Virgin Islands Property & Yacht | December/January 2020 | BVI's Quart-A-Nancy Point, True bliss

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VIRGIN ISLANDS

PROPERTY&YACHT D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 9 /J A N U A R Y 2 0 2 0

T H E L I F E S T Y L E G U I D E TO PA R A D I S E

r e p Coo d n a l Is ss i l b

Outer island living at its finest

THE BAHAMAS

YACHTING

ARCHITECTURE

OPEN FOR BUSINESS

TIPS FOR CHARTERING

WELLNESS IN DESIGN


Trust is not simply given. It grows. With investment services – as with so much in life – the more two people know each other, the better they work together. Which is why, in our personal financial advisory service, we believe time and attention are just as important as expertise and competence. Enabling us to be your trustworthy companion over the years, providing dependability and success.

VP Bank (BVI) Ltd · VP Bank House · 156 Main Street · PO Box 2341 Road Town · Tortola VG1110 · British Virgin Islands T +1 284 494 11 00 · F +1 284 494 11 44 · info.bvi@vpbank.com VP Bank Group is based in Liechtenstein and has offices in Vaduz, Zurich, Luxembourg, Tortola/BVI, Singapore, Hong Kong and Moscow.


JASMINE VILLA Long Bay US$2,500,000

PONDA VISTA Belmont US$1,895,000

BELOVED VILLA Virgin Gorda US$2,250,000

FAR PAVILION Long Bay US$975,000

The Art of Living Living in the British Virgin Islands means having an intimate relationship with the ocean and our tropical climate; they permeate our daily activities. Beach day or forest hike? North shore surfing or South shore marina? Tortola or Virgin Gorda? The choices are many and varied. Choosing to eat out could take you to one of numerous restaurants on several different islands with countless beaches and hidden coves, all an easy boat ride away ‐ power boat or sailing yacht ‐ you choose!

INTERNATIONAL CONNECTIONS, LOCAL INSIGHTS BVISIR.COM

Each office is independently owned and operated

TORTOLA OFFICE +1 284 340 5555 (Maritha Keil)
 PO Box 188, Road Town
 +1 284 494 5700

maritha@bvisir.com


EDITOR’S NOTE

“Adopt the pace of nature. Her secret is patience.” - Ralph Waldo Emerson Sign up to our monthly e-newsletter at bvipropertyyacht.com Like us on Facebook Facebook.com/ virginislandspropertyyacht Follow us on Twitter Twitter.com/vipropertyyacht Read our publications on issuu issuu.com/alookingglass/docs

CON TACT US Advertising Enquiries sandro@alookingglass.com General Enquiries vipy@alookingglass.com Editorial Submissions erin@alookingglass.com

on the cover

WHEN PEOPLE THINK of “island living”, they most certainly conjure images of gently lapping waves and slow, sultry sunsets. When we slow down the pace of our lives, the more we can hear, feel and experience, from nature and from each other. This is especially true during the busy holiday season. Cooper Island is a little slice of nature-filled heaven, where time nearly stands still. We’re deeming our exclusive cover feature as “outer island living at its best”, and the beautiful property at Quart-A-Nancy Point, presented by BVI Sotheby’s International Realty, really has it all. Private seclusion where one can witness the gentle migratory patterns of the Caribbean’s sea life and ocean birds is nestled just a stone’s throw away from the popular Cooper Island Beach Club eco-resort. This is a must-see, once in a lifetime opportunity for outer island BVI living! Slowing down in your own home can be difficult, and our Villas & Views piece has great tips on creating a calm and serene bedroom, perfect for sleeping or enjoying time away from life’s distractions. And if designing a residence with a better quality of life already built in is the goal, the architects at OBM International have lots of ideas of how to incorporate wellness into the very bones of a home. While we’re talking construction, the team at Rufred Forbes and Associates highlights a project in Virgin Gorda that is helping the pace of life return to normal for students and teachers at the Bregado Flax Educational Centre. Tourist season is in full swing, and there’s no better way to see the beautiful BVI than by boat. Chartering a boat has never been easier with a piece full of tips, tricks and a general “how-to” on yachts and charters in the region. We’re also very thankful that another hurricane season has come to an end relatively peacefully. Parts of the Bahamas were devastated by Hurricane Dorian this year, but we’re highlighting some of the Bahamian islands that are very much open for business and could greatly benefit from your visit. Thank you for taking a few moments to slow down with our magazine. We hope you have a wonderful holiday season and a very happy new year. Enjoy the issue,

BVI Sotheby’s International Realty presents a quiet and serene Cooper Island home.

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Sara

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OUR TEAM

contributors Conor King Devitt

Conor King Devitt is a freelance journalist currently based in Seattle, WA. From 2016-2018, he worked as a reporter and assistant editor for the BVI Beacon newspaper, covering politics, financial services, and the territory’s hurricane recovery efforts.

Marvin E. Flax

Marvin is the Managing Director of OBM International, leading the global master planning, architecture, and design firm in its Tortola office. Creative by nature, Marvin uses the beauty of the BVI for inspiration.

aLookingGlass Team

Morgana Tilling

Morgana is a key member of Smiths Gore’s team, running a portfolio of exclusive villa rental properties. With years of experience in luxury hospitality, she works to ensure clients experience the very best of the BVI.

Amanda Ulrich

Amanda is a news and features reporter based on Tortola. Since Hurricane Irma in 2017, many of her articles have focused on the territory’s recovery process.

PUBLISHER Erin Paviour-Smith EDITOR Sara Sherman

sara.m.sherman@gmail.com

Erin Paviour-Smith Chief Executive Officer

Erin was Sales Director at aLookingGlass for the last 5-years. She liked the job so much that she purchased the Company in mid-2019. She has real passion for VIPY and helping clients achieve their marketing goals. Originally from New Zealand, Erin has made the BVI her permanent home and recently became mum to twin boys Indo and Finn.

Sandro Dos Santos Sales Manager

Sandro has over 16 years’ business development and customer service experience in Portugal and New Zealand. He is fluent in Portuguese and English with conversational Spanish. Sandro also loves to surf in his spare time.

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DESIGNER Sally Fullam

sallyfullam@gmail.com

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES Sandro Dos Santos sandro@alookingglass.com

OFFICE MANAGER & DISTRIBUTION Francoise Frank francoise@alookingglass.com

FOUNDING PUBLISHER Colin Rathbun VIRGIN ISLANDS PROPERTY & YACHT is published eleven times per year (February, March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October, November and December/January). © 2019 alookingGlass Limited. All pieces reproduced in this issue are under prior copyright by the creators or by the contractual arrangements with their clients. Nothing shown may be reproduced in any form without obtaining the permission of the creators and any other person or company who may have copyright ownership. The publisher of VI Property & Yacht, assumes no responsibility for the accuracy of the content placed in its publications. For the avoidance of doubt, aLookingGlass gives no warranty or guarantee in regards to any information placed in its publications. PLEASE DIRECT ALL ENQUIRIES TO: EMAIL: info@alookingglass.com PHONE: 284 344 2172

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BRING GREAT DESIGN HOME

To discuss your Project, contact Roy Keegan: Office: 284 494 5240 Cell: 284 541 7483 roy@arawakvi.com Arawak Interiors, Road Reef Plaza #9, Road Town

Arawak Interiors offers home interior design advice, custom designs and sourcing from Asia, Mexico and USA. We also offer an extensive range of furniture, fixtures and fittings to choose from at our interior store and warehouse located in Road Town. Arawak Interiors manages all the shipping and logistics to deliver to your door anywhere in the BVI. Overseeing projects for Private villas, Private Islands, Resorts & Restaurants.


contents DECEMBER 2019 / JANUARY 2020

12 20

38 12

26

34

BVI Sotheby’s International Realty offers a rare and truly unique Cooper Island property

OBMI shows how good design can improve wellness and longevity

Learn the ins and outs of how to charter a boat in the Virgin Islands

EXCLUSIVE COVER FEATURE

20

VILLAS & VIEWS How to create a calming bedroom oasis

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WAKE UP TO WELLNESS

SEA: CHARTERING 101

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The Bregado Flax Educational Centre in Virgin Gorda is open

The Bahamas are open for business and more beautiful than ever

RUFRED FORBES

TRAVEL

bvipropertyyacht.com


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E XC L U S I V E C OV E R F E AT U R E

A PIECE OF PARADISE An incredible location with a private dock and an unobstructed view of the Virgin Islands make the villa at Quart-A-Nancy Point one in a million for outer island living. BY SARA SHERMAN P H OTO G R A P H Y CO U R T E SY O F BV I S OT H E BY ’ S I N T E R N AT I O N A L R E A LT Y

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Only accessible via boat and private dock, the villa at Quart-A-Nancy point provides an idyllic, natural retreat.

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E XC L U S I V E C OV E R F E AT U R E

IN A HYPER- CONNECTED world, an oasis of calm and quiet is waiting on a small island in the Caribbean. In this paradise, turtles swim freely in one of the British Virgin Island’s best diving sites, and the migratory patterns of birds and sea life is right out the front door. Every sunset is spectacular in a home that feels like it’s the only place on Earth. A private island paradise is a dream in the BVI, and outer island homes are rare, let alone available with any regularity. With only a handful of private homes and a cosy eco-resort with many amenities, Cooper Island offers a stunning location with unparalleled ocean views. The opportunity to own property in this special place doesn’t come around often, and the private, exclusive properties that BVI Sotheby’s International Realty is

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famous for is showcased in the house at Quart-A-Nancy Point. This piece of paradise can now be yours, fulfilling the island dream. Only accessible by boat via a private dock, Quart-A-Nancy provides ultimate privacy for a homeowner wanting to get away from it all. Manchioneel Bay is a popular mooring destination, and yachts from all over the world enjoy Cooper Island’s calm waters and pristine snorkelling opportunities. Because of its truly special location in the middle of the BVI archipelago, the calm waters provide amazing diving experiences not found anywhere else in the Caribbean. The marine life migrates through this area and beautiful coral reefs, dolphins, whales, starfish and many other rare species can be seen at different times of the year, making one feel even closer to nature.

With a low carbon imprint, the home has been completely renovated and is fully self-sustainable, making living in harmony with the natural environment totally seamless. All power is produced on-site with modern photovoltaic solar power systems, with excess power stored in deep cycle marine batteries. The home is completely wired for 110V, and energy production and use can be easily monitored remotely online. Modular convective solar hot water panels produce heated water and it is stored in an insulated tank with a solar electric heater backup. The only fossil fuels used on the property are

ABOVE The open verandah provides the perfect setting for sunset views. RIGHT Nestled above Manchioneel Bay, Cooper Island Beach Club is just a quick dinghy ride away.

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small amounts of propane for cooking and gasoline needed to run the rarelyused backup generator. Dreamed up and built by American artist Bill Hook and his wife, Mimi, the villa at Quart-A-Nancy Point was constructed in the 1960s and 70s as a labour of love and has been immaculately cared for and completely renovated by the current owners since 2005. Visitors enjoy fresh tropical breezes and hear the soothing sounds of the waves with the ocean just below the house. The best snorkelling in the BVI is just footsteps away from the oceanfront home. The property offers homeowners and guests the opportunity to feel like they are the only ones on the island,

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but with an amazing secret perk: access to the restaurant, rum bar, brewery, and dive shop at the worldrenowned Cooper Island Beach Club and eco-resort is just a short dinghy ride away. Besides having one of the best views in the world, it is also one of the most popular feeding grounds for turtles and a location for the rarely-found seahorses of the BVI. A truly exceptional waterfront property, this 2.75-acre retreat provides a rare island living experience. Three ample bedrooms and two bathrooms offer comfortable living conditions, while the gem of the property is the outdoor living areas and a fantastic view. Overlooking Manchioneel Bay

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

Outdoor living offers expansive views of five islands. Fully solar-operated, the home is self-sustaining and eco-friendly. A full kitchen, courtyard and open areas offer plenty of space for entertaining. RIGHT The villa is perfect for those wanting peace, quiet, and for harmonious living with nature.

and the Sir Francis Drake Channel, the verandah offers spectacular 180-degree Western views of the Caribbean sea, including at least five islands: Tortola, Peter Island, Salt Island, St. John and St. Thomas. Views of Ginger Island and Virgin Gorda are also available from the east side of the property, and on a clear day, St. Croix can be seen to the south.

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E XC L U S I V E C OV E R F E AT U R E


E XC L U S I V E C OV E R F E AT U R E

AN ARTIST’S DREAM Bill and Mimi Hook came to Cooper Island in 1961 to pursue artistic endeavours. Loving the BVI so much, the Hooks built Quart-A-Nancy Point and enjoyed years of island living. An avid chess player, Bill became the captain of the BVI chess team, and Quart-A-Nancy Point hosted many chess tournaments and get-togethers in the 1970s. Hook was the BVI’s top player for many years, participating in a record 16 Chess Olympiads, winning the gold medal on first board in 1980. He published a book, “Hooked on Chess”, about his experiences in 2007.

A cool and shady courtyard with barbecue area offers additional outdoor space, and the home also includes a garage and a boathouse. A private dock makes this home a yachtsman’s paradise, but this turnkey sale also includes a 25ft Pursuit Center Console cuddy w/2ea Mercury, 175hp two-stroke outboards 2009, 12ft AB dinghy w/ 25hp Yamaha Enduro two-stroke engine, backup Mercury 5hp twostroke engine, engine stand and hand cart trailer. For the ultimate private outer island living experience, nothing beats Quart-A-Nancy Point. An idyllic location and easy access to Cooper Island Beach Club provides the best of both worlds that Caribbean living has to offer: quiet, peaceful solitude and sun, fun and an unforgettable view. ■

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QUART-A-NANCY POINT COOPER ISLAND

• 3 bed 2 full bath private residence • Fully solar powered with battery reserve banks • 2 ea Gasoline powered backup generators • Upper Garage at house • Concrete and Timber Dock with private boat landing for dinghy trailer and shorefront garage storage • 25ft Pursuit Center console cuddy w/2ea Mercury, 175hp two strokeoutboards 2009 • 12ft AB dinghy w/ 25hp Yamaha Enduro two stoke engine, 2018 • backup Mercury 5hp two stroke engine, engine stand and hand cart trailer. • 30 minute boat crossing to Cooper Island from Tortola either by private boat or charter

PRESENTED BY BVI SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY. FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT:

Maritha Keil Managing Director/ Lead Broker maritha@bvisir.com +1 (284) 340-5555 (Cell or WhatsApp) +1 (284) 494-5700 (Office) email: maritha@bvisir.com bvisothebysrealty.com

US $$2,575,000 bvipropertyyacht.com


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VILLAS & VIEWS

Creating calm A serene and restful bedroom isn’t far away; this piece has tips for creating your own oasis BY MORGANA TILLING P H OTO G R A P H Y CO U R T E SY O F S M I T H S G O R E

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The bedroom should be a place to get away from life’s many distractions. Less clutter is a good first step.

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VILLAS & VIEWS

WHO DOES NOT like a comfortable and calming bedroom? A place that is just for you, your sanctuary. Pillows are full and plump, some fresh flowers, your favourite book, a well-organised closet full of beautiful clothes. Your bedroom should be a beautiful space that you can escape to, somewhere where you can breathe, relax and retreat to when you need some space to yourself. As we welcome a new year in there is no better time to take stock of what you need and ensure that your bedroom is a true escape. Sometimes it’s so easy for your bedroom to become a clutter zone: unmade beds, clothes on the floor or chair and a dusty bedside table with way too much stuff on it. The first step to creating “heaven” is to reduce the clutter. Think of what you would like in your bedroom: a comfortable bed with fresh, clean, crisp sheets, mood lighting, and maybe a few pieces by your favourite artist on the walls.

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Looking at your phone, laptop or even TV makes it harder for the brain to shut down and permit sleep at bedtime

Take a deep breath and start getting rid of unnecessary items to make this happen. Ideally, bedrooms are for sleeping, but in reality, they become an office, a place to watch your favourite TV show and somewhere the dog feels right at home. By allowing other things and people to take over your space, you are moving away from the bedroom’s primary purpose as a place for relaxation. Concentrate on calming colours and objects that please you. Think of how a particular colour makes you feel before you start painting your bedroom; do the same with objects. How does it make you feel? If you are big on meditating or yoga, incorporate an area in your room

with subdued lighting, big cushions or a workout mat that is not your bed. A calm bedroom should be free of phones and TVs (to each their own). Why not start a journal to write your thoughts and feelings down? Just think of how easy it would be to unwind, relax and fall asleep in a clean and uncluttered space free from distractions. It is widely believed that looking at your phone, laptop or even TV makes it harder for the brain to shut down and permit sleep at bedtime. Try and be more disciplined

ABOVE Soft lighting and

minimal screens means less stimulation for your brain, making relaxation and sleep easier.

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Vacation Villas Let our experienced team find you the perfect villa for your getaway to the beautiful British Virgin Islands. Our varied portfolio can accommodate couples to large groups, all with breathtaking views and stunning surroundings. Get in touch today to start planning your vacation of a lifetime!

TINGALAYO West End, Tortola

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6

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VILLAS & VIEWS

• Take a warm bath before bed with your favourite essential oils like lavender or eucalyptus • Keep some fresh flowers on your bedside table • Do some gentle stretches, or some yoga poses to release any tension before bed • Use a relaxing linen spray on your pillow before going to bed • Sip a cup of herbal tea like chamomile

about when you stop working on your computer or check your messages on your phone. It is very important to allow yourself “downtime” free from distractions and light that is overly stimulating.

Top tips Here are a few tips to enhance your bedroom and have a good night’s sleep • Power off your gadgets • Crisp, clean bed linens BCQS_VIPY_ThridPG-Horizontal_Feb-Issue_PRINT.pdf

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1

2019-04-15

• Listen to calming music • Write in a journal • Avoid alcohol a couple of hours before you want to go to sleep • Read a few chapters of a book. Most people never make it to chapter two. • Have a light with a dimmer in your room so you can gradually dim the lights before you go to sleep. Namaste and Happy New Year! ■

12:42 PM

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ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN

p u g n i k Wa wellness to


Architectural design can affect not only your mood but improve overall health and longevity B Y O B M I N T E R N AT I O N A L P H O T O G R A P H Y C O U R T E S Y O F O B M I N T E R N AT I O N A L

WELLNESS AND A healthy lifestyle are undoubtedly one of the dominant trends of the moment around the world. As awareness and attention to health increases, so does the demand for the buildings in which we live, work and play to be designed to improve health, mind and wellbeing. As the collective shifts towards a new model of holistic wellbeing, homes beautifully designed with wellness at their core and centred around a healthy lifestyle are becoming more important than ever. Here’s a look at three design approaches on the rise that are enhancing the health and well being of homeowners.

The Healing Use of Light By now, we all know that low access to daylight can be detrimental to our health. Passive lighting, ample windows, or lighting that imitates daylight is not only an easy way to boost the general wellness of occupants but can also help to increase productivity. Wellness design expert, Vivianne Garcia-TuĂąon of Wonder Flower Spa & Wellness, sees luxury homeowners taking advantage of light therapy methods currently being examined in the healthcare field to prevent wrinkles, heal joints and fight a cold, all from the comforts of home.

A Mindful Kitchen Spaces that were just for cooking and eating are now being re-thought to promote life-enhancing daily habits and rituals. Simply put, people care more about the freshness and quality LEFT Access to natural light can boost energy and productivity.

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ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN

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LEFT Modern kitchens are all about functional beauty.

BOTTOM LEFT Technology

can help make a home better, like automated shades that adjust to the sun’s brightness. RIGHT Innovative uses of windows can help large rooms feel brighter.

of their food, and our kitchens will increasingly be designed to store and even showcase fresh, organic products. Some changes we may see in coming years is are the walk-in pantry transforming into a walk-in hydroponic farm and large interactive centre islands with several designated stations for food prepping, cutting, and dehydration, an important method of cooking for vegans.

Merging Technology & Biophilic Design New tech is developing that connects plants to computers to monitor things like daylight and air quality. Some

DESIGN FOR STRONG CULTURE OBMI architects design modern office spaces that bring energy and drive performance, positioning your organization for success.

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ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN

Natural elements contribute to wellbeing by drawing us closer to nature.

designers are testing the intersection of architecture with other disciplines, such as microbiology or horticulture, to literally ‘grow’ building structures or graph tree cells onto a framework to create a living structure. Additionally, plants are showing up as finishes, vertical gardens, organic materials to replace synthetics and decor that use organic patterns (biophilia) and colour palettes to create a healthier environment and provide healthier spaces for people. With more than 740 wellness real estate and community developments built or in development across 34 countries, according to the Global Wellness Institute, wellness is one of the fastest-growing trends in the building industry. As a result, expect to see even greater interest for wellness innovations as high-end home buyers search for a natural, holistic approach to achieve improved physical and mental health through their living environment. â–

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Lifestyle Protection

SMOOTH SAILING AHEAD From happy beginnings to happy ever after, we intended to make our mark.And we did. Colonial Insurance has been providing the best insurance cover at the best possible price in the British Virgin Islands since 2005. Our intention was to make our mark as a member of our local business community. Colonial Insurance (BVI) Limited is now rated A- (Excellent) by A. M. Best. That’s an internationally recognised rating for financial strength. For you, it means more cover and more security for your livelihood and lifestyle. For us, it means we’ve made our mark. Call 494-8450 /495-6403 or visit www.cgigroup.com

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RE-BUILDING BVI

A FRESH START

After Hurricane Irma devastated the BVI, Rufred Forbes and Associates stepped in to help rebuild. And the students and teachers at Bregado Flax Educational Centre are now enjoying a revitalised school BY SARA SHERMAN P H O T O G R A P H Y C O U R T E S Y O F R U F R E D F O R B E S A N D A S S O C I AT E S

RUFRED FORBES AND Associates (RFA) has been leading the construction industry in the BVI for more than four decades. Founded by Rufred Forbes, the company is now managed by Rufred’s son Cortez and provides contracting and construction services for all kinds of projects throughout the territory including building restoration and renovation works, new construction and infrastructure projects. An expert team of mechanical, electrical and plumbing tradesmen makes for a

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skilled labour force, and the necessary tools and heavy equipment needed for a variety of jobs means RFA can handle projects of any size. After Hurricane Irma in 2017, RFA has been busy helping the community rebuild better than ever. The Bregado Flax Educational Centre on Virgin Gorda was badly damaged in the storm, and RFA was contracted to complete the reconstruction and restoration of the two-story block building. A new metal composite deck roof and all windows and

doors were replaced. New internal and external tile and floor coverings were installed, along with revamped restrooms and a new wastewater treatment system. The older building’s infrastructure was also reevaluated, and the electrical components of the school were updated to current code

ABOVE The team at Rufred Forbes and Associates renovated and revamped a devastated school into a modern building where Virgin Gorda kids can learn.

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and building standards. The project took nine months to complete and RFA worked closely with benefactor UNITE BVI to ensure all school requirements were met. “During the demolition phase of the work, we realized the existing beams on the roof were no longer structurally sound,” said Lorraine Clancy, RFA Commercial Manager/ Quantity Surveyor. “So with recommendations and design detail from the Project Engineer, CSE, we had to strengthen the beams.” Much of the school was fully operational while restoration and reconstruction projects were being completed, so RFA took special care ensuring a safe site to rebuild. Completing projects on time and within budget is a challenge of this

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The Bregado Flax Educational Centre on Virgin Gorda was badly damaged in the storm, and RFA was contracted to complete the reconstruction and restoration of the two-story block building.

industry, especially when working on post-hurricane projects with many moving parts. Production delays, supplier pricing, unknown ground conditions and even weather play a big part in how a project progresses. With access to materials being a significant hurdle after a major hurricane, the project moved forward as quickly as possible. “After Hurricane Irma, students and teachers were dealing with

learning in rough environmental conditions, and they have dealt with the situation remarkably. Therefore, the most rewarding part of our involvement with the BFEC project was knowing we were working towards helping the kids within the Virgin Gorda community to get back to a normal, full school day, and provide the teachers and pupils with a new and improved version of their school,” said Clancy. ■

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BVI YACHT CHARTERING 101 Prospective yacht charterers should know what their options are. Below is a brief guide to the different types of sailing vacations you can book in the BVI. BY CONOR KING DEVITT

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INTERESTED IN CHARTERING a yacht to explore the British Virgin Islands? Whether you want to hike, fish, scuba dive, surf, or just drink rum in the sun, you’ll have plenty of options. But in order to make the most of those vacation choices, there’s a certain degree of sailing industry lingo you should familiarise yourself with before embarking. Boats in the BVI yachting industry can broadly be split into two categories: “bareboats” and “crewed yachts.” Bareboats, largely chartered in mega-fleets like The Moorings, are operated and provisioned entirely by the guests who rent them. Sometimes, companies will temporarily assign a captain to a rental to determine the client’s competence. Janet Oliver, the executive director of the BVI Charter Yacht Society, estimates that 95 per cent of the yachts currently sailing in the territory – roughly 650-700 vessels – are bareboats.

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A much smaller chunk – Oliver estimates 45 boats – are crewed yachts. These boats are permanently staffed, usually by a captain and a chef, and maintained at a high level of luxury. Booking with a crewed yacht means every one of your needs – cooking, cleaning, provisioning, sailing, etc. – will be taken care of throughout the week of your vacation. They tend to offer more expensive, tailor-made tourism experiences. There are some hybrid forms: Tourists who don’t have sailing experience or a desire to handle a boat can book a bareboat captain or crew to guide them around the islands. This isn’t the same thing as a crewed yacht, however. The bareboat crew isn’t typically hired to facilitate every aspect of your tourism experience – their role will mostly be centred on transportation.

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Oliver provides a useful metaphor to help clarify the distinction: Booking a bareboat, she explains, is like booking a rental car, booking a bareboat with a crew is like calling a taxi, and chartering a crewed yacht is like hiring a limousine. Bareboats are often booked directly through a charter company. Tourists looking to hire a crewed yacht, however, often go through “charter yacht brokers” – specialised travel agents who know the crews personally and put customised sailing vacations together. Kathleen Mullen, the director of Regency Yacht Vacations, a brokerage based in Road Town, says understanding the human element is one of the most important aspects of her job. “A big thing is the crew,” she explains, “They’re human beings. It’s in a small space. Brokers have that first-hand knowledge.” If a foodie is looking to charter a yacht, Mullen will set them up on a boat with a high-end chef. If she’s working with a big family, she can

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While the yachting busy season has traditionally run from mid-December through April, the broker notes bookings are now consistent through May, June and July as well. point them towards energetic, young crews ready to spend a week launching them from one activity to the next. If an elderly couple is looking for a relaxing, informative vacation, she’ll match them with a conversational crew with expansive knowledge of the islands and their history. Brokers take deposits from clients and contact “clearing houses,” the administrative centres for individually owned and operated crewed yachts, to make bookings. After contracts are exchanged, the crew of the booked yacht will reach out to the clients to customise their vacation, and the client’s money will be held in an escrow account until 10 days prior to the start of the charter. Although crewed yachts do come

with a higher initial price tag, Mullen notes that overall costs often come within only a 10 per cent difference of bareboat vacations, given bareboaters have to cover additional costs like provisions, insurance, etc. Mullen suggests booking crewed yachts at least a year in advance, particularly if you don’t have a ton of flexibility with dates. While the yachting busy season has traditionally run from mid-December through April, the broker notes bookings are now consistent through May, June and July as well. Few boats are available to charter during the peak of hurricane season in August, September and October. Mullen also notes customers interested in docking at high-end

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resorts have slightly fewer options in the wake of the destructive 2017 hurricane season. “People who might have stopped and checked out higher-end resorts, those are still not back online to the extent that we would like,” she says. “But I find that most clients are happy keeping it low-key. And they can still go to Oil Nut Bay. And Scrub Island is back open. So, it’s not like there are not any choices.” Some repeat tourists have even preferred the less-developed experiences they’ve had post-2017, Mullen explains. Harbours are less crowded, and the BVI looks more like the old-style Caribbean landscape of decades past. Besides offering administrative help, Mullen has one signature piece of advice she likes to offer clients about to embark on a charter. “One thing I would tell prospective charter clients to do is to get on a boat, take a deep breath and relax,” she says. “Nothing is set in stone. Everything will be taken care of.” ■

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T R AV E L

BEAUTY AFTER DESTRUCTION Despite wreaking havoc on the Abaco Islands and Grand Bahama Island in September, Hurricane Dorian left a wide swath of the Bahamas intact - and more beautiful than ever. BY A M A N DA U L R I C H

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The Bahamas consists of more than 700 islands and cays, many of which were not harmed by Hurricane Dorian.

MUCH LIKE THE Virgin Islands after Hurricane Irma in 2017, the main message now from the Bahamas is: we’re open for business. The Bahamas is made up of over 700 islands and cays, many of which are welcoming visitors to return and support local tourism. Nassau, one of the most popular and populous Bahamian destinations, is up and running (and mega-resort Atlantis Paradise Island is still humming along, too). But arguably the real jewels of the archipelago are its “Out Islands,” the more remote islands strung along the southeastern tip of Florida like a constellation. And Eleuthera, Cat Island and Long Island are some of the most idyllic places to visit first.

Eleuthera, meaning “free” Eleuthera, along with its sister island to the north, Harbour Island, lies roughly 60 miles from Nassau. The long, sandy expanse of an island holds meaning for a lot of reasons – one being that it’s considered by many to be the birthplace of the Bahamas. A group of European settlers sailing from Bermuda ended up there in the mid-1600s, naming it after the Greek word “eleutheros,” meaning “free” or “freedom.”

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And Eleuthera lives up to its name. It’s ringed by unpopulated, white-sand beaches, many of which are frequently devoid of tourists or anyone at all. One of the island’s most striking landmarks is the Glass Window Bridge: the narrowest part of Eleuthera. A thin stretch of rocks is the only thing dividing the dark blues waves of the Atlantic and the turquoise waters of the Exuma Sound. One of the most compelling reasons to visit Eleuthera is its range of Caribbean cuisine. A fish fry is held every Friday night in Anchor Bay, which attracts both visitors and locals. There’s an emphasis on fish, of course – fried whole with a side of rice and potato salad – but conch

ABOVE Miles of beaches, sandbars and cays mean visitors can have the beauty of the Bahamas all to themselves. LEFT Colourful architecture and friendly residents add to the Bahamas’ charm. RIGHT Watersport options are plentiful and there is something for everyone!

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salad steals the show. The conch, still dripping from the ocean, is diced and mixed with tomatoes, onion, green peppers and a squeeze of citrus. Sip Sip, a traditional-style restaurant on Harbour Island, also serves Bahamian food with a twist, like conch curry, Johnnycake and boil fish. The restaurant’s name is derived from the Bahamian patois word for “gossip.”

Cat Island and Long Island The next major island down the chain from Eleuthera is Cat Island: an epicentre of Bahamian history and culture. According to the Bahamas tourist board, Cat Island is home to much of the country’s folklore, as well as its native Rake ‘n’ Scrape music. Rake ‘n’ Scrape is typically played with unlikely instruments, like a saw, a piece of wood, fishing line, a tin washtub or a goatskin drum. Every June, the island has its own festival to celebrate the music and also features dances and local food. Elsewhere on Cat Island, a medieval-style mini monastery called The Hermitage sits atop Mount Alvernia (also known as Como Hill), the highest point in the Bahamas at 206 feet. A hike up the hill will take you to the monastery, which was hand-carved in 1939. Long Island – true to its name – is next in line geographically after Cat Island. The island is made up of two very different coasts; the western side is dotted with beaches, while the eastern is defined by wild, rocky bluffs. Dean’s Blue Hole, thought to be one of the deepest blue holes (or underwater caverns) in the world, is one of Long Island’s most famous attractions. Freedivers often test their abilities by plunging into the

RIGHT Bahamian cuisine is full of flavour and filled with seafood.

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Dean’s Blue Hole is thought to be one of the deepest blue holes (or underwater caverns) in the world

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663-foot hole, but scuba divers and snorkelers can also experience the cavern. Also on Long Island, an ancient cave system called Hamilton’s Cave features artefacts and drawings from the Lucayan Indians, who called the region home hundreds of years ago.

Getting there Visitors can take smaller planes to all three islands from Nassau’s main airport, or book select flights from Florida. Despite Dorian, the North Eleuthera Airport (ELH) and the Stella Maris Airport (SML) and Deadman’s Cay Airport (LGI) on Long Island have all been reported as open. ■ LEFT Dean’s Blue Hole is a popular site for freedivers to explore

RIGHT Steeped in history, the

Bahamas are thought to have been discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1492.

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Dock, Dine, and Discover

MARINA VILLAGE AT O I L N U T B AY Marina Village at Oil Nut Bay offers relaxed outdoor dining, breezy covered lounging, and boutique island shopping. Anchored by Nova, our signature overwater restaurant, visitors can dine on exceptional cuisine or enjoy the suspended pool, bar, overwater hammocks, daybeds and more. BERTHS IN THE OIL NUT BAY MARINA ARE AVAILABLE FOR OVERNIGHT STAYS FOR BOATS UP TO 130 FEET. MOORING BALLS ARE AVAILABLE IN DEEP BAY WITH TEN BALLS FOR BOATS UP TO 60 FEET AND ONE BALL FOR BOATS UP TO 120 FEET.

US: 1 800-761-0377 | BVI: 1 284-393-1000 info@oilnutbay.com

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