The 1970s - Fashion and how it was affected

By Anna Richardson

T H E 1 9 7 0 S

Figure 1: Fiorucci Campaign (Toscani, 1970) (a)

Figure 2: John Travolta in the 1970s movie ‘Saturday Night fever’ (google images, 2018) (A)

The 1970s saw the idealistic bubble of the 1960s burst, with the rise of unemployment, the pocket pinching recession and the tragic oil spill of 1973 (Mulvey, Richards. 1999. Pg. 155). However, this didn’t prevent the 70s from truly expressing themselves, with the decade declared a time of ‘anything goes’ (Herald. 2007), with an array of trends most notably the Punk, Disco and the Glam- rock music scene, putting the 70s on the map as one of the most significant decades of the 20th Century.

World events: Politics and Society The 70s brought people back to reality after the idealistic and blurred utopia of the 60s, with harrowing news from the Vietnam war and the failed Apollo 16 mission (Mulvey K. Richards, 1999). As Mulvey K. Richards, M. (1999) states, this then created growing scepticism and doubt in the American Government. Added to this, the 1970s saw an oil embargo imposed on the USA by the Middle East, “bringing a 70% rise in the price of oil in 1973” (Mendes, De La Haye, 2010. Pg. 192). President JimmyCarter, asked Americans to turn down the heat and start bundling up; layers became very fashionable and it also led to popular earth tones in clothing becoming trendy as they helped to cut down the amount of heat being used (Skinner, 1998). A new appreciation for world resources was created, with fashion mirroring these changes (Skinner, 1998).

Figure 4: A protest in favour of ending the Vietnam War (Google images (b), 2018)

Figure 3: A visual representation of the effects of the oil embargo in 1973 on people’s lives (Colgan, 2013).

Added to this, “the depressing scene was compounded by the spectacularly unglamorous Carter administration in USA, and, in Britain Prime Minister Edward Heath decrying the unacceptable face of capitalism” (Mulvey, Richards, 1999. Pg. 155) Compared to the 60s, the 70s were known for bad taste, with trends regularly starting and stopping (Mulvey, K. Richards, M. 1999). This was partly due to the political turmoil the 70s faced. However, “even amongst the student protests in Europe and America and a worldwide escalation of terrorist attacks,” (Mendes, De la Haye, 2010. Pg. 192) designers still managed to find inspiration to create new style and trends, exploring retro high fashion (Mendes, De la Haye, 2010). From these events fashion was becoming more personal and giving people more freedom to choose. (Mendes, De la Haye, 2010).

Figure 5: Margaret Thatcher waving at the media, wearing her rainbow coloured style suit (Leaper (b, 2017).)

In terms of politicians Margaret Thatcher, “definitely knew how to make a fashion statement. Her rainbow coloured suits and trademark pussy bow blouses ensured she stood out from the men in suits on every political occasion.”

(Leaper, 2017). Thatcher made her presence known through her look, she never allowed herself to blend into the crowd, “Influencing the future decade’s power dressing for women internationally” (Dubridge, 2018).

For many women in this decade this became the case, as they started to look at their place in society for the first time (Mulvey, Richards, 1999). During the 1970s, feminism was taken up in earnest, Helen Gurley founded Cosmopolitan magazine and it struck a chord amongst women everywhere (Mulvey, Richards, 1999). This created a political stance about gender distinction between fashions for young people as lines grew increasingly blurred as both sexes grew their hair and wore similar clothing (Worsley, 2011).

Demographic and Economic data During the 1970s, “the economy was in disarray, unemployment was running high” (Worsley, 2011, p.166).

“The 1970s was not just an era of dayglow trousers, lava lamps and the emergence of punk rock. It was a traumatic economic decade of stagflation, a three day week and the return of unemployment.”

(Pettinger, 2017) This meant post war prosperity had now been replaced by a spiralling trend of economic inflation and industrial recession (Constantino, 1997). “By 1970 there were 1 million people unemployed in Britain and by 1979 the number grew to 3 million – the effects of the first oil crisis in 1973, when OPEC raised their prices had knock-on effects as workers were laid off and the price of manufactured goods rose.” (Constantino, 1997.

Pg. 109).

Furthermore, by 1973 inflation was reaching 20% (Pettinger, T. 2017). This led to purse strings tightening, with less money to spend, suddenly new was out of fashion (Skinner, 1998).

Figure 6: Unemployed youth sitting on a bench in the 70s (Robson, 2012).

“The economy was in disarray, unemployment was running high”

As workers were being dismissed and the prices of manufactured goods were rising, this led to one of the 70s earliest fashion crazes; wearing second hand and old clothing (Constantino, 1997).

Furthermore, with youth unemployment rising they also looked to second hand clothing and army surplus items (Constantino, 1997) as a cheaper alternative to the high-street brands. These hard times also lead to the revival of the make do and mend attitude, with many embracing the idea of craft, through embellishing jeans and jackets. (Worsley, 2011).

“In the late 1960s and early 1970s, secondhand dress, became associated with counterculture and aspiration towards an alternative society – it signalled a refusal of materialism and utopian desire to escape the trammels of consumer capitalism” (Buxbaum, 2011. Pg.100). The American writer Tom Woolfe called it radical chic with second hand shops and jumble sales giving poorer people a chance to look like they were wearing the same as others (Buxbaum, 2011). This trend which had started originally due to reasons such as unemployment and high prices, became one of the most important trends in the 1970s. Although, due to the popularity over time, second hand clothing prices did increase (Constantino, 1997).

Furthermore, “While on the whole less money was spent on clothes in the 1970s by contrast the amount spent on leisure, sports and holidays was rising – this was perhaps due in part to the changing work patterns faced by many.”

(Constantino, 1997. Pg. 120)

Figure 7: A couple embracing outside a second-hand thrift store. She is wearing the trademark flares from the 70s (Calhoun, 2018).

Technological Developments The 1970s was full of innovative technological developments which influenced fashion trends threefold.

Firstly, with the arrival of affordable airline flights in the 1970s, travel became easier and more accessible and fashion influences from abroad flourished (Worsley, 2011). Different styles from across the globe were coming back to the UK, including gypsy tops, afghan coats and kaftans (Worsley, 2011). Designers started incorporating these styles (Worsley, 2011). Also, “Through air travel, people were looking at different cultures, Grecian, Indian, East meets West and Japanese designers began selling to western buyers.

Escape meant looking outwards, as well as backwards.

Figure 8: Air hostesses dressed in typical 1970s style cut clothing (Goggle images, 2018) (C)

There was more freedom, with people moving towards personal empowerment, looser clothes, release from restrictions of social constraints.” (Christie, 2015) Looks such as the ‘peasant look’ were permeating into British fashion.

“The peasant look was eco-aware but also chimed with the new internationalism, fuelled by greater ease of travel and awareness of other cultures” (Christie, 2015).

As society became more multicultural, designers started using non- Western clothing concepts, due to the exotic place, customs and clothing which was in reach thanks to affordable travel (Mendes, De la Haye, 2010). These concepts created rich inspiration for designers and influenced a lot of different designer’s work. (Mendes, DE la Haye, 2010). For example, the YSL collection of 1976 had massive Russian influence. (Worsley, 2011).

Another exciting technology that came from the 70s was the commercial use of CAD and CAM, allowing for automated pattern cutting and grading clothes into sizes which helped minimise fabric waste (Worsley, 2011). After this, in 1978, came the ability for computers to control knitting and weaving machinery; these became essential tools still used in the fashion industry to this day (Worsley, 2011). This was a breakthrough, as it created a more efficient way of creating mass produced clothing products.

Added to this, momentous breakthroughs in science and medicine were happening, with the 70s boasting the world first testtube baby as well as advances in organ transplants and ultrasound (Herald, 2007).

“Diet and exercise gained an even more prominent place in health care” (Herald, 2007). “It is not surprising that the 1970s saw the rise of new industries devoted to leisure and that the garment industry responded with sportswear” (Constantino, 1997. Pg. 120). The sportswear industry helped to boost the economy and paved the way for the fitness craze as the era of the keep fit conscious was born (Mulvey, Richards, 1999).

Figure 9: Image taken from the Nordstrom catalogue, displaying the active sporty lifestyle of many in the 1970s (Powell, 2015).

Art and Design Although the 1970s was coined “the decade that taste forgot” (Sims, 2008), there was an amazing energy around the fashion of this time, “where everybody was smiling and happy about the clothes they were wearing” (Kamali, 2018). One of the major features to come out of the 1970s art and design movement was Missoni textiles. “The 1970s were Missoni's golden years.” (Watson, 2013). “By the 1970s the rust-brown Missoni cloth label was recognized worldwide as a status symbol.

Along with their artisanal approach and spirited colour combinations, the Missoni’s developed their expertise in striping, scalloping, waves, prints, and jacquard dots.

They used as many as twenty different materials, combining wool, cotton, linen, rayon, and silk in forty colour selections.” (Carrara, [no date]). The Missoni signature style was given its own fashion phrase, "the put-together look"; the magazine stated: "Count on Missoni to give you a sweater you never owned before." (Watson, 2013).

Missoni textiles were innovative and forward thinking “as the New York Times declared: ‘Missoni's knitted clothes have become international status symbols, like Vuitton bags and Gucci shoes.’ (Watson, 2013).

Missoni knitwear had also been shot by the elite of fashion photography including: Henry Clarke, Helmut Newton, Deborah Turbeville and Richard Avedon (Watson, 2013).

Figure 10: Classic Missoni outfit.

Missoni Textiles (Guardian, 2018)

Added to this, the 1970s, saw a revitalised interest in crafts such as, jewellery, ceramics, knitting and screen printing (Herald, 2007). Designers started fashioning handmade, individual designs, embracing and taking on inspiration from the third world and the ethnic look the seventies adopted (Herald, 2007).

“Many craftspeople hoped their work would be put into mass production, thus closing the gap between design and industry” (Herald, 2007. Pg. 17). New art forms were coming in from inspiration from the streets, for example, graffiti was massively showcased (Herald, 2007). The art market as a whole, thanks to the alliance between pop art and advertising and Andy Warhol’s factory, became more associated with the promotion of products (Herald, 2007. Pg.18).

Furthermore, Doc Marten boots became common place during the 1970s as Punks customised them as well as football fans who adorned them with their team colours (Worsley, 2011). In 1974, Comme de Garcon put them on the catwalk and made them mainstream fashion, as they became a part of the unisex urban uniform so commonly seen in the 70s

Media, Music and TV The 70s was all about nostalgia, with massive influence coming from Elvis the King of Rock (Herald, 2007). He influenced performers and captivated audiences everywhere; $20,000,000 worth of Elvis Presley products alone sold in 1974 (Herald, 2007). Added to this, many fashion styles in the 1970s stemmed from Hollywood producing films based in the 1940s and 50s, conjuring styles people wanted to mimic such as the ‘Great Gatsby’ and ‘The Godfather’ (Herald, 2007). Many designers took advantage of this by drawing on these classic pieces from the 30s and 40s (Herald, 2007). Yves Saint Laurent, for example, used tweeds and gauzier silks to create his ready to wear inspired looks. However, “fashion from the late 1970s will probably be best remembered by the disco craze that rocked the country” (Skinner, 1998. Pg78). Thanks to films such as, ‘Saturday night fever’ (1977) and ‘Thank God it’s Friday’ (1978) (Buxbaum, 2011), “girls wanted to shimmer and shine like exotic fish under the flashing lights and spinning mirror balls” (Worsley, 2007. Pg. 26), with women choosing to wear boob tubes, halter-necks, skin tight shiny pants and strappy sandals in gold or silver in order to mimic the look on the movies (Worsley, 2007).

However, “Disco fashion of the 1970s was seen as an aesthetic faux pas, a fashion characterised by superficiality” (Buxbaum, 2011. Pg. 116), with door screening policies with exclusive criteria which shaped the world according to the dictates of fashion (Buxbaum, 2011.Pg. 116 This, in turn determined the evolution of a specific type of clothing such as catsuits, leg warmers, wide flares and platform shoes; the motto became, ‘dress for effect’ (Buxbaum, 2011. Pg. 116). However, the disco style of clothing did contribute to the fitness trend with the craze for attending dance centres for a workout, born partly out of ‘Saturday night fever’ and ‘grease’ (Mulvey, Richards, 1999), as well as aerobics classes adopting spandex legwarmers and leotards (Worsley, 2011).

Figure 11: Disco Fever in the 1970s (Gonzanba,2018).

Sports brands were becoming aware of how powerful brand endorsement could be to sell their products and up their sales, an example being Nike’s use of Michael Jordan in a 1970s campaign (Worsley, 2011).

“Sportwear played a central role in twentieth century fashion, changing and driving clothing in a way no one could have anticipated. It altered the way women dress and feel in their clothes. Fashion and sportswear are irreversibly intertwined, and designers working in each field borrow ideas from the other” (Worsley, 2011. Pg. 54).

“1970s glam rock gave men a chance to dress up like women and flaunt their finery and feathers”

The 1970s saw masculine stereo types thrown out the window with the arrival of Glam Rock. “1970s Glam Rock gave men a chance to dress up like women and flaunt the finery and feathers” (Worsley, 2011. Pg159). This included, glitter, suits, makeup and heels. The biggest glam rock star was David Bowie, also known as his alter ego; Ziggy Stardust (Herald, 2007). His amazing costumes “spearheaded this outbreak of camp drama” (Worsley, 2011. Pg.159) “and spawned male and female Ziggy clones” (Worsley, 2011. Pg.159). This new style of dressing created more of an acceptance, “this was one of the few times during the twentieth century that fashion challenged preconceived notions of masculinity” (Worsley,2011. Pg. 159). “By the mid 1970s worldwide music sales grossed well over $4 billion annually- more than the film industry or sports” (Herald, 2007. Pg. 22). Another genre of music which made headlines was that of the American funk music of the 1960s and 70s. The roots of funk dressing lie in the black ghettos of America as funk is strongly associated with radical black politics (Worsley, 2011). The style consisted of flares, gold-chains, big afro hair and hot pants, with films such as ‘Shaft’ and ‘Super Fly’ immortalising the look and introducing funk to a wider audience, which spread across America (Worsley, 2011. Pg155). James Brown became one of the first artists with distinct funk sound (Worsley, 2011.

Pg155).

Figure 12: Ziggy Stardust- Bowies alter ego in the glam rock world (Heller, 2018).

Influential people One of the major influencers of fashion in the 1970s was the “new queen of punk Vivienne Westwood who made fashion history when she opened her boutique Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die on Kings Road in 1971. Two years later, she changed the shop’s name to SEX, turning fetishes into fashion under the catchy tagline ‘rubberwear for the office.’

It was innovative, expressive, and the people loved it – it’s no wonder she ended up becoming one of fashions biggest names” (Leaper, 2017). Punk style emerged in 1974 –Westwood together with Malcolm McLaren made newspaper headlines, making S&M clothing and aggressive looking accessories designed for the “London scene” and managing the punk group the Sex Pistols (Buxbaum, 2011. Pg. 119). By 1976 the Sex Pistols had achieved notoriety and Westwood’s shop became the place for punks and punk fashion (Buxbaum, 2011.

Pg. 119).

Westwood previewed her catwalk shows and was soon catapulted to the top of the fashion world with success lying In her ability to take risks (Buxbaum, 2011. Pg. 119).

“When punks exploded onto the streets in the 1970s- many were shocked by the heavy make-up, tattered clothes and offensive slogans (Worsley. 2011).

In the 1970s, unemployment was running high, teenagers were bored and restless, punk was a movement born out of angry protest” (Worsley, 2011.

Pg. 166). By 1976, art students and the unemployed started hanging out on Kings road – gathering around McLaren’s and Westwood’s shop ‘SEX’ in Chelsea – they tapped into the psyche of the angry teen (Worsley, 2011. Pg. 166). According to the integrated theory by Behling (1985), it is demographics that influence change in fashion (Dallabona, 2018. slide 50). In societies where the majority of people are young, fashion change will start from the bottom trickling up to the top (Dallabona, 2018. slide 50). -

Figure 13: Vivienne Westwood icon in the punk world (Herald. 20017) (A)

This can be seen in the case of punk style and the influence it had on Vivienne Westwood’s clothes and approach to her work (Dallabona, 2018. slide 50) This was influenced by unemployed youth and teens, as the demographic at this time was a relatively-young population, suggesting that Behling’s theory (1985) was in place, with a trickle up logic (Dallabona, 2018. slide 50). Punk had a greater impact on western popular culture than any other movement since the hippies of the 1960s, however the hardcore cult only lasted 30 months (Buxbaum, 2011. Pg. 120).

Figure 14: Vivienne Westwood and McLaren modelling outfits for their store in London (Herald. 2007) (A)

Figure 15: Fiorucci Campaign (Toscani,1970) (B)

Another influential face of the 1970s has to be Elio Fiorucci, an Italian Wizard who used images of pop art and American graffiti to create corduroy jeans in bright colours; making the Levi brushed denim look very drab in comparison (Herald, 2007. Pg. 50).

During the 1970s more department stores were starting to display individual clothing lines (Herald, 2007. Pg. 24). This was first done in Henri Bendel in 1970, selling the latest lines and fabric (Herald, 2007.Pg. 25).

The stores were able to work out, for example, that Navy velvet men’s suits sold well in Paris but not as well in London, revolutionising men’s fashion (Herald, 2007.

Pg.25).

Figure 16: Pierre Cardin innovative designs (Herald. 2007) (B)

Menswear designers were taking risks, making bold fashion statements for the first time (Herald, 2007. Pg.25). Pierre Cardin 1973-74 used zippers and knee patches and exaggerated them to make daring pieces, with an all in one hound tooth check outfit, the like of which was never worn before (Herald, 2007.

Pg. 25).

Figure 17: Two punks showing off their controversial style (Ridger,1977).

The 1970s will most certainly be remembered for its controversial yet wonderful collection of styles and trends and should be praised for its freedom of expression and its boldness in daring to be different. Despite the poor economic situation and lack of prosperity, fashion still managed to diversify and flourish with the help of multi-cultural influences from overseas. The decade paved the way for the 1980s, taking with it some of the major styles from the 70s, highlighting the influence 1970s fashion had on the world.

Word Count: 2969

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List of illustrations Figure 1: Toscani, O. 1970. Fiorucci Campaign. (A)[online] [accessed 27 November 2018] Available from: https://metalmagazine.eu/bi/post/metal37/metal-no-37-remaking-the-past-bylusha-alic Figure 2: “Getty images” 1975. Donna Pescow and John Travolta strike an iconic pose in “Saturday Night fever” [online] [accessed 20 November 2018] available from: https://www.today.com/popculture/saturday-night-feverturns-40-6-things-you-may-not-t110867 Figure 3: Colgan, J. 2013. 40 years after the oil crisis: Could it happen again? [online] accessed 22 November 2018] available from: https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/monkey-cage/wp/2013/10/16/40-yearsafter-the-oil-crisis-could-it-happenagain/?noredirect=on&utm_term=.a91965492959 Figure 4: University of Iowa Libraries. 2010. [online] [accessed 22 November 2018] Available from: https://blog.lib.uiowa.edu/news/2010/05/04/studentprotests-of-the-1970s/ Figure 5: Leaper, C. 2017. The style icons who defined glorious seventies fashion [online] [accessed 22 November 2018] Available from: https://www.marieclaire.co.uk/fashion/1970s-fashion-moments-that-definedseventies-style-96107#8YhjrMpJSUJUIFwv.99 Figure 6: Robson, S. 2012. Punks, video games and kids just hanging out: How the Paparazzo of Peterborough documented life in town during the 70s and 80s. [online] [accessed 22 November 2018] Available from: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2246418/Punks-video-games-kidsjust-hanging-How-Paparazzo-Peterborough-documented-life-town-70s80s.html Figure 7: Calhoun, A. 2018. The Birthplace of American Vintage How East Village Shop Limbo made second-hand clothes cool. [online] [accessed 22 November 2018] Available from: https://www.thecut.com/2017/11/the-newyork-origins-of-vintage-shopping.html

Figure 8: Flight attendant in the 1970s. 2018. [online] [accessed 28 November 2018] Available from: http://shimshimak.blogspot.com/2012/04/flightattendants-in-1970s.html Figure 9: Powell, J. 2015. Throwback Thursday: working out and top hits of 1979. [online] [accessed 22 November 2018] available from: HTTPS://BLOGS.NORDSTROM.COM/FASHION/THROW BACK-THURSDAY-THE-1979-VINTAGE-WORKOUTCLOTHES-TOP-SONGS/ Figure 10: Classic Missoni outfit. 2018. Missoni Textiles. [online] [accessed 27 November 2018] Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/sep/22/italymissoni-65-years-fashion-food-friends Figure 11: Gonzaba, E. 2018. Inside Americas disco scene in the late 1970s. [online] [accessed 22 November 2018] Available from: http://www.ericnolangonzaba.net/imageclio/ Figure 12: Heller, J. 2018. How David Bowie Invented Ziggy Stardust. [online] accessed 22 November 2018] available from: https://www.rollingstone.com/music/musicfeatures/how-david-bowie-invented-ziggy-stardust-629073/ Figure 13: Vivienne Westwood Best Punk look. 2018. [online] [accessed 27 November 2018] Available from: https://www.vogue.it/en/fashion/news/2018/04/08/vivienne-westwood-bestlooks-from-seventies-birthday-77-years/ Figure 14: Herald, J. 2007. Fashion of a decade- The 1970s.Second Edition New York. Chelsea House (A) Figure 15: Toscani, O. 1970. Fiorucci Campaign. (B)[online] [accessed 27 November 2018] Available from: https://metalmagazine.eu/bi/post/metal37/metal-no-37-remaking-the-past-bylusha-alic Figure 16: Herald, J. 2007. Fashion of a decade- The 1970s.Second Edition New York. Chelsea House (B) Figure 17: Derek Ridgers.1977. Punk London 1977 [online] [accessed 20 November 2018]. Available from:http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/22115/6/derek-ridgerspunk-london-1977