fm.05.2018

EX P ISS AND UE ED

SCIFI SPECIAL

FineScale.com

May 2018

GOING GALACTIC Here’s how to light a Viper Detail the Falcon with PE

+

AND MORE! Space Marine camo LEDs for Ma.K Flieg Paint a Bird-of-Prey Spock metal mods

Make a preproduction F-14 p. 44 Detail a Korean War Pershing p. 50 Finish a Thunderbolt — fast p. 56

BONUS ONLINE CONTENT CODE PAGE 3 Vol. 35 • Issue 5

Out of This World Modeling

Adventures in

OTHER 1 6 WORLDS FUN

PROJ

ECTS!

In the all-new book, Out of This World Modeling, FineScale Modeler’s Aaron Skinner and other modeling experts explore the popular genres of science iction and fantasy. The book features detailed how-to instructions for building iconic igures, ships, and vehicles from pop culture, including “Batman,” “Star Wars,” Star Trek,” anime (Gundam), and more!

You’ll learn techniques for painting and weathering, airbrushing, scratchbuilding, lighting, and other effects.

Whether you’re new to scale modeling, an experienced modeler, or somewhere in between, there are a variety of projects for every skill level.

16

exciting projects from the worlds of science fiction and fantasy comics, film, and TV

Edited by Aaron Skinner

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CONTENTS

ONLINE CONTENT CODE: FSM1805

May 2018 /// Vol. 36 /// No. 5

Enter this code at www.FineScale.com/code to gain access to web-exclusive content

64

FEATURES

KIT REVIEWS

16 Form & Figure

64 Tamiya Bf 109G-6

Convert a metal Spock igure JOE HUDSON

66 Panda M1 Abrams

18 Detail the Millennium Falcon Turn Bandai’s 1/72 scale kit into a beautiful hunk of junk AARON SKINNER

16

23 Paint a Klingon Bird-of-Prey Contrasting colors, deep weathering JAY LAVERTY

68 HobbyBoss USS Alaska

26 Use decals for camo

69 Airfix Me 262A-1A

Too complicated to paint? Do decals!

STEVE MCNAUGHTON

28 Light up a Fly Shuling parts and adding LEDs ALFONSO PEREIRA

67 Wingnut Wings Jeannin Stahltaube

28

70 Kitty Hawk AH-6J/MH-6J Little Bird

32 Fire up a Viper Lights for a Battlestar Galactica ighter AARON SKINNER

IN EVERY ISSUE

44 Build a brand-new Tomcat

5 Editor’s Page

Make it a preproduction F-14 DARREN ROBERTS

7 Scale Talk

50 This Pershing can take a hit Build, detail, and weather an M26 JOHN MAHER

44

10 New Products

56 Finish a Thunderbolt in a flash Play checkers with Tamiya’s P-47D FRANK CUDEN

38 Reader Gallery

60 Airbrushing & Finishing

62 Reader Tips

Weather a World War I tank AARON SKINNER

63 Questions & Answers

74 Final Details At WonderFest, science iction is real MARK HEMBREE

50

72 Modeler’s Marketplace

FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, Wis. 53187.

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EDITOR’S PAGE

By Mark Savage

Sizzling sci-fi goes mainstream

T

hink science iction isn’t hot enough, or mainstream enough, to command our

ting their start with such kits, too.

We also see more and more sci-i models at the IPMS/USA Nationals, cover? and at Louisville, Ky.’s WonderFest Consider this: Of the 20 each June, we ind the most active top-grossing movies of all time, sci-i group of modelers (of all ages) that or fantasy titles hold 14 spots — 15 if we see at any show each year. you count Minions.

So, in this expanded Avatar is at the top, but issue, our Aaron Skinner Star Wars: big franchise ilms, like Star leads you into the sci-i The Force Wars and Marvel Comics’ world, detailing Bandai’s Awakens superhero licks, are always Millennium Falcon with is No. 3 big hits. For instance, Star photo-etch, and lighting a after Wars: he Force Awakens is Viper from Battlestar grossing No. 3 after grossing $2 Gallactica with LEDs. $2 billion billion (that’s with a b).

Joe Hudson shows how to (that’s he Avengers is No. 5 at improve a Spock igure; with a b.) $1.5 billion.

Alfonso Pereira explains how I could go on, but you to light a vintage Ma.K kit get the gist. Model manwith LEDs; Jay Laverty delves ufacturers do, too. hey’ve been into painting a Klingon Bird-of-Prey; pumping out more sci-i subjects, and Steve McNaughton demonstrates including Revell’s Star Wars kits and how decals create cool camo on a now Moebius’ Wonder Woman from Colonial Marine from Aliens.

Batman v Superman.

Not to let our traditional modelers We see more young modelers getlanguish until our July issue, we’ve

Logically, Spock is in Form & Figure, p.16

included a special how-to from Darren Roberts on building a preproduction F-14 Tomcat, plus John Maher’s piece on a Pershing tank, and longtime contributor Frank Cuden’s build of a snazzy P-47 Jug! From sci-i to jets, tanks, and prop planes, we’ve got you covered in our expanded May issue.

editor@FineScale.com

Off the sprue: Who’s your favorite sci-fi character?

There is nothing wrong with your magazine. Do not attempt to adjust the pictures. We are controlling transmission of these images …

Editor Mark Savage msavage@Kalmbach.com

Senior Editor Aaron Skinner askinner@FineScale.com

Associate Editor Mark Hembree mhembree@FineScale.com

Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash enash@FineScale.com

Editorial Associate Monica Freitag mfreitag@FineScale.com

I like Marvin the Martian because he’s funny. Well, maybe I could lump R2-D2 in there too, and now BB-8. Don’t care for the scary creatures and evil ones. I see enough of them in everyday life on the news!

It’s a tie between Jyn Erso in Rogue One, a tough, no-nonsense fighter who accepts her role in history and inspires a rebellion, and Judge Dredd, a comicbook antihero delivering the law in a deeply dystopian future.

For true cool, it’s hard to beat Michael Rennie as Klaatu in The Day the Earth Stood Still. As a superior being, his message to Earth is, “Be nice or else.” Klaatu barada nikto!

Andrew, the robotturned-human played by the late Robin Williams in Bicentennial Man. He’s curious and kind and bad at telling jokes — just like a real person!

I like Ellen Ripley (played

by Sigourney Weaver) in Aliens. Strong, no-nonsense, and can handle a flame unit (and saves the cat!). What’s not to like?

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6 FineScale Modeler May 2018

SCALE TALK Your voice in FSM

A model worthy of praise I am the historian of the USS Kirk Association, and I was the ship’s chief engineer during the evacuation of Vietnam back in 1975. he model of our good ship, created by Steve Dunn for the February issue, is magniicent! I had the privilege of examining it in detail during its construction, and also when it was inished and on display in San Diego.

I worked closely with Steve as he crafted this masterpiece, providing him with those small details that only a shipmate would be aware of.

In short, Steve nailed it — we are in his debt.

In the beginning, I was hoping Steve would depict our ship in all her hard-working glory — warts and all! But he decided to go with inishing it in showroom condition. I now agree with him, as the result is spectacular.

We went through a lot during those intense days. Of the 15 helicopters that had landed one at a time on our small light deck, 12 were dragged across the surface and thrown over the side, scraping and marring all the way.

After days of nonstop helicopter traic, and countless boats of all sizes bashing and banging against our hull — not to mention the hundreds of men, women, children, and babies scattered throughout our topsides — we were, frankly, a bit shabby.

So while I pressed Steve to depict us as we actually were, I now agree that the pristine USS Kirk is a real beauty.

As her crewmen, we loved that ship. We will always consider ourselves honored and privileged to be USS Kirk shipmates!

Above is a painting of our ship, created by the famed nautical artist Richard DeRosset. I worked with Richard in much the same way that I worked with Steve.

Richard took the opposite tack and painted us in our weathered, well-used condition. In fact, I had to ask Richard to tone down the streaks and stains on our hull!

It was my distinct privilege to work with both Steve and Richard while they crafted their works of art.

– Hugh J. Doyle, Cmdr., U.S. Navy (ret.)

Middletown, R.I.

P.S.: he real heroes during all those events were the Vietnamese refugees who risked everything in their quest for freedom.

What they endured to save their families was an incredible story. I am a huge fan of

those wonderful people. he U.S. Navy made an oicial documentary about USS Kirk’s involvement in those historic operations, called “he Lucky Few.” PBS also produced a documentary for its “American Experience” series back in 2015. It is called “Last Days in Vietnam.” It prominently features the USS Kirk, and was one of the ive inalists for an Oscar at the Academy Awards.

Check them out!

Verse 72 hree Scales for the Rivet-kings, counting every screw.

Seven for Diorama-lords, in basements all alone.

Nine for Resin Men, doomed to super glue.

One for the True Scale, on its plastic throne.

Building every Model in one over seven-two.

One Scale to stash them all — other scales: forswear them!

One Scale kitbash them all, and easily compare them.

Building every Model in one over seven-two.

– John Hoffmann (the self-proclaimed “bad boy” of scale modeling poetry) Frederick, Md.

Planting the modeling seed About 10 years ago, I sat down with my then 9-year-old grandson and, together, we built a 1/72 scale F-86.

Since then, his interests have drifted primarily toward computers and online gaming. I igured he didn’t have much further interest in building models. hen, back in late 2016, he told me that he’d purchased a P-51 kit and asked if I’d help him build it. We worked on it as our schedules allowed, usually one afternoon every two or three weeks, and eventually inished it.

One day soon after, in our discussions about aircraft, he told me that his favorite aircraft was the IL-2 Sturmovik, so I purchased the Tamiya 1/48 scale model for Christmas.

After working with him to build it, I have to say it is the best kit I’ve ever worked on as far as it goes.

For Christmas 2017, I gave him a kit of the Polikarpov I-16, planning on helping him as I did with the others.

Modeling has given us a chance to connect in ways we never had before.

It goes to show that when you plant a seed in a child’s mind, you never know what may grow.

– Bryan Mohr Smithton, Ill.

A Marauder in the backyard I have been reading FSM since the irst issue and enjoyed the March 2018 issue. here were articles about some of my favorite airplane models, such as Airix’s Hurricane and Revell’s Fokker Dr.1. But Ron Denning’s Aurora Martin Marauder featured in Final Details knocked it out of the park.

I received my own Aurora Marauder in 1959 for my 10th birthday. It was an impressive kit. It was a tail-sitter, so I glued three or four bolts and nuts in the nose. I www.FineScale.com

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SCALE TALK painted it with Testors enamel.

My Marauder lew many missions over enemy-held land before it was “shot down.” he walk from the front door to the driveway was the bomber’s base where it faced the prevailing winds. Once the heavily laden plane took of, it lew across the channel (actually the side yard) to occupied France (the backyard).

Firecracker bombs were dropped on enemy positions. After a few missions, the plane crashed (the model didn’t ly very well when tossed) into the backyard incinerator. hanks again for another great issue and for reminding me of my Aurora Marauder!

– Chris Davis Cheyenne, Wyo.

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he B-45 Tornado is an aircraft I have seen many times at the National Museum of the United States Air Force in Dayton, Ohio.

I wondered why it was hard to locate in kit form. Now I am pleased that it is inally getting some attention with Valom’s 1/72 scale B-45A release.

However, after reading Paul Boyer’s build review of it in the November 2017 issue, I would be advised to wait for another ofering from the “model gods.”

In the picture, I noticed that the red stripe in the national insignia is not centered in the bar.

I see this as a careless mistake and one that was not mentioned by Paul.

Because I do not want to purchase separate decals, I will wait for another model company to come out with a B-45 Tornado.

– Chuck Romine Etna, Ohio

Looking for New Mexican aircraft In February’s Scale Talk, I noticed several letters regarding what happens to one’s model collection upon one’s demise.

I volunteer at the Cavalcade of Wings, a museum in the Albuquerque, N.M. airport which houses a collection of 1,300 scale models of aircraft that have operated in New Mexico.

We would be happy to talk with anyone about donating aircraft models that we lack or that need replacement. You don’t have to wait for scale immortality; instead of allowing models to sit on overcrowded shelves with nobody looking at them, let 20,000 people per year see them in these showcases. Visit www.albcow.com.

– Mark R. Vaughn Albuquerque, N.M.

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Throwing track In the February issue, I noticed the article, Outit an ACAV, by senior editor Aaron Skinner, which shows him mounting roadwheel halves on the sides of AFV Club’s new M113A1.

Years ago, I saw this on an actual armored personnel carrier in one of my cousin’s pictures.

According to my cousin, who did a tour driving M113 “Flame Tracks,” the M113 could throw a track if turned sharply with

loose tracks. (Track maintenance was a nasty job in the best conditions — better a GI ix.) he road-wheel half was mounted to help keep the track from coming of the top of the road wheels, usually at the lowest point of the track sag.

It goes without saying this was not an approved modiication — just like a full layer of sandbags on the loor.

– Michael Baker Falls Church, Va.

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NEW PRODUCTS Compiled by Monica Freitag & Aaron Skinner

Spotlight

How to make a detailed Discovery

M

oebius’ 1/144 scale kit of the Discovery from 2001: A Space Odyssey produces a 41-inch long model and features a ton of great surface detail on the outside.

If you want an interior check out ParaGraix, www.paragraix.biz. he detail company that specializes in sets for science-iction models

has released a pair of photoetched sets to jazz up the ship.

First, there’s a set for the cockpit and airlock (No. PGX210, $32.95). In addition to the lightdeck, it includes seats, controls, and an entry hallway with door. A window frame replaces the kit windshield. he airlock structure its behind a door that must be cut open on the lower

loor.

All of the parts feature open holes for lighting.

If you want to open the pod-bay doors, he second set (No. PGX211, $43.95) provides the interior with walls,

controls, spacesuits, and the pod platforms. here’s even an option to pose one of them extended through an open hatch. he parts are designed for easy lighting.

AIRCRAFT KITS 1/32 SCALE

Shenyang J-31 Cyrfalcon (AirShow China 2014) from Trumpeter, No. 016666, $35.95.

Stampe S.V.4C France from Azur Frrom, No. FR0025, $20.

Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

IAR-80A from Azur Frrom, No. FR8002, $66.

1/48 SCALE

Breguet 1050 Alizé ALM from Azur Frrom, Hawker Sea Fury FB.11 from Airix, No. A06105, $32.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

Delta Civilian Version - Swedish, TWA, and Mexican Service from Azur Frrom,

No. FR0029, $42. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

No. FR0032, $36.95.

1/72 SCALE

Breguet 1050 Alizé‚1G France from Azur Frrom, No. FR0028, $42.

Mitsubishi F-2A 3SQ 60th Anniversary

Stampe S.V.4B Belgium from Azur Frrom,

from Hasegawa, No. 02261, $52.99.

No. FR0024, $20.

10 FineScale Modeler May 2018

1/35 SCALE

1/72 SCALE

Delta US Passenger and transport plane Over Spain from Azur Frrom, No. FR0033, $36.95.

M31 from Takom, No. 2088, $64.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

Gamma 2E Bomber in China from Azur Frrom, No. FR0034, $49.95.

R.O.C. Army Main battle tank — CM-1 1 (M-48H) Brave Tiger from Takom, No. 2090,

1/144 SCALE

$64.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

M1A2 SEP with mine clearing blade system from FlyHawk, No. FH3301, $40.

FIGURE KITS OTHER SCALE

C-5B Galaxy from Roden, No. 330, $166.99.

ARMOR KITS 1/16 SCALE

CM-11 (M-48H) with ERA Brave Tiger from Takom, No. 2091, $69.95.

Featured product Hail Caesar The Roman Invasion of Britain from Warlord Games, $112.

Imperial Japanese Army Type 94 tankette late production from Takom, No. 1007, $64.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

Get all the cutting tools you need Excel’s Super Deluxe Knife Set (No. 84019).

Packaged in a vinyl case for easy access and convenient storage, the set includes eight handles and 37 assorted blades.

Available at KalmbachHobbyStore.com.

Pike & Shotte Age of Wargamming States 1467-1603: Samurai Starter Army from Warlord Games, $120. www.FineScale.com

11

NEW PRODUCTS Spotlight

Takom tackles tiny tankette terriically

T

he Type 94 tankette was developed in the early 1930s and served with the Imperial Japanese army through combat in China and during the Second Sino-Soviet War. Despite the design’s obsolesence, the 10-foot long vehicle continued to support Japanese infantry

through World War II. A famous photo shows one strapped to the engine deck of a U.S. Marine Corps Sherman. he hull of Takom’s 1/16 scale Type 94 (Kit No. 1006) is the same length as a 1/35 scale Tiger I, so this won’t be a shelf hog. And, with no inte-

rior, it should be a quick build.

Many of the 400 parts go into the suspension; the single-piece plastic springs are a highlight! Takom provides optional individual-link and vinyl tracks. Fine rivets and panel lines mark the major

AIRCRAFT DECALS

components. Other features include a photo-etched exhaust cover, a clear headlight, igure, and decals to mark three tankettes.

1/48 SCALE

1/32 SCALE Vietnam Ace Capt.

Steve Ritchie and Friends from Werner's Wings, No. WW32-01, $14.

Pike & Shotte Age of Wargaming Series 1467-1603: Samurai from Warlord Games, $32.

SHIP KITS

Messerschmitt Me 410 from Hannants/

F-16C 100 Years of Flying Fiends from

Xtradecal, No. X48185, $11.

Werner's Wings, No. 48-261, $14.

1/72 SCALE 1/700 SCALE

KG 51 History from Hannants/Xtradecal, No. X72285, $11.

HMS Prince of Wales 1941-42 from Flyhawk Model, No. FH1117S, $84.99.

Messerschmitt Me 410 from Hannants/ Xtradecal, No. X72286, $11.

RN McDonnell Douglas Phantom FG.1 Stencils from Hannants/Xtradecal, No. X72287, $11.

RAF McDonnell Douglas Phantom FG.1 FGR.2 Stencils Part 1 from Hannants/ Xtradecal, No. X72288, $11.

RAF McDonnell Douglas Phantom FG.1 FGR.2 Stencils Part 2 from Hannants/ Xtradecal, No. X72289, $11.

JMSDF DDH Kaga full hull version from Hasegawa, No. 30047, $74.99.

12 FineScale Modeler May 2018

Royal Air Force McDonnell Douglas FG.1 & FGR.2 Phantoms Pt. 2 from Hannants/

ELECTRONIC MEDIA

Xtradecal, No. X72290, $11.

P-40B/C main wheels with smooth tire from BarracudaCast, No. BR32329, $8.95.

AIRCRAFT DETAILS

1/48 SCALE

1/32 SCALE Modeler's Guide to Aftermarket Aircraft Decals — 1st Edition 2018 from Aero Research, $13.95.

BOOKS Fw 190A-1 thru A-9 F, G exhausts (for Eduard) from BarracudaCast, No. BR48355, $7.95.

Spitire Mk.IX seat with backpad and armor (for Revell) from BarracudaCast, No. BR32336, $7.95.

P-40B/C main wheels with smooth tire (for Airix, Monogram, Trumpeter, Bronco) from BarracudaCast, No. BR48330, $6.95.

1/72 SCALE

Spitire Mk.IX cockpit snapshot upgrade (for Revell) from BarracudaCast, No. BR32339, $15.95.

The Kuban 1943 — The Wehrmacht's last stand in the Caucasus, $24, by

The Battle of Britain 1940 — The Luftwaffe's Eagle Attack, $20, by

Robert Forczyk, soft cover, 96 pages, all black-and-white photos, 978-1-4728-22598. From Osprey Publishing.

Douglas C. Dildy , soft cover, 96 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47282057-0. From Osprey Publishing.

Sagger Anti-Tank Missile vs M60 Main Battle Tank Yom Kippur War 1973,

Arctic Circle 1942 — 44 Gebirgsjüger versus Soviet Sailor,

Spitire late cockpit entry door from BarracudaCast, No. BR72342, $5.95.

Spitire four slot mainwheels 3 pack from Spitire Mk.IX cockpit door with crowbar (for Revell) from BarracudaCast, No. BR32338,

BarracudaCast, No. BR72341, $11.95.

$4.95.

P-40B/C main wheels with smooth tire (for Airix, AMI, Academy and Trumpeter) from BarracudaCast, No. BR72331, $4.95.

$20, by Douglas C. Dildy , soft cover, 96 pages, all black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-2057-0.

From Osprey Publishing.

$20, by David Greentree, soft cover, 80 pages, all blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281979-6. From Osprey Publishing.

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13

NEW PRODUCTS

Rolling Thunder 1965-68 — Johnson's air war over Vietnam, $20,

Malta 1940-42 — The Axis air battle for Mediterranean supremacy, $20, by

Rabaul 1943-44 — Reducing Japan's great island fortress, $20, by Mark

by Richard P. Hallion, soft cover, 96 pages, few color photos, mostly black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-2320-5.

From Osprey Publishing.

Ryan K. Noppen, soft cover, 96 pages, color and black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-14728-2060-0. From Osprey Publishing.

Lardas, soft cover, 96 pages, all black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-2244-4.

From Osprey Publishing.

Savoia-Marchetti S.79 Sparviero bomber units, $23,

by Marco Mattioli, soft cover, 96 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-14728-7883-6. From Osprey Publishing.

PRTL and PRTL GWI Cheetah — Foto File #3 Leopard Series #1, $18, soft cover, 46 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-1947552-04-3. From Sabot Publications.

Dutch Leopard 2A4 — Foto File #4 Leopard Series #2, $18, soft cover, 46 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-1947552-05-0. From Sabot Publications.

M1A2 in Europe 2017 — Warmachines 03 Photo Reference, $30, by , soft cover, 82 pages, all color color photos, ISBN: 978-1947552-05-0. From Sabot Publications.

T-90 Standard Tank — The First tank of New Russia, $18, by Steven J. Zaloga, soft cover, 48 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-1822-5.

From Osprey Publishing.

Operation Market Garden 1944 (3) — The British XXX Corps Missions, $24,

by Ken Ford, soft cover, 96 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47282012-9. From Osprey Publishing.

AirKraft Modelling Guide No. 1 — Fighters: 07 Attack Aircraft of the Vietnam War, $19.99, soft cover, 94 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-099554608-0. From Mega Hobby.

RAF-1918-2018, $14, by Julian Hale, soft cover, 94 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-0-99554608-0.

From Osprey Publishing.

Testbeds, Motherships & Parasites — Astonishing Aircraft from the Golden Age of Flight Test, $32.95, by Frederick A. Johnsen, soft cover, 203 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-158007241-0. From Specialty Press.

Get your essential tools here!

Are you running out of No. 11 hobby blades? Do your photo-etch scissors or sprue cutters need to be replaced? You know you can always use more sanding sticks. If any of these apply, check out the variety of modeling tools at the Kalmbach HobbyStore. Go to www.kalmbachhobbystore. com and browse our selection of essential tools!

14 FineScale Modeler May 2018

AUTO KITS 1/24 SCALE

ZZ Top Eliminator, No. 85-4465, $23.95. From

’80 Jeep Honcho Ice Patrol, No. 85-7224,

Revell.

$22.95. From Revell.

1/25 SCALE ’78 GMC Big Game Country pickup, No. 85-7226, $22.95. From Revell.

1966 Ford Fairlane GT/GTA, No. AMT1091/12, $31.95. From Round 2. ’58 Edsel Pacer, No. AMT1087/12, $31.95.

Toyota 2000GT with ’60s girl igure,

From Round 2.

No. SP366, $64.99. From Hasegawa.

Designed by a Modeler for Scale Modelers Professional Sprue Cutter 2175ET

Easily trim delicate, tightly spaced parts.

Clean, close cuts. No pinching or twisting.

Large, ergonomic grips for greater control.

Purchase at hobby stores worldwide.

Subscribe to our Xuron Blog to be automatically enrolled in frequent product giveaways.

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www.FineScale.com

15

FORM & FIGURE

By Joe Hudson

Converting metal figures It’s not plastic surgery, but this nip and tuck trims years from Spock

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have always been a fan of the original Star Trek, and Spock, played by Leonard Nimoy, was one of my favorite characters. So, when I acquired Andrea Miniatures’ 54mm kit of the movie-era Spock (No. SG-F68), I decided to convert it to represent Spock’s TV self. hen I could place him in a section of the AMT/Ertl 1/32 scale Bridge Set (Kit No. 808).

Many of these techniques can also be used to convert plastic igures, but it’s probably best not to use a Crock-Pot to accelerate drying of 2-part epoxy as I did here. Instead, place the igure near, but not too close to, a lamp.

1 Like a surgeon, I marked the areas to be removed with a Sharpie. The soft metal is easy to carve. I removed the collar first, taking care not to damage Spock’s head. Then, I shaved off sections of the jacket, belt, and buckle.

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2 With the major surgery done, I scraped the back of the blade across the surface of the jacket to level gouges left by the knife.

3 To further smooth, I started with a foam sanding pad. Then, a wire brush in a motor tool at low speed buffed the metal. I finished the process with a small section of a very finegrade Scotch-Brite pad.

4 I spread a little Apoxie Sculpt over the lower torso to level the waist and eliminate the belt.

An old wood paintbrush handle, carved and sanded to a point, works the putty. Dipping it in water prevents putty from sticking.

7 More water on a small brush softened the sculpted folds. To set the putty, I placed the figure on a wooden block in a Crock-Pot and cooked it for 5-10 minutes on low. The wood eases removal of the hot figure from the pot.

10 I removed the excess material with a hobby knife and wire cutters, then refined the shape above the cuff using a knife to thin the legs. As a precaution against slips, I wrapped my thumb with tape.

5 Water on an old paintbrush feathered the edges and blended the putty graft with the body. I use a wet finger to smooth larger areas.

8 Turning Spock around, I applied more putty and sculpted more wrinkles. After again baking the figure in the Crock-Pot, I smoothed the putty with the Scotch-Brite.

11 To plump the cuffs, I spread epoxy putty over the area, then shaped and smoothed it with a paintbrush handle.

6 Using a round brush handle, as well as another sanded flat, I gently sculpted folds in the stillwet putty. Coating the handles with super glue prevents the wood from absorbing water.

9 Original-series uniforms included ankle boots with pants that flare above them. Using dividers, I marked the new cuff line on the figure with a Sharpie.

12 I thought I was finished, but the legs seemed a little too thick. So, it was back under the knife for Spock as I removed more metal, followed by more putty and sculpting.

The logical conclusion To see how Joe painted Spock’s science oicer uniform, go to www.FineScale.com/ OnlineExtras.

Next issue 13

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Apoxie Sculpt repaired the instep of the boots; I drew in wrinkles with a paintbrush handle. I smoothed the putty with water on a brush, then sanded with the Scotch-Brite.

I formed the collar and distinctive seams in front of the shoulders with Apoxie Sculpt. The flat paintbrush handle pushed the putty into the surface; then I cut the seam lines with a hobby knife. FSM

We head to the Eastern Front as Joe shows how to apply shades of khaki on a Soviet soldier.

www.FineScale.com

17

Detail the

Millennium Falcon with metal

Turn Bandai’s 1/72 scale kit into a beautiful hunk of junk

BY AARON SKINNER

L

uke Skywalker and Leia Organa may have been initially dismissive of Han Solo’s modiied freighter, but Star Wars fans love the Millennium Falcon. It’s arguably the superstar in a franchise chock-full of iconic hardware.

Bandai is the latest of many manufacturers to produce kits of the Falcon, including a 1/144 scale ofering of the ship from the 2015 movie Star Wars: The Force Awakens (Kit No. 0202288). The most obvious diference between this version and the Falcon of the original trilogy is the rectangular sensor antenna that replaces the large, round dish ripped of during the Battle of Endor. Smaller additions, including wiring and plumbing, show further modiications made in the intervening decades.

The kit parts feature plenty of detail in the cockpit and gun bays, but I igured it could be improved with a photo-etched (PE) set from Green Strawberry (No. 1616). A second set corrects the kit’s biggest shortcoming: solid plastic screens for the engine vents (No. 1715). After that, building any Star Wars ship comes down to painting and weathering. I used Testors Model Master enamels unless otherwise noted.

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1 Adding PE ain’t like building a kit straight from the box. Without planning, you can cut too much from the plastic parts or miss an important step. I compared the instructions and made note of necessary changes.

4 Cutting close to the part minimizes cleanup, but there‘s always a bit left. I removed nubs with a sanding stick; moving it along the edge, rather than across, limits the pressure and minimizes bending.

7 Each gun position is a single flat part that must be bent to form a tub. The fold lines are engraved.

2 Bandai molded raised controls and instruments on the panels in the cockpit.

Letting the past die, I scraped and shaved away the details with a No.11 blade to make way for PE plates and self-adhesive panels.

5 Super glue binds metal parts. To install the cockpit door, I dabbed the corners with thick adhesive …

8 Gentle finger pressure is often enough to bend scored PE. But for precise application of force, use smooth-jawed pliers; place the edge next to the fold line and smoothly bend the metal.

3 PE is no match for the right tools by your side.

To separate the parts, I pressed a fine chisel through the connections while holding the fret against a hard surface to prevent bending the part.

6 … which gives enough time to adjust the fit of the back wall. Keep debonder nearby to correct misalignments or detach glued fingers.

9 I flowed thin super glue along the gun-bay joins. Squeezing slightly as the glue sets results in seamless gaps.

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After installing equipment panels, I airbrushed the bays with flat gull gray (No. 1730). Keeping the pressure low ensured even coverage without runs.

Before adding PE or stickers to the cockpit, I painted the tub with RLM 66 schwarzgrau (No. 2079). The interior looks black on-screen, but I feared going too far to the dark side would obscure detail.

I sprayed the same color on the PE ceiling and side panels, as well as the cockpit’s rear bulkhead and the gunners’ seats.

www.FineScale.com

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Using a Flex-I-File 4/0 brush, I carefully picked out details in the gun bays with flat black, jet exhaust, and red. I thinned the paint a little so it flowed up to the raised edges of box covers.

Green Strawberry’s panel stickers are beautifully printed, but they need to be cut precisely. I applied them to the parts and gently burnished them with a wooden toothpick, taking care not to tear the paper.

To reproduce the detail in deep recesses, Bandai used two-part inserts. Note the Jagdpanther casemate visible among the greeblies in the left insert.

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The kit is engineered to be pushed together without glue, but I flowed liquid cement into seams to ensure they didn’t separate during assembly.

Choosing to show the Falcon in flight with the translucent blue engine insert, I painted the external grille with the body color mix — 4 parts flat gull gray and 6 parts flat white. Then, I could mask the entire section for painting.

The freighter has just three windows, but each is made up of multiple panes. I masked them by placing a slightly-too-large piece of tape on a pane, burnishing it, and then trimming it to the frame. Thin strips corrected irregularities.

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Before closing up the ship, I painted Han and Rey and glued them to the seats. The kit also includes Finn, Chewie, and BB-8.

With the Falcon assembled, I painted the recesses and heat exhaust fans with schwarzgrau to provide shadows under the light gray body color.

Each heat vent comprises four PE parts: a base ring, a piece with lateral and vertical bars, a ring with just vertical bars that must be aligned with the previous part, and a top ring. I assembled the first three with thin super glue.

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Starting with the center vents, I placed the vents (minus the upper rings) into the recesses and flowed thin super glue around the edges.

A Glue Looper accurately delivers just the right amount of adhesive.

After carefully aligning and attaching all of the vents, I added the upper rings. Two are different, and each must be installed just so.

The extra work is worth it compared with the solid plastic parts they replace.

The final PE part I built (the first in the instructions) was the support for the sensor antenna. It is composed of several parts that must be carefully folded and glued. The Glue Looper was invaluable here.

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I airbrushed the ship with the body color mixed earlier. Spraying sideways over the equipment openings left black in the shadows.

To paint the dark vents, I carefully cut around the corresponding stickers in the kit, then peeled off the surrounding film to use as masks (left).

Tamiya tape protected adjacent areas.

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Bandai’s waterslide decals include all of the freighter’s colored panels.

They fit perfectly but needed a little encouragement to conform to the surface. Heat from a hairdryer softened each marking. Then Tamiya Mark Fit Strong finished the job.

As comprehensive as the decals are, they don’t include any chipping or damage. Using the tip of a No.11 blade, I gently scraped each decal to match images of the filming miniatures. Then, I sealed the finish with a generous layer of Tamiya clear (X-22).

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To highlight the surface detail, I applied Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colors, starting by flowing gray into every panel line and around each raised feature. Once that was dry, I selectively applied black focusing on mechanical areas and vents.

To correct mistakes and blend harsh edges, I dipped a brush in fresh enamel thinner to dissolve the dry accent color. Clean the brush between each use to avoid transferring excess color.

www.FineScale.com

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To replicate battle damage, I started by hand-brushing gunship gray (No. 1723). Photos of the filming miniatures are crucial for getting the damage right, and there are differences between the early version and The Force Awakens ship.

Much of the damage extends beneath the surface, so, I brushed black into the center of the gray areas for 3-D effect.

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Using a fine brush, I applied dots of artist’s oils to panel edges. Black and brown were the predominant colors, but I also used blue and white; the latter was especially effective on darker panels.

With a flat brush slightly damp with clean odorless turpentine, I streaked the oil dots across the surface. On top, the streaks run from the center out; underneath, they run from the outside edges in.

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Before airbrushing the conspicuous exhaust trails from the heat vents, I applied tape. It served more as a guide than a mask as I airbrushed thin schwarzgrau.

For the final step, I applied powdered pastels to damaged areas. Not only does it blend the painted scrapes and holes, it looks like carbon scoring — obviously the Falcon has seen some action. FSM

22 FineScale Modeler May 2018

Paint a Klingon Bird-of-Prey for attack Contrasting color and deep weathering make a fearsome starship /// BY JAY LAVERTY

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n the Star Trek universe, the Klingon Bird-of-Prey served for nearly 100 years, an astonishing testament to its durability and adaptability as a weapons platform.

There were three developments of the Bird-of-Prey: the K’Vort class, B’rel class, and D12 class. One of the most versatile ships available to the Klingon Empire, it served as scout, raider, patrol vessel, and cruiser.

I built the 2010 rerelease of the 1/350 scale AMT/Ertl Bird-ofPrey. The spacecraft was rechristened HMS Bounty when Capt. James Kirk and his crew commandeered it at the end of The Search for Spock. It later appeared in The Voyage Home.

I decided not to stress about which class it was once I realized that the two bridges from the two ilms were completely diferent. It seems the producers were not that concerned about the iner details, either!

www.FineScale.com

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1 Even though I was using Alclad II flat black primer (ALC-309), I was still able to achieve a glossy surface by cranking up the pressure to 40 psi and spraying until the model looked wet. This heavy amount of paint, applied quickly, will level out to produce a glossy finish.

3 I built up tonal variation with progressive layers of the British deep bronze green. Many passes with the airbrush created a seamless transition from dark to light tones.

5 After the red dried overnight, Aqua Gloss (ALC-600) was applied to the top of the panels to protect the vibrant hue from subsequent green layers.

24 FineScale Modeler May 2018

2 I continued to use Alclad II paints, airbrushing British deep bronze green (ALCE050) over the entire model as the base coat. This provides a stark contrast for the lighter greens to come, adding shadows and creating depth.

4 The underside panels, or “feathers,” were painted with a bright red directly over the base green coat. The red’s coverage became thinner closer to the outer edges.

6 Because the Aqua Gloss was only applied to the top of the red panels, the green shades could still penetrate the panel lines, meaning I wouldn’t have to re-create them later. Excess green color would be wiped up next.

7 With the Aqua Gloss protecting the red, the green overspray could not be easier to remove. With some white spirit and a couple of cotton swabs, the striking red returned in a few minutes.

9 The most time-consuming part of the painting process was filling in the feathers on the upper wing. I spent several days shading each panel individually with yellow and brownish greens. It was worth it, though — the result has to be the highlight of the model.

11 Hotmetal sepia (ALC-416) came next, followed by Warpigs Hogwash deep rust (ALCHW-007) and rust streaks and stains (ALCHW-003).

Wanting to show wear on the housings as they opened and closed with the repositioning of the wings, I sprayed airframe aluminum (ALC-119) at an angle across the tops, along the centerline.

8 Six shades of green were used during the painting process, ranging from dark to yellow green. Fun fact: The Klingon word for green is SuDqu’.

10 To weather the radiator baffles, I first primed them black and painted with steel (ALC-112). Next came stainless steel (ALC-115), which created depth. Burnt iron (ALC-121) added a rusted appearance — perfect for a spacecraft with years of travel under its engine belts.

12 To finish weathering, I put tiny bits of rust on some carefully chosen spots, careful not to overdo it and spoil the scale effect. With that, my Bird-of-Prey is ready for attack. cha baH! FSM

www.FineScale.com

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Use decals for camo Too complicated to paint?

Do it with decals!

BY STEVE MCNAUGHTON

Hand-painting camouflage on uniforms is painstaking work, even for the steadiest of hands.

But if you can apply decals, you can apply this camouflage. Eye and tattoo decals from Archer Fine Transfers make life easier, too.

M

eetings of our local modeling club, Cen-Tex Modelers (Killeen, Texas), feature a regular “how-to” segment during which one member shows the others a new technique or tip. One of my presentations discussed making homemade decals.

And when questions arose concerning the best ways to I named the newly converted igure U.S. Colonial Marine replicate complex camoulage schemes, such as the new digiCpl. Jennifer ( Jazz) Hendricks. She’s wearing a standardtal patterns, I suggested it could be done with decals of the issue olive drab T-shirt with Colonial Marine cargo pants. camo pattern in lieu of painting them.

After completing the igure conversion, I primed it and his article shows you how with Halcyon’s 1/12 scale prepped the pants with light blue enamel and Testors Model Class II Power Loader (from the movie Aliens). he kit Master clear gloss lacquer. comes with a igure of Ellen Ripley (Sigourney Weaver) that Looking at pictures of camoulage patterns from just doesn’t look the part. So, I combined the kit’s lower torso, several sources, including the movie, I found a similar camo legs and feet with the upper torso, head, arms, and hands of a pattern online and copied it.

After I reduced the pattern to a suitable scale, I printed it resin igure from Scale Humans.com. (It was an extreme on white decal paper from Micro-Mark. modiication — but that is another story!)

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Apply camo in sections Belt loops are individual pieces.

Outside seam: Do not align with front pattern.

Zipper seam

Used Waldron punchand-die set to knock out styrene “snaps.”

Patch cargo pockets: Each section has its own decal and a different pattern direction.

I copied a swatch of the camo scheme I found online and pasted this sampled image several times to build a bolt of “cloth,” adding a few extra squares just in case.

Apply decal; align pattern with section above.

Apply decal; align pattern with section above. Do not align with front pattern.

ants; Top of pbuckle d n a elt cover be strip or mak elt above b

Zipper seam

attern Align p re a u q s h next

wit

attern Align p re a u q s t ith nex

w

attern Align p re a u q s t x with ne

Align the top and bottom edges of each section to make the camo pattern continuous. The shorter the sections, the easier to cover folds in the pants — but the more sections you’ll need.

Cover the back side as you did the front. Overlap the front and cut the vertical seam where the two would meet on a real pair of pants. Note that the pattern “jumps” at the seams, just as it does on real pants. FSM www.FineScale.com

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Lighting up a Fly Shuffling parts and adding LEDs to a vintage kit

BY ALFONSO PEREIRA

Nitto’s 1/20 scale Fliege offers an astronaut and a fighting suit — but this modeling puts the astronaut inside the fighting suit with lights.

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n the Maschinen Krieger universe, the Panzer Kampf Anzug “Fliege” (or Armored Fighting Suit “Fly”) is a space-based element of the Strahl Democratic Republic in its war against the Independent Mercenary Army for control of a post-apocalyptic Earth. his 1/20 scale kit was originally released by Nitto in the mid-1980s as one of several models in conjunction with the Japanese science-iction series SF3D, but copyright wrangles put it out of production for several years. Eventually, the SF3D line reemerged as Maschinen Krieger (Ma.K), along with new kits from Hasegawa, Wave, and others.

Ma.K kits old and new include more than just the sprue and decals. he Fliege is no exception. he box contains wire for antennas, steel spring for hoses, vinyl joint covers, and a camo card depicting a few paint schemes.

Despite its age, it’s a great model right out of the box. But I wanted to add lighting to the cockpit, a laser weapon, and rocket thrusters to make it truly stand out.

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1 The kit’s packaging has a nice retro-futuristic feel, reflected in the camo card that provides painting instructions.

4 Tube-bending springs prevent kinks in a segment of 3mm brass tubing I used to route the “laser” LED wires through the Fliege’s shoulder.

7 More cutting and sanding on the back of the pilot allows wires from the laser LED to pass through from the shoulder.

2 A full astronaut figure is included, but I used only the head, torso, and helmet to show the figure inside the suit.

5 Prior to gluing the forearm halves together, I covered the inside of each half with aluminum foil to prevent light leakage. Wires are ready to go through the shoulder and into the body.

8 I cut a corresponding opening in the suit’s back so wires could travel to the bottom of the torso.

3 I modified the left forearm to accept a red LED simulating the laser firing. A 3mm brass-tube holder is secured with Apoxie Sculpt.

6 The kit’s gun barrel is not hollow, so I built a replacement with brass tube and styrene bits.

The new barrel slides into the end of the LED holder to carry light to the outside.

9 Arms and legs are assembled and ready for primer; I used the kit’s vinyl joint covers.

www.FineScale.com

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After puttying seams and sanding them smooth, painting them with a silver marker is a great way to see whether they’re gone or more putty work is necessary.

Once the thrusters were assembled, I drilled a hole in their backs to accommodate orange LEDs.

Matching holes were drilled where the engine bells meet the Fliege’s lower back to route the LEDs.

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Strip LEDs illuminate the cockpit.

A quick test of the circuit verifies everything is working properly.

I primed all subassemblies with dark gray.

Randomly applied strips of tape mask this color before spraying light gray to create a “lunar camouflage.”

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I painted a red band on the laser arm as a unit identifier. It contrasts nicely with the dull grayon-gray camouflage.

Using a fine brush, I added chips and scratches to the paint job with black and graphite metallic acrylics.

All subassemblies received a dark acrylic wash to accentuate detail.

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After the wash dries I remove most of it with a wet cotton swab, leaving just enough to emphasize recesses and fine details.

I used a punch-and-die set to cut a small circle of metallic, reflective green paper that I glued to the stalk below the laser gun to simulate an optical targeting sensor.

I thought the kit’s tinted window would diminish the lighted cockpit. So, I used it as a mold to thermoform a clear one from plastic sheet heated with a handheld torch.

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The circuit is simplicity itself: a 9-volt battery, a switch, resistors, and the LEDs.

I used a hobby circuit board to mount the resistors and provide a solid base for the LED wires, switch, and battery connections.

The base is an inverted tuna can and 4mm brass tube. Later, I would prime it and paint it black, adding textured paint to the can.

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LED wires from the laser, the cockpit, and the thrusters are collected inside the body and routed through the brass tube into the base.

No tuna — just a circuit board, wires, battery, and switch.

All the subassemblies are combined and the Fliege is permanently mounted on the base, ready for display. FSM

SIMPLE CIRCUIT

350 ohm resistors

Switch

9v

Laser

Cockpit

Thrusters

www.FineScale.com

31

Festive LEDs boost a Battlestar Galactica fighter

BY AARON SKINNER

Catapulted from the Galactica, Colonial warriors flew Vipers to protect the ragtag fugitive fleet as it fled Cylon tyranny for just 24 episodes before the 1978 TV show was cancelled.

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1 A sanding drum on a motor tool made quick work of eliminating detail on the plastic parts. I refined the surfaces with a sanding stick.

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3 Using a hobby knife and fine square files, I widened the openings to accommodate the film for the instruments that will be mounted on the back of the metal panels.

O

Blanking off the foot well left no room for the pilot’s feet. So, I amputated his legs above the ankles and filed the stumps flush with the styrene plates.

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5 A coat of Tamiya neutral gray revealed that several of the bending perforations needed filling. So, I flowed medium-viscosity super glue along the seams.

ne year after Star Wars, fans craved more. But they would have to wait until 1980 for he Empire Strikes Back. Expensive home video was not in widespread use, making watching the ilm at home diicult.

Into the void swaggered Battlestar Galactica. Created by Glen A. Larson, the series promised Star Wars-style space

The metal parts provide a precise stencil for marking openings to let light through to the instruments and screens.

After cutting each screen along the marked outline, I carefully trimmed them to pass through the openings in the plastic.

adventure on TV. It looks dated and even a bit campy now, but at the time it was cool.

It was also more than a little terrifying for 8-year-old me, especially the premise of humanity being pursued across that universe by soulless robots. (Obviously other people thought the concept compelling enough to reboot BSG in 2003, this time with a more-serious bent.)

For me, the highlight of the original series was always the ships, including the reptilian Galactica and the dish-shaped Cylon Raiders. But best of all were the Colonial Vipers. Sleek and sharp, the ighters packed power in three turbo-boosted engines, and mounted two cannons that usually gave the pilots, known as warriors, an edge over the Cylon menace. www.FineScale.com

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Using a toothpick, I gently pressed the film for the targeting screen against the plate until the clear-parts cement became tacky.

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There are several other openings that lack film instruments, so I filled them with clear-part cement.

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Using a pin vise, I drilled a hole through the center of the wing spar on the intake part. It must be large enough for two wires.

A ¼-inch grinding stone in a motor tool quickly removed remaining engine detail.

What better way could there be for me to mark the show’s 40th anniversary than build and light Moebius’ 1/32 scale Colonial Viper (No. 940)? I did the latter using battery-powered Christmas lights.

To accommodate the pilot’s feet, cutouts in the loor of the cockpit open into the fuselage — and that would allow light from the panel LEDs into the cockpit. I blocked the openings with thin sheet styrene, 4.

Cockpit drill

Setting the screens

To make lighting easy, I used ParaGraix’s photo-etch (PE) detail set (No. PGX175) for Moebius’ Viper. It includes plates for the instrument panel and sides with cutouts for separate screens and instruments.

To make room for the PE panels, I removed detail molded on the tub, 1.

After clipping the panels from the fret and sanding of the connection nubs, I pressed the parts into place in the tub. he side panels bend in a couple of directions along lines marked with holes.

Using the panels as templates I marked the tub for cuts, 2.

To open the holes, I drilled a series of pilot holes about ⅛ inch apart all the way around each opening. hen it was easy to push a No. 11 blade through the thin plastic, 3.

I attached the panels with J-B KwikWeld 2-part epoxy. It sets in about six minutes and dries opaque, eliminating light leakage around the panels. I clamped each panel with clothespins for a tight it and to prevent the PE from lifting.

Detail panels came next. Using a toothpick, I held each in place as I lowed thin super glue under the edges. Before adding the screens, I painted the tub, 5. he ParaGraix set supplies cockpit screens and control dials printed on thin ilm, 6. Each required careful trimming to it through the plastic and rest lat against the PE panels; I secured the ilm with clear-part cement, 7. he ilm has diferent inishes — gloss on one side, lat on the other. Putting the glossy side out makes the screens look like glass, 8.

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Powering up Before installing lights, I assembled the three-part engine section. Dry-itting the intake part helped align the parts as the glue set.

To run wires between the engine and nose section, I opened a hole in the intake section, 9.

One of the touchiest parts of the project was prepping the engine exhausts for lights.

Moebius provided a clear insert with molded interior detail, much of which is replaced by ParaGraix PE and ilm.

However, to make way for the new parts, I had to remove the center of each engine on the clear part — and clear plastic is brittle and cracks easily under pressure.

Using a 7/64-inch bit in a drill press, I bored though the center of each nozzle; a dimple in the middle makes centering the bit easy.

Keep the drill speed slow to avoid melting the plastic.

With ever-larger bits on the press I widened each hole to ⅜ inch, all the while fearing a fatal crack as the plastic lexed under the bit’s torsion. hinking I had tempted

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The thick brass caused the exhaust section to sit too far back, so I sanded the mating surface on the engines to true the fit.

Attaching film printed with a cloud pattern to the inside of the engines will diffuse the light.

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The gear doors are designed to be installed open. I removed the tabs and added bits of styrene on the bay walls for door stops.

Drilling through the gear bay’s door and roof provided two anchor points for the tube. That precluded any need for extra bracing inside.

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To prevent the smaller tube from sliding too far and crimping the wires, I cut a 1⁄8-inch piece of the smaller rod and glued it into the upper end of the larger tube as a stop.

Placing the LEDs in epoxy would keep each engine’s lighting discrete when the time came to install them.

mechanical fate as much as possible, I turned a ⅝-inch bit by hand. But that still left about ¼ inch of plastic, which I removed with a motor tool, 10.

After gluing the clear part into the external engine section, I attached the PE details. A sturdy outer ring protects the ine etching, but I handled the delicate parts with care to minimize damage, 11.

Blackout To make the plastic opaque, I painted the inside of all of the body parts. All of the colors used on the Viper are Tamiya acrylics thinned with Tamiya lacquer thinner (unless otherwise noted). he irst layer was lat black, followed by chrome silver to relect light.

I also painted the exterior of the engine

section at this point so I could attach the ParaGraix ilm, 12.

After adding the wings and landing gear doors, 13, I airbrushed the exposed engine sections with metallic gray (XF-56). he Viper needed a sturdy brass-tube stand that would double as a conduit for wires from the battery pack. Using a hand drill and progressively larger bits, I bored a www.FineScale.com

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Soldering wires While it’s perfectly fine to twist wires together and wrap the joins with electrical tape or heat shrink, nothing makes a connection as surely as soldering. The Viper’s wiring would be inaccessible; so, to be sure the circuit remained intact, I soldered all of the joins.

A To start, I mechanically linked the components, in this case a resistor and its LED, by twisting or wrapping the ends. This holds the part together during soldering.

D Next, I tinned the tip by holding the end of a solder wire to the iron. The material melts quickly and coats the tip with liquid solder, which has a bright metallic shine.

5/16-inch hole up through the port gear bay at an angle that would pose the ighter nose up and banked slightly, 14.

Inserting 5/16-inch tube into the hole, I marked it at the belly. After cutting it, I cleaned up the end with round iles. I secured the tube in the well with J-B KwikWeld as a receptacle for a 12-inch segment of 9/32-inch tube, 15.

A ship of lights here was plenty of room inside the engine section for LEDs and wires, but the area around the cockpit was another matter. I needed to light the side panels, but there was minimal clearance. On another project, I might have used strips of lat LEDs. But I wanted to stick with Christmas lights. So I used big ones in the back and switched to smaller ones up front. hat solved the it issue, but introduced a voltage snag.

I used three of the big LEDs in each of the engines. hey are from a string of lights powered by three D batteries for a total of 4.5 volts. To difuse the light for an even glow from the engines, I illed three waterbottle lids with 5-minute epoxy and set each trio of LEDs into them as the adhe36 FineScale Modeler May 2018

B I liberally applied flux to the area to be joined. It helps hot solder flow across the connection, rather than beading, and prevents metals from oxidizing when exposed to heat.

E Touching the iron to the flux-covered join allows the solder to run from the tip into the wires. It requires just a brief touch; don’t hold the iron to the wire for more than a second.

sive set, 16. It took some carving and reshaping of the epoxy blocks, but I was able to get the lids into the engines, 17.

For the panels, I used LEDs from a string powered by just two D batteries, or 3 volts. To avoid burning out the smaller lights, resistors would go between the bigger string’s power supply and each LED. Using Ohm’s Law — resistance equals source voltage minus LED voltage divided by the current through the LED — I determined I needed 75-ohm resistors. (If math isn’t your thing, there are several online calculators such as www.ohmslawcalculator. com.) he last value is the hardest to determine on Christmas lights; I used 20 milliamps, which seemed to be common for small white LEDs. (A schematic on the next page shows the Viper’s wiring.)

I soldered (see sidebar) resistors onto the positive wire — something you determine with testing on these kinds of lights — of each small LED and added wire on both the positive and negative sides.

I attached LEDs to the sides of the fuselage around the cockpit, 18, and angled one to point back at the main targeting screen, 19. To help spread the light from

C I used a wet sponge to check that the iron was hot enough to solder. Gently touching the material will produce a sizzle when it’s ready. It should go without saying: Don’t touch the tip with your hand.

F With the wires successfully joined, I slipped heat shrink over the bare wires and tightened it with a hair dryer. This prevents shorting the circuit if another connection comes in contact.

these LEDs and hopefully illuminate all of the instruments, I cut .015-inch clear styrene to it behind the panels; gentle sanding made the sheet translucent to disperse light.

Gluing the fuselage produced a tangle of wires, 20. I cut them to the same length and twisted the positive (red) and negative (black) together with single wires. hose were passed through the hole I made earlier in the intake part.

Before gluing the nose to the engines, I soldered the engine and cockpit circuits to longer wires that pass through the stand mount and out of the belly.

Painting, decals, and the base Images of Viper ilming miniatures and screen captures reveal plenty of variation in Viper body color. I painted mine with a mix of 2 parts deck tan (XF-55) and 1 part white. For interest, I masked a few panels on the nose and airbrushed them with several mixes of deck tan and sky gray (XF-19); the nose ring is sky gray with a few drops of neutral gray (XF-53). After masking the panes, I irst painted the canopy frames with neutral gray to match the cockpit. hen I airbrushed them with the

Wiring diagram 4.5v battery

Switch

LEDs 75 ohm resistors

17 Polarity is crucial when installing LEDs. They will not operate if installed backwards, so test each one before soldering connections.

At this point, I should have bought stock in the glue company. Copious amounts of epoxy locked the lids and LEDs in place.

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More light and more 5-minute epoxy: I secured LEDs to the side of the fuselage along the cockpit ‌

‌ as well as forward of the tub. Note the sanded, clear styrene-sheet light diffusers over the cockpit.

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I clamped the fuselage to ensure a tight fit of the halves around the cockpit and lights.

After the lid was routed, it was glued onto the box. Other wood blocks anchor the battery pack and provide a solid base for the brass-rod stand.

body color. A layer of clear (X-22) sealed the paint and laid a foundation for decals. he decals are thin and fragile, so I went slowly. A little Microscale Micro Sol and a few judicious cuts settled the stripes over surface detail.

I weathered the ship with Tamiya enamel gray and black panel line accent colors, followed by powdered pastels.

With help from an experienced woodworker, I modiied a wooden box from a craft store to hide the large battery pack and switch, 21. I painted the box black and decorated it with a PE badge and plaque from the ParaGraix set.

After pushing the wires through the stand, I mounted the model on the rod. hen, I trimmed the wires and joined them

to complete the circuit. Using wire nuts to connect the wires allows me to separate the ship and stand for transportation.

Flipping on the switch, I was relieved to see the engines and cockpit lighting normally; I had managed to inish the project without severing any wires. And I had a working model of one of my favorite ships.

Launch when ready! FSM www.FineScale.com

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READER GALLERY

▲ DON CZECH

CAPE CORAL, FLORIDA The 1987 Aerotech was not your father’s Oldsmobile, but Don’s speculative rendition could be your grandson’s. With GE engines from an A-10 Warthog and a rudder assembly from an F-105D Thunderchief, it wears a metal polish from Uschi van der Rosten and looks ready for the Bonneville Salt Flats — or a future episode of Blade Runner.

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KRUNOSLAV LISAC ZAGREB, CROATIA You’ve heard of steampunk — but what about jetpunk? Krunoslav writes: “Recently, while I was working on a World War I fighter with a wooden fuselage, I asked myself how a modern jet made of wood would look. I selected an old Revell 1/32 scale MiG-21 MF because it has a simple barrel-shaped fuselage, flat wings, and raised panel lines (easily removed). It was a lot of scribing, but I was delighted with how it turned out. Additional ideas came along by themselves.

Soon, I added a spear to the pitot tube, medieval cannon in front of the cockpit, wooden tires, and so on. It was fun, especially when I hung laundry from the pitot with ‘Remove Before Flight’ tags on it.”

◀ JIM LEWIS

CAMPBELL, CALIFORNIA Ground forces of the Galactic Empire wouldn’t think of going anywhere without AT-STs (AllTerrain Scout Transports) to guard their flanks and deal with pesky insurgents. On Bandai’s 1/48 scale kit, Jim modified the leg joints for greater articulation. The AT-ST is painted with acrylic paints and lightly weathered with watery pigments. ▲ JOHN CHESTNUT

LUCASVILLE, OHIO When John modeled Dragon’s 1/9 scale Iron Man 3 Mark XVII Heartbreaker Armor, it was all about the painting. He used AK Interactive Xtreme Metal brass and chrome, painted Tamiya clear red over the chrome, and detailed with Vallejo burnt iron. “I probably have seven hours in masking,” he says. www.FineScale.com

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READER GALLERY

▲ STEVEN BILLS

▼ JIM JAMES

VINEYARD, UTAH Steven modeled Bandai’s 1/72 scale X-Wing as Red 6, an ill-fated fighter shot down while attacking the Death Star. (“Porkins!”) Tamiya insignia white from a spray can provided the base coat; Steven mixed 1 part hull red into 9 parts red for the stripes and painted the nose a mix of deck tan and yellow. Tamiya panel line paint made detail behind the droid station pop.

WINTER GARDEN, FLORIDA In the 1936 film serial, it was Dr. Zarkov who designed and piloted the ship that carried Flash Gordon and lovely Dale Arden to the planet Mongo to save Earth. Jim added interior detail to Fantastic Plastic’s 1/72 scale Flash Gordon Rocketship and repainted a Preiser figure as Flash.

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◀ ANDY LIU

AUCKLAND, NORTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND ZSU-23-4 Shilka: ZSU stands for Zenitnaya Samokhodnaya Ustanovka; 23 signifies the bore diameter of each gun; and there are 4 guns on this self-propelled radar-guided weapon. But when each of the four cannons can fire 850-1,000 rounds per minute (combined 3,400-4,000 rounds per minute), really, who needs radar? Andy built Meng’s 1/35 scale ZSU-23-4 Shilka, named for a river in Russia.

▶ PEDRO CRUZ

MIAMI, FLORIDA “Every model has two ARAP challenges,” Pedro writes. “One is to make the model As Real As Possible (that’s ARAP) with all the details you can find. The second is to take a picture that looks like it’s really flying. Sincerely, I don’t know which is more difficult.”

Pedro beat the ARAP with Tamiya’s 1/48 scale F-16N.

◀ MARLLUS RAMOS

BRASÍLIA, FEDERAL DISTRICT, BRAZIL Marllus modeled Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale P-47D as No. 42-28794, Black Panther, flown by Capt. Robert F. “Speedy” Bealle in the 506th Fighter Squadron, 404th Fighter Group, 9th Air Force, U.S. Army Air Forces.

www.FineScale.com

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READER GALLERY

LARRY JOHNSON JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN Larry finished a Hasegawa 1/20 scale Ammo Knight with Tamiya paints and weathered it with artist’s oils and pastels. He modified the pilot of the Maschinen Krieger 44 Type by adding arms from a Fujimi F1 pit crew figure.

Larry’s Ma.K masterpiece won gold at the IPMS Region 5 convention in 2017.

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▲ ROBERT NAGLE

COLDWATER, ONTARIO, CANADA AMT’s 1/25 scale Mack “R” Conventional and Fruehauf flatbed trailer kits replicate a rig Robert drove. Wheels, sleeper, engine, and other spare parts and scratchbuilt details represent J & F Trucking’s No. 119, painted with Testors Model Master Blue Angel blue. Crushed cars are snap kits and old builds, heated and flattened; model railroad chain and masking-tape tiedowns hold the load. It’s posed with an Italeri guardrail along U.S. 11 north of Scranton, Pa., at the Martin’s Creek viaduct. ◀ STEVE WRIGHT

SHEFFIELD, SOUTH YORKSHIRE, ENGLAND Getting a big bang for the buck, Steve built Merit International’s 1/18 scale FlaK 36 anti-aircraft gun. “It has 350 parts, many of which need sanding to remove mold seams,” he says. To save time he painted with two airbrushes, one for metallic colors and the other for German gray. www.FineScale.com

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Build a brand-new

Tomcat Make it a preproduction F-14 /// BY DARREN ROBERTS

Myriad modifications and attention to peculiar details make the difference between a preproduction Tomcat and all the other F-14 models. Here’s how you can make a model your own.

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t’s no secret — I love the F-14 Tomcat. One might even say I’m obsessed with it. I’ve built nearly 200 kits in various scales in my 40 years of modeling.

But one particular version has eluded me. he preproduction/prototype has never been done in kit form in 1/48 scale. I once tried to make my own but failed rather spectacularly, destroying a Hasegawa kit in the process. hat all changed with Tamiya’s beautiful 1/48 scale ofering. he kit’s design was perfect for converting it to that very irst version. So, with razor saw and sheet styrene in hand, I got to work. I wanted to inish this model as if it were in the inal inspection before a test light — and that would mean opening some panels and adding detail.

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Number of years since the F-14’s first flight

1 Starting with the engine compartment, I cut away the “daily door” (opened for inspection before every flight) and busied up a piece of engine from a HobbyBoss F-14 kit with some wiring and plumbing. I also detailed the inside of the door with thin plastic and rivet decals from Archer Fine Transfers.

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I painted the engine and wiring and super glued the assembly in place, beginning my descent into the abyss of superdetailing.

4 Hand-painting brought the Aires resin castings to life.

6 I cut out the molded vents underneath the fuselage and replaced them with resin fans from Steel Beach (my own company) and Eduard photoetched (PE) screen.

I wanted to add resin wheel bays from Aires, but they were made for the Hasegawa kit. With no way of knowing if they would fit without cutting away the kit’s bays, I traced the cuts with multiple passes of a hobby knife until the plastic was thin enough to part.

5 Test-fitting the Aires resin pieces, I found they were slightly narrow. But Apoxie Sculpt filled the gaps.

7 On the upper fuselage, the area between the engines on prototype and early-production Tomcats was different. To use a Steel Beach resin conversion part, I drew a scribing tool along panel lines to remove the kit plastic. www.FineScale.com

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The same area is removed from the bottom fuselage. I temporarily joined the fuselage halves to mark the bottom cut.

After the bottom area was removed, I put the fuselage halves together and super glued the resin piece in place.

The prototype differs in the wing sweep area, too; braces on top of the wing box were much larger. I cut off the locating tab …

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… and used a few quick passes with a scribing tool to remove the molded braces.

Using drawings and pictures, I made a template from tape and cut out the shapes in sheet styrene.

These were grafted onto the kit parts and reinforced inside with bits of styrene and super glue.

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On the spine, I cut out a panel and mounted various styrene rods to represent plumbing.

To prevent a hollow look, I pulled a resin piece from an old KMC F-8 set …

… and trimmed it to back the opening. The interior is painted with Testors Acryl yellow zinc chromate.

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I cut thick sheet styrene for the braces, referring to drawings and photographs for the shapes.

The gray of Eduard’s precolored PE for the cockpit was too light. So, using my trusty Optivisor and a very thin, pointed liner brush, I painted the correct dark gull gray.

The instrument shrouds have a canvas covering at the front; tissue wetted with white glue represented these. I used channel-shaped styrene to make the Radar Intercept Officer’s windscreen, unique to the prototypes.

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I finished the cockpit with swatches of green acetate for the display screens.

The prototype had a longer gun trough than the production craft, and no gun vents. I cut away the kit gun trough ‌

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‌ then filled the vents with Tamiya putty and sanded it smooth.

I filled the removed gun-trough area with Apoxie Sculpt and, while it was malleable, used the end of a paint brush to sculpt a new trough.

I cut open the avionics bay and inserted resin from a Verlinden F-14 set; it was a bit too small, so I trimmed the opening with strip styrene to fit the resin part.

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I painted the bay, added wiring, and glued it to the inside of the fuselage half.

The prototype had an IRST (infrared search and track) pod under the chin. The Steel Beach tail set had one, so I sliced off the locating tab on the kit piece and mounted the resin piece.

To show the radar, I removed the radome and sanded a part from a HobbyBoss F-14 to fit the opening.

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After gluing the windscreen, I applied the kit’s masks, masked the avionics bay and, after spraying black, masked the antiglare panel with Tamiya tape.

I peeled the center mask section from the windscreen and lightly sprayed a thinned coat of Tamiya clear green. When it was thoroughly dry, I reapplied the mask for further painting.

I cut open the wing-box panels and installed wing pivots from the HobbyBoss kit.

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To improve the navigation and anti-collision lights, I cut away the lights on the tails to replace them with shards from a toothbrush handle.

I cut oversized bits and shaped them with a motor tool. They look much better than painted plastic.

I cut the position light from the trailing edge of the starboard tail; this light was originally positioned next to the fuel dump between the engine nozzles.

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I replaced the light with styrene rod to replicate an antenna that was in the same spot.

I gussied up the gear-bay doors and landing gear with Eduard PE.

Preproduction and early-block Tomcats had fins on the drop tanks. I cut off the front end of a set of 1/72 scale F-14 tanks I had in my spares.

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These fit perfectly on the back end of the Tamiya tanks.

I modified fins from the kit’s AIM-7 Sparrow missiles and glued them on, giving me the early-style drop tanks with very little effort.

For Mk.82 Snakeye bombs, I cut openings in the sides of the Phoenix pallets and used rectangular bits of sheet styrene to attach sway braces from a 1/48 scale Revell A-6.

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After painting the model, I painted all 14 bombs blue (the color for inert ordnance) and glued them to the sway braces. It made for a very impressive loadout!

Before gluing on the landing gear, I painted the oleo struts with a finetipped chrome silver paint pen. The pen was easy to control, and I got beautifully shiny oleo struts.

Reshaped braces Radome removed

Instrument shroud

Styrene-rod “plumbing” Modified light, antenna

Detailed avionics Silver ink on oleo struts

Resin gear bays Modified sway braces

Markings were relatively simple.

The only ones I had to change were the bureau number (BuNo) and the 6 on the tails.

The digits for the BuNo came from a Microscale F-14 stencil set, and the 6 came from a Trumpeter 1/48 scale A3D-1 Skywarrior sheet. After decals, I sprayed a final semigloss coat, attached the canopy, and a gap in my Tomcat collection was finally filled. FSM

Wing pivot Relocated slime lights Converted “boat deck”

Detailed light

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This Pershing can take a hit Building, detailing, and weathering Tamiya’s early-production M26 /// BY JOHN MAHER

T

he M26 Pershing was the result of American experience in World War II facing German Tiger and Panther tanks. he U.S. needed a tank that could go toe-to-toe against the heavily armed and armored German machines.

By the time the U.S. Marines got M26 operated by the Marines. his would Pershings at the start of the Korean War, give me a chance to add stowage, which I they had been out of production for three had not done before. years. Many of the remaining tanks had been he Pershing is available in 1/35 scale put in storage or used as gate guards. from Tamiya, Dragon, and HobbyBoss. I hey required extensive overhaul and opted for Tamiya’s because it’s easy to build. refurbishment before they could join the batI added Friulmodel metal working tracks, tle and ight the Soviet T-34s ielded by the a Calibre 35 cupola, as well as E.T. Model North Koreans. and Royal Model photo-etch (PE).

I’ve always liked the look of the Pershing Tamiya paints were used except where and wanted to model an early-production noted.

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1 Tamiya does a nice job replicating the cast texture; I enhanced the look by bouncing a motor tool bit over the surface of the hull and turret. Mr. Surfacer 500 blended the edges of lifting rings and the empty-shell port with the turret.

3 To add weld beads around the lifting rings, I wound stretched sprue around a drill bit, then set the resulting ring in place with thin liquid cement. A toothpick positioned and textured the beads. I amplified the cast texture with Mr. Surfacer 500 stippled with a flat brush.

5 For more damage, small chunks of plastic were carved out with a hobby knife. Note the brush guards from the E.T. Model PE set. Instead of attempting to remove and handle the small, round PE bolts, I used plastic discs to hold the brush guards in place.

2 Removing the front fenders was easy with files and a motor tool, except for the triangular side section that connects the fender to the sloping hull front. I cut it away with a saw blade chucked into a knife handle.

Tamiya tape protected the surounding surface.

4 I wanted to show battle damage, imagining a shot ricocheting off the co-driver’s position and onto the front hull. I used a soldering iron to establish where the shell hit.

6 I properly dinged-up the rear fender by thinning the plastic and then twisting it with flat pliers. On the real deal, the lightweight material needed additional bracing. So, I used .012-inch brass rod, an HO turnbuckle, and PE from E. T. Model to craft a support. www.FineScale.com

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A common field modification on Korean War Pershings was the addition of racks for ammunition boxes on the side fenders. Duncan Macintosh came up with an ingenious way to build this delicate subassembly out of brass strip: Using resin .30- and .50-caliber ammo cans from Ultracast, I positioned two corner boxes and pinned them to the fender with brass rod. Then, I made simple jigs out of four blocks of plastic; two set to the depth of the rack, and two set to the height. With the brass strip balanced on the jigs, I super glued it to the two corner boxes with a Glue Looper micro-glue applicator. The resulting subassembly could now be painted separately without the worry of breaking it while I handled the model.

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Many Marine Pershings had jerry cans strapped to the spare tracks.

Wanting all the subassemblies to be strong, I pinned together the jerry can and spare track with brass rod. I anchored the pins to the Friulmodel parts with plastic blocks super glued in place.

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I built up the back of the hollow knapsacks with Magic Sculpt. To hang stowage realistically, I pinned individual items with brass rod. The blanket and tarp are also made of Magic Sculpt.

A rack on the rear of the turret carried a spare .50-caliber barrel, to which crews strapped stowage. The barrel is from Tasca, the clamps from E.T. Model. I snipped off the ends with nail clippers.

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Lots o’ add-ons: A Legend Productions K-ration box; more Tasca jerry cans (pinned down with brass rod); straps made of flat lead wire from UMM-USA; Eureka tow cables wrapped around Royal Model PE clips; and stowage-locker handles from a Dragon Pershing.

For the field-added commander’s machine gun, I used Tasca’s .30-caliber set for the breech and RB Models’ turned-brass barrel. The cradle was kitbashed using parts from Tasca’s .50-caliber set, Tamiya’s Tiran 5, and the lid of an E.T. Model .30-caliber ammo box.

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I replaced the kit’s main gun with RB’s turned-metal 90mm barrel. To ensure a tight fit with the Tamiya mantlet, I cut off the back end of the kit barrel and added it to the RB barrel.

After North Korean T-34s the Marines faced infantry: hence, the added .30-caliber on the turret and spare ammo on the fenders. Note the clear periscopes from Tiger Model Design. (The brush guards would be added later.) Casting numbers are from Archer Fine Transfers.

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After priming the model with Mr. Surfacer 1200 thinned 50 percent with lacquer thinner, I applied a rust mix of flat red, red brown, and flat yellow to the area where the rear fender was removed.

I applied black green to areas of shadow, such as the lower section of the turret, bottom of the gun, and engine grilles. The clothespins make the model easy to hold and keep it off the table for drying.

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Tamiya paints airbrush best when mixed 50:50 with clear (X-22) that has already been diluted with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. For the base hue, I alternated airbrushing olive drab and khaki.

I highlighted upper surfaces with a mix of yellow, yellow green, and olive drab. Because the upcoming weathering steps will naturally darken the model, I wanted a bright base as my starting point. www.FineScale.com

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Using custom masks made by Tony Bell, I applied the markings. I painted the yellow markings with desert yellow, followed by lemon yellow. The stars were painted with royal light gray, followed by white.

Vallejo camouflage olive green and green brown applied with a 3/0 brush picked out details like hatch handles, fuel-cap locks, bolt heads, and the edges of hinges.

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To knock down the glossy finish, I applied flat clear, which actually dries satin. To begin blending, I brushed Wilder dark tan filter onto highlighted areas, and Ammo by Mig Jimenez “brown for dark green filter” over shadows with a round No. 6 brush.

Wilder brown shadow wash added depth in shadows. A tiny bit of sponge loaded with Vallejo camouflage olive green and khaki gave the appearance of chipped paint.

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A 3/0 brush dipped in Vallejo German camouflage black brown picked out the center of the chips. This Pershing is starting to look properly beat-up.

Next, I applied artist’s-oil dot filters: Spots of Abteilung 502 faded green, olive green, German ochre, green grass, and German three-tone fading were blended with a flat brush damp with turpentine. I used downward strokes on vertical surfaces, and stippled the dots on horizontal ones.

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Ammo old rust pigment and thin AK Interactive light rust was flicked over the model with a stiff brush. I blended the flecks and applied a speckling of highlight colors.

Mud splatter on the wheels is a combination of six Wilder textured earth colors (fine and stony): dark brown, light brown, and light gray.

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Over the splattered mud pattern, I applied a combination of AK Interactive dust effects, Africa dust effects, and earth effects.

Abteilung 502 matt effect thinner is a great product for this step because it dries fast and flat.

To make the mud-splatter more random, I mixed Africa dust effects, Wilder murky water effects, and Wilder dark brown pigment. This mix was speckled on the lower areas of the tank. A piece of paper protected the upper hull.

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Finally, I splattered Abteilung 502 light mud with my airbrush at 8 psi.

These oil paints have a long working time, so you can take your time blending and remove unrealistic splatters with thinner.

The machine guns were painted blue, followed by green brown and camouflage olive green mixed with Panzer Aces highlights. I washed the barrels and breeches with black. The helmet covers up pins I used to mount the spare tracks and jerry can. With that, I called it done. FSM www.FineScale.com

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Finish a

Thunderbolt in a flash Playing checkers with Tamiya’s 1/72 scale “razorback” P-47D

BY FRANK CUDEN

I enjoy coming up with schemes that are different from the box art.

There are many decal options in the aftermarket, but my stash of spares provided almost everything I needed. Combining them with a wellengineered Tamiya kit made this as relaxing as a good game of checkers.

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oes anyone play checkers anymore? Well, I did with Tamiya’s 1/72 scale “razorback” P-47D (No. 60769). When I found a reference photo with that big checkerboard on the cowling, matching squadron decals in my stash, and a friend with the checkerboard decals, I was ready to set up my board and play.

Shades of Alclad II, a lacquer, provide variation to the natural-metal inish. Otherwise, it’s enamels: Humbrol, Testors, Floquil, and AeroMaster. hough the latter two brands are out of production, equivalents are available.

(But I still like my Floquil paints!)

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17,500/ 6,700 In pounds, maximum takeoff weight of the P-47D and Spitfire Mk.VB, respectively

1 First move: I painted the cockpit with Humbrol bronze green flat enamel (No. 75) and added Eduard prepainted photo-etched (PE) belts and harness (No. 73-004).

3 I gave the tail-wheel assembly a slight twist to show it offset. After checking the fuselage seam with gray primer, I sprayed bronze green inside the cowling and Testors white enamel outside.

2 I drilled out undersized exhausts and installed styrene tubing for exhaust pipes; after drilling a pilot hole, I used a reamer to achieve a precise fit.

4 Four sections of checkerboard decals fit perfectly around the cowling, and, with a coating of Solvaset, they hugged the inside lip.

White aluminum

Old silver

Dull aluminum

5 Resurrecting an ancient bottle of Bare-Metal polishing compound, I polished the plastic to ensure no scuffs or scratches would show in the metallic paint to come.

6 I sprayed a base coat of Floquil old silver thinned with lacquer thinner, then sprayed two upper wing panels Alclad II white aluminum and the control surfaces Alclad II dull aluminum. www.FineScale.com

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7 The aircraft I was modeling did not have wrap-around invasion stripes; I masked the silver and sprayed white bands on the underside.

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8 With more masking, I sprayed the fin’s leading edge Alclad II polished aluminum. I used the same on the wings’ leading edges. Masking metallics can be risky, but Floquil silver withstands it well.

10

After masking and spraying the nose’s antiglare panel with AeroMaster faded olive drab, I covered it and the white bands on the underside to complete the panel painting topside.

Next, a thin topcoat of Floquil old silver softened the panel contrasts. I picked out panel lines with a soft artist’s pencil, then test-fitted the cowling.

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I painted invasion stripes with Floquil engine black, masked, then added a few drops of white to Testors yellow zinc chromate and sprayed the wheel wells.

I painted the “turtledeck” behind the pilot seat dark gull gray. By this time I was glad I had left off the wing guns and pitot tube to avoid breaking them.

58 FineScale Modeler May 2018

Exhaust stubs Slippage mark

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Reference photos showed a national insignia under each wing; I pulled these from my spares.

Styrene-tube exhaust stubs are painted with Floquil antique bronze; I hand-painted red slippage marks on the muddied-up tires.

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A little mud thrown up from the gear was depicted by dry-brushing Testors Model Master tan on the wings (a bit for the tail wheel, too).

Stencils are from my spares. I thought it was now safe to add the guns and pitot tube. But I broke off the latter — twice!

Pastel staining

I vacuum-formed the canopy and windshield, and added navigation lights made from red and green Lite-Brite colored pegs that I heatstretched, sliced, and sanded to fit the notched wingtips. I filled out the notches with Microscale Kristal Klear and coated them clear acrylic. Access panels are hand-painted with Testors steel. Gray pastels, brushed back from the cowling, provided light weathering and finished my Thunderbolt in a flash. So king me! FSM

Vacuum-formed canopy

Hand-painted access panel

ID from spare decals

Penciled panel lines

“Weighted” resin wheels Frequently broken pitot

Lite-Brite wingtip light

AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING

By Aaron Skinner

Weather a World War I tank Hit the trenches with HobbyBoss’ 1/35 scale Schneider CA

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espite shortcomings, including a propensity for getting stuck in the mud, France’s irst tank, the Schneider CA (later designated CA1) saw extensive service through much of the last two years of World War I. Dekker Zimmerman, of Colorado Springs, Colo., marked that history when he built HobbyBoss’ Schneider CA. Working mostly from the box, he added stowage and blankets made from Tamiya epoxy putty to the roof, and M.V. Products lenses to the lights. He says the model went together easily, except for the tracks, which were a real nightmare to build and attach. “I ended up gluing the heck out of them and they still came apart many times,” he says. “My only suggestion is to glue them as best you can then do as I did and bury them in mud to hide the laws and gaps.”

Before any weathering, Dekker needed to paint the vehicle. Experimentation was the name of the game for WWI camoulage, and Schneiders wore various multicolored schemes.

As a foundation for Tamiya acrylics, he sprayed the model with a mix of 7 parts Badger Stynylrez black primer and 3 parts Tamiya acrylic thinner (X-20A), which dries in about 15 minutes and levels no matter how heavy the coat.

For the camoulage, he mixed equal parts Tamiya acrylic paint and Tamiya thinner to spray through a Grex Genesis XGi with a .3mm needle and tip. He powered the brush with a Testors AC 500 Pro compressor with an air tank. Spraying at 12-20 psi produces ine edges on freehand lines, he says.

First he sprayed wooden deck tan (XF-78) over the model but left the underside and lower parts black for shadows, a form of color modulation. “Shooting at a downward angle of 45 degrees works well,” he says.

Referencing the kit instructions and photos, he applied JA green (XF-13), medium blue (XF-18), and red brown (XF-64). “I painted the colors in a cloud pattern and used landmarks on the tank, such as panels and bolts, to place the spots,” he says.

His research indicated WWI paint was of poor quality, fading or shifting color and running when applied. With that in mind, and anticipating heavy weathering, Dekker says he was less concerned with color accuracy. Instead, he chose colors that looked close and focused on getting ine lines and coverage with properly thinned paint and low pressure.

“Slowly build up the color and shape of the spots of camoulage,” he says. Evoking PBS painting guru Bob Ross, Dekker adds, “Remember: Happy little clouds.”

Dekker airbrushed the model with Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM) straight from the bottle at 12 psi. hree days later he applied the decals — all three of them — then sealed the inish with more PFM in preparation for weathering. FSM

60 FineScale Modeler May 2018

Groundwork: Dekker applied Patchcrete, a concrete patching paste, straight from the tub, smoothing it over the foam to a depth of about 1⁄8 inch. While the material was wet, he pushed the tank into it to give the impression of weight; he made track marks in the mud behind the vehicle with a flat screwdriver. When the Patchcrete dried, he applied a wash of 3 parts American burnt umber craft acrylic and 7 parts water that is absorbed by the Patchcrete to look like dirt. For shadows in the mud, he flowed on wash of 9 parts water and 1 part Americana ivory black craft paint. Dry-brushed Americana raw sienna provided highlights. Random spots of AK Interactive Wet Effects Fluid (AK-079) gave the mud a slick appearance.

Washes: Dekker applied an overall wash of Abteilung 501 wash brown with a ½-inch brush. Before that dried, he applied a slightly thicker pinwash to corners and panel lines. After letting the washes dry for five days, he airbrushed Testors Dullcote for a dead-flat finish.

Panel lines: Rather than paint, Dekker post-shaded panel lines by brushing powdered black pastel chalk along them with a 5/0 brush.

Then, using a wide, round brush, he blended the pastels to give a dirty appearance to panel edges.

Meet Dekker Zimmerman When 6-year-old Dekker built Monogram’s 1/48 scale Typhoon, the only paint available was gold touch-up his mom gave him.

“Using a small brush, I made a curved line on the wing from front to back, and the paint went on so smooth and perfect I was hooked!” he says. “I have been

into models ever since.” Initially he focused on 1/32 scale airplane and spacecraft.

A lifelong member of his local IPMS chapter, he recently joined AMPS after building armor.

Dekker studied aeronautical engineering and has taught industrial robotics. He’s also pho-

Streaking: Western Front weather was hard on tanks. For the effects of rain, Dekker applied lines of AK Interactive dark streaking grime (AK024) to the sides, roof, and bow with a 2/0 brush. After 15 minutes, he dragged a ¼-inch brush damp with mineral spirits down the surfaces, blending the streaks into the camouflage until they all but disappeared. The trick is to always keep the motion perpendicular to the ground.

tographed the Reno air races, repaired antique Bugs Bunny animation cells, modeled for the movies (including Star Trek), built a robotic Gremlin for the SyFy Channel’s Fact or Faked, and builds 1/1 scale dinosaurs and critters for the Denver Museum of Natural History.

Mud: To splash a little mud on the running gear and hull, Dekker mixed a tablespoon of Hydrocal plaster, ½ teaspoon of Mig Productions Europe dust pigment (P028), ¼ teaspoon Mig acrylic resin for pigment (P032), and slowly added water to get a thick, muddy texture. He applied it with an old ¼-inch brush, pushing it into all of the tracks and suspension. Using the same brush, he stippled the mud over the lower sides. Dry Mig pigments — Europe dust, Panzer gray (P035) and dark earth (P033) — varied the color and blended it to match the base. To add wet spots of mud, he made a new mix of plaster and Europe dust pigment with a few drops of Testors Model Master clear gloss and added enamel thinner until the mixture was smooth. This was applied where the freshest mud would accumulate.

Base: After cutting and shaping a block of foam, Dekker clad the edges with 3⁄32-inch basswood. The thin wood was hot-glued to the foam and stained red brown. K&S L-shaped brass covers the corners.

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READER TIPS

By Elizabeth Nash Paint right on the sprue

Sprue trees provide the best handle for painting and detailing parts.

I’ll mask of one section at a time, airbrush, remove the tape, and then cut the parts of the tree with clippers or a razor saw. he separation points are easily touched up afterward.

– Greg Hildebrandt Winamac, Ind.

A bit about bits Most of you probably have a set of wiregauge drill bits, No. 61 through No. 80, and rightfully so, as they are an invaluable part of any modeler’s tool kit.

I suggest you add drill bits No. 51 through No. 60 to your toolbox. You need them if you do a lot of drilling and tapping holes for screws. hey are found individually at hardware stores. Micro-Mark has a set of bits from No. 1 through No. 60.

Tire-painting tips

Putty masks wheels I use Silly Putty to mask the rims while painting aircraft tires.

First, I spray the entirety of the wheel with white primer. Next, I roll small balls of putty and push them over the wheels until the edge reaches the rim. Then, I then spray the rubber color over the tires.

Finally, I remove the putty, leaving a nice round rim in the middle of the black tire. It couldn’t be easier to paint white wheels.

– John Hofherr West Fargo, N.D.

Capillary action to the rescue When painting rubber tires on road wheels, I’ve found that fine rims can be a nightmare to paint.

To ease the process, I use a black wash, such as Tamiya’s panel liner, and touch a brushful to the outside base of the rim. Capillary action draws the wash around the recess and, suddenly, it’s neatly painted.

– Steven Siegel Nesconset, N.Y.

– L.B. Groover Tyrone, Ga.

Keep it where you can see it

Thoroughly mix paint

I cut out and tape paint codes on the wall in front of me; that way I don’t have to keep lipping back to them while building my latest car model.

Just make sure the codes aren’t printed on the reverse side of critical instructions and you are good to go!

Go to a craft store and purchase a bunch of ¼-inch plastic beads. Place them in paint jars before putting the jars on a paint shaker. he beads act the same as a rattle in a spray can, mixing up the paint. Bonus: You can rinse and reuse the beads.

– Brian Linstead Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada

– Greg Qualtieri Waterloo, N.Y.

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HAVE A TIP OR TECHNIQUE TO SHARE? Send a brief description along with a photo to tips@FineScale.com or visit FineScale. com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

By Mark Hembree About Floquil old silver Q I’m using Floquil old silver paint for bare metal on aircraft. he paint is said to be “lacquer-like” in one of my reference books. It smells like a lacquer paint, so isn’t lacquer thinner the best thinner to use for airbrushing Floquil paints? And what’s the best clear coat to use before and after decals?

– John Osgood Boulder Creek, Calif.

A Floquil has gone out of production, but many people still have those paints around.

For expert advice, I consulted Frank Cuden, frequent FSM author and user of Floquil’s old silver. He says: “I thin my old silver with Sherwin-Williams lacquer thinner (product No. R7K120; below that, on the gallon can, it says 143-8726) around 50-60% thinner/50-40% paint. A local painter told me about that stuff, and it’s worked well for me. It’s about $25/gallon, but well worth it. Some of the cheaper lacquer thinners aren’t all they’re cracked up to be — I’ve found that out through experience.

“I don’t use a clear coat: I apply decals right over the Floquil old silver with no problems.

First I put down some Microscale Micro Set (blue bottle), and when the decals grab I apply a coat of Solvaset and they settle down just fine. It is important to use a damp cloth to wipe away the Solvaset residue after it has dried well so subsequent staining doesn’t occur. When I have to over-spray a decal, I’ve used Testors Model Master semigloss clear, Floquil’s Crystal Cote, or, if flat is desired, Testors Dullcote; I use lacquer thinner to thin those, too.

“For some strange reason, one paint or technique can work for a given modeler and not for another. So many variables: How far away from the model are you spraying? What’s the width of the spray pattern? I spray a swath about ¼ inch wide at about 23 psi. Any less pressure and I get ‘dots,’ no matter what the experts say. Experiment with your mixes and applications.”

GOT A MODELING PROBLEM? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. Email questions@inescale.com, or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. Mail volume and space limitations prevent us from printing every question. Please include your name, town, state, and a daytime phone number.

Moebius’ 1/24 scale Lost in Space Chariot offers a large palette for canopy techniques.

Ammonia and PFM?

Q

Using Future (Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish, or PFM) as a clear coat is certainly nothing new. But some time ago I came across a post that suggested that once the PFM has been applied and allowed to cure, spraying it with a diluted solution of household ammonia and water, followed by a quick water rinse, can actually produce a great polished luster to the clear coat. Perhaps it has to be done repeatedly. I know ammonia breaks down the PFM, and can be damaging to silicone O-rings used on airbrushes, but using it diluted seems logical as it imparts a level of control on how the ammonia affects the acrylic coat.

Any opinions or additional details?

– Richard Strumsky, Phoenix, Ariz.

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We have heard about people doing this with PFM, and it makes a certain amount of sense — similar to spraying a lacquer with lacquer thinner to get the color coat to level.

However, it’s a dicey business with the potential of a serious setback. When I coated a large canopy (Lost in Space Chariot, which features a spacious clear piece) with PFM and it dried with a ripple in it, I tried a similar ploy. I may have done it wrong, but I wound up having to strip off much of the PFM and starting over. I used Windex (in which ammonia is a key ingredient) to remove the PFM. So, I won’t say it can’t work, but I wouldn’t do it — the most likely result would be pitting or removal of the PFM. If you want to try it, I’d suggest using a test piece to perfect your technique. You mentioned diluting the ammonia (like Windex), but the risk would be the same.

By the way, the danger ammonia poses to your airbrush is not so much to the O-rings as it is etching the brass parts. If you run Windex or other ammonia products through your airbrush, flush everything thoroughly with water. FSM

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WORKBENCH REVIEWS FSM experts build and evaluate new kits

Tamiya opens up the Bf 109G-6

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amiya’s new Bf 109G-6 adds another choice for modelers looking to build the most numerous version of this Messerschmitt ighter. Tamiya has taken 1/48 scale Bf 109G kits to another level with its innovations.

Crisply molded in gray plastic, the kit ofers a bounty of features: a pilot igure; canopy masks; alternate windscreens; underwing cannon pods; and a drop tank. he highlight is an engine with removable cowling to display the engine. he cockpit has adequate detail and, with careful painting, it will look good if you pose the canopy open.

Tamiya has taken great care to provide 64 FineScale Modeler May 2018

solutions to areas that have been troublesome in achieving a properly aligned 109. he horizontal tail plane is molded in a single piece — very nice, as it eliminates alignment issues such as drooping. And while the landing gear on 109s is always a challenge to get right, Tamiya has cleverly molded the legs with attachment extensions that lock the legs at the correct angles.

And the wheels have positive locking pegs that set the toe-in.

Both the fuselage and wings assembled cleanly. he wing-to-fuselage attachment was beautifully precise, with no gaps needing iller. he wheel wells have some nice detailing to represent liners and vent holes.

Wing slats, landing laps, and radiator

laps can be posed up or down. hey do require some modiication, such as cutting or alternate parts to modify the position.

Tamiya has designed the kit to have the cowling closed up or changed to be open, displaying the engine and oil cooler.

Borrowing a page from its 1/32 scale kits, Tamiya provides magnets in key points to hold parts in place while keeping them removable. Separate parts are provided for a closed cowling, along with parts for open cowlings. he oil-cooler housing also is given as two assemblies for either closed or open cowlings. Magnets installed in the core engine assembly are attracted to washers installed in the cowling front and the radiators.

Instructions note that you should not ill the top and bottom fuselage seams, as the real aircraft had panel lines there — good to know! he drop tank can be attached and removed at will through the use of a vinyl keeper. he multipart vertical tail construction, along with some unused parts, makes it look as though Tamiya is positioning for other versions in the future.

I painted my Messerschmitt with a combination of GSI Creos Hobby Color and Tamiya acrylics. Decals are given for two aircraft; these went down well on a gloss undercoat with some decal solution.

My primary reference was Messerschmitt

Bf 109G, by Shigeru Nohara and Masatsugu Shiwaku (Model Graphix/ Dainippon Kaig, ISBN 978-4-49920589-4). Also useful was Jagdwafe: he Mediterranean 1943-1945, by Jean Louis Roba and Martin Pegg (Classic, ISBN 978-1-903223-37-6), as it contained photos of the very aircraft I chose to model.

I completed the kit in 27 hours. he build was most enjoyable, and I like the look of the inished model. While it’s not for beginners, Tamiya’s model will be no problem for modelers with experience of more-complex kits. I highly recommend it to Luftwafe modelers, especially those who love building a Bf 109.

– Jim Zeske

Kit: No. 61117 Scale: 1/48 Mfg.: Tamiya, www.tamiya.com Price: $53 Comments: Injectionmolded, 206 parts (5 white-metal, 10 vinyl, masks), decals Pros: Accurate; great engineering and attention to detail; clear instructions Cons: Interchangeable details create quite a few planning decisions, making it a less-than-straightforward build

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WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Panda M1 Abrams

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here have been several recent Abrams kits by diferent companies, but no new tool of an original M1 until Panda’s release.

Most of the dark yellow moldings are for individual tracks. Periscopes, lights, and wheel end caps are clear styrene. A photoetch (PE) sheet provides engine screens, tow-cable supports, a jerry-can rack, and a wheel template. Two brass cables are also included, along with markings for four tanks: one from the NATO Reforger exercises; another in the MERDC scheme; and two from the 3rd Battalion, 67th Armor Regiment, 2nd Armored Division. he moldings exhibit lash, protruding knockout marks, mold shift, deep mold lines, and sink marks, all fairly easy to ix.

Fits were mostly good, with only a little iller needed around the hull edges and turret halves. Test-it parts, though; many of

Kit: No. 35030 Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: Panda, www.panda-hobby.com Price: $55.95 Comments: Injectionmolded, 993 parts (37 PE, 2 brass cables), decals Pros: Wheel template for painting; both early- and late-style skirts; clear parts for wheel hubs Cons: Pieces need a lot of cleanup; two-piece main-gun barrel; difficult track assembly

66 FineScale Modeler May 2018

the mounting pins or tabs are oversize, and you risk breakage if you force them.

Once the hull halves are joined you can add the detail parts. Step 5 presents the option of two diferent pieces for the hull rear but does not explain the diference. he answer comes in Step 9, where you have a choice of two rear sections of skirts; the ones with cutouts match parts C33 and C46 at the rear. hese skirt options match diferent marking options. he suspension arms (parts D4) have tabs that are supposed to lock them into place, but there is a lot of play; make sure they are all even when gluing them. I glued the inner road wheels together irst, then painted them with my shade color and painted the outer road wheels black. Next, the outer rims were snapped into place on the hubs. A PE wheel mask was used to spray the vehicle’s main color on the outer rim and inner hub. he tracks took most of the build time.

You get 160 links; I broke four of them during cleanup, leaving no spares with 78 links per side. he end connectors do not want to stay in place, so I ended up gluing one pin per connecter; this leaves the tracks mostly workable.

I glued the skirts together in one piece.

But the joints are not strong, so I glued a reinforcing piece of styrene along the joint.

I left them of the model until it was painted and the tracks were installed.

Turret assembly was straightforward. he barrel is supplied in halves with the muzzle glued into the end. But the mounting pin on my muzzle was oversize, so I had to drill out the barrel to it. he barrel moves up and down but doesn’t stay put, so I glued it in position.

Parts B15 and B16 of the smoke dischargers were missing pins to mount them to the base plates (parts B5 and B6). So, I added styrene rod to join the two parts. In Step 13, Part B17 of the smoke discharger should be B7.

I had trouble folding Part PE 7, the tow-cable end bracket; I could not get it to bend around the end of the tow cable, and after repeated attempts it broke. here is no guide for the cables’ length, and when I found they were too long I left them of.

My .50-caliber machine gun was damaged on the sprue; it can be replaced in the aftermarket.

On the hinge for the commander’s hatch (Step 18), parts B55 and B54 are switched. he turret side racks are molded as one piece. I found it easier to clean up the racks while they were still on the sprue, and I mounted them last to avoid breaking them.

Do not mount the turret until you are inished with the model; once it clicks into place there is no way to remove it.

I chose to model the Reforger tank because I liked its large, blue numbers on the front. he decals were a little thick but easy to maneuver, and there was no silvering. he color sheet shows a large regimental insignia plaque on the back of the turret, but the one on the decal sheet is much smaller. It appears you are supposed to cut out the one shown in the directions and mount that, but I used the small decal.

Panda’s M1 is an advance from the 1982 Tamiya kit, but it is not easy. Due mostly to the tracks, the build took almost 47 hours.

An aftermarket .50-caliber machine gun barrel and additional crew gear would improve the model. Internet discussions question its accuracy, such as the left rear fuel cap position, but the model looks like the irst production M1.

– Mike Scharf

Wingnut Wings Jeannin Stahltaube

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ommonly referred to by its abbreviated name, Taube, the Jeannin Stahltaube is one of many variants of the same, simple bird-like design. Wingnut Wings’ moldings retain the translucency of the dove-like wings.

In addition, the kit features Wingnut Wings’ customary detail and it, including enhanced options such as photo-etched (PE) wheel spokes. Five marking options are provided. he cleverly designed interior assembly incorporates the bottom of the fuselage; the it here was so good that I left this assembly separate until after I built the rest of the fuselage to allow precise alignment.

I added the detailed interior framework prior to painting the canvas and metal.

After painting wood grain on bulkheads, I picked out details. he Taube’s few instruments and controls are faithfully replicated

by Wingnut Wings including decal gauges.

I left of the control wheel for painting so I could easily mask the cockpit by stuing it with foam. Don’t skimp on the interior rigging; most of it is visible, especially if you leave an engine cowl of. he kit provides two engines types. hey aren’t mentioned in the instructions, but the kit includes optional parts for more engine details, such as parts to it wire rocker arms.

It pays to check the sprues. he tight cowl requires the engine to be mounted before the fuselage is closed.

However, this complicates painting. If you use the Argus engine, the cowling must be

trimmed. But the area to be removed is clearly marked inside the cowl. I modiied the mount for the clear fuel sight so I could add it to the fuel tank after illing and painting.

I left of all of the rigging attachment struts for painting and decaling.

After some soul-searching, I added the wings before painting to ensure proper it and good glue bonds. he wing attachment points are surprisingly strong — no worries about this bird’s wings folding. And what wings they are! he moldings are scale thin and translucent, just like the real thing; so is the tail.

Painting this pretty bird presented two challenges: First, make the monochromatic color interesting; second, retaining the wing’s gossamery appearance. For the latter, I mixed a few drops of the body color into Tamiya clear and misted it over the unpainted warping sections of the wings and tail. It worked: If I hold the model up to the light you can see through the plastic.

I used a hair dryer to settle larger decals; setting solution worked for smaller markings.

I added inal details before rigging, as I didn’t want to ight through wires to attach parts.

I attempted to use the petite PE wire wheels, but couldn’t get them looking quite right. Fortunately, molded plastic spoked wheels are provided. hey don’t look nearly as nice but are much easier to use. he rest of the landing gear installed easily — it almost didn’t need glue! I had trouble

Kit: No. 32058 Scale: 1/32 Mfg.: Wingnut Wings, www.wingnutwings.com Price: $119 Comments: Injection-molded, 153 parts (19 PE), decals Pros: Amazingly thin wings and tail; molded wire attachments for rigging; great fits Cons: Indistinct join for hook support

deciding how the hook support struts mounted, but super glue covered any errors I may have made. he rigging appears daunting, but it is actually straightforward; I used ine EZ Line throughout. he kit included molded turnbuckle assemblies that made adding lying wires a snap. he most stressful part of rigging — and the entire build — was getting the warping wires in place using the PE splitters. Go slow and allow the wires to pull tension through the tail.

All the wires complicate handling, but the inished Taube is sturdy.

I spent a little more than 41 hours on mine, seven for rigging alone. While it wasn’t an easy build, it wasn’t as diicult as my irst glance suggested. All in all, another outstanding kit from Wingnut Wings.

– Chuck Davis

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WORKBENCH REVIEWS

HobbyBoss USS Alaska

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SS Alaska (CB-1) was the lead ship in a class of six cruisers of which just one other, USS Guam (CB-2), was completed.

Authorized under the Fleet Expansion Act of 1940, but not commissioned until June 1944, this class was rapidly superseded by aircraft carriers as the primary ships of World War II after Guadalcanal. Armored against 10-inch shells, but with 1930s-era torpedo defenses, Alaska found its niche as a fast anti-aircraft escort, iring up to 25,000 rounds of 20mm, 40mm, and 127mm ammunition per minute from a fast, stable platform. he model is accurate, right down to the shallow quarterdeck extension that required aircraft catapults be placed amidships.

he kit has more than 1,100 parts (1,068 are used), with 292 excellent photoetched (PE) parts on four frets, as well as 16 gray styrene sprues and eight other parts, including a one-piece hull and two-part main deck. Decals provide lags, ship numbers, and markings for two SC-1 seaplanes that are molded in clear plastic. he 40-page instructions are generally excellent (with but few exceptions). A color sheet shows the 1944 Measure 32/1D camoulage of 5-L light gray, 5-O ocean gray, dull black, and 20-B weather deck blue.

Step 1 requires hole-drilling of the fore and aft deck sections for parts placement,

followed by ine keel placement, four prop shafts, and a single large rudder in Steps 2 and 3. Steps 4 and 5 were the irst “trap,” not apparent until Step 60 (railing placement). he 35 chocks are just a bit too wide at the base, forcing the railings out of true at the end of the build. Each should be shaved 50% to match the hull-edge width and allow the long railing sections to run true. If not for the review deadline, I would have cut them all of, sanded them down, and reset them so the railings would be inboard of the chocks. he instructions continue logically through Step 21, which builds vents with

Airfix Messerschmitt Me 262A-1A

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ypical of Airix’s new-tool kits, the Me 262 features great detail with excellent moldings and its, all at an outstanding value. he inely recessed panel lines may seem a bit overdone to some, but I think they look ine; I had no worries about them disappearing under paint. he model can be built wheels down or in light (a stand is not included), and the canopy can be posed open or closed. Sturdy tabs attach the separate rudder, which may be displayed ofcenter with modiication. Cartograf decals provide markings for two Luftwafe ighters. he cockpit tub is split horizontally.

Cockpit detail includes side consoles with molded controls, a lat instrument panel with decal dials, seat, joystick, and pedals. he only noticeable omission is seat belts. he kit’s pilot looks a little soft.

68 FineScale Modeler May 2018

Kit: No. 86513 Scale: 1/350 Mfg.: HobbyBoss, www.hobbyboss.com Price: $154 Comments: Injectionmolded, 1,068 parts (292 PE), decals Pros: Excellent fits; extensive PE; well-diagramed instructions Cons: SC-1 seaplanes out of scale

PE, assembles 34 of the 20mm mounts, and bends 16 curved loater-net baskets for the main deck.

Step 22 begins building the forward superstructure. You will ind it much easier to place two ladders (PE-C18 ) with railings within the well under the lag bags (from Step 26). I did deviate at Step 27 by not placing the 5-inch case netting parts PE-C51; they extended so far out that I knew I would hook them at some point (they were added at the end). he following steps take a long time to create the SK radar as well as the Mk.12/22 for the Mk.37 anti-aircraft directors. he mount (E18) for the SK screen was vague and seemed undersize, but it worked out.

Step 29 creates the Mk.8 radar for the Mk.38 main-battery directors; feeding the dipoles through the tiny holes proved extremely challenging, and it is one area that needs a larger diagram. Step 33 begins the 60-part stack, including internal ins, piping, ladders, and PE fore and aft platforms. he PE is well rendered, and all parts it perfectly with a bit of patience.

Step 37 begins the aft superstructure, which continues through Step 48. he crane cradle’s PE grid work in Step 39 is a nice detail section. Steps 49-52 challenge you to build the catapults and cranes with only minimal plastic. A word of caution about the PE crane sections: my hammerhead tips required extensive bending to iceskate the shape to it.

Steps 55-57 present the three mainarmament 12-inch/50 triple turrets and 18 more loat baskets to bend to attach to the tops. he six twin 5-inch/38s have wellformed single-molding gun houses and can be built to elevate the barrels.

he completed cockpit mounts on bulkheads attached to the one-piece lower wing.

I deviated from the instructions and attached the upper wing halves before adding the fuselage. he it was nearly perfect, but I thinned the lower wing a touch to get it lush with the upper sections. he fuselage halves it well, with just a little Mr. Surfacer necessary in a few spots to eliminate the seam. After that, the wing assembly practically snapped into place. I added about 5 grams of lead shot to the nose. here’s a lot of space there, but be sure to leave room for the nose-gear bay in the lower nose; I shaved a little from the front corners for it and used iller to blend it into the fuselage.

I had trouble itting the leading edge of the engine nacelles to the main wing; both required putty for a smooth transition.

However, the engines went together perfectly. he intakes on the marking option I chose were natural metal, so I left them of for painting.

Installing the landing gear was painless, with everything itting neatly. Be careful, though: hey seem a little weak, especially the nose leg. A front view showing the inward angle of the main gear would have been useful. he canopy comes in three pieces, each with crisp framing. he windscreen includes part of the forward fuselage and joins at a panel line, so blending is unnecessary.

I painted the ighter with Testors Model Master RLM 76 lichtblau underneath and RLM 82 dunkelgrun on top. I randomly sprayed a little RLM 71, a slightly lighter shade of dunkelgrun, to add a little interest to the green. he decals worked lawlessly and conformed to the surface with the help of setting solution and a little heat. he model measures nearly dead-on compared to published dimensions, and a quick comparison with a Revell ProModeler kit shows it to be identical in

he inal steps add the main-deck railings mentioned earlier, as well as two clear plastic SC-1 Curtiss Seahawks. he only out-of-scale moldings in the kit (oversize props and tail ins a scale 27 feet, 4 inches wide), they also are missing cradles for the loats to mount on the catapults or even park on the deck. I made micro cradles out of PE scrap, unable to balance the edge of the loat in any other way.

Overall, this is an excellent kit for winter in Wisconsin, with perfect alignments, light seams, and abundant PE to model a unique ship some called a white elephant — but one admired by many carrier crews for its defense of the leet. All that PE requires an experienced builder. I spent 300 hours on it —roughly $.50/hour of entertainment — but inishing it in the 30-day review period means I owe some makeup time to keep my bride happy.

– Mark Karolus

Kit: No. A03088 Scale: 1/72 Mfg.: Airfix, www.airfix.com Price: $16.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 65 parts, decals Pros: Easy construction; good fits; detailed cockpit and landing-gear bay Cons: Soft molding of pilot

size and shape. he Revell kit shows more reined surface detail, but Airix’s kit looks superior in every other respect. I spent about 25 hours on mine and enjoyed every minute!

– Mike Klessig www.FineScale.com

69

WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Kitty Hawk AH-6J/ MH-6J Little Bird

W

atching AH-6s in Black Hawk Down piqued my interest in Kitty Hawk’s Little Bird. he kit consists of 278 gray plastic parts and a small photo-etched (PE) fret. Clear parts were separately bagged and scratchfree. Parts are included to build either the MH-6 transport (troop benches and fast ropes) or AH-6 gunship (M134 miniguns, LAU-68 rocket pods, and AGM-114 Hellire missiles). he 23-page instructions have clear illustrations but don’t specify which parts are unique to each version. In the middle of the booklet is a decal placement guide that has nice colored renderings of the birds.

Four decal options are included in the kit

Kit: No. KH50003 Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: Kitty Hawk, www.kittyhawkmodel.com Price: $54.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 287 parts (9 PE), decals Pros: Fine rivets; detailed cockpit and engine with engine with posable doors Cons: Confusing instructions with errors; brittle plastic; stencils wrong color decal options

70 FineScale Modeler May 2018

(three AH and one MH).

Fine moldings highlight the kit, including sharp rivets on the body. Unfortunately, lash and ejector-pin marks mar some parts, and the plastic is brittle, making it diicult to cleanly remove small parts from the trees. Many of the minigun barrels were broken in my kit. he build starts with the pretty complete and nicely detailed Allison turboshaft engine. Swap parts B70 and B71; they are mislabeled in the instructions. he engine doors can be posed open or closed.

All the glass puts the cockpit in full view; Kitty Hawk provides plenty of detail, including PE harnesses for the pilots, MP5 submachine guns for the crew (a nice touch), controls, and decals for the instrument panel.

Steps 6 and 7 are optional, depending on which of the versions you are building.

Choose Step 6 — ammunition boxes and weapon pylons — for the AH-6, which I built. Step 7 provides the side benches for the MH-6.

Step 9 is a bit tricky: In order to it the windscreen, placement of the main interior assembly must be spot on or the control panel will prevent the windscreen from meeting the bottom of the fuselage. Dry-it the fuselage halves over the interior and tape the windscreen in place to ensure everything its before gluing the fuselage together. he M134s assemble from individual barrels, and most of them in my kit were either broken on the sprue or broke during removal. Assembly of the miniguns also was frustrating because the parts are tiny

and the instructions lack detail. (Online references proved invaluable.) If I build another kit, I will replace the M134s with aftermarket parts. he instructions show the ammo belts running over the armament mounts, but they should run under.

In Step 15, the directions have you attach the fast-rope bars, but they are only appropriate for the MH-6; leave them of if you are building the gunship.

I used a little iller on the fuselage seam and where the tail meets the body. Be careful to not sand away any of the inely molded rivets. he inal additions were the diferent antennas and sensors; check references for the correct parts on the bird you are building.

I painted my model using Tamiya NATO black for a faded inish.

Although printed with a lat inish, the decals went on without issues or silvering and reacted well to setting solutions.

However, the stencils should be green, not gray — the color wasn’t changed until the 2000s, and all of the marking options are from the early 1990s. Note also that the color diagrams show some later equipment not used in this kit, including the nose FLIR pod, six-blade main rotor, and fourblade tail rotor.

I spent about 40 hours on Kitty Hawk’s Little Bird, more than I was expecting based on the relatively low parts count. he complexity of the instructions added many hours to the build. Overall, though, I am pleased with how the model turned out.

Experienced builders will enjoy building it.

– Chris Oglesby

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COLPAR’S HobbyTown USA PLANES • ARMOR • CARS • SHIPS • SCI-FI We carry a huge inventory of plastic model kits from around the world! Full Line of Detailing Accessories.

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COMING EVENTS NV, LAS VEGAS: IPMS “Best of the West, Prelude to Phoenix Nationals”. Eastside Cannery, 5255 Boulder Hwy. Saturday May 5, 2018, 9:00am-4:30pm. $10.00 for 3 entries, $2.00 each additional, free unlimited display. On-site model review booth.

Get your models tuned-up for the Nationals. Facebook “IPMS Las Vegas”. Vendors, more info; ipmslv.org or 702-296-9976 VA, FAIRFAX: Northern Virginia Modelers Model Classic 2018. Saturday April 21, 2018, 9:00am-4:00pm, at Fairfax High School, 3501 Rebel Run, Fairfax, VA. Show features Vendors, Contest with over 70 categories, Raffle and Programs.

Contact: Tom Henderson e-mail tomhenderson51@verizon.net.

Web page: www.novaipms.org

72 FineScale Modeler May 2018

CANADA, BRAMPTON, ONTARIO: Torcan 2018 Model Contest. Century Gardens Recreation Centre, 340 Vodden St. E. Saturday, May 26, 2018, 9:00am-5:00pm. General Admission $5.00, children 12 & under free. Contestant Admission: Adult $15.00 includes 3 models, $2.00 each additional entry. Junior $7.00 includes 3 models, $1.00 each additional entry. Hosted

by Peel Scale Modelers. Visit www.TorcanModelShow.com or info@peelscalemodelers.com

FOR SALE ATTENTION KIT BUILDERS: If you are missing a model kit in your collection, check this out! Here are over 500 models, in 1/72 and 1/48 scale, plus over 100 decal sets available to be sold individually at fair prices. For a complete list categorized by scale, send a self addressed stamped envelope and $1.61 to Bob Twistol, 5005 Briar Oaks Circle, Orlando, Florida 32808. Any questions E-Mail them to jetpilotf105@yahoo.com. As an incentive please take 25% off my catalog prices.

AVIATION ART STORE Famous American, Allied and Axis Aviator limited edition prints. Rare signatures of French, Italian, and Japanese aviators. Aviationartstore.com CANOPY MASKING AND MORE! WWW.EZMASKS.COM List $3.00. Chris Loney, 75 Golf Club Rd., Smiths Falls, ON, Canada K7A 4S5. 613-283-5206, ezmasks@gmail.com SHIP AND AIRCRAFT MODELS. Built for display. For additional information contact, Ray Guinta, PO Box 74, Leonia, NJ 07605. www.modelshipsbyrayguinta.com THOUSANDS OF MODEL KITS for sale. All types from Old Aurora to new releases. Send a $.70 SASE to: Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington, Owosso, MI 48867. Specify Military List. Phone: 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: dean@deanshobbystop.com

WOODEN SHIP MODEL KITS: Inside every BlueJacket kit, all the parts are first quality, historically accurate, and exquisitely detailed. They’re produced using the latest laser, photo etching, die casting, and wood shaping technologies. All the parts fit together perfectly - the first time. And, the plans and instructions are clear and concise. These assurances are in every kit and goes out our door. Find out how this attention to quality, authenticity, and detail make a BlueJacket model ship kit a more satisfying simpler build that you’ll be proud of! Move up to wooden ship modeling!

WANTED AIRCRAFT, ARMOR, SCI-FI, FIGURES, AUTO, ETC. Buying kit collections, large or small, worldwide. Top prices paid. Call Jim Banko 610-814-2784 or mail list to 122 Independence Ct., Bethlehem, PA 18020, fax 610-439-4141. E-mail: cth1@prodigy.net I WANT TO BUY YOUR UNBUILT MODEL KITS. Any size collection. Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington St. Owosso, MI 48867. 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: dean@deanshobbystop.com MODEL CAR AND TRUCK KITS. Unbuilt or built. Any size collection. Good prices paid. Please contact: Fred Sterns, 48 Standish, Buffalo, NY 14216. Phone: 716-838-6797. Fax: 716-836-6057. E-mail: fsterns@aol.com

MISCELLANEOUS 1ST AND ABSOLUTELY THE BEST MUSEUM-QUALITY MODELS. IPMS Nationals winner building aircraft and armor to your specification, including conversions and scratchbuilt.

Call BC Models for quote and information at 913-385-9594 or visit www.bcmmodels.com FINESCALE MODELER AUTHOR and IPMS medalist will build your favorite aircraft, specializing in metal finishes. Contact John Adelmann at 563-556-7641 or jjadelmann@yahoo.com

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ALASKA • Anchorage

907-277-7778

ARKANSAS • Jacksonville

Headquarters for scale hobbies. Models; N-HO-O trains; gaming; tools; paints, etc.

Discounts & special orders.

Open 10-6, closed Sundays and Wednesdays www.railandspruehobbies.com

RAIL & SPRUE HOBBIES

501-982-6836

CALIFORNIA • Burbank

818-848-3674

CALIFORNIA • Canoga Park

Kits, plastic & wood, Slot cars & toys.

Rockets, paint, glue and tools. Model trains.

Mon thru Sat 10-6 Closed Sun & Major Holidays. www.scalemodelstuff.com

SCALE MODEL STUFF

818-716-7847

CALIFORNIA • Garden Grove

Rewards program for 10% back on purchases.

Plastic aircraft, armor, ships, cars, decals, books, paints, tools, miniatures war-games.

Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 10-midnight, Sun 11-7 www.brookhursthobbies.com

BROOKHURST HOBBIES

12188 Brookhurst St.

714-636-3580

CALIFORNIA • Hollister

Model planes, car, ships & igures. Model train scales: Z, N, HO, O & G. Paints, tools. R/C & parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, supplies, products. Clinics available. Tu-Sat 116; Sun 12-4. www.debbiebartunek@mac.com

B.C.T. HOBBY & CRAFTS

201-C McCray St.

831-635-0537

Your source for plastic models, diecast and all supplies needed to inish your latest model.

Open 7 Days - Call for Hours www.talbotstoyland.com

TALBOT’S HOBBIES

650-342-0126

COLORADO • Aurora

Large inventory of models from the world over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and supplies. Easy access from D.I.A. http://www.colpar.com

COLPAR HOBBIES

1915 S. Havana St.

Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks. Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games!

Mon-Wed 10-6 Th-Fri 10-9 Sat-Sun 10-6

TIME MACHINE HOBBY

71 Hilliard St.

860-646-0610

HQ HOBBIES

394 New Haven Ave., Unit 1

203-882-1979

FLORIDA • Ft. Myers

Plastic modeling kits.

Paint, tools, scenery, accessories, & scale model railroads.

Mon - Sat 10:00am-6:00pm; Closed Sun www.metrotrainsandhobbies.com

METRO TRAINS & HOBBIES

12951 Metro Parkway

239-332-0422

WELLER’S HOBBYCRAFT

767 Kailua Road

808-262-0211

MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston)

Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, igure kits, games, etc. Shipping available. Info: hobbybunker.com

HOBBY BUNKER, INC.

33 Exchange St.

781-321-8855

MASSACHUSETTS • Norton

6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-i. Reference books & supplies.

Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. www.mymummy. com E: mummy@mymummy.com HARRY’S HOBBIES & COLLECTABLES 250 E. Main St., Rt 123 508-285-8080

MICHIGAN • Owosso Thousands of model kits from old Aurora to new releases. Mon 4pm-7pm, Tues - Fri 11:30am-5pm. Sat 11:30am-4:00pm E-mail: dean@deanshobbystop.com

DEAN’S HOBBY STOP

116 N. Washington Street

800-876-0414

989-720-2137

Ad Index We believe that our readers are as important as our advertisers. If you do not receive your merchandise or a reply from an advertiser within a reasonable period, please contact us. Provide details about what you ordered and the amount you paid. If no action is obtained after we forward your complaint to the advertiser, we will not accept further advertising from them. FineScale Modeler magazine, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187. he Advertiser Index is provided as a service to FineScale Modeler magazine readers. he magazine is not responsible for omissions or for typographical errors in names or page numbers.

New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more. www.michtoy.com MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO. 1400 E. 11 Mile Rd. 248-586-1022

MICHIGAN • Traverse City

MODELCAVE

103 W. Michigan Avenue

734-316-2281

NEVADA • Las Vegas While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories.

Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.

HOBBYTOWN USA

4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103

702-889-9554

NEW HAMPSHIRE • Dover

ELITE HOBBIES

603-749-0800

NEW JERSEY • Kenvil

KENVIL HOBBIES

973-584-1188

NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden) Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft, ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts & tools. Open 7 days

AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS

706 N. White Horse Pike

856-435-1188

NEW YORK • ASTORIA

RUDY’S HOBBY & ART

718-545-8280

NEW YORK • Middle Island Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies.

Books and magazines.

MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.

134 Middle Country Rd.

631-924-0583

Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum.

Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits.

Open 7 days.

JAN’S HOBBY SHOP, INC.

1435 Lexington Ave.

212-987-4765

NORTH CAROLINA • ARDEN Not just trains. Academy Models, AFV Club, Bandai, Hobby Engine, Morgan Cycle, Revell Monogram, Tamiya & More! www.

FactoryDirectTrains.com

FACTORY DIRECT TRAINS

7 GLENN BRIDGE RD STE B

TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES

231-947-1353

800-990-3381

Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint & aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains & sci-i. Special orders welcome!

Tue - Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-5, Sun 1-4:30 Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com

TOP SHELF MODELS

119 S. Main St.

503-644-4535

Full service hobby shop.

Over 6,000 recently acquired models.

All the supplies you need to build your model. www.hillsborohobby.com

HILLSBORO HOBBY SHOP

345 E. Main St.

503-648-3788

Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tue - Thur 10-6, Fri 10-7, Sat 10-4 www.CoolTrains.com

COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES

106 W. Main Street

717-898-7119

HO & N, Lionel trains.

Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies.

Open 11am-6pm M-F, Sat. 10am-5pm www.gandgmodelshop.com

G & G MODEL SHOP

2029 Southwest FWY

713-529-7752

TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)

Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes.

Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7.

Sat 10:30-6. www.malhobby.com

M-A-L HOBBY SHOP

108 S. Lee Street

972-438-9233

TEXAS • San Antonio

Car, Plane, Military, Models, Trains, Paints, Tools, Diecast. Art Supplies, Wood & Wood Models. Open Wed., Thur., Fri., Sat. 11:00 to 6:30.

3516 30TH AVE

TAMMIES HOBBIES

12024 SW Canyon Rd.

TEXAS • Houston

Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details!

590 Rt. 46

Complete full line hobby shop.

Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon - Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.

PENNSYLVANIA • Landisville (Lancaster)

Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors #334 90 Washington St.

OREGON • Beaverton

OREGON • Hillsboro

OKLAHOMA • Owasso

Let your imagination run wild!

Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, model railroading Z to G and more...

210 East Front St.

MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit

Your single stop model building shop.

Michigan’s largest selection of new and vin-tage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5 Visit us on Facebook. www.modelcave.com

NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan

MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit)

CALIFORNIA • San Mateo

445 South “B” Street

CONNECTICUT • Manchester

Wide selection of plastic model kits, paint, books, magazines and tools.

Located on the beautiful windward side, a scenic 20 minute drive from Honolulu.

Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-2

BURBANK’S HOUSE OF HOBBIES

7259 Canoga Avenue

203-869-0969

HAWAII • Kailua, Oahu

Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online www.houseofhobbies.com Secure online ordering

911 S. Victory Blvd.

ANN’S HOBBY CENTER

405 E. Putnam Avenue

Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tues - Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5. www.HQHobbies.com

ANCHORAGE HOUSE OF HOBBIES

1200 John Harden Dr.

Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.

CONNECTICUT • Milford

www.anchoragehouseofhobbies.com Alaska’s best hobby supplier since 1964.

Two stories, 6,300sf, 1st loor all R/C, 2nd loor general hobbies, plastics, trains, slot cars, telescopes & more!

2803 Spenard Rd.

CONNECTICUT • Cos Cob

918-274-0433

Scale modeling from beginner to expert.

A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, igures, ships, & sci-i. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10am-6pm.

DIBBLE’S HOBBIES

1029 Donaldson Ave.

210-735-7721

WASHINGTON • Lynnwood We are a full line hobby shop. Huge model selection. Gundam, supplies, tool, educational, kit, parts, kite, game. Huge selection, paint, train & R/C items. www.galaxyhobby.com

GALAXY HOBBY

19332 60TH AVE W

425-670-0454

WASHINGTON • Seattle

Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models.

Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle! www.skywaymodel.com

SKYWAY MODEL SHOP

12615 Renton Ave. South

206-772-1211

CANADA–ON • Ottawa (Vanier) One of Canada’s leading model shops.

Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories.

Free parking. On Parle Francais.

HOBBY HOUSE, LTD

80 Montreal Rd.

613-749-5245

CANADA–ON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits.

Accessories & inishing products. Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com

WHEELS AND WINGS

1880 Danforth Ave.

416-752-0071

Alpha Precision Abrasives, Inc.___ 9

FineScale Modeler Books _____ 2, 4

Proxxon, Inc. _________________ 6

ARA Press___________________ 8

Glenn Hoover Models ________ 72

Roll Models_______________ 6, 72

Aves Studio __________________ 6

Hornby America _____________ 15

Scale Auto Magazine _________ 71

Colpar’s Hobbytown USA _____ 72

MegaHobby.com_____________ 72

Squadron Mail Order __________ 4

Cult TV Man ________________ 9

Michigan Toy Soldier Co.______ 72

Tamiya America, Inc. _________ 76

Dean’s Hobby Stop ___________ 72

Micro-Mark Tools ____________ 8

TotalNavy.com ______________ 72

Evan Designs _______________ 14

Oldmodelkits.com ___________ 72

Xuron Corporation ___________ 15

Evergreen Scale Models ________ 8

ParaGrafix Modeling Systems __ 15

Fantastic Plastic Models _______ 72

Powercookie Boards LLC _______ 8

www.FineScale.com

73

FINAL DETAILS

By Mark Hembree

At WonderFest, science fiction is real “Fantasy is the impossible made probable.

Science fiction is the improbable made possible.”

– Rod Serling

“Science fiction is something that could happen — but you usually wouldn’t want it to. Fantasy is something that couldn’t happen — though you often only wish that it could.”

– Arthur C. Clarke

“Science fiction is whatever I say it is.”

– John W. Campbell Jr.

T

hirty years ago, running science iction in FSM would draw howls of protest from “traditional” modelers (probably on edge from that nasty glue used for balsa stick-andtissue airplanes). But a generation growing up in the Space Age with Twilight Zone, Outer Limits, Star Trek, and Star Wars (and others of your favorites) was bound to become more receptive to “speculative” subjects — and it has.

A lagship celebration of the fantastic can be found at WonderFest, held annually in Louisville, Ky. What began as a small swap meet for igure modelers in 1990 has grown to a major modeling event showcasing hundreds of breathtaking builds — the skill level is stratospheric.

FSM was there to cover the show last year, and we’ll be there again in 2018. hese photos are a tiny sample from last year.

Who knows what this year holds?

◀ Filmy’s Girls 1/6 scale “Daphne’s Surprise” begs two questions: Who is Daphne, and why is she surprised?

Well, see, she’s a space explorer on her first mission, and … oh, never mind. Matt Mrozek of Plano, Texas, airbrushed metallic green and purple with GSI Creos Mr. Color and used clear urethane and pearl powder for a special sheen. Garage Kits.USA acrylics covered the groundwork and provided the skin tones; Matt applied makeup and shading with pigments.

Magnets in the base and the figure’s feet keep Daphne upright.

More at www.FineScale.com Visit us to see show coverage, and join us at WonderFest, June 1-3, 2018.

74 FineScale Modeler May 2018

▲ Pops Racer designed the Mach 5 car for his son, the Speed Racer of anime automotive fame.

Actually, neither’s name is “Racer” in Japanese — the family name is Mifune, which is what the M on the hood stands for. Brent Bristow of Beebe, Arkansas, added carpet inside the car and wires to the engine of Polar Lights’ 1/25 scale model. He finished with Tamiya paints.

◀ “How cool would it be to be sitting in your own home, on your own couch, watching the latest … cinematic debacle, and right next to you to help ease the pain is your very own wisecracking MST3K robot Tom Servo?” asks MST3K Bots’ product description on eBay. Pretty cool, concluded Chris Barr of Bloomington, Indiana, who finished the Mystery Science Theater 3000 figure with Testors enamels. The model is listed as “life size.”

▶ Scarier than a velociraptor? That would be Cryptovolans, a four-winged carnivore discovered in 2000.

Jeannine Lewis of Hummelstown, Pennsylvania, primed Mike Parks’ 1/6 scale sculpture with Krylon fusion yellow enamel, then blended handbrushed artist’s oils in layers of color and glazes to bring out the detail. It’s science, not fiction — and as terror objects go, it’s hard to top a meat-eating bird that has teeth.

▶ “Cow Stealin’ Aliens” is the title of a kitbashed composition by Steve Hilby of Issaquah, Washington, who says, “My wife wanted a kit with cows in it. So, I built this space pirate ship using a battleship hull and a Twin Mustang kit. The creepy insect legs are from a wargaming miniature.” Steve scratchbuilt the barn in 1/160 scale, then smashed it on YouTube.

That’s right: Search N-scale barn crushing.