Sanctuary in Salalah

escapes

Sanctuary In Salalah

By Lynsey Riach Images courtesy of the Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah and Qatar Airways

A tropical getaway lies only a short hop, skip and a jump from our shores that will leave you believing you’ve travelled half-way across the globe to witness the natural beauty that is...Salalah, Oman.

S

alalah is a bit of a tongue-twister to pronounce, but it sure does sound pretty. Located at the southern tip of Oman, in the Dhofar region, it’s about an eight-hour drive from the capital of Muscat. This region is famous for its seasonal weather, locally known as ‘khareef’ when it witnesses its best period, taking on a completely different geographical persona than that of the familiar and well-known Muscat – or even other countries of neighbouring regions in the Middle East.

Upon my arrival at the tiny airport of Salalah I immediately felt transported in time, circa 1978. Visas are granted upon arrival for citizens of more than 60 countries. GCC nationals however do not require one. The airport reminded me of one on an isolated island I had once

City centre fountain

Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah

visited due to its basic but character-filled char. Even in the dark at 6:00 a.m., I was fixated at the greenery that welcomed me outside the airport. It was awe-inspiring as I gawped at tall, skinny coconut palm trees. Was this Sri Lanka? Because it sure looked like it.

September, people travel from all over to experience and enjoy the unique wonders of nature, rain, mist-soaked mountains, green-cloaked valleys, springs and waterfalls. There’s an authentic, rugged beauty to this area that transports you to the exotic.

For those in the know, the peak and best time to travel to Salalah is during khareef, which is their monsoon period and is an attraction in itself. Running between July-

As I headed to the hotel on the courtesy Crowne Plaza shuttle-bus, I watched a man on an old bicycle slowly graze past my window with the lanky palms

86

ABODE May-PS.indd 86

4/26/15 12:29 PM

Al Mugsayl Beach

as his backdrop. This was definitely not the Middle East…it couldn’t be?

I face-planted into my bed around 6:30 a.m. with my alarm set for six hours later. I lasted three hours as I itched to explore…and to be sure those coconut palms weren’t just a figment of my bleary-eyed travelers’ imagination.

I was feeling lucky. Qatar was, on that same day, experiencing the worst sandstorm it had seen in recent years and here was I beneath the sun beating down as I snaked my way through the Crowne Plaza’s pool and beachfront area. I ran onto the sand and was delighted – it was real, real sand not man-made. Waves crashed thunderously beside me. ‘This is the Indian Ocean’, I thought and it was powerfully beautiful.

There was a red flag at the lifeguard’s tower so I only dipped my toes into the refreshing froth to cool me down and let me just be in the moment of now.

I walked for around thirty minutes – in fact I did this each day of my stay as I was quite simply fascinated that this could be the Middle East. A short flight from the arid desert and Salalah was offering me nature, greenery, fresh air. Believe it or not, while the rest of the Arabian Peninsula hits 50+ degrees Celsius in the summer, Salalah never sees the mercury rise above 27 degrees. It’s the perfect getaway.

Take In The Sights A local guy working for the Crowne Plaza by the name of Abdullah took us for a short tour of the area – it was only a half-day with plenty more to see if you had longer. We really wanted to grab the feel of Salalah and

for me that was all about the jungle, the oxygen released from those plants giving such beauty and life…I just had to see and feel more of it. We headed to the centre of town which is old and dilapidated but life exists, with frequent bicyclists and people walking by past rundown restaurants and old-fashioned mosques.

Huge plantations dwarf the souq area where frankincense is sold by the camelload. Expect a language barrier while haggling. These plantations loom over stalls of fruit-sellers offering a range of exotic, yet all local fruits. I gulped down the freshest and most delicious coconut I’ve ever consumed – packed full of electrolytes. I always enjoy coconut water but on this occasion, I quaffed three in quick succession and pondered why on earth these aren’t imported to Qatar? The market trader sold us bananas, papayas and pomegranates. These stalls stretched around the block and the entire perimeter of the plantation. It felt more East Africa than Middle East.

Abdullah moved us on to see the summer residence of His Highness Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the ruler of the Sultanate of Oman’s palace. Grand but welcoming, it seemed modern and clean amidst such an historic town as Salalah. We continued down the road in search of more of what Salalah had to offer. Camels were to be seen on every corner, wandering onto the beach and across the road. We stopped frequently to take selfies and admire these ships of the desert surrounded by tropical jungle.

The lush 'khareef' season

birds from Africa, Europe and India all due to the abundance of food throughout the year.

Mugsayl Beach has winding caves and a craggy rock-face to offer dramatic photographic souvenirs. The beach is also home to some blowholes where a high tide offers a ‘dragons breath’ sound from below and then a sudden gush of ocean sprays upward. It’s exhilarating, especially when watching a family waiting for their Kodak moment get soaked!

The region is also a favourite for those looking to dive and experience what lies beneath. But perhaps one of the most well known products from this region is that of frankincense. From its namesake tree, frankincense is mentioned in many ancient history books and it’s trail through Yemen, Saudi Arabia and beyond all began in Salalah.

In addition to its aromatic fragrance and use as incense to aromatize houses, frankincense is also used as a therapeutic ingredient. Frankincense is a symbol of life, or rather it is life itself for the Dhofari people and you will see it used and sold widely across the region. Abdullah actually stopped at some local trees and showed us how the sap of the tree is what frankincense actually is. He also stopped off at the local souq to buy us some as a parting gift.

But if you do long to see the vastness of the desert in true Lawrence of Arabia style then a tour worth taking would be to the foreboding sounding Empty Quarter. The If wildlife is your thing then you’ll be biggest desert in the Arabian Peninsula, able to spot plenty in the Dhofar region. and void of any oasis, there are still large Camels aside, there are flamingos on most expanses of unexplored and uninhabited beaches and birdwatchers will delight in terrain that can be witnessed on an year-round sighting of many migratory organized tour.

87

ABODE May-PS.indd 87

4/26/15 12:29 PM

escapes

where to stay

Primarily a family hotel with 153 rooms and 19 three-bedroom villas, the Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah is spaciously set on its own grounds with no nearby properties infringing upon its location. Home to their own dive centre, the resort offers a variety The hotel's Royal Suite of activities from a par-three garden golf course, to beach volleyball. Enjoy lazy days and long nights under the towering a cocktail at the swim-up bar. If the sand coconut palms dressed up with fairy lights between your toes is more your thing as the waves crash nearby. then head on down to the vast beach where plenty of sun loungers await. It's Decorated in cream and gold, creating a also comforting to know that lifeguards peaceful retreat after a day spent in the keep watch over those waves and keen sun, I enjoyed a small terrace that took swimmers nearby. me out onto the communal garden where I practiced yoga daily under heavenlyWhen it comes time to feed the hunger scented frangipanis (my favourite). that fresh air has stirred up, you have Beyond my terrace was a glimpse of the two main restaurant choices. Darbat ocean, had I been on a higher floor I’m restaurant overlooks the infinity pool sure this would be quite a dramatic sight stretching out to the beach and offers a to take in each day. These Deluxe Garden standard buffet breakfast, a la carte lunch View and Deluxe Sea View rooms start at and dinner under one roof, plus indoor OMR 60 (QR 567) plus taxes, while during and outdoor seating – but we always the popular khareef season they can start opted for the view from the balcony. at OMR 110 (QR 1,039) plus tax.

The choice of food for a la carte was significantly more varied than that of the Wi-Fi is available free of charge in the breakfast, and the lunch service, although hotel but can at times be a little patchy quiet in the restaurant, could often be – but hey you’re here to relax so put the painfully slow. . phone away! And, if like me, you like to stay fit and healthy you can play a game The other dining option and my personal of tennis or squash, head to the gym for a favourite was the Dolphin Beach full workout or unwind with a massage at Restaurant, set beachside with that the health club salon. endless stretch of white sand within touching distance of my toes. Set in a Poolside you can see children frolic in relaxing, tropical ambiance where the their own mini water-park while you sip décor is the picturesque Indian Ocean,

Dolphin Beach Restaurant

this was more café by day serving salads, sandwiches and burgers, and al fresco restaurant by night with daily themed buffets.

For the two evenings we stayed at the hotel we enjoyed International and Arabic nights with a variety of starters, main courses and desserts on offer. I would say the food is still rather basic, but the ambiance is cute and quirky just like one of the servers, called Tran, who was exceptionally sweet and helpful in a sea of staff. At the Dolphin, the occasional smell of hubbly-bubbly sheesha pipes wafts over you as the stars twinkle and the clientele dwindles.

Whether to escape the searing summer heat that will soon enough engulf us, or just to enjoy a weekend of wanderlust, the Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah should be on your wish-list before the rest of the world catches on…

For further information call +968 2323-8000 or email reservations.cpsalalah@ihg.com

88

ABODE May-PS.indd 88

4/26/15 12:30 PM

how to get there I’ll be honest with you, who wouldn’t want to fly in luxury lying back in your very own bed? Well, before you even get to experience that part of your trip flying Business Class, you can relax pre-flight in the Oryx Lounge at the wonderfully allsinging and dancing Hamad International Airport, the new home of Qatar Airways, voted Best Business Class 2014 for the second year running.

savoury delicacies whenever you like (think warm cookies, warm nuts…) With unique flavours, beautiful food presentation, luxurious table linen and modern cutlery I felt rather spoiled. I could get used to this fine-dining in the sky thing.

The choice of food on a 1hr 40min flight was to be fair, exceptional – I opted for vegetarian lasagne served to me on a proper porcelain plate with proper Snacks and drinks are consumed by those silverware (not what you’re used to if, like with longer layovers or those just hopping me, you regularly fly economy). My dessert to a regional destination. Free Wi-Fi and an was a real treat...a Ladurée treat at 30,000 ample magazine and newspaper collection feet to be precise. I felt comforted to see keep you occupied as you recline in recognized brands such as Ladurée and designer chairs.

Nobu collaborating with Qatar Airways to Boarding announcements are made in offer such variety and such quality. person, which greatly helps to refrain you from checking the board every Attention has been made to every sensory five minutes and allows you to kick detail. I was informed on long haul flights, back business-style and relax. Comfort, designer sleepwear and a selection of convenience, choice. These are the things Giorgio Armani's finest amenities help that matter most to today’s traveler, and revive and refresh you. I wished for our thanks to Qatar Airways and their five-star flight to continue further across the globe service this was made possible on my trip just to string out the luxuries that little to Salalah. longer and then mid-fantasy, I blissfully nodded off.

Absolute comfort with absolute luxury makes for, of course, a very nice flying The Business Class cabin feels special, experience – even if we were delayed an almost isolated but familiar. It has been hour thanks to that apocalyptic sandstorm designed especially to offer comfort, that hit Qatar out of nowhere last month. spaciousness, and superb service with Sand aside, I was welcomed on board modern technology. Generous storage by happy and helpful staff, who quickly will keep your belongings within reach, produced with their onboard menu sophisticated LED lighting will help and offered a welcome drink before we you adjust to changing time zones and departed. The food menu allows you to an attentive and professional crew will take pleasure in signature dishes designed look after all of your needs. I really felt I exclusively for Qatar Airways by four experienced the beauty of great design celebrity chefs along with an on-demand and a high-tech oasis where you can relax, menu service that includes sweet or rest and dream.

On longer haul flights you can watch time fly by with thousands of entertainment options. Oryx Entertainment’s innovative system features an intuitive touch-screen to quickly find an array of movies, games and music to suit your taste. Multi-task with the world’s first dual-screen interface onboard the B787, play a game on your handheld device as you wait for a movie to load on your personal screen.

Just before we arrived into Oman I stirred from my dream state and was woken gently by the Business Class host. I decided to pop to the private washroom to freshen up. I was surprised to find a floral display alongside my favourite Molten Brown toiletries on display. It felt that these little touches along the way are what really set Qatar Airways apart from their competition and what made my flight in both directions so quick and so enviously enjoyable.

Flying to more than 140 destinations worldwide (I remember when I moved to Qatar four years ago they flew to 90 destinations) in a highly competitive market, Qatar Airways has achieved phenomenal route expansion, averaging 30% growth year-to-year and flying one of the most modern fleet of 134 aircraft in the skies today.

Qatar Airways flies to Salalah, Oman eight times weekly with fares starting from QR 2720 economy-class and QR 6150 businessclass round-trips.

For further information visit www.qatarairways.com 89

ABODE May-PS.indd 89

4/26/15 12:30 PM