December 2013 Hideaway Report

DECEMBER 2013 | OUR 35TH YEAR

AndrewHarper.com

T r av e l i n g t h e wo r l d i n s e a r c h o f t ru ly e n c h a n t i n g p l ac e s

This Issue 1 D.C. Hotel Update

Ho t e l s , r e s tau r a n t s a n d m use u m s

3 Dining in D.C. 4 Aman Canal Grande 5 Venetian Wine Bars 6 Venice Cooking School 7 Fisher Island, Miami Articles from this month’s Hideaway Report, accompanied by lavish color photography, can be viewed online at our newly restyled and enhanced website, AndrewHarper.com.

IN t h e n e W s

Anguilla Reopening Some hotels are like old friends. Having spent so many happy times there, I feel as though they are woven into the fabric of my life. One such was Malliouhana in Anguilla.

When the resort closed in 2011, I felt profoundly sad. Fortunately, it seems that the story is going to have a happy ending. In February, the property was acquired by Chicagobased Adventurous Journeys Capital Partners, which also owns Auberge Resorts.

After a comprehensive renovation, Malliouhana will reopen as part of the Auberge portfolio in spring 2014. My next trip to Anguilla will be shortly thereafter. malliouhana. aubergeresorts.com

Revisiting the Grandeur of Washington, D.C. a mer ic a ns of a l l polit ic a l st r ipes t end to ta k e a jau ndiced v ie w of

Washington, D.C., these days, so it is easy to forget that it is a city of great beauty, with fine hotels, stellar restaurants, a vibrant arts scene and world-class museums. My recent trip was inspired chiefly by a desire to stay in the new and much-anticipated Capella hotel in Georgetown, but I was soon reminded how I invariably enjoy visits to the nation’s capital.

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lthough Washington has many attractive neighborhoods, Georgetown is the most storied, having been home to Thomas Jefferson, Francis Scott Key (who wrote the lyrics of the national anthem), the Kennedys prior to their move to the White House and countless other notables. With its rows of Federalist townhouses, streets canopied by stately old trees, and brick sidewalks with their eccentric undulations, Georgetown is an enclave unto itself.

When D.C. built its subway system in the 1970s and ’80s, the residents voted against a stop that they feared would lead to the area being overrun.

This decision turned out to be a classic example of the law of unexpected consequences, as it caused a slump in local business, and Georgetown quickly lost some of its luster. Of late, however, the area has acquired a new vibrancy, thanks to the lively Washington Harbour development on the Potomac; the ongoing renovation of the once-pacesetting Georgetown Park mall; and the thriving retail area at the intersection of Wisconsin Avenue and M Street. A number of appealing restaurants has also helped to make Georgetown a popular destination on weekends.

The 49-room Capella Washington, D.C., G eo r g e t ow n is convenient for the Kennedy Center, Rock Creek Park, and Georgetown and

George Washington universities. It stands in a restored red-brick warehouse whose industrial style blends smoothly with similar structures along the C&O Canal (a project in which George Washington himself was an investor). From the moment we stepped out of our cab, staff swirled about us,

Guest room at Capella Washington, D.C.

opening doors, dispatching luggage and ushering us through the gleaming marble and wood lobby into the Capella Living Room for registration. There, we found a discreet sanctuary separate from the hotel’s public areas, with high ceilings, tall bookcases, comfortable chairs and a glowing onyx fireplace.

A Personal Assistant checked us in. There are no clerks or concierges at the Capella. Instead, the

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email reservations@andrewharper.com.

AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email aharper@andrewharper.com.

PAs help in any way they can: arranging guides; securing restaurant reservations; booking tickets for hard-to-get performances. The system works very well, and we found “If we can, we will” to be the staff’s prevailing attitude.

Our PA escorted us to a Deluxe Room via a guests-only elevator, and there provided a clear and thorough briefing on the lighting and bedside controls. The décor was comfortable contemporary, and I found its mix of dark woods, cream walls and judiciously placed art to be extremely pleasing. The bed was made up with Pratesi linens; a small but well-supplied console came with an illy coffeemaker, an electric kettle and a mini-fridge well-stocked with water, milk and soft drinks; a plush club chair provided a fine spot for an afternoon read; and the work desk was equipped with ample plugs and connections, as well as with pencils, erasers, even a stapler. In the black marble bath, we found the same attention to detail. The lighting was perfect; we never had far to reach for towels, thanks to the many well-stocked racks; convenient hooks beside the sculptural freestanding limestone tub provided spots for hanging robes; and a generous supply of Acqua di Parma toiletries was much appreciated

t r av e l t i p s

D.C. Guide Washington, D.C., drew almost 18 million visitors last year, so planning a trip can be a challenge. To make things easier, I recommend the services of American Excursionist, a company that works in conjunction with the Harper Travel Office. Not only can it tailor an itinerary to your specific needs, but it also offers many fascinating programs.

These include curated tours of the Smithsonian, visits to the National Air and Space Museum with a former NASA astronaut, private tours of D.C. art galleries, and political briefings from influential lobbyists. You can even visit Woodrow Wilson’s private wine cellar, dating from Prohibition! americanexcursionist.com

c u lt u r e

Lesser-Known Museums Washington’s major museums are justly renowned, but several other collections are worth consideration. Below are three personal favorites.

THE PHILLIPS COLLECTION — In 1921, steel heir Duncan Phillips opened this museum in his family’s 1897 Georgian Revival home. The original holding of 237 works has grown to encompass more than 3,000, and the museum has expanded to two additional buildings. Strolling among the intimate galleries, you will find works by Matisse, Monet, Klee, Braque and Degas, among others. Perhaps the most notable canvas is Renoir’s sumptuous “Luncheon of the Boating Party.” 1600 21st Street, N.W. Tel. (202) 387-2151. phillipscollection.org

DUMBARTON OAKS — This beautiful house and surrounding gardens in Georgetown were once home to Foreign Service officer Robert Woods Bliss and his heiress wife, Mildred. They shared a passion for the art of cultures that were then little-known, and carefully collected works from both the Byzantine and pre-Columbian eras. In 1940, they donated their home and Byzantine collection to Harvard University. In 1963, they also donated the pre-Columbian collection, for which Philip Johnson designed a special pavilion. In 1944, a series of meetings at Dumbarton Oaks among China, the Soviet Union, the United Kingdom and the United States led to the founding of the United Nations.

1703 32nd Street, N.W. Tel. (202) 339-6401. doaks.org

NEWSEUM — This impressive museum opened in 2008, and through interactive displays, exhibitions and films, it explores the role of news and journalism throughout the history of the United States. On seven floors, you will find front pages from seminal moments in history, a map that delineates freedom of the press throughout the world, sobering portraits of slain journalists, a stunning gallery of Pulitzer Prize-winning photographs, sections of the Berlin Wall and a gallery that explores news coverage of 9/11. I thought I might spend an hour here, but I lingered for three and could have stayed longer.

555 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W. Tel. (888) 639-7386. newseum.org H

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(as was the small white leather travel kit containing extras for the journey home).

It is noticeable at Capella that in-house guests are accorded priority. At too many hotels nowadays, the restaurants, the spa and the public areas in general are overrun by people who are not staying there.

Personally, when paying close to $1,000 a night I find it infuriating to be told that it might be possible to squeeze me into the dining room, assuming that I don’t mind eating at 6 p.m. or 10 p.m. Here, both the Capella Living Room and the rooftop bar — with its panoramic views of the Potomac, the Watergate apartments and the elegant Kennedy Center — are reserved for residents and their invited guests, as is the indoor/outdoor raised infinity-edge pool.

Nearby, a compact fitness room affords sweeping views north to residential Georgetown.

Hotel guests and Georgetown residents mingle in The Rye Bar. Polished mahogany, subdued lighting and leather seats make this a congenial spot yearround, but in clement weather, the canal-side patio is most in demand. The adjacent Grill Room also offers canal views through a wall of glass. Chef Jakob Esko serves a seasonal farm-to-table menu on which fresh seafood and bone-in meats feature prominently.

We thoroughly enjoyed our meal, highlights of which were a plump Maryland crab cake, nicely matched with a 2011 King Estate Pinot Gris from the Willamette Valley, and a Virginia pork chop with crushed red potatoes, sweet baked peach, baby bok choy and smoked ham-hock jus, accompanied by a 2009 Miura Pinot Noir from Monterey.

Staying in Georgetown is a little like being on New York’s Upper East Side, a similarly gracious enclave just a short distance from the center of town. Overall, the Capella proved a comfortable and civilized hotel, where we felt very well cared for by attentive, friendly and accommodating staff.

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or those who wish to be close to the White House, I have long recommended The HayAdams, whose location on 16th Street just north of Lafayette Square can scarcely be bettered.

However, a serious alternative is now provided by Th e J efferso n , three blocks farther up 16th Street, which recently underwent a comprehensive renovation of its public areas and 96 guest rooms.

Within easy walking distance of lively Dupont Circle and bustling Farragut Square, The Jefferson occupies a pleasing, if not especially distinctive, Beaux Arts building that dates from 1923. But its interior impresses immediately. On entering the

lobby, I paused for a moment to survey the dramatic black-and-white checkerboard floor, the imposing iron gates leading to The Greenhouse restaurant, the intricate plaster moldings and the magnificent skylight rediscovered during the renovation. We checked in at one of two elegant desks backed by a serene mural, then proceeded to our room, escorted by a charming young woman who pointed out the original Thomas Jefferson documents on display.

Our Deluxe Room was snug but cozy, with wainscoting, an antique-style writing desk, a large closet, a jacket stand, custom carpeting and handsome fabrics that included toile depictions of Jefferson’s beloved Monticello. A warm palette, chiefly of taupe and white, combined with wellplaced lights to create an environment of charm and sophistication. Our bath was on the small side, with just a single vanity, but the roomy walk-in shower and a TV set in the mirror above the sink were both welcome, as were the Monticello Grove toiletries, made especially for The Jefferson. We also appreciated the Bose sound system with an iPod dock, free Wi-Fi and long-distance phone calls, and the complimentary shoe shine and pressing (one piece per person per day).

Downstairs, the Book Room, reserved exclusively for residents, offers an agreeable refuge, with warm woods, discreet lighting, well-stocked shelves, comfortable furniture and a fireplace. In the finedining restaurant, Plume, chef Chris Jakubiec offers an inventive menu of contemporary A charming American cuisine. young woman pointed out the original Thomas We relished dishes such as diver sea Jefferson documents scallops with fava on display. beans, chanterelles and Manila clams in a hazelnut reduction; and filet of Angus prime beef with a mousseline of truffled potatoes, bone marrow and Madeira jus. Both were complemented by sommelier Michael Scaffidi’s wine selections. We also enjoyed Quill, The Jefferson’s clubby bar, which has an outdoor terrace for fine weather. An intimate spa, added at the time of the renovations, completes the hotel’s amenities.

In general, I am fond of independent hotels such as The Jefferson. Not part of a chain or group, it has an individual personality. The aesthetic is distinctive, and the staff’s lines never seem scripted. Throughout our stay, we felt welcome and comfortable, and I recommend the property without hesitation. H

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Washington Restaurant Selection ONCE NOTABLE FOR ITS LACK OF good RESTAURANTS, Washington, D.C., is now worth visiting for its food alone. Here are my recent favorites.

EQUINOX — Just south of Farragut Square, Equinox is sophisticated but understated, with a plush inner dining room and a conservatory out front. Chef Todd Gray’s menu features ingredients from the Mid-Atlantic region. To start, we tried the warm gougères, puffy little balloons flavored with Gruyère and rosemary. Then I succumbed to my love of sardines and ordered the delicious “salad” made up of crisp little fish with flavorful greens. Best of all was the herb-crusted rack of lamb with a risotto-like tomato farro, pine nut-sherry jus and Parmesan. The wine list was well-assembled and the service engaging and friendly throughout. 818 Connecticut Avenue, N.W. Tel. (202) 331-8118. equinoxrestaurant.com FARMERS FISHERS BAKERS — Part of the elegant Washington Harbour complex on the Georgetown waterfront, this restaurant displays a dedication to local products. Its interior reflects an artisanal aesthetic: The chairs are handmade, and the impressive wood ceiling was installed by craftsmen from Canada. We found it a delightful place for lunch. I tried the rich butternut squash soup and continued with the chicken salad club. I look forward to returning for the steak frites with farmer’s whiskey sauce, which I am assured is excellent.

3000 K Street, N.W. Tel. (202) 298-8783. farmersfishersbakers.com

FIOLA — A D.C. lawyer friend told us to expect sightings of that exotic Washington fauna, the lobbyist, and, sure enough, as we arrived for dinner, a stretch limo duly pulled up, out of which poured K Street’s finest and their clients. They had come for the outstanding Italian food of chef Fabio Trabocchi. We began with the superb ahi tuna carpaccio with smoked caviar, roasted San Marzano tomatoes, olives dressed with yuzu and lemon, and fresh sorrel. We followed with two pastas: a pappardelle with a ragu of wild boar; and a dish of Maine lobster ravioli with ginger and chives. From the extensive wine list, we chose a 2011 Argiolas Vermentino Sardinian white that went well with both the tuna and the lobster ravioli, and a 2010 Castello di Neive Barbera d’Alba, a fine match for the pappardelle.

601 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W. Tel. (202) 628-2888. fioladc.com

NORA — Restaurants tend to be short-lived, but this bright exception has been humming along since 1979 under the direction of Nora Pouillon, an early proponent of local sourcing. The highlights from our long and enjoyable dinner were a delicious tart filled with balsamic figs, caramelized shallots, Grayson cheese and leeks; and a refined sakeglazed Alaska sablefish with shiitake mushrooms, scallions and baby bok choy in a gingermiso emulsion. We ended with a flawless blueberry-peach pie. 2132 Florida Avenue, N.W. Tel. (202) 462-5143. noras.com

THE SOURCE — This new restaurant, part of the Newseum complex, relies on creative East-West combinations reminiscent of an old favorite of mine: Wolfgang Puck’s Chinois on Main in Santa Monica. The downstairs bar and lounge suffers from that scourge of modern dining: excessive noise. Fortunately, the main restaurant upstairs is more subdued. The Asian fusion food is delicious, and we lingered over the menu trying to narrow down our selections. The star appetizer was “tiny dumplings” packed with pork belly, black vinegar, chili oil, ginger and cilantro. Lacquered Chinese duck with glazed Mission figs in a star anise-plum wine reduction proved an exceptional entrée. 575 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W. Tel. (202) 637-6100. wolfgangpuck.com H

HOTELS AT A GLANCE capella washington, d.c., georgetown — LI K E Exceptionally friendly and welcoming staff; lounges reserved for the exclusive use of guests. DISLI K E Deluxe Rooms are a little small for the price. GOOD TO K NOW Rooms on the east and north of the hotel have the best views and should be specifically requested. RATING A95 Superior king room, $595; deluxe room, $745; Georgetown room, $1,045. 1050 31st Street, N.W., washington, D.c. Tel. (202) 617-2400.

Capellahotels.com

The jefferson — LI K E Thoughtful touches such as the fresh lemonade in the lobby, which was most welcome on a hot day. DISLI K E The location is very convenient, but the setting is not especially inspiring. GOOD TO K NOW Rooms at the back of the hotel face another building, so are best avoided. RATING A94 Deluxe king room, $500; deluxe suite, $700. 1200 16th Street, N.W., washington, D.C. Tel. (202) 448-2300. Jeffersondc.com

A denotes a Harper-recommended hotel; more information is available at AndrewHarper.com December 2013 | hideaway report 3

cl a ssic r e v isi t ed

The Gritti Palace One of my favorite hotels in the world, The Gritti Palace, reopened this year following a 15-month, $50 million renovation.

Enjoying a perfect location at the entrance to Venice’s Grand Canal, the palazzo dates to 1475 and was converted into a hotel in 1895. It is now part of the Starwood Luxury Collection. Since I have long regretted Starwood’s heavy-handed renovation of the once-charming Europa & Regina, I was concerned for the fate of The Gritti, but I must say that the project has been a great success. American designer Chuck Chewning, who is director of the furniture and fabrics company Donghia, has respected the hotel’s aristocratic elegance by using exquisite Rubelli fabrics and Murano lighting fixtures. The property now has 82 rooms instead of the previous 91, plus a wonderful new library and several new individually decorated suites overlooking the Grand Canal. My favorites are those named for writers — Ernest Hemingway, British novelist Somerset Maugham and the Victorian art critic John Ruskin — although for sheer extravagance, there is nothing like the top-floor Redentore Terrazza Suite, which has a huge private terrace. The quality of the workmanship throughout the new Gritti is spectacular. Oh, and the Bellinis (Prosecco and fresh peach juice) served on the terrace overlooking the Grand Canal are just as irresistible as ever.

con t r a s t i ng v e n e t i a n ho t e l s

Aman Canal Grande: Venice Luxury Redefined ON A CLEAR , MOONLI T EVENING AS OUR WAT ER TA X I SLIPPED IN T O T HE GRAND CANAL ,

its driver turned to us and said, “E ora, una bella sorpresa per voi!” (“And now, a beautiful surprise for you!”) Since simply being in Venice is always a beautiful surprise, I wasn’t sure what he meant until we’d passed under the Rialto Bridge and slid toward an imposing palazzo, which looked like a huge lantern, with lights burning in the tall windows of its façade. The driver cut the motor as we approached the floating dock: “Il vostro albergo!” (“Your hotel!”)

Amazingly enough, the Palazzo Papadopoli really was our hotel, as it now houses the new 24room Am a n Ca n a l GRAN D E . Located in the central San Polo district and constructed during the second half of the 16th century, it is one of the most spectacular palazzi in Venice. But before the glamour of the occasion could fully sink in, two porters were helping us out of the boat, greeting us by name and escorting us through the formal entrance, the porta d’acqua. Inside, we found a lobby lined with marble busts and illuminated by a stern lamp from a 16th-century warship. Attendants offered warm facecloths and glasses of chilled Prosecco while we received a personal greeting from the delightful general manager, Olivia Richli.

Even though it was quite late, we certainly weren’t going to decline Richli’s offer of a tour before going to our room. In the elevator, she explained that the renovation had taken two years and that the palazzo’s current owner, Count Gilberto Arrivabene Valenti Gonzaga, still lives on the top floor with his wife, Bianca, and their five children.

Apparently, when the last member of the Coccina family — the original owners — died in 1718, the palazzo was purchased first by the Tiepolos and later, in 1864, by the Papadopolis, an immensely wealthy family from the Greek island of Corfu, who used it as their launching pad in Venetian society.

Arriving on the piano nobile, we were shown into the spectacular ballroom (now the Dining Room), a dazzling space with gilded mirrors, lavish moldings, glittering chandeliers, frescoes by the artist Cesare Rotta, and a balcony overlooking the Grand Canal.

Contemporary furnishings in Aman’s signature

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minimalist style added a low-key chic that improbably but successfully contrasted with the flamboyance of the baroque decoration. Two adjacent smaller dining rooms boasted ceiling frescoes by the 18thcentury Venetian master Giovanni Battista Tiepolo.

Taking the grand stone staircase, we moved up to the next floor. There, the regal Salon contained a concert grand piano, while the adjacent Library featured magnificent walnut bookcases and walls covered with 300-yearold Cordoba leather.

Two smaller Our tour concluded dining rooms w it h a glimpse of boasted frescoes one of the hotel’s five by the 18th-century signature suites, the Venetian master Alcova Tiepolo Suite, Giovanni Battista wh ich comes w it h Tiepolo. exquisite chinoiserie murals and a third Tiepolo ceiling. (Another highlight of the property is the Sansovino Stanza suite, which contains a fireplace designed by the great 16th-century sculptor and architect Jacopo d’Antonio Sansovino.)

The Aman Canal Grande offers four room categories, including the signature suites. Our Palazzo Stanza room was located in the adjacent Garden Building and was reached via a connecting hallway. We immediately felt at home in our spacious, high-ceilinged accommodations with their soothing contemporary décor of taupe walls, gauzy white shades, oak parquet floors and dark-stained wood furniture. The bed was lined with white leather and was made up with a duvet and fine Italian sheets.

A short hallway led to the bath, which was nearly

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the same size as our bedroom and came with a pair of square vanities on opposite walls, an extralong soaking tub and a separate shower. After an excellent and promptly served room service dinner, we watched a fascinating film about the renovation and turned in for the night.

After breakfast the following morning, we continued our exploration. The palazzo has not been reconfigured as a hotel and still possesses its original layout. There is no reception desk; the concierge is only recognizable by the crossed keys on his lapel; there are no signs; the guest room doors are fastened with 19th-century locks; and guests never have to sign for anything. Aman’s designer, Jean-Michel Gathy, chose to keep things simple. Lavish Venetian Rubelli silks may have been added to the walls of the bar and the dining

wine bars

Venetian Bacari Venetians often break their day for a snack of cicchetti (hors d’oeuvres) in one of the city’s bacari, or distinctive wine bars. Here are four of my favorites.

Alla Vedova — This romantic bacaro has been run by the same family for a century. I like to stand at the bar and to sip an ombra de vin while snacking on polpettine (deep-fried meatballs). Ramo Ca’ d’Oro, Cannaregio 3192.

Alla Ciurma — Tucked away near the Rialto market, this tiny bacaro is a real insider’s favorite. Don’t miss the tuna polpette (fish balls) or the musetto sausage with mustard. Calle Galeazza, San Polo 406.

Piano nobile Dining Room at the Aman Canal Grande

rooms, but most of the modern furniture is by B&B Italia. Having marveled again at the extraordinary public areas, we took the elevator to the palazzo’s roof terrace, from which there is a glorious view over the belfries, chimney pots and pantiled roofs of the city. When the wealthy Papadopoli brothers acquired the palazzo, they purchased two adjoining buildings, which were then razed to create space for a wonderful private garden. With the Grand Canal just over the fence, it provides a blissful setting in which to sip a coffee and to scan the newspaper before heading out for the day. Despite the awaiting glories of Venice, the Aman Canal Grande is a place in which you’re sorely tempted to linger, for, despite its aristocratic beauty, it is also profoundly tranquil and unexpectedly homey.

Returning to the hotel after a morning’s sightseeing, we enjoyed a Spritz al Bitter (white wine, Campari and club soda, with a twist of orange peel) in the bar, then wandered over to the nearby Trattoria Antiche Carampane, accompanied by a solicitous porter who was afraid we might get lost.

Cantinone gia’ Schiavi — Just opposite the gondola workshops on the San Trovaso canal, this popular place serves superb cicchetti, including cheese and fennel crostini, and smoked swordfish with Parmesan. Ponte San Trovaso, Dorsoduro 992.

Alla Rampa — This bacaro occupies the ground floor of a 17th-century palazzo and has been in business for more than a century. It opens at 4: 50 a.m. and is always full of locals chatting over Spritz al Bitter or Prosecco. Via Garibaldi, Castello 1135.

The Aman Canal Grande itself serves Italian, Thai and Japanese cuisine in a variety of venues. After lunch, we spent a blissfully lazy afternoon back at the hotel, indulging in the small spa, and still incredulous that we could wander around a Venetian palazzo as though it were our own.

Venice has numerous fine hotels — the Cipriani, The Gritti Palace, the Bauers Palladio and Ca’Sagredo, to name but four — but none is as sumptuous as the Aman Canal Grande, and none possesses the same congenial and relaxing atmosphere of a private residence. In part, this is because the original family is still much in evidence.

Countess Bianca is the Venice representative of the London auction house Christie’s, and personally escorts hotel guests on private art tours. (Thanks to the owners’ connections, guests can gain after-hours access to major sights, including the Doge’s Palace and the gardens of various privately owned palazzi.)

Of course, the Aman’s amenities are limited; there are certainly less expensive places to stay (though if cost is an important consideration, you may be in the wrong city entirely); and if you want a swimming pool, only the Cipriani will do. Overall, however, the Aman Canal Grande provides a truly unforgettable experience and is a stellar addition to the group’s already remarkable portfolio.

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ith prices in Venice rising vertiginously, I am always keen to find smaller, well-run properties that might appeal to those who cringe at the city’s eye-watering tariffs. This is why I decided to spend a night at the H otel Me tro p o le , a 67-room grande dame three bridges to the east of the Piazza San Marco on the busy Riva degli Schiavoni.

(Although this area offers wonderful “Canaletto” views across St. Mark’s Basin to the island of San Giorgio Maggiore and its famous 16th-century church, it is too crowded in summer to be worth your consideration. In my view, however, the whole of Venice is intolerable from June to September,

HOTELS AT A GLANCE aman canal grande — LI K E The sense of being a privileged guest in a private palazzo of scarcely believable grandeur. DISLI K E The expensive (€50) breakfast; slow Internet access; the eye-watering room rates. GOOD TO K NOW My favorite restaurant in Venice, Antiche Carampane, is just down the street. RATING A98 Palazzo bedroom, $1,340; ALCOVA TIEPOLO SUITE, $4,690.

CALLE TIEPOLO 1364, SESTIERE SAN POLO, VENICE. TEL. (39) 041-270-7333. amanresorts.COM

hotel metropole — LI K E The fly-in-amber Old World atmosphere; the elegant décor of antiques and rich fabrics; the lovely garden. DISLI K E The old-fashioned bath. GOOD TO K NOW The location is ideal for anyone attending the Venice Biennale art fair. RATING 89 DELUXE DOUBLE LAGOON VIEW, $575; JUNIOR SUITE LAGOON VIEW, $655. RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI 4149, VENICE. TEL. (39) 041-520-5044. HOTELMETROPOLE.COM

A denotes a Harper-recommended hotel; more information is available at AndrewHarper.com December 2013 | hideaway report 5

and should be avoided until the civic authorities summon the courage to do what everybody knows they eventually must: limit the number of daily visitors and giant cruise ships.) The Metropole is a favorite of gallery owners and artists who come to the famous Venice Biennale art show. And it also has an intriguing history: Vivaldi once gave music lessons on the premises; and Thomas Mann stayed there while writing his celebrated novella “Death in Venice.”

On arrival, we discovered atmospheric public spaces crammed with 18th-century antiques and ornately upholstered chairs and sofas. The Beggiato family, which owns the hotel, has put more than 2,000 antiques and curiosities on display, and this private collection, along with sumptuous Vivaldi once Fortuny and Bevilacqua gave music lessons fabrics, creates the on the premises; property’s particular and Thomas Mann charm. At check-in, the stayed there while welcome was notably writing his novella wa rm a nd cordia l.

‘Death in Venice.’

After passing through a hallway decorated with an elaborate collection of antique fans in vitrines, we reached our lagoon-view Junior Suite, which was elaborately done up with red brocade walls and decorated with framed etchings hung on broad strips of scarlet ribbon. Attractive in a decidedly Old World sort of way, the suite was smaller than I had expected, but the views were lovely, and it was quiet and comfortable. The snug bath was fitted with a single vanity and combination tub/shower, and it also had a window overlooking St. Mark’s Basin.

We enjoyed a drink in the cozy Oriental Bar, which offers 30 variants of the famous Venetian Spritz, before going out to dinner. (The hotel’s restaurant recently lost one of its two Michelin stars, but Venetians generally agree that this is no bad thing, as the property is considerably more tranquil in consequence.) Had we been staying during the summer, however, we might have dined alfresco in the hotel’s intimate gardens planted with citrus trees. Service throughout our stay was excellent — the waitresses who oversaw the hotel’s very good breakfast buffet were notably pleasant and efficient — and overall, this is a well-run, oldfashioned family-owned hotel of considerable charm.

It is not a modern luxury hotel, however, so anyone requiring a spa, gym or similar amenities will be happier elsewhere. H

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di v e r sions

Learning the Art of Venetian Cuisine One of the liveliest and most enjoyable days we’ve ever spent in Venice began when we met Countess Enrica Rocca beneath the Rialto Bridge on a balmy autumn morning. We then embarked on a food market tour, the prelude to a full day of tuition in the subtleties of Venetian cooking. A warm and friendly woman with a passion for the distinctive food of her native city, Rocca is a graduate of the famous Lausanne Hotel School. Completely fluent in English, she lived in Cape Town and London before returning home to launch a business from her family’s magnificent palazzo. As she guided us through the stands of the Rialto market — where she is on first-name terms with most of the vendors — she pointed out seasonal delicacies such as purple artichokes and baby fennel from the garden island of Sant’Erasmo, and discussed the vast array of seafood from the Venetian Lagoon. Rocca is a spontaneous cook and never has a menu in mind until she sees what is for sale in the market that day. On this particular morning, she filled her basket with squid, tiny clams, arugula, tomatoes, garlic and parsley. We then retreated to a nearby bacaro, or Venetian wine bar, to discuss the culinary possibilities. Back in the loft-like apartment of her family’s palazzo, we assembled in her open teaching kitchen.

First, she showed us how to clean the squid, which we then grilled to garnish a salad of arugula and tomatoes. Next, she taught us how to make a classic spaghetti alle vongole.

Finally, we sat down to lunch with our fellow students — a charming young couple from Boston and two delightful English ladies — and remained at the table conversing until it was nearly time to start thinking about dinner. This course offers a wonderful insider’s take on Venice, and I cannot recommend it too highly. enricarocca.IT H

Venice Dining Suggestions Since Venice is surrounded by a vast lagoon, it is no surprise that seafood, including prawns, squid and clams, takes pride of place on the menus of its more distinguished restaurants.

Trattoria Antiche Carampane — Tucked away in the back streets of the San Polo district, this superb seafood restaurant is a favorite of Venetians and in-the-know visitors alike. Start with the succulent baby clams cooked in white wine and olive oil and sprinkled with freshly grated Parmesan, and don’t miss the tagliolini with granseola (spider crab), a house speciality. It also serves an outstanding fritto misto of prawns, squid and vegetables, and a hearty dish of cuttlefish cooked in its own ink and served with white polenta.

The wine list is excellent. San Polo 1911. Tel. (39) 041-524-0165. antichecarampane.com Osteria Alle Testiere — Since there are only eight tables at this popular little osteria, book before you travel to Venice. Choose the second service at dinner for more relaxed dining, and expect dishes such as grilled razor shell clams, spaghetti alle vongole and John Dory with sautéed mushrooms. Calle del Mondo Novo, CASTELLO 5801. Tel. (39) 041-522-7220. osterialletestiere.it

Osteria Anice Stellato — By shrewdly modernizing classic Venetian dishes and adding a few favorites from other Italian regions to the menu, the kitchen here has turned a simple dining room into one of the most popular restaurants in the off-the-beaten track Cannaregio quarter. Try the risotto with shellfish, and the superb fritto misto of shrimp, fish and vegetables. Fondamenta de la Sensa, Cannaregio 3272. Tel. (39) 041-720744. osterianicestellato.com

Ristorante Quadri — Given its location on the tourist-infested Piazza San Marco, this excellent contemporary Italian restaurant is a welcome surprise. The two elegant dining rooms, lit with Murano chandeliers, overlook the great square. It is a deliciously romantic experience to dine here on dishes such as seafood ravioli with baby clams, risotto topped with caviar, and steamed lobster on crushed potatoes with fresh herbs.

Gracious service and an outstanding wine list. Piazza San Marco 120. Tel. (39) 041-522-2105. ristorantequadri.it H

a se r e n e a n d pr i v i l e ge d e nc l av e

Fisher Island: Miami Sanctuary Renewed T h e F ish e r Isl a n d f e r ry l e av e s f rom a d o c k a f e w h u n dr e d ya r d s f rom m i a m i ’ s

cruise ship terminal and just a short drive from the madding crowds of South Beach. It takes eight minutes to make the crossing and to offload its passengers in a parallel universe.

The island’s 216 verdant acres are an enclave of almost surreal calm, from which Miami’s cityscape of glass-and-steel towers seems little more than a gigantic theatrical backdrop.

The island’s story began back in 1925, when William K. Vanderbilt II traded a 250-foot yacht in exchange for seven undeveloped acres, then the property of local real estate magnate Carl Fisher. (Legend has it that Fisher instigated the deal and proposed to Vanderbilt an exchange: “My island for your boat.”) On the southern shore, Vanderbilt constructed a stone mansion in a Spanish Renaissance style, intended to serve as his family’s winter retreat. Nearby, he also built three substantial cottages to accommodate his numerous guests.

When Vanderbilt died in 1944, his widow sold the island, which changed hands a number of times before finally becoming a club in 1987. Today, Fisher Island is primarily an affluent residential community, with 722 condominiums contained within six-story, turreted tile-roofed structures, a third of whose owners live on the island full time.

Vanderbilt’s estate, however, now forms a 41-room boutique hotel, comprising the 1920s cottages — with one, two and three bedrooms, respectively — plus Mediterranean-style villas with private courtyards and Jacuzzis, and so-called “guest house suites.”

The Vanderbilt Mansion itself houses dining venues and a ballroom.

Having driven off the ferry, we pulled into the visitors’ parking lot, where we were greeted politely by a staff member with a golf cart. This would be our transport for the next few days, as cars are allowed no farther than the dockside. Although much of the shoreline has been developed, Fisher Island still seemed overwhelmingly green and peaceful, owing to a nine-hole Pete Dye golf course that takes up at least a third of its area. A short trip brought us to the resort complex, where the small reception is housed on the ground floor of one of the villas.

There, we were greeted with unusual warmth and plied with Perrier-Jouët champagne.

Fisher Island Club is coming to the end of a $60 million renovation program, with significant sums having been lavished on the hotel rooms and the mansion. This was immediately apparent in our

second-floor suite, which was in pristine condition — indeed, it seemed entirely plausible that we were the first people to stay there since its refurbishment.

Both the bedroom and the sitting room were spacious

Vanderbilt Mansion, Fisher Island

and pleasingly furnished in a traditional style. The classic color scheme of French blue, beige and white, plus a honey-colored marble floor, provided an environment that was both cool and restful. In the living room, we found a comfortable sofa, wingback armchairs, a small wet bar and a compact work area for those unable to withstand the siren call of the office. The bedroom and small dressing area were well-lit and were provided with ample hanging space.

And from a small wrought-iron balcony, there was a seductive view down an avenue of palms to the glinting waters of a marina. The modern marble bath provided twin vanities, a soaking tub and

disa ppoin tmen t

A Spa to Avoid Canyon Ranch near Tucson has long been regarded as America’s premier spa resort, so I expected its Miami sibling to be similar. I was disabused of this notion on arrival. The property is located on a rather obscure stretch of Collins Avenue. Having been kept waiting for 10 minutes in the noisy lobby, we were finally summoned by a receptionist who proved comically disorganized.

Our suite itself was spacious but soulless.

We opted for lunch beside the odd oval pool. This was virtually inedible, so we ordered two glasses of white wine, only to be told that the bar was out of stock. Areas near the pool and beach were scruffy and in dire need of a broom. At breakfast, we waited an eternity for poached eggs, only for the waiter to spill coffee all over them. At times, the service was so bad that laughter seemed more appropriate than indignation. True, the resort has impressive spa facilities, but I strongly recommend that you pursue your quest for physical refinement elsewhere.

HOTELS AT A GLANCE fisher island club — LI K E Atmosphere of serenity and seclusion; exceptionally friendly and obliging staff. DISLI K E The attitude of some homeowners, who clearly regard hotel guests as an unnecessary inconvenience. GOOD TO K NOW There are several ferries, and the service runs 24 hours a day, so it is extremely easy to dine or shop in Miami Beach. RATING A95 one-bedroom GUEST HOUSE SUITE, $950; ONE-BEDROOM COURTYARD VILLA, $1,050; THREEBEDROOM ROSEMARY’S COTTAGE, $2,250. ONE FISHER ISLAND DRIVE, FISHER ISLAND. TEL. (305) 535-6000. FISHERISLANDCLUB.COM

canyon ranch — LI K E Our spacious suite offered a well-equipped bath and a kitchenette.

DISLI K E Noisy and unattractive public areas; poor service. GOOD TO K NOW It is only 13 miles to the Miami airport if you want to make a quick getaway. RATING 83 one-bedroom OCEAN VIEW SUITE, FROM $835. 6801 COLLINS AVENUE, MIAMI BEACH. TEL. (305) 514-7000.

CANYONRANCH.COM

A denotes a Harper-recommended hotel; more information is available at AndrewHarper.com December 2013 | hideaway report 7

Bulgari toiletries. The only thing it conspicuously lacked — presumably because of the constraints of space in an old building — was a separate walk-in shower. Otherwise, I could find nothing to criticize; on the contrary, I was extremely content and ready to settle in for an extended stay.

Having unpacked, we wandered down to the outer marina — one of two — to appraise the super-yachts. (Fisher Island’s 100-plus slips can accommodate craft of up to 250 feet in length.)

There, the clear water also provided a sanctuary for a somnolent group of manatees.

Nearby, the Beach Club comprises a number of airy pavilions overlooking a stretch of fine white sand, backed by calm sea suitable for swimming.

(The best beach on t he isla nd, which It became our ex tend s a long it s habit to drive around entire eastern shorethe island to watch line, is for the exclusive for dolphins cresting use of homeowners; the light swells of this can be annoying Biscayne Bay. on weekdays, when it is frequently empty.) The Beach Club’s attractive casual restaurant offers a lengthy menu of American and Mediterranean classics, with an alternative provided by an adjacent sushi bar. During our stay, the Vanderbilt Mansion was still in the final stages of renovation, so although we were given a guided tour, its restaurants were closed (as was its sizeable saltwater swimming pool, a facility available to hotel guests). Instead, we dined at Porto Cervo, an Italian

“

restaurant overlooking the inner marina that offered excellent if predictable food and friendly service.

Other amenities on Fisher Island include a 20,000-square-foot spa; the aforementioned Pete Dye golf course, widely considered one of the best nine-hole layouts in the United States; and a superb tennis center with two grass, two hard and 14 HarTru clay courts. In addition to Boris Becker, who once owned a home on the island, the complex has been used regularly as a practice facility by the likes of Andre Agassi, Andy Roddick, Anna Kournikova and the Bryan brothers.

After playing a set of tennis in the cool of the early morning, it became our habit to drive around the island, a leisurely 20-minute trip, to admire the views, to savor the breeze off the ocean and to watch for dolphins, which were regularly to be seen cresting the light swells of Biscayne Bay. Invariably, we would also stop in at the aviary, home to a small flock of flamingos and a number of resplendent (and exceptionally tame) macaws. It was on these morning excursions that we became most acutely aware of the island’s profound tranquility. Fisher Island feels calm and extremely safe, and despite the conspicuous wealth of many of its residents and guests, its atmosphere is unpretentious and surprisingly low-key. Given these qualities, it could provide an idyllic location for a family or multigenerational holiday. Certainly, I cannot think of another resort within sight of a major city and 30 minutes’ drive from an international airport that provides such a blissful place to unwind. H

F rom t h e T r av e l Of f ic e

Valuable Benefits From The Peninsula Hotels peninsula properties have always been popular with Andrew Harper subscribers, as evidenced by the most recent Reader Survey results. Your two favorite city hotels in the world were The Peninsula Beverly Hills and The Peninsula Chicago, and Peninsulas occupied three additional slots on the list. The Peninsula hotels has duly taken notice and chosen the Travel Office to participate in the new Pen Club, an honor offered to just 50 travel companies. As a Pen Club member, the Travel Office can now offer additional benefits to subscribers at every Peninsula hotel around the world, including flexible check-in and checkout times, priority placement on waiting lists, upgrades on arrival if available, upgraded in-room amenities, full breakfast for two people daily and a complimentary 30-minute extension to any 50-minute body or facial treatment. Best of all, there is no need to choose between the benefits already contracted by the Travel Office and those offered by the Pen Club. You will receive both.

For personalized trip-planning assistance, contact our travel consultants, who have experienced many recommended properties firsthand. They are passionate about creating unforgettable journeys for our subscribers. Call (800) 375-4685.

Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2013 Andrew Harper LLC, CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

l a s t wor d

Hotels à la Mode Fashion hotels have always left me cold, so after a particularly disagreeable experience at the W hotel in Istanbul, I resolved to eschew the genre entirely. However, it now looks as though I may have to change my mind. In October, one of my favorite properties in the Caribbean, the Hotel Saint-Barth Isle de France, was acquired by LVMH, the French luxury goods group. It seems that the company is intent on becoming a major player in the hospitality business. LVMH’s Cheval Blanc hotel opened in Courchevel in 2011, while November 2013 saw the debut of Cheval Blanc Randheli in the Maldives, a private-island resort designed by Jean-Michel Gathy, a talented architect known for his work with Amanresorts. Three other Cheval Blanc properties are planned. In addition, the LVMH-owned company Bulgari now has hotels in Europe and Asia. I recently stayed at the Milan and London properties. Both were exceptionally comfortable and hospitable, as well as stylish. So it seems I am a follower of fashion after all!

Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Illustrator Melissa Colson

see this issue in color Articles from this month’s Hideaway Report, accompanied by lavish color photography, can be viewed online at our newly restyled and enhanced website, AndrewHarper.com.