ANDREW HARPER’S
FEBRUARY 2025 SINCE 1979
TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES
BEACHES + FJORDS
IN THIS ISSUE There’s no better time for a Caribbean escape than February, when those of us in the northern U.S. have long since tired of gray skies and heavy coats. We realized that we haven’t reviewed any resorts on the dramatically scenic island of St. Lucia in more than 15 years. That indefensible gap in our coverage has now been rectified: We discovered two sybaritic
properties to recommend there. We also explored Norway’s two largest cities and tested an unforgettable golf-themed cruise around Scotland. Now is the time to start planning if you wish to visit either destination this summer. And look in this issue for new New York recommendations and a roundup of excitinglooking hotel openings in Italy.
Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort, St. Lucia
LUXURY IN ST. LUCIA
Beach and mountain resorts make for a beguiling combination
Ajewel of the Caribbean, St. Lucia stands out for its sensational scenery: serene beaches, emerald rainforests and, most dramatically, the Pitons, two iconic volcanic spires rising above the southwest coast. Long a haven for honeymooners, the island gained newfound global stature last year when sprinter Julien Alfred won the country’s first Olympic medal.
I decided it was time to determine whether St. Lucia had any accommodations worthy of its exceptional beauty. While the north side tempts with lively nightlife and shopping scenes, it also has no shortage of huge all-inclusive resorts. Since the south promised luxurious eco-conscious hotels, therapeutic volcanic mud baths and verdant botanical gardens, plus exceptional hiking and boating opportunities, that’s where my traveling companion and I headed.
Sugar Beach
Our first stop was Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort, a converted 18th-century sugar plantation situated on a magnificent secluded bay framed by the towering Pitons. The colonialinspired architecture reflects the resort’s long history. Congenial staff members greeted us with warm smiles and tropical cocktails and led us on a tour of the grand estate. The 130 accommodations, ranging from multibedroom hillside villas to beachside bungalows, feature elegant whiteon-white interiors with vaulted ceilings, dark hardwood floors and fourposter beds draped with gauzy voile.
We accessed our exceptionally private two-story Superior Luxury Sugar Mill Room via a leafy walkway. The uncluttered lodging was bright and airy with plenty of storage space. French doors led out to a broad rooftop terrace furnished with colorful oversize pots and a hot tub. Since our driver had told us that “it is always raining somewhere on St. Lucia” and that we should be prepared for
White sands at Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort
daily scattered showers, we soaked up the sun on our loungers before heading down through immaculately landscaped grounds to relax in the shade of a palapa on the beach.
Though the shores on this part of the island are usually composed of black volcanic rock, we stepped onto gorgeous white sand (Viceroy imported 7,500 tons of sand from Guyana). Our butler led us to a lounging pod with a thatched roof so wide that we were unaffected when it rained later that day. We snorkeled through crystal-clear waters and chatted while hanging off inflatable rings anchored in the sea.
Overall, our meals at the hotel were exceptional. Saltwood serves gourmet dishes including lobster thermidor and wagyu tenderloin at dinner, while more casual Bonté offers a familyfriendly party atmosphere with live music by the beach. My lunch
“ Though the shores on this part of the island are usually composed of black volcanic rock, we stepped onto gorgeous white sand.
there of dorado ceviche in a coconut-lime vinaigrette topped with coconut flakes was particularly outstanding.
We loved the convenience of staying in the Sugar Mill complex, which is within walking distance of the restaurants and beach. Request Room 5, for its private pool on an open terrace (less vegetation means fewer mosquitoes). While villas offer the most impressive views of the Pitons, they
NEWLY RECOMMENDED Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort RATING 94
LIKE
The pristine white-sand beach between the Pitons’ two peaks; the lavish breakfast buffet; the high-quality live music accompanying our meals; the hands-on chocolatemaking class.
DISLIKE
The absence of luggage racks; the terrace placement of our coffee machine and minibar.
GOOD TO KNOW
This family-friendly resort offers two kids’ clubs.
ROOM TO BOOK
The No. 5 Superior Luxury Sugar Mill lodging is my top pick. Beachfront Bungalows lack privacy, but No. 23 is the best of them. Cliffside villas offer the most spectacular views.
BENEFITS
A $100 resort credit; daily breakfast for two; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.
$$$; Soufrière
Ocean View Grand Luxury Villa, Sugar Beach
NEWLY RECOMMENDED
Jade Mountain RATING 94
LIKE
The eco-friendly, award-winning design; the majestic views of the Pitons.
DISLIKE
The awful unpaved road leading to the property; the poor service of our second majordomo; the closely spaced beach chairs.
GOOD TO KNOW
Water-taxi service from Sugar Beach resort and downtown Soufrière to the resort is highly recommended; the property has lots of stairs; children under 15 are not permitted.
ROOM TO BOOK
Galaxy JE3, Galaxy JE1 and Sun JR6 for their more private corner locations and superior views; avoid Sky suites, which lack pools.
BENEFITS
A $100 resort credit; daily breakfast for two; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.
$$$$; Soufrière
“
Nothing could have prepared us for the awe of that first vista.
are the farthest away, making shuttle service a necessity. Beachfront Bungalows are beautiful, but we could see straight into them when strolling along the bay.
Amenities include the Cocoa Mill, where the onstaff chocolatier hosted our immersive chocolate-making class, and a breathtaking spa tucked within the rainforest. The staff planned well-organized guided excursions to the mud baths at Sulphur Springs and the Caribbean’s only drive-in volcano.
Sugar Beach is unique among resorts on the island’s southwest side, as the other luxury hotels are surrounded by dense tropical foliage and lack doorstep access to the sand.
Jade Mountain
Though I never tire of lazy days on a beautiful beach, I looked forward to our next stop, Jade Mountain, which has won numerous awards as St. Lucia’s leading hideaway for honeymooners and the Caribbean’s top sustainable-tourism hotel. We were
unprepared for the drive to the property — the rocky, winding and steep dirt road positively rattled our brains. Ask the Travel Office to arrange a water taxi transfer from the colorful town of Soufrière instead.
Late Russian-Canadian architect Nick Troubetzkoy sought to integrate Jade Mountain into its natural landscape. I knew going in that 28 of the 29 rooms had just three walls, but it wasn’t until we stepped into our Sun Sanctuary room that I understood the concept. With no barrier between us and the sea and sky, we felt we could almost touch the Pitons from the edge of our in-room infinity pool. The minimally decorated interiors gave the stupefying views center stage. Nothing could have prepared us for the awe of that first vista.
At check-in, we received a phone that was “a direct link to our private majordomo.” Soon thereafter, we met Teclus, who sported a warm, eye-crinkling smile and a proactive attitude. Even after organizing a tour of the
Aerial view of resort and open-air Sun Sanctuary accommodation, Jade Mountain
Although Jade Mountain is one of the most scenically stupendous resorts that I have ever been to, it is not for everyone. The room’s exposure to the elements might be disconcerting, and the constant background hum of tree frogs and birds can frustrate light sleepers. Suspended walkways conveniently crisscross the property, but steep stairs often left us winded. Nonetheless, the otherworldly setting and top-notch amenities make this resort one of the best on the island.
Ladera Resort
hotel’s working farm, a chocolate tasting and a cooking class, he brainstormed other ways to help. Unfortunately, we saw him only twice before a different majordomo arrived. He proved insincere and careless, one day even setting up a room-service lunch with our back to the view!
Jade Mountain sits high above its lessexclusive sister property, Anse Chastanet, which has three dining options, including The Treehouse Restaurant for excellent local dishes, and a beach offering an array of water activities. Guests at Jade have access to all amenities at Anse, but that relationship is not reciprocal. We were glad not to have to share the dreamy stargazing deck during aperitifs or the private restaurant offering fine fusion cuisine and jaw dropping vistas.
We ended our St. Lucia sojourn at Ladera, perched on a volcanic ridgeline 1,100 feet above the sea. This hotel, which overlooks Sugar Beach and faces the imposing Pitons, pioneered the three-wall concept on the island. While the 37 rooms have the same sense of seamless indoor-outdoor living as those at Jade Mountain, the similarities stop there. Instead of contemporary architecture and design, Ladera has an old-fashioned décor of rustic handcrafted furniture and terra cotta tile floors.
Ladera Resort RATING 88
LIKE
The authentic St. Lucian cuisine; the joyful staff; the artfully constructed hot tubs; the well-organized sunsetsailing excursion; the housemade spiced rum.
DISLIKE
The old-fashioned décor; the tears in the mosquito netting; the limited opening hours of the rum bar.
GOOD TO KNOW Beach shuttles run Monday through Saturday to Sugar Beach, a snorkeler’s paradise, and to Malgretoute Beach, a little-known spot with calm waters; guests under 18 are not permitted.
ROOM TO BOOK
Set at the highest point of the resort, the Villa at Paradise Ridge comes with a large pool with a waterfall.
BENEFITS
A $100 resort credit; daily breakfast for two; welcome bottle of Champagne or wine; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.
$$$; Soufrière
We were upgraded to the twofloor Hilltop Dream Suite, situated at the farthest end of the resort. Although we loved to lounge in the wooden rockers fronting the bed, the real highlight was taking in the uninterrupted mountain scenes from the overwater swing set above our private heated pool. The room was comfortable and quiet, but I didn’t appreciate the dated design and signs of wear. Rips in the mosquito netting around the bed had been clumsily restitched, the saloon-style doors leading into the bath creaked, and outlets were few and far between.
Island Chocolate
S t. Vincent & the Grenadines
SOUFRIÈRE
Grenada
C ARIBBEAN SEA
S t. Luci a B arbado s
The estate enchants with beautiful tropical gardens and offers plenty of amenities, including a gym, a huge games room, an atmospheric speakeasy-style rum bar, an arts studio, a Caribbean restaurant and soaking tubs crafted from antique sugar pots. But the heavily varnished wood interiors, the pronounced musty smell throughout the property and the unstylish décor prevent me from wholeheartedly endorsing it.
Tr inidad & To ba go Venezuel a
An ideal trip to St. Lucia would combine oceanfront relaxation at Viceroy’s beach resort with time spent in the serenity of the hills. For the latter, Jade Mountain is the superior option. H
The cacao industry of St. Lucia dates back to the 1700s, and we had great fun exploring the local chocolate estates, making our own bars and truffles and tasting all manner of these delicious treats. Cacaopulp martini, anyone? Read about our three contrasting chocolate experiences in the digital version of the Hideaway Report , available at AndrewHarper.com. The Travel Office can help you make arrangements.
A SCOTTISH GOLF ODYSSEY
Sailing with Azamara around the birthplace of golf
Playing the traditional links of Scotland, known for incorporating old sheep pastures and natural sand dunes, is a dream for many golfers. PerryGolf, which has ample expertise in organizing such experiences, works with Azamara Cruises to offer a 12 night Scottish Intensive Voyage that combines stops along the country’s beautiful coastline and visits to its historic cities with the thrill of playing golf on its legendary courses. That sounded like a whole lot of fun, so I set my Andrew Harper travel advisor to work.
My companion and I joined the Azamara Quest in Oslo (read about our week in Norway on Page 8), and we made our way across the North Sea to our first stop in Edinburgh. The cruise continued on to Aberdeenshire, Inverness, the Orkney Islands and Liverpool before crossing the Irish Sea to Dublin. Stops in the Hebrides (Stornoway, Oban and Douglas) were sadly canceled due to high winds, remnants of Hurricane Ernesto.
The Quest holds 702 passengers, and apparently every cabin was occupied for this sailing. Most people were over 60, and we did not see any children on board. Despite the relatively large guest count, we hardly ever waited for anything, and it never felt crowded.
Under no circumstances reserve a cabin category lower than an admittedly compact
Veranda Plus, which has an interior of 175 square feet, plus a balcony. To be truly comfortable, book a suite. My favorites are the two Spa Suites on Deck 9. At 414 square feet (not including the veranda), they’re not the largest accommodations, but both offer a glass-enclosed soaking tub overlooking the ocean.
The spa and gym are right outside those suites’ doors. We paid a small surcharge for the Spa Package, which included access to the jetted pool at the bow of the ship, the adjacent locker rooms and the sauna. Few other guests did the same, so we had the wellness center almost entirely to ourselves. Unfortunately, only one of the pool’s jets worked, and the showers had little water pressure. And after our relaxing massages, both of our therapists mutated into salespeople, pitching upgrades and more services. My therapist was pushy to the end, insisting that I had said “yes” in the treatment room.
Though this ship is not at the level of a Silversea or Seabourn vessel, it has all the amenities one would expect, including multiple cozy lounges, a pool and several dining venues. We spent most of our leisure time in the Card Room on the 10th floor, which offered a bar with a view and (mostly) friendly trivia competitions. Our other favorite spot was the Mosaic Cafe on Deck 5, where we indulged in boozy coffee drinks and delectable baked goods. Most nights, we had dinner in the convivial main restaurant, Discoveries, where we enjoyed well-executed classic dishes like crab cakes with rémoulade and the signature filet mignon with black truffle
Azamara Quest
LIKE
The intimate public spaces; our cabin’s exceedingly comfortable bed; the friendly service; the exceptional golf package (including postround cocktails).
DISLIKE
The pushy wellness staff; the broken jets in the spa’s hot tub; the pools’ early closing time of 8 p.m.
GOOD TO KNOW
The “Premium” drink package just includes house wine and liquor. Upgrade to the “Ultimate” package for a better selection (it’s only $8 more a day). Tips are included, but excursions are not.
CABIN TO BOOK
A Spa Suite, for its glassenclosed soaking tub facing the ocean.
Call the Andrew Harper Travel Office to book your cruise at (800) 375-4685.
From top:
Azamara Quest and its Spa Suite; and ninth hole of Dumbarnie Links, Scotland
“
Despite the relatively large guest count, we hardly ever waited for anything, and it never felt crowded.
sauce. The steakhouse and the upscale Italian restaurant on Deck 11, available at an extra cost, are also commendable. At the latter, I fondly recall the branzino with risotto topped by shrimp, scallops and calamari and the dessert of Marsala-spiked ricotta sabayon.
But of course, the golf was the main draw. PerryGolf’s package featured five courses and included tee times, greens fees, caddies, lunches and transportation to and from the ship. The company also handled our golf bags, which were waiting for us at each course. We played Dumbarnie Links, Cruden Bay, Castle Stuart and a charming little golf club in the Orkney Islands before heading to England’s Royal Birkdale Golf Club, the location of the 2026 Open. Seemingly every hole we played would have been considered the highlight of a typical course, so impressive was the scenery. At each club, we received different gifts, including bottles of whisky, logoed towels, bag tags and money clips. Not least important, PerryGolf picked up postround cocktails: We mingled in the atmospheric club bars with the other golfers, heralding our good shots and commiserating about our bad ones. And at the end of the cruise, a rousing awards ceremony was held (I don’t mind saying that I got third place).
We had some sun while playing golf, but don’t count on it in Scotland. In Orkney, we experienced a few holes in heavy wind gusts and brief downpours. Most courses require walking — carts aren’t often allowed — making a certain level of physical fitness essential. If you’re not sure whether you’ll enjoy traditional linksstyle golf in Scotland, I suggest first trying Bandon Dunes, Oregon, as it approximates the experience. In fact, we had a lovely stay at Bandon a few weeks prior to the cruise to prepare ourselves, trying out the new 24-room Round Lake Lodge, which now offers the property’s best lodgings.
A few minor irritations aside, we thoroughly enjoyed the entire journey on and off the ship. I’m now dreaming of our next golf-themed cruise. The Mediterranean Islands and Japan itineraries look all but irresistible! H
HIDEAWAYS in BERGEN and OSLO
We make exciting discoveries (and a reassessment) in breathtaking Norway
Arriving a few days before a cruise is always wise — flight delays happen — and it’s a particular pleasure when the departure port is in a country as beautiful and friendly as Norway. We first flew to Bergen, on the west coast. Norway’s second-largest city is a gateway to aweinspiring fjords, but it is also a wonderful destination in its own right. Friendly shops and cafés on cobblestone streets in the old center cluster beneath lush green hills dotted with traditional red, yellow and white houses. Bergen’s harbor features a lively fish market, a draw for chefs who share a passion for local and sustainable cuisine, and the surrounding mountains provide magical hiking trails. The only problem has been a lack of recommendable hotels! At last, I found something.
Opus XVI
About 20 minutes by car from Bergen’s airport, the 65 room Opus XVI overlooks Vågsallmenningen Square, just steps from the harbor. With tall marble columns, ornate chandeliers and chic velvet furniture, the open-plan lobby contains the lounge, bar, restaurant and tiny front desk. On the way to our room, our escort pointed out a small in-house museum. Among the displays was a timeline of the life of Bergen born composer Edvard Grieg, an ancestor of the hotel’s owners. He served as their inspiration as they transformed a 19th-century bank building into this boutique hotel (its name honors Grieg’s celebrated Piano Concerto in A minor, Op. 16).
We immediately liked our Deluxe Room. A contemporary velvet settee sat at the foot of a king bed, and floortoceiling windows faced the cobbled square. The spacious marble-tiled bath had just one vanity but plenty of counter space and a walk-in rainfall shower. I did wish I’d booked a larger category, since we lacked enough space for our two sets of luggage. More
Swimming in the Bjørnefjorden, Solstrand Hotel & Bad, Os
troublesome, the historic building has only a central ventilation system that we couldn't adjust. Our bedroom became stuffy and hot in the unusually warm weather. Opening the windows helped, but noise from the square made it hard to fall asleep, as did the bed’s stiff sheets.
The highlight of our stay was the grand but welcoming restaurant. At dinner, an extensive and reasonably priced wine list had bottles from Italy, France and Napa Valley to pair with the Norwegian cuisine. Our enthusiastic Croatian server explained that livestock in Norway are entirely free-range, and beef is the country’s best product. He served the proof: A fillet from Jæren with turnip confit, onion purée and hay emulsion turned out to be the best steak of our entire trip. The next morning, we contentedly lingered over breakfast, ordering à la carte and browsing the buffet filled with delicious local pastries, breads, yogurts and cheeses.
On the same square as the Opus XVI is the 127room Bergen Børs Hotel, which I’d considered as an alternative. We stopped in for a nightcap at its Frescohallen bar, a vast room adorned with enormous 1920s frescoes depicting scenes of Bergen’s history. Its arched windows had fine views of the charming streets and the harbor, but the lively atmosphere made it difficult to get the staff’s attention. Afterward, we happily
“ The hotel’s name honors Grieg’s celebrated Piano Concerto in A minor, Op. 16.
returned to the much more peaceful Opus XVI, just a few yards away, where the service never faltered.
Solstrand Hotel & Bad
Since a few members sent us unfavorable reviews of Solstrand, we decided to reassess this 134-room spa resort fronting the shore of Bjørnefjorden, less than 20 miles from Bergen in Os. Our arrival was not encouraging — no one offered to assist with our luggage. But matters improved after we settled into our room.
Booking the right accommodation is the key to happiness here. On our last stay in 2017, we reserved a private and spacious Corner Room With Fjord View, and we did so again this time. We had two balconies: one with uninterrupted views of the water, islands and surrounding mountains, and a second overlooking the beautiful gardens and the hotel’s iconic yellow façade. The bath was rather small, but the heated floor and large spa showerhead provided compensation.
NEWLY RECOMMENDED
Opus XVI RATING 90
LIKE
The intimate atmosphere; the friendly restaurant service and excellent Norwegian fare; our room’s floor-to-ceiling windows.
DISLIKE
The inability to change the temperature in our room; the curtains that let light in at the floor; the lack of a spa or pool.
GOOD TO KNOW
It is an easy walk to fjord tours, the funicular, the fish market and shopping.
ROOM TO BOOK
The spacious Suite 312 –Colonialmajoren, for its sitting area and location farther from the square.
$$; Bergen
Looking toward the harbor from Bergen’s Vågsallmenningen square, with Bergen Børs Hotel at left and Opus XVI on the right. Interior: Peer Gynt Suite, Opus XVI
Each morning when we woke up, we could see the fjord from our comfortable king bed. Our reservation included all meals (various rate plans are available). The dinner menu offered just two starters and two main dishes from which to choose, plus a spread of desserts. The service was a bit clumsy, but the locally sourced food was very good both nights, notably the Arctic char with sweet potato purée and the beef tenderloin with pomegranate infused jus. At the buffetstyle breakfast, service wasn’t a problem: There was none. We even needed to make our own espresso drinks!
We spent our time at Solstrand exploring and relaxing. Whimsical paintings and sculptures are scattered throughout the hallways and garden. A unique cliff path along the fjord has steps that resemble an art installation. One afternoon, we indulged in wine and a delicious cheese tray in a hidden lounge that we had all to ourselves. On another, we took a canoe out for a spin. Besides its beautiful setting, the highlight of Solstrand is its wellness center, which encompasses a massive stainless-steel indoor pool, three types of saunas, a jetted therapy pool and a cold plunge. Accessed via a tunnel, a striking outdoor infinity pool is designed to appear as if it flows right into the fjord. For hardy sorts, a dock and ladder provide access to the chilly fjord itself (a warm shower stands nearby). Navigating the facility’s awkward stone steps was bothersome, as were the children that were sometimes screaming and
running about. In a separate spa, staff were friendly, and we enjoyed soothing massages. While Solstrand has its flaws, we greatly enjoyed its idyllic surroundings and strong sense of place. Keep its quirks in mind — the hotel is geared more for Europeans than Americans — and book a Corner Room With Fjord View or better.
Villa Inkognito
We took a short flight from Bergen to Oslo, a city that I’ve always enjoyed for its many cultural attractions, excellent seafood restaurants and unusual diversions, such as floating saunas. The dramatic Munch Museum building unveiled in 2021 and a small new hotel with an irresistible name encouraged me to book a couple of nights there before our cruise’s departure.
NORWEGIAN SEA
ÅLESUND
SK OD JE
HJØRUNDFJORD STORFJORD
ØY E GEIRANGER
REVISITED
Solstrand Hotel & Bad RATING 91
LIKE
The infinity pool on the fjord; the view from our suite; the seaside hiking path; the locally sourced meals.
DISLIKE
The absence of an inroom coffee maker; the lack of turndown service; our small bath; the stains on some hall carpets.
GOOD TO KNOW
The hotel is just a 30-minute taxi ride from Bergen; from Friday through Sunday, pools are adults-only after 6 p.m.
ROOM TO BOOK
A Corner Room With Fjord View, for its privacy and uninterrupted views.
BENEFITS
A $125 resort credit; daily $60 breakfast credit for two; and upgrade on arrival, subject to availability.
$; Os
NEWLY RECOMMENDED
Villa Inkognito RATING 94
LIKE
As an editor who travels incognito, I was of course intrigued by this hotel set in a converted 19th-century mansion on
GEIRANGERFJORD
The unbelievably comfortable bed; the extras in the room; our breakfasts with a private chef; the exceedingly helpful staff.
DISLIKE
The few loungers by Sommerro’s rooftop pool; the hard-to-find secret entrances.
GOOD TO KNOW
Villa guests have access to the spa and exclusive rooftop pool at Sommerro; the entire villa can be booked for up to 22 guests.
ROOM TO BOOK
We loved our Deluxe Room, but the suites are more spacious.
$$; Oslo
NORTH SEA
Indoor pool, Solstrand Hotel & Bad
Inkognitogata, a street near the Royal Palace. On arrival, the staff greeted us by name, gave us welcome drinks and took us on a tour of the property, which opened in April 2023. Villa guests also have privileges in the adjacent 231-room Sommerro, a sister hotel accessible through a secret door.
In addition to 11 accommodations, the villa has its own bar and kitchen. A chef cooked hot breakfasts at a time we chose the night before, accompanied by fresh fruit, yogurts and pastries. Guests can also relax in a formal dining room and a cozy librarylounge. Public and private rooms alike are meticulously decorated with antiques and artwork. The design incorporates art deco, Scandinavian, Italian and Japanese elements, along with plenty of velvet.
Our Deluxe Room was incredibly cozy. A great glass chandelier dangled above a lusciously soft oversize bed. Carved white molding adorned the high ceilings, and long plush purple blackout curtains framed the windows. Atop an intricately engraved bureau awaited Norwegian chocolates and two glasses of Champagne. The bath featured
an ornate cabinet with a single vanity and a capacious green-tiled shower (plus a Dyson hair dryer). Excellent soundproofing prevented any noise from the busy street below from penetrating our little sanctuary. We slept exceedingly well.
As villa occupants, we had access to a rooftop pool and sauna next door at Sommerro (certain Sommerro guests also have access). The secret elevator leading to it was so well hidden that we couldn’t find it — an employee took us up. We found that if we flashed our villa key, staff practically jumped to assist us.
The small stainless-steel pool overlooked the city’s fjord, but the space was a bit cramped for lounging. Sommerro also has a larger indoor pool in its extensive wellness center, a meticulously restored former public bath. We later dined at Sommerro’s rooftop restaurant, Tak, a Japanese-Norwegian fusion venue with splendid views over Oslo.
We regretted having to leave our stylish nest after just two nights. Villa Inkognito proved to be a wonderful new hideaway — a tranquil oasis in the heart of Norway’s capital. H
In late 2021, the Norwegian capital unveiled a grand new museum on
Bay dedicated to Norwegian artist Edvard Munch. The 13-story aluminum-clad structure itself is a work of art, and it has transformed the Oslo skyline. Inside are three versions of “The Scream,” but be sure to spend time with Munch’s lesser-known but equally arresting works. The restaurant on the 12th floor and a bar above afford extraordinary views over the fjord.
Villa Inkognito, with a private sky-bridge connection to the Sommerro hotel, and details of a Deluxe Room
Oslo Landmark
Bjørvika
MANHATTAN MAXIMALISM
We
review two new design-forward hotels, and only one makes the cut
Even as I write this article, I’m already plotting my return to New York City. I got us tickets to see the acclaimed revivals of “Sunset Boulevard” and “Gypsy,” and I look forward to going back for the Neue Galerie’s “Neue Sachlichkeit/ New Objectivity” exhibition, which runs February 20 to May 26.
For this most recent trip, two splashy hotel debuts were what drew me back. I can’t long resist the opening of a luxury hotel in Manhattan! My traveling companion and I tried one in the increasingly stylish NoMad neighborhood (north of Madison Square Park) and another in long-fashionable Tribeca. Stays in both also allowed us to explore a raft of new upscale Chinese restaurants.
The Fifth Avenue Hotel
As we walked into The Fifth Avenue Hotel’s small lobby, we heard a front desk clerk on the phone announce: “A package just came for [celebrity] — could you bring it up to her room?” Discretion may not be one of this hotel’s strengths, but it has numerous other charms. Part of the property, including the soaring Café Carmellini and some of the 153 guest rooms, occupies a handsome 19th century mansion on Fifth Avenue. The private home became an art gallery and later a bank, and now, with the addition of
a 23-story tower behind it, a wonderfully over-the-top hotel.
I immediately liked the lobby-lounge, with its comfortable seating and cabinets of curiosities. A great gold tapestry speckled with poppies and ladybugs hung behind the front desk, where, as we checked in, I noticed the room number of the celebrity written on a piece of paper. Since she opted for the 11th floor in the tower wing, I trust that the views from that level and above are quite satisfactory.
The historic building lacks sweeping views, but the accommodations there have high ceilings and character aplenty. The décor of our Mansion Suite displayed a lavish eclecticism. Persian-green walls bore elaborate moldings, and a wall of Palladian windows separated the bed from the living area. A chinoiserie cabinet, containing wellchosen complimentary beverages and snacks, faced a plush seating group illuminated by a chandelier dripping with multicolored glass. Murano light fixtures adorned the gleaming bath.
Shortly after the valet escorted us to this opulent sanctuary, a gracious butler arrived to offer welcome drinks and cool towels. He took some garments for pressing (four per stay were included in the rate the Travel Office booked) and returned with them in less than 20 minutes. He encouraged us to use a tablet
NEWLY RECOMMENDED
The Fifth Avenue Hotel
RATING 95
LIKE
The over-the-top design; the eye-catching contemporary art; the welcoming and helpful staff; our spacious and striking Mansion Suite.
DISLIKE
The problems with our room’s tablet; the failure of the hotel’s airconditioning one day.
GOOD TO KNOW
When we stayed, it wasn’t possible to add a gratuity to a room service bill, making it necessary to tip in cash; there is no spa.
ROOM TO BOOK
In warm weather, a Mansion Terrace Suite, for its outdoor space.
BENEFITS
A $100 dining credit; daily breakfast for two; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.
$$$; NoMad
“ Shortly after the valet escorted us to our suite, a gracious butler arrived to offer welcome drinks and cool towels.
to access newspapers and place room service orders, but it lacked The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal and gave us an error message when we tried to request breakfast. That said, after we phoned to place our order, it took only 11 minutes for a superlative spread to arrive, including a rich pistachio croissant that reportedly takes three days to make.
The hotel has no spa, but we enjoyed wellmixed craft cocktails in the clubby Portrait Bar, its woodpaneled walls crowded with framed faces, and a superlative Franco-Italian lunch in Café Carmellini, a theatrical space where tables in mezzanine balconies overlook three-tiered chandeliers and sapphire-hued banquettes.
and Café Carmellini
The extravagant personality of The Fifth Avenue Hotel won’t be to everyone’s taste, but I certainly checked out with regret.
Warren Street Hotel
The Warren Street Hotel grabbed travel magazine headlines when it opened in February 2024 as the latest venture from Firmdale Hotels, the hospitality group founded by designer Kit Kemp. We’ve reviewed and recommended a handful of Firmdale properties, notably the Crosby Street Hotel and The Whitby Hotel in New York and the Covent Garden Hotel in London. Each has a distinctive maximalist style, mixing bright colors and printed fabrics to create spaces that are fashionable yet comfortable.
So I had high hopes when we arrived at the 69 room Warren Street Hotel in Tribeca on a quiet weekday afternoon. “Can I help you?” the front desk attendant deadpanned. Considering that we were two people approaching a hotel desk with suitcases in tow, “Welcome to the Warren Street Hotel” would have been a more appropriate greeting. Well, I suppose New York isn’t famous for its friendliness.
A staff member showed us to our 400squarefoot Luxury Junior Suite with a king bed, a desk,
The Fifth Avenue Hotel’s original building and new tower, a Mansion Suite
Warren Street Hotel RATING 86
LIKE
The quiet location in an upscale downtown neighborhood; the buzzy bar.
DISLIKE
The bland décor that doesn’t match the photos online; the apathetic staff; the shockingly mediocre food.
GOOD TO KNOW
The two- or threebedroom Songbird Suites are ideal for families.
ROOM TO BOOK
One of the stylish and colorful suites at the Crosby Street Hotel, just a few blocks away in Soho.
BENEFITS
A $100 dining credit; daily breakfast for two; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.
$$$; Tribeca
a seating area with a small dining table and chairs and a wall of floorto ceiling windows. The large bath was itself bigger than some New York City hotel rooms I’ve stayed in. But disappointingly, the décor was much plainer than I’d expected. Our accommodation, decorated in various shades of beige, paled in comparison to the colorful photos online. There were a few nods to Kit Kemp’s signature style, but apart from the slightly unsettling dressmakers’ form lurking in the corner, it was utterly bland.
Nonetheless, we tried to make the most of our evening here, starting with a trip to the vibrant bar. (En route, we passed a hotel guest berating the front desk because his room, like ours, did not match the online photos.) By early evening, the bar had filled with stylish patrons, but the space quickly emptied out at dinnertime. That should have been our cue to dine elsewhere. We were shown to our corner table in the restaurant, where the food was just as drab as our accommodation. My dining companion’s thin, gray steak frites looked like something she had endured during her New England boarding school days, and our stuffed zucchini blossoms in romesco sauce tasted like they had been reheated in a microwave.
We had decent martinis and a comfortable night’s sleep, but in New York, it takes much more than that to make for an Andrew Harper recommended hotel. H
NOTABLE NEW CHINESE RESTAURANTS
Great hotels, Broadway shows, chic shopping and worldclass art museums are all well and good, but I enjoy New York’s food as much as anything. Often for these restaurant review columns, we focus on the most promising new openings. In Manhattan, that doesn’t narrow down the options nearly enough. Noticing a large number of upscale Chinese and Chinese-fusion debuts, I visited the five that looked most exciting. If you’re more in the mood for French or Italian, you can find all of our various restaurant recommendations at AndrewHarper.com.
53
Located beneath a wing of the Museum of Modern Art, I expected this sleek restaurant to be touristy, but the crowd had more of a power-lunch sensibility. The bar near the entrance could well have served as a set in Fritz Lang’s “Metropolis” — I immediately made a mental note to return for cocktails. Everything that we tried on the menu by Singapore-born chef Akmal Anuar was delicious. We opted for the $53 per-person set lunch. The sweet-savory salmon carpaccio had a delectable dash of sesame oil, and crystal dumplings contained buttery brunoised vegetables, but best was the black cod in a clay pot, with delicate fish atop rice with a crusted bottom. 53 West 53rd Street.
Figure Eight
One of a handful of New York restaurants combining Chinese and Lowcountry cuisines, this seafood-focused spot occupies a storefront in Greenwich Village. The charming space of tightly packed tables might have been romantic had it not been for the neighboring group of young women literally screaming at one another. I’d consider ignoring joyful shrieks if the food were superb, but dishes were hit and miss.
Our Luxury Junior Suite, Warren Street Hotel
Oysters with rose gelée and chile oil were aromatic and complex. But a $54 main course of langoustines and grits contained just three measly langoustine halves, and the spicy breading on the fried skate totally overwhelmed the fish. Figure Eight has possibilities, but I can’t wholeheartedly recommend it. 18 Cornelia Street.
Hutong
Glamorous Hutong in Midtown serves northern Chinese cuisine with a twist. At lunch, the large, high-ceilinged art deco dining room bustled with the expected business crowd, but we also saw a few solo diners and shopping-bag-laden fashionistas. The long menu highlights both traditional dim sum items and innovative dishes with decadent spins, like truffle bao and kung pao Ibérico pork. The wrappers of our delicious fried yu xiang dumplings had been mixed with charcoal, so they looked like glittering nuggets of onyx. Next came the kou shui chicken and asparagus salad, which deftly balanced spiciness with a sweet
vinegar. Our main dishes were not as carefully seasoned: The mapo tofu lacked enough spice to cut the sweetness, and the saltiness of a steamed cod fillet made my mouth pucker. We finished on a high note with rum-spiked black tea tiramisu. I’d happily come back here for a few dumplings or a nightcap and dessert in the hip lounge. 731 Lexington Avenue.
Nomad Tea Parlour
With a vintage-inspired décor that evokes old Hong Kong, Nomad Tea Parlour is a visual feast. But the charm of the restaurant wears off as soon as you’re seated. The space was so cacophonous that I could barely hear my dining companion over the shrill shouts of nearby diners. The restaurant would do well to invest in some sounddampening technology. Service was also a disappointment. Each person we interacted with was polite, but it seems our table never got assigned a server. At every step of the dining process, we had to flag somebody down to help. Most frustrating, the American-Chinese
comfort food classics were excellent. Unfortunately, that wasn’t enough to compensate for the restaurant’s other failings. 244 Fifth Avenue.
Yingtao
Things started off well here, with glasses of classy (and rare) Blanc de Meunier Champagne, and they only got better. Michelin-starred Yingtao’s entrance is unassuming, but its mostly black interior is stylish, the service is warm and attentive, and everything on the well-priced prix fixe menu is superb. Chef Bolun Yao “marries global culinary techniques with cherished Chinese memories” to great effect, as in a flavorful amuse-bouche of tuna tartare with green-garlic gelée, preserved kumquat and XO sauce. In Yao’s hands, the staple of congee became rich and risottolike, garnished with a soy-cured egg yolk. Yingtao is a pocket of culinary heaven in Hell’s Kitchen. 805 Ninth Avenue.
Clockwise from below: 53 dining room; a Dynasty Sour mocktail, Hutong; and tiramisu, Hutong
ITALIAN OPENINGS
Great things come in pairs, as someone might once have said, and four notable hotel brands are doubling down on Italy. Six Senses, Rocco Forte, Rosewood and Egnazia Ospitalità Italiana each have plans to open (or reopen) two luxury hotels there.
Six Senses Umbria and Milan
We currently recommend 10 hotels in Tuscany but only three properties in similarly beautiful Umbria. So the upcoming Six Senses Antognolla, centered on a 12th-century castle, offers a welcome addition, encompassing 71 guest rooms. The 1,335-acre property was originally scheduled to open in 2024, but the debut has now been pushed back to 2026.
In Milan, in an ideal location right across from the magnificent Pinacoteca di Brera art museum, Six Senses will unveil a stylishlooking property with an art deco flair. Fifteen of the 68 accommodations will be suites, and two of those will have private plunge pools. The rooftop “sky pool,” however, is open to all guests, as is a signature Six Senses spa.
Rocco Forte Milan and Sardinia
On the upscale shopping street of Via della Spiga, Rocco Forte will open its first Milan hotel, The Carlton, in 2025. Rocco Forte’s longtime design guru, Olga Polizzi, will work with Paolo Moschino and Philip Vergeylen to outfit the 70 accommodations, restaurant, bar and top-floor wellness center.
Alas, the opening date of Rocco Forte Le Palme on Sardinia’s Costa Smeralda, one of Europe’s most glamorous stretches
of coastline, has been delayed to 2026. The 64 rooms and suites will showcase “natural materials and local craftsmanship.” We’re especially excited about aperitivo hour at the panoramic rooftop bar.
Rosewood Milan and Venice
The Rosewood Milan’s opening date has also been pushed back to 2026 — perhaps we’ll visit for the Winter Olympics that February! Combining a palazzo and a 19th-century bank building, this 70-room property will have an enviable location roughly halfway between the recommended Bulgari and Four Seasons hotels. Amenities will include a garden, a spa and an indoor pool.
The long-recommended Bauer Il Palazzo on Venice’s Grand Canal has been closed since 2022. Rosewood and the property’s new owner, Mohari Hospitality, teamed up to give the hotel a much-needed renovation. It will reopen in 2025 with 110 accommodations, a spa and, on the roof, a garden and an outdoor pool.
Egnazia South Tyrol and Cortina
Egnazia Ospitalità Italiana manages an impressive roster of properties, including Borgo Egnazia in Puglia. Two incipient openings will host guests in the Dolomites. Castel Badia, scheduled to debut in 2025, occupies a 10th-century castle on a Val Pusteria hilltop. Plush guest rooms promise to offer memorable views of the river valley and easy access to the region’s myriad outdoor activities.
Egnazia also plans to unveil a 38-room property in Cortina, which will cohost the 2026 Winter Olympics with Milan. The reimagined 19th-century Ancora Hotel will add an “exclusive club” to long-standing amenities like a restaurant and a bar. We don’t recommend a hotel in Cortina at present, but that may change in the near future!
LAST WORD
GO IT ALONE
The Travel Office tells me that we’ve seen steadily increasing interest in solo journeys from our members. I don’t often mention it in the Hideaway Report , but I love striking off on my own, even when I’m traveling with a companion. When I’m alone, I find that people tend to feel more comfortable starting a conversation. Sometimes, a chance meeting leads to yearslong exchanges of travel stories and photos via WhatsApp or Facebook. Those who are new to solo forays might want to consider a vacation that has socializing built in. A small-ship cruise is an obvious choice, and we can help find one with a low single supplement. For example, Silversea has options that charge only a 25% supplement, Seabourn has some that charge just 10%, and Ponant has cruises with no single supplement at all. TCS World Travel puts together dazzling itineraries by private jet, which are ideal for meeting like-minded travelers. (Read an interview with a member about her TCS trip at AndrewHarper.com.) Safaris also work beautifully for individuals because you usually end up going on game drives with two to four other guests who often become friends. Traveling alone can be such fun. On the rare occasions when my spouse can’t join me, I have no problem saying, “I’m off — don’t forget to water the plants!”
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Since the launch of the Hideaway Report in 1979, featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. Unless otherwise noted, editors travel undercover as Andrew Harper members and pay for all lodging, meals and related expenses.
Castel Badia, South Tyrol