Hideaway Report May 2024

ANDREW HARPER’S

SINCE 1979

TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

PACIFIC ISLES Unwinding on

At last: After too long an absence, we made it back to Australia. The main goal of our return was to evaluate the new incarnation of Southern Ocean Lodge, one of the continent’s star resorts. We connected our stay there with hideaways in Tasmania to make a compelling and unique southern Australian itinerary. On a completely different island

in the Pacific, a splashy new opening in Hawaii encouraged us to compare and contrast luxury beach hotels on the Kohala Coast — a pleasure of a duty indeed! In our Cruise News column, we delve into culinary collaborations at sea. And finally, we have another Member Spotlight column. We love these interviews that are about your travels.

Southern Ocean Lodge, Kangaroo Island, Australia

AUSTRALIAN PHOENIX

Surrounded by a national park on the southwest corner of Kangaroo Island, just a 45-minute ferry ride or short flight from the mainland, this eco-friendly clifftop resort was known for all-inclusive luxury amid remote coastal wilderness for a dozen years. It was a favorite of Andrew Harper members and staff alike — reason alone to make a trip to Australia. And so we felt particular dismay when we learned, in 2020, that bush fires had leveled it. Now it has been rebuilt on its original footprint, and I made reservations to stay at the 25-suite resort as soon as possible after its reopening. When we arrived, the gracious and inviting staff treated us like favored houseguests. My companion and I checked in at happy Southern Ocean Lodge, a former Hideaway of the Year, rises from the ashes

hour and, with welcome drinks in hand, we were swept toward armchairs overlooking the Southern Ocean. They needn’t have poured for us; the great room, centered on a free-standing fireplace, features a generous bar where guests can fix their own drinks and select bottles from the lodge’s extensive South Australian cellar.

They get help from wine-savvy John Hird. He and his partner, Alison Heath, manage the lodge and foster a convivial atmosphere. Guests often invite one another to meals in the dining room, where chef Tom Saliba helps keep things light, spinning local seafood and foraged plants into inventive, vegetable-rich dishes. I especially relished the curried marron (a large, local crayfish), with wakame and ice plant from the beach, and gnocchi flavored with saltbush and served with clams and spinachlike warrigal greens.

We enjoyed plenty of solitude, too. Having walked along the cliff trail that meandered thrillingly close to the edge, we made our way to the beach, finding tide

From left: Baillie Pavilion with plunge pool, bath in a Remarkable Suite and the spa relaxation room, Southern Ocean Lodge, Kangaroo Island

“REPOSITIONED SUITES NOW FACE THE SURF, AND A NEW SPA OFFERS PLUNGE POOLS AND A SAUNA.

the glass wall before lowering the blinds and drifting off to sleep.

Bedside tech controls are among the rebuild’s upgrades. In addition, repositioned suites now face the surf rather than the more monotonous deep ocean, and a new spa offers plunge pools and a sauna with a window onto the recovering scrub forest, which is dotted with thousands of new plantings. I indulged in a hot-stone massage on an exceedingly comfortable massage table, its well-cushioned face cradle built right into its surface.

pools filled with crustaceans and anemones. I appreciated the marine debris drop-off point where eco-minded guests can put beach litter. Inside, reading material related to the region was placed around the lobby and in the gym. We brought books to our room — a 657-square-foot Flinders Suite with floor-to-ceiling windows, a walk-in closet and a well-curated minibar — and found plenty of places to read: on the semicircular couch before our gas fireplace, in the soaking tub in the limestone-clad bath, on the sea-view terrace and in bed. From there, we tried to identify constellations glimmering beyond

Impressive though the on-site amenities may be, it seemed a shame not to make an excursion or two. And indeed, they made leaving the resort worthwhile. On our guided nighttime walk, we spotted a koala bear with a baby on her back, and during our visit of a breezy beach, endangered Australian sea lions were breeding. Most memorable was our exploration of Flinders Chase National Park. Its wind- and wave-carved boulders resemble Henry Moore sculptures. They’re known as the Remarkable Rocks, and in fact, “remarkable” is exactly the word I’d use to describe our entire stay. H

SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE RATING 96

LIKE

The unbeatable location; the knowledgeable expedition guides; the open bar and wine cellar.

DISLIKE

The long uphill walk from the lower-numbered suites to the lobby, lounge and dining room.

GOOD TO KNOW

Larger parties can book the four-bedroom, standalone Baillie Pavilion, also configurable as two suites.

ROOM TO BOOK

The Flinders Suites are fantastic, but the 1,680-square-foot Osprey Suite, with its terrace and infinity plunge pool, ranks among Australia’s most glamorous one-bedroom accommodations.

$$$$; Kangaroo Island

Flinders Chase National Park

HIDEAWAYS UNDER DOWN UNDER

Tasmania dazzles with dramatic scenery, unique wildlife and superb cuisine

INDONESIA

An island about the size of West Virginia, located 150 miles south of mainland Australia, Tasmania is a world unto itself. My traveling companion and I deplaned in Launceston. The second-largest town in “Tassie” is a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, the gateway to the farms and vineyards of the northeast’s Tamar Valley. Launceston sits between two top national parks: Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair, in a temperate rainforest to the west, and Freycinet, on the east coast. In Hobart, the island’s walkable capital city two and a half hours to the south, restaurants and museums line the historic port and Victorian streets. It is also convenient to the wineries of the Derwent, Coal River and Huon valleys.

STILLWATER SEVEN ROOMS

In a former flour mill on the Tamar River, Launceston’s finest restaurant, Stillwater,

GUINEA

anchors this inn of seven rooms. I had filled out a questionnaire before our stay, so hotelier and co-owner Chris McNally knew the music to program for our room, the wine to stow in our fridge and the welcome drinks to mix for us (gin and tonics with a Tasmanian gin).

With its original wooden beams, midcentury-style furnishings and forest-green bath with an open shower, our 387-squarefoot Premium Suite had a sexy, denlike feel, further enhanced by a locally crafted armoire that contained an exceptional minibar. I sank into an armchair and, aided by the bird book on the café table, identified little black cormorants gliding by on the Tamar River just beyond the small parking lot.

BARRIER REEF

The staff stocks the minibar with simple breakfast provisions, too, but we wanted something hot. Promptly delivered to our room the next morning, the terrific eggs Benedict, made with locally cured ham and garden herbs, were accompanied by delectably flaky croissants from star bakery Bread + Butter nearby.

SOUTHEAST AUSTRALIA

Eastern gray kangaroo near Launceston

TASMAN

CORA

INDIAN OCEAN

Launceston is a compact city, and Stillwater Seven is conveniently located for both quick strolls downtown and hikes into the wilderness starting right outside its door. But unless you purchase a package experience, the inn itself offers few activities besides dining at the on-site restaurant run by chef and co-owner Craig Will. That was fine by me. After a walk, we lunched on garlicbutter-baked Tasmanian scallops, and lemonmascarpone risotto topped by massive, head-on prawns. The server suggested an excellent 2018 Reserve Riesling from 40-year-old vines at Bream Creek, a winery on Tasmania’s east coast. Heaven.

Following afternoon visits to wineries closer to Launceston, in Pipers River and the Tamar Valley, we returned to Stillwater for dinner. Using impeccable Tasmanian ingredients, chef Will turned out several marvelous plates. I devoured the torched kingfish sashimi with verjus ponzu. Glazed in dark, sweet miso and strewn with furikake, a caramelly crescent of roasted pumpkin was the meal’s surprising showstopper.

After such a wonderful day of eating, I was excited for the next morning’s hot meal. But Stillwater Seven is geared for self-sufficient travelers. Few employees are on hand at the inn to fix gaffes, and no one had bothered

to provide our room with a menu for our breakfast selection. Without it, as cozy as our suite was, we felt rather prematurely ejected.

SAFFIRE FREYCINET

The Freycinet Peninsula hangs off Tasmania’s eastern coast, sheltering Coles Bay from the Tasman Sea. Here we checked into the island’s best hotel, Saffire Freycinet. We’ve recommended it for years, but I couldn’t resist a revisit. The all-inclusive property’s 20 suites meander across scrub forest fronting the beach. Our 1,506-square-foot Private Pavilion had ample space for a dining room overlooking a separate sunken living room, plus a kitchen tucked behind a wall with a built-in desk. It was done up in cream tones and wood, with splashes of orange and blue. Floor-to-ceiling windows and a small patio afforded a wide view of the pink-hued Hazards mountains across the bay. A path around the side of our suite led to the beach, where we discovered a rare gray goshawk in a tree. I only wish there had been a way to get from our bath out to the small plunge pool area on the other side of the glass wall. To access that lukewarm pool, we had to exit the front into a small, walled compound. If we had forgotten a room key, we’d have been locked out of our suite.

NEWLY RECOMMENDED STILLWATER SEVEN ROOMS RATING 92

LIKE

The exceptionally well-stocked minibar in our stylish room; the excellent restaurant; the river views.

DISLIKE

The lack of consistent on-site service.

GOOD TO KNOW

The scenic Cataract Gorge is right across the street, with a cable car and trails winding down to a beach on the Tamar River.

ROOM TO BOOK

A Premium Suite, for its ample size and luxurious soaking tub.

$$; Launceston

Chef Craig Will and Premium Suite Two, Stillwater Seven Rooms, Launceston

SAFFIRE FREYCINET RATING 95

LIKE The spectacular restaurant; the inspired experiences; the well-appointed accommodations.

DISLIKE

Other guests might walk past your suite en route to the beach, encroaching on your privacy; my rather haphazard massage in the tiny spa.

GOOD TO KNOW

You can “adopt” a Tasmanian devil here to help with the species’ conservation.

ROOM TO BOOK

A Private Pavilion, for its spacious layout that includes a full kitchen.

$$$$; Coles Bay

I certainly can’t quibble with the design of Saffire’s main pavilion. The open-plan building boasts spectacular views, soaring ceilings and comfortable seating for settling in with one of the many Australia-themed books in the lobby. At Palate, the terrific restaurant one level below, chef Paddy Prenter makes ample use of Tasmanian seafood and artisan meats, as well as produce pulled from the garden beside the dramatic lobby entrance. We enjoyed dishes like soft-scrambled eggs with spinner crab on toast at breakfast and smoked fish rillettes with wasabi cream followed by whole roast quail with a savory peach stuffing at dinner. Servers poured Tassie wines to match, and we sipped excellent cocktails mixed with island whiskey or gin in the lounge adjacent to the restaurant. Managers and staff were approachable and enthusiastic, tailoring a slew of adventures to our tastes. We spent time with Nicole Dyble and the Tasmanian devils she cares for in a large forested enclosure on the property. We donned bee suits for a visit with apiarist Rob Barker and the insects that produce his Wild Hives honey. And we pulled on waders for a tour of Freycinet Marine Farm, where our guides shucked Pacific oysters on a table set in the water. The mollusks were so delicious that I had to stop immediately afterward at

the farm’s seafood shack for a bowl of their mussels. They were among the sweetest I’ve ever eaten.

THE HENRY JONES ART HOTEL

The 56-room Henry Jones Art Hotel occupies the old jam factory of its namesake, an entrepreneur whose wares so perfumed the city that sailors could smell the town before they docked. I learned this and other facts about colonial Hobart from a guide at the 114-room MACq-01, a sister hotel located a few steps away, set partially on pilings in the harbor. We tested out both properties, but only the former made the cut.

The main lodge and suites overlooking Coles Bay, Saffire Freycinet

Shucking oysters at Freycinet Marine Farm

The Henry Jones’ theme is art. More than 400 contemporary works line the courtyard, lobby, halls and a gallery space. More galleries, including one packed with ravishing Aboriginal pieces, are tucked into its storefront. Guests can take tours of the art and attend artist talks. MACq-01’s emphasis is storytelling. The walking tour MACq-01 arranged was fascinating. Yet, despite its focus on history, MACq-01 has an all-too-corporate feel. The balcony of our Superior Waterfront Room was bare, and furnishings inside lacked personality.

Our Mountain View Oriental Suite at The Henry Jones was much more unique, located in a sort of garret up a staircase off the second, and highest, floor. Its ceiling was low, but at 517 square feet, it was spacious enough to accommodate an in-room Kohler jetted tub. The bones of the original jam works were everywhere apparent, particularly on our room’s terrace, surrounded by factory walls in something of an air shaft (views from the many windows were more appealing). Lined in Lucite, with a large double shower separated from the main room by frosted-glass walls, the bath was reminiscent of one at a Scandinavian boutique hotel.

The Henry Jones also has the superior dining room, Landscape Restaurant & Grill,

a steakhouse where the doting staff ferries grilled wagyu to tables set beneath colonial-era paintings by John Glover. But given the duo’s central location in Hobart, there’s really no need to have dinner at either hotel. The harbor and nearby streets are lined with inviting wine bars and restaurants.

Charming Hobart deserves a charming hotel, and I’m pleased to say that, a few quirks aside, The Henry Jones fits the bill. When combined with Saffire Freycinet and Stillwater Seven Rooms, it becomes part of an utterly beguiling Tasmanian itinerary. H

 To read about our disappointing stay at Cradle Mountain Lodge, view the full version of this story on AndrewHarper.com.

NEWLY RECOMMENDED

THE HENRY JONES ART HOTEL RATING 91

LIKE

The scenic and central location near the harbor; the well-preserved architectural details; the impressive array of artwork; the unique tours.

DISLIKE

The mediocre inroom dining; our accommodation’s sealed windows and incongruous plug-in fireplace.

GOOD TO KNOW

The staff here can also arrange for the fascinating tours available at MACq-01.

ROOM TO BOOK

A Harbour View Oriental Suite, for its spacious layout, jetted tub and memorable vistas.

$$; Hobart

Signature Suite, Saffire Freycinet

IXL Long Bar, The Henry Jones Art Hotel, Hobart

TOP TABLES IN HOBART

We had several great meals within walking distance of the upscale hotels in and around Hobart’s harbor. Much of Tasmania is agricultural, and the best restaurants combine farm-to-table — and sea-to-table — freshness with innovative cooking. Menus list local purveyors and change seasonally, if not weekly. Since reservations tend to be a must throughout Australia, I always booked ahead. When Tasmania’s stellar wines were on the menu, we made sure to match them with our dishes.

FICO

Fico, by chefs Federica Andrisani and Oskar Rossi, is an ideal place to pair Tasmanian wine and superb Italian cuisine. With expert service and an open kitchen complemented by a glowing, unhurried atmosphere, Fico offers a relaxing, prix fixe evening abetted by an award-winning wine list. With notes of both mushrooms and ripe peaches, a 2018 Grey Sands Pinot Gris was a fine match for sublime first courses like a creamy yet bracing gazpacho made

from almonds and fresh horseradish. Local seafood showed up in dishes like scallop gnocchetti in beurre blanc spiked with crayfish oil, and urchin risotto tinged with tomato and smoked paprika. The meat course was an Alpine classic: venison, grilled pink and strewn with peppercorns in a sweet-tart red-currant bordelaise sauce — a reminder of Tasmania’s cool climate. CLOSED SUNDAY EVENING AND MONDAY TO WEDNESDAY. 151 MACQUARIE STREET.

INSTITUT POLAIRE

Named for the French polar research agency, Institut Polaire pays tribute to the island’s proximity to Antarctica. The restaurant is white on white, with marble surfaces and light fixtures mimicking ice. The service, however, is as warm as can be, under the leadership of co-owner Louise Radman. Her husband, Nav Singh, is a winemaker and distiller. I sipped his creations, starting with a locavore martini made with Süd Polaire Antarctic Dry Gin, distilled with Southern Ocean kombu and mountain-pepper berries. It was perfect alongside snacks like waygu tartare with wasabi mayo and whipped bottarga on thick toast. I greatly enjoyed light, bright dishes like scallop sashimi with lemoninfused verjus and a blanched heirloom tomato topped with tangy goat cheese

gelato. But my favorite was the seared New Zealand snapper, its crackly skin draped in a sauce vierge redolent of tomato and basil. Singh’s Burgundystyle Pinot Noir married well with the meaty fish. CLOSED MONDAY TO WEDNESDAY. 1/7 MURRAY STREET.

LUCINDA WINE BAR

Lucinda Wine Bar has not a single Tasmanian bottling. Chef Kobi Ruzicka, who is co-owner of both Lucinda and Dier Makr, the molecular restaurant upstairs, isn’t a fan. His list is full of mainland rarities and European natural wines. Both refreshing and umami-laden, the wines I sampled were a match for dishes like whipped anchovies topped with a gorgeous array of garden vegetables and a pretty plate of farfalle with fresh peas, basil and creamy ricotta. In winebar fashion, a chalkboard bore the menu, and stools at communal tables provided seating. A homey kitchen took up one end of the room. Bottles cluttered countertops, and groups of young oenophiles made merry around them. With Ruzicka pouring us and everyone else samples to taste, I felt like I was at a very cool soirée. CLOSED SUNDAY TO TUESDAY. 123 COLLINS STREET.

Spaghetti with crayfish bisque and sorrel oil, Institut Polaire

Wall art, FICO

THE BIG ISLAND’S BEST RESORTS

We set a hot Hawaiian newcomer against three Kohala classics

Undulating along the western edge of Hawaii’s Big Island, the Kohala Coast boasts lavish resorts, dramatic lava formations and alluring stretches of sand. As we gazed down from the plane at the impossibly blue waters, punctuated by a lone sailboat, I was brimming with anticipation. I couldn’t wait to start snorkeling, hiking, dining on fresh seafood and, not least, lounging on the beach, mai tai in hand. On this trip, my traveling companion and I anonymously reviewed four resorts, all within a short drive of one another, two new to the Hideaway Report and two overdue for revisits. The head-to-head comparisons proved most illuminating.

KONA VILLAGE

Opened to much fanfare in July 2023, this beachfront hotel had big shoes to fill. The original Kona Village Resort, built in the 1960s on the grounds of a former fishing village, was beloved for its homey atmosphere, where repeat guests like Steve Jobs could unwind without the distractions of Wi-Fi and television. Destroyed in 2011 by a tsunami, the

property sat dormant for nearly a decade before Rosewood stepped in.

When planning the rebuild and redesign, the company worked in partnership with a cultural committee composed of community members, former employees and descendants of the original villagers. Today, solar energy powers the 150-room resort, and newly planted palms and other native flora fill the grounds. As we wandered the property’s winding crushed-coral roads, we came across canary-yellow hibiscus as large as dinner plates, bright orchids and cheery plumeria.

Kona Village is one of the only resorts on the Kohala Coast that boasts stand-alone rooms called hales (houses), and we loved having our own secluded space. Perched on stilts over lava cliffs, our Ocean View Hale had soaring ceilings, modernist

Hales at Kona Village, a new Rosewood resort

“

KONA VILLAGE IS A SPLURGE, BUT IT GIVES HOTELS NEARBY A REAL RUN FOR THEIR MONEY.

tropical furniture and decorative elements inspired by traditional Hawaiian fishing and canoeing implements. The interior design radiated elegance and sophistication. What a delight it was to wake up and sip local coffee on our outsized lanai, spotting an occasional whale in the expanse of blue before us.

On our first morning, I opted for a treatment at the spa, creatively built into a black lava flow facing the Hualālai volcano. The views from the outdoor relaxation lounge were mesmerizing. Over the next few days, we took advantage of the tennis courts and multiple pools and hot tubs, and we participated in a few of the rotating activities, including hula classes, snorkeling outings and tours of the on-site petroglyph fields. Inevitably, we would land at the Shipwreck Bar — constructed from an actual sunken and salvaged sailboat — for sundowners. It was a lively spot to swap stories with other guests over fresh coconuts spiked with rum.

Really, the only problem here, according to both the legacy guests we chatted with

and our accountant, is the sticker shock. The restaurants are especially expensive. Breakfast for two added up to over $200, and when I asked for extra papaya one morning, they added a surcharge. Still, I checked out with real regret. The friendly staff is always one step ahead of guests, and this property has an undeniable positive energy. Rosewood’s new Kona Village is a splurge, but it gives hotels nearby a real run for their money.

FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI

Although it’s just a five-minute drive from the Rosewood’s Kona Village, the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai presents quite the contrast. This 249-room hotel and residential community set on 865 acres offers seemingly endless amenities. On arrival, greeters ushered us into the grand post-and-beam lobby and offered fresh tropical juice and cool towelettes. I appreciated both the warm welcome and the upgrade from an OceanView Deluxe to an Oceanfront Room.

NEWLY RECOMMENDED KONA VILLAGE, A ROSEWOOD RESORT RATING 96 LIKE

The stand-alone accommodations; the resort’s sustainability efforts; the lush landscaping throughout.

DISLIKE

The high prices; the penny-pinching for fruits and tropical juices at breakfast.

GOOD TO KNOW

The hotel’s logo is inspired by the traditional Hawaiian sail, symbolizing the safe departure and return of early navigators.

ROOM TO BOOK

Hale #9 is closest to the water; Ocean View Hales over the lava cliffs are superior for spotting whales from December to May.

BENEFITS

A $150 resort credit; daily breakfast for two; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.

$$$$; Kailua-Kona

From left: Shipwreck Bar and Beach Front Black Sand Kauhale, Kona Village

Accommodations are divided into neighborhoods arranged around swimming pools and hot tubs. All are appointed with woven rattan chaises, generously stocked wet bars and teak accents. Beautifully designed outdoor lava-rock garden showers extend from the main baths of ground-floor rooms, but they offer less privacy. People strolling the beach boardwalk had a clear view into our lodging in the King’s Pond section, and some even waved to us when we were on our lanai.

Children rule the roost at the Four Seasons, except at the Palm Grove neighborhood on

the far east side of the resort, where the pool is adults-only. This more tranquil area is situated beside the Residents’ Beach House restaurant, which is especially romantic in the evenings, when tea lights and candles illuminate its seaside patio. The hotel’s main dining venue, ‘Ulu Ocean Grill, specializes in top-notch sushi, and its breakfast buffet offers everything from dim sum, mezzes and miso soup to coconut pancakes and classic scrambled eggs.

While this property lacks the exclusivity and calm of the Rosewood, it compensates by offering myriad diversions designed to keep the whole family occupied day and night. In addition to a 15,000-square-foot indoor-outdoor gym, there is a tennis center, a spa and a cultural center offering ukulele lessons, Hawaiian language sessions and quilting classes. A Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course culminates in a dramatic finish overlooking the ocean. Children love King’s Pond, a 1.8-million-gallon saltwater pool stocked with tropical fish.

The Four Seasons is a self-contained community, and — though residents did not always seem thrilled to share facilities with hotel guests, and the service sometimes had a certain artificiality — it is an ideal destination for families, where children can fill their days with activities and adults can relax.

FAIRMONT ORCHID

We stopped next in the Mauna Lani Resort area, which encompasses residential communities,

FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI RATING 91

LIKE

The state-of-the-art fitness center; the warmhearted staff; the passionate cultural practitioner; the many activities for children and families.

DISLIKE

The poolside sunglasscleaning and waterspritzing services felt rather silly.

GOOD TO KNOW

The hotel’s new 46foot catamaran hosts deep-sea fishing and snorkeling outings.

Chef Tyler Florence’s steakhouse, Miller & Lux Hualalai, opened a few days after we checked out.

ROOM TO BOOK

A Superior Suite – Prime Ocean View in the exclusive Palm Grove neighborhood, for its added privacy and quiet.

BENEFITS

A $100 hotel credit for guest rooms and $200 for suites and villas; daily breakfast for two; and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.

$$$$; Kailua-Kona

Beach Tree, one of seven pools at the resort, and private charter boat, Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Kailua-Kona

“FOR THOSE WILLING TO SACRIFICE THE INTIMACY OF A SMALLER RESORT, THE FAIRMONT IS AN OASIS.

three golf courses, the Kalāhuipua'a Historical Park and two hotels: Fairmont Orchid and Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection. After reviewing the latter in 2021, we had concerns about the bland décor, overcrowded pools and unappealing beach. This time, we decided to give the Fairmont Orchid a shot. Very large at 540 rooms, the Fairmont surprised us. The service was consistently warm and gracious, the amenities appeared new, and the meals were unfailingly delightful.

Orchid Court served the most impressive breakfast buffet of our trip, with a smoked-salmon bar, made-to-order omelet station, pan-Asian specialties and addictive macadamia-nut sticky buns. We had dinner on the palm-shaded patio of Brown’s Beach House, where, to the tune of Hawaiian music from a musician’s ukelele, I dug into the Fishermen’s Pot, a lemongrass-and-coconutcream stew stocked with a generous amount of lobster tail, kanpachi and clams.

In our luxurious Oceanfront Suite, we enjoyed the modern furnishings, contemporary Hawaiian accents and orchid arrangements. Its two patios proved to be perfect places to read when we needed respite from the sun. Despite its ground-floor location, our room felt private, tucked behind tropical foliage. On only one morning, when a yoga class was relocated to the lawn fronting our lanai because of wind conditions on the beach, did we feel any sense of intrusion.

The Fairmont offers an abundance of amenities, including tennis courts, a golf course and a grand pool that wends its way around a lava-rock island. In general, the symmetrical, precise landscaping here is more formal than at other properties on the

Kohala Coast. While this layout helped us navigate the expansive property, we missed the wild profusion of colorful plants that made the Rosewood’s grounds so striking. What makes the Fairmont distinctive is its man-made lagoon, sheltered from the surf. Though this aquamarine cove is small, the beach is soft and sandy, the water is placid, and green sea turtles are abundant. One morning, I snorkeled alongside one and later passed two others basking in the sun on a rocky shore near the spa.

The hotel’s Spa Without Walls offers treatments in oceanfront massage hales and huts set above a waterfall. Though the soundtrack of birds and rushing water seemed more noisy than peaceful, there was something enchanting about the experience.

For those willing to sacrifice the intimacy of a smaller resort in exchange for a swimmable bay, a powdery beach, on-property hiking trails and myriad land- and waterbased activities, the Fairmont is an oasis that will please families and honeymooners alike.

MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL

The Kohala Coast has few swimmable beaches because of the lava-rock formations

NEWLY RECOMMENDED

FAIRMONT ORCHID, HAWAII RATING 92

LIKE

The attentive and personalized service despite the large size of the property; the calm lagoon that’s ideal for snorkeling.

DISLIKE

The tiny lava-rock hot tub overrun with children; the tennis courts’ cracks.

GOOD TO KNOW

Reserve a complimentary photo session on arrival, as they book up quickly.

ROOM TO BOOK

Ground-floor Oceanfront Suites closest to the lagoon are especially spacious. Fairmont Gold lodgings have a private lounge but offer lessimpressive ocean views.

BENEFITS

A $100 dining credit; daily breakfast for two; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.

$$$$; Kohala Coast

Sunrise canoe experience in Pauoa Bay, Fairmont Orchid

that mark the shoreline. While the Four Seasons created a narrow inlet suitable for bathing, and the Fairmont fashioned its own lagoon, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel boasts one of the finest natural white-sand beaches on the island. There is no rough rock to avoid, and snorkeling with tropical fish among the coral reefs at its south end is heavenly.

Opened in 1965 by Laurance S. Rockefeller, this property wows, with its sunken garden lined with koi ponds and its openair lobby framed by towering columns that direct one’s gaze toward the sea. Dressed in a brightly colored muumuu, a greeter hugged the family ahead of us. The children knew her by name. Like the original Kona Village Resort, this hotel draws multigenerational guests who return year after year. There is a classic appeal to the 252-room hotel’s mid -

century-modern architecture, embellished with world-class art. Vintage surfboards, retro prints and the resident parrot add to the sense of old-school Hawaiian charm. Our airy Ocean Front Deluxe room had the perk of two lanais. At sunset, we each claimed a balcony to relish the beauty of the fading light over the horizon. We spent active days in the sun, either on a tennis court at the seaside facility, on the Robert Trent Jones Sr.-designed golf course or at the beachside Hau Tree bar. We found the food at the hotel’s signature ocean-view Manta restaurant to be fresh if not especially noteworthy. Considerably more memorable was our after-dinner stroll down to the manta ray observation deck. Floodlights over the water attract plankton, a favorite food of these graceful giants, which come to feed in balletic fashion.

Note that Mauna Kea has begun a $180 million renovation that’s scheduled to last until mid-2025. The original building will be refurbished first, followed by the Beachfront Wing. Plans include adding a cultural center, infinity pool and chef’s garden, as well as refreshing the gym, spa and golf course. With the opening of new resorts nearby, it is only natural that the Mauna Kea wants to elevate its offerings. I have faith that this property will make the transition thoughtfully, but only time will tell. Time, and another incognito visit. H

MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION RATING 94

LIKE

The sandy, swimmable beach; the old-school Hawaiian décor; the nighttime manta ray snorkeling excursion; the posh boutiques lining the sunken garden.

DISLIKE

Our car was returned covered in bird droppings; the hula teacher discouraged us from taking the class because he was disinterested in teaching only two guests.

GOOD TO KNOW

The hotel is undergoing major renovations until mid-2025.

ROOM TO BOOK

Tower rooms have superior ocean views, but Beachfront Wing rooms are quieter.

BENEFITS

A $100 resort credit for guest rooms and $200 for suites; daily breakfast for two; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.

$$$; Kohala Coast

Hula kāne dancers and Oceanfront View room terrace, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

CULINARY VOYAGES

Luxury cruise lines continue to spice things up by partnering with Michelin-starred chefs and cooking-show champions

Mediterranean Fare Rocks the Boat on Seabourn Ships Seabourn has introduced a new Mediterranean-inspired fine-dining concept called Solis. The inclusive, dinner-only restaurant has been rolled out on Seabourn Quest , Seabourn Ovation and Seabourn Sojourn and is scheduled to debut on Seabourn Encore in late April. Developed by two longtime Seabourn partners — master chef Anton Egger and corporate chef Franck Salein — Solis replaces chef Thomas Keller’s eponymous restaurant on Seabourn ships, ending the company’s eight-year partnership with the Michelin three-star culinary heavyweight. That news raised our eyebrows since Egger and Salein don’t share Keller’s celebritychef status. Dismissing skeptics, Seabourn noted that the two chefs have a winning track record with the cruise line: They were the masterminds behind its most popular dining venues, Earth & Ocean and Sushi.

A Glamorous Restaurant Chain Sets Sail With Crystal Crystal is partnering with Beefbar, the acclaimed Monte Carlo-based company that has more than 20 outlets around the world, including in St. Barths, Paris, Dubai and New York. Crystal originally announced a summer debut for the partnership — a first for Beefbar with a cruise line — but now says it will happen “this year.” The Beefbar franchise is known for its exemplary selection of prime cuts

“ CRYSTAL IS PARTNERING WITH BEEFBAR, THE ACCLAIMED MONTE CARLOBASED COMPANY THAT HAS MORE THAN 20 RESTAURANTS AROUND THE WORLD.

Quesadillas and kale salad at Beefbar restaurant, coming to Crystal

Chef Mauro Colagreco of acclaimed Mirazur in Menton, France, a stop on certain Silversea cruises

and over-the-top trophy dishes like spaghettini carbonara with caviar, wagyu quesadillas and chicken fried in Kobe beef tallow. Its restaurants will replace the Tastes Kitchen & Bar venues on Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony and serve lunch and dinner for no extra fee.

Silversea Takes Passengers to a “World’s Best” Top Spot

This summer, Silversea guests can dine at chef Mauro Colagreco’s three-Michelinstarred Mirazur in Menton, France. In 2019, it landed atop the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, compiled annually since 2002. Silversea, in an exclusive partnership with the esteemed chef, will offer an

all-day excursion in Menton and Monaco that features a nine-course tasting experience. The outing also includes shopping at Menton’s Old Town market with a Mirazur team member and visiting Colagreco’s sustainable bakery, Mitron, plus his vegetable gardens. Each excursion — offered on Silver Moon and Silver Ray (launching this summer) — is limited to 12 diners and costs around $1,500 per person.

Chef Michel Roux Jr. Headlines on the Queen Mary 2

Also this summer, Cunard is teaming up with chef Michel Roux Jr., who shuttered his London Michelin two-star Le Gavroche in January. Roux will headline Le Gavroche at Sea on four fjord sailings (June 2, August 6, August 11 and September 1) on Queen Mary 2 and Queen Anne, which launches this month. In partnership with the Norwegian Seafood Council, the chef says “treasures of Norwegian cuisine” will inspire the five-course dinners. He’s also creating a gala menu for the new ship’s Queens Grill and revamping the food in its Golden Lion pub, but Cunard is mum on what diners can expect.

Michelin-Star Chefs Shine at Explora Journeys’ Anthology

Explora Journeys continues partnering with Michelin-starred guest chefs, who create elevated seven-course tasting menus for Anthology restaurant aboard Explora I . In March, the venue started featuring the French cuisine of Claude Le

Tohic, chef-partner in the one-star O’ by Claude Le Tohic in San Francisco. Guests savor dishes such as barbecued langoustine, chicken breast with duck foie gras and cannelloni of scallop with black truffles. The dinner costs about $210, with wine pairings an additional $82. The yet-tobe-announced next chef takes over for Le Tohic in late June.

Atlas Ocean Voyages Brings Celebrity Chefs Onboard

Through October, 10 prominent chefs and sommeliers will lead culinary demonstrations, cooking classes and tastings as part of Atlas’ Epicurean Expeditions. The impressive lineup for the Mediterranean sailings on World Navigator , World Traveller and World Voyager includes Viet Pham, a winner of “Iron Chef America”; Philip “Ippy” Aiona, the youngest finalist on “Food Network Star”; and Sylwia Stachyra, a winner of “Top Chef Poland.”

A Seafood Expert on a Sea Cloud Cruise This Autumn

Chef Michael Collantes sails aboard Sea Cloud Spirit as guest chef for its October 5-12 itinerary from Nice to Barcelona. Collantes is head chef and owner of Soseki, a modern omakase restaurant with one Michelin star in Winter Park, Florida. The chef will give cooking demonstrations and prepare menus using sustainable fish and produce bought directly from local purveyors each morning. He’ll be joined by Benjamin Coutts, Soseki’s beverage director and winner of Michelin Guide’s Florida Sommelier Award in 2023.

Windstar Cruises Hosts Winners of James Beard Awards

Windstar is continuing its themed culinary cruises in partnership with the James Beard Foundation, a collaboration that began in 2016. Seven are on tap through next year featuring these foundationaffiliated chefs: Jennifer Hill Booker, Jamilka Borges, Larry Forgione, Jennifer Jasinski, Tanya Holland, José Mendín and Loryn Nalic. All but Booker and Holland have been either finalists or semifinalists in the prestigious James Beard Awards. On each cruise, one of the chefs will host a dinner (and wine pairing) featuring his or her signature dishes, give two cooking demonstrations and lead a shoreside market tour. This year’s sailings — on Star Pride, Star Legend and Wind Surf — are on May 28 and August 28; and next year’s are on March 15, April 12, June 29, August 27 and October 7.

Chef Michel Roux Jr., helming Le Gavroche at Sea on Cunard

Anthology restaurant aboard Explora I

David and Lisa Reath near Six Senses Ya Noi, Thailand, and King penguins in South Georgia, a stop on their transcontinental Silver Cloud cruise. Find more trip photos and the full interview at AndrewHarper.com.

We love reading about the travels of Andrew Harper members, and we suspect you enjoy learning about the explorations of fellow members as well. With that in mind, we’ve started a column that highlights your own globetrotting. For this edition, we interviewed the adventurous Lisa Reath about her travels with her husband, David.

How long have you been Andrew Harper members?

We have been Andrew Harper members for the past 17 years, joining back in the days of black-and-white line drawings in the Hideaway Report . Reading it is always a highlight of the month. Some of our best trips have been inspired by the newsletter.

Was there a recent trip that a newsletter inspired?

We just got back from a fabulous trip to Uruguay, a country that we never considered visiting until Andrew Harper declared it a “hidden gem.” It has everything: gorgeous beaches, incredible wildlife and wonderful food and wine. And no crowds! We followed the Harper itinerary online and virtually had the place to ourselves.

We took the Aqua Mekong cruise in Cambodia on the Hideaway Report recommendation and loved it so much that we also booked another Aqua cruise, down the Amazon in Peru.

So Peru is your next stop?

Actually, our next trip is a cruise on the AmaMagna from Budapest to Bucharest that we bought on the Andrew Harper auction

web page. After we get off the ship, we have a week in Transylvania, again inspired by the Hideaway Report

You also did an epic transcontinental cruise recently. Tell us about it.

Last year, my husband and I celebrated our retirement by taking a four-and-a-half-month expedition cruise with Silversea that went from Antarctica to Greenland. There were 42 of us who made the whole “Pole to Pole” trip, and we all became very close friends.

The Silver Cloud went from Antarctica across the South Atlantic, stopping at the Falklands, South Georgia and the most remote inhabited island in the world, Tristan da Cunha. From Cape Town, we rounded the eastern coast of South Africa, stopping for safaris along the way. We sailed dhows in Mozambique, met lemurs in Madagascar and snorkeled our way through the Seychelles.

We crossed the Indian Ocean and spent five days each in Oman and Saudi Arabia. After a brief stop in Djibouti, we traversed the Suez Canal with stops in Egypt, the Greek Islands and Albania. Next was Algeria, a place that hadn’t seen a cruise ship in over 10 years, then on to more traditional anchorages in Spain, Portugal and Brittany, France. We explored the Hebrides on the way to Iceland and finally Greenland.

We missed our friends and family back home, for sure, but were not ready for the adventure to end.

Do you have a travel story you would like to share? Contact us at AskHarper@ AndrewHarper.com, and we may feature you in the next Member Spotlight column!

LAST WORD

LESS TIME IS MORE

W

hen I tell people I’m heading to Australia, their demeanor often turns wistful. “I’d love to go to Australia,” many say, “but I’d want to take at least three or four weeks, since I’m going all that way — there’s just so much to see.” And yes, there is a lot to see. But if you wait until you have a full month to see “everything,” you risk seeing nothing. I recommend taking a smaller bite of Australia and returning for more if you like it. There’s no rule that you have to pack the wonders of an entire continent into a single trip! The thought of a transpacific flight may seem daunting, but once aboard the plane, I find that my sights adjust to the trip’s length and I relax. Especially for those of us fortunate enough to sit in business or first class, the flight can even be a pleasure. And once you’ve arrived, friendly, English-speaking Australia is a breeze to explore. If it’s a place that’s high on your list, just have our Travel Office design a trip for you and book it. Easy. A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush, so to speak.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Since the launch of the Hideaway Report in 1979, featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. Unless otherwise noted, Andrew Harper editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses.