C.Y.O Product Innovation by Alice Walker

WORD COUNT: 3,701 HOLLIE RUTTER: Brand DNA SWOT Brand architecture Pen portrait Product design Communication plan Step by step guide SUMMER VALENTINEr: Introduction Methodology PESTLE Market health Macro trends Beauty trends Conclusion Compiling report ALICE WALKER: Competitor analysis Innovation strategy Opportunity platforms Gap analysis HANNAH ALDERSON: Idea selection process Launch recommendations Chosen product Appendix

CANDICE RASTEDE: Risk assessment TEAM: Finances Coming up with ideas Conducting research Report design

CONTENTS 7-8 BRAND CONTEXT

3-4

BRAND OVERVIEW 5-6 METHODOLOGY

9-10 SWOT 11-12 BRAND DNA B13-14 RAND ARCHITECTURE 15 - 16 CUSTOMER PROFILE

17-18 MARKET INSIGHT 19-20 PESTLE 21-22 MARKET HEALTH 23-26 TRENDS

27-28 INNOVATION STRATEGY 29-30 COMP ANALYSIS 31-32 INNOVATION 33-36 GAP ANALYSIS

37-38 NPD ANALYSIS 39-40 SELCTION PROCESS 41-42 PRODUCT IDEAS 43-46 RISK ANALYSIS

47-48 FINANCES 49-54 CHOOSEN IDEA 55-59 PACKAGING 61-64 CONCLUSION

BRAND OVERVIEW

C.Y.O is positioned as an affordable beauty range, that is currently launching across Boots within the U.K. the brand is built around the core philosophy of #MIXLAYERHACK â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which encourages hyper â&#x20AC;&#x201C; functionality of products, with time saving and multi use products. The brand encourages users to use their products in their own way to create their own looks, and ultimately be experimental in these looks. Identifying a gap in the market is essential for developing a new product for the brand, this will be established through a range of both primary and secondary research and will result in a new product being developed as a result of identifying this gap. The gap will take into account key macro trends within the market, an understanding of both the brand and market health, as well as using primary research as an insight for new product development.

METHODOLOGY Initial survey to 100 participants: The initial survey was used to gather more consumer opinions based on the general make up market, looking at what brands were popular and what aspects of a brand are important and thus, most likely to result in purchase. The survey also aimed to gain insight into the gaps of the beauty market, and whether there were any specific gaps as identified by the consumer. The key findings of this survey were: The C.Y.O target consumer is confused with who would actually buy the products The C.Y.O brand awareness is low There is some demand for innovation, however this is not high for the target consumer age range.There is a greater need for time saving products however modern beauty hacks aren’t used regularly In depth interviews with 12 participants: Once general knowledge was gained on consumers views on the beauty market, 12 in-depth interviews were conducted using C.YO’s target market, but combining both keen make up users and people who don’t use make up as often to get a variety of opinions. These interviews focused on everyday beauty regimes, make up hacks and gaps in the market, to help gain further insight into possible products that were missing in the market. The key findings of the interviews were: People tend to spend longer on their make up if they are going out. Different age groups are inﬂuenced by different factors when purchasing factors. People were aware and interested in hacks but didn’t tend to use them regularly – mainly due to the negative stigma on the effect of their make up. People tend to use a mix of high end and high street beauty products – but tend to use more high end products if going out.

Focus group with 5 participants plus 4 interviewees: The focus group was conducted with a small number or participants, and the interviewees were encouraged to join in, in order to create a more casual feel for people to express there opinions, and gain a more in-depth knowledge. The aim of the focus group was to gain insight into everyday make up routines and favorite beauty products as participants were asked to bring in there make up bag, as a visual aid to add to the discussion. The key findings of the focus group were: Beauty hacks weren’t considered a key part of everyday make up routines, some may try them out but no participant used them regularly. The participants tended to have a different routine depending on the occasion, basic make up regime was used for everyday use, where as if they were going out they tended to use brighter products as well as more high end. Products that can be used to create different looks for example eye shadow looks that can be used for a day to day and night look are more popular. Products that affect the skin in a negative way aren’t popular – for example matte lipsticks that dry the skin. Playing wit temperature and make up that has a positive benefit on the skin were popular ideas. In depth interviews based on short listed ideas with 5 participants: once ideas were assessed and the gap in the beauty market was identified, 5 participants of the target audience were presented the ideas and they discussed their reaction to the idea based on the information given. The key findings of the in depth interviews were: Eye shadow palette could be problematic as there is such a range of eye colors, so would the brand be able to cater for this range. Participants were concerned with how the mascara wound could be cleaned. The setting spray was popular – but the idea that the spray needed to set was highlighted. Mascara was a popular idea for taking of mascara as pulling of lashes is a problem for taking of make up, this would also save time and room within the make up brand. Eye shadow palette would face a high amount of competition, as this is a saturated market. Secondary: Mintel reports: Mintel reports were used to gain market analysis, these were used in initial research to help identify gap in the market, and later in the report when proposing product ideas as supporting research. Trend reports: Reports into trends were essential in gaining insight into what is popular in the market, and thus what would work. These also helped identify key trends that may inﬂuence purchase decision.

BRAND CONTENT 8

STRENGTHS Claiming new space in Boots’s “Candy Shop” reformed lay out. Boots currently having an annual profit of 22.2 million British pounds (Statista.com 2017) and are a British high-street staple. Low price point (£3.50 to £7.50) means that make up is accessible for target demographic and potential future customers. New brand with potential to take market share and customer base from competitive brands in the beauty market. Don’t test on animals therefore targets vegan demographic and cruelty-free beauty trends. Quirky brand image that differentiates from competitors and encourages inclusivity and experimentation. Large range of products with over 200 SKU’s under 4 catergories.

OPPORTUNITIES Impartial reviews with a negative perspective of products online by large inﬂuencers when searching for brand (Tatti, thetaylaa) will inﬂuence perspective on brand. Although being implemented into Boots at current, only 13 out of 102 people asked are aware of the brand CYO – the lowest of all brands. (See appendix for full results.) Only 15 shades in face products – limiting inclusivity and dismissing a large macro trend.

WEAKNESSES Able to drive interest behind products and drive purchases as a new brand with an attractive entry level price point. Global increase per capita means more disposable income and an increase in impulsive shopping habits; make-up being a low involvement purchase and can rely on spontaneity and desire to try new products can drive sales. Inclusivity is a major trend moving forwards and CYO’s “no rules” image plays alongside this – with competitive brands such as Fenty beauty receiving a large amount of positive press for a large shade range it is easy to capitalize on this. Growing social media presence and ability to capitalize on inﬂuencer interest in a new brand with PR packages and events.

THREATS Saturation of beauty market makes it difficult to become innovative and increase market share. Intense competition from major brands who capitalize and work with large beauty inﬂuencers who drive major interest behind products; such as Benefit’s Maldives trip for key inﬂuencers from around the world to launch a mascara. Other stores such as Superdrug and stand-alone makeup concession stores host most products and in some cases are able to have a larger product line on display due to counter size.

SWOT By launching within Boots as part of their distribution strategy CYO are able to capitalize and directly target their key demographic and attract interest by customer who will purchase new brands sporadically. CYOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s low price point and extensive range of products available both instore and online will make the brand extremely attractive to those who are starting out in makeup, students, or customers looking for high end dupes. Saturation within the market place and the trend of inclusivity and diversity in foundation and concealer shades will impose on CYOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s opportunities of growth as more competitors offer a larger range and receive inďŹ&#x201A;uencer praise for doing so; this alternatively opens up opportunities to increase personalization of shade ranges of both face and eye makeup to target a larger audience and drive brand interest.

Much than just a cosmetics company CYO encompass the philosophy of “No Rules” with branding that falls into creating and maintaining a confident customer base, CYO pushes for empowerment.

BRAND DNA

An affordable beauty range that will soon take place in Boots across the UK, CYO want to “unleash the potential of the CYO generation” and encourage exploration, friendship and courage using make-up to #MixLayerHack.

BRAND PROMISE “CYO is your partner in crime helping you make the most of it, now”.

BRAND ESSENCE EXPLORATION

Intrepid, Curiosity, Playfulness

FRIENDSHIP

Collaboration, Solidarity, Understanding COURAGE Determination, Boldness, Confidence

BRAND PURPOSE “Unleashing the potential of the CYO generation”.

BRAND ARCHITECTURE CYO’s brand architecture is made up of over 200 SKUS under 4 categories (displayed on the adjacent page) all of which range between entry level price points of £3 up to £7.50. With the “Core Heroes” range consisting of 7 different products that lie at the heart of the brand such as the illuminating mixing cream, contour stick, kohl eyeliner, brow sculpting pencil and more. CYO additionally feature a line that specifically caters to micro trends and season fad essentials; the “Buzz Line-up” products which follow trends and are replaced seasonally and at current feature metallic eyeshadow, metallic liquid lipstick, ombre lipstick and bronzing shimmer oil.

FACE

LIPS

EYES

Foundation

Matte Lipstick

Matte eyeshadow

Contour stick

Moisturising

Concealer

Lipstick

Metallic eyeshadow

Blush powder

Plumping Gloss

Shimmer eyeshadow

Bronzer

Lip Liner

Brow gel

Blush

Ombre lipstick

Mascara

Illuminating mixing cream

Lip Primer

Metallic eye stick

Bronzing shimmer oil Fixing spray Primer Highlighter Setting powder

Brow sculpting pencil Eyeliner marker pen

TOOLS Blotting paper

CUSTOMER PROFILE A 19-year-old who has a burning desire to “stand out whilst fitting in” at the same time. Wielding an interest in make-up and a desire to try something new she engages heavily in social media and has a long list of “favourite” social media stars who she will frequently spend her evenings watching and meticulously learning tips from on YouTube; Jenna will frequently go into store to test items out before purchasing as she trusts her own judgement more than that of the internet. A social butterﬂy Jenna is extremely friend central, she has just left sixth from and has moved on to University to study Psychology, she looks for make-up that accentuates her best features and can seamlessly fit into her daytime life and night time without a heavy transition. Growing in confidence and starting to open to wearing brighter colours and expressing herself, Jenna enjoys nothing more than experimenting with colour and looks for product innovation, hacks and “pragmatic” advice from her friends and online beauty gurus.

MARKET INSIGHT 18

POLITICAL

There is political uncertainty facing the United Kingdom, mainly due to Brexit and the change in political power, this causes the UK to face an uncertain future; this has had a knock on effect on the value of the pound, and in turn UK businesses. The Financial Times reported the knock on effect that politics has had on the UK as ‘The UK is also vulnerable not only to the Brexit negotiations, but to other significant events inside the EU’ (Financial Times 2016). This highlights uncertainty for the country and highlights a potentially problematic future. The problems that politically uncertainty brings may be also problematic for CYO – as launching brand consumers may be less likely to give this brand a try, as they are less willing to spend money due to saving for an uncertain future. This therefore means they may be more likely to go for brands they have previously used and therefore trust.

ECONOMICAL

People are increasingly having a less disposable income, mainly due to the rise in inﬂation, the Telegraph reports ‘household income falling at fastest rate since 1976 as UK savings rate crashes’ (Elliott, 2017). This change in income ultimately effects people spending, a less disposable income may mean people are more inclined to save, rather than to boy impulsively. CYO is a high street make up brand – people having a less disposable income may work in their favour as people may be more inclined to buy beauty products from the high street rather than high end products. However people may also be less likely to buy make up, which may affect the success of the brand.

SOCIAL

Consumers continue to demand more from brands, for example quality, price, customer service etc increase. In recent years ‘customers are more demanding than ever. They have more power than they used to. They are smarter and have higher expectations than ever before’ (Hyken, 2016); this is something brands need to be considerate off especially when marketing to the consumers. As the make up market is highly saturated, CYO need to meet the increased demand of consumers and stand out from other make up brands. The brand needs to continue to put the consumer at the forefront when marketing products and connecting with consumers in order to build brand loyalty. 19

Social media has become an essential platform for brands to connect with consumer, as ‘74% of consumers make purchase decisions based around brands social media’ (Barker, 2017). This indicates consumers primarily engaging with brands through forms of social media, suggesting a brands popularity on social media fundamentally effects purchase decision. People are increasingly engaging with social media as a form of inspiration for make up, therefore CYO need to increase there presence on social media channels in order to engage with their target demographic, and increase the chance of purchase. This will also help CYO become a more recognized name within the make up industry.

TECHNOLOGY

Brands are becoming increasingly aware of legal regulations facing pay – for example brands need to have fair wages for staff making their products as well as fair wages for staff in other segments of the businesses. As the equal pay gap has become an increasingly debated topic this is something businesses need to continue to be aware off. CYO must liaise well will all aspects of the production and distribution process in terms of their awareness and acceptance of equal pay. It is important that even though females heavily dominate the high street beauty market, there is an equal and fair rate of pay for all aspects of the brand. This will resonate through the brand and their personality making them a favourable choice with their target consumer; as they are tackling a modern day issue their consumers are aware of. A modern day environmental issue is peoples rising concerning of single use plastic and packaging. The use of recyclable or reusable packaging is something that is becoming increasingly sought after, especially within the beauty industry. This is an issue that is at the front of people’s minds particularly within the 18-30 age demographic. CYO need to be considerable of their consumers ethical and environmental consciousness which in turn would give them an edge on their competitors. Using recyclable cardboard for their makeup packaging is something they should consider for the future to improve their environmental stamp, which is an issue that resonates with their target consumer. 20

LEGAL

ENVIRONMENT

MARKET HEALTH The cosmetics category is set to continue to grow, specifically, ‘with purchase of foundation, concealer and face powder seeing a rise’ (Khanom, 2017), other segments that are predicted growth include the eye and lip categories which are driven by make up trends ‘such as bold eyes and matte lipsticks’ (Khanom, 2017). In consideration to the market share ‘Boots continue to dominate with 15% of the market’ (Dover, 2018), whilst non-specialists are also becoming more dominant within the market, for example ASOS, this is mainly due to availability of the products (Dover, 2018). This highlights high-street brands continuing to gain momentum and see a rise in popularity; however, Mintel report, whilst both high-street and high end brands have both reported category growth ‘prestige out preformed mass, suggesting that women are spending more in this section’ (Khanm, 2017).

Considering the key factors behind the market growth are essential in understanding the predicted growth of the market, it is reported theâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Key drivers behind the categoryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success is the emotional connection that women continue to have with make-up.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Copp, 2017). This is supported by research conducted by Mintel that found, 64% of women believe make up increases their confidence, where as 43% believe it makes them feel more attractive (Khanom, 2017). These factors suggest this emotional connection works in favor of cosmetics brands, and the overall cosmetic market, as consumers are more likely to repeat purchases.

MACRO TRENDS Convenience and beauty hacks CYO promote beauty hacks through mix, layer, hack which is prominent throughout the brands promotion strategy, thus the trend of convenience and beauty hacks is a chance for the brand to continue to promote this and engage with consumers. The trend focuses on ‘consumers are looking for products, which enable them to get the look without the time, financial, and knowledge investment’ (Boots, 2018). This highlights consumers becoming more busy, and thus needing products that coincide with this lifestyle, this has led ‘to a wave of beauty product launches which tap into the consumer need of convenience and ‘on the go’ solutions.’ (Boots, 2018). This is something CYO need to continue to consider when developing new products, keeping convenience at the forefront.

DIY beauty DIY beauty is fundamentally ‘inviting consumers to mix and create their own concoctions, tailored to their skincare needs or color whims.’ (Walter, 2018, page 112), highlighting the increased amount of experimentation in the beauty industry. Consumers are seeking a personalized experience, which can be translated into products; ‘brands are picking up on consumers’ appetite for personalization and experimentation when it comes to beauty products— and their yen to stamp their identity on their products. (Walter, 2018, page 113)

Hyper personalized beauty Hyper personalized beauty is ‘the move towards diagnostic, highly personalized health and beauty goods and services’ which ‘is now being seen in more general retail’ ( Walker, 2018, page 130). The idea that consumers a more comfortable with giving retailers more personal details e.g. based around skin type, in order to receive a more bespoke experience is highlighting in L’Oreal for example ‘when it launched My UV Patch in 2016, under its La Roche-Posay brand.’ (Walker, 2018, page 129). This is an example of consumers expecting a more personalized experience that is translated into a bespoke product, this is an opportunity for CYO as they promote the individuality of the consumer at the forefront of the brand.

BEAUTY TRENDS All in one kits All in one kits are predominate in the macro trend of convenience, as they have multi uses and therefore are more convenient than having multiple beauty products. All in one kits can be described as ‘satisfying all of your beauty needs with a few products instead of a whole kit’ (Weiner, 2017). This trend is important for CYO as they promote convince, using the idea of beauty hacks, therefore having multi functioning products embraces this ethos. An example of this is ‘eye shadows will double as highlighters, lipsticks as blushes, and bronzers as contours’ (Weiner, 2017). This is something that CYO need to continue to build on, in order to keep the idea of convenience at the forefront of innovation.

Simplified beauty regime Simplified beauty regimes have become more popular as consumer have a higher demand for convenience, ‘consumers will be most excited by brands that sell a compacted range of products that advocate simplicity and ease.’ (Fetto, 2017). Similar to all in one kits this trend is based around convenience and time saving beauty regimes, for example 3-in-1’s that have not been done before (Fetto, 2017). Simplified beauty regimes build into the CYO essence of mix, layer, hack – the idea that products can be multi use, easy to use and time saving, as consumers will be increasingly in ‘favor of multi-purpose products’ (Fettto, 2017). This is an opportunity as CYO continue to promote time saving, easy use products, which will continue to appeal to consumers as they look for a more simplified beauty regime.

Bold eye designs

The bold eye trend has been up and coming within the beauty market, both in high end and this is translated onto the high street. The trend is ‘all about being a bit off and not being too considered that’s what makes it look fresh ‘(Driver, 2018), this builds into the macro trend of individualism, and experimentation. Mintel reports ‘Bold eye designs using liner and glitter, as seen at Chanel, Holly Fulton and Burberry, are set to become the standout beauty trend for the new season.’ (Libby, 2017) Self-expression is becoming more important to individuals, which CYO recognize as they have built there ethos around breaking beauty rules. Some examples of this trend in practice is ‘Chanel created a ‘quilted eye’ using black eye shadow to mimic the quilted pattern on Chanel handbags. Meanwhile Burberry and Holly Fulton featured statement glitter across the lids and the corners of the eyes.’ (Libby, 2017)

INNOVATION STRATEGY 28

COMPETITOR ANALYSIS This positioning map shows quite a crowded area with lots of brands targeting the young demographic at a small price which is not surprising because people just starting out in makeup will want to experiment with lower priced products before buying the more advanced, premium items. This also takes into account the PESTLE, which earlier mentioned people having a less disposable income, effecting purchases.

In terms of competition CYO are closest to BarryM and Makeup Revolution. BarryM was created in 1982 in the UK so already have a strong heritage and therefore have brand loyalty to many consumers, being a threat to the new brand CYO. They are also known for providing extremely colourful products which appeal to the younger demographic of being experimental so CYO will have to target their young consumer in the same fun way; they also have a similar price range, and range of products. Makeup Revolution have been doing extremely well recently, gaining lots of advertising from inďŹ&#x201A;uencers on YouTube to grab the attention of the younger target market. They offer high end dupes for a fraction of the price so CYO will need to reďŹ&#x201A;ect this need for high quality and pigmented products at a much smaller price in order to compete.

This next positioning map shows a greater gap in the market for more affordable/reasonable quality innovation. BarryM is again the main competitor who offers innovation in pigment and colour, which CYO could choose to tap into. There is more innovation in the high-quality market as they can afford to take risks but brands like Sleek and Makeup Revolution have found a good middle ground to be innovative but still at a low price and reasonable quality to excite customers.

INNOVATION STRATEGY After analysing primary and secondary research using sources such as Mintel, wgsn and Intercos as well as taking insights from qualitative focus groups and interviews, six main opportunity platforms have been identified. This is the innovation stratgey to show where potential platforms can be used in order to innovate in a successful and focused way.

STATEMENT “Allow the 16-25-year-old target market experiment with make-up and give them the freedom to discover who they are” OPPORTUNITY PLATFORMS Health and Wellness Stimulating the senses, high level of actives.

Easy and Affordable

Appeal to the target of “making the most of now” convenience and beauty hacks.

DIY Experimental Playing on the customers new found freedom to help in building her identity.

Iconic Feminism

Not shying away from being boldly feminine, being very glamorous to empower women and girls.

Travel

Online Inspiration

Customer wants to spend more on valuable experiences (traveling) than materialistic products.

Wanting to look like the “Insta-girl” wanting ﬂawless and airbrushed skin.

PRIORITISING OPPORTUNITY PLATFORMS

This map suggests that we should prioritise the platforms of health and wellness, travel and ease and affordability, as these show a big size of opportunity. The health and wellness opportunity would be the hardest to incorporated into a makeup product however the size of this opportunity is worth pushing the boundaries for.

GAP ANALYSIS-TRAVEL There are two possible gap opportunities however CYO does target a very young consumer so it should focus positioning itself at the top left hand side. Mintel states that “76% of people agree that travel-sized products are overpriced.” (Mintel, Holiday Beauty, 2017) Which can work to CYO’s advantage by being a very affordable brand with multifunctional products that would appeal to a traveling market. By using this map CYO can move into the gap of playful, travel products targeted at a young demographic as Mintel also says that “NPD in the holiday beauty sector largely focuses on convenience” (Mintel, Holiday Beauty, 2017) which CYO do extremely well.

HEALTH AND WELLNESS This shows a possible gap in the market for mass make up products offering health and wellness benefits with scientific technology. The more premium brands are able to incorporate science into their products as there is more money behind the brand driving innovation however if CYO could find a scientific solution with health benefits that would be new to the mass market.

EASY AND AFFORDABLE In general, there is a big gap opportunity for brands that provide easy and affordable make up that is protective and functional, whilst also working for going out purpose. It is clear that if a brand is easy and affordable most of their products will be for every day. Therefore, there is an opportunity for CYO to develop a new product that is functional, has performance properties whilst also having a purpose of being a going out look. This is proven from trend analysis when boots said “consumers are looking for products, which enable them to get the look without the time, financial, and knowledge investment’” (Boots, 2018).

NPD ANALYSIS 38

IDEA SELECTION PROCESS

The selection process for new product development ideas involved the use of an innovation model that mapped potential ideas against their level of innovation within the competitive environment and the degree of brand stretch. Mapping potential ideas across this platform meant the ideas that would perform more lucratively whilst still being able to resonate with CYOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current target consumer. The selection process equated to three ideas being finalised with a view to producing the favoured product.

IDEAS EYESHADOW PALETTE TAILORED TO YOUR EYE COLOUR Perhaps unsurprisingly, women show significantly more interest than men in using in-store beauty services. Despite women being most interested in using in-store beauty treatments, research for the Attitudes towards Buying Beauty and Personal Care section highlights one barrier to entry for a lot of women wanting to use such services. The research found that 42% of women feel too exposed to use in-store beauty or personal care services, compared to just 27% of men. This figure is even higher among young women, rising to 48% of female 16-24s. As women show the most interest, this could be an issue for retailers wanting to grow the use of such concepts, with many still predominantly targeted towards women and specifically young women. Therefore, retailers that can assure privacy will be best placed to succeed. (Dover, S., 2018.) Personalisation as a trend is emerging within the modern-day beauty market and is continuing to inďŹ&#x201A;uence both packaging and products. No7 launched the personalised foundation shade range whereby they took a photo of your skin and matched it to your perfect foundation shade. The expansion of this concept is something easily adaptable by CYO. The in-store environment would include a colour identifying scanner to decide the exact colour of the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye. Then using colour match technology, an eyeshadow palette will be built consisting of two layers: one with neutral tones for day time and another for contrasting and daring tones for night time looks. A how to: guide with eye makeup looks inspired by the palette will be included incorporating the CYO #mixlayerhack. From a recent Mintel report it was revealed that, across the board, young people also show significantly more interest in using in-store services whilst shopping for beauty and personal care. This confirms the importance of having an engaging in-store experience to attract young shoppers. (Dover, S., 2018.)

SPF SETTING SPRAY Skincare and make-up with SPF is the second most used format at 17% of adults, which is unsurprising given that 41% of women agree moisturisers that contain SPF are as effective as using a separate SPF product. However, considering these products provide a much lower level of coverage than the SPF rating on the packaging suggests, there may still need to be more education from suncare companies about this issue. (Fisher, A., 2017.) Suncare awareness and education is something the beauty industry should be breaking into. The inclusion of SPF in foundations is not fully expanded across the market hence awareness is low of the importance of wearing SPF every day, not just whilst on holiday or being directly exposed to sunlight. The use of an SPF within a beauty regime is easy to miss and therefore combining it with a product that is already a staple in most people’s regime would improve the awareness and education of the importance of SPF daily. Creating an SPF focused setting spray that does not affect the makeup look whilst providing vital sun protection and nutrients for the skin is an expansion that CYO could deliver giving them another edge on their competitors.

DOUBLE ENDED MASCARA WITH LENGTHENING FIBRES AND CLEANSING REMOVER

Skincare products, including face and body, are the most purchased type of beauty product due to the high purchasing levels among women (76%). (Monk, H., 2016.) The emergence of nourishment and skincare is one that should be adapted across all aspects of the beauty market. It is important for brands to become civic brands in terms of skincare, especially those who are aiming at a younger audience. The concept behind the emerging micro trend of civic brands is that ‘businesses are increasingly stepping where there are failings and acting as forces for good in society. (Mickiewicz, Maks Fus 2017) A multi use product that incorporates a nourishing lash primer, a mascara created with fibres that lengthen the lashes given the impression you’re wearing false lashes and a third brush used as a mascara remover to look after your lashes and keeping them clean. The brush heads are interchangeable meaning should the brush head get dirty after frequent use they can be replaced without having to buy a new product in its entirety. The combination of beneficial mascara based products in one tool is a concept easily adaptable by CYO. A triple ended mascara wand: a solution that includes lengthening fibres that give the illusion of false lash extensions, a setting mascara that sets the fibres in place and a final wand that soaks the products off whilst improving the strength and condition of the lashes. This links with the health and wellness trend as well as the demand or time saving beauty hacks, a concept that resonates with the brand message and target consumer.

RISK ASSESMENT The selection process for new product development ideas has resulted in the following three ideas. Each idea includes barriers that must be analysed in order to weigh the potential risk of each idea, products must be powerful enough to resonant with CYO’s current target consumer in an already saturated market.

SPF SETTING SPRAY The beauty industry is lacking in an area that could prevent lasting harm to our skin: ranging from premature aging to skin cancer, as well as providing a perfect, lasting finish for our makeup. Although products containing SPFs are all over the shelf, how safe are these products we apply to our skin daily? Potentials risks of SPF setting spray are extremely prevalent because some of these products contain ingredients that are harmful to our skin. The formulas of setting sprays often contain extracts like botanical oils; oils actually speed up the burning process and become hazardous while in the sun. (Dhaliwal, 2015) It is essential companies ensure all ingredients used to make the SPF are stable by trained cosmetic chemists. “…even if you do use the right ingredients, like zinc oxide, cosmetic chemists say there is an art to mixing them together, and if you do it wrong - which chances are you will - the sunscreen will be ineffective” (Lumsden, 2014). “According to the Environmental Working Group, the ingredients that are most disruptive are: oxybenzone, octinoxate, homosalate, octisalate, and octocrylene. A quick survey of the most commonly found sunscreens in a Duane Reade showed that almost all of them contained one or more of the above” (Lumsden, 2014). An alternative method, suggested by bloggers and doctors, is to use a mineral-only based sunscreen where the protection is provided by zinc oxide or titanium oxide – this results in the SPF being lower so you must reapply often, causing inconvenience for a setting spray product that should last all day. There are multiple of these protective mist products already available to buy on the shelves of high-end stores such as Sephora, prices ranging from £20 - £45. These high-end products have promised to provide UVA/UVB protection as well as being completely sweat proof. (Valenti, 2017) CYO’s current products range from £3.50 - £7: a huge potential risk is the inability to produce a product

TAILORED EYESHADOWS Primary research conducted, combined with the previous macro trends outlined, indicates a personalised product will be popular in the target market, this is due to need for personalisation and tailor made products. Articles by InStyle, E! News, LoveToKnow, and various other outlets report on the best eyeshadow palettes for every eye colour, this makes the eye colour stand out more; the main risk of CYO to launch a product specifically tailored to the consumer’s eye colour is getting lost in the saturated market. Eye shadows are a popular make up product, and a frequently brought both at high end and high street level; therefore CYO would have a high amount of competition. In addition this, the brand essence of CYO is based around breaking rules, and individuality – thus having a palette that is for certain eye colours may lose this essence, as people may feel restricted to only buying the designated eye colour, this is a risk for CYO. In relation to costing CYO’s current eyeshadow palettes sell for £7.50 each, the pricing of the eyeshadow would have to keep in line with this, which may be difficult due to the costing of the product and the technology of matching eye colours to shades, therefore showing the financial risk for CYO. The technology may also require vast testing, and improving to ensure it works to a high standard, this is something CYO may not be able to currently afford. In relation to competition, Charlotte Tilbury currently do eyeshadow sticks in which colours are recommended for certain eye colours, however these are only recommendation and are not specifically tailored for specific eye colours, this product is also of a much higher price point than CYO’s, therefore would be a high street alternative.

MUTLI USE MASCARA A product that lengthens and nourishes your lashes, cleanses them at the end of the day, and an all-in-one product is attractive in the beauty market, but will this result in a short lived trend if consumers find a cheaper solution? The use of micellar water on one end of the mascara is brilliant. This gentle makeup remover does not contain alcohol, never stings, and is perfect for a product to remove eye makeup, but it may not be the most effective on a mascara brush alone. According to Dana Oliver with the HuffPost, it is best to use a super absorbent item like a cotton ball or pad when applying micellar water – this is so that the product can more easily soak up dirt. (Oliver, 2016) Articles explaining the use of micellar water also suggests using cotton pads. Dawn Chen explains: “to use, soak a cotton pad with micellar water and gently wipe off all traces of sunscreen, dirt and makeup. Hold the cotton pad over your eyes to dissolve waterproof mascara and eyeliner” (Chen, 2017). Micellar water does not require rinsing after using the product, but researchers over and over again suggest using a cotton pad for best results. Newer products such as simple makeup removers advertise their products remove stubborn eye makeup in as little as one swipe and won’t irritate the sensitive eye area. “Micellar water wont remove stubborn eye makeup like waterproof mascara” (Oliver, 2016). This two-in-one product may be convenient for travel and on the go makeup, but will this result in a short lived trend if consumers find that technology, fancy soaps, and effective eye make-up removers are doing a better job? Few products do already exist similar to this one: Too Faced’s melt off mascara contains a cleansing oil, this product sells for £14 for a 6.8ml bottle. Risks of quality arise when competing for the lowest price, because the product contains two brushes, one for mascara, one for the cleanser, the mascara wand may not produce voluminous or long lashes. With expensive mascaras, often the brush is what you are paying for. The innovation behind this idea may also raise the cost of the product, more research must be done in order to ensure the product is safe to cleanse the sensitive area of the eyes.

Product concept

Estimated technical feasibility

Competitive advantage

Consumer interest

Risks

Flutterbye

Medium

High

Technical feasibility

SFP Spray

Medium

Success of both components

Eye shadows

High

Low

Medium

Standing out in a saturated market

PROPOSED FINANCES When considering the size of the prize, considerations were made to consumer feedback, primary research and macro trends, the product proposed takes these factors into account, alongside filling the gap identified in the market. The estimation made is based on the retail price of £7.50, this is due to the innovation of the product, and the 3 – in – 1 formula, this would be at the higher retailing end of CYO’s range. This projects a potential annual return of £632,573 – making this a profitable strategy for CYO.

CHOSEN PRODUCT 50

FLUTTERBYE THE PROBLEM: No health benefit to removing mascara THE SOLUTION: multi use mascara, focusing on the removal and the health benefit

The triple ended nourishing, enhancing and cleansing mascara ‘FlutterBYE’ incorporates several current beauty trends as well as state of the art innovation developed within the beauty industry. The lengthening aspect of the product uses 3D fibre technology, an emerging trend in innovation beauty. It requires the lashes to be primed first with a mascara, this is the first section of the product, the fibres are then applied with a normal bristle mascara brush and the intensity can be adjusted through the application of fewer or more layers. This layer is then set with a second layer of the mascara to secure the lashes in place. The product can be topped up or reduced throughout the day by using either the fibre brush or the remover without affecting any other aspects of your makeup. From primary research, it was found the most successful solution for removing heavy fibre based mascara is not oil based and combines natural ingredients like coconut oil and aloe vera mixed together with micellar water, an emerging trend in the safe removal of makeup. Using a mixture of coconut oil and aloe vera on your lashes is also proven to strengthen and lengthen them over time. This means the extended use of all aspects of ‘FlutterBYE’ will decrease the necessity to reach for the false lash extensions in any occasion.

NPD LAUNCH RECOMMENDATIONS Upon the launch of this product, considerations must be made on the physical store environment and available space elected to CYO. Currently the space designated to CYO is not one with an indulgent budget for in store innovation and new product development. Therefore, marketing materials that are low costing yet still effective would be most favourable for the brand. Social media is the first touchpoint of interaction between consumer and brand and should be the first place ‘FlutterBYE’ is launched. It is important that the brand stresses the multi-purpose of this tool as well as its ability to reduce the size of one’s makeup whilst in turn providing luscious, thick and healthy lashes at an affordable price point. The in-store environment needs to considered to ensure the longevity of the success of the product. When a new product launches in Boots there is the possibility of an expansion in physical ﬂoor space but it is important not to rely on the hype of front of store traffic to get people to purchase the product. Billboards and posters in store will feature the three factors of the product and explain the benefits of each. Promise marketing is known to draw the target consumer in wanting to know more. Therefore, promoting the product through the assurance of achieving long lashes that look as if you’re wearing false lashes, reducing the time it takes to remove your eye makeup and not pulling them out when removing your makeup whilst being able to look after your lashes at an affordable price point would be a way that would work lucratively in terms of millennial, CYO’s current target consumer.

SPIKY BALL TIP WAND - MOSTLY USED FOR SEPERATING LASHES This wand can be used in the priming and setting mascara solution that is put on before and after the fibre solution. The concentrated round brush head means it separates the lashes more effectively and therefore would work most effectively to prepare the lashes for the fibre lash extensions. This solution can also be used as a normal mascara meaning this brush is multifunctional.

BUBBLE WAND - MOSTLY USED FOR LENGTHENING LASHES This wand will be used for the 3D fibre technology within the mascara. The three parts to this wand allows for a better overall coverage of the product onto the lashes yet still gives them a natural length look that canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be achieved through false lashes. This wand is easy to clean but will also be interchangeable with replacement brush heads to ensure the product is being applied hygienically.

CURVED WAND â&#x20AC;&#x201C; MOSTLY USED FOR CURLING This wand can be used to remove the fibre solution and cleanse the lashes. This is the most innovative aspect of the product and it is therefore important that the brush works effectively with the brush. The curved edge of the brush conforms to the curves of your natural eyelashes. This will result in a full removal of the product and the lashes being fully covered in the lengthening and strengthening nutrients.

INTERCHANGEABLE HEADS From both primary and secondary research, concerns arise about the cleanliness of the brush heads if constantly being used to remove heavy mascara. Hence considerations were made whereby the brush heads are interchangeable. The brush heads supplied with the original product will last for 30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 40 uses, the separate brush heads can then be purchased separately to ensure the longevity of the product and encourage repeat purchases from CYO. From a recent Mintel report it was revealed that â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;the cleanliness of make-up and beauty products is a key issue for the market, with women prompted to clean and replace products at regular intervals. Brushes and applicators can reduce bacteria found in make-up and skincare products as fingers are not in contact with the product, which can be appealing for women worried about bacteria. However, considering studies such as that conducted by the London Metropolitan University more new products choose to contain in-built applicators, the external tools and accessories market may suffer. Indeed, 40% of make-up users prefer products which do not need separate applicators, rising to 47% amongst women aged 16-24 (Libby, Charlotte 2016). Hence there will be an array of brush heads available to purchase for all three aspects of the product making the product customisable and accessible for a wider platform.

PRODUCT DESIGN

MIX Mix the primer with any CYO mascara for incredible lashes that grow to unknown lengths LAYER Layer on the mascara for a false lash look HACK Gone one step too far with your mascara? One sweep of the cleanser and take yourself a step back for a perfected look.

* HI-QUALITY, HI-VERSATILITY, HI-DESIGN, HI-PERFORMANCE MAKE-UP.

1 2

STEP BY STEP STEP ONE - The first section that would be used is the descretely placed spikey ball tipped wand ; this mascara wand acts as a primer to help lengthen and nourish lashes. The primer section is kept within the lid section of the mascara wand, the primer solution is stored within the wand head, the primer solution is not white to ensure that lashes appear as dark and long as possible after use.

STEP TWO - The subsequent section is the fibre based mascara; the mascara solution takes up half of the middle section of the mascaraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s body and uses a bubble wand to help lengthen lashes. Using the mascara after using the primer helps to encourage lash growth and the fibres adhere to the primer giving the illusion of longer, thicker lashes.

STEP THREE - The final step of the process happens at the end of the day. Following a day of wearing the FlutterBYE mascara you simply take the white end of the mascara and swipe the cleaning solution - using this solution helps to remove the fibres from the eyelashes and take it off in one swipe. The cleanisng solution is based in the opposite half of the main body, adjacent too the mascara solution. The cleansing solution dissolves removed mascara.

COMMUNICATION PLAN Staying inline with brand the Flutterbye mascara will follow the Mix, Layer, Hack ideology. All social media posts (see adjacent page for mock ups for instagram and online communication) will include the phrasing â&#x20AC;&#x153;Correct, Create, Cleanseâ&#x20AC;? which will be the running promotional by-line for the product. In store promotion and online communication will heavily focus on the multifunctional use of the product and attempt to reiterate the benefits of the product on both health of eyelashes and convenience of us .

CONCLUSION

This report includes a full innovation strategy for the high street brand CYO, the innovation strategy takes into account the current health of the beauty market, the macro trends that are effecting the general market, alongside looking at beauty specific gaps. This information combined with a vast amount of primary research indicated a gap in the current beauty market, the problem discovered was a there was not a health beneficial solution to taking of mascara, whipping away at the eyes can result in loss of eyelashes and prevention of growth. Taking this into account, alongside the essence of CYO, indicated a multi use product that would fit with the brand, therefore the product detailed is a solution to the problem in the market, whilst also being a multi use product and having positive health benefits. The branding of the product fits well with the CYO brand, and would positively benefit the current CYO product range, it would also allow them to become a more stand out brand in the market due to the innovation and multi use benefits of this product. The potential risks of this product have been outline, however the benefits, both financially and for the outlook for the brand out way these risks, in addition to this, the risks outlined are resolvable. Flutterbye will become a hero product within the CYO range, subsequently filling a gap in the current market.

ETHICS CLAUSE Ethics clause: I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that we have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project Signed: Date:

WORK STREAM STATUS:

APPENDIX INITIAL GENERAL AWARENESS AWARENESS SURVEY

INTERVIEWS

Interviews – Mazie aged 16 What are your staple make up products that you use daily? Concealer Eye brow crayon Mascara Powder Highlighter What brands do you use most regularly? Revolution MUA Elf Bobbi brown Rimmel Maybelline How long would you say you spend on a regular daily make up look? On a regular make up look half an hour - for school I would do a quick makeup not using eyeshadow. What do you look for when purchasing a make up product? Good quality, colour of the tones. Are you interested in beauty hacks, and time saving beauty products? Not really. If yes, are there any beauty hacks that you use regularly? Do you think there’s anything missing in the current make up market? A stamp on eyeliner to save time. Do you have different make up for nights out than from your everyday make up look – if so what are the main differences between these? I will use eyeshadow and eyeliner, wear lipstick and overall spend more time perfecting my makeup. I want my highlight to pop!! Interviews – Chelsie aged 22 What are your staple make up products that you use daily? Estée Lauder foundation Collection concealer Benefit mascara Eyebrow pencil Hoola bronzer Powder Max primer What brands do you use most regularly? Mac Estée Lauder

Benefit Collection Bobbi brown Urban decay How long would you say you spend on a regular daily make up look? 15 - 20 mins What do you look for when purchasing a make up product? Quality Reviews of the product Price Are you interested in beauty hacks, and time saving beauty products? Yes If yes, are there any beauty hacks that you use regularly? No Do you think there’s anything missing in the current make up market? A self tanning bath bomb Lasting powder Do you have different make up for nights out than from your everyday make up look – if so what are the main differences between these? Yes definitely, spend over an hour getting ready on a night out. Use eyeshadow and eyeliner, makeup is much more detailed and I use more of it. Use bolder colours. Interviews – Caitlin What are your staple make up products that you use daily? Concealer and loose powder. What brands do you use most regularly? Benefit and BareMinerals. How long would you say you spend on a regular daily make up look? Not even 5 minutes if I’m at work as I just dap a bit of concealer where I have a scar or spot, then dust my T-Zone with powder. A bit longer at weekends maybe 10-15 at weekends as I have more time to get ready and am normally going somewhere nice. What do you look for when purchasing a make up product? If it will be detrimental to my skin or not, I have sensitive/oily/acne prone skin so if I were buying a foundation that was heavily oil based this could make me look greasy and break out more! I also look for the quality of the products as I really like to look after my skin and wouldn’t want to put harsh chemicals or something I may have a reaction to anywhere near my face. I’d also stay away if they tested on animals or if I couldn’t justify the price tag. Are you interested in beauty hacks, and time saving beauty products? Time saving beauty products defo! I’m all about those extra minutes in bed in the morning!! Beauty hacks… possibly. I’m not sure I wear or own enough make up for them to be beneficial. If yes, are there any beauty hacks that you use regularly? My best friend taught me to use a damp beauty blender instead of my fingers, as long as the sponge is clean then there’s no oil transfer so less chance of nasty spots popping up!!

Do you think there’s anything missing in the current make up market? I’m a makeup rookie so there could possibly already be products that do this, but having had problematic skin over the last 2 years I have been left with some scarring/holes in my forehead from where I had acne. Spots are no longer my issue it’s these holes that just seem huge to me. I’ve tried primers and CC creams under my foundation but I feel if anything when I wear makeup they’re more exaggerated as the rest of my skin looks better. So possibly a base product that fills acne ‘pot holes and really covers scarring? Do you have different make up for nights out than from your everyday make up look – if so what are the main differences between these? Yes, as I don’t wear much make up on a daily basis (thankfully I have dark eyelashes). On a night out I would use primer, foundation, concealer, mascara. Then sometimes bronzer, highlighter and eyeshadow. I’m really rubbish at the last 3 though so would only use these if I had my friends around to help! Interviews – Sasha Benfield Age 20 What are your staple make up products that you use daily? Eyebrow pencil and pomade from NYX MAC foundation N25 Maybelline concealer Rimmel bronzer Mary Lou highlighter What brands do you use most regularly? NYX, MAC, Maybelline, Balm How long would you say you spend on a regular daily make up look? 15 minutes What do you look for when purchasing a make up product? Wouldn’t dry out my skin must sit right on my dry skin must match my skin color as I am olive skinned Are you interested in beauty hacks, and time saving beauty products? No Don’t have the time If getting ready and spending more than 15 minutes, then I would be more inclined to try them Lot of effort If yes, are there any beauty hacks that you use regularly? N/A Do you think there’s anything missing in the current make up market? Needs to be a wider range of skin tones More attention to skin types Do you have different make up for nights out than from your everyday make up look – if so what are the main differences between these? Use different products Different eyeshadow palettes e.g. Urban Decay Heat and Morphe 35o Wear mascara Benefit and Maybelline Use MAC setting spray

On a night in general I use more products Interviews – Beth Talbot – 16 – Studying make up in college What are your staple make up products that you use daily? Foundation, Concealer, Eyebrow pomade, highlight, contour, mascara, eyeshadow -palettes, brow gel, lip gloss What brands do you use most regularly? Urban Decay, Mac, Too faced, Tarte How long would you say you spend on a regular daily make up look? Half an hour What do you look for when purchasing a make up product? Good reviews online – hyped online - affordable Are you interested in beauty hacks, and time saving beauty products? No, I’m willing to wake up 15 minutes earlier to make sure that I do things properly, I think everyone has their own way of doing things but I wouldn’t consider anything I do already a beauty hack and I don’t think about using them on a day to day basis If yes, are there any beauty hacks that you use regularly? ---Do you think there’s anything missing in the current make up market? Not that I can think of – everything has been thought of Do you have different make up for nights out than from your everyday make up look – if so what are the main differences between these? Don’t go out as under age – take photos for Instagram therefore do heavier makeup for that – more colour and more eyeshadow and liner for those photos as their important for my portfolio. Interviews – Lucy Owen – 19 - Student What are your staple make up products that you use daily? Estee Lauder Foundation Benefit concealer Maybelline concealer Maybelline face powder Benefit bronzer Benefit mascara Urban Decay Setting Spray What brands do you use most regularly? Benefit Maybelline How long would you say you spend on a regular daily make up look? 20-30 minutes What do you look for when purchasing a make up product? Good reviews online – using an app called Influenster.

Are you interested in beauty hacks, and time saving beauty products? Yes because interested in being able to save time in the morning and wake up later If yes, are there any beauty hacks that you use regularly? ---No Do you have different make up for nights out than from your everyday make up look – if so what are the main differences between these? More eye makeup – use eyeliner, eyeshadow, lashes, highlighter, lipstick. Uses more colour on a night out compared to during the day. Interview - Sydney, Janae, Amber What are your staple make up products that you use daily? Sydney (21) “Daily I use concealer, powder, highlight, and blush!” Janae (21) “Hoola bronzer, Urban Decay Troublemaker mascara, Revlon Color Stay brow pencil, Makeup Forever matte velvet foundation” Amber (29) “foundation, bronzer, concealer, eyebrow pencil, mascara, and eye shadow” What brands do you use most regularly? Sydney (21) “I use Maybelline a ton. I also use NYX and Tarte, but I mainly use mostly drug store makeup” Janae (21) “Makeup Forever, Urban Decay” Amber (29) “Lancome, Younique, Nars, Urban Decay” How long would you say you spend on a regular daily make up look? Sydney (21) “I don’t do a lot of makeup daily, so about 5 minutes at the most” Janae (21) “About 5 minutes” Amber (29) “About 5 or 10 minutes for a daily look and 20 minutes for a going out look” What do you look for when purchasing a make up product? Sydney (21) “I watch a ton of YouTube videos, so I look out for products that are recommended by Youtubers. The first thing I normally look at is the price of the makeup and the second thing I look at is the brand of the makeup. If I know a brand I’m more likely to buy the product” Janae (21) “Price, high reviews, popularity, I get a lot of things based off of what the people at the store tell me is best, or what my friends have” Amber (29) “High reviews are important and price” Are you interested in beauty hacks, and time saving beauty products? Sydney (21) “I am definitely, but if the beauty hacks and products are too complicated no” Janae (21) “No, if they’re really easy to use and would help I would get them, but I feel as if I can do everything on my own so I don’t want to spend the money” Amber (29) “No, because they usually do not work very well” If yes, are there any beauty hacks that you use regularly? Sydney (21) “No, I don’t think so” Janae (21) “N/A” Amber (29) “N/A” Do you think there’s anything missing in the current make up market? Sydney (21) “I think that in terms of products there’s just about everything you can think of, but I think that the current market needs more shade ranges in terms of foundation, to cater to every skin color – light, dark, and in between” Janae (21) “Nothing that I can think of, but I’m sure there is something new that will come out that we haven’t thought of yet” Amber (29) “I don’t think so, no” Do you have different make up for nights out than from your everyday make up look – if so what are the main differences between these? Sydney (21) “Yes, for nights out I do a full face of makeup. Foundation, concealer, power, blush, highlight, liquid highlight, eyeliner, brows, eye shadow and

mascara. During the day I just put on make up to make me look more awake” Janae (21) “On nights out I use my Naked and Modern Renaissance pallets for eye looks, I also use setting spray for nights out and I don’t use that for everyday looks. I use highlighter and contour more when I go out as well” Amber (29) “I use the same products, but on nights out I will make it darker or use more product than on a daily basis” Interviews – Grace Walker Age: 16 What are your staple make up products that you use daily? Collection foundation, collection concealer, Rimmel powder, Seventeen contour kit, Ted Baker mascara, Maybeline brow pencil. What brands do you use most regularly? Collection, Rimmel. How long would you say you spend on a regular daily make up look? 15 minutes. What do you look for when purchasing a make up product? Price, quality and colour tone. Are you interested in beauty hacks, and time saving beauty products? Yes. If yes, are there any beauty hacks that you use regularly? No. Do you think there’s anything missing in the current make up market? Not that I know of. Do you have different make up for nights out than from your everyday make up look – if so what are the main differences between these? Yes, more eye shadow and maybe some lipstick. Interviews – Hannah Foxley Age 20 What are your staple make up products that you use daily? Don’t wear makeup daily When I do do it I use: Ordinary serum foundation 1.1P only under my eyes and on my chin NYX micro brow pencil Maybelline brow gel Lip balm MAC lip liner, matching my own lips with a matching Rimmel lipstick Contour stick as bronzer – NYX wonder stick What brands do you use most regularly? Maybelline NYX (brow pencil) The Ordinary How long would you say you spend on a regular daily make up look? 10 mins

What do you look for when purchasing a make-up product? The brand Glossier and The Ordinary – if I like the brand I would buy the product Are you interested in beauty hacks, and time saving beauty products? No not beauty hacks Time saving products, I use some products more multiple uses If yes, are there any beauty hacks that you use regularly? N/A Do you think there’s anything missing in the current make up market? Shade range Better ingredients I don’t like to use products with a lot of chemicals in it Do you have different make up for nights out than from your everyday make up look – if so what are the main differences between these? More eyeshadow and mascara

Interviews – Sue Alderson aged 44 What are your staple make up products that you use daily? Foundation Elizabeth Arden Toasty Beige Mascara Lipstick What brands do you use most regularly? Estee Lauder No7 Urban Decay L’Oréal How long would you say you spend on a regular daily make up look? 15 minutes What do you look for when purchasing a make up product? Look for product placement Not influenced by outside factors Are you interested in beauty hacks, and time saving beauty products? No not really If yes, are there any beauty hacks that you use regularly? N/A Do you think there’s anything missing in the current make up market? No Do you have different make up for nights out than from your everyday make up look – if so what are the main differences between these?

More dramatic eyeshadow FOLLOW UP INTERVIEW Chelsea Valentine Aged 22 The first product I would like your opinion on, is an eyeshadow pallet that is made to suit your eye colour, so the idea is based around what shades will bring out your eye colour – this will include a layer for a more daytime look and one for a more glam look: I think this would be a good idea because when I do my make up sometimes I feel there are certain shadow colours that don’t suit me. It would be a quick way to enhance your eye colour without having to research with shades work best. Although, the problem may be the customer may not like the colour that is recommended for there eye, therefore not buying the product. It would be good to have tutorials to go with this; so different looks can be created using the same palette. Another idea is a mascara wand, that has a mascara wand one end, and the other end consists of a repair serum that lengthens and protects your eyelashes, whilst also being used to take off your make up. That sounds like a really unique product, which will save a lot of time whilst having multiple benefits. I would worry that the wand would get dirty quickly with the excess mascara that you take off. However a cleaning product to go with it could be useful. It would need to have the quality of other popular mascaras to stand out in the market because I would rather have quality than two in one products. And the final idea is a setting spray that is prominently made with an SPF formula, to protect the skin, whilst also keeping the make up in place for long wear. That sounds like a beneficial 2 in 1 product that wouldn’t compromise quality but you could make it scented as I am more likely to buy a product if it also smells nice for example Mac prep and prime now do a range of scents, therefore would need to keep up with these market trends. I wouldn’t want to pay an increase in price due to the SPF formula though. Out of these products which of these would you be most likely to purchase? The eye shadow palette FOLLOW UP INTERVIEW The first product I would like your opinion on, is an eyeshadow pallet that is made to suit your eye colour, so the idea is based around what shades will bring out your eye colour – this will include a layer for a more daytime look and one for a more glam look: I think it’s okay, but what if you’re a certain colour, my eye’s aren’t green or hazel and are more of a olive-green-grey, therefore the palette might not benefit me as I wouldn’t be sure what to go for and really wouldn’t be inclined to go for the idea. Another idea is a mascara wand, that has a mascara wand one end, and the other end consists of a repair serum that lengthens and protects your eyelashes, whilst also being used to take off your make up. I think that’s a good idea – it’s getting two products for the price of one and would be really useful to help remove makeup, as long as it was able to be cleaned this would be a good idea. And the final idea is a setting spray that is prominently made with an SPF formula, to protect the skin, whilst also keeping the make up in place for long wear. This would be a good idea, I think it’s important to keep up SPF care when focusing on skin care and make-up. A lot of make-up does already have

SPF in it therefore it might not be necessary, also spraying SPF might not be the best idea to get a full coverage on your face as you can’t track and spraying all over loads would be a waste of product. Out of these products which of these would you be most likely to purchase? The Mascara wand. FOLLOW UP INTERVIEW GRACE AGED 16 Alice: The first NPD idea is a setting spray with SPF in, what do you think? Grace: Isn’t that already a thing? Alice: Primer with SPF is but setting spray is available but only in the high end beauty market. Grace: oh, well if it were to be drug store and affordable that is quite a good idea, I think SPF is a lot more important than we think and if it can be incorporated into a good setting spray that would be helpful. Alice: Is that something you would be interested in then? Grace: I would as long as the actual setting spray itself is still effective. Alice: Okay so the next idea is a double ended mascara, one side an actual lengthening mascara and then the other side is a wand that removes the mascara by cleansing. Grace: That’s so cool! I always hate rubbing at my lashes to get mascara off because I feel like I pull a lot of lashes out so anything that would help the process would be great, would it actually work? Alice: The mascara in the one side will have specific fibres that will work with the specific remover, it would have to be that mascara it removes it wouldn’t work for any mascara. Grace: Oh, that makes sense, yes I really like that one it would be so convenient. Alice: Great, so the last one is an eye shadow palette with two layers that you can lift up, one day time and then one night time. Grace: I like that one as well, it seems rally handy for traveling to have it just in one palette rather than bringing multiple products, the pigment of the shadows would have to be really good though because drug store palette are so good at the moment with brands like make up revolution who are so cheap but amazingly pigmented. Alice: That is definitely something that we would have to focus on, so you like it? Grace: Yes I do, it’s good for people just starting out in make up as well like me to help them out. Alice: Out of the three ideas which is your favourite? Grace: I would say the double ended mascara if you could get it to work it would be so helpful and good for the lashes. Alice: Okay great thank you Grace. FOCUS GROUP TRANSCRIPT Hollie: So we have started recording just to let you know that, and you have signed an ethics clause to validate this. So firstly, what are your staple beauty products at the moment? Participant 1: mainly mascara and eyebrow stuff. Interviewer 1: what brands do you use? Participant 1: um, L’Oreal, and ultra brand – from back home (America)

Participant 2: I use Bare Minerals, Urban Decay, just a variety of stuff pretty much. Participant 3: I focus on foundation, eyebrows, bronzer is important to me, highlighter; I use a variety, but mainly Rimmel, L’Oreal, Maybeline and then so more high-end things as well. However, I tend to wear them on a daily basis but it does change. Participant 4: I would say my most important things are probably foundation and concealer; I always like to wear eyeliner as well like liquid eyeliner – I use a Soap and Glory one which I have used for ages. I always use lipgloss, or something really shears on my lips, I’ve got a Dolce and Gabbana one that I always use and that pretty much it. Participant 5: I’d probably say like concealer, I use the collection one and mascara I use the Maybeline one, but sometimes it changes. I would say those are the 2 main things. Summer: Regarding beauty hacks, which ones do you use more often, if any? Participant 5: I don’t think I use any, is there an example of one? Hannah: so you could do like tape, to make your eyeliner winged and have a clear wing. Candice: the only one I use is tape to get a winged eye if I want to do that, but I don’t really use any other than that. Hollie: would baking count as a hack? Summer: yeah I would say so. Participant 4: I feel like contouring and baking would count. Summer: or is there any products that you use for more than one thing like a highlighter as you also use as an eyeshadow? Participant 4: I use highlighter in the corner of my eyes. Candice: yeah, same. Participant 4: and sometimes eyeshadow for filling in eyebrows, and I think I’ve used bronzer for my eyes before as well. Participant 2: I have a blend sponge that I use for my eyebrows, and I use it for under my eyes when I want to make my eyeliner a little more messy below. Hannah: So we asked you to all bring in your make up bags, can you talk us through it and explain why you use those products, if you haven’t got your make up bag can you just talk us through what you use daily? Participant 1: on a daily basis I pretty much just use mascara and eyebrow stuff, that’s basically it. Participant 2: I use a Tarte foundation that’s clay based, I use that mostly, but either I do all my make up or I don’t do any of my make up – so its either way. I try to match my lips and my eyeshadow with what color I’m wearing mostly. Hollie: Do you focus on skin care mostly? Participant 2: I think both, I think that’s its important to use good products on your face, so I think it can help your face or your acne if you are using the right foundation that’s not oil base, but I wouldn’t say it’s a medication for it. Participant 3: I use a foundation that is way to dark for me but I do fake tan quite a lot, this is like the best eyebrow product I’ve used its from NYX, it’s a really natural product and it really suits my hair, and it’s like gel so it’s really natural. I’ve got a couple of brushes I use, I use this powder for baking, I don’t do that every day, I just use it as a powder but if I’m going out I use it for baking. Participant 4: what’s it called? Participant 3: um I’m not sure I’ve had it such a long time. Participant 3: Concealer, that’s probably one of the most important parts of my make up, as it can brighten up a whole look. I use lipstick I got the

other day, this ones a Huda one and is really good. I use a primer, I don’t really know if primer works but I use it anyway, this is just a Rimmel one, its quite cheap. I’ve got some eyelashes in here, I don’t wear them a lot but when I go clubbing I do so they’re really important. I’ve got a mascara, it’s a Rimmel one, I don’t really buy expensive mascaras because I use quite a lot of it, I also use a Rimmel eyeliner, recommended by Hollie. I’ve got an eyebrow brush, and then I have the Modern Renaissance pallet, which is really good for everyday looks and for going out looks. I use bronzer and highlighter as well. Summer: do you prefer having a pallete that you can be used day and night, rather than having a separate one for day and night? Participant 3: Yeah I think so, these ones got really natural shades, which I am wearing now, but then you can also really add it to night. I like a pallet that is really versatile, rather than having two separate ones. Participant 4: So for everyday, I’ve got quite a lot in here. I use either this Maybeline mascara, or this Too Faced better than sex one. Summer: I use them ones together too! Participant 4: do you actually?! Summer: yeah, they’re my mascara go too’s Participant 4: That’s crazy! So for concealer, I use this L’Oreal one, or I have another one but it’s a bit dark for me so I don’t use it very often. These are like my two go to lip-glosses, I got this one from Milan, and this shear Dolce and Gabbbana one which is in a lipstick form. I used this Tom Ford palette – which is kind of bad because it was really expensive but I used it everyday. I use it for eyeshadow, blusher and highlight. Hollie: So, do you prefer pallete which have a dual use to it, so like in that pallet you have cheek, stuff for eyes and stuff that you could use for eyebrows? Participant 4: Yeah, I think its better if it’s all together in one pallet because obviously if I didn’t use the blush it would be pretty pointless, but because I use them all nearly everyday its easier to have it in one rather than having to go from one product to another. I’ve got the holla bronzer, the Laura Mercier translucent powder, and this Urban decay setting spray that I have only recently brought but I use everyday. Sometimes, I use this Morphe pallet, and I use a shade from this for my eyebrows, if I have run out of eyebrow product and that’s pretty much it. Participant 5: I use this holla bronzer everyday, I use this cheap powder for setting make up and it lasts for ages as I go through powder really quickly. I use the maybeline mascara too, I either wont wear foundation or I will wear the Estee Lauder double wear, I have this Milk product for eyes, its really pigmented, its really easy to blend, its like a liquid/cream eyeshadow, its really good. I use this Sleek highlighting pallete, and I use this Milk face gloss, which I only use sometimes, it can be used on your eye or your lips, I think it can be used as a highlight as well, so that’s quite good. I have the collection concealers in two shades, I have the lighter one for under my eyes and then a darker shade for all over – so yeah that’s about it. Summer: I use Mac prep and prime for primer, and then I use Too Faced bron this way on an everyday basis foundation but if I’m going out I’ll use the double wear because its longer lasting. I use the Anastasia Beverley Hills contour kit, vut I don’t use the baking shades I only use the darker contouring shades. I use either the Fenty beauty concealer stick to go along my cotour or I use the collection lasting perfection one under my eyes because it’s more creamy. I use the Too Faced blusher, which smells really good, and the Estee Lauder golden Goddess bronzer, which is my go to. I use diprow to fill in my eyebrows, and then I’ll either use the Naked heat pallet or the Huda beauty desert dusk pallet for my eyes, I probably use this one more at night because of the glitter shades in it, and they are more pigmented than the naked heat one. I use the Too faced and Maybeline mascaras, for highlight I use the Fenty beauty one, and then I use this little spehora pencil that you can highlight under your eyebrows or in the corner of your eyes. I set with the all nighter urban decay spray, and then my go to lipstick is the Charlotte Tilbury pillow talk lipstick with the matching lipliner, but if I have sore lips I use the burts bee lip balm.

Hannah: Can any of you think of any new beauty products that are missing from the market like if you wish they did something that isn’t currently out? Participant 4: I think something that’s really refreshing underneath your eyes, like maybe a concealer that is really cold. Participant 2: I think if you played with temperature more that would be really nice, because I have face wash that gets warm when I use it, but that would be interesting if that were my foundation or something. Candice: My biggest thing is there are lipsticks that stay on all night, but on nights out I feel my lipstick is always coming off when I’m drinking and I hate it, so I just tend to not wear it on nights out, so if there was more of a variety of lipsticks that are longer lasting. Participant 2: yeah, I would add to that, because the matte lipsticks stay on really nicely, and doesn’t get anywhere but it dries my lips out so much that I feel like I’m either putting more on, or chaptsick over it, so if they had a matte look that doesn’t like dry out your lips. Participant 3: maybe something like you know you can get like a matte coat on a nail vanish, maybe something like that or a primer or something that will keep it on for longer, or matify it if you want matte lips one day. Summer: do you think sin care is important in your beauty regime, because obviously we’ve focused on make up, but skin care wise what does everyone use? Candice: I think skin care is really important I do it every morning and every night because I mean if your skins not good underneath your foundation it doesn’t go on as well. Hollie: I think SPF is really important as well, especially because I am really pale I have to think about it, but also I have started to use anti-ageing like Mario badescu. Summer: when did you start using that? Hollie: just after my 23rd birthday and I found a gray hair I thought I better start using anti ageing. Summer: does the term anti ageing put you off buying products? Participant 5: I wouldn’t use anti-ageing, because I think its got different things in, and I wouldn’t want to put that on my skin now so that would really put me off. Participant 2: I don’t think it’s ever too early to start preparing for the future because we are all going to age. I think cleaning your face is more important than putting make up on though, but I agree with the SPF, I try ro find foundation that already has it in it because there is a lot of sun screens that are super oily that I don’t want to put on. Hollie; would you be interested in a face cream that is more an SPF, or a primer that is SPF driven that doesn’t make your face oily? Summer: Because if you’re not wearing a foundation with SPF in does you put anything else on? Participant 2: I usually wear a hat. Participant 3: I don’t really think about it to be honest, I know its really bad, unless it’s summer when I would put sun cream on I don’t really think about it day to day. So I think it’s good if a foundation has an SPF in, because you don’t have to think about it you just use it. Participant 2: Even when it’s cloudy you are more exposed than when it’s direct sun, which a lot of people don’t think about it. Summer: thank you for your time, that’s all our questions.

ETHICS CLAUSES

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Seventeen Logo, Boots.com. (2018). Seventeen - Boots. [online] Available at: http:// www.boots.com/seventeen C.Y.O Logo, Cyocosmetics.com. (2018). CYO Cosmetics | Create, Colour, Call it your Own | Makeup. [online] Available at: https://www.cyocosmetics.com/uk BarryM Logo, Barrym.com. (2018). Barry M - The Barry M Story. [online] Available at: https://www.barrym.com/the-barry-m-story Revolution Logo, Bubblebox.se. (2018). MAKEUP REVOLUTION. [online] Available at: https://www.bubblebox.se/en/artiklar/make-up/makeup-brands/makeup-revolution/ index.html Sleek Logo, Sleek Makeup. (2018). Sleek MakeUP | Makeup Products, Make Up Sets & Accessories. [online] Available at: http://www.sleekmakeup.com/uk Nyx Logo, Nyxcosmetics.co.uk. (2018). NYX Professional Makeup | Makeup & Beauty Products. [online] Available at: https://www.nyxcosmetics.co.uk Covergirl Logo, Covergirl.com. (2018). [online] Available at: https://www.covergirl.com/ en_us/ Bourjous Logo, Bourjois. (2018). Bourjois - Home. [online] Available at: http://www. bourjois.co.uk Maybelline Logo, Maybelline.com. (2018). Makeup Products, Makeup Tips and Fashion Trends - Maybelline New YorK. [online] Available at: https://www.maybelline.com Rimmellondon.com. (2018). Rimmel London UK. [online] Available at: https://www. rimmellondon.com/en_gb/ Kiko Logo, Kikocosmetics.com. (2018). KIKO MILANO: Online Shop di Cosmetici, Smalti, Trucco Occhi e Creme per il Viso e il Corpo.. [online] Available at: https://www. kikocosmetics.com/it-it/ Maxfactor Logo, Maxfactor.com. (2018). Make Up Products | Home | Max Factor. [online] Available at: https://www.maxfactor.com/uk/ Revlon Logo, Revlon. (2018). Beauty Products: Makeup, Fragrances, Hair Color, Nails, Beauty Tools. [online] Available at: http://www.revlon.com

L’oreal Logo, Loreal-paris.co.uk. (2018). Hair, Skin, Makeup and Men’s beauty products | L’Oréal Paris. [online] Available at: http://www.loreal-paris.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCAiArOnUBRBJEiwAX0rG_UDQZvKFcADv9TeP1ZDtnt9LM6wNjoOgNtCnvKfmNAn0eJRjYROHZhoCJ1AQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMDGvuHB0NkCFQsx0wodIUcDWQ No7 Logo, Boots.com. (2018). make-up | No7 - Boots. [online] Available at: http:// www.boots.com/no7/no7-make-up Bodyshop Logo, Thebodyshop.com. (2018). Cruelty-Free Skincare & Beauty Products | The Body Shop. [online] Available at: https://www.thebodyshop.com/en-gb/ Clinique Logo, Clinique. (2018). Makeup | Clinique. [online] Available at: https://www. clinique.co.uk/products/16817/all/makeup?cm_sp=gnav-_-makeup-_-view%20all&gclid=CjwKCAiArOnUBRBJEiwAX0rG_Rn4o-elGBcTuiExYz1KgyWvqhWodjBYaLwybxBXUwN9X3eHraYRGRoCg1oQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CITQ1-nD0NkCFYoe0wodEtAIFw Lancome Logo, Lancome.co.uk. (2018). Lancôme | Make Up, Fragrance, Beauty Tips & Skin Care. [online] Available at: https://www.lancome.co.uk Urban Decay Logo, Urbandecay.co.uk. (2018). Urban Decay UK | Makeup For Eyes, Lips, Face & Body. [online] Available at: https://www.urbandecay.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCAiArOnUBRBJEiwAX0rG_SUskKS60GtjpcYvB7745UaXALreMXmnjx2S2xHWHwgdMfROjNRQtRoCHAMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CO-c0qLE0NkCFaEC0wodeoYC5w Toofaced Logo, Toofaced.com. (2018). Too Faced: Makeup, Cosmetics & Beauty Products Online - Too Faced. [online] Available at: https://www.toofaced.com MAC Logo, MAC Cosmetics - Official Site. (2018). MPP custom - bestsellers. [online] Available at: https://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/bestsellers?gclid=CjwKCAiArOnUBRBJEiwAX0rG_VJxBBbCeXca9B5cjdHTQTYSxWy6r9FkDqYnVjYdyfTD8n44SHX9_RoCnL8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=COGS4eXE0NkCFc4WGwodHn8BAA Smashbox Logo, Smashbox. (2018). Smashbox. [online] Available at: https://www. smashbox.co.uk Benefit Logo, Benefitcosmetics.com. (2018). Benefit Cosmetics > Official Site and Online Store | Benefit Cosmetics. [online] Available at: https://www.benefitcosmetics.

Burtsbees Logo, Burt’s Bees UK. (2018). Burt’s Bees UK. [online] Available at: https://www.burtsbees.co.uk Sephora Logo, Sephora.com. (2018). Cosmetics, Beauty Products, Fragrances & Tools | Sephora. [online] Available at: https://www.sephora.com Charlotte Tilbury Logo, Charlottetilbury.com. (2018). Official Site UK: Makeup, Skin Care & Beauty | Charlotte Tilbury. [online] Available at: http://www.charlottetilbury. com/uk/?nst=0&gclid=CjwKCAiArOnUBRBJEiwAX0rG_ZqtRxEguWBmYJ6cgRrSR5WUvaLltQx4EdIfO6ssxEXLz8r4QQIsGRoCFwkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Laura Mercier Logo, Lauramercier.com. (2018). Laura Mercier Cosmetics. [online] Available at: https://www.lauramercier.com Bareminerals Logo, Bareminerals.co.uk. (2018). Shop the official website | Mineral Foundation & Makeup | bareMinerals UK. [online] Available at: https://www.bareminerals.co.uk Real Techniques Logo, Realtechniques.com.sg. (2018). . | Real Techniques. [online] Available at: http://realtechniques.com.sg Stowaway Logo, Stowaway Cosmetics. (2018). Stowaway Cosmetics | Travel Sized Makeup Right-Sized For Mobile Life. [online] Available at: https://stowawaycosmetics.com Nars Logo, Narscosmetics.co.uk. (2018). NARS Cosmetics | The Official UK Store. [online] Available at: https://narscosmetics.co.uk/on/demandware.store/SitesUK-Site/en_GB/Home-Show?gclid=CjwKCAiArOnUBRBJEiwAX0rG_Zxzp98cli0K-l4zkhveCUTFHnK2FUikrofSUyI2lsz6hsN3zMXFOBoCUpwQAvD_BwE&cm_ mmc=SEM-_-Google-_-NRI_G_GBR_TM_EXACT_TM-_-nars%20makeup MUA Logo, Muastore.co.uk. (2018). MUA Store | MUA Make up Academy. [online] Available at: https://www.muastore.co.uk Morphe Logo, Morphe US. (2018). Morphe Cosmetics . Brushes . Brush Sets. [online] Available at: https://www.morphebrushes.com Colourpop Logo, Colourpop.com. (2018). ColourPop | FREE shipping on orders of $30 or more within US. [online] Available at: https://colourpop.com Models Own Logo, Boots.com. (2018). Search Results. [online] Available at: http:// www.boots.com/search/models+own

Tarte Logo, Tartecosmetics.com. (2018). Tarte Cosmetics: Makeup, Skincare & Beauty Products. [online] Available at: https://tartecosmetics.com/EU/en_GB/ home Glossier Logo, Glossier.com. (2018). Glossier | Skincare & Beauty Products Inspired by Real Life. [online] Available at: https://www.glossier.com Lush Logo, Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics UK. (2018). Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics UK. [online] Available at: https://uk.lush.com Juice Beauty Logo, Juicebeauty.com. (2018). Juice Beauty | The Purest Organic Skin Care Products, Organic Beauty Products & Organic Cosmetics. [online] Available at: https://www.juicebeauty.com Josie Maran Logo, Josie Maran Cosmetics. (2018). Argan Oil & Natural Skincare and Cosmetics Products by Josie Maran. [online] Available at: https://www.josiemarancosmetics.com Itcostmetics Logo, Itcosmetics.co.uk. (2018). IT Cosmetics UK | Makeup, Skincare & Brushes For An Ultimate Beauty Look!. [online] Available at: https://www. itcosmetics.co.uk Clarins Logo, Clarins.co.uk. (2018). Clarins: Beauty Products, Cosmetics, Makeup, Body Care. [online] Available at: http://www.clarins.co.uk La Mer Logo, La Mer Europe. (2018). Homepage Collection. [online] Available at: http://www.lamer.eu Glam Glow Logo, GLAMGLOW. (2018). Homepage. [online] Available at: https:// www.glamglow.co.uk Lash Food Logo, Lashfood.com. (2018). LASHFOOD: LASHFOOD: Growing & strengthen your eyelashes and eyebrows. [online] Available at: https://lashfood. com Elf Logo, Elfcosmetics.com. (2018). Makeup | Popular & Best Selling Makeup | e.l.f. Cosmetics-Cruelty Free. [online] Available at: https://www.elfcosmetics.com/ best-sellers/ Milk Logo, Milkmakeup.com. (2018). Milk Makeup | Live Your Look. [online] Available at: https://www.milkmakeup.com

W7 Logo, Cosmetics, W. (2018). W7 Make Up - Official Site. [online] W7 Cosmetics. Available at: https://www.w7cosmetics.co.uk

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