“We look to the landscape for signals. When the black wattle flowered we’d get our fishing gear. We knew it was mullet and tailor time. When we look to the milky way and see that emu shape that was also a sign,” he said.
Dingka Dingka explained why the islands were named, the real origins of K’gari, the likes of which I’d never fully heard, and how unique is the bay with its two river systems, the Mary and Susan running into the same body of water at River Heads.
When our guide took a breather I felt it was time to reconnect with our skipper Wil. I asked him what was the best thing about his job, at which point he looked a little puzzled. His response surprised me.
“I’m not working. This is not a job at all. It’s what we do, and we love it,” Wil said.
On the soft crystalline sands of Pelican Banks Dingka Dingka sang, danced and entertained us with the didgeridoo. On a stop-over on Woody Island he taught us to call eagles by whistling through a small white shell. As we motored back to the marina baby dolphins frolicked and flicked their tails as they playfully circled the boat and led us home safely. I discover that the family’s mission statement is simple. Through their business actions they want to create a lasting change and I believe they do it very well. “The ocean is very special to us, and we want to protect it; but to do so, we must understand nature and we believe there’s no better teachers to learn from than the Butchulla people.”
Curious I probed a little further. I asked why he chose this format, the little open punt. A slow boat. Could it be that the Milbi’s easy pace matched his own? I waited.
“I remember from my time skippering the whale boats I overheard European visitors saying that Australia doesn’t have any culture. I suppose they were talking about buildings and cathedrals. I want to show them that we have 40,000 years or more of culture,” Wil said. Well now the penny well and truly dropped. You can’t appreciate your surroundings or a country without knowing what makes it so. And today our lessons were large.
At this point the boat dropped anchor and we all walked the gangplank onto the beautiful white sands of Pelican Banks. Dingka Dingka invited us to take a walk around the island while he went off into the spinifex and painted himself up. On his return he offered us a welcome to country and a class in culture.
“This here white paint on my chest is for the Willie Wagtail. The stripes running along the outside of my body are for the two river systems. The three lines on my legs are the Butchulla three lores (laws). What is good for the land comes first. When you have plenty, you must share with family and friends. Don’t take what doesn’t belong to you. Ask first. Always look after your elders because they look after you,” he said.
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