fm.12.2016

FineScale.com

Pearl Harbor 75th Anniversary Special December 2016

WE SHOW YOU HOW TO

MODEL HISTORY Hand-paint a Val’s markings p.30 Chuck Davis’ 1/48 Aichi D3A1 Val

Create a USS Arizona vignette p.22

Paul Boyer’s 1/72 Curtiss P-40B

Restore Hollywood’s USS Nevada p.34

Make a heroic P-40 p.26 Finish a realistic Nashorn p.46 Master a gun-truck conversion p.42

60 NEW PRODUCTS p.10 Roden M37

7 KIT REVIEWS / BUILDS p.56 Kinetic Super Étendard

Dragon M60

BONUS ONLINE CONTENT CODE PAGE 3 Vol. 34 • Issue 10

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CONTENTS

ONLINE CONTENT CODE: FSM1612

December /// Vol. 34 /// No. 10

Enter this code at www.FineScale.com/code to gain access to web-exclusive content.

46

© Mr1805 | Dreamstime.com

FEATURES

KIT REVIEWS

16 Form & Figure 56 Kinetic Su-33 “Flanker”

Basic groundwork and water effects JOE HUDSON

58 Dragon M60

19 Airbrushing & Finishing New hope for classic TIE fighters BILL PLUNK

58 Trumpeter Chengdu J-10B

22 22 “Last Liberty”

59 Hasegawa A6M5c Zero

Rob Bracci’s tribute to USS Arizona MARK HEMBREE

60 Roden M37

26 Build a Pearl Harbor defender

60 Kinetic Super Étendard

Refine and detail Airfix’s Tomahawk PAUL BOYER

62 Soar Art 35.5cm M1 howitzer

30 Hand-paint markings on a Val No decals for this dive-bomber CHUCK DAVIS

26

34 Restoring a 1/15 USS Nevada

5 Editor’s Page

John Stewart rebuilds the 38' Tora! Tora! Tora! movie prop MARK SAVAGE

7 Scale Talk

36 Show Gallery

10 New Products

Midwestern Model Ships & Boats

42 Build a Scorpion gun truck Tamiya’s 1/35 scale LRDG vehicle gets a new configuration EDMUND SCHNABEL

30

52 Reader Gallery 54 Reader Tips 55 Questions & Answers

46 Now that’s a Nashorn!

Construction and finishing for a realistic German antitank weapon MIKE KIRCHOFF

64 Classified Marketplace 65 Hobby Shop Directory

66 Final Details That’s no moon!

MARK HEMBREE

IN EVERY ISSUE

34

65 Advertiser Index

FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187.

Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, PO Box 62320, Tampa, FL 33662-2320. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.

In-depth examination of a real M10 led to this exceptionally accurate depiction of the M10 and its sloped armor. Mantlet and transmission covers feature depictions of cast metal surfaces. Fine weld lines are also captured. Driver’s hatch can be assembled open or closed, and has separate periscope parts. Includes 3 figures in authentic pose for use in the turret.

EDITOR’S PAGE

By Mark Savage

Modeling history’s heroes!

I hope you didn’t expect a Christmas column from me this month, a lot of ho-ho-ho and gifts under the tree, carols by the fire, etc.

I know a lot of editors love this month’s issue because it gives them a “free” column, something to hang their stocking caps on, as it were.

This column isn’t that. It’s twofold.

First, this issue we focus on Pearl Harbor. Those two words defined my parents’ generation. And let’s be honest, we all know exactly what went down that day, Dec. 7, 1941. We can hear FDR’s voice booming out the date as if we just heard him yesterday.

But it was 75 years ago. That’s a long time, yet it shows the staying power and impact of that day’s events. The heroism of that day still resonates with the remaining Pearl survivors, their children, and one can hope, our children.

It has never been the focus of FineScale Modeler to glorify the wars

or battles of the past global meltdowns. But it often has been about creating the unique and intriguing vehicles used in those conflicts.

Moreso, it has been about re-creating and remembering the history and heroes who put their lives on the line for their way of life.

Theirs was the ultimate sacrifice, and not to be trifled with.

So our Pearl stories this issue are mostly more than just builds.

Certainly, planes and ships are involved. But there’s a human side behind them too, the heroes that took off in lightly armed P-40s, a diorama depicting the innocent sailors’ last liberty before the USS Arizona was sunk, and a Navy veteran bringing a giant movie-prop battleship back to life to honor its crew.

That’s why the theme. We hope you enjoy it.

tion, as I did a few months back when I inquired about how you cope with aging and still produce models you can be proud of.

The question: - How many unfinished kits do you have in your stash, ones you started, but didn’t finish. And why don’t you always finish a model you start?

We’re all guilty, if guilt is the right word. You get halfway in and something calls you away, but that particular model never calls you back. You move on to another. So why is that?

***

Oh, and happy holidays. I’m no Scrooge!

***

Second, I want to ask you a ques-

editor@finescale.com

Off the sprue: Your favorite fall/winter activity?

Editor Mark Savage msavage@Kalmbach.com

Senior Editor Aaron Skinner askinner@FineScale.com

Associate Editor Mark Hembree mhembree@FineScale.com

Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash enash@FineScale.com

Editorial Associate Monica Freitag mfreitag@FineScale.com

We have an annual ritual of visiting an area apple orchard, but otherwise I must admit to watching a “bit” of football. Thank goodness for DVRs. And once the snow packs down, it’s time to snowmobile!

I’d say modeling, but that’s every season.

Otherwise, I enjoy getting out as days turn cool, looking at fall colors, watching migrating birds, and shoveling snow. So. Much. Snow.

I enjoy the World Series and the Green Bay Packers, in that order. A big pot of chili is great on a frosty day. I’ll take autumn every time.

These long, dark, clear, cold, beautiful nights make for the best stargazing. So what if I’m out there wearing six pairs of socks and all the sweaters in my closet?!

Fall = football. And football (Green Bay Packers) = food. So, nothing better than having a few friends over to watch the game, make some great chili and share a few libations. If the weather holds, an outdoor fire afterward.

www.FineScale.com

5

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Today

Editor Mark Savage Art Director Tom Ford

EDITORIAL Senior Editor Aaron Skinner Associate Editor Mark Hembree Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash Editorial Associate Monica Freitag

ART Illustrator Kellie Jaeger Photographer William Zuback Production Coordinator Cindy Barder

CONTRIBUTING MODELERS Paul Boyer, Federico Collada, Andy Cooper, Raúl Corral, Frank Cuden, Phillip Gore, James Green, Joe Hudson, Rick Lawler, Karl Logan, Harvey Low, Rato Marczak, Chris Mrosko, Bill Plunk, Darren Roberts, Chuck Sawyer, Cookie Sewell, Bob Steinbrunn, Cristóbal Vergara, Jim Wechsler, Adam Wilder

KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO. President Charles R. Croft Vice President, Content Stephen C. George Senior V.P., Sales & Marketing Daniel R. Lance Vice President, Consumer Marketing Nicole McGuire General Manager Brian J. Schmidt Advertising Director Scott Bong Corporate Art Director Maureen M. Schimmel Art and Production Manager Michael Soliday Circulation Manager Cathy Daniels Single Copy Specialist Kim Redmond

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6 FineScale Modeler December 2016

SCALE TALK

Your voice in FSM

Rest in peace, Dan. My thoughts go out to your family and friends!

– Scott Hollingshead Buchanan, Mich.

Star Trek color conundrum The color-scheme listed for the backdated version of Polar Lights’ 1/350 scale Enterprise featured in the May issue is incorrect. Captain Pikes’s starship should be a silverish-gunmetal gray.

The most accurate scheme for the 1966Dan Jayne, the artist 69 version should be Luftwaffe hellblau, It was with great shock and sadness that I created by Star Trek producer, Desilu caught the story and portfolio of Dan Studios, and set designer Matt Jefferies.

Jayne’s magnificent work in the October Here’s a question I would like answered: FSM issue.

A full-size exterior mock-up of the shuttleBack when there was an annual contest craft Galileo II was built by AMT’s Speed at the Kalamazoo Air Zoo, I met Dan. I & Custom Shop in Phoenix for about have always looked at the folks $24,000. It was built for whom I admire as larger than Desilu Productions in “I could life and unapproachable, but exchange for the rights to Dan was neither of those. In market kits of the ship. feel the talking with him, I could feel Shortly after the series was excitement the excitement that he held Galileo II ended up that he held incancelled, for the modeling hobby and a private yard in Van Nuys, for the what he was building.

Calif. But where is it now?

He mentioned that he – John L. Kirk hobby” built cabinets for a living, Forrest City, Ark. and if they can be gauged by what he could do with plastic, they must Ed: AMT built a single mock-up of the be works of art as well!

Galileo shuttle that was repainted as Galileo I had the fortune of seeing nearly every II for a later episode. After years of neglect, the model that you have shown in the magaship was restored by Master Shipwrights in zine live and in-person. They were all on a Atlantic Highlands, N.J., under the guidance level that few modelers are able to rise up of Adam and Leslie Schneider, who won the to and achieve. prop at a 2012 auction. The ship is on display I have always felt in some way enriched at NASA’s Lyndon B. Johnson Space Center. for having met and talked to Dan. The There have been questions about the colors of modeling world is a little worse off without the Enterprise since the show first aired, but him in it. the Smithsonian National Air and Space

Show off your models in style For a while I was struggling with where to put my finished models.

They had taken over several rooms in my house and were gathering dust which enveloped paint and details.

I’ve spent the last 10 years slowly remodeling my home and finding a permanent space for my models was one of my end goals.

I deemed the living room wall a suitable space and considered having custom shelving done, but shied away from the cost. On a visit to Ikea, I found a large, enclosed cabinet from the Regissör line that would work.

I ended up buying four, plus LED lighting, which gave me 16' of lit, enclosed display area. A friend and I worked three days straight assembling and wiring the cases. We ended up with a display that beats my wildest dreams, with plenty of room for me to keep building for years to come.

Problem solved. And the Horton Military Miniature Museum is now open!

–William I. Horton West Hartford, Conn.

Now at www.FineScale.com Book Reviews You can now find book reviews alongside your favorite Workbench Reviews online.

Discover your next enthralling read or learn more about the history behind the model you’re building. Go to “Product Reviews” at the top of the home page and navigate over to “Book Reviews” on the right side of the dropdown menu.

Free desktop wallpaper Jazz up your computer’s look by downloading a desktop wallpaper of Hasegawa’s Mitsubishi A6M5c Type 52 Zero, built by Jim Zeske for Workbench Reviews, featured on p. 59 in this issue.

New Product Rundown Want to know all about a kit before you buy? Turn to the NPRD, the twice-monthly show in which Elizabeth Nash and Aaron Skinner open up the newest kits and show you what’s inside.

www.FineScale.com

7

ARA Press The Spaceship Enthusiasts’ One-Stop Data Shop!

6RYLHW 6PDVKXS Our two titles dealing with Soviet space programs available in this special combination offer.

Peter Alway's Twelve Soviet Missiles, a survey of Soviet military missiles from the 1950’s and ’60s, makes the perfect companion for our critically acclaimed N-1: For the Moon and Mars which tells complete story of the N-1 Superbooster.

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SCALE TALK Museum analyzed paint chips recovered during the recent restoration of the 11' filming miniature. Those results show the colors of the pilot Enterprise to be blue-gray and the production ship gray-green. You can find complete details and paint matches at www. airandspace.si.edu/stories/editorial/revealingcolors-star-trek-enterprise.

Hard-to-find destroyers In the February 2016 FSM, John Hager expressed unhappiness about not finding older destroyer kits. May I suggest that he look at Japanese-based kit manufacturer Pit-Road.

The company has several editions of the Benson-Livermore-class destroyers in 1/700 scale. You can choose between several version of each, so it’s easy to build a series of ships showing the upgrades of the class from the late 1930s through the 1950s when they operated under numerous foreign flags.

A builder could make Taiwanese, Japanese, Italian, or Greek versions with little difficulty and a few minor modifications.

The kits are expensive but worth it.

The same can be said for Pit-Road’s destroyer escorts, which are also easily adapted to show other nations.

I, too, have shared Mr. Hager’s frustration. But the Pit-Road Benson-Livermoreclass destroyers have made my modeling life more interesting. – Paul H. Sayles Misawa, Japan

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Trouble in space Aaron Skinner built a great-looking Eagle from the show Space: 1999, but he’s awfully short on Gerry Anderson facts.

In his Workbench Review in October, he stated that Space: 1999 was Anderson’s “only live-action TV series.� He is mistaken.

UFO was Anderson’s first (and best) liveaction show and ran for two seasons. Space: 1999 resulted from an effort to return UFO for a third season, set 20 years in the future.

A few years after Space: 1999, Anderson returned to live-action TV with Space Precinct. – Mark Lieske Hanover, Pa.

The life and times of Gerry Anderson As a longtime fan of Gerry Anderson’s shows, I can tell you that he had more than one foray into live action.

About 1969, Gerry and Sylvia Anderson produced a feature film that was released in the U.K. under the title Dopplegänger. In the U.S. it was billed as Journey to the Far Side of the Sun. It featured model work typical of Anderson productions such as Thunderbirds and Captain Scarlet.

This was followed by The Protectors, which Gerry Anderson did not create but was hired to helm by Lew Grade. It lasted for two seasons and was very popular in the U.K. and U.S. Space: 1999 was the third live-action TV series the Andersons did. About that same time, they did a series for NBC titled The Day After Tomorrow, which featured two families embarking on a flight to Alpha Centauri and intended to show how relative physics worked in space travel. The Day After Tomorrow, known as Into Infinity in the U.K., featured effects by the same team working on Space: 1999 — it even reused a couple of models from that show’s first season.

The last live-action show Gerry Anderson was involved with was called Space Precinct.

I also have to address the scaling of the new Eagle kit in this missive. The sole reason that 1/24 scale was “assigned� to the 44" Eagle miniatures used in Space: 1999 is because the model makers had the figures from the Revell 1/24 scale Gemini spacecraft lying around, and used them in the cockpit of the model.

If you measure the side hatch of the passenger pod, you’ll find the true scale of that model is likely 1/32 scale. The 22" Eagle kit (which roughly matches the 22" studio models) would be about 1/72 scale, and the old, venerable 12" kit tooled by AMT in 1975 would be close to 1/144 scale.

There is no such thing as a “standard� scale for studio models; they’re built to the size necessary to achieve shots for the show.

When I build my kit, I will be replacing the figures in the cockpit with 1/72 scale Gemini figures I found at Shapeways 3-D printing company to bring the cockpit interior view in line with the true-scale based on the side hatch. – James Fulkerson Aurora, Ill. Ed: Aaron feels properly chastened for failing to give Gerry Anderson his full due. “I’ve heard of UFO for many years, but my limited expo-

sure to the visionary producer’s work was Space:1999 and endless reruns of Thunderbirds and the dozens of spoofs it has spawned,” he says. As punishment, we have revoked his geek card and locked him in an FSM conference room to watch every single episode of UFO, Captain Scarlet, Fireball XL5, Space Precinct, Supercar, and Terrahawks.

How I’m coping I enjoyed the Editor’s Page “Older and wiser: How do we cope?” in the July issue.

Here is how I cope: I use an OptiVisor and make sure I have ample lighting above my work.

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: Pick kits with fewer parts and good instructions, such as those from Lindberg and Revell.

Fortunately my skills have not diminished with age (62 years young) — I actually have more patience (but not more time).

Thank you for a great magazine, which I never miss reading.

–Raymond Zalenski New Haven, Conn.

Ed: Visit www.FineScale.com/coping for reader-submitted tips on modeling as we age.

Clarifications In the October issue’s Reader Tips there was a typo. The tip on painting tires was from Bill Hardie of Jacksonville, Fla.

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* * * Our description of the Iron Modeler contest at WonderFest 2016 (Final Details, October 2016 FSM) contained errors obtained through interviews and poor penmanship. To set the record straight, one of the winning teammates was Matthew Quiroz of Redlands, Calif., Sgt. 1st Class (retired), U.S. Army, 3rd Armored Cavalry Regiment. FSM

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9

NEW PRODUCTS Compiled by Monica Freitag & Aaron Skinner

Spotlight

Snap-together Super Hornet spot on Academy continues to extend the appeal of its kits with multicolored parts, pushtogether construction, and a choice of stickers for markings. But serious modelers should not overlook kits like the 1/72 scale F/A-18F (No. 12535). The first-rate moldings feature some of the most

petite recessed panel lines and rivets we’ve seen.

The consoles and instrument panels show raised features. Full intake trunks end at the front fans and slidemolded exhausts have afterburner details.

A few considerations are given to expedite glueless

assembly, including a onepiece canopy that can only be posed closed, pylons molded on drop tanks, and heavy gear-door attachment points in the wells. On the other hand, those wells have molded structural elements and plumbing.

Decals and stickers provide markings for Super Hornets from VFA-103 Jolly Rogers.

Academy's F/A-18F costs $35. More info: www.modelrec.com

AIRCRAFT KITS 1/144 SCALE

Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner civil airliner

Stuka Ju 87G-1 tank buster from Revell, No.

T-35 Soviet heavy tank from Zvezda,

from Zvezda, No. 7021, $29.99.

85-5270, $13.95.

No. 3667, $49.99. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

1/72 SCALE

C-141B Starlifter from Roden, No. 325, $31.

Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

Pearl Harbor 75th Anniversary Set (3 kits) Limited Edition from Hasegawa, No. 52148,

SU-100 Soviet tank destroyer from Zvezda,

$129.99.

No. 5044, $16.99.

1/48 SCALE

ARMOR KITS 1/35 SCALE

Opel Blitz Tankwagen from Roden, No. 730, $12.50.

Grumman F-14A Tomcat from Tamiya, No. 61114, $115. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

GAZ-233014 Russian Armored Vehicle from Zvezda, No. 3668, $34.99.

10 FineScale Modeler December 2016

1/87 SCALE

SHIP KITS

MISCELLANEOUS KITS

1/87 SCALE

1/72 SCALE Convair SM-65D Atlas from Horizon Models, No. 2001, $34.95.

Soviet T-34-85 in winter camouflage from Artitec/Roman and Company, No. 6201, $37.51.

Resin with photoetch.

German Type VIIC submarine from Artitec/ Roman and Company, No. 50.132, $175.45.

Resin with photoetch, features waterline hull.

1/200 SCALE

AUTO KITS US and UK Sherman M4A4 with flail attachment from Artitec/Roman and

1/24 SCALE

Company, No. 387.117, $46.28. Resin with photoetch.

Kruzenshtern Russian four-masted barque from Zvezda, No. 9045, $89.99.

German Tiger II with Henschel turret in camouflage from Artitec/Roman and

1/500 SCALE

Company, No. 387.17AM, $43.78. Resin with photoetch.

1980 Dodge Ramcharger from Revell,

1/100 SCALE

No. 85-4372, $19.95.

USS Springfield from Renwal/Revell, No. 85-0602, $15.95.

FIGURE KITS 1/32 SCALE Honda NSX from Tamiya America Inc., No. 24344, $53.

Ferdinand German tank destroyer from Zvezda, No. 6195, $4.99.

Lamborghini Miura from Italeri, No. 3686, USAAF Navigator European Theatre Mid to Late WWII from Master Details, No. 32044, JS-2 Soviet heavy tank from Zvezda,

$28.99.

$14.95. For B-17, B-24, B-25 and B-26 bomber aircraft. Includes alternate torso, head, separate 02 mask bladder and type QAC A-3 parachute.

No. 6201, $4.99. www.FineScale.com

11

NEW PRODUCTS Spotlight

Zvezda's Titanic looks like an easy build Few ships capture people’s imagination like the ill-fated RMS Titanic, and modelers are not immune.

There have been scores of kits from dozens of manufacturers in a variety of scales.

Even Zvezda has had one before. So what makes its newly tooled 1/700 scale

Titanic (No. 9036) stand out?

The kit comes molded in three colors and could conceivably be built unpainted to good effect. The kit comprises 150 parts and some of the smaller details, especially deck fittings and equipment, plank detail, and hull plating seem a little too large.

But overall, the shapes look right and the engineering points to straightforward construction. Many of the windows are molded open with minute frames. A small decal sheet provides flags, displacement markers, and hull names, although

those for the bow are misspelled.

Zvezda's Titanic costs $29.99 and would be a perfect first ship kit or a good staring place for a more detailed replica.

AIRCRAFT DECALS

1/25 SCALE

1/32 SCALE

Fast & Furious Dominic's 1970 Dodge Charger from Revell, No. 85-4319, $21.95.

1967 Olds 442 Cutlass Supreme from Lindberg Line, No. HL127/12, $25.99.

British Overseas Airways Corp.

Mosquito FB VI G-AGGC to G-AGGH Leuchars, Scotland May 1943-May 1945

British Overseas Airways Corp.

Mosquito PR IV G-AGFV (DZ411) from Fündekals, $15.

from Fündekals, $18.

1/48 SCALE Luftwaffe Heavy Fighter Crosses Bf 110, Do 17, Ju 88 from Xtradecal/Hannants, 2016 Camaro SS from AMT, No. AMT978M/12,

No. X48166, $6.75.

$24.99. Red.

1958 Chevy Impala from Revell, No. 85-4419,

Luftwaffe Fighter Crosses Bf 109, Fw 190, Me 262 from Xtradecal/Hannants, No. X48165,

$20.95.

$6.75.

1/72 SCALE

Cheverra Z28 (Snap Fit) from AMT, No. AMT1007/12, $22.99. Red.

Dodge Fever from Lindberg, No. HL135/12, $25.99. Lindberg Line.

Correction: In the October 2016 issue on page 13 we listed a load of rough cut 2x4's in resin from G and J Resin. They are a new manufacturer and can be contacted for information and orders at: 6266 Thistle, Saginaw, MI 48638.

Postwar Avro Lancaster 19461950 from Xtradecal/ Hannants, $10.75.

12 FineScale Modeler December 2016

Spitfires Part 1 from Fündekals, 1/72 $14; 1/48 $16 and 1/32 $20.

Luftwaffe Fighter Crosses Bf 109, Fw 190, Me 262 from Xtradecal/Hannants, No. X72252,

1/72 SCALE

$6.75.

Luftwaffe Heavy Fighter Crosses Bf 110, Do 17, Ju 88 from Xtradecal/Hannants, No. X72253, $6.75.

AIRCRAFT DETAILS 1/32 SCALE Tu-22 Blinder Landing Gear (for Modelsvit), from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 72128, $19.95.

MEDIA

Salmson 2-A2 landing gear for (Wingnut Wings), from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 32106, $16.95.

Walk Around #10 AM-1 Mauler from Peregrine Publications, $12.

Hawker Hurricane landing gear (for Fly), from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No 32107, $16.95.

1/48 SCALE

Martin Robson, hard cover, 160 pages, few black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-84486306-8. From Osprey Publishing.

Martin Robson, hard cover, 144 pages, few black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-84486304-4. From Osprey Publishing.

Warship No. 06: Destroyer HMCS Haida, $16.75, by

Britains Toy Soldiers — The History and Handbook 18932013, $50, by James

Business Turbines

Modelers' Guide to the Skyraider, 2nd Edition, $21.95, by

Scale Model Handbook Figure Modeling 17, $16.75,

Jay Sherlock, soft cover, 120 pages, 42 color and black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-0-9851154-4-9.

From Aero Research Co.

soft cover, 52 pages, all color photos, ISSN: 2241-1054. From Mr. Black Publications.

120 pages, color and black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-944367-00-8. From Ampersand Publishing Company Inc.

Kübelwagen and Schwimmwagen — A history of the German Army's multi-purpose vehicles, $22.95, by David Doyle, soft cover, 120 pages, color and black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-944367-03-9. From Ampersand Publishing Company Inc.

Super Étendard landing gear (for Kinetic),

The Hurricane Pocket Manual - All Marks in Service 1939-1945, $15, by

from Aero Research Co., No. 5010, $12.95.

Dragon Wagon Part 2 — A visual history of the U.S. Army's heavy tank transporter 1955-1975, $22.95, by David Doyle, soft cover,

from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 48307, $16.95.

The Mosquito Pocket Manual - All Marks in Service 1941-1945, $15, by

Rindert van Zinderen Bakker, soft cover, 52 pages, color and black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-97890-8616-196-6. From Lanasta.

Mitsubishi A6M Zero, $19, by James D'Angina, soft cover, 64 pages, all blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47280821-9. From Osprey Publishing.

Opie, hard cover, 504 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-1848844445. From Casemate Publishers.

Malaya and Singapore 1941-42 — The fall of Britain's empire in the East, $24, by John Weal, soft cover, 96 pages, all blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47280821-9. From Osprey.

New Manufacturer: Artitec/Roman and Company, 630-365-6340, http://roco.com

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NEW PRODUCTS Spotlight

Unwraping the MaxxPro MRAP

Tape for adding clear parts

Mine-Resistant Ambush-Protected vehicles are a feature of modern battlefields and have been widely used in Iraq and Afghanistan. One of the leading players in the field is Navistar's MaxxPro (maximum protection) family of trucks.

Thousands were built between 2007 and 2011, and their service is covered in MaxxPro MRAP — A Visual History of the MaxxPro Mine Resistant Ambush Protected Vehicle by John Adam-Graf with David Doyle (Ampersand, ISBN 978-1-944367-01-5, $22.95). The 120page softcover is laden with photos of the M1224, M1224A1, M1234, M1235, and M1249 MRAP recovery vehicle. The images include details of the exterior and undercarriage and there are many in-action photos. Useful for modelers are details of add-on armor installed in the field.

More info: www.ampersandpubco.com.

Clear parts pose a problem.

They are inevitably one of the last pieces added and one slip can see the part or the paint marred. Mark Carroll of St. Louis, Mo., came up with a solution based on years of remodeling cabinets. SpeedTape is strong, thin double-sided tape that Mark says can be applied in thin strips to the edge of a windshield or canopy. After removing the backing, press the part into place on the model. “No more glue to mess with,” Mark says. “I keep finding more and more stuff to use this on.” He suggests taking a small piece, removing the backing and rolling it into a thin string. This can be used to attach canopies and windshields and is almost invisible on the finished model. You can obtain a 1⁄16" x 6' roll of SpeedTape for $5 from FastCap, www.fastcap.com, or 898-443-3748. Other widths are available: 1⁄8", 3⁄16", 1⁄4", and 1⁄2".

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MiG-17/19 Aces of the Vietnam War,

Arctic Bf 109 and Bf 110 Aces, $23, by

$23, by Istvan Toperczer, soft cover, 96 pages, all blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281255-1. From Osprey Publishing.

John Weal, soft cover, 112 pages, all blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-78200798-2. From Osprey Publishing.

Nile River Gunboats 1882-1918, $18, by

World War II Infantry Fire Support Tactics,

Angus Konstam, soft cover, 48 pages, all black-and-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-47281476-0. From Osprey Publishing.

$19, by Gordon L. Rottman, soft cover, 64 pages, all black-andwhite photos, ISBN: 978-1-4728-1546-0.

From Osprey Publishing.

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14 FineScale Modeler December 2016

FORM & FIGURE

By Joe Hudson

Basic groundwork and water effects Setting the scene for a shootout

W

hen I finished the Andrea Miniatures 54mm Tom Doniphon that I used to demonstrate leather painting, I wanted to put him on a base that reflected the energy and action of his pose. I envisioned him on a dusty street somewhere out West in a shootout with bad guys. As he stood there brave and defiant, I wanted to show that the other guys’ bullets were missing the mark and wreaking havoc on an innocent water trough!

This base is a little more involved than what most figures need. But good groundwork gives the character context and can even tell a story.

The pedestal was custom made for me by my good friend “Big Al” Presley.

1 After establishing the placement of the scene’s elements, including a resin water trough from Armand Bayardi, I drilled two holes in a square base to anchor the figure.

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In The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance, Tom Doniphon says, “Out here, a man settles his own problems.” Thanks to clever groundwork, Andrea Miniatures’ gunfighter has a place to do that.

2 I scored the base to anchor Apoxie Sculpt. I kneaded together equal amounts of Apoxie Sculpt’s two parts and smooshed it over the surface of the base.

3 I trimmed the edge of the putty flush with the edge of the base.

4 I pressed the trough into the still-soft epoxy to set its position. I wanted to remove it for the next step, so I wet the bottom to prevent it from sticking to the putty.

7 A coat of black primer provided a uniform base for subsequent colors.

10 To distress the trough, I brushed on streaks of flat earth in the direction of the grain. Then I mixed dark sand with flat earth and applied a little to the areas just painted.

5 Before setting the putty aside to dry, I textured it by pressing a rock into the surface. Then I replaced the trough, but again wet the bottom to prevent sticking as the putty set.

8 I misted on Israeli sand gray surface primer as a ground shade as well as a foundation for the dusty wooden trough.

11 A thin glaze of black emphasized the junctions between vertical and horizontal boards. Then I applied Vallejo black wash to the entire trough.

6 I daubed dark earth over the ground with an old paintbrush. The textured groundwork surfacer is an acrylic and easy to remove from the brush or unwanted spots.

9 I applied Vallejo dark brown wash to the base and the inside of the water trough to make the texture pop.

12 I carefully painted thin Model Color black on every rivet and nail. Then, I painted splotches of dark sand with black splotches inside to replicate bullet holes.

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I squeezed still water into the trough and let it sit overnight. It dried crystal clear! This stuff is amazing. But I did not put enough in and did not compensate for shrinkage.

I added water texture. This is a paste; I used an old spatula and brush to get it smooth in the trough. I’m not sure if I used too much, but it did not dry as clear as I would have liked.

To fix the water, I painted it chocolate brown and added more still water. This created the impression of depth in the trough.

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I squeezed a few puddles of clear household caulk onto wax paper, stirred it with a toothpick until it became tacky, then pulled it upward.

Two of the caulk patches became bullet splashes in the water. I attached them with a little more clear caulk.

Using a small bit, I drilled a hole in the trough, making sure not to go all the way through the wall. A small section of the fishing line was then super-glued into the hole.

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A little wash black, mixed with wash dark brown, produced a wet spot on the ground to which I added another caulk splash.

After super gluing fishing line to the caulk, I dabbed more clear caulk around the puddle and on the line. As it dried, I pulled and shaped it with a toothpick.

I brushed on a little off-white to add color to the otherwise clear splashes.

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I used seaweed for grass tufts, but jute twine would also work. Take a few threads and cut them even across the bottom.

I dipped one end in wood glue and pressed it into place. Now’s the time to arrange the blades for realism.

Before attaching the cowboy with 5-minute epoxy, I dusted the ground with a mix of light yellow ochre and natural umber pigments with a soft brush. FSM

Acrylicos Vallejo items used 26.201 Water Texture 26.218 Dark Earth 26.230 Vallejo Still Water 70.847 Model Color Dark Sand 70.872 Model Color Chocolate Brown 70.820 Model Color Off-White 70.983 Model Color Flat Earth 70.950 Model Color Black 73.102 Pigments Light Yellow Ochre 73.109 Pigments Natural Umber 76.514 Model Wash Dark Brown 73.602 Surface Primer Black

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Next issue 73.614 Surface Primer IDF Israeli Sand Grey 76.518 Model Wash Black 76.514 Model Wash Dark Brown 76.519 Model Wash Olive Green Other items: Dap Quick Seal Plus Clear Caulk Aves Apoxie Sculpt Elmer’s Wood Glue Seaweed Ball (from Spain) (can substitute jute twine)

Joe travels to the future and reveals the secrets of painting feminine skin tones on a post-apocalyptic warrior.

AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING

By Bill Plunk

New hope for classic ships Imperial fighters worked over with shading and washes

I

’m sure I’m not alone in saying that Star Wars was a big part of my childhood in the 1980s. For a while my bedroom was nothing but Star Wars, and my action figures got a workout as I relived favorite scenes in the backyard on a regular basis.

That sense of awe at “a galaxy far, far

away” never really faded, and Bandai’s recent release of all-new kits reignited the spark. To revisit that built-in-an-afternoon joy I had as a kid, I built two 1/72 scale kits at the same time: the standard TIE Fighter and the TIE Advanced.

Although the kits are designed to press together, I glued them to ensure strength

and avoid problems with solvent-based paints or weathering techniques. The kits are nearly clones — about 80% identical — so I built them side-by-side, being careful to keep the parts separate and paying close attention to the small differences.

All of the paints used are Testors Model Master enamels unless otherwise stated.

“Several fighters have broken off from the main group.

Come with me!”

– Darth Vader

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1 After cleaning up the cockpit parts, I airbrushed the interiors with RLM 66 schwarzgrau (No. 2079). I added the pilots and controls, then glued the pods, clamping them with rubber bands to ensure a tight bond.

3 I attached the top hatches but left off the windshields for easier masking. Lightly dry-brushed light gray (No. 1732) raises detail at the front of the cockpit.

5 As the first order of business in painting the TIEs, I airbrushed all of the parts flat black (No. 1749). This does double-duty as a primer as well as pre-shading the fighters.

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2 To improve the clarity of the windshields and upper windows, I handbrushed them with Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM). The tough, clear acrylic gloss also protects the delicate clear parts.

4 Working one pane at a time, I burnished blue painter’s tape over the windshields’ molded frames with a toothpick. A new No. 11 blade carefully run along each edge removed excess tape. For the crew hatches on top, I applied small bits of Blu-Tack poster putty, pushing it into corners with a wooden toothpick.

6 The next day, I returned to the bench and spent a lengthy session with my trusty cutting mat and No. 11 blade, creating masks for the solar panels.

7 I airbrushed several light coats of RLM 02 grau (No. 2071), gradually building the density on panel centers to preserve the pre-shading from the black base coat.

9 I painted the bases the same way, but skipped the final layer of sky gray to provide contrast with the ships.

11 The big wings feature a lot of minute detail, so I donned my OptiVisor while applying the wash to them. I couldn’t help but smile as I noticed familiar shapes, such as Bosch headlight mounts, tank-jack halves, and other greeblies used to detail the original studio models.

8 Getting up close with a .3mm airbrush tip, I struck back at the ships and sprayed IJN sky gray in panels and on high points. I sealed everything with PFM in preparation for weathering.

10 Using a pointed 10/0 brush, I applied a pinwash of burnt umber to the fighter’s bodies. A little clean thinner tightened the effect and removed excess or blooming color. I took my time — about 10 hours between the fuselages and wings — getting the detail to really pop.

12 A coat of Testors spray-can lusterless flat knocked down the sheen of the PFM and blended the layers. Then, I removed the masks with tweezers to avoid scratching or damaging the clear parts. The kits’ precise engineering forced me to remove paint from the wing joins to be able to slide them into place. FSM www.FineScale.com

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“Last Liberty”

Enlisted men stand in ranks, turn out to salute the officer of the deck and the flag at the stern, then clamber down the accommodation ladder to a launch and a short ride to Honolulu. Business as usual — for one last day.

Rob’s 1/48 scale vignette forces perspective with compressed depth and “demi modeling” (such as the halved Kingfisher) to emphasize the foreground and, thus, the figures.

Rob Bracci’s tribute to the men of the USS Arizona /// BY MARK HEMBREE

W

ith an unrelenting dedication to research and detail, Rob Bracci spent 10 years building a diorama to portray one moment in a day in the life of a U.S. Navy battleship.

Officers on deck, performing their customary duties … sailors going about their usual jobs up and down the ship … another contingent decked out in whites, queuing up for liberty on a Saturday evening. The scene would be ordinary, even mundane, except for the place and time: USS Arizona, Pearl Harbor, Dec. 6, 1941.

No further dramatic device is needed. In context,

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each of the 97 figures is worthy of regard and every detail is important. Indeed, that may be why it took Rob so long to complete this project. Considering his lifelong interest in World War II, and Pearl Harbor in particular, who could blame him for not letting go of the moment?

“Just another day in paradise with the Pacific Fleet,” Rob says. “Arizona’s crew was anticipating another routine weekend within the safety of the Pearl anchorage and the prospect — at least according to scuttlebutt — of being sent stateside for the holidays. Sadly, for most aboard it was not to be.”

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Rob’s battleship started with scale plans and several 2'-long plasticfoam 2" x 4" blocks. Choosing 1/48 scale opened a lot of possibilities for figures, but the whole ship would have been 12.5' long! Instead, he showed the stern with its nameplate for instant recognition.

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Rob sheathed the foam form in 1⁄16" basswood sheet to which he super glued .010" sheet styrene to plate the hull. He scratchbuilt most of the ship’s fittings from styrene sheet, strip, tube, and structural forms, adding Grandt Line bolts and brass elements to the aircraft catapult.

The boat boom was a bamboo chopstick.

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Basswood planks ⁄ " thick cover the deck. Rob used more than 10' of scale chain for lifelines spanning the quarterdeck.

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5 Brass railings and fittings were formed in segments and soldered …

Rob carved basswood masters to vacuum-form cabin enclosures for Arizona’s auxiliary boats, which he made from styrene sheet and strip.

6 … before being installed on the auxiliary boats. Rob painted textured acrylic sheet for water and floated the boats on two-part epoxy.

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7 Despite all of Rob’s shipbuilding, the stars of his show are the figures — all 97 of them! He collected a variety in 1/48 and 1/50 scale, then used his razor saw to mix and match parts.

9 Nearly all the figures were modified in one way or another for the variety of poses needed in the scene. Rob made the accommodation ladder from styrene rod and strip; surgical tape stiffened by diluted white glue served for the windbreak.

11 … and there were Navy officers and Marines yet to come. He made their hats from styrene sheet and strip.

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8 The 1/48 scale figures from K-Lineville’s “Presidential” collection were difficult to work with, Rob says, but useful for the enlisted ranks. He used epoxy putty for bellbottoms and sailor caps, adding .002" styrene strip to the cap brims.

10 Seeing most, but not quite all, of the figures gives some idea of the scope of Rob’s undertaking. Rob made more than 80 sailor caps …

12 Good thing Rob used forced perspective, compressing the depth of his display. That Plexiglas case is big enough as it is: 49" long, 17" high, and 12" deep.

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Sailors head aft to set up a canvas awning on the fantail for the next morning’s Sunday services (which were never held). Forcing perspective, Rob sawed off Monogram’s OS2U Kingfisher at 1 o’clock and 5 o’clock on the port side — not quite a wall mount, but almost — and shortened the starboard wing. Decals are from AeroMaster.

Rob’s figure conversions and attention to detail enabled him to convey the upbeat mood as sailors scamper down the ladder, share plans, trade jibes, and get set for a night of liberty in Honolulu — for many of them, their last.

15 Acknowledging debates of the final paint scheme, Rob went for sea blue (5-S) and painted the turret top insignia red. Among the numerous oftrepeated scratchbuilt details are the 27 portholes, each made from two pieces of telescoping styrene tubing and a window punched out of clear styrene. Time-consuming, yes — but Rob was willing to spend 10 years in his desire to honor the 1,177 who perished on the Arizona. FSM www.FineScale.com

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Build a Pearl Harbor defender Refine and detail Airfix’s 1/72 scale Tomahawk /// BY PAUL BOYER

I

n late 1941, the Curtiss P-40 was the U.S. Army Air Forces’ top-of-the line pursuit plane. Improved D and E models were just being delivered, but most pursuit squadrons were outfitted with the P-40B and similar C models. Such was the case with the 47th Pursuit Squadron based at Wheeler Army Air Field, in the center of the island of Oahu, Hawaii. In fact, the only air-to-air defense mounted against the Japanese attack was flown by pilots in P-40s and a handful of P-36 Hawks.

Which kit?

Airfix’s 1/72 scale Hawk 81-A-2, the British designation for early P-40s, is detailed, accurate, and easy to build. But it’s not perfect, and there are a few improvements that can be made.

I started by removing a mold-parting seam across the gun fairing and carburetor 26 FineScale Modeler December 2016

intake piece, 1. I simply folded a piece of 400-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and sanded the seam away, 2. The kit’s plastic is soft, so it didn’t take much to make it right, 3.

Next, checking photos in my main reference (Dana Bell’s Aircraft Pictorial 5, P-40 Warhawk, Classic Warship Publishing, ISBN 978-0-9857149-4-9), I found that

most early P-40s had their cowl flaps open when parked. Airfix provided optional opened and closed cowl flaps, but the opened one looked toothy, with wide-open gaps between the flaps, 4. I glued small squares of .010" styrene strip inside the flaps for a more-realistic appearance, 5.

Getting inside The kit interior is basic but adequate for the scale. I painted the cockpit floor, the fuselage halves’ interiors, and seat with Testors Model Master interior green enamel, 6.

When it was dry, I followed it with several coats of Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface

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A mold-parting seam mars the top deck of the P-40 nose.

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Paul folded 400-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper to get between the gun fairings and carburetor scoop.

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The kit’s open cowl flaps look “toothy.”

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Small squares of .010" styrene strip close the gaps.

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A wash of dark gray will add visual depth to the interior.

Excess wash is removed with a damp cotton swab, leaving recesses dark.

Finish (PFM). When that was dry, I belts would look better — but I was modelflooded a dark gray sludge wash made of ing on a budget. acrylic model paint, water, and dish soap, 7.

Before closing the fuselage, I dryAfter it had dried for a half hour, I removed brushed silver enamel to accent raised detail the excess with a moistened cotton swab, 8, and edges, 10 and 11. leaving the dark wash in the deepest The kit comes with a separate rudder, recesses and corners. A clear allowing the builder to flat coat sealed the deal. offset it for a more The pilot’s seat lacks seat realistic appearance. belts (shoulder harnesses Nice touch, but the rudRatio of came later), so I quickly der-post swing arm is Japanese to made some with brown molded as a solid triangle acrylic paint on Bare-Metal on the rudder. I improved American Foil, leaving an unpainted it by opening it with a aircraft end to represent the fasfine bit in a pin vise and a destroyed at teners, 9. sharp blade, 12. Now that’s Sure, photo-etched better, 13.

Pearl Harbor.

29:169

– National WWII Museum

3 Seam is gone!

6 Paul painted the cockpit interior green before assembly.

9 Lap belts were made from painted strips of Bare-Metal Foil.

Challenging canopy With the interior dressed up, I wanted to show it off. The kit’s canopy and windshield are molded as one piece with separate rearview panels. I didn’t want to resort to an aftermarket vacuum-formed canopy, so I separated the windscreen by carefully cutting it apart with a razor saw, 14.

The windscreen on early P-40s was laminated, curved sections of shatterproof glass (left, middle, and right), with only an aluminum bow frame at the back. Airfix simulated the lamination seams with ridges molded inside. But there should be more detail. By the time of the attack on Pearl Harbor, P-40s were being fitted with rudimentary reflector gunsights. The instrument www.FineScale.com

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Lightly dry-brushing silver enamel accents high points and edges.

Here’s the finished right side of the cockpit.

The rudder post swing arm realism was enhance by drilling it out with a small bit and refining the shape with a sharp blade.

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Now the swing arm looks like a swing arm.

Paul used a fine razor saw to separate the canopy from the windscreen.

Yikes! Paul drilled tiny holes in the windscreen to mount the gunsight reflector panel.

was mounted on the cockpit floor and projected a sighting grid to a small, flat glass panel which reflected the grid to the pilot’s eye. The panel was bolted to the inside of the middle section of the windscreen.

I do love a challenge! Using a No. 80 bit in a pin vise, I drilled four holes in the kit windscreen, 15 (a cringe-worthy task), and corresponding holes in a leftover piece of thin acetate. For the tiny bolts, I threaded pieces of .20mm black monofilament fishing line, 16, and inserted the lines through the holes in the windscreen from inside. I anchored it with tiny drops of gap-filling super glue and trimmed off the excess lines.

(More on the windscreen later.)

I started the canopy frames by masking the glass panels with Bare-Metal Foil.

After burnishing the foil tight to the frames, 17, I used a sharp blade around the edges of each panel (cringing again) and peeled the foil off the framing, 18. I like to paint the inside color of the canopy frames first. (No, I don’t mask them on the inside of the canopy, just paint the inside color from the outside first, protecting the inside surfaces with tape, 19.) I follow that with the outside color. The inside color remains visible through the clear plastic, even when viewed from outside. When the paint was dry, the foil was removed from the clear panels.

Paint job

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angle so the pilot wouldn’t see an additional The P-40s were painted in the simple stangunsight image. I used .020" styrene rod for dard of olive drab tops with neutral gray the cross brace. undersides. I painted the gray, then masked Finishing up the demarcation lines on the fuselage with tape, curling the edges slightly to soften the After applying a couple of coats of PFM, I lines, 20. With everything masked, the top- applied decals. I chose markings from a side olive drab went on quickly, 21. sheet representing a P-40B flown by 2nd At this point, I realized that the sliding Lt. Kenneth Taylor on Dec. 7, 1941. I used section of the canopy was not going to fit in that sheet’s numbers and letters, but chose the open position over the razorback of the national insignia from my library of decal fuselage. Later Airfix kits have a separate, sheets. slightly larger canopy you can use for this.

I used the dark sludge wash on the conBut here, I was forced to file down the trol-surface hinge lines, then applied a clear razorback a bit to allow the canopy to sit flat coat overall. The propeller blades were right, 22. Once the canopy is placed, the painted with Alclad II polished aluminum lowered area isn’t noticeable. over gloss black, with maroon antiglare rear Back to the windscreen: To protect the surfaces. pilot from oncoming fire, an armored glass I attached the canopy pieces with panel was mounted inside the windscreen Elmer’s clear glue. The radio antenna wires to the cross brace at the top and to brackets were made with super-fine (.10mm) monoabove the instrument filament glued to panel. I painted the predrilled holes edges of another in the wingtips “So I got a little bit of piece of acetate with and fuselage. shrapnel in my leg and interior green, and Airfix’s little through the arm. It was of used Elmer’s clear P-40B is a fine repno consequence; it just glue to hold it in resentation of the place, 23 and 24. first American built scared the hell out of me The armored aircraft to see success for a minute.” glass was in aerial battle — the – Kenneth Taylor, about being mounted at an first defenders! FSM wounded during the attack on Pearl Harbor (from a 2001 Army Times interview)

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Here’s the reflector panel with monofilament “bolts” installed. They’ll be trimmed back after installation.

Paul uses Bare-Metal Foil for masking around canopy frames.

Peel the foil away from the frame lines and you’re ready to paint.

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Spraying the interior color onto the frames first shows that color inside.

Curling the edge of the masking tape helps soften the color demarcation line.

The olive drab topside was easy to apply — the difficult masking was already done.

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To get the sliding canopy to sit right, Paul had to file down the razorback a bit.

The finished canopy and windscreen with its armored glass panel and gunsight reflector installed.

The canopy goes on next to last, followed by radio antenna lines.

Kenneth M. Taylor an effort to disperse Wheeler’s aircraft in case of hostilities.

After dropping the planes, the two pilots got a ride back to Wheeler, and on Saturday evening, Dec. 6, they were out dancing and playing poker.

They didn’t turn in until nearly dawn on Sunday morning but awoke with the attack on Pearl Harbor and Wheeler. They were able to call Haleiwa to have ground crews ready the fighters for combat.

They raced north to Haleiwa in Welch’s Buick.

Without orders, they were able to take off immediately and engage the attackers. Taylor shot down two Aichi Val divebombers, and Welch downed four. For their heroic actions, both pilots were awarded the Distinguished Service Cross.

After a 31-year career in the U.S. Air Force, Taylor retired as a brigadier general in 1971. He died in 2006.

U.S. Army photo

In June 1941, U.S. Army Air Forces 2nd Lt. Kenneth Taylor was assigned to the 47th Pursuit Squadron based at Wheeler Army Airfield, Hawaii.

Just a day or two before the Japanese attack, Taylor and 2nd Lt. George Welch were ordered to move two P-40s from the base up to a small auxiliary airfield at Puaena Point, near Haleiwa on the north coast of Oahu, 16 miles from their home base. This was

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Hand-paint markings on a Val Skip the decals to finish a Japanese dive-bomber /// BY CHUCK DAVIS

D

espite being nearly 20 years old, Hasegawa’s 1/48 Aichi D3A1 “Val” (kit No. 9055) holds up well. A decent interior, precise panel lines, and excellent fit make it an easy build. Throw in brilliant markings for the

lead dive-bomber from the Soryu on Dec. 7, 1941, and you have a colorful addition to any collection.

The number of decals in the kit made me question my ability to not only align the markings but make them appear realistic. I

1 After eliminating a few ejector-pin marks on the cockpit parts with a rounded blade and a motor tool and applying gray primer, I airbrushed AK Interactive Nakajima interior green (AK-2068).

30 FineScale Modeler December 2016

decided the best way to make them look painted-on was to, well, paint them on. The Japanese national marking is a simple red circle, so I tried something new to cut the masks — a compass with a knife blade in place of the pencil.

2 Rather than using the kit’s plain instrument-panel decals, I used a white pencil to highlight the excellently molded gauges.

3 A bit of patience, acrylic paint, and a handful of toothpicks for applicators made the instrument panel a focal point.

5 After painting the engine with Testors Model Master Metalizer burnt metal (No. 141501), I applied a wash of Ammo of Mig Jimenez fresh engine oil. The crankcase is neutral gray; I dry-brushed the push rods and their ends with different metallic shades.

7 It pays to check the parts as you go to avoid problems. I discovered ejector-pin marks on the bomb fins; I eliminated them with filling and sanding.

4 Hasegawa’s Val has plenty of cockpit detail, including walls, seats, panels, and radios. Careful painting of the detail makes it stand out.

6 Even on an out-of-the-box build, basic improvements beef up realism. I bored out the ends of the exhaust stacks with a drill bit in a pin vise.

Twisting a No. 11 blade in the hole thinned the ends.

8 To mask the markings, I used thin masking tape, painter’s tape, tweezers, a compass with a knife attachment for cutting circles, and a photocopy of the decal sheet to help with the swoops on the landing-gear spats. www.FineScale.com

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9 After painting the camouflage of Japanese navy green over gray, I outlined the tail with thin strips of masking tape in preparation for red paint. Blue painter’s tape filled the large areas behind.

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10 There are a couple of ways to paint the national markings. You can spray red first and mask with a circle of tape before spraying the camouflage, or you can do what I did and spray red over the camouflage through a circle.

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A blade in a compass makes quick work of circular masks. But let the blade do the work by making several light passes; pressing on the blade to speed the process makes the circle less precise. Use tape wide enough for the entire marking to prevent a step at the join.

I placed a photocopy of the decal sheet over tape and carefully cut through both the paper and tape to create masks for the wheel spats.

The hardest part was placing the masks on the spats without distorting the shape of the tape.

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Take your time and constantly check the position when placing the masks. I used panel lines to align the wing markings. Once all of the masks were on, I sprayed a light coat of Testors Model Master Acryl clear flat (No. 4636) to seal the edges and prevent paint bleed.

Then I primed each location with Tamiya medium gray (XF-20) to give the red the same base, because most reds are a little translucent and show underlying colors. I wanted the red to be a little duller than the decals. Hence, gray rather than white.

32 FineScale Modeler December 2016

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To further dull the red, I mixed hull red (XF-9) into flat red (XF-7) until it looked right. Then I airbrushed it over the masked circles, tail, and landing gear.

Success! Careful removal of the masks revealed sharp lines and national insignia that really look painted on.

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Next, I masked the tail’s yellow markings, referring to the decals to determine precise dimensions. After outlining each stripe with thin strips of tape, I covered the rest with painter’s tape. There’s also a yellow stripe on the fuselage that I thought would be simpler to paint separately.

Painting the stripes started with the same two steps I used for the red: clear flat to seal and a medium gray base coat. A final light coat of Tamiya flat yellow (XF-3) produced a slightly toned-down finish.

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I took off the masks to expose nice, clean edges between the red and yellow — the clear is doing its job perfectly. It pays to check and recheck the alignment of the mask before painting, because you can’t slide paint around like you can a decal!

To mask the fuselage stripes, I used the leading edge of the fin and the national marking to set the angle of the front edge of the first, then laid thin tape along the line. Next, I cut a piece of tape the width of the stripe and placed it along the thin line to set the line of the rear edge, which I marked with thin tape. The rest were similarly marked. FSM www.FineScale.com

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Visit www.finescale.com to view more photos.

Restoring a 1/15

USS Nevada John Stewart rebuilds the 38' Tora! Tora! Tora! prop /// BY MARK SAVAGE

T

he battleship USS Nevada BB-36 was a “lucky” ship on Sunday, Dec. 7, 1941: It got underway and fought back against the Japanese attack at Pearl Harbor.

But it took a torpedo and at least five bombs before being beached at Hospital Point that bloody day, while its sister ship, the USS Oklahoma capsized in port from heavy damage.

The Nevada’s daring struggle became part of Navy lore and was brought to the movies in the dramatic 1970 movie Tora! Tora! Tora! Film sequences for the movie that were shot at the “sky pool” on the 20th Century Fox ranch in Malibu, Calif., feature images of the 1/15 scale model of the Nevada created by the studio’s artists.

That’s where John Stewart comes in.

Fate sometimes plays a bigger role in life than we may be willing to admit.

Stewart, of Culver City, Calif., turned 75 this year, the same as the anniversary of the Pearl Harbor attack. He’s a former Navy seaman, a gunner’s mate, later loader, pointer, and finally in charge of the officer’s boat aboard the USS Helena CA-75.

34 FineScale Modeler December 2016

After his Navy service he became a successful sign painter in California and made architectural models. It was through that connection that Dave Rupp of the Quarterdeck Society found him and asked that he restore the 38'-long USS Nevada movie prop.

Stewart spent 11 months refurbishing the model, which had languished outside in

the movie studio’s boneyard and later the Navy Weapons Center in Seal Beach, Calif., after the giant replica was purchased for $1 by Cmdr. Walter Ritter, a U.S. Navy veteran and Pearl Harbor survivor. The Ritter family later donated the ship to the Quarterdeck Society.

All that outdoor time had done the model no favors. Its decks were plywood, its bulkheads pine, both now rotting. Its railings and cranes were steel, now well rusted.

Boy Scouts had been allowed to slather paint on the big ship over the years, too.

A giant task Stewart’s task was monumental, thanks to the wood rot, termites, mold, and rust that was consuming the ship. But he was honored to be asked.

Wood rot was a serious problem with the movie prop, as it sat outside for years.

Stewart replaced much with Plexiglas and covered it with acrylic auto spray paint.

The ship’s 10 guns were cast in silicone molds.

Stewart used as much of the original metal as possible, having it sandblasted, but replaced brass railings.

Stewart made a master copy of a lifeboat, then had others vacuum-formed from it.

“I fell in love with the damn thing,” he “I was just trying to save a bit of history, says, now that the ship is 90% restored. Just and modeling history, too,” says Stewart, small items like life rafts and some figures who was blown away at the ship’s size when are still to be added.

Rupp first took him to see it in an equally He hand-scraped at least half the ship’s huge building at the Seal Beach facility. paint off and had the rest, including the “My biggest problem wasn’t the rehab steel, sandblasted. Bulkheads were replaced but finding a building to use as a workwith Plexiglas, as were superstructure decks. shop,” he says. While the ship model is New plywood was used for the main deck, back there now, he was not able to restore it while the funnel, railings at the Navy facility. and cranes remained the Luckily, two original steel. Guns were months in, he found rebuilt. a spot within a few $5.9 million to build in 1912 Luckily, Stewart says, miles of his home. The Won 7 battle stars the fiberglass hull was in owner was a military 2,220 man crew in 1945 great shape, although he veteran who rented him added props and rudders. the space for just $1 a 583' long “Nothing below the month. Not easy to get a 95' 3" beam waterline was finished, 38'-long, 12'-high model 28.5' draft since it wouldn’t show in and out of most buildin the movie. ings or through very many Sunk by Navy July 31, 1948

USS Nevada

doors.

Meanwhile, the Quarterdeck Society, a nonprofit charity, acquired a trailer to transport the ship. That means Stewart’s hard work, often 10- to 12-hour days, can travel safely to shows for the enjoyment of Navy history buffs and modelers.

Stewart says the ship is occasionally in parades and displayed at three or four Southern California shows each year. The Quarterdeck folks who accompany it are all volunteers, so shows have to fit into their schedules.

The Quarterdeck Society paid for all materials used in upgrading the model, and Stewart was paid modestly for his efforts.

But its refurbishing is never really done.

The group continues to seek donations for its “Go Fund Me Nevada 36” program.

To donate, or for more info, go to: http://uss-nevada.com/ FSM www.FineScale.com

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SHOW GALLERY

Midwestern Model Ships & Boats Contest It’s easy to find the Wisconsin Maritime Museum. Go to Manitowoc, Wis., drive downtown, find the Manitowoc River, and look for a Gato-class World War II submarine.

You really cannot miss it.

In summer 2016, the museum hosted the 41st annual Midwestern Model Ships & Boats Contest and Display.

No other museumaffiliated show in the U.S. has run as many consecutive years.

FSM editors Mark Hembree, Elizabeth Nash, and Aaron Skinner photographed dozens of great models and got a tour of the USS Cobia, which in November 1943 slid sideways into the Manitowoc River just a stone’s throw away from the museum where it is moored.

The Wisconsin Maritime Museum in Manitowoc, Wis. Tina Prigge photo.

▲ GUS AGUSTIN

ARLINGTON HEIGHTS, ILLINOIS Gus scratchbuilt the first-rate, 100-gun ship of the line HMS Royal William in its 1719 iteration, which actually was the second rebuild of the ship launched in 1670 as HMS Prince. It was renamed Royal William when it was rebuilt in 1692. It was rebuilt again, relaunched in 1719, but saw no further service before it was downgraded to a second-rate, 84-gun ship in 1756. Gus’ build replicates one of the Admiralty models of the time.

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KEN GOETZ FRANKLIN PARK, ILLINOIS Ken built Blackbeard’s pirate corsair from Mamoli’s 1/57 scale kit, but with an important twist — he didn’t use the wood supplied in the kit. He substituted walnut and maple to build his interpretation of the early 18th century ship. He brush-painted with Model Shipways colors, masking with auto-detailing tape, and finished with Testors Dullcote.

AL BUTKUS WAUKEGAN, ILLINOIS So, what’s a catboat? The New England style has a shallow draft, wide beam, and can be manned by one person with a hand free for a lobster trap. The fishing boat became popular for recreation and, for a time, racing. Al built his out of the box from Midwest’s 1/32 scale kit and hand-brushed it with lacquers. No weathering, but a light coat of lacquer kept the sail from looking too pristine.

▲ SAMUEL PARENT

WINONA, MINNESOTA From a Mississippi River city, Samuel knows whereof he builds: He made an “upper Mississippi packet, circa 1880” from Model Shipways wooden 1/48 scale Chaperon, adding scratchbuilt tools, cargo, utility boats, and wheelhouse interior. He also made the “monkey rudders” and head rigging. The stern wheeler is hand-painted with Vallejo acrylics.

▶ DAN CICERO

AURORA, ILLINOIS “It’s a typical 26 ' Royal Navy longboat from the mid-18th century,” says Dan. “These boats were used for all kinds of routine ship’s work.” Dan hand-painted with Testors Model Master acrylic paints, using Tamiya tape for masking. He painted subassemblies (such as the masts) off the model whenever he could. Most of the rigging was handmade on a scale ropewalk tool. ◀ PAUL WILSON

HESSEL, MICHIGAN Paul scratchbuilt a “row/outboard boat of 1910” in 1/8 scale. He says, “The model is a typical rowboat from the Les Cheneaux Islands in northern Lake Huron. It illustrates the resort boats used for fishing and duck hunting” in the popular vacation area.

www.FineScale.com

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CHUCK BAUER NORTH OAKS, MINNESOTA Trumpeter’s 1/200 scale kit was only the starting point for Chuck’s USS Arizona. He added several aftermarket sets and scratchbuilt fittings as well as plank-onplank decking. Using Tamiya and Vallejo acrylic paints and Testors Model Master enamels, Chuck airbrushed large areas and hand-painted details to show the ship as it appeared on Aug. 11, 1941.

▶ GORDON STILLER

OMRO, WISCONSIN Gordon chose a local topic when he picked the minesweeper USS Vigor, laid down in June 1952 at Burger Boat Co., just upriver from the museum in Manitowoc. He scratchbuilt the minesweeper in 1/87 scale and painted it with acrylics. Vigor was decommissioned in 1972 and sold to Spain, where it was renamed Guadiana.

◀ DWIGHT WORKINGER

WEST ALLIS, WISCONSIN “Hitler’s last hope, but too few and too late,” is how Dwight characterized the German Type XXI U-boat. He hand-painted Revell Germany’s 1/144 scale model with Testors Model Master enamels and artist’s ink pens, and used face makeup for weathering powder. Aluminum tubing gave depth to the torpedo tubes. The German flag is a decal applied to foil. Dwight used styrene rod for the handrail stanchions, and “a good friend supplied her golden locks for the handrails,” he says.

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▲ RICHARD ROMANIAK

▼ DAVE RICHEY

DES PLAINES, ILLINOIS

FREETOWN, INDIANA

It was exquisite modeling of Le Superbe by Richard, who made a composite wood and plastic build of Heller’s 1/150 scale kit. Superbe was a Téméraire-class 74-gun ship of the line in the French navy.

Using the hull from Lindberg’s 1/32 scale PT 109, Dave scratchbuilt the 68' Vosper MTDV (mobile torpedo discharge vessel) HMS Bloodhound, which served as a training boat for British torpedo crews. He used Tamiya and Italeri parts for various fittings. FSM

This realistic configuration has a Breda gun sitting in the cargo bed. Edmund placed his truck on “The Ancient Road” base from Monroe Perdu Studios.

Convert a command car to a

Scorpion gun truck

Tamiya’s 1/35 scale LRDG vehicle gets a new configuration /// BY EDMUND SCHNABEL

A

lthough manufactured in Canada, the Chevy 30 CWT 4 x 2 truck proved useful in the harsh North African desert during World War II. Behind enemy lines, the British Long Range Desert Group (LRDG) used these vehicles for reconnaissance and raiding, sometimes capturing the prized Italian Breda gun.

Tamiya originally made the command car in the 1970s and has re-released the kit bundled with an Italeri Breda 20/65 anti-aircraft gun (No. 89785). What is interesting is Tamiya’s decision to include the anti-aircraft gun in a towed configuration. It would be uncommon for the Chevy 30 CWT to move at the slow pace of 13 mph in order to tow the fragile Breda. Instead, the gun was mounted in the rear cargo area. Vehicles with this arrangement came to be known as Desert Scorpions.

Building and prepping To make these modifications, I would have to move the Lewis gun to the front passenger-side fender and perform major surgery on the rear cargo area.

42 FineScale Modeler December 2016

I decided to assemble and paint the chassis, cab, cargo bed, and weapon separately before putting everything together.

When working with the chassis, I was impressed with the quality of the details —

but not so impressed with the prolific molding seams. I treated the sanding procedure as a meditation exercise. Hours later, I had all the mold seams removed and the chassis completed. I built up some texture on the transmission and undercarriage by liberally stippling Mr. Surfacer 1000 with a stiff brush. This prep paid off during the painting and weathering stages.

The kit’s vinyl tires had horrible seams across the tread. I had read about how difficult they were to paint, and how they cracked over time, so I ordered a set of six resin replacement tires from R & J Products. They cleaned up beautifully with minimal work.

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The fine details on the cab must have stunned people in the 1970s. Well done, Mr. Tamiya!

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I grooved the sides with a razor saw to simulate wood grain.

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The gun fit over the mounting tray in the rear cargo area that was originally designed to mount the Lewis gun pedestal.

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I painted and weathered subassemblies individually so I could eat my elephant one spoonful at a time.

The cab built up quickly and simply — a wonderful testament to Tamiya engineering. The end result belies the ease of assembly. I was also impressed with the detail of the bench seat — still quite impressive after 30 years, 1.

The kit-supplied headlights lacked detail. Instead, I used ELF Belarus’ fourpiece system, which includes the body of

It is important to not use any solvent or super glue on the lights to avoid clouding, or crazing, the clear plastic.

Opaque coats of Vallejo cavalry brown (VJ70982), misted over the components, provided that rusty-primer look.

the headlight, a reflective insert (that can be removed for painting and then replaced), a plastic light bulb, and a plastic light cover. I added a transitional piece around each headlight, cut from thin strips of yogurt foil to simulate a dented bezel, 2.

The cargo bed proved more challenging because it was necessary to cut the frames down to the metal sides and drill out the

stake holes in preparation for scratchbuilt staked sides.

After quite a bit of research, I made three planks for the bed. I used .60" x .60" square styrene stock for the uprights, and .015" x .100" styrene for the planks, 3.

To leave room for the gun, I did not install the stowage bin or radio. I used Evergreen plastic card to fill in the radio www.FineScale.com

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I used Silly Putty as a mask, which works great because it doesn’t stick to the paint and can be used multiple times.

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I sprayed a light coat of PFM to seal the decals, and followed with a coat of Testors Model Master acrylic clear flat to dull the sheen.

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The painted, faded, and chipped chassis.

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I think I enjoy painting a leather seat more than a weapon!

panel and door slide.

The gun was built without the wheels and trailing legs, 4.

The canvas doors and the water cans on the passenger side were not mounted because they would not fit.

With all four subassemblies completed, I checked the seams and alignments.

I washed the components in hot, sudsy

The filters were applied in multiple sessions — and only after careful thought.

I used the following colors for the oil-dot fading: buff, German ochre, faded gray, dark rust, snow white, light mud, and Luftwaffe yellow — lighter colors in the open areas, and darker colors in the shadows.

water. When everything had dried, I sprayed each item with Tamiya plastic and metal primer (No. 87026), 5.

While the primer dried, I assembled and primed the four figures (see sidebar).

Painting I used the hairspray weathering method on this build because of the realistic chipping

opportunities it provided to mimic the effects a harsh desert environment had on these vehicles.

I began with two light coats of Testors Model Master gunmetal buffing Metalizer (No. 1455), followed by a dry-brushing of Vallejo oily steel (VJ70865), 6.

I masked off the wood sides of the vehicle and airbrushed Vallejo deck tan (70986).

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Although the Floquil paint line has been discontinued, you can use Tamiya metallic gray (XF-56) for the same effect.

My wife stopped me from using the kitchen sink, but it was close as I loaded the truck with stowage and equipment!

Painting the figures Painting detailed figures like New World Miniatures’ LRDG Crew Four Figure Set (NWM35038) takes time but is well worth the effort. Here is how I spent an enjoyable seven hours working on the gun operator in the cargo bed.

I started by prepping the figure and painting with Testors Model Master acrylic gray primer (4680). Next, I turned to Vallejo acrylics, which dry fast.

Adding a little Liquitex Slow-Dri will allow you more working time to blend the colors.

For a flesh base coat, I mixed equal parts dark sand (70.847) and cork brown (70.843). When thinning Vallejo acrylics, I use

only distilled water to prevent mineral deposits or discoloration. After applying two light coats to the face, I blocked in the beard with a mix of equal parts red leather (70.818) and German camouflage pale brown (70.825). Next, I added shadows with a mix of 8 parts of the flesh base coat plus 1 part cavalry brown (70.982), and 1 part leather brown (70.871), thinned so it freely flowed into recesses.

More cavalry brown mixed into the flesh base added warmth to the shadowed areas.

Highlights came from adding basic skintone (70.815) to the flesh base. Washes of burnt

I then sprayed three light coats of hairspray to provide the barrier for chipping.

After much research, I decided on a two-tone camouflage pattern of Vallejo Portland stone (71288) and light azure (71108), 7.

I sprayed two light coats of an 80:30 mix of Tamiya light blue (XF-23) and flat white (XF-2).

Then I masked with Silly Putty and sprayed my interpretation of Portland stone, mixed from a LifeColor Italian camouflage set. I love the LifeColor range for chipping because the acrylic paint can be chipped with warm water and a stiff brush until you seal the finish.

The contrast was stark initially, but after chipping the paint I toned it down with two light applications of Mig Productions’

umber (70.941) brought out the details in the beard. A toothpick dipped in black grey (70.862) painted eyebrows and pupils.

The leather jacket was painted with German camou-

gray filter for dark yellow. We all have opinions on weathering, but no one can argue with scale — so I took my time and performed all of the chipping under magnification, 8.

I applied Pledge FloorCare MultiSurface Finish (PFM), and then the decals with a little Microscale Micro Set, 9. I used distilled water for the decals to prevent unexpected discoloring or mineral deposits.

I then applied both gray and brown Mig filters, 10. The rifles, Lewis gun, and leather bench seat were painted next, 11.

I finished final detailing on the interior and exterior of the cargo bed and applied the last filter of burnt umber and mineral spirits before using oil-dot fading on the exterior and interior truck bed to blend the effects and lend depth to colors, 12.

flage pale brown and highlighted with light brown (70.929) and red leather. Adding black gray and leather brown to the base color created shadows.

Now he’s ready for desert patrol.

I prefer to use Mig 502 Abteilung oil paint for washes and oil-dot fading. The broad range of colors provides a lot of choices, and the paint’s finely ground pigments lets it flow well.

Dark rust color was used for the rust effects.

The tires were painted with Floquil weathered black, 13.

I sourced as much stowage as I could from other projects. I had a nice collection of British stowage left over from a Resicast Sherman set, so I threw in some miscellaneous British flimsies (4-gallon fuel cans) and ammo boxes. I even found an Italian fuel drum, 14.

I thoroughly enjoyed this build. It’s hard to believe this kit was first produced when I was 8 years old. FSM www.FineScale.com

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Now that’s a Nashorn!

Clean construction and fundamental finishing yield a realistic German antitank weapon

BY MIKE KIRCHOFF

Dragon’s 1/35 scale SdKfz 164 Nashorn premium kit inspired Mike to build it straight from the box.

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pen-topped armored vehicles always fascinate: Each fighting compartment is a model of its own, with a gun, optics, ammunition storage, communication, and driver’s controls to build and detail.

These vehicles sparked a keen interest early in my model-building career. So, when Dragon announced a new premium kit of the SdKfz 164 Nashorn in 1/35 scale (No. 6314), replete with photo-etchings (PE), brass ammunition, aluminum turned barrels, and the timesaving “Magic” tracks, I knew I had to build it.

The Nashorn (rhinoceros) was based on the Geschützwagen III/IV chassis as a platform for the powerful 8.8cm Panzerabwehrkanone (PaK) 43/1 antitank gun. Features such as the spare road-wheel racks attached to the rear hull plate and dual exhaust pipes identify this model as a late-production Nashorn.

Construction Some may argue that Dragon should have used slide-mold technology to produce details on the lower hull. I beg to differ!

Having return-roller axles and bogey-arm bumpers integrated into the lower hull expedites the build without sacrificing much detail. It’s nice to have fewer parts, 1.

Still, armor modelers routinely deal with kits of 600 or more pieces, 2. I use a highlighter on the instruction sheet to ensure no part or specific instruction is overlooked.

This really comes in handy when kits offer multiple versions.

The glacis plate (Part B35) fit the lower hull very well. I placed it and flowed Tamiya Extra Thin Cement into the joint 46 FineScale Modeler December 2016

from underneath, letting capillary action draw the glue in and leaving no mark on the exterior, 3.

Tracks Dragon’s Magic tracks — individual styrene links, pre-trimmed, bagged, and ready to assemble — certainly make things easier, 4.

Assembly is more time-consuming than difficult. Using a wood ruler as a backstop keeps the tracks in line. Testors Liquid Cement (black label) has medium viscosity and is slow-drying, giving you time to work tracks around the sprocket and wheels.

Contrary to kit instructions, I like to assemble and install the running gear and tracks prior to painting. While it can com-

plicate the finishing process later, it allows me to give individual-link tracks the proper slack before gluing them permanently.

A word of caution: Double-check the direction of the track before committing it to the model!

Satisfied with their sag, I froze the tracks by gently brushing a bit of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement onto each link, 5.

Fighting compartment The Nashorn’s wide-open fighting compartment offers myriad opportunities for details and weathering.

I built this interior in subassemblies: Superstructure walls, ammo bins, main gun, and other oddments were handled separately for easier painting and weathering and a cleaner-looking build.

I modified the engine intake grilles on either side of the superstructure. The kit supplied a pair of seven-part PE assemblies, but the result was too fragile and the vertical supports were incorrectly shaped. I used the PE as a template to fashion my own vents from .015" styrene.

The edges of most styrene parts possess a small degree of “draft,” or taper, to ease removal from the die during injection

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Mike liked having parts of the suspension molded with the lower hull — fewer pieces, more time for other fun.

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With a good fit on hull plates, all Mike had to do was touch it with a brushful of liquid cement. Capillary action draws the cement in.

molding. This produces inaccurate angles at the edges. Using the back side of a No. 11 blade, I true these surfaces by adzing, or carefully scraping, the edges, 6.

The rear of the fighting compartment is crowded with a pair of ammunition lockers for the 8.8cm main gun. Just to be different, I closed one bin and left the opposite open.

I had to fill a handful of knockout-pin marks on the inner faces of the open bin, but the result was worth it.

The multipart PE hangers for the individual rounds were a challenge. I bent and soldered the larger components, but the two-part brackets that held the rear of the projectiles were beyond my soldering skills. I replaced those parts with styrene.

Dragon really did its homework on the heart of the Nashorn — the 8.8mm PaK 43/1 main gun. This jewel requires nine individual steps to complete. I broke the building process into

Dragon’s individual-link “Magic” track is easy to assemble — a real timesaver. A ruler was all the jig Mike needed to keep track runs straight.

subassemblies for easier painting.

My most severe criticism of this kit is how many two-part cylinders must be assembled and cleaned up, leaving you to create perfectly round tubes and carefully sand a rear portion of the main gun, recuperator, and both elevation/depression cylinders without damaging details. I gave in to frustration and removed most of the grease nipples for convenience, replacing them with punched discs and styrene rod.

Soldering

I avoided learning to solder as long as I could, using super glue or epoxy to attach PE. But with the proliferation of PE in kits, I had to relent. You simply cannot get a The year Hitler stronger bond than by renamed the soldering — and I must admit it’s easier than I upgraded had ever imagined!

Hornisse I use a rechargeable (hornet) Wahl Iso-Tip soldering Nashorn iron and Tix Flux with a low-temperature solder, 7. (rhinoceros).

1944

Main gun

Mike highlights installed parts on the instruction sheet to prevent missing one.

The key is using only as much solder as necessary. In this case, that meant salamislicing small discs of solder, then halving those to half-moons — just enough to do the trick. Flux will leech the solder into itself, so apply it sparingly with a small brush. Using the tip of a hobby knife, apply bits of solder along the joint of the parts. A set of alligator clamps, “extra hands,” or tweezers will help hold parts and draw heat away to prevent resoftening already-applied solder. With your chips in place, touch the hot tip of the iron to the part and the solder will neatly flow into the joint.

Interior painting A primer coat is essential, particularly when it involves multiple media such as PE and resin. Airbrushing a quick coat of GSI Creos Mr. Surfacer 1000 gives everything a consistent pre-coat under the acrylic base colors and reveals surface imperfections, 8.

Next, I pre-shaded interior components with Tamiya NATO black (XF-69). I immediately followed with a mix of Tamiya paints: dark yellow (XF-60) and desert yellow (XF-59) tinted slightly with flat white www.FineScale.com

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Testors liquid cement held tracks together while Mike set their sag.

Tamiya’s faster-drying Extra Thin Cement locked the links in place.

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Soldering is ideal for joining PE pieces. Brush on a bit of flux, lay the solder in place, and touch with a hot soldering iron. The solder will go where the flux did.

(XF-2). This mixture was applied in several light coats, leaving a hint of the black preshading along all edges, 9.

Weathering began with 502 Abteilung wash brown (ABT-080) reduced with Humbrol enamel thinner. (I enjoy the permanence of oils for weathering.) Using a broad brush, I covered everything with a light application — not so much to accentuate details as to add depth and character to the overall color scheme and keep it from looking like fresh paint, 10.

Next came a pinwash of burnt umber artist’s oils, a bit more selective and precisely applied to individual features, 11. This is also a good color to impart streaking on vertical surfaces. Don’t limit yourself to just one color — blending earth tones like raw umber, raw sienna, and yellow ochre can produce fantastic results, too.

Dry-brushing may have fallen out of vogue in recent years, but I still find this technique of whisking a contrasting color across edges very useful — particularly to bring out the numerous details in an opentopped vehicle. Dry-brushing with yellow 48 FineScale Modeler December 2016

The back side of a hobby knife was used to slightly correct the shape of certain pieces.

A primer coat gives all the different materials a uniform color to start.

Mike airbrushed with Mr. Surfacer 1000.

ochre, lightened with white, gave contrast to edges and raised features, 12.

Chipped and scratched paint always looks cool, but restraint is required. I use Vallejo Model Air camouflage black brown (No. 71042); it comes pre-thinned, and the color is perfect for replicating dark brown, oxidized steel. Typically, I limit this to random chips along edges and high-wear areas, with an occasional dot or two on broader surfaces, 13. Brushing with powdered pastels blends in the chips, 14.

The entire interior received a thorough dusting of pigments and artist’s pastels, especially where dust, dirt, and mud would settle in the lower regions of the fighting compartment. For this, I applied successive layers of Mig Productions Europe dust (P028), light dust (P027), and Gulf War sand (P037). I also used highly diluted raw umber artist’s oil to add stains and streaks to simulate fuel and oil spills. I brushpainted exposed steel, such as the inner workings of the breech block and elevation gears, with Citadel chainmail (61-56), 15.

Other than some spare ammunition, the

kit supplies no extra equipment or stowage.

I rummaged through my spares bin for a few boxes and helmets. I also added a cable lead I fashioned from solder and draped in the empty radio bracket, 16.

Before taking on the final assemblies, I gave the tracks a quick wash of Vallejo Model Color English uniform, 17. This almost-transparent application of acrylic complements the black-painted tracks and acts as an undercoat for further effects.

Exterior The major superstructure panels fell together neatly. I added weld beads, made from epoxy putty, at the rear corners. The pair of forward plates and the completed main gun were temporarily fixed in place prior to painting.

Instead of pre-shading the exterior of the Nashorn with black (as with the interior), I shot Tamiya dark yellow straightaway because, unlike the interior, the exterior will wear olive green camouflage.

The pre-shading might detract from the camo scheme.

9 After pre-shading the edges with NATO black, Mike airbrushed a custom-mixed Panzer yellow lightly enough to let the pre-shading show through.

11

10 A layer of 502 Abteilung wash brown gave depth to the colors.

12

A pinwash of burnt umber artist’s oils called out molded features.

Dry-brushing with a lightened shade of yellow ochre defined edges and raised details.

13

14

A little bit of paint chipping goes a long way — generally, less is more.

Painted chips are blended into their surroundings with powdered pastels. www.FineScale.com

49

Spare parts

Solder

15

16

Powdered pastels gave the fighting compartment a lived-in look. Bare metal in the breech is brush-painted with Citadel chainmail.

Chipping, weathering effects, spare parts, and a snippet of solder wire for a radio cable are bringing the interior to life.

17

18

A wash of Vallejo Model Color English uniform starts the track treatment.

Mike skipped pre-shading the outer hull to keep the green camouflage more distinct.

19

20

A localized coat of Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish provided a smooth bed for decals, preventing silvering to make the marking look painted on.

A thin coat of Tamiya buff covers lower areas where dust and grime would accumulate. It also unifies the finish.

50 FineScale Modeler December 2016

21

22

Brushing, stippling, and streaking raw umber artist’s oils makes the vehicle look more rugged.

Airbrushing a thin mix of Tamiya buff and khaki to replicate dust help place this Nashorn in Italy.

Remembering Mike Kirchoff

23 Brushing the suspension with pigments provides a final coating of dirt and dust.

When the dark yellow had dried completely, I carried out the same staining, streaking, and chipping as with the interior.

I followed by airbrushing bands of Tamiya Japanese army green (XF-13) to complete the camouflage, 18.

I applied Pledge FloorCare MultiSurface Finish to decal locations to smooth them for better adhesion. Decal-setting solution settled them in, 19.

I painted the rims of the road wheels with a combination of Vallejo Model Color khaki and black, thinned to the consistency of ink. The convoy light was painted silver and over-coated with Tamiya clear blue (X-23). I painted the gunsight Vallejo black and detailed it with an M.V. Products lens.

To mute and unify the finish, I airbrushed highly reduced Tamiya buff (XF57) onto all exterior surfaces to replicate a layer of dust, concentrating on the vehicle’s lower extremes, 20. When that dried, I

Michael Allen Kirchoff died May 30, 2016, at home in Independence, Kan. He was 57.

Mike’s first story for FineScale Modeler featured a Trumpeter 1/35 scale KV-1 masterfully whitewashed and weathered (December 2006 FSM). Following up with him on the phone, I found we had more in common than modeling — an erstwhile career in music as well as sportswriting and editing (where I got my start in journalism). He was a delight to work with: His

repeated the application of thinned raw umber artist’s oils, drawing details out by surrounding them with small amounts of color. Then, using a brush moistened with clean thinner, I gently blended some of the raw umber into the overall scheme, using downward strokes on vertical surfaces and stippling elsewhere, 21.

Finishing flourishes As this particular vehicle fought in Italy, I airbrushed a highly reduced mix of Tamiya buff and khaki (XF-49) to add dust to the running gear and lower hull, 22.

The tracks were further enhanced by painting the contact points of each link with raw umber artist’s oils mixed with silver enamel. Washes of burnt sienna and umber artist’s oils depicted worn steel.

Then came more Mig pigments. I made a 1:1 blend of Mig Europe dust and Gulf War sand into a thin slurry with Humbrol

manuscripts, photography, and modeling were topnotch, and his creativity produced models that were flawlessly executed, unusual, and always interesting.

– Mark Hembree

enamel thinner and applied it everywhere I could. When that was dry, I used a stubby brush moistened with clean thinner to move the dust around as desired, letting it accumulate naturally on all horizontal surfaces. Finally, I dusted the running gear, upper hull, and superstructure with pigments, 23.

I added a pair of spent brass rounds sprayed with Testors Dullcote and worked over with pastels to make them look heated-up and used.

I usually have every weathering medium I own spread out on my workbench. I often move back and forth with them, depending on the desired effect — I refuse to categorize each step chronologically. In reality, weathering stages take place simultaneously.

Therefore, I view each model as a canvas waiting for layers upon layers of color and effects. There is no recipe — it is a matter of practice and experimentation. FSM www.FineScale.com

51

READER GALLERY

◀ CHUCK STEWART

MUSKEGON, MICHIGAN After building Platz’s C-46D as Bottoms-Up II, Chuck says, “This might be my first 1/144 scale kit ever. Wasn’t until I was finished decaling that I noticed I messed up the black walkway location.

Darn.” Chuck’s father flew C-46s in the Pacific during World War II. “I think Dad would have been pleased,” he says.

▶ CARLOS MENDES

LISBON, PORTUGAL World War II Germany’s Heuschrecke 10 (Grasshopper) could remove its own turret so its 10.5cm gun could be emplaced on the ground. Carlos built Trumpeter’s 1/35 scale Waffenträger (weapons carrier).

52 FineScale Modeler December 2016

◀ EDWARD ANGEL

LOMPOC, CALIFORNIA “A model train in FSM?” writes Edward. “In honor of the Union Pacific rebuilding Big Boy 4014, I thought I would try my hand at Revell’s 1/87 scale plastic model.”

Edward cut away the molded handrails along the boiler and replaced them with model railroading aftermarket parts. He also cut open the cab windows and added a crew as well as angle braces for the front handrails. The locomotive is painted with Testors Model Master gunmetal weathered by airbrushed layers of flat black and light shades of dust. The smoke is cotton balls pulled apart and painted black; Edward used Photoshop to add a bit of blur to the plume.

▲ JAMES DePIETRO

WEST DEPTFORD, NEW JERSEY James writes, “Spending my summers growing up on the Jersey shore, I have always admired the commercial fishing boats. They were rugged sea vessels made of wood and rusty old steel with lots of character and age.” He airbrushed Lindberg’s 1/60 scale shrimp boat with Tamiya paints. A hairnet provided fish netting; its floats are wood beads from a craft store. James weathered the boat with pastel chalks. FSM www.FineScale.com

53

READER TIPS

By Mark Savage

1 Cup lids provide easy join fixes To minimize filling and sanding my models’ joins, I use the plastic lids from takeout drink cups or the lids from ice cream tubs from a well-known burger chain.

These are thin enough to make shims and can be built up to the desired thickness to fill a seam. They can then be trimmed down to suit, since some models do not leave a lot of leeway when joining fuselage halves. I also find the thin plastic is ideal for use on wing-root joins, which I find are often the most awkward places to fill and sand.

– Tony Ward Bridlington, East Yorkshire, England

2

Giving lenses the old college try ... er, fix!

Ever wonder if there was another way to make lenses for modern armor or aircraft sights, periscopes, sensors, head-up displays, etc?

As a 50-year-old college student and 35-year modeler, I found a solution while going through my class supplies — tinted binder dividers, 1.

They come in basic clear and a variety of colors, are inexpensive, and one sheet can be used for several models. They can be found at any office supply or discount store where school supplies are sold.

I recently built a U.S. Marine Corps LAV and U.S. Army Paladin. I researched photos and videos of them in action to decide the correct color shade. For the Paladin’s large turret periscope, I used a new hobby blade and trimmed a piece of red binder to fit. I then painted the spot where the “window” is with gloss black (you could use white, silver, or another color to get the correct look), 2. I did the same for the driver’s and commander’s periscopes on both vehicles.

It looks great! Don’t get me wrong, clear color paint has its place. But I find this works just as well.

– Mike Frady Raleigh, N.C. Better yet, it costs about $1 in most hardware or discount stores.

A nearly free scribing tool Here is the perfect scribing tool — a paintcan opener.

My photo shows (left) how the opener appears when new from the store, while on the right you see the opener’s tip filed to a point. The point can be as fine or as wide as you need. The opener’s handle fits in your palm, with the thumb and index finger along the shaft to guide the tip.

HAVE A TIP OR TECHNIQUE TO SHARE? Send a brief description along with a photo to tips@finescale.com or visit FineScale. com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.

– David C. Montgomery Chicago, Ill.

Fine-tip markers to the rescue I’ve found when doing fine detail work that I sometimes need something besides a paintbrush to complete the job.

If you are painting a model that is white, even if not primed, use a fine-tip marker to get the color that you’re painting into tight areas. (I have not tried this on models primed in white or gray, but it should work there, too.)

The marker helps you get up close to areas where it’s impossible to get tape in place to protect the finish.

– Charles Myrick Buchanan, Ga.

Free strainer with a meal!

I’ve found a useful item for modelers in

54 FineScale Modeler December 2016

some frozen meal entrées, such as Healthy Choice Café Steamers.

These contain a great little strainer about the size of a plate. This is perfect for a modeler to place over a sink drain when washing and rinsing airbrush parts to prevent losing them. The strainer features a slightly curved bottom that produces good, complete contact with the drain opening.

– Mark Longmire Oak Ridge, Tenn.

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

By Mark Hembree

1

2

3

Forming photo-etch

Q

My question relates to working with photo-etched brass: Do you cut the connecting pieces of brass when you fold and glue them, or do you leave them there (and leave the gap)?

– Jeffrey Belitsky, Gardner, Mass.

A

Jeff, without seeing the pieces you are working on it’s hard for me to advise. I can tell you that you should cut photoetch (PE) pieces from their fret much as you would cut a plastic piece from its sprue. Lay the fret on a hard cutting surface and use a hobby knife to press down as close to the piece as you can to part it from the fret.

Hold the piece in a locking tweezers and sand off the nub left from the attachment point.

Careful: If it is a small piece, cutting it loose may spring it into the air (and oblivion). Either leave it in the bag and cut through the bag to part the piece, 1, or lay it on doublesided tape that will hold it when you cut.

Why bother with old decals?

Q Since you can scan any old decal and store it on your hard drive, and can enlarge or reduce the decal to any scale, why not use inkjet or laser decal paper to make a new sheet and do away with trying to preserve the old, unpredictable decal? Is there any copyright violation when you make a new copy?

– John Maene Hawthorne, N.J. A I suspect most people give old decals a try either because they don’t have the equipment or skills to scan and rescale images or they

Pieces that must be folded to shape will have score lines that help you keep the bends clean and straight. There are tools that can help, such as the one shown above (from The Small Shop, www.thesmallshop.com), 2.

That’s just one of many bending tools available. Some are especially handy for long, straight bends. For small pieces,

simply don’t want to take those extra steps.

Also, though it is true that you can print images on decal paper with a laser or inkjet printer, the quality and opacity is not on a par with silk-screen printed decals.

Another reason would be that, unless you have an ALPS printer, you can’t print white. You can sometimes work around that by printing on white decal paper, but if the image includes letters or numbers not on a white or colored field, that can be a problem.

Regarding copyrights, if you are not selling or distributing the material you are not going to have any trouble.

Printing your own decals GOT A MODELING PROBLEM? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. E-mail questions@finescale.com, or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. We publish letters of general interest in the magazine; however, mail volume and space limitations prevent us from printing every question.

Please include your name, town, state, and a daytime phone number.

Q Help! I’m finishing up a 1/72 scale Hasegawa B-24J Liberator and I need to make special nose art. Some time ago you had an article on making decals. However, I was not able to find it in two stacks of FSM. Can you point me in the right direction so I can finish this kit?

– Earl Wanklin Hawthorne, N.J. A The best recent articles on printing your own decals were by Don Stauffer in the January 2013 FSM and Paul Boyer and Rick

though, I hold a straightedge razor on the score line and slide a hobby knife under the edge, then lift it to begin the bend, 3.

You can find more about working with PE in the May 2013 FSM — and if you are a subscriber, you can see videos and more by typing “photoetch” into the search bar at www.FineScale.com.

In the January 2013 FSM, Don Stauffer printed his own decals for Encore Models’ 1/72 scale Beechcraft D-18.

Johnson in the November 1999 issue. You can order back issues at FineScale.com or by calling 800-533-6644 (813-910-3616 international). In the meantime, here are some quick tips: • There are different decal papers for laser and inkjet printers. Check that when you buy.

• Print your design on regular paper to check the size before committing your decal sheet.

• White decal film is best for designs that are colorful and/or contain white. However, for numbers and letters, you’ll want clear so you don’t have to trim out each character.

• Coat the printed decal with a clear gloss or Microscale Liquid Decal Film so the ink doesn’t run when you put the decal in water. FSM www.FineScale.com

55

WORKBENCH REVIEWS FSM experts build and evaluate new kits

Onboard with Kinetic’s naval Flanker

T

he Su-33 is one of my all-time favorite modern jet fighters.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a proper example in 1/48 scale — until now. Thanks to Kinetic!

Opening the box reveals 320-plus parts, molded in gray, with primo surface detail!

Everything is recessed and true to scale.

Parts like the single-piece molded missiles and exhaust nozzles are boxed separately.

There are photo-etch (PE) parts and crystal-clear plastic that includes separate navigation lights.

Decals provided by Cartograf are included, and are gorgeous. Only 24 of these aircraft were built, and I believe all can be modeled with the decals provided.

Individual numbers, 0-9, are included. All aircraft are based on the Russian aircraft carrier Admiral Kuznetsov, so the colors are the same; choose the number you want.

The only real problem is that the white decals, used for sensitive areas, allow the 56 FineScale Modeler December 2016

underlying colors of the model to show through.

Acrylicos Vallejo, Ammo of Mig Jimenez, Italeri, GSI Creos Mr. Color, Humbrol, Tamiya, and Akan are referenced in the color listing, but, in the instruction steps’ color callouts, only Vallejo numbers are shown.

The instruction sheet is the only real problem with the kit. All the drawings are black-and-white CAD and look like photocopies. Part locations are vague, and there are quite a few parts that have no location at all or are mislabeled. Part PE3 should be 29, etc. The same paint number is used for two different colors. I found extensive research was required, not only for colors but also for part locations.

The cockpit is beautiful, missing only seat belts. Dry-fitting is a must; there are no locating marks or pins on the seat components, and the instructions are not much help. The ejection seat is a tight fit; I

removed a small amount of plastic on each side and the seat pushed in with no glue required.

The landing-gear bays also have wonderful detail. But when you get to Step 6, you must deviate from the directions.

Kinetic would have you assemble the landing gear, doors, and all the other bits before joining the upper and lower fuselage halves.

When it’s time to cement the fuselage together, the fit is very tight around the cockpit. I don’t know the reason. I probably should have dry-fitted more before gluing the cockpit together.

There are 26 parts in the nose gear alone, and it is beautifully molded. The main landing gear is not as extensive but still looks fantastic. Tires are weighted with bulges.

Step 16 takes you to the exhaust nozzles and three-piece PE flame holders. They are exquisite, and though they require a bit of patience they are well worth it. The exhaust

and accompanying nozzles are molded as single pieces; no unsightly seam to smooth.

The edges of the nozzles are realistically thin too.

There are many options for this kit as you progress through assembly. You have a choice of folded wings (or not). I chose folded because the model is twice the size otherwise, and I don’t have room for it. The finely molded hinges look fantastic. But if you leave the wings down, you have to sand or file them to get the wings to fit together — and that’s a lot of work.

The kit provides three brackets to hold the wings up, but they are plastic and the weight of the wings causes them to rest on the vertical stabilizers. I suggest replacing them with a metal bracket.

The nose cone was not necessarily a problem, but it was engineered differently from similar kits. On most, the nose cone is a separate piece. It is on this kit as well, but it is molded at an angle that incorporates

some of the forward fuselage. I don’t know why Kinetic did this, but I’m sure it had its reasons.

Other options are open/closed canopy, folded pitot tube, open/closed tail cone (revealing some PE and not much else), open/closed intake screens, open/ closed speed brake, and a refueling probe that can be positioned in or out. All control surfaces are molded separately.

Detail on the single-piece missiles is fantastic. However, while instructions call for the missiles to be painted white, no detail painting is shown and no stencil decals are provided for them. The box art shows two missiles to be mounted under each intake, but nothing is said about that in the instructions.

Still, this is a fantastic kit with no ejector-pin marks that can’t be easily removed, and great decals along with amazing surface detail.

There are some minor fit issues, but no

Kit: No. K48062 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Kinetic, www.kineticmodel.com Price: $80 Comments: Injection-molded, 367 parts (44 PE), decals Pros: Beautiful surface detail; many options; true to scale Cons: Parts mislabeled; missing color callouts; unclear directions

deal-breakers. Kinetic’s kit builds into a drop-dead gorgeous model of one the most beautiful aircraft in service today. I’m absolutely giddy to have it in my hangar!

– Caleb Horn www.FineScale.com

57

WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Dragon M60

D

ragon’s kit of an early M60 shares parts with Dragon’s M48 and M60A2. The molding has fine details and scale-correct casting texture on the hull and turret. Most of the kit is molded in Dragon’s usual light gray plastic, with the exception being the Dragon Styrene tracks and tan, soft vinyl for the mantlet’s canvas cover.

Starting with the running gear, everything went together great. The only exception, was that I had to shave off the inside locator tabs of the drive gears for them to fit properly.

After the running gear came the upper hull. The details are crisply molded and look great. You will want to dry-fit the equipment before putting glue on anything; I had to remove a few locator pins for some of the stowage to fit properly. For example, I had to remove the two outer pins on both of the air boxes. I also had to slightly rework the mounts for the generator’s muffler to fit in its location.

The turret went together perfectly. The only worry was a large seam on the front of the vinyl mantlet cover. I couldn’t get it smooth with a hobby knife. What worked was a trick I use to smooth joints on figures: I used the brush applicator of my Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement to “paint” the seam line until it melted into its surroundings, disappearing completely.

When you first apply it you may see brush strokes, but they will disappear into smooth uniformity as the cement dries.

I wish there was a canvas cover for the

commander’s cupola, as it appears in most reference photos and even the box art, but one is not included.

Painting went smoothly and quickly.

The kit provides only one set of markings, but the decals were excellent — very thin and opaque, they lay flat and smooth with little effort.

Even though there were a few things that didn’t quite fit right, the finished tank looks great. Fine details, such as grab handles, antenna, and rear basket, bring a lot of life to the piece.

cockpit, I glued the fuselage together and inserted the intake trunk through the bottom opening where the wings attach. This ensured the intake precisely matched the separate intake lip.

Be careful when joining the wings to the fuselage, and be sure the wing meets its outline on the fuselage. I was only half careful and had to do some tricky sanding and scraping to eliminate a raised joint along the fuselage. Speaking of seams, there is one at the top of the canopy. The actual aircraft has a dark line there, from the rear edge of the canopy to just short of the front edge. I used a decal to simulate this feature.

Trumpeter has you install the landing gear later in the build, which is good.

However, it requires some care to ensure correct alignment. Also, the tires are weighted, with keyed wheels and axles to keep the flat surfaces down. On my model, the wheel holes were too small for the axles — and when I expanded the diameter, the keys were eliminated. Not a big deal, but it complicates positioning the wheels flat on the ground. Other small parts had similar fit issues.

On the painting guide, note the upper surface color should be GSI Creos H61 (INJ Gray), not the H16 indicated. That

Trumpeter Chengdu J-10B

T

he J-10 is China’s first indigenous multirole fighter, and the “B” is an upgraded version of the original design. Its performance is roughly equivalent to the F-16C. Molded in Trumpeter’s standard gray plastic, the J-10B has beautiful surface and rivet detail as well as nicely detailed wheel wells. Cockpit detail comes in the form of decals and looks good. The kit provides only one marking option, however, there are a lot of external stores to choose from.

Instructions are clear and easy to follow, as is the painting and decal guide. Other than the main colors on the aircraft and missiles, though, you will have to search references for colors of other areas on the model. Paint suggestions refer to several manufacturers.

Construction follows the traditional format, with work beginning on the cockpit.

Trim the instrument decals closely and section them for better fit. As with other Trumpeter fighters I’ve built, construction moves along quickly and fit is very good.

This kit is no exception. I did modify some of the building steps.

After installing the nose wheel bay and 58 FineScale Modeler December 2016

Kit: No. 3553 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Dragon, www.dragon-models.com Price: $73 Comments: Injection-molded, 410 parts (9 PE, cable), decals Pros: Fine handrails; intricately molded details Cons: A few fit issues; confusing instruction errors; details shown in box art missing from kit

The tank scales out correctly to published sources.

I spent a little more than 55 hours on this kit, and because of the confusing instructions I would recommend it more to intermediate modelers. However, it was easy to overcome a few hurdles and build a great-looking tank that will be a worthy addition to any Cold War collection.

– Chris Cortez

Kit: No. 1651 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: Trumpeter, www.trumpeter-china.com Price: $37.95 Comments: Injection-molded, 204 parts (5 PE), decals Pros: Multiple external stores; excellent surface detail Cons: Ejector-pin marks in awkward locations; many sprue attachment points on mating surfaces; some fit problems with smaller parts

color is green. The decals worked very well.

Stencils abound on the aircraft as well as the missiles, so be prepared to devote some time to them. I spent about 25 hours on the kit, with a couple of those on the decals.

Overall, Trumpeter’s J-10B is an excellent kit. I would recommend it to modelers with a couple of builds behind them.

With its accurate dimensions and array of external stores, it makes an interesting companion to the other canard/delta configured fighters: Typhoon II, Rafale, and Gripen.

– Phil Pignataro

Hasegawa Mitsubishi A6M5c Type 52 Zero

B

y 1943, the Zero was being outmatched by U.S. Navy Hellcats and Corsairs, and Army Air Force’s P-38. Mitsubishi moved to make the Zero more competitive by developing the A6M5, which bolstered armament and pilot protection.

Hasegawa’s all-new 1/32 scale Zero release replaces its old 1970s A6M5, which is still on the market. The new kit is beautifully molded in light gray plastic.

Features included a detailed engine, cowling flap options (open or closed), external fuel tank, and a seated pilot figure.

The cockpit module comprises 35 parts and looks impressive with careful painting. I liked the fact that it is installed into the assembled fuselage from underneath before attachment of the wings.

The fuselage assembled perfectly with the inclusion of two bulkheads and a locking plate. I didn’t need to apply any filler.

As with the fuselage, the wings went together without issues. A wing spar which doubles as the back of the wheel well helps assure the wing dihedral is set correctly. The assembled wing attached snugly to the fuselage.

Locking tabs between the horizontal stabilizers ensure proper alignment.

The engine consists of nine parts and includes a complete exhaust. Take care during assembly; any misalignment of the exhausts will interfere with the cowl’s fit.

The instructions are a little vague, and it took me a half dozen dry runs to get things lined up.

The canopy comes in three parts, which allows it to be posed open (as I did with my kit).

The inclusion of a number of unused parts indicates Hasegawa will be issuing other A6M5 variations in the future.

My primary reference was Aero Detail

7 Mitsubishi A6M Zero Fighter (Model Graphix, no ISBN). Also, I found useful Famous Airplanes Of The World: Type Zero Carrier Fighter Model 22-63 (Bunrin-Do, no ISBN).

I painted my Zero with a combination of GSI Creos acrylic and lacquer IJN paints. As a side note, there were variations in color shades based on whether the Zero was manufactured by Mitsubishi or Nakajima, which the painting instructions note.

Decals are given for two aircraft. They applied well over gloss. But be careful, as they are fragile and will break under heavy pressure.

I completed my Zero in 32 hours. It was a most enjoyable project due to the quality of the molding, positive construction, and attention to detail. Hasegawa continues to balance detail and buildability with this kit. The kit can be managed by modelers of all skill levels. I highly recommend Hasegawa’s new Zero to 1/32 scale builders and Japanese aircraft enthusiasts.

– Jim Zeske

Kit: No. 8884 Scale: 1/32 Manufacturer: Hasegawa, www.hasegawa-model.co.jp Price: $72.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 164 parts (4 vinyl), decals Pros: Exceptional moldings; impressive engineering and fits Cons: None

www.FineScale.com

59

WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Roden M37

O

rdered in 1949 to replace WC Dodge trucks used in World War II, the M37 Dodge ¾-ton truck was built in several variations, including ambulances, bomb trucks, and crash trucks, to mention a few.

Roden’s M37 answers the call by many modelers for a kit. It is molded in light gray plastic with clear-plastic lights and windows. Care is needed in handling the sprues; the brittle plastic is easily broken.

Tires are molded in vinyl, and string is included for the winch cable. Overall, the molding is good. But the sprue attachments are thick; take care, especially with the small parts. I found myself having to carve some of the detail back into the parts after taking them off the tree. Flash, sink marks, and mold shift add to the cleanup.

Markings are for two vehicles: a U.S. Army M37B1 in Vietnam, 1960; or a Royal Canadian Air Force M37 in Korea, 1953.

The directions are black-and-white drawings with a parts list and four-view drawings of both marking options. Color callouts reference Vallejo paints. Many of

the parts do not look like the drawings in the directions.

Since the markings are for two variants, you should choose before you start construction. However, the directions show both marking choices to be M37B1s and do not mention how to model the RCAF M37. Not until the model was almost finished did I find the parts to model the M37. Too bad — I had already committed to the M37B1.

The assembly steps jump around, so study the instructions for the sequence that works best for you. I started with the

engine by building the major components first, then adding the detail parts. Make sure to remove the small tabs on Part A13 as shown in Step 9, or A29 will not fit right. If you are building a vehicle without a winch, you can skip adding parts A20 and A35 to the transmission. I left the engine and muffler separate for easier painting.

A single-piece frame is provided — mine showed no twisting — but be careful when cleaning it up to avoid damaging the mounting tabs on the side of the frame.

You can pose the front wheels turned, but they’re not workable unless you add

Kinetic Super Étendard

K

inetic’s all-new-tool 1/48 scale Super Étendard is molded in light gray plastic with more than 250 plastic parts on five sprues, one sprue of clear parts, and a small photoetch (PE) sheet. The kit can be built either as a Super Étendard (SuE) or the modernized Super Étendard Modernisé (SEM).

Surface detail is mostly engraved with finely recessed panel lines. The kit’s detailed cockpit comprises 17 parts. The only thing missing that would really make the cockpit pop are seat belts for the Mk.4 ejection seat.

I like the full-length intake duct that goes all the way to the engine compressor.

The wheel wells also are nicely done, with rib and structural details. Clear parts are thin and crystal-clear. The decals, designed

by CrossDelta and printed by Cartograf, were thin and perfectly in register. Schemes for five aircraft and extra numbers let you build any aircraft the squadron flew. Kinetic also included the various underwing stores carried by the Super Étendard, including the Exocet missile of Falklands fame.

60 FineScale Modeler December 2016

There are a ton of options to choose from, such as posable canopy, folding wing, posable speed brakes, refueling probe, and arresting hook. Trailing-edge flaps can be posed up or down; same for the leadingedge slats. You also have a choice of open or closed auxiliary-intake doors on the fuselage’s side.

The kit’s instruction book comprises 20 pages with 16 assembly steps and color callouts for GSI Creos Mr. Color paints.

Construction was straightforward, starting with the cockpit and moving on to add the full-length intake duct and exhaust pipe before gluing the fuselage together. I did deviate from the instructions after the basic fuselage assembly: the instructions would have you add the speed brakes and landinggear retraction struts before the wings are attached to the fuselage. That made no sense to me, so I left those assemblies until later.

The kit’s instructions were hard to follow.

The CAD drawings, while technically accurate, failed to show what some parts

looked liked from certain angles. Step 5 shows two sets of parts 47/48, but there’s only one set in the kit.

Overall I found the fits were good, though I did have to use some filler on the wing-to-fuselage joints. One of the tail leading-edge inserts was molded a little thin; there was no good way to fix it, so I just left it alone.

I painted my Super Étendard using Mr. Color according to the instructions. The

pins to the tie rod. The shock towers should be reversed from how they are shown in the directions; Part A55 is really Part A56. Sidewall detail on the vinyl tires is good, but the four tree attachments and center mold seam are hard to remove, even with new side cutters and a scalpel.

My kit was missing the winch string; I replaced it with nylon suture. Connecting the front bumpers and winch to the frame left gaps that needed filling.

The cab is the most difficult part of the build. Placement is vague for the front cowling (Part B7) and the front cab sides (parts B38 and B39). To make sure they were in the proper place, I glued the rear cab (B3) to the cab floor first, then followed with the doors. When the glue had dried, I could attach the front cowling in the right place. I then glued the hood and hood sides (B43 and B44); the former part was broken in my sample. My gearshift (Part B22) was not fully formed, so I used brass rod instead. Gauges are supplied as decals. You can model the cab with the canvas roof in place or just show the frame. I painted the cab separately.

Building the truck bed is straightforward except for the previously mentioned lack of directions regarding vehicle variants.

The M37 has a shortened seat on the passenger side to accommodate the spare tire.

Part C23 is the shortened seat, and C25 is

the spare-tire mount. Depending on which seat you use, the extra hinge molded on the bed’s side (C18), which is not marked in Step 29, needs to be removed. When building the bed, you have the options of raised or lowered seats, canvas frame or no frame, and, if you want, the canvas top. The bed cover provided is the full version, not the one shown on the box top.

The U.S. vehicles in Vietnam were painted a dark olive drab that looks almost black in pictures of the period. To simulate this color, I undercoated the model with Tamiya black green (XF-27) and followed with a primary coat of AK Interactive’s U.S.

decals matched the Mr. Color perfectly!

Once the paint was dry, I applied Mr. Super Clear gloss coat. The decals performed flawlessly; Mr. Mark Softer settled them into the panel lines. I really have become a fan of Cartograf decals!

With painting and decaling done, it was time to add final details like the landing gear and gear doors. I discovered the maingear retraction struts have locating pins on each end of the strut, but no corresponding locators on the main-gear strut or in the forward gear-bay bulkhead. A quick fix was made using a pin vise with a small bit to

drill out the missing locating holes. On a more positive note, I really liked the sturdy locating hinges on the gear doors. It made attaching the doors super easy, and unlikely that they will fall off.

With all the painting and construction finished, I used Testors Model Master flat clear to dull the glossy finish.

I spent about 25 hours building my Super Étendard. I really enjoyed the kit once I got past the frustrating instructions. The kit scales out almost perfectly to published dimensions. The only thing I would do differently if I were to

Kit: No. 806 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Roden, www.roden.eu Price: $57.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 243 parts (5 vinyl, string), decals Pros: Well-detailed rear canvas; posable wheels; unusual Canadian markings included Cons: Poor directions; misshapen, poor-fitting parts; decals

Army olive drab (AK4011). The highlights are Ammo of Mig Jimenez U.S. olive drab post-WWII (MIG-081).

The decals were the biggest problem in this kit. They are in register. But I had trouble getting them to adhere, especially over irregular surfaces. Neither Solvaset nor Micro Sol had any effect. The bridging symbol showed severe bleed-through of the underlying olive drab color, and the star on the hood was not solid white. Decal No. 7, which was supposed to be placed on the driver’s side rear bumper, was so large that there was no way to make it fit. Most of the decals needed excess film trimmed to get them into their allotted space; the dashboard gauges were the worst.

Even though I scrubbed them with soap and water, the vinyl tires seemed to repel any paint that I tried to apply.

Though I was frustrated during the build by such things as poor-fitting or malformed parts, once the weathering was finished the true potential of the model really showed through. Even with the low parts count, it took 33 hours to complete.

Replacing the decals with aftermarket items (already available) and, hopefully, new tires, could make this model shine.

Maybe Roden or one of the aftermarket companies will bring out other variants, such as the M43 ambulance.

– Mike Scharf build it again would be to add seat belts to the ejection seat.

I do think this kit is for advanced modelers, due to the challenging instructions and some of the really small plastic and PE parts.

– Jon Hergenrother

Kit: No. K48061 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Kinetic Model, www.kineticmodel.com Price: $55 Comments: Injectionmolded, 274 parts (5 PE), decals Pros: Fine molding; good fits; sufficient detail; excellent decals with plenty of choices Cons: Unclear instructions (drawings lack perspective); no painting instructions for ordnance

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WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Soar Art 35.5cm M1 super heavy howitzer

E

ight years ago, Soar Art surprised the modeling world with the release of a 1/35 scale Dora rail gun. The Hong Kong company recently followed up with another obscure German artillery piece, the 35.5cm Haubitze M1.

Developed by Rheinmetall before WWII, the massive gun could propel a 1,268-pound concrete-piercing shell 22,800 yards once every four minutes. Fewer than 10 were produced; they were used during the Battle of France, Operation Barbarossa, Sevastopol, Leningrad, and the Warsaw Uprising.

The kit’s moldings show crisp detail, but flash, sink marks, and numerous ejector-pin marks mar many surfaces. Most are easily fixed. Be aware that the brittle plastic is easily broken if too much force is applied during construction.

Mixed bag describes the instructions.

The diagrams are clear, but there are mistakes throughout, including mislabeled parts and pieces showing up in diagrams without having been shown being attached; Howitzer is even misspelled on the cover!

Study the steps carefully to be sure you don’t miss anything.

Construction started with the front and rear platforms and the upper and lower carriages. I painted the interior of the carriages Tamiya NATO black (XF-69) before attaching the upper parts because those areas would be difficult to reach later.

Curiously, each carriage has locators for

62 FineScale Modeler December 2016

internal bulkheads and gears to be attached — but none are provided. A step (Part A27) broke as I removed it from the sprue, so I replaced it with brass rod.

In Step 19, parts M8 and M9 suddenly appear in place. They should be attached in Step 16.

A touch of filler fixed the join between the gun receiver halves (parts C7 and C8).

Use caution assembling the recoil piston between the breech and main body of the gun (H9 and H11). They are reversed; the flat spot on each part should match the flat spot on the cover (Part K3).

The two sections of the gun should be movable if you glue the recoil bars to C6 and not C3. I glued the parts in full recoil because it looked cool, and leaving it workable opened seams on the body.

The 11.5" gun barrel comes in halves with a long seam that was hard to remove without sanding a side flat. The directions show rifling, but none is present. I broke one of the hyraulic cylinder mounts (parts H21) trying to snap them in place after the model was assembled. I recommend adding them before painting, then adding the hydraulic cylinder after painting. I left off the vinyl hydraulic covers; they didn’t look good compressed.

The directions do not show rigging the crane, but Step 37 shows it with a cable not included in the kit.

The ladders assembled easily, but keep the upper and lower halves together to be sure they align on the gun. The walkways

proved challenging, with numerous ejectorpin marks underneath each that are difficult to eliminate.

There is only one choice of color for the gun: gray. Soar Art Workshop’s Facebook page had pictures of the finished model that were helpful for detail painting.

Online chatter claims that the bases are inaccurate, but I wasn’t able to confirm it from the few pictures I found.

I spent much of the 36 hours it took to build the gun removing ejector-pin marks and surface imperfections, but enjoyed the process nonetheless. It would be good for anyone who has built a couple of models.

– Mike Scharf

Kit: No. 35002 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Soar Art, www.soarart.com Price: $149.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 293 parts (2 vinyl) Pros: Easy build; impressive finished model Cons: Parts omitted from upper and lower carriages; mistakes in instructions

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MD, BALTIMORE: Maraudercon 2016 presented by IPMS Baltimore and Washington, DC. Level Volunteer Fire Company, 3633 Level Village Road, Havre de Grace, MD. Saturday, November 19, 2016, 9:00am-5:00pm. Contest: 69 categories and special awards; registration $15.00; Under 12 and spouses/children of entrants free; Walk-ins $8.00; Vendor tables $40.00 each. Prizes; RafďŹ&#x201A;e; See www.maraudercon.org; E-mail maltizer1@verizon.net, 410-682-4939 or garymichel13@yahoo.com, 301-922-5308.

A BIG BUYER OF AIRCRAFT, Armor, Sci-Fi, Resin, Hybrid or Plastic kits. We buy collections whether they are small or large- Worldwide as well. Call Don Black toll free 1-866-4627277. Don Black, 119 Bernhurst Road, New Bern, NC 28560.

E-mail don@donblack.com

FOR SALE ATLANTIS MAIL ORDER HOBBY SUPPLY Deep Discounts on Thousands of New Kits. Send $3.95 for Catalog to: 9 Connor Lane, Unit-G, Deer Park, NY 11729, 631-499-6733 CANOPY MASKING AND MORE! WWW.EZMASKS. COM List $3.00. Chris Loney, 75 Golf Club Rd., Smiths Falls, ON, Canada K7A 4S5. 613-283-5206, ezmasks@gmail.com SHIP AND AIRCRAFT MODELS. Built for display. For additional information contact, Ray Guinta, PO Box 74, Leonia, NJ 07605. www.rayguinta.com THOUSANDS OF MODEL KITS for sale. All types from Old Aurora to new releases. Send a 70¢ SASE to: Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington, Owosso, MI 48867. Specify Military List.

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E-mail: dean@deanshobbystop.com WOODEN SHIP MODEL KITS BlueJacket Shipcrafters, Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest wooden model maker has produced the ďŹ nest ship model kits since 1905! With over 75 ship model kits from museum quality to kits for the beginner, we bring maritime history alive with exquisitely detailed model ships from the early days of sail, to square rigged and clipper ships, to the warriors of WWII, and the workhorses of the sea. Visit us at www.bluejacketinc.com to enter the world of wooden ship modeling.

AIRCRAFT, ARMOR, SCI-FI, FIGURES, AUTO, ETC. Buying kit collections, large or small, worldwide. Top prices paid. Call Jim Banko 610-814-2784 or mail list to 122 Independence Ct., Bethlehem, PA 18020, fax 610-439-4141. E-mail: cth1@prodigy.net CASH PAID FOR PLASTIC MODEL COLLECTIONS. Call Tracie in Michigan 248-814-8359. Fax: 248-814-0385.

E-mail: ďŹ&#x201A;ightlinehobby@yahoo.com I WANT TO BUY YOUR UNBUILT MODEL KITS. Any size collection. Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington St. Owosso, MI 48867. 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: dean@deanshobbystop.com MODEL CAR AND TRUCK KITS. Unbuilt or built. Any size collection. Good prices paid. Please contact: Fred Sterns, 48 Standish, Buffalo, NY 14216. Phone: 716-838-6797. Fax: 716-836-6057. E-mail: fsterns@aol.com YOU WILL NEVER FIND TIME TO BUILD ALL THOSE MODELS. Unbuilt kits, diecast aircraft, military books.

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Call BC Models for quote and information at 913-385-9594 or visit www.bcmmodels.com FINESCALE MODELER AUTHOR and IPMS medalist will build your favorite aircraft, specializing in metal ďŹ nishes. Contact John Adelmann at 563-556-7641 or jjadelmann@yahoo.com

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ALASKA • Anchorage

www.anchoragehouseofhobbies.com Alaska’s best hobby supplier since 1964.

Two stories, 6,300sf, 1st floor all R/C, 2nd floor general hobbies, plastics, trains, slot cars, telescopes & more!

ANCHORAGE HOUSE OF HOBBIES

2803 Spenard Rd.

907-277-7778

ARKANSAS • Jacksonville

Headquarters for scale hobbies. Models; N-HO-O trains; gaming; tools; paints, etc.

Discounts & special orders.

Open 10-6, closed Sundays and Wednesdays www.railandspruehobbies.com

RAIL & SPRUE HOBBIES

1200 John Harden Dr.

501-982-6836

CALIFORNIA • Burbank

Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online www.houseofhobbies.com Secure online ordering

BURBANK’S HOUSE OF HOBBIES

911 S. Victory Blvd.

818-848-3674

CALIFORNIA • Canoga Park

Kits, plastic & wood, Slot cars & toys. Rockets, paint, glue and tools. Trains from Z to O. Mon 10-5; Tue-Fri 10-7; Sat 10-5; Closed Sun & Big Holidays. www.scalemodelstuff.com

SCALE MODEL STUFF

7259 Canoga Avenue

818-716-7847

CALIFORNIA • Garden Grove

Rewards program for 10% back on purchases.

Plastic aircraft, armor, ships, cars, decals, books, paints, tools, miniatures war-games.

Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 10-midnight, Sun 11-7 www.brookhursthobbies.com

BROOKHURST HOBBIES

12188 Brookhurst St.

714-636-3580

CALIFORNIA • Hollister

Model planes, car, ships & figures. Model train scales: Z, N, HO, O & G. Paints, tools. R/C & parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, supplies, products. Clinics available. Tu-Sat 11 -6; Sun 12-4. www.debbiebartunek@mac.com

B.C.T. HOBBY & CRAFTS

201-C McCray St.

831-635-0537

CALIFORNIA • Orange

New Products, Old Kits & Great Service!

Everything you need to build plastic models Armor, Aircraft, Ships, Cars, SciFi and more.

M-F 10:30-6pm, Sat 10:30-5pm, Sun 12-5pm www.militaryhobbiesonline.com

MILITARY HOBBIES

830 E. Lincoln Ave.

714-637-1211

CONNECTICUT • East Windsor

Old & rare kits, largest selection in military kits, rockets, & cars. Exit 45 off I-91.

10 minutes from Bradley Air Museum. www.craftechobbies.com or Visit us on Facebook.

CRAFTEC HOBBIES

144 North Road

860-627-7811

CONNECTICUT • Manchester

Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks.

Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games!

Mon-Wed 10-6 Th-Fri 10-9 Sat-Sun 10-6

TIME MACHINE HOBBY

860-646-0610

71 Hilliard St.

CONNECTICUT • Milford

Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tues - Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5. www.HQHobbies.com

HQ HOBBIES

394 New Haven Ave., Unit 1

203-882-1979

FLORIDA • Ft. Myers

Plastic modeling kits.

Paint, tools, scenery, accessories, & scale model railroads.

Mon - Sat 10:00am-6:00pm; Closed Sun www.metrotrainsandhobbies.com

METRO TRAINS & HOBBIES

12951 Metro Parkway

239-332-0422

GEORGIA • Blue Ridge

Huge selection of model kits & accessories.

Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Figures, Cars and more.

Visit: www.freetimehobbies.com for complete listing.

Monday to Friday 10-5, Saturday 10-4

FREE TIME HOBBIES

47 Dunbarton Farm Rd.

706-946-1120

HAWAII • Kailua, Oahu

Wide selection of plastic model kits, paint, books, magazines and tools.

Located on the beautiful windward side, a scenic 20 minute drive from Honolulu.

Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-2

WELLER'S HOBBYCRAFT

767 Kailua Road

808-262-0211

MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston) Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available.

Info: hobbybunker.com

HOBBY BUNKER, INC.

33 Exchange St.

781-321-8855

MASSACHUSETTS • Marlboro

Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE! We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books.

Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr 'til 8.

Visit us @ www.sparetimeshop.com

THE SPARE TIME SHOP

Rt 20E Main, Post Rd. Plaza

508-481-5786

MASSACHUSETTS • Norton

6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-fi. Reference books & supplies.

Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. www. mymummy.com E: mummy@mymummy.com

HARRY’S HOBBIES & COLLECTABLES

250 E. Main St., Rt 123

508-285-8080

CALIFORNIA • San Mateo

MICHIGAN • Owosso

Your source for plastic models, die cast and all supplies needed to finish your latest model.

Mon-Sat 9:30-6, Sun 11-5. www.talbotstoyland.com

Thousands of model kits from old Aurora to new releases. Mon 4pm-7pm, Tues - Fri 11:30am-5pm. Sat 11:30am-4:00pm E-mail: dean@deanshobbystop.com

TALBOT’S HOBBIES

445 South “B” Street

650-342-0126

COLORADO • Aurora

Large inventory of models from the world over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and supplies. Easy access from D.I.A. http://www.colpar.com

COLPAR HOBBIES

1915 S. Havana St.

800-876-0414

CONNECTICUT • Cos Cob

New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more. www.michtoy.com

MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO.

248-586-1022

MICHIGAN • Traverse City

Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.

ANN’S HOBBY CENTER

405 E. Putnam Avenue

989-720-2137

MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit)

1400 E. 11 Mile Rd.

203-869-0969

Ad Index

We believe that our readers are as important as our advertisers. If you do not receive your merchandise or a reply from an advertiser within a reasonable period, please contact us.

Provide details about what you ordered and the amount you paid. If no action is obtained after we forward your complaint to the advertiser, we will not accept further advertising from them. FineScale Modeler magazine, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187. The Advertiser Index is provided as a service to FineScale Modeler magazine readers. The magazine is not responsible for omissions or for typographical errors in names or page numbers.

MODELCAVE

103 W. Michigan Avenue

734-316-2281

NEVADA • Las Vegas While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories.

Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.

HOBBYTOWN USA

4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103

702-889-9554

NEW HAMPSHIRE • Dover

ELITE HOBBIES

603-749-0800

NEW JERSEY • Kenvil

KENVIL HOBBIES

973-584-1188

NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden) Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days

AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS

706 N. White Horse Pike

856-435-7645

NEW YORK • Buffalo

SECTION 8 HOBBIES

716-824-1049

NEW YORK • Middle Island

MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.

631-924-0583

NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum.

Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits.

Open 7 days.

JAN'S HOBBY SHOP, INC.

1435 Lexington Ave.

212-987-4765

OHIO • Columbus

HOBBYLAND

614-888-7500

206 Graceland Blvd.

Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint and aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains and sci-fi. Special orders welcome! Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 1-6 Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com

TOP SHELF MODELS

918-274-0433

OREGON • Beaverton Complete full line hobby shop.

Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon-Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.

TAMMIES HOBBIES

12024 SW Canyon Rd.

TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES

231-947-1353

HOBBYTOWN USA

11145 Turkey Dr.

865-675-1975

HO & N, Lionel trains.

Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies.

Open 11am-6pm M-F, Sat. 10am-5pm www.gandgmodelshop.com

G & G MODEL SHOP

2522 Times Blvd.

713-529-7752

Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes.

Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7.

Sat 10:30-6. www.malhobby.com

M-A-L HOBBY SHOP

108 S. Lee Street

972-438-9233

TEXAS • San Antonio

Scale modeling from beginner to expert.

A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10am-6pm.

DIBBLE'S HOBBIES

1029 Donaldson Ave.

210-735-7721

Minutes from Dulles Airport & New Dulles Air & Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center.

PLASTIC! PLASTIC! PLASTIC! Kits for aircraft - armor - ships - cars Daily 12-8; Sun 12-5. www.piperhobby.com

PIPER HOBBY

13892 Metrotech Dr.

703-803-3103

Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models.

Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle! www.skywaymodel.com

SKYWAY MODEL SHOP

12615 Renton Ave. South

206-772-1211

CANADA–AB • Calgary

Specializing in R/C models and accessories, helicopters, planes, cars, trucks, boats, plastic, die-cast & model rockets.

M T W F 9:30-6, Th 9:30-8 Sat. 9:30-5 www.modelland.com info@modelland.com

MODEL LAND LTD

3409A 26 Ave. SW

403-249-1661

CANADA–ON • Ottawa (Vanier)

Great selection of model kits, accessories, detail parts, magazines, tools & paints. www.hobbylandstores.com

119 S. Main St.

East Tennessee’s largest plastic model selection. 8,000 sq. ft. of hobbies & toys.

Located in Knoxville’s premier shopping destination. Turkey Creek Area.

Open 7 days a week.

WASHINGTON • Seattle

Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies.

Books and magazines.

134 Middle Country Rd.

717-898-7119

VIRGINIA • Chantilly

WNY’s largest selection of models!!!

We specialize in models. New, old, rare and vintage. Tons of detail and weathering products, paint, tools and so much more!

2243 Seneca St.

COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES

106 W. Main Street

TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)

Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details!

590 Rt. 46

Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tue - Thur 10-6, Fri 10-7, Sat 10-4 www.CoolTrains.com

TEXAS • Houston

Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors #334 90 Washington St.

PENNSYLVANIA • Landisville (Lancaster)

TENNESSEE • Knoxville

503-644-4535

OREGON • Hillsboro

Let your imagination run wild!

Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, model railroading Z to G and more...

210 East Front St.

Your single stop model building shop.

Michigan’s largest selection of new and vintage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5 Visit us on Facebook. www.modelcave.com

OKLAHOMA • Owasso

DEAN’S HOBBY STOP

116 N. Washington Street

MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit

Full service hobby shop.

Over 6,000 recently acquired models.

All the supplies you need to build your model. www.hillsborohobby.com

One of Canada's leading model shops.

Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories.

Free parking. On Parle Francais.

HOBBY HOUSE, LTD

80 Montreal Rd.

613-749-5245

CANADA–ON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products.

Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com

WHEELS AND WINGS

1880 Danforth Ave.

416-752-0071

Run your Retail Directory ad in the next issue of

FineScale Modeler!

Call 888-558-1544, ext. 815 for more information.

HILLSBORO HOBBY SHOP

345 E. Main St.

503-648-3788

Acrylicos Vallejo _______________ 15

FineScale Modeler Magazine _____ 63

Roll Models___________________ 64

Alpha Precision Abrasives, Inc._____ 6

Hobbylink Japan _______________ 67

Sprue Brothers _________________ 6

ARA Press_____________________ 8

Hornby America ________________ 6

Squadron Mail Order ____________ 2

Bluejacket Shipcrafters ___________ 9

MegaHobby.com_______________ 64

Tamiya America, Inc. ____________ 4

Colpar’s Hobbytown USA _______ 64

Michigan Toy Soldier Co.________ 64

Today’s Acrylic ________________ 64

Dean’s Hobby Stop _____________ 64

Micro-Mark ___________________ 9

TotalNavy.com ________________ 64

Dragon Models USA ___________ 68

Oldmodelkits.com _____________ 64

Zvezda USA __________________ 64

Evergreen Scale Models __________ 9

Pace Enterprises ________________ 6

Fantastic Plastic Models _________ 64

ParaGrafix _____________________ 6 www.FineScale.com

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FINAL DETAILS

By Mark Hembree

That’s no moon!

Y

ou could see this one coming.

When Disney acquired Lucasfilm in 2012, Disney devotees probably didn’t worry too much about it. Many Star Wars fans fretted.

Could humor be far behind?

It’s never far from the mind of Bill Paul. A longtime regular at IPMS/ USA conventions, the Warner Robins, Ga., modeler has submitted several entries in the humor category throughout the years. As the 2016 Nationals at Columbia, S.C., approached, he was looking for something he could transform into at least a chuckle. That’s when he spotted AMT/Ertl’s 1/520,000 scale Star Wars Death Star.

“It just kind of hit me,” he says. “You know, put a couple of antennas up there and it would look a little bit like Mickey.

“With Disney taking over the Star Wars franchise, it seemed a natural.”

Mounting the antennas, built up from sections of Christmas ornaments, turned out to be the most difficult part of the model. The finish was basic — Testors Model Master dark ghost gray and a dark wash to deepen the details.

Then Bill turned his attention to the display base. He used an acrylic picture box and, shopping for mounting hardware, spotted a chrome-plated toiletpaper holder that would work well with the 1⁄4" bolt he used for a mount.

The picture frame was perfect for displaying a placard Bill designed, merging Mickey with Star Wars imagery. It seems the Mouse is now the Master.

Bill found another, similar picture box with recording capability. He gutted that and installed the audio innards in his base so it plays a theme. The coup de grâce is a pushbutton that cues Mickey’s Imperial March, a melancholy mashup of Darth Vader’s walk-on music and the theme from the Mickey Mouse Club’s 1950s TV show.

Definitely a star at the contest, Bill’s build took third place — but, having photographed it at the show, we knew it wasn’t going to be the last time anyone would see it.

It’s a small world, after all. FSM 66 FineScale Modeler December 2016

www.FineScale.com

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