AMICA SKIN: Winter Issue 2023

AMICA SKIN

WINTER 2023

WINTER SKINCARE

The survival guide to take care of your skin this season

WHITE-WASHING

Is tiktok white-washing the skincare industry?

ISSUE 01

6-9 GUT HEALTH: How to eat your way to good skin 10-13 WHITE WASHING: How social media is whitewashing the skincare industry 14-17 DELHI-COUS: The skincare brand that is embracing tradition 20-23 ANIMAL TESTING: TESTING The truth about the industry 26-29 ANTI-AGEING: Has this obsession become societies norm?

32-34 PACKAGING: 36-37 REVIEW: I tried The Ordinary’s products for two months and this happened...

38-39 MENS SKINCARE: Should we see gender in skincare?

44-45 WINTER SKINCARE: Survival kit

CONTENTS

4-5 EDITORS NOTE

50-51 SKINCARE QUIZ

MEET THE TEAM Lauren sub-editor skin type: Combination Lauren is 21 and in third year at Leeds Beckett studying journalism. She enjoys trying new food places and loves a self-care routine. For Lauren, nothing beats a bubble bath with candles and a face mask. She enjoys the ordinary and the inky list for serums like the caffeine solution and salicylic acid for acne. She also found that washing pillow cases more regularly is good for acne. Cruelty free is important to Lauren as she loves animals and feels there are other testing options that are efficient and don’t involve any harm to animals.

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Sophia Creative director Skin type – combination Sophia is a 20 year-old third-year student that is studying Journalism. She focuses on hydrating skincare attempting to acheive dewy skin. Sophia loves a self-care Sunday, enjoying trying diferent skincare trends to find her ultimate routine. Her favourite product is Skin Food by Weleda keeping the summer glow throughout all seasons. As a media buff she believes representation within the industry is majorally important and that we use ethical brands to benefit the planet.

Kiera Editor Skin type – combination/oily Kiera is 23 and in her third year at Leeds Beckett studying journalism. She is a big skincare fanatic and you can often find her in boots scanning the shelves for the next best thing. An ideal day for her is sitting with her cats, reading a book with a face mask. Shes passionate about the enviroment so aims to find solutions to her skin concerns using ethicsl brands and homemade remedies.

Bex Skin type – combination Bex is a 21-year-old journalism student at Leeds Beckett. She prefers a simple skincare routine to coincide with her hectic life. Preferring to get a bang for her buck - she gravitates towards the own brand section of Boots and Superdrug. With one of her favourites being the Superdrug vitamin E moisturiser for those frosty wintery days that dry her skin out. Conscious about her impact on the environment, she also loves any brand that ditches plastic for something more sustainable.

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EDITORS NOTE Over lockdown, with all the extra time to scroll on TikTok, I found myself watching video after video of viral skincare reviews, advice on skincare routines, and step by step guides on using natural ingredients to improve skin. As someone who has suffered with acne since I was a teenager, I became obsessed with finding the right products to help my skin, even filling a whole notebook with the research I found (bit excessive I know). I realised I never really considered the ingredients I was putting on my skin, and if the brands I was using were as eco-friendly and natural as they said.

What is natural skincare? If you’re interested in finding out, then this magazine is for you. Postlockdown and the rise of TikTok has definitely brought a new age of skincare, with more people prioritising the ethical and a DIY approach over the mass mainstream brands. But, in a sea of marketing jargon (natural, eco, clean, sustainable etc.) it’s hard to know what natural skincare actually is. That is why we wanted to create a magazine to cut through the nonsense and shed light on the real issues in the skincare world.

2023 has seen trends steering away from the West, with a growing influence from Asian cultures.

We take a look at how influencers and mainstream brands have jumped on the bandwagon, and the contribution this has made to cultural appropriation in the industry (pages 10-13). We spoke to viral Indian skincare brand Delhicious Body (pages 14-16), who use ayurvedic principals when creating their vegan, all-natural products. Gut health is on the rise as a way to improve your skin. Lauren Arkell spoke to nutritionist Becca Cohen about the link between the gut and your skin, and the science is there to back it (pages 6-8). Bex Thornberry takes a deep dive into the environmental implications of product packaging and harmful chemicals on pages 32-34 Is our generation obsessed with anti-ageing? Sophia Moody has the answers on pages 24-29.

We have done the research for you and filled our magazine with product suggestions and reviews (check out Sophia Moody’s review of The Ordinary products on page 38) and it wouldn’t be a winter issue without a tailored skincare guide to help tackle the effects of cold weather. All the brands we have mentioned are certified cruelty-free and tick all our boxes when it comes to being truly ethical.

We hope you enjoy.

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how

GUT HEALTH

U YO

UR WAY TO

O CAN EAT Y D SKIN

GOO

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TikTok is known for its trends but 2023 especially has seen a particular interest in gut health with the hashtag #guttok has around 728 million views on the app. Some trends are on the right track but it’s important not to believe everything you see.

By Lauren Arkell

The Science

ing both inside and out.

first step would be to try to minimise the Thought that the two are linked there is scientific The amount of alcohol you consume. evidence to back the saying you are what you eat.

First, what is the gut?

The gut is the passageway of the digestive system leading from well the top to the bottom.

There are similarities between our gut and skin which may help to explain why they are connected.

Both have protective barriers which work to protect the body by helping to fight against germs and harmful bacteria.

The gut uses its lining to protect the germs from entering the blood stream whereas the skin is essentially the barrier between the inside of our bodies and the environment preventing these germs from getting in.

Alcohol is poisonous to the gut because in large amounts, alcohol can overwhelm the gut and liver and lead to damage. Our bodies find it difficult to digest, which can then ferment inside the gut causing bloating, gas and some other not so glamorous symptoms.

So, to ensure a healthy gut you might need to think about cutting down on boozy weekends and cocktails with the girls.

Of course, it goes without saying that this doesn’t mean you need to swear sobriety but the saying everything in moderation comes to mind.

Through the immune system, the skin and the gut communicate and work together to try and eliminate any potential disease or infection.

Also, now seems like a good time to mention different skin types and skin diversity. Everyone’s skin is unique, like your fingerprint, and everyone’s bodies react to external stimuli differently.

Nutritionist and Personal Trainer Becca Cohen confirms that the gut does have an influence on skin.

If you are struggling with a specific skin condition you should always speak to your dermatologist.

Cohen says: “Nutrition or diet, stress, sleep, medications, supplements, genetics are all factors to name a few which can have a direct impact on our gut health which in turn can have an impact on our skin.”

Food to avoid for a healthier gut Research shows that some skin conditions or problems like spots or dryness have been linked with an inflamed gut. So, when thinking of foods to avoid, consider which foods might cause inflammation. photo credit: Lauren Arkell She says: “Acne, just one of many common skin conditions, can be result of a gut imbalance, but there are lots of ways we can look to restore this equilibrium.”

Processed foods can cause gut inflammation due to high sugar content and unhealthy fats, for example: cheese, bread, savoury snacks, such as crisps, pies and pasties, and some meat.

I know what you’re thinking, it’s all the good stuff

Lifestyle So, if your gut condition does affect your skin how can you treat your gut and ensure that you are glow7

but it is important to stress that the message here is not to diet for good skin and never eat cake again because honestly that would just be cruel. You can use this as a guide and just a reminder to be wary of what you put in your body.

Carbohydrates aren’t great for the gut as they are digested quickly and can cause blood sugar spikes, which can lead to gut problems like SIBO, which is bad bacteria causinghavoc in the small intestine.

you can get in eight your skin will definitely thank you for it- those Stanley cup dupes on TikTok would be perfect for getting your water intake up.

Water helps maintain elasticity which can reduce wrinkles and soft lines and helps with PH balance and acne, along with scores of other benefits.

You may also want to consider including a probiotic supplement in your diet. Probiotics contain good or healthy bacteria which is beneficial for overall Cohen confirms: “It’s not health and can build up “It’s not about cutting all those food about cutting all those immunity against germs food groups out but con- groups out but considering a more in the gut. Include sidering a more sources of prebiotics moderate intake and opting for good moderate intake and within your diet too opting for good sources sources of bacteria in your diet along- which you can think of of bacteria in your diet as directly feeding the side.” alongside.” good bacteria in the gut (apples, bananas, garlic, Good bacteria can have flaxseeds and oats are a positive effect on our overall health through aiding all good examples). vitamin absorption and production, reducing inflammation, regulating the immune system and The gut and skin are not the only interrelated orreducing the number of bad bacteria in the gut. gans in the body and there is also a gut-brain-axis explaining the link between the two. The human Try to eat as many varieties of vegetables such as carbody is a well-oiled machine that is constantly rots, kale and spinach, to reap the benefits of as many communicating with its parts. There is more than different strains of good bacteria for your gut, the just the gut that has an influence on our skin but recommended amount is 30 (for the week). taking care of your gut health is just one way of improving it. The best practice for our bodies is to stay If you want your skin to glow the key is hydration. hydrated and make healthier lifestyle choices. By Drinking water is basically drinking moisturiser for doing this you’re not only on your way to beautiful, your skin and can add extra hydration from the inside. glass-like, healthy skin but ensuring that you are giving your body the There is conflicting advice for exactly how much water treatment and care it deserves. you should be drinking on a daily basis, but the minimum should be at least six glasses of water a day but if

photo credit: Lauren Arkell 8

photo credit: Sophia Moody

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Cultural Appro the skin care i How far has “white-washing” gone in the industry? With the rise of TikTok and influencers, cultural issue in skin care.

By Kiera Wilcox

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ropriation in indusrty appropriatuon has become a big

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photo credit: Sophia Moody

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photo credit: Sophia Moody

If you are big into your natural skincare like I am, chances are you’ve seen a hack or two on TikTok that you can do yourself at home. Whether that’s making your own turmeric face mask to increase brightness, hair-oiling for hair growth and nourishment, or shea butter for dry skin, we have all tried them at least once. And don’t get me wrong, who doesn’t love a good hack. But have you ever considered where these so-called “hacks” originate from?

Have you heard of Ayurvedic skincare, which influences many of the rituals mentioned?

Hair Oiling In the past few years, hair oiling especially has grown in popularity for its hair growth properties. The hashtag hair oiling now has 1.2B views on TikTok, with videos and influencers telling the dos and don’ts and hair oiling recipes and hacks. Take a look at any beauty or skincare brand now and you will see a new hair oil being released.

The concept of hair oiling goes back almost 5,000 years and remains a prominent beauty ritual within South Asia today, having been passed down from generations of White-washing in the skincare industry is not a new women to their children. Kezia Selvakumar was born in problem. It’s no secret that western brands have been “borrowing” practises and ingredients from other cultures Coimbatore, a city in South India. She has been oiling her hair as part of her culture since she was young. and showing little to no appreciation of their origins.

However, in recent years, the appropriation of other cultures in the industry has only grown. From the rise of “My mum has always oiled our hair while growing up,” TikTok giving a platform to white influencers populariz- Selvakumar says. “She usually asks us to oil our hair ing hair-oiling and turmeric masks, to white-owned, mass everyday as it has many benefits including reducing the heat in the body and conditioning the hair. I use a production brands hopping on the bandwagon, cultural mixture of oil prepared by my mum. It has way too many appropriation in the industry is at an all-time high. ingredients for me to prepare it by myself, but she makes and sends me small bottles for use when I travel.”

Cynthia Johnson wrote in a report Diversity and Beauty 2022: “The Asian-Pacific Beauty industry was valued at She adds: “She boils aloe vera, fenugreek, curry leaves, $163.92 billion in 2020 due to the “skincare at home” drumstick leaves, thulasi leaves, garlic, neem leaves, hidynamic of the COVID-19 pandemic. Even though the biscus leaves, hibiscus flowers, gooseberry, small oninnovation was effective, respect is still lacking toward ion, vetiver, black cumin, henna powder, rosemary our peers.” leaves, coconut oil, olive oil, castor oil, mustard oil, ses-

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ame oil and pumpkin seed oil. My great grandma had used coconut oil for her hair and both my mum and grandma have used just curry leaf oil for their hair.”

The "Clean Girl" The “clean girl aesthetic” emerged in 2022 and has only grown in popularity since then. It typically refers to girls who want to look “effortlessly put together” and can be shown through the simple, yet classic style of their clothes, plain gold jewellery, little-to-no makeup and a slicked back bun.

Although this style at first glance doesn’t seem problematic, it is commonly associated and accepted when seen on a white woman and has been popularised by mainly white celebrities and influencers such as Molly Mae and Hailey Bieber. The aesthetic ignores the influence from Black, Hispanic and Asian ethnicities, which further perpetuates the euro-centric standard of beauty placed on women today.

Appreciation vs Appropriation This is not to say that brands and women not belonging to the culture in which these practices originate from can’t use them, or that it should be frowned upon. Influencers and brands could go from appropriation to appreciation by simply acknowledging the cultures that have inspired their products or techniques.

Selvakumar says that while there are some videos that show appreciation of where the rituals come from, many of these influencers and brands fail to show any respect or credit as to where they got their recipes and techniques from.

“Over the last few years especially with the spread of social media, certain traditional practises have reached people across the world,” she says. “It’s great that more people are learning about such techniques, but I believe they should give credit to the people to whom such practises originated from rather than utilising it as another money-making plan and claiming it to be their own.”

“I stopped oiling my hair since I was little A frequent comment on videos of hair oiling and the clean girl aes- because I got bullied thetic are women from Asian culSo how can mainstream brands for it. I was called and influencers make the move tures stating that they were bullied in school for having oil in their to show appreciation? Well, for hair by girls who are now doing it dirty and greasy from starters, influencers using TikTok have access to a huge platform themselves because it is “trendy”. the girls who are now which they could and should use for the better.

A TikTok user commented: “I being called clean for stopped oiling my hair since I was “Companies and individuals have little because I got bullied for it. I it. ” the power to talk to people about was called dirty and greasy from the girls who are now being called clean for it.”

various cultural practises people follow and actual origins rather than having everyone assume it to be something it is not.” says Selvakumar.

Brands have a huge responsibility to acknowledge what ingredients, recipes or practises they borrow from other cultures, and can in turn inform and educate consumers. An example of this being put into practise is Lush's Ethical Buying policy, where they aim to purchase their materials directly from local farmers and suppliers from all different countries, to learn the true story behind each ingredient.

This is a small step, but an imperative one if we want to embrace other cultures and show them the respect they deserve.

CULTURAL photo credit: Kiera Wilcox 13

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photo credit: Dehli-cous

Delhicious: The Indian Skincare brand embracing tradition

CULTURAL

Not only is this a brand that uses all-natural derived ingredients, but it also showcases and celebrates where their ingredients and rituals originate from.

By Kiera Wilcox

Delhicious Body is an all-natu-

ral Indian inspired skincare brand.

Co-founder Zara Saleem started the brand with her husband Zak back in 2016 after developing a skin condition during her pregnancy. When Saleem was growing up, she used natural remedies passed down from her grandmother to her mother as solutions to different problems. After being prescribed steroids by doctors, she used her South-Asian roots and knowledge of Ayurvedic principals to formulate an Indian tea body scrub which “transformed” her skin and influenced her to start her own brand.

Saleem says: “I am from a Pakistani Indian background so my culture influences everything about the business. The branding, the ingredients we use, where we source them from.

Ayurvedic principles are all about using natural remedies to solve issues and it is ingrained in us as children.

We grew up oiling our hair and scalp before it became trendy to do it.”

Saleem isn’t afraid to call out the current climate of whitewashing, whether that is from social media influencers or western brands adopting techniques and ingredients that stem from other cultures.

“There is a huge rise in the mainstream mass market with cultural practices and techniques. It’s great to see it but on the other hand it’s also important to recognise the culture it comes from,” says Saleem. “A lot of beauty traditions and cultures are sadly deeply entrenched in racism. What we did growing up was something we were ridiculed for but when the West do it, it’s considered trendy and cool.

So, I have mixed feelings about it.”

She thinks that brands and influencers need to educate themselves to showcase the cultures that influence their products and show the significance of the techniques they promote on social media.

“I think it’s important to give credit where credit is due,” she says. “I understand [influencers] may be discovering it now but a little deep dive into the education and origins of where it comes from would feel more respectful. There has been a lot of backlash from South Asian influencers who have called out other influencers for doing this so it’s important to be mindful of it.”

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Migh-tea moisture multipurpose balm fragrance free £9.95

The balm comes in eco-friendly packaging and is made up of all natural ingredients like shea butter, almond oil and black assam tea.

To top it off, their products are all vegan and cruelty-free, what more could you want?

Delhicious Body say they are proud to be a brand that is transparent with their customers results, frequently sharing before and after pictures of their customers who use their products, which speaks volumes about the effects natural skincare can have.

After walking away from Dragons’ Den in 2021 with no one interested in investing in the brand, the company has come leaps and bounds since then.

Saleem attributes social media and TikTok specifically to their brands success. This, and a combination of rave reviews has helped the brand go viral.

“It has been the single most important thing we have done in expanding the brand and growing a community of followers.” she says.

She adds: “Growing an organic following of over three hundred thousand with no ad spend has been a big achievement as well as being approached by Sephora to be stocked in store.”

One of the main reasons their brand has garnered so much support is due to one of their best-selling products, the original, award-winning Migh-tea Moisture Balm. If you go to any one of their social media outlets, or check out their reviews, you will see the scale of the impact this product has had, especially within the eczema and psoriasis community.

One reviewer said: “I have suffered with dermatitis since I was 16 and I’ve tried all the topical steroid creams and nothing worked.

I’m 34 now and after using the balm for a couple of days my hands have cleared up.

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Although natural products may not work for everyone and their skin concerns, Ms. Saleem thinks that natural products and ingredients can be very beneficial.

“I don’t think it’s about natural being more superior, but I do believe in the power of plant-based ingredients. It’s important to know what you’re putting on your skin because there is also science behind the natural.”

Their products are now available at Sephora. com and Debenhams, but this is just the beginning for Delhisious Body. Saleem hopes they can expand their brand to more retailers in the future. I bet the Dragons are pinching themselves now.

Rich roots and scalp oil Amla & Rosemary £18.00

photo credit: Reuben Moody

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photo credit: Sophia Moody

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The truth about animal testing in the cosmetic industry

The Truth

photo credit: Lauren Arkell

Animal Aid is just one of the many anti-animal testing organisations in the UK fighting to

protect animals' rights among PETA and World Animal Protection.

Animal Aid say: “Each year inside British laboratories, around 3 million animals are experimented on. Every 8 seconds, one animal dies.”

That’s 10,800 animals dying every day due to animal testing.

In a week that’s 75,600 animals.

The most common victims of your favourite Bobbi Brown vitamin face base are rabbits, guinea pigs, hamsters, rats and mice. These animals are used because there are some biological similarities to humans.

These animals held in test centres have harmful chemicals applied to their skin, dropped into their eyes and injected into their bloodstream for the benefit of the cosmetics and skincare sector and needless to say the cute fury friends do not give consent.

According to the UK government website, in 2022 alone there were 2.7 million regulated procedures, (experimental or for other scientific purpose) carried out involving living animals in Great Britain.

Although numbers have been steadily falling since 2015 animal testing is still the cause of 500,000 animal deaths every year even with alternative methods available

By Lauren Arkell 20

When did it start?

CRUELTY FREE

The initial cases including testing on animals for human benefit go way back to the 17 th century but for medical reasons rather than cosmetic. When William Harvey sought to explain blood circulation in humans through experiments on animals. Since then,animals have been victims of medical experiments. Animal testing for cosmetics can betraced back to the 20 th century when The Animal (Scientific Procedures) Act 1986 was introduced.

This is possible even after the ban due to new regulation by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) called Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH).

A famous US mascara malfunction in 1933 called Lash Lure held a case for the testing on animals where the product contained an untested chemical at the time called p-pheynenediamine which caused severe skin damage and the death of one woman.

REACH directly contradicts the European Union (EU)’s animal testing ban. Now, as we all know, the UK is no longer in the EU so how does this affect the ban on animal testing?

Numbers of animals used in experiments peaked in the 1970s, at around 5.6 million per year, before falling to around 2.7 million per year in the 1990s and early 2000s.

In 1993, a ban was passed on the sale of animal-tested cosmetic products.To make sure that adequate time was given to finding non-animal testing methods, the deadline for the ban was to come into effect on 1 January 1998.

The new regulation states that to protect workers during the manufacturing process, some substances like cosmetics products must be tested on animals.

The UK is planning to implement its own version of REACH. Cruelty-free International’s director of public affairs Kerry Postlewhite has since commented that animal testing in the UK will take place behind closed doors “Without opposition or challenge.”

So, to sum up, animal testing does still take place in the UK, but cosmetic companies may be more discreet or secretive about it.

However, even with a substantial grant from the EU of €238 million or just over £207 million to fund research into other testing methods, no alternatives to animal testing could be found, and this delayed the ban for years past the original deadline.

Even after the ban was finally introduced in 2013 within the EU, the short answer is that animal testing for cosmetics is still happening.

photo credit: Lauren Arkell

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What brands are cruelty free?

Some examples of Cruelty-free skincare brands are Lush, Hourglass, Elf, Paulas choice, Glossier, Dermalogica, Ren. Farmacy, Sunday Riley and Drunk elephant to name a few.

This may raise the question, if some skincare brands can be Cruelty-free, why aren’t all brands using the same Cruelty-free testing methods?

The FDA has said the unrestricted use of these phrases by cosmetic companies is possible because there are no legal definitions for these terms.

And some companies may claim to be Cruelty-free but although their main suppliers might be, the raw materials come from laboratories which perform any animal testing necessary. So even though they claim to be, they’re not actually Cruelty-free.

Some smaller companies may claim they are Cruelty-free but are owned by big sistercompanies like Loreal, which is not.

Educate yourself and ensure the company you buy from is transparent about their testing policies because there is a lot of confusion and covert experimentation going on in the cosmetics market.

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Lush

Photo credit: Lauren Arkell

Lush is one of the well-known cosmetics companies in the UK that has always been Cruelty-free and proud.

which are sourced from all over the world, they’d also ensure these raw materials have never been tested on animals.”

You’re probably familiar with Lush bath bombs but did you know they have a full skincare range?

Turner confirms that Lush would refuse to sell their products in countries that allow and encourage animal testing for cosmetics.

For this reason, Lush never sold their products to China due to their animal testing laws.

Sarah Turner who worked in emerging markets for Lush says that Lush has always been Cruelty-free.

She adds: “They had their own regulatory team and process signed off by the governing body, there was a legal team dedicated to labels and certificates for all markets across the world.”

Although Sarah’s primary role was in remerging markets she was involved with the Cruelty-free side too.

What does Cruelty-free mean to Lush?

Turner says: “No living creatures are used in validating their finished products. They use natural ingredients

Lush is even pioneering a Cruelty-free world by encouraging scientists to further research alternatives to animal testing and run a programme called the Lush prize.

Turner adds: “They gave an annual prize to scientists who could pioneer new ways to validate cosmetics.”

With the evolution of technology and science in 2023 we can hope that the UK will soon see the finite end to animal testing which will mean no more rabbits have to die in order for our favourite moisture bomb face masks to make its way to the drug store shelves.

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anti ageing: FUelling the fear of ageing or curing it?

photo credit: Reuben Moody

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photo credit: Reuben Moody

As modern-age women and

men we can take much relief in knowing that there are a plethora of options out there to delay the ageing process.

What was for the elite, now is the predominantly westernised norm. With more choice than ever due to constant new inventions to fight the inevitable change in our appearance. Marketing such as ‘lunchtime face lift’ is being pushed on a much younger demographic as preventative rather than cure, but does this new aesthetic culture fuel the fear of ageing or are we lucky that we can do something about it?

‘Tweakment’ culture After the lockdown pull-back, we are now going through a medical aesthetics boom.

Probably the most popular ageing prevention procedure, Botox. First introduced to the market in 1989 While technically a brand name, Botox may refer to any injectable form of botulinum toxin type A. Botulinum toxin is a protein derived from the bacterium Clostridium botulinum, heavily diluted and highly purified. First conceived for the super wealthy and ‘vain’, now perceived as a positive non-invasive procedure which has become 845% more popular since the year 2000.

Owner of Angel face aesthetics Laura Stanley says: “I honestly think botox is now such a commonly used benefit my industry has to offer. It helps people with their insecurities and makes them more confident around the masses of people who now take antiageing seriously.”

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For middle aged women ‘tweakment’ culture has created a new beauty standard between the younger generation that can be seen as intimidating meaning they turn to the same procedures.

Forty-four year old Sarah Turner spoke on this dynamic her and her peers face saying “Sometimes I think to myself I just don’t want to do it, i’m ready to grow old gracefully then you walk into a room filled with people my age with high cheekbones and plump lips and I feel like I have to keep up with them or become invisible” following with “Me and my friends always discuss this mental battle for our age it is so hard to decide what would fulfil us more.”

Tweakment culture has now become favoured by women in their 20s and 30s who want that extra edge on ageing but Stanley says: “I try to steer away people in their twenties from getting botox as it isn’t really needed.”

Face-lift phenomenon Joanna Brook-Tanker, age 57, fell victim to the immersion of trying to rewind the clock. Brook-Tanker started late with aesthestic treatments, she did not try botox or filler until her late 40s. At mid 50’s she paid £10,000 to get a face lift procedure done in attempts of banishing wrinkles and making her look like her younger self again.

Through this invasive procedure you are unable to walk without pain for around two days with swelling and bruising lasting for around one to two weeks. This means that women who are not retired are advised to take weeks of work to prioritise this

With Botox more popular than eve lower and lower, is anti-ageing cul

By Sophia Moody

er and the target demographic slowly getting lture for good or for worse?

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treatment. As the operation is seen as a luxury within our society it isn’t something that even desired can be done.

fearing to look like their aged self.

This included the use of retinol which is ineffective for young skin and advised against by professionals. . In this case for Brook-Tanker after earing to look like their aged self. a month her facelift completely This included the use of retinol dropped and she was left looking which is ineffective for young skin the exact same as before the proand advised against by professioncedure and the masses of money als. spent to look younger. Brook-Tanker says: “I felt like I made a massive This is not the only filter which choice about my insecurities and fuels this behaviour as the social how far I was willing to fix them for media norm is to use beauty filter it not to work and now it’s left me which blurs the face and gives a feeling lower than before.” She was user an unnatural youthful apunable to get a refund and is not pearance whilst posting to the looking to have another procedure platforms.The industry is profitdue to the mental stress it has put ing from the somewhat innocent on her. filters that can have a huge impact by instilling fear into younger peoOf course there are other options ple and making them go to unnecon the market. ‘No knife’ options, essary levels to battle the insecuribut they carry a hefty price tag and ty instead of enjoying their youth. in the wrong hands can also make you look older. Treatment using What does this mean for the ultrasound and radio frequency future? sounds like a golden ticket, one The global anti-aging market was treatment and no downtime sells a estimated to be worth around dream however the reality is these £49.4 billion and in the current can cost up to £6000 with no guar- climate due to influences this antee. will only grow. The market needs to be conscious of the fact they Social media also plays its could be feeding into a society’s insecurity and addiction to an part unrealistic ideal. The real concern isn’t anti-ageing products and Thanks to the social media app Tikprocedures; it is a modern priviTok a new trend has surfaced using lege but the innapropriate market the ‘old age’ filter which overlays the it is influencing creates an unjust face in realtime to show how a perstigma. son’s skin and facial structure will look decades down the line. MilAnti ageing aesthetics, fuelling the lions of Tik Tok users have taken to fear of ageing or curing it? After the app and posted videos with the all the confusion and cost of the filter creating a worldwide ageing industry, the overwhelming confreak out alongside celebrities such sensus is that women are grateful as Kylie Jenner who says in the vidto have the options, though want eo “I don’t like it at all.” more regulation on what practiThis has led to millions of videos tioners can offer the treatment and of users as young as 14 posting in

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governed advice on what is safe and effective. We have come a long way in society by accepting people’s differences though really it’s ourselves that need to accept our own changes. differences though really it’s ourselves that need to accept our own changes.

“Whilst workin industry I’ve se relationship be and product ch development h realisms that ar making people young forever.”

MENTAL HEALTH

ng within the een the etween client hange. Product has created these re false and e try and stay ”

photo credit: valeria_

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THE GIRLS BATHROOM

MZ SKIN Bright gold eye mask £22 The Ordinary Marine Hylaronics £7.90 Photo credit: Sophia Moody 30

photo credit: Sophia Moody

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photo credit: Sophia Moody

THE GREEN BEAUTY REVOLUTION: NURTURING YOUR SKIN AND THE PLANET

In the fast-paced world of beauty, trends come and go like seasons. When you find something that makes your skin glow; it can get washed down the drain all too quickly and those plastic bottles pile up in the recycling bin. But how much of it is actually recyclable? Trends may be fleeting, but plastic lasts forever.

By Bex Thornberry

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The beauty

industry is undergoing a green revolution, and at the forefront of this change is the rising importance of environmentally friendly skincare.

Conventional skincare products, with synthetic chemicals and packaged in non-biodegradable materials, contribute significantly to environmental pollution.

photo credit: Rebbeca Thornberry

As we slather on creams and cleanse our skin with foaming agents, we inadvertently release harmful substances into the ecosystem.

The packaging, often excessive and made from non-recyclable materials, adds to the growing burden of plastic waste. The environmental cost of traditional skincare is steep, and the consequences are far deeper than it seems.

Cleansing our skin but poisoning the ocean The European commission states that: “It is estimated that 42,000 Tonnes of microplastics intentionally added to products are released in the EU.”

bag thrown into the ocean per person per week.”

These tiny beads are marketed as the best way to remove dirt from your skin, as they dig deep into your pores.

But they are contributing to the ever-growing plastic waste piling up in our oceans.

The wildlife of the ocean is getting

our drain every morning? Exfochoked by plastic, and humans are liants and scrubs are a normal part too. of our daily routine, our pores can feel stripped of any dirt and It is estimated that an average hugrime due to the tiny plastic beads man eats 5 grams of microplastic digging deep into our skin. It can in a week; according to scientists. feel almost relieving to be rid of all What we wash down our drain that dirt, even if you can’t really makes its way into our oceans – see it. and further along the food chain back to us.

Though this process can be damaging, causing irritation and inMicroplastics are added for pure flammation to those with sensitive convenience, to boost profit with skin. complete disregard for the environment, as it’s cheaper to However, these tiny pieces of plas- include these plastics and market tic can not only harm our skin, but them as something healthy than they are also causing destruction affordthe alternatives. to our precious environment.

There are so many alternatives to As the European Commission choose from, as the all-natural states: “The estimated global reskincare brand Suntribe states: lease of primary microplastics in the ocean amounts to 15 million “This percentage [of waste] could tons per year which equals one be brought down to zero if the

“The estimated global release of primary microplastics is in the ocean amounts to 15 million tons per year which equals one plastic bag thrown into the ocean per person per week.”

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skincare industry switched to natural alternatives such as clay, wax and starch.”

They add: “In some products, the plastic added as ingredients equals the weight of the plastic packaging it comes in.”

Packaging is designed to catch our eye, whilst companies maximise every last penny. Heavy plastic bottles can look pretty stacked up on your skincare shelf, but they can take hundreds of years to breakdown in landfill.

The estimated breakdown time for a plastic skincare bottle, like the one you may be holding in your hands right now, is 450 years.

That’s a very long time for something as simple as a bottle of moisturiser.

And think of how many different products are in your routine, how many serums, toners and cleansershave you thrown away?

Here in Leeds, West Yorkshire an estimated 4,500 tons of plastic get recycled each year.

With recycling centres across the city, more is being done to reuse these plastics.

more nourishing approach to skincare.

Companies are branching out into the sustainable industry ditching the plastic for bamboo, cardboard and wooden packaging.

One such company is Naked Sprout, who specialise in transforming bamboo into everyday items such as face cloths and tissues, a smart way to ensure that even the smallest parts of our routine like wiping our face can be sustainable.

However, the cost to make these products is a lot higher and ramps up the price of our skincare.

Sourcing such materials may also be hard as the scarcity of wood, bamboo and other forest-based materials becomes apparent.

One of the most sustainable materials to package our skincare in is glass.

Jasmine Cheng from Unsustainable Magazine says:

However, alternatives like bamboo and glass are inundating the skincare community.

How the scene is changing Enter environmentally friendly skincare – a beacon of hope for both your skin and the planet.

Clean andgreen formulas are at the heart of this, championing the use of natural, ethically sourced ingredients. Plant-based chemicals, offering a gentler and 34

photo credit: Sophia Moody

“Glass is considered one of the most sustainable materials due to its recyclability and durability.

It can be recycled indefinitely without losing its quality,”she adds “By allowing consumers to replenish their skincare products without the need for new packaging, refillable containers significantly reduce waste generation.”

Processing these may also be difficult as it takes a lot more time and dedicated machinery in order to breakdown these sustainable materials.

The industry is changing for the better, but as conscious consumers we may have to dig deeper into ourpockets.

Though it is impossible to reverse the damage plastic packaging has done to our environment, sustainability is the way forward and more is being done to ensure a brighter, clean and green future.

photo credit: Reuben Moody

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photo credit: Reuben Moody

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CRUELTY FREE

I TRIED THE ORDINARY’S PRODUCTS FOR TWO MONTHS

By Sophia Moody AND THIS HAPPENED...

PRODUCTS USED

- Sqaulane cleanser - Glucoside foaming cleanser - Marine hyaluronics serum - Salicilyic acid - AHA 30% BHA 2% peeling solution

As someone who struggles to understand my ever changing skin it has been a battle, so I took to the viral cruelty-free skincare brand The Ordinary to create me the perfect routine.

You can book a consultation in store where a specialist reviews your problem areas and advises on products to solve these issues.

The problems she reviewed were blemish and texture focused.

She advised me on the five products.

MONTH ONE To begin with I became sceptical of this brand, often when there is hype through celebrity and influencer advertising the products can sometimes have a better marketing strategy then actual product.

However when trying new skincare you can often go through a purging process where your skin is rejecting all toxins out from under the skin.

By week two there was a visible difference, with blemishes reduced and holding a dewy glow throughout the day.

MONTH TWO This month my texture smoothed incredibly. The peeling solution has a stronger percentage which strips the skin creating a visible big impact on the bumps on my forehead and chin.

As the weather dropped many peoples skin began to dry in areas, for me this is on my chin and around my nose. The marine serum was able to stop these areas 38

from flaking and make up from cracking, when mixed with a moisturiser on top to hold in the serum it is extremely effective.

REVIEW I would advise anyone who is looking to find an effective cruelty free brand which lays out simple rules and highlights an easy step process for targeting specific areas should look at The Ordinary.

For the price, which came to £34 in total, I believe this company

works wonders and is amazing for beginners who want to start their skin journey and not spend hundreds of pounds on separate serums and cleansers.

My only criticism is that when discussing blemishes being a big problem the specialist did not advise any blemish specific treatments, however due to my positive experience with the brand I will be purchasing more from The Ordinary. photo edited by Sophia Moody

photo credit: Reuben Moody

Photo credit: Sophia Moody Model using the Glucoside Foaming Cleanser - effectively cleanses the skin whilst maintaining the skin’s moisture barrier.

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Model using the Glucoside Foaming Cleanser - effectively cleanses the skin whilst maintaining the skin’s moisture barrier.

Photo credit: Sophia Moody

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men are starting to see us but are we seeing them?

Men are beginning to move on from basic grooming, skin concerns don’t discriminate between genders so why do the products that solve them.

By Sophia Moody

When asking Amica’s male

readers whether they upkeep a skincare routine 68% said they do. As toxic masculinity slowly fades generation by generation the skincare industry is still creating a binary separation consumers know as: his and hers.

Pastel colours and pretty packaging to the right and black and white packaging to the left. With products in both bottles containing parallel ingredients why is skincare not pushing for gender neutrality?

Gender sells It is no secret that marketing feeds off the conditioned social construct that certain themes and

branding is seen as ‘feminine’ and ‘masculine’. With men concerned with keeping a masculine identity products are catered towards furthering this separation to profit off it.

With the industry seen traditionally to favour women and the products feminine creating separate bottles with identical ingredients makes men feel somewhat more comfortable to buy them.

What are the skin differences between genders?

Mens skin is 20% thicker but needs the same ingredients to treat the same issues. Dermatologist Adele Edmund says: “The only true difference in men and wom-

en’s skin care methods is that men need to use a higher frequency of product when going through their routine.” With this being the only difference does that really warrant men having to use an entirely different skincare regimen?

Let’s push forward The future is neutral, taking inspiration from newer brands well established brands need to steer towards genderless campaigning slowly moving away from making skincare a gender-specific market.

Instead of categorising skin by gender, emphasis can be put on a person’s skin-type and problems.

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Home-made remedies Follow the guides for some easy DIY skin solutions Not everyone has the disposable income to invest in the high-end skincare we all see on TikTok. Thankfully you don’t have to look further than your kitchen to make some of these fun and effective DIY skincare hacks.

Oat-meal masks Research has shown oatmeal absorbs excess oil from epidermis and makes a good ingredient for acne-prone skin. It can calm inflamed skin and remove dead skin cells.

Steps: • 2 tablespoons of oatmeal • 1 teaspoon of baking soda • And just enough water to make a paste.

Apply to a clean dry face and leave for 10 minutes.

OR Honey is a great humectant to hydrate the skin and lock in moisture and also has anti-bacterial properties.

• 1 serving oatmeal (cooled) • 2 tablespoons of honey

Face masks for oily skin The key for making DIY face masks for oily skin types is to choose ingredients that decrease excess sebum without drying your face out.

Aloe face mask

Apple face masks Fruits are packed with skin-loving acids, vitamins, minerals and oils and apples are one of the best options for an oily complexion and also contain AHAs like glycolic acid which is found in pricey store-bought acne treatments.

Steps: • One medium apple (puree) • Honey Leave on for 10-15 minutes

Face masks for dry skin Avocado face mask Avocado can help to hydrate and moisturise your skin. They are filled with healthy omega fatty acids and nutrients to boost your skin’s hydration.

Steps: • Half an avocado • 1 teaspoon of plain yogurt • 1 teaspoon of honey Leave for 15 to 20 minutes

Strawberry face mask Use this delicious berry to inject some vitamins into your skin.

Steps: • 5 fresh strawberries (mashed) • 7.4ml (about 0.25 oz) plain yogurt • 2 teaspoons of honey Leave on for 20 minutes for maximum

Did you know this plant can aid in oil absorption?

Steps: • An aloe leaf • A cucumber sliced • Honey • Plain yogurt Leave on for 15 minutes and relax photo credit: Lauren Arkell

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45 Photo credit: Sophia Moody

Photo credit: Sophia Moody 46

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Winter skincare survival guide With the winter months setting in, your skincare routine may be in need of an ajustment as your skin bears the cold weather. Dry skin and irritation are the biggest issues people of all skin types face with the changing of the season, so we created a guide to help you take care of your skin this winter

By Kiera Wilcox

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First things first, you should opt for a gentler cleanser in these harsh winter months. We don't want to strip your skin of all its natural oils.

Soho Skin's gentle cream-to-foam cleanser (£55) is perfect for lifting away any make-up, dirt and SPF without irritating your skin barrier.

It's hydrating, fragrance-free, vegan and recommended for all skin types. However, if you want a more affordable option, try Lush's Ultrabland simple yet effective cleanser (£11). The formula inspired by a 2000-year-old Ancient Greek physician Galen, consists of Beeswax to contain moisture and rosewater to soothe, making it the perfect winter-friendly cleanser.

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Moisture Moisture Moisture

This is the key step in your routine. Picking a great moisturiser to lock in your hydrating products and act as a barrier is crucial to protecting your skin from cold weather. Even if we can't see the sun, your skin can still be damaged by UV even in the cold and rainy weather, so make sure to use a moisturiser with a SPF during the day. Aloe Soothing SPF50 PA+++ Sun Cream by COSRX (£22) is a great option for all skin types and tones with soothing Aloe Vera and glycerine for deep hydration. For nighttime, Lush's best-selling Celestial moisturiser (£21) with vanilla water and almond milk will soothe your complexion and fortify your skin.

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calming cleanse

To Exfoliate or not...

Using a chemical exfoliant especially during winter may not seem like a good idea, but the right one can in fact help shed debris and create a better foundation for your moisturising products to be absorbed. For oiler to combination skin, Pixi Glow Tonic (£17) is a great toner that won't be too harsh on your skin. If you have more sensitive skin, this budget-friendly serum by The Ordinary containing Lactic Acid and Hyaluronic Acid (£7.90) is great for dissolving dead skin cells and boosting hydration all in one go.

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Mistletoe ready

Tis the season of chapped, dry lips. Well not anymore. With the skin on our lips being thinner this causes them to see the effects of cold dry weather the most, so we want to find a lip balm that can have your lips hydrated and soft in time for your New Years Kiss. Delhicious Body's Lip Genie (£5.50) combines moisturising plant butters like mango oil and shea butter, as well as vegan wax and vitamin c to nourish and soothe lips. Another option is the Natural Jojoba Lip Balm by Scence (£6), another balm that uses naturally derived oils to condition lips and even protects from harmful UV radiation.

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Photo credit: Sophia Moody

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What is importa

Maximizing youthful glow

Hydrat thirst skin

What's cramping your style?

Fine lines

Thought veggies in skincare ro

Under eye bags

pollution

Bring on the greens

How like moist

All products are cruelty-free

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ant for your skin

Evening out skin tone

ting ty n

I like romances the way I like my skincare

ts on n your outine

Spinach is for salads

I will swoon for roses

I like fruit and champagne baby

w do you e your turizers?

I want something lightweight

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Photo credit: Reuben Moody

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AMICA SKIN WINTER 2023

ISSUE 001 No matter what shape or size you are, you should feel confident in your own skin. You should feel like a beautiful women, no matter what.” - Joanna Krupa

£5.99