Dog grooming @ anrich equiptment talk

Scissors and Blades ANRICH TRAINING SCHOOL &

Tru Sharpe Mobile scissor & clipper blade Sharpening service

SCISSORS 2 types

BEVEL EDGE SCISSOR •

This scissor has a visible flat plane that slopes to the edge without rotation, it is usually sharpened at an angle of 25 degrees or less depending on the condition of the scissor.

•

Typical bevel edge scissor used by groomers is a Roseline and Fisher.

•

Oldest blade design from Germany but now copied throughout the world.

•

Most bevel edge scissors have a micro serration on one blade while the other blade has a sharp cutting edge.

•

The micro serration blade grips the hair while the thumb blade cuts the hair. Try it!

•

The inside of the blade is flat.

•

This type of scissor can be made from Stainless steel or a Stainless and Alloy mix

CONVEX EDGE SCISSOR • •

State of the art, smoother cutting blade. An ideal finishing scissor

•

Due to the sharpness and smoothness of this type of scissor it is less strenuous on the hands and wrists the inside of the blade is hollow ground.

•

This scissor has a smooth curve right to the edge. However it is not as hard wearing as a serrated scissor and will blunt quicker than a serrated scissor

•

Due to the very sharp convex edge this type of scissor requires specialised sharpening

•

The inside of this scissor has a distinct “ride line” as well as being hollow ground.

This is your more expensive scissor such as Geib Buttercut, but worth it. Expect to pay £70 upwards to £300 for a decent quality Convex.

SCISSOR HANDLE •

The handle design will be a personal choice and will determine how long you are able to cut hair before getting cutting fatigue.

•

Straight or Even handles are the traditional design.

•

Straight or Even handles with an ergonomic design (camel humps) give a more comfortable feel and be more harmonious with your hands.

•

Offset handles where one side is longer making the top finger hole offset giving a more comfortable arm position.

•

Fixed or permanent finger rest for better control and comfort.

SCISSOR METALS •

The steel quality determines how long scissors will last.

•

More expensive scissors will usually have “cobalt” a popular alloy in quality scissors.

•

Japanese steel is the best quality steel, very few scissors are marked with the steel quality.

•

My advice is to find a scissor you are comfortable with, that fits your hand and is the right length and weight that you are comfortable with.

•

If you can visit some championship dog shows where you can hold the scissor in your hand and feel if it is right for you.

•

Triple Tempered 440 Stainless Steel is the highest level of durability

TRUST YOUR SUPPLIER

SCISSOR PARTS •

Bumpers - between the handles at the point where they touch, a small rubber or plastic shock absorber

•

Adjustable screw – or thumb nut screw, can be adjusted easily without tools, has a spring plate, thumb nut and centre pin.

•

Regular or flat screw – can be adjusted with a regular screwdriver.

•

Washer – A small plastic, Teflon or metal ring found under the screw head of most screws.

•

Balance - the final adjustments of the scissors . The balance provides the spring pressure that causes the blades to stay touching during the cutting action. Too much pressure and the blades cut into one another or are very tight, too little balance and the hair folds between the blades

SCISSOR MANTEINANCE •

Groomers should clean and oil there scissors every day

•

Wipe the blades clean from the outside of the blade, clean around the pivot point with a brush, oil around the pivot point and the screw.

•

Check your scissor for nicks by slowly closing the blades, and you will feel the nick.

•

If your scissor develops a nick, it needs sharpening under normal usage this will be every 4/5 months

•

Regularly balance your scissor, as a slack scissor damages the ride line and the cutting edge.

•

To balance your scissor, hold the scissor by the finger end in both hands, with the blades pointing upwards, lift one blade half way up and loose it, the blade should stop just before the tips meet. Adjust till you have this action.

•

Don’t tighten your scissor to make it cut, you will damage the blades.

SCISSOR SHARPENING 2 types • •

2.1 The scissor man in the van grinding your scissor away (shortening its life) 2.2 The flat hone Scimech Scissor machine

CLIPPERS • • • • •

The clipper is an essential part of your equipment.

You will need two, one as a back up should the other one stop working.

The head area should be cleaned daily to remove excess hair.

The drive tip on the clipper should be checked and changed at least twice a year depending on the type of clipper.

Your clipper should be serviced once a year, or if you feel it is slowing down with a loss of power.

BLADE DRIVE THIS CAN MAKE YOU THINK THAT YOUR BLADES NEED SHARPENING

TARNISHED BLADES WHEN YOU DON´T CLEAN THE BLADE

CLIPPER BLADES •

Daily maintenance is essential.

•

Never overheat a blade, it causes tarnishing which impairs the cutting edge of the blade.

“Running your clipper on two speed will overheat your blades”

•

If you use a Cooling spray always oil the blades before use. Cooling spray removes the oil from your blade.

•

Inspect and clean your blades daily, checking the nylon runner, socket and spring.

•

Oil your blades as in 3 in the diagram moving the cutter across to oil both sides

TIPS ON WHEN TO CLEAN AND RE OIL A BLADE...

•

When blade performance is not normal, you have to force it through the hair

•

If the clipper seems to be slowing down.

•

Blades seem to be getting hot quicker than normal.

•

If an animal you just did was dirtier than normal. You may have to even clean it during the groom.

•

You can’t hurt a blade by keeping it clean and oiled.

• •

If you want to keep repair and sharpening cost down, then clean and oil your blades.

“EVERY DAY”

CLIPPER BLADE SHARPENING • •

Remember that all snap on blades are hollow ground. Do not attempt to sharpen a blade with a flat hone.

This means both the top and bottom blade have an arch to them

•

This arch enables the teeth of the blades to cut like a scissor would by slicing through the hair not chopping or ripping it apart

•

When you feel you are forcing the blade through the hair or it is snagging, clean and oil the blade check your drive tip if it persists it needs sharpening.

•

Blades will normally require sharpening about every 4/5 months for a busy groomer

WHY???

Thank You • I hope this has been useful and informative.

• Many thanks for listening.

• James - Tru Sharpe Technician