deconstruction magazine

De

ConS truction

DECEMBER 2023 ISSUE 1

YHOJI YAMAMOTO COMME DES GARÇONS MARTIN MARGIELA

MAGAZINE Origins of De Cons tructiOn in Fashion CONStructio ns

FrOM Runway to REtail Wereable ART ReDEFiNing deconsTruct ed

Inside

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ORIGINS OF DECONSTRUCTION IN FASHION

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CONSTRUCTIONS

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WEARABLE ART: DECODING THE INTRICACIES OF COMME DES GARÇONS SHIRTS

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DECONSTRUCTED SHIRTS REDEFINING HIGHFASHION NORMS

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RUNWAY HIGHLIGHTS THROUGH THE YEARS

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FROM RUNWAY TO RETAIL

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DECONSTRUCTING STYLE “THE COMMERCIAL APPEAL OF UNRAVELED ELEGANCE”

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REDIFINING DECONSTRUCTED

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WHEN PHILOSOPHY MEETS FASHION

Origins of DECONSTRUCTION in fashion

By Kalina Sikorska 3

Deconstruction is originally a method of critical analysis of philosophical and literary language which explores the internal workings of language, conceptual systems, and the quality of meaning (Oxford English Dictionary). It is a philosophy widely associated to French philosopher, Jacques Derrida, which aims to question meanings, systems and beliefs in order to present their contraditction, which would destabilise the idea of universal truth (1960).

Although a practice based in academia, the concept soon began to be adopted in wider culture, including the arts, music, as well as in design.

Harold Koda’s article, “Rei Kawakubo and the Aesthetic of Poverty” (1985), was the first text to outline the basic principles of the movement in fashion. Later, Alison Gill in his text, "Deconstruction Fashion: The

Making of Unfinished, Decomposing and Re-Assembled Clothes" (1998), more clearly defined deconstruction in fashion, explaining it as a term to describe

‘garments on a runway that are unfinished,, coming apart, recycled, transparent or grunge.

Deconstructivism in fashion emerged in the 80s and was led by designers, Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo for Comme Des Garçons, Karl Lagerfeld, Ann Demeulemeester and Dries van Noten.

With the nature of deconstruction centering around inversion, ‘Amy Spindler announced "deconstructionism" as a rebellion against the 1980s, the undoing of fashion as we have known it, or the "coming

apart" of fashion's heritage, as it moved into the last decade of the twentieth century (1993).’ (Gill) The popularity of the new style was considered to be born out of the desire to merge fashion with intellectualism, which further moved the industry into a new direction.

The movement particularly worked well with design, as the practice involved quite literally questioning the construction of garments, buildings or spaces, which produced completely new and original silhouettes and shapes.

The subversion of traditions in pattern making and cutting alongside principles of philosophy, brought a seemingly untouchable phenomenon into a largely material field. Deconstructionism in fashion marked a new era for the industry; it marked the modernisation of fashion and placed it in wider culture.

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Cons

truct

S ion

BY XINCI XIE

VOLUME

COLLARS collar stand, round collar, Collarless, Detachable collar, Neckties, Cravats, ties...

Wide shape, very wide shape, comfortable shape, long, tailored...

司耀本山 detachable cuffs, regular cuffs, rounded cuffs, two button cuffs, single button cuffs...

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Yoh -ji Ya-ma-mo-to

CUFFS OVERSLEEVELESS

YOKE Single pleat yoke, double pleats yoke,

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Construction -co

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ru

BY XINCI XIE

cti

on

SAMPLE

Yoh ji Yamamoto

山本耀司

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WEARABLE ART: DECODING THE INTRICACIES OF COMME DES GARÇONS SHIRTS “For something to be beautiful, it doesn’t have to be pretty”

Rei Kawakubo

By Brock Sullivan

In the ever-evolving world of fashion, where creativity knows no bounds, Comme des Garçons stands as a beacon of avant-garde design and innovation. Renowned for pushing boundaries and challenging conventional norms, Comme des Garçons has left an indelible mark on the fashion landscape. One of the label's most iconic creations is the deconstructed shirt, a garment that shows the brand's commitment to breaking free from traditional constraints.

Comme des Garçons, under the visionary leadership of Rei Kawakubo, has always embraced the idea of deconstruction as a means of creating something entirely new. The deconstructed shirt is a prime example of this ethos.

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Taking a staple wardrobe piece and dismantling it in unconventional ways, Comme des Garçons transforms the ordinary into the extraordinary.

The deconstructed shirts from Comme des Garçons often feature asymmetrical cuts, irregular stitching, and unexpected fabric combinations. Kawakubo's design philosophy challenges the status quo, inviting wearers to question preconceived notions of what a shirt should look like. Each piece is a work of art, blurring the lines between fashion and conceptual expression.

Comme des Garçons is known for its fearless experimentation with materials. Deconstructed shirts from the brand might incorporate a

variety of fabrics, from classic cotton to more unexpected choices like transparent plastics or metallics. This innovative use of materials adds an element of surprise to each piece, creating garments that are as much about texture and tactility as they are about form.

Unlike traditional shirts with polished finishes and clean lines, Comme des Garçons deconstructed shirts embrace imperfection. Raw edges, frayed hems, and intentionally unfinished details become part of the garment's charm. This celebration of imperfection challenges conventional notions of beauty, encouraging wearers to embrace the uniqueness of each piece.

As seen in the images provided we take a look at CDG Shirt Fall 2020 show. This is a perfect example of Rei Kawaubo’s iconic deconstruction.

In a nutshell, every year, the brand continues to “wow” the world with new and unseen looks, which is the pinnical of deconstruction

The show featured mostly button up shirts and perfectly laid the blueprint for brands in the future.

For example, in image three, we see straps used to create the illusion that the shirt needs to be held together; an interesting take on deconstruction.

CDG SHIRT FALL 2020 IMAGE 1 While Comme des Garçons deconstructed shirts may seem unconventional, they are surprisingly versatile in style.

Whether paired with tailored trousers for a juxtaposition of formal and casual, or worn with distressed denim for a rebellious edge, these shirts can effortlessly transition between different looks.

The inherent eclecticism of the design allows wearers to express their individuality with ease.

Comme des Garçons deconstructed shirts have made waves not only in the fashion world but also in popular culture.

Worn by celebrities, influencers, and fashion enthusiasts alike, these shirts have become a symbol of bold, boundary-pushing style.

The brand's impact extends beyond the runway, influencing the way people perceive and engage with fashion on a global scale.

CDG SHIRT FALL 2020 IMAGE 3

CDG SHIRT FALL 2020 IMAGE 2 Image two shows traditional deconstruction by using multiple shirts to create one. Image one takes a different turn, using a second shirt to lean more towards a skirt look. The idea is to deconstruct or reconstruct a shirt to make something unconventional, and CDG is no stranger to it.

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DECONSTRUCTED SHIRTS REDEFINING HIGH-FASHION NORMS

By Brock Sullivan and Ana Paula Schneider

2 CDG SPRING 1995

1 MAISON MARGIELA FALL 2018

The sleeves have become a part of the bodice Cuffs removed and replaced with a hem as if it was the opening on the bodice

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The only thing left is the construction of the shirt Highlighting the integral parts of a garment and removing the filler The collar is also hollowed

3 JUUN.J SPRING 2018 This is a combination of a tshirt and a dress shirt The shirt has also been turned inside out It is tied up to give the illusion of increased deconstruction

4 BLINDNESS SEOUL SPRING 2018 Shoulders removed to create a deconstructed blouse illusion Collar isolated (common in deconstruction) Hem replaced with a knot Frayed and gathered edges (popularized by Rey Kawakubo)

5 MONSE SPRING/SUMMER 2014 Shirt deconstructed to for a skirt like look Hem removed Cuffs formed with abstract geometrical shapes

6 RAF SIMONS FALL 2005 Cut off sleeves is a forof deconstruction when done on a dress shirt Popularised deconstruction in streetwear

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MONSE SPRING 2017 READY-TOWEAR

Zac Posen SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WE

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PALMER HARDING FALL 2018 READY-TO-WEAR

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER SPRING 2012 READY-TO-WEAR

JACQUE SPRING READY-TO

PUSHBUTTON SEOUL FALL 2016

ANREALAGE SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WEAR

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JACQUEMUS SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WEAR

Nw BLINDNESS SEOUL SPRING 2018

COPERNI SPRING 2021 READY-TO-WEAR

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JACQUEMUS FALL 2022 READY-TO-WEAR

MAISON MARGIELA FALL 2018 MENSWEAR

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HOOD BY AIR SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WEAR

JACQUEMUS SPRING 2023 READY-TO-WEAR

EMUS G 2021 O-WEAR

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PALMER HARDING FALL 2018 READY-TO-WEAR

DONNA KARAN SPRING 2010 READY-TO-WEAR

JOSEPH SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WEAR

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER SPRING 2017 READY-TO-WEAR

HOOD BY AIR SPRING 2017 READY-TO-WEAR 12

Ted Dis Con sec

sTructs

By Brock Sullivan

THE SOUL OF DECONSTRUCTION A SHORT STORY OF IMAGES

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From RuNway

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tO

ReTail

By Sofia Van Den Outenaar

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DECONSTRUCTINGSTYLE: “THECOMMERCIALAPPEALOF UNRAVELEDELEGANCE”

By Sofia Van Den Outenaar

But, does e v E r y It is not a surprise that once top designers showcase their latest masterpieces on the runways, many pick up the trends intending to dominate mainstream fashion, by translating avant-garde designs into wearable pieces sold in the market for the everyday consumer.

When talking about deconstructed garments, Japan has been a leading force, having designers such as Yhohi Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Kunihiko Morinaga portraying this fashion force in their collections, and Chitose Abe, making the deconstruction of clothes her signature style.

Western Designers, like Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten and Martin Margiela have also followed this philosophy, creating deconstructed garments, with the aim of questioning, challenge, destabilize and even contradict the traditional perception of beauty in fashion. All this to rethink the link between forms, textures and functionality in clothing.

trend debuted on the runway actually makes a sTrong appearance

in

stores?

The commercial aspect of deconstructed garments, specially deconstructed shirts, is an intriguing one, since to the public eye, there is not an obvious, prominent presence in the market.

Nowadays, few brands such as Anrealage, Sacai, Ann Demeulemeester, Loewe, and JW Anderson are directly selling deconstructed shirts in their online stores, whereas retail stores, like COS, KM By Lange are selling deconstructed shirts by independent small designers, and SVRN, Luisaviaroma, Glamood, are reselling deconstructed designs by Comme des Garçons, Sacai and Ann Demeulemeester.

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ANREALAGE “BALLSHIRT” €201.90

COS “CHEMISEDÉSTRUCTURÉE OVERSIZE” €99

SACAI “CHIFFONMIXCOTTON POPLINSHIRT” €725

KM BYLANGUE DANUSHKA “BLACK DECONSTRUCTED SHIRT” €225

When looking into the commercial world of deconstructed shirts, it seems that this fashion philosophy presented in runways hasn’t translated with force into stores.

And, this could be because of different factors. One of them is that it seems there is a lack of distinction when talking about this particular garments, since they are often mistaken with asymmetrical styles, due to the use of asymmetrical cuts in the deconstructed designs.

On the other side, the majority of the deconstructed shirts sold in the market tend to fall on a higher-end,

By Sofia Van Den Outenaar

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER “NELLYDROPPEDSHOULDER SHIRTPOPELINE” €860

SVRN COMMEDESGARÇONS “DECONSTRUCTED SHIRTINBLACK” €225

where prices range from €99 to €950+, meaning that the purchasing power of the everyday consumer falls short for these type of products.

Along with this, follows the idea that the limited number of consumers could also be the result of the conventional standards of beauty that are strongly rooted. Consumers, specially from western countries are yet to be more open and experimental with their fashion choices, specifically when talking about shapes and styles that are meant to be imperfect, unfinished and even deteriorated looking.

LOEWE “DECONSTRUCTEDSHIRT INSTRIPEDCOTTON” €950

LUISAVIAROMA SACAI “ROBECHEMISECOURTEEN POPELINEDECOTONETSOIE” €975

JW ANDERSON “DECONSTRUCTEDDRAPE SHIRT” €550

GLAMOOD “COTTON-POPLIN DECONSTRUCTED NELLYSHIRT” €288

Consequently, when there is a lack of purchases, there is also a lack of production. This means that competitive manufacturers are not encouraged to mass-produce, which not only lowers the quality of the product but also the price, which could make deconstructed shirt more affordable and available for consumers. And, this could perhaps move people to be more experimental with their clothing, turning deconstructed shirts into a piece found in many wardrobes around the world.

Don’t You think so?

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Redefining deconstructION

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ＩＮＦＤＡＲＫ Taiwanese deconstruct shirt

by Pin-Yu Yu

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by Pin-Yu Yu

INF is a cultural and artistic brand, not only INF produces fashion garments and accessories, we also carry culture as foundation for creativity.

Reviving Taiwan's traditional culture and finishing with urban touch is our vocation. Through flawless lines built by experienced skills we designed garments that transform between shapes, Ex: Bag into trouser, Suit into dress by mechanical structure. Appeal to the world not to buy many but buy for the best, to respond to the call of zero-waste fashion.

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Specialize in structure, cutting and pattern, through flawless lines built by experiences skills and combining the element of Taiwanese culture by Pin-Yu Yu

Deconstructed Deconstruct JuteJute BagBag shirt shirt Combining the the Combining culture of of culture Taiwan Taiwan with with traditional traditional wholesale wholesale bagsbags and to tulle to and tulle a unique createcreate a unique and elegant and elegant visual effect. visual effect.

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More than Just Trends but Cultural Representative

by Pin-Yu Yu

Deconstructed Jute Bag shirt

Deconstruct Ban-Doh shirt

Combining the culture of Taiwan with traditional wholesale bags and tulle to create a unique and elegant visual effect.

Inspiration from traditional element of early Ban-Doh. Deconstruct and artfully combined the plastic belt and color to dot-matrix arrangement.

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JOURNALISTS Kalina Sikorska Xinci Xie Brock Sullivan Ana Paula Schneider Sofia Van Den Outenaar Pin-Yu Yu

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