ALPE Winter EN 2021/2022

Winter 2021/22

ALPE Seiser Alm Magazine

KASTELRUTH · SEIS AM SCHLERN · SEISER ALM · VÖLS AM SCHLERN · TIERS AM ROSENGARTEN

A quiet walk Snowshoeing in the Tschamin Valley

Winter magic On skis across the Seiser Alm

Flavor Vroni the speck maker

The biggest assortment of wine in South Tyrol and an amazing selection of gin, whisky, grappa and specialities!

Passo Brennero

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Prato Isarco

Bolzano nord BOLZANO Trento/Verona

Castelrotto

Siusi allo Sciliar

Fiè allo Sciliar CARDANO Val d’Ega

TIRES

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BOLZANO Zona Produttiva Cardano 5 39053 Cornedo all’Isarco (BZ) Tel. +39 0471 642 106 winestore.bz

Winestore srl Visit our online shop.

TIRES Via San Giorgio 9 39050 Tires (BZ) Tel. +39 0471 640 008 weindiele.com

Photo: Helmuth Rier

Foreword & Contents

Think positiv!

Dear Guests!

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Lockdown Page 6

The last couple of years have been an emotional whirlwind for all parties: we here, wanting to get everything ready for your perfect holiday and you, being unsure whether or not your holiday would go ahead or not. So little was certain, so much was possible... the sad Covid winter of 2020/2021, when we had such magical snow, but the hotels and ski lift facilities were closed, was followed by a magnificent summer when we welcomed more guests than we have ever seen before. They had the opportunity to relax and recover from the turmoil that corona has caused in so many sectors since the beginning of 2020. And we were delighted to be hosts once again.

Getting to the Dolomites region of the Seiser Alm is easy and, above all, safe from both north and south. Winter sports enthusiasts and holidaymakers are overjoyed to return here in winter: We have so much to offer young, active guests and families who, in these uncertain times, prefer a break “around the corner” rather than in far-flung lands.

Epidemic-wise, we began our preparations for winter 2021/2022 with a stable outlook and are anticipating a glorious winter ahead. With the “Green Pass” and compliance with safety regulations (distancing, masks etc.) to help matters along, fun in the snow should be possible. Hiking, skiing, snowboarding, sledging, ice skating… nothing can stand in the way of healthy outdoor activity. The Seiser Alm is a winning combination of vast open space, predominantly good weather and numerous chair and ski lifts.

Winter Magic on the Seiser Alm

And ALPE, our Seiser Alm magazine, in its customary high quality, is filled with all the latest news from the Dolomites region, articles about people and places, and a wealth of tips for your relaxing holiday in the snow.

The telemark athlete Raphael Mahlknecht

We are delighted to welcome you (back) and wish you a relaxing break. Stay healthy!

Tisens and the St. Nicholas Church

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On smooth ice at the Völser Weiher lake Page 17

Getting around safely in winter Page 20

Treading softly through the snow in the Tschamin Valley Page 24

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Schlernsaxess – Four saxophones and a drum Page 34

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Culinary artisan: Vroni the speck maker Page 43

Vroni’s favourite places Page 44

The South Tyrolean Marende Page 46

Preview Winter Page 48

Highlights Summer 2022 Helmut Mitterstieler President of Seiser Alm Marketing and the Tourist Offices of Kastelruth, Seis am Schlern, Völs am Schlern, Seiser Alm and Tiers am Rosengarten

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Arount & about

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Lockdown Shut off from the outside world, we spent the Corona Winter of 2020/2021 in the Dolomites region Seiser Alm bereft of holiday guests or visitors. The ski lifts lay idle all winter, and the hotels were closed. The snow blanketed Seiser Alm provided local winter enthusiasts with an utterly unique experience: Those who could made their way uphill on foot and gloried in fabulous descents through the deep snow of empty slopes.

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Europe’s largest mountain pasture is a paradise for skiers and winter fans.

The beautiful scenery and vast expanses are breathtaking.

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Winter Magic on the Seiser Alm The facilities on offer on the Seiser Alm are developing at a gentle, steady pace.

With over 80 years of history on its back, the Seiser Alm ski resort now welcomes its youngest “child”: The newly installed Bambi Lift.

W When you look down upon the Seiser Alm from up on high during the summer months, you can barely imagine that this vast, sprawling landscape in the heart of the Dolomites is such a variety-packed ski resort. And yet, the elevation difference between the mountain and valley station of the ski lifts ranges from 1,680 to 2,203 metres and the hilly landscape of Europe’s largest mountain plateau provides an abundance of space for wide slopes. The view of the majestic Dolomites is open and unfettered, and in one single day, skiers can make their way through all of the endless beauty of the Seiser Alm from one lift to the next without ever unclipping their skis.

Last year the ski season in South Tyrol was cancelled due to the corona virus, but for winter 2021/2022, the snow cannons and slope vehicles are at the ready once again to ensure that the pistes are blanketed in perfectly groomed snow. Both ski schools – the Schlern 3000 and the Seiser Alm ski & snowboarding schools – also offer skiing lessons for children, and their instructors took advantage of their “unemployment” last year to attend advanced ski instruction courses, enabling them to provide chil-

dren with an even more professional introduction to the world of skiing without foregoing the fun of the snow.

Family-friendly ski resort Matthias Rabanser, President of Rabanser Seilbahnen cable-car company, does everything in his power to further the Seiser Alm’s ranking as one of the most family-friendly winter sports areas in the Alps. Alongside several other lift facilities, Rabanser’s cable car company also counts the Puflatsch cable car; based on a telemix concept combining both chairs and cabins in a single system, this cable car provides easy access for people in wheelchairs, hikers, children’s strollers and sledges. The Puflatsch has something to offer to all winter lovers: A spectacular view of the surrounding mountains, a restaurant with a sunny terrace, well-groomed winter hiking trails, a tow lift with a self-timer, a sledge run down to Compatsch and three more downhill slopes, the steep “Freccia,” the challenging “Race” and the long “Alpin,” all leading down to the Laurin slope.

The Laurin slope is extremely popular with snowboarders and freestylers: It is right next to the »

Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

Winter | ALPE 7

Enjoying the sun and the mountain views from the modern ski lifts (photo: Bamby Chairlift with the Langkofel and Plattkofel in the background)

Snowpark Seiser Alm, one of the Top 10 terrain parks in Europe and a guarantee of the perfect challenge to suit riders of all abilities. The upper end of the park features easy to moderate lines and a whole lot of action for boarders and freeskiers, the challenging obstacles of the pro-lines at the lower end attract the more advanced riders, and the large kicker is a promise of endless fun for experienced freeskiers and snowboarders. The multiple award-winning Snowpark Seiser Alm is well-known in the scene!

We move onwards in hushed contemplation along a ski trail leading to the low-lying valley station of the Spitzbühl chairlift. When you get to the top of the Spitzbühl, you will discover one of the most mesmerising viewpoints of the Seiser Alm, directly in front of the Schlern peaks of the Euringer and Santner towering up into the deep blue skies.

This is where the paragliders take flight and soar past the rocky mountains down into the valley in the warmth of the afternoon sun and where, from time to time, you can spot a pair of eagles who have

8 ALPE | Winter

made their eyrie in the face of the Schlern. Given its location at the outer reaches of the ski resort this magnificent downhill is less frequented than the other slopes, and is an absolute treat for carving lovers. In the coming winter season, the two-seater chairlift, getting on in years now, will very likely be replaced by a comfortable chairlift with heated seating and weather protection bubbles.

From the Spitzbühl, skiers can return along the Laurin slope to the bustling centre of Compatsch.

This is the hub of the Seiser Alm, accessible by the blue Seiser Alm cable car or by bus. It is the perfect set-off point to get to the numerous beautiful cross-country tracks which weave their way over this beautiful landscape, and to set off on a journey of discovery of the Seiser Alm without ever having to unclip your skis – except if you want to warm up in one of the huts or restaurants lining the slopes, of which there are over 40 on the Seiser Alm.

Fabulous cuisine, fabulous sport. The culinary offer on array is varied to say the least, and ran-

»

The Schlern, emblem of South Tyrol, borders the Seiser Alm to the south.

ges from vegetarian and vegan dishes through to Italian specialities and South Tyrolean delicacies.

A hearty speck platter or a cappuccino and cake are always a perfect complement to a day’s skiing!

Children’s menus are a standard, and adults can treat themselves to a mulled wine or their choice of wines and beers from the select drinks menus.

Another feature that makes skiing on the Seiser Alm such an out-and-out joy is the sun-kissed location of the mountain plateau. This is a place where winter sports fans and leisure-lovers can have the best of both worlds: The fun of outdoor activities, and the joy of a comfortable seat on one of the magnificent terraces under the warming rays of the sun.

The Bambi Lift. From the highest mountain station of the Seiser Alm, the oftentimes windy Goldknopf (2,220 m a.s.l.), intrepid skiers can launch into a high-speed timed descent before tackling the other slopes or heading back uphill to explore the north-east slopes of the mountain plateau.

After descending the Paradiso slope, the Bambi lift makes its appearance on the stage. “The best on the market,” says Matthias Rabanser, is what he’s installed here: A six-seater easy-access, childsafe chairlift with heated seating and weather protection bubbles. The Bambi is a top-class connecting lift. The slope is also equipped with a timer linked to the www.skiline.cc website, where skiers can check their times at any moment. A conveyor belt takes “speed skiers” back to the Paradiso lift. »

Winter | ALPE 9

At the Bambi mountain station, on the other hand, the choice is yours: Back to Compatsch, or over to the “Gardena” side, named for the cable car from Urtijëi/Ortisei in Gherdeina/Gardena to the Seiser Alm. The mountain station is located on Mont Sëuc.

All-round ease. Skiers and snowboarders can look forward to over 60 km of perfectly groomed slopes, the 1.5 km long Snowpark, and the kids’ fun parks of the two schools. Another attraction of the Seiser Alm is its 80 km long cross-country network, which begins at the Seiser Alm mountain station and leads to the Ritsch cross-country centre, where the trails go their separate ways. Although some prefer the moderately-difficult trails of the Hartl, Möser and Wolfsbühl with the magnificent countryside experience that they offer, first-class cross-country teams tend to opt for the challenging Joch trail.

For many years now, the Norwegian team has been making the most of the high-altitude conditions, as have world-class skiers from a number of national teams. Saltria also offers magnificent cross-country trails, accessible via one of the connecting slopes or by shuttle bus.

Ski and snowboard rental centres offer skiing and sports equipment hire for the entire duration of your stay. The mountain station of the Seiser Alm cable car in Compatsch is equipped with 2,500 lockers, so guests can drop off their equipment after a long day in the snow and make their way back to their accommodation unencumbered.

Families and skiing fans love the gentle, wide downhills of the Seiser Alm ski resort.

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The Seiser Alm is a quiet, peaceful place; if you’re looking for a holiday filled with fast-paced winter frenzy, it’s not the place for you. With its select array of events (see Winter Highlights 2021/22 on pages 46/47 and the booklet supplement), the area aims to attract visitors who are in search of boundless nature, healthy activity, relaxation and good food – you’ll find it all in abundance on the Seiser Alm! «

KOMMAGraphik | Foto: Helmuth Rier

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Senior - 45,00 Euro Carta numero: 2469 26.12.2021 - ore 9:24

AFFORDABLY AND CONVENIENTLY TO THE WINTER WONDERLAND SEISER ALM Benefit card for toboganists, hikers and snow shoe hikers, cross-country skiers.

Combi Card 3 in 7* ... 45,00 Euro

Nordic Pass 3 in 7* ... 56,00 Euro

In the course of 7 successive days (after first use)

In the course of 7 successive days (after first use)

> 3 times to the Seiser Alm and back, with the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway OR the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Routes 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15) around the Seiser Alm and the Almbus (Bus Routes 11)

> on 3 days unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway OR the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Route 10), on the same 3 days unrestricted use of using the CrossCountry Ski Courses Seiser Alm / Val Gardena and the Almbus (Bus Route 11) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15)

Combi Card 7* ... 58,00 Euro

Nordic Pass 7* ... 77,00 Euro

Valid for 7 successive days (after first use)

Valid for 7 successive days (after first use)

> unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway or the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15) around the Seiser Alm and the Almbus (Bus Routes 11)

> unrestricted use of the Cross-Country Ski Courses Seiser Alm / Val Gardena, of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway, the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Route 10) and the Almbus (Bus Route 11) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15)

Combi Card 14* ... 88,00 Euro

Nordic Pass 14* ... 120,00 Euro

Valid for 14 successive days (after first use)

Valid for 14 successive days (after first use)

> unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway or the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15) around the Seiser Alm and the Almbus (Bus Routes 11)

> unrestricted use of the Cross-Country Ski Courses Seiser Alm / Val Gardena, of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway, the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Route 10) and the Almbus (Bus Route 11) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15)

The Combi Card and the Nordic Pass are not transferable and are available at all cash desks of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway, at the tourist offices of Völs am Schlern and Seis am Schlern and at your accommodation.

Children (born after 27.11.2013) and persons on wheelchairs ride free of charge. Juniors (born after 27.11.2005) pay only half fare. *The Guest Card “Südtirol Alto Adige Guest Pass” which is not available for purchase and is issued free of charge to the guests by the accommodation, includes a price reduction for the Combi Card and the Nordic Pass.

Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway 39040 Seis am Schlern · Schlernstraße 39 Phone +39 0471 704 270 · Fax +39 0471 704 269 www.seiseralmbahn.it · info@seiseralmbahn.it

On smooth ice The Völser Weiher lake is the secret pride of every native to Völs.

A popular daytrip destination throughout the year, the little lake radiates a special tranquillity in the colder seasons.

»

12 ALPE | Winter

Winter | ALPE 13

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T The mountain lake at the foot of the Schlern is a magnet for locals and guests, and not only in the summer months when it’s the go-to destination for fun in the water, or on clear autumn days when the vibrant colours of the Schlern are mirrored in its water. In the winter months, the Völser Weiher lake provides the perfect blend of circumstances for the outdoor pursuits of ice skating, sledging and winter hiking – or even just gazing out in wonder at the countryside.

Winter in the Dolomites region Seiser Alm has much more to offer than “just” the ski slopes and cross-country trails on the Seiser Alm. When enough snow falls, the mid-mountain heights like those of the Völser Weiher are equally imbued with a magical winter atmosphere from December through to February. Often from one day to the next, the landscape transforms into an enchanting snow-blanketed fairy-tale forest, and an irresistible invitation to embrace the winter and tramp through the fresh snow in exploration of the area surrounding the villages.

Off-piste winter fun: Skaters of all ages enjoy playing ice hockey and ice stock on the Völser Weiher lake.

stantin, picturesque hiking trails weave through the wintery mountain woods. A leisurely walk over well-cleared trails from Seis am Schlern also takes you to the Völser Weiher: From the end of the village of Seis, head towards Völs along trail no. 11, past the idyllic St. Konstantin church and on to the St. Anton fork, and then take a gentle ascent up the road to the lake. In winter, visitors are strongly advised to follow the snow-cleared trails (see Tips and Advice: “Getting around safely in winter”).

A number of hiking trails lead to the Völser Weiher, which is also a popular destination in the winter months: If you set off from the bus stop in the village of Völs, you can walk there in about half an hour (just like in summer). As a rule, the trail is generally cleared of snow. From Ums and St. Kon-

When the snow is thick on the ground and the conditions are suitable, the forest trail to the Tuff Alm (or the Hofer Alpl) is groomed into a sledging trail by snowcat and tractor. Walkers young and old make their way up to the Tuff Alm mountain pa- »

Text: Sabine Funk Photo: Helmuth Rier

Winter | ALPE 15

In winter months, the snow-blanketed Schlern towers above the Völser Weiher lake and the small village of St. Konstantin.

sture and zip back downhill on sledges which they have either brought along themselves or rented up at the top. Up until the 1990s, a groomed natural luge track parallel to the Tuff Alm forest trail was the venue for a number of top-class luge events, from the Italian Championship in 1972 to the European championship in 1991. Local athletes always took podium places: Natural luge tracks look back on a long and glorious history in Völs am Schlern, the most recent chapter of which has been written by Patrick Pigneter, an immensely successful luger with nine World Championship titles and 104 World Cup victories under his belt.

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At the Völser Weiher itself, the middle of the lake is where it’s all happening. With its shallow waters, the Völser Weiher is thickly iced over for weeks at a time most winters. The strength and stability of the ice is impressively evident when a small tractor clears the snow from its surface and prepares it for events, creating mirror-smooth ice for ice skating, curling and ice hockey games. South Tyroleans love ice hockey; it has a long tradition here and is very nearly as popular as football. With the respectable success of the various professional teams from Bolzano, Ritten and the Puster Valley, every winter sees a new outbreak of hockey fever. »

Getting around safely in winter Tips and advice Although avalanches are perhaps the greatest danger on ski tours and snowshoe hikes in the high mountain areas, they are generally not a risk during winter hikes in the forests around the villages. Nevertheless, the weather and temperature conditions can create situations which must be well evaluated. This is because, trivial as it may sound, the greatest danger when hiking in winter is slipping. Black ice, packed snow and wet roots can cause hair-raising falls. Shady stretches of the trails in particular are prone to freezing over in winter or may turn to sheer ice after a post-thaw freeze, making them inaccessible to pedestrians wearing normal footwear.

Over the last few years, lightweight shoe chains which can be affixed to any kind of footwear have become widely available in shops. They are much easier to use than traditional crampons and allow wearers to walk safely on smooth terrain. This is most certainly a worthwhile purchase if you do a lot of winter hiking. Hiking poles can also be a useful piece of equipment.

What could be nicer than a walk through the fresh snow of a winter forest? Caution is also required here at times, however: Heavy snowfall heightens the risk of snow breakage, particu-

larly at lower altitudes where the ground is not frozen but merely soaked through and softened by rainfall – and if branches or entire trees break under the weight of the snow, it can be extremely dangerous and potentially lethal. Sleet can pose similar risks. Road closures and general warnings must be respected at all times.

Sledging is a guarantee of fun for the whole family, whether it’s around the Völser Weiher, on the sledge runs on the Seiser Alm or anywhere else in the Dolomites region Seiser Alm. However, we often forget that this is a high-speed sport. Great care must be taken to avoid collisions, especially on descents like the run from the Tuff Alm where walkers use the same route to get up the mountains.

Sturdy footwear and warm clothing are a must, and a helmet is every bit as important, if not more so, to minimise the risk of head injury if you crash or fly off the sledging run. Children’s ability to steer and brake sledges on their own should never be overestimated. Likewise, the risks of drinking alcohol before heading down a sledging run should not be underrated, as sledging – just like skiing – calls for concentration and fast reactions.

Always take care when you’re out in the snow.

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Until the mid-1990s, there used to be an ice hockey rink behind the Völser Weiher lake where an amateur team played. Enthusiasm for the game has endured over the years, as can be seen on sunny weekends when crowds of children and young people – directed and cheered on by exuberant fathers – give chase to the puck. The veterans glide across the ice in their hockey shoes with effortless assurance. But there’s more than enough room for everybody on the lake, including skaters of greater or lesser skills who just want to skate a couple of carefree laps, and for children who are taking their first wobbly steps on ice skates.

A few particularly flawless areas of the ice have been marked off and entry is forbidden, no matter how tempting the mirror-smooth, perfectly groomed ice may look. These areas are reserved for Ice Stock, a sport similar to curling which probably originated in Scandinavia and has a long tradition in the Alpine region. If booked in advance, it is possible to use these areas and rent all the necessary equipment for a novel evening of winter fun.

On a hike through the winter countryside, you can enjoy the beauty of nature in utter pace; here the Salegg ruins with a view of Seis am Schlern

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The picturesque landscape attracts not only locals and holidaymakers, but a good number of day-tourists from the Bolzano area. Dog owners in particular love to take their four-legged friends out into the countryside for some exercise. However, on some weekends and public holidays, the area is so busy that the question of respectful, environmentally conscious winter hiking must be addressed: These low forest areas provide sensitive winter habitats and retreats for wild animals. This is another reason for walkers to stay on signposted trails and keep dogs on a lead at all times; wild animals take flight from unexpected encounters with humans and dogs, and in doing so, use up more winter energy reserves than their bodies have stored. When dogs are roaming around off-lead the escape routes for these animals can be lengthened considerably, and this can be fatal for deer and chamois. Respect for nature and the environment and winter fun should not be mutually exclusive. «

Foto: IDM/Clemens Zahn

The fascinating mountain scenery of the Dolomites: the Rosengarten

The myth of the Dolomites In South Tyrolean extreme mountaineer Reinhold Messner’s words, they are “the most beautiful mountains in the world“. The incomparable beauty of the Dolomites is widely renowned and for many they are synonymous with excellence in winter holidays.

The mountains of the Dolomites can be thought of as a fossilised coral reef arching up into the sky in spectacular fashion. Thanks to their monumental beauty as well as their geological and geomorphologic significance, the so-called Pale Mountains were awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2009. Divided into nine areas and forming part of the Sciliar-Catinaccio Natural Park, the

Euringer peaks, stands out as one of the signature landmarks of South Tyrol. The Rosengarten massif, with its numerous peaks, is also known far beyond the country’s borders. The most striking part of the massif is the Kesselkogel peak, which stands at a height of 3,002 metres. The natural park also includes the mountain forests around Seis, Völs and Tiers, and the Tschamin Valley . «

Dolomites are considered one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in the world.

Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park: South Tyrol’s oldest natural reserve, a 7,291-hectare park, is situated in the western Dolomites and was founded in 1974. The Schlern is an impressive mountain range whose emblematic outline, that includes the Santner and

Bruneck Brunico

Südtirol Brixen Bressanone

Meran Merano

Lienz Toblach Dobbiaco

St. Vigil S. Vigilio

5 St. Ulrich

Kastelruth Ortisei Castelrotto Seis am Schlern Seiser Alm Siusi allo Sciliar Alpe di Siusi Völs am Schlern

Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage 1

Pelmo, Croda da Lago

2 Marmolada 3 Pale San Martino, San Lucano Dolomiti Bellunesi, Vette Feltrine 4 Friulian and d’Oltre Piave Dolomites

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Auronzo Corvara

Cortina d’Ampezzo

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5 Northern Dolomites 6 Puez-Odle 7 Schlern-Rosengarten, Latemar 8 Bletterbach 9 Brenta Dolomites

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Treading quietly through the snow When the Tschamin Valley is blanketed over in the winter, the snow acts as a muffler and all is hushed and still...

Snowshoeing is a wonderful way to experience the countryside.

S Snowshoeing is a safe sport, and one that is very much in vogue at the moment. Although the risk of injury is very low in comparison to other winter sports, snowshoers should always keep safety in mind, and carry avalanche safety gear on excursions in high mountain terrain. Other than snowshoes, you will need waterproof shoes, hiking poles and possibly gaiters or waterproof clothing.

Text: Katja Sanin Photo: Helmuth Rier

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This popular winter sport does not call for any particular special skills or athletic prowess. As the word implies, it entails hiking in the snow, with slightly longer steps than in a normal gait, using the poles to keep your balance. Although the ascent can be

fairly demanding, depending on the terrain and the snow, the descent is somewhat easier. With good long lunges and a decent sense of balance, gliding your way down to the valley can be incredibly easy on powdery snow. Unfortunately, conditions are not always optimal and fun descents of this nature are not the norm. Snowshoes, similar to touring skis, have a heel lift which is useful on steep uphill terrain and crampons on the underside, enabling snowshoers to set one foot in front of the other even on hard packed snow and ice.

The Tschamin Valley is an out and out paradise for snowshoe hikers. The area boasts loop routes »

Winter | ALPE 21

22 ALPE | Winter

The best pace is a slow one: Snowshoeing in the Tschamin Valley means enjoying nature.

of all lengths which are suitable for both beginners and advanced snowshoers, as well as Alpine terrain routes for experienced snowshoe hikers who know the local area well and have avalanche equipment.

Knowing the terrain or enlisting the services of a guide is particularly important in the cold season, as finding your bearings is a lot harder in winter than it is in summer.

It is, on the other hand, easier to spot animal trails in winter. In the Tschamin Valley, for example, you will see fox, hare, roedeer, red deer, chamois, crow and small bird tracks in the snow. The forest is their home, and winter sports fans should always be respectful of this fact when they are out in the countryside: In order to survive the winter, larger mammals switch to “energy saving mode” by eating less and moving around less. If thoughtless winter sports enthusiasts or roaming dogs startle them, they switch back to peak performance mode in or-

der to flee, which depletes their energy reserves considerably. As a general rule, animals make their winter homes in sunny locations with less snow and thus live a peaceful co-existence with winter sports fans, who should steer clear of these habitats at all times.

Although snowshoeing may appear boring to some, it offers an excellent alternative for all those who cannot or do not want to ski around the snow-blanketed mountains. This sport is also a wonderful way to slow down, enjoy the peace and quiet and let your mind roam free or enjoy a pleasant chat while snowshoeing in company. It is also a superb sport for children if you choose your route carefully: On flat trails with no elevation difference, snowshoeing with children is a perfect blend of exercise, fun and relaxation. «

Winter | ALPE 23

Young talent: Raphael Mahlknecht has chosen an unusual style of skiing.

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The Telemarker Raphael Mahlknecht currently occupies the 10th place in the Telemark World Cup rankings. The athlete from Völs skis for Italy, and his favourite place to train is the Seiser Alm.

T Telemark? Isn’t that the graceful downhill style favoured by the pioneers of skiing who weaved their way down the slopes many decades ago? Yes, it is indeed: The technique originated in Norway, homeland of skiing - the Telemark region to be more precise - where it was also practiced as a competitive sport for the first time. “Free-heel skiing” is back in vogue once more, and it looks like a whole lot of sporty fun. Telemark skiing is attracting an ever-growing number of enthusiastic young peo-

ple who are keen to try it out and hone their techniques.

Raphael Mahlknecht from Völs is one of them. He had been speeding down the slopes with self-assured ease for some time when he first tried telemarking at the age of ten, after having seen this unusual skiing style at a novel version of the legendary Blue Riband race on the Seiser Alm featuring a separate telemark category. Now twenty »

Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

Winter | ALPE 25

Challenging, fast-paced and athletic: The telemark technique calls for particular skill.

Magical moments on the slopes are the reward.

years old, Raphael is a member of the Italian Telemark team, a small team that competes in big international competitions.

The Telemark technique. How is telemark skiing different from other skiing styles? “You need the same equipment as a normal skier, it’s just the

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bindings and the boots that are different. And you use cross-country poles,” explains Raphael. If you want to take a crack at this novel sport of age-old roots, you would be well advised to engage the services of an instructor; as it is so different from any other technique, this beautifully elegant style is a tricky one to master. In telemark skiing the

heel of the boot is not attached to the bindings; this allows the knee to bend and the skier to take long, lunging steps and turn a nice arc.

ked turn wall to slow down), ends with a 150-metre-long cross-country section which must be skied in skating style.

In telemark races, a skilled, clean mastery of the style is every bit as important as speed. Multitasking is also a prerequisite: “Telemark competitions combine the three Nordic skiing disciplines of skiing, ski jumping and cross-country skiing,” says Raphael. Telemark skiing is an all-round multiski sport, it would seem. A classic telemark competition begins with a giant slalom, as in alpine skiing, leading into a jump of up to 20 metres into a steep curve and, after the “loom” (a 360° ban-

Fast and flowing. The races, organised by the International Ski Federation (FIS) in four disciplines (sprint, classic, parallel sprint and team parallel sprint) are a mesmerising sight for spectators, both for their variety and the speed and technical mastery they call for. “The race course is lined with judges who add penalty seconds for imperfect technique during passages, jumps that are too short, or imprecise telemark landings,” explains Raphael, “so it’s not just the race time »

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Young telemarker Raphael Mahlknecht is on his way up and is working towards the next World Championship.

that counts, but also the aesthetics.“ If they want to keep the pace, the group, which is limited in number to around 40 participants ranging in age from 20 to 30, have to train extensively in summer and winter alike. Given that not all national teams are equally equipped with their own trainer, the teams from France, Italy, Austria, Germany, Norway, England and Switzerland invite each other to train together. The Norwegians come to the Seiser Alm regularly, for example, and Raphael trains with them - primarily on the wonderful cross-country trails as, after all, a good skating style can make a decisive difference in every race. At other times, the athlete from Völs places his trust in ski trainers Evi and Christine Zemmer and his private trainer Denise Lanziner who keeps him at peak performance with mental exercises and a physiotherapy programme during breaks in the races.

In the Top 10. “Last winter I had more time to train because of the corona virus, which had an immediate impact on my World Cup rankings last ski season. I jumped up from the 25th place to the 10th,” says Raphael with evident joy. The young athlete is not reaching for the stars as of yet: “Staying in the Top 10 is my main goal, also in terms of looking towards the next World Cham-

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pionships in two years’ time,” he adds. As things stand at the moment, the outlook is promising for him: In the evenings, Raphael works as a waiter in the “Zur Quelle” restaurant at the “Camping Seiser Alm,” his parents’ campsite. This gives him the time he needs to train hard during the day on the Seiser Alm, which is practically on his doorstep, the ski jump in Monte Pana and the training hall of the nearby Gherdeina ski club. Raphael is also hopeful that telemarking will lose its exotic image and reach a wider public in Italy. “I’m happy that the new technical director of the Italian Ski Federation (FISI) Edoardo Alliod, former skier and hobby telemarker, now has this sport in his sights and gives his support to telemarkers,” says Raphael.

With the help of a few sponsors – amongst whom Raphael counts his parents and Seiser Alm Marketing, a lot of hard training and a little luck, his dream to win a telemark medal could well come true. And there’s one more thing that he wants: In the team parallel sprint, only four-person teams with at least one female member can take part.

And this is exactly what the Italian team is lacking.

No team, no medal, and one opportunity less for Raphael. So, Italian women, why not head to the Seiser Alm and give it a shot? «

Foto: IDM/Tina Sturzenegger

Winter-adventures off the slopes Discover the diversity of nature with all senses Romantic silence, white sugar-coated mountains and a fairytale atmosphere: That‘s winter in the Dolomites region Seiser Alm. The villages present themselves from their best sides and guarantee gourmet pleasure and authentic relaxation. Winter hiking, snowshoeing, culinary delights and evening events - in these guided adventures you will experience your winter vacation in the Dolomites with all your senses.

Tiers am Rosengarten Snowshoeing into the wilderness of the Ciamin Valley Tuesday, 11.01., 18.01., 25.01., 01.02., 08.02., 15.02., 22.02., 01.03., 08.03., 15.03.2022 Völs am Schlern Culinary torchlight hike to Peterbühel Wednesday, 08.12., 15.12., 22.12., 29.12.2021, 12.01. und 16.02.2022 Seis am Schlern Bread-making course Wednesday, 19.01., 26.01., 02.02., 09.02., 16.02., 23.02., 02.03., 09.03., 16.03., 23.03.2022 Seis am Schlern Powerfood - Spring herbs: taste the power of spring Mittwoch, 09.03., 23.03.2022 Völs am Schlern Guided tours at Prösels Castle dedicated to the taste, history and culture Thursday, 30.12.2021, Wednesday, 05.01.2022, Thursday, 03.03.2022 Kastelruth Mill-hike to Tisens Thursday, 13.01., 27.01., 10.02., 24.02., 10.03., 24.03.2022 Seis am Schlern Fire, flames, frying pans Thursday, 13.01., 20.01., 27.01., 03.02.2022 Seiser Alm Pure romance on Seiser Alm - Candle-Light-Dinner in a hut Thursday, 13.01., 20.01., 27.01., 03.02., 10.02., 17.02., 24.02., 03.03., 10.03., 17.03, 24.03., 30.03., 07.04.2022 Kastelruth The magic of the full moon Friday, 14.01., 18.02., 18.03.2022 REGISTRATION: at the information offices until the day before the event | www.seiseralm.it/winteradventure

Dolomites Region Seiser Alm Tel. +39 0471 709 600 www.seiseralm.it · info@seiseralm.it

A roaring Saxess!

Four sax playing women and one drummer, dispelling the prejudices that brass band music is staid or provincial: When Schlernsaxess play their own repertoire interwoven with leisurely choreographed performances, entertainment is assured.

T Text: Sabine Funk Photo: Helmuth Rier

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The four young saxophonists made their debut quartet appearance in 2015 at a somewhat sombre event, providing the musical accompaniment for a Mass. Katrin Gamper from Völs, Marion Goller and Franziska Rabensteiner from Kastelruth (the latter left the band in 2017, and Christine Pernter from Aldein has since taken her place) and Sabrina Vieider from Völser Aicha knew each other from the

“Jungschlern” youth orchestra, where young musicians from the bands in the Schlern area regularly meet up to rehearse for special projects and develop contemporary, sophisticated repertoires.

After the warm reception their first performance received, the members of the band had no doubt that they wanted to take the sax-quartet concept

Schlernsaxess: Four frontwomen on the saxophone and a man on the drums.

further. The key ingredients to their “saxess” were quickly discovered: Four young front women with a strong stage presence, the infectious groove of drummer Michael Prossliner from Kastelruth and a blend of modern pieces, most of which they arrange themselves. In addition to soul classics such as “Hit the Road, Jack” and “Mambo Number Five,” they also play eminently danceable chart hits, in-

cluding Ed Sheeran’s “Shape of you” and “I need your love” by Calvin Harris and Ellie Goulding.

Unlike a classic sax quartet, Schlernsaxess have foregone the soprano sax and their line-up features two altos, one tenor and one baritone sax, a format better suited both to the sound they want to achieve, and to their goal of performing as a small, »

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Enthusiastic, talented and creative: The young ensemble are an unconventional show band with a crowd-rousing groove.

unconventional show band at music and village festivals and various other events. And the unusual aspect? These women of the iconic golden instruments play a large part of their repertoire by heart, giving them space to perform humorous choreographies of their own creation in perfectly coordinated stage outfits, which they vary to suit the event. There are no limits to Schlernsaxess’s imagination, and they have even been known to pull juggling cloths from their saxes on occasion.

In their early days, the musicians’ local bands provided them with the majority of their opportunities to perform in public. They have come a long way since then and have brought their creative ingenuity to every corner of South Tyrol at parties, conferences, weddings and Christmas markets – cold hands included. The five musicians have also performed at the famed winter “Swing on Snow” event on the Seiser Alm. One of their highlight memories is of an evening when they performed a midnight interlude to a resounding reception at Santner’s (the après-ski bar at the valley station of the Seiser Alm cable car). A few years ago, the band also had a professional video shoot.

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Above and beyond the entertainment value and the sense of fun they all share, Schlernsaxess’s musical talents should not be underestimated; this is not only the result of the considerable support which the local brass bands offer young people and youthful talent. At the beginning of their “saxess story,” all the band members, now 23 to 25 years old, were still studying and training. Two of them have attended the music conservatory in Bolzano and have gone on to make music their careers. Christine Perathoner is still studying the piano there, while Marion Goller is now a saxophone teacher herself and also – in a very cool blend of professionalism and girl power – the bandmaster of the Barbian brass band.

The young musicians’ loyalty to the brass bands of their hometowns has never waned. In recent months, Schlernsaxess have had a quieter life due to the pandemic. Until 2019, they easily played 15 to 20 concerts a year. The five band members look to the future with unwavering optimism, and there’s no doubt that the Schlernsaxess story is far from over.

So, if you hear the groovy strains of a sax quartet (plus drums) at a Christmas market or a music festival, step a little closer and enjoy the sights and sounds. «

Schlernsaxess: (from left to right) Marion Goller, Sabrina Vieider, Michael Prossliner, Christine Pernter, Katrin Gamper

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In the Kastelruth hamlet of Tisens, home to just 160 people, peace and quiet reign supreme. It’s not only the crop farmers that Saint Nicholas protects.

Traveller’s Rest In the lands below Kastelruth lies the little hamlet of Tisens.

The church in the centre of the village is consecrated to St. Nicholas, one of the best-known saints in South Tyrol.

W Who is not familiar with the saint who brings children gifts on the night of December 5th and 6th.

This custom derives from the old legend of Bishop Nicholas of Myra, who is said to have given three young women a gold ball each to save them from hardship – and indeed, the saint is also usually depicted holding three gold balls.

Text: Barbara Pichler Photo: Helmuth Rier

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Tisens is one of the twelve villages and hamlets under the municipality of Kastelruth. It lies on one of the old trails leading from the Eisack valley towards Kastelruth, above the road which today leads from Waidbruck into the Schlern area. Travelers and pil-

grims heading east in the summer would have passed this little village en-route, as did the early-day mountaineers and guests of the 19th century who were making their way to the Dolomites, Seis am Schlern or Kastelruth.

This small hamlet never had a priest of its own; Kastelruth was close enough that people could go to church there, and the stately tower of the parish church in the village seems close enough that one could touch it. Be that as it may, the Tisens folk of the Middle Ages felt the need to build a church in the town, possibly as a landmark for passers-by, or »

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The beautifully renovated St. Nicolas Church, which dates back to the 14th century, is the heart of Tisens.

as an expression of gratitude and deep faith. The patron saint of the church, like his counterpart St. Christopher on the south-eastern outer wall, is the patron saint of travellers.

Tisens was formerly home to the majority of the grain fields in the municipality and, by virtue of the “miracle of the grain,” Saint Nicholas became venerated as the patron saint of grain farmers. This would explain the presence of two mills alongside the Festlbach River above the village: When walking along the old footpath (No. 1) from Kastelruth to Tisens you pass the former Eletermühle and Malfertheinermühle mills, the latter of which has been beautifully restored by its owners and can be visited on a guided tour.

Thanks for a good harvest. A wayside shrine along the road features images of popular patron saints, including Saint Notburga and Saint Anthony. “In summer the people of Tisens meet at

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the shrine and the cross along the road towards Tagusens to pray for good weather. In October we pray once a week to offer thanks for a good harvest, and in May to the Madonna,” says sacristan Maria Gasser who, together with her husband Luis, has been carrying out the duties of church sacristan for many years now. Up until seven years ago, the bells had to be rung by hand in the morning and at midday. Today, they ring out at noon when someone from Tisens has died, a final farewell from the village to the deceased, who will be buried on the same day in Kastelruth cemetery.

The first documented reference to the church appears in a letter of indulgence dating to the mid-14th century, around the time when the tower and the nave were built. In the 16th century the church was expanded and renovated in the style of the time, while in the 19th century, the late Gothic net vault was painted with a blue starry sky, a unique feature in this area.

In 2019 the parish council made the decision to restore the church as the roof was in need of repair.

During restoration works, old frescoes were discovered on the outside wall at the entrance depicting scenes of the crucifixion, together with a layer of frescoes within the church walls dating to the time of construction.

Now that the church has been fitted with a new

alarm system, all the sculptures have been reinstated in the late Gothic winged altar. St. Nicholas stands to the left of the Madonna with Child and St. Leonhard to her right, while the left wing holds St. Silvester with an ox and the right houses Saint Martin with a goose. Sacristan Maria tells us that the St. Nicholas Church is a popular venue for wedding ceremonies, particularly now that it has been restored to shining beauty. «

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Veronika Mahlknecht Stampfer sells her “Original Südtiroler Bauernspeck” and sausages at the farmers’ market in Kastelruth.

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Vroni, the speck maker At the Stampferhof in St. Kathrein, a dedicated farming lady rears pigs and processes their meat: Veronika Mahlknecht Stampfer is a woman who follows her own purposeful path.

L “Luckily I don’t need much sleep,” says Vroni, brushing a stray strand of blonde hair from her face.

“All the same, there are never enough hours in my day.” As Veronika Mahlknecht Stampfer, farming lady at the Stampferhof in St. Kathrein in Völser Aicha talks of her day, Charlie the Australian Shepherd seizes the opportunity to squeeze under the table for a pat - it’s not often that he sees his mistress sitting comfortably in the garden.

Vroni’s working day begins at five in the morning with a good hour of work in the barn followed by breakfast, after which she gets on with the housework. For the rest of the day, Vroni is in perpetual motion between the house, the garden, the smokehouse, the farm shop, the wine cellar, the farmers’ markets, the holiday apartments, the laundry and the kitchen. The farmer’s wife has her hands full to overflowing from the crack of dawn until late at night, and breaks are a rare event.

Unusual for South Tyrol, there is a pig farm at the Stampferhof. Every year around 100 pigs are fattened with grain, hay and straw here, together with a lot of freedom and loving care from farmer Vroni, until they reach the ideal “Original Südtiroler Bauernspeck”(Original South Tyrolean farmers‘ speck) weight. Most of the pork is transformed into speck, Kaminwurzen (smoked dried sausages), sausages and Bratwurst, and are sold in the farm’s own shop or at the farmers’ markets. Vroni and her husband Othmar spent a long time fine-tuning their speck recipe until they perfected it – and wow, does it taste good!

High award. It’s no surprise, then, that the editors of the renowned “Gault & Millau” heard talk of Vroni and named her “Culinary Artisan of the Year” in the new 2021 Gourmet Guide to South Tyrol. The award is an honour and an incentive to Veronika Stampfer, but publicity is no novelty for »

Text: Elisabeth Augustin Photo: Helmuth Rier

Winter | ALPE 39

“ The art lies in processing and selling the pig in its entirety.

We process every single part, including the head.”

her. When she was named “Farming Woman of the Year” by the South Tyrol Farming Women’s Institute in 2014, she considered it to be a great honour, and likewise, a great responsibility. For Vroni, a trained cook, farming is a vocation that fulfils her, body and soul. For decades now, she has spared no effort in her work as an ambassador for farming women in a wide variety of roles and committees. She believes it is important to inspire young women to embrace farming life, and a life lived in harmony with nature. She never tires of sharing her knowledge of farming. Vroni is a woman of striking competence, and a cheerful, friendly disposition.

Vroni has been giving people an insight into her lifestyle and work since 2016, when she first began to offer guided tours of the farm. “At first I was very nervous, and not in the least bit certain that I could do it,” she recalls, “but now, I thoroughly enjoy doing tours.” Vroni views these farm tours as a “cultural task,” and delights in showing visitors how traditional farming works, as opposed to factory farming. Happy pigs grunt in the barn and, in the beautifully furnished farm shop, a variety of wines from local producers sit alongside speck and sausages, awaiting the guests for the Stampferhof tasting session.

Deeply rooted. Vroni grew up on the Siebererhof farm in Ums and has always wanted to be a farmer.

She built the Stampferhof farm together with her husband Othmar Stampfer 30 years ago and recalls that the locals were enthusiastic when she first brought four or five pigs to the Stampferhof in 2006 and began producing speck. “By 2014 we al-

40 ALPE | Winter

ready had 20 pigs that we butchered ourselves, so we were able to increase our production steadily.”

In 2016, the barn and processing facilities were renovated, so works can be carried out with contemporary methods.

“The art lies in processing and selling the pig in its entirety,” explains the award-winning food artisan.

“While large companies only process the hams, or the leg cuts, we process every single part, including the head.” You can get a clearer picture of this in the curing room, where the rib rack and belly hang to cure for four or five months, and the shoulder and speck for seven to eight months. The rest is transformed into Kaminwurzen and salami. Only the hock and ribs are passed on to the catering trade.

Between 30 and 40 pigs, in their various parts, hang in the curing room, where the temperature and humidity are monitored constantly.

Tradition. Vroni gets her piglets from farms in South Tyrol when they are around 3 months old.

The “Original Südtiroler Bauernspeck” association, which counts seven pig growers and 16 piglet breeders amongst its members, processes roughly 1,200 pigs every year, around 100 of which are fattened at the Stampferhof. “We currently process around 70 of them ourselves, and 30 go to the small livestock association,” explains Vroni, who was recently elected to the Board of Pig Farmers and Piglet Breeders. Only a relatively small amount of the speck produced in South Tyrol can bear the “Bauernspeck” label. Bauernspeck is made from select pork, from small herds of pigs raised on South Tyrolean farms. It is limited in quantity, extremely popular due to its high fat content, and features a distinctively fine grain, crumbly consistency and a traditional taste.

The Stampferhof pigs are slaughtered at the age of around 9 months, when they have reached a weight of at least 140 kg. “A pig puts on the same weight as it eats,” explains Vroni. Up to ten pigs are slaughtered at one time, and their meat is processed immediately afterwards. Vroni’s son Patrick is of immense help here; a carpenter by trade, he also

Traditional agriculture rather than factory farming: Around 100 pigs are bred at the Stampferhof in St. Kathrein every year, and their meat is transformed into speck and sausages.

Winter | ALPE 41

Farming lady Vroni infuses her work as a culinary artisan with enthusiasm and skill.

les volume is an art all of its own. With small quantities such as these, the product is often out of stock, adds Othmar. Since 2014 Vroni’s husband, a qualified agricultural technician, has been focussing most of his energies on his role as Mayor of Völs and Vroni has been running the farm as manager of operations. “But Othmar, Patrick and I take all the big decisions together,” she emphasises, before getting back to her speck. “In addition to salt, we use our own blend of herbs and spices for the speck. We mix it by hand, and we want to give the meat the perfect taste by smoking it well and leaving it to cure for the ideal time.”

Marketing. Meticulous internal monitoring is car-

“ In addition to salt, we use our own blend of herbs and spices for the speck, which we always mix by hand.”

works on the farm with his mother. One of his jobs is to butcher the pig into all of its cuts (“ausleasn” in the local vernacular), after which his mother salts the speck and the other parts. “We are a well-practiced team now,” says Vroni, “and we have to plan everything a year in advance, as all the stages are spaced out. We don’t have the perfect rhythm yet, but we’re managing.”

All year round, once a week is “sausage day,” when Vroni makes fresh Bratwurst in summer and Hauswurst sausages in winter. A fresh batch of Kaminwurzen is made once every two weeks, and salami once a month. And then there’s all the speck, which calls for a constant, watchful eye; evaluating the degree of curing and timing production with sa-

42 ALPE | Winter

ried out through the entire meat production process. Office work is equally laborious, as every stage of the proceedings must be documented with absolute precision in order to guarantee traceability.

Fortunately, on top of her notable industriousness, the farming lady and mother of three adult children, is also blessed with outstanding organisational skills. In addition to the vast amount of farm labour, several times a week Vroni takes her wares to the farmers’ markets in Seis, Kastelruth, Klausen and Welschnofen, where she sells speck, sausage and, at times, her delicious fruit spreads. “I really enjoy it,” she says enthusiastically. The Stampferhof also supplies a number of shops in the local area.

With Vroni’s work schedule being as full as it is, her great love for cooking is one that she neglects a little. As authors of the book “Frisch gekocht in Südtirol” (Freshly cooked in South Tyrol), she and Maria Reichhalter Prader have brough popular farmers’ recipes to the wider public, and, at the same time, promoted the importance of simplicity and seasonal, regionally sourced products.

And does the 54-year-old Vroni ever get a break?

“The best way to relax is hiking,” she says. If the opportunity presents itself, she sets off to the nearby mountains with holidaymakers who are staying with her on the farm, or with her family. Otherwise, the farming lady enjoys her freedom at the remote Stampferhof farm in St. Kathrein. “My independence is important to me, as is my self-sufficiency and the opportunity to work in and with nature,” she says. Vroni is a truly contented woman. «

Vroni’s favourite places

The view of the Seiser Alm and the Eisack Valley from the Schlern, with the Euringer and Santner peaks in the background (left)

The Schlern

The Tschafon

Castle Prösels

The Seiser Alm

The never-ending expanse of the Schlern, at an altitude of over 2,500 m, mesmerises Vroni. As a young woman she worked on the Schlern for many summers.

The breathtakingly beautiful Prügelweg/Knüppelsteig trail leads over wooden bridges through a gully and up to the heights.

“Neighbour” of the Schlern, the Tschafon should not be underrated and, in Vroni’s opinion, is “much more than a hill.” She enjoys the magnificent views of the Rosengarten and down into the valley (her own farm included) from the Völsegg peak.

Built in 1200 by the Lords of Völs and extended to become a Renaissance castle and grounds in the early 16th century by then Governor of Tyrol, Leonhard von Völs, this cultural centre in the Dolomites region Seiser Alm attracts numerous visitors every year.

The trails on the largest mountain plateau in Europe are endless. All year round Vroni enjoys the many opportunities for leisurely to challenging hikes surrounded by this magnificent scenery.

Winter | ALPE 43

The South Tyrolean Marende

Text: Barbara Pichler Photo: Helmuth Rier

44 ALPE | Winter

The word “Marende” is peculiar to South Tyrol and, as its Latin roots suggest, this snack is something that has to be earned: In its origins, the Marende was the “merited” repast which farmers would sit down at the table to enjoy when their work in the fields was done for the day.

Today, this culinary heritage is an integral feature of South Tyrolean cuisine, appreciated by hikers in the mountain huts, together with friends in a traditional tavern or at home, and a welcome treat for guests in the wood-panelled Stube parlours of farm­ houses.

Speck, the undisputed star of the show, is served together with Kaminwurzen smoked dried sausage and cheese on a wooden chopping board, on which all the Marende ingredients are sliced at the table in company. Radishes, horseradish, kohlrabi, gherkins, tomatoes or chives, ideally from one’s own garden,

are welcome companions at the feast and add a lovely fresh complement to the smoked cold cuts. The Schüttelbrot rye flatbread is, of course, a mainstay of the meal. South Tyroleans have a glass of South Tyrolean red wine or juice with their Marende. And that’s how to round off a day in style.

Speck, Kaminwurzen smoked dried sausages, cheese, Schüttelbrot rye flatbread and a good glass of wine: the ingredients for a traditional South Tyrolean snack.

Winter | ALPE 45

Photo: SAM/Alex Moling

Photo: Schloss Prösels/Helmuth Rier

Photo: IDM/Alex Filz

Highlights Winter 2021/22

> December 2021

> Winter 2021/22

> December 2021 - March 2022

16 January 2022

CHRISTMAS MAGIC IN THE DOLOMITES REGION SEISER ALM

CASTLE PRÖSELS IN THE WINTER

WINTER-ADVENTURES OFF THE SLOPES

THE KASTELRUTH FARMER’S WEDDING

Prösels Castle is also open to visitors in winter. Winter castle tours are offering visitors a varietypacked alternative to skiing.

Every Thursday from 13 January 2022 to 31 March 2022, Prösels Castle will be awakening from its winter slumber and open its doors at 3 pm.

During a one-hour tour, visitors will learn a wealth of fascinating information about the castle and its former residents and, at the same time, can visit three art exhibitions and a vast weaponry collection.

On three days this winter (Thursday 30.12.2021, Wednesday 05.01.2022 and Thursday 03.03.2022) at 3 pm, the “Winter Cuisine & Culture” event will be held for the first time at Prösels Castle: After the castle tour, guests will have the opportunity to sample traditional local products free of charge in the castle grounds, where local producers will be hosting an array of stands. Prior booking is essential for winter guided tours, can be reserved at the Castle: info@schloss-proesels.it www.schloss-proesels.it

Discover the diversity of nature with all senses. As part of the Nature Experience programme, we will take a trip to a lovingly restored mill, or experiencing a full-moon hike In Kastelruth themed around the sagas and legends of the Schlern area, while in Seis am Schlern we will be discovering the magic of dusk and learn the age-old secrets of traditional recipes. We learn how to make traditional breads and discover the strength of spring herbs.

In Völs am Schlern, on the other hand, families can take part in an evening hike with torches and taste local products, while in Tiers, we will be exploring the rustic Tschamin valley on a snowshoe expedition through the untouched winter countryside.

Winter hiking, snowshoeing, culinary delights and evening events - in these guided adventures you will experience your winter vacation in the Dolomites with all your senses. www.seieralm.it/winteradventure

Over the years, it has grown to become an established tradition: The Kastelruth Farmer’s Wedding. It is an authentic reproduction of an old fashioned farmer’s wedding as celebrated since time immemorial here at the foot of the Seiser Alm. The high point of the event is the wedding parade from St. Valentin to Kastelruth. The wedding party, dressed in traditional attire, drive to the centre of Kastelruth in a magnificently decorated horse-drawn sleigh, bringing their guests along with them on a trip back in time to the 19th century.

When the air is thick with the scent of gingerbread, cinnamon and mulled wine, you know it’s advent time here at the foot of the Schlern. The run-up to Christmas is a meaningful time here in the Dolomites Region Seiser Alm; the Christmas markets in the villages of Kastelruth, Völs and Tiers are small but incredibly beautiful, and are guaranteed to get guests and locals alike into the Christmas spirit, far from the hustle and bustle of the city. With their traditional handcrafts, specialities of South Tyrolean cuisine and Christmassy melodies, they warmly invite you to join them for a sociable Advent of companionship.

15th Kastelruth Mountain Christmas > 4-5 December 2021 > 8 December 2021 > 10-12 December 2021 Christmas concert of the Kastelruther Spatzen (10/11 December) > 17-19 December 2021 > 24 December 2021 > 26 December 2021 Waiting for Baby Jesus in Völs > 4-5 December 2021 > 8 December 2021 > 11-12 December 2021 > 18-19 December 2021 Mountaineer’s Advent in Tiers > 4 December 2021 > 18 December 2021

This issue of ALPE was printed in December 2021. Due to the many uncertainties connected with the spread of the Covid-19 pandemic, the editors cannot guarantee that the events which have been planned (and are listed in this issue) will take place.

We all hope to overcome this crisis as soon as possible, so that we can meet once again and take joy together in the many large and small pleasures of life. The ALPE Editorial Team

46 ALPE | Winter

Photo: SAM/Helmuth Rier

Photo: SAM/Helmuth Rier

Photo: Helmuth Rier

20 January 2022

> March 2022

> 6 March 2022

> 16 – 20 March 2022

SOUTH TYROL MOONLIGHT CLASSIC SEISER ALM

NOSTALGIA FUN RACE

GOURMET MOUNTAINEERING CUISINE IN WINTER

15TH SWING ON SNOW WINTER MUSIC FESTIVAL

A sporting event illuminated by the glow of flickering torchlight, the chance to put your skills to the test at international level, and the magical winter backdrop of Europe’s largest mountain plateau: In 2022, the Moonlight Classic will once again be offering numerous athletes and cross-country fans the chance to spend a sensational evening on the Seiser Alm by night. Participants can opt to take part in either the 30 km or the 15 km variant of the loop route. Both variants begin and end in Compatsch and are raced exclusively in classic diagonal style. The starting pistol for this cross-country spectacle will be fired at 8pm. Participation is only possible with the Green Pass.

Registration required: www.moonlightclassic.info

Travel back to bygone days at the Nostalgic Jamboree Race - numerous nostalgia groups from South Tyrol, Trentino, Livigno and Slovenia have been invited to the Seiser Alm to do just that! Spectators can admire the period clothing from a variety of eras on the Panorama slope and meet the nostalgia skiers during the lunch break in the surrounding huts. A prize-giving ceremony rounds off the event, organised in collaboration with Kastelruth nostalgic pro, Otto Mauroner. > 2, 9 and 16 March 2022

EARLY BIRD SKIING WITH ALPINE BREAKFAST Exclusive skiing experience for early risers followed by breakfast on the Seiser Alm. On three days in March, three ski lifts will take turns to start running at 7 am.

Early risers will have the unique opportunity to cross the freshly groomed and deserted slopes and enjoy the special morning atmosphere on Europe’s largest mountain plateau, accompanied by a ski instructor who will provide a wealth of handy tips.

At 9 am, we’ll be heading to a mountain hut to enjoy a sociable Alpine breakfast. www.seiseralm.it/earlybirdskiing

This culinary gourmet hike leads from Tiers to the Wuhnleger lake via the St. Sebastian chapel. Participants can make their way there individually, departing from Tiers am Rosengarten no later than 10 am. Along the route, 4 catering stands will be serving aperitifs, warming soups and many more mouthwatering delicacies. At the final station on the Proa (Alpine meadow above St. Zyprian), hay bales and tree trunks provide the seating facilities around the fire.

Good wine and live music will ring out the day in good cheer.

Limited number of participants.

Booking and info at the Tiers am Rosengarten Information Office. > 8 March 2022

DOLOMITES DIRNDL SKI DAY A fun new event for women will premiere this year on March 8, 2022, on the occasion of International Women’s Day. A parallel slalom with dice game is planned in the finish area on the Sanon slope, only women in teams of two (girlfriends, sisters, mothers/daughters) aged between 18 and 99 can register. Participants compete wearing a „Dirndl”, the race begins at 9:30 am. A Dirndl fashion show is planned for the early afternoon, and musical entertainment will also be provided.

Jazz in the mountain huts, soul on the slopes and traditional tunes in the restaurants in the evenings: From 16 to 20 March 2022, musicians from all over the Alpine region will be bringing musical cheer to the Dolomites Region Seiser Alm at the Swing on Snow festival from morning to night. Bands and singers will be getting old and young, winter sports visitors and music lovers alike, into the party mood.

The modern interpretation of traditional folk music with jazz, soul and pop reflect the musical culture of the Alps; listeners can swerve in time to the beats and rhythms, and weave their way downhill to the sounds of the tuba, bass, dulcimer and accordion. Concerts will be played on the slopes of the Seiser Alm in the mornings and afternoons in the huts and evenings in the villages of Kastelruth, Seis am Schlern, Völs am Schlern and Tiers am Rosengarten. www.swingonsnow.com

Winter | ALPE 47

Photo: SAM/Helmuth Rier

Photo: O.v.W.-Ritt/Helmuth Rier

Photo: Castle Prösels/Helmuth Rier

Preview Summer 2022

> 9 May – 2 July 2022

> June 2022

> May – October 2022

> 11 and 12 June 2022

SEISER ALM BALANCE

GOURMET WEEKS

PRÖSELS CASTLE IN SUMMER

BIG OPEN-AIR OF THE KASTELRUTHER SPATZEN

From 1 May to 31 October, Prösels Castle, dating back to the days of Maximilian and arguably Tyrol’s most emblematic castle, is open to the public. Guided tours will offer visitors a fascinating insight into the history of the castle and the infamous Lords of Völs, so closely interwoven in the threads of time. “Martha the Witch” will also be guiding special family tours where children can delve into a realm of fable and fairytales and discover the secrets of the healing arts in days gone by, while children and families embarking on family tours led by Knight Friedrich von Hauenstein will step into a bygone world of knights, knaves and damsels. A series of concerts, readings and seminars round off this castle’s cultural events programme.

Prösels Castle has South Tyrol’s first ever escape room in a castle. During the “Hunt for the Dragon Ruby,” children (9 years old and upwards) accompanied by their parents, young people and adults in groups of up to 5 people can put their skills to the test in intuition, creativity, team spirit, logic, maths and, above all, their ability to learn and have fun.

And while the kids are having fun in the all-new play park, their parents can savour the delights of local cuisine in the castle gardens. www.schloss-proesels.it

In 2022 the famous folk music group from Kastelruth, the “Kastelruther Spatzen”, invites to the Open Air on home soil. But even after all these years, the fascination of the concert is unbroken: many thousands of fans will arrive in Seis am Schlern this weekend in June to enjoy the breath­ taking landscape and to experience the „Spatzen“ live. A special experience for all big fans …

Fancy a break? When the countryside awakens in spring, the urge to get outside into the open air gets ever stronger and draws us out into the great outdoors and the spring air. A variety of events and workshops themed around healthy exercise, balance, Culinary pleasures and relaxation tick every possible box for the start of the warm season. Recharge your batteries in the countryside and explore the unique spots and highlight activities together with our experts: Plenty good reasons to escape from everyday life for a brief moment. www.seiseralm.it/balance > 19 – 22 May 2022

SCHLERN MUSIC 2022 With the chamber music festival Schlern Music, Völs am Schlern is setting a distinctive, new cultural accent that draws on a fresh artistic concept, young performers and unusual small concert stages. With Simply Quartet, Samuele Telari, Pablo Barragán and others. www.schlernmusic.it

48 ALPE | Winter

Under the theme of “100% Dolomites Region Seiser Alm,” lovers of regional cuisine can look forward to a season-opening gourmet experience of a very special kind; over these two weeks, the star of the show is cuisine that is yearround available, healthy and 100% locally sourced. The event showcases all that is 100% local, and forges the bond between farmers, direct marketers and the local network. An inauguration event at the beginning of the Gourmet Weeks will set the scene. www.seiseralm.it/culinaryweeks > 11 and 12 June 2022

39TH OSWALD VON WOLKENSTEIN RIDING TOURNAMENT 3 days, 4 locations and 36 teams: In tribute to knight and minstrel Oswald von Wolkenstein, the three villages of Kastelruth, Seis am Schlern and Völs am Schlern organise a historical riding tournament at its very finest. From 11 to 12 June 2022, visitors to the Oswald von Wolkenstein Riding Tournament can leap back in time to the 14th century and experience life in the Middle Ages, admire the masterly horsemanship and feel the hospitality in South Tyrol. No other riding tournament has the good fortune to be able to offer this kind of culture, tradition, history, sport and folklore all rolled into one single event.

This year, the opening ceremony and festive parade take place in the village Völs am Schlern. www.ovwritt.com

> 27 June – 12 September 2022

SUMMER CLASSICS IN SEIS AM SCHLERN Seis organise an extraordinary series of concerts for lovers of classical music. The artists, mainly from Italy and with a wealth of international experience behind them, will be performing the works of great composers. The concerts will be held on Mondays at 9 pm.

Dates > 27 June 2022 > 4, 11 and 18 July 2022 > 22 and 29 August 2022 > 5 and 12 September 2022

Photo: Völser Kuchlkastl/Anneliese Kompatscher

Photo: IDM/Marion Lafogler Photo: Helmuth Rier

Photo: SAM/Armin Indio Mayr

> 3 July 2022

> 19 July 2022

> Summer 2022

> 1 – 31 October 2022

9 SEISER ALM HALF MARATHON

5 ROSENGARTEN SCHLERN SKY MARATHON

OPEN-AIR GOURMET EXPERIENCES

45TH VÖLSER KUCHLKASTL KITCHEN PANTRY

21 kilometres, 601 metres of elevation difference and 700 participants: These are the key statistics of the Seiser Alm Half Marathon on 3 July 2022, which will start and finish in Compatsch. Surrounded by the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage, the Seiser Alm Half Marathon is a unique experience and sporting challenge for both professional and amateur athletes. The route leads past the majestic Schlern and Plattkofel, as it weaves up to its highest point at 2,050 metres under the Goldknopf and, from here, back to Compatsch. running.seiseralm.it

Right in the very heart of the unique Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage, a 45-kilometre Alpine Mountain Marathon with around 3,000 m of elevation difference will be setting off from Tiers am Rosengarten. The Rosengarten Schlern Sky Marathon. The challenging mountain race will begin in Tiers, lead round the Rosengarten Massif, over the Schlern, past the Tschafon Hut and back to Tiers. The highest point of the Sky Marathon is the Grasleiten Pass at 2,630 m. www.skymarathontiers.it

Two very unusual open-air gourmet events make for an incredible culinary experience in the Seiser Alm summer: The debut event is the Berglertafel in Tiers am Rosengarten on 15 July; in addition to culinary finesse, it is also famed for its breathtaking views of the legendary Rosengarten.

On 27 July 2022, Kastelruth wel­ comes guests to a culinary event steeped in history on a Calvary hill; the stage setting for the Krausen­ tafel banquet is the Kofel in Kastelruth.

The Völser “Kuchlkastl” Kitchen pantry event has been a culinary high point of autumn in the Dolomites Region Seiser Alm for 45 years and counting. Foodies and lovers of down-home cuisine can feast to their hearts’ content from 1 to 31 October, when the restaurateurs of Völs warmly welcome guests to enjoy a “Gastronomical October.”

The chefs of Völs will be cooking up traditional recipes with a sophisticated twist: Time honoured recipes reinterpreted, and served with love. www.voelserkuchlkastl.com

> 12 July – 9 August 2022

> 7 – 9 Oktober 2022

> September – October 2022

SILENZI D’ALPE

KASTELRUTHER SPATZEN MUSIC FESTIVAL

SEISER ALM MOUNTAIN AUTUMN

Three days of celebrating, spen­ ding pleasant evenings together, experiencing the “Kastelruther Spatzen” live: the Spatzen-Festival in Kastelruth is a must for every fan. Surrounded by the unique scenery of the Dolomites the seven “Spatzen” enchant all the friends of traditional music.

The mountain autumn brings together outdoor experiences with a magnificent landscape and an outstanding cuisine. Guided sunrise hikes with breakfast in a mountain refuge, culinary hikes with tasting sessions, and “Törggelen” hikes are just a few of them. www.seiseralm.it/mountainautumn

TH

TH

The cultural event of Silenzi d’Alpe - The Silence of the Alps - will take place in magical landscapes and breathtaking locations. Participants will have the opportunity to listen together to the sound of silence and follow the trails, traditions and tales of nature, which weave their spell around the Seiser Alm. Alongside hiking events, the Silenzi d’Alpe programme also features a number of concerts and talks. www.silenzidalpe.it

Winter | ALPE 49

Photo: Konsortium Skiarea Carezza

Around & about

Tiers open-top cable car. From 15 January 2022, a new cable car will run between the Tiers Valley and the Rosengarten.

Traversing an altitude difference of 644 metres, the 3.8 km-long, 60-seater cable car will transport passengers from St. Zyprian to the Frommer Alm in just 7 minutes. From the Frommer Alm, the new König Laurin cable car leads to the underground mountain station at the Kölner Hütte mountain hut, in the realm of King Laurin.

Award-winning Seiser Alm In autumn 2021, 17-year-old Luca Putzer won the audience award at the 4th Peugeot Drone Film Festival. After the jury shortlisted his spectacular FPV drone footage of the snow blanketed Seiser Alm among the Top 10 drone videos, Luca was invited to the award ceremony in Frankfurt together with over 90 other guests from all over the world. The content creator, filmmaker and photographer could scarcely believe his luck when he was declared winner of the FOCUS online audience choice award. The Seiser Alm marketing team congratulate Luca on his tremendous success. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wule2lZ-sw

Thank you, Edi! Eduard Tröbinger Scherlin, former Vice President of the Schlern Tourist Association (Kastelruth, Seis, Seiser Alm) and Founding President of the Seiser Alm Tourist Association in 1999, has retired from the Managing Board of Seiser Alm Marketing. As president of the intermunicipal tourism association Eduard Tröbinger Scherlin has been at the helm of the Board of Directors since 2010 and, with his immense commitment, competence and skilled diplomacy, has played a key role in shaping tourism development. Seiser Alm Marketing unites the tourist associations of Kastelruth, Seis am Schlern, Völs am Schlern, Seiser Alm and Tiers am Rosengarten and promotes the Dolomites region Seiser Alm, one of the most popular tourist destinations of the Alpine region. We would like to extend our gratitude and appreciation to the outgoing President for his dedication!

IMPRINT. ALPE: Reg. Court Bolzano / Bolzano, n. 9/2002 R.St. Published by: Seiser Alm Marketing, 39050 Völs am Schlern, Dorfstraße 15, Tel. +39 0471 709 600, Fax +39 0471 704 199, info@alpedisiusi.info, www.seiseralm.it. Legally responsible for the editorial content: Elisabeth Augustin Editorial Team: Elisabeth Augustin, Rosa Maria Erlacher, Sabine Funk, Annemarie Obexer, Barbara Pichler Rier, Helmuth Rier, Katja Sanin; Translations: Studio Bonetti & Peroni. Advertising: Sabine Demetz, Christoph Trocker. Graphic: Komma Graphik. Printing: Litopat, Verona.

50 ALPE | Winter

Fresh products from our local farmers

NEW BUTCHER GRUBER

• • • • • • •

Food Butcher Bakery Confectionery Hardware Gardening Agriculture articles

The „Konsum Markt“ is a „colorful“ department store in the heart of Kastelruth / Castelrotto. It‘s the wide range of products that makes it so extraordinary: You‘ll find not only an extensive assortment of foods as well as gourmet specialties from local farmers and organic produce but also agricultural equipment and hardware / appliances. In selecting the merchandise to be offered in our supermarket, such aspects as

„local production,“ „short shipping distances,“ and „stimulating the local economy“ were major considerations. The wide variety of South Tyrolean specialties available here includes traditional „schuettelbrot“ („shake bread“) made by the Burgauner Bakery and Pastry Shop – a delicacy usually served together with „Kastelruth bacon“ from the butchery Gruber.

We are looking forward to your visit!

Famiglia Cooperativa di Castelrotto Via Panider 24, Tel. 0471 706 330, Fax: 0471 710 501 info@konsummarkt.com, www.konsummarkt.com

OPEN

ALL YEAR From Monday to Saturday 07:30 - 12:30 a.m.

15:00 - 19:00 p.m.

LOCAL! UNIQUE! AUTHENTIC!

Werbemitteilung / Messaggio pubblicitario

Viel mehr als eine Bank, Molto più di una banca, … weil meine Raiffeisenkasse eine Genossenschaft ist. Und bleibt.

Als Genossenschaftsbanken sind wir seit jeher mit den Bürgern und Betrieben aus unseren Gemeinden eng verbunden. Wir wissen, wem wir täglich verpflichtet sind, unser Bestes zu geben. Als finanzieller Weggefährte – ein Leben lang.

… perché la mia Cassa Raiffeisen è una società cooperativa, oggi come in futuro.

In quanto banca cooperativa, da sempre vantiamo uno stretto legame con i cittadini e le aziende del territorio, ai quali ci impegniamo quotidianamente a dare il meglio.

E, in veste di esperti finanziari, vogliamo essere al loro fianco per tutta la vita.