Kalam KKK Ki Kari
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© Published on the year 2022 by the Fashion Designing department, INIFD South Mumbai. Kimatri Building, Maharshi Karve Rd, Dhobi talao, New Marine Lines, Mumbai, Maharashtr, 400020 Tell: 077383 27834
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Acknowledgement
I heartliy acknowledge to all the artists who created this beautiful craft.
A special thanks to Mr. Chandra Moturu and his daughter Yavanka Moturu without whom it would have been impossible to know about this craft in detail.
I would also like to express our deep gratitude toward Mr. Vikas Chhugani for encouraging, guiding and motivating us throughout this project.
1..Executive Summary 2. Secondary Research 3. Primary Research 4. Data Analysis 5. Research Synopsis Index
Development
Design
Limitation
Bibliography
6. Design
7. Final
8.
9.
ExecutiveSummary
Craft cluster is a project in which the students have to research about a craft and about the history and what goes behind the making process, and in every small detail like the dyes, the desiging part and the problems that the artisans have to face. At the end students have to come up the solution in a form of a product with the view point of promoting the craft.
Kalam is a Pen Kari is Craftsmanship
Kalamkari together is a unique art form
SecondaryResearch
Kalamkari
Kalamkari is a form of hand printed or block printed craft which is done on cotton fabric. Kalamkari is done in different parts of the world, Isfahan, Iran and in the India state Andhra Pradesh. The only authentic way of kalamkari is to use natural dyes which has 23 steps to make the dyes.
There are 2 different styles of kalamkari art style in India Srikalahasti style Machilipatnam style
In the Srikalahasti style of kalamkari the Kalam(pen) is used in freehand drawing the motif and then filling with natural Colours and the whole style is hand work
In the machilipatnam style of kalamkari art is made from vegetable dyed block printing in cotton fabric. And it is produced in pedana a town near machilipatnam in Krishna district
Historically, Kalamkari used to be termed as Pattachitra, an art form still found in neighboring Odisha and other parts of India and Nepal. The term "Pattachitra" translates to "patta", meaning "cloth", with "chitra" meaning "picture". Paintings made on fabric and fabric scrolls are mentioned in ancient Hindu, Buddhist and Jain literature.
Under medieval Islamic rule, the term Kalamkari was derived from the words "kalam", which means "pen" in Telugu, and "kari", which means craftsmanships. This became popular under the patronage of the Golconda sultanate.
History of Kalamkari
In centuries gone by, kalamkari motifs were painted on royal flags, tents canopies and floor rugs. Musicians and painters, known as chitrakars, moved from villages to tell the village dwellers the stories of Hindu mythology. They illustrated their accounts using large bolts of canvas painted on the spot with simple means and dyes extracted from plants
Similarly, the ones found in Hindu temples are large panels of Kalamkari depicting the episodes of Hindu mythology and iconography, similar to Buddhist Thangka paintings.
Kalamkari specifically depicts epics such as the Ramayana or Mahabharata. However, there are recent applications of the Kalamkari technique to depict Buddha and Buddhist art forms. In recent times, many aesthetically good figures such as musical instruments, small animals, flowers, Buddha and few Hindu symbols, like swastika are also introduced to Kalamkari. Kalamkari art has been practiced by many families in Andhra Pradesh, some villages in Tamil Nadu by migrants from Telugu speaking families over the generations have constituted their livelihood
Kalamkari had a period of decline, then was revived in India and abroad for its craftsmanship. Since the 18th century, the British have enjoyed the decorative element for clothing.
AREUSEDBYTHE KALAMKARIARTISTS
Gada or
Tender
RAWMATERIALSTHAT
Kora cloth Vegetable dyes Alum
myrobalans Buffalo milk Kalam Charcoal from burnt tamarind twigs
Process
The Process of making Kalamkari fabric, involves 23 steps. This involves bleaching Kalamkari fabric, softening it, drying it in sun, preparing natural dyes, air drying and washing. The entire procedure is intricate and requires an eye for detailing Generally, cotton fabric is used for making Kalamkari; however, silk fabric can also be used. Kalamkari fabric is first treated with a solution of cow dung and bleach. After keeping the fabric in this solution, it gets a uniform off white color.
To avoid smudging of dyes on the Kalamkari fabric, it is also dipped in a mixture of buffalo milk and mylobalans. Kalamkari fabric is then washed twenty times and sun dried After this, the fabric is ready for printing. Kalamkari designs are then painted on the fabric, by hand. Kalamkari fabrics include minute details and it is painted using natural dyes.
Kalamkari art primarily use earthy colors like indigo, mustard, rust, black and green. Natural dyes used to paint colors in Kalamkari art is extracted for natural sources with no use of chemicals and artificial matter. For instance, craftsmen extract black color by blending jaggery, water and iron fillings which they essentially use for outlining the sketches. While mustard or yellow is derived by boiling pomegranate peels, red hues are created from bark of madder or algirin. Likewise, blue is obtained from indigo and green is derived by mixing yellow and blue together.
Designerview
Gaurang Shah showcased his collection ‘Chitravali a magnificent jewel of art’ at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017. The collection is inspired by the frescoes of Ajanta caves. The collection has hand-painted kalamkari work on Kanjeevaram silk with beautiful chikankari embroidery. The best part is the natural dyes have been used for the artwork Each outfit was crafted to speak elegance, tradition, and fashion.
Gaurang Shah
Gaurang Shah, Hyderabad based textile savant extraordinaire, has been traversing the country for the last 20 years, and invigorating the weaving traditions of India. His work spreads across 16 states, engaging 7000 weavers, craftspeople and others in ancillary trades in a perennial stable livelihood. Bringing forth relentlessly the creative and aesthetic ideas, his team a consortium of artisans with extraordinary skills weave the best of Indian textiles translating his designs with skill and techniques to create a diverse and timeless grand assemblage of Heritage Sarees. Gaurang successfully operates at the intersection of art, craft and design.
Kalamkari
CHITRAVALI
W I N T E R / F E S T I V 2 0 1 7
Neeta Lulla is an Indian costume designer and fashion stylist who has worked on over 300 films. She has been designing wedding dresses since 1985. Her name became inseparably associated with Bollywood after actresses Aishwarya Rai and Madhuri Dixit wore her costumes in Devdas (2002 Hindi film), the trend-setting Bollywood film.
Neeta
KalamkariCollection2013 Lulla
This collection is all about patch work of kalamkari that has been patched on net giving it a new style.
PRIMARYRESEARCH
1..Since how many years you are doing Kalamkari ? For the past 30 years I have been practising kalamkari
2. Who introduce you to kalamkari ? It was a family business that me and my brother and sister carried forward.
3. How much time does it take for making a product of Kalamkari ?
It depends on what type of a product that is in making. If it is a saree it takes 1-2 months for making it.
4. Why are people not preferring original kalamkari and how is it effecting your business ?
People are not preferring original kalamkari because of the costing and the replica's that are available in the market for a cheaper rate.
5. How did COVID effect your business ?
COVID has effected our business in every way, the raw materials prices have increased and the Labour cost also. After covid we haven’t gone for any Worksop's or any exhibitions.
6. Is the new generation preferring kalamkari as a business ?
Yes, my daughter is a engineer and she just graduated but she is in our kalamkari famliy business. And there are many youngsters who are handling there kalamkari family business’s.
7. Is there an easy way of making kalamkari ?
There might be another way but then we cannot call it as Original Kalamkari.
8. How can you make-out a real kalamkari product ?
As we only use natural dyes, the colours are very subtle and never too bright like synthetic dyes. Also as it is a handmade products there will be some mistakes and some irregularities in the design and it cannot be a proper symmetrical design and there will be some imperfections.
9. As it is a handmade product how do you decide your product rate?
It depends on the fabric that we are using for the product making, and also labour cost with the raw material costing.
10. What raw materials are used ?
The main fabric
Natural dyes
Buffalo milk
Myrobalans
Alum
Burnt tamarind twigs
Bamboo stick for the Kalam
11. Have the materials chanced through the years? No since i have been practising kalamkari the raw materials are the same.
12. Why did you chose Srikalahasti kalamkari ?
Because that’s what my father was practising.
Mr.Chandra
DATAANALYSIS
you ever heard about the Kalamkari craft?
that
of
Do you know that Kalamkari has two diff styles?
75% 25% 54.2% 45.8% 58.3% 41.7%
1..Have
2.
3. Do you think
block printing is a part
Kalamkari? Yes No Yes No Yes No 25% 75% 454.2% 5.8% 58 3% 41 7%
4. What is the product cost range according to you?
Are you aware of the replica for the Kalamkari products in the market?
Would you care for the originality of the craft before buying the a product?
5.
6.
37.5% 33.3% 29.2% 550% 0% 70.8% 29.2% 1000-3000 3000 8000 8000 15000 Yes No Yes No 29 2% 33 3% 37 5% 50% 50% 70 8% 29 2%
you buy a daily use product
kalamkari also if it is
this craft
The cost of a tussar silk Kalamkari dupatta is 9500/ , do you think it is reasonable for the tedious work that goes behind making that product?
8.
9. Why is
dying? 7. Whould
of
expensive? 75% 25% 70.8% 29.2% 258.3% 5% 12.5% 42% Yes No Yes No Too costly Screen printing/Digital printing All of the above Fast Fashion 25% 75% 29 2% 70 8% 58 3% 12 5% 25% 5%
What type of products in Kalamkari would you like to see in the market?
What is an option for not letting this craft die?
Making people aware of kalamkari
pricing Workshops
11.
Bags Clothing Travel accessories Gadgets accessories 1. 2. 3. 4. 10.
90% 5% 5%
Affordable
90% 5% 5%
The objective of this project is to do in depth research on the craft- kalamkari and the process which goes behind it, and focusing on the variety available in products and also exploring product designing.
RESEARCHSYNOPSIS
PROBLEMATICSTATEMENT&SOLUTION
Lack of awareness:
Kalamkari is a craft that not many people are aware about.
Solution: Can make a Documentary about Kalamkari, and the government can make an organisation that promotes kalamkari and aslo kalamkari artisans.
Costly Pricing:
Because the tedious work and the lengthy process that goes behind making kalamkari it becomes very costly.
Solution: Can focus on making small products that is not time consuming.
Growing Competition:
Digital printing and screen printing is a way of replacing kalamkari for a cheaper rate.
Solution: Can make people aware about the difference between original kalamkari and digital/screen printed kalamkari products.
DESIGNDEVELOPMENT
Tote Bag
Card Holder
Mouse Pad
As kalamkari is very expensive and time consuming we have come up with the idea of making a small product, and according to the data analysis we came up with the idea of making a card holder.
As we don’t want to hamper the craft we decided not to make any changes in the motifs and the colours, hence forward went ahead with making a peacock mple border.
PTNOTE
LIMITATION
Could not vist the work place due to the time constraint.
People are not aware about this craft.
Craftsmen not replying to the mail.
Craftsmen rejecting to be interviewed.
Language barrier
The process is very time consuming hence it is costly.
CONCLUSION
Focusing on making small products.
Government can organise workshops that promotes kalamkari and its artisans.
Making people aware about digitally printed kalamkari and hand done kalamkari.
Making documentaries about the craft.
Making a website on which kalamkari products are sold.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
1.. https://www.hindustantimes.com/art-and-culture/kalamkarithe-ancient-block-printing-art-threatened-by-digitaltechniques/story-AhWpKDwakSy8k8z1heBjoI.html 18/08/2022 10:30
2. https://www.indiatoday.in/magazine/society-thearts/story/19790915-kalamkari-art-faces-set-back-due-to-lackof patronage 822564 2014 02 21 25/08/2022 11:00
3. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalamkari 27/08/2022 11:30
4. https://laasyaart.com/kalamkari a traditional indian art of perfection/ 01/09/2022 12:00
5. https://www.itokri.com/collections/kalamkari fabrics? gclid=Cj0KCQjw fmZBhDtARIsAH6H8qh0NE43GMfMkksq4KiZZqUAf8vKDyUwdd ErmzEmHWpk7xrNwBA-iOQaAmE5EALw wcB 08/09/2022 10:30
6. https://www.dsource.in/resource/kalamkari work srikalahasti/products 22/09/2022 1:00