JULY 2024
ANDREW HARPER’S
SINCE 1979
TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES
GOURMET GOLD for the
This month, all eyes are on Paris, host of the XXXIII Olympiad. We seized on this as an excuse to return to France’s capital, where we reviewed six boutique hotels and numerous restaurants (plus dinner cruises, shopping and more — everything that we couldn’t fit into print is on AndrewHarper.com). We also made our first editorial foray to
Oaxaca, another destination known for its cuisine, where we discovered a hideaway in a mezcal distillery and a refreshingly affordable beach escape. Our website debuts a new “Exclusive Experiences” section that we’re all quite excited about. And we highlight the globe-trotting of several of our travel advisors, who can offer members firsthand advice when planning vacations.
Heralding the Olympics at the French National Assembly
PARIS ON THE PODIUM
We investigate the Right Bank in advance of the 2024 Olympics
The hotel scene of Paris is always evolving, but with the start of the Summer Olympics at the end of the month, it’s in a veritable froth. Long-standing properties are upping their game, ardently renovating to accommodate the anticipated influx of visitors, and new openings have been mushrooming. Tempted though I was to check in on beloved grand palace hotels, it’s not really news that the Ritz Paris or Le Bristol are nice places to stay. Therefore, I dedicated my most recent trip to discovering new boutique hotels and re-reviewing two previously recommended hideaways. This is the Hideaway Report , after all.
LE GRAND MAZARIN
We started in the Marais, spanning the 3rd and 4th arrondissements. By the 17th century, it had become a fashionable hub for Parisian aristocrats, and today the neighborhood is celebrated for its fine restaurants, Jewish heritage, LGBTQ-friendly atmosphere and lively arts scene.
In this historic neighborhood, where many hotels stick to a traditional French style, we found the 61-room Le Grand Mazarin to be a breath of fresh air. The cheeky interior décor, created by Swedish designer Martin Brudnizki, flaunts whimsical works of art and playful mismatched patterns and textiles. An abundance of staff worked the front desk, day and night, and service was impeccable. Clad in retro deep-purple
uniforms reminiscent of those worn by the bellhops in Wes Anderson’s “The Grand Budapest Hotel,” the employees snagged us hard-to-get seats at Paris’ newest cabaret and last-minute reservations at starred restaurants.
Our flamboyant Parisian Junior Suite came with painted wardrobes, a pink-andwhite-striped bench, leopard-print side chairs and idiosyncratic bedside lamps embellished by ceramic curlicues. The most impressive feature was the Aubusson-style tapestry that served as the bed’s canopy. Our windows looked out to the inner dining courtyard, but since we could see into the rooms across, we would have preferred a more private street-facing accommodation.
The hotel’s restaurant, Boubalé (a Yiddish term meaning “my little darling”), offers a creative Eastern European menu. Dishes such as the tarama (cured cod roe) paired with challah brûlée and the olive-and-pinenut-crusted sea bream with a yogurt sauce were unexpected and delightful. Meals are served in a main dining room decorated with folk-art-like motifs or on a bright winter-garden terrace. At the end of our evenings, we often went back to the latter to enjoy one of the unpredictable and delicious cocktails — the Sababoush mixed boukha (an eau de vie made from figs) with eggplant and oregano essences, for example. But the highlight of this property is its subterranean pool. Featuring a vaulted
NEWLY RECOMMENDED
LE GRAND MAZARIN
RATING 95
LIKE
The playful interior décor; the proactive service; the gorgeous hand-painted ceiling above the swimming pool.
DISLIKE
Our room-service breakfast arrived cold, but they quickly replaced the dishes and removed the meal from our bill.
GOOD TO KNOW
The on-site cabaret space (currently closed to the public) can be rented for private events.
ROOM TO BOOK
A Grand Parisian Junior Suite for its private balcony. Avoid courtyard-facing rooms, which offer less privacy.
BENEFITS
A $100 hotel credit for stays of two or more nights.
$$$; Marais
“AN ABUNDANCE OF STAFF WORKED THE FRONT DESK, DAY AND NIGHT, AND SERVICE WAS IMPECCABLE.
ceiling with a dreamlike botanical mural that spans the entire room, the space is beautiful and utterly tranquil.
While the hotel’s décor is eclectic, it never crosses the line to kitschy. Brudnizki has created a lavish universe at Le Grand Mazarin that pairs well with a stay at a more traditional hotel, and with a switch to the Cour des Vosges, we did just that.
COUR DES VOSGES
Occupying a 17th-century townhouse of red brick and limestone, this hotel is ideally situated on the magnificent Place des Vosges, one of the loveliest squares in Paris. We pushed through a heavy unmarked door squeezed between a new-age patisserie and a classic brasserie and stepped into an intimate space facing a flower-filled inner courtyard. There is no formal lobby or reception desk, but a staff member is always working at a table in the entry.
Le Bar de Boubalé, designer Martin Brudnizki and a Parisian Junior Suite, Le Grand Mazarin
COUR DES VOSGES RATING 91
LIKE
The prime location; the well-stocked bookshelves; the fresh juices and pastries in our room.
DISLIKE
The lack of a bar or formal restaurant; our Junior Suite’s limited lighting.
GOOD TO KNOW
A fitness program is available via a QR code; Superior Suites allow in-room smoking.
ROOM TO BOOK
A brighter Deluxe Suite, for its kitchenette and floor-to-ceiling windows.
BENEFITS
Q Club benefit: Private gallery tour led by the hotel’s art curator; $100 spa credit; daily breakfast for two; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.
$$$; Marais
Because the elevator is small, the amiable woman who checked us in ran up the three floors to meet us at the top. Each of the 12 rooms is individually decorated, but they all come with uninterrupted views of the Place des Vosges and expertly curated collections of sculptures and ceramics. The best, most spacious accommodations are on the first floor (above the ground floor); lodgings and their windows get smaller the higher up you go.
Our Junior Suite was soothingly quiet. We soon settled into the couch in our living room, getting lost flipping through the art books stacked high. Our windows were not large, but the vistas over the top of the square’s linden trees were mesmerizing. It wasn’t until evening that we realized the room had no ceiling lights and only a few low-wattage floor lamps. The only illumination in the bath was the light around the mirror, making shaving and makeup application nearly impossible.
Cour des Vosges does not have a spa, gym or restaurant, but we loved the thoughtful touches throughout: welcome pastries sourced from Yann Brys’ patisserie downstairs, complimentary fruit juices, a Dyson hair-dryer menu, Devialet speakers and reusable branded water bottles. We did book
a private session in the Roman bath-inspired heated pool set under a vaulted ceiling in the hotel’s basement and floated peacefully, feeling far removed from the city. Despite the inadequate lighting and limited on-site amenities, this property’s cocoonlike atmosphere and profoundly Parisian style make it special. Cour des Vosges is best suited to self-sufficient travelers seeking a high degree of privacy.
MAISON PROUST
Opened in January 2023 on a quiet side street in the Marais, this hotel pays homage to one of France’s greatest literary legends, Marcel Proust, a significant figure in the cultural landscape of the Belle Epoque.
Superior Suite and tea service, Cour des Vosges
The discreet exterior of this hotel did not prepare us for the extravagance inside. We were met with a beguiling fin-de-siècle décor designed by Jacques Garcia. Since the front desk was empty, we looked around, discovering a glamorous bar furnished with antique mirrors, vintage crystal chandeliers and smoky-blue banquettes. Farther on was a circular domed salon holding more than 500 leather-bound books. Later, we came across the hotel’s chief amenity: a subtly lit spa featuring a striking Moorish-style pool. Eventually we returned to the lounge, where a staff member checked us in while texting. She then pointed us to the elevator.
The 23 guest rooms, each devoted to a muse or creative contemporary of Proust, are decorated with the same 19thcentury-inspired panache. In our romantic suite, I admired the bath’s leather-lined walls embossed with flowers and birds and the bedroom’s patterned-silk walls. Most charming was a secret desk tucked away in a corner behind thick red-velvet drapes.
Though the hotel lacks a formal dining menu, we enjoyed breakfast each morning in a sunny glassed-in winter garden. Maison Proust is particularly popular on Fridays, when Colin Field, the celebrated bartender formerly of Bar Hemingway at the Ritz Paris,
“THE HOTEL IS SITUATED ON THE MAGNIFICENT PLACE DES VOSGES, ONE OF THE LOVELIEST SQUARES IN PARIS.
is the guest mixologist. He’s best known for creating bespoke cocktails for customers just by looking at them.
I’d recommend Maison Proust but for the unprofessional staff, who gossiped about clients in public and sometimes treated our requests as inconveniences. We consistently contended with delays and excuses. This is a hotel where I could have easily imagined Josephine Baker sharing a drink with Colette. If only the staff had lived up to the setting.
MAISON VILLEROY
For our next few nights, we relocated to the Right Bank’s prestigious 8th arrondissement, home to the Golden Triangle. Delineated by the avenues Montaigne, Georges V and Champs-Élysées, this neighborhood is synonymous with upscale shopping and fine dining.
We were drawn to the Maison Villeroy for its setting within a graceful 1908 mansion and its Michelin-starred restaurant. The petite undecorated reception area was in stark contrast to the grandiose lobby set beneath a multilevel rotunda. Curved marble stairs with wrought-iron banisters lead to the 11 residential-style accommodations that range from 300 to 2,540 square feet, the size of our Thimonnier Premier Suite. As we snacked on housemade hazelnut cookies, we took in the room’s tall windows, elegant contemporary décor, understated gold-tinted artwork and calming, earthy tones. The plush featherbed was a delight, but the curved velour chairs fronting it were clunky. Indeed, the whole room was overfurnished, so despite its large size, it felt cramped.
MAISON PROUST RATING 89
LIKE
The subterranean Moroccan-style pool; the transporting atmosphere dedicated to the Belle Epoque era; the intricate Pierre Frey wallpaper throughout the hotel.
DISLIKE
The poorly trained and pretentious staff.
GOOD TO KNOW
Private use of the pool is complimentary for hotel guests; renowned mixologist Colin Field is a guest bartender every Friday.
ROOM TO BOOK
An Executive Suite, for its extra space.
$$$; Marais
MAISON VILLEROY RATING 89
LIKE
The sense of exclusivity; the modern European cooking in the atmospheric restaurant; the lengthy list of Japanese whiskies.
DISLIKE
The lack of service at the bar; the emptiness of the public spaces; the tiny spa treatment room; our overfurnished suite.
GOOD TO KNOW
The hotel operates a private club offering members unlimited access to the restaurant and gym.
ROOM TO BOOK
A Thimonnier Premier Suite, for its extra halfbath and separate living area.
$$$$; Golden Triangle
To read about our disappointing stay at Maison Delano, view the full version of this story on AndrewHarper.com.
Place des Vosges
SAN RÉGIS RATING 93
LIKE
The atmosphere, reminiscent of a traditional Paris residence; the art throughout the property; the convivial lounges.
DISLIKE
The staff’s inflexibility in their dining recommendations; the restaurant’s lack of daily specials.
GOOD TO KNOW
Advance reservations for the hotel’s gourmet goûter are required.
ROOM TO BOOK
A Terrace Junior Suite, for Eiffel Tower views from a private balcony.
BENEFITS
Q Club benefit: €50 restaurant credit per person; welcome inroom chef delicacies; daily breakfast; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade on arrival, subject to availability.
$$$$; Golden Triangle
Before dinner, we popped into the swanky Jean Goujon bar, made homey by a fireplace and plush sofas. Our sense of comfort was short-lived, alas, as no server ever arrived, even after we asked at reception. Contrary to the bar, our experience at one-star TrenteTrois was wonderful. The clubby dining room was a handsome space in which to enjoy chef Sébastien Sanjou’s modern French cooking. The staff doted on us.
This hotel exudes exclusivity and could be mistaken for a wealthy friend’s beautifully decorated townhouse. The Maison Villeroy is alluring in theory, but it lacks spirit. Most of the time, the bar was empty and the lobby unattended. We often felt forgotten.
SAN RÉGIS
Just a five-minute walk from Maison Villeroy in a 19th-century neoclassical mansion, the San Régis displays a quintessentially French style with no signs of the contemporary. Opened as a hotel in 1923 by the founder of La Tour d’Argent restaurant, this familyrun property offers a calming respite from the bustle of the nearby Avenue des ChampsÉlysées. I had heard rumblings that the long-recommended 42-room property had
faded a bit, so I decided it was time for an anonymous reassessment.
Thanks to the Harper member benefits confirmed by the Travel Office, we were upgraded to a Junior Suite. It featured PierreYves Rochon interiors: sumptuous silk-lined walls, toile de Jouy patterns and exquisite antiques. Yet the ostensibly formal space invited relaxation, with warm lighting, a comfy couch and soft carpeting.
Several lounges provided convivial places to relax and meet other guests. The restaurant, Les Confidences, resembles a winter garden, and its design flawlessly juxtaposes Belle Epoque and Japanese elements. Here, we dined on sea bass and shrimp in hazelnut butter and a pecan-praline mille-feuille.
Another culinary highlight is the hotel’s goûter, a sort of afternoon tea in which pastry chef Jessica Préalpato serves an array of sweet and savory treats. As we passed guests enjoying little cakes and Champagne, we regretted not making reservations.
The staff was highly professional, greeting us with an enchanting Old World formality, though at times we were frustrated by their inflexibility. One evening, we were in search of an avant-garde restaurant, but they kept directing us toward traditional, decades-old establishments.
But overall, I’m pleased to say that the rumors of this hotel’s decline are much exaggerated. The San Régis remains a polished Parisian bolthole ideal for travelers looking for a small property that exemplifies the character of 19th-century France. H
Entrance and Junior Suite, San Régis
PARIS RESTAURANTS: NEW AND RENEWED
On this trip to Paris, we tested out two new spots and re-reviewed four celebrated restaurants that have undergone noteworthy changes. (See all the fulllength reviews at AndrewHarper.com.)
Mistinguett
Opened in November 2023, this glamorous restaurant is within the Casino de Paris, an iconic barrel-vaulted music hall dating back to the 18th century, illuminated by its massive stained-glass window. In contrast to the dramatic décor, the elevated French dishes are simply plated. While I very much enjoyed the sea bream flambéed in whisky and paired with a Jerusalem-artichoke purée, the real highlight at Mistinguett is its dessert menu. The fresh gariguette strawberries accompanied by a rich mascarpone mousse, strawberry jam, crumbled shortbread and caramelized pistachios were nothing short of heavenly. 16 RUE DE CLICHY, 9TH ARR.
La Tour d’Argent
Hémicycle
It took only four months for this restaurant to earn a Michelin star after its opening late last year. Serving creative Italian-French-fusion cuisine, Hémicycle is popular for power lunches, since it stands adjacent to the National Assembly. The Italian-speaking staff brought a welcome touch of conviviality that tempered the formal midcentury-modern design. My starter — a large morel filled with chopped beef and mushrooms and accompanied by a flaky brioche and mixed-herb emulsion — was delectable, as was my entrée of roasted sea bass served with turnip ravioli in an elderberry-infused lemon sauce. The owners opened a dessert bar shortly after our visit.
RUE DE BOURGOGNE, 7TH ARR.
CLOSED SUNDAY AND MONDAY. 5
Ogata
Described by The Japan Times as an “embassy for Japanese elegance in Europe,” Ogata is a hidden gem comprising a tearoom, restaurant, pastry shop, art gallery and boutique selling high-end handcrafted homewares, all housed within a 17th-century mansion in the Marais. We were seated at the long counter that wraps around a spacious, immaculate open kitchen. The tasting menu began with an assortment of starters placed within a bento box. The soy-glazed tuna and smoked daikon offered a subtle interplay of flavors. The binchotan-grilled pork that followed was impeccably cooked. We already have plans to come back for a tea ceremony. 16 RUE DEBELLEYME, 3RD ARR.
Laurent
Discreetly situated amid lush gardens at the end of the Avenue des ChampsÉlysées, this acclaimed restaurant is set within a pretty pink building that was originally a hunting pavilion of Louis XIV. After a lengthy renovation, Laurent reopened in September 2023 with a new chef at the helm. The menu, backed by a 46-page wine list, remains grounded in French staples — duck foie gras, escargots and veal terrine — and, to Parisians’ great relief, chef Mathieu Pacaud still serves the restaurant’s original blue-lobster salad. The lavish semi-rotunda dining room features exquisite flower arrangements, tall potted palms and grandiose chandeliers. The fare here is excellent, but the service is lacking. As soon as our food was served, we were ignored. Even so, I will return in summer to dine at the gorgeous private garden terrace. CLOSED SUNDAY. 41 AVENUE GABRIEL, 8TH ARR.
La Tour d’Argent
Surely the most anticipated restaurant reopening of 2023 was the iconic La Tour d’Argent, which had closed in May 2022 for renovations. The owners have added a rooftop bar, a new polo-themed bar-lounge on the ground floor and an exclusive fifth-floor apartment available for rent. La Tour d’Argent is renowned for its 400-page wine list and its specialty of pressed duck. The tradition of numbering each bird began in 1890 and, at the end of the meal, I was presented with an illustrated card with the number of my particular duck (No. 1184357). La Tour d’Argent manages to be both historic and totally relevant. It’s one of my favorite tables in town. 15 QUAI DE LA TOURNELLE, 5TH ARR.
Terrace, Laurent
MAGIC AND MEZCAL IN OAXACA
The increasing popularity of this southern Mexican state is richly deserved
Sometimes I find myself in a destination that would be otherwise unremarkable if not for a fabulous hotel. Fortunately, Oaxaca was not one of those places. In Oaxaca City, inventive restaurants use ancient traditions to create modern recipes, Banda music echoes through the streets during wedding parades, and the colorful colonial architecture is a visual feast. Oaxaca is truly and authentically Mexican. Beyond the city, the Oaxaca state is a difficult place to explore without a guide. The Travel Office can set up fascinating day trips to remote artisan villages, mezcal distilleries, breathtaking natural wonders and enigmatic ancient ruins.
On the wild Oaxacan coast, where tiny hippie enclaves contrast chic art-centric retreats, my traveling companion and I discovered an appealing hideaway outside the renowned surf town of Puerto Escondido. It was a relaxing finish to my first editorial exploration of Oaxaca, but it surely won’t be my last. I look forward to returning to discover more of its cultural and ecological riches as more luxury hotels open, which they certainly will.
CASA ANTONIETA
Because Oaxaca City (for now) lacks any hotels from major luxury brands, we focused our attention on boutique properties — with
From left: Hierve el Agua, a mineral spring in the Oaxacan countryside; Teatro Macedonio Alcalá in Oaxaca City; and a Puerto Escondido beach
“IN MANY WAYS, OAXACA FEELS LIKE ITS OWN COUNTRY.
mixed results. Our first and best stop was the charming nine-room Casa Antonieta, set in a peaceful Spanish Colonial building that’s part of a former convent dating to the 1500s.
Just steps from the check-in desk, our Antonieta Standard room opened directly onto the plant-filled courtyard that serves as the lobby. Though spacious and highceilinged, it had just one window that faced the interior courtyard at ground level and afforded us no privacy. With the curtains closed, our room seemed like a basement, and the dim lighting made no attempt to convince us otherwise. A noisy dehumidifier chugged away in the corner, adding to the cellar ambience. These design missteps were especially frustrating given how lovely the hotel was otherwise. Our room’s décor was delightful, with a woven tapestry on the wall and a unique custom rattan bed frame with built-in bedside tables and beaded lamps.
café and the rooftop bar, both popular with expats. We visited multiple times, savoring authentic croissants and fresh green juice at Muss Café and dining on guacamole accompanied by Mexican rosé at Amá Terrazza. While Casa Antonieta does not meet Andrew Harper standards, it’s a tranquil and chic (if not luxurious) option for those who appreciate boutique properties. For travelers seeking a more traditional hotel experience, complete with a doorman, a restaurant and a pool, Quinta Real Oaxaca
CASA ANTONIETA
RATING 87
LIKE
The quiet location two blocks from the Zócalo; the rooftop bar and lobby café; the beautiful architecture and local design details.
DISLIKE
MEXICO
MEXICO CITY
I was also impressed with the friendly staff, including the servers at the ground-floor
The sewage-like smells emanating from the shower drain; the location of our room practically in the lobby; the lack of amenities like a steamer, mini-fridge and laundry service.
GOOD TO KNOW
The hotel is planning on finishing the first-floor (American second-floor) rooms in 2025; check the dates before you book.
ROOM TO BOOK Suite 15, for its size and natural light. (Or wait until 2025 for one of the first-floor rooms to be ready.)
$; Oaxaca City
NEWLY RECOMMENDED
CASA SILENCIO RATING 90
LIKE
The dramatic architecture; the mezcal tour and tasting; the awe-inspiring sunsets; the remote location; the fun communal dinners.
DISLIKE
The tiny pool that was too hot to be refreshing during the day and too cold to use at night; the lack of air-conditioning.
GOOD TO KNOW
The hotel offers few on-site activities besides tours of its distillery and mezcal tastings, so arrange any additional excursions in advance. Guests under the age of 18 are not permitted.
ROOM TO BOOK Tierra, which has a clawfoot tub.
$$ (all meals and a mezcal tasting included);
Xaagá
“THE HOTEL IS AN ARCHITECTURAL MARVEL IN A DESERTED CORNER OF THE XAAGÁ VALLEY.
may be a better option. Unfortunately, it’s too old-fashioned for me to fully endorse.
I failed to find a recommendable hotel in Oaxaca City (we also stayed at Pug Seal, a fashionable but subpar lodging), but I hope the lack of luxury accommodations does not deter you from experiencing one of the most magical cities in Mexico.
CASA SILENCIO
I’ve spent the night at more than my fair share of wineries around the world, but Casa Silencio was my first stay at a mezcal distillery. This six-room ecolodge is owned by El Silencio, one of the top mezcal brands exporting to the United States. Though the website and branding looked a bit too edgy for a recommendable hotel, we had a very pleasant and educational stay.
About an hour southeast of downtown Oaxaca City, the hotel is an architectural marvel in a deserted corner of the Xaagá valley. After we arrived, we headed straight for the tiny above-ground solar-heated plunge pool before joining a complimentary tour of the attached mezcal distillery. It
ended in a tasting that paired its mezcals with tiny jewel-like bites: a vegan Oaxaca cheese, a mezcal-flavored gummy and nutty chocolates, each dusted with edible glitter. Our mezcal tasting turned into sundowners on the deck. Against a backdrop of agave plants and scrubby mountains, we could see a lightning storm in the distance. As the sun sank behind pink-purple clouds, pinpricks of light illuminated tiny towns in the valley below. It was a sunset to rival any in Mexico.
We had dinner with new friends from the mezcal tasting. Together, we sat at the long basalt table that extends the length of the dining room and onto the deck, enjoying a five-course meal of unpretentious and homey fine dining. We stayed long into the evening, lingering over mezcal cocktails and swapping travel stories while a crackling bonfire filled the air with the scent of palo santo.
But while the experience at this hotel was divine, our accommodations were less so. The attractive rooms favor form over function. Our room, Aire, had an elaborate beamed ceiling and walls of windows. But with no heat or air-conditioning, it was
Passion-fruit mezcalita and exterior, Casa Silencio
unbearably hot during the day and chilly in the evening. Aire also lacked any kind of storage for luggage or clothing, and the shower floor was dangerously slippery. This was also the most expensive property we stayed at in Oaxaca by far. But even accounting for those faults, this was our most luxurious hotel experience there, and the remote location and fantastic (included) meals justified the cost.
HOTEL ESCONDIDO
From Oaxaca City, we ventured to the Pacific coast via a somewhat terrifying 35-minute ride on an ancient 12-passenger prop plane.
(For those uninterested in flying, the trip takes three to four hours on the new Barranca Larga-Ventanilla Highway that winds through the mountains, and the Travel Office can arrange a private driver.)
From the airport in the somewhat seedy surf town of Puerto Escondido, our driver took us 45 minutes northwest to reach Hotel Escondido. Opened in 2014, the peaceful hotel has 16 individual thatch-roof casitas with plunge pools that offer total privacy. Though the area is quickly becoming a hot spot for in-the-know travelers thanks to the artist residency next door, the beach is still
NEWLY RECOMMENDED HOTEL ESCONDIDO RATING 90
LIKE
The excellent local seafood; the peaceful setting; the sound of crashing waves lulling us to sleep each night.
DISLIKE
The lack of art or decoration in the rooms; the unswimmable ocean.
GOOD TO KNOW
On my next visit, I may try the Hotel Terrestre, the sister property down the road where open-air rooms face the desert. Guests under the age of 16 are not permitted.
ROOM TO BOOK
A Deluxe Room, for its private plunge pool and direct beach access (all rooms are the same).
$$ (breakfast and dinner included); Puerto Escondido
Beach and main pool (top) and Deluxe Room, Hotel Escondido
CASONA SFORZA RATING 89
LIKE
The unique brick architecture; the attentive staff; the authentic Italian dishes.
DISLIKE
The patches of oxidized paint in the otherwise picturesque pool; the unfortunate location.
GOOD TO KNOW
Though nothing specific about the hotel would make older travelers feel unwelcome, the entire destination is geared toward a young demographic. During our time there, we didn’t come across a single guest or employee over the age of 40. The hotel has no spa, but you can book a massage in a private cabana on the beach.
ROOM TO BOOK
The top-floor Hot Tub Master Suite, which has a private deck with a hot tub overlooking the beach.
$; Puerto Escondido
“IT COSTS A FRACTION OF WHAT A COMPARABLE OCEANFRONT CASITA WOULD IN NAYARIT OR BAJA.
relatively undeveloped, and we were able to spot rare birds from our private pool. A wall of sliding doors made the minimalist interior feel like an extension of the private deck area, though with creature comforts such as air-conditioning and television.
Meals — breakfast and dinner are included in the nightly rate — were delicious and unpretentious, featuring fresh seafood and local flavors. Shockingly, a stay here costs less than $600 per night, a fraction of what a comparable oceanfront casita would be in Nayarit, Baja or the Riviera Maya.
If it sounds too good to be true, keep in mind that there’s one major catch: When we visited in March, the beach was unsafe for swimming, with strong currents and rough waves crashing onto the sand. Fortunately, the weather was cool enough that we were content to simply walk along the beach, admiring the spectacular modern villas tucked away in the dunes. There is a rugged beauty to this stretch of coast that inspires a meditative mood. Even at the hotel, everything was serene and quiet.
There’s not much to do here, but after a week of early mornings and late nights in Oaxaca City, that was fine by me. We did make it to the big local attraction, Fundación Casa Wabi, for a tour of the Tadao Andodesigned museum and studio. We also enjoyed a night out at the only restaurant in walking distance, an improbable high-end omakase-style restaurant in a nearby palapa.
Though it may not be an easy Mexican beach getaway (the Puerto Escondido airport is tiny with no direct flights to the U.S.), that’s the whole point. It’s a luxuriously remote destination that can stand alone as a long weekend trip or as an extension to a visit of Oaxaca City.
CASONA SFORZA
After a few peaceful days at Hotel Escondido, we headed back past the airport to
the 11-room Casona Sforza, on the beach in a residential part of Puerto Escondido. Since the hotel opened in 2021, it’s garnered praise from travel and design magazines. The plaudits are entirely justified. It’s a beautifully designed property that feels both glamorous and down-to-earth. Our Private Pool Senior Suite on the ground floor was reminiscent of a stylish modern wine cellar, with brick walls that curved into an arched ceiling. The king bed stood in the middle of the room, and a private deck with a plunge pool looked out onto the beach. With the doors open, the room was airy and bright, and we could hear the roar of the ocean nearby.
Our room had plenty of privacy, but we were also just steps from the main building, which houses an open-air restaurant along with a bar and lounge area. We spent most of our time at the hotel under an umbrella at the pool, where attentive staff came by frequently to check on us. After days of adventurous dining, the Italian-inflected menu was a welcome change, and the fresh pastas and Neapolitan pizzas were impeccable. (Mexican seafood dishes like fish tacos and shrimp ceviche were also available.)
While the sophisticated food, considerate staff and stylish rooms make it a lovely place to spend a few days, Casona Sforza’s location on an unswimmable beach surrounded by semi-abandoned construction projects is unappealing. The town of Puerto Escondido is both too close for comfort and too far for convenience. And though the gritty surfer town has a fashionable side (I saw just as many chic city types as backpackers), it’s lacking any kind of allure. If this hotel were in a charming village, on a calm whitesand beach or even up the coast near Hotel Escondido and Casa Wabi, I’m sure I’d be rating it quite differently. But unfortunately, the hotel’s only flaw — its location — is a fatal one. H
Casa Wabi, a museum and artist retreat in Puerto Escondido
DINING HOT SPOTS
Oaxaca City takes food seriously, with high-caliber restaurants serving unique local dishes. In contrast, restaurants in Puerto Escondido are mostly international, with hints of Mexican flavor. Here are three highlights from our trip; read all of our reviews on AndrewHarper.com.
El Destilado
El Destilado was our first stop in Oaxaca, a cool and casual space reminiscent of a friendly neighborhood bar. We opted for the shorter six-course tasting menu, which proved to be an exciting introduction to Oaxacan cuisine: By the end of the meal, the number of creatures we had consumed was well north of a dozen. We sampled lacto-fermented broth with candied trout and smoked mussels; surprisingly succulent turkey served with an earthy mole; and my favorite dish, the “festival of tomatoes,” an umami-rich trio of fermented, roasted and smoked tomatoes topped with a sun-dried tomato pesto. Unique drink pairings included a smoky Negroni made with Oaxacan gin and an authentic Junmai sake made in Mexico with Japanese rice. We left with a tiny take-home bag of chocolate bars and mini bottles of mezcal. El Destilado is a dining adventure for serious foodies, but even those used to more casual fare
will be well rewarded for stepping out of their culinary comfort zones. 5 DE MAYO 409, OAXACA CITY
La Cocina de Humo
La Cocina de Humo is a whole experience. An offshoot of Michelin-starred Levadura de Olla, also in Oaxaca, La Cocina de Humo is chef Thalia Barrios’ “smoke kitchen,” inspired by traditional Oaxacan cooking. We made a reservation for lunch. Inside, we were seated at a long table with the only other patrons, a couple from Mexico City, as a young chef prepared a multicourse feast using only a wood-fired clay oven. The duck taquito with mole was the highlight of the meal (and of our day). My traveling companion had just tried the famous mole dish at Pujol in Mexico City and claimed this version put it to shame. This was one of the most memorable meals of my year so far. Though our lunch was conducted in Spanish, the restaurant can arrange for a translator or an English-speaking chef. CLOSED SUNDAY. GONZÁLEZ ORTEGA 514, OAXACA CITY
Kakurega Omakase
Kakurega (“hideout” in Japanese) performs an improbable culinary feat. In an open-air palapa, chef Keisuke Harada crafts a superb omakase menu of local seafood. Reservations must be booked and prepaid online, and the two or three nightly seatings sell out quickly. I made my reservation as soon as we booked the hotel. We walked over from Hotel Escondido just after sunset, ambling up a sandy path between palm trees to reach the palapa. All 12 of us seated at the bar dined simultaneously, which fostered a fun and communal atmosphere. The 10-course meal included sashimi and nigiri courses along with French-inflected dishes like sea snails and escargot in parsley butter and local snapper in a creamy mushroom sauce. Apart from a not-quite-delicious “dog tongue” mollusk, the meal was impeccable. CLOSED TUESDAY. CARRETERA FEDERAL SALINA CRUZ-SANTIAGO PINOTEPA NACIONAL KM 113, PUERTO ESCONDIDO
GUIDED EXCURSIONS
The natural wonders and rich cultural attractions of Oaxaca are best explored with a guide. Whether you’re interested in art, history or food, the Travel Office can arrange fascinating day trips with experts.
Zapotec Ruins
Two ancient ruins, Monte Albán and Mitla, offer captivating glimpses into the region’s rich pre-Columbian history. Monte Albán was the ancient Zapotec capital, established around 500 B.C.
This UNESCO World Heritage site is a short day trip from Oaxaca City that can be combined with an excursion farther afield to Mitla, a religious center colloquially referred to as the Zapotec Vatican. At the small site, we toured a low pyramid carved with geometric patterns. We were allowed to climb up and inside the structure, allowing us to fully experience the sacred site. Although it’s not as well known as Monte Albán, Mitla is well worth the detour. Consider having your travel advisor arrange a full-day exploration of these two sites before an overnight at Casa Silencio (see page 10), which is 20 minutes from Mitla.
Read about Hierve el Agua and other excursions at AndrewHarper.com.
Yellow jack with xnipec salsa, nopales, tobiko and pitiona mole, El Destilado
Columns inside the ruins in Mitla
EXCLUSIVE EXPERIENCES LAUNCH
As someone who reviews hotels for a living, it’s a bit embarrassing to admit that some of my favorite trips have had nothing to do with hotels at all. Sailing amid Indonesian archipelagoes aboard the charter-only Celestia ranks high on my all-time best list, as does my lazy, glamorous week with friends at a villa in St. Barths. Having a space that’s entirely your own feels like luxury indeed. Our advisors in the Travel Office have helped members organize villas, yachts and private jets for many years. To make browsing them easier, we’ve now put a rotating selection on our website: a portal called Exclusive Experiences. Creating it was a true labor of love, and it inspired no small amount of wanderlust on our part! Here is a sampling of what you can find there.
VILLAS
Booking your own private base of operations has many advantages, especially for families and groups of friends traveling together. What I particularly appreciate about staying in a villa is having my own gathering spaces, which take on added importance when traveling with children. They’re free to make as much noise as they please in the lounge or at the pool, where we’re the only guests.
Our advisors can find the property that’s precisely suited to your party, whether you’re looking for a Tuscan farmhouse, a seaside escape or a castle perfect for a wedding. One place I have my eye on for a couples’ getaway is
a staffed apartment in Paris on the Place du Trocadéro, with Eiffel Tower views. I would love to host a (catered) dinner party in its dining room! A villa on a private peninsula in the Dominican Republic that holds up to 28 guests has me contemplating going to celebrate a milestone birthday.
We have villas in all sorts of less expected places as well. For example, Hideaway Report readers may recall us describing our unforgettable stay at Ol Jogi, in Kenya, surrounded by a private 58,000-acre wildlife conservancy.
HOTEL BUYOUTS
Many of the hideaways we recommend are small enough to book in their entirety. Then the hotel, in effect, becomes your own personal villa. It comes with staff, of course, and your party has the run of the property.
Several of our favorite luxury safari camps and lodges are ideal for buyouts. I’m considering bringing my family to Waterside, Royal Malewane’s newest set of accommodations in a private conservancy near Kruger National Park. Closer to home, Caldera House has eight stylishly appointed two- and four-bedroom apartments in Teton Village. Its location adjacent to the Aerial Tram and a short drive from Grand Teton National Park makes it ideal for both skiing and hiking seasons.
PRIVATE ISLANDS
The idea of reserving an island all to oneself is so alluring, we created
an entire category dedicated to the experience. Private islands aren’t just for those seeking exclusive beachside relaxation. They can be bases for itineraries full of memorable excursions. Not that there’s anything wrong with exclusive beachside relaxation. In fact, if I ever take a long enough break from editorial trips, I would escape with a group to Kudadoo Maldives Private Island, a 15-Residence resort that was also our 2023 Hideaway of the Year. It’s possible to book just a single accommodation there, as we did. But secur-
Dream Island, near Kudadoo Maldives Private Island
ing the entire place for your family or friends would make for an even more extraordinary experience.
Another place I’d love to bring a group is Cayo Espanto, set on a 4-acre islet off the coast of Belize’s Ambergris Caye. It can host up to 18 people in its seven cottages, from which you can go bonefishing, sailing and snorkeling.
YACHT CHARTERS
Sailing around the Virgin Islands and motoring down the spectacularly scenic coast of Croatia rank among the world’s great travel experiences. I recommend both wholeheartedly, and our travel advisors would be happy to assist with either. But we don’t just work with yachts in the classic destinations.
Not long ago, we had a marvelous week aboard the Aqua Mare in the Galápagos Islands, for example. We booked a single cabin, but the plush 164-foot vessel has just seven staterooms in total, making it quite feasible to reserve for private use. The aforementioned Celestia also has seven staterooms, but as a phinisi (a sailing yacht built using UNESCO-recognized techniques), it has a completely different style from the sleek Aqua Mare
Of the vessels I’ve yet to try, one that caught my eye was the 171-foot Scorpios , a two-masted sailing yacht that’s usually in the Adriatic. I love its richly textured interiors that wouldn’t feel out of place in a fashionable pied-àterre. Six plush cabins sleep 12 guests, who have the support of a crew of 10.
PRIVATE JETS
One of the most unforgettable trips I’ve ever done was with TCS World Travel, which runs private-jet itineraries. The ease of transferring from one destination to the next astonished me every time. I never got used to it until the end, when a business-class flight home felt like absolutely slumming it. Just as important, TCS gave us insider access to attractions in each destination. I have rarely felt more like a VIP. TCS is perhaps best-known for its Around the World journeys, which include extraordinary places that would ordinarily be hugely inconvenient to connect with commercial flights: Machu Picchu, Easter Island, Tahiti, the Great Barrier Reef, Angkor Wat and so on. The itineraries read like rosters of the world’s wonders. If you book a TCS World Travel trip with our Travel Office,
you’ll receive benefits like a complimentary pre- or post-trip overnight stay.
We also have relationships with various other companies that run private jet journeys. But we can also help you create your own customized itinerary using private flights. What better way to, say, hop from Provence to Porto Cervo to Paros?
UNIQUE AND SPECIALIZED EXPERIENCES
This last category is admittedly something of a catchall, but what a catchall! Here you can find information about our partnerships with particularly unique and exclusive travel providers. Space Perspective is a good example. Lifted by a balloon, its Spaceship Neptune will take eight passengers and a captain up to the edge of the atmosphere. Only about 600 people have ever been in space so far, so you might easily be among the first thousand.
Nor do many people make it all the way to the South Pole. We can arrange that, too, with the assistance of White Desert. Its two camps, both with six Polar Pods, are some of the only places nonscientists can stay overnight on land in Antarctica. Here you can walk across “ice waves” and visit colonies of penguins. But perhaps most exciting is the opportunity to visit the planet’s southernmost point. The bragging rights alone would make the trip worthwhile.
Visit our Exclusive Experiences page at AndrewHarper.com, and contact our Travel Office at 800-375-4685 for more information or to book your trip.
Spaceship Neptune
Echo camp, Antarctica
LAST WORD
ADVISORS’ EXPLORATIONS
I’ve worked with our Travel Office on countless undercover trips of my own, because it’s quite possible that they’ve been to a destination more recently than I. We chatted with a few of them who recently returned from exploratory trips to hear about what they learned.
Italy
“ I am a senior travel advisor specializing in Europe. Not long ago I had the opportunity to tour Milan and Lake Como. I was impressed by the service at the Four Seasons Milano, and I had the chance to have a look at the Park Hyatt Milan and the Excelsior Hotel Gallia, a Luxury Collection Hotel. My trip out to Lake Como included stays at Passalacqua and Il Sereno Hotel, a newer build on the other side of the lake, and I’d be happy to discuss the advantages of the different locations. For large groups, I can recommend an exclusive villa with private pools and a waterfall that runs through it.”
— Cindy Nelson, 30-plus years’ experience
Caribbean
“ The first time I traveled to the Caribbean was in the ’80s, and I continue to love it to this day — especially Cap Juluca, A Belmond Hotel in Anguilla. I can help arrange a boat excursion to an uninhabited
island near the property, and I have insider restaurant recommendations. On my most recent trip to the Caribbean, I also visited La Samanna, A Belmond Hotel on St. Martin. I have the expertise to help determine which Caribbean resort and even which room category is the best fit for you.”
— Rosa Miranovic, 20-plus years’ experience
Hawaii
“ I love Hawaii because of the wide variety of things to do on the islands, including hiking, water sports and volcano-trekking excursions. Andrew Harper has just added Kona Village, A Rosewood Resort to its list of recommended hotels, and I am excited to have just seen it firsthand, along with the Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection. Of course, I’m also very familiar with other top Hawaiian resorts. Wherever you stay, I can organize an incredible helicopter tour over the coast’s 2,500-foot waterfalls.”
— Carolyn Consalvo, 40 years’ experience
Argentina
“ On my most recent trip to Argentina, I gleaned some great insight into Buenos Aires. My team and I can arrange a customized private city tour, during which you’ll immerse yourself in the city’s history, discover public art displays and participate in wine tastings. Depending on the season, we can snag you prime seats to a polo match! Another experience that I highly recommend is a tango show followed by private lessons with the dancers. It’s much more memorable than just attending a performance.”
— Sarah Hershey, 12 years’ experience
England, Switzerland, France
“ I was born and raised in France, and I enjoy returning to Europe whenever I can. On my most recent trip back, I learned all about Oetker Collection hotels there. I know the rooms to book at The Lanesborough in London, so that you can see the King’s Life Guard passing by. After my stay at L’Apogée ski resort in Courchevel, I can confirm that the service (and skiing) is impeccable. I’d love to plan a sundowner experience with Champagne and s’mores beside a bonfire at the top of a mountain in Courchevel.”
— Aude-line Haxhi, six years’ experience
WILL TRAVEL FOR FOOD
The Hideaway Report has made its name with honest hotel evaluations, but my team and I relish reviewing restaurants just as much. In fact, I’m proud to say that we sometimes get to places ahead of the big guys. We endorsed SingleThread Farms in Sonoma a year and a half before it earned any Michelin stars (it now has three). Our recommendation of Essential by Christophe in New York was published in May 2023, six months before it received a star. In a place like Paris, we usually seek out what’s new and newsworthy, whether that’s a chic bistro that opened with a splash or a renovated gourmet bastion like La Tour d’Argent. Whereas in Oaxaca, a city that we’ve never covered, we simply looked for the best. I know that food is just as important to many Andrew Harper members as it is to us. That’s why we treat restaurants the same way we treat hotels. We research the options exhaustively before we travel, and when possible, we request advice from local friends and acquaintances. Only the most memorable meals make it into our lists of recommendations, which we revise annually. And of course, we always dine undercover and pay the full price.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Since the launch of the Hideaway Report in 1979, featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. Unless otherwise noted, Andrew Harper editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses.
Il Sereno Hotel, Lake Como, Italy