ALTR Magazine Issue 2: Rebirth

REBIRTH As spring has brought about the reinvigoration of the natural world, we have chosen the theme of “Rebirth” for our second ALTR issue, drawing parallels between a newly evolving fashion industry and nature’s seasonal transformations.

By definition, rebirth highlights a renewed existence, activity, or growth. Springtime epitomizes this concept, providing a chance for new beginnings while also creating completely new opportunities. Plants that once shed their leaves and lay dormant during the colder months are revived during this season of recreation, granting them a new life. Although plants and other living organisms experience different levels of renewal during this time, they all undergo the process of rebirth and become something new while still retaining remnants of their past selves. Thus, “Rebirth” explores the ways in which fashion is currently being revived or reconstructed in a social, cultural, and literal sense..

Due to recent alarming global crises, such as climate change and the Covid-19 pandemic, we have seen a rise in actions focused on recreating the fashion industry as we know it. Numerous individuals have taken initiative to ALTR their current practices, contributing to creating a more resilient industry overall. Although these crises have been detrimental to billions of people across the globe, they are ushering in a new era within the fashion world. Global crises have challenged how clothing brands operate, forcing them to adapt and move toward using more sustainable and ethical practices.

The fashion industry is currently undergoing a metamorphosis of its system. In this issue, we examine how the fashion life cycle is being reshaped, from fast fashion trends to slow and long-lasting garments with ethical practices. Additionally, we examine the evolution of sustainability across generations and the dynamic ways in which we consume and view fashion. From upcycling to NFTs, we explore the theme of rebirth in a contemporary way through multiple diverse perspectives. Thank you for choosing ALTR. We are so excited to bring you our newest issue and we hope you enjoy it!

From, The Sustainable Fashion Team

CONTENTS 10

F ROM RAGS TO RICH E S

30

REBIRTHDAY PARTY

10

GO-TO GUIDE TO

30

C A R E GU I D E T O L ON GE V I T Y

30

T H E B I N A R Y B OU N D A R Y :

30

S T A T E OF GR A C E

30

WH A T S H OU L D Y OU

30

R E S T OR A T I ON

30

R E B I R T H S OU N D S C A P E

S HOPPING S USTAINABLY

10

D ARK WATERS OMINOUS OCEANS

10

T HE TANGLED P REDICAMENT OF C ROCHET

10

D I GITAL FASHION T AKEOVER: A S USTAINABILITY RED F LAG M ETAMORPHOSIS

GE N D E R I N F A S H I ON

UPCYCLE?

MADISONMUSZYNSKI MUSZYNSKI //// MADISON 707 CLOTHING HEAVEN 707CLOTHINGHEAVEN

Madison Muszynski Muszynski stands standsininfront frontofofher herclothing clothingrack rack Madison in her Detroit apartment, apartment,pulling pullinglooks looksfor forthe the in her urban urban Detroit photoshootasasanother anothermodel modelreturns returns dressed in one photoshoot dressed in one of her designs.Her Her humility humility shines, shines,maintaining maintaining of her new new designs. aa down-to-earth disposition that seems foreign at her down-to-earth disposition that seems foreign at her level of early early success. success.Muszynski Muszynskidebuted debutedher herbrand, brand, level of 707CLOTHINGHEAVEN in September of 2020, as a as 707CLOTHINGHEAVEN, in September of 2020 junior a juniormajoring majoringininFashion FashionMerchandising MerchandisingatatWayne Wayne State University.

Her sustainable philosophy evolved State University. Her sustainable philosophy evolved into the the process processininwhich whichshe shetransforms transformsfabric fabricscraps scraps into from their their consumerist consumeristgraves gravesand andrevives revives them from them into into vibrant, mosaic garments, complete with 707’s vibrant, mosaic garments.

Complete with 707’s signature signaturestitching contrastand stitching and loose threads. contrast loose threads, each uniqueEach piece is unique into piece is reborn reborn a new life. into a new life.

Walls with magazine cut-outs Walls lined drizzled with magazine cut-outsand anddrizzled stickers,with stickers, surfacesincovered in memorabilia, nostalgic memorabilia, surfaces covered nostalgic and baskets and baskets of deconstructed garment scraps of deconstructed garment scraps surround her in a veil surround herinspiration. in a veil of whimsical A stack of whimsical A stack of inspiration. blankets patiently of blankets patiently wait bytothe sewing machine wait by the sewing machine be transformed into ato be transformed into coat.and With a touch of rage and coat.

With a touch of arage a one-of-a-kind outfit, a one-of-a-kind outfit, passion MadisonforMuszynski’s slowMuszynski’s slow-burn the secondhand burn passioninto for the secondhand transformed transformed something she now relentlessly into somethingeven she now relentlessly advocates, even advocates, generously performing alterations generously performing alterations and customizations and customizations to further ensure long-lasting to further ensure masterpieces.

She masterpieces.

She long-lasting repurposes everything by hands repurposes by hands gracedthat with graced with everything miniature tattooed sparkles intrinsically miniature sparkles that intrinsically bring a little magic bring a little magic into everything she creates.

“I was into everything she creates. was always making always making things with my“I hands, so I liked to look at thingsIwith hands, so Icute,” liked to at them. I had them. had my to make them shelook explains. to make them cute,” she explains.

Whether you’ve known her for years or for just a few WhetherMuszynski’s you’ve known her for years or forimmediately just a minutes, light-hearted energy few minutes, Muszynski’s light-hearted energy grounds you while her eclectic designs give you a taste immediately grounds you while her eclectic designs into her world. On any given day, she can be found give a taste intosmall her world.

On any givenbehind day, in theyou haven of her office room, sitting she can be machine found in with the haven of herbackdrop small office her sewing the bustling of room, sitting behind her sewing machine with Detroit right outside her window. Muszynski’s lifethe is her bustling backdrop of Detroit right outside her window. playground, and recess just got called.

Muszynski’s life is her playground, and recess just got called.

K: start off off in the beginning of your K:Let’s Let’s start in the beginning of journey. your journey.

How getget intointo fashion?

Howdid didyou youoriginally originally fashion?

M: bit. I’ve I’ve always put M:I Iguess guess IIjust justliked likedto to sew sew aa little little bit. always put things together.

I thrifted with my mom when I was things together. I thrifted with my mom when I was younger, soII had had cool cool pieces, pieces,and andthen thenititexpanded expanded into younger, so into aa personal style.Then Then once once II started tonot notlike likethe thebrands brands personal style. started to that makingthings thingsaround aroundme, me,I Iwas waslike, like,I Iguess guessI’ll that were were making I’ll make things I liked for myself fit body. my justjust make things thatthat I liked for myself andand thatthat fit my body.

And where that’s where I am now.

And that’s I am now.

K: that philosophy.

What would you consider to be K: I love I love that philosophy.

What would you consider the most upcycling project you’ve ever done?ever to be thenotable most notable upcycling project you’ve M: That’s kind of a hard one. I guess it would have to be done? at startkind of 707 realized maybe I really could M:the That’s of awhen hardI one.

I guess it would have to bedo this. professor out to me andIthey like, at theMy start of 707 reached when I realized maybe reallywere could do the dance program is putting on a videography thing and this. My professor reached out to me and they were like, they’re looking for some costumes, are you interested? the dance program is putting on a videography thing and And I was like, sure!

It was only likeare two weeks away. IAnd just I they’re looking for some costumes, you interested? started stuff out.

It two was weeks really away. cool because I got was like,whipping sure! It was only like I just started to see my stuff garments in that way for theI first time. whipping out. Itmove was really cool because got to see Imy feltgarments so welcomed people came moveand in that way for theafter first and time.bought I felt so customs It was really humbling for customs me. I gotfrom welcomedfrom andme. people came after and bought commissioned to do these pieces and now they’re going me. It was really humbling for me. I got commissioned to do to go pieces on auction so then thegoing dancetoprogram will get these and now they’re go on auction so those then funds. the dance program will get those funds.

K: likelike thrifting withwith your your mommom was the radical K:ItItsounds sounds thrifting was the catalyst this passion. radical for catalyst for this passion.

M: bad.

M:Yeah, Yeah,because because IIalways alwaysused used to to feel feel bad.

IIcouldn’t brand-newAbercrombie Abercrombiejeans jeansand and couldn’t afford afford the the brand-new IIalways me sustainability sustainability always had had to to thrift. thrift. My My aunt aunt taught taught me initiatives from the thestart startand andby byfollowing followingthrough through with initiatives from with them, I realized there were so many garments out there them, I realized there were so many garments out there already can continue continueto tobe beininuse. use. already that that can K: effort!

How did the evolve into a K:AAfamily family effort!

How didrealization the realization business? evolve into a business?

M: none of of the M:AAcouple coupleof ofyears yearsago ago in inquarantine, quarantine, when when none studios were open, the studios were open, I had all these school projects Idue. hadIall these projects I was like, what do was like,school what do I do at due. this point?

Everything Iwas do at this point?

Everything was shut down. shut down.

I was at my parent’s house andIIwas hadat my parent’s house and I had all these clothes.

I still all these clothes. I still liked them and they were all liked them and they that wereI all that I Igot from good materials gotgood from materials the thrift store. started the thrift store.upI started cutting things up and making cutting things and making final projects just from final projects from myduring scrapsthe andsummer, waste. And during my scraps andjust waste.

And I kept the summer, I kepta doing bought a serger to start doing it. I bought serger it. to Istart doing contrast doing contrast stitching.

That the best I found stitching.

That was the best waywas I found was way getting was getting those like four stitches in to make sure those like four stitches in to make sure everything’s everything’s really durable.

People were like,make oh my really durable.

People were like, oh my gosh, megosh, make one. In September, launched my 21st one. Inme September, I launchedI 707 on my707 21ston birthday. birthday.

I started really experimenting Basically, Basically, I started really experimenting with what Iwith can what I can do with everything around me and preventing do with everything around me and preventing it from itgoing frominto going into a landfill. a landfill.

K: your personal stylestyle evolved since since getting into K:How Howhas has your personal evolved the sustainable space? getting into the sustainable space?

M: that II will will M:I’m I’mdefinitely definitelyvery verypicky pickyabout about the the brands brands that buy from.

If a brand claims to be sustainable, I’ll do buy from. If a brand claims to be sustainable, I’ll do some researchand andsee. see.At Atthis thispoint, point,ififI’m I’m going goingto tobuy buy some research something new,itithas hastotobebesosoinsane insane and on-brand something new, and soso on-brand forfor me and my morals to even think about it.

I’m only really me and my morals to even think about it. I’m only really buying piecesthat thatIIcan canthink thinkofof longevity longevitywith withorormaybe maybe buying pieces invest in now now and andturn turnitit into intosomething. something. invest in

K: you describe youryour aesthetic?

If yourIf your K:How Howwould would you describe aesthetic? designs a room with others, howhow would we know designswere wereinin a room with others, would we which piece is a 707 original? know which piece is a 707 original?

M: garmentsand and707 707isisvery verymuch much M:I Ilike likewell-constructed well-constructed garments opposite of that. that.It’s It’s deconstructed deconstructedyet yetconstructed constructed opposite of in in a a specific way.

You know it’s mine because of the contrast specific way. You know it’s mine because of the contrast stitching andthe thepeople peoplelooking looking asking how is that stitching and atat it it asking how is that on body? What What is is that? that? How How did did you you put putthat thaton? on?It’s on her her body?

It’s questionable it’s experimental, and that’s questionable and and it’s experimental, and that’s what what makes makes it stand out.

The colors and the contrast stitch with it stand out. The colors and the contrast stitch with all of all my hanging threads andlike stuff likeI think that. Ithat’s thinkwhat that’s myofhanging threads and stuff that. what 707 out stand outother fromupcycling other upcycling makesmakes 707 stand from brands brands as well is is the the strings stringsand andthe thedrippiness drippiness the as well ofofthe garment. madeititthat that garment. II intentionally intentionally made way.

I’m like, way. I’m like, rip rip them! them! That’s That’saapart part of It’s an an interactive interactive of the the process. process. It’s garment that fits to garment that fits to your your body. body.

K: dodo you seesee thethe fashion K:Where Where you fashion world in the future? world in the future?

M: route M:I Ireally reallyhope hopeititcontinues continues on on this this route towards moresustainability. sustainability.Especially Especially towards more with all of upcyclistsand andall allofof with all of these these upcyclists these brands all around the world who these brands all around the world who do focus on onthis thisand andcreate createnew newfrom fromthe theold. old. do focus Nicole and she’s she’s iconic. iconic.

Nicole McLaughlin McLaughlin isis an an upcyclist upcyclist and She really just makes you think, She really just makes you think, what elsecould couldthis thisbe? be?I Ireally reallythink thinkbrands brands what else need to look lookat ateverything everythinginintheir theirproduction production need to process andall allof of their their waste wasteaspects aspectsand and process and be like, what what else elsecan canthis thisbe betoto be like, prevent fromgoing goingtotoaalandfill? landfill? prevent itit from That’s how we’re going to stop the That’s how we’re going to stop the fashion carbon footprint from progressing. fashion carbon footprint from progressing.

K: way!

K: InIna afun fun way!

M: M: InInaafun funway, way,yeah! yeah!IfIfyou youtruly truly are and aa designer, designer,each each are aa creative creative and thing you do doisisgoing goingtotobebeaesthetically aesthetically brand thing you onon brand for you shouldn’t shouldn’tbe bescared scaredofofsharing sharingthis thisknowledge. for you, you, so so you knowledge. why I think cantender do this.loving My care That’s why IThat’s think anybody cananybody do this. My tender loving care will not be the same as that of another will not be the same as that of another brand. I hope brands brand.

I hope brands continue toinitiatives. look into sustainable continue to look into sustainable initiatives.

K: you come up up with K:How Howdid did you come with the brand? the name nameofofyour your brand?

M: M:I Ikept keptseeing seeing 7:07am 7:07am or or 7:07pm.

7:07pm. ItIt was was everywhere. everywhere.

It became an angel number to me.

I started thinking, It became an angel number to me. I started thinking, 707CLOTHINGHEAVEN, this place wherewhere all of these 707CLOTHINGHEAVEN, this place all of garments get reincarnated and turned something these garments get reincarnated andinto turned into new and they have this space to live.

The name’s kind something new and they have this space to live.

The of long kind but Iof dolong think it can played a little with bit name’s but I dobe think it canwith be played which excitedI’m about, especially for brandfor expansion. a little I’m bit which excited about, especially brand My logo is of a little angel holding a t-shirt with the expansion. My logo is of a little angel holding a t-shirt squiggles and contrast stitching. with the squiggles and contrast stitching.

K: What are your goals going forward?

M: I’m scared to be off brand for me and stray from my hardcore morals and values. I know the bigger I get, the harder that’s going to be.

I want to stay little for me right now, but that also could create more exclusivity. My pieces are one-of-one, they’re special. I also have this hope where I could pop around from all these different brands and say, give me all your waste.

I did that with Deviant Clothing, they asked me to make a large curtain. They’re like, here’s all of our scrap fabrics and I made something out of it. Then I made a rug and stuffed it with all the serger remnants. What if I went around all these brands, and was like, hey, give me all your fabric waste. I’ll make some cool stuff for you. I want to be responsible for other brand’s waste and I want them to have enough confidence in me to take care of it. What if there’s many people who could do this? In this large world, in ten years, imagine we all have these little fashion waste robots that come around and take that week’s waste, like a little me in every city, upcycling all these brand’s waste and creating something new.

That’s what I dream of.

K: Do you think you’ll stay in a sustainable slash upcycling fashion?

M: I certainly see forever. I get so overwhelmed with passion talking about not buying fast fashion that I get into fights with people. Don’t talk to me about this unless you want a research paper on it because I do know facts. At this point, I can’t go back on it now; I can’t be a hypocrite. That’s honestly my biggest fear. I’m open with my production process and what I’m doing to best be sustainable and to be zero waste. I want to broadcast that and if anybody has any other ways to help and be more sustainable, I’m open. Let’s share the educational resources that are out there in order to get better. I think that’s the only way the fashion industry will ever progress.

K: What advice would you have for somebody who’s thinking about getting into upcycling?

M: Just experiment and stay true to yourself. Make things that you would want to wear, that’s always my backup. It’s like, what if no one likes this? Well, I do, so it’s not going to waste! Keep yourself in mind and your aesthetic in mind because there are many brands that are upcycling and there are many people that are out there doing this. You can draw inspiration from these people but don’t actually copy and reproduce their work. That’s not okay. Stay true to yourself and be grateful for the people around you that supported you from the beginning because those are the people that are going to come back and support you for the rest of the way. Maintain those relationships with the people around you. I put in hours of work and you have to be prepared to do that. My back hurts when I’m sitting for hours and it’s frustrating when I break machines and I have to sit there for hours trying to fix it. You have to be ready for all of the ups and downs as well.

T HE

PLACE WHERE

director: lexi ciagne interview: Kseniya Lukiyphoto: Jac &Gabi

Creative Direction Lexi Ciagne Photo Jaclyn Iskow, Gabi Sirkaite Writer Kseniya Lukiy

BLAH BLAH BLAH

DEAD ARE

GARMEN T S

BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH 707

CLOT HINGHEAVEN 09.2020 -

Experimental, 1-of-1, up-cycled clothing handmade in Detroit.

director: lexi ciagne interview: Kseniya Lukiyphoto: Jac &Gabi

Heidelberg Project. Detroit, MI

REINCARNATED.

what should YOU upcycle?

It isn’t a secret, anyone can do it. Let’s get you a new, sustainable hobby and revamped outfit all in one.

Now, where to start...

*

Best era of music?

A. 1970s B. 2000s C. Today’s

Do you like change?

A. Of course, change is essential B. No ahh C. It depends on what’s changing…

Your friends would describe you as…

A. The Life of the party, up for anything B. The Go-To, reliable and wise C. The Hippie, no drama just vibes

Have you ever dyed your hair a wild color?

A. To blue and back, baby B. Do highlights count?

C. I want to!

If you were to be sat in front of a sewing machine…

A. I’d give it a shot, why not?

B. Like a cook in a kitchen.

C. They still make those?

Finish the sentence: I A. love to experiment with current trends.

B. tend to do my own thing, I’m my own muse.

C. try my best to keep up with trends, they can be fun.

Do you believe in mermaids?

A. Absolutely.

B. No, that’s silly C. Can’t rule it out!

How would you describe your problem-solving approach?

A. Chaotic yet efficient!

B. Steady and Methodically C. I like to approach each situation differently

Nights out vs Nights in A. Out in the town B. Namaste in bed C. I go with the flow, whatever my friends want to do

Mostly A’s Dress it Up. You’re up for anything, especially if it’ll land you the best outfit in the room. It may take some practice, but try revamping a patterned top into a trendy two piece or cutout dress. Snip it in half, add some spice, make it your own and bam! You’ve got your dream dress. Your energy is vibrant, eccentric, daring, and one of a kind - transfer that spunk into your next fashion adventure… only you could pull it off.

Mostly B’s Anything Denim.

You can take on anything. Just like denim - you’re reliable, hardworking, and versatile. Patch it. Fray it. Paint it. If a snip of scissors can transform old torn up jeans into a new pair of shorts and sewing some tulle to the hem of a denim skirt can become your latest statement piece, then why not take on upcycling? You’re a quicklearning creative that can solve any puzzle that comes their way… so make some fun out of it. Or at least an outfit.

Mostly C’s Gotta Accessorize.

Throw you into any situation, environment, or group of people and you’ll do just fine. You’re everybody’s favorite for a reason, you’re adaptable, easy-going, and fun to be around. Similarly to how accessories are fun to play with and elevate any outfit. Next time you need a distraction, therapeutic activity, or a statement piece, let your imagination play within your accessories - perhaps bedazzling a plain hat, tweaking some outdated jewelry, or putting some old buttons to use - do your thing.

STEP 1:1: STEP Identify what it means to be a

Identify what it means sustainable brand. toA be ethicalbrand should trulyan sustainable encompass protections for both people brand.

Aand truly the ethical brandThis should encompass planet. means that the protections for both people and the clothes should be manufactured in a way planet. This means that the clothes that does not harm the environment, is should be manufactured in a way that free not from by-products, and does harmanimal the environment, is free from animal by-products, and ensures ensures fair labor standards. Although it fair labor standards. Although it is hard is hard to tell whether a brand is 100% to tell whether a brand is 100% ethical, ethical, we as consumers are responsible we as consumers are responsible for places we shopwe from ensuring that the for ensuring that the places shop check all of these boxes.boxes. from check all of these

STEP STEP 2:2: Check the the transparency.

Check Does the website have a page transparency.

dedicated to detailing the materials used and the Does the website have a page fair labor to standards Or are dedicated detailingenforced? the materials they extremely vague as tostandards how they they use and the fair labor enforced? Ortheir are they extremely manufacture clothes?

Always look vague as to how they manufacture for how transparent the brand is, and if it their clothes? Always look for how does not disclose any is, information on transparent the brand and if it does how/ where/ by whom the clothes are not disclose any information on how/ where/ then by whom are made, there the is aclothes high chance that a high chance made, then there is the brand is not actually sustainable. that the brand is not actually ethical.

By Elsie Shi

STEP 3: STEP 3:

Research!!!

Research!!! detailing its sustainable

If a brand does contain a page practices and is If a brand does contain a page seemingly transparent, take revealing it with a its grain of salt.practices It might be to sustainable andnecessary is seemingly conduct research outside of the transparent, take it with a grain of salt. It brand’s website in consideration of might be necessary to conduct research aspects that brands usually don’t outside of the brand’s website in usually publish. consideration of additional factors that Check the materials

brands usually don’t publish.

A website should use sustainable Materials

fabrics that include: A website should use sustainable fabrics that include: Linen Linen Hemp Hemp Bamboo Bamboo Organic cotton Organic cotton Modal fabrics (rayon and Tencel) Modal fabrics (rayon and Tencel) Pineapple leather Pineapple leather Organic wool Organic wool Upcycled materials Upcycled materials It should be AVOIDING materials such It should be AVOIDING materials such as: as: Polyester Polyester Leather Leather Cotton (conventional) Cotton (conventional) Nylon Nylon

STEP 4: Use websites that rate brands on sustainability.

Most of us have busy lives and don’t always have the time to do the research to determine whether a brand is ethical.

Luckily, there are websites that can do the job for us. GoodonYou is a site that rates brands on their impact on workers (people), their resource use and waste management (planet), and their animal welfare policies (animals). You can find virtually any brand on the website, from activewear to accessories to shoes. Not only does GoodonYou delve into the brand’s degree of sustainability from reliable sources such as the Fashion Transparency Index and CDP Climate Change and Water Security Projects, but it also rates affordability.

STEP 6: Invest in long-term wear.

The ever-moving pace of the fashion industry makes it tempting to grab onto the next trendy piece. It’s important to remember, though, that these items, which often sell for suspiciously low are poor quality and likely to become damaged in a few months. Reject fast fashion trends that would inevitably result in throwing away clothes, and instead invest in a few basics or items that suit your personal style. Regardless, make sure it’s high-quality.

STEP 7: STEP 5: Shop locally.

One of the best ways to shop ethically is to shop locally. This way, you are supporting small businesses that are much more likely to use ethical practices.

Further, if these businesses are using deadstock, it is more likely that the fabric is high quality and there is minimal overproduction and fabric waste.

Just stop shopping (as much).

It seems harder than it actually is.

Personally, however, I have made the commitment starting in the beginning of the year to stop buying retail clothes, at least from large merchandisers, and instead opt for secondhand clothes.

Ideally, I try not to consume at all. So far, it's been helping both the planet and my wallet. Shopping second-hand allows you to find unique pieces that can differentiate your style from others, while also being sustainable. Most people own at least a few quality basics that they can rewear without short-term wear down, so styling these pieces with thrifted clothes or pieces borrowed from relatives or friends can still make up a fresh wardrobe— with some creativity.

The Tangled Predicament of Crochet Kaelin Acken

Looking for a new going out top that no one else will be wearing? Or a matching set for your upcoming vacation? Or maybe a new go-to sweater for your everyday wear? Look no further than your own two hands.

Crocheting is an affordable, easy-to-pick-up hobby that’s great for building creativity and will set your outfits apart from everyone else’s. Not only will a handmade, crochet garment be a unique addition to a wardrobe, it’s also a great way to stay sustainable and avoid fast fashion.

With summer right around the corner, crochet is back and better than ever. The 70s free spirit vibe is back in style with the revival of crochet, as many popular retail brands introduce new crochet garments. Yet, if purchasing crochet clothes this summer, it’s important to know the consumer ethics of buying crochet.

Here’s the issue: it is simply impossible to make crochet garments at an industrial level. The beautiful intricacy of crochet garments stems from their handmade origins. Unlike knitting or sewing, crochet is a single needle process that a machine simply cannot replicate. Crochet has to be made by a human. Many fast fashion crochet garments are produced in dangerous and underpaid labor conditions and designs are ripped off of small, independent crochet artists.

Additionally, fast fashion crochet prioritizes efficiency over quality.

Cheap crochet is not made to last and will likely begin to wear and tear with use, inevitably contributing to the 21 billion tons of textiles that end up in landfills each year.

So beware - when fast fashion brands like Shein, Zara, Forever 21, and most popular retail stores advertise crochet garments at low prices, think about where they came from.

The labor put into a single crochet garment is more lengthy than any other structure of clothing. Fast fashion brands famously underpay their laborers, especially for the time and skill it takes to make a crochet garment.

So you want to participate in the crochet trend…

Here’s how to do it ethically: The best option is to pick up crocheting yourself! Making your own crochet garments is arguably the best solution to the crochet dilemma. It keeps the art form alive while enabling creatives to make clothes that are unique and expensive looking at a low cost. You can easily pick up a new skill and upgrade your wardrobe!

I personally picked up crocheting about two years ago when I saw a photo of Harry Styles circulating on social media dressed in a JW Anderson patchwork crochet sweater. I was immediately obsessed with it. So obsessed that when I found out it was nearly $2,000, I stubbornly decided I could just make it myself.

And so I did. It took a few months and a few hundred youtube videos, but I made that sweater and many more. The joy of making your own clothes is unparalleled, it is a sense of pride that goes beyond just picking out a good outfit in the morning.

If you lack the time to pick up crocheting, the next best option is to purchase from independent crochet artists! These small businesses can be found on platforms like Instagram, Etsy, or Depop. Supporting small businesses like these is also more eco-conscious as you are able to know the exact source of labor for each garment.

So when you’re lounging on the beach or if you have some downtime this summer, maybe pick up a new hobby of crocheting and elevate your wardrobe. But by the same token, when browsing for new clothes this summer, be sure to steer clear of fast fashion crochet.

‘

META

AMORPHOSIS

DIRECTOR SOPHIE ALPHONSO STYLISTS EMILY HAYMAN TAVLEEN GILL SHARIFA DOUDI PHOTOGRAPHER ALEX KIM ANNA FUDER zAHARIA JORDON VIDEOGRAPHER RILEY KISSER GRAPHIC DESIGNER MARGARET LAAKSO MODELS TEMITOPE

Creative Direction Lexi Ciagne Photo Lauren Snyder Co-Writer Destiny Washington

you’re invited

d

To a

Rebirthday Party

The Gift of Secondhand Shopping.

It may just look like an endless row of t-shirts, worn-out shoes, dusty books, and a whole lot of miscellaneous, but isn’t that what makes it all the more a treasure hunt? Each and every secondhand apparel shop, big or small, near or far, is filled to the brim with stories and characters with time well spent and ready for more. Let’s celebrate the festivity of breathing new life into the one-of-a-kind…this calls for a party!

A Rebirthday party?

Like Gatsby, Earth invites everyone to these parties, and your mere conscious presence is the chicest manifestation of a bright, refashionable future. It will be said for decades to come that your shining self was the life of the party, as your positive shopping habits and unique outfits reverberated throughout the room and our planet.

Your Character’s Style Curation Traits Visionary: Thrifting liberates your freedom to envision your character’s style in a variety of stories. You see beyond the infinite racks of used goods as infinite options, igniting an immersive adventure. It takes a visionary to ask questions that challenge their outerworld and inner-stylist to consciously reimagine their aesthetic holistically. Can you see beyond momentary merchandising and towards bigger, greener lifetimes?

Adventurous: In this story, you are the main character, always aboard preloved treasure hunts or attending re-birthday parties. Peek beyond contemporary racks, defy the walls of the malls, meet unparalleled characters, relive history, and be intertwined in this fashion loop.

Adventures can be found wherever you go, from reviving a pair of vintage jeans to hunting down the perfect antique necklace. Yet, what stories will be told and which memories will be made along the way?

Artistic: An artist sees their style as the ultimate blank canvas, in which they can paint with the finest handpicked, eccentric tools. They see the poetry within immersing themself into apparel pieces that have lived to tell the tale and romanticize the experience as a whole. Artistics strive to inspire. Surfacing this mindset will ignite an insightful soul to channel your creative spirits in a conscious fashion.

Sage: What might this conscious character ask itself?

Second-hand shopping is your character’s chance to be self-reliant—a privilege even in this shiny, modern world. Whereas fast fashion pushes a look to adopt, a room bustling of strangers’ leftover energy engages the essence of your own character like no other. This confident, elevated shopper paves their own way, transcends trends, and is a natural muse. The cake tastes better when you bake it yourself and don’t a wise man know it.

ReBirthday Party/A Guide 01. Stay Goal-Oriented.

Heaps of preloved treasures can get overwhelming. Keep in mind trends you have been wanting to recreate, pieces you already own and can work off of, or what you may rewear for years to come. You can almost always find items sitting in your fast fashion shopping carts at second hand stores.

No shame in pulling out pinterest boards, photos of your closet, whatever works for you.

02. Dress 2 Undress.

Don’t take dressing rooms for granted as most shops don’t have any… Big or small, the

best you may get is a mirror in the corner - don’t be afraid to use them! This shouldn’t be a problem if you wear clothes that are easy to slip over or layer onto. It is important to take the time to check out your clothes, never assume that the staff has taken into account all wear and tear.

03. Don’t be shy.

Friendships come in all forms, sometimes a pair of vintage jeans, a store employee, or a building itself. We don’t judge.

Nourish your relationships with your favorite secondhand shops for access to exclusive perks. Get to know which days they restock for fresh picks or join their push notifications for each and every sale, event, or

update. Remember that you don’t choose the shop, the shop chooses you.

04. Play Detective.

As much as we love the eco-friendly benefits to secondhand, less rebuying is the ultimate goal. Select styles and materials that not only stick around, but quench your shopping thirst for a while. Look for well sewn seams and check fabric content to eye out solid, durable brands (make anything 100% cashmere, silk, and wool yours!). When in doubt, Google.

Volunteers of America, East Lansing MI

Glam Evan Yalowitz Style Lexi Ciagne, Haley Poag

Moral of the Story As brands compete over who writes the next chapter of fashion, the balance of ecological systems that support such production and competition are threatened…

With each gem that we unearth in local thrift-shops or preloved piece we adopt, our character strikes down negative environmental impacts from production to disposal. So, props to you in any attempt to balance self-expression with ecofriendly integrity in this challenging and fabulously obnoxious material world.

If you’re new to all this, next time you’re looking for a vintage graphic tee or a personality rich accessory, make an adventure out of it and enjoy the pre-loved ride. Treat your clothing with love to keep them around longer. Shop smart, Mother Nature will love you for it. Birthday party optional.

Care Guide To Longevity Written by Izabela Sanchez Designed by Kaelin Acken

To dress sustainably, forgoing clothes may be the most accessible choice. Another alternative is to consume less by outfit repeating, rewearing outfits rather than buying new clothes. Outfit repeating can be fun; you can play around with layering and accessories to spice the lookup. The fashion industry has been greenwashed by falsely labeled “sustainable” businesses. By utilizing loopholes in the term sustainable, they mislead consumers into thinking they are buying sustainably, when that is just simply not the truth. Doing more research into the brand is highly advised. A quick solution to reduce your footprint in the fashion industry is to shop less and utilize what you already own. We can achieve longevity through taking proper care of our clothes.

This article will give you the tools and tips to take care of the clothes in your closet, promote durability and longevity, and teach you what being a conscious consumer is all about. More than ever, it's time to romanticize taking care of your clothes.

A general rule of thumb is to skip the dryer, hang dry your clothes, and use the old-fashioned way of drying on a clothing line. Your grandparents probably know a thing or two about this. According to Reformation,

Up to two-thirds of clothing’s carbon footprint occurs after taking it home.

Interestingly, standard tumble dryers emit 40 million tons of carbon dioxide in the US each year. While washing, another practice to utilize is switching from hot water to cold, which stimulates the reduction of CO2 output. In addition, turning your clothes inside out can avoid wear and tear during the washing process. Another approach you could consider is skipping the washer altogether. Sure, hand washing clothes can be a time-consuming task amidst a chaotic schedule, but it is one of the best methods for keeping your clothes looking brand new. Romanticize this activity by putting on your favorite playlist as you dance around the laundry to make it more enjoyable. If time feels like the ultimate issue, spot cleaning is an alternative and potentially your greatest ally in keeping your clothes in tip-top shape.

Instead of washing the entire article of clothing, you could consider simply cleaning the dirty spot or adding a favorite scent to your drawers to keep your clothes smelling fresh.

Stains are bound to happen, but it doesn't mean you have to part ways with your favorite piece of clothing.

Acting fast and knowing how to deal with pesky stains is crucial to keeping your clothes looking spiffy.

Ensure that you wash stains out as soon as possible, especially before hanging garments in the closet.

According to studies, the longer you take to remove a stain, the slimmer the possibility of completely removing it. The first step to getting rid of the stain is to soak the article of clothing in cold water, followed by wetting a towel and putting a tablespoon of dish detergent on it. Afterward, apply an additional cloth

underneath the stain. To remove the blemish, repeatedly press on it. Suppress the temptation to rub, or else the fabric could acquire damage. Before tossing the stained fabric in the laundry, let it sit overnight.

Suppose washing your clothes is not the most enjoyable activity for you, but you’d like to do your part in having a low carbon and fashion impact. Luckily, there is always the option of taking your garments to a professional dry cleaner that offers green dry cleaning, where they use water as the central agent.

Unfortunately, perchloroethylene, the leading chemical agent used in dry-cleaning, is a poisonous substance that can cause liver and respiratory complications. It could also contaminate groundwater and pollute the air. In reality, it’s scary. Although some cleaners may portray themselves as "green" or using "clean" products, we encourage you to ask about certain chemicals such as perchloroethylene or hydrocarbons. You want to avoid these toxic chemicals since they are harmful to your clothes and overall health.

And, of course, with bathing suit season right around the corner, we must know how to take care of our swimwear. Bathing suits are one of the most unsustainable articles because they are predominately made of plastic-based fibers. Synthetic materials, such as nylon, polyester, and spandex are ideal for swimwear because they dissipate moisture, reducing friction abrasion in the water. Also, they are cheap to produce and multifunctional, contributing to the fast-fashion industry. Research shows that about

65 million tons of these plasticconstructed compounds are produced annually.

Notably, this is a significant issue, since plastic does not disintegrate. Consequently, it ends up in our landfills and oceans, adding to the 8 billion tons of plastic already on the earth. These microplastics not only affect humans, but innocent species are affected as well.

Plastic is generated from fossil fuels, emitting carbon dioxide into our atmosphere and increasing climate change. The answer to this problem is to properly take care of the bathing suits you already own. Many are unaware of how damaging chlorine and saltwater can be to swimwear since they deteriorate the elastic and fibers. Generally, your suits should be soaked in water after usage and hand-washed with gentle detergent. Remember, styles are circular and always come back, so hold on to your bathing suits. Besides, it’s always amusing to stray from current trends to create your own look; it makes you unique. Stay true to yourself while keeping the health of the planet in mind.

Keeping your clothes in good condition begins with adequately storing them. Only use high-quality hangers, such as wood. Hanging clothes in your

closet enables garments to preserve their shape and avoid wrinkles. Similarly, try to avoid using wired and plastic hangers. For those heavier items, you'll want to roll them in a drawer or on a shelf to maintain their shape. A common issue with storing your garments is moths or bugs that may look to them as a source of food. Cedar balls are a great investment to keep bugs from feeding on your clothes. Storage is a vital aspect in the longevity of your clothes. Thus, you must take the proper measures to ensure that they stay in good condition.

If you want to save money, help the planet by lowering your impact, and keep your favorite clothes. These methods will ensure your success.

Stray away from the norm while regarding the health of our earth. Your actions create an impact, and most importantly, You are significant.

f o e t a t S e c a r G

They were born during a state of grace and left barefoot on the shore, leaving a wake in the ebb and flow of the blushing current.

Their dresses were sewn from tulle and dyed by gentle hands in spring, between the rain and wind of day and the still moon of night.

They lay and listen to the subtle crushing of stems that rise from the ground like music, then watch the reborn buds stand before hit with sentient winds that put the new back into motion.

Spring is the stillness of an inhale and the chaos of a release, a tender dichotomy of life reflected in any new season.

Creative Direction Kseniya Lukiy Photo Lily Foley Beauty Olivia Simone Ev Campau Fashion Vera Lukiy Models Erica Igwe Raenu Charles Kseniya Lukiy Designer Alex Andersen Writer Kseniya Lukiy

FROM TEXTILE MILLS TO DESIGNERS: THE ETHICS OF DEADSTOCK

By Elsie Shi

Recently, major brands including Dior, Celine, and Fendi, to name a few, have taken to selling their deadstock fabric on Nona Source, a resale platform funded

by Louis Vuitton-owner LVMH. The demand for deadstock ascended at the start of the pandemic, which saw a complete shutdown of supply chains, forcing the fashion industry to reevaluate its inner workings like never before. Representing 15 percent of textile production and amounting to an annual loss of a whopping $152 billion, deadstock, or fabric waste, has become a solution for companies looking to reassess their business models in the push for more sustainable practices.

What is deadstock?

Contrary to widespread belief, deadstock is not exclusive to wasted fabric left over from errors in the manufacturing process. While the term used to specifically describe damaged or flawed fabric, its definition recently extended to include any kind of surplus fabric from clothing production.

As Rina Singh, a New Delhi-based designer behind the upcycled label Eka, describes, “deadstock refers to unsold inventory, which often gets accumulated when the projection of sales does not match the actual turnover.” This could be due to small damages, such as a mistake in fabric dyeing, to a simple overestimation of the amount of fabric needed.

Where does deadstock go?

Given the amount of fabric waste that contributes to pollution, it’s typically assumed that most deadstock ends up in landfills. While this is sometimes true, the leftover fabric is more often incinerated, especially when it comes to luxury fashion brands. In 2018, for example, Burberry was exposed for destroying $38 million of unsold clothing and accessories. More recently, in October of last year, a viral TikTok video displayed a stream of Coach handbags that had been slashed at the front, exposing the luxury brand’s demolition of unsold inventory. Because these labels wish to keep their high-value textiles exclusive, they often destroy their deadstock to either meet brand protection rules or prevent competitors from gaining access to their fabric.

"Deadstock refers to unsold inventory, which often gets accumulated when the projection of sales does not match the actual turnover.” -Rina Singh for Vogue As terrible as this sounds, companies do have a strong incentive to keep some of their deadstock instead of destroying it.

This has to do with its profitability. The clothing manufacturing process, which includes dyeing, knitting, weaving, and printing, requires great amounts of energy from both the complex machines used and the workers who have to operate them. Just turning the machines off alone can be extremely costly and time-consuming, not to mention preparing them for the following set of fabric. It’s much cheaper for mills and factories to overproduce fabric than shut their machines off once the initial order is complete. The leftover fabric becomes profitable as it can be sold at a discounted price to small brands or start-up labels.

It might be more fitting to rather label this fabric as available stock since its production is deliberate. Available stock, as opposed to deadstock, refers to fabric that is meant to be overproduced because factories believe in its ability to be sold later on. When selling leftover fabric, factories claim that they are selling “deadstock”, since they know it will appeal to brands or designers who will use the term to assert that they are sustainable.

When mills and factories are left with huge amounts of fabric, some of it inevitably won’t be sold due to the fast pace of the fashion industry. In this case, the surplus of textiles goes to jobbers, workers who take these fabrics and mark them up for a premium to sell to individual designers or small businesses.

Because overproducing fabric is so costeffective, factories plan to have leftover fabric upon fulfilling an order. They calculate beforehand which percentage is sold at full price and which percentage is sold at a discount. The purposeful creation of fabric waste brings into question whether or not brands that claim to be upcycling deadstock fabric are actually sustainable.

Is deadstock ethical? Or is it just greenwashing?

Because most deadstock is produced intentionally, it cannot be considered part of the secondhand economy. When sustainable brands are sourcing their materials from deadstock, they are often buying into the vicious cycle of overproduction. Rising demand for deadstock can, in turn, fuel the production of new textiles, which is severely detrimental to both the global environment and marginalized workers.

This is a case of “moral hazard.” The assumption that leftover fabric will always be reused could incite the belief that the environmental consequences of overproduction are less severe.

Consequently, high-end brands often responsible for textile waste could feel less of a responsibility to ensure their practices are environmentally conscious, resulting in greater and greater mass production of fabric.

Furthermore, when a company claims to be “eco-friendly” simply because it uses deadstock, it’s most likely exaggerating how sustainable it is. California retailer Everlane, for example, markets itself with “radical transparency”, claiming to disclose the accurate costs behind its materials, wages, and transportation.

However, a deeper dive into the brand’s practices reveals no evidence of the minimization of textile waste or elimination of harmful chemicals, and ultimately, an inability to trace materials. As Lizzie Widdicombe wrote in the New Yorker, “In some ways, the most radical thing about Everlane is its marketing.” A lack of transparency makes it difficult to tell whether an “ecoconscious” brand like Everlane and fast fashion brands are using the same material. Self-proclaimed eco-friendly companies could be exploiting the lack of knowledge on the consumer’s end to market their clothes at an unaffordable price under the guise of sustainability.

What are the positives?

While this problem has more to do with the profit-driven nature of the fashion industry, deadstock by itself is not inherently unsustainable. If a company were to produce new fabric as opposed to sourcing deadstock, it would inevitably end up creating more fabric waste.

For small businesses that are just starting, deadstock is appealing since it’s a great option to save money, as new fabric is always more expensive than leftover fabric. More importantly, because independent brands are often self-funded, they don’t have the incentive to buy any excess fabric that they don’t need.

Natalia Trevino, a small independent designer with an eponymous brand, decided to initially use deadstock for financial reasons like so many others: “Since there’s so much [deadstock] being produced, there’s no need to be buying anything new when there’s already so much.” Trevino sources her deadstock from various places, including FabScrap, FabCycle, and a Thrifty Notion, which are textile- recycling services that sell small quantities of fabrics that anyone can donate to. Her preferred method is to source her materials in person from stores in LA that sell deadstock or find individuals on Etsy who sell leftover fabric after completing their projects.

How deadstock sustainable

brands

can

be

The shift to upcycling deadstock is inarguably a better alternative to using new fabric, despite the potential pitfalls.

It is now not a question of whether brands are using deadstock, but how they are using it, that determines if they are truly sustainable. Singh says that her brand “work[s] closely with stores to generate a consistent cycle of business to avoid overestimating sales and producing additional inventory.” At Eka, fabric and yarn scraps are used for plastic-free packaging, as well as tags and bags. London- based designer Daniel W. Fletcher uses even the smallest remnants of fabric for his designs: “A lot of our garments have pieces which are barely two-centimeter wide, collected from the floor of our factories.” In addition to repurposing with creativity, it is also important to redirect focus to long-lasting designs and durable, high-quality fabric scraps.

The key to being ethical for deadstock brands is to be completely transparent about their materials, wages, and practices.

Trevino insists that transparency is the “only way to build trust with customers.” If a brand is transparent about where they source their fabrics from or how much they pay their workers, then customers won’t be left in the dark as to whether the price they are paying for clothes is justified or not. To ensure that her brand is transparent, Trevino manages a youtube channel detailing the entire process of making her clothes, explaining, “This is why it’s expensive because of X, Y, Z… I’m not trying to profit off of you, I’m just trying to make a living here.” She believes future generations of increasingly conscious consumers will only demand more transparency.

An alternative solution Deadstock is not the end-all-be-all solution to reaching circular fashion.

Companies that still wish to use new textiles, can convert to a pre-order system, where the amount of clothing produced is known beforehand. The Scandinavian brand Son of a Tailor (SOAT), based in Copenhagen, has opted for this method, utilizing the made-toorder system for their t-shirts and menswear items, even incorporating individual patterns for customers. CEO Jess Fleischer states, “One of the key elements for us is managing customer expectations. When you tell the customer, it will take X amount of time to get your product, then they know upfront.” The pre-order system not only minimizes waste but also requires transparency between the company and the consumer.

For brands looking to switch to a madeto-order system, Fleischer advises, “Try to start in small, easy product categories where you can find a partner to help you: printing on demand, sewing on demand, whatever the case may be.”

The practice of upcycling deadstock is not a perfect solution, especially when considering that the fashion industry is a business first and foremost. But reusing fabric waste doesn’t have to be greenwashed either. Brands themselves must decide whether or not to use deadstock sustainably, and with progressively eco-conscious generations, we must do our part to demand their utmost transparency.

“Try to start in small, easy product categories where you can find a partner to help you: printing on demand, sewing on demand, whatever the case may be.”

- Fleischer for Vogue

1 Chan, Emily. “How the Likes of Loui Vuitton, Dior and Fendi Are Selling On Their Leftover Fabrics.”

Vogue, May 20, 2022, https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/nona-source-deadstock-fabrics 2 Khatib, Hasina. “Why designers are using deadstock and leftover fabrics now more than ever before.”

Vogue, November 26, 2020, https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/why-designers-are-using-deadstock-andleftover-fabrics-more-than-ever-before 3 Pinnock, Olivia. “No One in Fashion is Surprised Burberry Burnt £28 Million of Stock.”

Forbes, July 20, 2018, https://www.forbes.com/sites/oliviapinnock/2018/07/20/no-one-in-fashion-issurprised-burberry-burnt-28-million-of-stock/?sh=601b18924793 4 Cernansky, Rachel. “Why destroying products is still an ‘Everest of a problem’ for fashion.”

Vogue Business, October 18, 2021, https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/why-destroying-products-is-stillan-everest-of-a-problem-for-fashion 5 Widdicombe, Lizzie. “How Everlane Hacked Your Wardrobe.” The New Yorker, September 25, 2017, https://www.newyorker.com/culture/on-and-off-theavenue/how-everlane-hacked-your-wardrobe 6 Norman, Rebecca. “Lack of inventory: The rise of made-to-order brands in the Nordics.”

Vogue Scandinavia, November 1, 2021, https://www.voguescandinavia.com/articles/lack-of-inventory-the-rise-of-madeto-order-brands-in-the-nordics