Inkwell ANNIE WRIGHT UPPER SCHOOL
Letter from the editors Since the beginning of 2020, the world has faced challenge after challenge in a never-ending assault of the phrase: “unprecedented times.” At the risk of sounding gratuitously inspirational and overly optimistic, we wanted to reflect a bit on the last two years. Soon after we pivoted to online in early 2020, Inkwell published a podcast on international students during covid that received attention from Best of SNO — Student News Online, the website that hosts anniewrightinkwell.org. Soon after, we released the COVID-19 Issue, which delved deeply into the virus we have now all become familiar with. In late 2020 and through 2021, Inkwell covered the US Election season, social justice movements and topics that affected the Annie Wright community. In the last two years, Inkwell members have received multiple Best of SNO recognitions and continued providing valuable journalism, all while moving from online to in-person and back. We’d like to keep bragging and say we didn’t hit any obstacles, but that’s not the truth. Everyone has struggled through COVID, and Inkwell had its fair share of ups and downs. Coming into this school year, we were looking at no more than three Inkwell personnel. However, not only did our new members save us from such a predicament, they have also risen to every challenge they faced and become invaluable members of this team. While this first print issue may be arriving later in the year than any other before it, we think it may just be worth the wait. On behalf of the entire Inkwell team, we are proud to present the Fashion Issue.
ANNIE WRIGHT UPPER SCHOOL
Inkwell January 2022
827 North Tacoma Avenue Tacoma, WA 98403 firstname.lastname@example.org | 253-272-2216 Issue 1 | Volume 63 CO-EDITORS-IN-CHIEF Sebastian Bush Sofia Guerra STAFF WRITERS Alexandra Fixler Brooklyn Nguyen Charles Stringfellow Erin Picken Kamiya Vitartas-Miller Zuri Smith Inkwell aims to provide the Annie Wright community with dependable and engaging coverage of school, community and global topics. Inkwell publishes articles of all genres weekly at anniewrightinkwell.org as well as four themed magazines during the course of the school year. Submissions of articles and photographs, correction requests and signed letters to the editor are most welcome. Please email the editors at email@example.com. All published submissions will receive credits and bylines. anniewrightinkwell@org
Sincerely, Sebastian Bush Sofia Guerra Co-Editors-In-Chief
Check us out at Inkwell Radio Follow us on Instagram @anniewrightinkwell
Contents Generational trends in fashion
Happy thought: tailoring
Cultural appropriation: where is the line?
How COVID-19 impacted the fashion
industry Dark academia
Uniforms: the good, the bad and the ugly
Unprecedented uniforms changes to
come The importance of recycling clothes
Where did my clothes come from?
Generational trends in fashion by Alexandra Fixler Fashion is almost as clear of an indicator of generation as a popular song. Ask anyone about daisy chain headbands, low-rise jeans or tie-dye, and they will tell you, “that was the boomers.” Every generation leaves its mark through fashion with iconic looks that, no matter how often they are revisited and reborn,will always belong to that generation. The silent generation left us with poodle skirts, button-up shirts and penny loafers. The traditionalists were well dressed if not impractically dressed. The baby boomers brought about a fashion revolution and, by the end of the ‘60s, brought more color and more skin. The bikini became acceptable beach attire, thanks to the boomers. So, thank a boomer the next time you go to the beach.
“the bikini became acceptable beach attire thanks to the boomers” That brings us to Gen X and the millennials. These two generations comprise the majority of our parents, teachers and coaches. Although they might not be ready to admit that they are done influencing fashion trends, there are some distinct fashion hallmarks that we can attribute to these two generations. Gen X’s fashion was heavily influenced by the music that defined their generation. According to Heather Fixler, a proud Gen Xer, “It didn’t matter if you lived in Ann Arbor, Mich. or Thousand Oaks, Calif., if you were in high school in the 90s you owned a pair of Doc Martens and at least three flannels, preferably from a thrift store, all thanks to the Seattle Grunge movement. The clothes weren’t flattering, but at least we were warm and comfortable.” Gen X’s iconic fashion could be summarized as efficiently as its music can be, “grunge.” 4
“if you were in high school in the 90s you owned a pair of doc martens and at least three flannels.” The millennial fashion statement is more difficult to pin down, perhaps because this generation is still busy influencing our attire. While they may not be done making their final mark on the fashion industry, there are still fashion staples we can credit to the millennials with that will go down as a part of their generational history. Some of those fashion treasures include athleisure, yoga pants (as actual pants) for any and every occasion, athletic shoes for every occasion, and gender-neutral fashion. Many thanks are owed to this generation for the comfort and sensibility they have brought to everyday fashion. That leaves us with Gen Z. Fashion through the ages has reflected each generation’s growth, their struggle and their grit. The fashion representing each generation shows each group’s unique personality and spirit in a way that only art can. What will Gen Z’s historic fashion statement be? What will be the art that represents our growth, our struggle, our grit and perseverance? That iconic image that is conjured when someone says, “Gen Z fashion?”
“What will gen z’s historic fashion statement be?” INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
Happy thought: Tailoring by Brooklyn Nguyen Are you interested in tailoring but don’t know which materials to use, which tools to buy and where to buy supplies? Mr. Sidman is here to answer your questions and share his experiences through an interview with Inkwell.
inspired by the styles of the 1920s and 1930s.” He also revealed his favorite garment saying, “The wonderful thing about a waistcoat is it has all these great pockets, and it’s so convenient, which is one of the reasons why I wear it.”
“I make my own clothes because I like them to be very durable,” expressed Mr. Sidman, who has 20 years of experience sewing: “I choose the fabrics, what they’re made of, and I choose long lasting fabrics, so that I’m not wasting materials and energy.” Additionally, he noted, “When you make your own clothes you have infinite numbers of options as to how they can fit, what they can look like, and what patterns you can use.”
Mr. Sidman stated why he thinks more people should make their own garments saying, “What I find most frustrating about [modern] garments is that in modern society, it is made to be disposable; it’s not meant to last a long time.” He also discussed the benefits of tailoring: “If people made their own clothes and saw how much work it is to do this, they wouldn’t treat clothing as a disposable thing—as something to wear for two to three months and get tired of and just give it away or throw it away.” According to Mr. Sidman, “One size does not fit all and this idea that you can buy clothing off the rack that will fit you is just preposterous...I think people wear clothes that really don’t fit them properly, but it’s what’s available on the rack. If you don’t know how to make them, then the expense of having somebody tailor your clothes is very expensive.”
When asked about what materials he uses, Mr. Sidman replied, “I use non-synthetic cotton and linen primarily. Not so much with silk.” He added the boutique he buys supplies from: “I end up buying a lot from stores far away, so Mood Fabrics in New York.” He then revealed his sewing method saying, “I use a fairly old electric sewing machine from about 1964.” “Some I taught myself; some I learned by experimentation,” Mr. Sidman explained. Furthermore, he stated who introduced him to tailoring: “My mother, who is still sewing, taught me many things long ago.” He described his style as “classic. It’s always functional. My clothing is mostly
INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
Lastly, Mr. Sidman shared his tips for those who are interested in crafting garments: “I wouldn’t go out and buy an expensive sewing machine unless you think you’re really interested.” And, his final piece of advice was to “Start with something simple, find a good pattern, follow the pattern, follow the instructions. Start simple and go from there.”
Mr. Sidman wears a homemeade suit to the Class of 2021 graduation ceremony. Photo courtesy of Vidigami.
Cultural a by Sofia Guerra On the surface, fashion and style seem like the perfect avenues for individuals to express themselves, make a statement or put out art into the world. The world of fashion appears fun, full of bright colors and designs. This might be why people often forget the responsibilities that come with the clothes they choose to wear. Like any other action, fashion choices carry the possibility to harm others. Cultural appropriation in fashion happens when a fashion choice, in one way or another, harms the group from which the fashion is inspired or taken from. A fashion choice becomes culturally appropriative in the following situations: The wearer is praised for wearing the piece, while members of the culture it originates from are discriminated against for it. A prominent example of this is dreadlocks and box braids. When worn by black individuals, these styles are often labeled as “low-class” and unattractive, causing further marginalization of the group. The issue in white or otherwise non-black individuals wearing these styles lies in the claim that somehow, the style is cool and attractive on them, but not on members of the black community. A similar issue arises in any situation in which the wearer claims to have originated or reinvented the piece or style, completely taking any credit from the culture it originates from. One example of this is the cat-eye makeup trend, which came to popularity on social media and fashion in recent years. This trend becomes harmful when taken to certain extremes: eyeliner designed to change the shape of one’s eye to make one appear more “Asian,” or taping back the skin next to 6 Hanboks, traditional Korean dress, are worn to celebrate New Years and other events. Photo by Jinny Hyun.
INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
ppropriation: Where is the line? the eyes to pull the corners of the eyes taut. Many people have called out this makeup style, citing how having smaller or more cut eyes has been a point of ridicule for many people of Asian descent.
has origins in both tea ceremony and as an expression of femininity in Chinese history. However, often times, qipaos are sexualized by foreign wearer with high slits, a form-fitting shape and a cutout at the sternum to expose a part of the The wearer does not understand the wearer’s chest. This popularized iteracultural significance of the piece. tion of the qipao in fashion is especially Oftentimes, people can take ceremoniproblematic, as it feeds into the view of al dress out of context. One prevalent Eastern Asian women as sexual objects example of this is Native American —as brides of war, as Hollywood seducheaddresses worn decoratively, when tresses, as exotic beauties of a submissive historically these pieces carry deep and nature. Similarly, Native American dress specific cultural significance. Appropriis also often highly sexualized. From muated headdresses often feature feathers sic festival attire to Halloween costume, and beaded headbands, blending all Native American dress is often sexualNative American cultures into one piece, ized through short and low-cut clothing neglecting the fact that different tribes decorated with stereotypically Native had distinct headdress designs. Further- American elements such as beads, feathmore, by wearing a headdress casually ers, jewelry and body paint. Native Amerand on a whim, the wearer is disrespectican women are 2.5 times more likely to ing the symbolism the headdress carries. be sexually assaulted than white women, Traditionally, headdresses were worn and this cultural appropriation furthers by the most powerful and accomplished this oppression. For example, Lizzo, the individuals in a tribe. Furthermore, a pop star, was criticized after the release lot of cultural importance goes into the of her Rolling Stones magazine cover making of any one headdress as a piece of shoot, in which she sported traditional art that is disregarded when the piece is body jewelry tied to South Asian culture mass-produced for commercial purposwhilst exposing a lot of skin and posing es. One recent example of cultural apsensually. She was criticized for appropropriation that falls under this category priating South Asian culture and further of wrongdoing was a Gucci runway show sexualizing traditional pieces like body in 2019, which showcased non-Sikh jewelry. observing models sporting blue Sikh turbans. Gucci faced harsh backlash for By purchasing or wearing the piece, taking this sacred article of clothing and the wearer is supporting a person/ promoting it as a simple accessory. industry/company that harms the culture/members of the culture the piece The way in which the piece is worn/ originates from. stylized sexualizes the culture or the This is true for any fashion item: supmembers of the culture. porting someone who actively causes One example of a highly sexualized piece harm to something or someone else of clothing is the qipao (and, due to the should be avoided, if fiscally possible. If blending of Asian cultures together, the one’s intent is to uplift and appreciate a áo dài and hanbok as well). The qipao culture, then buying a mass-produced INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
product manufactured by a large company has the exact opposite effect. Instead, one should try and buy from smaller artisans, particularly artisans who belong to the culture the piece one wants to purchase originates from. Not only does this promote authenticity, but also ensures that buying and wearing the piece is an exchange between cultures and not an exchange with a large company that does not pay due to tradition and origin. Of course, this list is not rigid nor exhaustive. Generally, however, if someone is wearing a piece or a style in an attempt to imitate their idea of a culture, or as any sort of costume, it is culturally appropriative and it is wrong. It is important that people understand that the style or dress they don for an aesthetic is part of the constant reality of a person of that culture. Taking one of the examples above, while someone who chooses to dress in a seductively-stylized qipao, the millions of Asian American women around the world don’t have the choice to similarly shed the hypersexuality projected onto them because of their ethnicity. However, this isn’t to say one can never wear something that has originated in or was popularized by another culture. Cultural sharing is actually quite important in an ever-intergrating society, as long as it is done with respect, tact, and true appreciation. For example, it is completely appropriate for someone to wear a piece gifted to them, or at event in which wearing the piece is custom. Culture is meant to be celebrated, and fashion can and should be used as an outlet for this celebration.
Students show off their style on a Civvies day. Photos by Nadia Hoffmann.
How Covid-19 Impacted the fashon industry by Kamiyah Vitartas-Miller COVID-19 has been around for two years, and the fashion industry has been impacted a lot. Trends, production and ideas have changed drastically throughout the two years. Inkwell asked Upper School to fill out a survey about their opinions on COVID-19 and how it changed their style, trends and their overall opinions on fashion. In the survey, we asked upper school students if they thought COVID-19 changed their style. Shockingly, 76% of respondents said COVID-19 did change their fashion, saying they mostly dressed in a more mature or experimental way. 8
Grunge, Y2K, streetwear, baggy jeans, cargo pants, athleisure, and the tinyshirts-and-big-pants combo were the trends most often mentioned by respondents. USG students said they mostly got their fashion inspiration from Pinterest, Tik Tok, Instagram and Emma Chamberlain, a YouTuber. USG students named low-rise pants, early 2000’s fashion, Bella Swan’s fashion in Twilight, academia and pink feminine styles as the most popular trends throughout COVID-19. We also interviewed Isabelle Greer, a fashion major, and Jasmyn Johnstone (USG ‘24). Greer studied Apparel De-
sign & Development at Seattle Central College and now works at Jarbo’s Seattle location. Johnstone interned at BirdieBee and Seven7 Shoes, fashion companies. One of the first questions we asked Greer and Johnstone was how they think COVID-19 has affected the fashion industry. Johnstone responded, “I think with the athleisure side of it, athletics have become so much more prominent since COVID-19 happened.” Johnstone also mentioned, “There’s more natural patterns. That’s how COVID affected it. You’re going to see more natural patterns because people are coming out more. They’re less locked in their INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
houses and they’re connecting more with nature.” She also thought there will be more bright colours like bright yellows, rich blues, purples and psychedelic colours.
Johnstone was asked if COVID-19 made it harder to forecast trends and colours, she replied, “I mean I would say kind of the same. I really only worked in this industry for the time of COVID…So I do think there has been change, but I think it’s still very predictable.”
Greer said, “With my job, I know that my boss really struggled because we get... clothing manufactured in Bulgaria, China and Italy… So a lot of the warehouses were shut down, and, people couldn’t come into the stores anymore to shop, so that’s when we started our online store, and it’s doing really really well now. But I know that was a really huge transition for them because, you know? They’ve never done anything online before.” Greer also agreed with Johnstone, saying that athleisure wear was now more popular. Greer Lastly, people’s style has changed a lot said, “And like I said, it just became a during COVID-19, and when asked lot more leisurewear. Like hoodies and personally Greer said,“I think it has, sweat suits and all that kind of stuff.” and I think the company I’m working Trend forecasting is a career that focuses for [has] as well. They’ve become a lot on forecasting future trends like colours, more relaxed, you know? We don’t want to wear super tight clothes anymore and fabrics, textures, accessories, footwear, be uncomfortable. So I think a lot of the street style and runway wear. When
“76% of [AWS students] said covid-19 did change their fashion.”
INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
styles are becoming a lot less sophisticated, if that makes sense.” While Johnstone says, “Personally, I was a lot more into street style—like just rocking a lot more street-like baggy clothes or some tight, some baggy—like a lot shorter and smaller.” Adding on a Parisian fashion tip, “In a sense, I learned how to build a better balance. A Parisian thing is you should wear two types of clothing—always have one baggy, one tight.” Both Greer and Johnstone talk about tight and shorter clothes which were personally going out of style for them. They opted for flowier, work-appropriate and yet comfortable clothing pieces. Overall the Upper School’s experience with COVID-19 has been all over the place with mental health, fashion, school and much more, but one thing we all have in common is change within ourselves, our expression, our fashion styles and our lives.
Dark academia Clothes by Brooklyn Nguyen, Zuri Smith and Kamiyah Vitartas-Miller Photos by Ruby Li Captions by Sofia Guerra Dark Academia is the name coined for this gothic, American-prep aesthetic. It is one of the “Academia” aesthetics, which center around a passion for learning, literature and self-discovery.
In this spread, the many facets of Dark Academia are explored and explained. Furthermore, Inkwell has compiled a Dark Academia lookbook for the viewing of its readers.
The essence of dark academia is that of allure, mystery and curiosity. Romanticizing education is a key tenet, and grandiosity and pretentiousness are not uncommon to come across in this world. Antiques, architecture and old money are also important elements of this aesthetic. Dark Academia is drama and high society personified. ing. In the building Academia takes ins mantic and Victoria more fanciful, the b In terms of shoe ch shoes or heels are m Martens, however, grown in popularity.
Dark Academia fashion consists of sweater vests, v-neck cardigans, button-up shirts and ornate blouses. Skirts, pencil or pleated, and dress pants are also staple items. Palate-wise, Dark Academia favors earth tones and shades. This allows for another signature aspect of Dark Academia fashion: versatility. In the fashion of school uniforms, Dark Academia articles are optimal for mixing and matching as well as layer 10
When it comes to accessories, Dark A between simplicity up is natural or dar hairstyles are clean sheveled. Accessori plain leather messe to ornate pendants rings. Glasses and s also popular additio tage and bookish ap cessories also aim t and high socio-eco
INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
Dark Academia is also characterized by music. Classical pieces from the Baroque and Romantics periods are popular. These pieces tend to convey feelings of melancholy or romanticism, however, epic and high-tension pieces also have their place. The genre of music isn’t limited to classical pieces, though. Contemporary artists such as Lana Del Rey, Florence + The Machine, and Sleeping At Last are favored for their dramatic and theatrical works. Dark Academia playlists for studying or for mood are also a rising phenomenon, and can be found on YouTube paired with aesthetic graphics and melodramatic titles.
of outfits, Dark piration from Ro n fashion. The etter.
Dark Academia also has a wide range of media claimed as “canon” to the aesthetic. These medias—books, films, series, comics, plays, musicals and more—tend to be set in the 19th or 20th century, more often than not at an elite and secluded private school. The characters are disciplined, skilled and cold, with mannerisms and behaviors foreign to the outside world.
oice, leather dress ost common. Doc have recently makeup, hair and cademia is split and drama. Make kly mysterious; cuts or wildly di es range from nger and tote bags and stacks of uspenders are ns for their vin pearances. Ac o convey wealth nomic status.
Additionlly, Dark Academia has associated seasons. Fall and Winter are preferred to Summer and Spring, as the former allows for the signature layering. Similarly, shorter days, longer nights and a slight chill in the air lend themselves to the darker themes of the aesthetic. Fallen leaves and white snow make for mystical and beautiful backdrops, and rain carries a certain sadness and desperation.
INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
Dark Academia media also features a number of common tropes—murder, secrecy, forbidden knowledge, drug abuse, mental illness and the obsession with the pursuit of knowledge. Some examples of popular Dark Academia media are the Harry Potter series, Dead Poets Society, The Phantom of the Opera, Kill Your Darlings and The Umbrella Academy. Some key authors in Dark Academia are Arthur Conan Doyle, Donna Tartt, J.D. Salinger and Ancient Greek playwrights and philosophers like Sophocles. 11
Students wear variations of uniform for practical and expressive purposes. Photo by Sofia Guerra.
Uniforms: the good, the bad by Erin Picken In light of the current uncertainty surrounding the future of uniforms at Annie Wright, Inkwell interviewed AWS students on their experiences with school uniforms. Student responses ranged from glowing to abysmal, with diverse reasons for positive and negative feelings towards the topic alike. At face value, uniforms provide a myriad of benefits, from early morning convenience to the promotion of school pride — but how do the students who wear them on a daily basis really feel about them? Inkwell surveyed students on 14 common criticisms and praises of school uniforms, asking them to share their own experiences. The results were extremely divided. 41 of the 56 students surveyed said that they believe uniforms are restrictive to a fault, while 34 believe that they are convenient and 32 credit them to preventing some forms of bullying. These 56 students were also given the opportunity to share their personal thoughts on the matter with Inkwell. Anna Parrott (USG ‘22) praised uniforms for their practicality, saying, “It is definitely nice being able to wake up in the morning and not worry about what I am wearing to school. In this sense, they save time and take away that extra decision-making in the morning.” Many students support uniforms for similar reasons, including Sophia Irigoyen (USG ‘24), who said wearing a uniform helps her 12
stay “organized and punctual.” However, she also expressed that being allowed to wear clothes of her own choice would help her to stay focused during the school day more than the uniform does. Despite the seemingly common opinion that the uniform stunts individuality by removing an aspect of personal expression from the AWS community, many students feel that the uniform isn’t overly restrictive given the short period of time per day they are expected to wear them. When asked whether uniforms allow for personal expression, Nadine Gibson (USG ‘23) said, “No, they do not allow for personal expression, however, we have after school, weekends, summers and civvies days to express ourselves with our clothing. The 6-8 hours we wear a uniform during school days isn’t detrimental to our ability to express ourselves.” When asked if she believes personal expression is essential to an educational environment, Gibson said, “Of course, however, clothing is not the only way for this to happen.” Most students seem to agree that the uniform mostly disallows for personal expression, however, not everybody believes it should. People get creative though — Henri Bothel (USB ‘23) says he chooses to express himself through his shoe choice. Students are also guaranteed INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
And the ugly a few days of choice every month. Every Friday, contingent on student behavior, Spirit Friday is celebrated. On Spirit Friday, students are allowed to wear school spirit gear, ties other than the standard red, yellow, green and blue ties and their choice of any pattern or color of shoes or socks. Monthly civvies days occur school-wide every last Friday of the month, and civvies passes are often handed out as rewards. In this discussion, the school’s outward perception must also be taken into consideration. Many students stated that they believe part of the reason for the preservation of the uniform is to maintain a particular image. Emma McCarthy (USG ‘23) told Inkwell, “I think it makes the school look more prestigious and old-fashioned — that’s what [AWS is] going for.” Another student, AJ Cotto-Rivera (USB ‘24), said that it stood out to her during her tour of the school: “it gave an extremely elite impression.” While this response was common, many students also stated that they believe uniforms make students, as well as the school as a whole, seem uppity and arrogant. Logan Hancock (USB ‘22) said he believes uniforms create a false sense of elitism, and Calvary Seui (USB ‘24) says he thinks other schools believe AWS to be “uptight and strict” because of them. INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
For optimal health and education, students should feel comfortable at school, both physically and emotionally. The question is whether or not uniforms infringe on students’ ability to focus and feel their best. Bothel told Inkwell, “Sometimes I can get too hot or too cold. In the past, I was very self-conscious and the uniform didn’t help make me feel more comfortable at school.” Many members of the USG commented that uniform pants are difficult to find or uncomfortable to wear, leaving minimal options during colder months, especially with current COVID-19 restrictions requiring windows and doors to stay open in classrooms. Gibson said, “ I generally feel comfortable in uniform, the only edit I’d make to this is that I prefer loose-fitting clothes as opposed to tight-fitting, so I do have to modify the uniform a bit when it’s cold out, usually by wearing loose leggings under my skirt.” Uniform shorts are allowed in the USB uniform but not the USG uniform. Winnie Jiang (USG ‘25) asked, “Why aren’t girls allowed to wear shorts? I prefer to wear skirts, but when it’s hot, it’s the only option for girls, which doesn’t seem at all fair.” AWS administrators and student leaders are currently working to address students’ concerns of gender inclusivity in AWS upper school uniforms (C: Uniforms, page 14). The list of benefits and downfalls of school uniforms is a long one, complicated further by AWS’ long history of a uniformed student body. The goal of all educational institutions should be the health and education of their students, whether that means maintaining the tradition of uniforms or questioning their role in the Annie Wright community. 13
Unprecedented Uniform changes by Sebastian Bush This article was originally published on Inkwell’s website and has since been updated with additional information. For the original article, visit www.anniewrightinkwell.org.
“ Student feedback [is] a key factor in the decision-mak ing.” The Annie Wright Schools administration has made a major decision regarding uniform policy. Inkwell uncovered several yet-to-be-announced uniform edits that significantly alter both Upper School divisions’ uniforms. These changes come after a joint student government (Student Life and Governance [SL&G] of the USG, Legislative Assembly of the Boys School [LABS] of the USB) push for more uniform options for both divisions.
factor in the decision making process and hopes students continue to share their ideas. Corrigan explained the new uniform decided upon by the Annie Wright administration: “Students in both the USB and USG are now able to wear components like khaki or navy trousers, blazers, ties or ribbons, white button-down shirts or polos, as well as the plaid skirt that remains a part of school tradition.” Jeremy Stubbs, director of the Upper School for Boys, clarifies, “If students are wearing a polo they need to wear the ribbon tie. If students wear a button-down they can wear the striped tie or the ribbon tie.” Corrigan emphasized that the new uniform will be more gender-neutral and span both divisions.
“The new uniform will be more gender-neutral.”
A potential change to the uniform conEireann Corrigan, director of the Upper cerns dress uniform days. Addressing School for Girls, summed up the process whether or not there will be dress uniof making changes to the uniform: “Rob form next school year, Head of Schools Jake Guadnola said, “I’m not sure. We Scotlan met with both SL&G and LABS are actively considering uniform alterto gather ideas and feedback from the ations that we think are perhaps in the student body. Then, Mr. Stubbs and I met with the other division directors and best spirit and keeping of our intentions with the uniform.” Guadnola pointed to the Senior Leadership Team to finalize price as a main factor in these conversadetails.” She says both her and Jeremy tions. “[We are] also trying to recognize Stubbs, director of the Upper School the inherent cost of purchasing items for Boys, are excited about the uniform changes. As Corrigan added, “uniform[s] that are so infrequently worn.” He said it doesn’t make sense to require families to evolve just like schools do. We want future students in the USG and USB to feel spend hundreds of dollars on uniforms. “In the lower school it’s even worse comfortable and included.” Ultimately, where you know a kid will go through she points to student feedback as a key 14
sizes in a year, and each one coincides with a different dress uniform moment.” Ultimately, Guadnola said the administration isn’t set on anything: “if we [keep] it, why? If we get rid of it, what would replace it?”
Dress Uniform is worn for special occasions and events.
Stubbs mentioned one alternative option that had been discussed. The Upper Schools would implement a system of “Uniform+” days, where students would be asked to wear a button down shirt with tie instead of the more casual daily uniform. It is important to note that alINKWELL | JANUARY 2022
to come though students from both divisions will be allowed to wear blazers next school year, under this system, they would not be required at any point to do so. Though the administration is opting for-
Photos by Sofia La Rosa and Jack Pham.
drastic uniform changes in the form of a ‘mix-and-match’ system, the joint student government proposal suggested a very different way of enforcing uniform. According to the current head of LABS, Sean Lee (USB ‘22), the proposal sent to the administration allowed for students INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
from both divisions to wear the uniform of the other division. However, he stressed that under the proposed system, “you can’t really wear ‘mix and match’ [uniforms].” In order to arrive at this proposal, Head of SL&G Christine Hu (USG ‘22) noted there were many discussions surrounding potential uniform systems. She says they proposed three options: a single uniform for both divisions, a ‘mix and match’ option and a system with separate uniforms where a student could choose between the two. Hu says, “...we had quite an argument for [option] two and [option] three, and then we chose to go with option three because we are still a single-gender school and we are still different divisions—different schools— and therefore we wanted to protect something that still ensures that however close we are, we are still different, and we wanted to recognize that uniqueness.” Ultimately, the AWS administration chose not to go with the proposal sent from the two student governments, instead deciding on a system that allows for greater flexibility in uniform choices. The original conversations around this issue have been going on for a long time, however, the movement towards more inclusive policies gained traction in early 2021 after SL&G campaigned for gender-neutral pronouns in student handbooks. Around that same time, Inkwell published two opinion articles on the topic of single gender education and inclusivity in uniforms. These coinciding events offered a platform on which student opinion could prosper, and as Corrigan points out in her interview, this was one key factor in deciding on uniform regulation changes.
This breaking news comes after a recent history of poor uniform adherence by students. Since the beginning of the 2021-22 school year, students have failed to show proper uniform, at times dressing in casual clothing without using a “Civvies Pass”—a redeemable ticket that allows students to wear whatever they want on any one given day.
“in this semester i have witnessed more uniform infractions probably than any other time” Donald Sidman, USG science teacher, had a few strong opinions on uniform adherence throughout the school year. “In the transition back to in-person schooling, it is understandable that one of the things that has somewhat been lost is attention being paid to proper uniform.” Sidman says, “In this semester I have witnessed more uniform infractions, probably, than at any other time.” However, he argues that in-person schooling has proved more important than “the detriment of the uniforms being incorrect.” Ultimately, Sidman hopes, “that as the school year progresses, students will be paying more attention to uniform infractions, specifically such things as: remembering to wear their ties each day, not wrapping themselves in blankets as they walk down the hallway and not wearing boots to school.”
The importance of recycling clothes by Zuri Smith Inkwell interviewed Annie Wright School’s Nature Club on the importance of recycling clothes to help the environment and nature. Inkwell interviewed Maxine Pendras (USG ‘22) and Anna Parrott (USG ‘22), co-presidents of Annie Wright’s Nature Club.Parrot and Pendras showed us what actions damages the environment and some ways to give back. Inkwell: How do you think recycling clothes helps the environment?
Parrott: I think recycling is not the ideal solution people see it as. A lot of the recycling in the U.S. is sent to third world countries to be processed and often ends up dumped in the ocean, recycled improperly [or] ends up in landfills. Pendras: Recycling shouldn’t be the solution but more of a last resort. It’s better to not make the waste in the first place but once you have it, it’s better to
power, or solar. A lot of the decisions are in the hands of the government, not the people or consumers. Pendras: A lot of it is a big change, not just what I can do myself. It’s more of big politicians and big business and their emissions being lowered makes the most change. I try to consume less and not use things I don’t need. A lot of energy goes into transporting and making objects. I might not use the object very much, then it ends up in landfills and it’s really unsustainable and very linear.
Parrott: I feel that running a circular economy or an economy where the waste products of things that have been consumed are brought back into a system, bringing it to a closed-loop rather than a stream of waste is beneficial to reduce the impact of waste and also the impact of producing new materials. By re- Anna Parrott and Maxine Pendras co-lead Annie Wright School’s Nature Club. cycling clothes, you save energy Photo by Sofia Guerra. both by reducing the environmental cost recycle it than to bury it in the ground. Inkwell: How do you help the environof production, as well as the environmenment by recycling clothes? tal impact of the waste products of the Inkwell: What’s one way you would help clothing industry. lower greenhouse gas emissions? Parrott: I have sent clothing to specific clothing recycling brands or groups that Pendras: Making new clothes with Parrott: Advocate[ing for] politicians will thrift or resell your clothes. new materials uses a lot of energy and who support policies that support lowresources. And the process they use to ering greenhouse gas emissions is the Pendras: I agree with Anna that recytreat, wash, and dye their clothes is horri- most effective thing any individual can cling clothes should not be your first ble. Recycling helps with that. do to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. plan. Buying second hand clothes helps, Lowering greenhouse gas emissions also I donate clothes or resell them. I’ve Inkwell: What are your views on recyare large-scale shifts, changing where never really recycled clothes, I probably cling? a country gets its energy from, like if a should but I also don’t throw away that country gets its energy from coal power many clothes either.
“Recycling should not be your first plan.”
INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
Where did my clothes come From? Fashion dominates everyone’s lives in how they present themselves and how they wish to be perceived. Brands and clothing organizations have come to realize that they can manipulate self-expression for profit, and thus fast fashion emerged. Analysts of the fashion industry focus on society’s wants, desires and insecurities, and play to them to create the perfect clothing in the eyes of the fashion brands. They do so by pumping out as many designs as possible to generate hype and profit, further integrating fast fashion into society. The fashion industry is designed such that people need to buy clothes every season if they want to stay consistent with trends. As fashion brands increase the production of clothing, the consumers become used to fast releases of new clothing. To produce fast and cheap clothing for all seasons, fashion brands have to manufacture their clothing with as few resources as possible. The solution fast fashion companies arrived at is manufacturing in underdeveloped countries, allowing them to spend the least amount of money possible. A large number of workers are needed to create fast and cheap clothing, so manufacturers are unable to create humane conditions for their workers. These foreign manufacturing companies pay their workers minimum wage, and oftentimes, minimum wage is only a fraction of living wage. The average Indian garment worker receives 56 cents per hour; the average Bangladeshi garment worker receives 33 cents per hour. Without sufficient income, garment workers do not have enough to provide their families with education, food INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
by Emma Len and rent. Due to the insufficient wage, even children have to work in the garment factories. Shockingly, 60% of garment workers are under 18. Families become trapped in the vicious cycle of poverty. Fast fashion companies increased their production rate which affected the consumers’ demand for clothing, resulting in below-subsistence wages for garment workers. To help, we can buy clothes from ethical companies, purchase second-hand clothing, be conscious of where our clothes come from and educate our peers. Local shops are always a good option when looking for ethically-produced Fast fashion produces low-quality clothing that leads to increased waste. Photo by Sofia Guerra. clothing. Buying from these shops also helps the local ourselves can have a big impact on those community. With thrift stores rising in affected by fast fashion. Researching popularity, they’re also a good option clothing brands to find whether they as buying from sustainable brands is are ethical or not can take a lot of time often too expensive. Buying from thrift and energy, but the website, “Good stores—“thrifting”—means that the For You” can lift this burden. “Good clothes are second-hand. Thrift stores For You” was founded by Sandra Capcan be a cheap alternative with a wide poni and Gorden Renouf in 2015. The range of styles to pick and choose from. website gives useful information on Research from the Sustainability Instithe brands and an ethicality rating. The tute says that everyday, a truckload of website also focuses on environmental clothing is either burnt or trashed. By impact, labor rights and animal protecpurchasing second-hand clothing, we tion. Alternatives to fast fashion help reduce the production rate of clothes reduce the amount of fast fashion. over time. Some of these solutions may not work for everyone, so learning where Emma Len is a contributing writer. our clothes come from and educating 17
INKWELL | JANUARY 2022
Artist’s statement by Sukie Wang This piece was designed for Lina Lamont, a character in Singin’ in the Rain. As an overconfident movie star who adores Don Lockwood, I drew inspiration for this dress from the most popular multi-patterned flower of the period, dahlia. Through the purple pleated texture on the lower part of the dress, I referenceed the dahlia cactus where its unique pine-needle petals connect. The major obstacle was the silk. Since it is hard to shape, I spent a decent amount of time in experimenting with shaping methods that would not make the dress look heavy. Eventually, I ended with one layer of Brussels linen inside of the dress with thin shoulder strips. I also added design referencing French culture because of the change in the movie showing the clip from “The Royal Rascal” at the beginning. American and French cinema mutually influenced each other during the film noir period, so adding French patterns allows the audience to experience the period more. Examples of these designs include the faded rose I made with cotton as a reference to the famous 1956 song, “La vie en rose.” [I] hope everyone can enjoy and be inspired by this piece as much as I did while making it.
INKWELL | JANUARY 2022