Dominica Traveller volume 3

Dominica Traveller CULTURE | NATURE | JOURNEY volume three

ISLAND BOUYON SIXTH FORM SISSEROU SINGERS THE TRADITION OF RUM BACK TO THE WILD THE NIGHT HUNTERS TAKE ME TO THE RIVER ONE BREATH NO TANK SUSTAINABLE JOURNEYS A WALK TO THE SEA

Bradt Island Guides Just some of the destinations in our range...

4

For 25% discount on over 200 travel guides visit bradtguides.com/shop and enter the code DOMTRAVEL at the checkout Offer valid until 31 December 2018 Also available from bookshops or Amazon.com

bradtguides.com/shop www.dominicatraveller.com BradtTravelGuides

@BradtGuides

@bradtguides

bradtguides

WE TRAVEL NOT TO ESCAPE LIFE BUT FOR LIFE NOT TO ESCAPE US Dear reader, Welcome to the third volume of Dominica Traveller.

Nine feature stories on the themes of culture, nature and journey take us into Dominica’s wilderness where we bathe and pause for breath in thick forest and abyssal ocean, we wade through enigmatic rivers, we seek out and study nocturnal creatures, and we meet fellow travellers with fascinating tales of their own. In true Caribbean spirit, we also make time for some dance, some music and, of course, a little bit of rum.

When planning each volume of Dominica Traveller, my ambition is to showcase this island by illustrating the breadth of its natural and cultural heritage. From Amerindian artefacts, to contemporary dance music, to endemic bats thriving in wetlands and forest, this little country has plenty of big stories to tell.

Whether you have travelled to Dominica from near or far, or if you are lucky enough to call the nature island your home, I hope you enjoy reading it.

Paul Crask

Editor and publisher Email: paulcrask@gmail.com | FB: dominicatraveller | Twitter: @paulcrask INSTAGRAM: DOMINICA.TRAVELLER | www.dominicatraveller.com Dominica Traveller is printed in the UK on Edixion Challenger Offset, FSC certified paper.

Print copies are free of charge in Dominica and are available for purchase worldwide from Newsstand UK (see the link on www.dominicatraveller.com).

Published in October 2017. Text and photographs are protected by copyright. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior consent of the publisher. Views and opinions expressed by contributing authors and advertisers may not reflect those of the editor/publisher. Every reasonable effort has been made to ensure that information published is accurate and credible.

On the cover: Michele Henderson by Marica Honychurch.

5

CONTENTS IN BRIEF 8 YOUNG JOURNALISTS

Stories from two secondary school students

13 ARCHAEOLOGICAL HERITAGE

Returning to solve the riddle of Amerindian artefacts

14 CORAL BLEACHING EVENTS

The impact of climate change on our reefs

CULTURE 22 ISLAND BOUYON

Dominica’s contemporary music scene

22

Words by Timothy Rommen | Photographs by Marica Honychurch

32 SIXTH FORM SISSEROU SINGERS A project of endless possibilities

Words by Leandra Lander | Photographs by Paul Crask

40 THE TRADITION OF RUM

An intoxicating taste of the Caribbean

Words and photographs by Marica Honychurch

6

NATURE 52 BACK TO THE WILD

Rewilding, forest bathing, reconnecting with nature

Words by Paul Crask and Terri Henry | Photographs by Paul Crask 32

62 THE NIGHT HUNTERS

Up close and personal with nature island bats Words and photographs by Paul Crask

68 TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

Unravelling our enigmatic rivers one small step at a time Words and photographs by Paul Crask

JOURNEY 82 ONE BREATH, NO TANK

The philosophy and practice of freediving

Words by Paul Crask | Photographs by Paul Crask and Franck Seguin

92 SUSTAINABLE JOURNEYS

Travelling to work and working to travel Words and photographs by Paul Crask

100 A WALK TO THE SEA

40 www.dominicatraveller.com

Hiking from Laudat to Castle Bruce Words and photographs by Paul Crask

CONTRIBUTORS Terri Henry is an ecotherapy and rewilding guide offering forest bathing and rewilding retreats in Dominica.

MARICA HONYCHURCH is a professional freelance photographer who specialises in travel and portrait photography.

52

LEANDRA LANDER is a geography teacher at Convent High School in Roseau and was Miss Dominica 2007. A member of the Sisserou Singers, she is actively involved in Dominica’s cultural scene.

ARUN MADISETTI is a photographer, marine biologist, and scuba instructor. He is also a director of local photography company, Images Dominica.

62

TIMOTHY ROMMEN is the Davidson Kennedy Professor of Music and Africana Studies at the University of Pennsylvania.

FRANCK SEGUIN is an award-winning sports photographer who works for L’Equipe in France.

Special thanks to Franck for allowing us to use his fabulous images of freediver Morgan Bourc’his.

7

68

92

100

82

8

www.dominicatraveller.com

9

MY VILLAGE, Petite Savanne Surviving disaster AND celebrating heritage Words Haillie Francis, a student at Pierre Charles Secondary School, Grand Bay Petite Savanne (Little Savannah or T-Savanne) is a village situated on the south eastern coast of Dominica and is known for its steep and rugged terrain.

According to Dominica historian, Dr Lennox Honychurch: “Since colonial times, plantation owners owned much of the rich, gently sloping lands in Dominica. When the British took over in 1763 the land was surveyed into lots for sale. They created large plantations, which took up the best land, mainly flat or gently sloping. When full emancipation of the enslaved population came in 1838, the plantation owners settled in places like Mahaut, Massacre and St. Joseph. Poor white French settlers from Martinique who had mixed with Kalinagos crowded into rugged lands like Good Hope, Petite Soufriere and Petite Savanne.�

Petite Savanne estate was owned by a French woman named Ma Nichola, and is perhaps why many people from Petite Savanne have French names and are of light complexion.

On August 27th, 2015, Tropical Storm Erica devastated the village, and the government took the drastic decision to have everyone evacuated three days later on August 30th. With the help of the Barbados Coast Guard, some members of the Commonwealth of Dominica Police Force, as well as a few private entities, most of the residents were transported to safety.

10

I can still vividly recall the expressions of fear, doubt, anxiety, anger, frustration and uncertainty that overwhelmed the people of Petite Savanne as they gathered by the hundreds near the bay side on that hot Sunday morning, eagerly awaiting the orders for boarding, and not knowing whether they would ever return to see the place they called home.

www.dominicatraveller.com

YOUNG JOURNALISTS

Looking back after two years I can truly testify to the courage, heroism and resilience of the people, and in particular the members of the Petite Savanne Cultural Group. During the passage of the storm the group tragically lost a prominent member and three others had their houses completely destroyed. Most of their costumes had also been washed away.

The group was established in 1964 and has always been at the forefront of culture in Dominica. It has received several prestigious national awards for the enhancement, preservation and promotion of our island’s cultural heritage. These awards include the E.O. Leblanc Award which they received in 1988 (they were the first recipients of this award), the Golden Drum Award in 1999, and they received the Flow Creole Lifetime Award on October 6th, 2016.

The group has also represented Dominica both regionally and internationally.

As well as participating in many national cultural competitions, the Petite Savanne Cultural Group has for more than thirty years been providing entertainment to the thousands of cruise ship visitors who visit our island. A very unique and diverse group, their influence is strong, also manifesting itself in the training of numerous other cultural groups in Dominica.

In addition to the commonly performed traditional dances such as quadrille, heel and toe, flirtation and so on, there are some dances that had almost disappeared with time. I asked group members how they had managed to revive them and they said that some elders of the community knew them.

There was a couple in their late eighties who would hum the tunes and recall from memory exactly how these dances were performed. And so members of the Petite Savanne Cultural Group learned and perfected dances such as the hands pie, latay, polka merengue, waltz au Vienne and the most entertaining, lancers.

Members worked tirelessly to learn these dances and received high praise from the older folks who certified that they had indeed mastered them all. Burns and Edney Francis, two Golden Drum awardees now deceased, are remembered fondly.

Exactly one month after the storm, the group took to the stage as guests of honour at the Arawak House of Culture and demonstrated a great resilience to rise and dance again. The village of Petite Savanne is now being relocated to a place near Bellevue Chopin, and there is no doubt in my mind that whatever happens, the members of our cultural group will continue to dance their hearts out.

IN BRIEF | YOUNG JOURNALISTS

11

Dominica Folklore Traditional beliefs, customs and legends Words Melissa Williams, a student at Convent High School, Roseau In Dominica, folklore is a very important part of our culture as well as a great source of entertainment. It can be fascinating, frightening, humorous, and captivating. It helps to preserve our heritage and reflects the beliefs of our people, right back to their roots. It is also a way of passing on knowledge, of interpreting natural phenomenon, and of teaching life lessons and morals.

Folklore refers to traditional beliefs, customs and stories that have been passed down from generation to generation, usually by oral communication. It can include traditional art, literature, knowledge and practices, and it can also take the form of folktales, myths and legends.

Most of our Dominican folklore originates from Africa where culture was typically handed down through stories from one generation to another. This cultural heritage was brought to the Caribbean by slaves during colonial times, and African religious figures comprise a significant part of our folklore. These figures are also influenced by elements of our European heritage, as well as Christianity.

One of the best known folkloric characters is the soucouyant. She is a vampire witch who sheds her skin and travels through the sky at night as a ball of fire.

It is possible that Europeans brought myths of vampires to the Caribbean that were mixed up with their African counterparts, and out of this the soucouyant emerged.

12

The soucouyant lives by day as an old woman at the end of a village. By night, however, she strips off her wrinkled skin, puts it in a mortar, and flies in the shape of a fireball through the darkness, looking for a victim. Still in

PP advert 1 04.07.17_Layout 1 11/07/2017 15:13 Page 1

books from dominica “The small and invaluable Papillote Press”

Like the island itself, Dominica’s literature is full of surprises: fiction, history, memoir, children’s picture books.

All titles are available from bookshops worldwide, online - or buy when you’re on island.

Check the website (www.papillotepress.co.uk) or go to Facebook (www.facebook.com/papillotepress) and Twitter (@papillotepress)

www.dominicatraveller.com

YOUNG JOURNALISTS

the form of fire, she enters her victim’s home through the keyhole or any crack or crevice. Once inside she sucks the blood of people while they sleep, leaving blue-black marks on their bodies in the morning. The soucouyant also practices witchcraft and she trades the blood of her victims for evil powers.

To expose a soucouyant, it is said that one should leave a calabash of peas or a pile of rice in the house or at the village crossroads. The soucouyant will be obligated to gather up every grain before dawn – an impossible task - and will thus be caught in the act. In order to destroy a soucouyant, it is said that coarse salt must be placed in the mortar containing the soucouyant’s skin. The salt will prevent her from putting her skin back on and she will perish.

Another well-known Dominican folklore character is la diablesse, (the she-devil). It is said that wearing one’s clothes inside out can protect you from her!

Other characters include mama dlo (mother of water) who is a combination of a West African water spirit and a European mermaid); the ligahoo or loup aroo (a man who becomes a werewolf); papa bois (the supreme guardian of the forest), the mons (a little monster or genie hatched from an egg) and jumbies (evil spirits).

Talking animals also comprise part of our folklore.

Anansi is one of the best known of these characters.

He is a cunning spider who uses his wits to overcome any obstacle. Anansi is actually the African Ashanti word for spider and was an important character to generations of slaves as he demonstrated the ability of the weak and downtrodden to use brains, wit and cunning to triumph over an oppressor.

Part of Dominica’s folklore also comes from our native Amerindian people, the Kalinago. After they left South America, they brought their own stories that also survived through oral tradition. Their culture was also rich in myths and legends. Some examples of our Kalinago folklore include hiali (the founder of the Kalinago nation) and maruka and imanari (the charm makers).

Our folklore is an important way of preserving and remembering our rich cultural heritage and of passing on traditional knowledge and beliefs. It can also be very entertaining.

If you are visiting our beautiful and very interesting island, a good way to learn even more about us is through our rich and very entertaining folkloric stories.

PP advert 2 11.07.17_Layout 1 11/07/2017 15:12 Page 1

IN THE FORESTS OF FREEDOM The fighting Maroons of Dominica

by Lennox Honychurch

This detailed and brilliantly researched book by the Dominican historian Lennox Honychurch tells the enthralling and untold story of how the Maroons - escaped slaves - of Dominica challenged the colonial powers in a heroic struggle to create a free and self-sufficient society.

Published July 2017. Available in Dominica and online

“The small and invaluable Papillote Press” Check the website (www.papillotepress.co.uk) or go to Facebook (www.facebook.com/papillotepress) and Twitter (@papillotepress)

IN BRIEF | YOUNG JOURNALISTS

13

Papillote Wilderness Retreat Trafalgar, Roseau Valley

Immaculate and mature tropical gardens with waterfalls and mineral rich hot volcanic pools are the setting for Papillote Wilderness Retreat, Dominica’s most renowned and respected nature resort.

Located at the top of the gardens, surrounded by lush tropical flowers and plants, are two comfortable self-catering apartments and suites. Each is spacious with two bedrooms, private bathroom, fully equipped kitchen, fans, mosquito nets and a large porch with garden views. One has its own hot pool, and there is free WiFi throughout.

Our large Rainforest Restaurant is within the gardens and surrounded by bird life. From dawn until dusk, we serve a fusion of high quality Creole and international food with a focus on fresh local ingredients.

Papillote offers a number of attractive packages and is a popular venue for small weddings and meetings.

For nature lovers, our Interlude Package includes a fascinating garden tour, relaxation time in one of our hot volcanic pools, and then a delicious lunch. Other services include massage and yoga.

14

Located at the head of the Roseau Valley, just a short walk to Trafalgar Falls and a 15-minute drive from Roseau, Papillote Wilderness Retreat is one of Dominica’s greatest treasures and a must-see in the Caribbean.

T: (767) 448 2287

E:

papillote@cwdom.dm

www.papillote.dm

FB: Papillote Tropical Gardens

www.dominicatraveller.com

ARCHAEOLOGICAL HERITAGE Returning to solve the riddle of Amerindian artefacts

15 not only was there Amerindian pottery on the estate, there was also a small house - all there during the time of European occupation. Why ? illustration by dr lennox honychurch

Readers who followed the archaeological dig stories in volumes one and two of Dominica Traveller may recall that Professor Mark Hauser and his team discovered cayo pottery fragments at the site of an estate house dating from the 1780s onwards. Cayo pottery is of Amerindian origin and did not fit with everything else they had discovered there. And so in June 2017, Mark returned to the Morne Patates site with the specific aim of trying to solve the riddle.

The team excavated a larger area around the previous find and discovered post holes where a wooden house had once stood. But this was no ordinary wooden house, it seemed, for it was not rectangular like all the other dwellings of the slave village; it was round.

A round wooden house, together with cayo pottery, is an exceptional find on an 18th century European estate because a round house (probably thatched) is likely to be of Amerindian design. This meant that

At a presentation of Mark’s archaeological work at Morne Patates, Dominica historian and anthropologist Dr Lennox Honychurch was able to shed some light on a possible reason for the discovery when he referenced a document he had read during some work of his own that alluded to the presence of a ‘Carib’ who lived on a European estate, though seemingly not as a slave. There is now some suggestion that it was perhaps not uncommon for European estate owners to engage Kalinago as resident fishermen - a skill they were known to excel at. Mark also believes that next to the round house he may have also found evidence of a small ajoupa (a very common Amerindian lean-to structure) which could well have served as a Kalinago kitchen or store room.

By March 2018, when he has concluded his analysis, Mark aims to make everything he has discovered in Dominica freely available to the public via the Digital ArchAeological Archive of Comparative Slavery website (www.daacs.org).

All archaeological artefacts discovered during the team’s field work seasons will remain in Dominica.

IN BRIEF | ARCHAEOLOGICAL HERITAGE

CORAL BLEACHING EVENTS THE IMPACT OF CLIMATE CHANGE ON OUR REEFS Words and photography Arun Madisetti

16

Global warming is not a myth, and neither is coral bleaching. Tropical reef-building corals thrive in a narrow temperature range - below 18°C (64°F) and it is too cold; above 29°C (84°F) and it is too hot.

The algae (plant) within the coral structure, giving the coral its colour, can die and leave the coral (the animal), white and unable to photosynthesise. It is a fragile relationship; the algae takes in sunlight, produces oxygen and sugars, the coral utilises these for growth, as well as for capturing prey with its tentacles. The waste from the corals’ metabolism feeds the algae. This, in a nutshell, is how the process works. One feeding the other in a circular system.

Coral bleaching is a natural process. Some believe it is a means by which the coral can expel the algae and repopulate with hardier strains. However, corals can get stressed and bleached (and die) from anthropogenic sources too, for example siltation, www.dominicatraveller.com

inorganic nutrients, and other pollutants. Prior to the 1980s bleaching was generally a localised event, however since then, larger scale, even global bleaching events - caused by both climate change and human impact - have become more common.

The past few years have seen an alarming increase in what are known as bleaching years on the world’s reefs. The first and most recent massive and fully monitored event in our region was in 2006, when many of our neighbouring islands lost a significant percentage of their coral cover. Some never recovered. In that year, bleaching was evident all the way down to 30m (100ft); on plate corals in particular. Here in Dominica, in the shallows of Champagne Reef, the fire corals and elkhorn corals (pictured above) bleached over a period of two months. Elsewhere the soft corals off the midwest coast were also impacted. Over a period of several

17

weeks Dominica divers watched in alarm as healthy corals slowly grew paler and paler on our reefs.

Some died, leaving stony strictures bereft of colour.

Others, in a period from November 2006 to the end of January 2007, went from healthy to bleached, but then regained their health and colour again.

Why and how did they manage that ?

dense and sits on top. Dominica lacks a continental shelf on the west coast; in some areas a depth of over a kilometre can be reached within just two metres of the shoreline. This deep ocean water is nutrient rich and much cooler.

While our neighbouring islands were basking in the heat, here in Dominica we were experiencing a weather disturbance. Large swells brought up lots of cold water from the depths, and this mixing cooled the surface temperatures enough for the hardier corals to rebound and others to begin the process.

Having deep, cold water close to the shore hides a multitude of human sins, but it also protects our reefs from extreme bleaching events caused by climate change and other factors. This is why scuba diving is exceptional here compared to our neighbours. Not only are our reefs colourful and dramatic, the deep nutrient-rich waters help to keep them far healthier than places where the water is shallow and warm.

Luckily for us we have extremely deep water very close to shore, and this is what saved and continues to protect our coral reefs. Warm water – a major factor creating bleaching events globally - is less

But we must not be complacent, for it is not just climate change that bleaches and kills reef systems - siltation, chemical fertilisers and pollution are also serial killers of coral.

IN BRIEF | CORAL BLEACHING EVENTS

18

www.dominicatraveller.com

Sisserou Lodge Reigate, Roseau

Enjoy panoramic mountain and sea views from the cool balcony of Sisserou Lodge, located on a peaceful ridge high above Roseau, with AC, fully equipped kitchen, modern furnishings, large bed, TV, WiFi and exclusive use of pool with gazebo and loungers. Convenient for the city, major hiking trails, dive shops, hot volcanic spas and the sea, your hosts offer onsite support, housekeeping, laundry service and full grocery welcome pack. A unique opportunity to relax in comfort, close to Dominica’s favourite sites.

T: (767) 277 8714

E: fsawers@gmail.com Find us on AirBnB !

URBAN GARDEN CAFE 8 Castle Street, Roseau

Healthy, organic and delicious, Urban Garden’s daily menu offers a mouthwatering choice that includes lunch specials, wraps, tacos, stuffed waffles, rotis, salads, burritos, vegan options and more. Using fine, fresh ingredients, Urban Garden’s breakfasts, lunches and daytime snacks are served at unbeatable prices. Looking for great tasting, healthy food in the Roseau area ? Drop into Urban Garden Café in the French Quarter. Open 8am-5pm Mon-Thu, until midnight Fri, and 10am-5pm Sat. See you soon !

T: (767) 317 8888

E: urbangardendominica@gmail.com FB: Urban Garden Cafe

19

www.dominicatraveller.com

THE LOFT ART & CAFE Victoria Street, Roseau

Frequently cited as one of the best spots on island for seafood dishes, The Loft is a very relaxed and unpretentious café, bar and art gallery on the waterfront in Newtown, just a five-minute walk south of Fort Young and the French Quarter.

The popular lunch and dinner menu includes catch of the day, lionfish, octopus, calamari, shrimp, roti and much more. Try the lobster wrap, the pork bagel burger or the one and two-mast beef burgers with a selection of sea sides - basmati rice, garden salad, or maybe some breadfruit fries. Delicious desserts include home-made coconut marble cheesecake and banana icecream.

Dine indoors or al fresco on the covered waterfront deck. The Loft’s art gallery and gift shop has a wide selection of original paintings, crafts and souvenirs.

Open Mon-Sat. There’s no better place to chill.

T: (767) 440 4660 / 285 5036

E: theloftdominica@outlook.com FB: The Loft art & cafe 21

CAFE desiderata Old Street, Roseau

Step out of the hustle and bustle of the capital into a hidden oasis of tranquillity and good taste.

Deconstructed haute Caribbean cuisine in a chic and stylish setting is the daily fare at Café Desiderata where excellent dining is accompanied by attentive and gracious service. Our breakfast and lunch menu varies daily, depending on what is fresh and available from our organic garden. Favourites include smoked marlin jalapeño pasta, fisherman’s crunch, and our delectable selection of rice bowls.

But everything is crisp, fresh and delicious here.

We open our lounge on Saturday evenings for tapas, tempura, fine wines and good conversation.

Worldly flavours, home-grown healthy organic food and exquisite attention to detail and service is our mantra. We are located near the Old Market Square in the French Quarter of Roseau.

T: (767) 448 6522 / 448 6525

E: desideratasales@gmail.com FB: Café Desiderata

Garraway Hotel

Dame Eugenia Charles Blvd (Bay Front), Roseau Located on Roseau’s Bay Front, within the Old French Quarter and near the cruise ship jetty, Garraway is a hotel of international standards and reputation. An ideal choice for both the business and leisure traveller, its deluxe rooms and suites are well appointed and spacious. They have en suite bathrooms, AC, WiFi and fans.

The modern conference room can accommodate up to 175 and is perfect for business meetings, workshops and social functions.

Delicious fine Creole and international cuisine is served daily in the Balisier Restaurant and more casual drinks and dining can be enjoyed in the Ole Jetty Bar or on our open-air rooftop terrace.

We pride ourselves on excellence and extend a warm welcome to all our Garraway visitors.

T: (767) 449 8800

E:

garraway@cwdom.dm

www.garrawayhotel.com

FB: The Garraway Hotel 22

Pearl's Cuisine

Old Street & Hanover Street, Roseau Did you know Pearl’s Cuisine has a fabulous dining room right in the heart of Roseau? Located in the Sutton Place Hotel on Old Street, we serve high quality Creole lunches from Monday through Saturday. We also cater for birthday parties and wedding receptions.

If it’s in season, it’s on your plate; be it fresh garden salad and vegetables, catch of the day, roast pork, beef, lamb or chicken. It’s all delicious.

Our take-out shop on Hanover Street has been popular for years. Pick up a roti, a Creole lunch or a fresh fruit juice - there’s always plenty of choice.

A Dominica treasure and tradition for over 25 years, and still with some of our original staff, Pearl’s Cuisine is where good taste matters as much as cost.

Pearl’s Cuisine dining at Sutton Place Hotel on Old Street, take-out on Hanover Street, Roseau.

T: (767) 448 8707

FB: Pearl’s Cuisine www.dominicatraveller.com

Evergreen Hotel Castle Comfort, Roseau

Situated on the waterfront just one mile from Roseau and with easy access to the island’s popular natural attractions and dive shops, Evergreen is a beautiful, peaceful and relaxing 16 room hotel with fine dining Sea Surge restaurant and casual Cafe Sol. The airconditioned rooms are en suite with cable TV, WiFi, and some with private balcony. A detached and private waterside bungalow offers extra luxury.

In addition to the swimming pool and sun terrace, there is direct access to the Caribbean Sea with a mini dock, patio and a stony beach. In less than a minute you can be snorkelling on the house reef in the company of colourful tropical fish, corals, and even passing turtles.

Cafe Sol serves breakfast and bites until late, and the Sea Surge restaurant offers an exquisite fusion of Creole and international dishes. Watch sailboats at anchor, enjoy breathtaking sunsets, or drop in for a Lazy Sunday buffet from 1pm to 4pm with live music.

If you are anchored nearby, simply follow the sound of music and come and join us !

Airport transfers, weddings and celebratory events, island tours, hiking guides, scuba diving and whale watching can all be arranged for you.

T: (767) 448 3288 / 277 4691 / 614 4057

E:

info@evergreenhoteldominica.com

www.evergreenhoteldominica.com

FB: Evergreen Hotel

23

ISLAND BOUYON Dominica’s contemporary music scene Words Timothy Rommen Photographs Marica Honychurch

If you happen to arrive in Dominica during Carnival or the Independence season, your ears — actually, your whole body — will be assailed by the sounds of bouyon music. Bands like Triple Kay, WCK Band, Asa Banton, along with many others, work all year to be ready to provide the soundtrack for these weeks-long celebrations. You hear them live at clubs, hotels, and stadiums; on the road among crowds of fans during Carnival; and on radio, social media, and television. You’ll hear lots of other Dominican music too, including traditional sounds like jing ping and lapo kabwit, along with the everpopular genre called cadencelypso, but bouyon is the dominant popular music in Dominica at the moment.

24

This up-tempo, dance-inducing, intense, fun-producing music is special in that it could only have been imagined and conceived by artists who understand deeply the roots of Dominican musical life and who also see themselves as musical citizens of the whole Caribbean. Bouyon sounds the way it does because it grounds itself in several very important local musical ideas while simultaneously drawing on the sonic resources of the wider Caribbean for inspiration. This approach to creating music is, to my mind, indicative of the way Dominican’s approach their place in the region more generally. That is, as proud people who also understand their deep historical connections to their island neighbours and to the wider region—as citizens of both island and archipelago.

Gordon Henderson (one of the pioneers of cadencelypso) put this sentiment and orientation into lyrical form in a song called Antillais Sans Frontières, singing, “Some may say we’re divided by the sea. I say we’re united by the sea.”

This is a beautiful recognition of the nature of island life. Yes, water does separate the Caribbean islands one from the other, but the sea connects each of them in meaningful ways.

opposite: triple kay internationaL www.dominicatraveller.com

CULTURE

25

CULTURE | ISLAND BOUYON

26

www.dominicatraveller.com

27

asa banton on stage at the world creole music festival

CULTURE | ISLAND BOUYON

This kind of connection to the wider Caribbean is not easy to imagine; partly because one of the legacies of colonialism is a region politically and linguistically divided. But Dominica’s colonial history (France and Britain long competed for control of the island) and its current status as an English-speaking nation located in a French Caribbean neighbourhood (right between Guadeloupe and Martinique) mean that Dominicans continue to feel a longstanding and deep cultural affinity with both the anglophone and francophone Caribbean. This translates into musical ideas and styles that demonstrate, as Henderson would say, that Dominicans feel “united by the sea” to the wider region, and bouyon makes these sentiments audible day in and day out.

28

above and opposite: triple kay international OVERLEAF: WCK BAND

www.dominicatraveller.com

When bouyon was incubated during the 1980s, the nation had just gained independence from Britain (1978) and many young musicians and cultural activists were caught up in the project of nation building. The WCK band, widely credited with developing the basic approach to what would come to be called bouyon, experimented with various local musical ideas, combining them with sounds drawn from the wider region. They took rhythmic inspiration and accordion sounds from jing ping ensembles, listened carefully to the rhythmic complexities of lapo kabwit (carnival drumming), and combined these ideas with sounds drawn from zouk (a French Antillean genre) and soca (an

anglophone Caribbean genre) to create a new music characterised primarily by its mixture of local and regional influences. Eventually, this genre was named bouyon, a local term for a broth or stock that forms the base for a wide variety of culinary options (any meat and vegetables on hand can go into the pot). This culinary metaphor of Creoleness (of mixture) fits perfectly the aims and sounds of the musical genre, and bouyon has continued to find ways of making these connections to both local and regional sounds ever since.

What makes bouyon so unique among the popular musics of the Caribbean is its commitment to crossing over linguistic and political boundaries.

Most artists choose to write music that will appeal to the constituency they know best (anglophone, francophone, etc.). Mixing too obviously across these boundaries can muddy the waters in terms of market and marketing. And yet, because of Dominica’s history, because of its small size, and because musicians in Dominica were and continue to be exposed to both anglophone and francophone sounds, this type of mixture — this Creole sound — makes intuitive and creative sense. Bouyon then, can be understood as one response to living a creative life in Dominica.

Today, WCK and Triple Kay connect with audiences both in Dominica and around the region (they tour

regularly), representing Dominica but sounding like a mash-up of soca and zouk — that is, they sound recognisable to audiences in the francophone and anglophone Caribbean. Occasional phrases in French Creole, stage tactics taken from soca (multiple lead singers taking turns driving the crowd), and a brutally efficient combination of drumming and programmed percussion create a powerful presentation, regardless of where they happen to be playing. Although the sounds of the accordion have (mostly) fallen by the wayside, replaced by more modern keyboard sounds, the core of bouyon’s connection to Dominica’s traditional music types remains strong, and Dominicans are proud of the continued connection that bouyon makes to its local musical roots.

Bouyon, then, is a popular music that stakes a claim as both local (island) and regional (archipelagic) music through its deliberate reliance on the sonic resources of both, through its insistence on sounding Creole. So, if you are lucky enough to hear bouyon live during Carnival or at the World Creole Music Festival, you will be engaging with a genre that is making both a musical argument and a very gentle political point. Dominica may be small, but it sounds as big as the whole Caribbean. Colonial histories may have left a region currently fractured and divided, but music can illustrate the powerful connections that remain.

CULTURE | ISLAND BOUYON

29

30

www.dominicatraveller.com

31

CULTURE | ISLAND BOUYON

32

If you are in Dominica for long enough, you will hopefully also experience two other artists who are pushing the boundaries of what local music sounds like. I am referring specifically to the music of Michele Henderson and Breve Muzik.

Michele Henderson has, for the past two decades, been a pioneering vocalist intent on exploring r&b, jazz, and local genres in relation to each other. She has maintained an impressive international touring schedule while also developing a signature music style. Instead of focusing only on developing the sonic resources of Dominica and the Caribbean, Henderson has consistently reached beyond the region to find inspiration in genres that are more cosmopolitan. And yet, despite this broader reach and appeal, she too is still deeply indebted to a backdrop of local island music (and in particular, to cadencelypso). She remains a staple at the World Creole Music Festival and Jazz And Creole, and if you are fortunate enough to see and hear her perform, you will enjoy an artist that proudly and skilfully combines international sounds with local flair.

Breve Muzik is an up-and-coming band consisting of musicians who are exploring what it means to sound Dominican through an appetite to experiment with and perform a wide-range of musical genres.

Always grounded in regional rhythmic ideas and www.dominicatraveller.com

traditional sounds, the band moves easily between jazz, alternative, folk, and r&b, composing songs that are by turns acoustic ballads, full-on jazz-rock tunes, as well as tributes to local style. This group of musicians is just beginning to tour outside of Dominica (including a cruise ship season) and, if you get the chance to hear them at a festival such as Creole in the Park or perhaps at a live show during Carnival, you will be presented with a vision of Dominica that is refreshingly devoid of stylistic lineages or genre expectations. This is a band intent on centring the island through drawing on the musical resources of the world.

From the infectious bouyon of Triple Kay and WCK, to the locally-inflected yet cosmopolitan r&b and jazz of Michele Henderson, on to the more worldly approach of Breve Muzik, Dominica’s contemporary artists are performing in a way that rethinks the notion of island music in the terms suggested by Gordon Henderson. This approach is a powerful reminder that small nations can sound big, and that island music can help us hear the connections that political, social, and racial histories often obscure.

If you are lucky enough to travel to Dominica, I encourage you to enjoy these sounds not merely as wonderful statements of musical creativity, but also as profound social and political arguments for interconnectedness.

ABOVE left: michele henderson above and right: Members of Breve Muzik

33

Timothy Rommen is the Davidson Kennedy Professor of Music and Africana Studies at the University of Pennsylvania. He specialises in the music of the Caribbean with research interests that include decoloniality, critical theory, ethics, tourism, diaspora, and the intellectual history of ethnomusicology. He is the author of “Mek Some Noise”: Gospel Music and the Ethics of Style in Trinidad and “Funky Nassau”: Roots, Routes, and Representation in Bahamian Popular Music. He is also co-editor, with Daniel Neely, of Sun, Sea, and Sound: Music and Tourism in the Circum-Caribbean (Oxford University Press, 2014) and editor of and contributing author to Excursions in World Music (Routledge, 2016).

CULTURE | ISLAND BOUYON

Sixth Form Sisserou Singers A project of endless possibilities Words Leandra Lander Photographs Paul Crask

A celebrated CULTURAL INSTITUTION, The Sixth Form Sisserou Singers PROVIDES a platform for choral music and holistic development.

34

www.dominicatraveller.com

35

CULTURE | SIXTH FORM SISSEROU SINGERS

What was initially meant to be a simple project between The Division of Culture, spearheaded by cultural officer, Miss Pearle Christian, and a group of mostly female students of the former Clifton Dupigny Community College (one of the island’s only tertiary education institutions at the time), has now evolved into the celebrated choral group that is known as the Sixth Form Sisserou Singers, and which has survived, excelled and also connected hundreds of young men and women for the last 23 years.

36

It is a remarkable fact that what started out as a simple musical ensemble for graduations and other school ceremonies, has become a focal point for so many young people who, before this choir existed, had limited opportunities for any kind of performance experience or personal development. It has served as a home-away-from-home for overseas friends such as our African members, Clementine, MariePascale Affana and Samuel Aasipelokai, who came to Dominica to study medicine. Additionally, it has honed the skills of successful musicians such as Michele Henderson, Webster ‘De Web’ Marie, Janae Jackson, Delah Gachette and Tasha ‘Tasha P’ Peltier. Similarly, this amazing cultural group has given participants of national pageants such as Daina Matthew, Nadine Sylvester, Royette Laurent, Michelle Joseph and Miss Dominica winners, Leandra Lander (2007) and Tasia Foissac (2016) the valuable experience of stage performance.

The Sixth Form Sisserou Singers has provided a solid grounding not just for musical ability, it has also helped to develop organisation and leadership skills as our members are nominated to sit on an executive that plans and manages stage shows such as the Christmas Humanitarian Tour (where we visit and entertain the elderly and infirm in our communities), the annual summer full length production, and numerous others. Many members have gone on to form or manage community, church and school choirs and groups. The Sixth Form Sisserou Singers is not just about choral singing, as it has also provided our accompanying musicians with the experience of playing their instruments as part of lively and diverse stage shows.

The choir has connected people from all parts of the island and beyond. Its magical attraction has brought together vibrant personalities from southern communities such as Grand Bay, and spirited young people from eastern hamlets like Atkinson, www.dominicatraveller.com

La Plaine, Riviere Cyrique and Morne Jaune.

Members also come from the northern communities of Portsmouth and Calibishie, west coast villages such as Colihaut, Salisbury, and Mahaut, as well as the capital Roseau and its suburbs. Through this group, strangers from near and far have bonded together and have even become maids of honour and best men at each other’s weddings, godparents to each other’s children, and in some cases, even each other’s wives or husbands! It has created lifelong friendships teeming with support for one another in good and bad times alike. Most of us take away the music, but all of us take away the lessons of love, dedication, second chances, team work, excellence, determination and family. Of course, we have experienced our share of challenges and setbacks regarding group dynamics, differing views and personalities, conflicting ideas and preferences, and we all come from varied backgrounds, but when the music starts, all of this fades away and the aim of producing a high quality performances takes precedence.

Since 1994, the group has performed a myriad of songs such as Handel’s Hallelujah Chorus, beautiful hymns by Joseph M. Martin, classic show pieces from Broadway plays like Cats and Les Miserables, pulsating soca, popular calypso and reggae tunes, all the way through to rhythmical and scintillating African Chants and Caribbean folk specials.

Every member, with joy on their face, and a warm feeling in their heart, can render their favourites in a heartbeat; be it the spicy Guyanese folk song ‘Timba’ immensely enjoyed by the 2015 cohort, or the hauntingly beautiful ‘Ogwio’ which was composed by director Pearle Christian herself, and of which the 2004 cohort were especially fond.

The third daughter of Henkel L. Christian and Muriel Matthew Christian, Pearle had a vision for the youth of her island and it is certain that she has surpassed any expectations she may have envisaged both for herself and for those she has influenced. She may not have any biological children of her own, but she has hundreds of young people who affectionately call her ‘Aunty’, and who embrace her as if she were their mother. With her warm smile, arched brows, charming sense of humour, talented fingers on flute and piano, firm discipline and loving embrace, she has made an impressive and lasting impact on the choral music landscape in Dominica through the development of young people.

37

CULTURE | SIXTH FORM SISSEROU SINGERS

38

www.dominicatraveller.com

39

CULTURE | SIXTH FORM SISSEROU SINGERS

through the DEVELOPMENT of young people, Pearle has made a lasting impact on the choral music landscape of Dominica.

There is truly no one quite like this pearl of a woman. She has taught us so many life lessons; hard work, compassion for others, being good and positive people, and never settling for anything but our best effort.

All of this could be summed up by the group’s motto that anything worth doing is worth doing well. Pearle often reminds us that we are only as good as our least prepared singer. In other words, it is about far more than individuals. We are at our best when everyone around us is also at their best. And that is the unfailing message not just for performance and rehearsal success, but also for the problems we face in this world.

40

This much loved choral group has performed in a whole spectrum of colour, it has sung from thousands of scores and music sheets, belted out hundreds of different folk songs, honoured numerous stalwarts of music in Dominica, performed at countless cultural galas, cocktails, conferences, ceremonies, staged twenty full-length productions, and has accommodated close to 200 young people. Wow! But beyond all those performances and achievements, the Sixth Form Sisserou Singers has provided its diverse and fluid association of members with strength, joy and lessons that will last a lifetime.

A few years ago, we sang ‘You’ll Never Walk Alone’, a show tune from the 1945 Rodgers and Hammerstein musical Carousel. It is a song that sums up my experience as a member of the Sixth Form Sisserou Singers.

Indeed I am sure this rings true for all who have been lucky enough to be part of what has become a cultural institution in Dominica. Everyone needs just one person to believe in them and, in this group, I found that one person and many more.

When the curtain goes up and the lights go on, you know that twenty or more other voices are right there with you. Pearle stands out in front, confident that she has done her best as a director, tutor and mentor, and that you now have the chance to make an impact. We are not perfect, but we are parts of a project that has created so many possibilities.

And we sing.

Leandra Lander is a geography teacher at Convent High School, Roseau. A member of The Sixth Form Sisserou Singers since 2005, she was crowned Miss Dominica in 2007, and is an active member of Dominica’s cultural scene. www.dominicatraveller.com

41

CULTURE | SIXTH FORM SISSEROU SINGERS

the TRADITION OF RUM an intoxicating taste of the caribbean Words and photography Marica Honychurch

With a culture and history as rich as that of the Caribbean, why should its trademark spirit be any differenT ?

Rum has spawned a culture so deeply associated with Caribbean life that this three-letter word conjures up images of pirates, beaches, dominoes, colourful rum shops, and the dark visions of slavery and war.

Just as wine or brandy has many variations, the rum styles around the Caribbean range from light to dark, aged, spiced and flavoured; all with distinct notes of their own.

42

Dominicans’ relationship with rum does not have the same scale and reputation as other Caribbean islands, notably Barbados, Jamaica, and Martinique, where flat land is plentiful and rum-making prospered. But as this island has always proven, we do things in our own way and with a little of our own ‘vari’ to use the Creole phrase for style.

A drive around the island will quickly reveal the importance that rum plays in our culture and its strong association with a wide range of social activities.

Peppered amongst the little villages, or even in isolated areas in the mountains, you can always find a rum shop.

A simple structure in design, its brightly painted walls and shutters come straight to the point with a sign somewhere that informs patrons that the proprietor is licensed to sell spirits and malts by retail. Here form follows function in a most charming and uninhibited way. Inside, the wooden shelves are lined with spirits, and a few people, usually men, are lounging on wooden stools by the counter, getting their daily shot of rum, and engaging in a bit of social life, political debate, and the latest gossip. The place is unassuming, inviting, sometimes lively and boisterous, and laid out in a ‘come as you are’ manner.

www.dominicatraveller.com

43

CULTURE | TRADITION OF RUM

44

www.dominicatraveller.com

LEFT: PLANTING AND HARVESTING SUGAR CANE BELOW: VATS AND WATER-POWERED CANE-CRUSHING MACHINE WORKS AT THE MACOUCHERIE ESTATE

45

CULTURE | THE TRADITION OF RUM

There is laughter, shouting, raised voices, and “pax!”

- the slamming down of dominoes against the top of a small wooden table; four men seated around it, relaxing with their dominoes in one hand and a drink by their side…

As many know by now, Dominica is no ordinary island. With the constant conflict between the English and French, and with the Kalinago people fiercely and justifiably fighting to protect and hold onto their land, Dominica was established as a neutral island in 1660 to be left to the Kalinagos forever. French authorities decreed that no byproduct of sugar cane - rum, molasses or sugar - could be manufactured in Dominica because as far as they were concerned the island’s future ownership hung in the balance and any investment in the expensive machinery required would inevitably be a risky business.

Scattered around the dryer portions of the island, there were a few sugar mills that were driven by teams of oxen; along breezy ridges there were some six known windmills, but most notably, thanks to the profusion of fast flowing streams, there were 61 water-driven mills around the island. Only one of these water mills still operates today, crushing sugar cane on the Macoucherie Estate. Elsewhere around the island the ruins of mills, distilleries and boiling houses can still be found, with huge, rather decrepit waterwheels still in place, with iron rollers, crumbling canals and aqueducts. Signs of a once bustling industry can still be found in places like Rosalie, Hampstead, Geneva and - perhaps the best preserved structure - the Old Mill in Canefield.

As events unfolded, it was the British who broke this treaty of neutrality and took over the island in 1763, with an eye to stripping the forested mountains and covering the river valleys and hillsides with fields of sugar cane. Dominica was a late arrival into the sugar and rum business (one hundred years after

The production of rum can be quite complex. The growing of the cane is very tedious and, even today, demands intensive labour. A large area is cleared to cultivate the cane which takes approximately a year to mature before it is reaped and transported to the mill. The cane stalks are crushed by rollers to squeeze

46

www.dominicatraveller.com

Jamaica and Barbados) but it made up for lost time and within a decade was pumping out the product.

out the cane juice which is then funnelled into large vats to ferment. On many of the islands, the rum is produced from molasses which is another step in the process. However, in Dominica, the production of rum is more fashioned after the French style known as Rhum Agricole. Instead of fermenting molasses, it is the sugar cane juice which is fermented and then distilled to produce a unique and sweeter flavour.

As recently as the 1970’s Bagatelle, Belfast and River Estate also produced rum through the cane juice process. Today there are two major distributors in Dominica – Belfast Estate, which now blends and processes rum from imported molasses, and distributes brands such as Red Cap, Soca and Bois Bande - and Shillingford Estates, producers of Macoucherie Rum, which operates the last standing distillery in Dominica that processes the rhum agricole style from its cane fields to the bottle.

The Macoucherie Estate dates back to 1770 and a few of its original buildings, including the mill house, still stand today. In 1827, 196,000 pounds of sugar, 4,025 gallons of rum and 7,225 gallons of molasses were produced there. However, by 1890

it concentrated only on the production of rum. After many changes in ownership the estate was acquired

by Howell Shillingford in 1930. His descendents still manage the estate. It is powered by one of the last two water-driven mills in the Caribbean (the other being River Antoine in Grenada). Twenty to thirty percent of the estate’s land was allocated to sugar cane plantations and the small but admirable company produces 10,00 gallons annually which is sold locally to outlets scattered around Dominica.

With the unfortunate damage caused by Tropical Storm Erika in August 2015, Macoucherie Estate was seriously affected. The river burst its banks, sweeping over the cane fields and through the mill yard, flooding the works and rum store, bringing production to a halt. The distillery is working towards operating again by the end of 2017.

Cask rum is a popular variant in Dominica, sold both

by Belfast and Macoucherie, to rum shops, caterers, hotels, bars and restaurants. The blending in wooden barrels and a proof of about 128%, makes this strong tannin-infused spirit a desirable substance to mix with herbs and spices, creating wide varieties of intoxicating blends. The island’s rum shops often

47

CULTURE | THE TRADITION OF RUM

ILLICIT rum production is also a colourful aspect of Dominica’s folk culture

have spiced rum selections which can include nanni (rosemary), pwev (the scented leaves of the costus plant), and anything else that you can think of: lemongrass, lavender, basil, sea grapes and much more.

Illicit rum production is also a colourful aspect of Dominica’s folk culture.

Dating back to 1765, when laws were first passed to regulate the production of spirits, illegal distilleries emerged to avoid taxation. Initially subsistent farmers were the main culprits and it became more of a feature during the 19th and 20th centuries when little stills were set up in the hills near isolated villages. Known as ‘Zaid’ or ‘Wabiyo’ in Creole and ‘Mountain Dew’ in English, the illegal rum was made by crushing cane in hand-operated squeezers. The juice was collected in calabashes and then transferred to small boilers in which the distillation took place. In its heyday, this rum was sold by word of mouth through a network of informants linked to communities located in hard to access areas such as Petite Savanne.

Dominica’s rum, although produced in small quantities, provides an exquisite taste of the island’s history.

48

Born and raised in Dominica, Marica Honychurch moved to the U.S in her late teens where she was first introduced to the world of photography.

Gaining a B.F.A at the University of Colorado, Boulder, Marica was able to experience film and dark room processes before transitioning over to digital.

She also attended the Hallmark Institute of Photography where she spent time developing her skills in commercial photography, before moving to New York City to work as a photographer. Marica now resides in Dominica as a freelance photographer, however travels for work mainly in document and portrait photography. She recently co-founded a design company, Blue Curtain Creative with her sister, Petrea Honychurch-Seaman. www.dominicatraveller.com

49

CULTURE | THE TRADITION OF RUM

The Tamarind Tree Hotel & Restaurant Salisbury

Centrally located on the Caribbean coast, The Tamarind Tree has 15 double rooms with en suite bathrooms, ceiling fans and porch. Superior rooms also have AC. Perched high on a cliff, our guests enjoy fabulous sea views while relaxing in the gardens, pool and Jacuzzi. Three 2-bedroom self-catering cottages are ideal for independent travellers and families.

Each is bright and airy with en suite bathrooms, living area, kitchen and veranda deck.

Hotel and cottage guests, as well as the public, enjoy a cooling breeze in our open-sided restaurant while dining on excellent Creole and international fare. The local Kubuli beer is available on draft!

The Tamarind Tree is welcoming, family-friendly with German and French also spoken. We are a proud member of Eco Tropical Resorts.

T: (767) 449 7395

E:

hotel@tamarindtreedominica.com

www.tamarindtreedominica.com

FB: The Tamarind Tree Hotel

www.dominicatraveller.com

KARIB BAY BEACH BAR Mero Beach

Enjoy beach vibes to the max at Karib Bay Beach Bar - the full service beach experience on Dominica’s beautiful mid west coast.

Relax with al fresco dining on our spacious covered beach deck where French and West Indian cuisine is served daily. All our dishes are created from the natural land and sea gardens of Dominica using only the freshest and highest quality ingredients available. We offer late breakfast, lunch and dinner every day from 10am. Just turn up and enjoy great food and a peaceful ambiance. We have a full bar and our fresh fruit smoothies are thirst-quenching and delicious. We are proud to be accessibility-friendly, we have loungers, toilets and showers, and a mini boutique that is stocked with personally selected authentic local arts, craft, natural products, tee shirts and literature that reflect our love and respect for the environment. We also offer wellness treats such as massage on the beach, and our Kingdom Rental Car service gives you the flexibility you need to explore.

Every Easter Sunday we host Reggae On The Beach - a very popular annual fund-raising charity concert for the Dominica Association for Persons with Disabilities (DAPD). It is a chilled-out event that is full of great music, peace and love, and where you can relax on the beach enjoying local and international reggae artists as well as great food and drink. See you soon at Karib Bay !

T: (767) 449 7922

FB: Karib Bay Beach Bar

51

Harmony Villa Layou Road, Pont Casse

Nestled on two acres of undulating forested gardens on the western foothills of the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, this artistic Caribbean style home with just the right touches of luxury offers families, couples, adventurers and creatives an ideal spot from where to experience some of the most beautiful natural attractions on Dominica.

Just a few minutes from the Waitukubuli National Trail break between segments 4 & 5, as well as numerous other fabulous hikes and waterfalls, Harmony Villa is the perfect blend of comfort, inspiration and convenience in the ‘Heart of Dominica’.

Offering four en suite bedrooms, full kitchen and open living spaces, including a large wrap around veranda, guests can enjoy delicious meals ‘al fresco’ and caring attention from a dedicated team.

T: (+44) 74 7046 6502 / (767) 245 4166

E:

info@harmonyvilla.com

www.harmonyvilla.com

FB: Harmony Villa

CHOOSE A FINANCIAL PARTNER THAT SHARES YOUR GOALS AND CAN HELP YOU MEET THEM.

For over 39 years, NBD has provided solutions to local, regional and international clients. We offer a full suite of financial services and are the market leader across core business lines.

NBD is a major player in the corporate banking arena, with affiliations with other indigenous banks in the Eastern Caribbean.

We have the largest network of branches, ATMs and Points of Sale in the market.

NBD is committed to being an ambassador of economic and social progress in Dominica.

FOR MORE INFORMATION:

www.nbdominica.com | or call: (767) 255 2300 customersupport@nbd.dm www.dominicatraveller.com

Citrus Creek Plantation Riverside Cafe & Lodge La Plaine

Located alongside the Taberi River, in a 20-acre protected valley, and within easy reach of natural attractions such as Sari Sari Falls, Wavine Cyrique, and Bout Sable Beach, Citrus Creek is ideally situated for exploring the east.

There are no pretensions here and a relaxed and comfortable ambiance makes you feel right at home.

Eight wood and stone cottages and villas, part of a rental pool program, fit perfectly into the forest, garden and river environment and suit all budgets and tastes.

Fresh breakfast ingredients are delivered daily to your door and airport transfers, tours and excursions can all be arranged for you. The Riverside CafĂŠ is open daily to guests and visitors, serving lunches and dinners. Creole with a touch of France - the food is always fresh and delicious.

T: (767) 446 1234

E:

riverside@citruscreekplantation.com

www.citruscreekplantation.com

FB: Citrus Creek Plantation

53

Banana LAMA Eco Villa & Cottages Newfoundland Estate, Rosalie

Set within three acres of riverside, organic farm, and forested land, and completely off-grid, Banana Lama is a fully self-sustainable, peaceful and private accommodation option for independent travellers.

The self-contained, spacious cottages are just a few footsteps from the lovely Cacao River. They have a fully equipped kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, living area and large covered veranda overlooking the gardens and the river. There is also WiFi throughout.

Owners and hosts, Melissa and Andy, have sailed around the globe on superyachts and the diverse world cuisine that can be prepared and served for you in the luxurious and stylish villa is a reflection of their voyages.

Banana Lama is located close to the turtle nesting sites at Rosalie and the waterfalls of the south east.

T: (767) 446 1183

E:

bananalamaecovilla@mailbox.as

www.bananalamaecovilla.com

FB: Banana Lama Eco Villa

54

Back to the wild Rewilding | Forest bathing | Reconnecting with nature Words Paul Crask and Terri Henry Photographs Paul Crask

www.dominicatraveller.com

NATURE

55

NATURE | BACK TO THE WILD

56

www.dominicatraveller.com

Rewilding is a modern ecological and social movement with an ancient premise, that the wild is where we come from and that making an effort to re-embrace it, and to protect it so that it can survive and thrive, are ways of behaving that will also benefit us as humans.

Many of its practices are well suited to this island, for pure, unspoilt wilderness is what Dominica still has in abundance.

Like most places in the world, Dominica has a history of people living in the wilderness, of indigenous bushcraft skills, and of hunter gatherer societies.

Migrating Amerindians travelled in canoes they made from large gommier trees, waterproofing their cedar bordage with sap and volcanic sand. They knew how to forage for fish and shellfish, they knew how to make spears, tools, fish pots and baskets from the natural materials that were around them.

Plants provided food and medicines. After European colonists arrived in the region, runaway enslaved Africans (Maroons) from Dominica, Martinique and Guadeloupe lived in communities in the island’s high forests, and as recently as the late 1970s when Dominica was in a period of political and social turmoil, there was a movement to reject the rules of what many perceived to be a corrupt and unjust modern society, and return to the wild places.

Roy Ormond and his wife Cherry (pictured left) did just this. The political situation at the time certainly played a part, but Roy’s childhood love of camping in the forest, his interest in natural living and a vegan diet, and the importance he placed on selected Biblical teachings, were all important factors in the decision to take a leave of absence from the ‘modern’ world. Family-owned farmland near Bellevue Chopin had been partly reclaimed by the wild and Roy spent his free time constructing a simple wooden house as a weekend escape. One day in 1978, the couple gave up everything and retreated to the forest.

Casting off modern clothing, they wove fibres from the stem of a species of banana plant and made skirts, vests, shoes and blankets. They planted ground provisions and vegetables to eat, they carried water from a river, and they kept a fire burning for warmth.

They learned to make knapsacks from vines as well as how to dry and store foods.

“When I became conscious I realised that a temple is not something that is built with stones and hands. We are each our own temple. I took the separation vow of the Nazirite and this helped to guide me spiritually although I cannot say I fit in any conventional category of religion. I also became a vegan because I believe the teaching that herb, not beast, was the food for man. I believe this is also borne out by scientific evidence that meat is a secondary and not a primary food source,” Roy explains. “I had changed my diet for a number of years before I went to live in the forest, and I had learned a lot from my mother who was a herbalist.”

Roy and Cherry were joined in the forest by two other like-minded couples and their children. They extended the house so that it was big enough for everyone, they shared in the cooking and other chores, they went hiking and exploring, and on Saturdays they would take a day of rest, eat fruit they had foraged, relax and talk.

“A baby boy was born to one of the couples when we were living there,” Roy continues. “My mother NATURE | BACK TO THE WILD

57

was also a midwife so we knew what to do. It was a great experience.”

Roy and Cherry recall both the beauty and the mystery of the forest and though most unusual discoveries and events could be easily explained, one night a bright beam of light containing all the colours of the rainbow briefly lit up a part of the forest.

“I have seen rainbows at night before,” says Roy. “They are usually a combination of moonlight and moisture in the air. But this was different. It was very bright and very brief, almost like lightning, yet it was rainbow coloured. We all saw it. I still haven’t come across an explanation for that particular phenomenon.”

Everything changed in 1979 when the storming of the Roseau police station resulted in escapees fleeing to the very same area of forest. The men burned down their house. Without any kind of clothing, the group were foraging for new materials when Hurricane David struck the island. They made it back and were

58

www.dominicatraveller.com

in the process of starting again when more men arrived. Fearing for the children, they reluctantly made the decision to leave. They had spent a full year living in the woods.

“I can never regret that year,” Roy says. “It was the healthiest any of us had ever felt. We had no ailments, we were hard-working and strong, and we gained a lot of wisdom. The forest also helped my mental strength, I learned how to overcome problems and so now I don’t get stressed out.”

Roy and Cherry continue to enjoy a very spiritual way of life and their bond with nature remains strong. They are still vegans and Roy is noted for his understanding and appreciation of medicinal herbs and natural oils. At their base at Harmony Gardens near Bellevue Chopin, they welcome Waitukubuli National Trail hikers and they particularly enjoy meeting and talking with other herbalists.

“I’m planning to go back there again,” smiles Roy. “I still camp in that area, I just love it. I go there to enjoy the stillness of the forest and the birds singing.”

TERRI HENRY is a modern practitioner of rewilding in Dominica. We go forest bathing together; experiences she has designed to create a deliberate pause in the rhythm of life, to take time to focus on and appreciate natural surroundings and reawaken a connection to nature. As we walk, she explains what rewilding means to her and how it has impacted her life.

Growing up in the English countryside, I always felt a strong bond with the natural world and the desire to play a role in protecting it. During my teens and twenties when I lived in London, I sought refuge in local parks from the hectic pace of city life, and I would take night-time walks along busy streets just to catch a glimpse of the full moon between buildings and skyscrapers. It was my way of keeping a connection to the natural world and of nourishing my sanity and wellbeing.

I had taken courses in permaculture design, massage therapy and other healing arts, and became fascinated with ecopsychology, a discipline that seeks to understand our intrinsic connection with nature, how it shapes us, why so many of us modern humans choose to distance ourselves from it and the effects of that disconnection. I chose to experiment with rewilding my life; living in ways that create greater health and well-being for both humans and the ecosystems that we belong to.

By the time I moved to Dominica to live, I was hungry to be fully immersed in nature and a natural lifestyle.

My paternal family roots are Dominican and as the ancestral connection to the land pulsed in my veins, I felt whole and truly alive.

As I looked around the modern world and saw the epidemic proportions of anxiety, stress, depression and chronic physical disease alongside ecological catastrophe, it became clear to me that the current human lifestyle that is increasingly sedentary,

59

NATURE | BACK TO THE WILD

urbanised and indoors and disconnected from nature, is a big cause of our problems. I came to the conclusion that solutions for many of our complex personal and planetary issues could start with the simple act of reconnecting with nature.

I began to create a fusion of wellness experiences in harmony with nature. The forest bathing I guide is one of the ways I seek to help others to enjoy a deep, sensory connection to nature; to slow down, awaken their senses and de-stress from the pressures and distractions of life. More than a temporary quick fix though, I hope that this experience inspires people to create an enduring relationship with nature and feel its ongoing benefits. Time spent in the natural world is essential to our wellbeing as human beings; we need daily doses of Vitamin ‘N’.

the magic of it all. Shifting tempo and perspective helps people gain clarity on issues that have been bothering them, or generally have a renewed sense of wellbeing and purpose.

There are many practices in forest bathing that people can take with them into everyday life for daily doses of nature connection. One of the simplest is to remove your shoes and spend time grounding on the earth. Being barefoot allows us to be a conduit for the earth’s natural, gentle electrical charge and helps to rebalance our body and control free radicals caused by pollution and foods.

Connecting barefoot with the earth is also a moment for peaceful connection to your greater ‘earth body’. It’s a moment to appreciate gravity as a

Forest Bathing is the translation of the Japanese word 60

Shinrin-Yoku which has been developed and studied since the early 1980’s and shown to be a highly effective way to improve wellbeing.

When some people hear the term forest bathing they think they are going to get wet amongst the trees but it’s not that at all. Forest bathing is a mindful and meditative practice that focuses on soaking in the ambience of nature, opening the senses and being in the present moment - it’s like a warm bath for the mind and soul.

Forest bathing and spending time in nature has been scientifically proven to have significant and measurable health outcomes such as an improved immune system, lower blood pressure, reduced stress, increased attention, focus and memory.

Nature connection also helps children with ADHD, accelerates recovery from illness or surgery, increases energy levels, and enhances our sleep and levels of creative energy and overall subjective happiness. When we connect deeply to nature we feel more alive because we are more alive !

During a forest bathing session I encourage people to slow down and notice the details. So often we walk past nature without pausing to look closer at the beauty and interconnections, and appreciate www.dominicatraveller.com

form of unconditional love and sense your sacred oneness with all of nature. As astrophysicist Neal De-Grasse Tyson says: “Accepting our kinship with all life on earth is not only solid science, it’s also a soaring spiritual experience.”

One of the easiest ways to enjoy a nature connection moment is to focus on the breath, noticing the reciprocal relationship between you and the plants around you, and expressing gratitude for the nature that is the foundation of our lives. Seeing ourselves as part of the web of life helps us and the earth to be healthier. When we do something that is good for the earth, we are doing something that is good for us too.

There are numerous other nature connection practices we can incorporate into even the busiest of schedules to boost our health. Getting a decent amount of sun exposure is crucial for sufficient vitamin D levels and a well-functioning immune system. I encourage people to get full body sun exposure whenever possible - although please note, this is up to you to do on your own - it’s not part of my forest bathing programs !

61

NATURE | BACK TO THE WILD

“I am losing precious days. I am degenerating into a machine for making money. I am learning nothing in this trivial world of men. I must break away and get out into the mountains to learn the news.” John Muir My journey of rewilding also includes eating local, seasonal foods, natural movement practices, using herbal medicines to prevent and heal illness, natural birthing, community living, bushcraft skills, and living in tune with natural seasons and cycles. Interestingly, and perhaps controversially, it has been my efforts to rewild that have led me away from a 25-year vegetarian and vegan diet to eat in a way that more closely reflects that of being a wild hunter-gatherer.

I appreciate the role of certain technology in our lives but I look to a future where the knowledge and practice of how to live in harmony with nature are considered humanity’s greatest developments.

62

In Dominica we have amazing opportunities to live wildly – clean spring water, nature in abundance, seasonal sun-ripened foods, rivers, hot volcanic sulphur pools, seas and forests to bathe in. It’s a nature playground for fun and freedom that offers a refreshing alternative to many of the arguments and rhetoric for ‘saving the planet’ or engaging in basic environmentally responsible behaviour that are often boring, guilt-ridden and restrictive. Real care and action for our personal and planetary health emerge from joy, beauty, love, immersion, engagement, and nature connection. Rewilding can lead us into a future of mutual well-being. I recommend it for everyone.

Terri ‘EarthDancer’ Henry is an ecotherapy and rewilding guide offering forest bathing and rewilding retreats in Dominica and plenty of online inspiration for those wanting to get closer to nature in other parts of the world. For more information please go to www.liveyournature.com www.dominicatraveller.com

Wilderness was here before us, we evolved in it and, though our path has been to walk away from it, migrating en mass to more urban landscapes and sprawling, overcrowded cities, for many the call of the wild remains within.

63

THE NIGHT HUNTERS Up close and personal with nature island bats Words and photography Paul Crask

64

artibeus jamaicensis www.dominicatraveller.com

Twelve species of bat have been recorded in Dominica. One of them, Myotis dominicensis is only known to occur here and in Guadeloupe. A tiny insect-eating bat, it is listed on the IUCN Red List Of Threatened Species as ‘vulnerable’. Very little is known about this little mammal.

I July 2017 I was invited to accompany bat experts, Lisa Simms and Kate Derrick on a field study. The aim was to record bats in three 600m transects of rainforest and, if possible, capture the Myotis dominicensis and fit it with an electronic tag that would enable the scientists to track it to its roost.

myotis dominicensis

65

We are camped out on a forest track above 3 Rivers Eco Lodge, near Rosalie, where the scientists are based. They are here with Operation Wallacea (Opwall), an organisation that runs a series of biological and conservation management research programmes in remote locations across the globe (www.opwall.org). We have set up two very fine catch nets on long poles. The sun has gone down, darkness is coming, and the night-time chorus of frogs, crickets and other insects is in full voice. The display and sounds coming from Lisa’s ultrasonic detector tell us that bats are all around. One particular sound ‘shape’ suggests that one of the calls may be coming from Myotis Dominicensis.

Lisa explains that she is interested in recording diversity and abundance of bats along the three transects in the forest but trying to find out more about the endemic Myotis Dominicensis is of special interest to her. She would like to determine where they roost during the day, as well as try to assess their population status here on the island. The way she hopes to do this is by capturing and tagging females that are lactating, as they will return to the roost to feed their young. This particular bat feeds on insects - Lisa also hopes to collect fecal data (that’s bat poo to you and I) so that she can figure out through DNA analysis exactly what insects they eat - and she will measure and weigh them too.

monophyllus plethodon NATURE | THE NIGHT HUNTERS

Depending on the species of bat, the roost may be located in a tree, in a building, or in a cave - which Lisa believes to be most likely. Directly below the ridge where we are standing is the Brown’s River, a tributary of the Rosalie River - and she has previously noted bats coming from that direction, up and over the ridge, and into the forest to feed. If she manages to tag a bat tonight, she expects to be tracking the signal to a river cave in daylight tomorrow. If she is successful in finding a Myotis roost, she hopes to get research funding for a masters project and return to Dominica to study the bat in far greater detail.

Lisa also explains that catching insect-eating bats such as the Myotis in these fine nets is not always straightforward. Contrary to popular belief, bats are not blind, they simply don’t see very well and rely on echo-location to find both their way around and their food in the dark. Fruit-eating bats do not have quite as sophisticated echo-location as insect-eating bats. Because bats such as the Myotis can sense and accurately pinpoint a single flying mosquito, they can also sometimes sense the presence of the net and may fly around it, whereas fruit bats tend to simply blunder into it.

66

Kate notices a bat in the net and gently retrieves it for study. This is a monophylus plethodon, also known as the Lesser Antillean long-tongued bat.

She explains that this particular species of bat feeds on nectar and is common in banana plantations where it is also a pollinator. It is a small bat with a long tongue for reaching into flowers to feed. This particular specimen is a male. Kate checks the general health of the bat, measures and weighs it. I am invited to touch the fur, which feels like any other mammal. Bat flies are present. These are specialised ectoparasites that live in bats’ fur and on their wing membranes. They feed on the blood of their host.

The next bat we catch is the same species and is soon followed by Artibeus jamaicensis, also known as the Jamaican fruit-eating bat. This is a larger bat and Kate has to wear thicker gloves to handle it in case it bites, which it does. Bats are known to be rabies carriers though there has never been any evidence of this in Dominica. As a precaution, gloves are worn to handle them and bat scientists are usually vaccinated against the disease. The Jamaican fruiteating bat is common and widespread. It is known to roost in trees, caves and occasionally buildings.

Just as Lisa is beginning to think she is out of luck with her ambition to catch a Mytosis Dominicensis, one flies into the high net. It is a lactating female; exactly what she was hoping for. She fits it with an electronic tag that sends a signal to her hand-held receiver via a small antenna and, happy that everything is ARDOPS NICHOLLSI

www.dominicatraveller.com

working, she releases the tiny creature back into the darkness.

The following day, Lisa and Kate try to track the bat to its roost. They follow the Brown’s River, scrambling over boulders and wading through deep pools, but are unable to pick up a signal from the tag. Lisa is fairly certain she is in the correct general area but the terrain turns out to be far too challenging.

Undaunted, a few nights later they ask me if I would like to join them at a different location; the Cabrits swamp. Lisa is keen to follow-up previous surveys done in this area and would like to see if we can catch Dominica’s largest bat this time; the Noctilio leporinus, also known as the fisherman bat.

KATE

Together with the expansive marshlands at nearby Glanvillea, the Cabrits swamp is a very important wetland habitat for wildlife, particularly water birds, invertebrates, and crustaceans. Lisa tells me that on at least two occasions in the past, the fisherman bat was netted here; the first time there were lots, the second much fewer. There is some speculation that an increase in lighting from nearby developments may have affected the number of bats in this area.

Noctilio leporinus is well known to fisherman around the island. It is a large bat that lives in coastal caves,

LISA artibeus jamaicensis

KATE NATURE | THE NIGHT HUNTERS

67

emerging at nightfall to skim brackish water for small fish. Lisa was interested in seeing if she could catch one here, as well as learning about other bats that feed on insects along the margins where dry forest meets swamp.

Spending a Saturday night standing knee-deep in swamp water with invisible creatures swimming around my legs, mosquitoes and other insects buzzing my ears, trying to catch a very large gingercoloured fish-eating bat, was certainly a first for me.

But this is typical of the kind of work carried out by naturalists in an attempt to study wildlife, to answer questions, and to learn more about the natural world we live in. I admired Lisa and Kate for what they were doing here, and what they have done in countless other places around the world in pursuit of their scientific interests. This is not easy work; it can be expensive, and is often frustrating. But when a new and interesting discovery is made, it makes the hardship worthwhile. And there is always something new to learn in our world, even on a little-known Caribbean island called Dominica.

68

Two bats are caught in quick succession; Artibeus jamaicensis, the Jamaican fruit-eating bat, and a new species for me this time, Ardops nichollsi, also known as the Lesser Antillean tree bat. This little fruiteating creature has yellowish ears and noseleaf the appendage it uses for echolocation. It is known to inhabit dry forest lowlands where it roosts in trees.

The fisherman bat proves elusive, we neither catch nor see one, and Lisa speculates that perhaps the expansive grasses covering much of the wetland, together with the bright security lights of developments on either side of the swamp, could have contributed to the decline in the species in this particular habitat. In the two weeks she has remaining in Dominica, she will turn her attention to other brackish water locations around the island as well as continue her search for the roost of the Myotis dominicensis.

Before I went out on these two field trips, I was one of many people who had a rather irrational fear of bats. But now I know a lot more about them and have been up close and personal with several of the species found here, my attitude has changed completely. I am now curious about and respectful of a creature that has inhabited this earth for over 50 million years, that reforests the planet by widely spreading seeds, that pollinates some of the fruit and crops we eat and that keeps insects down to manageable levels.

Bats are cool. www.dominicatraveller.com

69

NATURE | THE NIGHT HUNTERS

TAKE ME TO THE RIVER UNRAVELLING OUR ENIGMATIC RIVERS ONE SMALL STEP AT A TIME Words and photography Paul Crask

70

According to the marketing people, Dominica has 365 rivers - one for every day of the year. This is the same number of beaches attributed to Antigua - according to their marketing people. Beaches are probably easier to count than rivers, so Antiguans could easily do a fact check. But in Dominica, the truth is that we don’t actually know how many springs, streams (seasonal or permanent), headwater channels, unnamed tributaries, and named rivers, we have altogether. Considering the relatively small footprint of our island, that’s an astonishing fact.

Dominica has one of the densest clusters of volcanoes in the world and there are regions of relatively inaccessible forest-covered river valleys and steep mountain slopes that few people, at least in modern times, have explored. Because of this, not many of our rivers have been properly studied or documented from source to sea.

Visiting researchers come to Dominica to study natural sciences, including rivers and lakes, but they usually focus on a particular specialism - a subject they are writing a research paper about and for which they have received specific grant funding. Individually they are short anecdotes, but collectively, together with good old fashioned exploration, they may eventually help to tell a more comprehensive story.

www.dominicatraveller.com

71

BOERI RIVER ON ITS WAY TO MIDDLEHAM FALLS NATURE | TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

In June 2017, a group of research students led by Dr Amanda Schmidt, Assistant Professor of Biology at Oberlin College, Ohio, came here to study river sediment and water chemistry.

The story that river sediment tells is an interesting one - if you can get your head around it. Collect river sediment samples at a point that is representative of a broad watershed, and also unaffected by ocean tide, then chemical analysis can tell you a little bit about what has been going on upstream, in the interior. Amanda was particularly interested to see if river sediment could help to tell the story of soil erosion rates.

Soil erosion rates are measured in millimetres per year and, apparently, numbers greater than one millimetre are rare and suggest either a significant man-made or natural impact on the upstream watershed (the area in which any drop of rain that falls there will come out at the same point). Despite the extreme weather we have experienced in recent times, Amanda was not expecting measurements of that proportion here in Dominica. This may come as a surprise to those who live here and who have witnessed rivers of mud and rocks like we saw during the passing of tropical storm Erika in 2015.

72

The explanation is based on both frequency and area. If Dominica experienced an Erika event regularly, it could theoretically cause a millimetre of erosion. But that volume of rainfall would also have to have an impact on or shift a millimetre of sediment from every spot of the entire watershed.

For every landslide on a watershed there is actually still a great deal of the watershed that did not have a landslide. This means that although there may be a lot of sediment coming from one area, there are many more areas where no sediment is being removed. It is all relative. So the erosion rate takes into account the average movement of sediment over the entire watershed in a year.

But how can you tell where river sediment has come from or how far it has travelled along a river ? This is where rather complicated science comes in.

Amanda’s research team sampled river sediments at selected points around the island, each of which represented large watersheds (see the map above).

High topography data and software was used to define the primary drainage basins and 19 rivers were selected for sampling. Tidal areas such as the Indian River have to be avoided for this kind of sediment sampling because the study is only interested in sediment that has washed down from the interior watersheds of the island. The samples collected were sent for chemical analysis back in the www.dominicatraveller.com

US. This analysis will look for the presence of certain chemicals.

Beryllium-10 is a radioactive isotope of beryllium and is formed mainly by the impact of cosmic rays (highly energetic charged particles from beyond Earth ) on oxygen. If a rock is within two meters of the soil surface it will begin to accumulate Beryllium-10 within any quartz hidden inside at a rate of about five atoms per gram per year. This can increase with elevation and latitude but is a good rule of thumb.

This means that the faster the rock moves from two meters below the surface, to the surface, the less Beryllium-10 it will contain within any quartz simply because it has had less time to accumulate.

If the rock takes a lot longer to come to the surface the opposite effect occurs. So if a quartz sample has a high proportion of Beryllium-10 you could reasonably conclude a slow erosion rate, and vice versa.

Amanda’s team will also look for and measure fallout radionuclides (FRNs) using the Cosmogenic Nuclide Laboratory at the University of Vermont. Two of the three types of FRNs are natural, the other is not.

Caesium-137 is associated with nuclear weapons tests and nuclear fallout from accidents such as Fukushima and Chernobyl. Beryllium-7 is a naturally occurring radionuclide that also falls out of the sky and clings to the outside of rocks and becomes

ROSALIE RIVER

PAGUA RIVER

73 RIVER BLANC, A TRIBUTARY OF THE ROSEAU RIVER

WHITE RIVER AT VICTORIA FALLS

NATURE | TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH COMPLEMENTS EXPLORATION AND OBSERVATION

part of the soil particles that are also present from weathering. The third naturally occurring radionuclide is lead-210. All of these nuclides can be analysed to help determine how long sediment has been on the surface, and from this, erosion rates can be derived. In addition to sediment, the research team has also been collecting water samples for chemical analysis.

The background erosion rates and water analysis will provide a baseline against which future environmental measurements can be plotted.

Imagine a scenario where agriculture, deforestation (natural or man-made) or industrial activity, is visibly affecting our rivers. We would be able to measure and test sediment and water quality, compare the data against the baseline study, and then determine accurately if any of these events are creating pollution, erosion or soil loss on a level that should cause alarm. We sometimes hear people talking about how rivers have changed over their life time, that they are smaller or shallower than years

ago - well this kind of anecdotal evidence can be measured against science to determine what has actually been happening to both the rivers and the land in the interior.

Amanda does not expect to see anything other than natural causes of upstream erosion because we do not currently have large scale agriculture, development or deforestation, and the erosion rates derived from the watershed sediment sampling and radionuclide testing ought to correlate to the number of landslides that occurred during extreme weather events such as tropical storm Erika in 2015.

The sampling and analysis that Amanda and her team are undertaking is complex and difficult for non academics to properly understand, but we can still use the results of her work, in combination with other scientific research and our own exploration and observation, to better understand our island’s vast network of enigmatic rivers, river landscapes and wildlife.

74

BELLE FILLE RIVER EN ROUTE TO CASTLE BRUCE

www.dominicatraveller.com

LAYOU RIVER NEAR BELLS

75

LAMOTHE RIVER FALLS ABOVE THE VILLAGE OF COTTAGE

NATURE | TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

Manicou River Portsmouth

Fully solar-powered and set amid ten acres of forested hillside overlooking Douglas Bay and the Cabrits National Park, Manicou River’s cottages, bar and bistro make for an authentic, comfortable and extremely scenic island vacation.

Each of the cottages has a double bed, bathroom, kitchen and a deck with panoramic views that are certainly among the best on the island. The opensided bar and bistro combines rustic and natural with style and attention to detail, serving a set menu of French Caribbean dishes. Seating is limited and meals are by reservation only so please call ahead.

Or just turn up for a drink and sample the much sought after Manicou River fruit infused rum - the selection is varied, the taste delicious and smooth.

Just like the cottages, the restaurant views are jawdroppingly awesome.

T: (767) 616 9343

E:

info@manicouriver.com

www.manicouriver.com

FB: Manicou River 76

Le Petit Paris Bakery

Picard (opposite Ross University) Roseau (next to Alliance Francaise) Authentic and irresistible, the daily fresh baguettes, breads, croissants, fruit tarts, eclairs and creamy cakes baked at Le Petit Paris are out of this world.

And if you don’t have a sweet tooth, no worries; try the delicious quiches, baguette sandwiches, stuffed croissants, fresh salads, or 12-inch pizzas instead!

There are lots to choose from and everything is carefully prepared with high quality ingredients and an unmistakable hint of France.

Le Petit Paris Bakery is located on the main boulevard in Picard, opposite Ross University, and also in Roseau, next door to the Alliance Francaise at the rear of the Botanic Gardens.

Both locations have outside dining and are open from 8am to 6pm Monday to Friday. Le Petit Paris in Roseau opens until 9pm on Fridays for Pizza Party (buy 1 pizza, get a free glass of wine; buy 3 pizzas, get a full bottle !). Bienvenue.

Welcome to Le Petit Paris Bakery.

Roseau T: 317 3333 FB: Le Petit Paris Roseau Picard T: 275 7777 FB: Le Petit Paris Picard www.dominicatraveller.com

VILLA VISTA

Hodges Bay, Calibishie Villa Vista is a very private, peaceful and relaxing three-bedroom retreat nestled above the tranquil Hodges Bay, near the coastal village of Calibishie.

With terracotta roof tiles, hardwood jalousie windows and shutters, and Middle Eastern stone floors, this stylish villa is an eclectic fusion of Mediterranean and Caribbean. From the spacious verandas there are unrestricted views of Hodges Bay, the Atlantic Ocean, and the volcanic red rock coastline.

The upper floor is dominated by the master suite with a king-sized bed, spacious wet room with toilet, wash basin and shower, a large private veranda and a spa room with Jacuzzi. The ground floor has two bedrooms, a shared bathroom, fully equipped kitchen and dining area, laundry, powder room, and a spacious veranda with an infinity pool.

As for the vista, well come and see for yourself ....

T: (767) 235 5760 / 275 1010

E:

villavistadominica@yahoo.com

www.villavistadominica.com

77

Veranda View Guest House Calibishie

Colourful and artistically designed three bedroom waterfront accommodation on the main road in Calibishie, Veranda View Guest House offers affordable comfort in a tranquil environment, with a cooling breeze and the soft music of the sea as constant companions. Guests can quite literally step from Veranda View into the clear, calm and shallow water that is protected by an inshore reef.

Owner and host, Hermien, is a talented painter (you can buy her art) and a great cook. She specialises in home-made European and Creole dishes (guests only by request), especially fish, which is bought daily from local fishermen.

After a day exploring the island, relax in a hammock on your own private veranda and enjoy panoramic views of the bay. Veranda View Guest House is located just 20 minutes from Portsmouth and the airport.

T: (767) 445 8900

E:

booking@verandaviewdominica.com

www.verandaviewdominica.com

FB: Veranda View Dominica

Pointe Baptiste Estate Chocolate Pointe Baptiste, Calibishie

The colourful chocolate factory at historic Pointe Baptiste Estate is where you will find some of the nature island’s most delicious chocolate being made.

Created and managed by estate owner and chocolatier, Alan Napier, the factory produces delicious nibs, truffles and bars in various strengths and flavours including 80% cocoa, mint, tangerine, ginger and many others. All of the chocolate made here is produced from Dominica’s exquisite fine flavour cocoa.

You will find Pointe Baptiste Estate Chocolate for sale all around the island but if you want to buy it at source and even see how it is made, you are welcome to call in at the chocolate factory for a tasting and a tour.

Pointe Baptiste is located close to the village of Calibishie and the awesome red rock coastline.

T: (767) 225 5378

E:

chocolate@pointebaptiste.com

www.pointebaptiste.com

78

Coral Reef Shopping CentRE Calibishie

Located on the main street in Calibishie, Coral Reef Shopping Centre is your one-stop shop for food, drink and essential supplies when visiting and exploring the beautiful north east of Dominica.

If you are holiday-making in one of Calibishie’s fabulous villas or self-catering apartments, look no further than Coral Reef for all your essential needs, food, drink, toiletries and household goods.

We stock fresh and frozen meats, a selection of dairy products, freshly harvested vegetables, household supplies, and a good selection of wines, beers, spirits, mixers, soft drinks and juices. We have daily fresh bread and we even have a selection of light bites, snacks, cakes and pastries.

Our staff are welcoming and helpful, and our service is second to none. Drop in and see for yourself.

Coral Reef Shopping Centre has all you need.

T: (767) 445 7432 www.dominicatraveller.com

Coral Reef Restaurant & Bar Calibishie

One of Dominica’s least visible restaurants, yet one that is certainly worth seeking out, Coral Reef Restaurant & Bar is hidden behind the ‘one-stopshop’ Coral Reef Shopping Centre in the heart of main street in the popular and scenic coastal village of Calibishie.

Located right on the waterfront, with coconut palms and a sliver of powder-white sand, discovering Coral Reef Restaurant & Bar is both a surprise and a delight, like finding buried treasure, and the journey is just as rewarding.

Our tables are set along the open-sided deck and diners can enjoy a cooling breeze as well as great views of the Atlantic Ocean, the tranquil waters of the reef-protected bay, the volcanic islets, and the dramatic red rocks of nearby Pointe Baptiste. Our friendly staff are happy to serve a varied daily menu of local and international dishes that suits all budgets and tastes, and our restaurant is open every day from 8am to midnight, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. No reservations are necessary - just drop in and Coral Reef will always have something fresh for you to eat and drink. It’s always great tasting and equally great value.

Coral Reef also hosts occasional parties and events, and offers a very convenient take-out and catering service which is perfect if you are staying in one of Calibishie’s self-catering villas or apartments.

A hidden treasure and a very pleasant surprise, you will always receive a warm welcome at Coral Reef.

T: (767) 445 7432

79

www.dominicatraveller.com

Sisters Beach Bar, Restaurant & Lodge Picard

Nestled on the beach in Picard, enjoying romantic sunsets and wonderful views of the Caribbean Sea, Sisters Beach Bar & Restaurant serves a fusion of Creole and international lunches and dinners, specialising in freshly caught seafood. The lionfish and the mussels are particular favourites, but everything is genuinely good here. Even the pasta is home-made. The beach bar and restaurant is open for lunch and dinner daily, Monday through Saturday.

The six stone Sisters Lodges enjoy colourful tropical garden surroundings and are just a short walk to the sandy beach. Each has two double beds, kitchenette, living room, fans and insect screens.

Guests are welcome to pick ripe fruits. A wonderfully relaxed ambiance, very comfortable, good-value accommodation, and excellent cuisine, Sisters Beach Bar, Restaurant & Lodge is perfect for independent travellers exploring the north.

T: (767) 445 5211 / 235 5454

E: sistersbeachbarrestaurant@gmail.com FB: Sisters Beach Bar Restaurant & Lodge 81

Hideaways OF TiBay Heights Tibay, Portsmouth

Enjoy the spectacular sea view from the spacious verandas of our uniquely handcrafted, artisan cottages. Relax and reconnect with nature in our quiet family-owned retreat, surrounded by bird song and cool mountain breezes. Hideaways is a hillside sanctuary, conveniently located near the Syndicate Nature Trail, Morne Diablotin National Park and the natural attractions, restaurants and beaches of the Portsmouth and Picard area.

Experience Hideaway’s top-notch personal service and dedicated island hospitality in two private and comfortable treehouse cottages, each with en suite bathroom and fully equipped kitchenette. Guests can also savour the flavours of the nature island with private dining under the pergola.

We are happy to arrange fun and exciting island excursions with experienced guides. Your perfect getaway is our top priority.

T: (767) 285 7480

E:

jkscheffey@gmail.com

www.hideawaysdominica.com

FB: Hideaways

of

Tibay Heights

Villa Passiflora & The Cottage at Villa Passiflora Calibishie

THE VILLA Enjoying panoramic ocean vistas, Villa Passiflora is one of Dominica’s most exquisite accommodation options. Majestically situated between Pointe Baptiste and Hodges Bay, the villa combines elegance and comfort in exceptional fashion. The open design, in which indoors and outdoors merge, ensures cooling breezes and breathtaking views throughout. Refresh in our pool, enjoy relaxing on our shaded verandas, or prepare island meals in our spacious kitchen (or let our staff cook for you). With three large bedrooms, Villa Passiflora is the perfect spot for an unforgettable Caribbean vacation for your family or group of friends.

THE COTTAGE Nestled within coastal woodland and enjoying fine ocean views and a cooling breeze, our one bedroom cottage is simply beautiful. Spacious yet at the same time intimate, the cottage has an open plan lounge and kitchen, a large bathroom and verandas. With artistic use of local woods, louvre windows you can simply throw open, and a peaceful and secure environment, the self-catering cottage is a haven for singles, couples or parents travelling with one child.

82

A five minute stroll down a well-used path brings you to one of the island’s finest beaches. Just twenty minutes from the airport, our villa and cottage are superb places to relax, unwind and enjoy the nature island to its fullest.

USA T: (423) 718 1842 DOM T: (767) 245 3468

E:

info@villapassiflora.com

www.villapassiflora.com

FB: Villa Passiflora Dominica

www.dominicatraveller.com

Roots Jungle Retreat

Pagua Hills, Northern Forest Reserve Roots Jungle Retreat offers a real jungle experience.

Located deep within the Northern Forest Reserve, discover an amazing place of unspoiled rainforest surrounded by Dominica’s mountains. Stay in one of five comfortable cabins and enjoy the sounds of the night-time jungle from your private terrace.

Ranked number one specialty lodge in the area by TripAdvisor, the hotel also features a natural pool, jungle trails and a restaurant where delicious meals are prepared by the owner herself.

T: (767) 276 1473 / 295 6602

E:

rootsjungleretreat@gmail.com

www.rootsjungleretreat.com

FB: Roots Jungle Retreat

Aywasi Kalinago Retreat Thundering Bay, Kalinago Territory

Enjoy the sounds of nature in our luxurious eco cottages or garden ajoupas, reflecting the best of traditional Kalinago craftsmanship. Located in the heart of the world’s only Kalinago Reservation, the Aywasi Retreat beckons writers, hikers, artists, families, romantic couples, independent travellers and anthropologists in search of a truly authentic indigenous Caribbean experience. Feel the energy, activate your inner warrior and rejuvenate your spirit in our enchanting retreat.

T: (767) 235 4455

E:

info@aywasiretreat.com

www.aywasiretreat.com

FB: Aywasi Kalinago Retreat

Calibishie Cove is nestled 80 feet above the pristine Hodges Bay Beach. A private relaxed beach eco-hideaway, our luxurious amenities and personal service fuse seamlessly to give our guests the ultimate Dominica island experience. We have a large yoga pavilion and we can accommodate weddings and special events.

To find out more, please visit www.calibishiecove.com or call us on (+1767) 295 9172 or 245 5231.

VOTED #5 BEST BEACH RESORTS

BY ISLANDS MAGAZINE READERS

83

One Breath, No Tank The philosophy and practice of freediving Words and topside photography Paul Crask Underwater photographs of Morgan Bourc’his Franck Seguin

84

Twenty years ago, Jeff Coulais travelled to Dominica and told himself that one day he would like to return and open a freediving or surf school here.

Together with his partner, Audrey Palma, he has recently launched Freediving Dominica on the Cachacrou isthmus at Scotts Head.

www.dominicatraveller.com

JOURNEY

85

JOURNEY | ONE BREATH, NO TANK

For Jeff, freediving is more than just a sport, it is also a holistic state of mind and body that embraces the spirit and ecology of land and water.

“The difference between teaching a few quick and easy techniques and coaching people to freedive in a holistic way, is like the difference between fast food and haute cuisine,” Jeff tells me. “Anyone can grill a burger”.

86

We are sitting on the floor of the wooden beach hut that he built with the help of some old friends from France and some new ones from Dominica.

Everything has its place. Fins, masks, snorkels, lines, buoyancy aids, rescue raft – all are stowed with fastidious attention to detail. Jeff seems a little agitated, and as we talk I sense that both he and Audrey are wound a little tight this morning.

The reason is because world freediving champion Morgan Bourc’his is here this month to practice for the prestigious Vertical Blue event in the Bahamas, and also to teach some freediving classes. It’s a big deal for the couple and they want everything to go without a hitch. Creating their new venture, Freediving Dominica, has been testing.

Jeff Coulais grew up in France and got into the sport of freediving as a teenager. Always at home in water, he was an accomplished swimmer and a frequent winner of competitions. Looking for another challenge, he became inspired by the philosophy and achievements of Jacques Mayol who, in 1976, was the first known freediver to descend to 100 metres. Mayol had a love for the ocean (his life was the inspiration for the 1988 Luc Besson film, The Big Blue) and his diving philosophy was for him to reach a state of mind based on relaxation and yoga with which he could then achieve apnea – the suspension of breathing. Mayol also had an attachment to dolphins, and his book The Dolphin Within Man discusses how humans, who evolved in water, might reawaken dormant mental and physical faculties to rediscover the kind of relationship with the ocean that a dolphin enjoys.

The Big Blue inspired others too, generating a burst of interest in freediving. In 1992, the International Association for the Development of Apnea (AIDA) was formed to bring freedivers together, to exchange ideas and devise safety guidelines, and to create an organisation that could oversee standards, competitions and record attempts. Three years later www.dominicatraveller.com

in 1995, after being on the board of AIDA since its formation, Jeff opened his own school in Montpelier on the south coast of France. Océanide was one of the first freediving institutions in the world.

A pioneer of modern freediving, Jeff wanted to teach according to his values and experiences, drawing directly from what he had learned and discovered personally, as well as from adopting the holistic approach of Mayol, including the philosophy and practice of yoga. Looking back, Jeff says that he was before his time. Although he trained several world champions, he believes most people were not ready to learn properly in those days – they just wanted to master and take away the bare essentials, to get into the water and dive deep and fast. That still happens nowadays with some freediving teachers and their students, but Jeff feels that more people are conscious of the blue planet and ready to make the time and effort to learn and absorb the sport in its physical and spiritual entirety.

In 1997 Jeff became the world record holder for the dynamic pool discipline when he swam underwater on one breath for 150 metres. That’s the length of three Olympic swimming pools, or six regular municipal pools. He has also made descents to 80 metres.

Audrey grew up in the water, sitting at the bottom of swimming pools for fun, and freediving with spear fishermen in New Caledonia. Travelling with her military family she also went to Tahiti where she spent time playing around underwater with elite troops. They were impressed by how long she could hold her breath and encouraged her to take freediving lessons. After training in New Caledonia, she eventually found herself in the south of France, where she met Jeff.

Audrey has held her breath underwater for 6 minutes and 36 seconds, and she has almost reached 150 metres in the dynamic pool discipline.

“Imagine your life is like a music score,” says Audrey, standing up to draw on the classroom whiteboard. “These notes are the rhythm of your life, your breathing moments, and this here,” she draws

87

JOURNEY | ONE BREATH, NO TANK

88

www.dominicatraveller.com

89

The pause of apnea

gives you a moment of silence, to focus on life and forget everything else

90

a musical break, “this is where you pause. This is apnea. And then the music continues. Your breathing continues. Your life continues. But it is different now.

You have discovered more about yourself.”

Audrey and Jeff have also been doing some pro bono work with marine reserve junior wardens and fishermen of Soufriere and Scotts Head, teaching them first aid, lifesaving and rescue techniques.

“The pause of apnea gives you a moment of silence, to focus on life and forget everything else,” continues Jeff. “And in the water, where we originate as human beings, in weightless suspension of nothing but blue, there are no modern world distractions to pollute your mind or upset your body. You are in a different dimension, a different medium, a new world. And when you breathe again, you feel better. Your spirit is reborn.”

“I think we have been more accepted into the community because of the efforts we readily make,” says Audrey. “In fact the fishermen sometimes come and ask if we can go and help them to find fish pots that have detached from their lines and become lost.

And one day Jeff was a local hero when he freed up a seine net so they didn’t lose their big catch of fish.

It was nice that they came to ask us for help. It takes time and effort to build up that sort of trust.”

“And remember, the word spirit comes from the Latin spiritus, which means breath,” says Audrey. “And it is your breath that defines you as a living being.”

Most of the interest in freediving so far has been from travellers to the island and not from Dominicans themselves, but Jeff thinks patience and education provide the solution.

“But you have to learn how to breathe before you can learn how not to breathe,” says Jeff. “Being conscious of your breathing is also being conscious of living, of your life.”

We are politely interrupted by several young children from the village asking to borrow swimming masks.

It happens daily, and Audrey and Jeff give them out freely. It is one example of several where they have made successful inroads in their efforts to integrate with the local community.

“I think the most important thing now is education,” says Jeff. “If these children grow up with a good experience of playing in the water that they would not have had without these masks, then that’s a positive thing. As they grow older, perhaps they will become more conscious of the environment, of the blue planet. Maybe they will decide to get a job in conservation, marine ecology or watersports. Maybe they will become world champion freedivers.” www.dominicatraveller.com

“We are just beginning here and we know we can’t change the world overnight. Perhaps it is something for the next generation of Dominicans. If we can get the kids to love and enjoy their ocean then maybe they will reconnect somehow and want to do more.

The water will be here. We will be here. If we are patient and we keep trying I believe it will happen.”

I return a few days later. World champion, Morgan Bourc’his, will complete his freediving course with a demonstration swim down to 80 metres. He will do this on a single breath, and without fins to propel him. His personal best for a swimming dive like this is over 90 metres, but it is the start of the freediving season and he is just warming up for the big events such as Vertical Blue in the Bahamas and the World Championships in Roatan later in the year. Morgan is the only one who seems relaxed and is smiling this morning. He briefs his students on his dive plan with brevity while they listen and look on in serious and

91

JOURNEY | ONE BREATH, NO TANK

concerned silence. Being relaxed is part of Morgan’s preparation for a dive like this. It helps him both mentally and physically. He tells me that when he is completely relaxed before a dive his body doesn’t feel the pressure at depth.

Staff and students accompany Morgan out into Soufriere Bay where an 80 metre weighted line is lowered from a safety raft. His swimming and equalisation techniques complement both his trim physique and his mental strength. They set him apart.

It takes him around 90 seconds to swim down to the weight and another 90 seconds to swim back to the surface, successfully completing his 80 metre dive.

Back on the beach he tells me that sunlight penetrated the depths so that it was not dark down there at all. It was deep blue, and the visibility was clear enough for him to be able to see the sandy, lifeless bottom of the bay.

“I pause there for a few seconds to enjoy the moment before I swim back up,” he says, still smiling. “It is an incredible feeling being down there all alone, knowing that I am living on just one breath, and that for my life to continue I have to swim 80 metres all the way back to the surface.”

92

I ask him how freediving in Soufriere Bay compares with other places in the world and he tells me that having such deep water close to the shore, very little surface chop and current, and beautiful scenery all around, it is a perfect location for the sport.

Audrey and Jeff are relieved that everything has gone to plan and their smiles have returned. After today they will be closing up the school until the beginning of the new season so that they can go back to the south of France to manage Océanide during the summer. Their ultimate ambition is to move here, and I feel they have made a very good start.

But for now they are taking a short pause before the rhythm of freediving and their new life in Dominica continues.

Freediving Dominica offers freediving, rescue, lifesaving and yoga training as well as snorkelling equipment and paddleboard rental. For more information go to www.freedivingdominica.com For information on Morgan Bourc’his go to www.morganbourchis.com Award-winning Franck Seguin is one of the world’s great sports photographers and works for L’Equipe in France. www.dominicatraveller.com

93

SUSTAINABLE journeys Travelling to work AND Working to travel Words and photography Paul Crask

Volunteering abroad is both an economical and adventurous way to travel. And now it is catching on here. I met up with some of these independent travellers as well as the people hosting them and learned that alternative travel goes hand-in-hand with alternative living in a country that is ideal for creative thinkers and free spirits. I also discovered that this model of exchange, development and sustainability extends beyond travel, and is a framework for learning and living that could just as easily be adopted by open-minded and progressive nature-islanders.

94

EDEN HEIGHTS www.dominicatraveller.com

95

SIAN

SARAH

96

www.dominicatraveller.com

Sarah is from Switzerland. She is twenty years old and has been travelling independently for two years. Her aim is to make it all the way around the world without money. She hitchhiked across Europe and, as a practicing freeganist, engages in urban and wild foraging for food. She traded working as a nanny for an Atlantic sailboat crossing and now does the same in exchange for vegan meals and basic accommodation in Dominica. By the time she leaves for her next destination, she hopes to have hiked the whole of the Waitukubuli National Trail and explored much of the island.

“Travelling in this way makes me strong in both body and spirit,” she says. “I enjoy the wild and I love new adventures. It is also a great way for me to build on my experience of alternative ways of living.”

Lærki is from Denmark. The curriculum of the organic farming school where she studies requires 20% classroom time and 80% practical experience. She spent eight months in South America, some of it at a permaculture forum in Ecuador, some of it living with a tribe in Peru where she was enthralled by the relationship of the people with the plants in their environment, and how everyone lived as a

connected community where helping each other was an intrinsic part of the culture. She travelled to Tanzania and worked on a number of local farms that grew coffee and bananas before spending two months living with a tribe where she learned Swahili and traditional dance. She is in Dominica to learn about medicinal plants. But also to play basketball.

“I love basketball. I brought my ball with me and I go and challenge the tough ghetto boys in Roseau,” she grins. “I usually beat them. They even asked me if I would coach them. But I like to talk with them. It’s important to engage with everyone when you travel, and standing up to macho men is a good learning experience for me.”

Sarah and Lærki are independent travellers who offer their work skills and experience in exchange for bed and board. Hosting them in Dominica is Sian, owner of EDEN HEIGHTS, a fledgling ‘family tree, homesteading and permaculture research and development institute’ near Castle Bruce.

Sian quit an office job in England, hitchhiked across Europe and then sailed on a steel hull Chinese Junk across the Atlantic from Portugal to Cuba. From there

LÆRKI

JOURNEY | SUSTAINABLE JOURNEYS

she travelled to Colombia, Curacao and St Martin, before hitching another sailboat ride to Dominica.

She worked for the Dominica Youth Business Trust for a couple of years before purchasing some land and beginning an alternative lifestyle that embraces community living, homesteading, and permaculture.

“We are experimenting with different technologies and approaches for growing food, creating energy and recycling waste so that we can be as selfsufficient as possible,” she explains. “Some of our recycled materials can even be used to feed a 3D printer so that we can replace things that break.”

Eden Heights is a 2.8 acre tract of sloping land that is bounded by a river and enjoys unrestricted views of St David’s Bay. Sian rents out wooden cabins to budget travellers but her main interest is inviting people with work skills that will help to develop her vision in exchange for offering them a place to sleep, three meals a day, and the flexibility to take time off to explore and enjoy the island.

98

Papillon grew up in Paris, Martinique and the US, and was a hip-hop artist before he trained in California to become a permaculture specialist. He came to Dominica as a traveller and then returned to be a part of the Eden Heights community. His skills and experience, combined with an innate love for the natural environment and indigenous bushcrafts, have helped Sian to develop her vision. Fatou is Papillon’s wife. She is from Madagascar and is a yoga teacher. They have two children and it is their aim to raise them in a natural environment where they can learn useful life skills such as how to grow food and build things, and how to love and help others.

Sian is extremely keen on sharing her Eden Heights vision, experience and knowledge with the local community. Her ambition is to create and develop an innovative enterprise called The Family Tree.

“I want to build a community here, but I also want to reach out to the extended Dominica community, to show them what we are trying to do, and how looking at and tackling challenges in different ways can be rewarding and practical. It is my hope to share permaculture practices in particular. I want to be able to say ‘hey, come look at what we’re doing. We’re growing all these things and we’re not working as hard as you.’ Imagine that. Breaking with the traditional way of doing things and embracing something new like permaculture could be hugely beneficial to Dominica. We are not building something that is just for the tourism sector. Our aim is to focus first and foremost on the local community, to reach out to anyone with an open mind and a www.dominicatraveller.com

willingness to participate and share knowledge, skills and experience.”

feed myself from what is growing around. Making calabash bowls was also great fun.”

BEYOND VITALITY is an innovative nature camp in the Fond Melle area, not far from Eden Heights. Owners and managers Sara and Stephan rent out cabins for most of the year, but they also offer volunteer programmes for young working travellers. Sara is a holistic food nutritionist and fitness instructor and so their programmes often have food and exercise as core components. Although they may specify some of the skills they would like their volunteers to have, many are gap year or college students who are away from familiar surroundings for the first time.

Courtney is a psychology student from Vermont who loved being in the wilderness so much she has even built her own miniature moveable home from wood and a salvaged recreational vehicle.

When I visit, Stephan is waist deep in wild bush with a chainsaw. He and a couple of volunteers are in the process of building a fenced compound for Beyond Vitality’s new goats.

One volunteer, Jana, has travelled from Switzerland.

She is on a gap year and will return to pick up studies in medicine. It is her first time in the Caribbean.

“When I first arrived here, I learned how to open coconuts,” she says. “Then the other day we were at the beach feeling thirsty so I put this new knowledge to good use. I like the experience of learning to

“I like to travel and explore, but I also enjoy giving back to others. It’s the reason why I study psychology and why I like to engage in volunteer programmes.

It’s also a great opportunity to learn while exploring a beautiful new place like Dominica.”

In addition to benefitting from the mutual exchange of skills and labour for travel and experience, Sara says that the volunteer programmes and internships that are hosted by Beyond Vitality also aim to get the volunteers to challenge themselves to do things they wouldn’t do normally, in an environment that is very different from their home.

“Dominica provides an opportunity for our volunteers to fully immerse themselves in nature, to learn about nutrition and wellness, to practice natural movement and to break away from doing too much sitting, by climbing, hiking, running, chopping and throwing.

Hiking in particular introduces a certain degree of 99

JOURNEY | SUSTAINABLE JOURNEYS

hormesis - exposing the body to a bit of stress to ultimately make it stronger.”

Dawn is the owner and manager of D-SMART FARM ECOBALANCE CAMPGROUND in the hamlet of Corona near Pont Casse.

digging for gold. The response from local schools has been amazing. They have even designed a rabbit mascot for the farm.”

AND

College students of agriculture also come to the farm as part of their internships.

She was trained in permaculture design in Trinidad and she practices sustainable living and organic farming. Her whole family is very involved in the enterprise, trying to make use of natural resources as much as possible. As well as engaging in recycling and producing composting teas from plants and fish waste, water is brought to the farm from a nearby river using an impressive home-made ram pump. But the most important part of this way of living for Dawn has been the engagement of young Dominicans.

“For us, this is where the idea of work exchange came from,” she says. “No money was exchanged during those college internships and it led me to take a look at volunteering programmes for travellers from overseas. But we also target youth groups here and it has become very popular. Once people have experienced camping in the forest and working the land, many get hooked on it. I have had Dominicans come to stay here in the campground in exchange for a bit of painting, plumbing and carpentry.”

School children are often brought to the farm and campground on outings and special programmes where Dawn attempts to destigmatise agriculture and living off the land by demonstrating how fun, interesting and important is it to be able to care for the earth as well as to know how to live from it.

Global travellers have also helped Dawn develop her farm and campground. Most tend to be budget travellers looking for a different experience. Some bring specific skills such as farming, carpentry, or other aspects of permaculture. She has even had lumberjacks stay and help with repairs and cabin enhancements.

“Students really love coming here,” she beams.

“There is a real vibe of fun and learning. Once when they were digging for potatoes it was as if they were 100 DAWN

www.dominicatraveller.com

“Next on my list is solar energy for the house and a tree house for the campground,” she smiles.

Permaculture

Permaculture is the conscious design and maintenance of agriculturally productive systems which have the diversity, stability, and resilience of natural ecosystems. It is the harmonious integration of the landscape with people providing their food, energy, shelter and other material and non-material needs in a sustainable way.

Freeganism

Freeganism is a lifestyle philosophy focused on adopting alternative means to satisfy needs in order to minimise dependence on what is termed the “conventional economy.� To satisfy their needs, freegans typically scavenge for discarded items, barter or create their own goods. Common activities include dumpster diving for food and goods, hitchhiking for transportation and squatting or camping for housing.

Homesteading

Homesteading is a lifestyle of self-sufficiency often characterised by small scale subsistence farming, home preservation of foodstuffs, small scale production of textiles, clothing, agri-products and craftwork for household use or sale.

Volunteer PROGRAMMES

Volunteering abroad is a great way for travellers to be able to explore the world while at the same time giving a little back to the places they visit, especially communities and environments in need of both skilled and unskilled workers. By immersing yourself in the local community where your volunteer abroad programme is located, you experience a world on a level that is not possible when just travelling as a tourist.

Volunteers usually exchange skills and labour for accommodation, meals, and some free time to explore.

HoRMESIS

Hormesis is a biological phenomenon whereby a healthy beneficial effect results from exposure to low doses of an agent that is otherwise unhealthy when given at extremely high doses.

RAM PUMP

A ram pump needs no external source of power. It is driven by the force of moving water and has only two moving parts. It uses the momentum of a large amount of moving water to pump a relatively small amount of water uphill. If you can pump the water to a reservoir tank above your home, then gravity will do the rest.

WWOOFING AND MORE

World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms www.wwoof.net www.wwoofinternational.org www.workaway.info www.helpx.net www.worldpackers.com www.helpstay.com

CONNECT

EDEN HEIGHTS: www.thefamilytree.life; FB Eden Heights Dominica BEYOND VITALITY: www.beyondvitality.com; FB beyondvitality D-SMART FARM: FB D-SmartFarm JOURNEY | SUSTAINABLE JOURNEYS

101

A WALK TO THE SEA HIKING from LAUDAT TO CASTLE BRUCE Words and photography Paul Crask

102

It was a bright and fresh morning in April when I began my walk to the sea. My plan was to follow Wai’tukubuli National Trail segments four and five from the high mountain village of Laudat to the Atlantic Ocean at Castle Bruce.

The Laudat region is where hikers can find a number of trailheads including the Boiling Lake, the Freshwater Lake, Chemin L’Etang, Boeri Lake and Middleham Falls. My route would take me past the latter before turning north through several miles of rainforest wilderness and emerging at Pont Casse. From there I would head east through wet forest along a former Kalinago and Maroon trace, passing the Emerald Pool, crossing rivers, and cutting through banana plantations before reaching the sea.

The track to the Middleham Falls from Laudat is well beaten. It is a popular low-difficulty half-day hike for both independent travellers and adventurous cruise ship tourists. It begins with a small river crossing and then a hill climb, occasionally steep, usually wet, and a good introduction to first-time Dominica hiking. As I was early, it was just me and the birds.

At the top of the climb is a plateau where the trail meanders through rainforest until it reaches a junction. To the left is the short but steep downhill trail to the waterfall, straight ahead is the track to Cochrane, and to the right is the continuation of Wai’tukubuli National Trail segment four to Sylvania and Pont Casse. I decided on a short diversion to the Middleham Falls before continuing my journey east. www.dominicatraveller.com

MIDDLEHAM FALLS

103

JOURNEY | A WALK TO THE SEA

104

www.dominicatraveller.com

105

The Middleham Falls changes with the weather.

In periods of heavy rain it is a monster, thundering down into the deep pool with fierce volumes of water that make it almost inaccessible. Today it was much more subdued; sleepy and beautiful in the mist and shade of cliff and rainforest vegetation before the sun had climbed high enough to illuminate it.

Back at the junction I set off on the track to Sylvania and Pont Casse. This route was here before it became a National Trail segment, regularly used by travellers of all kinds, from Kalinago, to Maroons (runaway enslaved Africans), to hunters and traders.

It is one of the loveliest rainforest tracks on the island and I never tire of it. Poor drainage in low-lying areas make it occasionally swampy but the dense forest and sparkling rivers transport you to another time. This is how the world looked before people, cars and concrete; it is breathtaking and precious.

The trail undulates but climbs gently to a ridge, crossing several rivers and streams en route. I hear parrots squawking - probably jacos - and the lonesome song of the rufous-throated solitaire, known in these parts as the mountain whistler, a constant companion to high forest walkers.

106

Huge gommier, chatanier, balata, bois diables and other magnificent trees fill my field of vision, beneath them, dense undergrowth, saplings fighting for light and space, epiphyte species hanging from trunks and branches like emerald jewellery, vines at full stretch like long slender tongues, lapping up the wetness of the mud and mulch, the natural compost that is broken down by hordes of insects and invertebrates, the food of the forest, along with rain which now begins to fall.

I walk on, descending to reach another junction.

To the left, a short track to Sylvania that was once an estate road. To the right, the trail climbs up and then down a steep ridge and river gorge that stand between me and Pont Casse.

Hiking Dominica is all about being able to deal with and read the terrain, especially if the way ahead is unclear as it can be in this area. Steep ridge climbs are often tricky to follow as fallen leaves, branches and erosion from heavy rains can obscure the trail so, even with prior experience of this route, I regularly pause to look ahead and behind, to gather breath and strength, and to make sure I am still on track.

Over the other side of the rocky ridge, the decent is unforgiving and poorly placed ropes do little to help. But the gorge and bridge are now in sight and I know that Pont Casse is almost within reach.

www.dominicatraveller.com

It is mid afternoon when I reach the end of segment four and I decide to push on for a couple more hours into segment five before thinking about where to spend the night. The track from Pont Casse past the National Trail office is flat and extremely wet. Fallen trees cross the trail making progress feel rather more like steeplechasing than hiking and the ground is often so soupy I am in danger of losing a shoe.

Sometimes both of them.

The trail is now heading eastwards and the shadows are lengthening as the sun, now behind me, begins to sink. At what I believe to be the Laurent River, a tributary of the Warner and then finally the Layou River, I decide to make camp for the night. I carry a Hennessy Hammock, not a tent. The problem with tents is that you need fairly flat and even ground, also not too wet. Such a thing is not easy to locate in Dominica; almost as hard to find as a hikers’ lodge.

A modern hammock such as mine keeps me off the ground in the forest, it has mosquito netting and a rain tarp to keep me dry when the inevitable night rains begin to fall. It takes no more than ten minutes to set up and all I need are two trees. When it is done, I strip out of my wet clothes and bathe in the river as the day begins to fade away. I put on my dry set of clothes and slip into the hammock. Darkness falls.

The forest is loud at night and if you concentrate you can pick out the individual calls and songs of frogs, crickets and other nocturnal creatures. Squadrons of fireflies dance around the undergrowth and I hear the wing flutter of bats overhead. I imagine the whole forest moving, teeming with life obscured by night. There is little else for me to do but watch and listen as I lie there, tempering my imagination, and waiting for sleep to come.

At the crack of dawn I break camp and am quickly back on the trail. It is not long before I reach the Emerald Pool. Fortunately the cruise ship season has passed and the only people here are local children enjoying what is, for a while at least, all theirs. The Emerald Pool is one of several accessible natural sights that is often viewed as a place for tourists rather than something that is first and foremost for Dominicans. Seeing local kids splashing around is heartwarming.

Beyond the Emerald Pool, the trail meets the road before heading steeply down to the junction of the L’Or and Belle Fille rivers. The Belle Fille is an extension of the Fond Figue which begins life on the slopes of Morne Negres Marrons. The Fond Figue, like the River Blanc in the Roseau Valley, has stretches of volcanic activity in the form of fumaroles.

EMERALD POOL

107

Across the L’Or bridge, the trail rises sharply and is soon high above the Belle Fille River. A narrow track around a rock face has either eroded or simply fallen away, the mud is sodden and the path no more than a foot wide. I edge my way gingerly along this disappearing ledge until it finally broadens and descends to a wider path running alongside the river.

This is a pleasant riverside walk. The sun is up but the river is keeping the air cool, making it comfortable.

The trail moves away from the bank for a while and into wet forest. The path becomes waterlogged and my feet sink with loud squelches.

Back at the river again, the track ends at what remains of a suspension bridge that spanned the Belle Fille before flash flooding during the passing of tropical storm Erika in 2015 washed it away.

Although broad, for the most part the river is shallow and wading across is thankfully uneventful.

A short walk along the perimeter of domestic gardens and farmland brings me back up to the main road again. The combination of no cover and tarmac makes the journey hot and I curse at the lengthy road sections hikers are forced along on this segment of the trail. After a couple of curves, I come 108

www.dominicatraveller.com

to the ‘Castle Bruce stretch’, one of the straightest sections of road on the island. Nice for cars, not so much for walkers.

The final leg of this walk takes me off the road and into bush. Now rather overgrown wheel tracks, this route used to be the main road to the coast. It passes through what were once thriving banana and plantain farms but which are now mostly abandoned to tangles of weeds, vines and grasses, all expanding their empire and gradually erasing any trace of agricultural activity save for a few halfderelict buildings and packing sheds. A few tethered goats and passionfruit vines are the only evidence that anyone still comes here.

With the smell and sound of the Atlantic Ocean now noticeable in the still mid-day air, I feel the end of my journey is imminent. Pushing my way through tall grass, where the trail has all but disappeared, I cross a couple of narrow streams and emerge at a paved road - the east coast route from Castle Bruce down to Petite Soufriere. In front of me is the ocean.

I stroll along the flotsam and jetsam strewn beach of St David’s Bay to the mouth of the Belle Fille River where a cool and welcoming brackish water lagoon provides the perfect end to my trans-island walk.

109

JOURNEY | A WALK TO THE SEA

LOVE NATURE 110

ecotherapy, rewilding, forest bathing

www.liveyournature.com

www.dominicatraveller.com

111

112

www.dominicatraveller.com

ALDive

scuba diving, snorkeling, whale watching mooring & marine services, island tours PADI, NAUI, Universal

Loubiere Highway, south of Roseau (+1 767) 440 3483 / 275 3483

e: aldive.watersports@gmail.com www.aldive.com aldivedominica

T: (767) 235 4850 / 448 1660 INFO@KHATTS.COM WWW.KHATTSTOURS.COM 113

Health Coaching Customised to work for you 路Yoga & Mindfulness 路Stress Release 路Motivation Techniques 路Recipes & Meal Planning www.AlivewithElise.com ejohnstonagar@gmail.com Skype: elise.maurice.agar

767-315-0915 Box 61,Roseau Dominica, W.I.

Safe Exclusive Tours . Hiking . Boiling Lake Transportation Available justgodominica.com 1- (767) 245 - 4328

www.dominicatraveller.com

Article Title or Section Title?

9