Traditional Clothing in Castelrotto

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Art historian Christoph Gasser from Siusi allo Sciliar is one of the leading authorities on the traditional costumes.

Traditional Clothing in Castelrotto In Castelrotto, a keen awareness of tradition has formed an equally strong community appreciation of the traditional costume of the area, known as the Tracht. Cultural historian Christoph Gasser is confident that the future of the Tracht is safe in the hands of the coming generations.

T The Heimatpflegeverein Schlern (Sciliar Cultural Heritage Association, tn.) has published a wealth of information on the Tracht, both the men’s and the women’s variants. Christoph Gasser, cultural historian, archivist and director of the Chiusa museum, is the author of a detailed two-volume reference work “Tracht in Kastelruth Ursprünge, Entwicklung und Vielfalt” (“The Tracht in Castelrotto – Origins, Evolution and Variety”), to date available only in German. Gasser, born and bred in Sciliar, where he lives to this day, is considered to be an outstanding expert on the subject.

“As a long-standing member of the Arbeitsgemeinschaft Lebendige Tracht (South Tyrol Local Heritage Society Association for the Preservation of Traditional Clothing, tn.), Christoph Gasser has brought extensive knowledge of the field to this book,” says Chris-

tine Rabanser Rier, chair of the South Tyrol Heritage Society, emphasising the expertise of the author.

ALPE talked to the cultural historian about the origins, the evolution and the future of the Castelrotto Tracht.

ALPE: Dr. Gasser, your two volumes are richly illustrated and describe the various peculiarities of the Castelrotto Tracht in detail. To what end?

Christoph Gasser: The Sciliar Cultural Heritage Association commissioned me to compile a comprehensive documentation on the local Tracht up to the modern day. Until now, traditional passing down of knowledge from one generation to the next has sufficed to keep the Tracht alive as part of everyday life. The aim of this book is to safeguard the

future of the Castelrotto Tracht into the future.

How is the Castelrotto Tracht different from other similar traditional costumes?

The peculiarity of the Castelrotto Tracht is that it has remained very much a living part of the local heritage, and that it has such a range of variety and meanings. Its historic evolution is unique, as unlike in other areas where forerunners have been altered or adapted, the Castelrotto Tracht has, except for a few rare exceptions, remained unchanged and is still worn on »

Interview: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

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With their keen awareness of tradition, the people of Castelrotto keep old customs alive. At a ‘”Castelrotto Farmer’s Wedding” (picture below), the traditional costumes are a sight to behold.

special occasions such as processions and religious festivals.

How is the Tracht different from other rural clothing?

The Tracht is a garment rooted in tradition, with regional features.

All Trachten are the result of longterm evolution. The roots of the Castelrotto Tracht date back to the 17th century, when certain

A two-volume reference work documenting the origins and evolution of the Castelrotto Tracht.

garments signified membership of a brotherhood or a Schützen rifle guild. In the 18th century, due to increasing prosperity, the features of certain clothing styles became ever more mainstream.

The Tracht became an everyday or festival costume of the rural people, not only the nobility.

At what point in history did the Castelrotto Tracht first make an appearance?

Documents tell us that, in 1822, on the occasion of a visit to Bolzano by the Emperor of Austria and the Tsar of Russia, the Castelrotto Standesschützen und Musikbande (The rifle guild and music bands, tn.) and a Castelrotto wedding

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procession of 13 people received the guests. Shortly afterwards, in 1824, Archduke Franz Karl was “introduced” to a Castelrotto wedding procession, also in Bolzano.

Are there also Castelrotto Trachten of more modern origins?

From the 1830s onwards, the “Langbäurischen” loden jackets

for men and the Tücheltrachten apron Trachten in a variety of styles for women appeared as an adjunct to the historical Tracht.

Previously, farming people had had to make it with the materials they manufactured themselves, which included hessian, linen and loden. In later days the rural population were also able to afford more expensive fabrics, such as silk and brocade, which had previously been the exclusive preserve of the moneyed classes.

The Castelrotto Tracht is also very much alive today…

That is partly due to fact that the special dynamics and fondness for the Tracht in our region allow

for innovations and influences to emerge; the tracht is very much a “living” part of our cultural heritage. New Tracht features of the 19th century include, amongst others, the long bridegroom’s wedding cloak and the “Schmelmbn” hat adornment made from dried ears of feather grass. In the 20th century, a form of work-day Tracht for women was also created.

There is an enormous variety of important stylistic elements in the Castelrotto Tracht.

How did they come about?

There are religious and secular events which require a fitting celebration. Processions, weddings, baptisms and first communions, funerals all call for appropriate clothing. In the evolution of the tracht, it was also important to show whether you were single or married, and what role you held in the festivities. The musical bands and the Schützen developed their own version of the Tracht. For everyday life, on the other hand, practical considerations favour plainer fabrics and more comfortable cuts.

How do you see the future of the Castelrotto Tracht?

It seems to me that the keen awareness of tradition in Castelrotto has generated such a strong communal appreciation of the Tracht that it will remain alive and well in the hands of future generations. In the near future, a Tracht museum will be established in Castelrotto, with a Tracht workshop where new Trachten will be made and old Trachten restored.

The Castelrotto farmer women hold regular events on how to care for the Tracht and how to wear it correctly, and they are very well-attended. «

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