Explore Dunedin 2023-24 by Allied Press Ltd

E A T / D R I N K

S H O P

E X P L O R E

EXPLORE FREE GUIDE 2023/24

DISCOVER WHAT THE LOCALS ALREADY KNOW... CULTURE, FOOD, HISTORY, ARCHITECTURE, WILDLIFE, FOOD AND DRINKS, KIDS, PARKS, BEACHES, PEOPLE, AND MORE

Treat yourself Step into the bright and welcome space at Wall Street Mall, where you’ll find a mix of local retailers and familiar international brands for fashion, food and health & beauty. You can browse the fashion racks, find a gift, try a new blend from the extensive range of exotic teas. Why not spoil yourself with a relaxing massage, a mani-pedi spa package, or a beauty bar treatment. Grab a bite to eat while you are here; some sushi or one of Joonis infamous crepes, or something truly scrumptious from Marbecks café, or simply take a seat and gaze up at the sky through the glass ceiling of our three-storey high atrium.

211 George Street, just down from the Octagon

The only place in town to experience our specialty Dry Aged Steaks.

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10, THE OCTAGON

@PROHIBITIONSMOKEHOUSE WWW.PROHIBITIONSMOKEHOUSE.CO.NZ/RESERVATIONS

Local ingredients, Shared Plates, Vibrant Bar & Restaurant 21, THE OCTAGON

WWW.VAULT21.CO.NZ/RESERVE

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contents

EXPLORE DUNEDIN 2023-24 www.exploredunedin.co.nz Editor: Gavin Bertram. gavin.bertram@alliedpress.co.nz Design: Michael D’Evereux Sales manager: Nic Dahl. nic.dahl@alliedpress.co.nz Photos: DunedinNZ, Roady, Geoff Marks, Allied Press, Speight’s Ale House, Getty Images. Maps: Basemap/Allan J. Kynaston General enquiries to Explore Dunedin: PO Box 517, Dunedin 9054. Phone (03) 479-3545 Published by Allied Press Ltd, 52 Stuart St, Dunedin 9016. © 2023. All rights reserved

7 From the Mayor 9 Essential information 10-11 What’s on 13 A rich history 15 Taking care of business 17 Made of stone 18-19 Now look here! 20-21 Dunedin’s got game 22 Shopping around 26-27 Central Dunedin map 28-29 Port Chalmers map and information 30-31 Exploring Dunedin further 32-33 On your bike 34 Into the wild 35 Otago Peninsula 36 All dressed up 37 Dunedin Designed’s Craig Scott 38 City of literature 39 Arts and culture 40-41 Beaches/Fun and games 42 A classic 1980 test 43 Good sports 44 Walk this way 45 Gardens of Dunedin 46 Dining out 47 In good spirits 48-49 Accommodation directory 50 The Beatles’ 1964 visit

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5 / EXPLORE DUNEDIN | WWW.EXPLOREDUNEDIN.CO.NZ

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7 / WELCOME

KIA ORA, WELCOME TO EXPLORE DUNEDIN ŌTEPOTI DUNEDIN may be a small city but it’s a great place to visit, with many amazing experiences on offer.

Being in a new city is always exciting, but finding your way around can of course be challenging. Explore Dunedin will help you to quickly find and explore all the best things that Dunedin has on offer, so that you can pack even more into your visit. As well as a wealth of information about the place and its many attractions, you’ll find easy-to-navigate street maps of the inner-city and Port Chalmers. Explore Dunedin digs into what makes Dunedin one of the great small cities, uncovering its multiple treasures including

architecture, culture, street art, fashion, food, wildlife, gardens and much more. And whether you’re looking for a supermarket, pharmacy, bank, post office, or require a doctor or dentist, you’ll find what you need within these pages. Also at your fingertips will be where to find souvenir and gift shops, malls, specialty retail outlets, restaurants, cafes, and other places of interest. We hope that Explore Dunedin will contribute towards making your time in the city a memorable experience.

Welcome to Ōtepoti Dunedin, one of New Zealand’s most scenic and historic cities. Dunedin is a unique mix of natural wonders, rare wildlife and stunning heritage attractions. It is a place where gothic architecture meets sweeping coastal landscapes, a wonderful mix of offbeat urban charm and cinematic surrounds. Experience Dunedin’s grand buildings and get a glimpse of the opulent past by visiting some of its many heritage sites. The Otago Peninsula is a worldrenowned eco-tourism destination and home to some of the rarest wildlife around, including many endangered species such as the yellow-eyed penguin. As the only city in Aotearoa New Zealand to hold the title of UNESCO City of Literature, Dunedin boasts a strong creative scene. Our cultural institutions, include the first public art gallery, oldest university, and oldest working brewery. If culinary experiences are what you seek most, Dunedin won’t disappoint. With one of the best farmers markets in the country, a thriving café and restaurant scene and an ever-growing stable of destination breweries and distilleries, it’s easy to taste your way around the city’s fantastic offerings. Visit New Zealand’s oldest castle, the world’s only mainland colony of royal albatross, and tackle the steepest street on the planet all in one day. It’s recommended that you take your time to explore Dunedin, so I invite you to return so you can stay longer and discover the many hidden gems and experiences that await. Whether this is your first or last port of call, Dunedin is bound to be one of the highlights of your trip. Jules Radich Mayor of Dunedin

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New Zealand’s Only Castle

Award Winning Attraction

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Enquire at Dunedin I-SITE for transport options to the Castle

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION FOR VISITORS IN CASE OF EMERGENCY... Dial 111 for Police, Ambulance, or Fire Brigade. MEDICAL Dunedin Public Hospital Accident and Emergency Department: Open 24 hours, 201 Great King St. Urgent Doctors 18 Filleul St, phone (03) 479-2900. Open 8am-10pm. Urgent Pharmacy 18 Filleul St, phone (03) 477-6344. Open 10am-10pm. Urgent Dentist Call the urgent doctors above and they’ll give you the number of the dentist on duty. Disability resource centre 10 George St, phone (03) 471-6152 or 0800 115 891. www.livingwellcentre.nz

POLICE

The Dunedin Central Police Station is at 25 Great King St in the central city. Phone (03) 471-4800.

i-SITE VISITOR CENTRE Located in the Octagon, Dunedin’s i-Site Visitor Centre is the place to make bookings for tours, access self-guided tour routes, find maps and bus timetables, and read up on a range of activities available around the city.

BANKING

Foreign currency can easily be exchanged at most banks and hotels. ATM cash machines are found throughout the city, all major credit cards are accepted and nearly all businesses have EFTPOS.

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9 / ESSENTIALS

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10 / EVENTS

A vibrant and dynamic small city, there’s always something going on in Dunedin.

WHAT’S ON IN DUNEDIN

Dunedin Fringe Festival is a feast of arts. NOVEMBER

Bill Bailey - Thoughtifier Dunedin Town Hall, 8pm, November 7

Returning to Dunedin, Bailey brings his trademark musical stylings and characteristic wit. Thoughtifier sees him taking a journey of thought, its history, and how it might help humanity survive. This is “superb stand-up”, according to Time Out magazine. DECEMBER

Christmas in Vienna Mosgiel Coronation Hall, 11am, December 21

Get into the Christmas spirit and be swept away by magic, romance, and elegance with Operatunity’s Christmas in Vienna. There will be beautiful Viennese waltzes including Vienna City of Dreams, and The Blue Danube, along with Christmas carol favourites. JANUARY

Black Caps vs Bangladesh T20 University of Otago Oval, 17 January

Following the World Cup in India, the Black Caps return home for series against Bangladesh, Pakistan, South Africa, and Australia. Dunedin hosts a December ODI with Bangladesh, and this enticing T20 encounter with Pakistan. The White Ferns also play here in early December.

The Midwinter Carnival is an annual highlight. FEBRUARY

JUNE

The city will host the 35th New Zealand Masters Games during early February. It’s the largest Masters multisport event in the country with over 5000 participants competing in over 60 sporting codes. There’s also a great programme of entertainment in the evenings.

Taking place on a weekend around the Winter Solstice, the carnival is a creative wonderland celebrating the distinctive seasons of the south. There are lantern processions, dance performances, food trucks, live music, performers in the trees, and stunning projections.

New Zealand Masters Games Various venues, February 3-11

MARCH

Dunedin Fringe Festival Various venues, March 14-24

The southernmost fringe festival, this is an excellent annual event that encompasses theatre, comedy, music, dance, and the arts. The Dunedin Fringe attracts artists from throughout New Zealand and overseas with a mix of established and emerging artists. APRIL

Wild Dunedin NZ Festival of Nature Various venues, April 19-28

There’ll be over 100 events over 10 days during the school holidays, with lots of free activities where children can learn about nature, new foodie events for adults, gardening, science, and some exciting outdoor adventures. MAY

Highlanders vs Crusaders Forsyth Barr Stadium, May 11

Since winning the Super Rugby competition in 2015, the local Highlanders have seesawed on the table. Having placed ninth in 2023 they’ll be hoping for better in 2024, and the home grudge match against the neighbours and reigning champs is always a highlight.

Dunedin Midwinter Carnival First Church, June 21-22

JULY

Most Wuthering Heights Day, Octagon, Date TBC

Dunedin has embraced an event that grows in popularity each year - the celebration of revered musician Kate Bush’s birthday. See the crowd of red-clad dancers in the Octagon, prancing in the manner of Bush in the Wuthering Heights video. Or perhaps join in? AUGUST

Whānau Mārama: New Zealand International Film Festival Various venues, date TBC

With a vast programme of high quality cinema, the Festival is the highlight on New Zealand’s film calendar. It’s been running in Dunedin since 1977, and now includes around 75 features, as well as shorts, in the city’s best cinemas including the Regent Theatre’s 1920’s ambience.

International cricket at the University of Otago Oval.

(Photo:s DunedinNZ)

The Emerson's Dunedin Marathon skirts the harbour.

SEPTEMBER

OCTOBER

Run annually from 1979, the Dunedin Marathon offers 5km, 10km, half marathon, and full marathon distances. It’s one of the most scenic in New Zealand, run on a picturesque harbourside route. All events finish in front of the Emerson’s Brewery.

A hidden Dunedin gem, the Rhododendron Dell at the Botanic Gardens is in full bloom come midspring. Expect an explosion of colour, with well over 2000 rhododendron plants, some planted more than 150 years ago. There’s an annual garden fete held on the Sunday before Labour Day, with a plant sale and tours of the Dell.

Emerson’s Dunedin Marathon Dunedin Harbour, date TBC

Rhododendron Day Dunedin Botanic Gardens, Sunday October 20

Visit Dunedin’s best loved museum of social history

Taoka of Tūhura Otago Museum Tour 11.30am, daily Duration: 45 minutes $38 Adults, $23 Children

OPEN 7 DAYS | FREE ENTRY | FREE WIFI 10am – 5pm | Closed Christmas Day 31 Queens Gardens, Dunedin P (03) 477 5052

www.toituosm.com

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11 / EVENTS

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13 / HISTORY

RICH IN HISTORY

(Photo: DunedinNZ)

(Photo: William Meluish/Te Papa)

Dunedin/Ōtepoti is New Zealand’s first city - and a city of firsts.

Left: Dunedin during the Otago Gold Rush in 1861. Below: The city is anchored by its rich heritage.

Dunedin is a place anchored by its heritage, a university city, with a wealth of cultural riches on offer. Maori settled around the harbour first: Waitaha, Kāti Māmoe, and Kāi Tahu. European settlers came - whalers and sealers, followed in 1848 by Scottish Free Church pilgrims, seeking freedom. They imagined a city, and called it Dunedin (an

Anglicized form of the Gaelic for Edinburgh). The Otago Gold Rush of the 1860s brought wealth and laid the foundations for Dunedin’s rich heritage. Schools, the University of Otago, and other still cherished amenities and institutions were built. Gold also attracted other peoples, including the Chinese in 1865 to rework the Central Otago goldfields,

and there were also strong Jewish and Lebanese communities. The Dunedin landscape, the climate, and the cultural mix has produced a grounded and creative population of over 130,000. Many from out of town come here to study, to experience the outstanding wildlife, the heritage architecture. They’re also wowed by the food, the street art, the surf, sporting facilities, and so much more.

W H AT M A D E D U N E D I N ? Some of the events that created the Dunedin of today. 12 million years BP Dunedin Volcano active. 1330s First Māori arrive. 1725 Arrival of Ngāi Tahu. 1770 Cook’s Endeavour sails by. 1815 William Tucker the first European settler. 1840 Treaty of Waitangi signed by local chiefs. 1848 Dunedin is founded, with the first Scottish settlers.

1861 The Central Otago Gold Rush begins. 1865 Dunedin becomes New Zealand’s first city. 1871 University of Otago is the first in the country. 1878 Railway to Christchurch completed. 1882 First shipment of refrigerated meat leaves Port Chalmers. 1884 Dunedin Public Art Gallery founded by William Hodgkins. 1906 Dunedin Railway Station opened. 1914 First flight over Dunedin

made by James Scotland. 1921 New Zealand’s first radio broadcast made by Prof Robert Jack. 1925 Three million visitors to New Zealand and South Seas International Exhibition. 1932 The Great Depression spurs riots. 1954 Queen Elizabeth II visits on Coronation tour. 1961 MS Seven Seas first cruise ship to visit. 1962 Momona Airport opens. 1964 The Beatles perform two Town Hall shows. 1972

Now world-famous Dunedin Longitudinal Study begins. 1981 ‘Dunedin Sound’ begins with The Clean’s Tally Ho. 1987 Baldwin St recognised as world’s steepest. 1989 New boundaries make Dunedin New Zealand’s biggest city. 1994 First international flight to the city arrives. 2011 Elton John opens Forsyth Barr Stadium. 2014 Dunedin became a UNESCO City of Literature. 2015 Highlanders are Super Rugby champions.

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15 / BUSINESS

TAKING CARE OF BUSINESS

(Photo: DunedinNZ)

From its colonial beginnings to the present day, Dunedin has been home to innovative business.

Speight’s Brewery has been a Dunedin landmark since 1876. THE CITY’S early development as a major commercial centre was a consequence of the Central Otago Goldrush of the 1860s. That phenomenon saw Dunedin burgeon overnight, attracting hard working entrepreneurs with a vision for the new colony. Brands including Shacklock, Hallensteins, Hudsons, Greggs, Bell Tea, Methvens, and Speight’s were all born in this atmosphere of opportunity. H.E. Shacklock pioneered the manufacture of coal ranges, especially with the Orion. By 1894 Shacklock appliances were being sold throughout New Zealand, and the company went on to produce the country’s first electric range in 1925. In 1955 they were taken over by Fisher & Paykel, and that company still maintains a large design centre in Dunedin. Businessman Bendix Hallenstein opened the New Zealand Clothing Factory in Dunedin in 1873, which led to him opening his first store in the city. Hallensteins, like his other enterprise The D.I.C. department stores became national chains. The D.I.C. was bought out by rival Arthur Barnett in the 1980s. Hudson’s Biscuits boomed in Dunedin from 1868, when Richard

Wild Dispensary is located in the historic Bond Quarter.

Hudson built his first bakehouse. Soon, his chocolate and cocoa manufacturing plant was also operating. In 1930 Hudson’s joined with Cadbury to make New Zealand’s first Cadbury Dairy Milk chocolate bar. A year later, the first Jaffas began rolling down cinema aisles around the country. Alongside chocolate, tea was another staple produced in Dunedin. Bell Tea, New Zealand’s oldest tea company, were here for over 100 years, starting in 1898. Tiger Tea was another institution in the city, with its enduring slogan “It’s so good, it goes further”. Traces of the company can still be spotted around town. Gregg’s has been a success story since Irish immigrant William Gregg established the company in 1861. Originally specialising in coffee and spice, their range has expanded over the decades. George Methven launched his Dunedin iron and brass foundry in 1886, and started making tapware a decade later. Now in its 137th year, Methven continues to innovate, and the company operates in several territories internationally. Another grand stayer is of course Speight’s Brewery, which was established here by George Speight in 1876. Within 10 years they were

the biggest brewery in the country, and have remained an impressive presence since. Today you can take the Brewery Tour, and experience the hospitality at Speight’s Ale House. Other Dunedin companies that have survived through the years include handmade footwear manufacturers McKinlay’s (1879), beverage makers West’s (1876), food company Harraways (1867), and Otago Furniture (1868). In 1913, J & AP Scott was established as an engineering repair company. It has grown and diversified over the years, and now manufactures advanced automation systems for industry around the world. A thriving technology sector is also now stepping up to contemporary business challenges. A new wave of Dunedin-founded companies has emerged over recent decades, many the product of the city’s tertiary education institutions. These include Education Perfect, Timely, ADInstruments, and gaming company Runaway Play. Both they and the heritage companies that are still here ensure that Dunedin’s legacy as a leader in innovation continues, with strengths in design, education, health, technology, manufacturing, food, and natural products.

SUMMER JOURNEYS Explore the beautiful scenery of Dunedin and the surrounding Otago region with Dunedin Railways Summer Journeys. Our iconic trips will take you along the coast to the village of Waitati on The Seasider, through the spectacular Taieri River Gorge on The Inlander or on a culture-packed day trip to the historic town of Oamaru on The Victorian.

To book a Dunedin Railways summer journey, visit www.dunedinrailways.co.nz, or the Dunedin i-SITE

MADE OF STONE Thanks to the 1860s Otago Gold Rush, Dunedin’s early affluence meant numerous majestic buildings were constructed. And thanks to a relative lack of growth during the middle of the 20th Century, the majority survived. As a result, the late historian Dr Rodney Wilson stated in 2009 that Dunedin could be a World Heritage Site due to its ‘‘astonishingly well-preserved architecture’’.

Dunedin Railway Station (Anzac Square) By many accounts the most photographed building in New Zealand, George Troup’s 1906 Renaissance Revivalist wonder is undoubtedly the jewel in Dunedin’s architectural crown. Dunedin Prison (High Street) Government Architect John Campbell was responsible for the 1896 Dunedin Prison, and the adjacent Police Station and Law Courts. Operational until 2007, it’s now run by a Trust. Law Courts (Stuart Street) Completed in 1902, Campbell’s Law Courts ominous presence is due to the Victorian Gothic styling and the dark breccia stone. It was fully refurbished in 2016. First Church (Moray Place) Robert Lawson’s 1873 Presbyterian First Church of Otago was an important development for the colonists. The neo gothic masterpiece remains prominent in the cityscape. Consultancy House (Bond Street) The Luttrell brothers modeled their 1910 New Zealand Express Company building on the lofty buildings of the Chicago School. It was New Zealand’s first skyscraper. (Photos: DunedinNZ)

BNZ Building (Cnr Princes and Rattray Streets) ‘‘It has a certain appearance of massiveness, combined with beauty and richness of design...’’ the Illustrated New Zealand Herald said of William Armson’s grand building in the 1880s.

Dunedin boasts an enviable built landscape, with plenty of impressive architectural sights around the central city.

The Octagon features some architectural highlights.

Dunedin Municipal Chambers (Octagon) The seat of the Dunedin City Council, Lawson’s 1880 neo-Renaissance civic building commands a powerful presence in the centre of town. St Paul’s Cathedral (Octagon) Home of the Anglican Diocese of Dunedin. Consecrated in 1919, it was designed by Sedding and Wheatley in England, with Dunedin’s Basil Hooper the supervising architect.

Dunedin Railway Station is New Zealand’s most photographed building.

Otago Boys’ High School (London Street) Looming over the city like something from Harry Potter, the gothic revivalist glory of Lawson’s Otago Boys’ main building was completed in 1885. University of Otago (Dunedin North) Maxwell Bury’s beautiful Registry Building is the main attraction on campus, but Ted McCoy’s 1970s concrete monolith the Richardson Building is also stunning. The University of Otago’s Registry Building. EXPLORE DUNEDIN | WWW.EXPLOREDUNEDIN.CO.NZ

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17 / ARCHITECTURE

H E R E ! L O O K

For those whose time in Dunedin is limited, we’ve narrowed it down to the 10 iconic places you must visit while here.

Lan Yuan celebrates the region’s Chinese heritage. (Photo: Dunedin NZ)

Tunnel Beach is a spectacular setting. (Photo: Dunedin NZ)

N O W

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18 / MUST DO

Baldwin Street is officially the steepest in the world. (Photo: Roady)

Olveston House offers a lens into Edwardian life. (Photo: Dunedin NZ)

NZ)

The eight-sided city centre is not Dunedin’s most famous route - that honour falls to what is officially the world’s steepest street. North East Valley’s Baldwin Street was first recognised by the Guinness Book of Records in 1987, before losing the title in 2019 to a Welsh pretender. That decision was reversed due to an appeal in 2020. Dunedin Botanic Garden

When it’s time for a green fix, the Dunedin Botanic Garden will tick all the boxes. New Zealand’s first botanic garden, it opened in 1863, and is now a six star Garden of International Significance. Across the more than 30 hectares you’ll find an impressive rose garden, New Zealand native plants, and superb plant collections from around the world. Dunedin Railway Station

Olveston House

Another jewel in Dunedin’s built heritage crown, Olveston was the home of businessman and philanthropist David Theomin and his family. His daughter Dorothy gifted the house and its stunning array of contents to the City of Dunedin upon her death in 1966. Nestled on the fringes of Dunedin’s Town Belt, Olveston serves as a lens into the city’s Edwardian era. Orokonui Ecosanctuary

Since 2007 Orokonui has been a flagship biodiversity project in the South Island. Surrounded by a predator fence, the 307 hectares of forest provides sanctuary to multiple species of plants and animals, including many native birds, bats, and tuatara. With various walks and tours on offer, as well as the visitor centre and Horopito Cafe, Orokonui offers a good day out. Taiaroa Head

While up to 100 trains a day steamed through at its peak, the Dunedin Railway Station is a quieter place now. Designed by George Troup, the 1906 Renaissance Revivalist building is the most photographed in New Zealand, and Dunedin Railways’ world class train trips still depart from there.

At the tip of the Otago Peninsula, Taiaroa Head was the site of a Maori pā established around 1650. During the Russian Scare of the 1880s defenses were built there, including an Armstrong disappearing gun that’s still in place. Taiaroa Head is also home to the Royal Albatross Centre - home to the only mainland albatross colony in the Southern Hemisphere.

Lan Yuan, Dunedin Chinese Garden

Tunnel Beach

One of only three authentic Chinese Gardens outside of China, Lan Yuan commemorates the place of Chinese people in Dunedin. Opened in 2008, it was attracting over 30,000 people annually just a few years later. As well as being a lovely place to visit, the Garden is also a popular venue for weddings and functions. Larnach Castle

With a captivating history stretching back to 1871, New Zealand’s only castle boasts a commanding position atop the Otago Peninsula. Left to ruin, it was rescued by the Barker family in the late 1960s, and they’ve spent decades carefully restoring the Gothic Revivalist castle and attached buildings. Surrounded by a Garden of International Significance, it’s a must visit.

An Instagrammer’s dream. Named for the 1870s tunnel built to reach the small beach, there are stunning views of coastal Dunedin, with huge cliffs and a natural archway. The track has steep sections so some may struggle with the 2km return walk. You’ll also need to take care around the cliffs and with the tides. Tunnel Beach is not for swimming. University of Otago

Founded in 1871, the University of Otago is the oldest in New Zealand. Having moved to its North Dunedin location in 1879 after a few years in the Exchange, the University has been expanding since. It’s both the centre of learning and a hub for the 20,000 strong student population, who add a certain vibrancy to the city.

EXPLORE DUNEDIN | WWW.EXPLOREDUNEDIN.CO.NZ

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Baldwin Street

DUNEDIN’S GOT GAME

A Dunedin based programme is helping New Zealand take a slice of the global gaming industry.

(Photo: Gerard O’Brien/ODT)

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20 / INDUSTRY

CODE chief executive Tim Ponting. EXCELLENT results are being achieved by an economic growth initiative charged with nurturing game development in this country. Launched in 2019, the Dunedin based Centre of Digital Excellence (CODE) provides funding, creates pathways, and grows capability for the industry. The potential for New Zealand to be a real hub of the international video games business is untapped, CODE CEO Tim Ponting believes. “We have a very competent and collaborative industry here,” he says. “All the ingredients are there for rapid growth.” MELBOURNE International Games Week is looming for Ponting when we speak. He considers it to be the most important international games event hosted in the Southern Hemisphere. Held during early October, it encompasses events including the GCap networking conference, and

the huge PAX Aus expo. “That’s a huge consumer show, with over 80,000 games fans converging,” Ponting says. “For us, it’s really important; we got some good business out of attending last year, and some teams came away with deals as a result.” Gaming has seen massive growth over the last decade, now easily outstriping movies, music, and sports as the biggest entertainment industry. Globally, it generated an estimated revenue of US$347 billion in 2022. CODE is supporting a target of growing the New Zealand industry to sustainably generate over $1 billion in revenue each year. While that’s some distance off, revenue grew by almost 50% to $407 million between 2021 and 2022. NZ Game Developers Association Chairperson Chelsea Rapp believed it would be a billion dollar industry here by 2026.

WRITING about video games in the 1980s and 90s, Ponting was involved in launching various publications and websites on the topic in the United Kingdom. At the beginning of the noughties he was European PR Director for the huge Activision company, working with titles including Call of Duty and Guitar Hero. Having launched his own agency, he relocated to New Zealand and began helping to grow companies here. Ponting’s initial view on the New Zealand gaming industry was that it was particularly twotiered. “There was a small number of very successful companies,” he notes. “And then a huge gap, and a few quite successful very small companies. There weren’t many growing companies, so you were either already there, or you kind of had no chance of getting there.”

EXPLORE His other observation was that the New Zealand games development industry was very welcoming, diverse, and collaborative. In the Northern Hemisphere it’s none of those things. Both insights made it obvious to Ponting that there was huge room for growth in this country. CODE is perfectly poised to help developers take advantage of the emerging opportunities of the games industry. The initiative was first conceived by recently retired Dunedin North Labour MP David Clark, while in opposition a decade ago. Its pilot $10 million funding came from the Government’s Provincial Growth Fund in 2019. At first it was a regional economic development programme, but in the last year it’s become national. FUNDING is one of CODE’s three main pillars, and they’ve granted $3.24 million since inception. They also work with education partners to develop curriculum and industry-ready programmes. CODE’s work in this area spans intermediate

school level Game Dev Clubs, through to tertiary providers. Expanding capability is CODE’s third primary role, including organising seminars, masterclasses, and workshops They also organise targeted mentorship for developers who have been funded, and those endeavoring to. The organisation’s presence in Dunedin has had a marked impact on the gaming industry over its first years. Where there were just four studios in 2019, there are now 19, with over 90 new jobs created. While it’s surprised everyone how rapidly they’ve moved the needle, Ponting attributes it to the fearless creativity here. “There just happens to be this fantastic community of creatives that’s been attracted to this weird little city in the south of the South Island,” he says. “It’s a good place to make games, definitely.” An existing tech industry, excellent infrastructure including fast internet, and the presence of the University of Otago and Otago Polytechnic are also key.

CODE also aims to uplift groups typically underrepresented in the games industry. They’re helping move things towards a position of equity in areas including gender representation, and for Māori and Pacific people. As well as being based on principle, the commitment also has commercial value. “We are resolutely an economic development agency,” Ponting says. “Diverse teams work on projects that have really diverse audiences. They unlock a huge amount of value.” The approach is clearly working, with CODE returning a far higher return on taxpayer investment than initiatives in other countries. But, as Ponting says, there’s really nothing similar to CODE’s multitiered approach anywhere else. “Everything that we do is probably done somewhere else in the world,” he reflects. “But combining it all together in one place, which is what we’ve done, is unique.”

UNIQUE FINDS CONSCIOUS SHOPPING SOCIAL HUB

Vintage & retro specialists of quality pre-loved clothing

169 Princes St, Dunedin Monday to Friday 10 – 5 Saturday 10 – 4 Shop online

shoponcarroll.org.nz Shop on Carroll

Profits from our retail shop go towards Presbyterian Support Otago’s Family Works social services.

The Wall Street Mall on George Street.

Wal’s Plant Land in Mosgiel.

Dunedin’s retail zone stretches out in both directions from the Octagon. But don’t ignore the side streets, as there are quirky stores and fashion boutiques dotted everywhere - including upstairs, so be prepared to explore and make some exciting discoveries. • George St, Princes St, and Moray Place are at the heart of Dunedin’s shopping precinct, with all offering a diverse range of stores. Whether you’re after a souvenir or something fabulous to wear, you’re guaranteed to find something unique. • The Meridian Mall on George St offers around 50 distinctive specialty stores, encompassing fashion, lifestyle, and gifts, plus there’s a great international food court. • In the Mall, Moonshine Jewellery has a huge range of silver and stainless steel jewellery. They

There’s a world of shopping to be had around Dunedin’s streets and suburbs.

(Photos: DunedinNZ)

SHOPPING AROUND

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22 / SHOPPING

Two Squirrels Vintage in the central city. stock brands including Evolve, Kirstin Ash, and Cluse Watches. • In the same block there’s the Wall Street Mall, with boutique shopping, international brands, and some great food on offer. • On the opposite side of George St is Albion Lane, a very popular busking spot which leads through to Great King St and more great shopping. • The Dunedin Public Art Gallery in the Octagon features a well stocked gift shop alongside the exhibitions. It has reproductions, books, homewares, gifts, and items for the kids. • If you’re looking for apparel there are plenty of options. I Love Merino has amazing merino and possum blends that have superior washing and wear resistance, as well as linen and other textiles. • Next door you’ll find For Little Kiwis, a boutique store that

opened in September 2020. With clothing, shoes, books, toys, and accessories for newborns up to about seven, they focus on New Zealand made products. • Head north or south from the Octagon and you won’t be disappointed with the diversity of shopping on offer in Dunedin. • Smiths Sports Shoes have a great variety of shoes on offer. With knowledgeable staff and specialist advice, they’ll make sure you get the right pair. • Yaks ‘n’ Yetis has a unique range of giftware, apparel, and items for the home. From silver jewellery, bronze ornaments, and apparel with an ethnic twist, it’s an Aladdin’s Cave. • Further out of town in Mosgiel, Wals Plant Land has an amazing garden centre, cafe, as well as mini golf, a maze, and even a mini train.

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309 George St (just north of Meridian), Dunedin Ph (03) 477-1172 • Open 7 Days

Welcome to one of the most beautiful and unique destinations in New Zealand. Established in 1874 our lovely little local gem is counted among the oldest original pubs in the country. This picturesque Victorian stone building rests on the banks of Otago Harbour, an easy 15 minutes drive from Central Dunedin. Open daily for lunch & dinner, serving coffee, craft beers & Central Otago wines, we specialise in local seafood but provide something for everyone including a dedicated vegan menu. Rest by one of our three cozy open fires or soak up the sun and water views on the large terrace and courtyard. Don’t miss out on this special experience when exploring the delights of Dunedin.

17 Macandrew Rd, Carey’s Bay, Port Chalmers, Dunedin phone (03) 472 8022 | info@careysbayhotel.co.nz | www.careysbayhotel.co.nz Photo: Andy Thompson Photography NZ Ltd

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Bezett Jewellers Bowey's Pool Lounge Limited Carey's Bay Hotel Darkest Dunedin DCC Botanic Garden DCC Mosgiel Pool DCC St Clair Salt Water Pool Dunedin City Pharmacy Dunedin Designed Dunedin Ebike Hire Dunedin Public Art Gallery Dunedin Railways Ltd Fable Hotel For Little Kiwis Grand Casino Harbour Fish Limited Hard to Find Books I Love Merino JB HiFi inGOLF K & K Fashions Ltd Lan Yuan - Dunedin Chinese Garden Larnach Castle

320 George Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 81 Crawford Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 17 Macandrew Road, Carey's Bay, Port Chalmers www.darkestdunedin.co.nz Cnr Great King Street & Opoho Road, North Dunedin 215 Gordon Road, Mosgiel The Esplanade, St Clair, Dunedin 22 Princes Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 145 Stuart Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 10 Harrow Street 30 The Octagon, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 22 Anzac Avenue, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 310 Princes Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 3 The Octagon, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 118 High Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin Cnr Great King & St Andrew Streets, Dunedin 20 Dowling Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 7 The Octagon, Central Dunedin, Dunedin Meridian Mall 245 Cumberland Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 294 George Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin Cnr Cumberland & Rattray Streets 145 Camp Road, Dunedin

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Magic Moments Restaurant Meridian Mall Limited Moana Pool Moonshine Jewellery/Rings & Things Mornington Tavern Olveston Orokonui Ecosanctuary Port Chalmers Pharmacy Port Otago Ltd Relics Shop On Carroll Smith's Sports Shoes Speight's Stitch Witches The Craic Irish Tavern The Royal Albatross Centre Toitū Tūhura Otago Museum Vault 21 Wall Street Mall Wal's Plant Land Yaks n Yetis

53 Stuart Street, Dunedin 285 George Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 60 Littlebourne Road, Central Dunedin, Dunedin Ground Floor, Meridian Mall, 285 George Street, Dunedin 36 Mailer Street, Mornington, Dunedin 42 Royal Terrace, Dunedin 600 Blueskin Road, Dunedin 24 George Street, Port Chalmers, Dunedin 15 Beach Street, Port Chalmers, Dunedin 82-86 St Andrew Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 169 Princes Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 59 Great King Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 200 Rattray Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 193 Hanover Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 24 The Octagon, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 1259 Harrington Point Road, Harrington Point, Dunedin 31 Queens Gardens, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 419 Great King Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 21, The Octagon, Central Dunedin, Dunedin 211 George Street 109 Bush Road, Mosgiel 309 George Street, Central Dunedin, Dunedin

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CONDHAND BOOKSHOPS

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28 / PORT CHALMERS

Unmissable Port Chalmers Be sure to explore Port Chalmers during your Dunedin visit.

It may be your point of arrival, or a destination while you’re in town. Either way, a poke around quaint Port Chalmers is a must, offering a multitude of gems awaiting your discovery and enjoyment just 13km from Dunedin. The port-side settlement has a thriving arts community, so check out the local art galleries and design shops for something beautiful, while George Street also features pubs and cafes. Local history is celebrated at the excellent Port Chalmers Maritime Museum, housed inside the 1877 Post Office. The port was the departure point for New Zealand’s first frozen meat shipment, while Captain Robert Scott’s ill-fated Antarctic expedition also left from here. There’s a memorial to Scott high on the hill behind the town, while the Flagstaff Lookout offers brilliant views of Port Otago’s constant activity, as well as a restored time ball and the sculptures of Hotere Garden Oputae. And neighbouring Port Chalmers is idyllic Carey’s Bay, and the Carey’s Bay Historic Hotel that offers indoor and outdoor dining with views of the bay, home to the local fishing fleet.

PHOTO: DUNEDINNZ

A visit to specialist embroidery & quilting shop Stitch Witches is your opportunity to be inspired

TALES FROM DARKEST DUNEDIN VAN AND WALKING TOURS

Stitch Witches – Suzanne, Donna & Sue – are experienced embroiderers who provide top quality supplies to anyone who loves picking up a needle and thread. And because they’re stitchers too, you know they know what they’re talking about. If they don’t have what you want, just ask and they’ll do their best to get it for you!

Van tours: 10am to 3pm (subject to arrival and departure of your ship). Pick up and drop off at your ship's berth included. Heritage City Walking Tour: 11am and 2pm · 90 min Meet in Octagon under the clock tower.

193 Hanover Street, Dunedin P 03 473 7188

A tour with Darkest Dunedin is like no other. Gregor Campbell, respected historian and expert storyteller has been uncovering forgotten events and people in Dunedin’s history. Gregor’s true stories of murder, shipwrecks, discovery, heroes and villains are exclusive to Tales From Darkest Dunedin and weave together to give a greater picture of our city and the lives that brought it to where it is today.

Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm Sat 10am-4pm @stitchwitchesnz

View our extensive range at www.stitchwitches.co.nz

Book online at www.darkestdunedin.co.nz or through the i-Site at Port Chalmers or Dunedin

PORT CHALMERS WALKS 1. Boiler Point Walk Follow Macandrew Rd towards Carey’s Bay, and through carpark by Rowing Club. 2. Carey’s Bay via Lady Thorn Dell and Cemetery Up Church St to Dell, continue up to cemetery, and further to Carey’s Bay. 3. Flagstaff and sculpture garden Walk up Grey St, turn left at Scotia St, then to Aurora Tce. 4. Flagstaff down to Back Beach A steep descent from Flagstaff, then zigzag to Peninsula Rd, and Yacht Club. 5. Back Beach Start from Yacht Club, follow gravel track on reclamation edge to picnic table - and fishing. 6. Full Harbourside Walk Wickliffe Tce, follow around to Victory Pl, then Peninsula Beach Rd, follow back around to Port Otago. 7. Skyline Walk Native bush track from Scott Memorial, to a seat with skyline views.

Port Chalmers

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30 / OUTSIDE THE CBD

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Dunedin offers plenty beyond the central city. look around the suburbs and you’ll find some hidden gems.

EXPLORING FURTHER . . . If you’re feeling energetic, Baldwin Street - the world’s steepest awaits. Recover with an ice cream and a wander around beautiful Chingford Park. The hill suburbs tell the story of Dunedin’s heritage, with glorious villas, well-maintained bungalows, and quaint working men’s cottages. Maori Hill, Roslyn, Belleknowes, and Mornington flow into each other, with cafes and shops dotted along the ridgeline above the city’s town belt.

Cable cars were once the best mode of transport to reach these elevated suburbs. Take in the view over the central city and harbour from Roslyn Bridge. Look south and you’ll find South Dunedin and St Clair. The heavily populated south of the city is a totally different thing to the CBD. St Clair and St Kilda beaches are a magnet for sun lovers, swimmers, surfers, and everyone who likes food. Perfect for morning coffee, a long lunch, or casual evening

dining, and you can walk it all off along the beach. Or head south to Brighton, a great place for a family day out with a picnic, fish’n’chips, or an ice cream at the beach. Also south are the temperate climes of Mosgiel, a growing satellite town with a population of around 15,000, and its own unique charm. No matter which direction you head in, there’s always something new to do in Dunedin.

Mosgiel has a brand new swimming pool complex! With a range of pools to choose from you’ll be spoilt for choice. Head to Te Puna o Whakaehu this summer. Open Daily Monday – Friday 6am – 8pm Saturday, Sunday 7am – 7pm 03 471 9780 215 Gordon Road Mosgiel www.dunedin.govt.nz/tepunaowhakaehu

• Golfing hardware & accessories • Indoor driving range with launch monitor • New Zealand golf accessories & souvenirs • Customer carparking • 5 mins walk from Octagon

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32 / CYCLING

Either around the harbour, or on the hills, Dunedin offers some superb cycling options.

O N YO U R B I K E Signal Hill is a great mountain biking location for all abilities. (Photo: DunedinNZ)

August 2023 saw the opening of the final stage of the Otago Harbour cycle loop - Te Aka Ōtākou. The approximately $50 million project is a 10km long cycleway linking Dunedin to Port Chalmers. The most recently completed section was the final 5.2km from St Leonards to Port, which took three years and around 365,000 work hours. It was a challenging project, contending with the busy State Highway 88, the main trunk railway, and the reclamation of land from the harbour. The section through St Leonard’s has a 970 metre-long retaining wall bringing the paved and well-lit path to the same height as the highway. There’s also a 600m long boardwalk

carrying the path around the edge of Blanket Bay. Te Ara Moana is the counterpart to Te Awa Ōtākou, the Otago Peninsula side of the shared pathway, completing Te Aka Ōtākou - the entire pathway from Portobello to Port Chalmers. The community was gifted these lovely names by Tahu Pōtiki (Kāi Tahu rakatira) in 2019, not long before he passed away, and they acknowledge him as the harbour path nears completion. Te Ara is “the Path”; Te Aka, “the Vine” or “winding pathway” that clings to Otago Harbour and Te Awa is “the River”. Te Ara Moana is the perfect name for a pathway that winds its way to the Ocean. Now complete, Te Aka Ōtākou allows

cyclists to ‘Cycle the Loop’ from Port Chalmers to Portobello (and beyond). This is approximately 32km, so allow at least two hours. To complete the loop, make a ferry crossing on skipper Rachel McGregor’s Port to Port service. Dunedin has also become a mountain biking mecca, with many kilometres of custom designed track to be found on the hills surrounding the city. These include the awesome Signal Hill Reserve, with a world class network of trails for beginner, intermediate, advanced, and expert riders. The Big Easy offers a fairly relaxed route uphill, while the more recent Easy Down is a great downhill beginner track. Mountain Biking Otago has also developed excellent tracks at Wakari

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33 / CYCLING

Te Aka Ōtākou allows cyclists to do a harbour loop. (Photo: DunedinNZ)

Skipper Rachel McGregor’s Port to Port ferry. (Photo: Geoff Marks)

Cycling at St Clair Beach at sunrise. (Photo: Geoff Marks)

Experience Ōtepoti Dunedin Discover Dunedin's stunning wildlife and breathtaking views while biking.

Your adventure starts here

Bar Snacks Open til Close Dining menu, 5pm Thursday, Friday & Saturday Scan to book online today Open every day 7am - 8pm 10 Harrow Street, Dunedin dunedinebike.co.nz

Open 7 Days Monday - Thursday 5pm -(9pm-10pm) Friday 4pm - (10pm-1am) Saturday 2pm - (10pm-1am) Sunday 2pm - (6pm-8am)

81 Crawford Street, Central Dunedin

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34 / WILDLIFE

IN TO T HE WILD

Up close to nature at the Orokonui Ecosanctuary. (Photo: DunedinNZ)

With an amazing variety of habitats and landscapes, Dunedin’s natural environment makes it the wildlife capital of New Zealand.

The coastline and peninsula are a seabird spotters’ paradise. Albatross, penguins, shags, spoonbills, oystercatchers, giant petrels, and sooty shearwaters all make their home here. Sightings of orca and dolphins are common in the harbour, and there have been occasional visits from the Southern Right Whale, which was once on the brink of extinction. Fur seals are in abundance around the rocky coastal outcrops, and one of the world’s rarest sea lions - Hooker’s - can be seen sunbathing on many of the sandy beaches surrounding the city. They are protective of their patch though, so make sure to stay at least EXPLORE DUNEDIN | WWW.EXPLOREDUNEDIN.CO.NZ

20 metres away. Dunedin is home to the only mainland breeding colony of albatross anywhere in the world. The Northern Royal Albatross/Toroa can be seen at the Royal Albatross Centre at the end of Otago Peninsula. You can take a guided tour to watch the antics of these majestic seabirds in their natural environment. Everyone falls in love with the Yelloweyed Penguin/Hoiho, and the world’s smallest penguin, the Little Blue Penguin/Kororā. Sightings of these penguins are usually at dusk when they scurry back from the sea to their nests. The best safe viewing of Hoiho

The Royal Albatross Centre at Taiaroa Head.

(Photo: DunedinNZ)

is at Sandfly Bay or on a Penguin Place tour, while Kororā can be viewed from a platform just below the Royal Albatross Centre. Both are endangered species and must be given space. On the hills above the other side of Otago Harbour is the predator-free Orokonui Ecosanctuary. This is home to some of the world’s most fascinating and rare forest birds, reptiles, and plants. You can wander through the native forest with or without a guide, and may see takahē, tuatara, Otago skinks, kaka, bellbirds, and tui. If you really want to get up close and personal with New Zealand’s native birds, this is the place to be.

OTAGO PENINSULA

IS THE PERFECT DAYTRIP Otago Peninsula was once described as ‘‘the finest example of eco-tourism in the world’’ by the late botanist David Bellamy. spots for a picnic. Eventually you’ll reach the wildlife splendor of Taiaroa Head, home to the Royal Albatross Centre, and Fort Taiaroa and its amazing Armstrong disappearing gun. Highcliff Road offers a commanding view, and will lead you to New Zealand’s only castle. Larnach Castle has been one family’s restoration project for over 50 years now, and is full of colonial antiques and surrounded by a Garden of International Significance. There are numerous ways to access the stunning Otago Peninsula, including hiring a car, using the superb cycleways, or taking one of the many tours on offer.

ROYAL ALBATROSS CENTRE

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World famous for its wildlife reserves, the 20km long peninsula features the only mainland Northern Royal Albatross colony on the planet. It’s also home to the world’s rarest penguin, the yellow-eyed penguin, as well as populations of the New Zealand sea lion, New Zealand fur seals, and little blue penguins. Whether you take the low road or the high road on the Peninsula, there’s always plenty to discover. Portobello Road follows the foreshore through harbourside communities passing through picturesque Macandrew Bay and Portobello - both perfect

03 478 0499 Otago Peninsula www.albatross.org.nz DUNEDIN

The harbour side of Otago Peninsula is calm. (Photo: DunedinNZ)

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Larnach Castle is a highlight of any Dunedin visit. (Photo: DunedinNZ)

35 / WILDLIFE

With a style of its own, Dunedin is home to iD Dunedin Fashion, the Fashion Design School, and many local designers.

(Photo: DunedinNZ)

ALL DRESSED UP

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36 / FASHION

The iD Dunedin Fashion event showcases local design. Having celebrated its 23rd year in 2023, iD Fashion Dunedin has put the city on the international fashion map. The huge showcase is usually held in April, with an edgy blend of high profile designers from New Zealand and abroad and innovative emerging fashion from around the globe. In 2023 it returned to the platform at the Dunedin Railway Station, a stunning heritage venue beloved by iD fans for many years.

The event is the biggest in the Dunedin fashion calendar, but at any time of the year the city can be a mecca for the apparel obsessed. A raft of local designers have grown out of the unique culture on offer, some taking their designs to the world. While Margi Robertson’s NOM*d showed on the runways of London Fashion Week in 1999, others including Company of Strangers, Charmaine Reveley, Mild Red, and Carlson have also thrived here.

While now Auckland-based, designer Tanya Carlson is the head judge of the iD International Emerging Designer Awards. The event attracts entries from around the world — including many from graduates of Otago Polytechnic’s Fashion Design School. Offering numerous qualifications in fashion design, the school is a very important facet of Dunedin’s vibrant fashion landscape.

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37 / FASHION

GUILD features products made by local creatives.

DESIGNED IN DUNEDIN Craig Scott is the Chairperson of Dunedin Designed Inc and owner of the Self Destruct Studio label. Explain Guild and Dunedin Designed, and how it began? GUILD is a project of Dunedin Designed Inc, which is a not-for-profit society created in 2014 to promote and foster Dunedin design. The GUILD store was established in Moray Place by a group of local designers looking for a retail space they could collectively run to make the financial cost viable. In 2019 we moved to our current location at 145 Stuart Street and have been going from strength to strength. The store features fashion, jewellery, homewares, art, fragrances and more, all made by local creatives. How exciting is it working with local designers? We have 12 permanent designers in store who staff the shop, and everyone brings their own creative flair and unique design viewpoint. One of my favourite things is working with students and graduates to feature them in store. We are about to launch our second pop up collaboration with year 2 Product Design Students from Te

Pūkenga Otago Polytechnic, where they have developed product ranges to be featured and sold in the store. What do you like most about Dunedin? I find the size of Dunedin makes it much easier for local creatives to collaborate and make things happen. There is such a wealth of talent in this city and so many people doing great things. There's definitely a DIY ethos where you can do something amazing with limited resources rather than just being handed something on a platter. I think it's really important to have that grounding, so when bigger opportunities do come along, the output can be so much greater. Where are your favourite places to go and things to do here? When I'm not creating work of my own, you'll find me at my 9-5 at Tūhura Otago Museum as the Head of Exhibitions and Creative Services, so a visit to the Museum, Science Centre and Planetarium are a must! Especially a visit to the virtual reality exhibition Terminus by Jess Johnson and Simon

Ward, which is on until the end of February. I'm also on the Hoe Ākau steering committee of Dunedin Dream Brokerage who enable a great range of local artists to activate vacant retail spaces with community projects. When I do have a moment, you'll probably find me at Relics adding something to my vinyl collection! One thing you'd suggest a visitor to the city must do? Visit GUILD of course! The special thing about GUILD is that our model is very different to traditional retail. Each designer rents a space, and volunteers a shift in store, so every time you visit you get to meet a local creative featured in the store. A lot of our designers make bespoke pieces, so if something catches your eye it is very limited or one-off, so you are never going to run into someone else with the exact same thing, and the majority of the sale goes directly back to the maker. GUILD by Dunedin Designed INC www.GuildDunedin.co.nz

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38 / LITERATURE

BIG WORDS

(Photo: DunedinNZ)

There are 42 UNESCO Cities of Literature around the world - and Dunedin is one of them. The honour was bestowed on the city in December 2014 after a concerted effort by a local steering committee. However, the recognition was well-deserved as Dunedin has been home to many famous New Zealand writers, poets, playwrights, and publishers. Many of them are represented on the Dunedin Writers’ Walk that spans the upper half of the Octagon. Installed in 1993, it includes plaques to 25 of those who have contributed to the city’s literary scene. Among them are A.H. Reed, a prolific writer and founder of the A.H. and A.W. Reed publishing house in Dunedin. The imprint published many important New Zealand non-fiction titles. Many of Reed’s own books were about his travels on foot, including an epic trek the length of New Zealand - when he was 85! Hone Tuwhare was a Kaikohe born poet who held the Robert Burns Fellowship at the

University of Otago in both 1969 and 1974. He lived for many years at Kaka Point in The Catlins, south of Dunedin, and the Hone Tuwhare Charitable Trust celebrates his contribution to the arts. While Janet Frame was born in Oamaru, the writer lived in Dunedin for much of her life. Frame’s debut novel Owls Do Cry was published in 1957, and it has been called New Zealand’s first great novel. Her later volumes of autobiography included An Angel at my Table - also the title of a 1990 biopic. Another plaque recognises Charles Brasch, a poet and editor who launched the Landfall publication in 1947. New Zealand’s premier literary journal, it is still published annually by the Otago University Press. Dunedin hosts the biannual Dunedin Writers and Readers Festival, and the annual New Zealand Young Writers Festival.

Dunedin’s literary obsession obvious in the Octagon.

A warm and friendly welcome awaits you at The Craic Irish Tavern in the heart of the Octagon. Sit by the open fire and enjoy a beer from our large local and international selection — including Guinness, Kilkenny, Emerson's and Speight’s. Sit out in the Octagon with a glass of Central Otago wine or barista-made coffee. Have a leisurely lunch from our extensive all-day menu. Try our seafood chowder, Blue Cod beer-battered fish and chips, green lipped mussel bowl or slow-cooked lamb shanks — our menu offers something for everyone.

24 The Octagon | 03 479 0781

www.thecraic.co.nz

OPEN 7 DAYS (Closed Christmas Day) 9am-late 7 Days

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39 / CULTURE

ART ATTACK Besides words, art and music are also important threads in Dunedin’s cultural tapestry.

The Dunedin Public Art Gallery has a large collection. (Photo: DunedinNZ)

Music is an important thread in Dunedin’s culture. (Photo: DunedinNZ)

Another New Zealand first for the city was the opening of a Public Art Gallery in 1884 - the first in the country. It was founded by William Hodgkins, whose daughter Frances went on to become one of New Zealand’s most renowned artists on the international stage. Unsurprisingly, the Dunedin Public Art Gallery in the Octagon holds a substantial collection of her work. There is also a large collection of Old Masters, with work from Monet, Lowry, Turner, Constable, and many others. Many important New Zealand artists are represented, including those who spent time in Dunedin - Colin McCahon, Ralph Hotere, Robin White, Shane Cotton, Grahame Sydney and others. The Art Gallery has an extensive programme of exhibitions both contemporary and from the collection.

There are also numerous dealer galleries around the streets of Dunedin, representing all tiers of New Zealand artists. Music has long held an important place in the city, with the words to the national anthem God Defend New Zealand written here in the 1870s. The Dunedin Symphony Orchestra has been performing regularly since 1965, and the Mozart Fellowship and the School of Performing Arts at the University figure in the musical landscape. Contemporary music has also been an important stream. Acts from the 1970s including Lutha, Craig Scott, and Mother Goose paved the way. But the ‘Dunedin Sound’ of the 1980s and 90s gained international acclaim that continues, with bands like The Chills, Straitjacket Fits, The Clean, and the 3Ds touring the world.

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40 / BEACHES

SUN AND SAND St Clair and St Kilda An easy journey from the centre of town, St Clair and St Kilda face the Pacific Ocean. But they’re both favoured swimming spots, with surf patrols during the warmer months. It’s also a mecca for surfers, with one of the most consistent breaks in New Zealand. Brighton Perfect for a relaxed day trip is Brighton Beach, set by a charming seaside village 20km from Dunedin. The surf lifesaver patrolled beach may be small, but there’s plenty of space for the kids to run around, and the creek is great for smaller swimmers and paddlers. Warrington Here you’ll find another gorgeous sandy beach with its own surf life saving club over summer. A relatively

safe and sheltered spot, the beach offers great conditions for swimmers and beginner surfers. There’s a playground and picnic area at the Warrington Domain. Long Beach A 2.4km stretch of soft white sand and fairly calm surf half-an-hour from Dunedin - what’s not to like? Long Beach is an absolute gem, with plenty of space for a picnic, and good swimming even though there are no life savers on patrol. Macandrew Bay On the harbour side of Otago Peninsula, Macandrew Bay has all you need for a perfect family outing. The small beach is the safest around, shallow and sheltered. It’s a 15-minute drive from the centre of Dunedin, and there’s a shared cycle path the whole way.

MER SUM N FU

SUMMER SWIMMING MOANA POOL has a range of swimming areas, a multitude of fitness facilities, lots of training courses and heaps of entertainment for children. MOANA GYM comes complete with qualified gym instructors to ensure you exercise safely and enjoy your workout. The only gym in Dunedin where you can have a swim after a workout. Open daily. Admission charges apply. Check website for specific pool hours and locations. 60 LITTLEBOURNE ROAD | DUNEDIN PH 03 477 4000 | WWW.DUNEDIN.GOVT.NZ

A DEPARTMENT OF THE DUNEDIN CITY COUNCIL

Surrounded by dramatic coastlines, Dunedin has many wild beaches. But there’s also family friendly options for relatively safe swimming.

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41 / KIDS

There’s family fun to be had around every corner in Dunedin.

PLAY TIME Marlow Park Known as the Dinosaur Park thanks to its iconic slide, this St Kilda beachside playground has been loved by generations of kids. Memorial Park A huge playground in Mosgiel with something for everyone. A triple slide fortress, a skate park, great climbing, and a secure space for the very little ones.

FUN AND GAMES

Memorial Park playground in Mosgiel. (Photo: DunedinNZ) You’ll find plenty of playgrounds, pools, parks, beaches, and other outdoor spaces where excess energy can be burnt. There are also many indoor attractions, including Tūhura Otago Museum. The kids will love Animal Attic, a treasure trove of over 2000 taxidermied creatures of all descriptions. And the Museum’s Tūhura Otago Community Trust Science Centre is the biggest of its kind in New Zealand, with a Tropical Forest,

the Beautiful Science Gallery, and Perpetual Guardian Planetarium. Toitū Otago Settlers Museum is another must-visit, telling the story of the people of Dunedin and the surrounding area. There are 14 galleries, with many interactive displays. After exploring the cultural centres of the city, and enjoying the local cafes and restaurants, it's time for some outdoor time at one of Dunedin’s playgrounds.

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Botanic Gardens A smallish, safe playground for all ages, with much more besides. There’s open space for picnics and running around, ducks to be fed, the Winter Garden to marvel at. Bayfield Park Besides the Andersons Bay Inlet this is the perfect sunny day picnic spot. The kids can enjoy slides, swings, seesaws, a spiderweb net, tunnels, and the rocktopus. Market Reserve Set well back from Princes St, you’ll find swings, a fort, see-saws, a jungle-gym, andDunedin’s first balance park. There are also benches for a quiet picnic lunch.

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CARIBBEAN FIRE AND FURY

Michael Holding kicks over the stumps at Carisbrook.

The West Indies’ 1980 Dunedin test is remembered as one of the most controversial episodes in the history of cricket. Dunedin’s climate, Richard Hadlee’s nagging line and length, and their own frustration undid the favoured West Indians in early 1980. It was a formidable side who crossed the Tasman that February. With a brutal four-pronged pace attack and batsmen for days, they’d won the 1979 World Cup and World Series Cup, and beaten the Aussies in a test series. But with the Master Blaster Viv Richards not playing in New Zealand, and the rest of the team tired and jaded, they struggled in the cooler conditions. “It all played into our hands perfectly,” New Zealand bowler Gary Troup said. “They were complaining about the cold and just wanted to get out of there.” The bitter three test series began in Dunedin, two days after New

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Zealand had unexpectedly won the single one day match in Christchurch. Carisbrook’s low and slow pitch proved problematic for the West Indies, which Hadlee exploited taking five wickets for 34 runs. The visitors expressed growing frustration as decisions went against them. This would be expressed in dramatic fashion both in Dunedin, and later in the Christchurch test when Colin Croft barged umpire Fred Goodall. “It wasn’t happening the way they wanted so they became a bunch of spoiled brats,” New Zealand batsman Bruce Edgar remembered. In Dunedin the West Indies’ aggravation resulted in one of the greatest sports photos ever taken. When umpire John Hastie turned down Michael Holding’s caught

behind appeal, the paceman nicknamed Whispering Death continued down the pitch and kicked over the stumps. “When (John) Parker hit the ball you could have heard it in the Octagon,” photographer Owen Jones said. “I couldn’t understand why he was given not out. Holding started down the pitch with huge strides, and he suddenly sped up and bang!” New Zealand limped to victory in the first test, thanks to a last wicket stand by Troup and Stephen Boock. Brimming with acrimony, the two subsequent tests were drawn, giving New Zealand a famous, though perhaps sour tasting series win. “The biggest disappointment is that the controversy maintains a profile over an outstanding achievement,” Troup noted.

(Photo: Allsport UK/Allsport/Getty Images)

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42 / SPORTS

GOOD SPORTS

Sport is a vital part of the cultural tapestry of Dunedin, and the city has been home to many great sportspeople - and moments.

The 2023 Bledisloe Cup match at Forsyth Barr Stadium. (Photo: DunedinNZ)

The history of the city is interwoven with sport, and Dunedin has always punched above its weight in that arena. As far back as 1864 an English cricket team played in Dunedin, as part of a festival that also saw New Zealand’s inaugural first class cricket match. Unsurprisingly, that was an Otago vs Canterbury clash - a fixture that has become one of this country’s most bitter sporting rivalries. Then in 1905, the All Blacks met Australia for the first time on home soil at Dunedin’s Tahuna Park. Rugby had long had a strong foothold in the region, with the Otago Rugby Football Union being founded in 1881. Several Dunedin clubs have histories stretching back 150 years, and provincial and Super rugby have always been well supported. The Highlanders’ 2015 Super Rugby triumph is still fresh in the memory. Although the now defunct Carisbrook stadium was a rugby and cricket venue, just over a century ago New

Zealand played its first football international there. More recently, the roofed Forsyth Barr Stadium hosted six FIFA Women’s World Cup matches. Netball and basketball are also huge in Dunedin. The Southern Steel play some home games at the Edgar Centre, while the Otago Nuggets won the 2022 NZ NBL competition. Olympic gold medallists including long jumper Yvette Williams, swimmer Danyon Loader, rower Hamish Bond, and runner Jack Lovelock have called Dunedin home. New Zealand’s first golf course was in the suburb of Mornington, and the courses around Dunedin offer something to players of all abilities. Golfers including Seve Ballesteros, Arnold Palmer, Gary Player, and Sir Bob Charles have graced their fairways. Cycling is an increasingly popular pastime in Dunedin. As well as gentle cycle trails including the Harbour circuit, there’s a network of excellent mountain bike tracks around the hills.

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44 / WALKS

From the urban to the wild, Dunedin has walks to suit all ages, abilities, and interests.

WALK THIS WAY You’ll find great walks in every direction, from the middle of the city, to the town belt, and around the hills and beaches. In the Octagon you can start with a short stroll around the plaques commemorating Dunedin’s literary and Olympics achievements. Then take in a longer walk around some of the city’s historical and architectural highlights, or perhaps even the Street Art Trail (see sidebar). The Dunedin Town Belt has been preserved since the early days of European settlement, and offers plenty of recreational possibilities. You can explore from any point, or attempt to traverse its entirety from the Oval to the Dunedin Botanic Gardens. Ross Creek, off Burma Road, is a short and picturesque wander that weaves through native bush and exotic forest around one of New Zealand’s oldest reservoirs. The family-friendly loop is popular with walkers, joggers, and the local birdlife.

The Pineapple Track leads to the top of Flagstaff, which has stunning views over the city and the Taieri Plain when the weather allows. From Booth Road you’ll get a real workout on the climb, or you can begin on Whare Flat Road, for a short and steep hike. You can drive to the top of Mount Cargill for superb 360-degree views. But if you are feeling more adventurous, you can follow the relatively easy tracks through the bush from Bethune’s Gully. A detour to the basalt columns of the Organ Pipes is compulsory. The Sandymount Track on Otago Peninsula offers great views of Hoopers Inlet and Allans Beach. The hour-long walk has ups and downs through farmland, to a series of viewpoints. Victory Beach is one of the more deserted beaches on the peninsula - apart from the abundant wildlife. Allow a couple of hours, as there’s a trek across farmland and the Okia Reserve - taking in the distinctively shaped Pyramids en route.

The Organ Pipes on Mt Cargill. (Photo: Roady)

L O V E

F O R

T H E

S T R E E T S

Inner-city Dunedin has become a canvas for world class street art. Explore all of its colour and vibrancy on the Dunedin Street Art Trail. You’ll find the creations of both local and international artists exploding across the facades of many buildings in an eye-popping display of colour and texture. To begin your Dunedin Street Art Trail walk, use the online map at dunedinstreetart.co.nz There are well over 30 works around the inner-city, and even more to be seen out around the suburbs. The majority of the works on the Dunedin Street Art Trail are on the southern side of the city centre, with many to be seen around the Warehouse Precinct - a rejuvenated area where developers committed to preserving heritage buildings have also sponsored this creativity. Dunedin street art by Kell Sunshine. (Photo: DunedinNZ)

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GARDENS OF DUNEDIN Paradise for outdoor lovers, Dunedin has an abundance of green spaces including the much loved Town Belt that skirts the inner city.

(Photo: DunedinNZ)

There are the Gardens of International Significance at Larnach Castle and the Dunedin Botanic Gardens, and many other glorious spaces to visit. Part of the Town Belt, the Botanic Gardens stretch up the hill and include formal areas, rock gardens, and wilder tracks through various plant collections. And you can feed the ducks! The idyllic Woodhaugh Gardens are perfect for a family picnic. A 15-minute walk from the city centre, and has a paddling pool and playground with swings, slides, and a flying fox. Opened in 2008, Lan Yan Dunedin Chinese Garden is in the middle of the city. The only garden of its type in the Southern Hemisphere, it celebrates the Chinese influence in Otago. The Dunedin Botanic Gardens is a Garden of International Significance. The historic Glenfalloch

DUNEDIN BOTANIC GARDEN A Six Star Garden

The Dunedin Botanic Garden has 30 tranquil hectares where you can hear native birdsong while you explore the plant collections or soak up the expansive views. Open every day from dawn until dusk. Free entry. For information, call 03 477 4000. Corner of Great King Street and Opoho Road. www.dunedinbotanicgarden.co.nz A DEPARTMENT OF THE DUNEDIN CITY COUNCIL

Garden on Otago Peninsula was started in 1871. There’s a 100-year-old Matai, rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias, native ferns, exotic imports, and more. Larnach Castle is another must visit while on the Peninsula. A labour of love for the Barker family for over half a century, the castle and large gardens are stunning. In Port Chalmers you’ll find the Lady Thorn Rhododendron Dell, an old quarry developed into a lush landscape featuring rhododendrons, magnolias, maples, flowering bulbs, with panoramic views over the harbour. Orokonui Ecosanctuary is a 307ha forest surrounded by a pest exclusion fence. With tracks for all abilities, visitors can see up close flora and fauna not easily accessible elsewhere.

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45 / GARDENS

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46 / FOOD

(Photo: DunedinNZ)

(Photo: Speight’s Ale House Dunedin)

For a small city, Dunedin has a feast of eating places to choose from, whether you’re after a light lunch, a snack, or a big breakfast.

Speight’s Ale House has something for everyone.

The Octagon offers an array of eating and drinking options.

Dunedin is a paradise for foodies, as it remains a hub for the vast array of food producers in the Otago region. That’s perhaps best represented at the Otago Farmers Market in the carpark next to the Railway Station each Saturday morning. The Market offers sensory overload, and the opportunity to buy direct from the producers. There’s also freshly prepared food and coffee on offer. In the Octagon, Vault 21 has forged a reputation as one of Dunedin’s premier dining experiences. The exciting menu of Asian fusion fare includes small plates for sharing as well as mains and grill options. The Craic Irish Tavern has warm and friendly service, with a great selection of beverages, and an extensive brunch, lunch, and dinner menu. South of the Octagon you’ll find the Grand Bar and Restaurant at the Grand Casino where you can enjoy a feast of contemporary New Zealand cuisine. They offer a classic a la carte menu and a well-stocked bar in chic surroundings, and with superb service. In the same neck of the woods is The Press Club, at Fable Hotel. The bar and restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a sophisticated menu. There’s

also High Tea, and a great range of beverages including excellent cocktails. Over 20 years since they opened, the Speight’s Ale House Dunedin Bar and Restaurant is still ‘‘generous to a fault’’. Their menu has something for every taste, and there's a superb range of Speight’s on offer of course. Further afield, the Carey’s Bay Historic Hotel, right next to a fishing port one bay around from Port Chalmers. There’s an excellent menu with both seafood and other mains, and a welcoming atmosphere. There’s also some quality drinking to be had in the city, with excellent bars and many boutique beer and spirit producers.

Vault 21 is a contemporary Asian fusion experience.

Moonshine, Ground Floor, Meridian Mall, Dunedin

(Photo: DunedinNZ)

DINING OUT

IN GOOD SPIRITS With the rise of boutique distilling over the last decade, a number of quality establishments have emerged in Dunedin and surrounds.

Sandymount Distillery The small batch, artisanal Sandymount opened a new distillery and tasting room on the Otago Peninsula in late 2022. Their award-winning gin and vodka is also available at local outlets. Dunedin Craft Distillers Producing botanical spirits from surplus baking products, this Otago Farmers’ Market mainstay makes the Dunedin Dry and The Bay gins, and a delicious Cacao Vodka. No8 Distillery On Hanover St in central Dunedin, Julien Delavoie creates medal winning gins with an historic still. Their range includes the Horopito, Dunners Dry, and Hibiscus gins. Saddle Hill Brewery and Distillery As well as craft beer, Saddle Hill produces several distinctive gins, including Clementine, 562 Miles of Cranberry, and Watermelon and Mint.

The New Zealand Whisky Collection is available at Speight’s in Dunedin.

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New Zealand Whisky Collection Although the NZ Whisky Company is based in Oamaru, these superb whiskies were originally distilled in Dunedin. They’re available at the Speight’s gift shop on Rattray St.

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47 / DRINKS

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BOOK YOUR DUNEDIN MOTEL DIRECTLY

Allan Court 590 George St / 03 477 7526 stay@allancourt.co.nz www.allancourt.co.n

Cable Court Motel 833 Cumberland St Nth / 03 477 3525 cablecourt@ilt.co.nz www.cablecourt.co.nz

NORTH DUNEDIN

Amross 660 George St / 03 471 8924 amrossmotel@callplus.net.nz www.amrossmotel.co.nz

Commodore Motel 932 Cumberland St Nth / 03 477 7766 info@commodoremotel.co.nz www.commodoremotel.co.nz

315 Euro 315-319 George St / 03 477 9929 stay@eurodunedin.co.nz www.eurodunedin.co.nz

Aria on Bank 42-46 Bank Street / 03 473 1188 stay@ariaonbank.co.nz www.ariaonbank.co.nz

Cumberland Motel 821 Cumberland St Nth / 03 477 1321 cumberland.motel@xtra.co.nz www.cumberlandmotel.co.n

Aurora on George 678 George St / 03 477 7984 stay@auroradunedin.co.nz www.auroradunedin.co.nz

Dunedin Motel + Villas 624 George St / 03 477 7692 staydunedin@xtra.co.nz www.dunedinmotels.co.nz

Beechwood 842 George St / 03 477 4272 info@beechwood.co.nz www.motel-accommodation-dunedin.co.nz

George Street Motel Apartments 575 George St / 03 477 9333 info@georgestreetmotel.co.nz www.georgestreetmotel.co.nz

Bella Vista Dunedin 704 Great King St / 03 477 2232 reservations@bellavistadunedin.co.nz www.bellavista.co.nz

Garden Motel 958 George St / 03 477 8251 info@gardenmotel.co.nz www.gardenmotel.co.nz

BLUESTONE ON GEORGE Enjoy the relaxing ambience of this modern boutique accommodation. Tastefully-decorated rooms, all with balconies or patios. Guest lounge serving a light menu, and plentiful outdoor seating as well as a manicured garden. Walk to many fabulous local dining options, cafes, bars, the main shopping area and the city’s attractions. 571 George St / 03 477 9201 stay@bluestonedunedin.co.nz www.bluestonedunedin.co.nz

Highland House 1003 George St / 03 477 2665 dunedinbookings@gmail.com

538 Great King Motel 538 Great King St / 03 477 7983 info@greatkingmotel.co.nz www.greatkingmotel.co.n 755 Regal Court 755 George St / 03 477 7729 stay@755regalcourtmotel.co.nz www.755regalcourtmotel.co.nz 858 George St 858 George St / 03 4740047 reservations@858georgestreetmotel.co.nz www.858georgestreetmotel.co.nz Alcala Motor Lodge Cnr George & St David / 03 477 9073 alcala-motel@xtra.co.nz www.alcalamotorlodge.co.nz Alexis Motor Lodge 475 George St / 03 471 7268 stay@alexis.co.n www.alexis.co.nz Alhambra Oaks 588 Great King St / 03 477 7735 info@alhambraoaks.co.nz www.alhambraoaks.co.nz

Leith Valley Holiday Park & Motel 103 Malvern St / 03 467 9936 stay@leithvalleyhp.co.nz www.leithvalleytouringpark.co.nz

EXPLORE Owens Motel 745 George St / 03 477 7156 owensmotel@xtra.co.nz www.owensmotel.nz

Motel on Carroll 10 Carroll St / 027 217 9019 brian@moteloncarroll.co.nz www.moteloncarroll.co.nz

Sahara Motels 619 George St / 03 477 6662 info@dunedin-accommodation.co.nz www.dunedin-accommodation.co.nz

Motel on York 47 York Place / 03 477 6120 info@motelonyork.co.nz www.motelonyork.co.nz

Woodlands Motels and Apartments 594 Great King St / 03 477 0270 woodlandsvillage@xtra.co.nz www.motel594.co.nz

Roslyn Apartments 23 City Rd, Roslyn / 03 477 6777 roslynapartments@xtra.co.nz www.roslynapartments.co.nz

CENTRAL DUNEDIN

SOUTH DUNEDIN, ST CLAIR

97 Motel Moray 97 Moray Place / 03 477 2050 info@97motel.co.nz www.97motel.co.nz

555 Dunedin 555 Anderson Bay Road / 03 455 5779 stay@bwdunedin.co.nz Adrian Motels 101 Queens Drive / 03 455 2009 adrianmotel@xtra.co.nz www.adrianmotel.co.nz Bayfield Motel and Apartments 210 Musselburgh Rise / 03 455 0756 info@bayfieldmotel.co.nz www.bayfieldmotel.co.nz

DUNEDIN PALMS MOTEL Fantastic inner city location, just a 5-minute walk from the centre of Dunedin. Walking distance to bars, cafès, restaurants and shopping. A stone’s throw from Dunedin’s warehouse precinct featuring boutique bars, cafés, and entertainment. Studios, spa bath units, one-bedroom units, an executive one-bedroom spa pool unit, and two-bedroom family units available. 185 High Street / 03 477 8293 stay@dunedinpalmsmotel.co.nz www.dunedinpalmsmotel.co.nz Law Courts Hotel Cnr Cumberland & Stuart Sts 03 477 8036 admin@lawcourtshotel.co.nz www.lawcourtshotel.co.nz

Carisbrook Motel 169 South Road / 03 455 2167 carism@xtra.co.nz www.carisbrook-motel.co.nz

Dunedin Holiday Park 41 Victoria Rd / 03 455 4690 office@dunedinholidaypark.co.nz www.dunedinholidaypark.co.nz

MAJESTIC MANSIONS APARTMENTS @ ST CLAIR Located just metres from the beach, and minutes from the heart of Dunedin city. Our serviced one and two-bedroom apartments are ideal for short and medium-term stays, for corporates, families and groups. 15 Bedford Street, St Clair 03 456 5000 bookings@majesticmansions.co.nz www.majesticmansions.co.nz

OUTER DUNEDIN Bella Vista Mosgiel 85 Gordon Road, Mosgiel / 03 484 7258 stay@bellavistamosgiel.co.nz www.bellavistamotels.co.nz Bonnie Knights Motel 18-20 Quarry Rd, Mosgiel / 03 489 2415 stay@bonnieknights.co.nz www.bonnieknights.co.nz Mosgiel Regency Motel 50 Gordon Road, Mosgiel / 03 489 4711 mosgiel.regency@xtra.co.nz www.mosgielregency.co.nz

ESPLANADE APARTMENTS Beachfront apartments. Local cafes, restaurants and boutiques. Minutes away from central city. Various apartments for corporates, families and groups 14 Esplanade / 03 456 5000 bookings@esplanade.co.nz www.esplanade.co.nz

Portobello Motel 10 Harington Point Road / 03 478 0155 portobellomotels@xtra.co.nz www.portobellomotels.com Longbourne Lodge Motel 100 School Road South, Mosgiel / 03 489 5701 longbourne.lodge@xtra.co.nz www.longbournelodge.co.nz www.555onbayview.co.nz

A DAY IN THE LIFE Beatlemania was reaching its international apex when the Fab Four visited Dunedin 60 years ago.

(Photos) Evening Star/Otago Images)

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50 / HISTORY

The local constabulary was underprepared for the arrival of The Beatles on June 26, 1964 – although they believed they were. Having been dangerously mobbed outside their hotel, the band was still shaken during a press conference that John Lennon refused to attend. Dunedin broadcaster Neil Collins later asked George Harrison about the hysteria surrounding them, eliciting some classic Liverpudlian humour. “We told your bobbies there was going to be a problem with crowd control,” Harrison said. “They told us ‘we know all about crowd control – we’ve had Vera Lynn here!’” Unsurprisingly, the wartime era singer’s visit hadn’t been greeted with quite the same youthful enthusiasm that The Beatles generated. Following dates across the Tasman on their only Australasian Tour, the Fab Four had been met by large crowds in Wellington and Auckland. But the reception in Dunedin was

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the most frenzied they encountered, with thousands of fans swarming outside the City Hotel on Princes St. “Hysteria reigned. The police were caught off-guard, as surging waves of humanity threatened to get out of control,” Graham Hutchins wrote in Eight Days a Week, a 2004 book about the tour. The band’s trek from car to hotel was fraught, with Lennon losing a large clump of hair before being unceremoniously dumped into the lift. He remembered it as one of the scariest encounters he’d had anywhere. “It was a bit rough,” he said. “They’d put about three policemen on about three or four thousand kids and they refused to put any more on.” While Lennon was a no show at the press conference, he did appear with his bandmates to wave to the crowd from a hotel balcony. Later The Beatles would sneak out a back door to be driven to the Dunedin Town Hall, where they

LEFT: The Beatles are greeted in Dunedin. ABOVE: Paul McCartney and George Harrison performing in Dunedin.

performed at both 6pm and 8pm. A larger contingent of police officers kept the hysterical crowd from rushing the stage, but the screaming didn’t allow the band to be heard. Lennon begged the audience to quieten down so they could be heard, but it was futile. A letter to the Evening Post perhaps best summed up the reality of those 1964 shows. “One rueful youngster of my acquaintance who bought a seat in the front row told me that The Beatles cost him 2s 6d a minute and sounded like a milk truck being driven into a fence.”

MERIDIAN MALL

40 of Australasia’s finest retailers Food court Free wifi Open seven days | 285 George Street (two blocks north from the Octagon)

meridianmall.co.nz

BUY 2 COFFEES & A MUFFIN & RECEIVE A FREE MUFFIN!

A free muffin with any two hot beverages and muffin purchased. Offer is only valid at Muffin Break Meridian. A muffin does not include Duffins or specialty muffins. Muffin Break is located on the lower floor of the Meridian Mall. Please present this offer to redeem. Offer expires 1st of May 2024.