Asian men being seen as attractive and in media, such as TV shows growing up. South Asians have been comic relief characters; the cashier in Simpson’s, Baljeet from Phineas and Ferb. So, I thought the best way of gaining this “confidence” was to just do it. To not listen to what anyone else said about the way I looked or whatever. I did it, and it turned out alright. People were starting to say nice things and that I had potential to actually model.”

Have you faced any challenges being a young South Asian in fashion? If not, what have been some highlights?

“I’ve been told that I would be more attractive and therefore a better model if I was white.” We both sigh at the soreness of that comment, but Uvindu swiftly brings comedic relief with, “Highlights of my fashion ’career’... Try getting stuck in London at 1am after going for a late night shoot and both our phones dying. We did manage to get the last train home.”

What’s one meal you’ve grown up with that you’ll never forget?

“Rice and curry. It’s the basic.” I chime in to suggest a change of words to ‘classic’, but basic sticks. “[I’ve] Been made fun of for eating it. It’s great, reminds me of my childhood. When my tastes changed and I realised that I don’t like itbut then I still do. Every time one of my friends try it, they tell me that it’s great and that my mum’s cooking is objectively the best.” Unfortunately, I can’t personally vouch, but I’ve heard tales, and I’m slightly jealous.

What’s one thing someone has told you that you’ll never forget?

“‘I love your colour’. It had come from a girl with blonde hair and blue eyes, that everyone idolised for being attractive, and she told me that she really likes my skin colour and how dark my eyes were.” When I asked whether that’s a positive or negative, Uvindu does not answer. Up for interpretation.

Top 3 music artists?

I ask this question for authenticity, and a reminder that models are human. People seem to forget that and, given by the smile that creeps up on Uvindu’s face, he knows it too. “Knucks, Rihanna, Clairo.”

Do you see yourself pursuing other fashion industries other than streetwear?

“Yeah. With the brand [Cashmade Clothing] we may change our approach in the future, so we may venture into other markets. If I get a bit taller, I will start to slim down and focus on improving my facial features, and then I will apply for a modelling agency.” I recall that being something Uvindu told me when we first expressed our fashion interests to each other, and we both sit in the memory for a minute.

What’s one staple item you take with you when modelling?

“Headphones - I want to visualise the shoot beforehand and, by listening to music, I can always get in the mood and it gives me a lot of confidence.”

If you could give one piece of advice to your younger self, what would it be?

“Keep your head up, you don’t need to fit in.” With that as our closing note, Uvindu and I continue a brief recollection of our memories in this small town. My 5-year experience merely coming here for school does not compare to Uvindu’s whole life being this place but, in that, we understand each other and the struggles that come with finding your identity and place in a sea of red, white, and blue.

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MODEST IS THE MOVE!

In an age where religion is seeing its resurgence in fashion, modest street style looks are being spotted more and more around London From styling the standard abaya to being modestly monochrome, shop the following looks from our favourite Hijabi fashion influencers:

@maryxammx

Base layer:

Zara Polyamide Bodysuit

£17 99

Dress:

Amazon Owl's-Yard

Women Bodycon Sheer

Mesh Dress Summer

Elegant Sleeveless

Backless Ruffle Ruched

Long Dress Y2K Irregular

Hem Midi Dress

£17.62

Jeans:

H&M Baggy Regular

Jeans

£24 99

Bag:

Zara Oval Shoulder Bag

£22 99

Earrings:

Claire’s Silver-tone Wide

20MM Hoop Earrings

£8 00

Sunglasses: Amazon JBINNG Men

Women Retro Small Frame Sunglasses

Trendy Rectangular

Sunglasses (Black)

£10 98

Trench Coat: Pull&Bear Long felt texture coat with belt

£49 99

Bodysuit: Zara Polyamide Bodysuit

£17 99

Trousers: Bershka Wide-leg tailoring trousers

£25.99

@sarjehe 25

@maryamwardaa

MODEST IS THE MOVE!

Hoodie:

Ego Oversized Ego

Graphic Slogan Print Hoodie in Beige

£34.00

Joggers: Ego Raw Hem Detail Wide Leg Joggers in Taupe

£19 00

Trench Coat: Weekday Zenni Oversized Trench

£129.00

Shoes:

Miss Diva Sigrid

Embroidered Faux Fur

Lining Slippers in Camel

£29 99

Bag: Pull&Bear Urban crossbody bag

£12.99

Sunglasses: PrettyLittleThing Gold

Frame Black Lens Small

Square Sunglasses

£8 00

Abaya: Sumayah Beige Amani

Sparkle Abaya

£45.00

Belt: PrettyLittleThing Brown

Vintage Shield Disc

Waist Belt

£23 00

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@seerathuss

CEASEFIRE NOW CEASEFIRE NOW

NOW CEASEFIRE NOW CEASEFIRE NOW CEASEFIRE NOW CEASEFIRE NOW CEASEFIRE NOW CEASEFIRE NOW CEASEFIRE NOW CEASEFIRE NOW
CEASEFIRE

FROM THE RIVER TO THE SEA...

For some, thoughts of the conflict between Israel and Palestine only began on the 7th of October, 2023 For others, however, the war has been all they have ever known A separation of Hamas and the IDF, let’s call it what it is Genocide

“I think that Apple should create a feature called bomb detection —but the people who could help us do not live in Gaza.”
MOSAB ABU TOHA

Unlike others, I’m fortunate enough to be writing this column from a warless, recognised state - the United Kingdom, to get into specifics. The same United Kingdom that funds £42 million (Brooke-Holland 2024) worth of arms exports straight to Israel and the IDF, the cold blooded killers with stains of Gaza on their skin.

The common argument for IDF funding is that Israel ‘needs to fight back’ - but against what? All controversies aside for now, Hamas was initially created to fight back against the IDF. When the war between the two states commenced in 1948, Palestine had little to no military defence - hence the creation of Hamas in the late 1980s. Labelled as an ‘Islamic Terrorist Group’ by the US and EU governments, as a result of the October 7th bomb and rockets attacks, arguably there is no difference between Hamas and the IDF. Ultimately, what it comes down to is the death toll, and who’s opposed to a ceasefire.

It can be argued that both sides have extremist views. Hamas strongly rejects the existence of Israel as a state, as historically Palestine occupied the land prior to the sheer existence of Israel state. The IDF believes the opposite. They believe the state of Israel has a right of occupation to the Gaza strip, following the 1967 Middle East war, after which they have continued an on-and-off spree of militant occupation, with constant controlling over Gaza’s water supply, airspace, and borders.

As a result of Israel and IDF troops having control over Gaza’s borders, they have been given the power to restrict aid relief and the import of goods needed for Palestinian survival, placing Palestine in a state of socio-economic confinement. Whilst these restrictions were on-going, the Southern half of the Gaza strip was proclaimed by Israel to be the safe evacuation space for Palestinians, all the while airstrikes and military attack was continuing on Northern Gaza, with the intent of ‘fighting Hamas terrorism’.

In reality, there is no ‘safe space’ in Gaza. Everything is under attack. The war did not start on October 7th. It is not a war. It is genocide.

The media portrays the conflict as ‘Israel vs. Hamas’, but Hamas only rose into prominent power in 2005, following Israel’s withdrawal from Palestine. The truth is, conflict has been in the air between Israel and Palestine since 1948 - and it is not a war between two states. It is the simple act of genocide: “the intent to destroy, in whole or in part, a national, ethnical, racial or religious group, as such.” (Segal 2023)

Israel’s aim is not to reclaim the land that is ‘theirs’. It is to wipe all Gazans from the strip, displacing, or worse, killing them until that aim is achieved and, even according to Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, what we have witnessed is only the beginning.

Now, nationalist support for the two sides involved has been varying. The general Palestinian consensus is not in favour of Hamas as a general organisation, but they recognise a sense of desperation for a chance at an equal fight against Israeli forces, and Hamas’ military strengths seem like the only plausible option. It’s the last straw. On the other hand, Israeli favouring for the IDF and their genocidal actions have been apparent - hence the creation of the term ‘zionism’. In summary, Israel’s power of media indoctrination has left their people with no sympathy for those of Gaza.

What Israel hold against Hamas as a reasoning for no end to this conflict, is that the hostages in Hamas captivity are yet to be released. It’s a back-and-forth battle of one side pleading ceasefire, and the other holding 130 lives against them. “Hamas had offered... to release all the civilian hostages in exchange for the IDF not entering the Strip, but the government rejected the offer.” (LetsTalkPalestine 2024). 36,000 dead. 81,400 wounded. 10,000 and counting under rubble. A textbook genocide. A need for ceasefire.

For donation information and further resources, please see https://linktree/opolivebranch Palestine will be free

28

TRAVEL THROUGH TASTE

Exploring the cultural mix pot of London cannot be done without diving into the city’s culinary scene. With the country’s national dish being of Indian origin, it would be a failure to not uncover the cuisines hidden in the capital Street vendors, family restaurants, and Michelin restaurants galore, London is the place to be for a journey of flavours

CHUKU’S 1.

“The world’s first Nigerian tapas restaurant’ is run by the brother and sister team of Emeka and Ifeyinwa, giving a London brunch twist to traditional Nigerian cuisine. Their weekend brunch creations of Jollof Quinoa and Plantain Waffles are famed by all, including Beyoncé who gave the restaurant a portion of her BeyGood Foundation grant. A must-taste Nigerian food experience.

Price: ££

274 High Rd, London N15 4AJ Tottenham

www.chukuslondon.co.uk

2. BABUJI

Babuji Kentish Town was started by and lives on in the honour of Babuji, a foodie whose favourite places to eat were, “the cafés and street stalls, no need to go anywhere fancy”. Babuji holds inspiration from South Asian street food, offering a range of small plates and bite-sized dishes, to more traditional Pakistani home dishes. “By the way, we eat with our hands, cos that’s the Babuji way.”

Price: £

343 Kentish Town Rd, London NW5 2TJ Kentish Town

www.babuji.co.uk

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3. HIBA TABOUN

Hiba Taboun brings the heart of Middle Eastern food to Walthamstow. Palestinian-family owned, the café has a focus on tradition, serving classic Palestinian lunch dishes, all created with imported ingredients to maximise the true flavours of the Middle East. It holds the bar high in East London, surrounded by a beloved Middle Eastern community, and yet stands out as one of the most unmissable dining experiences.

Price: £

2 Golden Parade, London E17 3HU Walthamstow

@hiba_taboun (Instagram)

4. MIKRUS BAR & RESTAURANT

Homely and nostalgic, Mikrus offers a traditional Polish dining experience. Facilitated with restaurant and bar seating, the chefs bring the essence of home dining straight from the kitchen to the table. Meals are all kept authentic, including Golaka, Kotlet Schabowy, and the cult-classic Pierogi. For those looking for family in food, Mikrus has it all.

Price: ££

264 Streatham High Road, London SW16 1HS Streatham

www.facebook.com/mikrusstreatham

5. REGGAE SPICE

A personal recommendation of mine, Reggae Spice is an unmistakably renowned Jamaican takeaway right in the centre of Burnt Oak. The 4-star review speaks for itself; it’s the best taste of the Caribbean with unforgettable customer service. The food offers everything you could want from this cuisine, from Curry Goat, Rice and Peas, to unbeatable Jerk Chicken.

Price: ££

3 Silkstream Parade London HA8 0EJ Burnt Oak

www.reggaespice.co.uk

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MELANIE PHOTOGRAPHY ANTONINA SZAREJKO

FACES OF THE FASHION FUTURE

The self-proclaimed ‘Home of Fashion’s Next Generation’, Fashion Retail Academy has birthed a large majority of the fashion industry Students come nation-wide to receive the best nurturing path into fashion, and here are testimonies from some of fashion future’s faces

Faces of the Fashion Future

“There is no one here like me” was my first thought when joining the Fashion Retail Academy. I sat listening to the register, taking in a repetition of Emilys, Izzys, and Ellies. “Are these people going to pronounce my name right? Will they care to?” I spiralled in remembrance of my past prejudice, fearing that, in a new environment, it would only be worse It wasn’t. Your seat in the subject of diversity is only as significant as you make it. It doesn’t matter if you’re the only seat, or if you think you are, it matters what noise you make. And, in the fashion industry, noise matters.

Introducing the Interviewees:

Isabella, 18, Italian, Level 3 Fashion Retail Millen, 17, British/ Turkish, Level 3 Fashion Retail Grace, 19, Nigerian/ Black British, Level 3 Fashion Retail

If you weren’t pursuing fashion, where would you see yourself?

“Doing something that changes society/ the world positively.” - Grace

What’s the biggest inspiration for your work?

“Currently, it’s a mix between religion and medieval armour.” - Isabella “Culture, history, and tradition.” - Millen

“I am inspired by the positive work that people who look like me have brought to the world, as it motivates me to do the same.” - Grace

How has your culture and upbringing affected your way of working?

“Coming from a very traditional and religious family, I have always worked very hard and tried to go above and beyond.” - Isabella

“None of my direct family members have higher education or degrees due to certain life events. This has encouraged me to work hard and achieve this for myself.” - Millen

“Although I have an experience of being British, I feel like my Black culture and Nigerian background has affected my way of working, as I am able to bring a different perspective on certain topics and viewpoints to the Western World.”Grace

One thing you wouldn’t be the same without?

“My family.” - Grace

Your biggest achievement thus far working in fashion?

“Working as a stylist for a dominatrix.” - Isabella

Have you grown up surrounded by other cultures? If so, which impacted you the most?

“British culture and Italian culture - predominantly Italian, due to having a Italian family.” - Isabella

“I have grown up around British culture and Turkish culture. I would say British culture has impacted me the most, as I was born in London and live with my mum who is British.” - Millen

“Yes, I have grown up being surrounded by many cultures. I have mostly been impacted by my Black British culture as I feel like I can relate and identify most with it.” - Grace

What’s the earliest memory of your love for fashion?

“My earliest memory relating to my love for fashion was when I first went shopping with my aunt and purchased my own item of clothing.” - Millen

Where do you see yourself in 5 years time?

“Finishing my degree and working freelance.” - Isabella

“I see myself graduated with a degree and working full time.” - Millen

“Building my career.” - Grace

Name one person who inspires you/ your work:

“Ava Francis.” - Isabella

“Donatella Versace.” - Millen

What’s something you want to achieve that’s never been done before?

“Female armoury.” - Isabella

“I want to help the society by doing something that will have a permanent positive impact.” - Grace

Have you ever felt unfair treatment in the fashion industry? What did you feel was the cause?

“Older women feeling jealous of younger girls, therefore picking on them.”Isabella

“I haven't personally, but I have seen others complain about nepotism within the industry. I have also noticed there is unfair treatment around diversity and inclusivity, which I make sure to think about when creating my concepts for my projects.” - Millen

“Not from personal experience, but I have heard about mistreatment of Black models within the fashion industry.” - Grace

If you could bring one fashion icon back from the dead, who would you choose?

“Elizabeth the 1st.” - Isabella

“Audrey Hepburn.” - Millen

“Grace Jones.” - Grace

As can be seen, each experience and answer is different. The fashion industry is only so much as what you make of it, and your experience of culture is only as positive as you let it be. Everything is up to interpretation and, with the right headspace, anyone can be a Face of the Fashion Future.

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Home of Fashion's Next Generation

SPORT CORE!

With summer comes tennis season, football and beer gardens, and sportswear fashion 2024 in particular has been the year of Sport Core, boosted in popularity by the Euros and Luca Guadagnino’s ‘Challengers’ starring Zendaya - who’s brought sport elements to the high fashion scene Let’s delve into the elements of the rising aesthetic, and how to incorporate them into street style:

Blokecore!

Vaulted into resurgence by British Y2K and the impact of WAG culture, Blokecore takes a streetwear-spin on football and soccer pieces The aesthetic is reinforced by cultural representation, especially with the hype surrounding the 2024 Euros Get a grip on the trend just in time for the beer gardens!

Football Kits

The most on-the-nose way to achieve this aesthetic Found bulked in charity shops, don’t forget to check the children’s section for a baby tee fit!

Racer Glasses

A key look of the classic ‘Bloke’ Whether you’re a Steve or Stanislaw, finish off your pub geezer outfit with a pair of wrap-around sunnies

Tennis Chic!

A sub-form of quiet luxury and old money style, Tennis Chic is so in Popularised in media through ‘Saltburn’ and ‘Challengers’, and in high fashion through Miu Miu, it seems like everyone wants to be the new Serena and Venus - well, here’s how!

Polo Shirts

A key sign of off-court tennis style Cropped or fulllength, mens, womens, or even kids - any fit makes it a fit!

Tennis Skorts

If the on-court look is more for you, skorts are the way to go Stylish, comfortable, and must be Slazenger!

Trainers

From Adidas to Asics, New Balance to Nike, trainers are the best way to add a Sport Core flair to the streets of London. Key colours: white and navy.

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STARS OF THE SOUTH

Be it raised in football academies, tennis clubs, or on running tracks, there’s one thing these sports stars all have in common - a cultural London background Whether your interest in Sport Core is surface level or rooted deeper, here are 5 stars to be on the lookout for:

Anthony Joshua

Age: 34, 15th October 1989

Sport: Boxing

Cultural Background: Nigerian, Irish

Raised in: Watford, Greater London

Greatest Achievement: Two-time World Heavyweight Champion

Emma Raducanu

Age: 21, 13th November 2002

Sport: Tennis

Cultural Background: Romanian, Chinese

Raised in: Bromley, London

Greatest Achievement: Winning the US Open

Matty Cash

Age: 26, 7th August 1997

Sport: Football

Cultural Background: British, Polish

Raised in: Slough, Greater London

Greatest Achievement: Representing Poland in the 2022 World Cup

Bukayo Saka

Age: 22, 5th September 2001

Sport: Football

Cultural Background: Nigerian

Raised in: Ealing, West London

Greatest Achievement: England’s Mens Player of the Year 2022-23

Dina Asher-Smith

Age: 28, 4th December 1995

Sport: Athletics

Cultural Background: Jamaican, Trinidadian

Raised in: Orpington, London

Greatest Achievement: The fastest British woman on record

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@cashmadec othinguk 2024 [photograph]

When it comes to streetwear, Corteiz, Cole Buxton, and other name brands commonly come to light What about those hidden in the shadows? Starting as a mere idea in a bedroom to evolving into recognition, this is the spotlight for a favoured small brand of mine

“Inspired by the fear of being average.”

What comes with coming of age in a small, tight-knit community is the power of word-of-mouth. This is exactly how the brand Cashmade Clothing came into my eye view. No matter how mainstream fashion appears to be, it will always be rare to experience it in the flesh, especially so close to you. That does come with its benefits - and letdowns unfortunately - but, without community, this brand would not be where it is today.

Cashmade Clothing is a streetwear-focused brand that launched its success off Instagram and TikTok. Originally inspired by the style of American skaters and the youth culture of Atlanta, their designs have evolved from puff-print logos to creative own-designs, now more focused on the appeal to London streetwear. I’ve watched this brand timeline from when it first came to its rise in Summer 2023 to now, where they amass a total of 4k Instagram followers - which may not seem like much, but their loyal customer base is apparent.

My personal interest in this brand was furthered by my close relationship with one of their models Uvindu, who’s given me an insight into the roots and development behind the scenes, the process full of commitment and resilience that, again, I wouldn’t know without word-of-mouth. When it comes to fashion in this day and age, the recipe for success is connections, Central St. Martin’s, and the curse of nepotism. Many think building a brand cannot exist without these (obviously it is much easier, don’t get me wrong), but that’s false. Community is most important, and being birthed within a small Hertfordshire community has definitely worked in Cashmade’s favour.

Cashmade Clothing is a South Asian owned small brand. Although Hertfordshire in itself is already a word-travels-fast area, there is a sense of support here between cultures that falls into its own community subcategory. Considering the close geographic proximity to London, it would be easy to assume that Hertfordshire is as culturally mixed as the capital; that’s not the case. This doesn’t exactly have to be viewed as a negative, because the support between cultures is stronger in this smaller quantity and, again, boosts the power of spoken support.

With most of their models being South Asian or Arab, even if the brand and clothing itself aren’t exactly rooted in cultural expression, their perception catches the appeal of Brown culture in Hertfordshire. It’s a secret whisper of unity - seeing the Cashmade logo draped on someone’s back is the loudest form of silent support. It’s not a case of clipping culture onto their t-shirts like a cartoon ‘Kick Me’ sign, it’s a case of recognition.

Through this, and back to the intimacy of culture in Hertfordshire, anyone with the slightest cultural background has grown a sense of pride for this brandmyself included. Being able to see a brand from start to prime is an unmissable fashion experience, and has strengthened the adoration I have for Cashmade. Their designs keep on developing with each drop, following the same secretlaunch style that helped Corteiz rise to fame, building their customer loyalty by the day. Name brands obviously have their success for valid reasons, and believably went through their struggles too, but support matters more at a smaller scale.

CLOTHES ON THE CLIMB
42

WINDRUSH NOT A TUBE LINE.

TRUE LIFE.

WEST INDIES TO WEST LDN

1948, the year in which the HMT Empire Windrush arrived at Tilbury Docks, Essex An invitation of hope, vibrance, and culture into the UK, it seemed that the Commonwealth ties had finally looped the people of the Caribbean and London together Unveiling influence and scandal alike: the Windrush generation

“London is the Place for Me.”

What exactly is ‘Windrush’?

Facing post-war poverty and destruction, the UK invited their Commonwealth allies from the Caribbean onto the HMT Empire Windrush, aiming to rebuild the country to what it was pre-war but, without the resources to do it themselves, they relied on those who served in the British Armed Forces in WWII. This led Windrush to becoming one of the UK’s most recognised examples of massmigration, starting with roughly 1,000 people on-board Windrush, and many ships from the Caribbean following until 1971, where 500,000 Commonwealth citizens were totalled to have migrated to Britain. The 1948 British Nationality Act granted rights to those living in Commonwealth colonies of work and living in Britain and, with many countries struggling socially and economic, people from the West Indies began migrating to the UK for hopes of a better future.

The social effects of Windrush:

The UK entered a state of economic poverty after the War. Due to effects of the Blitz on London and the general impact of long-term conflict, job vacanciesespecially in manual work - were rife. There were simply not enough Britons to fill labour shortages, hence the invitation given to the Windrush generation. Many migrants of this time quickly entered job fields of manual work, helping rebuild the city of London after the Blitz bombings. Others took up jobs as drivers, cleaners, and particularly nurses, with the National Health Service being freshly formed and in high demand.

Although, under the umbrella of British unawareness, Windrush was meant to seen as entirely positive for all parties, the rejection and prejudice the generation faced was not thought through - reaching a point where unequal treatment is felt to this day. Under a legal agreement, the Windrush generation had equal rights to British settlement, yet continued to be turned away from society, as 11 members of Parliament wrote to complain about “coloured” immigration, and many Afro-Caribbean Londoners were rejected from employment, housing, and even social settings.

The cultural effects of Windrush:

All the social rejection aside, nothing stopped the Caribbeans from bringing indisputable cultural rebirth to Britain. This was, and remains, most prominent in West London - Notting Hill and Ladbroke Grove for specifics. Starting in 1958, as a response to the Teddy Boys’ attacks on Black men in West London, the first ever Caribbean Carnival was held in the streets of Notting Hill, with the aim to improve relations between races. Not only did it achieve that in the moment, but it became one of the most famed annual displays of culture in London, with Notting Hill Carnival being the city’s biggest celebration of the West Indies. ‘Carni’ - as it’s commonly referred to - is attended by thousands each year; teens and adults, of Caribbean descent and of not. It’s an event that ultimately celebrates unity and identity, and would not have existed without the Windrush generation.

Another impact of Caribbean immigration to Britain has been youth culture, strongly amidst Gen-Z. Patois is being sprinkled into daily vernacular, with ‘wagwan’ and ‘bomboclaat’ exiting the mouths of teens with various cultural backgrounds. This comes from the impact of Caribbeans on the music scene in London, classic Reggae, Bashment, and Dancehall influences being heard constantly both in mainstream and underground music. Without a doubt, the cultural impact of Caribbeans on London has been strong and cannot be erased.

The Windrush scandal:

When the 1971 Immigration Act came into effect, Commonwealth citizens had indefinite rights to remain and live in the UK. However, it came out in 2018 that no records of official Commonwealth citizens were kept, so many were wrongfully deported or denied housing and healthcare. Without the Windrush generation, the country would not exist and thrive to the scale it does now, and the careless treatment of those who built Britain was seen then, and even now.

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WHAT TO WEAR

This summer, a plethora of events will be happening, all of which are a pivotal display of cultural fashion If you’re in doubt of what to wear, when or where, look no further Eid, Euros, Carni, and Wireless - we’ve got you covered!

Eid

This year, pastels seem to be all the rage for Eid Abayas are silk with butterfly-style wings, with features such as sparkles and bows to elevate it from the traditional ‘auntie’ look. Hijabi or not, abayas are a classic piece of Eid outfits Decorate with jewellery and a statement bag

Abaya:

Mink Attire Premium Crystal Silk Oversized Abaya

Dress

£39 99

Bracelets:

Euros’24

How to be the most outstanding, eye-catching couple in the beer garden: rep your country on your back via an oversized jersey (matching or not), denim is your friend, and ornaments of Nike colourblock trainers and racer glasses Girls, wear a 2000s mini bag on your arm. Guys, wear your girl!

Sunglasses:

Reclaimed Vintage futuristic wrap sunglasses in black

£15 99

Jersey:

Nike Brazil 2024 Home Shirt

£85.00

Denim:

Bershka Baggy carpenter jeans

£35 99

ASOS Design bangle bracelets with multi fine wire design in silver tone

£8 00

Earrings:

UO Silence + Noise XL Tapered Hoop Earrings

£14 00

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WHAT TO WEAR

Carni

Be prepared for the Corteiz Carni takeover!

This jersey has everything you need to rep the West Indies, including traditional prints and Carni key colours Pair with CRTZ print sweatshorts, comfortable footwear, and your beverage of choice in hand (rum punch is preferred)

Jersey:

Corteiz Carni Stellations Football Jersey 'Yellow'

£128 00

Shorts:

Corteiz Crtz Nylon Shorts

£73 00

Shoes:

Onitsuka Tiger MEXICO 66

£130 00

Wireless

This one is for the guys - bucket hats are not a festival must! Comfort is the forefront, with weather appropriate sleeveless tanks and breezy cargos (can be subbed for shorts) Keep it all black with peaks of silver jewellery and hardware Don’t be afraid of platforms, think of the better stage view!

Tank:

Cernucci Muscle Fit Ribbed Vest - Black

£24 99

Cargos:

Jaded London Black Parachute Cargo Pants

£65 00

Shoes:

Dr Martens Jadon Smooth Leather Platform Boots

£200.00

Belt:

ASOS DESIGN belt in faux leather with studs in black

£17 00

46
RNI NO
WI TH no MAGGIE MAGGIE MAGGIE DRINKRESPONSIBLY. bedrinkaware.co.uk WI TH no WI TH no Hall 2017 Notting Hill carnival – sensational street photography [photograph]
NO CA RNI NO CA
CA RNI

One man’s loss is another man’s treasure.

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ONLY WITH RYANAIR.

This magazine would not exist without the known and unknown input of many creatives

Although the knowledge and wording published is entirely my own, it would not exist without the contribution of others

“I’m

most at home in the places I ain’t supposed to be.”

Dave

Thank you to all the past, present, and future editors at i-D Magazine, for inspiring me and giving me the opportunity to create something never done before. Thank you to Edward Enninful, for launching my passion in Fashion Editing and Communications, and for showing me that commitment and resilience pays off.

Thank you to all those brave enough to speak up and write about Immigrant culture in London, for giving a voice to those too afraid or unable to have one. Thank you to Jorja Smith, Dave, and all the music artists that use art to express the beauty of culture and the experience of London youth. Thank you to the aspiring and established photographers that make it their aim to show the soul of London in their work: @ramiyahkofii, @chaseorisa, @bakar2b.

Thank you to everyone continuing to fight for the freedom of Gaza, be it from Palestine or abroad, your voices matter. Thank you to Mosab Abu Toha, for bravely sharing your story on living through conflict. Thank you Raz Segal for using your education to spread awareness on the Gaza genocide. Thank you to all those at Operation Olive Branch - the achievements in fundraising you have made are life changing. Thank you to all those who have donated to Palestine and used their privilege for the greater good of Gaza.

Thank you to all those aboard the HMT Empire Windrush, who came to this country and brought change that no one else could. Thank you to the entirety of the Windrush generation and their lineage, for continuing the Caribbean influence on London and for birthing many cultural impacts. London would not be the same without you all.

Thank you to all social media personalities using their platform to showcase and modernise modest fashion: @maryxam.mx, @sarjeh.e, @maryam.wardaa, @seerathuss_. Thank you to the London sports stars who have shown potential to the younger generation to achieve their dreams: Anthony Joshua, Matty Cash, Emma Raducanu, Dina Asher-Smith, and Bukayo Saka, and all others not mentioned. Thank you to the teams at Chuku’s, Babuji, Hiba Taboun, Mikrus, and Reggae Spice, for your dedication to bringing the tastes of your cultures to the people of London.

Thank you to Cashmade Clothing for your resilience as a small streetwear business, for bringing culture together in Hertfordshire through your brand community. Thank you to Uvindu, for being my first-hand example of South Asian success in fashion, and for your willingness to participate in my editorial shoot and interview - you’re treasured dearly. Thank you to Lily Moggridge, for repaying the many times I’ve modelled for you and helping out with my shoot, and for being this magazine’s biggest supporter. Thank you to Grace, Isabella, and Millen for being my faces of the fashion future and for sharing your stories with me; all the best to each of you. Thank you to Melanie, for taking the time to model for me and for helping me share our Polish cultural experience.

Thank you to my mother and father for sacrificing everything in Poland for the chance to bring me better opportunities for the future in London. Thank you for dropping your dreams so that I could achieve mine. Thank you to my sister, for introducing me to fashion and being my prime example of it throughout my adolescence. Thank you to the Polish community in London and elsewhere, for guiding me to comfort in my identity. Thank you to all the cultures that have raised me, educated me, and made me evolve. Lastly, thank you to the city of London. NW9 always.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
50
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