THIS IS FASHION & NOT POLITICS AMERICA CLASS 1 MASTER CONTEMPORARY FASHION BUYING
ARIANTO LISA CHRISTINE ANJINI V. DUGAL RHEE HWA KYEONG
INDEX
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ABSTRACT Brief summary of a research, and in-depth analysis of the particular subject.
CASE STUDIES Anti Trump Anti Brexit Fashion Feminist Activism Woke Models Environmental Issues #BeKindtoElephants CFDA’s Planned Parenthood
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DRIVERS
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Large-scale shifts in consumer behaviour, Right momentum of activism as a marketing tool, Emerging consumer’s awareness towards ethical, sustainable and environment issue, Global political instability Uncertain, changing and challenging.
Political Statement In The 1950s The Miniskirts In The1960s Bold slogans by Katharine Hammett In The1980s McQueen’s Rape collection In The1990s Obama dress InThe 2000s
HISTORICAL REVOLUTION
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INFLUENCERS
Anna Wintour Vivienne Westwood
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CONCLUSION a judgement or decision reached by reasoning
ABSTRACT Fashion can be a strategic tool, a way to communicate a person’s power and posi8on. Over the years, public figures have con8nued to shape their iden88es through clothing and accessories somethings that are prevalent to date. Designers like Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood with their strong and fearless voicing of opinions show the world how fashion is not just about selling expensive clothes but a tool to ini8ate change. Meanwhile, today influencers and models, people who connect with the masses are ‘new voices’ in the fashion world naviga8ng change. The project thus highlights the poli8cal role of fashion as a driver of change by looking into the past present and future.
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CASE STUDIES VOGUE’S POLITICAL ENDORSEMENT CALVIN KLEIN’S POLITICAL MESSAGE AT NY FASHION WEEK #TIEDTOGETHERMOVEMENT PRABAL GURUNG TAKES POLITIC ANTI BREXIT FASHION BREXIT INSPIRED “HEART IMMIGRATION” WE SHOULD ALL BE FEMINIST MISSONI’S KNITTED PINK PUSSY HATS AT MILAN FASHION WEEK MADONNA’S MET GALA OUTFIT WAS A POLITICAL STATEMENT HANNE GABY ODIELE COMING OUT AS AN INTERSEX FIRST EVER HIJABI MODEL VIVIENNE WESTWOOD TOP ACTIVISTS #BEKINDTOELEPHANTS PLANNED PARENTHOOD FASHION BRANDS REACT TO CLIMATE AGREEMENT WITHDRAWAL
VOGUE’S POLITICAL ENDORSEMENT
Vogue magazine has endorsed Hillary Clinton for US president, the first time in its 124-year old history that it has openly supported a politician. In an opinion editorial, the fashion magazine had never before spoken in favour of one candidate, although editors have voiced their opinions from time to time. “Given the profound stakes of this one, and the history that stands to be made, we feel that should change,” it said. Often referred as the ‘Oscars of the East Coast’, the Met Gala is the highlight of New York’s social calendar. The guest list is carefully handpicked by Anna Winter and her team, only 700 people could get the invitation each year. But Donald Trump, who was a frequent guest in the gala over the decades, would no longer be welcome. Anna Wintour, who co-chairs the fundraising event, has revealed she will not be asking the President back.
THIS IS NOT AMERICA
CALVIN KLEIN’S POLITICAL MESSAGE AT NY FASHION WEEK The most anticipated show of F/W 2017, the debut collection of Raf Simons for Calvin Klein, opened with David Bowie’s infamous song “This is Not America,” Raf Simons made a clear message - it was a letter to America that Raf Simons wrote as an immigrant who had just arrived from Europe. The music, the clothes and even the bandanas he sent to the guests with a note saying: “Unity, inclusion, hope and acceptance: Join us at Calvin Klein in wearing the white bandana. #tiedtogther,” Simons wanted to use his debut collection as his voice. “When you have a voice, you should use it,” Simons said backstage just a week before at his own label’s menswear show, almost as if hinting at his Calvin Klein show.
#TIEDTOGETHER MOVEMENT The Business of Fashion has started the #TiedTogether movement to support solidarity, unity, and inclusiveness during fashion week, while ongoing uncertainty and dangerous narratives are rife. The symbol of the movement is the white bandana, which was ‘tied together’ in the runways or worn by designers, including Tommy Hilfiger, Donatella Versace, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Prabal Gurung and Raf Simons. Celebrity guests also joined the movement, Gigi and Bella Hadid, Julianne Moore and Naomi Harris.
PRABAL GURUNG TAKES POLITIC Gurung has a history of speaking up on issues well beyond fashion trends, from diversity to discrimination. He isn’t shy about voicing his concerns about American Politics under current situation. During his collection of F/W 2017, Gurung clearly made a political statement with bold T-shirts. “The future is Female,” “Break Down Walls,” “I Am An Immigrant,” “Revolution Has No Borders,” and lastly “We Will Not Be Silenced.” He bowed to the guests wearing on his own “This is What a Feminist Looks Like” and white bandana Bloggers Bryan Boy, Tina Craig, Irene Kim, Aimee Song and Chriselle Lim joined Prabal Gurung wearing resistance t-shirts by the designer to speak up their political opinion.
ANTI BREXIT FASHION In June 2016, British designers began to publicly declare their anti-“Brexit” stance using the London men’s wear collections as their voice. At the Daniel W. Fletcher’s show/demonstration, a group of models was dressed in “STAY” hoodies and T-shirts while carting European Union flags and banners. And the Sibling designers Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery took their bow wearing T-shirts reading “IN”. Philip Ellis made his BA fashion degree show for CSM as a political statement with armbands, slogans and badges. “My agenda is to increase discourse on Brexit,” he wrote as part of his collection development process, the better to “make a difference in the referendum that I feel so passionately about. Birds of a feather flock together. Britain should not leave the EU.”
BREXIT INSPIRED “HEART IMMIGRATION” Jigsaw has created a proimmigration ad campaign in response to Brexit and ideas that immigration threatens so-called “British values”. The fashion brand has been praised on social media for the “brave, clever and different” campaign that doesn’t shy away from politics. Peter Ruis, CEO of Jigsaw, explained the thought behind the bold advertisements, which highlight the fact that their A/W 17 collection was sourced and manufactured in 16 countries, as well as being designed by 45 nationalities.
WE SHOULD ALL BE FEMINIST The most-discussed example of runway activism over the last years would be Maria Grazia Chiuri, who last year made history by becoming the first woman ever to be appointed as creative director in Christian Dior. She used her first collection(S/S 2017) to show a T-shirt emblazoned with ‘We Should All Be Feminists.’ in an age plagued by a Trump presidency. But before Maria Grazia Chiuri, Karl Lagerfeld made his voice through his S/S 2015 Chanel collection. Models were turned into freedom fighters with protest signs reading ‘Ladies First’ and ‘Feminist But Feminine’. It was politically correct after a Republican politician refusing to ratify the Violence Against Women Act in U.S. to hard-line Islamists in the Middle East. Lagerfeld said “I don’t see why every human being is not on the same level especially in my business.”
MISSONI’S KNITTED PINK PUSSY HATS AT MILAN FASHION WEEK During F/W 2017 Milan Fashion Week, Missoni’s exuberant finale showed models in Pussyhats, the hot pink symbol of protest and female solidarity that were created in honour of the Women’s March. It was a sign of support for the recent mass protests against U.S. President Donald Trump. Angela Missoni added “Pink is the new black”, asserting that women’s rights are human rights.
MADONNA’S MET GALA OUTFIT WAS A POLITICAL STATEMENT When it comes to women's rights we are still in the dark ages. “My dress at the Met Ball was a political statement as well as a fashion statement. The fact that people actually believe a woman is not allowed to express her sexuality and be adventurous past a certain age is proof that we still live in an ageist and sexist society. “ - Madonna-
HANNE GABY ODIELE Coming Out as Intersex This year, Belgian model Hanne Gaby Odiele made public announcement through a video that she was intersex. She also called for an end to the “traumatising surgeries” that are still forced on intersex children to try and change their gender. She explained that is the reason why she decided to make the video. She recalled “Those surgeries were never explained to me. They didn’t tell the full story, like the harm that could happen. They always said I was the only one, which is not truth.”
first ever hijabi model, Halima Aden Halima Aden, cast by Yeezy and Max Mara, campaign for Nike and shot by Mario Sorrenti for CR Fashion Book. Aden is the first Muslim model to choose to wear a hijab and dress modestly while on work. Aden was not decked out in full political garb but, in the wake of Trump’s Muslim ban, her presence was a statement in itself.
Vivienne Westwood Proves She’s Fashion’s Top Activist Ms. Westwood is now 75, an environmentalist and political activist whose collections are always manifestoes. For F/W 2017 collection, Westwood implored her audience to convert to green energy, refocus attention on the environment and buy less by sharing clothes. “Buy less, choose well, make it last.” The collection was a request for governments and customers to be responsible for environment. Vivienne Westwood’s eccentric and political F/W 2017 campaign features political issues within the U.S., specifically Trump’s plan to build a wall.
Following President Trump’s announcement stating the U.S. would withdraw from the Paris Climate Accord, major athletic brands including Under Armour, Nike and Adidias expressed their disapproval and displeasure with the decision. CEO and founder of Under Armour Kevin Plank said in a statement that “We at Under Armour are disappointed by Administration’s decision. Climate change is real and must be taken seriously by our business community, our customers, our neighbours and our elected officials.” Moreover Nike vowed to continue to follow the agreement. “We are deeply disappointed by the recent shift in climate policy. We will continue to honour the core commitments of the American Business Act on Climate Change Pledge, including reaching 100 percent renewable energy in all Nike owned or operated facilities around the world by 2025.”
#BEKINDTO ELEPHANTS The Trump administration's move to reverse a ban on elephant trophies has elicited strong reactions all over social media. Super model Doutzen Kroes who has been worked over the years in partnership with the Elephant crisis Fund expressed strong political statement on her instagram. And other fashion figures followed, from editor in chief of the Edit Lucy Yeomans to designer Giambattista Valli. The U.S. government is likely to overturn a ban on hunters bringing trophies of elephants they killed in Zimbabwe and Zambia back to the U.S., reversing an Obama administration rule put in place in 2014.
PLANNED PARENTHOOD
In time for New York Fashion Week CFDA launched the Fashion Stands with Planned Parenthood campaign with a special pin to raise awareness and support for the critical health care that the organization’s centers provide to the millions of Americans every year. Wear it Post it Tag it. CFDA encouraged everyone to take a picture wearing the pin and share it using #IStandwithPP to donate $5 for every post. Diane Von Furstenberg, Adam Selman, Brandon Maxwell, Georgina Chapman of Marchesa, Proenza Schouler more than 40 designers and brands participated to support Planned Parenthood.
Large-scale shifts in consumer behaviour, Right momentum of activism as a marketing tool, Emerging consumer’s awareness towards ethical, sustainable and environment issue, Global political instability Uncertain, changing and challenging.
3 DRIVERS
Large-scale shifts in consumer behaviour. We live in a time of constant change and volatility. However, one thing is certain: consumer values, needs and behaviours will continue to evolve. In the end, the increase of geopolitical uncertainty condition have led to a large-scale shift in consumer behaviour around the world. In the recent years, customers have aggressively expecting brands and fashion houses to have common understanding and react rapidly towards body positivity, gender bending issues, and also highlighting the unique needs and growing importance of devout Islamic consumers.
REBIRTH OF THE ACTIVIST MOVEMENT : Right momentum of activism as a marketing tool.
Over the years activist movements have branched out in various forms: feminist, women’s rights activists, LGBT rights activists, opponents of slavery, immigration activists, animal rights advocates. Today, in the social media-driven world, the current trend for activism is especially strong in the Generation Z, sources suggest that 85% of Gen Z believe that companies or brands have the obligation to contribute to social and environmental issues. Thus giving marketers an opportunity to exploit the same in the name of making a positive change in the world by drawing together socially conscious models, designers, and other influential people.
Emerging consumer’s awareness towards ethical, sustainable and environment issue. The push for sustainability has now become a common thread across the industry and is now one of the key drivers influencing consumer purchasing decisions. This in turn has lead to increasing pressure from the consumers towards transparency of environmental responsibility from the companies. In emerging markets for example more than 65% of consumers actively seek out sustainable fashion resulting in fashion companies to implement changes in their core operations.Global population growth, climate change, land and water scarcity, and the increasing cost of key resources have a direct impact on the bottom line of every company. Fashion companies have also been looking inward, implementing changes to their core operations.
Global political instability : Uncertain, changing and challenging. All markets across the globe have been highly affected by the tremors in the global macroeconomic and geographical sphere. The impact of political shift in United States, Brexit vote in the U.K. and rapid change in the Chinese stock market has created disturbances all across the globe. Therefore, this has impacted the fashion industry and has been an issue of concern since Trumps administration took over. While on one hand Anti trump protests are spread across globally, on the other Hilary Clinton supporters continue to support her.
50S. Mini skirts in the 1960s. Katharine Hamnett’s bold slogans 80S. 90S McQueen’s Highland Rape collection. Castelbajac Obama.
4 HISTORICAL ANALYSIS
HISTORICAL ANALYSIS
During the 1952 U.S. presiden8al elec8on, Peter George Peterson smartly incorporated candidate Dwight Eisenhower nickname "Ike", as a promo8onal slogan for the presiden8al elec8on. It became so popular that it slowly trickled down into the daily fashion with women in ‘I like Ike’ sloganclothing in order to show their support. Four years later the slogan was simply changed into “I s8ll like Ike”.
50S.
60s A decade of revolu8onary changes in terms of poli8cs and culture, the fashion trends of the 1960s are a direct reflec8on of the turmoil and explora8on that occurred during the era. The elec8on of John F. Kennedy, the Vietnam War and the Civil Rights movement not only forever altered the landscape of America but also inspired designers to transform the fashion industry. According to Valerie Steele, fashion historian and author of 50 Years of Fashion: New Look to Now, "Looking back on the late 1950s, the English designer Sally Tuffin recalled that, 'There weren’t any clothes for young people at all. One just looked like their mother.'“ However as the social climate changed so did the mindset and as a result the style of dressing. Thus the mini skirt was born. However, many feminists saw it as a symbol of their right to show off their bodies however they wanted, and it no longer felt like the "right thing" to dress to please others. They dressed for themselves and because of that, a new feminine ideal was created: The Single Girl: She was young, made her own money, and didn't occupy her mind or 8me with men. In the Image : Girls in mini skirts, protes8ng against Chris8an Dior’s under the knee dresses, for their right to wear mini skirts in the 1960s.
0s
The pioneer of the poli8cal slogan t-shirt, Katharine Hamned’s bold words printed on oversized tees have been mouthpieces for some of the most important issues over the decades. The most famous and memorable one was her first design, sta8ng “Choose Life”, however a later slogan (“Use a condom”) managed to cause quite a s8r when Naomi Campbell took to the runway in 2003 with it in sequins across her sheer halter top. Hamned‘s designs and vision freely voiced her opinions. Her mee8ng with then-prime minister Margaret Thatcher in 1984 would be a perfect example of the same. She went donning her tee exclaiming “58% Are Opposed To Pershing” – a reference to a recent poll on sta8oning of nuclear missiles in the UK. It wasn’t surprising that a photo of the encounter was the year’s most widely-published image.
90s Alexander MCQ Rape Collection. When it comes to speaking up and voicing opinions without any inhibi8ons, Alexander McQueen’s name cannot go unno8ced. As a designer he ooen tended to express his opinions through his clothing, using them as a medium to protest against the wrong. One such memorable collec8on of his was the A/W 95 collec8on, the presenta8on was staged in protest of domes8c violence against women. Deeply affected by the abuse his sister endured from her rela8onship, it was an issue very close to his heart. So taking a bold stance to rally against this, then the designer referenced the “ethnic cleansing” rapes commided by the Bri8sh army in the Scorsh Highlands during the 18th and 19th centuries. Models were depicted looking badered and bruised, with torn clothing hanging from their bodies — in what turned out to be a largely misunderstood and thus controversial move at the 8me. As with many great visionaries though, it was only really in retrospect that people were able to appreciate the poli8cal message at the core of the clothing
00s Jean - Charles de Castelbajac Obama. A collec8on can be seen as the voice of a designer, who ooen tend to mould designs in order to express and voice their opinions. Be it in the form of protest or a tribute. Jean Charles de Castelbajac’s S/S 2009 collec8on had a garment that was a clear depic8on of the lader “The Obama dress”. Obama's ‘charisma, concern for change and concern for young people inspired Castelbajac immensely.Made with a mass of 500,000 sequins, making up an image of Obama’s face on the front of the silk sa8n dress, represented the mass of people inspired by him. The back of the dress recreates Mar8n Luther King’s poli8cal manifesto; I have a dream emblazoned in the form of a ‘pure university poster’, whilst a badge from Obama’s university adorns the right shoulder of the dress in a way to remember his educa8on and forma8on. The dress was also very voter friendly: a ‘yes’ glove covers the right hand. This ‘one-of-a-kind’ dress was not for sale (though produc8on price would be around 3,000 Euros) and came about as a selfdeclared ‘manifesto’ of the designer's feelings. ‘Impressed’ by the democra8c candidate’s charisma.
Through the case studies we witnessed how the fashion world is immensely involved in voicing political issues. Among those leading figures in political activism inside the industry, there are two important figures who have made a significant influence over the entire industry. Anna Wintour and Vivienne Westwood. They have been politically active over the years and have been great influencers among the society.
5 INFLUENCERS
ANNA WINTOUR There is no one in the fashion world quite as powerful as Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue US, whose influence is far more than just the sphere of style and seeps into politics as well. Last year, Vogue made its first presidential endorsement of supporting Hilary Clinton. Ms.Wintour referred it “Obviously we felt it was a moment in history for women. At times like that you need to take a leadership position, to me it was in support of woman.” It was the first time for Vogue, but not for Anna Wintour. She has been politically active over the decades and has obviously influenced many. Long before, Wintour was one of the top fundraisers for the Obama campaign. She also lent her influence to legalize the same-sex marriage in New York and to fashion industry’s fight against HIV and AIDS in the early ‘90s. For Barack Obama’s reelection campaign, Wintour organised a group called ‘Runway to Win’ and recruited a quite of a team including Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg, Alexander Wang, Jason Wu and Rachel Roy to design items to benefit Obama Victory Fund. During NYFW, she also hosted a fundraising event using her power in fashion as a political influence. On the cover of this year’s March issue, Vogue featured seven models of different ethnicities and body shapes including Ashley Graham to emphasize ‘inclusion’. The cover cites “Women Rule!”, “The Beauty Revolution, where no norm is the new norm.” Wintour added “Women have been on everybody’s mind after recent results” referring to the 2016 presidential election. She also openly supported the immigration, as an immigrant herself. In a video by Vogue she said “The things I have noticed on the runways, both in New York and London, has been a celebration of diversity. At a time when immigration is so much on people's minds, it's wonderful the designers have acknowledged that, showing the world that the fashion world is a very inclusive place.” According to her interview, she expects that designers will be inspired by what they see and that will come out in their work. And she believes that Vogue’s mission is to recognize that and support that and bring that to the audiences.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Over the decades, no one has been as politically active as with Dame Vivienne Westwood. She has used runway and even olympics as a platform to voice her political views on everything. Here are the most influential and historical acts by Dame Viv over time. In 1977, Westwood launched t-shirts emblazoned with a bold red Nazi swastika, an inverted image of Christ on the cross, the word “DESTROY,” and Sex Pistols lyrics. It was about standing up against dictators around the world, challenging the older generation saying that “We don’t accept your values or taboos.You’re all fascists.” In 1989, Westwood mocked then-Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher on the cover of Tatler. A few days later it was published, the magazine’s editor got sacked. Still Westwood was not reserving her opinion, she labeled her as a ‘hypocrite’ and a ‘real damage’ to the world. In 2005, Westwood again launched t-shirts reading “I AM NOT A TERRORIST, please don’t arrest me.” It was a bid to confront the government’s proposed anti-terror legislation and all the profits made from £50 t-shirts went to charity. In recent years, she has been more involved in the climate change. At the closing ceremony of 2012 London Paralympics, the designer dressed as an eco-warrior with “Climate Revolution” banner. She cited that “Climate revolution is the ultimate revolution; if we don’t win that, there won’t be many of us left.” Under the same concerns, she cut off her famous red hair to highlight the danger of climate change. On the world water day of 2014, Westwood appeared in a PETA campaign for vegetarianism in only a shower cap. She asked the viewers to avoid meat to preserve the world’s water supply referring to the factory farms. Since 2015, Westwood has been a huge supporter of Green Party, for her A/W 15 collection, she wrote in show notes “VOTE GREEN”, simple but emphasizing. Followed by “controlled by the 1% of the world population who are in power. They preach consumption, and they preach war, and they’re taking us into disaster. We are in incredible danger. There is no point in voting for the others.” It was a clear political message. Even though herself is an English, she doesn’t hesitate to speak out pro-Scottish independence. She accessorised her models and herself with ‘YES’ badges in S/S 15 collection, in order to urge Scots to vote ‘YES’. Her dedications over the years to speak up her voice made huge influence over the industry, making other designers and brands to follow her steps gradually.
CONCLUSION Today, more than ever before we are witnessing the fashion industry making strong and effec9ve poli9cal statements. But does it change anything? We are living in the constant flow of informa9on and images, wherein the impact of something that we see only lasts a couple of weeks. One minute we are all geared up taking a stand for something we truly believe in and before we know it it’s already fizzled out. However, history has a way to repeat itself. Even though the issues at large sadly remain the same, while back in 9me only a few had the courage and most importantly the opportunity to speak up now the movement is more widespread with new and more fierce voices. Be it the miniskirts in the ‘60s or Dior's ‘We should all be feminists’, fashion has always had a rebellious side and fearlessly stood up for the issues prominent at the 9me. Fashion or now one can call it fashion ac9vism is and has always been a major driver for poli9cal change throughout history. However, some may argue that the excitement created by the short-lived hype of revolu9ons ignited by fashion may be used as a marke9ng tool by the fashion industry to aPract consumer aPen9on. Nevertheless, it s9ll gets us talking and helps spread awareness of the issue at hand. Yet, fashion has always been notably biased in its stance on poli9cal issues. Over the course of this study, we found that no one has argued about anything to do with China. The fashion industry is so against Trump, and very openly, but even if there are quite a lot of poli9cal issues around the Chinese government, no one has ever dared to stand up. This could only mean that the fashion industry is afraid of losing its customers with enormous spending power and poten9al. Coming to the future, will fashion’s poli9cal role in conveying messages of commitment with regard to social and current issues evolve in the close future? There could be two possible scenarios to this, either due to the overexploita9on of the topic over decades which over the last few years has escalated immensely due to social network, people will be so overwhelmed by the informa9on and images thrown at them that they would stop caring. Sheer numbness shall prevail in society. On the contrary, as consumers are evolving and now care more and more about ethics and sustainability while purchasing, the fashion industry would evolve along with consumers and would con9nue to be their voice and direct change like never before.
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