Great Days Outdoors - April 2024

Patsaliga Creek Camp Hunting & Timber Retreat Crenshaw County, Alabama, 986+/-Acres

This rare waterfront property offers a chance to own a turn-key slice of paradise. It boasts an impressive 4+ miles of scenic waterfront with long views and beautiful sandbars provided by 2.2± miles of frontage along the picturesque Patsaliga Creek and 2± miles on Little Patsaliga Creek, giving you year-round fishing, boating, and swimming opportunities. The property features a 3-bedroom cabin overlooking a sprawling agricultural field, ideal for dove hunting and watching game from the porch. The cabin is equipped with both conventional power and solar/generator backup, and the multi-bay equipment sheds provides ample space for storing and maintaining your equipment. The hunting is fantastic, with trophy deer, turkey, wild hog, and waterfowl. Enjoy a network of large 20± food plots and multiple duck ponds, creating a habitat that attracts and sustains quality wildlife. Nature lovers and timber investors alike will appreciate the various timber types, consisting primarily of mature hardwood, complemented by mature pine plantations and some younger hardwood stands for ideal bedding habitat. It’s located near the town of Luverne, offering a perfect balance between seclusion and accessibility.

Alabama

Sawtooth Farms High Fence Hunting & Recreational Tract w/ Lodge Sumter County, Alabama, 568+/-Acres

This 568+/- acre Sumter County tract is a fantastic private retreat located in the heart of the Blackbelt! A true outdoorsman’s paradise, the property provides year-round recreational opportunities highlighted by spring turkeys, stocked lakes, dove fields, a duck pond, and world-class whitetails! In addition to the outdoor activities, the property also boasts a beautiful, rustic cabin with a large covered porch overlooking one of the lakes, making it the perfect place to unwind. The cabin, built in 2016, features 4 bedrooms, 2.5 baths, a wood-burning fireplace, and cedar, tile, and granite throughout. The land itself features great diversity, which is ideal for wildlife and includes thinned, mature pine plantation, bottomland hardwood, cedar thickets, Jones Creek frontage, ponds, and large, strategically-placed food plots. The property lacks nothing and includes 10 brand new premium Reneck and Ranch King shooting blinds. Additionally, there is a large barn to keep your tractor, ATVs, and other equipment out of the weather.

Along with hundreds of others across the entire United States

BEST BETS FOR APRIL

These are our top targets for hunters and anglers this month!

BY GREAT DAYS OUTDOORS EDITORS

LONESOME GOBBLERS

While it’s commonly accepted that the opening days of turkey season are the best time to bag a bird since they haven’t been pressured yet, one variable works in favor of hunters who stick out the season.

As the breeding season progresses, a gobbler’s harem starts to shrink. Bred hens break away from the flock to find nesting sights, lay their clutch, and incubate next year’s crop of turkeys. This means that a gobbler who’s still in the mood for love has to look harder to find it.

Keep this in mind during your next hunt. Gobblers may be wary if they’ve been hunted and shot at, but they’ll still respond to good calling and patience.

SPAWNING CRAPPIE

As the dogwoods begin to bloom, the crappie begin to spawn. For outdoorsmen willing to leave the turkey gun leaned up against the corner for a morning, some of the best shallow water crappie fishing of the year can be had right now.

When fishing shallow, consider abandoning the jigging pole in favor of an ultralight casting combo. A 1/16th oz chartreuse Road Runner jighead wearing a Z-Man Shad FryZ in Electric Chicken is the editor’s choice for searching out shallow crappie in water that may still be a little stained from the winter floods. The small underspin blade creates flash and vibration, and the paddletail on the Z-man bait wiggles irresistibly while holding up to multiple catches. Hi-vis, 2-4 lb test lets you cast further and cover more water, and allows you to watch your line for any suspicious change in behavior that may indicate a light-striking papermouth.

COASTAL MIGRATORS

As water temperatures warm into the 60s, cobia and pompano will start showing up along the beaches. To catch migrating Cobia off the Northern Gulf Coast beaches, utilize live bait such as eels or pogies, check structures like buoys or wrecks, In calm and clear conditions, anglers can find good success sight-fishing from a boat, ideally with a tower watching for their distinctive dark shapes near the surface. For pompano from the beach, use set rigs with shrimp or sand fleas as bait, casting beyond the breakers where they feed on sand fleas, and adjust rigs, beads and floats for optimal presentation.

VOLUME 28 ISSUE 4 APRIL 2024

PUBLISHED BY:

Great Days Outdoors Media, L.L.C.

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Butch Thierry

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Jarod Bosarge

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Sometimes Justin Dunnam has to pull his kayak over downed trees and logs to get it into those hidden waters containing early spring crappie .

Early Spring Crappie Fishing Tips

BY JOHN E. PHILLIPS

Every fisherman is looking for hidden waters that hold crappie that few if any other anglers fish. Until the popularity of fishing from kayaks, getting into waters like these was almost impossible. An angler had to get out of his craft and drag his lightweight aluminum boat or heavy canoe over very-shallow water and often debris in the water to reach a secluded, five-star fishing place.

Kayaks today are more in use than ever before, since they draft very-little water. These unique crafts have opened-up places where anglers can fish without seeing others. Justin Dunnam of Eight Mile, Alabama, has cracked the secrets on how to find and fish for these hidden crappie honey holes in the early spring.

Dunnam starts crappie fishing in December, primarily for black crappie in the Mobile Delta, as long as the weather’s consistent, and the rivers aren’t flooded-out. The main factor impacting Dunnam’s kayak crappie fishing is the water temperature. He prefers to fish water temperatures in the low 60s with these kayaks and tactics.

“I have three different kayaks: a Jackson Big Rig that has a fish finder on it; a smaller one, an 11-foot-long Jackson Kilroy, that’s good to get in smaller areas; and the Big Rig that’s about 14 feet long. Then I have a Jackson Cuda 14, which is a very-narrow kayak, and it’s made for going fast offshore in salt water. Most of the time I use my Jackson Kilroy to get into secluded areas that other people can’t reach to fish.”

To pinpoint places to crappie fish with his kayak that other crappie fisherman can’t get to or won’t try to reach, Dunnam uses Google Earth, Google Maps, Yahoo Maps and Apple Maps. He likes to use so-many different maps because each one may show a different stage of the river. “For instance, one of the maps may illustrate a flooded river,” Dunnam says. “Another map may show the river being low. I use topographic maps, as well as satellite maps, to try and find concealed entrances to oxbow lakes and tidal sloughs.”

WHERE AND HOW DUNNAM FISHES AND WHY

“If you’re looking for one of these hidden gems to catch crappie, search for a place that’s so small that most boats can’t get into it,” Dunnam reports.. “I like to find a place that’s three to four miles away from any boat ramp, because most kayak fishermen don’t want to paddle that far to hopefully get into a honey hole spot like the ones I fish. I’ll study the maps to locate fishing spots three or four miles from any boat ramp.

“Also, if the entrance to the place looks like a nothing stream, and I’m going to have to cut limbs to get into this area, then that place will probably be a golden spot, if the depth and the water temperature and the tide are in my favor. Sometimes you can return to these same honey holes year after year and fish them successfully. However, remember that these little oxbows are constantly being filled-in with siltation year after year. So over time, what may have been a productive hot spot for several years may shallow-up and be gone forever. But usually these obscure places are good for several years before siltation in them overtakes them.

“One of the big advantages to where I fish is I can check when the tidal movements will be before I go. You can get that information on the NOAA weather website. For instance, you can type in, ‘Mobile River stage at Barry Steam Plant.’ The bite there usually will be good for a month to 1-1/2 months after January into the first of March.”

For the best spring crappie fishing, search for a small place where most anglers can’t go and fish.

After Dunnam has done everything possible to learn all he can about the regions he may want to fish, then he goes to them in his kayak. Often he’ll have to either cut trees or hanging branches to get into these out-of-the-way places. Sometimes he’ll have to drag his kayak into a spot to fish it.

“Each of the areas I fish has a different personality,” Dunnam emphasizes. “Once I get in to one of these places, I want to make sure there’s 8 to 12 feet of water. Then the crappie consistently will be there. The crappie will move shallow as they start to spawn. If the water’s deeper than 8 to 12 feet, that’s fine.’

“Sometimes I’ll discover a great-looking spot that I think will be perfect for catching crappie, but then when I go to it, it actually may be a shallow mud hole. Because the regions I’m fishing are subject to the tides, on the high tide, water will be pushed into these spots. Low tide will suck the water out of these places. If the crappie aren’t spawning, they’ll usually feed best on one of those tide changes.”

Dunnam reports that when there’s a high tide, the crappie generally will be concentrating just inside the mouths of the places he’s fishing to ambush food. He’s learned that high tide is usually the most productive to catch these crappie. If the tide’s low, the crappie often will be holding in the middles of these locations. However, spawning crappie usually will be holding in shallow water or in downed trees, downed logs and/or stumps.

“I try to float into these spots, because in cool weather, I don’t want to be getting in and out of my kayak to drag it to where I want to fish.” Dunnam explains. “I’ll often have to take a small hand saw or a camp ax to cut limbs to get into these places.

“Although these crappie in hard-to-reach places don’t receive very much, if any, fishing pressure, the crappie tend to be very skittish. You’ll have to be as quiet as possible in your kayak, or else you’ll spook the fish you’re trying to catch. Don’t tap your rod on the side of the kayak; don’t flop anything down in the kayak;, and if you’re putting anything down in your kayak, put it down really slowly.”

Dunnam reports that fishing in the Lower Mobile Delta, which is from Interstate 65 South, he catches primarily black crappie. When fishing above Interstate 65, he reports that you’ll catch some white crappie on the rivers that feed the Delta, as well as black crappie.

WHAT ABOUT DUNNAM’S EQUIPMENT

*Depth Finder: On Dunnam’s larger kayak, he has a Garmin Striker 4 depth finder. It’s a 2D depth finder, and Dunnam mainly uses it to determine depth and water temperature – not to locate crappie. However, sometimes he’ll identify submerged structure with it. He’s also searching for 60-degree water temperatures and wants to find that temperature fairly consistent for a few weeks in these places he’s fishing.

* Rods: Dunnam likes a Kuying Teton rod that he found online for about $110. “The rod is 6-feet long and has an ultra-light action,” Dunnam says. “You just about can bend it from the tip of the rod to the butt of the rod.”

* Reel and Lines: Dunnam likes a Shimano Curado BFS XG because it’s one of the only types of baitcasters that will allow him to cast a 1/16-ounce jig head.

“The main feature I like about this reel is that it has a shallow spool and an 8.3:1 gear ratio,” Dunnam reports. “I only put 30 to 40 yards of Yo-Zuri Hybrid 4-pound test line on the reel This co-polymer line is a fluorocarbon-coated monofilament that’s fairly inexpensive and fairly strong. I usually can fish that same line for five or six trips. But then if crappie start breaking off, I’ll replace it, since I only have 30 yards of line on my reel. The line comes with about 300 yards on a spool, so that spool lasts a long time.”

Although Dennam prefers 4-pound test line, if he’s consistently fishing muddy

water, he’ll probably use 6- or 8-pound test. But with that heavier line, he’ll lose some casting distance.

*Jigs: “If I’m fishing a bigger, bulkier jig, I can cast it about 25 yards,” Dunnam says. “If I’m fishing a lighter jig, I only may be casting it about 15 yards. I use a short, sidearm cast, because with a kayak, I can get fairly close to the crappie I want to catch. Due to the reel, the shallow spool and the rod all being so light, I can cast that little light jig without any backlash or overruns

“The jigs I’m using are Bobby Garland Mo’ Glo, which are straight-tail, soft plastic, 2-1/2 inch long grubs. But I’ve been experimenting with a Z-Man Micro Goat, which has a double kicker tail on it to imitate a crawfish. Besides the crawfish colors for jigs, I like chartreuse-white. However, if the water’s really muddy, I’ll fish black.”

*Cooler Bag: Dunnam likes to use a cooler bag rather than a plastic ice chest. He prefers the ICEMULE cooler that’s much like a backpack and has straps. It stands upright, and it has an air bladder in it. Your blowing into that air bladder gives the bag extra insulation to keep ice longer.

“I like the bag because it has soft sides and dampens the sound of the crappie flopping inside the bag,” Dunnam says. “I find these bags on the Internet.”

WHAT DUNNAM CATCHES

Although Dunnam’s fishing for crappie, occasionally he’ll catch a grinnell or a spoonbill cat. Most of the crappie he’s catching will measure 10 to 13 inches - a pretty big black crappie in late winter or early spring. If a lake’s only a few acres, he’ll generally catch 10 to 15 crappie before he heads back home. He very rarely keeps a limit of 30 crappie mainly since he doesn’t want to clean that many crappie, nor does he need that many crappie.

You can improve your crappie fishing in the early spring by following Dunnam’s recommendations.

BY HANK SHAW

https://honest-food.net

Butter Poached Fish

Prep: 20 mins • Cook: 20 mins • Total: 40 mins

Ingredients

• 1 to 2 pounds of skinless boneless fish or shrimp

• Salt

• 1 yellow squash

• 1 green squash, like a zucchini

• 1 large cucumber

• 3 to 6 radishes

• 1/4 pound fresh green beans

• 1/4 cup white wine or rice vinegar

• 1 pound unsalted butter

• Olive oil (optional)

• Black pepper

Instructions

1. Salt the fish well and set aside. Slice the squash, cucumber and radishes very thinly into rounds, ideally with a mandoline -- although a knife is fine. Slice the green beans thinly on the diagonal. Toss all the vegetables with a little salt and vinegar and set aside.

2. Melt the butter in a pot large enough to hold at least 1 piece of fish, and ideally 2, at a time, but small enough so that the pieces of fish are submerged. You can use more butter if you want to, or you can top things off with olive oil. You want the butter to be between 150°F and 170°F. When the butter hits the right temperature, pat the pieces of fish dry with paper towels and submerge in the oil. If the fish sizzles at all, lower the heat. You want the fish to cook gently. Let the fish swim in the butter for about 10 minutes for every 1/2 inch of thickness. One way to do this is to put the submerged fish into a 325°F oven for 15 minutes.

3. To finish the salad, add a little bit of the melted butter, or use olive oil, and toss well. Put some on everyone’s plate. Gently lift out the pieces of fish and lay them on the salad. Grind lots of black pepper over everything. Serve with some good crusty bread.

Important Information:

Apple Maps

https://www.apple.com/maps/

Bobby Garland Jigs

https://www.lurenet.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=+Bobby+garland+jigs Garmin Depth Finder

https://www.garmin.com/en-US/c/marine/chartplotters/ Google Earth

https://earth.google.com/web/ Google Maps

https://www.google.com/maps

ICEMULE Cooler

https://icemulecoolers.com/collections/coolers

Jackson Kayaks

https://jacksonkayak.com/ Kuying Teton Rod

https://baitfinesseempire.com/product/kuying-teton/ NOAA Weather Website

https://www.noaa.gov/weather Shimano Reels

https://fish.shimano.com/en-US/product/reels.html

Yahoo Maps

https://www.maps.net/yahoo-maps

Yo-Zuri Hybrid Line

http://www.yo-zuri.com/products/archives/category/YO-ZURI/Hybrid Z-Man Jigs

https://zmanfishing.com/

Capt.

richard.rutland@yahoo.comwww.coldbloodedfishing.com

Speckled

richard.rutland@yahoo.comwww.coldbloodedfishing.com

richard.rutland@yahoo.comwww.coldbloodedfishing.com

Speckled Trout Tripletail Redfish Flounder USCG Licen d & InsuredDauphin Island Alabama Inshore

Tripletail Redfish Flounder USCG Licen d & InsuredDauphin Island Alabama CAPT. RICHARD

USCG Licensed & Insured

USCG Licensed & Insured Dauphin Island, AL

Capt.

Capt.

Capt. Richard Rutland 251.459.5077

Capt. Richard Rutland

Capt. Richard Rutland

Image courtesy of Holly A. Heyser

BOWHUNTING TURKEYS

A realistic, collapsible decoy like this lightweight, collapsible model from Avian X will help divert a wary gobbler’s attention as you slowly draw and aim

into a target at various ranges keeps your shooting muscles toned, alerts you to equipment or form issues, and tightens your groups. Whether you choose a more traditional bag target, a block type, or a realistic 3-D model, first verify that it’s adequate for your bow’s speed.

Remember, if you hunt from a sitting or kneeling position, you will need to incorporate these shots into your practice routine. Below are a few target suggestions to help prepare archers to zero in on a turkey’s kill zone.

When choosing an archery target for turkey hunting practice, consider the following factors:

• Budget- 3D targets are the most expensive option, followed by foam block targets and bags.

• Durability- Foam block and bag targets are generally more durable than 3D options.

• Size- A target that approximates the size of the turkey you’re targeting to hunt is the best option.

• Pose- Choose a 3D target made in a posture you will likely encounter and is easy to reposition for various shot angles.

• Arrow type- Make sure your target is compatible with the arrows and points you’ll be using.

3D TARGETS

These realistic foam targets are an excellent choice after your bow is tuned and the sights are adjusted. They come in various sizes and poses so you can closely match the type of turkey you hunt. Bailey explained that he had encountered several 3-D models where the outlined kill zones were inaccurate, so verify the accuracy of the vitals on your target and create a more precise aim point with a bright marker if necessary. Popular models include:

• Rinehart Tom Turkey

• Delta McKenzie 3D Target Strutter Turkey

• Real Wild 3D Walking Turkey

FOAM BLOCK TARGETS

This durable option incorporates a high-density foam designed to stop the fastest arrows. Some use a series of layers designed for broadhead use, and a few have more than four sides.

• Morrell Vital Signs 2

• Rinehart 18-1

• Blackout 4-Sided Layered Foam

BAG TARGETS

These are primarily designed for field points and are speed-rated. They are portable and the most affordable option.

• Delta McKenzie Speedbag 20

• Morrell Yellow Jacket Supreme

• BIGshot Ballistic 450X

BEST ARCHERY GEAR FOR TURKEY HUNTING

Whether you shoot a recurve, longbow, compound, or crossbow, familiarity with your equipment is necessary to keep those arrows in the bullseye. Sorting/weighing arrows, broadheads, practice tips, and maintaining fletchings is part of a routine required for consistency.

Bailey is one of many compound shooters who reduce their draw weight for turkey season. He chases turkeys with a bow adjusted 5-8 pounds less than his whitetail setup. Bailey explained that a lower draw weight makes for a smoother pull and allows an archer to maintain a full draw longer.

A turkey’s vitals require greater accuracy than do deer. That smaller target means extended practice sessions with finely tuned equipment. Every archer has a personal maximum range, and a good rangefinder takes any guesswork out of the shot equation. Bailey said he uses a smaller front stabilizer and ensures the finish on every piece of his archery equipment is dark or covered in a dull camo finish.

CALLS

Bailey recommends learning to use a mouth call to avoid any unnecessary movement associated with traditional box and slate models. Whether you use a slate, box, or diaphragm to coax a strutting gobbler closer, know that any excess motion can quickly end a hunt, so practice with whatever call you use to minimize the chances of being detected.

Bailey said Woodhaven and Zink produce his go-to calls, and although he hasn’t used push-button calls in a while, the Lynch model would be his choice.

Woodhaven- Mike Pentecost began making calls over 20 years ago and produces a variety of highly acclaimed models in Heflin, Alabama. He has partnered with champion callers Scott Ellis and Billy Yargus to create calls to fool the wariest gobblers.

Zink Calls- Award-winning call maker Fred Zink produces an extensive line of custom calls in Irving, Texas, used by dedicated turkey stalkers throughout the US.

Lynch Calls- M. L. Lynch, a carpenter from Homewood, Alabama, decided he could make a living selling his sought-after calls and began his company in 1940. His legacy lives on, and his namesake company produces an expanded line of time-tested models in Boston, Georgia.

This is an excellent example of blind placement with additional brush added to create a near-perfect bowhunting setup

ARCHERY TURKEY SHOT PLACEMENT

As a rule, fixed and rear-deploying mechanical broadheads have fewer problems with feather penetration. The thicker quills can decrease penetration where a head’s blades fold forward. Bailey explained that several large-diameter blades are available for turkeys but that a standard broadhead works well when precisely placed into the vitals.

Drawing back on an alert bird is nearly impossible. That’s where a strategically placed decoy can be an excellent investment. Position it where an approaching turkey’s gaze will be diverted from your location to afford a better shot.

Frontal- Just below the beard is a great shot, but avoiding that gaze can be tricky.

Broadside- Follow the legs up to the drumstick and aim a few inches forward for a direct path to the vitals.

Rear- A turkey’s exit hole is the perfect entry point that results in a quick kill.

BEST BLIND FOR BOWHUNTING TURKEY

A blind can help conceal an archer’s movements but can burden the run-andgun style hunter. Bailey suggests using a tent with a black interior and ensuring your clothing and equipment blend in to avoid being silhouetted

Your hunting destination can significantly influence your choice of blind. If you have a tried-and-true location, setting up and brushing in your setup before your hunt is a great option. A lightweight minimalist model might work better if your hunt is on a less familiar property where you’re still learning the terrain. Bailey has used blinds extensively but prefers to hunt without one. However, he highly recommends a quality three-legged swiveling stool to shoot from.

Sturdy hub-style blinds dominate the market, though collapsible, spring steel framed models are another alternative. Take note of the surrounding vegetation where you hunt and choose a model with a camo pattern that best blends with where you will locate.

If you’ve scouted a good staging location, consider setting up a blind a few days before your hunt. It’s essential to add additional foliage to reduce its visual footprint. Ground blinds come in various window styles and sizes, so choosing one boils down to personal preference. Primos, Muddy, Browning, and Ameristep are a few brands to consider when researching the best option to help conceal you and your bow. Between them, they have more than a dozen

models to choose from in an array of camo patterns, sizes, and price points.

BOWHUNTING TURKEY TIPS

Bailey said having a decoy to distract a turkey’s eyes makes a huge difference when the time to draw nears. The best call, blind, and decoy can get your target within range, but it boils down to timing and how concealed you are as you draw, aim, and release. It’s the difference between running to grab a pair of spur-lined legs and adding notes under the near-miss column of your hunting journal.

Patience and an intimate knowledge of where to place your broadhead for a humane kill are required before anyone walks into the early morning forest to engage in a feathered chess match.

It can take a while to become familiar with your specific hunting terrain. Excellent maps are a great tool, but thoroughly scouting your property before the season to locate potential roost sites, staging areas, and strut zones can pay dividends when it comes to knowing where to sit as you begin your conversation with a tree-bound turkey.

Taking late afternoon rides around your hunting land to call and pinpoint a roost will allow you to formulate a strategy to increase the odds that you will be in line with a gobbler’s fly-down and staging area.

Bailey said using a small chair to pivot slowly is crucial in close-quarter encounters and can’t be overstated.

BOWHUNTING TURKEYS WITHOUT A BLIND

You will need to find or create an ambush location that takes advantage of a good backdrop with plenty of vegetation to keep hidden. Excellent blind-building skills are a prerequisite for creating a brushed-in natural hide that provides concealment and room to draw.

It’s never too early to begin making plans for the first day of turkey season Fundamentals to Bowhunting

a lightweight folding

and saplings.

Bypass pruners work great for cutting smaller limbs to create openings for a natural blind. Wicked Tree Gear, Fiskars, or Felco offer a variety of models to quickly dispatch briars, vines, and smaller limbs for quickly brushing in your setup.

CONCLUSION

If you decide to match wits with these large birds, fine-tune your bow and invest in a realistic 3D turkey target, decoy, and quality blind. Set up a hunt situation for practice and have someone video as you call and draw your bow. Become fluent in their language and learn to minimize your every move, and you might get to witness the wing-dragging antics of a wily gobbler at full draw.

A quality folding saw, brush clippers, and a few feet of camo twine or oversized reusable twist ties like Nite Ize Gear Ties can help create a quick hideout. Choose

saw with a solid locking mechanism. Silkey, Primos, and Fiskars produce several models that make short work of limbs

Cobia Fishing Secrets From Sight Fisherman

BY TANNER DEAS

When it comes to targeting trophy fish, there’s never enough information, tips and tricks to discover what can aid in the next landing of a giant catch. There’s no shortage of truth to that statement especially when considering sight casting the elusive Cobia (Rachycentron canadum), also known as Black Kingfish, Ling or Lemonfish. Cobia are a popular game fish and are found all around the world in tropical waters as well as warm, temperate waters. Cobia’s cosmopolitan nature reflects its adaptability to different marine environments and its ability to thrive in diverse oceanic conditions. Ling are a pelagic fish, meaning they spend a significant amount of their life in open, offshore waters. Even though they spend most of their life in open water, these fish are also found in inshore and nearshore waters. Known for cruising the beaches alongside sharks and rays as well as for associating themselves with floating structures such as buoys, debris, cargo ships awaiting harbor and can even be found around the gas/oil platforms as well. These fish are known to be top predators and don’t seem to be picky eaters. Feeding on many variations of bait from squid to crustaceans and a plethora of even hardhead catfish, finding a meal. Cobia are in the thirty to fifty pound range but are known to get extremely large in size, even upwards of 100 pounds! Alabama’s state record Cobia was caught in 1995 and weighed in at 117.7 pounds, while the world record fish weighed in at 135 pounds and was caught in Western Australia in 1985. The world record fish was nearly five feet in length and had a girth of 52” wide. Ling are one of the tastiest fish available for harvest and are known for their delectable steak-like filets with a mild, lemon flavor that gives them the nickname Lemonfish. Their unique reproduction and growth rate as well as its worldwide availability makes Black K an optimal fish for commercial harvest. I had the pleasure of in Cobia fishing tournament competitor Luke Barton from the Chesape Bay and local Gulf Coast fishing guide, Capt. Richard Rutland of Blooded Fishing about some of their tips and tricks when it comes to targeting Ling.

to present the first or second bait that particular fish has seen all day, otherwise those fish may have seen upwards of five, ten or even fifteen baits and may not be interested in what you have to offer by the time he/ she has seen so many different or similar “unnatural” presentations. If you can time the Cobia run properly and take conditions into consideration, then as an angler, you’ll be giving yourself one of the earliest and best opportunities to catch a Cobia all year since that fish hasn’t been pressured yet.

WHAT TIME OF DAY IS BEST WHEN SIGHT

FISHING FOR COBIA?

It’s hard to pinpoint an exact time of when the best sight fishing time is, Capt. Richard says “always, just always man. You can’t sight cast em from the sofa!” Fish seem to historically bite best at dawn and dusk however it’s much easier to see these fish and accurately cast on them from late morning to mid afternoon when the sun is at its highest point. You can see these Ling well in almost any direction when the sun is up at noon. Richard says he’s a morning person so often he’ll find himself running the boat as far as he can towards the sunrise, to the East, so that he can put the sun to his back and fish the route back home to the West while being able to see and avoid the glare of the sun in his face. Having a tower boat like Richard’s 2024 Contender Bay 26 is truly a game changer and allows you as the captain or recreational angler to be positioned above the fish and truly gives almost a birds eye view that makes it much easier to see these fish no matter what time of day it is.

TIMING THE COBIA RUN

Choosing the right time to target a certain species and its movements can be everything, especially with a migratory fish like Cobia. For our area here in coastal Alabama, Capt. Richard says the old timers have a saying surrounding these fish and that generally these fish start showing up around Tax Day (April 15). To Captain Richard, the old timers saying is a good one but the key element to timing the run on these fish is water temperatures.

Capt. Rutland goes on to say that once those water temperatures start creeping up around 66, 68 and 70 degrees is when it really starts to peak his interest and Cobia tournament fisherman Luke Barton says he really feels like these migratory fish are driven by water temperatures

So once these water temps start getting around 66 and 68, that’s when Richard will start thinking he should give it a try and usually he’ll start making some phone calls and putting his ear to the ground to see if anyone has started to see any signs or catch any here and there. When targeting these fish by sight casting, it can be crucial as a fisherman

HOW CAN YOU USE THE SUN TO YOUR ADVANTAGE WHEN SIGHT FISHING FOR COBIA?

When sight fishing these fish the Sun can be used to your advantage big time. Before we even get to to mention that a quality when fishing on these bright spring, summer days and trying to target Cobia on surface. Luke Barton uses Smith Optics Chromapop Lenses and swears by these shades when he’s standing in the tower browsing the water surface for Ling. An example of using the sun to your advantage comes into play with what Richard mentioned in the section before, putting the sun to your back and playing angles of the light to allow you to see certain sides of the boat and certain areas better than others. Keep that in mind when you’re fishing throughout the day, covering certain areas and certain sides of the boat in one light and other areas when the light switches that now allows you to have a better view of the opposite side of the boat from before. Another example of using the Sun to your advantage is when fishing structures. When circling around structures, whether that’s channel buoys, anchor lines, oil/gas rigs or cargo ships and shrimp boats, there’s always one side of the structure that you can see better down into the water column than others. Circle around those structures, using the sun to cast light through any cracks or reveal any shadows of a fish that may be associated with that area. Another way to use the Sun is to find a depth line along the beach and zig zag along it, for Capt. Richard here along Alabama’s Gulf Coast, that optimal depth line for him is somewhere around 20-40ft. in depth. This zig zagging motion whilpe cruising along the beach allows the angler to cover different depths and to see things from the left side of the boat and then see things to the right side of the boat creating a sort of window that keeps you out of what Richard

HOW TO CATCH A COBIA

Cobia, Ling, Black Kingfish, Lemonfish or whatever you want to call them…. Are absolute dogs when it comes down to fighting. These fish are insanely challenging to catch and actually putting one in the boat is a feat that any angler should be proud of. The first step to catching one, is being out there, locating these fish and actively targeting them. The next is to have the right gear and to be properly prepared for getting on these fish, the right rod, proper reel and correct live bait or lure selection can truly be the difference maker in turning those fish mid-fight, casting, and getting bit. Another thing to keep in mind is that in all scenarios, Cobia are not just going to be in the upper water column, different tactics and rigging may be used to fish throughout the water column all the way to the bottom rather than just sight casting these fish. The next thing to remember is a proper gaff or like Luke Barton uses, a net. Lemonfish don’t like to come into the boat easily and unlike Virginia where Luke lives, in Coastal Alabama’s waters these fish can be hit with the gaff once they’ve come up to the boat if they’ve been determined to be legal size. Once poked, these fish tend to do an alligator-like death roll and do anything to throw the gaff. One quick stick and sweeping motion directly into the boat is the most optimal way to put one of these fish on the deck once it’s been hit with the gaff. Another thing that Richard adds to this topic is positioning your cast and properly leading the fish without spooking the potential fish or school before they’ve had a chance to see your bait. Meaning, don’t throw directly in line with the fish or on top of the fish either, lead the fish with your angle and your cast by about 20-25 ft. Being careful not to disrupt or scare the fish and leading the fish this way really increases the chance of presenting your bait well to the fish without as much risk of spooking it. Luke Barton adds another cool perspective saying when they’re approaching a school of fish, the jig is what’s thrown first, that way if the fish don’t chase the jig then usually they still stay up and then you’re able to target them with live bait. If you go in live bait first, the fish may go down and never eat your bait and now you’ve taken away an opportunity for that fish to eat again, really cool perspective and tip. Capt. Rutland was careful to mention three other things, take note of which way the fish is headed, where the boat is positioned and any possible structures those fish could swim towards to potentially break you off before you make your cast and hook up with a fish. This allows you to have a mental gameplan of the most optimal way to find this fish and put it in the boat.

BEST BAIT FOR COBIA

Cobia are voracious feeders that will devour almost anything in sight. These fish are known to have various types of species found in their stomachs when they find themselves on the wrong side of the cleaning table. From mantis shrimp and crabs to hardhead catfish and stingrays or anything else in between, these guys are seemingly not picky at all. However, there is a common favorite that experienced Ling fisherman have leaned towards: live eels. Other live baits that are good choices are croakers, hardtails, horn bellies, cigar minnows, spanish sardines, pinfish, and menhaden (also referred to as bunker or as a pogy). Luke Barton mentions a cool tip about taking your live bait and almost working it like a lure in front of those fish, whether a single swimmer, small school or a whole wolfpack coming at you, this extra action and struggle of your bait could make for the easy meal one of those fish simply cannot resist.

COBIA FISHING LURES

There are several different types of lures used for Cobia fishing, larger style presentations tend to be the way to go. Eel imitations (Capt. Richard specifically mentions Hogy Eels), feather/bucktail jigs with curly tail trailers, and large swimbaits are go to choices when casting lures at these fish. These lures are typically heavy enough to get nice long casts and be worked upper column when sight casting while still having the option to allow it to sink into the middle - lower column when targeting these fish subsurface or on bottom.

PICKING THE BEST COBIA RIG

There are several different ways to rig up when fishing for Cobia. When fishing with live bait there seem to be three main options, freelining a free-swimming bait in the upper-middle column, a knocker rig, and a

carolina rig. These three different riggings allow you to fish a little bit differently each way. The freelined live bait set up is perfect for sight casting scenarios and allows an angler to pitch a live bait out where he or she deems fit in order to get bit or to let the bait swim down to the upper-middle column. The knocker rig is perfect for fishing the lower-middle column where those fish suspend on bait balls and under structure as well as on the bottom. The carolina rig is perfect for fishing on bottom and allowing that bait to struggle and kick around on bottom til something swimming down there is curious enough to pick it up. Each one has different(ish) applications and when the fish are on top or mid column then freelining or using a knocker rig with a lighter egg weight is the way to go. When the bait and the fish are on bottom then a heavier knocker rig or heavy carolina rig should be tied up and used to target those fish in those types of situations.

COBIA RIG MAINLINE, LEADER, KNOT AND HOOK RECOMMENDATIONS

When tying up for Cobia and preparing your gear to battle these fish, there’s two perspectives that Richard brings to light. Capt. Richard says when fishing open waters along the beach or casting on free swimming fish away from structure something as light as 30-60 pound braided mainline and 30-40 pound fluorocarbon leader is acceptable because the fish can be played and doesn’t have to be horsed in with a lot of strength/resistance. While when around structure, 40-60 pound braided mainline and 60-80 pound fluorocarbon leader is needed, maybe even 100# depending on how heavy the structure is and how close the fish have positioned themselves in relation to that structure. The main line to leader knot used by Capt. Rutland is the improved albright/alberto knot, the uni to uni knot is also a good option but depending on the size of your guides the uni to uni can be too wide to smoothly cast/reel in. When tying to the hook the clinch knot is sometimes acceptable however, it is much weaker than Capt. Richard’s preferred Palomar knot and when going to battle with a big fish like a Cobia it’s best to have the strongest knot possible. Richard goes on to say that hook size should be based off of your bait size, when using a knocker rig or pitching out smaller sized baits then he likes to use a 4/0 or 5/0 Owner SSW. When using those riggings for larger baits (ex. Bigger hardtails, hardhead catfish, white trout) then he likes to opt into a 6/0 SSW. When fishing a Carolina rig or what he calls a sow rig, Richard likes to opt into a 6/0 circle hook and feels like it ends up in the corner of the mouth almost every time when targeting those fish on bottom like that.

CHOOSING THE BEST COBIA ROD AND REEL FOR SIGHT FISHING

When choosing a setup for sight casting on Cobia, you’ll want a rod that offers a good balance of sensitivity, accuracy and power. Richard thinks a spinning rod is the way to go, especially when sight casting. Keeping length, power, action, and other factors in mind, a 7’ to 7.5’ rod should work well for these fish. Something around MH power with a Fast or Xtra Fast tip to offer plenty of sensitivity when freelining or attempting to sight cast with live baits. Matching this type of rod with a size 6-8000 spinning reel should get the job done easily and efficiently against these heavy hitters.

COBIA FISHING CONCLUSION

In conclusion, sight casting a Ling should definitely be on your list of things to do as a saltwater fishing angler. Sight casting these fish is an exhilarating and challenging experience that requires a specific approach, patience, technique and a little bit of luck. Combining the thrill of the chase with the need for precision and observation, these fish are truly a trophy target. Not only are these fish extremely adept fighters and migratory global travelers, they’re also one of the most delicious fish to harvest and eat. With their steak-like density and mild, lemon-like flakes, this delicious brown and white fish is high on the list as many peoples favorite. With the right gear, techniques, tips and tricks you can significantly increase your chances of landing these exhilarating and exciting fish. From Luke’s tournament secrets to Capt. Richard’s long time fishing experiences there’s plenty to learn and unpack in this one. Hopefully these interviews and this article led to a new tool you as anglers can add to the toolbox that increases your ability and opportunities to get one of these fish in the boat.

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Trolling Motor Troubleshooting Before You Buy

BY NICK WILLIAMS

It’s hard for me to imagine a day on the water without a good trolling motor. They’re simply indispensable when it’s time to fine-tune your boat position, whether that involves maneuvering around docks and marinas or staying on top of fish.

There have been some big changes in trolling motor and trolling motor battery performance in recent years, and many anglers find themselves looking to upgrade to take advantage of new technology. New units offer cool features such as contour line following abilities, GPS anchoring, brushless motors, and built-in transducers. But these features come at a cost, as does the added performance offered by lithium batteries.

Before you sink good money into a trolling motor, it’s worth taking the time to think through potential problems. Recently we caught up with William Montgomery at Blue Water Ship store in Foley, AL, to talk about common pitfalls to avoid when purchasing a new trolling motor.

WHAT SIZE TROLLING MOTOR DO I NEED?

One of the first problems to head off at the pass when shopping for a trolling motor is making sure that you buy a unit that fits your boat and the intended usage. Trolling motors are commonly grouped according to shaft length, thrust ratings, and voltage ratings.

TROLLING MOTOR SHAFT LENGTHS

“When you’re shopping for a trolling motor, you can start the selection process by either looking at the thrust rating or the shaft length,” says William. “Personally, I start with the shaft length. And what you want to do to determine shaft length is to get your boat in the water, and load it just like

you were going to go fishing. Get some passengers, fill the fuel tank, pack all of your gear, put ice in the ice chests, just a full load with everything where it will be when the boat’s in use. Then, take a tape measure and measure the height from the bow where you’re going to mount that motor down to the waterline.”

William continues, “Once you have that number, you can go to a trolling motor manufacturer’s website and reference a chart telling you how much they recommend adding to that number so that your shaft gets the prop down in the water where it needs to be. Typically, you’re looking at adding a foot to twenty-four inches. But that can increase depending on what kind of seas you expect to encounter. The rougher the water, the longer your shaft will need to be.”

Having the right length shaft prevents the prop from ventilating or riding up out of the water entirely, which can quickly rob you of large amounts of performance.

TROLLING MOTOR THRUST RATINGS

Once you know how long of a shaft you need, the next question is how much thrust your motor needs to be able to maneuver your boat.

“For a ‘down-and-dirty’ rough estimate, you’re going to need about two pounds of thrust for every one hundred pounds of boat,” Williams says. “So if you have a five-thousand pound boat, fully loaded and ready to fish, you’ll need about one hundred pounds of thrust. Again, there are some manufacturer’s charts you can consult, but that’s a quick ballpark. And, when in doubt, always round up to the next size.”

By taking the time to do the math on what your boat weighs and how high your bow will ride above the waterline, you can avoid buying a motor that is underpowered for your vessel.

12V VS 24V VS 36V TROLLING MOTORS

The more thrust a motor puts out, the more energy it has to draw to provide that thrust. Therefore, with bigger trolling motors, 24v and even 36v systems are the norm.

“You’re not going to be able to get a very high thrust rating with a 12v system,” William says. “As a general rule, you can get about thirty to fifty-five pounds of thrust off of a 12v system; seventy to ninety off of a 24v system, and once you get up to one hundred to one-hundred fifteen pounds you’re going to need a 36v system.”

He continues, “It really goes back to your boat weight, ultimately. A lot of guys may say, ‘Oh, I don’t want to have three batteries on my boat,’ but you may not have a choice. If you have a big boat, you need big thrust, and that takes a lot of power to produce.”

CHOOSING THE BEST TROLLING MOTOR BATTERY

This brings us to the second half of the trolling motor equation: the battery. Having the right size trolling motor means very little if you don’t have enough juice to run it. It can be tempting to skimp on batteries, but doing so is a recipe for frustration.

WHAT SIZE BATTERY DO I NEED FOR MY TROLLING MOTOR?

The answer to this question, according to William, is, “The biggest one you can cram in there!”

“In general, we recommend that everybody use a good, true deep cycle battery. Not a starting battery, not a dual purpose battery, but an actual deep cycle battery. And those are going to start in the group 24 or group 27 size, but we really recommend a big, heavy duty group 31. Especially if you’re

going to be tournament fishing or asking that motor to spot-lock you offshore all day.”

LITHIUM TROLLING MOTOR BATTERIES VS TRADITIONAL DEEP CYCLES

Big, lead-acid, group 31 deep cycle batteries are mighty heavy, and multiples take up a lot of space on a boat. I was excited to hear in our conversation that it was now possible to buy a single, 24v or 36v lithium battery

“We’ve started to install a lot of lithium batteries,” Will says. “And it’s pretty cool to be able to have a battery that has roughly the form factor of a single 12v, group 31 battery, but it’s the equivalent of three of those batteries chained together. It takes up a lot less space in a console or locker for sure.”

Boaters who have looked into lithium batteries know that you pay a pretty penny for lithium compared to lead-acid, but Will reminded us in our talk that it’s important to consider the total lifespan of batteries when calculating cost.

“Lead-acid is cheaper than lithium,” he says, “but do the math this way. If you have a 36v trolling motor, you need three batteries. And those batteries will typically need to be replaced after about 3 years. A lithium battery should be good for 10. So in 9 years time, you’ll have purchased 9 deep cycle batteries, and only one lithium battery. And the whole time, you’ve enjoyed having a little bit more storage space and a lot less weight in the boat.”

DO I NEED A SALTWATER TROLLING MOTOR?

While not everybody needs a saltwater rated trolling motor, according to William, most of his customers end up purchasing one, even if they fish freshwater.

“Depending on your boat,” he says, “a freshwater model may not be an option for you. A lot of manufacturers only make saltwater motors in the bigger sizes. So if you need a long shaft or a lot of thrust, that will be your only choice. But even if you fish more fresh or brackish water than salt, the saltwater models are nice because they come with better corrosion

protection than the freshwater models. Anodes, better paint, better sealing; things like that.”

TROLLING MOTOR ACCESSORIES AND UPGRADES

Boaters who are installing new trolling motors may be pleased to find that there are some pretty cool accessories on the market now that weren’t available when they bought their last motor, such as powered quick-disconnect brackets and built-in transducers.

“Something we’ve been installing a lot of are Power Pux,” William says. “And what that is, is a quick-disconnect bracket so that you can take the motor on and off the bow if you need to, but it also is your electric receptacle. So there are no wires on the deck; it’s just a really clean-looking installation. And those cost a little more, but at the minimum I’d recommend a standard quick-disconnect bracket. I can’t remember the last time we installed a motor without one. They’re just really handy if, for example, you’re going to be running a long way and don’t want to beat that motor up in the surf. Or if you’re just going on a pleasure cruise and want a bit more deck space. You just pull a pin, disconnect the power, and take the motor off.”

“Another thing that’s big lately is trolling motors with transducers and wiring built into the shaft and head,” he continues. “That’s another thing that just makes for a really clean install. You can have downscan, side scan, and live scope all built into the head of the trolling motor. It’s pretty neat.”

TROLLING MOTOR MAINTENANCE TIPS

Once you’ve picked out the perfect trolling motor for your boat, there are still a few more problems to anticipate in order to make sure you have trouble-free days on the water. According to William, the biggest problems he sees with trolling motors are the result of bad wiring and bad charging practices.

HOW TO WIRE YOUR TROLLING MOTOR

“The biggest thing when you’re wiring up your motor,” he says, “is to make sure that you’re using a heavy enough gauge of wire to handle that amperage. On top of that, make sure you have a good circuit breaker installed to protect the trolling motor and potentially prevent a fire if something goes wrong. Finally, it’s absolutely essential to make sure that those batteries are secured properly. You don’t want them tipping and spilling battery acid, or shorting out.”

HOW TO CHARGE A TROLLING MOTOR BATTERY

One everything is wired up correctly, correctly charging your trolling motor batteries is imperative to ensuring that you get the most life out of them and avoid trouble on the water.

“We like to install on-board chargers when we do our installs,” Williams says. “That’s just the simplest way to make sure that folks will actually do the right thing and charge those batteries immediately once they get back to the dock. You don’t want a lead-acid battery to sit empty any longer than necessary, and they will self-discharge over time. An on-board charger lets you just plug an extension cord into the receptacle once you’re done fishing, and it takes care of making sure that your batteries charge correctly and stay topped off.”

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, choosing the right size motor, powering it with the right battery, and taking the time or spending the money to have it properly installed will prevent a lot of common problems boaters have with trolling motors on their fishing boats. If you’re looking to upgrade your trolling motor and take advantage of the huge improvements that have been brought to market in recent years, be sure to take the time to make sure that motor and batteries will serve your needs on the water for years to come.

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Compact Tractor Buying Guide

BY DAVID STRICKLAND

Compact tractors, sometimes called utility tractors, are designed for smaller acreage and lighter workloads than traditional full-sized agricultural tractors. This class of machines is revolutionizing small-scale farming by offering a versatile and efficient alternative to their larger counterparts.

These models balance size, power, and maneuverability to meet the unique demands of landscapers, oversized residential properties, smaller acreage farms, and businesses. Many hunting clubs have also discovered that compact tractors are cost-effective and can save a lot of sweat equity as they maintain roads, bush hog, till, plant, and fertilize their fields.

To better understand what these compact workhorses are capable of and the array of optional equipment available, I spoke with Adam Haney of Haney Equipment near Cullman, Alabama. He’s the sales manager of this family-run equipment business that has been selling and servicing tractors since 1968. Adam explained the similarities and differences between various compact models. He said Haney Equipment sells & services an extensive line of compact tractors, including several models manufactured by LS Tractor .

Haney explained that LS Tractor offers compact models to fit almost any budget, and their two-year “Bumper-to-Bumper” and extended 6-year warranty make them an excellent choice.

UNDERSTANDING COMPACT TRACTORS

What is a Compact Tractor?

This class of tractors attempts to strike a balance between power and maneuverability. There is some diversity within this classification, and below are a few of the characteristics that help define machines within this classification.

• Size and weight- Compact tractors typically weigh between 1,500 and 4,000 lbs and measure between 80 and 120 inches long, which allows for increased maneuvering in tight spaces.

• Horsepower- Engine horsepower is generally between 25 and 55HP.

• Maneuverability- Compact tractors have a tighter turning radius and excellent maneuverability compared to larger models. Many have fourwheel steering for enhanced traction and pulling.

• PTO and 3-point hitch- Most compact tractors have a rear-mounted PTO (power takeoff) shaft to power implements and a three-point hitch to attach implements like loaders and mowers.

• Comfort and safety features- Compact tractors offer enclosed cabs or ROPS (rollover protective structure) for driver comfort and safety They often include power steering, hydrostatic transmission, and cruise

control.

• Affordable price- Compact tractors are generally priced lower than full-sized models, which makes them attractive for smaller acreages, landscaping jobs, and part-time farmers.

BENEFITS OF COMPACT TRACTORS FOR SMALL-SCALE FARMING

Compact tractors excel at a wide range of activities around smaller farms and hunting properties. Attachments such as front-end loaders and backhoes allow owners to complete projects often done using hand tools. Here is a small sample of the tasks these vehicles can perform.

• Plowing/Planting fields

• Mowing pastures

• Grading driveways

• Digging post holes

• Moving/Lifting heavy loads

• Landscape projects

Additional Benefits

• Ease of Use- Their user-friendly design simplifies operating and swapping the various optional attachments. Owners can often handle repairs and upkeep, minimizing downtime and cost.

• Reduced Soil Compaction- Their smaller size and lower weight result in less soil compaction, benefiting crop health and yield.

• Lower Maintenance/Operating Expenses- Compact utility tractors consume less fuel, leading to cost savings and a reduced carbon footprint.

• Unmatched Versatility- Tackle any project easily thanks to the wide range of compatible attachments. Whether maintaining your home, managing a commercial property, or working the land, you can perform almost any job with the right accessory.

CHOOSING THE BEST COMPACT TRACTOR FOR YOUR NEEDS

When determining size and horsepower, a good rule of thumb is to consider both acreage and terrain. Haney said, “Potential buyers need to consider the various tasks they expect to perform, along with the terrain of their property Whether a parcel is primarily flat or has hilly terrain will factor in when choosing your tractor’s size.” A larger-framed model with increased weight and power is more stable on hillsides.

Brush cutters and finishing mowers account for about 95% of compact tractor attachments, according to Haney. He also mentioned that a grappler

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is an excellent attachment for properties with timber and can quickly move fallen limbs and trees from roadways.

According to Haney, a great starting point when choosing what size tractor you need is to develop an idea of the tasks you wish to complete on your property.” Whether you’re maintaining a well-manicured lawn or using your 20-acre field for baling hay, you need a machine with the correct size and power that can handle any job you anticipate. Consider a tractor with dimensions that allow you to maneuver in or around any buildings or enclosures on your property.

COMPACT TRACTOR SPECIFICATIONS TO CONSIDER

Frame size- The length and width of a tractor is sometimes called its footprint. The geometry of these specs determines stability on hillsides along with its turning radius. These measurements will also influence how well it can maneuver within the confines of a barn or other buildings on your property.

Weight- A heavier tractor typically offers better stability and traction on uneven terrain or when using heavy implements such as loaders or backhoes. Heavier models also tend to be more durable under heavy use; however, weight can factor into one’s choice if it will towed to other locations.

Transmission- Most compact tractors offer a choice of manual or hydrostatic transmissions. The manual is generally cheaper but requires shifting. Hydrostatic uses fluid flow instead of gears, allowing for continuous speed changes.

Horsepower- The number of acres a compact tractor can handle depends on the size and horsepower of the tractor. Here’s a general guide based on property size:

• 1-5 acres- For small acreages, a compact tractor with 20-30 horsepower should suffice. This power range allows for mowing, light hauling, and basic property maintenance tasks.

• 5-10 acres- A 30-50 horsepower tractor is suitable for medium-sized properties. It can handle tasks like mowing larger fields, tilling soil, moving heavier loads, and operating various attachments for landscaping and farming.

• 10-20 acres- Larger-framed compacts with 50+ hp can handle heavier-duty tasks such as plowing, harrowing, baling, and towing larger implements.

LS Tractor Specs

Haney said LS Tractor manufactures an MT2 and MT3 Premium Series alongside their MT2E and MT3E Economy Series of compact tractors with different frame sizes, horsepower, and transmission options.

• LS MT2/MT2E- This series offers three or four-cylinder engines from

25 to 42.5 hp, designed for attachments up to five feet wide.

• LS MT3/MT3E- These powerful models can handle larger implements designed for more demanding tasks. With four reliable engines ranging from 35 to 57 horsepower, you can find the perfect combination to fit your needs.

COMPACT TRACTOR FEATURES

Must-have features for a compact tractor will vary with your specific needs and the tasks you plan to use it for. However, several items are considered essential for most compact tractor owners.

Must Haves

• Loader- A front-end loader lets you lift and move heavy, bulky materials such as soil, gravel, or mulch.

• Four-wheel drive- This option makes a tremendous difference when operating on loose or muddy soil and increases pulling power on steep terrain.

• Mowers- A belly or rear mower deck facilitates efficient lawn mowing and brush clearing.

• Tillers- Several types are available for breaking up soil and preparing seedbeds and are essential for more extensive gardening and farming operations.

Nice-to-Have Options

• Backhoe- Adding a backhoe attachment enables digging tasks like trenching or excavation.

• Grapplers- A clamshell grappler is an excellent way to grasp and carry heavy loads or move brush.

• Post Hole Digger- This makes digging holes quicker and more efficient for fence installation or planting trees.

• Forks- Forklift attachments are handy for transporting pallets, lumber, or hale bales around the property.

• Planter- With a quality planting implement, controlling seed spacing and planting depth is a breeze.

• Sprayer- Adding a sprayer enables the tractor to apply pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers to crops or landscaping.

• Cab with Heater and A/C- A cab enclosure with climate control provides comfort and protection from bugs and temperature extremes during long hours of operation.

• GPS guidance- GPS guidance can provide driving accuracy and efficiency when performing tasks such as mowing, tilling, and planting.

• Toolbox- A built-in toolbox offers convenient storage for tools and small implements.

• Lighting Package- Enhanced lighting improves visibility during lowlight conditions or night operations.

Keeping weeds at bay is a simple task with a rotary mower attached to a LS compact tractor .

• Bluetooth Module- Radio, USB

Add-ons

Several additional items can improve the functionality and safety of your compact tractor.

• Counterweights

• Safety lights

• Mirrors

• Horns

• FOPS (Falling Object Protective Structure)

CONCLUSION

If you’ve become envious of a relative’s compact tractor and want your own “Swiss-Army-Knife-On-Wheels,” begin making a list of the features you need and the tasks you expect to take on, so you’ll be better prepared when decision time comes.

Fortunately, finding a suitable machine for your property or business can be as easy as asking the right questions to the right people. A reputable dealer can offer valuable input in your search for a dependable machine or attachments. Look for a business that stands by the products and services they offer. Having that dealer support can give you peace of mind and help keep your machinery maintained and operating at its full potential.

Call Adam Haney at Haney Equipment or visit either of their locations.

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My Gun and Trophy Insurance Review

BY JOE BAYA

Having a prized possession of significant value and realizing that you are not protected in the event of a catastrophic loss is an uneasy feeling, to say the least. In the world of insurance, it’s often a nightmare to deal with companies that are happy to accept your premium but then look for every way to deny your claim when you have one (cough, Florida homeowner’s insurance). So when I came to the realization that I had amassed enough firearms that gun collection insurance was warranted, I really wanted to find a company that would look out for me before, during, and after the sale. In an often disappointing world of insurance coverage, I am thrilled to share my positive experience with Gun and Trophy Insurance, a company that specializes in gun collection insurance and taxidermy insurance From the moment I engaged with their services, it became evident that they are a standout choice for firearm enthusiasts seeking comprehensive protection. In this review, I will delve into the reasons behind my enthusiastic endorsement, shedding light on the key aspects that set Gun and Trophy Insurance apart.

WHY YOU MIGHT NEED GUN INSURANCE LIKE ME

I’m a believer in insurance. It’s a cost of ownership, and without it, I have a hard time keeping my anxiety at bay. I like to put my head down and sleep soundly at night, and for that reason, once any possession gets over a certain threshold (for me about $10,000) I believe in insuring it. So, take a look at your firearms and your trophies on your wall. Do you have more than $10,000 of firearms sitting there? Did it take you more than $10,000 to acquire those trophies? And I’m not talking about the taxidermy bill, I mean did the hunts for those trophies cost more than that? If the answer is yes, you need to consider gun and/or trophy insurance.

MY EXPERIENCE WITH GUN AND TROPHY INSURANCE

In a day and age where nameless and faceless corporations seem to rule the world, it’s a breath of fresh air to talk to the owner of a business. Before I insured my gun collection, I sat down with Cole Cushman of Gun and Trophy Insurance on the Huntin’ Land podcast to see what his company was all about. The very first thing that struck me about Cole was that he happily explained what my options were in terms of other companies that offer gun insurance. That exudes confidence to me that he feels his coverage and options are the best in the industry.

Upon my own investigation, I found this to ring true. I am a lifetime member of the NRA, and they offer gun insurance, but I found it lacking in comparison to Gun and Trophy. For example, on price alone, the NRA program partner, Lockton Affinity, lists a $1.25 per $100 of insured value whereas Gun and Trophy Insurance is $0.31 per $100 of insured value and it gets cheaper from there as your insured value goes up. That’s a huge price difference, and while I love saving money, when I see a rate difference like that, it immediately raises red flags with me. As I’ve grown older, I’ve learned that cheaper at the time of purchase is not typically cheaper over the life of ownership. Buy an old boat if you want to learn this lesson for yourself.

WHAT DOES GUN AND TROPHY INSURANCE COVER?

So when I saw this huge price difference, my skepticism was on high alert. I asked Cole a lot of questions because I was sure there had to be something I was missing or some way I wasn’t covered. With any insurance policy, the first place to go is to the exclusions, and I was pleasantly surprised to not find any gaps that I could think of. Am I covered if my vehicle is broken into and a gun is stolen? What if my gun collection is spread across multiple physical locations? What about if my gun is lost while being shipped, like when it’s sent to a gunsmith? What about flood damage? What if I break my gun? What about a gun that I acquire after I’ve bound the policy? The answer was yes, I was covered in all of these scenarios. And to make it even better, I didn’t have to itemize my collection, I’m not in love with someone knowing everything that I have.

So how are they accomplishing great coverage at low prices? One way is through a slightly higher deductible. Some of the competition’s lowest deductibles are around $250 whereas Gun and Trophy’s lowest option is $500. The chance of needing to make a claim is always pretty low with insurance, and I always opt for higher deductibles. Typically, if you do the math, the premium savings almost always pays the additional deductible in 1-2 years.

DON’T JUST TAKE MY WORD FOR IT; CHECK OUT OTHER GUN AND TROPHY INSURANCE REVIEWS.

Of course, you can expect a company to only have good things to say about themselves, so any time you are making a purchase, it pays to do a little digging and see what the world has to say about their experience. With insurance of all types, it’s wise to look into the insurance partner. In the case of Gun and Trophy, their partner is Hanover insurance company. AM Best, a global credit agency specializing in the insurance industry rates Hanover as “Excellent”.

Another trick I use when looking for word-of-mouth reviews is to do a Google search with the company or product in the search field and add the word “forum” to the search. Disgruntled customers are typically very vocal and you can often learn a lot by reading forums and deciphering what people have to say there. I already knew what service was like before the sale, but I couldn’t find anything but positive reviews from customers who have actually had to make claims.

INSURANCE DOESN’T ALWAYS HAVE YOUR BACK

There’s little more frustrating than consistently paying premiums for years and then when a scenario unfolds where you need to make a claim, you find out you weren’t covered when you thought you were. If you have a significant gun or trophy collection, you owe it to yourself to look into gun and/or taxidermy insurance. Ask your agent the hard questions about every possible situation you could see where a loss would be encountered and look online for reviews about not only the agent but the partner company that backs them up. If you do your homework in the beginning, you can rest easy knowing your valuables are protected.

Are there Lenders that Accept Land as Collateral?

BY STEPHANIE MALLORY

Loans, especially large loans, can be difficult to obtain, even for those who are financially secure. Fortunately, if you need to secure a loan, there are a number of options available, including using your land as collateral. Just like a home equity loan, you can use your land as collateral, but instead of borrowing against the equity in your home, you’re borrowing against the equity in your land.

LAND COLLATERAL LOANS EXPLAINED

Land Collateral loans are secured loans because your property guarantees the loan. The lender can seize the property to pay off the remainder of the loan if you don’t pay your collateral loan. However, lenders often feel more confident in approving collateral loans and in turn, these secured loans may have slightly lower interest rates than unsecured loans. Furthermore, a loan secured with collateral may enable a borrower to borrow a greater amount compared to an unsecured loan, which relies solely on the borrower ’s income and credit history.

“One of the benefits of using land as collateral for a loan is that it allows you to take out a loan without risking assets such as your home, car, savings or stocks. The fact that you can use an existing asset as collateral for a new loan is often advantageous. And in some situations, the collateral (land) can be used in lieu of a down payment – allowing the borrower to hold onto their cash,” John Sport, vice president of First South Farm Credit, said.

First South Farm Credit is a financial cooperative that provides a steady flow of credit to eligible borrowers in Alabama, Louisiana, and Mississippi. It is one of the best options for land loans due to the longer payment schedules and flexible terms that they can offer as a chartered Farm Credit Service lender.

THE BASICS OF USING LAND AS COLLATERAL FOR A LOAN

To secure a collateral loan using your land, the lender must first approve you, and it must be determined that the land has an equity value that is equal to or exceeds that of the requested loan amount. After the lender approves the land as collateral, a lien will be put on the land. Once the loan is paid in full, the lien will be released.

HOW MUCH IS MY LAND WORTH?

The first step in using land as collateral for a loan is determining the value of your land. Once the land value has been determined, you can start the process of transforming your property holdings into qualified collateral.

“The value of the land is best determined by a rural land real estate appraiser. When assessing the land, a number of factors will be considered by the appraiser, such as the location, condition, timber quality, infrastructure and more. Then it has to be determined if the land is free of any debt restrictions and available to be pledged as collateral for a loan. Once these initial concerns are addressed, then the borrower and lender can discuss the structure of the loan that works for both parties,” Sport said.

WHAT CAN YOU USE A LAND EQUITY LOAN FOR?

Land owners that either want to acquire additional rural land or to cover land improvement expenses, such as building ponds, barns, etc., often use the equity in their land as collateral for a land improvement loan. Structuring a land equity loan enables the borrower to accomplish what they want to in regards to their land financing and it frees up their cash for other expenses and/or financing needs that are outside of their rural land holdings or farming operation.

CAN YOU USE LAND AS COLLATERAL FOR A CONSTRUCTION LOAN?

“Those who are ready to improve or construct a home on their rural homes sites can use land as collateral for an improvement/construction loan and.... the equity in the land can reduce or possibly eliminate the down payment for an improvement/construction loan,” Brandon Simpson, loan officer for First South Farm Credit, said.

Construction loans can be used to pay for materials, labor and land, and generally require you to only pay interest on the funds that are used as the construction progresses. To obtain a construction loan, your lender will need your building plans and your financial records, as well as an estimated

budget and timeline.

CAN YOU USE LAND AS COLLATERAL FOR A PERSONAL LOAN?

Using Land as collateral for a personal loan will vary depending on the lender you use. If the purpose of the loan is for debt consolidation outside of an existing farming operation or for debt not tied to the purchase or improvement of the rural land, then a Farm Credit lender may not be able to accommodate the applicant’s loan request. So, it’s best for an applicant to discuss all the details with a loan officer to best determine if a loan can be provided or not.

“The use of the funds controls the loan purpose. Farm Credit is tied to rural agricultural lending for full and part-time farmers as well as rural land owners. One of the more common reason for a personal loan is for debt consolidation, and if that debt consolidation is not tied to a farming operation or rural land, chances are we cannot make that loan.” Simpson said.

CAN YOU USE LAND AS COLLATERAL FOR BUYING MORE LAND?

The most common reason people use land as collateral for a loan is to buy more land.

“If you don’t want to use cash for a down payment, you can pledge the land you own to reduce or eliminate your down payment. As for when you should or should not do this, it’s based on everyone’s financial situation and goal they are trying to accomplish,” Simpson said.

The borrower should be mindful that using land as collateral ties up the asset for the length of the loan and you should know that the lender can take possession of your collateral if you do not meet the terms of the loan agreement.

THE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES LAND COLLATERAL LOANS

In general, the advantage of land collateral loans is that the value of land often enables the lender and borrower to structure a deal that is favorable for both parties. Land can provide sufficient collateral to help with a down payment, thereby freeing up cash for the borrower.

Using land as collateral for a loan allows you to take out a loan without risking assets such as your home, car, savings or stocks.

“In some situations, the collateral (land) can be used in lieu of a down payment – allowing the borrower to hold onto their cash,” Sport said.

The disadvantage is that using land as collateral ties up the asset for the length of the loan and the lender can take possession of your collateral if you do not meet the terms of the loan agreement.

QUESTIONS TO ASK LENDERS WHEN USING LAND AS COLLATERAL FOR A LOAN

Fully understanding the requirements and expectations of using your property as collateral for a Land loan is essential before continuing the process and Sport says there are few general questions you should ask your loan officer

• Can I use my land as collateral for a “specific type” of loan (and know that the purpose of the loan will dictate the lender’s response)?

• What is involved with using my land as collateral for a loan?

• Do I need an appraisal?

• Are there fees involved?

• How does using land as collateral impact my payments and loan terms?

ARE EQUITY LAND LOANS RIGHT FOR YOU?

“Deciding whether or not a land equity loan is right for you is definitely a personal decision, but generally speaking, if using land as collateral on a loan can reduce your payments and provide other favorable loan terms, then it is a good option to consider. However, the borrower needs to fully understand the risk and implications of using their existing land as equity for an additional loan,” Sport said.

Hunting coyotes can be tough, since they can smell better than a deer, hear better than a turkey and see as good as an eagle.

Mastering Coyote Calls and Calling

BY JOHN E. PHILLIPS

The coyote, a tough, adaptable, strong and enduring animal, has its name derived from Coyote, the sacred god of the Aztecs, and also is known as the prairie wolf and the songdog. Although the encroachment of people, houses and airports has hurt other wild animals, some biologists predict even if the U.S. is covered with these trappings of civilization, the coyote and the cockroach still will survive. Coyotes are smart – with one biologist saying, “Compared with a coyote, a bobcat is practically an idiot.”

COYOTE CALLING SOUNDS

*Injured Or Dying Rabbit Call – Many hunters use the traditional injured-rabbit call for coyote hunting. One of the coyote’s main food sources includes rabbits. When a coyote hears the sound of a rabbit in distress, it generally will come to investigate and feed. A hunter who doesn’t blow the rabbit call from his diaphragm as he will a turkey call, a goose call or a duck call but instead blows it with his mouth won’t experience as much success calling in coyotes.

Also the hunter must understand the rhythm required to produce a life-like sound on a rabbit call. Because a rabbit has very-small lungs, its ability to produce sounds decreases quickly. The first burst of air a rabbit uses to squeal will sound the loudest of any squeals it makes during its series. As the rabbit runs out of air, the volume will decrease. Usually a rabbit will wait a few seconds to refill its lungs with air before it begins to squeal again. Most coyote hunters suggest blowing an injured-rabbit call with short, quick bursts of air and reducing the volume with each call, as coyotes come to within range.

*Mouse Squeaker - Use a hand-held mouse squeaker - a small, subtle-sounding call you can operate with a minimum of movement that quietly attracts a coyote at close range.

*Coyote Howler – This highly-effective call will call in and locate songdogs. In the spring of the year, coyotes often will answer a howler when the males look for females. In the fall, coyotes will answer a howler because often they tend to pack together more to hunt at that time of year. Also coyotes will respond to a howler because the howler sounds like a new coyote has entered their territory. Many knowledgeable hunters believe that coyotes recognize each other’s bark and howl. When coyotes hear a new call, they’ll answer back to try to find the new animal in their region. Others believe a howler may simulate the barking a coyote makes when it discovers its prey and wants to call in other coyotes to eat.

Teaching someone to use a howler may present problems. Most hunters tend to overcall and call too loudly. The terrain dictates the volume. If you hunt in wide, open spaces where you can see for 150 to 300 yards in all directions, then you’ll have to call loudly to reach a coyote hiding in thick cover just out of sight. However, if you only have 100 yards or less visibility, you’ll find soft calling more effective. But coyotes won’t always bark or howl back to a howler before they

come in to where the hunter sits. A coyote may hear the call and come sneaking in without ever making a sound.

*Canine Whiner – You can bark and howl also on a canine whiner. However, you primarily want to imitate a coyote pup in distress with the canine whiner to: trigger a female coyote’s mothering instincts to come and investigate why the pup whines; and also cause a male dog to come in to protect the litter. A canine whiner particularly will lure in coyote pups in a pack. Hunters also mention that some coyotes will eat puppies from rival family groups.

Often a coyote hunter mistakenly leaves his calling spot before the coyote comes into view. To successfully bag coyotes, give three barks and a howl on a coyote howler. Wait for five minutes, and then repeat the call. If you don’t spot a coyote, then give either a canine-whiner call or an injured-rabbit call. If you fail to see an animal after 45 minutes, move from 1/2- to 3/4-mile before trying to call again.

LEARNING WHAT COYOTE CALLING TACTICS WORK

To take coyotes during daylight hours, plan to hunt primarily early and late in the day. Realize that wind direction determines success or failure. Always hunt into the wind. Once you know where you want to hunt, look for openings where you can see the coyotes coming from 50- to 100-yards away. Also, search for a blind site where you can set-up a portable blind. Make sure there’s brush available to put over the front of the blind to keep from having a solid one-dimensional wall of camouflage. On the day you plan to hunt, sneak into the place that you want to call from, set-up your blind, put brush around it, set out a decoy, turn on your caller, and prepare to shoot.

*Team Calling - Often two people will team up to hunt coyotes for the most efficiency. Many times a coyote won’t come straight to the caller. Because of a coyote’s keen ears, it can pinpoint the location of the sound it’s hearing. If the coyote doesn’t see the animal making the call, the coyote may circle downwind to attempt to sneak up on what he thinks is another coyote. If the second hunter sits 30 yards behind the caller and watches the opposite direction from the direction where the caller looks, then the team may find success. Often a coyote will respond to a call by crouching low or crawling on its belly.

* Single Hunter Calling - If a hunter tries to take a coyote single-handedly, then the wind becomes an important factor. The coyote has one the keenest noses in the predator family and may pick up human odor if the hunter moves downwind.

My longtime friend, Brad Harris, of Neosho, Missouri, an avid coyote hunter, explains the tactics he uses to take the brush dog. “Hunting into the wind is the most- critical key to successful coyote hunting. These animals have extremely keen noses. If they smell the hunter, they won’t come in to a call.”

A number of coyotes are taken by hunters during deer and turkey seasons

Finding Coyotes

One of the best inventions to be adapted to coyote hunting is drones. When hunting a right-of-way, a pasture, a clear cut or any type of opening, you can use a drone to identify thick-cover places on one side of the openings that may hold coyotes.

Other spots to see coyotes include places: populated with livestock where farmers and ranchers don’t bury the animals that die on their properties; with abundant waterfowl; of high deer, turkey and/or rabbit populations; and near catfish ponds that are often surrounded with dead catfish.

Harris likes to take a stand with the wind in his face where he can see for 150 yards. If you’re hunting with black powder, you must set-up to call the coyotes within the range that you accurately can shoot with your rifle. Remember, if you can watch a coyote at 200 to 300 yards, the coyote also can see you.

“When I call in the East or in relatively-thick cover, I call coyotes like I do turkeys,” Harris explains. “I start off with soft calling, maybe with the mouse squeaker or make very soft, rabbit squeals to possibly lure in the close-by coyotes. If the coyotes don’t come in quickly, then I increase the volume of my calling to be able to reach more territory and possibly pull in the coyotes from further away. Most coyotes won’t come straight in to the call. But instead they will circle downwind to pick up the scent of the animal the call indicates is in distress. You must be able to see the coyotes either when they come in or as they begin to circle downwind of you to get a shot.

“I like to hunt coyotes on backwoods roads, farm roads, fence lines, power line right-of-ways or any type of opening where thick cover intersects either a clearing or sparse cover. You must have plenty of land to hunt to consistently bag several coyotes in a day. I may hunt from 20- to 30-different-stand sites, usually 1/2- to 1-mile apart in one day.

“Don’t worry if you miss the coyote with your first shot. Lightning strikes often happen in the wild, thunder rolls, and trucks backfire. Many sounds in the wild the coyote hears every day resemble shots. On many occasions, I’ve had shots at a second coyote after I’ve missed the first coyote when I’ve kept on calling. Once you shoot, don’t move from your calling position. Instead reload quickly, and call.”

UNDERSTANDING THE IMPORTANCE OF DECOYS, CALLS, COVER SCENTS AND CAMOUFLAGE

Many coyote hunters enjoy using robotic decoys like the well-known Rigor Rabbit, the MOJO Critter series and others. . But a turkey feather, a white rag or even a child’s stuffed animal also will give the coyote something to focus on as it starts to come to your calling, If you can add movement to your decoy, you’ll have even more success. Lists of various coyote decoys and how they rank in effectiveness are available on the internet.

Hand-blown predator calls work well on coyotes, especially if you’re accomplished at calling. Also, Primos Calls offers various sounds coyotes make that you can listen to electronically at https://sounds.primos.com/. Many hunters like a skunk essence cover scent that drives even house cats wild and stays strong for a year.

Wearing camouflage and being concealed well are necessities when hunting coyotes. They can smell better than a deer, hear better than a turkey and see as good as an eagle. So, even if you’re in a blind, wear a full-camouflaged headnet, shirt, pants, gloves and boots.

KNOWING REGULATIONS ABOUT HUNTING COYOTES

Be sure to check the state where you’re hunting coyotes, as often various states have different laws. Most states have open season on coyotes year-round, but some do have restrictions. Many states allow hunting coyotes both day and night. However, night vision scopes are illegal in some states. The primary guns recommended for coyote hunting include: shotguns with No. 2 or smaller shot; centerfire rifles of .22 caliber; .22 caliber rimfires and air rifles. Other hunters like the .17, .223 and..243 calibers.

A Louisiana study found coyotes didn’t always kill for food. In one example, a marauding pack of coyotes slaughtered 135 ewes and lambs in one night with some of the sheep only having their necks bitten or their bodies disemboweled. Part of the coyote’s adaptability is the vast variety of foods they do consume.

In a research study conducted by Dr. John W. Goertz, researchers spent hours studying 201-coyote stomachs and droppings. Livestock (mostly cattle) and poultry remains were observed in 66 of 201 samples. Rabbits were found in 76 animals, deer in six and squirrels in a few. One coyote’s stomach held both quail and turkey. A total of 30-different kinds of prey from insects to horsemeat were found to be part of these coyotes’ diets. If coyote populations continue to increase, we may see even more coyotes running across our suburban backyards and feeding in our garbage cans.

Understanding Important Factors for Successful Coyote Hunting

* Wear a cover scent to prepare for the coyote coming in from downwind.

* Wear camouflage -a headnet, gloves and clothes just as you will to turkey hunt.

* Break-up your outline by building a small blind, since coyotes are very keen-eyed.

* Stay off ridge tops that silhouette you against the skyline.

* Don’t walk across open fields.

* Do slip around the edges of openings.

* Move as quietly as possible through the woods.

n MANDATORY CWD SAMPLING OF HUNTER HARVESTED DEER ON SPECIFIED DAYS WITHIN CHRONIC WASTING DISEASE MANAGEMENT ZONE (CMZ)

n NO TRANSPORT OF WHOLE DEER OR DEER (CERVID) BODY PARTS OUTSIDE OF CMZ OR IMPORTED FROM OTHER STATES UNLESS COMPLETELY DEBONED

n NO BAITING OR SUPPLEMENTAL FEEDING OF WILDLIFE IN THE CMZ

Comparing the Best Rain Gear for Fishing

BY BUTCH THIERRY

There’s a big difference between a rain jacket that was made to get you from a car to a grocery store door and one that’s made to keep you dry in a rain storm in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico.

Nothing puts rain gear to the test quite like a marine environment. In addition to whatever is falling out of the sky, you’re also dealing with the stuff coming over the sides of the boat. Wind gathers force coming across open waters, driving rain into you from all sides. As if all that wasn’t enough, once you fire up the engine and get underway, spray from the boat can drench you with each slap of the waves against the hull.

In an effort to learn more about what it takes to make rain gear that performs in demanding marine environments, we sat down with Jillian Hidalgo, AFTCO’s apparel Design Director. Jillian has extensive experience designing rain gear, having worked in both the fishing and motosports industries, and was able to give us some information that can be used to compare the various types of rain gear out on the market to make sure that you end up with exactly what you need for a day out on the water.

FISHING RAIN GEAR FACTORS TO CONSIDER

According to Jillian, the first question to ask yourself when shopping for fishing rain gear is, “What exactly will I be doing in these garments?”

“That right there is going to dictate a lot of choices,” she says. “We make rain gear for everywhere, from the warm, Florida Keys to the guys up north ice fishing frozen lakes. Different things are required in those different circumstances to stay comfortable out on the water, and that’s the end goal. The reason why you wear the foul weather gear at the end of the day is so that you can fully enjoy what you are doing. It’s not just about “surviving” a trip. It’s about keeping yourself comfortable so that you enjoy the day.”

Jillian continues, “Some of the questions you need to ask yourself before you buy are, ‘What season will I be fishing?’ ‘What type of fish am I looking for?’ ‘What temperatures am I expecting to be out in?’ ‘How long do I expect I’ll be out in precipitation, and what type will it be?’ ‘Is it going to be a torrential downpour, or just misty in the morning?’ ‘Is it going to be cold, or really windy?’”

“Those are all factors that you want to make note of when you are going to purchase something. If you’re an angler that fishes the Keys, and you just get some warm rain showers here and there, a 20K suit might work just fine because you’re just dealing with quick popup showers. On the flip side, if you’re going to be out for four to five hours in the rain in a colder environment like up on Lake Michigan, you’ll want a 30K suit.”

HOW WATERPROOF IS YOUR RAIN GEAR, REALLY?

Anybody who has been fishing for a while knows that there’s a big difference between clothing marketed as “water resistant” and “waterproof.” A garment advertised as water resistant is often just a regular old hoodie with an

application of “Durable Waterproof Repellent,” or “DWR” coating applied to it. DWRs have their place in quality, waterproof clothing, but if you’re expecting anything more than the briefest of light drizzles, a DWR by itself is not going to keep you very dry.

On the opposite end of the spectrum are things like PVC or rubber. These materials are 100% waterproof for all intents and purposes, making them popular for boots, waders, and other materials that need to keep you dry when you’re submerged for long periods of time. But they have a big problem when worn as garments; they don’t breathe. At all!

Which brings us to the bread-and-butter technology in the world of technical rain gear: breathable, waterproof membranes. When shopping for breathable membranes, there’s a simple truth to keep in mind. The more breathable a membrane is, the less water resistant it is.

AFTCO and other makers of high-end rain gear offer a variety of membranes that offer more or less breathability and water resistance. To make sure you’re comparing “apples to apples” when shopping, Jillian stresses that anglers should look for the “K rating” of the clothing.

“In simple terms,” she says, “K rating refers to the meters per square inch of pressure water will have to be at in order to push through through the membrane. The higher that number, the longer it takes for the water to get through the membrane. Put even more simply, the K rating tells you how much rain it’s going to take to soak through that membrane.”

“Something like a 10K garment is going to get you through a very light rain for a small amount of time. 20K gets you higher resistance to heavier rain for a longer period of time. 30K is going to buy you even more time; a couple of extra hours in hard rain. But all membranes have a certain point where they become too saturated and water comes in. If you’re looking for something that’s 110% waterproof, you’re looking for a PVC product that has that rubberized coating on the outside.

There’s also usually a second K rating that can tell you how well a garment breathes or doesn’t breathe. The higher this second K value, the more pressure it takes for air to penetrate the fabric. A higher K rating here indicates less airflow through the garment, which isn’t great for breathability but means that the garment will keep you warm on high-speed boat rides or on days with brutal nor’easters.

SEALED SEAMS ON RAIN GEAR

An often overlooked detail on rain gear is sealed seams. As Jillian explains, DWRs and high K rating membranes don’t mean much if a garment’s stitching isn’t protected.

“If you take a 30K garment, and you put a seam in it and you don’t seal it, you’re back at 0K,” she says bluntly. “If you have a sealed seam, you’re

back to at least 20K in that area. And the thing is, seam sealing is actually really tough to do right. We work really hard with our factories because it’s really such an art. It’s a real human doing it, and they have to clip the fabric ends just right, and then roll it over carefully, and it has to have this beautiful, perfect bond on either side of the seam. And the quality of that seam really comes to the operator’s ability to be able to do that soundly and nicely. So we really choose our factories carefully, not just based on the quality of fit, but also how they seam seal, because that can make or break a garment.”

BEST RAIN GEAR FOR COMFORT

As Jillian mentioned, the purpose of rain gear is to keep you comfortable. We’ve talked a lot about water resistance and how to compare different rain suits out on the market, but water and wind resistance isn’t the only thing that makes a garment comfortable. How it fits is important too. With her previous experience in motocross, Jillian knows that the “perfect” fit looks different for different outdoor activities.

“Garment fit is an area that we’ve been working on for a long time, and our fit has evolved over time as we’ve gotten feedback from anglers,” she explains. “We’re moving towards a more articulated fit, but it’s different from a lot of the other stuff out there. It’s designed for a different type of movement. So, for instance, in a hunting scenario out west, you may be scrambling up scree, or crouching, or crawling…stuff like that. But if you’re fishing, you’re mostly standing, and it’s important that the garment moves with you as you do things like cast or climb up on casting towers.”

Jillian continues, “For a long time in the fishing industry, bigger and looser was better. But what we’ve found is that fit means more fabric to deal with that’s flapping in the breeze or catching a fish hook. So we’ve moved to a bit slimmer fit, but it’s not quite as thin as the stuff you see, say, KUIU or Sitka put out. It’s what I’d call a relaxed articulation, and it really layers better under outerwear and moves with you well.”

the money spent on turkey permits, which is part of the licensing requirement to hunt turkeys in Florida, goes into that fund.

In addition to well thought out little features like the famous plier pocket that AFTCO first introduced on their shorts, Jillian mentions some other little features that are designed specifically with anglers in mind.

“The Speed Vent Hood is a real must-have on all of our foul-weather gear,” she says. “It’s a two part hood, so you have the full, high neck to shield off the weather, but then the hood is sewn in separately with these triangle back gussets so that when you do cinch it down and you are running a boat, it allows air to go through so it doesn’t blow off your head.”

“Many hunters and NWTF members are heavily involved in raising funds for the wild turkey and its habitat by participating in NWTF hunting heritage banquets, whereby a portion of those funds raised goes into the cost-share program,” Nicholson said. “Hunters’ purchases of hunting equipment also helps support wildlife conservation through the Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration Program, which brings federal grant funding to state wildlife management agencies such as the FWC.”

“We also have the Double Dry Cuff, which was designed to keep water from running down your arm if you’re reaching up or casting. It also helps keep you drier if you have to dip your hand down into the water, like if you’re reaching to net a fish or scoop bait out of the livewell.”

Through this combined effort from the NWTF, FWC, FFS and Florida turkey hunters, the wild turkey population is healthy and flourishing in Florida. And, if you’re a turkey hunter, then you must be getting excited because spring turkey season and the youth turkey hunt weekends are just around the corner.

“We actually have a picture,” she laughs, “that got taken during a design meeting where our president was sticking his hand down in a bucket of water and holding it up over his head to test which designs helped keep water out of your sleeve the best.”

CONCLUSION

Contact Information

Rain gear has come a long way from the heavy rubberized ponchos of yesteryear. There’s some pretty advanced chemistry behind the new DWR finishes and breathable membranes, and when those new technologies combine with good market research and good tailoring, it results in comfortable, practical, good-looking rain gear that can handle some of the world’s nastiest weather. But as we’ve learned from Jillian, not all rain gear is created equal. Hopefully, this article has left you with a good understanding of the commonly-used terminology in the industry, as well as a knowledge of how to read K Ratings and look for must-have features like sealed seams.

Wild Turkey Cost-Share Program

Florida State Chapter of the National Wild Turkey Federation (NWTF)

Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC)

Florida Forest Service (FFS)

Green Swamp Wildlife Management Area (WMA)

Gulf Coastal Plain Ecosystem Partnership

Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration Program

HUNTING CABIN Ideas

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Park model cabins allow for portability, as well as the comforts of a more traditional home

Hunting cabins are a great way to facilitate family involvement in your hunting pursuits. Even if momma doesn’t hunt, for example, chances are she’ll be down for a quiet evening next to a fire on a cold winter’s night. Friends from out-of-state are more likely to visit if they know there’s a bunk waiting for them instead of a Motel 6 bed. And even if you don’t bag a deer, a weekend trip up to the lease isn’t exactly wasted if you can enjoy a hot meal, a warm shower, and a cold beverage far from the responsibilities of day-to-day life in a cozy little getaway.

In this article, we’ll look at some of the different ways hunters can put a hunting cabin or their property.

PREFAB HUNTING CABIN KITS

Prefab cabins offer a charming and efficient way to enjoy the rustic beauty of log cabin living without the lengthy and often complex process of traditional construction. Prefab, or prefabricated, means that parts of the cabin are pre-built in a factory and then shipped to the site for assembly. This method has several advantages, making it a popular choice for those dreaming of a cozy retreat.

One of the biggest draws of prefab cabins is the speed of construction. Since the main components are manufactured off-site under controlled conditions, the assembly process on-site is much quicker than building from scratch. This can significantly reduce the overall construction time, allowing you to enjoy your cabin sooner.

In recent years, post frame buildings have become increasingly popular. You may have noticed these “barndominiums” popping up in your home state. These clever, durable, and cost-effective buildings typically combine a large shop or garage into a home, with all or part of the footprint finished with all the comforts of a modern house. If you’re looking for maximum square footage and minimum price, these structures are hard to beat.

Trista Cabrera of Dixie Building Supply, a long-time Gulf Coast construction material supply company, explains just what post frame buildings are and how they work.

“Post frame construction is a method of building that uses posts and roof trusses to create a structurally sound building with wide open interior space. Dixie has been selling materials for post-frame construction for more than twenty-five years,” Cabrera said. “Post frame building construction is a fast and economical way for a customer to build. It requires less materials than a stick-built structure and therefore takes less time to construct.”

While these structures go up quickly, they’re not “thrown together.” Post frame construction is immensely strong and durable.

“You can build a post frame building that can take up

Post frame buildings offer maximum square footage and minimum price

to 160 mph winds, Trista explains. “They’re very sturdy. As far as longevity goes, as long as you take the time to clean the building of any metal shavings from where you cut or drilled into it immediately after you finish construction, they’re pretty low-maintenance, aside from a yearly cleaning.”

In the hot, humid southeast, prospective builders of post frame buildings may be concerned about how well these metal structures are insulated. The answer is, pretty well.

“Our builders that we work with install a layer of thin, reflective insulation under the metal typically,” Cabrera says. “This is usually sufficient if the building is used for storage purposes or non-finished use. If you’re building a camp or home inside the structure, that uses conventional framing, and you can use whatever insulation you’d like in there.”

Due to their prefab nature, these buildings go up very quickly once ground is broken on construction.

“Your permitting for a post frame building is going to take as much time as for any other structure, really,” says Trista. “But once the actual construction starts, you can have one up in 2-3 weeks if everything goes smoothly.”

“Post frame construction is really a great option for remote hunting camps, due to their simplicity,” she concludes. “We’ve tried hard to keep our costs for these buildings low, so while prices fluctuate, they’re typically cheaper than traditional construction because they require less lumber to build.”

In short, prefabbed, post frame construction buildings may be the perfect option for hunters looking for a little more enclosed square footage at a little bit lower cost-per-square-foot.

PORTABLE HUNTING CABINS

Portable cabins, often referred to as “park model” cabins, are a unique and flexible solution for those looking for a cozy retreat without the commitment or expense of traditional cabin construction.

Park model cabins are typically built on a trailer chassis, allowing them to be easily transported from one location to another. Despite their mobility, these cabins are designed with a stationary use in mind, offering a level of comfort and style that rivals permanent structures.

In terms of amenities, park model cabins can offer much of what you’d find in a traditional home, including kitchens equipped with full-sized appliances, comfortable bathrooms, HVAC systems, and cozy sleeping quarters. The interiors can be surprisingly luxurious, with options for high-end finishes and customizations that allow owners to personalize their space.

The mobility of portable cabins offers several unique advantages. For starters, you can easily relocate a cabin in the event that you don’t end up “in love” with its original location. Maybe it was a nice idea on paper to have your camp down by the creek, but come to find out that area floods or is a mosquito hole during turkey season. With a permanent cabin, you’re out of luck! But with a portable cabin, you can relocate to a new location relatively easily.

Another advantage is that a portable cabin is technically usually classified as an RV instead of a home or permanent structure. This means that there is much less red tape involved with putting one on your property. This is especially true if you don’t own the land, but lease it. Even if you do own, you’ll save money on inspection costs, insurance, and other expenses by going the portable route.

LOG HOME HUNTING CABINS

Log home hunting cabins are the quintessential sportsman’s retreat. These cabins offer an unmatched rustic charm; blending seamlessly into natural surroundings and making them an ideal choice for tradition-first hunters.

There are many companies that will design and build log hunting cabins. While the expense goes up substantially compared to the previous options we’ve discussed, this can be a great option for property owners who know exactly what they want and want their vision executed right. Quality log homes will last a lifetime if properly maintained. If you keep yours, your

grandchildren will be enjoying it long after you’re gone. If you decide to part with it, log homes traditionally hold value well compared to stick-builds.

SHIPPING CONTAINER HUNTING CABINS

Moving back into a cheaper realm of cabin options, we have shipping container conversions. The first hunting club I was in had a rough “camp house” in the form of a shipping container. These spartan accommodations don’t exactly scream “luxury” or “tradition,” but they’re economical, with some “ready to go” commercial options coming in for about the same price as an economy hatchback.

While shipping containers are weather resistant and conveniently boxshaped, it’s important to note that they don’t ventilate well or have much insulation value. These units can be difficult to keep warm or cool in severe weather, something that you should be aware of and plan for.

HUNTING CABIN RENTALS

While deer camp is an indispensable part of the hunting experience to many hunters, there’s more to having one than the up-front cost of building it. Keeping a camp up is a year-round responsibility, unless you’re ok with showing up on opening day to find that the toilet burst during the last freeze, the fridge is a biohazard thanks to a power outage, and a family of raccoons are living in your sofa!

For hunters who hunt large tracts of public land but want a taste of camp life, renting a camp for rutcation can make a lot of sense. A week-long rental of a nearby cabin is a paltry expense compared to the costs of building and maintaining a structure, especially when split among friends.

CONCLUSION

If you’ve never had a hunting cabin before, it might surprise you just how fast they grow on you. Camp life is a great antidote to the stressors of modern life. Hunting can become secondary to just enjoying a slower daily rhythm and the company of friends and family, with successful hunts being the icing on the cake instead of the main attraction. Hopefully, this article has taken you one step closer to a hunting cabin of your own.

A shipping container cabin is perfect for the hunter looking for just the bare minimum in accommodations

GO TO SURF FISHING RIGS FOR EVERY CONDITION

BY DAVID THORNTON

Often success is in the small details anglers add to the bait and rig to get the attention of fish under the current conditions.

Until fairly recently surf anglers did not have much in the way of choices of terminal rigs for sale in stores. Perhaps that is why so many surf fishermen learned to make their own rigs. All the while determining by trial and error which worked best in the varied conditions we see throughout the year, and for which species. Some of these more successful anglers, and certainly the more entrepreneurial minded, started selling their rigs as word of mouth spread of their consistent performance. Since this sport of shorebound surf fishing has exploded in popularity over the past decade though, the demand for quality surf fishing rigs plus the knowledge of when, where, and how to use them has driven the marketplace to the point where new participants are easily overwhelmed by the myriad of choices. This article explores the differences between several basic terminal surf rigs to aid anglers navigating through the basic rig styles with their differing looks. and hooks, and colors to determine which are actually needed for every condition.

IDENTIFYING SURF FISHING RIGS AND KNOWING WHEN TO CHOOSE THEM

As surf fishing has grown so rapidly in popularity through the past 10 years or so, the gear and tackle has evolved with it. Terminal rigs have changed to the point that specialization has replaced basic functionality in some cases. Most surf anglers, especially new ones, need only start their terminal tackle assortment with 3 or maybe 4 basic necessities, and just a few variations of each. You will master uses of those as you learn which species you prefer targeting, and what tackle you prefer to do it with. These basic surf fishing rigs are: high-low rig (aka double drop or pompano rig), single drop rig, and the fishfinder fig (also known as the Carolina rig). Most of these are available at bait and tackle shops all along the Emerald Coast. They may carry many choices of these rigs. But most of their employees use these rigs themselves, and can provide excellent advice on how, where, and when to use them effectively, or even how to build your own as they sell components too.

HIGH-LOW RIG (DOUBLE DROP RIG)

Several ideas and innovations have driven the popularity of the double drop rig. These evolved from the high-low rig used for fishing vertically from a boat in deep water. Two hooks means anglers have twice the bait and

double the chances to hook a fish, or even two. For surf fishermen, the presentation of these rigs is very angular based on the distance cast from shore, with one bait on or near the bottom and one suspended above the bottom. This concept worked okay, but somewhere along the evolutionary line, some bright surf caster discovered that adding brightly colored plastic beads on the branch line just above the baited hooks attracted more fish to the bait in roiled surf, especially pompano.

Soon, pieces of brightly painted styrofoam floats replaced the beads and the Pompano rig was born. Originally these floats were just a few colors (cut ends of red, orange, or yellow styrofoam floats), and depending on conditions, all were successful to some degree in attracting and catching pompano along with incidental species.

The hooks used on these rigs also experienced similar experimentation and changes in sizes, styles, and colors, even painted colors. J-hooks versus circles versus kahles is a lively topic for debate among surf fishers and rig makers. Prompt feedback of these innovations from surf fishermen on social media from all over this region (and beyond) helped drive marketing into its current diversity.

Often success is in the small details. Anglers add to the bait and rig to get the attention of fish under the current conditions. The double drop/pompano rig in basic colors is a great tool for exploring areas of the surfzone where there is no definitive structure (point, sand bar drop offs, or sandbar cuts) to determine if fish are schooling there or just passing through. Catching a fish on each hook at the same time is indicative of a school, as opposed to catching one at a time.

SINGLE DROP RIG

As the name implies, the single drop rig is a slightly simpler version of the double drop, just with one branch line and one hook. But it usually has no color attractant attached. With less hardware to add wind resistance, this rig casts farther and straighter. That also means it has less to drag it around underwater, so it tends to stay where you cast it. Minimal hardware on this

This pompano fell for an orange float “pompano rig” baited with shrimp

rig is less visible to fish and less likely to spook wary fish. It depends on the scent trail from the bait to attract fish to the hook, and it too is quite effective in the right conditions. Plus, it obviously only uses half as much bait as a double rig!

The single drop can be fished in the open surf zone but is at its best placed near hard or soft structure with a moderate current to carry the scent to the fish. A small kahle hook (#4 or #6) is ideal with this rig when using a piece of shrimp or other small bait for most species . Yet those are strong enough to not straighten out on medium heavy tackle even with large incidental catches like bull redfish or big drum, as long as undue pressure is avoided.

FISH FINDER RIG

This most adaptable rig can be scaled smaller or larger to match most any conditions or target species. It performs best though in fairly calm conditions that allow the bait to rest naturally on the bottom. Then a fish may pick up the bait and move away to eat it without feeling resistance from the weight until the line comes tight. The ever-popular Carolina rig is a modified fish finder of sorts that employs an egg sinker on the main line. The line can move through the hole in the weight until it comes in contact with the swivel on the leader. It can be effective on light tackle or heavy, in shallow or deep water, close to the beach or cast far out to target a wide variety of species.

SINKER SLIDES FOR SURF FISHING

A sinker slide is a short plastic tube device the main line passes through to modify a fish finder rig. It has a snap to attach a pyramid or other bottom hugging sinker to enhance a fish finder rig’s effectiveness by allowing it to remain where the angler puts it, even in a moderate rip current. Or better yet, on the steeply angled drop off slope of a sandbar, a primary feeding zone for various fish in the surf. These are very practical for use with medium class spinning tackle a moderate distance (20 to 60 yards) from shore.

SHARK RIGS FOR SURF FISHING

A good thing about heavy spinning tackle is its versatility to target most any fish large or far from shore (outside the longshore sandbar). Basically, three foot long heavy (40# and up) monofilament leaders work well to target bull redfish and large black drum, especially when using crab for bait. When using live or cut bait, bull reds and jack crevalle become the target species, with bluefish, rays, big catfish, and small to medium coastal sharks as common bycatch. Sharks are better targeted with multi-strand, non-coated steel leaders at least the length of the shark to prevent being “tail-whipped”. Sharkskin is like sandpaper and highly abrasive to fishing line under tension. Casual surf anglers just looking for the thrill of a pull from a shark can just use a three to four foot heavy mono leader with a 10/0 circle hook. Smaller sharks along with the aforementioned species can be caught on a mono leader while larger sharks will usually break off at some point during the fight. Landing larger sharks requires more specialized tactics and gear that doesn’t cast well with the longer leaders needed.

CONCLUSION

As we gain experience with such a select basic assortment of surf rigs in the widely differing conditions to be encountered through the passage of seasons and years, anglers should be able to discover which rigs and patterns work best for them and most to their liking. Don’t let all the vast choices of terminal rigs we surf anglers are confronted with keep you from diving into or discovering the nuances of the sport that will ultimately make you more successful for every condition.

Product Links

https://www.eagleclaw.com/l141-l143-kahle-hook https://fishbites.com/tackle/ https://saltyspompanorigs.com/

Diagram of a basic double drop “Pompano rig”.

Diagram of a basic single drop “pompano rig”.

Diagram of basic Fishfinder rig with Sinker Slide.

Diagram of a basic Carolina rig with egg sinker

You can turn your jon boat into a really nice, functional bass boat with the right conversion kit .

Is a Jon Boat to Bass Boat Conversion Worth It?

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Every shorebound bass angler has sat on the banks and looked out in envy at boaters cruising down the river in big, sparkly, bass boats. Fishing can be a very cheap hobby. $100 will still buy you a serviceable rod and reel, a few soft baits to snag on a limb, a cooler to sit on, and maybe even a cold drink to go in that cooler. But boating? That’s a different matter altogether.

We’ve all heard the joke. BOAT stands for “Break out another thousand.”

The joke isn’t nearly as funny as it used to be given the recent spike in boat prices. At my local Bass Pro Shops, the cheapest bass boat they have, a Bass Tracker Classic XL, starts at $17k…double what it was a decade ago when I got out of college. That’s a significant expense, and it’s the starting point for a new boat. $40k to $70k packages are about the “average” right now, and that price isn’t coming down.

A budget-conscious angler looking for a hull can hardly fail to notice the much cheaper jon boats sitting on a boat dealer’s lot. These small craft are remarkably less expensive, but hardly ideal for fishing. But if you’re a savvy DIYer, the wheels start turning…

“A little framing, some deck material, some carpet, some wiring, some hatches…that could work!”

But would it, really?

To find out, we sat down on a recent episode of the Alabama Freshwater Fishing report to interview Chris Simmons and Ryan Marquis. Chris and Ryan own the southeastern Tiny Boat Nation store, which is the leading supplier of parts, supplies, and advice for anglers looking to turn a humble jon boat into a fully tricked-out bass fishing machine. They do custom builds, and also sell kits that simplify the building process.

JON BOATS VS BASS BOATS

Before you commit to a build, it’s important to realize that there are some limitations to working with a jon boat hull. For starters, these boats are smaller than an average bass boat. The typical 1436 jon is a small boat for one angler, and a very small boat if you add a second.

These small boats have low horsepower and weight capacities. You’re going to be looking at about a 9.9 - 25 hp transom rating, and a 600-1,000 lb total weight capacity. Start adding framework for a deck, a motor, gas

tank, batteries, a cooler, and gear, and you hit that weight limit surprisingly quickly, especially if you’re trying to frame the boat with 2x4s and plywood.

However, these small, rugged little boats do have a few key advantages over traditional bass boats.

“I’ve always had this real basic idea of fishing,” says Chris. “I don’t want to go to a lake and throw a lure at a bass that can probably tell you what was on sale at Cabela’s and Bass Pro Shop last weekend, because they’ve seen so much and are so highly pressured. I want to go places that other people are not able to get to, or don’t want to get to. And the appeal of a small jon boat, even a 16 footer, is that you can get into small rivers, creeks and other places where you couldn’t take a big bass boat.”

In addition to being able to access small, unpressured waterways, jon boats are also cheaper to maintain, store, and tow.

“It would hurt me a lot less,” Chris chuckles, “to put a hole in a jon boat doing something stupid like going up a river and hitting a rock than it would in a big old fiberglass boat. It’s a heck of a lot cheaper to fix a small aluminum boat than your typical bass boat.”

I can tow my own jon boat behind my 4-cylinder hatchback, which means I don’t need to gas up a $60k truck when I want to go fishing. The small footprint is also nice for anglers residing in apartment complexes or subdivisions with small yards and smaller garages.

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO CONVERT A JON BOAT INTO A BASS BOAT?

Now for the nitty-gritty. How much does it cost to turn a jon boat hull into a bassin’ machine?

“I’d say as long as you’re doing the build yourself,” estimates Ryan, “you’re probably looking at around $6k for everything. That’s for your aluminum, your EVA foam sheeting, live well and live well plumbing, latches, struts, hatches, recessed foot tray for a trolling motor…for the full nine yards, you’re looking somewhere around that $6,000 range.”

“And that’s minus electronics,” adds Chris. “Your sonar and trolling motor and all that stuff. That’s where builds really start getting expensive. It’s not hard to take a sixteen foot jon boat and drop $1,500-$2,000 just on

You can create storage areas in your jon boat with some added metal work .

electronics and batteries. And if you go for all lithium batteries, get a nice Ultrex, a couple of 12 inch graphs on the front and a live scope; you’re usually in for ten to fifteen grand.”

In addition to those figures, it’s important to remember that you also have to figure in the cost of the hull itself, as well as an outboard and a trailer. At the time of publication, a 1648 tracker hull goes for about $8k new, and you’re looking at about that much again to power it with a 40hp, tiller-steer, four-stroke. Add it all up, and to build a 16 foot jon into a bass boat will cost you around $27k pre-tax, assuming that you do all the work yourself and settle for fairly modest electronics. That’s about half what many bass boats cost, but still a considerable expense for most households.

“Of course, there are ways to cut that cost down,” Ryan advises “We have a lot of guys that do this through what we call the hybrid method, where they use aluminum framing, but plywood for the decks and stuff. If you have a bigger size boat, and you can afford to have the weight of a sheet of plywood or two on the boat, then yeah, that’s not a bad idea. That six grand figure is for 10% aluminum for your framing, decking, and hatches. So you get a better quality finished product than you would if you went with a plywood deck where you might be replacing it in three to five years.”

Ryan continues, “The other way to trim cost is to go with fewer storage hatches. Ballpark estimate; each dry hatch is roughly $200-$250 bucks, but what people forget is that with every hatch you need a latch, which is another $50. And then you need a strut, which can be another $25. And then you need the two strut brackets, which is another $10 or $15. The total cost of a hatch can be almost $350. So reducing the number of hatches in a build can bump that cost down a bit.”

Chris offers an additional way to trim cost. “We tell people, ‘If you want it nice, and you want it to last, EVA foam flooring is your best bet.’ It does carry a price though. Most 16 foot boats are going to need about 6 sheets to completely cover them. At $150 a sheet that adds up quickly. You can cut that cost down significantly by going with carpet. A lot of people don’t like carpet anymore. It’s also extremely labor intensive to put in. It doesn’t seem to last as long, and it’s just not as sexy as the EVA foam is these days. But that is definitely another way to cut down on costs.”

“Your livewell is another big expense,” Ryan adds. “If that’s something you can live without on the build, that’s about a grand back in your pocket.

HOW TO TURN A JON BOAT INTO BASS BOAT

With an understanding of cost out of the way, what’s the build process look like? How achievable is it for the average guy? And, most importantly, how do you make sure that you don’t screw it up along the way and find yourself out money in time and materials?

“I would say the first step is just taking a look at other people’s builds and seeing what you like and don’t like,” says Chris. “I think the hardest part is figuring out what you want to put into it, and where. Where do you want your rod locker? How far back do you want your trolling motor tray to be? Where is your tackle going? Where will you put your batteries? That whole planning phase takes a significant amount of time, but it’s just a lot of sitting down and looking at Facebook pictures and YouTube videos and stuff like that.”

“Once you get that nailed down, if you have a buddy, you can gut a boat in a day, maybe two at the most. Then the framing is actually one of the easier parts. If you’re doing it yourself, usually framing takes another day or two. You’ll spend most of that time actually

A jon boat to bass boat conversion

isn’t necessarily the absolute cheapest

option for those wanting a bass boat but what a DIY approach can get you is the boat you want at a lower price .

trying to lay stuff out and make sure that it looks halfway square, because most of these John boats ain’t anywhere near square or straight! So you spent a lot of time doing that and just kind of double checking things.”

“The finish work is what takes the longest. Wiring usually takes ten times longer than you think it will, especially if you’re wiring multiple bilge pumps, hatch lights, cockpit lights, gunwale lights, and all of that. Even when we do it at the shop, wiring jobs can take us several weeks to get everything done right and looking professional. As for the painting, that’s not really difficult, it’s just that you can’t paint the whole boat at once. You’ve got to paint the inside, wait for it to dry, and then flip it. Carpet can take several days to do, but what most people do is EVA foam these days. You can usually knock foam flooring out in a day, and the only reason it even takes that long is because people just get nervous running a razor blade over $150 sheet of the stuff. You end up spending a lot of time measuring and re-measuring, but the work itself is really fast.”

“If you’re doing it after work and on the weekends,” he concludes, “I’ve seen people do it as quick as five or six weeks, and I’ve seen others take two years to do one right.”

IS A JON BOAT TO BASS BOAT CONVERSION RIGHT FOR ME?

While you can save money building vs buying a bass boat, jon boat conversions aren’t ideal for everyone, according to Chris.

“People who are not comfortable using skill saws, miter saws, and other basic carpentry tools probably don’t need to attempt a jon boat build by themselves. Folks sometimes come to us who are like, ‘I don’t have a whole lot of tools, I don’t want to invest in a lot of tools, and I don’t have the time to do this.’ In those cases your best options are to just bring a hull in and let us do it, or just go buy yourself a bass boat.”

As we’ve seen, a jon boat to bass boat conversion isn’t necessarily the absolute cheapest option for those wanting a bass boat. But what a DIY approach can get you is the boat you want at a lower price. Most “budget” bass boats don’t come with big, tournament-sized livewells; fancy lighting; sound systems; EVA foam flooring; custom paint jobs, high-end electronics or customized storage solutions. Building your own boat lets you pick and choose which upgrades you can and can’t live without, meaning you end up with the boat that you want instead of the one that the dealer stocks.

CONCLUSION

Chris summarizes the appeal of jon boat to bass boat conversions well.

“The guys that are used to fishing on big water probably need to go with bigger boats. But if you really want to get out there and explore what the world has to offer, a small jon boat will get you to a lot of places. They’ll get you into those “hole-in-the-wall” places, and that’s where the best and most peaceful fishing is.”

GOLDEN SHINERSEverything You Need to Know

BY NICK WILLIAMS

GOLDEN SHINER OVERVIEW

Golden Shiners (Notemigonus crysoleucas) can be found throughout North America. They belong to the family Cyprinidae, which is the largest family of fish in the world and includes other members like carp and minnows. They are easily recognizable by their shiny, golden or silvery bodies. Breeding males exhibit orange-hued fins, and wild individuals are quite beautiful in an understated way. They grow to about 3 to 7 inches in length, but they can reach sizes up to 12 inches in optimal conditions.

Since they are not particularly strong swimmers, Golden Shiners prefer calm, vegetated waters and are commonly found in ponds, lakes, backwaters, and marshes. They thrive in a variety of environmental conditions but favor areas with abundant aquatic plants, which provide cover from predators and serve as spawning grounds.

Heavy vegetation also provides ample food. Golden Shiners are omnivorous,

Large Golden Shiners, like the one shown here, are excellent bass forage and big-bass bait .

feeding on a wide range of food sources including algae, small invertebrates, zooplankton, and detritus. They are schooling fish, often seen in large groups, which also helps protect them from predators.

SHINERS AS BAIT FISH

Golden Shiners are one of, if not the, most popular species for freshwater bait fishing in North America. Shiners lack protective spines on their dorsal and anal fins, and are easily eaten by piscivorous species. Bass, crappie, and catfish will all readily eat Golden Shiners, as will rough fish species such as bowfin and pickerel.

Shiners are easy to cultivate in farm ponds, which means they are economical to produce. Anglers looking for live bait can buy shiners from local bait shops easily; whether they’re looking for 2-3” long “crappie minnows” or 6-12” long behemoths for bass and catfish.

SHINER FISHING FOR BIG BASS

A mature shiner is a meaty but easy-to-swallow meal for a hungry, trophy-sized bass. Especially during the winter, there are few better ways to catch a really big bass than to free line a big shiner into deep water. Shiners can also be fished under a “bobber” made by blowing a small breath of air into a regular old party balloon. This jumbo-sized float will provide good resistance to a large shiner, preventing him from pulling it down into weeds and getting tangled or tiring himself out.

When fishing with shiners, one of the biggest challenges anglers face is keeping bait frisky. Dead and dying shiners won’t catch bass nearly as well as active fish that are swimming around “searching” for bass and triggering strikes by darting away from nearby bass.

It’s important to keep shiners cool and well-aerated, and to handle them as little as possible. This will ensure that they stay lively. Since big shiners aren’t cheap, taking good care of them is worth a little extra time and effort.

HOW TO HOOK BASS SHINERS

How you hook a shiner also plays a big part in how well it catches bass. While you’ll hear different things from different people, I personally prefer to hook shiners through a nostril, running the hook from the inside roof of the mouth and out the nostril. This method causes the least amount of damage to the fish, letting it stay more active for a longer period of time. It also keeps the hook point facing up and generally out of trouble from snags and weeds. While the fish may appear to be barely hooked, it’s fairly hard to fling the bait off the hook this way. Finally, while you can hook a shiner in the tail or through the back, a bass will always eat a bait-fish head first. By hooking through the nostril, you give yourself a better chance of a good hookset when the bass takes the bait.

HOW TO CATCH SHINERS

While you can buy shiners from almost any good bait shop, catching your own can be worthwhile. Big shiners are expensive, and may cost several dollars per individual fish. Shiners purchased at bait stores can also be in rough condition by the time you get them. They’re generally transported long distances in tanks on the backs of trucks, which is especially rough on the fish in hot conditions. If your bait shop isn’t selling lots of bait, they may also sit bait tank for a long time. Diligent bait shop owners regularly dying fish to keep from poisoning the live ones, but best practi always be followed.

If you’re looking to improve the quality of your live bait by c there are two main ways to go about it. First, shiners can be c cast nets or seines where legal. But in the weedy areas where G are most likely to be found, catching them with a hook and line practical.

An ultralight spinning rod with 2-4lb test is plenty of rod for For bait, segments of red wiggler worms are cheap and easy. Go small with your hook. Size 8 aberdeens will work, but to really improve ho size 12-14 3x fly fishing hook works great. Bait can be freelined under super-sensitive quill floats that will indicate the often

For added enjoyment, consider a 3wt or smaller fly rod. Large sh readily take traditional trout flies, and since they are a schoo action can be really hot when you locate them. With a lightweig surprise you how much fun catching your own bait can be.

STOCKING GOLDEN SHINERS IN YOUR POND

For managers of private ponds, Golden Shiners provide excellent bass. Norm Latona at Southeastern Pond Management has been help landowners manage their bass ponds for a long time, and knows t have big appetites that are hard to sustain without a little he

“Largemouth bass like to eat, eat and eat,” Norm says, “and the selves out of house and home, especially if pond owners don’t m there is a good balance between the predator bass population and the forage fish population. With largemouth bass, it is hard to keep groceries around!”

hot summers and cold winters. They are also prolific breeders, meaning that once established in numbers sufficient to resist predation, they’ll keep producing a steady supply of bass food.

Shiners are also good bass food throughout their life cycle, unlike bluegill, which can quickly grow to a size where they’re competing with bass for nutrients instead of feeding them.

“Bluegill are ideal forage for bass when they’re at what we call intermediate size,” Norm explains. And we define that as about three to five inches. And what can happen if you’re not careful, is you’ll have a pond that has big bluegill and skinny bass. Once a bluegill gets to be about the size of your hand, there’s just no way those bass can eat them. As soon as those bluegill reproduce, they spit out lots of tiny fry that will quickly grow up to an inch or two long. At this point, bass will start eating them. They’ll hammer them, because it’s all they have to eat. And so most of that batch of bluegill won’t make it past that size.”

This cycle can go on and on for quite a while, leaving you with anemic bass.

“What you ultimately get are racy, thin, twelve to fourteen inch bass that just never get any bigger because they’re starving.” says Norm. “The pond never produces the three to five inch bluegill that will make them jump up to that quality size. Those small fry are so inefficient, it’s like trying to gain weight by eating rice one grain at a time.”

While a bass can’t eat a big bluegill, soft-finned and elongated Golden Shiners are much easier prey for bass. They never grow to a size where they cease to be forage, making them ideal additions to a pond if you’re looking to fatten up your bass population. Norm recommends stocking them at a rate of approximately fifty to one-hundred pounds-per-acre for this purpose.

CONCLUSION

Ultimately, whether you’re looking to grow your own trophy-sized bass or catch them out in the wild, Golden Shiners can be a golden addition to your tool kit.

If you’re looking to help out with bass groceries, stocking Golden Shiners in your pond may be a good move. As a native species, shiners are resilient to

Choosing the Best Red Dot for Turkey Hunting

BY JOSH HONEYCUTT

How to pick a red dot sight scope for turkey shotguns, with great options for 2024.

Choosing the Best Red Dot for Turkey Hunting

Turkey hunting, like many other aspects of the outdoors, is driven by gear. Many wild turkey enthusiasts decide to hunt with a red dot scope each spring (and sometimes, fall). Here is a quick guide for choosing the best red dot for turkey hunting, with some great options for the 2024 season.

BEST RED DOT FOR SHOTGUN TURKEY HUNTING

Those who’ve turkey hunted for very long understand how valuable a red-dot sight can be. These are incredible for accurate shots on wild turkeys, especially at the far end of a turkey hunter’s ethical range. Fortunately, there are many great options on the market, but one preferred above the rest. That selection is the Trijicon MRO (https://www. trijicon.com/products/subcategory/trijicon-mro).

The MRO technically stands for “Miniature Rifle Optic,” but this sealed reflex sight works exceptionally well with shotguns, too. It offers fast target acquisition. It features a large aperture and tapered light path. This maximizes the viewing area, allows for better situational awareness, and gets shooters on target faster. It helps keep them on target, too.

Additionally, it features ambidextrous brightness controls, sub-flush adjusters, advanced lens coatings, and more. It boasts housing that’s crafted from waterproof, fully-sealed, hard-anodized forged 7075-T6 material. It’s built to be rugged and offers both superior quality in glass lenses and long-lasting power. It comes in numerous variations.

BEST BUDGET RED DOT FOR TURKEY HUNTING

Those who don’t want to pay hundreds of dollars for a higher-end red dot sight can land softly in the budget category. One of the best options for such a buy is the Bushnell RXS-100 Reflex Sight (https:// www.bushnell.com/red-dots/rxs-100-reflex-sight/BU-RXS100.html). It offers a 4 MOA dot with eight different brightness settings. It even sports a side battery door, and provides up to 5,000 hours of battery life.

This sight comes with a durable aluminum construction that’s aircraft grade, and does well protecting its glass and electronic internals. It even provides a great layout and design. It has 100-plus MOA adjustment range, a 50-yard maximum parallax distance, and more. It weighs 1.3 oz. Get it for $99.99.

BEST REFLEX SIGHT

Many turkey hunters like a good reflex sight for their hunting setup. The Venom (https://vortexoptics.com/vortex-venom-red-dot+reticle-3~MOA~Dot) by Vortex is an excellent option. This low-profile sight offers a rugged aluminum housing, which surrounds a large viewing window. It sports a great sight picture, 1X magnification, a 3 MOA Dot reticle, 1 MOA adjustment graduation, 100 MOA max windage adjustment, 130 MOA max elevation adjustment, and has a 3 MOA dot size. The dot is bright red. It comes with a weaver/picatinny rail mount.

It includes several features, including the ArmorTek, which is an ultra-hard, scratch-resistant coating that protects exterior lenses from scratches, oil, and dirt. It’s also fully multi-coated and shockproof, which provides a solid build that can withstand recoil, and some impacts. This sight also offers up to 150 hours of battery life on the highest setting. It produces up to 3,000 hours on the lower settings. The sight is 1.9 inches long and weighs 1.05 oz.

TRUGLO GOBBLE STOPPER

The Gobble Stopper Turkey Sight by TruGlo (https://www.truglo.com/ gobble-stopper-turkey-sight/) is a great option. Ranging from $80.99$102.99 (specifics depending), it’s a solid budget selection. It’s a durable sight that gets the job done without hammering the bank account.

Of course, it’s designed to fit any railed shotgun. It incorporates a Dual-Color Center Dot reticle, which can be changed between red or green, depending on preference. It also has a sunshade, effectively preventing glare, especially low-angle light common during early morning hunts. It even comes with a spare battery storage compartment. It comes fog-proof, shock-resistant, and water-resistant.

BEST RED DOT SCOPE FOR TURKEY HUNTING

The Freedom RS with Mount by Leupold (https://www.leupold.com/ freedom-rds-black-1x34-red-dot-w-mount) is another great choice, and is an excellent red dot scope for turkey hunting. This is a consistent, reliable option. It is an enclosed dot that stays clean, even in the elements. It even stays mounted and zeroed, even when changing the battery. It’s built for durability, even in rugged use.

This model comes with Motion Sensory technology, which helps extend battery life. Additional features include being fog-proof, water-proof, impact-tested (and verified), and comes equipped for extreme climate exposure. This system is 5.43 inches long and weighs 7.2 ounces.

BEST SHOTGUN OPTIC FOR TURKEY HUNTING

Those looking for the best shotgun optic for turkey hunting might also consider the Bushnell RXS-250 Reflex Sight (https://www.bushnell. com/red-dots/rxs-250-reflex-sight/BU-RXS250.html). This model has a great design, and has a 1 MOA per click adjustment rate. It’s very durable, too. This one weighs in at 1.4 oz.

It offers a clear 4 MOA dot with 10 brightness settings. It produces a great dot while optimizing battery life. It can last up to 50,000 hours (5-plus years) on the mid setting. But the battery is easy to replace, once time. It comes dust-proof, water-proof, and more. It comes fully multi-coated with true tone colors. It includes the Bushnell Lifetime Ironclad Warranty.

HOW TO MOUNT A RED DOT ON A SHOTGUN

The best way to mount a red dot sight on a shotgun is via a picatinny or weaver rail. If you don’t have a rail, there should be a tapped receiver for mounting one. Place the red dot on the rail, and determine where the best positioning is located. Make sure the red dot scope eye relief is correct for the primary shooter. That said, there isn’t really much eye relief to get right (or wrong) with a red dot sight, so it really boils down to preference. It’s more about field of view. Find what looks the best for you.

HOW TO SIGHT IN A RED DOT ON A SHOTGUN

Sighting in a red dot sight on a shotgun can be a difficult process, but doesn’t have to be. The zeroing process should be simple, if done correctly. Once the sight is mounted, shoot at a paper target at 20 yards. Adjust the scope as needed to center the shotgun pattern over the vitals (the turkey’s neck and head). Adjust the number of MOA clicks as needed to line it up.

Recipe by Hank Shaw, Photo by Holly A. Heyser • https://honest-food.net

Fried Turkey Nuggets

Prep: 25 mins • Cook: 25 mins • Total: 50 mins

Ingredients

COMEBACK SAUCE

• 1 cup mayonnaise

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 shallot, minced

• 2 tablespoons ketchup

• 1/4 cuo Heinz chili sauce

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• 1 teaspoon mustard powder

• 2 teaspoons hot sauce

• Salt

TURKEY NUGGETS

• 2 pounds turkey breast, cut into chunks

• 2 cups flour

• 1 tablespoon spice mix of your choice (Cajun, Cavender’s, Old Bay, etc.)

• 4 eggs, lightly beaten

• 1 cup buttermilk or regular milk

• 1/4 cup yellow mustard

• 2 sleeves Saltines

• oil for frying

Instructions

1. To make the sauce, put everything in a food processor or blender and puree. Set it aside.

2. Mix the flour with the spice mix; I use Cavender’s mostly. Mix together the eggs, buttermilk and mustard. Mash the Saltines. I do this by putting them in a heavy freezer bag and crushing them with a rolling pin.

3. Dredge about 1/4 of the turkey chunks in the flour, then the egg wash, then put them in the freezer bag with the crushed Saltines and shake well to coat. Before you take them out, press the crushed Saltines into the meat. Set the chunks on a baking sheet, and do the rest of the turkey, 1/4 of it at a time.

4. In an ideal world, you would rest the breaded turkey nuggets in the fridge for 1 hour. Do this if you can, because it will make the coating stick to the turkey better. If you are rushed for time, you can skip this.

5. When you are ready to fry, put enough oil in a large frying pan to come up about a finger’s worth (about 1/2 inch) and bring it to somewhere between 325F and 350F. Set a cooling rack over a baking sheet and put that in your oven. Set the oven to “warm.”

6. Fry the turkey nuggets in batches so you don’t crowd the pan. Set the finished turkey nuggets on the rack in the warm oven while you do the rest. Serve with the comeback sauce.

Vietnamese Fish with Cilantro

This Vietnamese fish recipe is one of the easier dishes on this website, a dish to make on a busy weeknight that comes together in about the same time it takes to make the steamed rice that goes along with it. It’s total Asian comfort food: Crispy pieces of fish bathed in a simple sauce, served with onions, chiles and lots of cilantro.

I normally use a wok to make this recipe, but a deepsided sauté pan or frying pan is just as good. You can use any fish here, but I prefer a lean, white fish. Good choices would be lingcod, Pacific rockfish, tilefish, walleye, yellow perch, catfish, red drum, cobia, sturgeon, striped bass, haddock... you get the point. Serve this with simple steamed rice and you have a great weekday dinner.

Prep: 15 mins • Cook: 15 mins • Total: 30 mins

Ingredients

• 2 pounds lean white fish, cut into 2-inch chunks

• Salt

• 3 tablespoons peanut oil

• 1 large onion, about 3 cups, sliced thin from root to stem

• A piece of ginger about the size of your thumb, peeled and sliced thin

• 1 tablespoon sugar

• 3 to 5 jalapenos or other hot chiles, seeded and sliced thin

• 4 tablespoons fish sauce

• 4 tablespoons water

• 1/2 cup chopped cilantro

• Juice of 2 limes

Instructions

1. Sprinkle salt over the fish. Heat the peanut oil in a large sauté pan or wok and add the fish. Sear the fish in the oil so one side of it gets a nice, golden brown crust. Don’t flip the fish, as you will finish cooking it later. Remove each piece of fish as it browns.

2. When all the fish is done, add the onions and ginger and a little more oil if needed. Stir-fry over very high heat until the edges of the onions begin to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the sugar, jalapeno chiles, fish sauce and water and bring to a boil.

3. Add the fish and gently toss everything to combine. Cover the pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Gently mix in the cilantro and turn off the heat. Add the lime juice and serve with steamed rice.

Turkey Gumbo

Prep: 20 mins • Cook: 3 hours • Total Time: 3 hours 20 mins

Ingredients

• ½ cup peanut oil, lard, or butter

• 1 cup flour

• 1 quart stock, turkey or other good similar stock

• 2 bell peppers, diced

• 2 celery stalks, diced

• 1 large yellow onion, diced

• 6 garlic cloves, minced

• 2 to 4 turkey drumsticks

• ¼ teaspoon celery seed

• 2 bay leaves

• 2 tablespoons Cajun or Creole seasoning

• ¼ to ½ pound smoked sausage or tasso ham, cut into coins or chunks

• 1 pound peeled, raw shrimp

• 1/2 pound sliced okra (or 2 tablespoons filé powder)

• Tabasco or other hot sauce to taste

• Chopped green onions, for garnish

Instructions

1. Pour the stock and 1 quart water into a pot and bring it to a simmer.

2. In a large, heavy soup pot, heat the peanut oil over medium-high heat. Stir in the flour to make a roux and cook this, stirring often, until it’s the color of milk chocolate. You’ll need to stir this more often as it cooks so it doesn’t burn. This should take about 15 minutes.

3. Add the diced vegetables and the garlic, and mix well. Let this cook over medium heat until soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in the celery seed, bay leaves, and Cajun seasoning.

4. Bring the stock to a full boil and start adding it ladle by lade into the soup pot. It will sputter and seize up at first, but keep adding the stock until it has all incorporated. Bring this to a full, rolling boil and let this boil for a couple of minutes.

5. Turn the heat back down to a simmer and add the turkey drumsticks. Taste for salt and let this simmer until the meat wants to fall off the bone, a couple of hours. Remove the turkey legs and pull the meat from the bone.

6. Add the sausage, shrimp, and okra or about a tablespoon of filé to thicken, and let this simmer 5 minutes. Add Tabasco to taste and serve garnished with green onions over rice.

NEW & Cool gear

BY NICK WILLIAMS

Excalibur 9-Tray Food Dehydrator

The Excalibur 3926TB Electric Food Dehydrator has a 26-hour time so it is ideal for dehydrating a wide range of foods such as fruits, vegetables, jerky, homemade yogurt and so much more. It is the perfect way to make wholesome snacks for you family. Excalibur’s patented Parallexx Horizontal Airflow distributes air evenly over each tray allowing food to dry faster, retain more nutrients and taste better. Hyperwave Technology ensures food temperature stays low enough to maintain enzymes and nutrients in foods being dehydrated by controlling evaporative moisture. With 9 trays that measure 15 x 15 inches each, and 15 square feet of dehydrating space, you will have plenty of room to dry a large quantity of food. The adjustable thermostat lets you set the temperature from 105 degrees Fahrenheit to 165 degrees Fahrenheit.

Hayman Safe Co. “Rockies” Series Gun Safes

The Rockies gun safe mission is to deliver commercial-level firearm security for in-home gun storage. Offered in four different sizes to meet the needs of seasoned gun owners with mature arsenals as well as new gun owners with modest collections of long guns and handguns, the new Rockies series has a model to fit any residential gun storage requirement. Safes range from the 6466 in3 capacity model RK 5922E up to the 42,286 in3 model RK 7242 E.

The Rockies premium-level gun safes are built with a 3/16-inch steel body and a 1/2-inch steel door supported with heavy-duty hinges for long life and smooth operation. Door security comes via a three-way active boltwork with ten to twelve 1 1/2-inch locking bolts. A drillresistant hardplate protects both the lock and secondary relocker for additional security Integrated two-hour fire protection provides owners with an overall door thickness of 2 1/8 inches and an overall body thickness of 2 3/8 inches.

Savage Gear Manic Shrimp

Uncharted Supply Co First Aid Plus Kit

The First Aid Plus Kit from Uncharted Supply Co. is securely organized inside a 100% waterproof, 600D cloth pouch with welded seams and a tear-away MOLLE backer. Strap it to your boat, side-by-side, truck, or tractor and you’ll be ready for any emergency off the beaten trail. In addition to essential first aid supplies, it also contains a flashlight, multi-tool, matches, duck tape, and other emergency gear.

Crafted based on 3D scans from a real shrimp, this lure features a tail section infused with a durable nylon mesh for enhanced strength. Rigged with a weighted ultra-sharp EWG hook, it ensures a successful and efficient catch. Available in three sizes (2½”, 4”, and 5”), this fishing essential brings realism and durability to your angling experience. Upgrade your fishing game with the ultimate in lifelike bait technology

Berkley Powerbait Saltwater Power Swimmer

The Power Swimmer features a lifelike profile that mimics baitfish. Its large thumping paddletail displaces more water enabling fish to better track the bait. Perfectly rigged on a jig head or weighted EWG hook and infused with our proven Saltwater PowerBait formula, it guarantees results with reliable paddletail actions that attract a variety of fish. Explore lifelike saltwater colors and enjoy multiple rigging options, ensuring the Power Swimmer is your go-to choice for a successful day on the water.

ALPS OutdoorZ Waterproof Rifle Case

Constructed of a waterproof 500D welded PVC outer shell, the new ALPS OutdooZ waterproof rifle case integrates high-density closed-cell flotation foam that not only protects your rifle from the inevitable bumps and dings when horsepacking or transporting in a vehicle or ATV, but also ensures your rifle stays dry during inclement weather. The dry bag-style roll-top closure system provides a tight seal to keep water out and offers an adjustable fit for rifles up to 53 inches long and up to 10.5 inches in height.The case’s rugged construction includes three external compression straps on the side that allow you to further secure the rifle in the case for a snug, protective fit. These straps can also be used to secure a tripod or other shooting support system, so you have everything you need when it is time to make the shot.

ALPS Nomad Vehicle Organizer

To help keep your truck functional and your gear safely and conveniently stowed, ALPS OutdoorZ has developed the Nomad vehicle organizer.

The Nomad is a panel system that hangs from the back of your vehicle’s front seats. Offered in Mossy Oak® Original Bottomland® or stylish two-tone charcoal and black, the Nomad features a universal mounting design that easily secures to the headrest and seat bottom. Both panels (Nomad comes in a set of two) feature two large, zippered pockets across the top — one with an outer mesh pocket and the other featuring a hook-and-loop patch. An expansive open pocket on the bottom third of the panel is suitable for storing large items. Additionally, two magnetic closure pockets integrated onto the outside of the bottom pocket are perfect for stowing small items you need quickly. Three MOLLE webs allow you to further customize storage options.

To keep soft-cased long guns secure, the Nomad includes a drop-down slot-style scabbard. Simply unbuckle the scabbards on both panels and insert the cased long guns through the scabbard loops. This keeps guns off the floorboard and makes room for additional gear or rear seat passengers.

HUK Icon X Hoodie

Breeo Live-Fire Pizza Oven

Easily convert your fire pit into an authentic pizza oven in just seconds with the Breeo Live-Fire Pizza Oven. Engineered and manufactured with the same quality Breeo is known for, the pizza oven comes with extra-thick pizza stones that retain heat and an adjustable chimney vent for temperature control. It is available in both stainless or Corten* finishes to match your aesthetic. Bring the fire, flavor, and passion of woodfired cooking to a whole new level with the Breeo Pizza Oven.

The Huk ICON X Hoodie is the most technically advanced performance fishing shirt designed for hardcore anglers. This breathable material spreads moisture over a larger surface area, creating a rapid drying effect that cools the body after coming into contact with perspiration. The synthetic fibers allow air to pass through the shirt and contain a hydrophobic coating that transports sweat to drier areas, away from the skin.

Searun Fly Rod Cases

The Andrea Larko Artisan Series by Sea Run Cases features premium fly fishing travel cases adorned with the artwork of Andrea Larko. These cases are designed for both style and protection, offering a unique blend of functionality and artistic expression that caters to avid fly fishing enthusiasts who appreciate the elegance of custom artwork. This series includes various models like the Norfork Classic QR Expedition and Riffle Daily Compact, each designed to accommodate specific rod lengths.

Missing the Legendary Dr. Bob Shipp

BY CHRIS BLANKENSHIP Commissioner of the Alabama Department of Conservation & Natural Resources

Growing up on Dauphin Island and working as a deckhand on a charter boat as a teenager, I always admired and appreciated Dr. Bob Shipp, probably more than he realized. Dr. Shipp, a pillar of the marine sciences community for the Gulf of Mexico, passed away last month at age 81. I will miss him for a variety of reasons, but especially for the way he translated complex fisheries management into issues that everyone could understand.

Dr. Shipp, who was originally from New Orleans and received a Ph.D. in biology from Florida State University, joined the Department of Biology at the University of South Alabama (USA) in 1972. He spent 40 years at USA, basically starting the Department of Marine Sciences from scratch. He received Professor Emeritus status soon after he retired in 2013. Dr. Shipp also served 27 years on the Gulf of Mexico Fishery Management Council, one of the longest tenures in Gulf Council

history, and he was appointed to the Alabama Conservation Advisory Board in 2010 during the recovery process from the Deepwater Horizon oil spill. Dr. Shipp was a fixture at the Dauphin Island Sea Lab, where he taught and participated in numerous research projects.

As I worked my way up from Conservation Enforcement Officer with the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources’ (ADCNR) Marine Resources Division (MRD) to MRD Director to Conservation Commissioner, Dr. Shipp –Bob as he always insisted I call him – was someone I always counted on for guidance in finding solutions that would protect our fisheries resources while also providing the public as much access as possible. I will always fondly remember our times whacking golf balls around Springhill College Golf Course; those rounds of golf gave me four hours to pick his brain about a lot of things. His knowledge was broad,

Dr Bob Shipp cherished his role as the head judge at the Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo and always had a smile on his face

Photo by David Rainer

and I so enjoyed those outings. Though he implored me to call him Bob, I had too much respect for him and all he had done to just call him Bob. He was revered in his field and deserved so much respect for all his excellent work.

Dr. Shipp was dedicated to fisheries science and how that science could best be used for fisheries management. His almost three decades of service on the Gulf Council was legendary. He was known for confronting federal scientists on computer models that didn’t make sense in the real world.

He introduced me to the term “Area Depletion,” which describes impacts on a fishery in a small geographic area due to fishing pressure. He used this term to describe what happens to Spanish mackerel stock in areas where gill net fishing occurs along the beaches in the spring as well as to describe the lack of fish in a 20-mile semicircle from Perdido Pass that gets fished hard close to shore for red snapper. The overall stocks of these fish populations are fine, but fishermen may not think that because some of the areas they fish have been pummeled for a period of time each year.

More than a decade ago, Dr. Shipp proffered the idea that we close waters 40 to 45 miles offshore to red snapper fishing while allowing a full season within 40 miles. He reasoned that there was a huge population offshore of big, spawning fish and that, if we kept that brood stock intact, it did not matter how many fish we harvested closer to shore because the fishery would always replenish itself from this large offshore spawning stock biomass. He never could get NOAA to catch onto this idea, but then the Great Red Snapper Count showed exactly what he had been saying for years. As usual, Dr. Shipp was far ahead of the rest of the world in his thoughts on fisheries management.

While Dr. Shipp had vast knowledge about almost every Gulf of Mexico fish species imaginable, he will likely be remembered most for his extensive research on red snapper, Alabama’s signature fish species. Dr. Shipp’s research in Alabama’s artificial reef system, the largest in the nation, continues to contribute to the health of the snapper population off Alabama’s shores. Dr. Sean Powers, who succeeded Dr. Shipp as head of the Stokes School of Marine and Environmental Sciences at USA, shared something that bears repeating. Dr. Powers credited his predecessor with an important breakthrough in snapper research.

“There are some things with red snapper specifically that Bob figured out before anybody else,” Dr. Powers said. “He had been telling the feds for a long time that the red snapper stock assessments are wrong, that there are a lot of big red snapper deep that are not being sampled. It’s something we call cryptic biomass. They dismissed Bob out of hand and said it was a fairytale. Fast forward 20 years with $10 million and the Great Red Snapper Count and guess what? The reason we have more red snapper is because of cryptic biomass in deep waters. They are never sampled and never targeted by fishermen. That means we have this incredible buffer in the population.”

And I’ll never forget the many, many times I watched Dr. Shipp weigh in fish of every size and species as head judge of the Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo (ADSFR) on Dauphin Island, a position he held for 35 years. It was obvious that Dr. Shipp enjoyed every minute of it with his smiling face and interaction with the anglers. He always obliged when someone wanted a picture with him.

Following longtime Rodeo Judge Roy Martin was a difficult task for anyone, but Dr. Shipp loved the opportunity. When I was a kid weighing in fish in the Dauphin Island Young Anglers Tournament, Dr. Shipp always gushed over my catch and made me feel special, just like he did the thousand other kids weighing in fish. When I started fishing the Big Rodeo and working for MRD, I really got to see him in his element as Rodeo Judge. He was like a king holding court, especially when fish in the “Most Unusual Fish” category were brought to the scales.

Not only did Dr. Shipp relish the opportunity to see a wide variety of fish species from the Gulf and Alabama coastal waters, but he also shared that opportunity with his colleagues as often as possible. He brought scientists and researchers to the ADSFR from all over the world, which resulted in specimens from the rodeo being displayed in the London Natural History Museum and the Smithsonian Natural History Museum, just to name a couple.

Shipp’s extensive knowledge of the fish of the Gulf of Mexico was put into book form with the publishing of “Dr. Bob Shipp’s Guide to the Fishes of the Gulf of Mexico.” The book was written for anglers and the general public to use to identify fish but also included recipes and other information. If you don’t have a copy, get in touch with CCA Alabama (www.ccaalabama.org/).

I will miss the renowned USA Fisheries Biologist Dr. Robert Shipp. I will miss Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo Judge Bob Shipp. I will miss Gulf of Mexico Fisheries Management Council member Dr. Shipp. Most importantly, I will miss my friend Dr. Bob. He brought joy to my life and so many others by his dedicated service to fisheries and through his steadfast friendship. His was a life welllived!

Don’t wait to do things you enjoy until you “have time” to do them.

BY CHARLES “CHUCK” SYKES

Director of the Alabama Division of Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries (WFF)

Benjamin Franklin is quoted as saying, “Don’t put off until tomorrow what you can do today.” Those profound words apply to a myriad of things in both our personal and professional lives, usually on a daily basis. Most of us live hectic lives. Between work (sometimes two and three jobs), kids’ events, and other personal obligations, we are all stretched pretty thin. This tends to force us to decide to put things off until later.

I’ll be the first to admit that I fall victim to putting things off as much as anyone. However, several events have taken place over the last few months that have made me reexamine my priorities. As you all may recall, I have written several articles over the years concerning hunting accidents, and I’m happy to report that we had zero hunting fatalities during the past two seasons. Unfortunately, we were not

able to make it a threepeat this year.

On Thursday, February 1, I had an indepth conversation with Marisa Futral, the WFF Hunter Education Coordinator, about our work over the past decade that had led to a reduced number of accidents and what we could do in the future. We agreed to continue the conversation and set some goals to meet again in early fall just ahead of deer season.

I left later that day and drove to Nashville to attend and speak at a conference. My wife and I were at dinner Saturday night with several colleagues when I received a call from a friend. I didn’t answer because I didn’t want to be rude at dinner and let it go to voicemail. That same friend immediately called back. When I didn’t answer the second time, my wife’s phone started ringing.

I knew something had to be terribly wrong for him to try me twice and then her. I excused myself and walked outside to call him back. What I heard coming from the other end of the line was shocking to say the least. He informed me that Marisa had collapsed while deer hunting with her husband. She was taken to the hospital where she passed away a short time later from a massive brain aneurysm.

Her death leaves a big hole to fill within the Wildlife and Freshwater Fisheries Division. She had a stellar 19-year career with WFF. Not only was she well respected within the agency, but she also represented Alabama as the President of the International Hunter Education Association for two years, was an instructor for the Conservation Leaders for Tomorrow program, and too many other positions to name. She was a true leader in the conservation area and will be greatly missed.

If you recall from last month’s article, I referenced a friend and colleague who’d been diagnosed with cancer. Despite the fact that we are both busy and he’s undergoing treatments, we agreed not to wait until next deer season to get together. So he drove from South Carolina to Choctaw County for a meeting with me and some of my staff and to do a bit of hunting the last couple of days of the season.

I know I keep going back to “you will recall previous articles,” but here’s one more. Daddy and I have been hunting together every year since I was six. Although the number of times have greatly varied throughout the years, we’ve managed to hunt together at least once for the past 46 years.

Daddy’s age and Parkinson’s disease made things quite a bit more

difficult this year, but my wife and I managed to get him up the ladder into the elevated box blind for an afternoon hunt the last Friday of the season. Despite the fact that hunting conditions were miserable with temperatures hovering around 80 and southerly winds playing tricks, I was able to take an overmature doe to extend the streak to 47 years.

The weather was the worst I can remember for the last few days of the 2023-24 deer season. But we made the best of it. My friend and I spent some quality time in the woods after a productive meeting, and I was able to spend one afternoon in a blind with the four people I cherish the most, my father, my wife, and my fourlegged son.

So, I guess what I’m asking y’all to do is not to put off until tomorrow what you SHOULD do today. It would’ve been very easy for me not to make time to hunt with my father or my friend the last week of the season. Heck, I even considered not writing an article this month because I let the deadline slip up on me.

It would probably be a good idea to make a list right now of a couple of things that really shouldn’t wait any longer. It could be things that you’ve been putting off intentionally or unintentionally. Maybe it’s as simple as calling an old hunting buddy from the past or as serious as eternal salvation by getting your life right with Jesus Christ. Regardless, don’t wait.

Make sure the people you care the most about know exactly how you feel about them. No one is guaranteed tomorrow so don’t waste another day! In the words of Paulo Coelho, “Life is short Kiss slowly, laugh insanely, love truly, and forgive quickly.”

AL & NW Florida Saltwater Fishing Forecast

BY TANNER DEAS

Photos by Tanner Deas

Warmer temperatures have become regular, water temperatures ease into the 70s, (possibly lower 80s), and spring time’s golden period of fishing is upon us. The first spawn of the year looms ahead and migratory species that wintered down south should be making their way west. From endless offshore opportunities when the weather allows it, to some of the best inshore and nearshore fishing of the year, April is a special time. For all anglers across the board, during this month, there should be no shortage of action.

INSHORE:

April is a prime time for trophy Speckled Trout. Grass beds, flats, oyster beds, slopes and drop offs from two to six feet in depth

should be loaded down with some quality fish. Accessing these areas in the boat is great, but wade fishing these areas and becoming “one with the fish” in their own environment can prove to be one of the funnest and most thrilling ways to target and catch these fish. Preparing for what is most likely their first spawn of the year, Speckled Trout feed heavily in order to have the energy and nutrients they need to contribute to the next generation of speckled fangs. Larger profiled lures like the Pure Flats Slick Lure, Paul Brown’s Corky, Mirrolure MR27/MR28, and larger grubs like the Coastal Brew Bait Co. 6” Dart or Z-Man Fishing Productz 5” Scented PaddlerZ paired with Eye Strike Fishing’s Trout Eye or Finesse Eye jig head works perfectly in these

scenarios. Using a Carolina rig with rattle weights or free lining live baits like Menhaden, Mullet, Croakers and Pinfish in these scenarios leads to an almost guaranteed successful fishing trip. Redfish bycatch can be seen from time-to-time cruising these areas as well, and flounder will begin to ease their way back into our inshore waters after spending their winter spawning and hiding from the cold temperatures in deep holes offshore.

When running from spot to spot, especially in the Bay and Mississippi Sound areas, keep a look out for first showings of Blackfish, commonly called Tripletail. These fish can be found floating on their side, feeding on glass minnows, finger mullet, menhaden, shrimp and any other unlucky meal that swims by the floating piece of trash that these fish call home. Tripletail can be found on debris, fish carcasses, crab pot buoys, channel markers, poles, tide lines, or even free swimming to find their next piece of trash. Target these fish by freelining live shrimp, using a popping cork, or by using a slip cork in order to fish for them down deep. Larger sized live shrimp is usually the way to go however these fish have been known to eat any size shrimp you throw at them (dead or alive) and don’t seem to mind the occasional finger mullet or menhaden either!

NEARSHORE:

The Sheepshead spawn continues! Nearshore gas and oil rigs should be covered in crustacean eating convicts that are all focused on one thing, making babies. This spawning should continue until the last full moon of the month but can sometimes last on through the first week or two of May. During the spawn, Sheepshead are very bold and unphased by boats, anglers and their lines/baits flying at them from all directions. These fish will just about eat anything while in these spawning frenzy and can be targeted using live/dead shrimp, fiddler crabs, hermit crabs, barnacles, oysters, and even sand fleas.

Spanish and King Mackerel begin to make their way into our waters this time of year and can be caught using several different methods. Free lining live shrimp, small menhaden, or small finger mullet on wire leaders around the gas rigs or feeding frenzy is a local favorite for targeting Spanish Mackerel. Floating ballyhoo, menhaden, croaker, hardtails and other baits under large floats, small buoys or balloons with heavy mono or wire leader is a popular method when targeting King Mackerel. Find the bait, find the fish. Trolling spoons, lipped diving plugs, and dusters around three to five miles per hour should do the trick for plenty of Mackerel. On the days they are found running deeper, using a planer will help get your lures down to proper depth. Feeding frenzies on surface can be seen when trolling/running the nearshore waters. Casting 1/2oz - 2oz spoons, bucktails, or anything else that matches a small minnow like profile could lead to some really hot Spanish Mackerel, Bluefish, Ladyfish and even Bull Redfish action.

Nearshore anglers and anglers headed offshore will also be on the lookout for the beginnings of Cobia season. With these fish traveling down the beaches making their first migratory movements of the year, they’ll be looking to follow the bait and can be caught along the beach or on heavy structures that offers a nice pit stop for their travels and lots of bait to feed on. These fish are very aggressive and can be sight casted with feather/bucktail jigs as well as with live baits like Eel, Croaker, Menhaden, Crazy Fish, and even catfish. Once on heavy structure, if the Cobia aren’t visible on surface, these same live baits can be used on Carolina rigs or Knocker rigs to target the middle and bottom water column and often lead to getting bit if the fish can’t be seen on top.

OFFSHORE:

Scamp, Red, and Black Grouper (Gag Grouper closed) should reopen

FISHING FORECAST

this month, making for excellent table fare when targeting bottom fish species while offshore fishing. Natural bottom areas are best when targeting Grouper and seem to yield less bycatch like Red Snapper and Triggerfish. Cigar Minnows, Hardtails, Pinfish, Pilchards and Sardines are great live bait options when targeting Grouper and should be fished on heavy gear directly on or just off bottom. These fish like to search for structure and are notorious for breaking anglers off on bottom, especially the big ones.

Tuna time still continues around the oil and gas platforms.Yellowfin Tuna, Blackfin Tuna, the occasional Big Eye Tuna and the rare (for our area) Bluefin Tuna will be on the slate as target species when Tuna fishing. Live bait chumming/live baiting, chunking, kite fishing/trolling ballyhoo, popping and jigging are good methods to target these fish. Tuna fish can be VERY particular and dialed in on a certain feed so it is always best to be fully prepared to put multiple tactics in use until you figure out exactly what they want. Bring all the gear and don’t forget to check Hilton’s Realtime Navigator to know what the water conditions are like offshore so you can make the proper plan to get yourself and your crew on the fish.

This time of year is also top tier Sword fishing. Daytime or nighttime could potentially yield the fish of a lifetime. This reliable target can be found just past the 200 fathom line, and finding bait at depth is usually the key to success. Daytime and nighttime methods vary just a bit and at night there’s typically way more lines out than during the day. Daytime Swordfishing consists of dropping baits, usually one or two lines, in 1200-1400 feet of water (and even deeper) with whole squid, hand rigged bonito belly or some type of whole fish (ex. hardtail). Generally, Swordfish are not very picky and will hit almost whatever bait you drop down to them, the key is sticking the fish and actually hooking up. Nighttime methods are similar in the sense that the bait doesn’t change; however, the depths that you target during the night hours are drastically different. At night, baits three to five lines are put out in varying depths, anywhere from 50-750 feet in depth, as these fish are seemingly known to be more comfortable near the surface at the darker hours.

Pier & Shore Fishing Outlook

Pompano are by far the most sought after fish from the gulf beaches this month .

Once more pelagic species arrive there are more fish to target either in the surf or from the pier .

BY DAVID THORNTON

Photos by David Thornton

As is often the case during El Nino years, copious rains spawned from powerful spring storm systems can bring coastal flooding in April. That, along with below average water temperatures could temporarily delay the arrival of pelagic species along the Emerald Coast. Frequent rains bring bouts of high winds, rough surf, and dingy water that impinge on fishing from shore. To be more successful, these anglers need to watch the weather cycles and water conditions to plan their fishing times accordingly.

On the plus side, a general increase in abundance of species and overall feeding activity can be expected in April as historically gulf water temperatures rise through the upper 60s into the lower 70s.

Strong tidal fluctuations during the first, middle, and last weeks of the month should assist anglers fishing from the gulf beaches and piers. While weaker currents around the NEAP tide periods centering on the 7th and 20th of the month should aid jetty and pass anglers. Even though more fish species are now available, their movements and feeding activity are still greatly influenced by the tide and currents especially in proximity to larger bays and inlets.

TARGET: POMPANO

Florida pompano are undoubtedly the most popular member of the jack family for shorebound anglers, and the favorite target species overall by surf and pier anglers on the beach end of the Panhandle piers. Pompano are sought after not just for sport

but renowned as food as well. The beach run of pompano is at a yearly peak in April when these fish gather in pre-spawn schools as the shallow surfzone waters can warm more rapidly and harbor more food.

Pompano are constantly on the move in the surfzone searching for food around sandbar cuts, along drop-offs, and near rip currents where moving water may dislodge something for them to eat. Their typical prey items are beach ghost shrimp, sandfleas, coquina clams, along with a variety of other small invertebrates.

Most surf fishers bait up with readily available frozen or dead shrimp to target pompano, with good success. These are fished on regionally tied and commercially sold dual hook bead and/or float rigs, locally called Pompano Rigs. They are cast out on 7 to 12 foot rods toward the longshore sandbar, and anchored to the bottom by a 2 to 4 ounce pyramid or other bottom holding sinker. Those may be so-called storm sinkers (a modified pyramid), or sputnik sinker (with movable wires) that secure into the bottom even in rough surf conditions.

Adding a thumbnail sized piece of Fishbites (a dissolving scent strip) next to the piece of shrimp can enhance the odds of attracting and hooking fish. But pompano anglers who downsize their tackle to 12 pound class (or lighter) spinning tackle in calmer conditions not only catch more fish, but get more enjoyment from the smashing strikes and darting runs of these surf dwellers. Bycatch with this method in April often produces whiting (Gulf kingfish), ground mullet (Northern or Southern kingfish), redfish, black drum, sheepshead, bluefish, ladyfish (skipjack), blue runner (hardtail) and perhaps even a flounder or two, and of course the much disdained hardhead catfish and stingrays.

As waves calm down, the water usually clears once sediments, stirred by the swells and wind, settle to the bottom. Whenever we have several consecutive calm days, underwater visibility may improve to the point perhaps exceeding 10 feet instead of the 3 to 5 foot average. Pompano and other near shore feeding species can get finicky at these times, possibly abandoning their shallower (4 to 8 feet deep) beach holes temporarily, especially on a falling tide under clear skies. These are the times when jigging for pompano can be very productive as the angler is covering much more water than just the traditional set rig method. Wading while casting ¼ to ¾ ounce short haired lead head pompano jigs are a tried and true technique for pompano angling, even this early in the season. And tipping the jig with a sandflea, small piece of fresh shrimp, or strip of Fishbites is a great way to add additional scent and attraction to your offering.

Small jigs work best tied directly to light mono line (4# to 10#) on 2000 to 3000 sized reels, with a line capacity of 150 to 200 yards. Even what is considered freshwater tackle can be used, but better results come from matching with light to medium fast action 7 to 9 foot rods. This allows for more casting distance and sensitivity over the action imparted to the jig, which should always be kept near the bottom. Often the strike comes as the lure drops back toward the bottom, so be prepared. In the calmest and clearest of water, no leader should be used, or only a foot to two feet of 20# fluorocarbon if line cutting ladyfish, bluefish or spanish mackerel are prowling about the same area.

APRIL ALTERNATIVES ABOUND

Once more pelagic species arrive there are more fish to target either in the surf or from the pier. April is a very active month for spanish mackerel from the Panhandle piers. There, fishing for spanish mackerel with Gotcha plugs, and ½ ounce white leadhead jigs on medium light to medium spinning tackle becomes a normal daily routine. Limits of spanish mackerel (15 per person) are commonly caught in just a few hours from the piers. As well, fishermen on jetties, the seawall at Perdido

Pass, and even occasionally from beaches catch spanish mackerel on these same small lures along with similar bycatch of bluefish, ladyfish and blue runner.

King mackerel are attracted to the Panhandle piers in April by the mass schooling of baitfish (called cigar minnows, herring, and LYs). Anglers catching and casting these live baits (or even frozen cigar minnows or medium sized plugs) often catch a variety of other species as well, including pesky bluefish, large spanish mackerel, super fast bonita (Little tunny), hard fighting jack crevalle, and the highly prized ling (cobia).

But this year, pier anglers from Alabama’s Gulf State Park Pier, and Pensacola Beach Pier in Florida will have to look elsewhere to fish, as repairs continue on these venues and they remain closed. So, the other Panhandle piers in Florida (Navarre, Okaloosa, and 2 in Panama City Beach) may see an influx of displaced anglers. Just be patient!

Less windy, calmer periods in April should see an influx of activity with speckled trout along the beaches of Alabama and Mississippi. Live shrimp presented on light line is a proven way to catch trout from shore or jetties, and that provides bycatch of pompano, sheepshead, bluefish, black drum, redfish, whiting, ladyfish, blue runner, spanish mackerel and even flounder. Though wade and jetty fishers catch a lot of specks on live shrimp, lures work as well (or better) at times by covering more water to help the angler locate schools of feeding fish. Topwater plugs like Rapalla’s Skitterwalk or Heddon Spook are favorites for early or late in the day. At other times, soft plastic tail lures like Fin-S and Zoom Fluke on a 1/8 or ¼ ounce jighead may temp trout into biting.

April is prime time to get after an increasing variety of fish accessible from a wide variety of shore bound venues, or just to be enjoying these great days outdoors!

Fishing Outlook

BY ED MASHBURN

by Ed Mashburn

Photos

Spring is here in the Deep South, and the fish are biting. Whether we go to the creeks, rivers, or lakes, anglers can fill up ice chests with delicious crappie or work the shorelines for hungry bass. Even the trout in cold water flows are biting well now.

No matter the fish we like best, it’s hungry and eager to bite now. Let’s see what some of the best anglers in our area can tell us about the springtime fishing.

ALABAMA WATERS

MILLER’S FERRY

For best fishing regardless of the target, anglers will want to concentrate on the sloughs such as Gold Mine, Marina Slough, and Hog Pen Slough where the water will warm faster than the rest of the lake.

“It’s all going to be wide open. Everything will be in full-blown spring patterns,” Joe Dunn of Dunn’s Sports in Thomasville told us.

For bass anglers that means they’ll want to work the banks at Miller’s Ferry using spinnerbaits, buzzbaits and chatterbaits. We can’t go wrong if we use white and chartreuse, white and blue, and Joe’s favorite color combination, white and gold in the spinnerbaits.

Bass anglers can also find good bass by flipping jigs in the growing grass mats.

Crappie anglers will also want to be looking at shallow water. Crappie will be on the spawning grounds in the shallows, and anglers can work the banks with live minnows under floats. Dunn says that vertical jigging around the stumps will produce lots of slabs in April- look in four to six feet of water.

Catfish will be hot too. All of the shallow flats will have catfish in April and jugs with one to foot long lines will work well. For best catfish catching, fresh cut shad will be the best bait.

LAKE WILSON/PICKWICK

Mouths of major creeks like Shoal, McKernan, Six Mile, and Big Nance will all hold staging fish this month. In the main lake fish should concentrate along the base of bluff lines relating vertically to blow downs and chunk rock where present. Some fish will always be on or near the bottom, but look for fish to start suspending in the water column as the water warms throughout the month. A good way to catch these cats is to use a 2/0 or 3/0 Mister Twister weighted worm hook to medium heavy action spinning tackle and bait with shad, skipjack, or chicken livers and cast toward bluff and allow to slowly fall to the bottom. If live crayfish can be found they are deadly for big blue cats fished this way.

‘We’ll have a potentially wider range of water temperatures this month. Water temperatures will begin in the low to mid 50’s and by month’s end should reach the 70-degree mark. Catfish will start migrating into the mouth of the deeper sloughs early this month.” said Captain Brian Barton. a long-time Tennessee River lakes angler and guide.

Tops and just off the river ledges will be good spots to target. The mouths of Indian, Second, and Bear Creeks will hold plenty of catfish this month. Look for these fish in anywhere from 15 to 35 feet of water. On the upper end of Pickwick, near the dam look for concentrations of cats behind wing walls and rock piles that run

horizontally along the lake. The barge canal below the dam is an excellent place to fish late in the month. Last year during the last weekend of April, we took 47 cats on jugs in less than 5 hours. For those who like to jug fish, set jugs 8 to 12 feet deep and bait with shrimp, shad gut, or cut bait. The gravel bar at Pond Creek will load up with spawning channel catfish this month. To target these fish, anchor upstream and along the edge of the gravel bar.

LAKE EUFAULA

Veteran guide Captain Sam Williams predicted,” Bass will be found near brush piles on the river edges, and anglers will need to look for grass growing rapidly.”

Soft plastics rigged Carolina style and lipless crank baits will pull these bass in. Bass will be found in good groups near the mouths of creeks, and the hydrilla should be growing and creating thick mats of vegetation which will hold better bass. Anglers should look for the fresh green color, and if this new grass is near other structure such as blowdowns or old lily pad stems, it deserves some time and attention.

The catfish bite, and it will be getting very good in April when the whisker fish will be going to the spawning beds. Live bait or big chunks of cut bait will work either on rod and reel or jug fishing. Williams says,” They’ll be up in creeks- look for them in weeds and pads.” He tells us.” A little caution is in order when pulling on jug lines which seem to have big catfish on them.”

For some white bass and hybrid action, anglers can use lipless crank baits and spinner baits in silver or white colors near creek and river channels where the fish will either be heading upstream to spawn or downstream back to the main lake body after they’ve completed spawning.

April will also see bream of all kinds starting their annual move to shallow water for bedding. Try live bait fished on the bottom around shoreline cover for April bream action.

LAKE WEISS

Weiss is famous for its crappie fishing, and April is great month to get in on the crappie bite. Crappie will be shallow around brush piles, piers, and stump rows. Crappie will be spawning the whole month, so the fishing and catching will be hot if the fish can be located and the angler puts the right bait before them. Lots of two to two and half pound crappie will be located and caught in April.

‘Locating the new growth water vegetation is a matter of high priority for anglers looking for the best bass fishing. If you can find some fresh green- a mix of old and new grass- find the grass with the yellow-tipped flowers- the bass like that better,” advised Captain Lee Pitts who has fished and guided on Weiss for many years.

Spinner baits, jigs in 3/8 oz. weights or soft plastic lizards will all work well in the springtime grass. For the spinner baits, go with white or white/chartreuse colors, and just slow roll it across the bottom. Another good April technique is to let he spinner bait sink, and then slowly hop it back. When the spinner bait reaches the end of the grass, just let it “die” and sink. Often the bass will take it as it falls toward the bottom.

Jig colors which work well on Weiss bass are black and blue, and green pumpkin colors. The Zoom Super-Chunk is a very good addition to the jig.

Location is important in April. Pitts tells us,” The better fish will be way in the backs of pockets.”

Pitts said,” We like to throw a cork with a jig under it. A Southern Pro jig in 1/32 oz weight in dark colors such as black/chartreuse and gape and chartreuse are great on cloudy days. On brighter days we’ll go with black and red, blue/sour grape, and white/chartreuse colors.”

Fishing the cork and jig combination for big slabs is pretty easy if you don’t like to work too hard and too fast. Pitts advises crappie chasers.” Throw the jig with a three-foot leader. Ease it eight to ten inches and stop. Let it swing and try to shake it under the jig. Work this rig near cover.” Pitts reminds anglers,” Most all flats on Weiss have stumps, holes, something that’s holding the fish. Find the structure and you’ll find the fish. We’ll keep working these spots.

Mobile Delta

Tournament angler and long-time guide Captain Wayne Miller advises anglers going on the massive Mobile Delta, “In the Delta, pay attention to the water level. Keep a log book of some kind to note water levels and fishing results. Then you can come back on a later year and have a good idea of how to start. It’s critical to pay attention to the river stages. The Mobile radio station gives river stage information every week.”

Miller tells us that on most years, the Delta sees waves of spawning fish, so in April, there will still be some fish spawning and other fish post-spawn. A lot of bass will be up in shallow water in April, and they’ll stay there for quite a while after the spawn is done.

Miller says that spinnerbaits, crankbaits, swim jigs, chatterbaits all work well, but blade baits are the most common lure thrown in April.

Anglers are advised to match the size of the spinnerbait to the baitfish present- and this means the spinner may need to be quite small. If the water is still high and stained, a larger, noisier spinner may work better. A little hint- a spinnerbait with a red blade can work very well in April.

Miller said, “In April, it’s a matter of trial and error. You may need to change color and size of the lure to find what the bass want. Size can be very important.”

LAKE GUNTERSVILLE

Bass in Guntersville will often make a bed under the grass mats as protection and cover. This can help anglers locate bedding fish. Any green grass needs to be worked- lizards, worms, chunks, creature baits- all will work when they are dropped into or below the green grass. Try the soft plastics as trailers for jigs in 3/8 to ½ oz weights. Black/blue and peanut butter and jelly (purple with brownish steaks) are good colors for the bedding bass. Rattle-LTraps in red colors if murky water and Texas Shad patterns if clear will work well.

‘Fish the sloughs off the main river and the shallow flats off the main rivers. The Goose Pond Marina area and the Mud Creek areas are both very good for April bass,” predicts Captain Jake Davis, a veteran Guntersville guide and angler.

Crappie anglers looking for good slab action will find crappie on the beds on flats, and they will often be in the same general

area as the spawning bass. Captain Jake says,” I’ll find flats with crappie spawning, and the bass will be eating the crappie.” It’s totally possible for anglers to fish the crappie for a good mess of fine-eating slabs, and then fish big silver crank baits or spinner baits on the edges of the crappie beds to catch some big bass which have been dining on the crappie, too. To catch the crappie, try live minnows or small plastic-body jigs work very slowly across the bedding areas.

Bream anglers should start to find bluegills and redears moving into shallower water, and don’t be surprised if bream start to show up while anglers are working crappie beds. Bream will take small crappie jigs, but crickets and red worms fished on light tackle will work best.

SIPSEY FORK

Randy Jackson of Riverside Fly Shop on the Sipsey Fork tells us that April should begin some of the best fly fishing of the entire year.

He said, “April is in the best hatching months of the year, and in April we have a good caddis fly hatch usually, but it’s all dependent on the weather. Anglers need to watch the weather and look for days that are not too humid and are calm and cloudy- these are the best dry fly fishing days.”

Last year, the Sipsey Fork had some great fly hatches all summer from April to August.

When the bugs are not hatching off, anglers can use subsurface nymphs like the classic Hare’s Ear in sizes 14 to 16 for good results.

For those anglers who have not mastered a fly rod yet, lots of Sipsey Fork rainbows can be caught on ultra-light spinning gear. Jackson says,” Use a tiny swivel with a light leader and a fly. Put a tiny lead above the swivel and a float above that. The fly moves through the water naturally.” Four-pound test line on the ultra-light rig is needed, and fluorocarbon line works best.

Skipjacks may very well be up the river near the dam in April, and they are a blast on light tackle. Anything tiny, shiny lure or fly will work for the jumping skipjacks.

Anglers can expect to find nine-inch rainbows quite often, and there are some fine twenty-inch hold over rainbow trout downstream.

FLORIDA WATERS

WAKULLA/ WACISSA RIVERS

Both the Wakulla and the Wacissa hold good populations of feisty Suwanee bass, the Florida equivalent of smallmouth bass, and these little battlers are a lot of fun to catch.

Bass anglers will want to throw frogs and speed worms for the big bass, and early and late in the day Zara Spooks are very good for the topwater bite.

Long time area angler Bill Goodroe of Wilderness Way in Shadeville, Florida advised anglers that both of these lovely spring-fed rivers will be very good for post spawn bass fishing in April. He said, “The bass are off the beds now, but they will be feeding.”

For anglers who go after truly big bass, the Wacissa River down toward Goose Pasture is home to some very big- ten pound plusbass. Last year, a fifteen-pound bass was taken in April from the Wacissa.

Panfish will be on fire in April. Bream of all kinds will rise to dry flies, poppers, and foam body bugs. Live bait will always work. Goodroe said, “They’re all over the place in April.”

Anglers are reminded that Wilderness Way runs chartered guided fishing trips, and these trips are the best way to learn the better fishing spots on the rivers, and how to fish the spring-fed streams.

LAKE TALQUIN

“The bass will still be spawning in places, and the post-spawn pattern will be good. There will be shad spawning by then in the shallows. Jerk baits matched to the small size of the shad fished around shallows will be very good in early mornings. Any of the lake’s shallows can hold great bass in April,” said Jeff DuBree of Whippoorwill Lodge on Lake Talquin.

Bream will be very good in April here. Bluegill will be spawning heavily and anglers using crickets and worms can fill an ice chest. Also, Jeff DuBree recommends anglers try small Beetle Spins in black with gold spinners for great bream action.

Some big redears will be caught in April in deeper water- say 8-10 feet around sandy humps in the main lake.

Catfish will be quite good in April for anglers who use stinkbaits.

Important Contact Information

Joe Dunn

Dunn’s Sports 334-636-0850

33356 Hwy 43, Thomasville, AL

Captain Sam Williams Hawks Guide Service 334-687-0400

Brandon Jackson/ Randy Jackson Riverside Fly Shop 17027 Hwy 69N Jasper, AL 256-287-9582 Riversideflyshop.com

Captain Lee Pitts 256-390-4145

www.leepittsoutdoors.com

Captain Brian Barton 256-412-0960

brianbartonoutdoors.com

Regional Freshwater Fishing Outlook

Captain Jake Davis

Mid-South Bass Guide Service 615-613-2382

msbassguide@comcast.net

Jeff DuBree

Whipperwill Sportsman’s Lodge

Lake Talquin

850-875-2605

fishtalquin@gmail.com

Captain Wayne Miller

Mobile-Tensaw Delta Guide Service

251-455-7404

Millewa2000@yahoo.com

Bill Goodroe

Wilderness Way

850-877-7200

3152 Shadeville Road

Crawfordville, Fl 32327

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01:34 PM / 1.83

02:24 PM / 1.89

03:19 PM / 1.91

04:20 PM / 1.85

04:22 AM / -0.18

05:24 AM / -0.28

06:15 AM / -0.31

07:00 AM / -0.23

07:37 AM / -0.03

08:02 AM / 0.28

04:54 PM / 0.70

07:45 AM / 0.64

07:07 PM / 0.43

06:38 AM / 0.92

08:36 PM / 0.15

09:51 PM / -0.06

11:08 PM / -0.17

12:45 AM / -0.21

02:27 AM / -0.21

03:45 AM / -0.21

04:45 AM / -0.19

05:29 AM / -0.12

06:00 AM / -0.00

06:14 AM / 0.16

06:07 AM / 0.34

04:36 PM / 0.79

05:44 AM / 0.52

06:22 PM / 0.59

05:16 AM / 0.68

07:26 PM / 0.39

08:13 PM / 0.22

08:54 PM / 0.09

09:37 PM / 0.01

10:31 PM / -0.03

11:51 PM / -0.06

01:32 AM / -0.11

02:49 AM / -0.18

03:45 AM / -0.22

Fort Morgan

04:04

06:06

03:54 AM / -0.14

04:57 AM / -0.23

05:48 AM / -0.27

06:31 AM / -0.22

07:06 AM / -0.05

07:29 AM / 0.20

07:13 AM / 0.50

06:32 PM / 0.46

01:57

06:15 AM / 0.75

07:51 PM / 0.23

08:58 PM / 0.06

10:13 PM / -0.03

12:20 PM / 1.57

01:09 PM / 1.62

02:03 PM / 1.61

02:58 PM / 1.57

03:51

04:41

06:19

08:10 PM / 0.88

12:03 AM / -0.06

01:40 AM / -0.07

02:56 AM / -0.07

04:01 AM / -0.05

04:54 AM / -0.00

05:32 AM / 0.08

05:55 AM / 0.21

05:57 AM / 0.37

03:40 PM / 0.83

05:34 AM / 0.54

06:21 PM / 0.66

11:11 AM / 0.97

10:46 AM / 1.12

10:50 AM / 1.28

11:10 AM / 1.40

11:40 AM / 1.50

12:18 PM / 1.58

01:03 PM / 1.64

01:55 PM / 1.69

02:48 PM / 1.70

03:40 PM / 1.66

04:50 AM / 0.67

07:15 PM / 0.47

07:51 PM / 0.31

08:25 PM / 0.19

09:02 PM / 0.10

09:55 PM / 0.05

11:26 PM / 0.01

01:03 AM / -0.05

Mobile River

05:26 AM / -0.17

06:29 AM / -0.29

07:20 AM / -0.34

08:03 AM / -0.27

08:38 AM / -0.07

09:01 AM / 0.26

08:45 AM / 0.63

08:04 PM / 0.58

07:47 AM / 0.93

09:23 PM / 0.29

10:30 PM / 0.08

11:45 PM / -0.03

01:35 AM / -0.07

03:12 AM / -0.09

PM / 1.96 05:37 PM / 1.86

PM / 1.72 07:14 PM / 1.55

08:05 PM / 1.33

03:10 PM / 1.05

09:56 PM / 1.10

01:54 PM / 1.08

01:34 AM / 0.94

12:57 PM / 1.21

12:32 PM / 1.41

12:36 PM / 1.59

12:56 PM / 1.75

01:26 PM / 1.87

02:04 PM / 1.97

02:49 PM / 2.05

03:41 PM / 2.11

04:34 PM / 2.13

05:26 PM / 2.07

04:28 AM / -0.08

05:33 AM / -0.06

06:26 AM / -0.00

07:04 AM / 0.10

07:27 AM / 0.26

07:29 AM / 0.46

05:12 PM / 1.04

07:06 AM / 0.67

07:53 PM / 0.82

06:22 AM / 0.84

08:47 PM / 0.59

09:23 PM / 0.39

09:57 PM / 0.24

10:34 PM / 0.13

11:27 PM / 0.07

12:58 AM / 0.01

02:35 AM / -0.06

03:44 AM / -0.14

04:42 AM / -0.18

02:33

03:38 PM /

04:40 PM /

08:19 PM /

09:18 PM / 0.82

10:12 AM /

10:20 PM /

10:30 AM / 0.57

02:21 AM / -0.14

03:33 AM / -0.17

04:43 AM / -0.17

05:23 AM / -0.12

05:39 AM / 0.00

05:42 AM / 0.17

02:17 PM / 0.27

05:30 PM / 0.16

03:06 AM / 0.43

06:34 PM / -0.00

09:58 AM /

07:33 PM / -0.10

09:28 PM / -0.15

11:28 PM / -0.20

12:47 AM / -0.21

01:49 AM / -0.20

02:45 AM / -0.15

03:28 PM /

07:16 PM / 0.74

08:20 PM / 0.69

09:10 PM / 0.62

09:33 AM / 0.48

10:00 PM / 0.54

09:52 AM / 0.57 11:00 PM / 0.45

09:48 AM / 0.67

08:53 AM / 0.81

09:16 AM / 0.94

09:45 AM / 1.04

10:22 AM / 1.11 11:09 AM / 1.15

12:03 PM / 1.15

01:01 PM / 1.12

02:06 PM / 1.05

03:45 AM / -0.09

04:44 AM / -0.02

05:28 AM / 0.07

06:00 AM / 0.19

06:10 AM / 0.32

05:23 PM / 0.33

02:03 AM / 0.42

05:54 PM / 0.21

01:02 AM / 0.42

06:18 PM / 0.10

06:31 PM / 0.02

06:37 PM / -0.05

07:05 PM / -0.09

10:17 PM / -0.11

11:30 PM / -0.15

12:34 AM / -0.18

01:27 AM /

Pensacola Bay

05:26

06:05

06:35

03:13

03:47

04:35

05:04

01:46

09:03

02:55

03:57

10:09

12:49

02:03

Navarre Beach

12:53 AM / -0.35

01:53 AM / -0.38

02:47 AM / -0.35

03:33 AM / -0.23

04:04 AM / -0.03

03:36 AM / 0.23

01:40 PM / 0.43

03:10 AM / 0.45

03:16 PM / 0.23

02:57 AM / 0.59

04:42 PM / 0.01

06:12 PM / -0.18

08:45 PM / -0.33

10:24 PM / -0.43

11:36 PM / -0.46

12:40 AM / -0.43

01:39 AM / -0.34

02:31 AM / -0.21

03:10 AM / -0.05

03:18 AM / 0.13

AM / 0.60

08:00 PM / 0.88

09:41 AM / 0.69

09:51 PM / 0.76

08:35 AM / 0.83

11:27 PM / 0.67

08:05 AM / 1.01

08:17 AM / 1.18

08:38 AM / 1.32

09:05 AM / 1.44

09:39 AM / 1.55

10:20 AM / 1.63

11:08 AM / 1.69

12:03 PM / 1.72

01:04 PM / 1.68

02:43 AM / 0.31 12:38 PM / 0.58

02:28 AM / 0.45

02:14 PM / 0.47

02:19 AM / 0.56

03:25 PM / 0.33

01:59 AM / 0.63

04:26 PM / 0.18

PM / 0.04

06:16 PM / -0.09 07:19 PM /

03:18 AM / -0.45

04:06 AM / -0.46

04:47 AM / -0.38

05:21 AM / -0.19

05:38 AM / 0.09

02:07 PM / 0.43

05:25 AM / 0.40

04:47 PM / 0.24

04:36 AM / 0.65

06:22 PM / 0.02

07:58 PM / -0.17

09:35 PM / -0.30

11:01 PM / -0.37

12:19 AM / -0.38

01:32 AM / -0.34

02:36 AM / -0.27

03:28 AM / -0.17

04:05 AM / -0.04

04:23 AM / 0.12

03:56 AM / 0.29

02:06 PM / 0.63

03:34 AM / 0.44

03:59 PM / 0.49

03:13 AM / 0.56

05:12 PM / 0.32

06:14 PM / 0.17

07:14 PM / 0.04

08:16 PM / -0.07

09:20 PM / -0.16

10:23 PM / -0.23

11:26 PM / -0.29

12:28 AM /

01:37 PM / 1.71 02:31 PM / 1.65 02:18 AM / -0.37

01:26 AM /

/ -0.52

04:22 AM / -0.51

05:14 AM / -0.39

06:01 AM / -0.14

06:38 AM / 0.23

06:48 AM / 0.68

05:44 PM / 0.42

05:04 AM / 1.07

07:28 PM / 0.08

08:53 PM / -0.22

10:10 PM / -0.42

11:24 PM / -0.51

12:37 AM / -0.51

01:45 AM / -0.43

02:48 AM / -0.29

03:41 AM / -0.13

04:24 AM / 0.06

04:55 AM / 0.28

05:10 AM / 0.51

04:56 AM / 0.75

05:20 PM / 0.78

03:44 AM / 0.94

06:30 PM / 0.55

07:23 PM / 0.33

08:10 PM / 0.13

08:57 PM / -0.03

09:46 PM / -0.16

10:42 PM / -0.26

11:42 PM / -0.33

12:45 AM / -0.37

01:46 AM / -0.36

Pascagoula

03:14 PM / 1.80

04:17 PM / 1.76

05:47 PM / 1.66

07:16 PM / 1.50

09:47 PM / 1.30

01:01 PM / 0.68

11:46 PM / 1.12

11:04 AM / 0.82

02:40 AM / 1.02

09:52 AM / 1.17

10:17 AM / 1.50

10:52 AM / 1.74

11:35 AM / 1.87

12:29 PM / 1.90

01:27 PM / 1.86

02:20 PM / 1.77

03:08 PM / 1.65

03:59 PM / 1.48

05:11 PM / 1.31

06:45 PM / 1.15

10:10 PM / 1.04

10:43 AM / 0.73

11:32 PM / 0.95

08:25 AM / 0.92

08:56 AM / 1.15

09:27 AM / 1.36

09:59 AM / 1.53

10:32 AM / 1.67

11:11 AM / 1.78

12:01 PM / 1.84

01:03 PM / 1.88

02:01 PM / 1.87

02:51 PM / 1.78

01:08 AM / -0.19

02:55 AM / -0.22

04:14 AM / -0.22

05:04 AM / -0.14

05:43 AM / 0.06

06:09 AM / 0.36

04:09 PM / 0.60

05:38 AM / 0.69

05:32 PM / 0.32

05:14 AM / 0.94

06:48 PM / 0.06

08:08 PM / -0.14

09:24 PM / -0.25

10:50 PM / -0.28

12:03 AM / -0.25

01:05 AM / -0.18

02:25 AM / -0.07

04:36 AM / 0.01

05:21 AM / 0.12

05:45 AM / 0.27

05:42 AM / 0.46

05:35 AM / 0.66

03:40 PM / 0.56

04:17 AM / 0.81

04:51 PM / 0.37

05:43 PM / 0.18

06:32 PM / 0.02

07:23 PM / -0.11

08:16 PM / -0.20

09:15 PM / -0.26

10:30 PM / -0.28

11:53 PM / -0.30

12:55 AM / -0.26

07:39 PM / 1.34

09:27 PM / 1.25

11:03 PM / 1.15

09:37 AM / 0.68

12:48 AM / 1.04

09:54 AM / 0.91

02:31 AM / 0.99

10:19 AM / 1.14

10:45 AM / 1.37

11:17 AM / 1.56

12:01 PM / 1.72

12:59 PM / 1.84

01:57 PM / 1.90

02:49 PM / 1.89

03:44 PM / 1.78

05:01 PM / 1.60

06:37 PM / 1.38

09:54 PM / 1.16

11:31 AM / 0.75

06:14 AM / 0.15

06:27 AM / 0.27

06:37 AM / 0.43

05:50 AM / 0.60

04:52 PM / 0.48

05:43 AM / 0.75

05:53 PM / 0.31

05:49 AM / 0.90

06:53 PM / 0.13

07:55 PM /

11:38 PM / 0.99

10:33 AM / 0.92

09:28 AM / 1.23

09:55 AM / 1.49

10:27 AM / 1.67

11:03 AM / 1.77

11:45 AM / 1.80

12:39 PM / 1.77

01:36 PM / 1.72

02:27 PM / 1.64

03:14 PM / 1.53

04:06 PM / 1.39

05:28 PM / 1.22

07:05 PM / 1.05

01:05 AM / -0.32

02:31 AM / -0.29

03:55 AM / -0.21

04:48 AM / -0.06

05:23 AM / 0.18

05:39 AM / 0.48

04:06 PM / 0.60

04:44 AM / 0.76

KID'S CORNER TROPHY ROOM

1ST Deer

Clark ended the season with this old man

Crew Weaver, age 11, holds up a drake wood duck harvested off of the Alabama River

Abby with her first deer

Teagan Revette showing off a beautiful Whitetail harvest

Mason Lee, 6, with his first 8pt buck in Cullman County

James Jerkins, 14 years old.

Burnt Corn, Al

April Fishing Tip

BY THE EDITORS

Anglers fish for many reasons. Some seek relaxation from a busy life. Some cherish time with family. Some enjoy the challenge of “figuring out” the fish. And many anglers fish because they like fresh-fried fish with coleslaw and hushpuppies!

Alabama natives have access to some awesome fisheries, but not all of them are safe to keep fish from. On a recent episode of the Alabama Freshwater Fishing Report, we sat down with Will Strickland at Mobile Baykeeper to discuss how anglers can perform their due diligence and make informed decisions about the fish they feed themselves and their families.

“I grew up in Tuscaloosa,” says Will. And as a kid I fished the Black Warrior with my grandfather. He wouldn’t eat fish from the Black Warrior, because back then, at least in his mind, that river was particularly heavily polluted. He would just say, ‘We don’t need to be eating these fish with what’s going on upstream.’ And I just thought that’s how it was done. You made your best judgment call based on what was being put in the water nearby; how it looked and smelled. But actually, our state is doing this testing and reporting it back to us.”

Many popular bodies of water are under fish consumption advisories due to contaminants like mercury and PCBs, Will explains. “Almost every water body down here in coastal Alabama has some sort of advisory on it. Now, they vary. You’ve got water bodies like the Mobile River that have an advisory that says do not eat any fish due to mercury contamination. Then you have other areas like Mifflin Lake which has an advisory for largemouth bass that recommends limiting yourself to two meals a month. Again, that’s for mercury. And so there’s these different levels. But in general, especially here in coastal Alabama where

the whole state drains, there’s some sort of advisory just cautioning you to limit the amount you eat, or maybe advising that you don’t need to eat any fish at all.”

Anglers looking to research local fish consumption advisories have several options, Will advises. “All you have to do is visit the Alabama Department of Public Health’s website. You click ‘Who We Are,’ and you click ‘View All’ under the ‘About Us’ tab. You can either scroll down or you can click on the ‘T’s, and it takes you down to Ts on the menu, where you’ll be looking for ‘Toxicology.’ Scroll down some more, click on ‘Fish Consumption Advisories,’ and under the ‘Resources’ section there, you click on the ‘2023 Fish Consumption Advisory Guidelines.’ That’ll take you to a thirty-eight page PDF with all the advisories listed. From there, you’ve just got to find your water body and it will have information about advisories in that area.”

“Your other options are to go to ALSHORACT.com.” he continues. “Waterkeepers Alabama has a map on there, where you can scroll to your local body of water and click on the color-coded fish icons that tell you about local advisories. If you’re out on the water or don’t have internet service, your third option is to call 844-219-7475 and somebody will pick up and they’ll tell you what’s going on where you are. And if you don’t speak English, and you need it in Spanish, there’s a Spanish option on that hotline as well.”

For anglers looking to eat their catch, it’s important to be educated regarding fish consumption advisories. Staying up-to-date on local advisories is essential to protect yourself and your loved ones from toxins like mercury, PCBs, and other common contaminants found in Alabama’s waterways.

A Crappie Fishing Story

BY JIM MIZE

In my younger days, fishing for crappie rated high on my priorities, particularly in the spring. As table fare goes, crappie ranked first among fish in our household. Their size made them large enough to fillet and small enough to fry whole. Throw in some hushpuppies with baked beans and the thought alone makes me drool more than Pavlov’s dog. Or even my dog for that matter.

So, when the crappie began to bed in the spring, my Dad and I searched for them with all our spare time. We would hit the spots that paid off in the past, and when those didn’t pan out, we would look for new places where crappie might bed.

Keep in mind this was back when high tech was a flasher unit with red lines that bounced around a dial. Though this helped, we still had to ply the banks with small jigs or minnow s to check out our hunches. Often, we trolled these same jigs slowly to find a straggler or two. When that happened, we would do our best to find the bunch it had veered off from.

On one Saturday morning, we were trolling a long cove with a strong flow coming at the end. The influx of water was enough to create a slow current so we drifted on the upper end and then used the electric motor to cover ground when the current wouldn’t push us along.

About halfway up the cove where it widened, a small aluminum boat with two teenage boys was tied up in a bunch of cattails. The two sat stoically as if pondering life’s mysteries. We rarely saw them cast or reel and certainly never saw them land a fish.

On one occasion as we trolled past them, I caught a crappie and we wondered if the bed was close by. I kept eyeing those cattails and wondered if it marked some underwater structure that would attract crappie. So, I kept an eye on the boat.

Whenever we trolled past, the two brothers would sit stone-stil l and look as bored as possible. About all the motion we saw from them was a small wave as we trolled by as fishermen are wont to do.

But as we passed, I noticed one of their rods bobbing and mentioned it to Dad. He saw it too. It was subtle but too erratic to be anything other than a fish.

Our suspicion was that they were onto the crappie and didn’t want us to know. A crappie bed was a prized secret and they appeared willing to risk losing fish in order to keep this one for themselves.

After we trolled past them, we decided to turn around and troll back. Occasionally, one of us would pick up a crappie trolling down the creek bed and it reinforced our belief that the fish

were nearby, probably around that other boat.

Again, as we passed, the two boys tried to look bored and again we noticed rods bouncing. They ignored their rods and just watched us troll by.

It became a game and every time we went by them the same thing happened. We were trying to hide our laughter as the two fishermen tried to hide their success. The cat and mouse game became as much fun as the fishing.

Finally, on one pass, a rod in their boat bent double and the youngster in the back had to grab it to keep it from sailing ov er the side. We cut our motor and watched him fight what was obviously a large fish on light spinning gear.

His rod bent in a full curve, the tip going under water as the fish surged. The way he played the fish, it was clear he was being careful as neither the rod nor line was capable of horsing it in.

After several minutes, the fish came to the boat and they netted it. Using a hand scale, they called out that it was an eight-pound largemouth.

By then, we were all laughing at their subterfuge and they waved us over. We exchanged introductions and they confirmed that they were sitting on a large crappie bed and invited us to tie up and fish alongside them. So, we did.

That was the beginning of a long friendship. Both brothers were a few years older than I was. The oldest, Jimmy, was a senior in high school and looking for part-time work. Dad worked in a machine shop that needed help. Soon after, they found themselves working together and talking fishing most of the day.

From there, we turned into fishing buddies. We chased bass on nearby lakes, fished for trout, and every spring went back to check on that crappie bed. When Jimmy was drafted, he entered the Navy and was sent to Viet Nam. I mailed him fishing reports and he sent back Navy surplus items like the can openers that came on their packaged meals.

Upon his return, we picked up where we left off. Jimmy and Dad continued to fish together after I left for college and the n they had to send me fishing reports.

Looking back, it’s remarkable how people can bond over something like a small fish. On that Saturday morning years ago, we caught more than a mess of fish; we also picked up a couple of fishing buddies.

And we also found their crappie bed, something we could all laugh about for years.

JIM MIZE still remembers exactly where that crappie bed was You can purchase Jim’s new award-winning book, The Jon Boat Years, at https://uscpress .com/The-Jon-Boat-Years or buy autographed copies at www . acreektricklesthroughit .com