fm.10.2013

Complex German Camo made easy p.20 October 2013 www.FineScale.com

GreaT Gloss

airbrush perfeCT hiGh-Gloss finishes wiTh aCryliC painTs

6

pages o f readers’ our bes models t p.30

Semper Fi! Aaron Skinner’s 1/48 scale Marine F9F-2 Panther – p.24

how To

superdetail small-scale armor p.48 update a world war i battleship p.42 improve an aircraft model with scratchbuilt details p.36 Trumpeter’s new 1/200 scale battleship Bismarck is more than four feet long!

bonus online ConTenT Code paGe 5

Our EXPErT mOdElErs build & rEviEw 8 nEw kiTs p.54

Vol. 31 • Issue 8

Inside

October 2013 • Vol. 31 • No. 8 Online Content Code: FsM1310 Enter this code at www.Finescale.com/code to gain access to web-exclusive content.

62 Airbrushing & Finishing

20

Painting German three-color camouflage Apply a late-war scheme to finish a Panther you can be proud of

WorKbench revieWs

8 NEW KITS p.54

AARON SKINNER

• Trumpeter Bismarck • Airfix Typhoon IB

cover storY

24

56

Glossing with acrylics Paint additives and perpetual prep give this Panther a silky sheen

• Dragon Type 95 “Ha-Go” light tank

AARON SKINNER

• Roden C-47 Skytrain

• Azur Fromm Mystère IVA 57

• Zvezda Tiger I Ausf E

36

Improving and updating a J-8 “Finback” Scratchbuilt details help bring a Chinese fighter forward

• AZ Model P-26 Peashooter • HobbyBoss P-61B Black Widow

58

TOM BERRES

42

Detailing HMS Dreadnought Fire off a salvo of aftermarket goods to build this battlewagon better DON STAUFFER

48

Finishing a tiny Sturmtiger It’s mighty small in 1/72 scale, but this little model packs a punch

in every issue 6 8 12 14 30

Editor’s Page Scale Talk Spotlight New Products Reader Gallery

52 53 64 65 65

Questions & Answers Reader Tips Hobby Shop Directory Classified Marketplace Advertiser Index

on the cover FSM Associate Editor Aaron Skinner shows how to put a high shine on sea blue gloss. Paint additives help, but it all starts with surface preparation … and continues with more prep … and more prep …

KARL LOGAN

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FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187. Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional ofces. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.

Editor’s Page

By Matthew Usher

Come on in and join the conversation!

WELComE to the October Associate Publisher – welcome issue! This one’s full of great feaMark Savage! Some of you with tures, but for me, the real standout connections to the hobby industry is our cover story, Aaron Skinner’s may recognize Mark’s name from F9F-2 Panther. I know his work on one of our the thought of taking on The nexT sister publications, Model a project with a highTime you’re Retailer, where he served gloss finish is intimidat- online, as Editor for several years ing to a lot of modelers, Take a few in the early 2000s. Mark and not without good is a top-notch journalist minuTes reason. It’s truly one of with a great sense of and visiT those techniques where what makes this hobby The fsm all the steps have to be (and this magazine) tick, forum completed in just the and we couldn’t be hapright order for everything pier to have him as part to come together properly in the of the team here at FSM. end. Aaron does a great job of explaining the process every step If you haven’t done so already, the of the way. It’s a great article, and next time you’re online, take a few hopefully it’ll inspire you to conminutes to visit our website, and sider something shiny for your particularly the FineScale Modeler next project.

Forum. The Forum hosts conversations from more than 30,000 modelers from around the world, FineScale Modeler has a new

so you’ll undoubtedly find plenty of other modelers who share your interests. In addition to its social side, the Forum is a great place to ask (and answer) modeling-related questions. It’s a fantastic archive of information, and best of all, with its worldwide audience, it’s always up-to-date and full of lively conversation. Stop by soon and I’m sure you’ll see what I mean.

Until next time, enjoy the issue!

editor@finescale.com

www.FineScale.com Want to learn more? For the latest news as well as modeling tips and techniques, visit our website at www.FineScale.com

Contact Us GENERAL

SCALE TALK

Editorial: FineScale Modeler 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612 262-796-8776, weekdays 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. CT Fax: 262-796-1383 editor@finescale.com Website: www.FineScale.com

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6

FineScale Modeler

October 2013

READER GALLERY

Show off your handiwork! Mail digital images or prints along with complete caption information to “Reader Gallery” (address at left), or upload digital images and caption information at www.

Contribute.Kalmbach.com. We prefer unedited, “camera raw”

digital images. Photos are paid for at publication; if you live in the U.S., include your Social Security number so we can pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the images upon payment. Unused photos are returned only if you provide sufficient postage and packing materials.

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

Got a modeling problem? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. Mail questions to “Q&A” (address at left), e-mail questions@finescale.com, or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” (For scale modeling basics, visit our website and look through our “How To” article archives.) We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. We publish

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Would you like to share an idea about a tool or technique — and make a few dollars too? Send a brief description along with a photograph or sketch to “Reader Tips” (mail address at left; please enclose a stamped, self-addressed envelope for the return of photos.

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PAINT BOOTHS

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Editor Matthew W. Usher Associate Editor Mark Hembree Associate Editor Tim Kidwell Associate Editor Aaron Skinner Editorial Associate Monica Freitag Art Director Tom Ford Senior Graphic Designer Patti L. Keipe Illustrator Jay W. Smith Photographers Jim Forbes, William Zuback Production Supervisor Helene Tsigistras Production Coordinator Cindy Barder Group Circulation Manager Kristin Johnson Circulation Coordinator Carly Witkowski Associate Publisher Mark Savage ContACt uS

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SubSCRIPtIon RAtES: U.S., 10 issues, $39.95; 20 issues, $74.95; 30 issues, $106.95. Canada, 10 issues, US$47.95; 20 issues, US$87.95; 30 issues, US$126.95.

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Goodyear (and wing foot design) and Eagle are trademarks of The Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company, Akron, Ohio USA used under license by Round 2, LLC. Ford Motor Company Trademarks and Trade Dress used under license to Round 2, LLC. www.FordMotorCompany. com. AMT and design is a registered trademark of Round 2, LLC. ©2013 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. All rights reserved.

October 2013

www.FineScale.com

7

Scale Talk Your voice in FSM

Another happy reader

I just had to write tell you that the July 2013 FSM is the best modeling magazine I have ever read. Aaron Skinner’s technical articles and Matthew Usher’s on clear parts taught me so many new things. Every page in that issue had something of value for me.

I mostly build model cars, but I do have an interest in World War I and II ships and have some in my collection. I have subscribed to Scale Auto for years. I added FSM because I felt I could learn a lot from folks who model different subjects. The July issue sure proved that right!

- Norm Lawrence Central Point, Ore.

Building for fun and health

In the March 2013 FSM, Mont Connell’s letter (Page 10) states the therapeutic value of modeling. I could not agree more!

I had not built any models for about 12 years when, in 2010, I was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis. I returned to modeling originally for something to do with my daughter. I have since realized how model-

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8

FineScale Modeler

October 2013

ing has brought back a lot of my fine muscle control due to painting and detailing.

I also listen to old rock while building.

Keep up the great work!

This kit is well-detailed and includes a one-piece hull and deck. It’s a shame that such a great kit continues to be overlooked.

I feel it is still one of the best!

- William Pierson Spokane, Wash.

- Steve Samuels Westminster, Colo.

An overlooked Enterprise kit

More commercial ships

There is a list of kits of USS Enterprise CVAN-65 in the July 2013 FineScale Modeler’s “History You Can Model” (Page 44). I happen to own every one of the kits listed (including the ITC Cam-a-Matic and original motorized Aurora with painted flight deck and electric motors).

Missing from the list is the excellent Nichimo 1/500 scale kit. I own two of these kits, and, in my opinion, it remains one of the best Enterprise kits ever produced. It can be built static or motorized and is the only kit that includes a complete airwing for the 1968 Vietnam cruise and post-fire 1969 periods. The aircraft include: F-4B, EKA-3B, A-4F, RA-5C, A-6A, A-7E, E-2B, C-1A, and SH-3G. (The A-4 is appropriate for 1968; the A-7 for 1969.)

It seems that if you are not into war, your options for ship models to build are greatly reduced. I could go on at length listing the numerous kits of battleships and submarines and PT boats. How many models of the same warships do we need? Why don’t the kit producers look at the ocean liners that used to travel the world in times of peace?

Manufacturers seem to think there aren’t enough Titanic kits on the market: You can get this ship in any scale from 1/1200 to 1/200.

Why not a kit of the Carpathia, the famed ship that came to the rescue of Titanic’s survivors? What about all the commercial ships that sail the oceans now?

There are plenty to choose from: cable-lay-

ing ships, gas tankers, oil tankers, oil-drilling rigs, car ferries, hydrofoils, cruise ships that ply the rivers of Europe, and heavy-lift ships that transport oil rigs and hoist damaged warships from the water for repair.

And that’s only a short list of possible subjects.

- John Readman Mount Lloyd, Tasmania

John, we understand your frustration.

However, Revell Germany and Aoshima make model kits of commercial maritime vessels, and Hasegawa, Fujimi, Glencoe, and Heller kits of various modern ships are still available, though perhaps not in current production.

Admittedly, the choices are fewer than those of warships. However, as ships go, battleships, especially those of World War II, are the lifeblood of modern ship modeling. Check out the most-wanted kits report in the November issue to see which ship models (among others) FSM readers want to see. — Tim Kidwell Vintage FSM issues are handy

Have you ever heard of Aerograph airbrushes? I recently did what may have been a dumb thing, but I couldn’t resist. I found an offer on the Internet for a compressor and three airbrushes, all for $86!

So, I bought them. The package arrived three days later, and everything looked OK. The compressor hummed; the brushes were all sturdy metal. The only thing missing was a set of instructions. There was a parts list, but that’s all.

Here’s where I did a smart thing: I’ve been cataloging FSM since 1995, so I did a quick search for “airbrush” and found a dozen hits. These articles explained the dif-

More scratchbuilding In the April 2013 FineScale Modeler, there was an article on Page 22 about superdetailing a 1/350 scale Kongo. While aftermarket detail kits are great and have been a boon to the scale modeling hobby, they are pricey.

I know that with the cost of plastic and the time and effort that goes into designing a model that, in order to find a reasonable quality kit, I’m going to have to spend more than I did back when I first started building them myself.

Granted, we’re talking more than 40 years now since I began, and, inflation being what it is, there isn’t much to be done about the cost of a kit. So, I believe passing on ways to help keep those costs down would interest many.

Would FSM consider doing a series of articles about detailing from scratch using common, easily found materials?

Thanks for the time, and keep up the good work.

- Dale R. Sanhuber Milwaukee, Wis.

ferent types of airbrushes, what they’re used for, and how to keep them in good shape.

February and March 1996, and March 2001, were especially valuable. They’re the instructions that should have come with the brushes.

I can never aspire to turning out models like you guys, but I think I’ll be able to do a

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half-decent job airbrushing — if the stuff I bought is any good, that is.

- Tom Bracken Boone, N.C. Stress relief

I don’t often have the time to read anything but aircraft-related articles, but in the

Only the original is more realistic than friulmodel tracks

Webshop:

www.FRIULMODEL.com E-mail: friulmodel.kft@gmail.com • Dealer Inquiries Invited • October 2013

www.FineScale.com

9

Scale Talk March 2013 FSM, the letters referring to modeling as therapy fit me to the inch. I’m 63 and have been modeling since I was 8.

For the past four years, I’ve been forced to put aside modeling due to my mother’s terminal illness and my wife’s breast cancer, which required surgery and therapy.

This January, I put my hands on a resin kit and worked with real passion, every night, not looking for a “Best of Show” medal but to free my mind from everyday work and family situations.

- Armando Gil Caracas, Venezuela Social networking, FSM style

My husband, Ray, has been a modeler all his life and a subscriber to FSM since 1985.

He told me there was a letter to the editor recently from a man who said he was in a modeling club in a high school that his teacher helped start ( July, Page 10).

Ray said, “Guess who the teacher was,” and I said “Chuck Ludwig.” I knew both him and the letter’s author, Michael Auer, because I was in that modeling club, too.

Chuck was one of the best teachers I’ve had and an excellent model builder. Ray

HOW-TO

Accolades for Willie and Joe Nate Jones’ dioramas of Bill Mauldin’s cartoons in the July 2013 FSM brought back memories from more than 40 years ago. I lived in Milwaukee in the late 1960s. When time and funds allowed, I would make trips to The Hobby Chest in Skokie, Ill. I vividly remember a display of 54mm figures that depicted Willie and Joe, the two dogfaces Nate has modeled.

At the time, about the only figures available were lead castings, a few Tamiya and Monogram models, and Historex Napoleonic figures. The Willie and Joe figures must have been scratchbuilt or modifications of these basic figures. In any case, they were exceptional, capturing the facial features, poses, and attitudes of Mauldin’s creations. I only wish I knew who the artist was.

Thank you for bringing back fond memories of Willie and Joe and inspiring a new generation of modelers.

- Fred Stowell Tulsa, Okla. and I have seen his work at a few IPMS/ USA nationals and a show in Arizona.

We have passed on our love of modeling to our daughter and encourage kids to get involved in the hobby. I believe more parents should encourage their children to get into modeling rather than sit around play-

PRODUCTS & REVIEWS

VIDEOS

ing video games all day; it helps teach patience, art, and even a little history. If someone makes a video game requiring modeling skills, we can keep the hobby alive.

- Karolette Peterson Jefferson, Ore.

COMMUNITY

GALLERIES

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FineScale.com/HowTo Article archive Search our article collection to find the answer to your modeling question.

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Tips database Need modeling advice? Subscribers can search our extensive database of reader-supplied tips.

Make your own display base See how Mike Muzyka finishes the bases he makes for his 1/32 scale World War II aircraft.

FineScale.com/Reviews Workbench Reviews Subscribers receive early access to upcoming reviews.

Weekly free review Check out this week’s free model kit review.

FineScale.com/Videos How-to videos FSM staff shows you the skills you need to get the best finish for your models.

Video issue previews FSM Editor Matthew Usher highlights what’s inside the current and past issues.

SUBSCRIBE AT FINESCALE.COM AND GET IMMEDIATE ACCESS The FSM+ icon indicates subscriber-only content.

10

FineScale Modeler

October 2013

Spotlight Compiled by Aaron Skinner

Hobby Q&A Chris Rodak, founder/president of Click2detail

T

he technology of 3-D printing has advanced quickly over the past few years and seems to be in the news all the time. Detailed renderings of complex shapes as single parts makes 3-D printing attractive to modelers, and we are starting to see increased use in the hobby. Click2detail is a printon-demand manufacturer of detail parts and full kits. I had a chance to ask Chris about the company’s mission, vision, and future.

Q

This is a new company in a new field. What is the mission of Click2detail?

Q

Where do the designs come from? Are they all created in-house or do you get submissions from outside designers?

Both. We used contracA tors to design some of our first proof-of-concept prod-

ucts. We’ve recently hired inhouse designers to bring our own ideas to life and be availIs the aim to fill a niche in able for commissioned work. the hobby? Or do you We intend to open the see on-demand printing as the website to designers who want future of manufacturing? to upload and sell their models on consignment.

This really is the We’re working with future of model a talented indepenmanufacturing. dent armor Materials and prodesigner, Michael cesses are improving Kalbfleisch of rapidly even as costs Hephaestus Design are falling. We’re Studios. Michael is making new things the first of these Chris Rodak possible. independent How often does a designers, and he is kit get released, only to have a helping us refine the functionflaw or shortcoming? If that ality and user interfaces. same product were to be We would like to work released by Click2detail, we with established traditional could tweak the CAD file and manufacturers to release printall subsequent prints would on-demand models to comcontain the improvement. plement their existing product No longer is it necessary to lines and re-scale some of kit multiple variants of a subtheir existing kits for release ject. We make it possible to via print-on-demand. buy just the parts you need.

How does Click2detail Obscure subjects with limited decide which subjects to market become cost-effective create? to produce.

Q

Click2detail wants to revA olutionize the scale modA eling industry. We have completely removed tooling and inventory from the supply chain and offer highly specialized items not available from the mass-market.

T he technology allows for endless variations in model design. Many of our products can be easily re-scaled upon request.

There are no sprues, air bubbles, flash, or pour stubs on our models, so you get the parts you want with almost no waste. Every model printed has the same fidelity and detail as the first; there are no production molds or tooling to deteriorate over time, as with injection molding and resin casting.

Q

I’m an airplane guy, so A many of the initial products are things that I have always wanted and felt would be well-received by the marketplace. Once we allow more independent designers to upload products, designers and customers will come together directly to determine which subjects are created.

Q

Is there any limit on the type of details you can create with 3-D printing?

No, not really. We don’t A have any of the detail or geometric limitations associated with designing for resin casting or injection molding.

Current printer resolution allows us to print extremely fine panel lines as well as small rivets and tiny, delicate details.

Many of our products contain geometries that are absolutely impossible to manufacture any other way.

We can create fully articulated assemblies — think tank treads with links already assembled — and parts with many details built in, rather than separate.

Q

Tell me about you: Are you a modeler? If so, how long have you been a hobbyist? What do you build?

I am a professional pilot A with more than 17 years of worldwide flying experience. I’m also the founder and president of 3Delivered Inc., a company providing customized 3-D printing solutions.

I have been a modeler for 25 years. My favorite subject is Cold War-era Soviet aircraft.

Q

What’s the best thing about working for Click2detail?

I’m privileged to work A with an extremely talented and highly motivated group of people. We have a great team with unique skill sets. It’s really magical to see everyone come together to build a business using cuttingedge technologies.

Big-scale little U-boat

L

ess than 120' long, the Type XXIII was a small submarine designed for coastal patrol. It carried two torpedos loaded in bow tubes, and fewer than 20 sailors. Six of the boats went on patrol in the closing months of World War II, including one which sank the last merchant ship of the war in Europe.

Bronco Models has released a 1/35 scale Type XXIII (No. CB35104). The finished model is 39" long, but looks to be a relatively easy build with just 153 plastic parts and a small photoetched-metal fret. Details include torpedoes, tubes with movable

doors, and a well-appointed fair-weather with posable hatches, ladders, and equipment. Decals provide markings for four U-boats.

Distributed in the U.S. by Dragon Models USA, 626-968-0322, www.dragonmodelsusa.com, the Type XXIII costs $99.95.

Most-wanted kit, Dragon’s M48A3, hits shelves

T

he bulk of American armored power in Vietnam was represented by the M48 Patton. It’s a popular modeling subject, but there have only been two 1/35 scale kits: the ancient Monogram M48A2 and the slightly newer (32 years old) M48A3 from Tamiya. Modelers have been asking for a state-of-the-art kit, and Dragon has responded with an all-new tool M48A3 Mod B (No. 3544).

Higher part counts seem to be the norm for armor kits these days, but Dragon’s M48 has only 225 pieces. The use of vinyl tracks helps limit the complexity, and the kit is well-detailed and smartly engineered, so construction should be pretty easy.

There’s no photoetched metal, and the main gun is molded in two parts: The muz-

zle brake and fume extractor are one, the rest of the barrel is the other.

Surface detail on the gray plastic parts is terrific, including restrained-but-effective casting texture on the turret and hull. There are casting numbers on both.

The road wheels have separate tires, which should make painting easy. A small decal sheet provides markings for three U.S. Army and one Marine Corps tank.

Curiously, there are a couple of omissions: The mantlet lacks the bellows-like dust cover, and there is no searchlight.

According to David Doyle’s M48A3 in Vietnam (Squadron/Signal, ISBN 978-089747-611-9), the latter wasn’t fitted to every vehicle. But the mantlet cover was.

Regardless of these minor quibbles, this

“Battlestar Galactica” fans get Pegasus

T

he arrival of Pegasus in the second season of the Syfy network’s “Battlestar Galactica” provided a lot of plot twists and story lines. It also showed how small and obsolete Galactica was.

Fans, including me, have been hoping for a kit of “The Beast,” as

is a beaut of a kit. I expect to see more versions soon. Given the myriad field modifications and stowage on the full-size M48, I also expect to see a lot of them on contest tables.

Distributed in the United States by Dragon Models USA, 626-968-0322, www.dragonmodelsusa.com, the M48A3 costs $49.95.

Pegasus became known, since Moebius released Galactica. Now, it’s here (kit No. 931) and in the same 1/4105 scale as the previous model, molded in light gray plastic with a mix of raised and recessed detail. Major components go together with sturdy locators.

The over-and-under landing bays have decals for the deck approaches, and others for bulkheads to give the impression of depth. The engines have clear caps, an invitation to lighting.

The kit includes decals for Pegasus only. If you want to build other Mercury-class battlestars, pick up the ParaGrafix (508-4319800, www.paragrafix.com) decal set (No. PGX171, $10.95), which has markings for 10 ships. ParaGrafix also has a couple of photoetched-metal detail sets to enhance the kit’s landing bays (No. PGX168, $34.95) and exterior (No. PGX170, $29.95).

The kit costs $64.99. For more information about Pegasus, visit www.moebiusmodels.com.

October 2013

www.FineScale.com

13

New Products

Compiled by Monica Freitag

1/48 Scale KitS

Aircr Aft 1/32 Scale KitS

a3d-2 Skywarrior strategic bomber,

Vought F4U-1 corsair (birdcage),

No. 02868, $99.99. From Trumpeter, available from Squadron Products. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

No. 60324, $199. From Tamiya America Inc. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

a-3 Skywarrior landing gear (for trumpeter), No. 48230, $18.95. Refined

main gear shape. From Scale Aircraft Conversions.

Fw 190 landing gear (for HobbyBoss),

No. 48231, $13.95. From Scale Aircraft Conversions.

Spitfire PR.XiX landing gear (for airfix),

No. 48232, $11.95. From Scale Aircraft Conversions.

F/a-18e/F landing gear (for Hasegawa),

No. 72063, $13.95. From Scale Aircraft Conversions.

Mitsubishi a6M3/5 tail cone set (for tamiya), No. 4293, $10.94. From Czech

Master’s Kits. ta 152 c-11, No. 81704, $27.99. From

1/72 Scale KitS

HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

He 219a-0 Uhu, $191. Super Wing Series No. 6. From Zoukei-Mura Inc. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

1/32 detail SetS a-1 Skyraider landing gear (for trumpeter),

No. 32073, $21.95.

Refined main gear retraction arms. From Scale Aircraft Conversions.

F4U-4B corsair, No. 80388, $55.99. From

de Havilland Vampire FB.5, No. 5085, $24.95. From Cyber-hobby.com, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

Heinkel He 111/H-2/H-3 exhausts (for Revell), No. Q32-164, $9.22. Quick & Easy,

from Czech Master’s Kits.

Heinkel He 111H/P instrument panels (for Revell), No. Q32-159, $9.22. Quick & Easy,

from Czech Master’s Kits.

dornier do 335 Pfeil heavy fighter,

Heinkel He 111H/P seatbelt with harness (for Revell), No. Q32-160, $9.22. Quick &

Messerschmitt Me 262a-1a, No. 85-5322,

$19.95. From Revell.

Easy, from Czech Master’s Kits.

P-61B cockpit and gunner station (for HobbyBoss), No. BLC32059, $39.99. Resin.

1/48 detail SetS

From Avionix, available from Squadron Products.

No. 4287, $18.18. From Czech Master’s Kits.

Merlin Mk.45/46 British aircraft engine, Merlin Mk.66 British aircraft engine,

No. 4288, $18.18. From Czech Master’s Kits.

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FineScale Modeler

October 2013

No. 80293, $17.99. Easy assembly authentic kit. From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

Soviet tu-2 bomber, No. 80298, $17.99.

Easy assembly authentic kit. From HobbyBoss.

From Squadron Products.

SUBSCRIBER-ONLY CONTENT More than 13,000 product listings online at FineScale.com/Products

1/35 SCaLE KITS

Ar Mor 1/25 SCaLE KITS

Messerschmitt Bf 110 fighter, No. 80292, $17.99. Easy assembly authentic kit. From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

IJN Type 2 (Ka-Mi) amphibious tank wth floating pontoons late production,

Panther a, No. 30612, $119. Tank Classic.

No. 6712, $62.95. 1939-1945 series. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Original kit released in 1972. From Tamiya America Inc.

Manufacturer Directory SH-3B Sea King utility transporter,

No. 5113, $39.99. Golden Wings Series, Smart Kit. From Cyber-hobby.com, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1/72 dETaIL SETS Ventura PV-1 engine cowlings (for academy/Minicraft), No. AL7005, $14.50.

AeroLine from Plus Model.

1/144 dETaIL SETS B-52 Stratofortress landing gear (for Minicraft),

No. 14414, $12.95. From Scale Aircraft Conversions.

1/200 SCaLE KITS

Aero research Co. 6468 Valley Wood Dr. Reno, NV 89523-1263 www.AeroResearchCDs.com Czech Master’s Kits Mezilesi 718 193 00 Prague 9 Czech Republic 420-2-8192-3969 www.cmkkits.com Dragon Models USA Inc. 1315 John Reed Ct. City of Industry, CA 91745 626-968-0322 www.dragonmodelsusa.com Friulmodellismo Via Pazzan 73-33010 Pagnacco (ud) Italy Mirror Models Ltd. www.mirror-models.com Moebius Models PO Box 229372 Glenwood, FL 32722 386-956-4133 www.moebiusmodels.com Pacific Coast Models Inc. 2987 Wiljan Courti Santa Rosa, CA 95407 www.pacmodels.com

OS2U Kingfisher with launcher,

No. RS20003, $17.95. From Riich Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Plus Model 370 10 Ceske Budejovice Jizni 56, Czech Republic 38-7220111 www.plusmodel.cz

Squadron Products 1115 Crowley Dr. Carrollton, TX 75011-5010 877-414-0434 www.squadron.com

red Kite PO Box 223 Walton on Thames Surrey United Kingdom KT12 3YQ www.redkitebooks.co.uk www.wingleader.co.uk

Squadron/Signal Publications 1115 Crowley Dr. Carrollton, TX 75006-1312 www.squadron.com

revell 1850 Howard Street, Unit A Elk Grove Village, IL 60007 847-758-3200 www.revell.com Scale Aircraft Conversions 3795 Shady Hill Dr. Dallas, TX 75229 214-477-7163 scaleaircraftconversions.com

Tamiya America Inc. 36 Discovery, Ste. 200 Irvine, CA 92618-3765 949-362-2240 www.tamiyausa.com TS Productions 63 Live Oak Run Cartersville, GA 30121 770-334-3939 www.TSHobbies.com Zoukei-Mura Inc. www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/index. html

www.FineScale.com FineScale Modeler magazine receives new products from a variety of manufacturers on a daily basis and we are now able to share all of them with you through our interactive exclusive FSM product database. Click on the Product News link at www.FineScale.com.

A description of our new-product announcement and review policies is available from Product News Coordinator, FSM, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187, 262-796-8776, fax 262-796-1383, or e-mail at newproducts@finescale.com.

FineScale Modeler is not responsible for content of external sites linked through our site.

Visit our website at www.FineScale.com.

October 2013

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15

New Products

PzKpfw III Ausf M 2cm Flakvierling 38,

15cm Sturminfanteriegeschütz 33,

No. 6778, $49.99. Smart Kit. From Cyberhobby, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

No. 6749, $54.95. 1939-1945 series, Smart Kit. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

DAK Topolino (German/Italian) light staff car with crew and IF8 infantry cart,

No. CB35156, $34.95. From Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

3.7cm Flak 37, No. 6483, $19.95. 19391945 series. Smart Kit. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

StuG III Ausf A (Michael Wittmann “LAH” Barbarossa 1941), No. 9143, $29.95.

Super Value Kit. From Cyber-hobby, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

V3000S/SS M Maultier with 7.62 cm PaK 36(r), No. 35803, $51.99. From ICM. From

Squadron Products.

M48A3 Mod B, No. 3544, $49.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

PzKpfw I mit Abwurfvorrichtung,

No. 6480, $49.95. 1939-1945 series, Smart Kit. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. Kadett K38 Saloon, No. 35478, $37.95.

From ICM, available from Squadron Products.

25-pounder ammo set and No. 27 limber with canvas cover, No. AB3551, $22.95.

T-80U Russia’s main battle tank,

No. XS35001, $69.90. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From Xact Scale Models, available from Pacific Coast Models Inc.

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FineScale Modeler

October 2013

From Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. KrAZ-255B, No. 805, $64.99. From Roden,

available from Squadron Products.

Leopard 1/Gepard/AS90, No. ATL-141,

$35. From Friulmodellismo.

M48/M60/M88 T142 type track,

No. ATL-142, $39. From Friulmodellismo.

M48/M60/M88 T97E2 type track,

No. ATL-143, $39. From Friulmodellismo.

1/72 SCALE KITS

AEC Mk.II armored car, No. 35155, $69.

Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From MiniArt, available from Model Rectifier Corporation .

StuG III Ausf G late production December 1944, No. 6593, $54.95. 1939-1945 series,

Smart Kit. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Long range desert group patrol car with 2cm cannon, No. 7504, $19.95. Armor Pro.

From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

M109 US self-propelled howitzer Vietnam War, No. 37013, $65. From Tamiya America

Inc.

SdKfz 3 Maultier ambulance, No. 6766, $58.95. 1939-1945 series, Smart Kit. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Flakpanzer 341 mit 2cm Flakvierling,

No. 7487, $22.95. Armor Pro. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Hungarian 43M Toldi III (C40) light tank,

T-20 Komsomoletz Russian artillery tractor — early, No. 35200, $49.95. From Mirror

No. 82479, $47.99 . From HobbyBoss, available from Squadron Products.

Models Ltd., available from Stevens International.

1/35 DETAIL SETS M-108/M-109 Paladin T-136 type track (early), No.

ATL-139, $35.

From Friulmodellismo.

US M22 “Locust” airborne tank (T9E1),

Japan ground self defense force 3.5t truck with waterwagon and kitchenwagon,

No. 002353-2400, $34.95. Military model kit series. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. IS-2 Soviet heavy tank, No. 5011, $14.95.

Snap fit, no glue required. From Zvezda, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

No. CB35162, $39.95. From Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

October 2013

www.FineScale.com

17

New Products east Meet West (elbe River 1945),

ShipS

No. RV35014, $15.95. From Riich Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1/35 scale kits

German Z-38 Destroyer, No. 7134, German type XXiii U-boat coastal submarine, No. CB35104, $99.95. Look for a

detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM. From Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

$26.95. Modern Sea Power Series, Smart Kit. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1/700 scale kits

1/350 scale kits

Gebirgsjäger crete 1941, No. 6742, $16.95. 1939-1945 series. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1/48 scale kits

Uss Arkansas cGN-41, No. 7124, $34.95.

Uss Los Angeles 688 class ssN with DsRV-1, No. RN28008, $26.95. From Riich

Smart Kit. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

WWii German luftwaffe pilots and ground personnel in winter uniform,

No. 48086, $21.99. From ICM, available from Squadron Products.

MiG-15 pilot, No. AL4026, $11.20.

AeroLine, from Plus Model.

Uss Hammann DD-412 Us Navy destroyer, No. 31911, $21. From Tamiya

America Inc. U.s. Navy DsRV-1 Mystic, No. RN28009,

$14.95. From Riich Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

military figureS

autoS 1/24 scale kits

1/35 scale kits

HMas Collins, No. ANN001, $24.99. From Showcase Models Australia, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

“the Road Warrior (Mad Max 2)” interceptor, No. 043661, $49.95.

Japanese army infantry Peleliu 1944,

www.fineScale.com

featuring reviews, product information, photo galleries, and more!

18

FineScale Modeler

October 2013

No. 6555, $16.95. From Dragon, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. WWii British and commonwealth war correspondent set, No. CB35140, $18.95.

From Bronco Models, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Photoetched-metal parts included. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. “Miami Vice” Daytona spyder,

No. 85-4917, $24.95. From Revell.

Luftwaffe Crash Archive Volume 2, $38

tool S

by Nigel Parker, soft cover, 256 pages, all blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-1-90875706-7. From Red Kite.

handy craft saw ii, No. 74111, $13.50.

From Tamiya America Inc. “The Dark Knight Trilogy” Batmobile,

No. 943, $39.99. From Moebius Models.

Science Fiction OTher scale KiTs

electronic media MiG pigment rack, No. TSP-MIG15, $24.99.

Holds 15 pots of MiG pigments; Glue pallet,

UsN/UsMc F-4 Phantoms Part 3, No.

No. TSP-AR01$12.99. From TS Productions.

1046, $12.95.

From Aero Research Co.

bookShelF C-17 Globemaster III in Action, $18.95 by

Bill Norton, soft cover, 80 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-0-89747-723-9. From Squadron/Signal Publications.

Thunderbird 5 & 3, No. 005262-5800, $76.95. Space Science Series. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

miScell aneouS 1/35 scale KiTs WWi austro-hungarian infantry weapon and equipment, No. 35671, $18.99. From

ICM, available from Squadron Products.

Us scooter sidecar, No. 362; Us scooter solo, No. 360, $17.90 each. From Plus Model.

1/35 DeTail seTs

B-25 Mitchell in Action, $18.95 by David

Doyle, soft cover, 80 pages, all color photos, ISBN: 978-0-89747-625-6. From Squadron/ Signal Publications.

The Complete DUKW Historical Reference,

Bags, No. 295, $15.80. From Plus Model.

Wooden gate - straight, No. 432; Wooden gate - round, No. 431, $11.50 each. From

Plus Model.

$59.99 by David Doyle, hard cover, 304 pages, some color photos, mostly blackand-white photos, ISBN: 978-0-89747720-8. From Squadron/

antitank grenades, No. EL057, $4.60. Easy

Line, from Plus Model.

1/48 DeTail seTs raF hc bomb Mk.i “cookies,” 4000lb, 2 pieces, No. 4294, $16.87. From Czech

Master’s Kits.

1/72 DeTail seTs raF hc bomb Mk.i “cookies,” 4000lb, 4 pieces, No. 7237, $13.57. From Czech

Master’s Kits.

Signal Publications.

October 2013

www.FineScale.com

19

ING & SH

IS

AIRBRU

How to finish a splashy Panther • BY AAron Skinner

HING

Painting German three-color camo FIN

Primer and base color provided the foundation for stripes of red brown and green on this Panther. A steady hand, properly thinned paint, and low air pressure were key elements.

P

art of the attraction of modeling World War II German armor is the endless variety of camouflage applied to the vehicles.

In 1943, overall dark gray gave way to dunkelgelb (dark yellow). Units were supplied with two colors — olive green and red brown — in the form of a thick paste that was to be thinned with gasoline or

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FineScale Modeler

October 2013

water, then applied to the vehicles to camouflage them for local conditions using a spray gun, brushes, or mops.

These schemes are certainly cool, but they can be challenging to apply realistically to a model. I built a Dragon 1/35 scale Panther G and finished it as a tank from the 106th Panzer Brigade in northern France in 1944.

1 Here’s the model before painting. You can see the gray plastic, pinkish Dragon Styrene stowage boxes, photoetched-brass engine grilles, and copper-wire hooks. There are two schools of thought when it comes to attaching stowage and tools: Is it better to add them before or after painting? I prefer the former because I get better bonds with bare plastic and there’s less chance of messing up the paint with glue.

3 Next came primer. I used Testors Model Master enamel rust (No. 1785) as a close match to the red oxide primer used on German tanks. Using a single-action airbrush set to a fairly narrow spray pattern with the pressure at 35 psi, I started by spraying paint into nooks and crannies, like those behind suspension arms. The higher pressure ensures paint gets behind things. But you have to keep the brush moving to prevent runs.

5 Once the details and the areas behind and around them were covered, I widened the airbrush’s spray pattern and filled in the large areas of the hull and turret. Afterwards, I set the model in a dust-free spot to dry.

Because I was using enamels, I didn’t want to paint again for 48 hours.

2 First, I painted the road-wheel tires with Testors Model Master enamel schwarzgrau (No. 2094). I knew that I would probably need to touch these up after painting, but I wanted them to be as dark as possible. I mixed 2 parts paint with 1 part Testors Model Master thinner and sprayed the paint through a single-action airbrush at about 20 psi, turning the sprues several times to ensure good coverage.

4 The focus here is to make sure the primer color covers the model. This pre-shading will serve as shadow detail under tools and stowage later, and will cover all of the disparate materials to provide a uniform base for the dark yellow.

6 I mixed 3 parts Testors Model Master dunkelgelb (No. 2085) with 1 part Testors Airbrush Thinner (No. 1789) and stirred it thoroughly. With the needle set to a relatively narrow pattern and the pressure at 20 psi, I airbrushed panel centers, working outward to the edges.

October 2013 www.FineScale.com

21

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I sprayed thin coats of dark yellow, feathering them to panel edges, preshading the camouflage. A light touch and patience are the watchwords here. The rust color shouldn’t be visible, just a hint through the topcoat.

9

On large areas, such as the glacis plate, I sprayed dunkelgelb in a random pattern to vary the density of the color and let a little more of the rust show in places. This gave the finish a less uniform appearance.

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Keep turning the model around as you spray the paint to be sure the dunkelgelb covers everything. Changing the hull’s angle revealed bare primer on the rack for the jack block.

After two days, I was ready to add the stripes. The pattern of olive green and red-brown seems random, but I wanted to be sure I replicated the look of the stripes in terms of numbers and density. Using a No. 2 pencil, I sketched reference lines for the green camouflage.

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I mixed equal parts Model Master Panzer olivgrun 1943 (No. 2097) and thinner. This paint is a little thinner than usual, making it easier to build up the stripes. I started with a fine double-action airbrush setting the pressure to 12 psi. Holding the tip about 3â „4" off the surface, I started the airflow and pulled the trigger back to paint.

Keeping the brush moving back and forth along the pencil line, I gradually built up the green stripe and varied the width of the stripe to mimic the way the camouflage was applied in the field.

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FineScale Modeler

October 2013

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Usually, we advise starting and ending airbrush passes off the model.

But this kind of camouflage doesn’t always lend itself to that. If you have to start a pass on the model, clear the nozzle off the model with a blast of air. Otherwise you can get splatter on the surface, as I did here. Don’t panic: We’ll clean up the spatter in due time.

Switching to a single-action airbrush after tip-drying problems with the double-action, I added the red-brown stripes with Model Master 1943 Panzer schokoladenbraun (No. 2096) cut with an equal measure of thinner. I set the pattern narrow, dialed the pressure to 12 psi, and held the brush about 3⁄4" above the model.

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To fix a few splatters and mistakes, I airbrushed thin dunkelgelb along the gaps between the brown and green stripes. This is also a good time to refine the stripes: I realized after the first attempt that they were too narrow, so I applied more olivgrun and schokoladenbraun to plump the pattern and make it look more like the drawing I was following.

To diminish the contrast between stripes and base coat, I added thinner to the dunkelgelb in the reservoir without cleaning the airbrush and misted the thin color over the model at 35 psi with the brush about 6" from the model. Don’t flood the surface; you want just enough color to lighten the red-brown and green stripes, not obliterate them.

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After a coat of acrylic gloss, I applied the few decals to the turret and hand-painted details with Tamiya, Vallejo, and Italeri acrylics. Then I emphasized recesses with a wash of dark brown artist’s oils. I applied dots of the wash at the top of panels, then pulled it down using a brush damp with clean thinner. The wash ran into recesses, deepening them, and left streaks, much as rainwater would.

A coat of clear flat made the surface receptive to dry-brushing. Go lightly: It’s easy to overdo the effect. Some pastel dust finished the job. I kept weathering to a minimum for the time being because I intend to place the Panther in a diorama and I want to be sure the vehicle and the scene are tied together with the same shades of color. FSM

October 2013 www.FineScale.com

23

1/48 Scale | Finishing

Sea blue gloss is, well, glossy! Hobbycraft/Trumpeter’s 1/48 scale F9F-2 proved to be the perfect vehicle to show how Aaron achieves gloss finishes with acrylic paint.

| COVER STORY |

GlossinG with AcrylicS Taking a shine to a Panther is easy with paint additives

By AAron Skinner

M

ilitary aircraft and vehicles, especially those in wartime service, usually wear dull, nonreflective paint. This means that, unless you paint cars or airliners, you rarely deal with gloss paint in anything but hand-brushed amounts — that is, unless your fancy turns to naval aircraft.

Many navy planes are painted with gloss camouflage paint to make them easier to clean and prevent corrosion from the salty sea air. Beginning in 1944, U.S. Navy aircraft were painted overall sea blue gloss.

The secret to great scale gloss is to get the surface as smooth as possible so light 24

FineScale Modeler

October 2013

reflects cleanly. If the surface has much texture, light reflects oddly and the model looks more like a toy. Car modelers specialize in gloss, and they can teach us a lot about how to achieve realistic finishes with surface preparation and polish.

When I built Hobbycraft/Trumpeter’s 1/48 scale F9F-2 Panther, I wanted to finish it in a Korean War sea blue gloss finish.

Surface preparation It’s critically important to prepare the surface carefully before applying glossy camouflage. Gloss acrylics present a twofold challenge. First, gloss finishes, just like

metallics, easily reveal scratches, unfilled seams, sinkholes, and other surface imperfections.

Second, acrylic paints usually need help adhering to plastic — they don’t bite into it the way enamels and lacquers do.

For these reasons, I always prime the model. Primer reveals blemishes, covers disparate materials for a uniform base, and gives the paint something to hold onto.

Before priming, I filled obvious gaps with super glue and putty, sanding the plastic with 1000-grit paper to smooth out any rough patches, 1. I masked the windshield before attaching it.

1 Naked cat: Aaron’s F9F after basic construction but before painting. He masked the windshield before attaching it and filled gaps.

4 To support the thin, clear plastic of the sliding canopy section, Aaron filled it with Silly Putty, then taped it to cardboard to use as a handle.

7

2 Silly Putty makes a great mask for landing gear bays because it conforms well to the space, fills voids, and doesn’t fall out during handling.

5 A marker turned out to be the perfect size to use as a handle during painting. Aaron made sure it was snug so the model wouldn’t slip off.

8

3 Aaron folded tape into the cockpit opening and cut the strips to make a tight mask for the inside of the windshield and front office.

6 Aaron applies Polly S Plastic Prep with a cotton swab to clean the plastic and ensure better paint adhesion.

9

The first painting step, even before priming, was the black for the interior surfaces of the canopy frame.

A sign of things to come: The gloss black paint revealed tiny sanding scratches on the Panther’s nose.

It’s not immediately obvious on the surface, but a finger stroked over the surface revealed one of the hurdles to good painting — sanding dust.

I had painted the wheel wells interior green, so I masked them with Silly Putty, 2. It molds to the wells’ shapes, stays in place during painting, and pulls off without damaging the paint. I masked the cockpit with Tamiya tape stretched across the openings and trimmed to shape, 3. Don’t forget the sliding section of the canopy.

After masking the clear section, I filled the interior with Silly Putty and taped the whole thing to a sheet of cardboard, 4.

To make the model easier to hold, I inserted a handle — in this case a Sharpie — into the exhaust nozzle firmly enough to support the model during painting, 5.

Finally, I removed oil, grease, and dust from the model with Testors (formerly Polly S) Plastic Prep, 6.

one of the other impediments to good paint: sanding dust, 9. Particles left on the surface will be trapped by the paint and result in a rough texture.

Nothing works as well as a tack cloth to remove debris from the surface, 10.

Next came primer; I used gray Tamiya Fine Surface Primer straight from the spray can, 11. The flow rate is high, so I spray it in short passes for good coverage, 12.

Despite similar application, primer is not paint. It is thicker and designed to bond to the surface, improve paint adhesion, and fill minor imperfections.

Primer comes in a variety of colors, but

Primer and more prep The inside of the canopy frames should be black. So, I sprayed them before priming, 7.

This doesn’t need to be neat because the primer will cover the extraneous paint.

The gloss black proved why surface preparation is so important, revealing minute scratches that were invisible on the unpainted plastic, 8. I smoothed the area with a three-grit sanding stick. The black paint also provides a great illustration of

October 2013

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25

10

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12

To remove sanding debris, Aaron lightly passes a tack cloth over the surface. You don’t need to press hard to sweep up dust.

To ensure thorough, uniform coverage, Aaron applies primer in short bursts from a spray can, constantly checking the quality and density.

The goal is an even, velvety smooth surface that provides a good foundation to anchor the color coats.

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Aaron sands a ridge of black paint, a remnant from painting the canopy frame. Don‘t be afraid to sand through the primer — there‘s more where that came from.

Leading edges are easily overlooked during cleanup. Aaron flowed super glue into the seams and sanded it smooth.

Aaron sands the final primer coat to remove any roughness. Texture variances at this point will be exaggerated by subsequent layers.

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Don’t forget the tack cloth to remove sanding debris. Dust trapped under the paint will cause problems later.

Aaron thins LifeColor gloss sea blue. Using an eyedropper makes it easy to add just the right amount.

After mixing Liquitex Flow-Aid with water, Aaron adds a few drops of it to the paint mix. Don’t add a lot, as it can adversely affect the paint.

light gray does a great job of showing gaps and other blemishes that need to be filled, 13. I spent a couple of hours looking over the model, smoothing out rough paint and filling gaps along the fuselage and at the wing roots with super glue. Leading-edge seams are easily overlooked, 14.

I also gave the model a once-over with 1000-grit sandpaper to polish the primer; it usually has a little texture straight from the can, 15.

It seems like a lot of work, but don’t rush this part of the process. Time spent dealing with problems on the front end of a

paint project saves time and heartache later.

I repeated this process a couple of times before I was satisfied that I had prepared the surface for paint, ending each step by wiping it down with a tack cloth to ensure it was clear of anything that would affect the paint to come, 16.

finish is for the paint to level as it dries on the model.

That’s where paint retarder and flow enhancer come in. Flow enhancer, or flow aid, helps paint move better through the airbrush and can minimize tip-drying as well as help leveling; use it in small amounts. Retarder, as the name implies, retards or slows paint drying. Some paint brands sell retarder or flow enhancer specific to the brand, and that’s a good place to start. I used Liquitex Flow-Aid and Golden Acrylic Paint Retarder, both bought from an art store.

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Mixing better acrylic gloss Acrylic paint dries quickly, especially compared to enamels, an advantage that can speed model finishing. Unfortunately, that characteristic works against you when you apply gloss. The best way to get a smooth

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The retarder can be added straight from the bottle. Aaron added a few drops at a time, checking the consistency after mixing each addition.

Aaron started the camouflage layer by spraying paint along deep lines and recesses. This helps prevent the paint from pulling away from the edges and ensures proper coverage without the risk of paint runs.

Holding the brush a few inches above the model, Aaron applies mist coats of sea blue, making the surface more receptive to finishing coats. Let each coat dry for a few minutes.

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Wet coats followed the misted paint. Aaron sprayed the wet coats carefully to avoid adding too much paint at once, resulting in runs.

The model looks wet and shiny after Aaron applies the final layers of sea blue. The paint has a slight orange-peel texture here, but retarder will level the paint as it dries to eliminate many of the wrinkles.

Despite the model being placed under a cover while the paint cured, dust settled into the paint as it dried.

My choice for sea blue gloss was LifeColor, a relatively recent addition to the selection of acrylic model paints. I added LifeColor thinner to the paint first: about 1 part thinner to 3 parts paint, 17.

Next I added a few drops of flow enhancer, 18. This needs to be mixed with water before being added to the paint.

Finally, I added several drops of retarder, 19. It’s counterintuitive, but, though the retarder is thicker in the bottle, it thins the paint as it is mixed. Remember that, because it’s easy to add too much and overthin the paint. You want the consistency to be about that of 2-percent milk, so when a drop runs down the inside of the mixing bottle it leaves a film as it goes.

coat by first spraying paint into nooks and crannies. Using a single-action airbrush with a fairly narrow spray pattern and the pressure at 25 psi, I airbrushed wing roots, around gear bays, and along control surface boundaries — anywhere I wanted to be more sure the paint covered, 20.

Satisfied I had the difficult areas covered, I widened the airbrush nozzle, held the brush 4-5" off the surface, and misted the blue over the model, 21. The first couple of passes should not completely cover the surface; keep the brush moving. Don’t move it too far away, or paint will start to dry on the way to the model, resulting in a gravelly texture. I let the mist layer dry for 10-15 minutes. These semi-dry, tacky mist coats give subsequent layers something to hang onto.

For coverage coats, I widened the nozzle slightly, held the brush slightly closer to the surface, and moved it slightly slower, 22.

Each pass should overlap the previous so the front edge of the spray pattern is always fresh.

Be careful not to stop on the model or

move the brush too slowly; it’s easy to get too much paint on the model, causing runs.

But you do want enough paint for it to level on the model, 23.

Airbrushing shine When painting gloss, you are spraying a relatively high volume of paint. It’s easy to flood the surface, especially when trying to cover corners and recesses. Gloss paint can also pull away from edges and corners and leave thin spots where the primer shows through. To avoid this, I start a gloss paint

Smoothing the paint No matter how much care I take to protect the paint, some bit of schmutz ends up in the finish, 24. The Panther was no exception, and that meant more sanding. A few passes with 1000-grit sandpaper took care of the blemish, 25, but the sanding revealed a little orange peel, 26. Between leveling out the surface and taking care of blemishes, I had to recoat the model a couple of times with sea blue gloss. I gave the final coat a rubdown with 2000- and 3200grit sandpaper to prepare the surface for a coat of clear gloss.

I used LifeColor gloss, mixed with LifeColor thinner and Golden retarder, misting on the first couple of coats, then adding heavy, wet coats, 27. If you spray too much paint too soon, it can bead up on the surface, 28. I really like LifeColor paint, but I’m not sure that I will use the October 2013

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Sometimes light buffing with a cloth will remove dust motes. This stuff proved stubborn enough that Aaron resorted to 1000-grit sandpaper.

The differing sheen revealed by sanding in this image is an indication that the paint wasn’t as smooth as it looked.

Next, Aaron sprayed a sealing layer of clear gloss. It deepens the shine and protects the base coat from the sanding and buffing to come.

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Here’s why it’s a good idea to mist the paint first.

The slightly dry, thin coat gives paint something to bite into. Otherwise, it can bead up.

No matter how good the paint, Aaron prefers to sand and polish for a perfectly smooth sheen.

Starting with 3200-grit paper, the finish goes from shiny to flat to really shiny.

After decals, Aaron seals the finish with Tamiya clear gloss acrylic. It eliminated the visible edge of the decals and protected them against sanding and weathering.

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This photo shows how Aaron overlaps each pass so the front edge of the paint is always wet. This helps blend and level the finish.

Aggh! The clear coat blushed on the wing when Aaron sprayed a little too much clear. He left well-enough alone and the finish cleared as it dried.

More sanding: In the home stretch now, Aaron buffs the Tamiya clear to a high shine with progressively finer sandpaper.

clear gloss again; it had a really strange reaction to the decals when I applied them.

The next day, I rubbed and buffed out the finish with progessively finer grits of sandpaper — 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000 — to polish the surface as much as I possibly could in preparation for decals, 29.

The first grit should remove any orange peel or unevenness and leave the finish looking decidedly muted. Have no fear, the remaining grits will restore the shine.

Sealed with more gloss

one, 31. The clear blushed in a couple spots where I sprayed too much of the clear gloss, 32. The solution? Leave well-enough alone. The finish clears as it dries.

Next? You guessed it: more sanding, 33.

Starting with 1000-grit sandpaper, I worked my way through progressively finer grits, taking care to ensure the model’s finish was as smooth as possible, 34.

The final step was to rub the paint with Novus No. 2 Plastic Polish. I appled a dab with a soft cloth, rubbing it in a circular

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After applying decals, I airbrushed the model with more clear gloss. In light of the problems I had with LifeColor’s paint, I used Tamiya acrylic clear gloss mixed with Tamiya thinner this time. I didn’t use retarder.

I started with mist coats, setting the pattern medium-wide, the pressure at 25 psi, and the brush 4-5" above the surface, 30. I let each coat dry for 10-15 minutes, then sprayed heavier, wet coats, overlapping each

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Reflections are a good measure of polishing progress. Things like lights and words will get sharper as the surface becomes smoother.

Aaron applies Novus No. 2 polish to the Panther’s wing, working it in with a soft cloth in small circles. There’s no need to press hard.

A clean cloth removes the polish and buffs the surface to a high shine.

Aaron finished his F9F-2 by airbrushing the naturalmetal leading edges with Alclad II aluminum, then attaching the landing gear and canopy.

motion over the paint, 35. Then I flipped to a clean piece of the cloth and polished the surface to a smooth shine, 36.

Final steps From here, the build progressed as normal.

I masked and airbrushed the natural-metal leading edges. Then, I installed the landing gear, canopy, and other small details.

The Navy maintained these aircraft pretty well, even during the Korean War, but my F9F is a little too shiny for a combat veteran. I plan to weather to up a little.

In the meantime, I’m going to put it on a shelf so I can reflect on the Panther’s place in air combat history. FSM

SOURCES

REFERENCES

Decals, F9F Panthers over Korea and the Pacific, Blackbird Models (BMD48003), www.blackbirdmodels.co.uk, available from UMM-USA, 847-537-0867, www.umm-usa.com Sea blue gloss paint, LifeColor (UA047), http://www.astromodel.it/lifecolor.html, available from Sprue Brothers, www.spruebrothers.com Flow enhacer, Liquitex Flow-Aid (5620), 888-422-7954, www.liquitex.com Retarder, Golden (5003580), 607-8476154, www.goldenpaints.com

F9F Panther, Detail & Scale Vol.15, Bert Kinzey, Kalmbach, ISBN 978-0-89024169-1 Grumman F9F Panther/Cougar — First Grumman Cat of the Jet Age, Brad Elward, Specialty, ISBN 978-1-58007145-1 F9F Panther Cougar in Action, Jim Sullivan, Squadron/Signal, ISBN 978-089747-127-5

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Reader Gallery

◀ Andrew Bloom HAugHton, louisiAnA

Having read in FSM about finishing aircraft with foil, then seeing it done at his modeling club, Andrew decided to try it on a MiG-15 from Monogram’s 1/48 scale Air Combat Series. “I painted the model first, then applied Microscale Micro Metal Foil Adhesive and put on the foil,” he says. “Using a wooden cuticle stick and eyemakeup applicators, I burnished the foil, then trimmed each panel. Next, I used 0000 steel wool to ‘age’ the foil and blend seams.” He sprayed the model with Pledge Future floor polish before applying decals, then did some fancy photo editing to put his MiG in flight.

▶ Kevin ng mArKHAm, ontArio, CAnAdA

Kevin painted Trumpeter’s 1/35 scale KV-1 with Vallejo Russian green and weathered it with enamel washes and pigments.

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FineScale Modeler

October 2013

AllAn Bone o’FAllon, Missouri

Installing Fujimi’s wood deck on its 1/350 scale Japanese battleship Kongo, Allan left the self-adhesive backing on and applied super glue instead. He also used Fujimi photoetched-metal details made for the kit, and more for the railing. The rigging is .006" and .010" fly-fishing line.

Billy Wilt DAllAs, texAs

Billy built Revell’s 1/48 scale A-6 Intruder for the USS Lexington museum, depicting the plane as a member of VA-52 Knightriders. He finished with Tamiya acrylics, Testors Model Master Acryl, Gunze Sangyo Mr. Color lacquer, and a coat of Testors Model Master clear flat.

October 2013

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31

Reader Gallery

scott tyner WhItehouse, texas

Scott surrounded Trumpeter’s 1/35 scale CH-47D Chinook with Trumpeter, Mig, and Airborne figures to show a pinnacle landing in Afghanistan. He scratchbuilt the base as well as the Chinook’s interior, which has more than a pound of Milliput for quilting. A steel framework supports the house and the helicopter. ◀ DavIDe MaccagnI salerano sul laMbro, loDI, Italy

Davide dressed Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale F-104G in Tauro decals and stencils, “many, many stencils,” he says. “I have liked the F-104 very much since I saw it in the sky when I was a little boy spending my holidays near an Italian air force base by the sea.”

▶ Fausto Muto salerno, Italy

The French main battle tank AMX-56 Leclerc was named for Gen. Philippe Leclerc de Hauteclocque, commander of the Free French 2e Division Blindeé in World War II. Fausto built Revell’s 1/72 scale model.

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matti Sallamaa helSiNki, FiNlaNd

Matti writes: “I have primarily built fighter planes, but when I saw Revell’s new (1/24 scale) London Bus on the shelf of the local model shop I simply had to buy it.

London is my favorite city, and the red double-decker is indisputably an icon.” Matti used red from a Tamiya spray can but otherwise hand- and airbrushed Humbrol enamels. Bare-Metal Foil provides sparkle upfront, while the yellow “cheat line” is a painted decal. Matti spent four months on the project and thanks his wife for her patience. ▶ Scott NewlaNdS

RockhamptoN, QueeNSlaNd, auStRalia

Although today’s snowmobile is credited to Carl Eliason of Sayner, Wis., who built a “motor toboggan” in the 1920s, in 1917 Virgil D. White, a Ford dealer in Ossippee, N.H., patented an attachment to convert a Ford Model T to a “snowmobile.” Scott saw one on TV and converted an AMT 1/24 scale model.

He built the idler axle and springs with kit parts and strip styrene; an old ship kit contributed wood strips for skis. The snow is clay covered with adhesive spray and baking soda.

SEND US YOUR PICTURES! Shouldn’t your model be in Reader Gallery? FineScale Modeler is always accepting new material from around the world.

Upload high-resolution digital images (preferably unedited, RAW format) with complete captions at www.Contribute.Kalmbach.com, or send prints or CD-ROMs to FineScale Modeler, Reader Gallery, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612.

Be sure to tell us the kit manufacturer, model, scale, modifications, paint and finishes used, and reason for choosing the model, along with your name and address. We look forward to seeing your work!

October 2013

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Reader Gallery

RiccaRdo MeRloni PesaRo, italy

“I like DAK panzers,” Riccardo says of his Deutsches Afrikakorps PzKpfw III Ausf L, Tunisia, 1943. The 1/35 scale kit and paints were from Tamiya.

▶ Mike Walston BRadenton, FloRida

“Starbase K-7” is what Mike named his “retro-style domed city.” He says, “When Round 2 reissued the AMT ‘Star Trek’ K-7 Space Station, I decided to give it an upgrade.” He added LEDs and replaced the kit’s central tower with styrene tubing to connect the old part of the station to the new city.

The multi-tiered town has two ring platforms custom-cut from 1⁄16" styrene stock; buildings are from his spares box. “There are several buildings from an old ‘Space: 1999’ Alpha Moonbase, ‘Star Wars’ Millennium Falcon landing-gear pads, and a lot of stuff I’ve got no clue where it came from,” he says.

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JosE dArdon GuAtEMAlA city, GuAtEMAlA

Converting Zvezda’s 1/72 scale Ka-27 to a Ka-28, an anti-submarine export, Jose scratchbuilt rotor details and windshield wipers and reinforced rotor axes and landing gear with brass tubing. He used Begemot decals to mark it for the Indian navy. He says, “I liked the weirdness of the Kamov design, a tough fourlegged flying bug.”

▶ Anis ElbEid PAris, FrAncE

“Hard-fitting but good shapes!” was Anis’ opinion of Monogram’s 1/48 scale P-51D. Anis removed panel lines and rivets to correct them with rescribing, cut tail surfaces, and replaced flaps as well as the spinner. The Mustang is painted with Alclad II, then post-shaded and weathered with Tamiya acrylics. Anis used an AMD decal sheet to model Ferocious Freddie of the 361st FS, England, 1944.

◀ sEAn HAdFiEld

MAdison, Wisconsin

Sean converted Lindberg’s 1/32 scale 1915 Ford Model Coupelet to a British World War I desert patrol car. Besides rigging it for right-hand drive, he scratchbuilt the rear body and spares bracket; made a water tank from styrene rod; used sprue for a Lewis machine gun (with an ammo drum sanded down from an HO train wheel); and cut boxes from balsa blocks, detailing them with styrene. “The basic engine and tire valves are original,” he says, “but the kit was warped and needed a little attention. Still, it was a fun build.”

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35

China’s Shenyang Jian-8 was a fighter decades in the making, changing dramatically in the years between its design in 1964, production start in 1979, and subsequent updates. With an eye for detail, Tom took Trumpeter’s kit forward through the years to a J-8H.

1/72 Scale | Conversion

Improving and updating a

J-8 “Finback” Scratchbuilt details help bring a Chinese fighter forward •

T

he initial design of the Shenyang Jian-8 ( J-8, NATO reporting name “Finback”) dates to 1964, when China created a super-sized MiG-21 with two engines.

But production didn’t begin until December 1979. Following a limited number of early variants was the J-8-2, with MiG-23-style lateral intakes and radar nose. The 1990s brought upgrades such as air-to-air refueling and new electronics.

Given the J-8’s relative obscurity, Trumpeter’s kit came as a surprise. It represents an early J-8-2, lacking the various electronic bumps and more-modern missiles of the later planes. I decided to convert mine to a contemporary J-8H while improving the cockpit and gear-bay detail.

Exhaust detail After scraping and sanding the ribbed detail from the interior of the exhaust noz36

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zles, I used the kit pieces as the outer rings and made nozzles from 3⁄8" Evergreen styrene tubing. Sanding and filing the outside edge thinned the wall and shaped the exhaust cone. I cut .005" styrene sheet into 3mm for the inside petals of the nozzle, while .010" x .020" styrene strip was the material for the outer petal actuators.

Deeper in the exhaust, I wrapped K&S .002" corrugated aluminum sheet inside the 3⁄8" tube, producing parts that were more accurate than the kit, 1.

I made concentric rings inside the fairing with thin strips of Scotch Magic Tape, 2. (These rings look like heat sinks and show clearly in reference photos.)

I painted the whole assembly prior to installation, mixing several drops of Tamiya flat black into Tamiya chrome for the base coat. Then I masked and sprayed areas with a light dusting of flat black mixed with flat brown to look like burnt metal. Inside the

By Tom Berres

exhaust, I sprayed the aluminum with a custom-mixed off white. Finally, I applied a liberal wash of heavily thinned Polly Scale oily black followed by black and brown powdered pastel chalks.

Cockpit detail Consulting photos, I scratchbuilt several items to bolster the sparse cockpit.

Extending and boxing in the tub, I installed a rear bulkhead of .010" styrene sheet; it’s glued to the fuselage, eliminating the need to fill and sand that seam. After the glue had set, I trimmed away excess styrene and shaped it so the bulkhead followed the fuselage shape.

I added pistons for canopy actuators inside the cockpit, 3, along with wall details that I cobbled from bits of .005" and .010" styrene sheet, including controls that I punched out with a Waldron punch-anddie set. I also used scraps of photoetched

Gizmos

Doodads Corrugated aluminum

Styrene stock

1

Aft bulkhead

2

K&S corrugated aluminum sheet, along with styrene tube and strip, provided exhaust-nozzle details.

Aft bulkhead

4

Centering line

3

Tom painted and weathered the exhaust nozzles separately. After joining the fuselage, he masked them off until the end of the build.

Layered instrument panel

After boxing in the cockpit with a sheet-styrene rear bulkhead, Tom installed canopy actuators made from styrene rod and hypodermic tubing.

Other gizmos and doodads are made from wire and scraps of photoetched metal.

Molded interior detail removed

Lead weights

Tom punched out an instrument panel to match the kit’s dials, then put clear styrene between the two parts to replicate lenses. Upfront, lead weights will keep this bird on its toes.

metal, copper wire, solder, and styrene rod for additional details such as the rudder pedals and oxygen manifold.

I punched openings for the instrumentpanel dials out of sheet styrene; the dials are a combination of paint and decals. I masked a thin white stripe down the middle of the new panel (a visual aid to center the control stick), then sprayed the face black. Sandwiching clear styrene between the new face and the kit instrument panel replicated lenses, 4.

I took this opportunity to weight the nose with lead. Then I hand-painted the rest of the cockpit with a custom-mixed teal for the interior, picking out particulars with a fine brush.

Canopy actuators

5

Bay detail

6

With the cockpit complete, Tom removed molded detail in the main-gear bay to make way for improved details.

Milliput fills the wing fairing before Tom installs styrene-strip stringers and formers between the fore and aft bay walls to come.

Meet Tom Berres Tom’s firsT model was a discount 1/48 scale Monogram Skytrain that had no clear parts. After a short hiatus to enlist in the U.S. Navy and attend the Naval Academy, he returned to modeling during his 11 years of active duty. Now just shy of 40 and an engineer for a refinery near New Orleans, he enjoys detailing modern 1/72 scale kits and shares the hobby with his two sons, Sean, 9, and Travis, 7.

Fortunately, Tom says, his wife, Brenda, grants his modeling solitude as well as storage space for his scores of unbuilt kits. In addition to the indoor hobby, the family also finds time to hike and travel.

Gear bays Excellent photo references revealed inaccuracies in the kit’s gear bays. Using a motor tool, I ground away the main bay walls, 5. I also removed some plastic from the airbrake bay behind the main gear since I planned on closed air brakes. I filled the area with Milliput to create a smooth fuse-

lage interior, paying special attention to eliminate the interior step of the wing fairings. Strip styrene represents stringers and formers, 6.

Next came the nose-gear bay. Somehow, I needed to squeeze this subassembly under the finished cockpit, 7. I created the main

box with .010" sheet, adding details with 1mm x 2mm and 1mm x 3mm styrene strips, thin copper wire, and styrene rod, with narrow strips of masking tape (less than .5mm wide) as tie-downs. I tacked down the tape, applied a drop of thin super glue, then a touch of accelerator to fix the October 2013

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Masking-tape ribs

Gear bay

7

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It was a tight spot, but Tom built a nose-gear bay to fit under the cockpit. The details are styrene stock with copper-wire plumbing.

Engine housing

9

In the main gear bay, the fuselage walls are interior green; these other interior surfaces are zinc chromate yellow; and the engine housing is aircraft gray. Ribs on the part at right are strips of masking tape. An oily black wash enhanced depth and details.

The nose-gear bay is zinc chromate yellow with interior green ribs and plumbing of copper wire and solder. Styrene strips connect the gear actuator to the gear doors; the silver crescent in the center is made with styrene strips.

Main-gear bay

Nose-gear bay Intake trunk Bay walls

Bay walls

Main-gear bay

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With the bay interiors built, Tom painted their fuselage sides interior green.

Tom smoothed Milliput into the shape of intake trunks and (later) painted them gloss white.

Cooling holes

Putty

Added doors

Lightening holes

Styrene detail

Gear pivot

Added doors

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Carefully following references, Tom measured and marked cooling holes in the fuselage and drilled them with a pin vise. Sheet styrene on the other side prevents an interior view from the outside through the holes.

Tom scraped off molded interior detail, smoothed those areas with putty, and installed details made from .010" styrene. He drilled lightening holes in the bay walls and made gear pivots from 1â „16" copper tube.

He cut missing main-gear doors from .010" styrene sheet and detailed the nose-gear doors with styrene strip.

tie-downs in place. More styrene strip replicated ribs and formers.

In the main-gear bay, I glued styrene tubes to .010" half-discs to represent the engine enclosure; the half-discs also formed the walls of the gear bay, 8. I notched the tubes to accept .010" walls and structure at the bottom for the gear opening, and again detailed with styrene strip. Narrow strips of masking tape replicate engine detail; I

plumbed the bays with several gauges of copper wire, solder, and fitted more masking-tape tie-downs.

References show gear bays in various colors (different subcontractors?) — zinc chromate yellow, interior green, and aircraft gray, 9. I mixed and painted the yellow first, then masked for green and colored the engine housings gray, 10. I carefully brushpainted details with silver, black, blue, and

red Polly Scale and Testors acrylics, airbrushed everything with Pledge Future floor polish, then applied a very thin wash of Polly Scale oily black.

Before buttoning up the fuselage, I added intake trunks, 11, blending edges with Milliput that I smoothed with a wet pinky finger, removing excess material with a knife and toothpick. Then I painted the intake trunks gloss white.

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White Cooling glue intake

Tape Brass rod

Widened fork

White glue

ESM antennas

Brass tube

Equipage wheel

Lots of putty

Refueling fairing

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Tom widened the nose-gear yoke to accept a new and better wheel. Telescoping pieces of brass tube and rod form a new strut; masking tape and styrene bits provide further details.

The complex retraction mechanism and oleo scissors are stretched sprue and styrene rod.

The forward fuselage got a good going over with details that reflect an updated J-8H. Tom used drops of white glue for some of the antennas.

Air-to-air refueling probe

Stretched sprue

ESM IFF

Hypodermic needle

18

IFF “Odd Rods”

Copper wire represents “Odd Rods” IFF gear; Tom installed longer segments of wire and trimmed them later. The fuel probe is brass rod bent to shape.

Finally, I drilled engine cooling holes in the lower fuselage, 12; styrene backing prevents seeing through them. I test-fitted the fuselage halves, then glued them together.

Edges of the various interior additions needed sanding and scraping for a good fit.

Wing assembly Like the gear bays, detail in the kit’s wings fell short. I scraped away all the molded features, filled imperfections with Squadron green putty, then wet-sanded with 320- and 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper, 13. I traced the wing-bay side walls onto .010" styrene.

The side walls feature prominent lightening holes; I drilled these into the traced styrene prior to cutting them out. I boxed in the wing bays with more styrene and test-fit the upper and lower wing halves, sanding the tops of the bay walls until they fit. At the gear pivots, I added 1⁄16"copper tube, (with lots of super glue for strength). Again, strip styrene, copper wire, solder, and narrow masking-tape strips provided additional detail in the bays. Once the bays were complete, I joined the wings and glued them to the fuselage.

Landing gear The kit landing gear and covers were overly simple-looking. I thinned the edges of the

19 The finished nose has guns and pitot tubes made from hypodermic needles.

Stretched sprue painted silver represents the gear-door actuator. Note the trimmed and painted IFF antennas.

kit’s doors and detailed the nose-gear covers with styrene strip, 14.

I removed the nose wheel from the yoke, then spread the yoke with styrene spacers and super glued it back together. I removed the yoke from the oleo and telescoped a brass rod into a piece of 1⁄8" brass tube that I detailed with bits of styrene and masking tape, 15. The replacement nose wheel came from an Equipage set intended for a MiG31; I drilled its hub to accept a new axle.

Similarly, I created new main gear with telescoping brass tube and rod, 16. The main gear includes a complex mechanism for retracting the doors; the oleo scissors are also unique, and poorly represented by the kit. Again, I detailed the scratchbuilt gear with styrene, masking tape, and copper wire. For the retraction mechanism and scissors, I used styrene rod and stretched sprue of various diameters. The Equipage MiG-31 wheels are the right size and have excellent tread detail.

Fuselage details The lower fuselage fit poorly, resulting in a dip at the joint where the ventral pylon would fit. I used Milliput and a generous layer of Squadron green putty to level it out.

To model a J-8H, several changes and

additions had to be made to the forward fuselage, 17. I sanded .080" styrene strip to shape a refueling-probe fairing. I fashioned a cooling intake on the lower starboard side using .010" and .005" styrene sheet, sanding it to shape, and used other styrene stock for several ESM (electronic support measures) antennas.

The extended refueling tube is 1⁄16" brass rod bent to shape, plus a tip from the spares box, 18. For the ESM antennas upfront, I glued .020" rod to .020" x .020" strip and sanded it to shape. The IFF antennas (identification, friend or foe; also called “Odd Rods” by NATO) are copper wire glued into drilled holes. I intentionally left the wires long for easier alignment; once the glue dried, I trimmed them to length with a toenail clipper and painted them Polly Scale flat red.

The guns and pitot tubes upfront are made from hypodermic needles, 19.

Stretched sprue, painted silver, serves as a gear-door actuator.

Painting and final detailing I painted with a custom mix of Tamiya flat white and several drops of flat light gray, blending different shades for a patchwork appearance, 20. A very light shade provided highlights within panels, while a October 2013

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Dielectric panels

Airflow

20

21

Tom airbrushed green dielectric panels on the tail’s leading edge. Using a paintbrush, he pulled subtle dark streaks in the direction of airflow.

Weapons from the kit and from a Hasegawa set were teamed for the firepower Tom wanted on his Finback.

Post-shading, highlighting, and sludge wash

Refueling probe (brass rod)

ESM antenna (styrene)

Superdetailed cockpit

Added sway braces (styrene)

IFF (copper wire)

Refueling fairing (shaped styrene)

darkened mix post-shaded panel lines and provided dark streaks in the direction of airflow. I also airbrushed the green dielectric panels on the vertical tail.

Several coats of Pledge Future floor polish sealed the paint and smoothed the way for decals. I used kit decals with some spares from my vast stock. Another coat of Future sealed the decals. I applied a sludge wash of tempera black and brown, removing the dried wash with a damp cotton T-shirt, then over-coated the model with Testors Acryl flat clear. I masked and sprayed the black radome with Testors Acryl semigloss.

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Post-shaded panel lines, highlighted panels, and light weathering varied the surfaces for a patchwork appearance. To further emphasize panel lines and recesses, Tom applied a sludge wash of tempera black and brown, let it dry, then removed most of it with a damp cotton T-shirt. A topcoat of Testors Acryl flat clear finished the Finback.

I got the weapons from both the kit (for the PL-8 copy of Israel’s Python-3) and a Hasegawa weapon set (for the PL-11 Chinese adaptation of the Sparrow/Aspide) and modified the pylons and launchers to match this aircraft, 21. Navigation lights are depicted by Kristal Klear painted with Tamiya clear red and clear green. Finally, freshly glued and painted areas received a quick spray of Acryl flat to eliminate shiny spots and blend them in.

I really enjoyed building this Finback.

Instead of delving deep into the aftermarket, I relied on basic scratchbuilding to create a unique model of this fighter. FSM

REFERENCES

Chinese Aircraft: China’s aviation industry since 1951, by Yefim Gordon and Dmitriy Komissarov, Hikoki, ISBN 978-1-902109-04-6 “The Dragon’s Wings,” Combat Aircraft Monthly, Vol. 11, No. 6, June 2010, by Andreas Rupprecht, Ian Allan, ISSN 2014-7470 Chinese Air Power: Current Organisation and Aircraft of All Chinese Air Forces, by Yefim Gordon, Midland, ISBN 978-1-85780-321-1

1/350 Scale | Detailing After waiting years to model HMS Dreadnought, Don wanted to do more than build a kit out of the box. With aftermarket parts, this battleship is unique in its detail and display.

Detailing HMS DreaDnought Aftermarket parts make a good model spectacular • By Don Stauffer

W

hen HMS Dreadnought entered service in 1906 it caused a revolution, forever closing the door on the age of wooden-hulled warships. The first allbig-gun battleship, carrying 10 12" guns in five turrets and 27 12-pounder rapid-fire guns for protection against torpedo boats, Dreadnought’s name became synonymous with 20th-century battleships.

Always wanting to build a model of this singular warship, I bought Zvezda’s 1/350 scale offering (No. 9039) as soon as it was available. Not long after, Pontos released an upgrade set of photoetched-metal, resin, and turned-brass parts, in addition to wooden decks (No. 35002F1).

While not necessary, detail sets that include ladders and railing can add remark42

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ably to a ship’s appearance — I used only the parts from the Pontos set not included in the Zvezda kit, and the wooden decks, which beat trying to paint a realistic wood finish.

The hull I began with the hull. Dreadnought had metal covers over its portholes when preparing for or engaged in action. Because I intended to depict the ship moored in friendly waters, I didn’t want the covers in place. So, I opened up the portholes with a No. 61 bit chucked in a pin vise, 1.

The hull is split into halves along the keel, but Zvezda includes three bulkheads to maintain its shape. I glued the bulkheads into one side of the hull. After applying a few drops of super glue to the bow and

stern, I aligned the hull halves and clamped them together. I ran liquid plastic cement into the join along the keel inside the hull and, while it dried, rested the assembly upside down on my workbench to keep the ship square, 2.

Once the glue cured, I widened the holes for the pedestal mounts in the hull to accommodate the acrylic rods I intended to use instead. Doing this now reduced the chances of marring the painted hull later.

Because the bilge keels, rudders, and most of the propeller shafts are painted antifouling red, I added them to the hull, 3.

For most of the paint above the waterline, and parts on the photoetched-metal fret, I used Testors Model Master light ghost gray; I applied a 3:1 mix of dark gull gray and dark sea gray to the steel decks.

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Don drills out the portholes before joining the hull halves. “I find it adds a lot of character,” he says, adding that his Dreadnought is moored in friendly waters — no need for porthole covers.

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Don attached the rudders and most of the propeller shaft assemblies before painting the hull.

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Using an inkjet printer and decal paper, Don printed his own boot striping.

“Careful masking and painting will also do,” he says.

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While Zvezda’s instructions called for brass paint on the propellers, Don painted them bronze to better represent their true appearance.

British crimson fit the bill for the antifouling paint below the waterline.

I began painting with a base coat of Krylon gray primer, sanded it lightly, and airbrushed two coats of ghost gray.

Once the last coat of ghost gray was dry, I masked off the upper hull and applied the antifouling red to the bottom.

While my sources disagreed concerning a black boot stripe, I think it lends something to the ship. I decided to add one. But,

Bulkheads made clamping the hull easier. Don rested the model upside down on his workbench to ensure everything dried straight.

The Pontos set includes an accurately cut wood deck that requires careful placement.

rather than paint it, I made 10" long stripes on my computer and printed them out on decal paper, 4.

Dreadnought’s propellers were cast in bronze. To simulate this, I painted the props with Testors copper and airbrushed them with a nearly transparent coat of gloss brown before mounting them on the ship, 5.

Note: Bronze doesn’t take on the same sort of green patina underwater that you

see on statues exposed to rain, but remains reasonably true to its natural color.

Now that the hull was painted, I filled the portholes with Microscale Micro Kristal Klear and glued the collars to hold the pedestal mounts in place.

The main deck The wooden deck included with the Pontos detail set is very fragile, and the contact cement on its underside is very aggressive. I October 2013

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8

7 The gun barrels needed filing for the trunnions to fit.

With a detail set of this complexity, it is always difficult to decide which bits to put on first. “I do a lot of planning to determine which photoetchedmetal parts I will add while I build and which I’ll put on later,” Don says.

Styrene shim

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9 A test-fit of the bridge showed it was not level. Don made a thin styrene shim to fix the problem.

Don detailed one of the ship’s boats before adding the main derrick boom and its rigging, fearing it would be hard to place the boat later.

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He rigged the funnel stays by running the line through a hole in the smokestack, draping it over the edge, and weighting it with a clothespin. A little super glue did the rest.

A styrene jig helped Don make identical boat tackles out of thin wire.

popped out all of the rectangles to accomodate the ship’s molded features before I peeled off the backing and took great care in applying it to the ship’s plastic deck before fitting the deck to the hull.

Then I attached all of the photoetchedmetal hatches, drains, and skylights while their positions were still easily accessible. I replaced the kit’s aft control-station ladder with the metal one in the Pontos set.

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With the details glued on, I mounted the deck to the hull, using slower-drying plastic cement along the deck’s edges and quicker-drying super glue along the tops of the bulkheads, 6.

The hull was just a smidge wide a few inches aft of the bow. Gentle pressure with a small clamp fixed this problem, along with another clamp to hold the deck down at the stern.

The turrets In between painting sessions for the hull, I worked on the ship’s turrets. The Pontos set provides brass barrels. I cleaned them up with a needle file, 7.

After assembling all five main turrets, I painted them. However, I left off the photoetched-metal turret decks and painted them separately. I added them to the turrets once all of the painting was complete to

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“The wire tackle looks much better than the styrene rods provided in the kit,” Don says.

After removing an extraneous support from the kit’s davits, Don used tan thread to lash the boats to the ship’s sides.

avoid damaging or knocking them off during handling.

I painted the top decks with my steel deck color and installed all of the photoetched-metal ladders and railings.

The Pontos set supplies brass barrels for the 26 quick-fire anti-torpedo-boat guns — two for each turret and various other places.

However, the kit’s guns were so nice, and the installation of the brass replacements so involved, that I left well-enough alone.

16 Don made a jig to help replicate the pulleys used for the signal halyards.

The bridge and superstructure Assembling the bridge became an exciting combination of Zvezda’s instructions and those of the Pontos detail set. I had to make sure that I replaced the appropriate kit parts with the correct detail parts while installing all of the rails at the same time, 8.

After trimming part of the detail set’s photoetched-metal mounting structure, I finished it off and checked for level. The rear mount was a tad low. I glued a bit of thin styrene strip to the mount, and that leveled things out nicely, 9.

I opted to use the kit’s parts for the main-mast tripod, rather than the parts from the Pontos set. Because it would be difficult to work on this area after adding too much detail to the superstructure, I decided to place the main derrick boom and rigging before going any further. I installed the boat, and, as the rigging piece in the Pontos set had the boom positioned low, I stowed it starboard of the second funnel, 10.

I painted the photoetched-metal rigging lines a tan that closely matched the thread I used on the running rigging. The pulleys and fixtures are painted light ghost gray.

In John Roberts’ Anatomy of the Ship: The Battleship HMS Dreadnought (Conway Maritime Press, ISBN 978-0-851-778952), I discovered that both smokestacks were fitted with funnel stays. I drilled four holes on both sides near the top of the main fun-

Brass wire

Topsail yard

Mainmast Fore topmast

15 The topsail yard had to be soldered to the foremast before painting.

nel with a No. 70 bit. After attaching 10" lengths of monofilament line to the appropriate positions on-deck, I ran the free ends through the holes in the funnel and weighted them with a clothespin. A dab of super glue fastened the stays, 11.

Ships boats The boats aft of the superstructure are supposed to be mounted on rods that represent davit rigging. These were insufficient in my opinion, so I made rigging tackle from fine copper wire.

With styrene sheet, I fashioned an oval jig about 3⁄16" long and 1⁄32" wide and twisted

a length of wire around it so I had about 1⁄16" tail on the end to work with, 12.

I made four tackles and glued the tails into the holes in the boats where the plastic rods were supposed to go, then looped the top of the oval over the supports jutting from the boat deck, 13.

The davits to either side of the main funnel had extra plastic that was supposed to represent rigging. I removed this extraneous material and super glued the boat to the davits.

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Foreyard

Pulleys

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Six pulleys are attached to the foreyard and four to the topsail yard.

Halyards run doubled through the pulleys add a lot to the look of the foremast rigging.

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The running rigging terminates at the boat deck behind the bridge. Also, Don added the ship’s finished turrets.

After many failed attempts at a more complicated antenna, Don built a jig to help him make a simpler, but still challenging, three-element array.

glue. I ran one end of the line beneath the boat’s bow and tied it to the davit; the remaining loose end I slipped along the boat’s side and tied it to the davit beneath the boat’s stern. I repeated the process with the second davit and trimmed up the line, which left me a tidily lashed boat, 14.

The masts I glued together the fore and main masts as per Pontos’ instructions, but the holes on the foremast’s fitting wouldn’t accommodate the topsail yard. So, I discarded the fitting and attached the yard to the mast with fine brass wire. Then I soldered the yard in place, 15.

I base coated both masts with Krylon primer in a spray can and finished them with a coat of light ghost gray.

Rigging The halyards that make up the foremast’s running rigging pass through pulleys on the foreyard and topsail yard. The Pontos detail set doesn’t include these, so I made my own 46

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from very fine copper wire salvaged from an old TV transformer. Using a homemade jig, I made a figure eight with the wire, leaving about 1" at the ends, 16.

One loop of the figure eight hangs below the yard, while the other is slipped over the yard, tightened down, super glued, and hidden by gray paint, 17.

Dreadnought’s stout tripod masts meant only the topmasts and yards required standing rigging. Because the standing rigging on the real ship was steel cable, I used light gray thread on my model. As I ran the rigging, I weighted the lines with miniclothespins to keep them taut, 18.

I used tan thread for the running rigging, which consisted of the signal halyards from the boat deck through the pulleys on the yardarms or to the foremast top, 19.

There are five antenna structures on Dreadnought. And while the Pontos set provided parts replicating a complicated nine-element array, I could not manage to get the same tension between the wire supports.

So, I went to Plan B, which meant building a less complicated but still accurate array with three elements. I made a jig, 20, using lengths of .020" brass wire for the support at each end.

Two arrays run forward from the foremast topgallant yard to the forecastle.

Another two run aft to the topsail yard on the main mast, 21. The final antenna goes from the forecastle to the topmast at the topsail yard.

The final touches I waited until most of the rigging was finished before installing the main deck and forecastle railings; I didn’t want to keep damaging them. However, the last major challenge remained: the torpedo nets.

In anticipation of the final push, I attached the ship to its finished base, rather than waiting until it was finished with all of the fragile parts hanging off, ready for a clumsy hand.

The net davits come in two parts and are easy to knock off — happened to me a

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The two aft antenna arrays run from the foremast topgallant yard to the mainmast topsail yard. The fifth antenna array runs to the fore topmast from a wire eyelet Don made and installed in the bow.

Don uses a heat gun with low heat to tighten the monofilament rigging on the torpedo nets.

Don made the British ensign on his computer. He used a length of clear monofilament for the jack staff’s halyard.

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half-dozen times. I decided to rig the torpedo nets deployed.

Working bow to stern, I found that the nets are not symmetrical. Sometimes I had to turn them around to match them with the boom ends. Most booms needed to be bent slightly to match with the holes in the nets. Excellent lighting and magnifying glasses were a must!

I used monofilament thread for the boom rigging. After gluing the rigging in place, I used a Marvy-Uchida embossing heat tool (No. 2500) to gently heat the monofilament line and get just the right tension, 22.

Lastly, I made a mooring buoy on the end of a acrylic rod, attached it to the base, and ran a chain from the buoy to the model

through one of the ship’s hawsepipes. The display shows the ship in a way you wouldn’t normally be able to see it, 23.

HMS Dreadnought is the queen of my warship collection. It’s the result of a stateof-the-art kit and fine aftermarket details.

As more World War I ships hit the market, perhaps the lean times for early 20th-century battleship modelers are done! FSM October 2013

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1/72 Scale | Finishing

Finishing a tiny

Sturmtiger This little model is long on detail

BY KARL LOGAN

Trumpeter’s 1/72 scale Sturmtiger is a tiny model of a heavy weapon — but Karl is still big on innovative finishing techniques to put the World War II German assault weapon in its moment.

T

he Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38cm RW61 — also known as Tiger-Mörser and Sturmtiger — was a formidable German World War II self-propelled assault vehicle built on the Tiger tank chassis. Designed for urban warfare, it was able to knock down buildings with a single shot from its RW61 L/5.4 Raketen-Werfer, an adapted Kriegsmarine depth-charge launcher that fired a rocket-assisted 38cm mortar round. The distinctive vents around the gun tube expelled propellant gases.

Construction Trumpeter’s 1/72 scale “early” Sturmtiger (kit No. 07274) is really a model of the prototype. The kit provides rubber road wheels, soft-steel superstructure, Feifel air cleaners, and other details of the early vehicle.

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than a prototype on a test field. Though the original vehicle did not have it, I took artistic license to apply Zimmerit (anti-magnetic paste) to the hull. This may ruffle some feathers, but, for me, art comes before strict accuracy. Given all the field fits, oneoffs, and various paint schemes of WWII German armor, plausibility applies.

The easiest way to model Zimmerit in 1/72 scale is to scribe it. I use a pencil, an emery board, and a hobby knife: I draw vertical lines, then use the emery board as a straightedge to guide the knife, 1. The board’s grit helps it stay put against the plastic. Molded-on tools are easy to get around; just scribe right up to them, 2.

After the vertical scribing, cut the horizontal lines. Don’t worry about being perfect; a reasonable representation is all you need in this small scale, 3.

The rest of the model built up quickly.

Then, it was time to address some of the trickier details. First came the mufflers, molded as simple blobs. I cut off the tops and drilled tiny holes to accept six snippets of .009" guitar string (light-gauge 1st, or E), 4. I thinned the muffler tops on an emery board, then mounted them on the wiry ends, 5. Much better! I thinned the exhaust shrouds with a motor tool, inflicted “shrapnel damage” with a heated sewing needle, and mounted the exhaust.

I closed a gap under the rear escape hatch with .010" styrene strip, 6, and shaved off molded handles to replace them with wire (more to scale). I used a styreneblock periscope and scraps of photoetched brass to fashion a periscope guard.

The driver’s vision port and aiming apertures needed work. I cleaned flash from

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In 1/72 scale, Karl achieves the ridged effect of Zimmerit simply by scribing the plastic.

Mufflers

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Stop scribing short of molded-on features that would not have been covered with Zimmerit.

If it looks like ridges it’s Zimmerit — a field application that need not be precise or uniform.

Gap to fill

Micro bit

Drilled holes Mufflers Muffler caps E string

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Drilled holes accept .009" guitar-string snippets that raise the caps on mufflers.

The muffler caps are a little detail, but in a prominent spot on the hull rear they’ll be noticed.

Photoetchedmetal handle

Styrene hooks Vision port

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6 Nature of the kit: Karl used .010" styrene scrap to close a gap at the rear of the superstructure.

Stretched sprue

Drilled vents

Lead foil

Damaged fenders

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Karl detailed the driver’s vision port and bent styrene rod to form hooks for the hull sides. He dinged fenders with a needle and tweezers.

Ammunition-crane details are photoetched metal and stretched sprue. A loop of lead foil serves as a sling for 38cm shells.

Trumpeter’s gun tube lacked the Sturmtiger's distinctive exhaust vents around the rim; Karl drilled them out himself.

the sighting aperture, laid styrene strip in the driver’s portal, then bisected it with another small strip, 7.

I reasoned the hull might have more hooks for operations, so I formed some with styrene rod. After thinning the fenders with a motor tool, I added battle damage with a hot needle and bent the thin plastic with tweezers to depict more dents.

The handle on the crane was unacceptably thick; I replaced it with a scrap of photoetched brass, 8. Stretched sprue between the pulleys simulated the missing cable. I wrapped lead foil around a dental-pick handle to make the circular ammo cradle and super glued it to the end of the crane.

“Needling” some damage on the mantlet, I noticed the exhaust vents surrounding the gun tube were conspicuously absent.

The prototype had 20 holes; others had

more. I didn’t count: I just drilled around the circumference until it looked right, 9.

The tracks confounded me. I checked the Internet, tried super glue, three different brands of liquid styrene glue (Tamiya, Tenax R7, and Testors), even “old school” Testors tube glue — but they still pulled apart. I finally settled on quick-cure epoxy — hardly ideal, as it left a large bump at the joint. I wish I had sewn them together.

yellow, 11. I let the brown base show on the edges and panel lines, and even went back with more brown to deepen delineations, because light collects in the center of panels and flat surfaces but gradually falls off the edges of a shape. This is actually in the opposite order of dry-brushing, which highlights edges with a lighter color.

Next, I lightened the dark yellow with about 70 percent white and worked carefully inside the panels, now defined by their brown edges, 12. I concentrated on the inside of patches, layering the finish from the edge: brown on the edge, dark yellow next, and graduating to the highlight coat at the innermost of each patch of color. I didn’t opaquely coat a fixed percentage of each tone. Don’t be afraid to linger in some areas and use a little less in others. Varied tone is the ideal outcome.

Painting begins I applied a dark brown — Tamiya brown tinted with black — as a pre-shading base coat, 10. This is important in small-scale modeling, because light will not act the same as on a larger model; you have to paint shadows. I use this “scale effect” in all of my builds to varying degrees.

The next coat was untinted Tamiya dark

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Karl applied an extra-dark brown as a primer and pre-shading base coat.

A dark yellow top coat lets the pre-shade show through at the edges.

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Next comes post-shading with touched-up, re-darkened edges and a lightened top coat to emphasize panels.

Karl pulled a wash of Van Dyke brown artist’s oils down the hull sides to replicate rain streaking. He mixed silver and black enamels for a dark metallic gray to model chipped paint.

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In what Karl calls “color mapping,” he paints lightened, irregular splotches, then an even lighter shade within those for varied shades that break up a monochromatic finish.

The effects of color mapping are beginning to take hold on this slab-sided example, where it helps to add visual variety to a surface that otherwise would be plain panzer yellow.

Weathering and other effects I started with a wash of Van Dyke brown artist’s oil, streaking it down the sides, 13.

Edges are accented with a light chipping of metallic gray, a mixture of black and silver enamels. Unlike dry-brushing, I load the brush with color, dab some of it off, and drop the brush against edges and projections. This produces a harder edge than dry-brushing does without spreading paint across flatter areas — always a danger if it’s too wet, thin, or there’s too much paint.

Next, I added “color mapping,” 14, painting small, irregular patches of light50

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ened colors on top of the same hue. This mimics weathering effects such as staining and fading and adds further variety to the base color. I used Mig Thinner for Washes, white artist’s oil, 502 Abteilung light mud oils, and two paintbrushes. I add a small patch of paint to the side, and, using the clean second brush, dab at the edges to blend it in. Use this technique freely; don’t overthink it, just add little blotches until it looks like you’ve fractured the monotone.

It’s almost like “digital camo,” but with the same, lightened base color. I added more pure white as I moved to the top of the

hull, but left the Zimmerit areas alone, 15.

Again, these techniques are scale effects.

Screen play and scratches The lack of engine screens bothered me.

Fortunately, my 1/72 scale spares box had some super-fine netting in the shape of a sunglass lens — I can’t remember what it was or where it came from, but I must have been thinking, “Oh, that would make perfect engine screens for a 1/72 build!” I measured and cut the screens’ shapes out of paper, then used the patterns to cut them from the netting. I sank them in a small

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Engine screening from Karl’s spares lent dimension to the engine deck.

A raw umber wash, oily black for fluid leaks, and bits of bright silver for worn track got the Sturmtiger tracks rolling.

A figure adds a scale reference, but Karl says it was a tough painting challenge. Camouflage on a 1/72 scale figure is almost microscopic.

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Karl spreads painted Celluclay over a gluecovered base. All the materials, including the paint, are water-based and combine readily.

Making tracks: Karl’s Sturmtiger makes an impression on his new display base.

While everything is wet, Karl pours on the rubble. Tamping it down with an emery board leaves more on the base, less on the fingers.

pool of dirty brown oil paint and attached them with white glue, 16. Perfect!

I added light scratches with white and raw umber artist’s oil paint, as well as some light metallic gray chipping applied with a bit of fine sponge. Delicate rust streaks and light, rusty spot-washes provide more variation. I painted tool handles tan over-coated with reddish brown artist’s oil, and added silver chips to dark gray steel sections.

I weathered the wheels sparingly with a raw umber oil wash, detailing with oily black for a few “bad seal” drips and using a very light dusting of Mig industrial earth pigments, 17. I picked out track horns and faces with silver enamel.

white glue into the Celluclay with a tiny amount of water. Watch the water; the more you add, the more shrinkage you’ll get and the longer the drying time. Knead the Celluclay until you have a thick paste.

I coated the base with white glue and immediately added the Celluclay mix, 19.

The Celluclay, paint, and glue are all waterbased, so they combine well. I positioned the model on the base, pressing it down to make tracks worthy of its “weight,” 20. I lifted the model only to spread some more glue onto the still-wet Celluclay, then put it

back and immediately covered the base with rubble, 21, using an emery board to press it in. I pushed a brick wall into place and set it all aside for a day to dry.

Meanwhile, I painted more details: a jerry can, a few broken chairs from Preiser, a gun to sling over my figure with a leadfoil strap, and, finally, a scratchbuilt fire extinguisher for the rear deck. After gluing a little bit more rubble around, I finally had another model for the display case — and it took up almost no room.

That’s one of the joys of 1/72 scale armor! FSM

Difficult figure, 10-minute base I finished a 1/72 scale figure from Mig with craft store paints, 18. This might have been the most difficult part of the project — a 1/72 scale figure is tiny.

I wanted a simple, vignette-size base and was surprised at how quickly it went. I have a bunch of pre-varnished plaques from hobby stores; I selected a 4" x 4" base and gathered ingredients: Celluclay; craft store acrylic paint (FolkArt dark gray, No. 246); premixed rubble (several aftermarket products); white craft glue; and a section of broken brick wall I believe came from an old Matchbox 1/76 scale diorama kit.

First, I mixed the paint and a dab of

More rubble on the front plate helps puts Karl’s Sturmtiger in its place.

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Questions & Answers A clinic for your modeling problems

By Aaron Skinner

The straight skinny on glues Q I haven’t modeled since I was discharged

from the military in 1968. My experience with the new (to me) kits is close to overwhelming. Could you offer me some guidance on types of glue needed? I went shopping and found everything changed from what I remember.

– Gerald Wilson Binghamton, N.Y. A There are a lot of types of glue out there, and many of them are useful for modeling.

Solvent cement: This is the standard model glue that melts the plastic along the seam to weld parts together. It comes in two forms. There’s the thicker gel-type stuff in a tube and there’s the liquid that is applied by brush. The latter is what I use almost exclusively. The best method is to hold the parts together and flow a little liquid cement into the join by touching a brush to the seam.

Super glue: Also referred to as cyanoacrylate or CA. This is instant-type glue. It’s useful for attaching small parts that may be damaged by solvent cement, and for attaching dissimilar materials like photoetched metal or resin to plastic. You can use accelerator (kicker) to speed it up. Super glue also can be used to fill small gaps.

Epoxy: These are stronger adhesives that are useful for particular jobs, like long joins that need to be reinforced or especially rough mating surfaces. They are messy, need to be mixed before use, and much more difficult to sand.

White glue or clear-part cement: Neutral to plastic, these affix clear parts like canopies or windshields without fogging them.

Paint before glue or vice versa Q I am working on an early Vietnam War

diorama featuring Revell’s 1/35 scale Bell H-13 scout making a forced landing due to mechanical problems. The H-13 has an open-frame assembly, so I’m doing a lot of work detailing the motor — fuel lines, hoses, pitch cable for tail rotor, etc. — so there are lots of parts stuffed tightly inside the framework. Usually I assemble, then paint.

But, with the framework of the tail section, painting all of the small pieces evenly with 52

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different colors would be a nightmare. On the other hand, if I paint everything separately I risk getting glue on my painted parts.

– Adam Mitten Auburn, Wash.

A When to paint first and when to glue first is definitely complicated when lots of components are visible after the model is together. Unfortunately, there’s no easy solution to the problem. I think your best approach — meaning what I’d do if it were my model — is to paint much of it as you go. You’ll need to scrape paint from the gluing surfaces before attaching the parts, and you will probably need to touch up paint after gluing. Careful gluing, using only as much as you need, should make touch-ups easier. If there is space under the framework, you may be able to insert paper masks between it and the internal components and airbrush the touch-ups.

The cure for yellowed decals Q How do I restore decals that have turned

yellow?

– Evan Weidman Enid, Okla.

A If the decals are still on the sheets (not on the model), place the sheet in a zip-lock bag and get as much air out of the bag as possible before closing it. Tape the bag to a window with the decals facing out. The sun should bleach the yellow out of the decals in a week or two. Don’t leave it up there too long or there’s a chance it will bleach the ink, too (especially red). Yellowed decals on a model are a little harder to fix.

Placing the model in direct sun for a little while should cure the problem, but it’s harder to control than the sheet. A clear coat may alter the effect of sunlight.

Removing decal residue Q What product did you use to remove

setting solution residue from decals and surrounding surfaces in “Applying decals step by step” in the July issue?

– Daniel Sauvageau Trois-Rivières, Québec, Canada A I used a cotton swab wet with a little clean water to remove the residue. Decal solutions are water-soluble, so it doesn’t take much to remove the stuff; light rubbing and blotting does the trick. FSM

Reader Tips Solutions and innovations

By Mark Hembree

Crafty rust treatments Sophisticated Finishes, from Triangle Crafts (www.patina. com), makes it easy to achieve realistic rust effects. The first bottle contains a thick, gray liquid with iron particles suspended in it. Hand-brush it on and let it dry. The second bottle contains a Sophisticated Finishes’ two-part treatment chemical which, when brushed makes great-looking rust. over the first layer, oxidizes it in a few minutes. The effect looks just like real rust because that’s what it is! The variations in color are hard to get with paint, and the final finish has enough “tooth” to accept dry pigments well (e.g. for sooty exhausts). The photo shows the result on Tamiya’s 1/35 scale T-34. Look for the Sophisticated Finishes “system” at craft stores.

– Fred Jones Kingston, Nova Scotia, Canada

Dental mixing slab

Modelers always need some type of mixing surface. I use a glass slab (6" x 3" x ¼") that dentists use for mixing cements. You can use it for mixing glues, paints, dabs of body putty, or as a cutting surface for masking tape — almost anything you can think of.

Clean off the slab with alcohol, Windex, thinner, or a straight razor.

– James Gourgues Altoona, Fla. Credit card tricks

I get lots of fake credit cards with offers that come in the mail. I use them in several ways. I can cut up the plastic ones to use as putty knives, scrapers, and to mix paint or two-part epoxy. I even use the raised letters as a test surface for dry-brushing. Throw them away when you’re through; they don’t cost anything.

– Keith Merrill Bountiful, Utah Bathe your brittle plastic

Troubled by brittle plastic? Having been in the plastic injection-molding industry for many years, I can tell you that most resins (that’s actually what plastics are) absorb water over time. If you put the plastic, sprue included, into a plastic bag along with a bit of water in the bottom of the bag (the amount is not terribly important — you

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can experiment), in a couple of days it will absorb a bit of the water and usually will become less brittle.

Learn how to use filters — those thin layers of tint that lend depth and variety to almost any finish.

Apply, test, and troubleshoot — we’ll show you how.

– Paul Nadeau Braintree, Vt.

ItAlIAn dAzzle!

Drilling depth gauge

Need to drill only to a certain depth in wood or other material? Wrap electrical tape around the bit two or three times, beginning at a distance from the bit’s tip equal to the depth you want to drill. You will be able to see and feel exactly where to stop. Don’t use too much pressure, though, or the tape will slide upward and the bit will go in deeper than you want.

– Michael Banks Oxford, Ohio Modeling from the microwave

Having replaced expired microwave ovens over the years, I have always saved the glass plates and rollers, thinking (as modelers do) that they might come in useful one day.

Racking my brain for some way to use these items before condemning them to the bin, it suddenly struck me: A turntable! Use a smaller plate underneath so the rollers ride inside the rim, then place the larger glass plate on top and you have a perfect modeling turntable.

– Tony Ward Bridlington, Yorkshire, England

The rakish heavy cruiser Gorizia gets a distinctive dazzle scheme that makes it a showstopper!

mASSIVe SAturn IB Apollo 7’s rocket in 1/48 scale: researched, scratchbuilt, finished — and nearly 5' tall!

BIg p-47 tHunderBoltS One pilot honors another with two 1/24 scale planes: One for a museum in England, the other for the guy who flew from there.

ON SALE Oct. 1!

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53

Workbench Reviews FSM evaluations of new kits on the market

Trumpeter’s Bismarck impressive in size and detail

T

he biggest battleship Germany ever built, Bismarck struck fear into the Allied powers of World War II even before it sailed for the Atlantic’s shipping lanes. Ironically, outdated British Swordfish torpedo bombers spelled the beginning of the end for the pride of the Kriegsmarine — but the debate of whether the Bismarck was ultimately sunk or scuttled continues to this day.

Trumpeter’s model is as much an enigma as the ship itself. This hybrid of high technology and 1960s box-scale kits induces a craving for aftermarket add-ons that would take it to the high quality the subject deserves. What’s in the massive 52" x 17" x 5" box creates an impressive model — and it could be much more.

Parts are nicely packed, with protection for the hull and deck, and a series of lettered boxes along with a decal sheet, paint guide, and a 48-page instruction booklet.

The decals provide various flags and crosses for the deck and aircraft.

The paint guide provides one option:

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Bismarck in its Baltic colors prior to its breakout attempt. There are plenty of references available if you want to do a variation.

Box A contains 12 gray plastic sprues, most of them wrapped separately to protect the more-delicate parts. Molding detail is good and clean with little flash. Wood and steel textures are nicely captured; the lockers have hinges and handles. There are some visible ejection marks, but nothing terrible. The aircraft hangars have enough detail inside to leave them open. Finally, at the bottom of the box is a nameplate that simply says Bismarck, oddly offset to the right (possibly to allow a coat of arms to be added, though none is included).

Box B contains plastic propellers and four clear sprues holding parts for the searchlights; several pieces of superstructure; four gun-turret tops; and 12 sheets of photoetched brass, four of which provide 245" of railing. The 328 photoetched-metal parts include various ladders, walkways, crane parts, secondary armament, cover plates for the aircraft catapult, and depthcharge racks.

Box C’s eight sprues hold the secondary

armament, with plastic barrels and no blast bags. Four of Box D’s six sprues are for the aircraft; their detail is superb, with panel lines and photoetched-metal cockpits.

Box E is a stand-alone kit of a 15" turret and four levels below deck to a magazine. You get a sheet of photoetched metal for the model, two turned-metal barrels, a clear sprue of the base and turret top, and two sprues of gray plastic parts to build the interior and barbette, along with a 4-page set of instructions. Paint instructions are not included.

Two plastic envelopes with 100mm and 600mm lengths of chain are provided for the anchors.

Box F has four sprues for the main guns; the solid plastic barrels have open muzzles. Large superstructure parts are also found in this box.

The hull is a two-piece affair plus propeller shafts and rudders. In my kit, parts D16 and D20 were badly warped and filler was required at the bow.

The main deck is a single part with a heavy filler tree in the open center where the superstructure is mounted. Do not remove this tree, as it lends support and prevents flexing as weight builds up on

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each end. The deck’s planking looks good and needs no cleanup.

I started this construction in February metal catwalks is vague. Check carefully 2013 and immediately found the plastic before mounting. Set Step 35 aside until would not accept paint or primer. Strange swirls on the main deck and hull were espe- Step 55 to avoid damaging the delicate assembly until it’s ready to be installed. In cially noticeable. Numerous cleanings and mineral-spirit scrubbings ensued until May, steps 36-40, the funnel, you’ll find phowhen I found Vallejo’s new acrylic-polyure- toetched-metal parts B17, B15, and B6 especially fragile. thane surface primer worked. Long-term Steps 45-53 create the aft superstrucperformance is unknown. ture, aircraft hangar, and main mast. Step Due to the paint difficulties, I skipped 52 has vague placements of the aft angle forward in the instructions to build subascrosstree, as if one is looking at it from semblies and make up time. above. I determined placement of the ladSteps 1, 2, and 3 handle the hull and der mount in Step 53 through research. internal bracing. Note: Test-fit the deck Steps 54-56 place the main structures on before gluing in the bracing; mine required the deck, while steps 57-63 create the secsanding. ondary armament, cranes, and main armaSteps 4-7 are straightforward for small ment. Step 57 requires careful opening of vents, capstans, training guns and depth the 105mm gun turret tops to charge racks; steps 8-16 deal with coMplex, allow freedom of motion for the the main deck level. I worked barrels and their photoetchedwith the deck unattached to the SupeRmetal gears. Step 59 requires just hull. The inner sprue tree was Sized, and six photoetched-metal useful for maneuvering the 49"D1-D2-D3 combinations, rather long deck without flexing it. diFFicult the eight indicated. Caution: Steps 17-23 assemble more — but not than Place the hook and gear assembly minor features. iMpoSSible onto Part K29 before adding the In Step 17, the notch in Part side cables. Step 64 places all the R8, the base for the 37mm twin armaments and cranes of the upper supergun, was too narrow and required special structure. In Step 65, I assembled the sanding to fit. In Step 19, searchlights have a D-shaped base mount on Part L40 which Arado floatplane with no trouble.

Trumpeter’s Bismarck is complex, superis not visible on the instructions. I realized sized, and difficult — but not impossible. It this on Step 40, and it required a fair amount of work to correct. The curve of the appears nearly correct for scale, just a bit narrow in the beam. Modelers may argue D should be forward for correct mounting. about certain features, such as the stern Step 24 indicates undefined options for being a bit too sharp, but overall it’s fine. the end of each catapult rail. If you wish to However, the main-turret base mount is have an Arado on the cat, you need to keep a step back to the 1960s, allowing just 10 the hatches open and V-stands mounted. degrees of elevation. The lack of a rigging Steps 25-34 have you build the forward diagram and railing placement is puzzling. superstructure. Take care with the maneuYou’ll have to find sharp reference photos. I vering bridge in Step 26 — it is fragile. In had just 33⁄4" left of the kit’s 245" of phoStep 31, placement of the photoetched-

toetched-metal railing, so be conservative.

The flags provided are oversize and would measure 12' x 18' at full size; they can only be mounted on the aft flagstaff.

I used stretched sprue for the rigging. It is not complete, per drawings online, but is indicative of the ship. Right now it lacks antenna spacers, but I plan to add them.

I spent 431 hours working on the Bismarck, but at least 50 were spent resolving the initial mold-release/paint problem.

Intermediate modelers may have some trouble with the build, but there is nothing too complicated as long as you’re patient and have some experience mounting fragile photoetched metal. In spite of the difficulties, you will find this kit is a special experience and a fine model — all 491⁄2" of it.

– Mark Karolus

Kit: No. 03702 Scale: 1/200 Manufacturer: Trumpeter,

www.trumpeter-china.com, from Squadron Products, 877-414-0434, www.squadron.com Price: $399.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 2,028 parts (328 photoetched metal), decals Pros: Wedding-cake build of the superstructure Cons: Paint impeded by moldrelease agent; rail placement instructions lacked follow-through; undefined options; poor turret design with 10 degrees maximum elevation of main gun

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Workbench Reviews

Airfix Hawker Typhoon IB

E

ven as Hawker’s Hurricane was becoming operational in the Royal Air Force, the company was busy working on a successor to its fighter. The Typhoon, designed around the massive Napier Sabre IIA engine, was to be a high-altitude fighter. Though deficient in that role, it became a very effective low-altitude, ground-attack aircraft.

Although the Hawker Typhoon IB may never win any contests for good looks, the newly tooled Airfix kit is a real beauty.

Kit: No. A02041 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: Airfix, 44-1428-701191,

www.airfix.com, available from Hornby America, 253-922-7203, www.airfix-usa.com Price: $9.49 Comments: Injection-molded, 74 parts, decals Pros: Surface, cockpit, and wheelwell detail; optional opened gun bays; excellent decals Cons: Ejector-pin marks in places that are difficult to fill and sand

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FineScale Modeler

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Typical for Airfix these days, it’s molded in soft, blue-gray plastic with excellent detail throughout. Panel lines are recessed and a little heavy, but better than some earlier Airfix kits; I found them totally acceptable.

An interesting feature is the option to show the gun bays opened.

The instructions are straightforward and include a 2-page color painting and decal guide for two aircraft. Only Humbrol colors are listed.

Initial construction centers on Part B30, which forms both wheel wells, the roof of the radiator housing, and the cockpit floor.

That whole assembly slides into the right half of the fuselage; then the other fuselage half is attached. Next, the lower wing slips in under it. Sounds complicated, but it works. I did have to sand the upper edges of the wheel-well housing to produce a good fit for the upper and lower wings.

From here on, construction was troublefree. I used a bit of filler here and there and had to do some scraping around the port wing root for a smooth fit. In Step 12, there’s an optional piece attached behind the radiator; it’s a tropical air filter, a factory modification to late-model Typhoons operating from dusty airfields supporting the ground offensive in Europe.

If you want to display the gun bays open, you must remove the access doors from the top of the wings. A sharp hobby

knife made quick work of this, and the guns and separate “opened” doors fit nicely into the bays. Use care when removing landing gear parts from the sprue, as they are toscale and delicate. I broke one strut’s retraction arm, but the positive fit of the strut into the wing offset this faux pas.

I thought Airfix erred by not having landing lights in the wings. However, I learned some aircraft, particularly those designed to fire rockets, had the lights faired over with sheet metal to protect them.

As a final bit of construction, I had to drill holes in the fuselage for the extended step below the wing and a whip aerial behind the cockpit. The latter is not provided in the kit; I used a paintbrush bristle.

The kit offers two sets of markings, both in standard late-war RAF camouflage, and two optional weapon loads. I chose the more-colorful No. 247 Squadron with the red and yellow spinner. I was impressed with the decals — they were opaque, easily moved into position, and settled into recessed detail. This was especially true for the invasion stripes and yellow ID leading edges on the wings.

I’ve built several of Airfix’s new releases, and I feel this Typhoon is one of the best. I enjoyed a relaxing 16-hour build and would highly recommend it to any modeler.

– Phil Pignataro

Dragon Type 95 “Ha-Go”

I

f, as Sherman said, war is hell, there had Building the upper hull, you also have a to be a special place in it for the Japanese choice between photoetched metal and Type 95 light tank. Inside its tiny, handplastic for the rear angled deck. All the operated turret, the commander was hatches can be positioned open or closed. responsible for loading, aiming, and firing However, no engine or drive train is prothe main gun. The simple suspension was vided, so you might want to keep those such a rough ride that the three-man crew hatches closed. was unable to operate at speed in rough terAfter assembly, small gaps between rain. So, the interior was padded with plates appeared. But they are cleaned up asbestos, which also helped protect the easily enough. The front hull plate and crew from sun-heated armor plates. fenders combine as one unit. Again, you Dragon continues its new can leave the transmission Japanese World War II series hatches open or close them. hatches with the release of the Type 95.

Same goes for the driver’s hatch, can be The kit features posable hatches, which also features vision blocks positioned in clear plastic. However, there is turret interior, DS tracks, photoetched-metal optional parts, no interior for the crew. I used a open or and markings for four vehicles. chopstick to bend the phoclosed The first thing to do is decide toetched-metal muffler guard on the paint scheme and markand painted it before attaching it. ings. Road wheels and suspension arms are I found the turret an interesting build. painted along with the lower hull for each The commander’s hatch can be positioned vehicle’s different set of markings. I painted open or closed, and there is a photoetchedthe wheels and suspension arms, then set metal lip to replace the plastic Part C20. them aside to build the lower hull.

The main armament is well-detailed, as When building the rear axles, parts B11 is the machine gun. What is missing is the and B12 slide back and forth as part of the ammo ready rack on the right side of the track tensioner operation; I glued it as far turret. I left off the flag holder (Part F1) aft as I could to take up as much of the from the left side of the turret. slack in the vinyl tracks as possible. You I painted my model with Tamiya yellow, have a choice of the plastic part A28 or the red brown, khaki, and JA green using Silly photoetched-metal part MA19. The rest of Putty for masking, and weathered the the suspension is then added. model with Tamiya pastels overall. The

decals went down over a coat of Pledge Future floor polish without any silvering.

For the Kwantung Army vehicle, you have a choice of two numbers for the vehicle.

It looks as if Dragon will release a late version of this model as well, so the series continues. While the build is relatively easy, the complicated camo scheme will take some extra effort. Still, I had a fun 20 hours building this little tank.

– Tom Foti

Kit: No. 6767 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Dragon,

www.dragon-models.com, from Dragon Models USA, 626-968-0322, www.dragonmodelsusa.com Price: $49.95 Comments: Injectionmolded, 238 parts (37 photoetched metal), decals Pros: Turret interior well detailed; posable hatches Cons: Loosefitting tracks; other minor fit issues

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Workbench Reviews

Azur Fromm Dassault Mystère IVA

T

he French aircraft industry produced several effective jet fighters after World War II. The Mystère IVA was the most advanced in the initial series of swept-winged improvements on Dassault’s original jet, the Ouragon. The high-performance Mystère was roughly equivalent to the late-model F-86 and the MiG-17. In the mid-1950s, Israel purchased a batch to counter MiG-15s flying with neighboring air forces.

Azur released three kits of the Mystère

Kit: No. FR021 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: Azur Frrom,

www.frrom.com, available from Squadron Mail Order, 877-414-0434, www.squadron.com Price: $29 Comments: Injection-molded, 82 parts (28 photoetched metal, 9 resin, acetate film for the instrument panel), decals Pros: Finely scribed surface detail; detailed resin pieces (including ejection seat) Cons: Fit problems; lack of positive placement of main gear; no external stores

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FineScale Modeler

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IVA — the same kit in French, Indian, and Israeli markings (the latter reviewed here).

The model features excellent surface detail, a photoetched-metal fret (mostly for the cockpit), resin pieces that include a nice ejection seat, an acetate instrument panel, and a decal sheet with markings for three differently camouflaged Israeli aircraft. The instruction booklet takes you through eight construction steps and has a guide for painting and decaling.

Typical of a short-run kit, many parts must be trimmed for proper fit. Install the intake trunks, cockpit, wheel well, and exhaust before closing the fuselage halves.

Pay close attention to the alignment of the intake trunks; they should be vertical in the fuselage halves so the separate splitter (Part A15) is vertical also. Disregard their locating holes inside the fuselage halves — they will lead you astray. Don’t forget to add ballast behind the cockpit bulkhead to keep the tricycle landing gear grounded.

With the wings in place, the instructions focus on the landing gear and doors.

The attachment point for the main gear to the wings is just a dimple in the top of the wheel well. I reinforced this area with a small brass pin inserted into holes drilled in the top of the strut and the roof of the wheel well.

Fit of the main gear doors (parts B15 and B16) is problematic; they’re larger than the wheel well and do not close fully because the landing gear’s retraction arms get in the way. So, I decided to display

them open. Since the main gear doors were down, I opened the forward nose gear door as well.

I also did some fiddling with the windscreen and canopy. The aft portion of the canopy doesn’t match the shape of the fuselage cutout. Instead of a lot of sanding on the clear part, I opened the canopy and sanded the area behind the cockpit until the canopy seated properly.

Azur didn’t provide a pitot tube for the right wing, so I fashioned one from a straight pin.

I painted my model with various Alclad II metallic paints for the natural metal finish. The decals worked really well: thin and opaque, they settled nicely into the surface detail, even over compound curves. The red stripe along the fuselage, though, dried with an orange tint rather than a deep red. Also, I was suspicious of the black and yellow “Suez” recognition stripes. However, research indicated some aircraft may have had this variation rather than the typical yellow and black stripes.

This kit is not a quick build, and it will test all your modeling skills to achieve a good replica. None of the fiddling I did was difficult — there was just a lot of it. I enjoyed the challenge and the 25 hours I spent on the kit. Most importantly, I like the way my Mystère IVA turned out. I would recommend Azur’s kit for the intermediate modeler or beginners wishing to step up their game.

– Phil Pignataro

Roden Douglas C-47 Skytrain

R

oden has made fans of 1/144 scale happy by releasing a kit of one of the classic aircraft of all time — the Douglas C-47. Markings are included for one invasion-striped, post-D-Day aircraft. While there are only 39 parts, all the necessary details are there, including competently designed engines with cylinder detail, main wheels with treads, the Gooney Bird’s trademark sturdy landing gear, and petite propellers.

The kit nicely captures the classic look of the military aircraft, and it even has wonderfully thin trailing edges on all flying surfaces. Still, there are a few minor shape issues that actually hint at a civilian version in the future. They all involve minor details related to the shape of the tail. inboard wing flaps, some scribing to comThe fuselage is molded with the typical civilian streamlined tail cone in place, along plete the outboard flaps between the inner flaps and ailerons, and a scribed line across with corresponding fairings on the elevathe center section completed the correction tors. All are easily corrected by trimming with a sharp knife; the fairing has the trun- — about 20 minutes of extra work.

After the major airframe components cated shape molded into the panel lines were assembled, I test-fitted the canopy that can serve as a cutting guide. The kit and found the one major problem with this also includes a mysterious unmentioned kit: the canopy is about .030" too narrow at “door-shaped” part that I believe represents the rear. I could have applied filler to fair it the baggage door located aft of the main in, but I decided to try widening it instead. door in the fuselage of civilian airliners, as I gently cut the canopy down the center evidenced by flash on the inside of the left from the rear surface to the forward edge fuselage half. By adding an airliner door of the escape hatch with a razor insert and different markings, saw. I inserted a splice of .030" Roden could quickly make use of I was so strip plastic, then trimmed, this tool for a host of airliner ver- pleased sanded, and added a spot of filler sions. wIth how to blend everything together. This I have to admit, I was so worked like a charm and only pleased with how this kit looked thIs kIt added a few extra minutes to the in the box that I rushed to get the looked build. fuselage together quickly — so With a little bit of knife work, quickly that I forgot to glue the some sanding, and just a touch of filler, window inserts in place first. I was able to Roden’s C-47 builds up very easily and confirm that they fit well, but thanks to my looks great assembled. I painted my plane enthusiasm I had to use Micro Kristal using Tamiya paints.

Klear for the cabin windows after painting.

I was in a hurry to gild my Gooney (Is The fit of all parts was quite good, with there a theme developing here?) and misno filler needed. Even the wing roots fit takenly masked invasion stripes on both well, with just a bit of sanding to address upper and lower surfaces instead of just for the joint. I did find that removing the pins the undersides as shown in the instructions. on the inner wing root produced a better Oh well. Hopefully my airframe flew durfit. The landing lights required a bit of ing D-Day as well. Since I goofed, I added trimming to fit, too. Roden did not cora “chalk” number in white colored pencil to rectly portray the flaps on the underside of simulate a paratroop dropper from D-Day. the wing, and it missed the center section I applied Roden’s decals, and, while they flap completely. A bit of filler on the

look all right, they did not respond to setting solutions. Maybe it’s better that Roden did not include the stripes.

I added the small details after all the painting was complete. The astrodome looks too tall to me, but other than that the model looks every inch the Gooney.

I’m happy with it. It took just under 14 hours and was a pleasurable build. I hope Roden releases a civilian version soon, although I think I will invest in some aftermarket decals.

– Chuck Davis

Kit: No. 308 Scale: 1/144 Manufacturer: Roden, www.roden.eu,

from Squadron Mail Order, 877414-0434, www.squadron.com Price: $24.99 Comments: Injectionmolded, 39 parts, decals Pros: Good detail and finesse for the scale; great fit; good-looking landing gear and engines Cons: Engraved detail falls short; astrodome looks too tall; poor-fitting canopy; balky decals slightly out of register

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59

Workbench Reviews

Zvezda Tiger I Ausf E

Z

vezda has expanded its range of military vehicles with a brand-new kit of the Tiger I Ausf E (early production).

Early-production Tigers are distinguished by the “dustbin” commander’s cupola, s-mine launchers on the hull, headlights

Kit: No. 3646 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Zvezda,

www.zvezda.org.ru, from Dragon Models USA, 626-968-0322, www.dragonmodelsusa.com Price: $46.95 Comments: Injectionmolded, 341 parts (4 vinyl), decals Pros: Detailed turret interior; clear parts provided for headlights, periscopes, and vision blocks; molded Feifel hoses Cons: Vinyl tracks difficult to join; gun breech molded hollow

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mounted on the hull top, and Feifel air I took time to drill out the s-mine cleaners on the rear. Zvezda even caught launchers and the inlets for the air cleaners, the asymmetrical shape of the turret, often which really improved the look of the missed by other companies. model. A little Mr. Surfacer 500 helped Molded in tan plastic, the parts feature eliminate seams atop the air cleaners. good detail. The turret has all of the basic Working on the turret next, I added all interior items above the hull line, the details to the side walls and do it so no worries about leaving your painted the interior an ivory color hatches open. The hull also has ZveZda’s (not white, as the instructions sugrear fuel tanks and cooling fans, gest). Then I picked out details although it is difficult to see them way and with various Vallejo paints and through the engine grates. The it will go applied a wash of burnt umber tracks are molded in very soft, artist’s oils. easier. flexible vinyl in two pieces per Zvezda molded the breech for side. Markings for two vehicles of the main gun hollow. While this unnamed units are provided on a small would not be noticeable through the decal sheet. No photoetched metal or fighatches, I planned on leaving my turret roof ures are included. loose so the interior could be displayed; I The instructions start with the assembly filled the breech with epoxy putty, molding of the turret, but I skipped ahead and it to the correct shape. The two-piece main started with the hull. The hull top fit poorly gun barrel was straight and true, and only a at first, but, once I installed the rear plate small amount of Mr. Surfacer was needed and bulkhead and clamped them, the top fit to make the seams disappear. perfectly. Later, I realized that Zvezda has Deciding on the overall panzer yellow you adding the turret to the hull top before vehicle of s.Pz Abt 503, I painted my Tiger you glue the top in place; fortunately, the with Vallejo German yellow ochre and turret is a snug fit in its opening. I added post-shaded it with a lightened version of most of the details to the hull, leaving off the base color. The decals, applied over a the running gear, tools, and exhaust covers coat of Tamiya clear gloss, responded well until the main painting was done. to a light application of Micro Sol. The

AZ Model Boeing P-26 Peashooter

F decals will wrinkle a bit, but don’t touch them — they will lie down perfectly once they dry. I applied some Tamiya earth and pigments to the lower chassis, followed by a wash of burnt umber oils. I even made my first attempt at “chipping” (more practice is needed).

Instructions are to melt four pins together to join the tracks. This has never really worked for me, so I added some Loctite vinyl adhesive from an air mattress repair kit to strengthen the joints (neither regular model cement nor super glue worked). Installing the tracks was a bit difficult, mainly because I didn’t follow the instructions; do it Zvezda’s way and it will go easier. To get sag in the top run of tracks, I put small dabs of pressure-sensitive adhesive on the tops of the road wheels and pressed the tracks into place once it was dry.

I added a few dabs of super glue for extra security.

I spent about 22 hours on my Tiger I. The finished model perfectly matches the dimensions in the Standard Catalog of German Military Vehicles, by David Doyle (Krause, ISBN 978-0-87349-783-1).

Do we really need another Tiger I? Well, I think every manufacturer needs at least one in its catalog, and Zvezda’s should appeal to modelers who want a nice model without all the high-tech goodies found in many modern kits. What you get in the box is an easy-to-assemble, good-looking early Tiger tank.

– John Plzak

ollowing its success with the P-12 army and F4B navy biplane fighters, Boeing developed the classic P-26 monoplane pursuit plane. For 1/72 scale model builders, this new kit from the Czech Republic’s AZ Model provides an alternative to the old Revell and limited-run Pavla P-26s.

AZ Model’s kit is molded in soft, gray styrene except for a resin engine and the windscreen printed on thin clear sheet.

Decals provide markings for three Peashooters: one olive drab, one blue, and one in experimental camouflage.

As with many Czech kits, the parts show very nice exterior panel detail and adequate cockpit interior. The small parts molded on the sprues required a lot of cleanup along mold-parting lines and sprue-attachment stubs. Interestingly, the entire wing is one piece; no chance of assembling the wing with the wrong dihedral! A cutout in the top of the wing holds a place for the fuselage. I recommend careful cleanup of the fuselage halves and repeated dry-fitting of the fuselage to the wing to get good matches.

The instructions are a bit confusing as to the shapes and locations of many of the small parts. Tiny, individual plastic exhaust stacks have to be super glued to the resin engine cylinders and spaced properly to avoid the pair of even tinier “peashooter” gun barrels that project between the cylinders. Not shown in the instructions, the exhaust pipes from the cylinders at the 9and 3-o’clock positions were routed back into ducts in the fuselage to heat the carburetors. The instructions do suggest that you supply “plastic rod” to make the outer ends of these two pipes, but they don’t show the proper locations.

Perhaps the most difficult aspect of the project was the rigging. The instructions feature an attempt at a rigging diagram, but they don’t show the doubled wires between the landing-gear spats or where they lead. I drilled holes through the fuselage, wings,

and spats, then threaded monofilament and anchored each line with super glue. In this scale, it would be difficult to mold or create the fairings that covered the wire anchors on the spats. I studied photos in two references — P-26 Mini In-Action, by Larry Davis (Squadron/Signal, ISBN 978-089747-322-4), and Boeing P-26 Variants, by Peter Bowers (Aerofax Minigraph 8, ISBN 978-0-942548-13-6), to figure out the details.

I chose the blue-finished Peashooter, painting it with Testors Model Master enamels. The decals are well printed, although the red and blue are a bit pale. I cut gently curved arcs from gold solid-color trim film for the fuselage stripes (not provided on the kit’s decal sheet.

After 27 hours, my little P-26 looks the part. And I do mean little – with a fuselage less than 4" long, and a wingspan of less than 5", this Peashooter is a Lilliputian portrayal of pursuit pulchritude!

– Paul Boyer

Kit: No. AZL 7219 Scale: 1/72 Manufacturer: AZ Model,

www.azmodel.cz, from UMM-USA, 847537-0867, www.umm-usa Price: $20.41 Comments: Injection-molded, 46 parts (1 resin, 1 clear film), decals Pros: Good exterior details; good cockpit detail; early and late tail-wheel types provided Cons: Small parts needed cleanup; imprecise fit; vague instructions

October 2013

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61

Workbench Reviews

HobbyBoss Northrop P-61B Black Widow

T Kit: No. 83209 Scale: 1/32 Manufacturer: HobbyBoss,

www.hobbyboss.com, from Squadron Mail Order, 877-414-0434, www.squadron.com Price: $199.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 714 parts (40 photoetched metal, 19 vinyl, 7 white metal), decals Pros: Clean, flash-free molding; metal landing gear; nose weights Cons: Wrong nose (closer to an A than a B); no ignition wires or exhausts on the engines; incorrect spoileron assembly; tail number for this plane should be 39408; landing-gear doors are incorrect for a B model

62

FineScale Modeler

October 2013

he first 1/32 scale P-61 Black Widow in injection-molded plastic comes to us from HobbyBoss — and it is a massive undertaking! Nearly 19" long, with a wingspan of 25", it is huge.

More than 700 parts are crammed into the big box. Two frets of photoetched metal spice up the detail; a vinyl fret is included, as are nose weights to keep the tricycle landing gear grounded. White-metal landing gear is a good idea for this hefty replica.

Detail is clean and free of flash throughout, and the clear parts are pristine. The photoetched metal is a little thick, making some smaller parts difficult to bend.

The 24-page instruction booklet is busy but easy to follow. It includes a parts map and a separate decal and paint guide. Forty steps complete the Black Widow, but a couple of steps can be skipped (more on that shortly).

The first 12 steps cover the cockpit and radio operator’s station. Detail here is terrific. I chose not to use the decals for the instrument details; they looked pretty poor.

Instead, I dry-brushed the molded detail.

Forming the photoetched metal in Step 8 is difficult; annealing the metal helps.

Though plastic is an option, I highly recommend the white-metal landing gear; most of the model’s weight will be right over the nose wheel. The detail on the guns is very nice; you can show them off or hide them by closing the gun-bay doors.

Step 18 (radar assembly) can be skipped if you are keeping the nose on the model.

Speaking of the nose, you can leave it off if you want to display the full radar assembly provided in the kit. But if you attach it, you’ll see that it’s a bit short — more like the A variant than the B. I added a little extra weight to the nose just to make sure the plane wasn’t a tail-sitter. In Step 20, I saved Part X12 (the glass around the radar operator at the end of the gondola) to avoid getting paint on it.

Most of Step 21 can be skipped; none of the detail will be seen. I ran the gun barrels through Part U2, glued that assembly to Part WE, then glued that to the fuselage.

I’m not sure why the rest of this assembly was included.

Pre-cut masking would be nice for all that glass and canopy framing, but none is provided. Fortunately, just after I received the kit I was able to purchase a masking set from Eduard — what a relief ! Clear parts on either side of the radar operator (Y1 and X3) did not fit well.

On the wings, HobbyBoss got the spoilerons completely wrong — and I am not sure how to fix them. They should move up or down with the ailerons, but you have to have both of them in the up position (which would not happen on the real aircraft). Correcting this would mean reworking the wing.

The wing-to-tail fit was spectacular, and

the wing-to-fuselage fit was nice as well.

That said, the stub that goes into the fuselage is short, and, with the weight of the wing, I can see one easily breaking off the fuselage. I recommend reinforcing this joint.

I found the photoetched-metal intake slats impossible to assemble; much easier to use styrene strips instead.

The engine detail looks good, but the exhausts are not routed correctly. Also, there are no ignition wires. Motor mounts are included, though. All this detail can be shown if you leave the cowls off.

I painted my P-61 with Floquil weathered black, then clear-coated it for decals.

They went on with no problem. But if you choose to build Lady in the Dark, the tail number should be 39408. An aftermarket set may come along to correct this.

Additionally, the black of the plane bleeds through the white on the stars and bars; painting white underneath or doubling up with an extra set of decals would help.

My model took 85 hours to complete, about what I expected when I opened the box. With the parts count so high and the build so challenging, I would not recommend this kit for beginners. But, even with its errors, this Black Widow still has plenty of bite!

– Chris Oglesby

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Coming EvEnts AL, HuntsviLLe: Huntsville Plastic Modelers’ Society 37th Annual Model Show. Jaycees Community Building, 2180 Airport Road. October 5, 2013. 8:00am-4:00pm. Free admission. Model Registration: $10 1st model, $2 ea additional, $2 IPMS discount, $1/model for 16 and under. Vendor tables $25. Vendor Info: Phil Cassibry, 256-656-9624, vendors@hpmsonline.org. General info: http://www.hpmsonline.org iL, scHAumburg: The Military Miniature Society of Illinois holds its 39th Annual Chicago Show at the Hyatt Regency, 1800 E. Golf Road. Saturday, October 12, 2013, 9:00am-4:00pm. For more information contact Show Chairmen John Van Der Meulen (JVanDerMeulen1@aol.com 847-918-8456) or Pat Vess (pat@livezey.net 630-730-2492) or website www.mmsichicago.com iL, WHeAton: 62nd Illinois Plastic Kit & Toy Show. DuPage County Fairgrounds, 2015 W. Manchester Road. September 22, 2013, 9:00am-3:00pm. Adults $5.00, children under 12 years $2.00. 150 tables available. Past-Time Hobbies, Inc. 630-969-1847.

nj, fAirfieLd: JerseyFest Model Kit & Statue Fair. Crowne Plaza Fairfield Hotel. September 13-15, 2013. ILM Star Wars Chief Model Maker & Original Stan Winston Studios Predator Creator presenting, figure & vehicle models, supplies, collectibles, classes, demos, contests, exhibits, top vendors & artists. Over 14,000 sq. ft. of show space. www.jerseyfestfair.com ny, pougHkeepsie: HVHMG 2013, Celebrating 27 years, Elks Club Lodge, Overocker Rd. October 19, 2013. Sponsored by IPMS Mid-Hudson. Registration 9:00am-noon. More information at: www.HVHMG.com or contact John Gallagher at: 845-462-4740 or ggallagherjoh@optonline.net tn, murfreesboro: IPMS Middle Tennessee Modelers will host our annual model show and contest at the Rutherford County Agricultural Center, 315 John Rice Blvd. Saturday, November 16, 2013. Free admission and vendor room. Visit our web site www.ipmsmiddletennessee.com for more information. Contact Novus Henry 615-478-2305, nhenryjr@bellsouth.net or Walter Bowen 615-429-5191, bowen723@juno.com vA, roAnoke: 2013 IPMS Region 2 Convention, sponsored

by Roanoke Valley IPMS, Roanoke Civic Center. October 1819, 2013, 9:00am-9:00pm. Over 85 model categories, including special “Nose Art” themes, over 22,000 sq. ft. for vendors, demos, speakers, Raffle, Make-N-Take, and more. Contact Tim Ward at 540-977-6205 or e-mail twardf86@aol.com or visit www.rvipms.com for more details. cAnAdA, AjAx, ontArio: Ajax 33 Model Contest. J. Clarke Richardson Collegiate, 1355 Harwood Ave. N. Saturday, October 26, 2013 10:00am-4:00pm. Admission: $2.00, Model entry $2 to max $10 (no limit on models). Sponsored by IPMS Toronto, IPMS De Havilland & Peel Scale Modelers. Contact: Bernie Hengst: 705-878-1740 or berniehengst@xplornet.ca

For salE cAnopy mAsking And more!

WWW.ezmAsks.com List $3.00. Chris Loney, 75 Golf Club Rd., Smiths Falls, ON, Canada K7A 4S5. 613-283-5206. modeL kits cHeAp! www.thekitbroker.com

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neW kit prices Are crAzy! Why pay new prices on a re-issued older kit? Rare-Plane Detective stocks thousands of old, hard-to-find and collectible plastic kits from the last fifty years at SANE PRICES! Aurora! Revell! Tamiya! Hasegawa! Monogram!

And MANY MANY MORE! One year catalog subscription (6 issues) only $15. Specify full color e-mail version or printed B&W catalog. You always get more hobby for your money at Rare-Plane Detective, 2325 Western Avenue, Suite 6, Las Vegas, NV 89102, 702-564-2851, info@rare-planedetective.com

WantEd A big buyer of AircrAft, Armor, Sci-Fi, Resin, Hybrid or Plastic kits. We buy collections whether they are small or large- Worldwide as well. Call Don Black toll free 1-866-462-7277.

Don Black, 119 Bernhurst Road, New Bern, NC 28560. E-mail don@donblack.com AircrAft, Armor, sci-fi, figures, Auto, etc.

Buying kit collections, large or small, worldwide. Top prices paid.

Call Jim Banko 610-814-2784 or mail list to 122 Independence Ct., Bethlehem, PA 18020, fax 610-439-4141. E-mail: cth1@prodigy.net buiLt pLAstic modeLs WAnted. I buy built kits. mike@peterson-picture.com Cell: 773-387-1400 buying unbuiLt kit coLLections! 200 kits or 2,000!

Especially looking for 50s & 60s kits (Aurora, Revell, Monogram, Lindberg, etc.), Ships, Space, Sci-Fi & Figures, decals and aftermarket items and more! We spent over $50,000 on collections last year! Pickup often available. Send list: Jeff Garrity, 2325 Western Avenue, Suite 6, Las Vegas, NV 89102 or collections@rare-planedetective.com If collection is too large to easily list call 702-564-2851. cAsH pAid for pLAstic modeL coLLections.

Call Tracie in Michigan 248-814-8359. Fax:248-814-0385 E-mail:flightlinehobby@yahoo.com. i buy pLAstic modeL kits in Canada and U.S.A. Call Philip 702-272-3126 or e-mail chu_philip@hotmail.com Las Vegas, NV. i WAnt to buy your unbuiLt modeL kits. Any size collection. Dean Sills, 214 E. Main, Flushing, MI 48433. 810-6592137. Fax: 810-659-0937. E-mail: deanshobbystop@comcast.net immediAte cAsH for AurorA model kits. Figures, monsters, superheroes, wildlife, prehistoric, sci-fi, TV/movie, cars, military, store displays, everything. Built-ups to sealed kits. Contact Pat at 650-759-0793 or hilo29@aol.com Thank you.

Looking for coLLections: Whether it is 1 or 101, Fire House Hobbies is looking for collections. Please send us your list to: engco45@yahoo.com or mail them to Fire House Hobbies, 11802 North Marlton Ave., Upper Marlboro, MD 20772. modeL cAr And truck kits. Unbuilt or built. Any size collection. Good prices paid. Please contact: Fred Sterns, 48 Standish, Buffalo, NY 14216. Phone: 716-838-6797. Fax: 716-8366057. E-mail: fsterns@aol.com you WiLL never find time to buiLd ALL tHose modeLs. Unbuilt kits, diecast aircraft, military books. Milam Models, 519 DiLorenzo Dr., Naperville, IL 60565, Phone: 630-9831407, jetpilotpaul@aol.com

poLicecArmodeLs.com -poLice cArs from 1/18 to 1/87, diecast, plastic model kits, decals and accessories. International orders welcome. Secure online ordering. Visit us at: www.policecarmodels.com

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1st And AbsoLuteLy tHe best museum-quALity modeLs. IPMS Nationals winner building aircraft and armor to your specification, including conversions and scratchbuilt. Call BC Models for quote and information at 913-385-9594 or visit www.bcmmodels.com

sHip And AircrAft modeLs. Built for display. For additional information contact, Ray Guinta, PO Box 74, Leonia, NJ 07605. www.rayguinta.com

finescALe modeLer AutHor and IPMS medalist will build your favorite aircraft, specializing in metal finishes. Contact John Adelmann at 563-556-7641 or jjadelmann@yahoo.com

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PropBlur _________________________ 64

Fantastic Plastic Models _____________ 64

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Roll Models_______________________ 52

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mn, minneApoLis: Nordic-Con Model Show and Contest with vendor room, raffle and special interest awards. NEW LOCATION: Northern Star Council Boy Scouts of America Base Camp, 201 Bloomington Rd., Ft. Snelling, MN 55111. Saturday, September 21, 2013. 9:00am-4:00pm. Contact Bob Maderich @ 612-423-2985 or robertmaderich69@hotmail.com or Erik Zabel @ zabelerik@hotmail.com or our Website www.aerohistorians.org nH, nAsHuA: IPMS Granite State presents Granitecon XXI. Nashua Elks Club, 120 Daniel Webster Hwy. Sunday, October 20, 2013. General admission $2.00. First 5 adult entries $5.00. Unlimited junior entries FREE. For additional details, contact Rodney Currier, 603-726-3876. Visit http://home.comcast.net/~vf84/

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Local Hobby Shop Directory Local Hobby Shop Directory listings are available for the next ten issues for $275 (payable in advance) or at $37 per issue (billed to established accounts for a minimum of ten insertions). Ads will be set in standard listing typography. All insertions must be consecutive and may be invoiced if you have credit established with us. No mention of mail order business permitted. For information call 1-888-558-1544, ext. 815. Closing dates listed in Classifieds section.

ARIZONA • Glendale

“The Best in Plastic Models”.

1000’s of plastic kits at discount prices.

Photo-etched and resin accessories.

Books, tools and paint.

We welcome special orders.

ANDY’S HOBBY HEADQUARTERS

15224 N. 59th Ave., Ste. 12

602-439-1456

ARIZONA • Tempe

Specializing in plastic models & accessories.

Large selection of plastics, after-market detail accessories, decals, paint, books & tools.

Full-line hobby shop. www.thehobbydepot.com

HOBBY DEPOT

216 W. Southern Ave.

480-968-1880

ARKANSAS • Jacksonville

Headquarters for scale hobbies. Models; N-HO-O-G trains; gaming; tools; paints, etc.

Discounts & special orders.

Open 10-6, closed Sundays and Wednesdays www.railandsprue.com

RAIL & SPRUE HOBBIES

1200 John Harden Dr.

501-982-6836

CALIFORNIA • Burbank

Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem Visit us in person or online www.houseofhobbies.com Secure online ordering

BURBANK’S HOUSE OF HOBBIES

911 S. Victory Blvd.

818-848-3674

CALIFORNIA • Canoga Park

Kits, plastic & wood, Slot cars & toys. Rockets, paint, glue and tools. Trains from Z to O. Wed-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-5, Tues 10-5, Sun 1-5, closed Mon & Big Holidays. www.scalemodelstuff.com

SCALE MODEL STUFF

7259 Canoga Avenue

818-716-7847

CALIFORNIA • Garden Grove

Rewards program for 10% back on purchases.

Plastic aircraft, armor, ships, cars, decals, books, paints, tools, miniatures war-games.

Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 10-midnight, Sun 11-7 www.brookhursthobbies.com

BROOKHURST HOBBIES

12188 Brookhurst St.

714-636-3580

CALIFORNIA • Hollister

Model planes, car, ships & figures. Model train scales: Z, N, HO, O & G. Paints, tools. R/C & parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, supplies, products. Clinics available. Tu-Sat 11 -6; Sun 12-4. www.debbiebartunek@mac.com

B.C.T. HOBBY & CRAFTS

201-C McCray St.

831-635-0537

CALIFORNIA • La Mirada

R HOBBIES

562-777-9492

CALIFORNIA • Orange

New Products, Old Kits & Great Service!

Everything you need to build plastic models Armor, Aircraft, Ships, Cars, SciFi and more.

M-F 10:30-6pm, Sat 10:30-5pm, Sun 12-5pm www.militaryhobbiesonline.com

MILITARY HOBBIES

830 E. Lincoln Ave.

714-637-1211

CALIFORNIA • San Mateo

TALBOT’S HOBBIES

650-342-0126

COLORADO • Aurora

Large inventory of models from the world over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and supplies. Easy access from D.I.A. http://www.colpar.com

COLPAR HOBBIES

1915 S. Havana St.

800-876-0414

CONNECTICUT • Cos Cob

ANN’S HOBBY CENTER

203-869-0969

CONNECTICUT • East Windsor

Old & rare kits, largest selection in military kits, rockets, trains, & cars. Exit 45 off I-91.

10 minutes from Bradley Air Museum. www.craftechobbies.com or Visit us on Facebook.

CRAFTEC HOBBIES

144 North Road

66

860-646-0610

CONNECTICUT • Milford

Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train sets. Open Tue-Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5. www.hqhobbiesonline.com

HQ HOBBIES

394 New Haven Ave., Unit 1

203-882-1979

GEORGIA • Blue Ridge

Huge selection of model kits & accessories.

Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Figures, Cars and more.

Visit: www.freetimehobbies.com for complete listing.

Monday to Friday 10-6, Saturday 10-2

FREE TIME HOBBIES

4167 East First St. (by KFC)

706-946-1120

GEORGIA • Clarkesville

Huge model selection: Cars, military, planes, ships, figures, etc. Full art supply store has all accessories including diorama.

Plus comics, toys and more!

Visit artfullbarn.com or Facebook.

THE ART-FULL BARN

107 LaPrade Street

706-754-1247

HAWAII • Kailua, Oahu

Wide selection of plastic model kits, paint, books, magazines and tools.

Located on the beautiful windward side, a scenic 20 minute drive from Honolulu.

Mon-Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-2

WELLER'S HOBBYCRAFT

767 Kailua Road

808-262-0211

MASSACHUSETTS • Malden (Boston) Largest store in area, easy access via I-93, Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available.

Info: hobbybunker.com

HOBBY BUNKER, INC.

33 Exchange St.

781-321-8855

MASSACHUSETTS • Marlboro

Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE! We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books.

Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr 'til 8.

Visit us @ www.sparetimeshop.com

THE SPARE TIME SHOP

Rt 20E Main, Post Rd. Plaza

508-481-5786

MASSACHUSETTS • Norton

6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-fi. Reference books & supplies.

Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to Rt. 123E, behind DunkinÕ Donuts. www. mymummy.com E: mummy@mymummy.com

HARRYÕS HOBBIES & COLLECTABLES

250 E. Main St., Rt 123

508-285-8080

MICHIGAN • Royal Oak (Metro Detroit)

New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures, Models and Figure Kits from Around the World. Our famous selection of hobby supplies includes scenics, paints, reference and more. www.michtoy.com

MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO.

1400 E. 11 Mile Rd.

248-586-1022

Let your imagination run wild!

Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders, diecast cars, dollhouse miniatures, model railroading Z to G and more...

TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES

210 East Front St.

231-947-1353

MICHIGAN • Ypsilanti-Metro Detroit

Your single stop model building shop.

Michigan’s largest selection of new and vintage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5.

Visit us on Facebook. www.modelcave.com

MODELCAVE

103 W Michigan Avenue

734-316-2281

HOBBYTOWN USA

636-394-0177

NEVADA • Las Vegas

HOBBYTOWN USA

702-889-9554

860-627-7811

FineScale Modeler

ELITE HOBBIES

603-749-0800

NEW JERSEY • Kenvil

October 2013

NEW YORK • Astoria L.I.C. Car, Plane, Military, Models, Trains, Paints, Tools, Diecast.

Art Supplies, Wood & Wood Models Open Wed., Thur., Fri., Sat. 11:00 to 6:30.

RUDY'S HOBBY & ART

35-16 30th Avenue

718-545-8280

NEW YORK • Deer Park

Military oriented hobby shop. Armour, naval & aircraft models. Aftermarket products, dioramas and diorama products, books, mags, tools, paints, war videos & more. Call for hrs. www.alsandmdseco.com

ALSANDÕS TOY SOLDIERS PLUS

848 Long Island Ave.

631-254-2650

NEW YORK • Middle Island

MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.

631-924-0583

NEW YORK • Upr Eastside GR Manhattan Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum.

Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits.

Open 7 days.

JAN'S HOBBY SHOP, INC.

1435 Lexington Ave.

212-987-4765

OHIO • Cleveland (Lakewood)

WINGS HOBBY SHOP

216-221-5383

OHIO • Columbus

Both complete stores. Great selection of Model Kits, accessories, detail parts, magazines, tools & paints. www.hobbylandstores.com

HOBBYLAND

Graceland Shopping Center Reynoldsburg

614-888-7500 614-866-5011

OKLAHOMA • Owasso

OklahomaÕs largest plastic kit, paint and aftermarket inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor, ships, trains and sci-fi. Special orders welcome! Mon - Fri 10-7, Sat 11-6, Sun 1-5.

Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com

TOP SHELF MODELS

119 S. Main St.

918-274-0433

OREGON • Beaverton

TAMMIES HOBBIES

503-644-4535

Armor, aircraft ships and car models.

Historical and fantasy games, miniatures, military history reference books and magazines. www.bthobbies.com Open 10am-6pm every day.

BRIDGETOWNE HOBBIES & GAMES,

3350 NE Sandy Blvd

503-234-1881

PENNSYLVANIA • Landisville (Lancaster) Large Selection New & Used Kits Military books, tools, paint, airbrushes Full line hobby shop open Tue - Thur 10-6, Fri 10-7, Sat 10-4 www.CoolTrains.com

COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES

106 W. Main Street

717-898-7119

East TennesseeÕs largest plastic model selection. 7,500 sq. ft. of hobbies & toys.

Located in KnoxvilleÕs premier shopping destination. Turkey Creek Area.

Open 7 days a week.

HOBBYTOWN USA

11364 Parkside Dr.

865-675-1975

Rutherford Co.Õs largest selection of hobby items. Carrying a wide variety of plastic & wood models, paints, tools & supplies.

Located just off I-24 on Medical Center Pkwy (exit 76). Open M-F 10-7; Sat 10-5.

HOBBYTOWN USA

536-J N.Thompson Ln.

615-890-6777

Plastic aircraft, armor, cars, figures & ships, model railroading supplies & rockets.

Take Osage exit I-40, South to 34th St. Right 1/2 mile to Tradewind Business Park, turn left to 3601. http://www.hobby-time.com

HOBBY TIME

3601 Airway Blvd.

KENVIL HOBBIES

973-584-1188

806-352-9660

Broad selection of foreign & domestic model kits: aircraft, armor, diecast, decals, autos, detail parts, trains, slot cars, books, tools, collectibles, old kits. We buy unbuilt models.

Special orders welcome. www.mmhobby.com

M & M HOBBY CENTER

6703 Chimney Rock

713-661-7137

TEXAS • Irving (Dallas Area)

Imported & Domestic Aviation Books & Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C, U/C airplanes.

Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7.

Sat 10:30-6. www.malhobby.com

M-A-L HOBBY SHOP

108 S. Lee Street

972-438-9233

Scale modeling from beginner to expert.

A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10-6pm.

DIBBLE'S HOBBIES

1029 Donaldson Ave.

210-735-7721

TEXAS • San Antonio

Plastic kits/references/paints/tools from around the world. Special orders welcome.

Discounts to IPMS military, firefighters, police, etc. Open Tues-Wed 12-7, Thur-Sat 10-7, Sun 1-5. www.hillcountryhobby.com

HILL COUNTRY HOBBY

9355 Bandera Rd., Ste. 109

210-681-2007

Minutes from Dulles Airport & New Dulles Air & Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center.

PLASTIC! PLASTIC! PLASTIC! Kits for aircraft - armor - ships - cars Daily 12-8; Sun 12-5. www.piperhobby.com

PIPER HOBBY

13892 Metrotech Dr.

703-803-3103

VIRGINIA • Newport News

Plastic model specialty shop.

New and old kits, foreign, domestic, books, paints and other accessories.

We also buy collections. www.dhcinc.com dhc@dhcinc.com

DENBIGH HOBBY CENTER, INC.

14351 Warwick Blvd.

757-874-5708

WASHINGTON • Seattle

Large selection of plastic car and plane kits, Wooden boat kits and accessories,, Scratch builders supplies - tools - paint, Military games www.garysgamesandhobbies.com

GARY'S GAMES AND HOBBIES

8539 Greenwood Ave. N.

206-789-8891

Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models.

Large selection of detail parts. Largest selection of plastic models in South Seattle! www.skywaymodel.com

SKYWAY MODEL SHOP

12615 Renton Ave. South

206-772-1211

WASHINGTON • Tacoma

Plastic, Wood, Diecast kits & collectibles Armor, Aircraft, Cars, Ships, Balsa Planes Huge selection Paints & Tools, OOP & Current issues. Open: Mon-Sat; closed Sundays www.ubhobbies.com

DISCOUNT MODELS

8216-C 27th St. W.

253-460-6781

CANADAÐAB • Calgary

Specializing in R/C models and accessories, helicopters, planes, cars, trucks, boats, plastic, die-cast & model rockets.

M T W F 9:30-6, Th 9:30-8 Sat. 9:30-5 www.modelland.com info@modelland.com

MODEL LAND LTD

3409A 26 Ave. SW

403-249-1661

CANADAÐON • Ottawa (Vanier) One of Canada's leading model shops.

Complete line of military & aircraft kits, decals, paints and accessories.

Free parking. On Parle Francais.

HOBBY HOUSE, LTD

80 Montreal Rd.

613-749-5245

CANADAÐON • Toronto Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products.

Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com

WHEELS AND WINGS

1880 Danforth Ave.

416-752-0071

CANADA–QC • Dorval

We take care of special orders.

Specializing in out of the ordinary kits, military, armour, figurines, planes, detail parts, decals, resin, photoetched conversions, books, mags. Many special discount prices.

HOBBY JUNCTION EXPRESS

1761 Cardinal

514-631-3504

SINGAPORE • Singapore

HO & N, Lionel trains.

Complete line of plastic kits, military and architecture supplies.

Open 11am-6pm, Sat. 10am-5pm

G & G MODEL SHOP

2522 Times Blvd.

281-443-7373

WASHINGTON • Seattle

Complete full line hobby shop.

Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB. Open Mon-Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.

12024 SW Canyon Rd.

LARRY’S HOBBIES

156-F FM 1960 East

VIRGINIA • Chantilly

Large selection of aviation and military books and magazines, general hobbies.

17112 Detroit Ave.

Scale model cars, armor, aircraft, diecast.

All kinds of plastic and wooden ships.

Mon-Thurs 10-6, Fri & Sat 10-7, Sun 12-5.

TEXAS • San Antonio

Excellent selection of lead miniatureshistorical and fantasy. Plastic models, wargames & modeling supplies.

Books and magazines.

134 Middle Country Rd.

TEXAS • Houston

TEXAS • Houston area (Bellaire)

TEXAS • Houston

Full service hobbies, a full line of HO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats, planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding supplies, plus details-details-details!

590 Rt. 46

856-435-7645

TEXAS • Amarillo

Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around the world. Scratch building & diorama supplies, reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors #334 90 Washington St.

AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS

706 N. White Horse Pike

TENNESSEE • Murfreesboro

While in Las Vegas, come see our wide selection of models and detail accessories.

Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas strip Hours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.

4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103

Huge foreign & domestic model selection all scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books, wargames, scenery, diorama supplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days

TENNESSEE • Knoxville

Areas largest selection of models and model supplies. All popular paints including Tamiya, Humbol, Floquil and Testors. Open 7 days a week. Also, large selection of military diecast.

15037 Manchester Rd.

NEW JERSEY • Magnolia (Camden)

OREGON • Portland

NEW HAMPSHIRE • Dover

Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic and wood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.

405 E. Putnam Avenue

TIME MACHINE HOBBY

71 Hilliard St.

MISSOURI • St. Louis

Your source for plastic models, die cast and all supplies needed to finish your latest model.

Mon-Sat 9:30-6, Sun 11-5. www.talbotstoyland.com 445 South ÒBÓ Street

Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks.

Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games!

Mon - Sat 10-8, Sun 10-6

MICHIGAN • Traverse City

Wide variety of plastic kits.

Old Nascar Kits - please call.

Mon - Sat 10-6. Closed Sunday.

14269 Imperial Hwy.

CONNECTICUT • Manchester

713-529-7752

Old kits & latest releases. Good selection of unusual model kits & accessories. We stock electric trains & slot cars. Open 7 days, 1pm-8pm. In the Katong Shopping Centre. www.hobbybounties.com

HOBBY BOUNTIES & MORGAN HOBBYCRAFT

865 Mountbatten Rd #02-91/92

65-6440-1890

New Tooling from Academy…

(13280) German Light Tank Pz.Kpfw. 35(t)

Czech It Out

Following their occupation of Czechoslovakia, the Germans appropriated 244 of these Czech made light tanks for service with Panzer Divisions.

MRC-Academy. A Passion for Precision.

The Germans Did

The following review by Dave Manter appeared on line in Cybermodeler.

Our thanks to Michael Benolkin, publisher www.cybermodeler.com.

Academy 1/35 Pz.Kpfw. 35(t) Kit First Look “This 100% new kit by Academy consists of 312 beautifully molded parts in grey styrene. There is no fash present and seam lines are minimal. Decals are provided for 2 vehicles. They are: 6th Panzer Division, France, 1940; 6th Panzer Division, Russia, 1941 The parts feature incredibly fne detailing and the molding is some of the best that I have ever seen. What really stand out for me are the rivet details and the amount of detail on the track links.

Construction begins with the lower hull and it is made from several fat panels.

Test ftting here shows just how well this kit is engineered! Fit is perfect! Next up is the suspension and track links. The bogie units are highly detailed. The track is provided as link and length and has the track sag molded into the top run.

Fitting of the upper hull and all of its details are next and the kit gives you the option of leaving the drivers hatch open or closed. The turret is up next and here again the commander’s hatch can be open or closed. 2 fgures are provided to place into the open hatches if you want to. They each have optional heads.

The extra jerry cans are provided for the Russian confict version.

This kit looks amazing in the box! The details are as good as they get and the molding is frst rate. The attachment points on the parts trees are very fne and will make clean up fast and easy. The track links are molded as well as I have ever seen and with the sag molded into the top run, these will be more than adequate. Overall, this kit will make Academy a major player in the armor world!”